Need To Learn

Introduction:
This article has been written for the beginners of garments & buying house. So, I’ve emphasized on very
basic things. I’ve also tried to use easy English to make it understandable for all.
A. Weight Conversion:
As a garments / buying house worker, we often need converting weight. For this, we need know the
information below.
1 lb. = 453.6 grams -----LBs = Grams / 453.6 -----Grams = LBs X 453.6

1 kg = 2.2 lbs. ----------Kilogram = LBs / 2.2 -----LBs = KG X 2.2
1. A sweater’s weight 950 grams, find out weight in lbs.?

Answer: 950 / 453.6 = 2.094 LBs (Pounds) (453.6 grams = 1 lb.)
2. A Bundle of Yarn’s weight 3 lbs., find out weight in grams?

Answer: 3 x 453.6 = 1360.80 grams (1 lb. = 453.6 grams)
3. A sweater of 3 kg weight, find out weight in lbs. ?

Answer: 3 x 2.2 = 6.6 lbs. (1kg = 2.2 lbs.)
4. A sweater of 3 lbs. weight, find out weight in KGs ?

Answer: 3 / 2.2 = 1.36 KGs (2.2 lbs. = 1 kg)
B. GSM, Oz (Ounces), Embroidery Unit:
We, the workers of garments & buying house, are very much familiar to GSM, Oz & Embroidery. For
novice, please note, it’s generally counted weight of knitted fabric in GSM (Grams per Square Meter).
For woven fabrics, it’s counted weight in Oz (Ounce) Per Square Yard. Now we will learn how to convert
them.
Oz per Square Yards = GSM / 33.906 ----12000 stitches = 1 unit (embroidery stitch)
100cm X 100cm X 100cm = 1 CBM -----12inches X 12inches X 12 inches = 1 Cubic Feet
5. A Single Jersey Knit Fabric GSM 200 grams, find out Oz Per Square Yard ?
Answer: 200 / 33.906 = 5.898 Oz. (33.906 GSM =1 Oz per Square Yard)
6. A Twill Fabric of 8 Oz, find out it’s GSM ?

Answer: 8 x 33.906 = 271 GSM. (1 Oz per Square Yards = 33.906 GSM)
7. A fabric with warp thread 120, weft thread 60, Count of yarn 40, find out its GSM ?
Answer: (120 + 60) x 47 / (40 + 40) + 5 = 110 GSM (We should called around 110 as there are a lot of
formulas & no formula can reach the actual amount of GSM till now)
Formula: ( warp + weft) x 47 / (warp count. + Weft Count.) + 5 = GSM.
In case different types of warp thread or weft thread is used then this formula may not work accurately.
It is also known as conversion formula from Fabric Construction to Fabric Weight.
8. A woven fabric with warp thread 120, weft thread 60, Count of yarn 40, find out its Oz per Square
Yard?
Answer: {(120 + 60) x 47 / (40 + 40) + 5} / 33.906 = 3.27 Oz per Square Yard. (1 Oz per Square Yard =
33.906 GSM)
Formula: {(warp + weft) x 47 / (warp count + Weft Count) + 5} / 33.906 = Oz per Square Yard
See the photo below to identify warp & weft threads.
Identify warp & weft threads

Note: Fabric Construction (120 x 60 / 40 x 40) means there are 120 threads in warp (EPI) & 60 threads in
weft (PPI) & both yarn’s count is 40 on 1 square inch fabric. EPI means Ends per Inch & PPI means Picks
per Inch.
See photo below to identify EPI & PPI.

Identify EPI & PPI
The image above shows that vertical threads are EPI (warp thread) & horizontal threads are PPI (weft
thread).
9. A carton Length 60cm, Width 40cm & Height 30cm, find out CBM (Cubic Meter) ?
Answer: 60 x 40 x 30 / 1000000 = 0.072 CBM (1 CBM = 1000000 square cm)
Formula: length X width X height / 1000000
10. Carton’s Length 80cm, Width 60cm, Height 30cm, find out CBM of 100 cartons ?
Answer: 80 x 60 x 30 / 1000000 x 100 = 14.4 CBM.
Formula: length X width X height / 1000000 X carton quantity
11. Carton’s Length 14 inches, Width 12 inches, Height 8 inches, find out CBF (Cubic Feet)?
Answer: 14 x 12 x 8 / 1728 = 0.777 CBF (1 CBF = 1728 square inches)
Formula: length X width X height / 1728
12. 1 unit embroidery stitch price tk.20, one garment has 800 embroidery stitches, find out
embroidery costing of the garment ?
Answer: 20 / 12000 x 800 = 1.33 taka. 1 embroidery unit = 12000 embroidery stitches.
Formula: price / 12000 X embroidery stitches
C. Measures Conversion:
To learn about Measures conversion, please memorize the formulas below. It’s so important for RMG
workers to know & learn measures conversion.
1 inch = 2.54 cm centimeter (cm) = inch X 2.54 1 meter = 39.37 inches 36 inches = 1 yard
13. A fabric with a length of 100 yards, find out it’s length in meters ?
Answer: 100 x 36 / 39.37 = 91.44 Meters (1 yards = 36 inches) (1 meter = 39.37 inches)
14. A fabric with a length of 100 meters, find out it’s length in yards ?
Answer: 100 x 39.37 / 36 = 109.36 Yards.
15. A fabric’s Width (Dia) is 54 inches, find out the Knitting Machines Dia in cm ?
Answer: 54 x 2.54 + 1.62(Shrinkage Percentage) = 138.78cm
(Suppose, this fabric’s shrinkage% is 3 after finish/wash. We’ll learn of fabric shrinkage in my next Note
well)
D. Fabric Consumption:
Fabric Consumption is very important for a probationer of management & merchandizing. As 60% to
70% cost of a garments comes from fabrics. During fabric consumption, please consider wastage
minimum 5%.
16. A fabric piece of Length 10 yards, Width 40 inches & GSM 180, find out its weight in kg?
Answer: 10 x 36 x 40 x 180 / 1550000 = 1.67 KGs
Formula: length X width X GSM / 1550000 (1 yard = 36 inches)
Firstly, you have to convert the fabric length into inches, as you see we have fabric length in yard &
width is in inches. Please note, divided value “1550000” is used if the measures of fabric is mentioned in
inches or yards. For cm & meters, the value will be changed.
17. A fabric roll of Length 70 meters, Width 48 cm, GSM 200, find out the fabric roll’s weight in kg ?
Answer: 70 x 100 x 48 x 200 / 10000000 = 6.72 KGs
Formula: length X width X GSM / 10000000 (1 Meter = 100 cm)
Firstly, you have to convert the fabric length into cm (centimeter), as you see we have fabric length in
meters & width is in cm. Please note, divided value “10000000” is used if the measures of fabric is
mentioned in cm or meters.
18. 2 KGs’ fabric with length 15 yards, width 28 inches, find out it’s GSM ?
Answer: 2 x 1550000 / 15 / 36 / 28 = 205
Formula: kg X 1550000 / length / width (1 yard = 36 inches)
Here value “36” is used to convert fabric’s length into inches, because we have fabric length in yard &
width is in inches. Please note, divided value “1550000” is used if the measures of fabric is mentioned in
inches or yards. For cm & meters, the value will be “10000000”.
19. 2 kgs fabric with length 14 meters, width 71 cm, find out it’s GSM ?
Answer: 2 x 10000000 / 14 / 100 / 71 = 201.
Formula: kg x 10000000 / length / width (1 meter = 100 centimeter)
Here value “100” is used to convert fabric’s length into centimeter, because we have fabric length in
meter & width is in cm. Please note, divided value “10000000” is used if the measures of fabric is
mentioned in cm or meters.
20. A basic pant of Length 40 inches, width 12 inches, GSM 210, find out its fabric consumption in KGs?
Answer: 40 x 12 x 4 x 210 / 1550000 + 5% = 0.27 kg.
Formula: length X width X 4 X GSM / 1550000 + Wastage% (This formula is applied if the measurement
of pant is in inches, for cm measurement value “1550000” will be changed. Value “4” means the pant
has four panels or sides.
Please Note, all measurements mentioned in this book are imaginary. Merchandiser of a factory always
calculates consumptions of something in dozen. But I’ve calculated in piece. You need multiply the
outcome with 12 to convert consumption in dozen.
The photo below shows you a pant’s Length & Width.

A pant’s Length & Width
21. A pant with Length 100 cm, Width 30 cm, GSM 210, Figure out it’s Fabric Consumption in
KGs/dzn ? (1 dozen = KGs?)
Answer: 100 x 30 x 4 x 210 / 10000000 + 5% x 12 = 3.18 KGs.
Formula: (length X width X 4 X GSM / 10000000 + 5%) x 12 (This formula is applied if the measurement
of pant is in cm)
22. A pant of Length 40 inches, Width 12 inches, you have a fabric of width 34 inches, find out 12
(dozen) pants’ fabric consumption into yards ?
Answer: (40 x 12 x 4 / 34 / 36 + 5%) x 12 = 19.81 Yards.
Formula: (length X width X 4 / Fabric Width / 36 + wastage %) x 12 (36 inches = 1 yard)
23. A T-shirt with Chest 46 cm, Body Length 60 cm, Sleeve Length 23 cm, Half Armhole 27 cm, fabric’s
GSM 200, figure out it’s fabric consumption in kgs/dzn ?
Answer: [{(46 x 60) + (23 x 54)} x 2 / 200 / 10000000 + 5%] x 12 = 2 kgs.
Formula: [{(chest X length) + (sleeve length X full armhole)} x 2 X GSM + wastage%] x 12
24. A T-shirt with Chest 18 inches, Body Length 24 inches, Sleeve Length 9 inches, Half Armhole 10
inches, fabric width 48 inches, find out it’s fabric consumption in yards / dozen ?
Answer: [{(18 x 24) + (9 x 20)} x 2 / 48 / 36 + 5%} x 12] = 8.95 yards.
Formula: [{(chest X length) + (sleeve length X full armhole)} x 2 / fabric width / 36 + wastage%] x12.
The photo below indicates T-shirt & its measurement point.
T-shirt & its measurement
Note: A shirt or pant with more parts like collar, pocket, cuff etc. then we’ve to figure out consumption
of each parts separately, and finally we need add all consumptions together. One more important thing,
I didn’t mention sewing allowance during fabric consumption of product. You have to add sewing
allowance with each measurement point during fabric consumption.
25. Suppose, we've made a marker of 5 pcs shirts to cut fabrics. we see, marker length 7 yards 4
inches, marker width 60 inches, fabric GSM 180, now figure out Marker Consumption & Fabric
Consumption in Dozen ?
Answer: Marker Consumption: (7 x 36 + 4) x 60 x 180 / 1550000 = 1.78 KGs You see, firstly I’ve
converted Marker Length into inches (7 x 36 + 4) as 36 inches = 1 yard.
Formula: marker length X marker width X GSM / 1550000
Fabric Consumption in dozen: (7 x 36 + 4) x 60 x 180 / 1550000 / 5 x 12 = 4.28 KGs. Formula: marker

consumption / pcs X 12
So, we see,
KG = length X width X GSM / 1550000

Or, Length = KG x 1550000 / width / GSM
Or, Width = KG x 1550000 / length / GSM
Or, GSM = KG x 1550000 / length / width (Please add wastage minimum 5% with all outcome).
E. Thread Consumption:
We often need figure out thread consumption of various items like Shirt, Shorts, Tank tops and Pants
etc. Thread consumption means how much thread we need to stitch a product. To figure out thread
consumption, we’ve to pay concentration on sewing machines, number of needles, fabric thickness &
above all how much thread is used to stitch 1 inch by a machine. And you need consider minimum 10%
wastage to find out thread consumption of a product. Information below shows you how much threads
you need to stitch 1 inch of fabric. It differs fabric to fabric as on their GSM & construction. Besides you
can stitch 10 inches of a fabric, then cut 1 inch stitch, measure the length of each thread, then figure out
total length of threads & finally add wastage minimum 10%. We know, it’s a long process. Better we can
memorize information below & imagine wastage depending on fabric GSM. For fabric with high GSM,
we’ve to increase wastage percentage. If we want to figure out thread consumption of a shirt, then
firstly we’ve to separate the different stitching of that shirt. Look information below for how much
thread you need to stitch one inch fabric by different sewing machines.
Single Needle Plain Machine needs 2.75 inches thread for per inch stitch
 2 Needles Plain Machine = 5.5 inches for per inch stitch
 3 Threads Over lock Machine = 15 inches thread for per inch stitch
 4 Threads Over lock Machine = 19 inches thread for per inch stitch
 5 Threads Over lock M/c = 23 inches for per inch stitch
 Safety Stitch = 20 inches for per inch stitch
 Flat lock Stitch = 32 inches for per inch stitch
 2 Needle Kansai M/c = 12 inches for per inch stitch
 1 Needle Chain Stitches = 5 inches for per inch stitch
 Feed of the Arm M/c = 11 inches for per inch stitch
 Button Hole = 24 inches for per inch stitch
 Bar take M/c = 26 inches for per inch stitch
 Button Stitch of 2 Eyes (holes) = 3 inches thread
 Button Stitch of 4 Eyes (holes) = 6 inches thread
26. A shirt having 104 inches 4 Threads Over lock stitches, 52 inches Flat lock stitches, 20 inches 1
Needle Chain stitches, 15 inches Single Needle Plain Machine stitches, GSM is normal, find out its
thread consumption in meters?
Answer: {(104 x 19) + (52 x 32) + (20 x 5) + (15 x 2.75) + 10%} / 39.37 = 106.71 Meters. (39.37 inches = 1
Meter)
27. Suppose, we want to buy thread cones with 2000 meters thread, now figure out how many cones
do we need to stitch 3000 pcs of garments, per garment’s thread consumption 106.71 meters?
Answer: 106.71 x 3000 / 2000 = 160 cones.
You can also visit following website that will provide you excel files for calculating thread consumption
of different product.
F. Carton Consumption & Pricing:

28. A carton with Length 60cm, Width 40cm & Height 30cm, figure out a Cargo Measurement for 208
cartons?
Answer: 60 x 40 x 30 / 1000000 x 208 = 14.976 CBM
Formula: length X width X height / 1000000 X carton quantity
29. A carton of 7 Ply, Length 80cm, Width 60cm, Height 30cm, total carton 120 pcs, find out carton
measurement in square meter ?
Answer: (80 + 60 + 6) x (60 + 30 + 4) x 2 / 10000 x 120 =329 Square Meters.
Formula: (length + width + wastage) X (width + height + wastage) x 2 / 10000 X carton quantity. (You can
avoid wastage, if you wish)
30. 3 ply carton’s per square (100 x 100) meter’s rate is USD 0.20, carton’s length is 60cm, width 40cm,
height 30cm, total required carton quantity is 150 Pcs, figure out price of total cartons?
Answer: (60 + 40 + 6) x (40 + 20 + 4) x 2 / 10000 x 150 x 0.20 = 48.70 USD.
Formula: (length + width + wastage) X (width + height + wastage) x 2 / 10000 X carton quantity X price
G. Poly Bags Consumption & Costing:

Most used poly bags in garments industries are PP (polypropylene) poly bags, PE (polyethylene) & LDPE
(low density polyethylene), HDPE (high density polyethylene) etc. Basically there’re three different ways
to measure poly bags thickness.
 Mil (1 mil = 1/1000 of an inch)
 Microns (1 microns = 1/1000 of a mm)
 Gauge (1 gauge = 1/100000 of an inch)
Conversion, 1 mil = 25 microns = 100 gauge.
Note: Gauge is the most used system of counting poly bags’ thickness worldwide.
31. A poly bags having length 30 inches, flap 3 inches, width 16 inches, poly thickness 150 gauge. Now
find out weight of 1000 pcs poly bags?
Answer: {(30 + 1.5) x 16 x 150 / 3300} = 22.91 KGs for 1000 pcs
Formula: KGs needed for 1000 pcs poly bags = {(length + half flap) X width X gauge / 3300}
Now, if we want to find out weight of 1 pcs poly bag, then we need divide the outcome with 1000.
Answer: 22.91 / 1000 = 0.023 KGs. (1 pcs poly bag weight)
Note: You see, I count flap measurement in half (1.5 inches) during calculation because flap is single
layer & length, width of a poly bag is double layer.
32. Now the question is 1 lbs. polymer price is 0.40 USD, find out cost of 22.91 KGs polymer?
Answer: 22.91 x 2.2 x 0.40 = 20.16 USD. (1 KG = 2.2 lbs.)
33. A poly bags having length 30 inches, flap 3 inches, width 16 inches, poly thickness 150 gauge. 1 lbs.
polymer price is 40 taka. Now find out cost of 1 pcs poly bag?
Answer: {(30 + 1.5) x 16 x 150 / 3300 / 1000 x 2.2 x 40} = 2.01 taka
H. Button Linear & Button Counting:

