Professional Documents
Culture Documents
THE ERA OF
MONOMASS
DAZED
MEDIA
PAGE 4 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
PRESENTS
A comprehensive report on
the future of youth culture
CONTENTS
1 3 5
2 4
INTRODUCTION
ROLE
SELF SOCIETY
MODELS
MEDIA CULTURE
CONCLUSION
FLUID NEW MEDIA RISE OF JOY BEYOND END OF
IDENTITIES CREATORS COLLABORATIONS INFLUENCER
THE
NEW PEAK MEDIA COMMON CULT BRANDS IN WE ALL NEED
DEFIANCE CULTURE GODS
‘TRUSTED’ MEDIA NEW
ALTERNATIVE REVOLUTIONS CROSS CULTURE NEW PERSONAS
REALITIES
A SUMMARY
EVERY SECOND, THE WORLD IS
CHANGING. A GLOBAL PANDEMIC
AND THE FIGHT FOR BLACK LIVES
HAVE LAID BARE THE DIVISIONS THAT
EXIST IN WESTERN SOCIETY. IN AN
ERA OF EXTREME SMARTPHONE
AND SOCIAL MEDIA USE, THE
REVOLUTION CERTAINLY IS BEING
TELEVISED. WELCOME TO THE ERA
OF MONOMASS. UNCOMFORTABLE
CONVERSATIONS LIE AHEAD AND
AWKWARD TRUTHS NEED TO BE
CONFRONTED.
WE EXPLORE:
1. THE MULTIPLE 5. BEYOND COLLABORATION.
IDENTITIES OF GEN Z.
6. THE END OF ‘INFLUENCER’
2. WHAT DOES TRUSTED AS WE KNOW IT.
MEDIA LOOKS LIKE TODAY?
7. DRIVING CHANGE WITH
3. THE POWER OF REAL HEROES AND MORE.
CULTURAL CURATORS.
8. WE APPLY OUR FINDINGS IN A
4. A MODEL FOR VALUE GUIDE FOR BRANDS AND A VISION
MEASUREMENT FOR BRANDS. FOR TOMORROW.
“!e power of the audience lies not in its size but its level of investment in a brand’s point of
PAGE 10
view.”
THE ERA OF MONOMASS
“!e power of the audience lies not in its size but its level of investment in a brand’s point of
view.”
SNAPSHOT OF FINDINGS
70% BELIEVE
GEN Z ARE OVER 60% THAT A BRAND ONLY 6%
DEFINED BY ARE
NEED NEW MOST
IMAGES MUST HAVE OF OUR
THEIR INTERESTS 68% SAY CONCERNED A POV TO BE AUDIENCE FEEL
OVER ANYTHING THAT ONLINE ABOUT RACE INFLUENTIAL THAT BIGGER
ELSE; WHEN PUBLICATIONS EQUALITY, TODAY, 67% INFLUENCERS
ASKED HOW (INCLUDING ENVIRONMENTAL BELIEVE THEY WITH 100K+
THEY DEFINE MAGAZINES AND ISSUES, MUST BE FOLLOWERS
THEIR IDENTITY, ZINES) INFLUENCE WOMEN’S SUSTAINABLE HAVE AN
66% OF GEN Z THEIR OPINIONS, RIGHTS AND AND HAVE INFLUENCE
SAID THROUGH 45% SAY BOOKS LGBTQ+ RIGHTS. STRONG ETHICS, ON THEIR
THEIR STYLE, INFLUENCE THEIR HAVE AN 56% BELIEVE PURCHASE
65% OPINIONS INFLUENCE ON THEY NEED DECISIONS
SAID MUSIC THEIR PURCHASE TO HAVE A
DECISIONS PURPOSE AND
LIVE BY IT
METHODOLOGY
UK FRANCE
18% 3%
ITALY
USA SPAIN
3%
2% CHINA
20%
10%
MEXICO INDIA
3% 2%
SOUTH AFRICA
2%
AMERICA
9%
AUSTRALIA
5%
OTHER
26%
WE INTERVIEWED 3,510 OF OUR GLOBAL
MILLENNIAL AND GEN Z AUDIENCE.
PAGE 16 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
- RONOJOY DAM,
GLOBAL BRAND AND CULTURE DIRECTOR, FARFETCH
PAGE 26 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
THE IDEA OF
INFLUENCE IS
COMPLEX AND
EVER-SHIFTING.
