Development Team

Principal Investigator Prof. Farhan J Ahmad

Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi

Dr. Vijaya Khader

Former Dean, Acharya N G Ranga Agricultural University
Dr. Javed Ali
Paper Coordinator Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi

Content Writer Dr. Sanjula Baboota

Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi

Prof. (Mrs.) Kamla Pathak

Content Reviewer Professor, Pharmaceutics

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
0
 Nail Products 2016

CONTENTS

 Nail Structure
 Nail Varnish
Types of nail varnish
Basic ingredients
Formulation
Top nail lacquer brand available in India
Evaluation of nail lacquer
 Nail varnish remover
Basic mechanism behind the working of nail lacquer remover
Types of nail enamel remover
 Miscellaneous nail product
 Summary
 Suggested reading

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
0
 Nail Products 2016

1.0 Nail structure

Structure of nail is shown in figure 1. Nail consists of following parts:

Nail root

It is also known as germinal matrix. This is the part of nail which sits under skin. The root starts
with finger or toe and ends at nail base. The roots are connected to blood vessels which provide
nutrients for the growth of nail.

Lunula

It is also referred as half moon. This is the part of nail seen as white curved piece near nail base.
The main function of lunula is that it is necessary for nail formation.

Cuticle

Cuticle is also called as eponychium. It is situated between nail plate and skin. It restricts the
entry of water into skin.

Perionychium

Perionychium is situated between nail plate and skin but at the sides of nail. Some time nail
grows into the perionychium causing hangnail.

Nail plate

Nail plate is the hard, brittle area of nail to which nail lacquer is applied. It is made of keratin and
has translucent appearance. But as blood vessels are present beneath it that's why nail plate
appear as pink. The top of nail plate has smooth surface where as the bottom has grooves that
assist the nail plate to attached with nail bed.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
1
 Nail Products 2016

Nail bed

Nail bed is situated below the nail plate. It is not actual part of the nail, but it is very important
for the growth of nail. It provide strength to nail.

Free edge

Free edge is the part of nail which appears as whitish. This part of nail does not receive any
nourishment from blood vessels.

Figure 1: Structure of nail

2.0 Nail Varnish

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
2
 Nail Products 2016

The most important group of manicure product (preparations used for care of nail) is nail varnish
which is a viscous liquid system comprising of film former used to decorate nails. There are
various types of nail polish finishes like shimmer, micro-shimmer, glitter, frost, creme, lustre,
glass-flecked, iridescent, magnetic, matte, jelly, opalescent and duo-chrome.

There are few characteristics for ideal nail lacquer:

1. It should be innocuous to the nail and skin.

2. It should be easy and convenient to apply.
3. It should exhibit good stability.
4. It should produce film with satisfactory characteristics like sufficient flexibility, uniform
thickness, color, good gloss and adhesion.
5. It should be capable to produce hard non-tacky film with satisfactory drying properties.

2.1 Types of nail varnish

2.1.1 Base coat nail varnish

It is generally employed to apply on nail surface before nail polish in order to minimize the
appearance of ridges which are commonly observed on unbuffed nail. Their coating provides
strength to nails and helps film adherence to the nail. They are helpful in restoring the moisture
in nails.

2.1.2. Top coat nail varnish

Top coat nail polish is a clear lacquer and generally consists of manganese violet. It commonly
available by the name of "quick-drying". It is used after application of nail lacquer so that it acts
as a barrier and prevents film chipping and peeling. Moreover, it assists drying of underlying
lacquer.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
3
 Nail Products 2016

2.1.3. Gel nail varnish

Gel polishes consists of methacrylate which is used in same manner as traditional nail lacquer.
Methacrylate is added as bonding material. It sets more rapidly and sticks strongly to the surface
of nail. Gel nail varnish unlike other nail lacquers it is difficult to remove from nail.

2.1.4. Matte nail varnish

Matte nail varnish (or regular varnish) is available in various textures and shades. These are
commonly used to give a dull finish to nail lacquer. These types of nail polish are capable of
producing different appearance. These type of varnish comprises of stearalkonium hectorite (a
thickening agents).

