SPME ASSIGNMENT

SEWING PRODUCTS
MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENT

DONE BY:
VISHNU P R

BFT/19/355
 INDEX

 AUTOMATIC SPREADING MACHINE

 MANUAL SPREADING MACHINE
 AIR FLOATATION TABLE
 PINNING TABLE
 TYPES OF KNIFE
 Straight Knife
 Round Knife
 Band Knife
 Die Cutting Machine
 NOTCHER Machine
 Drill Machine
 CNC Machine
 Laser Cutter
 Plasma Cutter
 Servo Cutter
 Fusing Machine
 SEWING MACHINE
 Single Needle Lock Machine
 OVER EDGE STITCHING MACHINE

SPREADING
Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric into long,
wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The
number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments
desired and the fabric thickness. Spreading can be done by hand or
machine.
Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process
because it is basic for obtaining a high-quality final product.
Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric into long,
wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The
number of layers of fabric is dictated by the nusmber of garments
desired and the fabric thickness. Fabric Spreading Machines are used
for bulk production.

AUTOMATIC SPREADING
MACHINE
Automatic Spreading machines are used in the
unwinding of large rolls of fabric. When using
industrial machines and tools to produce garments,
the fabric is often ordered in giant rolls and
a spreading table is often used in order to evenly roll
out and spread the fabric so that it can be cut for each
garment piece.
ADVANTAGES

Purpose installing an automatic spreading machine 

There are number of benefits of installing the automatic spreader

 to automate cutting room operations

 to reduce manpower requirement in fabric spreading (cutting
section)
 to improve production capacity in the cutting section
 to speed up the fabric layering process
 to improve fabric utilization
 to have detailed statistical of fabric spreading time, fabric
utilization etc.
 Here, m/c can be set before the expected amount of plies
spreading.
 After completing, fabric spreading will stop automatically and
give a signal.
 By using robotic system, it will automatically come to the end
of table and set another roll in the spreading head when
spreading of each roll is finished.
 It is automatically spliced and starts new fabric spreading
where the last fabric roll has finished.
 There is a spreading head, so that any types of fault are
identified by using this sensor and also the spreading head is
stopped and the defective fabric is cut by itself.
 Any kinds of fabric can be spread by using this machine and
any kinds of lay can be made.
 Less time is needed here for fabric spreading.
 Also, it needs less labour cost.

Disadvantage of Automatic Spreading Machine:

 It is very expensive, so that capital investment is high.
 Skill full operator is needed to operate these types of
Machine.
 MANUAL SPREADING MACHINE
It is designed for spreading rolls of material with weights up to 500 or
800 lbs. (227/363 kg). Available in both semi-automatic and manual
modes, the Select system features electric edge control and ...
Compare this product Remove from comparison tool.
This spreader used to have two synchronized drive motors; one for
linear motion along the table and another for rotating the fabric roll
for unwinding fabric. To align one side of fabric selvedge along the
table automatically, mechanical sensors were used. Although these
spreaders solved lot of labour-related issues, certain quality-related
problems still persisted like asynchronous and varying tension along
the spread and inability to use the meter-fold fabric package. The
asynchronous tension was due to gradual reduction of amount of
fabric unwounded owing to reducing diameter of roll.

Advantages of Manual Fabric Spreading:
 Easy to operate.
 Investment low.
 Suitable for small scale garment industry
Characteristics of the manual spreading process:
The manual spreading process is done on a spreading table
with a flat surface. The fabric feeder, on which the fabric roll is
hanged, may be attached to the spreading table, on a wall, or
maybe on a stand next to the spreading table. Usually, the lay
end cutter that is used to cut the placed fabric plies is attached
to the spreading table that is head-to-head with fabric feeder.
The roll of the fabric is fixed on the feeder axis before the
process of spreading starts. The fixation of fabric roll is
according to the spreading mode that will be performed; it may
 be face side up or face side down. The sequential steps are
involved in the manual spreading process. These steps are
mentioned below

 Marking of the spread data

 Spreading the fabric plies
 Placing the marker on the top of the spread

Disadvantages of Semi-automated spreading process:

 Loading of the fabric roll.
 Cutting is still manual.
 Not appropriate for large scale production houses.
 Requires higher labour cost to operate.
 No sensors in spreading head.
 All types of fabric spreading cannot be done

Air flotation table

It allows easy movement of a layup onto an adjacent cutting area. A layer of
air between the table surface and bottom layer of paper reduces friction
between and allows a lay up to be moved easily without putting stress on the
fabric.

