REPORT EXPT 1:

FACIAL FOAM
SUBJECT NAME: COSMETICS LABORATORY

INSTRUCTOR: Dsc. LE TRAN HONG NGOC

Date of submit : 21/9/2020

Group members :
1. Hoàng Nguyên Minh Anh – BTBCIU16008
2. Quách Mỹ Duyên- BTBCIU16039
3. Trương Ngọc Hằng - BTBCIU16041
4. Nguyễn Hồng Anh Phương – BTBCIU16015
5. Nguyễn Tấn Phú- BTBCIU16057
I. MATERIALS:

The chemicals consist of Sodium Laurate Sulfate, PEG-7, Moist XS, Glycerin, Provitamin
B5, DMDM, NaCl, Citric acid, Xanthan gum, Allantoin, and Orange essential oil.

The equipment includes breakers, Pasteurize pipet, cylinder, magnetic stirring bars, magnetic
stirring machine.

II. METHODS:
Formular: This formular was chosen to perform since SLS and PEG-7 were cost-
efficiency. In addition, they take about 10 – 15 minutes to dissolve completely in
distilled water. Provitamin B5 was used instead of other moisturizers since it can
retain moisture levels, shield our skin from irritation that provide a softness and
elasticity for skin.
Table 1: Ingredients

Materials Amount
SLS 8 grams
Phase 1
PEG-7 8 grams
Moist XS 3 grams
Glycerin 8 grams
Phase 2 Allantoin 1 grams
Provitamin B5 0.5 grams
DMDM 0.5 grams
Xanthan gum 1.4 grams
Optional NaCl 0.8 grams
Orange essential oil 4 drops
Citric acid 25 drops

2 main components including of SLS and PEG7 in phase 1 dissolved completely with 25
mL distilled water by magnetic stirrer in beaker 1 before adding other additives.
5 components of phase 2 were transferred into another beaker and mixed well them on
magnetic stirring machine with stirring bar inside. Next, we transferred phase 1 into
phase 2 until the mixture was homogenous. Then, 1.4 grams xanthan gum was added into
the mixture. After that, 0.8 grams NaCl would be added if the mixture did not form gel
phase. Then the mixture was filled up to 100 mL by distilled water. Finally, pH was
adjusted by 25 drops citric acid before adding 4 drops of orange essential oil.

III. RESULTS:
 Figure 1. Facial foam Figure 2. pH test result

 The figure 1 illustrates that facial foam is opalescent appearance and in form of gel.
The smell is sweet and pleasant. When applying on the skin with water, it creates
different sizes of bubbles which can wash out all of dust on the face skin. Moreover,
the foam provide a smooth feeling not a greasy skin or any allergy. The pH value in
figure 2 drop in 5.0 approximately, which is belong to pH safety range for face skin
(pH: 4.0 – 6.0). This foam can apply for both normal and sensitive skin.

IV. DISCUSSION:
In this experiment, we perform the early step of R&D at making facial foam which
was prepared by three main ingredients and eight additives in table 1. SLS and PEG-7
are foaming agents which play a main role in facial foam. SLS provides small
bubbles while PEG-7 creates lager bubbles. SLES is also a foaming agent however
it’s quite costly, so SLS and PEG-7 are suitable choice. This is not only time-saving,
but also cost-saving. SLS and PEG are recommended less than 20% and 10% in total
volume, respectively. Secondly, moisturizers could be moist XS (sodium lactase),
glycerin, provitamin B5 or vitamin E or triglyceride. Provitamin B5 was chosen since
it not only can protect the skin's barrier, but also help retain its moisture levels to
improve the softness and elasticity. However, these contents should be less than 5%,
8%, 0.5% or 1%, respectively to avoid sticky feeling. Thirdly, allantoin was used as
anti-allergy agent for skin and the preservative agent was DMDM. This is also
recommended less than 1% for allantoin and 0.5% for DMDM. Next, xanthan gum
 was added to enhance the ability of gel forming in this experiment. Thickening and
emulsifying agent are another function of xanthan gum. It is added to foam facial to
keep them uniformly thick and can prevent products from separating. They are
humectants (attracts moisture to the skin), naturally emollient, and has a cooling
effect on skin. After that NaCl was added to provide sodium cation to react with other
molecule, which enhance gel thickener. At the last step, desirable pH was adjusted
around 4.0 – 6.0 by citric acid before adding fragrance. And 5.0 is our pH value that
can apply for normal skin and sensitive skin.
After this experiment, we have some noted that: at first, SLS and PEG need dissolve
carefully to avoid over bubbles in the mixture. And using sonicator is the best choice
for this step. This method can dissolve the solid fast and not create large amount of
bubbles. Secondly, NaCl should be added when the mixture is still not reach desirable
gel form. At the end, the product might be required to contain less than 30% foaming
agent to wash out of dust on skin and pH around 4.0 – 6.0 (4.0: contain more acid
concentration to clean all dead cell which applies for normal skin; 6.0: less acid
concentration for sensitive skin).

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