2.2. Basic Ingredients

Film formers, plasticizers, solvents, dyes, opacifying agents, adhesive polymer, thickening
agents, diluents, etc are the different ingredients of nail polish.

2.2.1. Film- forming material

These agents are added to nail lacquer to impart resistance to abrasion. Nitrocellulose is an
example of film former which is a cellulose nitrate and produce tough, hard and water resistant
film. It is obtained when sulphuric acid and nitric acid are reacted together with cotton. There are
different categories of nitrocellulose, which are characterized on the basis of viscosity in organic
solvent. Few examples of film former include cellulose acetate butylate, ethyl cellulose, cellulose
acetate and vinyl polymers.

2.2.2. Plasticizers

Plasticizers are the materials used to produce flexibile and non-brittle films, so that the film
remains on the nail after the evaporation of solvents. In this way film gets well adhered and does

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
4
 Nail Products 2016

not flake off unnecessarily. Plasticizers like dibutyl phthalate and sulphonamides, camphor,
phosphates, phthalyl glycollates and citrate which are commonly employed, improves the flow
property of nail varnishes and help in improving the gloss of film. The plasticizers have been
categorized in two groups. The first group include solvent plasticizer generally high molecular
weight esters, exhibiting low volatility and high melting point, which act as solvent for film
former material. The second group includes non solvent plasticizer which acts as softner
(example, castor oil).

An ideal plasticizer should have the following characteristics:

1. It should be miscible in all ratios with the solvent and other excipient.
2. It should be inert to skin and nails.
3. It should possess low volatility.
4. It should be capable of increasing the flexibility and adhesion of the nail varnish.
5. It should not result in discoloration/degradation of the finished product.
6. It should be stable.

2.2.3. Solvents

To obtain desire viscosity of film former material, solvents are important. Table 1 lists the names
of solvents. These are mainly categorized into three groups.

a. Solvents (example, acetone or ethyl acetate) having low boiling point (upto 100°C).
b. Solvent having medium boiling points (100-150°C) like n- butyl acetate.
c. High boiling point solvent (more than 150°C) like cellosolve, cellosolve acetate, butyl
cellosolve.
Table 1: Solvents with their distillation range
Solvent Distillation range (°C)
Ethyl acetate 75-83

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
5
 Nail Products 2016

Ethanol 78
Heptane 94-99
Isopropyl acetate 86-90
Toluene 110.2-111
Butanol 116-118
Isopropyl alcohol 80
Xylene 138
Hexane 65-69
Isobutyl acetate 112-119

2.2.4. Dyes and pigments

Dyes and pigments are generally used to impart different colour and shades to the nail polish.
These agents should disperse well, be resistant to chemicals, that are usually present in
soaps/detergents and be non-staining. Some of the examples of dyes and pigments:
 Ferric ferrocyanide
 Chromium oxide greens
 Carmine
 Chromium hydroxide,
 Titanium dioxide
 Iron oxide
In addition to the conventional pigment, nail lacquer sometimes also contains iridescent material
Guanine which is a crystalline substance. It is obtained from the scales and body of various fish.
This material has high refractive index. It also has pearly luster and brilliance.

Pigments are generally categorized as natural and synthetic (table 2).

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
6
 Nail Products 2016

Table 2: Different types of pigments

Pearlescent material Example Availability Use

Natural Guanine Suspension in a As clear or pigment
nitrocellulose butyl lacquer at a
acetate lacquer at a concentration
level about 11 % between 8 and 10 %.

Synthetic Bismuth Suspension in Pigment lacquer

oxychloride nitrocellulose- butyl
acetate toluene mixture
Mica coated with Nitro cellulose- solvent Pigment
titanium dioxide suspension

2.2.5. Opacifying agents

Opacifying agents are whitening agents which are added to impart different shades. Titanium
dioxide and zinc oxide are the example of opacifying agents. Insoluble lakes are usually
incorporated in the majority of nail lacquer to generate a suitable shade, together with titanium
dioxide. Titanium dioxide is used to impart opacity and to generate pale shade, whereas iron
oxides are employed to generate brown and tan shades.