34. Figure out ligne of a button with 10mm Dia?
Answer: 10 / 0.635 = 15.75 ligne or 16 L (L means ligne)
Formula: Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or 1 / 0.635 x button Dia in mm

35. Per shirt has 6 buttons, total order quantity 3456 pcs, figure out total button quantity in GG ?
Answer: 6 x 3456 / 1728 = 12 GG. Formula: number of buttons per product X order quantity / 1728 (1
GG = 1728 pcs)
Note: We need add some extra quantity (minimum 3%) while counting buttons for an order to save us
from risk in case of shortage due to defective & damaged.
Memorize the information below regarding button.
Button Linear or Button Length: 1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm, 1 ligne = 0.635 mm
12 Pcs = 1 Dozen, 12 Dozen = 1 Gross, 12 Gross = 1 GG (1728 pcs).
I. Threads Length Calculations:

36. If I question you to figure out length of 2 lbs. (pound) single cotton threads? Then the question will
be so tough for few of us to solve. So, we first need know information below. Then the question will be
so nice & easy.
 1 lb. single cotton thread length = 840 yards
 1 lb. single linen / viscose thread length = 300 yards
 1 lb. single wool thread length = 300 yards
 1 lb. single silk thread length = 840 yards
 1 lb. single acrylic thread length = 560 yards
Answer: 2 x 840 = 1680 yards. (As we knew from above information that 1 lb. single cotton thread
length = 840 yards)
37. Figure out Length of 2 lbs. 16s (sixteen single) cotton thread?
Answer: 2 x 16 x 840 = 26880 yards. (1 lb. single (1) cotton thread length = 840 yards)
Therefore, Sixteen Single (16s) = 16 x 840 = 13440 yards = 1 lb.
Note: The count of yarn (thread) will be increased, then the thickness of yarn will be decreased. Just
practice it more & more to make you perfect.
J. Sweater Gauge Counting & Yarn Consumption:

In knitting, the word gauge is used both in hand knitting and machine knitting. Technical abbreviation is
GG, refers to "Knitting Machines" fineness size. In both cases, the term refers to the number of stitches
per inch, not the size of the finished garment. In both cases, the gauge is measured by counting the
number of stitches (in hand knitting) or the number of needles (on a knitting machine bed) over several
inches then dividing by the number of inches in the width of the fabric.
See image below to know how to count Knitting Gauge.
Knitting Gauge
38. Now question is - A sweater has 50 stitches on 4 inches fabric, find out its gauge (GG)?
Answer: 50 / 4 = 12.5 (That means the sweater belongs to 12 GG).
Otherwise, we can memorize the information below to identify sweater’s knitting gauge by yarn (Count
and Ply). I’m not a sweater expert, you can discuss with expert for more information. (If you need).
Sweaters GG
Gauge Count & Ply Count & Ply
3 GG 2/16 4 plies
5 GG 2/16 3 plies
7 GG 2/16 2 plies
10 GG 2/32 3 plies
12 GG 2/32 2 plies 2/16 1ply
Note: To figure out yarn consumption of sweater, you’ve to add minimum 10% wastage. See calculation
below as reference.
39. Sweater’s color is white, order quantity 5000 pcs, yarn consumption in dozen 11.5 lbs. how many
lbs. of yarn you need for this order?
Answer: 11.5 / 12 x 5000 + 10% = 5324 lbs. Formula: yarn consumption dozen / 12 x 5000 + 10%
(wastage)
K. Garments CM (Cost of Manufacturing) Calculation:

CM means Cost of Manufacture. It actually means Manufacturing Cost of 1 Dozen (12 pcs garments). To
calculate Manufacturing Cost of 1 dozen knit garments of a specific order we’ve to know the topics
below:
1. Monthly expense of factory,
2. Total running machine,
3. Machine quantity to execute the layout of mentioned order,
4. Daily (8 hour per day) productivity of the order,
5. Dollar conversion rate (if monthly expense is different from USD)
Suppose,
 Monthly Factory Expense = 50,00,000 Taka
 Working days of the month = 26 days
 Daily Factory Expense: 50,00,000 / 26 = 1,92,307.69 Taka. Formula: monthly factory expense /
working days in the month
 Total running machine quantity = 150 Machines
 Daily Expense of 1 Machine: 192307.69 / 150 = 1282.05 Taka. Formula: daily factory expense /
total running machine
 Machine quantity of layout for mentioned order = 27
 Daily cost for the layout: 1282.05 x 27 = 34,615 Taka. Formula: daily expenditure of 1 machine X
Machine qty for the layout
Suppose,
 Hourly production of the layout = 125 pcs
 Normal daily working hour = 8 hours
 So, Daily Production of the layout: 125 x 8 = 1000 pcs. Formula: hourly production of the layout
X normal daily working hour
 Manufacturing cost of 1pc: 34615 / 1000 = 34.62 Taka. Formula: daily cost for the layout / daily
production of the layout
 So, CM (Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments): 34.62 x 12 = 415.44 Taka. Formula:

manufacturing cost of 1pc x 12
 Dollar conversion rate: 1 US Dollar = 77.30 Bangladeshi Taka.
 So, CM (Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments) in US Dollar: 415.44 / 77.30 = 5.37 US$
 20% profit would be added with CM: 5.37 x 20% = 1.07 US$
 So, Final CM = 5.37 + 1.07 = 6.44 US$.
L. Garments Costing Formula:

For garments costing, one needs to have clear concept of the raw materials’ price & CM calculation of
garments. Following one is the sample costing sheet of knit garments. If you need this sheet in excel file,
then mail me. This sheet will give you a basic clear concept regarding garments costing. As garments
costing depends on various aspects, so there is no specific formula for garments costing except this
sheet.
I have so many questions to ask. I’m leaving those upon you. Make questions & solve them by yourself.
It’s time to say you good bye. Let me finish here today as I have many things to do now. Sorry, I can’t
revise my writings due to lack of time. I beg your pardon again if anything wrong & boring. See you soon
with so many questions & answers again. Wish you best of luck.
Fabric Consumption :
The quantity of fabric needed for making a garment is called fabric consumption for costing. It is difficult
to know the actual consumption before completion of marker planning but we can get an approximate
fabric consumption from sample.
Fabric consumption is calculated by two process :
1. From marker ( it is more accurate)
2. From measurement or mathematical system ( it is approximate)
How to calculate fabric consumption from marker?
For example, if we have got 12 pcs marker and we know that markers needed fabric is 25 yds and one
time we lay 200 ply. So how much time to lay and what is the actual fabric consumption for 1000 dozen
of garments?
Solution :
One time lay, we can get, 200 X 12 = 2,400 Pcs.
Here, total garments, 1000 dozen = 12 X 1000 = 12,000 Pcs.
Lay time = 12,000 ÷ 2,400 = 5 times lay.
Fabric consumption for 1000 dozen garments = 5 X 200 X 25 = 1000 X 25 = 25,000 yds.
If wastage is 3% then actual fabric consumption = 25,000 + 3% = 25,000+750 = 25,750 yds..
International Fabric Width :
Internationally fabric having five types of width for woven fabrics 35”, 40”, 45”, 50”, 60”.
International Size Grading :
Infant baby = 1-2-3 years, Size : 1-2-3
Toddlers = 4-5-6 years, Size : 4-5-6
Boys & girls = 6-16 years, Size : 6-8/S, 9-11/M, 12-14/L, 15-16/XL, 16+/XXL .
Basic Information Relevant to Consumption :
1. Measurement with technical specification
2. Style description
3. Fabric description
4. Fabric length or weight and width
5. Washing shrinkage.
Fabric consumption per dozen of a full shirt:

Considering medium size (M) for calculation-
1. Body Section:
(body length+allowance) X (1/2 chest+allowance) X 2
= ( 74cm+5cm) X (55cm+5cm) X 2 = 79cm X 60cm X 2 = 9480 sq. cm.
1. Sleeve Section:
(sleeve length+allowance) X (arm hole straight+allowance) X 2 X 2
=(65cm+4cm) X (23cm+3cm) X 4 = 69 cm X 26cm X 4 = 7176 sq. cm.
1. Collar & Collar Band:
(collar band length+allowance) X (collar band+collar point+allowance) X 2
=(41cm+3cm) X (3cm+7cm+4cm) X 2 = 44cm X 14cm X 2 = 1232 sq. cm.
1. Pocket:
(pocket length+allowance) X (pocket width+allowance)
=(14cm+3cm) X (12cm+2cm) = 17cm X 14cm = 238 sq. cm.
1. Extra Yoke:
(shoulder across+allowance) X (yoke height+allowance)
= (48cm+4cm) X (11.5cm+4cm) = 52cm X 15.5cm =806 sq.com.
Now fabric consumption per shirt will be,
A+B+C+D+E = (9480+7176+1232+238+806)sq.cm =18932sq.cm=18932÷127=149.07cm=1.49m =1.5m/Pc.
Size Rato:
S = 2X1.48 m = 2.96 m
M = 3X1.50 m = 4.50 m
L = 3X1.52 m = 4.56 m
XL = 2X1.54 m = 3.08 m
XXL =2X1.56 m =3.12 m
Total = 18.22 m/dozen.
Costing per dozen of shirt:
1. Fabric cost = 18.22 mX $ 1.64 = $ 29.88
2. Accessories cost = $ 5.50
3. Washing cost = $ 1.50

4. Dyeing cost = $ 50
5. Cutting & Making charge = $ 15
Total manufacturing cost = $ 101.88
.profit 10% = $ 1.19
Commission 5% = $ 5.09
Selling price per dozen of shirt = $ 108.16
Fabric consumption of a polo shirt:
Considering medium size (M) for calculation-
1. Body Section:
(back length+allowance) X (chest circle+allowance)
= ( 30.75”+2”) X (48”+2”) = 32.75” X 50” = 1637 sq. inch.
1. Sleeve Section:
(sleeve length- ½ across shoulder+allowance) X (arm hole straight+allowance) X 2 X 2
=(20.75”-10.5”+1.5”) X (10”+1.5”) X 4 = 11.75” X 11.5” X 4 = 540.5 sq. inch.
Now fabric consumption per shirt will be, A+B = 1637+540.5 = 2177.5 sq. inch.
=2177.5X6.45=14048.36 sq.cm.=1.40sq.m
Size Ratio:
S = 2X1.38 = 2.76 sq.m
M = 3X1.40 = 4.20 sq.m
L = 3X1.42 = 4.26 sq.m
XL = 2X1.44 =2.88 sq.m
XXL = 2X1.46 = 2.92 sq.m
Total fabric = 17.02 sq.m/dozen.
Fabric consumption=17.02 X170 (gsm)=2893.4 gms = 2.9 kg/dozen.
Costing per dozen of shirt:
1. Fabric cost (2.9 kg X $10.00) = $ 29.00
2. Collar cost/dozen = $ 8.00

5. CM charge = $ 5.00
.profit 10% = $ 4.85
Fabric consumption per dozen of a trouser:
Measurement for medium (M) size:
Waist = 32”
Length = 40”
Width of crotch point = 13”
*Pocket length = 12”
*Pocket width = 7”
Fabric consumption per trouser = ( length+allowance) X (width+allowance) X 4
= ( 40”+3”) X (13”+3”) X 4 = 43” X 16” X 4 = 2752 sq. inch.
Lenth of fabric(width of 50”) per trouser = 2752÷50 = 55.04 inch.=1.53yds.
It is also required to calculate pocketing fabric requirement. As per design two front pocket needs
pocketing fabric is calculated as follows-
=(pocket length+allowance) X (pocket width+allowance) X 4
=(12”+2”) X (7”+2”) = 14” X 9” X 4 = 504 sq.inch.= 504÷45 =11.2” = 0.31yd/Pc
= 0.31 X 12 = 3.73yds/dozen = 3.73 X 0.91 = 3.40 m/dozen
Fabric consumption per dozen trouser as per size ratio:
Waist size No. of Pcs yards
32 2 1.53 X 2 = 3.06
33 2 1.55 X 2 = 3.10
34 3 1.57 X 3 = 4.71
35 3 1.59 X 3 = 4.77
36 2 1.61 X 2 = 3.22

Total fabric consumption = 18.86 yds = 18.86 X 0.91= 17.16 m/dozen
Costing per dozen of trouser:
1. Fabric cost (17.76m X $2.00) = $ 35.52
2. Pocket fabric cost/dozen( 3.40m X$1.00) = $ 8.00
5. CM charge = $ 20.00
.profit 10% = $ 7.30
Fabric Consumption in Garment making
How to calculate the consumption of fabric for a particular garment? we must pay more attention to
find out the fabric consumption more accurately or closely. It needs sound knowledge and good
practical experience to find out the fabric consumption. Let us analyze here how to make this
calculation.
Garment prices are mainly based on the fabric consumption. Hence we must pay more attention to find
out the fabric consumption more accurately or closely. It needs sound knowledge and good practical
experience to find out the fabric consumption. Let us analyze here how to make this calculation.
As the knitted fabrics are knitted by the circular knitting machines, the fabrics will be in tabular form
only. Here we are going to see the garments which are made of 100% Cotton fabrics in tubular form.
To work on the prices exactly, we must have full measurements of the garment. But compulsorily, we
must have the measurements of Chest, Body Length and Sleeve Length.
Variable Functions
1. Fabric Consumption
2. Fabric Cost
3. Accessories Cost
4. Print/Embroidery/Washing Charge
5. C.M.
6. Freight (C & F)
7. Payment mode (at sight deferred payment 60days or 90 days or 120 days, TT, Sales Contract)
Consumption of fabric
1. Consumption (Kg/ Doz) =
(L + S.L. + AL-01) × (½ C + AL-02) × GSM ×2×12+Wastage%
100 100 1000
L (Length) = HPS (High Point Shoulder

= CBL (Central Back length)
= BL (Body Length)
S.L = Sleeve Length
AL = Allowance
Allowance
1.Sewing Allowance:
This is actually sewing allowance in lengthwise of a garment.

For T-Shirt:
Bottom Hem = 2.5-3 Cm
Shoulder Join = 1.5 Cm
Sleeve Hem = 2.5- 3 Cm
Sleeve Join = 1.5 cm
Sub Total = 9 cm
In Hand = 1 cm
Grand Total =10 cm

Per Cut and Sewn allowance = 2 cm
Note: Pocket, Half moon, double layer bottom hem, and double layer sleeve s/b calculated on
lengthwise.
2. Chest Allowance:
This is sewing allowance in widthwise of garment
a.Side Seam = ½ Chest + 3cm

b.Tube Seam= ½ Chest + 0 cm
c.Per cut and sewn allowance= 2 cm2.
Consumption (Kg/ Doz)= Length in Meter X Width In M X GSM in Kg X 2 X 12 + WastagePercentage
3. Neck Rib # 1×1/1×1 elastane rib circular
Neck Rib Consumption:
Height (Length) = Rib height or rib width or rib depth
Total Height= Rib Height X 2 + Allowance
Width = Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 2 cm (Round)
= Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 5 cm (V-shape)
A=Body Length= 70 cm
B=Sleeve length=25 cm
½ C ==1/2Chest =55 cm
A= Body length 1=15 cm
B=Body Length 2= 15 cm
C= Body Length 3=40 cm
D= ½ Chest=55 cm
A1= Sleeve length1=10 cm
B1= Sleeve Length2=5 cm
C1=Sleeve length3=10 cm
Example:-Calculate the consumption/doz on the basis of 180 GSM, S/J and neck rib gsm 230
Consumption (Kg/ Doz) =
( 70 + 25 + 10) ( 55 + 3) 180
× × × 2 × 12 + 5 %
100 100 1000
= 2.76 kg/ doz
For picture 02:
Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color A) =
( 15 + 10 + 8) ( 55 + 3 ) 180
× × × 2 × 12 + 5 %
100 100 1000
= 0.86 kg/ doz
Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color B) =
( 15 + 5 + 4) ( 55 + 3 ) 180
× × × 2 × 12 + 5 %
100 100 1000
= 0.63 kg/ doz
Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color C) =
( 40 + 10 + 5) ( 55 + 3 ) 180
× × × 2 × 12 + 5 %
100 100 1000
= 1.44 kg/ doz
Total consumption: 0.86+0.63+1.44 = 2.93 kg/ doz
Neck Rib Consumption:
Width = Neck width x 2 + 2 cm (Round)
= 19X2+2 = 40 cm
Total Height= Rib Height X 2 + Allowance= 2X2 +2=6 cm
= Length in Meter X Width In M X GSM in Kg X 12 + Wastage

2. Consumption (Kg/ Doz) = .06 X .4X.230X12+18%
=.07 kg/ Doz
Note:
Following point s/b considered during marketing cost:
1.Fleece dia is not available.
2.Y/D stripe wastage is huge
Math 02
Question: Fabric Length 100yds width 58 inches (Open) GSM 230, what is fabric weight?
Ans:Fabric weight in Kg = Length (Meter) X Width (Meter) X GSM in Kg
= l x w x GSM= (100 Yds X36 X 2.54)/100 X (58 X 2.54)/100X 230/1000