INFLUENCE
DISRUPTED
PAGE 30 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
A GLOBAL
CULTURE
SHOCK
PAGE 32 THE ERA OF MONOMASS THE MEANING OF INFLUENCE
POP STARS
AI
THE POWER PLAYERS
INFLUENCERS
POLITICIANS
CELEBRITIES
CELEBRITIES ALGORITHMS
SOCIALITES
THE RISE OF
BRANDS AVATARS
THE UPPER THE BRANDS
IN CULTURE
CLASSES
REAL HEROES
MEDIA
WORD OF
WORD OF
MOUTH
WORD OF WORD OF MOUTH
MOUTH MOUTH
SOCIAL MEDIA
THE CHANNELS
AR
RADIO TV
ONLINE PUBLISHERS
VR
BROADSHEETS MAGAZINES
MESSENGER APPS
MULTIPLE PLATFORMS
CINEMA TABLOID
BRANDED
PREVAILING PHYSICAL
EXPERIENCES
PAGE 38 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
WE ARE
ON THE VERGE OF
SOMETHING
PAGE 40 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
THE NE
W
FLOW
PAGE 42 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
CREATORS
CREATORS COMMUNITY
CO
Y
IT
M
UN
FLOW
FLOW
CONTENT COMMUNITY
M
CONTENT
UN
OM
CO
NT
CO
Y
IT
IT
TE
NT
C
Y
M
UN
ON
CONTENT
EN
CONTENT
UN
CONTENT C
T
M
COMMUNITY
COMMUNITY
CO
NT
IRL RADIO
I
CO
TY
CONTENT C
TE
NT
ON
EN
CREATORS
CONTENT C
COMMUNITY
COMMUNITY
IRL TV PRINT
RADIO
CONTENT
NEW
CREATORS
OLD
T
TV PRINT
O
E
N
T
CO
TY
E
O
N
I
M
UN
T
TASTE MAKER
C
T
CONTENT
M
N
O
M
E
UN
T
C
Y
I
O
T
O
O
TY
N
I
M
N
T
TASTE MAKER
U
CONTENT
M
COMMUNITY
U
M
NI
O
T
C
Y
COMMUNITY
COMMUNIT Y
-
COMMUNIT Y
-
PAGE 44 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
1 4
SELF CULTURE
GEN INFLUENCE CONNECTED
2 5
MEDIA ROLE
EVERYTHING MODELS
AND NOTHING
INFLUENCE BEYOND
INFLUENCERS
PAGE 46 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
1
SELF
MILLENNIALS AND GEN Z
ARE REDEFINING IDENTITY
BY EXPLORING FLUID,
DIGITAL SELVES.
PAGE 48 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
With increased access to all With this we saw the rise of the
aspects of culture the very notion polymath (an individual whose knowl-
of identity has changed to become edge spans a significant number of
something much more fluid. We subjects), and Millennials fully embrac-
express this in how we work, live ing a cross disciplinary approach to life
and articulate who we are to the and learning.
world.
Gen Z progressed this multi
Millennials were the first movement even further, becoming
generation to break career norms known as the ultimate side hustle
and came to be known as the ‘multi- generation, with little to no barriers
hyphen generation’ – having multiple between their work and passions.
careers that play to their multitude
of skills and create multiple revenue Both generations easily move
streams (37% of Millennials have a between groups of shared interests,
secondary business, Henley Business belonging to several macro and micro
School, 2018). This also played out groups at any one time. They are draw-
in their approach to knowledge and ing their influence from endless cultural
tastes – no longer striving to become cornerstones and therefore their oppor-
experts in one thing, they know a tunities and scope to be influenced and
little about a lot. influence has increased exponentially.
PAGE 54 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
ROOMS —
NG
YEEZY Home, Kanye West Honey Boy
Social Housing Foundation Immersive Theatre
PHILANTHROP Y
2019
I
ACT
Project (Now Closed Production
Sunday Servic e Down)
DE
REL
SI
GN E
FKA TWIGS TR
IG
& A
AR E
ION
CH TH
DONDA IT
EC
Studio TU
RE
Pole-dance
Only One
Video Game DANCE
GAMING Ballet
M
US
IC Wushu
MUSIC
KANYE WEST
Producer &
ART
N
Tempest Drum
HIO
Machine Newd
FILM MAKING
Singer &
FAS
ZINE
Songwriter
YEEZY
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
YEEZY x Adidas
AvantGarden
Cruel Summer NikeWomen’s Self-directe d
YEEZY 2012 Runaway Spring Zona l almost all of her
Sunday Servic e 2010 Strength Tights music video s
PAGE 58 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
In the past, you could only be in times where we can much more
in one place at one time, only absorb easily switch between personas,
so much. People picked an affiliation, tastes and opinions.
a subculture, a ‘tribe’ – and these
tribes signalled much about our iden- With so much culture in the
tities, our values and beliefs. palm of our hands, we have com-
plex tastes and amalgamated
Not only should the word ‘tribe’ identities. As artist, musician
be discarded due to its colonial con- and co-founder of the collective
notations but gone are the days of NiNE8 collective put it; “if you have
the singular tribe (which arguably enough passion to do it you can
could never represent the complexity teach yourself. That’s the way it
of someone’s identity like punks, hip- is today, my generation has more
pies, mods and rockers – emblems access to information than any
of defiance, and we find ourselves previous generation.”