2.2.6. Adhesive polymer

Adhesive polymers confirm the adherence of film former to the nail's surface. Resins are the
adhesive polymers capable to impart gloss, adhesion and often to increase the hardness of films.
Examples of two commercially available resins of the aryl sulphonamides formaldehyde are
Santolite MHP and santolite MS 80%, of which the former is harder and is capable to increase
nitrocellulose film hardness and impart gloss while the later increases moisture resistance and
forms film of greater flexibility. Shellac, benzoin and sandarac are some natural resins used as

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
7
 Nail Products 2016

adhesives. Sulphonamide-formaldehyde resin (poly aryl sulphonamides) is an example of

synthetic resins. Resins consisting of polymerization products of acrylic acid and its derivative
may be used in nitrocellulose composition, and it has been claimed that this will overcome
inherent disadvantage of nail varnishes such as shrinkage during drying, peeling at the edge of
nail, discoloration, thickening of the enamel by evaporation of volatile ingredient when stored in
poorly stopped container, and failure to achieve proper gloss and durability.

2.2.7. Thickening agents

The purpose of adding these agents in formulation is to maintain the solid particles in suspending
form. Stearalkonium hectorite is a common agent. These agents show thixotropy and their
solutions are viscous. All these characteristics help to produce a film that quickly rigidifies.

2.2.8. Ultraviolet (UV) absorbers

UV absorbers help in avoiding color change of dry film when exposed to sunlight.
Benzophenone-1 and its derivatives are the common example of UV light stabilizers which avoid
degradation of other ingredients of nail lacquer product from the effect of UV light.

2.2.9. Diluents

Diluents are generally added to nail lacquer in order to stabilize the viscosity of product.
Moreover, diluents reduce the overall cost of product. Some common examples of diluents
include ethyl alcohol, butyl alcohol and isopropanol.

2.2.10. Suspending agents

Suspending properties have been obtained by formulating system having thixotropic

characteristic by employing clays. Examples of suspending agent include benzyl
dimethylhydrogenated tallow, ammonium montmorillonite and dimethyldioctadecylammonium

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
8
 Nail Products 2016

bentonite. The modern trend towards highly pigmented and pearlescent nail lacquer has led to
the critical assessment of the ability of traditional nail lacquer formulae to suspend these
materials at high concentration. Additionally, consumers have reacted against products showing
settled out material and thus system developed to avoid sedimentation show themselves both to
be technically superior and to have enhanced customer acceptance. The suspension properties are
obtained by creating a thixotropic system with the use of pretreated colloidal clays such as
benzyl dimethyl hydrogenated tallow ammonium montmorillonite. These clays increase the
viscosity of the system to such an extent that the heavy oxide pigment remain in suspending
form. When a shear force is applied to the system by shaking, or by brushing the product across a
nail, the viscosity drops sharply, allowing a smooth application. On standing, the system regains
its initial high viscosity.

2.3. Formulation

A general formula for nail lacquer base is represented in table 3.

Table 3: Typical nail lacquer base and its composition

Nail lacquer base Percent

Nitrocellulose 10.00
Resin 10.00
Plasticizer 5.00
Alcohol 5.00
Ethyl acetate 20.00
Butyl acetate 15.00
Toluene 35.00

Another example of a clear base lacquer can be described as in table 4.

Table 4: Clear base lacquer

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
9
 Nail Products 2016

Ingredient Purpose Percent use

Nitrocellulose Film former 18.28
Santolite Resin 6.43
Camphor Plasticizer 1.88
Dibutyl phthalate Plasticizer 2.15
Butyl acetate Solvent 25.42
Ethyl acetate Solvent 6.45
Toluene Diluent 29.56
Isopropanol Diluent 9.83

The preparation of nail lacquer involves the following distinct steps:

 In a mixer about 75% of solvent is added to the diluents.
 Under constant stirring, nitrocellulose and solvent are added.
 Plasticizer and resin are added under constant stirring.
 The obtained clear lacquer is passed through filter press.
 The pigmented chips are added under continuous stirring and the prepared nail lacquer is
packed and stored.
 As nail lacquers are highly inflammable that’s why their filling and packing should be
done carefully (under fire-proof conditions).
2.4. Top nail lacquer brand available in India

There are various nail lacquer brands manufactured by different companies (table 5).