W (Kg) = 91.44 x 1.4732 x .230
= 30.99 kg
2.Question: Fabric weight 50 kg, Fabric width 40 inch (tube) GSM 180. What is fabric length in meter?
Ans:Fabric weight in Kg = Length (Meter) X Width (Meter) X GSM in KgW (Kg) = l x w x GSM
50 = l x (40x 2.54x 2)/ 100 X 180/1000
= 136.70 meter
L = 136.70 x 1.0937 yds [ 1 meter = 1.0937 yds]
= 149.50 yds
3.Question: Fabric price 2.25 USD/ yds, Width 45 inch open, GSM 200, Consumption 3.20 kg/doz, what is
the garment fabric cost for per doz garments?
= L (M) X w (M) X GSM (kg)

Ans: W (kg)
= L (M) X (45X2.54)/100 X 200/1000
= (3.20 X100X 1000) / (45X 2.54 X 200)

= 13.99 (M)
L (M)
= 13.99 X 1.0937 yds
= 15.30 yds
= Length X Unit price/ yds

= 13.99 (M)
Fabric cost (Per doz gmt)
= 15.30 x 2.25
= 34.56 USD / Doz
Piping or Binding or Back Tape:
Cons: Length in M x width in M x GSM in Kg x 12 + allowance (18%)
Length: Neck width x 2 + 2 (R shape)

Width: If width is 1 cm or any unit Pls multiply by 4
Wastage:
Distribution:
1. Sewing wastage = 3%
2. Cutting and Finishing=2%
3. Print Wastage=2-3%
4. Emb. Wastage=2-3%
5. Garment Wash wastage=5% above (Depends on wash type)
Wash types and their wastage
 Garment Normal Wash=2-3%
 Garment Enzyme Wash=3-5%
 Garment Stone Wash= 5-10%
 Garment Pigment dyeing & wash=10-20%
Note: Wastage is variable depending on factory to factory.
Woven Fabric Consumption Formula

The quantity of fabric which is required to produce a garment is called consumption. How much fabric is
required to produce a garment, we can determine it through marker planning and mathematical
system. We can calculate and determine the consumption of fabric by the following two systems: 1.
Marker planning system 2. Mathematical system . There are also two formula for fabric consumption.
One is woven fabric consumption formula and another is knit fabric consumption formula. Now I only
discuss on Consumption of woven fabric. Which is done in mathematical system.
Consumption of woven fabric

To calculate the woven fabric consumption the following requirements is need.
1. Fabric Description.
2. Fabrics width/weight.
3. Measurement chart with technical spec.
4. Washing shrinkage if any.
5. Style Description.
Formula for woven fabric consumption:
Formula = Length X Width / Fab width X Fab Unit
Here,
Length = length of the specific parts + allowance
Width = width of the specific parts + allowance
Fab width = Fabric width ( after considering the shrinkage allowance). Say, fabric width is 45″ & the
shrinkage allowance is 1″, Then the Fabric width will be (45″-1″) = 44″ in the formula.
Fab unit = Fabric calculation unit, here it will be 36 because we are going to calculate the consumption
in Yards.
For example, calculate the consumption of a Shirt (front part):
Center front length = 32″+1″ (Sewing allowance) = 33″
Width (Chest) = 24″ + 1″ (Sewing allowance) + 3″
Pleat.W (1.5*2) = 28″
= Length X Width / Fab width X Fab Unit

= 33″ X 28″ / 44″ X 36″
= 924″ / 1584″
= 0.5833333
= 0.59 Yards. (for front part)
Shortcut Method of Fabric Consumption Formula for Woven Shirt
Introduction:
In the garments trade, consumption means quality of raw materials with a view to determine the price
of a garment. In order to calculate the above quantity how much fabric, sewing thread, zipper, button
and other accessories are required to produce a garment up to the exporting is called consumption.
In previous article we have discussed about:
Fabric Consumption Calculation of Long Sleeve Woven Shirt
It is called Shortcut formula for quick consumption.
Body length = Body length + Seam allowance. (In case of wash garments, washing allowance to be
added).
Body width = Chest width + Seam allowance. (In case of wash garments, washing allowance to be
added).
Sleeve length = Sleeve length + Seam allowance. (in case of wash garments, washing allowances to be
added).
Example :
How much fabric would be required to produce a Basic long sleeve shirt , where:
 Body length = 32"
 1/2 Chest = 24"
 Sleeve length = 23"
 & Fabric width = 45"
Body length = 32" + 1" (Seam Allowance) = 33"
Sleeve Length = 23" + 2.5" (Cuff width) + 1.5" (Seam Allowance) = 27"
1/2 Chest Width = 24" +1" ( S.A) + 3" Pleat Width = 28"
Consumption Formula = { 1/2 Chest × ( C.B length + Sleeve length ) × 2 ÷ 36 ÷ Fabric Width + Wastage %}
So, Consumption = { 28 × (33 + 27)} × 2 ÷ 36 ÷ 44 + 5%
= {28×60} × 2 ÷ 36 ÷ 44+5%
= 2.22 yds/pc.

Fig : Shortcut consumption formula for woven shirt
Conclusion :
So the consumption formula is very important for garments production and over all garments activities.
Shortcut consumption formula is easy and short time formula for consumption.
Calculate Fabric Consumption for Woven Trouser:
Example: Calculate the fabric consumption for the given specification of a woven trouser. The
measurements are provided in Table.
You may also like: Sewing Thread Consumption Calculation
Table: Measurement details of woven trouser
Description Measurements in inch
Inseam length 34″
Half of thigh 13″
Back rise 15″
Waist band width 1.5″
Pocket length 7″
Pocket width 6.5″

Belt loop (l*w) – 5 numbers 1.5″ * 0.5″
Waist band circumference 38″
Pocket back (l*w) 7.5″ * 6.5″
Fabric width (1″ selvedge) 58″
Non-woven fabric width 58″
Waste % 5%

Solution:
From the provided data, the components of this garment are,
 Front – 2 panel,
 Back – 2 panel,
 Waist band – 1,
 Pocket – 2 set,
 Belt loop – 5 numbers and
 Pocket bag – 2 set.
From the measurement, the full length is = (inseam + back raise)
= 34 + 15
= 49”
The main fabric consumption =
{(Max body length x Max body width x Number of panel) + (Pocket length x Width x Number of pockets)
+ (Frint wait length x Width x 2) + (Belt loop width x Length x Number of loops)}
=
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------- + waste %
(Fabric width – selvedge) x 39.37
{(49 x 12 x 4) + (7 x 6.5 x 2) + (38 x 1.5) + (1.5 x 0.5 x 5)}

= ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ + 5%
(58 – 1) x 39.37
{(2548) + (91) + (57) + (3.75)}

= -------------------------------------------------------- + 5%
(57) x 39.37
2699.75
= ------------------ + 5%
2244.09
= 1.2030 + 5% of 1.2030
= 1.2632
Fabric consumption = 1.2632 metre / trouser.
The pocket bag fabric consumption:

If the pocket fabric used in different fabric, that particular fabrics width need to be considered in this
calculation. In this case, there is no information about separate fabric. Hence, it is assumed that the
pocket bag produced from the body fabric. So the same fabric width is used.
(Pocket bag length x width x 2)

= ---------------------------------------------------- + 5%
(58 – 1) x 39.37
(7.5 x 6.5 x 2)
= --------------------------- + 5%
57 x 39.37
97.5
= ---------------- + 5%
2244.07
= 0.0434 + 5% of 0.0434
= 0.0456 metre / trouser
The non-woven fabric consumption:

The non-woven fabric is used as interlining material in the waist band. If informations regarding the
width of the non-woven is provided it can be used. If not it is better to enquire the availability in the
stores. Based on the available width it can be used, in this case the same width is provided.
(Waist band circumference x width)

= -------------------------------------------------------- + 5%
(58 −1) x 39.37
38 x 1.5
= ------------------------------ + 5%
57 x 39.37
57
= --------------- + 5%
2244.09
= 0.0254 + 5% of 0.0254
= 0.02667 metre / trouser
The consumption details of the woven trouser are as follows:
 Main fabric = 1.2632 metre / trouser.
 Pocket fabric = 0.0456 metre / trouser
 Non-woven material = 0.02667 metre / trouser
Fabric Consumption Calculation for Knit Bottom /Trouser:

To calculate knit bottom /trouser fabric consumption at first, we need to review the knit Bottom
measurement chart (also add sewing allowance on it) & fabric specification from Technical sheet of
the garment as provided by the buyer.
Lest consider product specification as given below:
1.100% cotton Single jersey fabric for Bottom, GSM 160
2. 100% cotton Single jersey fabric for side pockets, GSM 160
Now, let’s calculate total fabric consumption by Formula of Tee shirt for Basic Size 152:
1. Fabric Consumption for Bottom:
= (ISL+Allownce+FR+Allow+WB+Allow)X(1/2 Thai+Allow) X4 X GSM X12 KGS/Dozen
10000000
= (67.5 + 5+17.5+2+4+4) X (33 +4) X 4X 160 X12 Kgs/Dozen
10000000
= 100 X 37 X 4 X 160 X12 Kgs/Dozen
10000000
=2.84 Kgs/Dozen
2. Fabric Consumption Side Pockets:

= (Pocket Length + Allow X Pocket Width+ Allow) X4X160X12 Kg/Dozen
10000000
= (13+ 4) X (10.5+4) X4X160X12 KG/Dozen)
10000000
=0.19 KG/Dozen
Now we need to add Total consumption as Bottm part & side pockets
=2.84 +0.19
=3.03Kgs/Dozen
Now adding Wastage 10% on it

=3.03 X10%
=3.33 Kgs/Dozen
So Total Fabric consumption for this Knitted bottom/ trouser is 3.33 kgs/Dozen
Knitted Trouser Fabric Consumption System
In apparel industry, trouser is the most common items & also used widely in garments sector. Most
important task for merchandiser is calculating fabric consumption for an order. If final consumption of
an order is not accurate then manufacturer will face huge problem and may lose their reputation. For
calculating fabric consumption for an order. There are two methods are using for determining the fabric
consumption. But maximum garments are using Marker method to calculate final cad marker for a
garments. Presently, marker method is more popular then Mathematical method. For information
regarding fabric consumption check below article;
 Hooded Sweat Shirt fabric consumption system
 Knitted Polo-Shirt fabric consumption system
 Basic knitted T-Shirt fabric consumption system

Trouser (Neps)
Fabric consumption for different parts:
1. Fabric consumption for Body
2. Fabric consumption for pocket
3. Total fabric consumption
Spec sheet for Knitted trouser

Trouser's M-list
Size range 134 140 146 152 158 164 170
1. Half waist (½ waist) 31 cm 32 cm 33 cm 34 cm 35 cm 36 cm 37 cm
11. Front rise (FR) 16 cm 17 cm 18 cm 18.25 19 cm 19.5 cm 20 cm

cm
12. Back rise 25.5 cm 26.5 cm 27.5 cm 27.75 28.5 cm 29 cm 29.5

cm cm
13. Waistband height 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm

(WBH)
6. Half thigh (½ thigh) 23.25 24.25 25.25 25.75 26.25 27.25 28 cm

cm cm cm cm cm cm
9. Inseam length (ISL) 58.5 cm 61.5 cm 64.5 cm 67.5 cm 70.5 cm 73.5 cm 76.5
Size range 134 140 146 152 158 164 170
cm
10. Bottom cuff height 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm
3. Side pocket length 11.75 12 cm 12.5 cm 13 cm 13.5 cm 14 cm 14.5

cm cm
5. Side pocket width 9.25 cm 9.75 cm 10 cm 10.5 cm 10.75 11.25 11.5

cm cm cm
Fabric: Fleece terry
Item: Knitted trouser
Size: 164
Fabric weight = 260 GSM
ISL = Inseam length = 73.5 cm
SA = Seam Allowance = 5 cm
FR = Front rise = 19.5 cm
SA = Seam allowance = 0 cm
WBH = Waistband height = 4 cm
½ thigh = 27.25 cm
SA= Seam allowance = 4 cm
Fabric consumption for Body / Doz.:
{(ISL + SA + FR + SA + WBH + SA) x (½ thigh + SA)} x 4 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra
cutting) x Doz.
= {(73.5 + 5 + 19.5 + 0 + 4 + 4) x (27.25 + 4)} x 4 x 260 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 4.465 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If fabric Single jersey then use GSM like 160):
{(Pocket Length + SA) x (Pocket Width + SA)} x 4 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x
Doz.
= {(14 + 4) x (11.25 + 4)} x 4 x 160 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.228 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If shell fabric then uses GSM like 240):
Doz.
= {(14 + 4) x (11.25 + 4)} x 4 x 260 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.37 kg / Doz.
Total fabric consumption of trouser (if Pocket single jersey):
Body consumption + Pocket consumption
= 4.465 + 0.228
= 4.693 kg / Doz.
Total fabric consumption of trouser (if Pocket shell fabric):
Body consumption + Pocket consumption
= 4.465 + 0.37
= 5.063 kg / Doz.
Finally note that, using above formula we will get only fabric weight that is consumed by a garment. In
the above formula, it didn’t include marker loss, fabric loss due to fabric width and fabric wastage (like
dying loss, finishing loss etc.). When we purchase fabric we have to consider all of those parameter.
Hooded Sweat Shirt Fabric Consumption System

In apparel industry, Sweat Shirt or Hoodie is the common items. As we know, consumption is the most
important part for an order and it’s also related with costing. Our main purpose is to minimize the cost
and make more profit from an order. There are two methods to determine the fabric consumption. They
are-
1. Marker planning system
2. Mathematical system
Now maximum garments industry is using marker planning method for determining final cad marker of
an order. Actually this method is more helpful then mathematical method. If you want to gather more
information regarding fabric consumption, then you can check below article;
Hoodie Sweat Shirt
1. Fabric consumption for Body
2. Fabric consumption for Hood
3. Fabric consumption for Bottom Rib
4. Fabric consumption for pocket
5. Total fabric consumption

Spec sheet for men’s Jacket:
Hoodie Measurement Back
Hoodie Measurement Front

Size range 134/140 146/152 158/164 170
1. Half chest (1/2 chest) 37.75 cm 40.75 cm 43.75 cm 45.25 cm
2. Half bottom length (1/2 bottom) 35 cm 38 cm 41 cm 42.5 cm
4. Body length from shoulder (BL) 47 cm 51 cm 55 cm 57 cm
10. Sleeve length (SL) 53 cm 57 cm 62 cm 64 cm
21. Hood height 31 cm 32 cm 33 cm 33.5 cm
22. Half Hood Width 23.5 cm 24.5 cm 25.75 cm 26.5 cm
13. ½ Cuff opening 8.5 cm 9 cm 9.5 cm 9.5 cm
3. Cuff & Bottom Rib Height 4 cm 4 cm 4cm 4cm
19. Pocket Length 14 cm 15 cm 16 cm 16.5 cm
16. Pocket Width 15 cm 16 cm 17 cm 17.5 cm
Fabric: Fleece fabric
Item: Basic men’s Hooded sweat shirt
Size: 158/164
BL = Body length from shoulder = 55 cm
SL = Sleeve length = 62 cm
½ Chest = 43.75 cm
Fabric consumption for Body / Doz.:
{(BL + SA + SL + SA) x (1/2 chest + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(55 + 5 + 62 + 5) x (43.75 + 4)} x 2 x 240 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 3.77 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for Hood / Doz.:
{(Hood Height + SA) x (1/2 Hood Width + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x
Doz.
= {(33 + 5) x (25.75 + 4)} x 2 x 240 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.703 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for Bottom Rib / Doz.:
{(Bottom Length + SA + ½ Cuff opening + SA) x (Bottom Rib height + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8%
(Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(41 + 5 + 19 + 4) x (4 + 3)} x 2 x 240 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.300 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If fabric Single jersey then use GSM like 150):
Doz.
= {(16 + 4) x (17 + 4)} x 2 x 150 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.163 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If shell fabric then uses GSM like 240):
Doz.
= {(16 + 4) x (17 + 4)} x 2 x 240 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.261 kg / Doz.
Total fabric consumption (if Pocket single jersey):
Body consumption + Hood consumption + Bottom Rib consumption + Pocket consumption
= 3.77 + 0.703 + 0.30 + 0.163
= 4.936 kg / Doz.
Total fabric consumption (if Pocket shell fabric):
Body consumption + Hood consumption + Bottom Rib consumption + Pocket consumption
= 3.77 + 0.703 + 0.30 + 0.261
= 5.036 kg / Doz.
Polo-Shirt Fabric Consumption System
In apparel industry, we know fabric consumption is the most important factor of an order. As we already
discussed, Types of fabric consumption for Knit garments & Basic knitted T-Shirt fabric consumption
system. Now we will know how to calculate polo shirt’s fabric consumption of an order. Main reason of
garments consumption is to bring an assumption over costing of the garments. Since it depends on
fabric prices therefore we should focus on fabric consumption to get accurate and closure consumption
of an order. Closure consumption of an order will reduce fabric wastage which will be economically
beneficial for us. If you want to know more about fabric consumption like Hoodies, Trouser then see the
bellow article;
Basic Polo Shirt Front
Basic Polo Shirt Back
1. Fabric consumption for body part
2. Fabric consumption for collar
Spec sheet for men’s Polo-shirt:

M-list for Polo shirt Front
M-list for polo shirt Back
Size range 92 98/104 110/116 122/128 134/140
(1) Half chest (1/2 chest) 31 cm 33 cm 35 cm 37 cm 40 cm
(2)Half bottom (1/2 bottom) 31 cm 33 cm 35 cm 37 cm 40 cm
(3)Body length from shoulder (BL) 37.5 cm 41.5 cm 46 cm 50 cm 55 cm
(8)Sleeve length (SL) 17.5 cm 19 cm 21 cm 22.5 cm 24.5 cm
Collar height 5.5 cm 6 cm 6 cm 6.5 cm 6.5 cm

Size range 92 98/104 110/116 122/128 134/140
Collar Length 27.5 cm 31 cm 30.5 cm 32.5 cm 33.5 cm
Fabric: Pique Knit
Item: Basic men’s short Polo T-shirt
Size: 122/128
BL = Body length from shoulder = 50 cm
SL = Sleeve length = 22.5 cm
½ Chest = 37 cm
TF = Trim fabric (Neck collar & cuff rib) = Neck collar & cuff rib consumption 0.80 kg/Doz.
1. Fabric consumption formula for Body / Doz.:
{(BL + SA + SL + SA) x (1/2 chest + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(50 + 5 + 22.5 + 5) x (37 + 4)} x 2 x 180 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 1.578 kg / Doz.
2. Fabric consumption formula for Collar / Doz.: Suppose, Collar GSM 320
{(Collar Length + SA*) x (Collar Height + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x
Doz.
= {(32.5 + 0) x (6.5 + 2.5)} x 2 x 320 / 100,00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.253 kg / Doz.
NOTE (Collar Length allowance): Practically, we used minus tendency in collar length measurement.
Because we can’t reduce collar length after getting the final collar from delivery section. If you want
know to calculation process for collar length, then check the below article;
Total fabric consumption for Polo shirt / Doz.:
Body consumption + Collar consumption
= 1.578 + 0.253
= 1.831 kg / Doz.
Calculate Collar Length For Polo Shirt
In apparel industry, garments merchandiser need to develop knitted polo shirt. For developing polo
shirt, we need to measure correct collar size to make the photo shirt. So, we can say that garments
merchandiser need to know correct way to measure collar measurement for sample development or
bulk production. If any mistakes come in development stage, then garments merchandiser must be
correct those mistakes before start the bulk production. Otherwise factory will face huge lose for lack of
communication between internal department.
How To Calculate Embroidery Costing
In present day, embroidery is common term in apparel industry. Embroidery used to make garments
more attractive and fashionable. Now it has come more popular and widely in garments manufacturing
sector. In other way, we can say embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other
materials with needle and thread.
Embroidery costing for garments
Costing of embroidery are based on a “Per stitch” count. After prepared the design, producer will run a
stitch count to determine the cost of the embroider. Before starting the costing, garments merchandiser
should consider of few factors to determine embroidery costing. Factors are:
 Stitch number.
 Embroidery type
 Estimate time to complete one batch.

 Color of thread.
 Cutting of applique.
 Place of embroidery.
 Resource involves in doing embroidery.
 Any restriction on selection on embroidery machine
 Any lab test requirement
 Any restriction on use of embroidery thread
Calculating Embroidery Costing:
We know embroidery stitch unit is 12000 stitch but maximum time embroidery factory didn't accept any
order on stitch. Because applique, patch etc. has taken too much time that's why embroidery factor
doesn't know actual how much time consumed to complete one batch.
1-unit embroidery = 12,000 stitch
For calculating, the cost of embroidery we need to know below details:
 Stitch quantity of the design.
 Rate of per unite. (It depends on embroidery design, size & factories ability).
Suppose, a design have 9000 stitch & per unite price is $0.30 in unit. Let's find the the costing of
embroidery.
Rules: (Rate of Unit / 12,000 X Stitch quantity) x 12
= ($0.30 / 12,000 X 9000) X 12
= $ 2.7 / dzn
So, 2.7 USD need for 1 dzn garments if garments design has 9000 stitch.
Sewing Thread Consumption
We need to figure out sewing thread consumption of various item like T-shirt, shorts, pants and tank
tops. As a textile engineer, we need to calculate sewing thread consumption perfectly for costing
purpose / bulk production. Sewing thread consumption means how much thread we need to stitch for
an garments. To figure out garments thread consumption, we have to pay concentration on sewing
machine, number of needles, fabric thickness. We need to calculate how much thread is used to stitch 1
inch by machine. And also we have to consider minimum 10-15% wastage to find out thread
consumption of a product. Below information shows you how much thread you need to stitch 1 inch of
fabric. By the way, it differs fabric to fabric as on their GSM & fabric construction. If you want to check
your self, then you can stitch 10 inches of fabric, now cut 1 inch stitch, measure the length of each
thread, now figure out the threads & finally add wastage minimum 10%. It's long process, so better we
can memorize information and imagine wastage depending on GSM. For high GSM fabric, we need to
increase wastage percentage. If we are working on T-shirt then we have to separate the different
stitching of that shirt.
Sewing thread consumption
Let's see below information for how much tread you need to stitch one inch fabric by different sewing
machine:
Machine Needs thread per inch stitch
Plain Machine- Single Needles = 2.75 inches
2 Needles P/M (Plain Machine) = 5.5 inches
3 Threads O/L (Over lock) Machine = 15 inches
Safety stitch = 20 inches
Flat lock Stitch = 32 inches
Chain stitches - 1 Needle = 11 inches

Kansai Machine - 2 Needle = 12 inches
Button Hole = 24 inches
Bar take Machine = 26 inches
Button Stitch of 2 Eyes (holes) = 3 inches
Button Stitch of 4 Eyes (holes) = 6 inches
Now, let's find out sewing thread consumption with example:
Q.1: Suppose, we want to make consumption on T-Shirt. T-shirt have 90 inches 3 thread over lock
stitches, 48 inches flat lock stitches, 18 inches 1 needle chain stitches, 16 inches single needle Plain
Machine Stitches, normal GSM is 150. Let's find out the consumption of sewing thread in meters ?
Solution: {(90 *3 thread O/L) + ( 48 * F/L) + (18 * 1 needle Chain stitches) + (16 * 1 needle P/M) + 10%
wastage }
= {(90 * 15) + (48 * 32) + (18 * 11) + (16 * 2.75) + 10%}
= { 1350 + 1536 + 198 + 44 + 15%}
= 3597 inches
= 3597 / 39.37 ( 1 meter = 39.37 inches)
= 91.37 meters
Q.2: Suppose, we need to buy thread cones with 4000 meters, Garments qty 2500 pcs, Per body
consumption 91.37 meters. Now let's see how many cones need to stitch 2500 pcs of garments ?
Solution: Per body consumption * Garments qty / per cone in meters
= 91.37 * 2500 / 4000

= 57 cone
Collar Length calculation for Polo shirt
Before we start to calculate collar measurement, garments merchandiser should find out the below
requirement information for calculating correct collar length;
 Neck width of the polo shirt
 Neck drop front
There are many ways to calculate collar length:
Option-1: Collar Length calculation = [{(Neck Width + Neck drop front) X 2 - 3} - 12.5%]
Suppose, A polo shirt has Neck width 13.75 cm and Neck drop front 6 cm. Now we need to find out
collar length of polo shirt.
Solution: Collar length calculation = [{(Neck width + Neck drop front ) X 2} - 3] - 12.5%
= [{( 13.75 + 6 ) X 2 }- 3 ] - 12.5%
= [39.5 - 3] - 12.5%
= 36.5 - 12.5%
= 31.94
= 31.5 cm
Finally, we have found the result, we need 31.5 cm length for this polo shirt. For bulk production,
merchandiser need to check with technician for smooth production.
Option-2: Collar Length calculation: {(Neck width + Neck drop front) x 3} / 2

= {(13.75 + 6) x 3 } / 2
=29.63
= 29.5 cm or 29 cm
Note that, for collar length calculation we always used minus tendency. Because we can't reduce collar
length after getting the final collar pcs. So, make sure that your collar length should be fit for the
garments. For bulk secure, don't forget to re-check with garments technician.
How To Calculate Zipper Length

Zipper is one of the common item in garments industry. Zipper teeth are usually made of brass,
aluminum, plastic or nylon which do not shrink when washed. Therefore, the zipper tapes must be made
of materials which do not shrink when washed otherwise the shrinkage will make the zipper fail to
function. In most cases, the zipper tapes are made of nylon or polyester which do not shrink and are
colorfast.
Zipper Length calculation for Garments
Zipper measurement calculation is the most important part for garments merchandiser. So, garments
merchandiser should more careful to calculate zipper measurement for bulk production. However,
zipper calculation is very easy but sometimes it becomes a matter of big trouble for us. Zipper depends
on fabrics and zipper properties. So, we need to take some idea about the body fabric shrinkage and
zipper tape. Today we will discuss about the front long zipper of sweat shirt and hoodies or as like that.
Zipper Calculation:
Let’s check out, how to find out zipper measurement by using formulas;
 If the garments body length measure from HPS, then
Formula: Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop ) - (2 to 3 %)
Suppose, A sweat shirt has body length 70 cm, front neck drop 7 cm and back neck drop is - 3 cm, Now
find out the zipper length?
Solution: Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop ) - 2 to 3%
= 70 - ( 7 + 3 ) - 2%
= 58.8 cm = 58.5 cm
Finally, we got the result, we need zipper length 58.5 cm
 If the garments body length measure from CB, then formula will be;
Formula: (Body length - Front neck drop) - (2 to 3 %)
Suppose, a hoodie has body length 67 cm, front neck drop 6 cm. Now find out the zipper length ?
Solution: (Body length - Front neck drop) - 2 %
= (67 - 6) - 2%
= 59.78 cm = 59.5 cm
Finally, we have got the result, we will use zipper length 59.5 cm
 If the garments have high neck and zipper goes up to high neck drop from bottom.
Formula: (Body length - Front neck drop) - (2 to 3 %) + Height of high neck
Suppose, A hoodie garments has body length 68 cm, front neck drop 6 cm, height of high neck 5 cm.
Now find out he zipper length?
Solution: (Body length - Front neck drop ) - 2 % + Height high neck
= (68 - 6 ) - 2% + 5
= 65.76 cm = 65.50 cm
CM Calculation For Knit Garments
In apparel industry, cost of making (CM) is an important factor for garment merchandisers. As its
importance in garments industry, every merchandiser should know the actual calculation method of it.
Otherwise, factory may fall in huge loss.
CM Calculation for Knit Garments
Full abbreviation of CM is Cost of Manufacture. In garments industries, CM means cost of manufacturing

for 12 garments. We must focus in below information to calculate CM (cost of manufacturing)-
 Total monthly expenditure (electricity bill, rent, water bill, transportation, commercial cost,
worker & stuff wages etc.) of the factory.
 Total running machine of the following month
 Total no of machine quantity to complete the layout of mentioned order items.

 Daily (8 hours/day) production target of the mention order items (excluding alter & reject).
 Total working days of the following month.
 Dollar conversation rate (if expenditure amount is rather then US dollar)
Suppose,
 Total monthly factory expense- 70,00,000 BDT
 Total running machine of the following month is - 180 machines
 Total working days of the following month- 26 days
 Daily factory expense: 70,00,000 / 26 = 269,230.77 BDT (Formula: total month factory expenses
/ total working days of the following month)
 Daily expense of 1 machine: 269,230.77 / 180 = 1495.73 BDT (Formula: daily factory expense /
total running machine of the following month )
 Total machine quantity to complete the layout - 18 machines
 Daily cost of the mention order item's layout: 18 X 1495.73 = 26,923 BDT (Formula: machine
quantity to complete layout X daily expenditure for 1 machine )
 Hourly production quantity of following mention order layout - 200 pcs
 Normal daily working hours- 8 hours
 So, daily production of the following layout: 200 X 8 = 1600 pcs (Formula: hourly production of
the layout X daily working hours )
 Cost of Manufacture for 1 pcs: 26,923 / 1600 = 16.83 BDT (Formula: daily cost of the layout /
daily production of the layout )
 So, CM (Cost of Manufacture for 12 garments ): 16.83 X 12 = 202 BDT (Formula: manufacturing
cost for 1 pcs X 12 )
 Dollar conversion rate: 1USD = 78 BDT
 So, CM (Cost of Manufacture for 12 garments ): 202 / 78 = US $2.5897
 Need to add 20-25% profit. So, after 20% added: $ 2.5897 + 0.5179 = 3.11 $ US
 So, Final CM = $ 3.11 US
CM (Cost Of Making):
Formula: Overhead machine cost X require machine / production quantity

= [{ monthly factory expenditure of following month / (total working days of the month X total
running machine of the following month) X (Number of machine to complete the layout / Production
quantity of the following layout) }]
= [{70,00,000 / (26 X 180) X 18) / 1800)}] X 12
= [{1495.73 X 18 / 1800}] X 12
= 14.96 X 12
= 179.49
= $2.30 /dzn [ 1$ = 78 BDT]
Another Simple Example Of CM (Cost Of Manufacture ):
After starting the new salary of Bangladesh, we calculate the CM of any items consider the overhead
sewing machine cost of 1200 BDT to 1400 BDT per day. For compliance factory we calculate per day
overhead sewing machine cost of 1800 BDT to 2100 BDT.
Q. Suppose, A compliance factory per day overhead of sewing machine is 2100 BDT. Total machine
quantity to complete the layout- 18 machines. Daily production comes from one existing layout- 1800
pcs. Dollar conversion rate is 1$ = 78 BDT. Now find out the CM for 12 pcs garments?
Solution:
CM cost = Overhead of sewing machine cost X total require machine to complete the layout /
production quantity X 12
= 2100 X 18 / 1800 X 12
= 21 X 12
= 252 BDT
= $ 3.23 / dzn [ 1$ = 78 BDT ]
Carton Consumption And Pricing
Carton is a very important factor in readymade garments industry. Every textile engineer (merchandiser)
should have clear and brief idea about it. Although, many garments merchandisers not have correct idea
about carton consumption. Basically carton box is made by ply board. Ply board can be 3 ply, 5 ply or 7
ply. It’s needed to deliver the finished goods to buyer without any damages. Buyer may complain if
there is any damage in the goods during transportation because of bag quality carton box. At present,
buyer ask to do busting test of carton box to ensure the quality of carton box. For kind information,
every carton boxes should have minimum two ply boards to insure product security.
Carton Consumption and Pricing
In terms of carton consumption means “consumption of ply board”. We know that, carton box is made
by using ply board. Before started to calculating ply board consumption or carton consumption, a
garments merchandiser should confirm the below information:
· Length of the carton box
· Width of the carton box
· Height of the carton box

By using the below formula, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate ply board consumption or
carton consumption in apparel industry. Let’s see the below equation with example;
Carton Consumption :
Formula of CBM (Cubic Meter) : Length X Width X Height / 10,00,000
Formula of carton measurement in square : ( Length + Width + Wastage) X ( Width + Height +

Wastage) X 2 / 10,000 X Carton quantity
Formula of carton consumption and costing: { (Length + Width) X (Width + Height)} X 2 +
Wastage percentage
Q.1: Suppose, a carton has Length 58 cm, Width 35 cm & Height 40 cm, total carton 200 pcs. Now find
out the cargo measurement for 200 cartons?
Solution: Length X Width X Height / 10,00,000 X Carton Qty
= 58 X 35 X 40 /10,00,000 X 200
= 16.24 CBM
Q.2: Suppose, a carton has 5 ply, Length 60 cm, Width 45 cm, Height 50 cm, total carton qty 150 pcs.
Now find out the carton measurement in square meter?
Solution: ( Length + Width + Wastage ) X ( Width + Height + Wastage) X 2 / 10,000 X Carton qty
= (60 + 45 + 5) X ( 45 + 50 + 5) X 2 /10,000 X 150
= 110 X 100 X 2 / 10,000 X 150
= 330 square meter
(Note: If you don't want to add wastage, then avoid wastage value. For safety purpose, should be add
wastage )
Q.3: Suppose, a 5 ply carton's per square (100 X 100) meter's rate is USD 0.85. Carton Length is 58 cm,
Width 26 cm , Height 40 cm. Now find out the carton price?
Suppose: ( Length + Width + Wastage ) X ( Width + Height + Wastage ) X 2 / 10,000 X Price
= ( 58 + 26 + 5) X ( 26 + 40 + 5) X 2 /10,000 X $ 0.85
= 89 X 71 X 2 / 10,000 X $ 0.85
= $1.074 / per pcs
Q.4: Suppose, a 7 ply carton Length is 58 cm (0.58 meter), Width 35 cm (0.35 meter), Height 40 cm (0.40
meter), price $0.90 per square. Now find the price per carton?
Suppose: {(Length + Width) X (Width + Height) } X 2 + Wastage Percentage
= {( 0.58 + 0.35) X (0.35 + 0.40)} X 2 + 5% [ 1 cm = 1/100 meter ]
= { 0.93 X 0.75 } X 2 + 5%
= 1.4675 square meter
= 1.4675 X $0.90 [1 square meter = $0.90]
= $1.320/ carton
Types Of Fabric Consumption For Knit
In apparel industry, fabric consumption is the common term for a garments merchandiser. In this
industry, most of the time profit or loss depends on the total consumption of fabric in an order. So, bulk
fabric consumption must be calculated correctly before start bulk cutting of an order. For making profit
from an order, we have to reduce fabric wastage in bulk and make an accurate consumption of an order.
As we know, fabric is one of the most important part in garments costing and represent almost 70% of
total product manufacturing cost.
Basic information relevant to consumption
1. Measurement with technical spec.
2. Style description
3. Fabrics description
4. Fabrics width / weight