PAGE 60 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
The rejection of yesterday’s also able to tap into the power of the
norms or conventions shows up in collective (Viacom Velocity) and unit-
their attitude to beauty, too. On some ing their defiance with others. Peer-
level, Gen Z are growing up in times to-peer organisation and communi-
of extreme pressure – from social cation through social channels yields
media – to looking a certain way, but immense power to shift the cultural
they are also forming creative and conversation and create change.
alternative beauty subcultures online Amongst this era of constantly shift-
that radically defies this pressure. ing power dynamics brands can help
to bring people and communities
Gen Z feel a sense of empower- together, provide a platform and
ment that comes from within but are amplify their message and goals.
PAGE 68 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
sented faces and voices,” says Isabella we didn’t have money - we’d go
and supports unconventional research,
Giancarlo, Fluide’s co-founder. around to each other’s bedrooms –
countercultures, and practices
that’s how we’d get by. We did it in a
that apprehend and challenge the
weird little punk way, and it worked
formulation of culture, the manufacture,
because people were curious, and the
and commodities of knowledge.
way we started it was a bit raggo and
a bit naughty” - Lava La Rue, Musician,
artist and co-founder of NiNE8 collec-
tive, Dazed 100
IN
PAGE 72 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
21% OF PEOPLE
ONLINE TO IRL
PAGE 76 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
One way in which Gen Z and But paradoxically, filters are part
millennials are exploring new facets of the way that Gen Z express them-
of their digital selves is through selves online. Thanks to phenomenal
augmented reality. AR beauty has creators such as AR artist and D100er
received backlash for it’s effects on Autonommy, filters are fast becoming
mental health and body image. a recognised art form.
OF
We found that 20%
Cultural voices like Grimes and
PEOPLE SURVEYED Arca are leading the way by embrac-
SAID USING FILTERS ing and exploring the freedom of their
WAS DISHONEST Digital Me – a virtual canvas to per-
form and examine identity, gender
AND DAMAGING. and beauty in infinite new ways.
PAGE 78 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
Macmillan, Lucy Bridge and Charles is showing us a new future in which can upload an image of yourself and
Jeffrey, and Drag Race UK’s The Vivienne. realness and authenticity have space have the clothing ‘fitted’ to the image
to exist alongside the openly fake. by their team of 3-D designers.
HOW
THE POWER
OF COMMUNITY
Although Gen Z are defiant they
also understand the power and
value of community. Together we
are stronger and only then able to
truly affect change.
PAGE 84 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
B
E
interest segment
understand your audience care about of their Collective Persona is imper-
A
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more than just fashion, move beyond ative to truly understanding the next
T
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this mono interest into other areas to Gen landscape. LE Y
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WHAT WOULD YOUR NEXT CAMPAIGN AN
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2
THE INTERNET REVOLUTION HAS
SHIFTED THE MEDIA LANDSCAPE
AND WITH IT, OUR BEHAVIOURS AND
MINDSETS HAVE FOREVER CHANGED.
COVID-19 HAS ACCELERATED MEDIA
TRENDS THAT WERE LOOMING
IN THE BACKGROUND.
MEDIA
MARKETING’S MOST OVERUSED
BUZZWORD, BUT WHAT DOES IT
MEAN AND HOW IS IT USEFUL?
PAGE 88 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
56% OF RESPONDENTS
GLOBALLY SAY THAT
INSTAGRAM HAS THE
BIGGEST INFLUENCE ON
THEIR OPINIONS, IN CHINA
58% SAID WEIBO HAD
THE BIGGEST IMPACT ON
THEIR OPINIONS
PAGE 92 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
VIRTUAL WORLD
THIS
OUT
CULTURE
COLLAB HOUSE OPEN SOURCE MEDIA AND GAMING
New content factories are emerging Gen Z have completely changed the Gen Z’s wide adoption of gaming has
as ‘collab houses’ where ‘influencers’ music discovery game with TikTok permeated through culture – changing
live together creating content full time. giving rise to stars such as Lil Nas X the visual language of today. Gaming
Bytehouse in the UK and HypeHouse in and Stunna Girl. Drake’s recent release is also increasingly the media platform
LA have been created by TikTok. FaZe Toosie Slide was primed for Tiktok of choice by brands. The hype around
Clan is an esports and entertainment vitality and was played 3 billion times. Travis Scott’s Fortnite collaboration
company with two houses in LA who “If you think about the songs in the top shows why. With 12 million players
have an upcoming reality show to 20, like Doja Cat - Say So, or Lil Mosey logging on to watch him perform as
find their next gaming star, developed - Blueberry Faygo, they would not be his avatar, the landscape changed as
in partnership with new short-form where they’re at if it wasn’t for TikTok. he moved between each song. Apple
PLAYS
It’s kind of awesome’ - Sean Miyashiro, used to pave new virtual futures.