The force required to move a load over surface is the product of the weight
and the coefficient of friction. The resistance to movement can be dramatically
reduced by any method that reduces the coefficient of friction.
There are air-flotation tables which create air cushion and reduce friction
between table surface and fabric layer, and most light-to-medium weight
fabrics can be transported by this. There are also conveyorized tables where
moving conveyor is used to transport lay of heavy weight fabric.

ADVATAGES
 Low-head circular tank.
 Bottom sediment removal system.
 System of continuous cleaning of the inside wall.
 Inspection window for checking the floatation.
 Automatic control of the thickness of the floated matter (upon request)

DISADVANTAGES
Dispersed air flotation is generally unsuitable for water treatment as the
bubble size is large and because of high turbulence and use of undesirable
frothing and surfactant chemicals.
 PINNING TABLE

These are tables of smaller size. Table tops are two layered – while the top
layer is fixed with the table stand and have pinholes in horizontal and vertical
grid, the bottom layer has pins protruding through the pinholes.
It is used to reduce ply slippage during layer cutting by a straight knife or while
transferring fabric blocks to band knife which are rare and are generally solved
by customized solutions by temporarily fixing pins either at both ends of lay or
at specified intervals (based on repeat size) alongside the selvages.

ADVANTAGES
 Some usages of pins and pin tables for aligning stripes and checks, while
laying fabric in cutting room applications are:
  To reduce ply slippage while layer cutting by straight knife;
  To reduce ply slippage while transferring fabric blocks to band knife;
  To align checks and stripes during layering;
  To align checks or stripes while relaying block cut components.
 CUTTING MACHINE
Cutting is one of the processes in garment manufacturing. In bulk garment
manufacturing, multiple fabric layers are cut at a time by means of cutting
machines. Different types of cutting machines and equipment are available for
cutting fabrics and machines are used as per requirement and production
volume.

TYPES OF CUTTING MACHINE:

STRAIGHT CUTTING MACHINE

Features of Straight Knife Cutting Machine
 Here, knife is driven by using electric power.
 Straight edge is mostly used in straight knife.
 Here, blade stroke varies from 2.5 to 4.5 cm.
 During cutting, grinding wheel helps to sharp the cutting knife.
 Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
 This type of knife can cut heavy fabric.

Advantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

 A large number of fabric lays can be cut by the machine due to

high length of knife & RPM of the motor. ...
 Automatic grinding.
 Automatically lubrication.
 Comparatively cheap.
 Can be moved easily by wheel.
 Suitable for straight line & curve line.

Disadvantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

 High speed of the machine causes high risk of damage.
 Faulty knife could damage fabric layer.
  Motor weight creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty
pieces.
 Risk is high for physical damage of operator.
 Knife required to replace.

ROUND KNIFE MACHINE

Round knife machines are used to cut large and medium size components with
a simple shape from low fabric spreads (1–12 fabric plies) or to cut single
articles from 1 or 2 material plies. The machine is moved along the cut
contours while the fabric spread remains in a fixed position.

Features of Round Knife Cutting M/C:

 Some key elements of round knife Fabric cutting machines are base
plate, electric motor, circular blade etc.
 Band knife blade is circular.
 Band knife blade diameter ranges from 6 to 20cm.
 This type of blade is driven by electric power.

Advantage of Round Knife Cutting Machine:

 Suitable for cutting single ply as well as multilayer (say 20-30layers).
 Easy to handle & operate.
 Suitable for small scale cutting.
 Suitable for gentle curve line cutting.
 To cut the larger part of the garments.
 Disadvantage of Round Knife Cutting Machine:
 Very low RPM & knife height.
 Manual grinder is used.
 Low productivity since few number of lay can be cut.
 Difficult to cut small components & high curve line.
 Not suitable for large production.
 Lubrication is manually done.

BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

Band knife cutting machine is an endless and looks like a loop. It is used for
the cutting of fabric rolls without cardboard-inner tube. It is important
instrument of cutting fabrics. This cutting machine works automatically
according to the height of the relevant material.