5. Washing shrinkage if any
What Is Consumption?
In the garments trade, consumption means quality of raw materials with a view to determine the price
of a garment. In order to calculate the above quantity how much fabric, sewing thread, zipper, button
and other accessories are required to produce a garment up to the exporting is called consumption.
Internationally fabrics having five types of width as in: 35 inch – 45 inch – 50 inch – 55 inch – 60 inch.
Generally, it is visible that after consumption of fabrics, we have to perform some washing brushing or
finishing treatment to develop fabric quantity.
In the circumstances stated during fabric consumption we should consume fabric excluding 1-2 inch
from the fabric width. Otherwise in some cases buyer or factory authority may encounter a great loss or
may face difficulties. Consumption formula and other rules are shown below. Remember that if
consumption of a garment of different sizes is required at a time, we have to figure out a consumption
of the one size making an average of all sizes for shortening the time consumption.
Types Of Consumption Calculation System:
The quantity of fabric which is required to produce a garment is called consumption. Whatever quantity
of fabric is required to produce a garment. We can know it through marker planning and mathematical
system. We can calculate and determine the consumption of fabric by the following two systems:
1. Marker planning system
2. Mathematical system
Marker planning system:
In the system mentioned here studying the range of size, following six pcs of six size can be stored out
from size range. As in XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL. Besides these we can choose three pcs of three size or twelve
pcs of twelve size for our convenience. It depends on our IQ and the size range, thereafter paper pattern
can be made by grading to the above garments as per measurement sheet. Having made the paper
pattern, it should have to lay each parts of the paper pattern on a marker paper of similar fabric width.
After marking the paper pattern if we measure marker paper to length wise, we will find an aggregate
consumption of six pieces of garment. If the aggregate is divided by six, we will find a consumption of
one-piece garment. As such we will find a consumption of one dozen garments from the above system
calculations. You can check bellow post for your easy understand:
Mathematical system:
Whatever is the fabric consumption of a garment or whatever quantity of fabric is required to produce a
garment is measured by mathematical system. Mathematical system is system of approximate
estimation. Consumption of a sample garment or consumption as per measurement sheet is calculated
mathematically by measuring the area of length and width of each parts of each pcs of garment.
Prepare Of Price Quotation For Buyers
Prepare of price quotation is the most important part in apparel industry. It’s very important for both
buyer and seller. Manufacturer or exporter should be more careful, when they are going to apply the
price quotation of the product. Here manufacturers of products are the seller of the products. Price
quotation is the business proposal which is made by seller for the interested buyer who wants to buy
fashionable goods as specific prices for certain terms and conditions. Manufacturer of the products or
sellers always likes to offer better opportunity for his buyer. Most important, the quotation letter should
contain all the information which is required for understanding all the points of dealing.
For price quotation letter, few important point should be follow before apply the letter of price
quotation for garments products. They are-
 Should concern type of quotation.
 The quality of product offered for sale
 Per unit selling price of the garments products.
 Total value of the products
 Payment mode like cash or credit, cash discount (penalty) or any other allowances
 Shipment mode like Sea, Air or Sea-air & TOD (Time of delivery), Place
 Labeling & packing details
 Full instruction of insurance
 List of country destination and documentation details
In additional, there may be lots of points should be maintained in the price quotation of garments
products. Actually, additional requirement depends on buyer requirement. At last, we will see a simple
sample format of price quotation letter.
An introductory sample letter to a prospective buyer:
"Dear Jon,
XYZ Apparels Ltd. Manufactures a wide variety of ready-made garments and is already exporting to
major buyers of the USA, Canada, UK, France and Germany.
We are interested in expanding our trade in Japan and believe that your company already imports the
line of products that we produce.
We are enclosing a copy of our brochure and price list for examination at your convenience and we
would be pleased to forward samples of any item of garment that may be interest to you.
Thanking you and looking forward to your positive response.
Best regards
Name
Marketing Manager / Merchandiser "
As we know, price quotation is the most important factor in apparel industry for merchandiser. Price
quotation is the mutual agreement between buyer and manufacture or seller. There are many types of
quotation considered for exporting products during price quotation. Those are in the following:
 LOCO: The lowest quotation of price is called LOCO. It means on the spot. When buyer will carry
his product or goods from seller or manufacture factory to own factory or warehouse. In this
case, all carrying cost will be bearded by the buyer.
 FAS: Means Free Along Side Ship. It determines that seller or manufacture will bear the carrying
cost from his warehouse to the ship and rest of the destination cost will bear buyer. That means
buyer will provide the expenses from ship loading to the buyer warehouse.
 FOW: FOW means Free On Wagon. It determines that manufacture or seller will bear carrying
cost from his warehouse to the nearest railway station and rest of the carrying cost will bear by
the buyer.
 CIFE: Full meaning of CIFF is Cost, Insurance, Freight and Exchange. Manufacturing cost,
insurance charge, carrying cost and exchange cost will be included in price quotation of the
product.
 CWO: It means Cash with Order. It determines that buyer will send money along with the order.
In this case, order will not be executed without receiving the order.
 COD: Means Cash On delivery which is determine that buyer will pay cash after receiving the
desired order goods to the desired destination.
 FOR: It means Free On Rail. It determines that the seller or manufacture will bear all expenses
from his own warehouse to the railway station. Also seller or manufacture will bear the loading
cost and rest of the cost will bear by the buyer.
In apparel industry, there are mainly four systems of calculation for price quotation which are as under:
1. FOB (Free on Board)
2. CFR / C & F (Cost of Freight)
3. CIF (Cost, Insurance & Freight)
4. CMT (Cut make and trims)
1. FOB (Free On Board):
FOB means ‘free on board’. Now most of the garments industry price quoted on FOB. It determines that
seller or manufacture will bear all costs which required reaching the goods from his own warehouse to
the board of ship at the port of shipment. That means manufacture or seller will include the cost of
fabric, accessories, cost of making, overhead, C&F and transportation cost (from factory warehouse to
shipment port) for making the price of product quotation. Here also seller will be bearded product
loading expenses. Exporter does not bear the cost of freight of ship or air. It is buyer (importer) who
himself bears the freight of ship or air.
2. C&F (Cost of Freight):
CFR / C & F means ‘Cost of Freight’. That means
FOB (Cost) + Freight = C & F
In the case ship or air freight is carried by the exporter while quoting price, the exporter quotes price a
bit higher than FOB. The whole responsibility including the sending of goods to the selected port of the
importer is shouldered by the exporter ship or air. Freight may vary from place to place and shippers to
shippers. Also note that, seller will not bear the insurance cost in this quotation.
3. CIF (Cost Insurance & Freight):
CIF means cost insurance & freight. In this case in additional to the bearing of freight the cost of
insurance is also born by the exporter or manufacture. The exporter, while quoting CIF price, quotes
much higher than C&F value. That means
C&F + insurance = CIF
Normally we can add 1-2% insurance charge with CIF price.

4. CMT (Cut Make and Trims)
CMT means ‘Cut make and trims’. Making cost, accessories and trimmings cost of garments has included
in the quotes of garments which is provided by seller or manufacturer. In this case, buyer provides all
the required raw materials to the manufacturer and exporter gets only the making cost, accessories and
trimming cost of the product.
During the fixation of FOB price following notes are to be followed carefully:
 Cost of fabric/Doz. Garments (Woven/Knit) or cost of yarn /Doz. Garments (in case of sweater)
 Cost of accessories / Doz. Garments
 Cost of transportation from factory to sea port or airport
 Clearing and forwarding cost
 Overhead cost
 Commission/Profit
The notes above are applicable in case of sending goods aboard on FOB basis.
How To Calculate Carton CBM & CBF
In garments sector, it’s a known term for all merchandiser. Freight forwarder charges the freight cost on
the basis of CBM. CBM means cubic meter. To find out accurate CBM, it will help for merchandiser to
reduce shipping cost. When cargo has FCL (Full container Load) then we have to pay the freight charge
in full container load basis, if the cargo has LCL (Less container Load) then we have to pay the freight
charge in less container load basis.
Calculate carton CBM & CBF for Garments
Before starting the CBM, we should find the below information at first;
 Carton length;
 Carton width;
 Carton height;
 And carton quantity for an order;
We need to use centimeter to find out the CBM. If we found Length, Width and height in 'Inch' then we
need to convert into "centimeter" by multiplying 2.54 ( we know 1 inch = 2.54 cm).
Example Of CBM Calculation With Formula :
Formula: Length (cm) X Width (cm) X Height (cm) / 10,00,000
Suppose, A carton have length 22.845 inches, width 15.75 inches and height 15.75 inches. Now find out
the CBM for 150 cartons ?
Solution:
 Length 22.845 inches = So, 22.845 X 2.54 = 58 cm [ 1 inch = 2.54 cm]
 Width 15.75 inches = So, 15.75 X 2.54 = 40 cm
 Height 15.75 inches = So, 15.75 X 2.54 = 40 cm
Formula: Length X Width X Height / 10,00,000 X 150 [ 1 CBM = 10,00,000 square cm ]
= 58 X 40 X 40 /10,00,000 X 150
= 13.92 CBM
Finally we know that, we need 13.92 CBM cargo for 150 cartons.
Example Of CBF (Cubic Feet) Calculation With Formula:
Formula: Length (inch) X Width (inch) X Height (inch) / 1728
Suppose, carton have length is 14 inches, width 12 inches and height 8 inches. Total quantity 200 pcs.
Now, find out the total CBF (cubic feet)?
Solution:
Formula: Length (inch) X Width (inch) X Height (inch) / 1728 X carton qty
= 14" X 12" X 8" / 1728 X 200 [ 1 CBF = 1728 square inches]
= 1344 / 1728 X 200
= 155.55 CBF
Finally, we have found the result, we need 155.55 CBF for 200 cartons.
Merchandiser Role Between Buyer & Seller
A garments merchandiser is the key person in ready-made garments industry. Where

merchandiser plays an important role from its order receiving to shipment. Merchandiser is the bridge
between the industry and the buyer. Merchandiser is the responsible person to make the product and
export the goods on time. So, he has to look after the raw materials which are required to find the
goods, making the garments, finishing the goods, documentation and finally shipping the goods. The
main job of a merchandiser is to co-ordinate with the entire department in the office (like stores,
cutting, production, finishing etc.) as well as the buyers.
 Merchandiser’s role is to build up relationship with buyers and acts as a seller
 Merchandiser plays a vital role in his organization in a sense that the bears more responsibility
than others in regards of order execution
 He represents factory as a buyer
 He represents buyer as a seller
 He inspects quality as buyer from buyers’ point of view
 He negotiates a price for the sellers
 He looks at the deal from seller’s point of view
 He looks after the business so as to develop more in future
 He tries to offer the deal more competitive by not compromising the quality
 His object is to satisfy the buyer to progress more in future business
 His aim is to impress the buyer by means of:
**Right product
**Right quality
**Right quantity
**Right time
**Undamaged condition
Job Description And Job Analysis Of Merchandisers And Merchandising Department
 To prepare price quotation of different inquiry letters as per buyers’ requirements
 To develop samples as per buyers’ requirements
 To submit samples as per buyers’ requirements
 To negotiate price with buyers

 To confirm price with buyers
 To receive purchase order sheet from buyers
 To prepare and issue pro-forma invoice for buyers in order that buyer can open master L/C
 To receive master or export L/C from buyers
 To source and select garment factory for bulk production
 To make production plan for execution of purchase orders
 To hand over purchase order file to the selected factory, related sections and persons.
 To collect the color swatch and trims & accessories from buyers and develop them from vendors
or from own units
 To communicate buyers with all updates about latest production process and developments
 To ensure goods delivery on time with buyers
 To take approval from buyers for style sample, fit sample, pre-production sample and
accessories sample for bulk production
 To prepare yarn, finished fabric and accessories booking order sheets for bulk production and
distribute to related sections and related persons
 To prepare costing break down sheet and put up the respective buyers’ order files
 To follow up, monitor and coordinate the purchase order until shipment
 To receive payment of L/C against shipment of goods from buyers
 To earn profit by exporting garments from abroad
 Merchandisers has to report their activities to the managing director of their respective
Commonly Used Knit Fabrics For Garments
Actually knitting fabric can be made by hand or by using a machine. Presently, knitting machine used
more than hand knitting. There are variety of knitted fabrics available in the market. In apparel industry,
knitted fabrics are used for producing knitted garments like T-Shirt, Polo shirt, Sweater, Sweatshirt,
children’s wear etc. For producing different type of knit fabrics, mills used different type of construction
& specification. We already discussed about basic structure of knit fabrics.
Now we will discuss the following list of names of knit fabrics which are commonly used to produce knit
garments:
1. Plain/ single/ jersey knit
2. Pique knit / Lacoste knit

3. Interlock knit
4. Rib knit
5. Terry knit
6. Fleece knit
7. Jacquard knit
8. Yarn dyed stripe knit
9. Feeder stripe knit
10. Engineered stripe knit
Plain / Single / Jersey knit:
People call it jersey knit. A weft knit process producing a plain, flat-surfaced knitted fabric designed with
a separate face and back. A single-faced knitted fabric designed by an interlinking of stitches in the same
direction on the face and a series of semicircular loops produced on the reverse or back. Even-patterned
loops are produced in the lengthwise direction on the face of the fabric and even patterned, wavy loops
in the crosswise direction on the reverse. Jersey knit process utilizes both single and double yarn
construction.
Pique Knit:
Pique Knit fabric manufacturing by weft technique. Basically, Pique fabrics used for Men’s polo shirt &
women’s polo shirt. It’s also used for manufacturing sportswear.
Interlock stitch knit:
A weft knit process producing a compound fabric. Two separate 1x1 rib fabrics are interlocked or inter
knitted to form one cloth. The two rib course are defined as one interlock course, since together they
produce one stitch in every wale. Interlock stitch knit process utilizes single yarns in the knitting process.
Same appearance on face and back and double faced. When needle heads are facing with each other,
then it is called interlock gating, that means interlock fabric.
RIB knit:
A weft knit process producing a double faced fabric. Rib knit is made with two sets of needles producing
alternate plain and purl stitches that join in opposite directions in the lengthwise direction and produce
separate vertical ribs on both sides of the fabric. Rib knit process produces high and low areas with
stitches alternating up and over and down and under creating a corrugated effect. There are 1 by 1 rib, 2
by 2 ribs, 3 by 1 rib, 5 by 2 ribs and so on. You count the number of ribs in front and on back to
determine what it is.
Terry knit:
A woven or knit uncut loop structure produced as single faced with loop formation on face and back.
Size, shape and density of loop formation may vary. It looks like terry towel.
Fleece knit:
One side looks like jersey, the other side heavily brushed. Also note that, the inside of fleece fabrics
brush can be light or heavy, buyer will confirm their requirement of brush. Fleece fabric’s contraction
can be 100% cotton, 80% cotton 20% poly etc (As per buyer requirement). Actually buyer will confirm
which contraction used to make the fabric. Also note that, normally fleece fabric GSM is higher, than the
normal other knitting fabrics. Please note when knitted fabrics are finished by the mill, it is usually rolled
on a tube with tension.
Therefore, when you unroll the fabric on the cutting table, you should not apply the marker on and cut it
right away, you should let it relax for a few hours, or preferably over night to check if the length has
become shorter when the tension is gone. If may surprise you that the length or the width or both have
shrunk 5 to 7% on the cutting table. Just imagine, if you cut the fabrics without relaxing then you many
end up getting your garments undersized. The degree of such shrinkage is contingent on the tension it
was given prior.
Jacquard knit:
Jacquard knit is a system of producing a patterned knit fabric combining the jacquard system. The
system is the individual control of the selection of the needles to produce the design or pattern utilizing.
 Punch cards or programmed techniques similar to woven Jacquard fabric
 Electronic or electromagnetic devices
 Can be produced by warp or weft type method of knitting fabric
 Produces single or multicolored designs and patterns
 Designed with a flat or raised surface
 Can be hard finished or smooth texture or brushed for napped finish