Founder and CEO of 88rising.
IN
PAGE 98 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
Content is king and platforms way. This means that brands need to
are limitless. We see and consume find other ways to connect with their
hundreds of pieces of content a day audiences and provide value – beyond
and thousands of adverts. Most of the product. Having and sharing a
us spend over two hours a day on point of view ranks higher than even
social media alone and consumers sustainability and ethics.
around the world spend an average
of 463 minutes or over 7.5 hours per Seeing #ad has become the
day with media (Statista, 2020). It’s norm and with 93% of consumers
no wonder we are overloaded and not trusting ads, according to the
overwhelmed. American Association of Advertising
Agencies, creating content that
Multidisciplinary, Kone cuts through and connects is the
Ndlovu stated that ‘I think the everlasting challenge. Dazed’s
bigger problem of optics {in #AloneTogether Campaign, put
reference to Instagram} is that it gives community and creativity at the heart 70% OF YOUTH BELIEVE
the impression that the whole world during lockdown, Gucci’s at home, THAT HAVING A POINT
looks like that. It’s just not even close quarantine shoot and Converse’s
OF VIEW IS THE KEY
to the truth.’ Spark Progress support for creative
communities are some of the recent TO MAKING A BRAND
The sheer volume of content has stand outs. They focus on community, INFLUENTIAL TODAY
two major negatives: a detrimental empowering people at home and
effect on our mental health, and providing genuine support.
the ability for it to create true cut
through. With the rise of content, the Put your community at the heart
daily barrage of advertising is almost and forefront of your storytelling,
impossible to miss. We’re constantly hand over the reins, co-create and
being sold to in a much more intrusive start with the story.
PAGE 102 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
GROWTH IN CONTENT
CREATOR PLATFORMS
YOUTUBE
INSTAGRAM
IGTV engagement has increased in March and April compared
to November/December 2019, with VIEWS UP 39%
AND LIKES UP 36%
PAGE 106 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
VIRTUAL
EVERYTHING
“I want brands to
provide content that
teaches and inspires.
To learn something.”
- DAZED AUDIENCE
68% OF RESPONDENTS
SAID THAT ONLINE
PUBLICATIONS HAVE
THE HIGHEST INFLUENCE
ON CHANGING THEIR
OPINIONS (INCLUDING
ZINES AND MAGAZINES)
PAGE 116 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
Magazines are one of the most trusted Algorithms are cutting through the Paper Magazine’s recent digital
sources of media according to Jigsaw noise to offer personalised content that cover with Lady Gaga, Rolling
research 2018. We’re seeing more often goes beyond our consciousness Stone’s Grimes cover and The New
niche, more premium titles emerging and expands our minds. There is a rise York Times Magazine’s The Music
(eg Inque Magazine - launching 2021 of people working collaboratively with Issue all explored the boundaries
they plan to do one print issue per year, AI to explore creativity in new ways. between physical and digital. The
for 10 years, the recently launched Gen Z creator Kesia Inkersole, founder walls between IRL and URL are
Gossamer and Adhesivo Magazine. It is of Latent Space is using AI chatbots to breaking down even further to make
clear that carefully curated content with create new kinds of imagery. for one fully integrated and seamless
unique points of view are resonating experience that speaks to our offline
PLAYS
IN
PAGE 122 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
BUT WHAT
DOES THIS
ALL MEAN ?
PAGE 124 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
IT MEANS
EVERYTHING
AND NOTHING
PAGE 126 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
A NEW MODEL:
VALUE MEASUREMENT >
SENTIMENT
REACH
We are in need of a new system that has a more powerful influence.
VIEWS, IMPRESSIONS
of measurement. The current system Although the emotional is hard to
prioritises reach over an emotional quantify it is arguably the most
response or perception change valuable measurement we have.
PAGE 130 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
3
SOCIETY IS MADE UP OF MOVEMENTS
THAT BOTH UNITE AND DIVIDE US.