Table 5: Top nail lacquer brand

Brand Manufacturer
Lakme Hindustan Unilever Ltd, India
Colorbar Samir Modi, India
Elle 18 Hindustan Unilever Ltd, India
Chambor Genev, Switzerland

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
10
 Nail Products 2016

Inglot Prezemysl, Poland

Lotus Lotus Herbals Ltd

2.5. Evaluation of nail lacquer

2.5.1 Abrasion resistance:

This test helps in determining the wear resistance of film. Abrasion resistance is an important
parameter which decides the period of nail paint coating. It is determined by periodic analysis of
applied coating on the nail. Taber Abraser is commonly used to determine the abrasion
resistance.
2.5.2. Adhesion:

A good coating should adhere to the surface of oil. Cellophane tape adhesion is a common
technique used to determine the adhesion. In this test, a coating of lacquer is applied. This
coating is scribe with blade. A cut is made half inch wide and one inch high. A piece of
cellophane tape is laid over the surface of coating. The tape is then pulled and removed rapidly.
Percentage of coating material removed is an indicator of nail lacquer adhesion.

2.5.3. Colour:

Colour strength is determined by comparing the test sample with standard after application on a
black and white chart.

2.5.4. Drying time:

The performance of a lacquer directly relies on the volatility properties of its solvent and hence
on its drying. To evaluate the drying time, a thin layer of lacquer is spread on a glass plate and
the time taken for it to dry is recorded. The complete drying is observed by pressing the film

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
11
 Nail Products 2016

with a finger, so that no sign is retained on the surface of the film. A good lacquer film should
dry out within 3 minutes.

2.5.5. Viscosity:

Brook field viscometer is commonly employed to determine the viscosity of sample by placing
200 gm quantity of it in a 8-oz closed jar. The jar must be covered in order to reduce solvent loss.
At 25˚C, an optimized nail lacquer should exhibit viscosity about 400-600 cps.

2.5.6. Non volatile content or solids:

Excess solid content affect the application, durability and appearance of film. Dish method is
generally employed to evaluate the solid content. About 1-2 gm of lacquer is poured into a tared
dish (having 2.5 inch diameter). The gross weight of dish (containing sample) is determined. The
solvent of sample is allowed to evaporated by placing it in an oven at temperature of 105 ± 2˚C
for two hours. After drying the sample, the weight of solid residue is calculated. Percent solid
content should be 29 % for nail lacquers.

3.0 Nail Varnish Remover

Nail lacquer is generally washed out/removed by nail varnish remover. Generally, nail varnish
remover comprises of organic solvent (like acetone). Acetone can also be used to remove
artificial nails, which are typically made of acrylic and gel nails. Nail lacquer dissolves the
ingredients of nail lacquer and helps in the removal of nail lacquer.

3.1. Basic mechanism behind the working of nail lacquer remover:

On applying nail lacquer, the film-former (like nitrocellulose) cross-polymerizes and produce a
mesh like structure. On applying nail lacquer remover on it, the organic solvent gets occupied in
the void spaces of mesh and disintegrates the cross-connections in the film. Finally, the film gets
solubilised in nail lacquer remover solvent.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
12
 Nail Products 2016

Some of the other important ingredients of nail polish removers include

 Solvents (e.g., propylene carbonate, ethoxy ethanol)

 Emollients and moisturizers (e.g., panthenol and glycerin)
 Preservatives (e.g., propylene glycol)
 Lipids (e.g., castor oil, lanolin oil)
 Vitamins (e.g., tocopheryl acetate)
 Perfumes
 Colouring dyes.

Ideal characteristics of a nail varnish remover:

a. It should not be too volatile so that it evaporates at the time of use.

b. It should be non-irritating to skin and nail.
c. It should not leave the nails sticky or brittle.
d. It should have pleasant odour.