 Produces jacquard blister knit, jacquard jersey knit and jersey knit variations, jacquard rib knit
and rib knit variations.
Yarn dyed stripe knit:
Generally, we collect the yarn from yarn supplier or spinning mills then we produce the fabric from grey
yarn that is called grey fabric. After that, we dye the fabric in any color as per buyer requirement. But
after collecting the yarn from yarn supplier or spinning mills & send the yarn for dying purpose as per
buyer requirement color. On the other hand, we can collect direct dyed yarn from spinning mill. That
means we dyed the yarn before produce the knit fabric, that is called yarn dyed fabrics.
In making color knitted fabrics, we usually would use the following methods to color them:
 Piece dye: for solid colors
 Yarn dye: for horizontal stripes
 Printing: for printed designs
For piece dyed solid colors and prints, the process of manufacture is pretty much the same as woven
fabrics. However, on yarn dyed stripes it is important we know the following:
Feeder stripe knit:
This means you feed the knitting machine with yarn of different colors and let the machine knit as
knitting solid color fabrics. The knitting machine has a capability for 108 cones of yarn. Now you have
inserted 8 cones of black yarn in to it, with the balance 100 cones white yarn. After getting start knitting
you will find out that, there is a black horizontal stripe within 2”.
From the above example you can understand that within the 108 spaces, you have inserted 8 cones of
black color yarn to form a horizontal stripe design that you have worked out. You can also see that the
size of repeat is about 2”. If this is a fine yarn used, it could be smaller than 2”, if it is a thick yarn used, it
can be bigger than 2”. There is no limit about the number of colors you can use within the 2” repeat. For
example, you can use 108 different colors if you wish. There are knitting machines of more than 108
cones and machines of less than 108 cones. So, the 2” repeat is a little flexible.
Engineered stripe knit:

When the size of the repeat of the stripe you need is bigger that 2” it is beyond the feeder stripe
method can do and you will have to use “Engineered stripe” method to make this knitted fabric. In this
engineered stripe method, the machine is set to change threads at certain time to from a big repeat.
This way the repeat can be of almost any size. However, the price of engineered striped fabric is
substantially higher than the normal stripe price. Therefore, as garment merchandisers, when we get
the artwork from buyer & artwork showing, for example, a 2-3/4” repeat, we should check with the
knitting mill to find out how close we can get the repeat to 2-3/4”, or check with the buyer if they could
let you shrink it down from 2- ¾“ to 2 ½“ before you choice to engineered stripe method. However, if
the repeat given in the artwork is 14” and buyer don’t want to change it in any way, for example, then
you should use engineered stripe method without any choice.
Sea Freight Calculation System For Garments
Though almost garment orders are placed by buyers on FOB (Free On Board) basis, the buyers to pay
freight at the shipping destination, it is still necessary for the agent to know how to calculate sea freight
and air freight the merchandise costs per Doz. If you are required to sell on CIF (Cost Insurance &
Freight) basis, (the shipper or agency to prepay freight at the shipping port) you will need to calculate
the freight accurately for your own costing. There are two systems use for calculating freight cost. They
are-
1. Sea Freight
2. Air Freight
Sea freight:
Sea freight is generally varied based on volume how much per CBM (Cubic meter) very rarely by weight
as “density cargo”. In fact, ANRRA (Asia North American Eastbound Rate Agreement) has designed the
freight tariff based on the usual value of the type of goods, then the usual weight of them, taking into
consideration that for low value merchandise they should give a low freight rate in order to make it
possible for the importers to buy goods overseas. However, for high value merchandise, they should
charge a high freight rate as it is believed that the buyer can afford to pay more on freight. They have
designed the freight tariff in such a way that everybody can do business and there is sufficient profit for
the shipping lines. The following is an example to show you the idea:
XYZ Furniture: (Low value goods)
USD 2975.00 for a 40 feet container to East Coast (USA)
Garments (not silk) (Medium value goods)
USD 5295.00 for a 40 feet container to East coast (USA)
Silk Garments (High value goods)
USD 9355.00 for a 40 feet container to East coast (USA)

From the above you will see that for the same 40 feet container the shipping line change very different
rates.
Nowadays, it is very common to ship goods by containers and pay the freight for the whole container,
even if you sometime do not have the exact volume of merchandise to fill up the whole container. The
reason of this is:
Suppose, the shipping line charges US 160 per CBM if you ship goods by the CBM as loose cargo. But, if
you ship goods by the container, they charge you about US 350 per 40 feet container (these are
approximate rate for shipment from the South East to USA port, but they vary from each of the South
East countries and East of West coasts of the United States). However, the above example can give you
the general relationship between the rates of loose cargo, 20 feet and 40 feet containers, the following
will show this point more clearly:
Note: Figures used in example are not the exact freight rates as they change from time to time, but this
is the concept commonly used.
a. A 20 Feet Container Has The Following Inside Measurement:
Length: 228” x Width: 84” x Height: 94”
228” x 84” x 94” by multiplying 2.54 (as we know 1” = 2.54 cm)
579.12 cm X 213.36 cm X 238.76 cm by dividing 100 (we know 1m = 100 cm)
5.7912 m X 2.1336 m X 2.3876 m = 29.50 CBMS
If you want to more about CBM calculation, then check the below article;
How to calculate carton CBM & CBF?
However, a 20 feet container has a capacity of 29.5 CBM, but when you ship goods packed in cartons or
wooden crates, it can only hold about 27 CBM as there will be gaps or spaces wasted. If the rate of a 20
feet container is $3700, then your average rate per CBM is about $137 (Total container cost / Maximum
hold CBM in container = $3700 / 27). A 20 feet container which means 20’ x 7’ x 8’ but above is the
inside dimension.
b. A 40 Feet Container Has The Following Inside Measurements:

Length: 474” x Width: 84” x Height: 94”
474” x 84” x 94” by multiplying 2.54 (as we know 1” = 2.54 cm)
1203.96cm X 213.36cm X 238.76cm by dividing 100 (we know 1m = 100 cm)
12.0396m X 2.1336m X 2.3876m = 61.33 CBMS
40 feet container which means 40’ x 7’ x 8’, but above is the inside dimension
Therefore, a 40 feet container cartons or wooden creates, it will hold only about 54 CBM. If the rate of
the 40 feet container is $5500 then the average rate per CBM is about $102 (Total container cost /
Maximum hold CBM in container = $5500 / 54).
It is noted that there is a bigger container than the 40 feet high cube. The inside measurements are:
Length: 474” x Width: 84” x Height: 106” (12” higher)
474” x 84” x 106” by multiplying 2.54 (as we know 1” = 2.54cm)
1203.96cm X 213.36cm X 269.24cm by dividing 100 (1m = 100cm)
12.0396m X 2.1336m X 2.6924m = 69.16 CBMS
40 feet Hi-cube container which means 40’ x 7’ x 9,’ but above is inside dimension.
A 40 feet Hi-cube container is about 12% higher than a 40 feet regular container, and the cost of a 40
feet Hi-cube is about 10 to 12% higher, so the rate per CBM is about the same. There is very little
advantage in using a 40 feet Hi-cube as the rate per CBM is concerned. However, there is great
advantage when you have the amount of cargo which exceeds the capacity of a 40 feet container only
by 5 to 8 CBM.
c. If You Ship Goods As Loose Cargo, The Rate Is About $160 / CBM:
From the above you will see that it is most convenient to use 40 feet containers if at all possible.
However, it is not always possible for the buyers to buy goods with the quantity adjusted to fill the
containers. But if the quantity ordered is so big that it take a few 40 feet containers to ship at different
time, then the shipper should plan the shipments carefully so that the right amount of goods is shipped
each time to fill a 40 feet container, because the saving in using 40 feet container is so big that it is
worth your time and effort to work to achieve it for your buyer.
Example: one Doz. of Men’s stand up collar shirt is about 0.037 CBM.
1. If you ship this shirt as loose cargo,
0.037 x 160 = $ 5.92/Doz. sea freight
2. If you ship this shirt in a 20 feet container (full)
0.037 x 137 = $ 5.069 / Doz. sea freight
3. if you ship this shirt in a 40 feet container, or a 40 feet Hi-cubic container (full)
0.037 x 102 = $ 3.774 / Doz. sea freight
It is very clear to the above, the good pain of shipping can save your customer a great deal of money.
As most shippers are shipping goods by the container, we may form an opinion that as long as we pay
for the whole container we may fill up the container regardless of the weight of the merchandise.
However, this is not true, the usual weight limits of the containers are as follows:
 20 feet container weight limit: 16,300 kg
 40 feet container weight limit: 19,500 kg
Actually the weight mentioned above are weight limits as guidelines for you only. The real limits are the
following:
 20 feet container 18148 kg including the weight of the container
 40 or 45 feet container 25400 kg including the weight of the container
The following are the weights of the containers:
 20 feet steel: 1960 to 2350 kg
 40 feet steel: 3390 to 4190 kg
 40 feet aluminum: 2450 to 3050 kg
 45 feet aluminum / steel: 3925 to 4500 kg
Goods like ingot and dry cell batteries can easily exceed the limits. When you ship this type of goods,
you may fill the container half and reach the weight limit. For your information, the weight limits are set
not so much for the capacity of the ship, it is for the loading and unloading equipment, and the road
safety regulations (bridges also) when the container gets ashore. If you ship very heavy goods as loose
cargo because the size of the shipment is very small, the shipping line will charge you by weight or by
volume whichever is higher.
Poly Bag Consumption And Costing
Poly bag is the most common and important item in apparel industry. Normally we used different kinds
of bag to pack the goods. We packed the garments with poly bag before insert in a carton for shipment.
In apparel industry, we use one poly for one garment, we called it single poly and insert several single
polys in a big poly bag, we called it “blister poly”.
Poly bag calculation is important part for garments merchandiser. Commonly we known as polythene.
Poly bag has used to protect from dust or dirt, moisture. In garments industries, maximum company has
used those poly bag, material used PP (polypropylene), PE (polyethylene), LDPE (low density
polyethylene) & HDPE (high density polyethylene) etc. Worldwide, gauge is used most system of
counting poly bag's thickness.
Before starting the poly bag consumption, a garments merchandiser should confirm the following
information at first;
 Poly bag length in inch.
 1/2 flap of poly bag (because flap is single layer & length, width of poly bag is double layer)
 Poly bag width in inch
 Thickness of poly bag in gauge
 Number of print on the poly bag (print means text, logo, warning etc.)
 Polymer rate of per lbs. (pound) of the following poly bag (It may PP, PE or LDPE etc. )
Formula: For 1,000 pcs poly bags in KGs = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300}
Q.1: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 29 cm, Half flap 5 cm, Width 26 cm & poly thickness 160 gauge.
Now find out weight of 1000 pcs poly bags?
Solution: Poly bags in KGs = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300 }
= {(29 + 2.5) X 26 X 160 / 3300}
= {31.5 X 26 X 160 / 3300}
= 39.709 KGs for 1000 pcs

Note: We used half flap during calculation because flap is single layer & length, width of poly bag is
double layer.
Q.2: Suppose, per pcs poly weight is 0.0397 KGs, polymer price 1 lbs (pound) is $0.35. Now find out the
price of per pcs poly?
Solution: Per pcs poly weight X Polymer price
= 39.709 / 1000 X $0.35

= 0.0397 X 2.2 X $0.35 [ 1 kg = 2.2 lbs ]
= $0.03056 /pcs
Q.3: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 30 cm, half flap 5 cm, width 25 cm & poly thickness 150 gauge,
1 lbs polymer price is $0.35. Now find out the cost 1 pcs poly bag?
Solution:
Poly bag cost = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300 / 1000 X Price}
= {(30 + 2.5) X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}
= {32.5 X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}

= 0.0369 KGs X $0.35
= 0.0369 X 2.2 X $0.35 [ 1 kg = 2.2 lbs ]
= $0.0284 / pcs
Difference Of Garments Marketing And Merchandising
Having produced garment products, marketing personnel start marketing first. They introduce the
products to the potential buyers and encourage and convince the buyers to buy the products. If the
buyers are interested, marketing personnel submit their price and they take their positive consent with
orders.
Where there marketing finished, merchandising is started. Marketing is limited up to introduction of the
products and its company to buyers but merchandising is limited from purchase order receiving to
shipment. After being finished marketing job, marketing personnel introduce the buyers to the
merchandisers. Merchandisers receive purchase order, make plan, develop product line, monitor
productions process, ensure goods delivery on time, calculation consumption, prepare costing sheet, put
up the buyer’s order file. If there are no marketing personnel or if the marketing personnel are no so
qualified or skilled in marketing in that case merchandising personnel make both marketing and
merchandising to survive the company.
What Is Garments Merchandising ?
The “Garments Merchandising” is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term
merchandising has been derived from the merchandise. As a noun merchandise means products that
are bought and sold and as a verb merchandise means to sell and buy products.
The term “Merchandising” may be defined as: A person who sells and buys the goods, specifically for
export purposes. Garments merchandising means taking purchase order from buyers, buying raw
materials from vendors say fabrics and accessories, producing garments from factories, maintaining
required quality levels, getting in touch with buyers with all updates, following up the production
process until shipment and exporting the garments within schedule time. Garments merchandising
means the technique of selling and buying garment related products of a company in the best possible
way. From the above definitions, we can say that a person involved in garments merchandising needs a
wide range of knowledge and skills to perform his job successfully. The job itself is technical and general
as well.
When an export order is placed to a merchandiser, he/she has to schedule the following main functions
to execute the export order perfectly on time.
 Yarn consumption calculations
 Fabric consumption calculations
 Accessories consumption calculations (e.g. sewing thread, label, button, interlining, zipper,

elastic, hang tag, poly, carton etc.)
 Sourcing of yarns
 Sourcing of fabrics
 Sourcing of accessories
 Possible date of arrival of fabrics and accessories in the garments factory
 Costing
 Garments production planning
 Pre-shipment inspection schedule
 Shipping documents
All the main functions, mentioned above are important but the locating of fabric & accessories are most
important as because there are many technical parameters involved in specification in this area. In most
collection of fabric for the garments to be made is a major problem. To secure a fabric we should clearly
specify the technical specification of the fabric during placing a fabric supply order.
Button Linear And Counting For Garments
Button is one of the common accessories in apparel industry. Also most important part to optimize
button measurement correctly for garment merchandisers. As its importance in readymade garments,
improper button size can turn the garments into faulty garments.
What Is Ligne?
Ligne means “Line” which became from French word that became the standard reference used by
German button manufacturers in the early eighteenth century. Ligne is shortened with letter of “L”
which is the internationally recognized standard. To measure diameter of buttons, usually we use liner
unit (1/40 inch). Available button sizes are: 13L, 14L, 15L, 16L, 17L, 18L, 20L, 22L, 24L, 26L, 27L, 28L, 30L,
32L, 36L, 40L, 42L, 44L, 46L, 48L, 54L, 60L.
Button Linear and counting for garments
To find out the button line, we should to know below measurement for easy understand:
 1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm = 25.4 mm
 1 Ligne = 0.635 mm
 1 Dozen = 12 pcs
 12 Dozens = 1 Gross
 12 Gross = 1 GG
 1 GG = 1728 pcs
Let's find out the button line/ligne with simple example:
Formula: Button ligne = Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or Button Dia in mm X 1 / 0.635
Q.1: Suppose, Button length (dia) is 8 mm, Now figure out the button ligne for 8mm?
Solution:
Button Ligne = Button Dia in mm / 0.635
= 8 / 0.635
= 12.59 ligne = 12 L [ L = Ligne ]
Q.2: Find out the button ligne for 12mm button dia?
Solution:
Button Ligne = Button dia in mm X 1 / 0.635
= 12 X 1 / 0.635
= 18.897 ligne
= 18 L [ L = Ligne ]
Q.3: Shirt has 6 buttons, order quantity total 4320 pcs. Now find out total button quantity in GG?
Solution:
Button quantity in GG = per shirt button X total quanty / 1728
= 6 X 4320 / 1728 [ 1 GG = 1728 pcs ]
= 15 GG
Note: We need to additional quantity (minimum 5%) in case of shortage due to defective or damage in
bulk production.
Basic Structure Of Knit Fabrics
Knitted fabrics are an alternative to the woven or loom fabrics. These fabrics are stretchable, soft and
quick to recover from wrinkles, unlike, woven fabrics knitted fabrics would not become stiff or board
even if you make it heavy. All knitted fabrics (except warp knit) are stretchable in both directions
horizontal and vertical, but more stretchable horizontally. Knit fabric structures are formed through the
process of interlocking loops or forming loops with one or more yarn in preceding and succeeding rows,
knit fabrics are produced by hand or on a variety of knitting machines with one or more needles of
different types.
Variation of knit fabrics may be achieved by adding deleting or combining any one or more of the
following:
 Content of fiber – natural, man-made, blend or combination
 Type of fiber – filament or staple
 Size or denier of yarn – fine, lofted or bulked
 Type of yarn – twisted, textured, novelty or specialty
 Color of yarn – one color or multi colored