DURING TOUGH POLITICAL TIMES
WE’VE SEEN GLOBAL YOUTH MOBILISE
TO FILL THE BLANKS CREATED BY
FAILING GOVERNMENTS. AS WE FREE
FALL FURTHER INTO A DIGITAL WORLD
WE MUST HARNESS TECHNOLOGY –
SOCIETY
THE SAME FORCE THAT CAN SO OFTEN
DRIVE US APART – IN ORDER TO MAKE
NEW CONNECTIONS.
PAGE 132 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
NEW ESCAPISM
THIS
OUT
CULTURE
PLATFORMS NOSTALGIA THROUGH GAMES
The Happy Broadcast was created in Loewe’s latest collab with legendary Animal Crossing has had an explosion
2018 by Mauro Gatti in response to Balearic boutique Paula’s Ibiza - embod- since the COVID-19 lockdown began,
the overwhelming bad news that was ies the spirit of letting go. With clear becoming the game of the moment.
taking constant front and centre in other references to nostalgia, summer holi- In a time when our news feels full or
sources. Mauro set out to use art to days and the euphoric joy of Ibiza, the horror, Animal Crossing provides a safe
spread positivity and Happy Broadcast collection combines ‘ecstatic abandon space, full of pudgy animals and whim-
exists to combat hate and fear culture is part rave, part cyberdog, in acidic sical islands. It became the number 1
by providing a weekly round up of the neons, faded olive greens, and sunrise trending game breaking record sales in
most positive news. orange.’ Notably, 40 Euros from each Japan and the UK. More than a game,
piece sold will be donated to education- it has also become a place for creativity,
PLAYS
There has been a rise in these types of al projects supporting socially vulnera- bootlegging brands, protest and dating
Instagram first positive news accounts ble children, following an initial gift of during lockdown.
including @globalpostiivenews, @ 500,000 Euros.
HOW
The 90s symbolises the dying Cloud Paint, and New Balance trainers.
days before the internet came to Now TikTok is providing insights into
fragment culture into the Monomass new emerging and constantly shift-
- Now we’re in a time where hyper ing trends. Cults are currently taking
individualism and the mass sit along- over TikTok. These cults are essentially
“It’s interesting that a lot of the side each other. We are experiencing super fandom groups who organise
a cultural barbell - where on one side together to show devotion to a single
obsession with the fetishisation of the Gen Z seek the niche and the other you TikTok creator (or ‘cult leader’). One of
90’s is being driven by Gen Z, which see global popularity break through. the most prominent being Stepchick-
ens created by Melissa Ong.
could not be a less analog generation.” Wherever you stand on it, Tiger
King became the cultural phenomenon Her 2.1 million followers refer
- LUCIE GREENE, FOUNDER, of lock down - appealing simultane- to her as the ‘Mother Hen’ and show
FUTURES THINK TANK, LIGHT YEARS ously to Gen Z’s niche tastes and the their loyalty by changing their pro-
global populous creating a hyper trend. file images to a picture that she has
Beyond Tiger King there was a moment selected. Rival cults include Babbages,
where we were all coveting the Prada The Flamingos, The Jeffs, Duck
nylon shoulder bag, wearing Glossier Sanctuary amongst others.
PAGE 146 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
SOMETHING NEED TO
GO ON TO REACH
IM
PL
O
D
IN
G
G
29th March–6th April
IN Tiger King spends 15 days as the top title on
OD
Netflix (the most days spent at number one
PL by any show or movie on the service)
EX Trending Tiger King
Beauty Looks
Reviews
The Offspring cover
Here Kitty Kitty
in lockdown
Podcasts
TV News
Instagram memes
start spreading
CULTURAL
WOM REVIEWS SOCIAL TRAD MEDIA CONTENT PARODIES SATURATION
PAGE 152 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
REVOLUTIONS >
“Contemporary culture is
being shaped by movements and
socially-led values in response to
a changing world.”