Features of Band Knife Cutting M/C:

 This type of knife consists of a series of three or more pulleys which are
powered by electric motor.
 Band knife blade is normally narrower than straight knife.
 Here, cutting knife is endless in shape and also flexible.
 It is one kinds of saw mill cutter.

Advantages of band knife cutting machine:

Very large productivity for limited products, such as collars, cuff,
placket, etc. Automatic grinder grinds the knife instantly. Air blower
helps to reduce the fabric weight which increases smooth movement of
fabric. Possible to cut 90° angle of the lay.

Disadvantages of band knife cutting machine:

 Not suitable for large component due to the length of the table.
 Work load is high as machine is stationary and fabric is movable.
 Running cost is higher.
 Required fi x space.
 Not possible to cut fabric directly.
 Not possible to cut fabric directly from lay.
DIE CUTTING MACHINE

In a nutshell, your die cutting machine is the device used to cut your chosen

shapes out of paper, vellum and other compatible materials.

Features of Die Cutting M/C:

 Pressers and clickers are mainly two types of die cuttings are available.
 To cut sharp and small parts it is mostly used in apparel industry.
 Important parts of this fabric cutting machines are blade, motor, ram
head etc.
 Die is made by metallic strip.

The Advantages of Die Cutting

 Unique. Die cut designs allow for flexibility and a one-of-a-kind
design. ...
  Interactive. With die cut paper, you can offer an interactive element
that makes your product more fun! ...
 Compelling. Finally, die cutting allows for creative designs that create a
pleasing effect. ...
 Atlantic Graphic Systems.

Disadvantages
 uses sharp blades so can be dangerous.
 can be quite expensive if not used often.
 new ones have to be made for each design.
 has to be mounted onto a strong plywood base before cutting

NOTCHER MACHINE
NOTCHER is used to identify folding line, seam line etc. ... NOTCHER
machine. Features NOTCHER Machine: A knife NOTCHER is an
upright, cylindrical device which cuts the side of a block to a
predetermined distance.

Features of NOTCHER Cutting M/C:

 It is special type of cutting machine.
 It is used in special cases.
 The notch can be made in V-shape or U-shape.
 It is used to cut notch in the edge of some important components.

Advantages of NOTCHER machine:

 It is a special type of cutting machine & use in special case.
 Useful to cut small notch to the fabric.
 It is most useful to make consistency in notching.
Dis-advantages of NOTCHER Machine:
Only use to make notch to the fabric. Thermoplastic fibre can't cut by
this machine. The use of machine is limited.

DRILL MACHINE

Features of Drill Cutting M/C:

 The main components of this fabric cutting machines are motor, base
plate, drill and spirit level.
 In hypodermic drill some colour is sprayed along with the hole. So that it
can easy to find the marked place.
 In case of tightly woven fabric, drill is permanent for long to making
hole.
ADVANTAGES OF DRILL CUTTING MACHINE
For tightly woven fabric the hole is permanent for a long time. Advantage of
Drill Machine. This machine is needed to mark on the end of components of
dresses specially for setting pocket, dart & so on. It can make the hole
permanently for a long.

CNC CUTTING MACHINE

Computer Numerical Control (CNC) laser cutting commonly uses optics, an

assist gas, and a guidance system to direct and focus the laser beam into the
workpiece. The many benefits of CNC laser cutting include: Speed. Less waste.

Features of Computer Controlled Knife Cutting M/C:

 Computer controlled knife cutting method provides the most accurate
possible cutting at high speed.
 Here, cutting knife is very hard and oval shaped.
 During cutting, marker is not needed to put over the fabric lay.
 Cutting blade is made of stainless steel.
 Sharpness of knife is also high here.
 This type of fabric cutting machines followed the CAD system.
 Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer
programme.
 Advantages of CNC Machining
 The accuracy of the CNC machine ensures consistent product quality. ...
 Increased production speed and increased efficiency. ...
 One of the main advantages for the operators of CNC machines is
safety. ...
 CNC Machining is more cost effective.

Disadvantages
 Cost: CNC machines are more expensive and require a greater initial
investment than machines that can be operated manually. ...
 Skills Loss: As the demand for manual machine operators decreases,
fewer and fewer new students adopt those skills.