 Type and capability of knitting machines
 Attachments used on knitting machines
 Type and quality of needles
 Size, thickness and length of needles
 Formation of needles – inoperative or selectively operative
 Number and spacing of needle sets
 Size of stitches
 Formation and pattern of stitches
 Number or threading of guide bars
 Finishing processes applied to yarn or finished goods
Any variation of the above will affect the appearance, texture, performance expectation and weight of
the fabric.
Knit fabrics are classified and named with regard to the
 Structure of fabrics
 Method or type of production or construction
 Type of machine used for its construction
 Number of guide bars on a machine
According to the basic structure of knit fabrics, knit fabrics are classified into two categories:
A. Warp knit fabric and
B. Weft knit fabric
A. Warp Knit Fabrics:
This is a special kind of knit fabric which has warp treads (but no weft threads). This fabric has little or
no stretch ability like woven fabric. It is called knit, because it is constructed by needles like other knits
fabric and it has no weft threads. It feels like woven fabric and wears like woven fabric, warp knit fabrics
are produced by a system of interlocking loops in a length wise direction. Fabric is produced by several
parallel yarns that form one stitch for each yarn in each course. Each stitch in a course is made by
different yarn. All the needles move up to at the same time to make the stitch. The stitches are
produced in each course simultaneously. Warp knit structures as following kinds:
 Milanese knit
 Raschel knit
 Ketten raschel knit

 Tricot knit
Milanese knit: Milanese knit fabric is more expensive than tricot fabric. It’s also stronger, stable and
smoother than tricot fabric. Milanese fabric stitches very similar to tricot fabric. It can be identified by
face fabric having a fine vertical rib and the opposite having a diagonal structure.
Raschel knit: Raschel knit do not stretch significantly and used for coats, jackets and dresses. Raschel
knitting is done by heavy yarns and usually has a complex lacelike pattern.
Kitten rashel knit: Kitten rashel knit is fine with good elasticity. Kitten rashel knit also known as chain
rashel.
Tricot Knit: Tricot knit fabric is very soft. It is used for verity of fabric weights and design. There are many
types of tricot fabric- plain tricot, satin tricot, mesh tricot etc. Tricot fabric used in shirts, blouses and
dresses.
B. Weft Knit Fabrics:
These fabrics are produced by a system of interlocking loops in a cross wise direction. The loops are
made in horizontal courses with each course built on top of the other. All the needles operate
independently of one another and all the stitches in the course are made by one yarn. These fabrics are
usually constructed horizontally by needles without warp yarn. As merchandisers to handle knit
garments we should first learn to be able to identity the different kinds of knit and what the limits are of
what you can do of each kind. When knit fabrics are finished by the mill, it is usually rolled on a tube
with tension. Therefore, when you unroll the fabric on cutting table, you should not apply the marker on
and cut it right away, you should let it relax for a few hours, or preferably over night to check it the
length has become shorter when the tension is gone. It may surprise you that the length or width or
both have shrunk 5 to 7 % on the cutting table. Just imagine, if you cut the fabrics without relaxing them
you may end up getting your garments undersized on the tension it was given prior.
Air Freight Calculation System For Garments
For air shipment, air freight charged or calculation system is depends on both actual weight and cargo
weight. If the actual weight is higher than cargo weight, then airline will charge air freight based on
higher weight that means they will charge on actual weight of the goods. On the other hand, if the cargo
weight is higher than actual weight, then airline will charge based on higher weight, that means cargo’s
weight.
For high density goods, the airline has decided to charge the heavy merchandise based on weight, and
for low density goods the airline has decided to charge the low merchandise based on volume. As we
know, airplanes can take less weight than ocean lines. Airline set the standard, when garment industry
or manufacturer ship the goods by air, there is 70% chance to be charged based on weight and about
30% chance to be charged based on volume.
If your merchandise is of high density (heavy) such as jeans, flat packed shirt, jackets without polyester
padding, T-shirt without hanger, there is a good chance you will be charged by weight. In that case, it is
not possible to save air freight by packing the goods tighter in cartons to reduce the measurements.
However, if your merchandise is of low density (light weight) such as stands up collar shirts, shirts
individually boxed, jackets with polyester padding, or down fill T-shirt or other shirts with hangers’
heavy gauge sweaters, there is a good change you will be charged by volume. In that case, you should
make an effort to necessary to do so, you must know the following relationship between weight and
volume as set by IATA (The International Air Transport Association)
a. In the South East to the U.S. destinations and Canada, most shipping locations used 1kg = 7000
cubic cm
b. In the South East to the U.S. destinations and Canada, certain shipping locations used 1kg = 6000
cubic cm
Therefore, when you have low density (light weight) goods to ship by air, in order to determine if you
should try to make the cartons as small as possible to save freight, you should check the following:
First of all, you check with local air forwarding agent by asking him in the country where you are, how
many cubic cm is considered 1kg in weight. He will tell you either 7000 cubic cm or 6000 cubic cm. After
getting the answer you physically check the weight and measurement of the goods packed for air
shipment. Now we have the below answers, as follows for example:
a. The country is Bangladesh and formula is 6000 cubic cm = 1kg
b. The measurement of the carton is 50 cm X 60 cm X 40 cm
c. The gross weight of the cartons is 16kg / carton
Now let us find out if we should try to make the cartons smaller to save air freight by doing the following
calculation:
50 cm X 60 cm X 40 cm = 120,000 cubic cm
120,000 cubic cm divided by 6000 cubic cm = 20 kg

Now you know, by volume, the one carton is of 20 kg, but by actual weight, the carton is of only 16 kg.
You also know the airline will charge whichever is higher, in this case, the will charge you for 20 kg by
volume. If the air freight rate is 2.70 /kg, this carton will cost you $54.
Now, in order to save some money, let us try to make the carton smaller (usually by cutting down the
height of the carton). Let’s say we have succeeded in cutting down the height by 5cm and see how much
money we can save:
Original size of the carton: 50 cm X 60 cm X 40 cm = 20 kg
Now cut down to: 50 cm X 60 cm X 35 cm
50 cm X 60 cm X 35 cm = 105,000 cubic cm
105,000 cubic cm divided by 6000 = 17.5 kg
Now, by using the new carton, we have saved 2.5 kg and this carton will cost you only $47.25 (17.5 kg x
2.70= $47.25)
Should we try to cut it down further if possible?
The answer is yes, because 17.5 kg is still bigger than the actual weight. We should try to cut it down to:
50 cm X 60 cm X 32 cm
= 96000 cubic cm
= 96000 cubic cm divided by 6000
= 16 kg
Which is the same as the actual weight. In this case you will have to pay 16kg x 2.70 = $ 43.2 for the air
freight of this carton no matter by weight or by volume the airline charges you. Now you can see, by
cutting the height down by only 8 cm, you have reduced the freight from $54 to $43.2, saving 10.80 /
carton.
Since the saving is so great, should we try to cut down the height further? The answer is no, please see
the following:
If we cut it down further by another 2cm, this will happen:
50 x 60 x 30 cm divided by 6000 = 15 kg
The airline will not charge you for 15kg, they will still charge you for 16kg because the actual weight is 16
kg, the last 2cm you cut down will not save you any money. However, if you can cut down the size of the
carton and not hurt the appearance of the garments inside, you should always do it because over-
sized cartons can easily be crashed due to insufficient support from inside, and in the season when air
space is tight, your volumetric cargo may have lower priority than other people’s density cargo to get on
the plane.
One point noteworthy is when you know it is going to be volumetric cargo and that the merchandise is
sweater, for example, which can be squeezed without being hurt, you should use very strong carton to
pack these goods such as 9 ply cartons (in some countries called 4-ply).
In that case, the airline would take the measurements from the biggest point to the biggest point. As a
result, you will be charged more than you calculated. However, if you use stronger cartons you can avoid
this to an extent. You should not worry about the 9 ply carton being heavier than the 7 ply carton to cost
you more air freight, because you are being charged by volume, not by weight.
Machines Used For Knit Fabric Production
In apparel industry, knitting machine used for producing knitted fabric like single jersey, pique, fleece,
terry and so on. There are two types of knitting machine used to produce knit fabric, flatbed knit
machine and circular machine. Actually, knitting machine is a device, that used to make fashionable
product. Presently, circular machine uses more than flatbed machine uses. Flatbed machine helps to
make parts like collar, cuff & pockets etc. for garments. As we already discuss on bellow topic;
 Basic structure of knit fabrics
 Commonly used knit fabrics for garments
Now we will discuss about flatbed machine and circular machine. There are two types of knitting
machines are used to produce knit fabric:
a. Flatbed knitting machine

b. Circular/tubular type knitting machine
A. Flatbed knitting machine:
In garments sector, to produce knitting flat pieces, flatbed machine is one of the common knitting
machine. A flat-formed fabric with straight edges or sides produced on a flat-bed machine. Also note
that, flatbed machine can’t purl stitch automatically. Because flatbed knitting machine have horizontal
needle beds. We call it flat knit as opposed to circular knit. We usually use flat knit for collar cuff and
bottom of knit shirts or sometimes jackets too. When we use flat knit collar, cuff and bottom, we usually
would knit them to the exact sizes because as we know, they should not be cut for size adjustment.
B. Circular/tubular knitting machine:
Now-a-day, circular/tubular machine is used widely for producing knitted fabric in the knitting mills. All
over the world, majority of knit fabrics are produced on circular knitting machines. A tubular or circular
fabric produced on a circular-type knitting machine with the loop stitch formation process made around
the fabric. Needles on the knitting machine are arranged in circle, producing fabric in tubular form.
Goods may be produced as tubular yard good or circular-shaped components or trimmings. Most
knitted fabrics, are of circular knit which means before it is cut open, the circumference is about 60”.
After knitting is completed and finished, you cut it open and width becomes about 60”.
When you set the width /Dia. by machine, you may stretch it to 62” or 64”. There is a flexibility of about
6” you can play with to suit the garment chest measurement of your size specifications. Therefore,
before you specify the width of the knitted fabric for the knitting mill to follow, you should study your
garment size specifications to determine what width you need to minimize the cutting loss.
Not only you can stretch the width, you can also stretch the length and set it, so that the width is wider
and the length is longer. Since you buy knitted fabrics by weight (by pound or kg), now that you have
stretched the fabric width wise and lengthwise, you seem to have benefited from this manipulation.
Unfortunately, the truth of the matter is, you are taking a very dangerous step because what you do
may bring you big problem later.
a. When you stretch the width and length, the weight of the fabric per square meter will be
reduced, you may be making the fabric too light beyond the buyer’s acceptance.
b. When you stretch the width and length excessively, you are making the holes in the fabric bigger
than normal, the fabric may have a see through effect.
c. No matter the fabric is of 100% cotton, or cotton / polyester blend, when you stretch it
excessively, it will recover to an extent
When it is relaxed or washed, garments made of this over stretched fabric may not pass the buyers test,
nor even be found acceptable at the consumer level due to excess shrinkage. We should not try to gain
the extra profit by stretching the fabric excessively. If we need wider width on the fabric to achieve
better yield we should try to set the machine to knit wider width, and not to make up the normal width
and then stretch it and set it. It is dangerous to do so.
Starching the selvedges of knit fabrics:
When you order knitted fabrics of medium to light weight, you should consider to instruct the mill to
starch the selvedge (to make both edges of the fabric inflexible so that they will not curve up) without
starching the selvedges, you may find the two sides of the fabric, curved up on the cutting table, making
it very difficult to lay the fabric neatly for cutting.
Yarn Count Selection For Knitting

Yarn Count:
Count is numerical expression, which express the coarseness or fineness
(diameter) of the yarn. It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. Also
indicate the relationship between length and weight (the mess per unit length
or the length per unit mass) of that yarn. Definition is given by the textile
institute – “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the
length per unit mass of yarn”
Types of yarn count:
i) Indirect count – English, Worsted, Metric
ii) Direct count – Tex, Denier, Spindle.

Indirect count: The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one
weight unit. Thus higher the count, finer the yarn. The system is generally
used for cotton, worsted & linen (wet spun) etc.
Direct count: The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length
unit. Thus higher the count, coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for
synthetic fiber, jute, silk etc.
GSM:
The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important
for a textile engineer to understand and production of fabric. GSM means
“Gram per square meter” that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square
meter. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and
which is lighter.
Count Selection In Knitting:

Knitted fabric is made with the help of yarn loops. Yarn of different counts is
used to produce fabric of different gram mage. There is also a need to calculate
optimum production of knitting machines. It is the job of knitting manager to
do certain calculation for proper use of machines and production of fabric
according to the demands of the customer.
Relation between count and GSM are given below:
Single Jersey:
110 – 120 GSM = 40/s, 36/s
130 – 150 GSM = 34/s, 32/s & 30/s
160 – 170 GSM = 26/s, 28/s (PC, CVC)
180 – 210 GSM = 24/s, 20/s, 18/s

220 – 240 GSM = 20/s
PK/LACOST/1X1 RIB:
150 – 170 GSM = 34/s
180 – 200 GSM = 30/s
210 – 225 GSM = 26/s
230 – 250 GSM = 24/s
250 – 270 = 20/s
2X1 RIB:
220 – 230 GSM = 30/s
240 – 250 GSM = 26/s
260 – 280 GSM = 24/s
INTERLOCK
22 Gauge - 24 Gauge
200 – 220 = 40/s
230 – 250 = 34/s
240 – 260 = 30/s
260 – 275 = 26/s
SINGLE JERSEY WITH LYCRA 5%:

150 – 160 GSM = 34/s
170 – 190 GSM = 30/s
200 – 210 GSM = 26/s
220 – 240 GSM = 24/s
FLEECE:
250 GSM = 20/s, 30/s (20: 80)
300 GSM = 10/s, 26/s (30:70)
Select Yarn Count For Your Specific

Fabric GSM
Yarn count selection for specific fabric GSM is technical and common task for
textile engineers. By using formula textile engineers can easily select the actual
yarn count for knot fabrics. These can be varying deferent fabric types.
Single Jersey:
If, the require fabric GSM is 150
Yarn count = (-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22
= (-0.141) X (150) + 50.22
= -21.15 + 50.22
= 29.07
So, we need yarn count 30/s to knit 150 GSM single jersey fabric
Interlock:
Yarn count = (-0.206) X (GSM) + 80.56
= (-0.206) X (210) + 80.56
= -43.26 + 80.56
= 37.3
So, we need yarn count 38/s to knit 210 GSM Interlock fabrics
Pique:
Yarn count = (-0.146) X (GSM) + 57.16
= (-0.146) X (230) + 57.16
= -33.58 + 57.16
= 23.58
So, we need yarn count 24/s to knit 230 GSM Pique fabric
1*1 Rib:
Yarn count = (-0.123) X (GSM) + 54.57
= (-0.123) X (200) + 54.57

= -24.6 + 54.57
= 29.97
So, we need yarn count 30/s to knit 200 GSM 1x1 Rib fabrics
Double Lacoste:
Yarn count = (-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36
= (-0.167) X (240) + 64.36
= -40.08 + 64.36
= 24.28
So, we need yarn count 24/s to knit 240 GSM Double Lacoste fabrics
Lycra 1×1 Rib:

If, required fabric GSM is 220
Yarn Count = (-0.119) GSM + 59.12
= (-0.119) x 220 + 59.12
= -26.18 + 59.12
=32.94
So, we need yarn count 32/s to knit 220 GSM 1x1 lycra Rib fabrics
Lycra 2x2 Rib:
Yarn count = (-0.108) X (GSM) + 56.62
= (-0.108) X (240) + 56.62
= -25.92 + 56.62
= 30.07
So, we need yarn count 30/s to knit 240 GSM Lycra 2x2 Rib fabrics
Formulating equations for calculating & controlling width, WPI, CPI & GSM of circular weft knitted
fabric
*Abul Hasnat, BUTex, Md. Salim Akhter Khan, Head of Dye House, EchoTex Ltd. * Corresponding
Author,
ahrupak@gmail.com
January 1, 2013
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Introduction:
Fabrics are produced mainly by knitting technique and weaving technique. Knit fabric production is
easier and quicker than weaving technique. Though knitting production is simple, its technical
parameters calculation is complicated and difficult than weaving. Technical parameters involved in the
knit fabrics are: loop structure, loop/stitch length, CPI ,WPI, GSM, shrinkage, spirality, fabric width etc. In
reality knitted loops in the fabric is curvilinear in shape but this work has done necessary analysis to
consider it like a circle, following thata circle geometry and corresponding formulae has been used in
formulating some parameters of circular knitted single jersey fabric. It is very difficult to maintain&
control circular knitted fabric parameters due to severalvariables (like yarn type, yarn quality, yarn twist,
fabric structure, machine speed, machine rotation, yarn tension, take up tension & many more) related
with circular knitting production and influences of them are unavoidable, so the parameters can be
varying more than acceptable limit. But still the derived formulae focus practicalenvironmentand help to
calculate parameters directly and easily.
Methodology:
The first attempt was to get a technical equation to calculate fabric diameter or width for factory use
and for that several ways was followed, both searching books and trying to formulate new one. To have
new equation, the proposed ideawas using circle for loops shape, then the same idea was used to
calculate others parameters. All the equations were then checked with large number of factory data.
Related Terminologies & Definitions:
Knitting
Knitted structures are progressively built-up from row of intermeshed loops. The newly fed yarn is
converted into a new loop in each needle hook. The needle then draws the new loop head first through
the old (fabric) loop, which has retained from the previous knitting cycle. The needles, at the same time,
release, (cast off or knock over) the old loops so that they hang suspended by their heads from the feet
of the new loops whose heads are still held in the hooks of the needles. A cohesive knitted loop
structure is thus produced by a combination of the intermeshed needle loops and yarn that passes from
needle loop to needle loop.There are so many variables in knitting production like, yarn related (i.e. yarn
composition, count, twist direction, twist per inch (TPI) etc.); machine related (i.e. machine diameter,
machine RPM, rotation direction, no of feeder, VDQ pulley diameter etc.) & fabric related (i.e. fabric
type, construction, stitch length, stitch density etc.) and this can vary fabric parameters at large.
Wales Per Inch
Wales per inch (WPI)indicate the total numbers of wales in one inch of linear fabric. WPI is one of the
important parameters to determine GSM of fabric and other fabric properties.
Courses Per Inch
Coursesper inch (CPI)indicate thenumbers of coursesin one inch of linear fabric. In the same manner,
CPI is one of the important parameters to determine GSM of knit fabric and other fabric properties.
Stitch length
Stitch length is theoretically the single length of yarn which include one needle loop and half of a sinker
loopbetween that needle loop and the adjacent needle loop.The length is measured in millimeter (mm).
Itinfluencesfabric dimension and other properties including weight.
Fabric Width
Where, d = Cylinder diameter, G = Gauge of machine
GSM
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.

Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula,
Here, T = Tex, S = Stitch density,
l= Stitchlength
GSM is one of the primary parameters for determining fabric quality and GSM depends on WPI, CPI,
yarn count (Ne) and stitch length.The GSM cutter isvery popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument
used in most of the knittingfactories.The construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of
100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it
and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM Reading.
Technical formula used for GSM calculation,
Yarn Diameter Calculation:
In indirect system of yarn count, higher the yarn count finer the yarn
Analysis:
The shape of a loop is not circular, but the yarn for that loop or stich length can be taken as equal to the
circumference of a circle (Figure 1). The point is that, loop shape is not circle but can be assumed as a
circle and that will help to formulate some equations.
So, it has been assumed that every loop is equivalent to a circle and then circumference of that loop will
be equal to Stitch Length.
Width of Fabric:
Fabric width is formed by courses that are laying crosswise (loops in horizontal direction).
So, Width=loop Dia* no of loops
Width=loop Dia* no of course
Width=loop Dia* no of needles
According to this equation the width calculation should be easy and loop should stay like the image cited
below:
But every circle share part of circle of both sides. Fabric width from this equation will be less than actual
width because the loop circles placed consecutively shares both sides with preceding and successive
loops (Figure 3).
Now let’s make relation between values from this equation & actual values and see how much closer
they stay.
Table 1 shows that the actual width and the width from the equation always maintain approximately
same ratio among themselves.If this ratio can be considered as a constant actual width of the fabric can
easily be derived.
So the equations can be written as considering R as a constant as it shows in the Table 1.

The value of R for Single jersey is 1.25-1.30 and for 1*1Rib is about 1.00 and for others fabric type’s
value of R can be calculated.
Variation of R is related withtype of fabric construction, needles number, yarn types and composition,
machine tension, speed, and tightness factor.
WPI:
WPI can be calculated from this equation of width.
No of needles=no of wales, and width is expressed in inch.
So, No of wales per inch=Total no of wales or no of needles/Width of the fabric in inches.
t is to be mentioned that actual WPI can be less than the WPI found from this equation if any needles
are inactive.
Course Per Inch (CPI):
A knitted fabric is a combination of courses in horizontal direction with continuous yarn. A wale is
formed having courses as shown in figure 5. A loop contains a tail yarn of previous loop and a head yarn
of next loop [From figure 5], so effective height of every course is (d1-2dy) mm.
So, Course height is (d1 – 2dy) mm or { (d1 – 2dy)*39.36/1000 } inch
Let, n=no of courses required for 1 inch of fabric or CPI
This equation can be used to have idea of CPI or to determine required no of feeder/course.
GSM:
The equation for GSM can be formulated by using equation of WPI & CPI formulated here.
The general formula for calculating GSM is
Figure 6 shows the variation of Actual GSM and GSM from derived equation for single jersey grey
fabrics made of 100% cotton at standard condition.
Figure 7 shows a relative presentation of actual and calculated GSM when required GSM is 130.The
analyzed data shows that the error percentage for calculated GSM is below 5% in most of the time. And
this variation of GSM is related with so many factors like: color, yarn count, tightness factor, relaxation
state, andprocessesoccurred onthe fabric.
The equationof GSM contains the constant ‘R’ &statistical analysis for the values of R for 100% cotton
single jersey fabric foundfrom analyzed data shows 1.46% standard deviation when mean value is 1.273
at table 4.
On the other hand factory data for 120 GSM single jersey fabric productions from 100% cotton yarn
shows 5.46% standard deviation, which shows that equation derived here will give less error then the
existing ways of controlling GSM.
Results:
The equations for some knitting parameters of circular knitted fabric are
Where, R=constant that depends on fabric types.

D=Machine Diameter and G= Machine gauge
Sl=Stitch Length (mm)& Ne=Yarn count (English count)
Knitted fabric is dimensionally unstable fabric. Here value of ‘R’ can be different for different types of
variables. So, a constant ‘R’ value (for S/J R=1.25-1.3) must be measured by maintaining a standard
procedure & standard parameters of all variables. A further study should be done to identify the
constant value of ‘R’ for all basic types of knitted fabric.
Conclusion & Remarks:
All the equation derived here got two specific variables, Stitch length and Yarn Count. The two which are
mainly responsible for determining parameters like width, WPI, CPI & GSM. The existing equations for
calculating parameters may need more variables or need to be calculated after production. All the
equation here is to have a prediction about WPI, CPI, Width and GSM, and process of formulation is so
easy to understand that nontechnical & technical persons both will find it easy to absorb. The values
from these equations show less standard deviation than the present situation of production. The error
can be less if ‘R’ value is more precise & standard procedure can be followed.
Consumption and chart:
Approx sewing thread consumption of different items
No. Product name Consumption
01 Basic t- shirt 125meter
02 Basic polo shirt 175
03 Tank top 50meter
04 Fleece/Sherpa jacket 250meter
05 Kids/girls dresses 300-450meter
06 basic long sleeve woven shirt 150meter
07 Basic short sleeve woven shirt 125 meter
08 basic long trouser/pant 350meter
Machine wise sewing thread consumption/inch
1.plain m/c 1 needle 2.5 inch
2.plain m/c 2 needle 5 inch
3.over lock 3 thread 13.25 inch
4. over lock 4thread 16.75inch
5.over lock 5 thread 18.75inch
6.flat lock 3 thread 16.75inch
7.flat lock 5thread 22.25inch
8.bar tack stitching Per operation Generally 7 inch
Some conversion unit
Conversion system
1 Yard = 0.9144 Meter
1 Foot = 0.3048 Meter
1 Foot = 30.48 cm
1 inch = 2.54 cm
1 Meter = 1.09 Yard
1 Meter = 3.28 Foot
1 CM = 0.032 Foot
1 CM = 0.393 Inch
1 Square Inch = 6.45 Square CM
1 Square Meter = 0.836 Square CM
3.4 Fabric Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Men’s T-shirt:
For a Men’s T-Shirt:
a) G.S.M (Given by buyer) Body : 145-150
Neck/Rib : 175-180
b) Sewing & seam allowances (Not given by buyer) – 1.50-3cm
c) Wastage % (Not given by buyer) – 7%
d) Measurement chart (given by buyer)
Measurement Chart:
Parameter Given Estimated with sewing allowance
a) Chest 96cm 102cm
b) HPS 65cm 70cm
c) sleeve length 20cm 25cm
d) Arm hole 46cm 49cm
e) Neck 58cm 61cm
f) Neck width 2+2=4cm 7cm
g) Bottom hem 2cm
Formula:
Cpd = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000
Where, Cpd = Consumption per dozen
L = Length
W = Width
A) Cpd (body) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000
= 70 x 102x 12 x 150 kg
10000000
= 1.28 kg
B) Cpd (Sleeve) = L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg
10000000
= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg
10000000
= 0.44 kg
C) Cpd (Neck) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000
= 61 x 7 x 12 x 180 kg
10000000
= 0.092 kg
So, total Cpd = (A + B+C)
= (1.28 + 0.44 + 0.09) kg
= 1.81 kg
Actual Cpd = Total Cpd + 7% wastage
= (1.81 + 7%)
= 1.94 kg
So, the fabric consumption for men’s T-shirt is 1.94 kg per dozen.
3.5 Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Polo shirt
Here,
a) G.S.M. (given by buyer) body 145 – 150
Collar (12pcs) 400
Cuff (12 x 2) 300
b) Sewing & seam allowance 1.50 – 3cm
c) Wastage % 7%
d) Measurement chart (given by buyer
6.2.1. Measurement Chart:
Parts Name Given Estimated
a) Chest 96 cm 102 cm
b) HPS 65 cm 70 cm
c) Sleeve length 20 cm 25 cm
d) Arm hole 46 cm 49 cm
e) Collar length 46 cm 46 cm
f) Collar width 7 cm 10 cm
g) Cuff length 26 cm 10 cm
h) cuff width 3 cm 5cm
A) Cpd (body) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000
= 70 x 102x 12 x 150 kg
10000000
= 1.28 kg
B) Cpd (Sleeve) = L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg
10000000
= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg
107
= 0.44 kg
C) Cpd (Collar) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
107
= 46 x 10 x 12 x 400 kg
107
= 0.22 kg
C) Cpd (Collar) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
107
= 46 x 10 x 12 x 400 kg
107
= 0.22 kg
D) Cpd (Cuff) = L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg
107
= 30 x 5 x 12 x 2 x 300 kg
107
= 0.108 kg
So, total Cpd= A + B + C + D
= (1.28 + 0.44 + 0.22 + 0.108) kg
= 2.05kg
Actual Cpd = 2.05 kg + 7%
= 2.19 kg
So, fabric consumption for 1 dozen polo shirt is 2.19 kg.
Consumption calculation for 1 dozen Trousers:
For Trouser,
a) G.S.M. (given by buyer) 180 - 250
b) Sewing & seam allowance 1.50 – 3cm
c) Wastage % 7%
Parts Name Given Estimated
a) Waist 112 cm 114 cm
b)Side seam (length) 107 cm 114 cm
c) Thigh (width 66 cm 72 cm
d) Front rise 28 cm
e) Back rise 36 cm
f)Leg Opening (bottom) 46 cm
Measurement Chart:
Cpd = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
107
= 114 x 2 x 72 x 12 x 200 kg
107
= 3.93 kg
Actual Cpd = (3.93 + 7%) kg
= 4.2 kg
So, fabric consumption for 1 dozen Trousers is 4.2

Result and discussion
Cost a price for 1 dozen T- shirt:
Pre-requisites:
Unit price Costing
1. Fabric consumption 2 kg/dz $5.0/kg $10/kg
2. Accessories $2/dz $2/dz
3. CM (cost of manufacturing) $2/dz $2/dz

Total $14
A) Direct cost (raw materials) = $14.0
B) Indirect cost (15% to 20% of direct cost)
Indirect cost = $14.0 x 20%
= $2.8
Total = $14.0 + $2.8
= $16.8

C) Profit @5% = $16.8 x 5%
= @0.84
Therefore, total cost = $16.8 + $0.84
= $17.64
= $18
So, the cost for 1 dozen mean’s T-shirt is $18

Cost a price for 1 dozen Polo shirt:
Pre-requisites
Unit price Cost
1. Fabric consumption 2.7 kg/dz $5.0/dz $13.5
2. Accessoires $2.5/dz $2.5
3. CM $4-6/dz $5
Total $21
A) Direct cost (raw material) = $21
B) Indirect cost = 15% - 20% of direct cost
= $21 x 20%
= $4.2
Total cost = A + B
= $21 + $4.2
= 25.2
C) Profit at 5% = $25.2 x 5%
= $26.46
= $26.5
The total cost for 1 dozen polo shirt is $26.5
Cost a price for 1 dozen Trousers:
Pre-requisites
Unit price Cost
1. Fabric consumption 4.2 kg $5.0/dz $21
2. Accessories $3.5/dz $3.5
3. CM $4-6/dz $5
Total $29.5
A) Direct cost (raw material) = $21
B) Indirect cost = 15% - 20% of direct cost
= $21 x 20%
= $4.2
Total cost = A + B
= $21 + $4.2
= $33.2
C) Profit at 5% = $33.5 x 5%
= $35.18
= $35.18
The total cost for 1 dozen polo shirt is $35.18

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Introduction:

1 lb. = 453.6 grams -----LBs = Grams / 453.6 -----Grams = LBs X 453.6

1. A sweater’s weight 950 grams, find out weight in lbs.?

2. A Bundle of Yarn’s weight 3 lbs., find out weight in grams?

3. A sweater of 3 kg weight, find out weight in lbs. ?

4. A sweater of 3 lbs. weight, find out weight in KGs ?

B. GSM, Oz (Ounces), Embroidery Unit:

6. A Twill Fabric of 8 Oz, find out it’s GSM ?

See the photo below to identify warp & weft threads.

Identify warp & weft threads

See photo below to identify EPI & PPI.

Formula: length X width X height / 1000000

Formula: length X width X height / 1000000 X carton quantity

Formula: length X width X height / 1728

Formula: price / 12000 X embroidery stitches

Formula: length X width X GSM / 1550000 (1 yard = 36 inches)

Formula: length X width X GSM / 10000000 (1 Meter = 100 cm)

Formula: kg X 1550000 / length / width (1 yard = 36 inches)

Formula: kg x 10000000 / length / width (1 meter = 100 centimeter)

The photo below shows you a pant’s Length & Width.

Formula: [{(chest X length) + (sleeve length X full armhole)} x 2 X GSM + wastage%] x 12

The photo below indicates T-shirt & its measurement point.

T-shirt & its measurement

Formula: marker length X marker width X GSM / 1550000

Fabric Consumption in dozen: (7 x 36 + 4) x 60 x 180 / 1550000 / 5 x 12 = 4.28 KGs. Formula: marker

KG = length X width X GSM / 1550000

 2 Needles Plain Machine = 5.5 inches for per inch stitch

 Safety Stitch = 20 inches for per inch stitch

 Flat lock Stitch = 32 inches for per inch stitch

 2 Needle Kansai M/c = 12 inches for per inch stitch

 1 Needle Chain Stitches = 5 inches for per inch stitch

 Feed of the Arm M/c = 11 inches for per inch stitch

 Button Hole = 24 inches for per inch stitch

 Bar take M/c = 26 inches for per inch stitch

 Button Stitch of 2 Eyes (holes) = 3 inches thread

 Button Stitch of 4 Eyes (holes) = 6 inches thread

F. Carton Consumption & Pricing:

Formula: length X width X height / 1000000 X carton quantity

G. Poly Bags Consumption & Costing:

 Mil (1 mil = 1/1000 of an inch)

 Microns (1 microns = 1/1000 of a mm)

 Gauge (1 gauge = 1/100000 of an inch)

Conversion, 1 mil = 25 microns = 100 gauge.

H. Button Linear & Button Counting:

Formula: Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or 1 / 0.635 x button Dia in mm

Memorize the information below regarding button.

I. Threads Length Calculations:

 1 lb. single cotton thread length = 840 yards

 1 lb. single linen / viscose thread length = 300 yards

 1 lb. single wool thread length = 300 yards

 1 lb. single silk thread length = 840 yards

 1 lb. single acrylic thread length = 560 yards

Therefore, Sixteen Single (16s) = 16 x 840 = 13440 yards = 1 lb.

J. Sweater Gauge Counting & Yarn Consumption:

Gauge Count & Ply Count & Ply

12 GG 2/32 2 plies 2/16 1ply

K. Garments CM (Cost of Manufacturing) Calculation:

1. Monthly expense of factory,

2. Total running machine,

3. Machine quantity to execute the layout of mentioned order,

4. Daily (8 hour per day) productivity of the order,

5. Dollar conversion rate (if monthly expense is different from USD)

 Monthly Factory Expense = 50,00,000 Taka