- RONOJOY DAM, GLOBAL BRAND
AND CULTURE DIRECTOR, FARFETCH
PAGE 154 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
- DOMINIC CADOGAN,
ASSISTANT EDITOR, DAZED BEAUTY
PAGE 160 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
The influence of growing up Young people are becoming 85% WOULD STOP
in a time that is fraught with issues increasingly aware of the impact of BUYING FROM A BRAND
has meant that young people are buying, which has led to the rise of IF THEY DID SOMETHING
questioning the ethics behind brands rental platforms like On.Loan.
and companies and holding them THEY THOUGHT
accountable in new ways. WAS UNETHICAL
PAGE 162 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
- DAZED AUDIENCE
PAGE 164 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
WE ASKED: WE ASKED:
WHAT WOULD MAKE YOU STOP BUYING WHEN THINKING ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENT,
FROM A BRAND? DO ANY OF THE BELOW APPLY TO YOU?
interesting because to me it disrupts a network of more than 40 members, for white America to ‘acknowledge
the whole process.’ Kone Ndlovu, key resource-sharing events have its privilege’ and the need for action
Multidisciplinary included Liberation Book Club, Political to ‘dismantle white supremacy’ (The
HOW
Education Boot Camp and 2040, a two- Washington Post, 2020). Other brands
day Art Basel 2018 program. such as Converse, Nike and Glossier
have pledged millions of dollars of
donations to racial injustice-related
organisations.
IN
community in small and large ways. are the lead character, as opposed to for Greta Thunberg’s game-changing
Kwanda is modelled on the idea of a minorities or background faces. The first school strike. As Generation Z
village, using democratic processes campaign’s success earned her a spot continues to mobilise in dynamic and
HOW
and collective effort to build a new on the Forbes 30 Under 30 list. The pas- creative ways, Margolin is at the beat-
style of social enterprise. sionate student-activist has also written ing heart of a fierce, youth-led mis-
a manifesto for youth activism (Marley sion to change the world and fights to
Dias Gets It Done and So Can You!) uplift LGBTQ+ and Indigenous voices
in the political landscape.
IN
PAGE 170 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
A NEW MODEL:
HOW TO CREATE MEANING >
ANALYSE
What do your audience How can you create How can you create
really care about? meaning for the positive change in the
communities that are world, whether that’s
IDENTIFY WHY connected to my brand? big or small?
ACT
What action can you take as a brand? Look at potential partners,
Look at your current processes and system, organisations, individuals who you
is there anything you can evolve or re-think can connect, collaborate with and
HOW TO TAKE ACTION to create radical positive change? support.
ADVOCATE
Use your brand Create an initiative Provide monetary support
voice as a platform that gives back to to individuals, charities
for others to communities and that and communities who
PROVIDE A PLATFORM spread a message. has a clear purpose. need it most.
PAGE 172 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
CULTURE
4 CULTURE... THE ELUSIVE HOLY GRAIL
THAT BRANDS ARE WORKING TO
BE PART OF. IF YOU SAY A WORD
ENOUGH TIMES IT TENDS TO LOSE
ALL MEANING. BUT CULTURE IS
ENDURING, IT UNITES US.
PAGE 174 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
of Black Futures Month. This their collections will become seasonless but anonymous to those that are in
collaboration goes beyond a hype and change to just two a year. Labels the know that then creates a unique
moment. It gives back and it drives will make fewer pieces and smaller sense of exclusivity and community.
HOW
awareness of the social injustices that collections as consumers are turned Maison Margiela was a brand praised
are still dominating the world. off by excess and turned on by making and loved by the audience also
more meaningful purchases for their known for their elusive and quiet
archive. 79% of respondents stated that brand marketing. Fred Paginton,
they are trying to buy things that they Creative Director, Dazed Studio says:
know will last them a long time. “I think you’ll see a return to low key
exclusivity.”
IN
PAGE 184 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
Pop culture was previously Japanese people have always done it’
dominated by the West. In recent - Negar Mesbah Tabatabae, Manager,
years we’ve seen a decline in this Shiro Beauty Store.
global domination and a massive
power shift. With the rise of digital China is leading the way with
technology, non-Western countries, integrated media marketing on
markets and tastes are able to freely WeChat - the platform that many
break out into the mass in new ways international brands choose to reach
and we’ve seen a boom of global the Chinese fashion community. For
expression. luxury fashion this is a key channel
to reach Gen Z, with the ability for
Korean culture has been major luxury brands to host live fash-
exploding in the West the last few ion shows all with the option to com-
years with the likes of Korean Beauty plete transactions in-app.
and K Pop firmly establishing them-
selves in the Western mainstream. We’ve also seen an increase
J-beauty (Japanese) is now set to in Latin culture in the West (Rosalía
take a massive rise - with a paired is one of the biggest artists in the
back, less is more routine that appeals world right now) as well as the rise
to consumers that are looking for of Lagos as a cultural hub. Given that
something simpler than the 10 step the average age in Nigeria is just 18
care routine of K-beauty. J-beauty and a huge 60 per cent of the popu-
speaks to many of the ideals that the lation are under the age of 25, Lagos
Western market is only just catching is a city powered by young people
up with - ‘Everything is ethical. It’s whose influential creative culture is
a new trend here (in Europe) but thriving around the globe.