PLASMA CUTTER
Plasma cutting is a process that cuts through electrically conductive materials
by means of an accelerated jet of hot plasma. Typical materials cut with a
plasma torch include steel, stainless steel, brass and copper, although other
conductive metals may be cut as well. Plasma cutting is often used in
fabrication shops, automotive repair and restoration, industrial construction,
and salvage and scrapping operations. Due to the high speed and precision
cuts combined with low cost, plasma cutting sees widespread use from large-
scale industrial CNC applications down to small hobbyist shops.
ADVANTAGES
 Able to cut all conductive materials. ...
 Great quality for thickness up to 50 mm.
 Maximum thickness up to 150 mm.
 Comparatively cheap for medium thickness cuts.
 Best way to cut medium thickness stainless steel and aluminium.
 CNC machines are available to provide high precision and repeatability.

LASER CUTTER

Laser cutting is a technology that uses a laser to slice materials. While

typically used for industrial manufacturing applications, it is also starting
to be used by schools, small businesses, and hobbyists. Laser cutting
works by directing the output of a high-power laser most commonly
through optics. The laser optics and CNC (computer numerical control)
are used to direct the material or the laser beam generated. A
commercial laser for cutting materials uses a motion control system to
follow a CNC or G-code of the pattern to be cut onto the material. The
focused laser beam is directed at the material, which then either melts,
burns, vaporizes away, or is blown away by a jet of gas,leaving an edge
with a high-quality surface finish.
 Advantages of Laser Cutting

 Flexibility. Laser cutting does not require an exchange of tools for each
separate cut. ...
 Precision. Accuracy is one of the primary advantages of laser cutting
when compared to other thermal cutting methods. ...
 Repeatability. ...
 Speed. ...
 Automation. ...
 Quality. ...
 Contactless Cutting. ...
 Versatility.

Disadvantages of laser cutting:

Efficiency and power consumption depends on the type of section that need
to be carried out and nature of the laser. Usually, laser cutting have high
energy consumption. Laser cutting of plastic components can be expensive
because when exposed to heat, plastic emits gas.
 FUSING

Fusing process is one kinds of alternative method of fabric joining which is

vastly used to attach the interlining. It is a common process for the garments.

FUSING MACHINES
Fusing Machines are used to fuse a fusible material to a base fabric through a
process of heat, pressure and time. The fused product should have an
acceptable bond strength, capable of multiple washes or treatment.
The equipment used for fusing is classified as specialized fusing presses, hand
irons and steam presses.
There are three types of fusing process used in garments which are mentioned
in the below: Reverse fusing, Sandwich fusing, Double fusing.
Means of Fusing Fussing equipment must control
these factors:
1. Temperature: • This must be high enough to achieve the necessary
temperature at the glue line which will change the dry thermoplastic resin into
a partially molten state in order that it will flow. • For each resin there is a
limited range within which the correct level of flow is achieved.
2. Pressure: • The equipment must provide enough consistent pressure
intimate contact between interlining and outer cloth over the whole surface of
the interlining. • This ensures correct transfer of heat to the glue line and
correct penetration of resin among the fibers of the outer fabric
. 3. Time: • The equipment must provide enough time to allow the
temperature and pressure to induce melting of the resin and penetration of
the outer fabric in order to produce satisfactory bond; too much time may
result in strike back and strike through.
4. Cooling: • Enforced cooling is done so that the fused assemblies can be
handled immediately after fusing.
Machinery and Equipments For fusing, the basic requirement is pressing.
There are three types of press: • Steam; • Flat bed; • Continuous fusing. 
Steam Press: • Used for certain types of fusibles. • Required glue line
temperature is achieved by the means of steam from the head of the press.
Limitations: – Sometimes steam press does not reach the heat level required
by most of the resins. – Fusing of small parts is difficult due to uneven pressure
applied over the full buck area.

ADVANTAGES
It shortens manufacturing time with a consequent reduction in direct labour
cost. There is a reduction in the skill required in many operations involving
fusing compared with the sewing in of interlinings and this also reduces
Training time.
 SEWING MACHINE

A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with
thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution
to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing
companies. Since the invention of the first working sewing machine, generally
considered to have been the work of Elias Howe and Englishman Thomas Saint
in 1790,[1] the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and
productivity of the clothing industry.