The product used as enamel remover usually consist of simple mixtures of solvents like acetone,
methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and isopropyl alcohol. Originally castor oil was used, but nowadays
ester such as dibutyl phthalate, fatty alcohols or soap may be used for the same purpose.

An example of an enamel remover is listed in table 6.

Table 6: Formula for enamel remover

Ingredient Percent
Butyl stearate 5.00
Diethyl glycol monoethyl ether 10.00
Acetone 85.00

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
13
 Nail Products 2016

In general, creamy nail enamel remover comprises of a fairy high- boiling solvent and emollient
agent. They may also consist of a lacquer solvent solidified by means of a suitable wax. An
example of a creamy nail enamel remover explained in the US patent is represented in table 7.

Table 7: Example of creamy nail enamel remover

Ingredient Percent
Paraffin or beeswax 11.50
Lanolin 4.00
Sodium or potassium linoleate 2.60
Methyl ethyl ketone qs. 100

Another example of creamy nail enamel remover is given in table 8.

Table 8: Creamy nail enamel remover

Ingredient Part
Ethyl acetate 40.00
Ammonium hydroxide 3.80
n- butyl acetate 40.00
Perfume 0.10
Ethyl cellulose 2.80
Castrol oil 4.00
Stearic acid 11.00

Procedure for formulating nail enamel remover:

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
14
 Nail Products 2016

 Mix ethyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, ethyl cellulose, castor oil and stearic acid and heat the
mixture to obtain a uniform system (or a clear liquid) at 50- 60°C.
 Add ammonium hydroxide gradually under constant stirring.
 Cool the mixture and pack.

3.2. Types of nail enamel remover

The nail enamel removers are classified into four types depending upon their composition (table
9).

Table 9: Different types of nail enamel remover

Type I Consists of solvent blends and a small amount of oily ingredient.

Type II Also known as non-smearing enamel and it comprises of water miscible solvents and
water.
Type III Comprises of soap, waxes and solvent.
Type IV Comprises of hydroxypropylcellulose

4.0 Miscellaneous Nail Product

Nail drier, plastic fingernails, cuticle remover, nail repair color and many others are various
miscellaneous nail products and are listed in table 10.

Table 10: Miscellaneous nail products

Products Description
Nail drier Nail drier are aerosol formulation which make use of the rapid
evaporation of a propellant to speed up the drying of freshly
enameled nail, by drawing off the solvent present in the nail
varnish. Sometimes drying is combined with the deposition of the

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
15
 Nail Products 2016

transparent film of the oil over the freshly applied enamel, to

reduce its tackiness and to prevent it from smearing if touched.
Plastic fingernails Plastic fingernails and elongators are likely used to improve the
and elongators cosmetic appearance of damaged or short stubby nails.
Cuticle remover Removes overgrown cuticles
Nail repair colour Strengthen and prevents nails from breaking, peeling and splitting.
Nail repair anti-bite It has bitter taste thus is helpful in stopping nail biting habit. It
forms a film on the nail which is not easily washable.
Nail magic buffer It helps in promoting the production of natural nail moisture and
prevents them from drying out. It assists in equalizing the ridged
nails.
Nail brightener It masks the slight discolorations present on nail.
Nail white pencil It is used to highlight and accentuate the nail tips.
Cuticle balsam Enables to moisturize the cuticles and prevent their drying out. It
is used to supports the growth of nail.
Nail repair matt Prevents nail damage
Nail balsam Moisturizes nails.

5.0 Summary
 Nail polish is viscous liquid comprising of film former and other components intended to
be applied on the nails to decorate them.
 Objective of using a film-former (like nitrocellulose) in nail polish is to leave a thin coat
over the nail which is capable to glamourize the nail and also provide protection.
 Chemicals generally employed to remove nail polish include acetone and ethyl acetate.
 Resins are added in nail polish as it assists film-forming compounds to stick more
strongly to nail.
 Plasticizers are capable to make flexible nail polish coating.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
16
 Nail Products 2016

 Benzophenone-1 is an example of ultraviolet stabilizers.

 Nail polish remover acts by occupying in between the polymer chains in the nail polish
and is capable to separate the chains and removes nail polish.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetics
sciences Nail Products
17