PAGE 192 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
fucoidan and alginic acid. These thinking artists and creators from Asia. designer Angel Chen and Minju Kim
ingredients, and others, including anti- Fostering unprecedented East-Meets- who went on to win the series and have
aging enmei herb, antioxidant shiso West collaborations, they have amassed many items sell out on Net-A-Porter.
HOW
and brightening yuzu (all sourced over 1.6 billion YouTube views to-date
from Japan) have found their way and have met critical acclaim.
into beauty products worldwide.
IN
PAGE 194 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
A SET OF PRINCIPLES:
HOW TO START A TREND >
WHILE SOME FACTORS ARE OUT OF OUR CONTROL
THERE ARE ALSO SOME KEY PRINCIPLES YOU CAN
APPLY TO GIVE YOUR CONTENT OR CONCEPT
THE BEST POSSIBLE CHANCE OF CATCHING ON:
REPETITION
& ANALYSIS
Repeatability of content is
DISTRIBUTE key. The power lies in when
your audience can take your
Identify the right creation forward in their own
distribution channels interpretation.
to ultimately create
WOM
TARGET
DISTILL
Innovators and Early
Make your idea easy Adopters - through
to understand and psychographics not
ensure that it feeds demographicsæ
a human need
CREATE
Conduct research
to understand your
audience and how best
to land your message.
PAGE 196 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
5
THIS SECTION LOOKS AT THE
ROLE MODELS INFLUENCING
GEN Z AND MILLENNIALS
AND WHY THESE PEOPLE
ARE SHAPING CULTURE.
WHAT ARE THE BEHAVIOURS
AND PRINCIPLES NEEDED TO
ROLE
BECOME A ROLE MODEL AND
ICON FOR TOMORROW?
MODELS
PAGE 198 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
The era of ‘influencers’ as we solidarity with Black Lives Matter. It is has been turned on its head now;
know it is over. The Cambridge dic- clear that influencer’s now have great the air, the food and the water we
tionary definition being; ‘a person responsibility and many are unable to need to survive are critical. In light of
who is paid by a company to show empathise and deliver considered and this, what we require from our lead-
and describe its products and services meaningful content. ers has also shifted. It’s about provid-
on social media, encouraging other ing the tools and initiatives that help
people to buy them.’ In an age where audiences the most in-need to survive.
need to connect with something real,
COVID-19 and the Black Lives which cuts through the clutter and The Dazed 100 provides us
Matter movement have shifted mind- counteracts the lies we’ve been fed, with a blueprint for the leaders of
sets and made us question the values it’s no wonder that cancel culture has tomorrow. The platform is a reflec-
and models on which our society become a complex and unavoidable tion of who is influencing culture
operates. Celebrities and influencers phenomenon and that the relatable, and provides insight for the behav-
have faced an overwhelming back- DIY content creators of TikTok are iours of the next generation of
lash as both of these events expose resonating with younger audiences. icons. Each individual has a mission
the lack of meaning and substance in to make the world a better place.
influencers’ ‘paid for’ actions and in With increasing distrust and There is substance and meaning
ultra-rich celebrities’ insensitive and lack of leadership from governments to their contribution to society that
self-indulgent social videos. Recent and institutions, paired with a dying goes deeper than an image or push-
insensitivity saw a number of influenc- planet and pandemic, we need icons ing a product for self promotion and
ers doing blackface (painting half their who put social and common good gain. It’s about community, cause
faces black) in an attempt to show first. Maslow’s hierarchy of needs and purpose.
PAGE 206 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
— Dazed Audience
William
Beyoncé
Billie Eilish
Greta Thunberg
Flexmami
‘Trump, Boris Johnson,
Bolsonaro, unfortunately.’
Enjajaja
Kim Kardashian — Dazed Audience
Rupaul
Joji
David Attenborough
Rihanna
Margaret Zhang
‘Kylie Jenner, a lot of young girls look up to her, which is not
a good thing considering what she shows on social media.
For example: having a huge impact on how young women
Frank Ocean
Virgil Abloh
G Dragon
Donald Trump
Kanye West
Norman Freeman
PAGE 214 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
Gone is the era of glossy life- We still need role models we can
styles, false pretences and keeping up aspire to, but our idea of aspirational
with appearances. The new normal has shifted. We need moral leaders
applies to more than just our way of who have meaning beyond aesthetics
living as we come out of the COVID- and the driving power of capitalism.
19 pandemic. It defines the behav- They need to be advocates for social
iours of our new leaders. change. Our new heroes are Greta
Thunberg, Emma Gonzalez and the
healthcare workers we clapped for
during lockdown. The heroes that
could and should be found on the
covers of Time Magazine.