Home sewing machines are designed for one person to sew individual items
while using a single stitch type at a time. In a modern sewing machine, the
process of stitching has been automated so that the fabric easily glides in and
out of the machine without the inconvenience of needles, thimbles and other
tools used in hand sewing. Early sewing machines were powered by either
constantly turning a handle or with a foot-operated treadle mechanism.
Electrically-powered machines were later introduced.

Industrial sewing machines, by contrast to domestic machines, are larger,

faster, and more varied in their size, cost, appearance, and task.
·    Needle Bar: It holds the needle
·    Needle Plate or Throat Plate:  it is used to support the material and helps in
the smooth movement of material
·    Pressure Spring: This is used to increase or decrease the pressure on the
material
·    Hand Lifter: It lift the pressure foot by hand
·    Knee Lifter: It lift the pressure foot by knee
·    Tension Post: It gives the tension to the needle thread
·    Needle Thread Take Up Spring: It gives tension to the needle thread along with
the tension post
·    Stitch Length Dial: It adjust length of the stitches
·    Reverse Feed Control Lever: It form the stitches in the reverse direction
·    Hand Wheel: It helps to operate the machine manually
·    Hook Shuttle: It helps the interlacement process between needle thread and
bobbin thread
·    Bobbin Case Holder: It holds the bobbin and its case together
·    Oil Sight Window: It helps in observing the presence of the adequate quantity
of oil
·    Oil Pump: It circulate the oil in he machine
·    Oil Pan: It keep the oil for sufficient lubrication
·    Thread Guide: It provide the passage for thread from needle package to needle
 SINGLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH
SEWING MACHINE
The term “single needle stitching”, often found on dress shirt labels, refers to a
lockstitch. A lockstitch sewing machine uses two threads, one in the needle
and the other in a bobbin. The motion of the needle and the hook correctly
timed, makes each stitch to be locked.
The single needle lockstitch sewing machine is getting drive from the
electric motor which is mounted in sewing table. The main parts of the
sewing machine are flywheel, eccentric or cam, needle bar, bobbin
holder, feed dog and presser foot.

The flywheel is driven by motor belt and it drives the sewing machine
main shaft. Another end of the main shaft is connected with eccentric or
cam, which drives the needle bar’s up and down movements for every
revolution and take-up lever.
The every rotation of the main shaft moves the needle a full cycle of up
and down movements.
 
The main shaft is further connected with a bevel gear and two
connecting rods to transfer the motion to the bottom of the machine. The
bevel gear rod is used to transfer the motion to the bottom centre shaft,
which is the main shaft for connecting the bobbin shuttle mechanism.
This connection helps the bobbin shuttle to move. The bevel gear
mechanism helps to transfer the motion without any energy loss

Every one revolution of the main shaft is connected to the every

revolution of shuttle hook to make one unit stitch.
 
The other two connecting rods from main shaft are used to connect with
the feed dog, which has a synchronized movement with needle and
bobbin shuttle mechanism.
 
The feed dog has to perform four stop motions for every cycle of stitch
formation. The feed dog gets drive from main shaft in two ways, one is
rotation – to deliver the unit length of the fabric for sewing and another
motion is the up and down movements above the throat plate of the
sewing machine.

OVER EDGE STITCHING

MACHINE
An over EDGE is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or
two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. USUALLY an
overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are
fed through (such machines being called SERGERS in North America),
though some are made without cutters.
machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such
machines being called SERGERS in North America), though some are
made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows
overlock machines to create finished seams easily and quickly. An
overlock sewing machine differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in
that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a
bobbin. Loopers serve to create thread loops that pass from the
needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of the
fabric are contained within the seam.

Overlock sewing machines usually run at high speeds, from 1000 to

9000 rpm, and most are used in industry for edging, hemming and
seaming a variety of fabrics and products. Overlock stitches are
extremely versatile, as they can be used for decoration,
reinforcement, or construction.
USES
Overlock stitches are traditionally used for edging and light seaming.
Other applications include:
 Sewing netting
 Butt-seaming is used for joining the ends of piece goods.[2]
 Flat-locking
 Edging emblems
 Purl stitching
 Rolled hemming
 Decorative edging