PAGE 218 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
Our experts and community are about not knowing all of the answers
calling for a fundamental behavioural but make the necessary decisions to
shift from our leaders. Where they drive change. We need real icons,
can hold up their hands, admit when with their flaws and all.
they’re wrong and can be honest
PAGE 224 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
RELATABLE
DECISIVE
“Petra Collins, I adore “I like Girlgaze: they help
EXPERTS her ethereal photography. promote new and upcoming
She’s raw, honest and pushes female talent, creating a
the boundaries.” support network and
AUTHENTIC job opportunities for
- DAZED AUDIENCE
community members.”
COMPASSIONATE - DAZED AUDIENCE
DEPENDABLE
PAGE 226 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
- THOMAS GORTON,
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, DAZED
PAGE 228 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
HOW DO YOU
CUT THROUGH ?
PAGE 230 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
70%
68%
50%
45%
35%
Of people say
Instagram is the
most influential
platform in
culture
Of people say
books have a
major influence REAL HEROES
Of people say on forming and
that checking changing their
6%
reviews opinions
influence their
purchase
Of people say decisions and
Of people that online 44% believe
believe a brand publications friends influence PURPOSEFUL ICONS
Of people having a point their purchasing
have the biggest
would stop of view makes decisions Of people
influence on Beyoncé
buying from a them influential believe they are
their opinions Rihanna
brand if they influenced by
Kanye West
did something influencers with
Billie Eilish
unethical 100k+ followers
PAGE 232 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
RISING >
BRANDS WITH A CLEAR POINT
OF VIEW AND AUDIENCE
UNDERSTANDING
NON-WESTERN
INFLUENCE
QUALITY CONTENT
CROSS INDUSTRY OVER QUANTITY
AND MEDIUM
COLLABORATIONS
NICHE ALONGSIDE
MAINSTREAM
GEN Z
LEADERS
INFLUENCE THE
MANIFESTO
PAGE 236 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
If the 2010s was a decade of obfuscation, the 20s Relevance will only be achieved if you can add
must be the era of truth. COVID-19 has sharpened realness to their lives. Then, stay true to them whilst
our focus on who and what really matters, and knowing you can’t please the entire universe. Not
drained our tolerance levels for lying politicians, everyone needs your brand, and you don’t need
desperate influencers, and tone-deaf brands. every person.
HOW CAN
BRANDS
APPLY THIS ?
PAGE 240 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
1
IT STARTS INTERNALLY. HAVE
DIVERSE VOICES IN THE ROOM.
What is your internal What education do you offer
culture? internally around diversity,
management and empathy?
How diverse are the
employees within your
company and senior
Are there any internal
structures you could change “Brands need to change
management roles? to help promote social good?
their a#itude first, like we might throw
a million dollars at this and nothing
will come out of it and that’s ok…
become a patron and support.”
- KONE NDLOVU, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
2 3
ADOPT THE BEHAVIOURS UNDERSTAND YOUR
OF REAL HEROES. AUDIENCES NEEDS.
AS A BRAND, ADOPT A Question the values of Who is your What are their
LIST OF PRINCIPLES THAT individuals and institutions target audience? interests cross category?
MAKE YOU AN HONEST you work with.
AND OPEN INSTITUTION. What do they care about? What motivates
Do their values ladder up and inspires them?
to your own?
PAGE 244 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
4 6
HAVE A POINT OF VIEW AND BE
BE CONSISTENT. EMPATHETIC.
HAVING A CLEAR POINT OF What do you offer INVEST IN LEARNING HOW How much do you place
VIEW THAT’S ARTICULATED that no one else does? TO BE EMPATHETIC AND yourself outside of your
AND UNDERSTOOD SPREAD THIS ACROSS comfort zone?
INTERNALLY IS CRUCIAL. Who is your core audience? YOUR BRAND.
How many different people
What is your personality are you speaking to on
and style of communication? a daily basis?
5 7
THINK LONG TERM RATHER QUESTION EVERYTHING
THAN SHORT TERM. AND QUESTION IT AGAIN.
MEANINGFUL MISSIONS What is your long term vision? A REACTIVE RESPONSE How many people have sense
TAKE TIME. CAN OFTEN BE checked this?
What is your roadmap DANGEROUS.
and the key steps to achieve How diverse are these people?
your goal?
Are you creating something
that is thought through from
all perspectives?
8 10
BE BRAVE LOOK WHERE NO ONE ELSE
AND RADICAL. IS LOOKING.
YOU CAN BE BOLD WITHOUT What would never Who is not currently Where are the places
BEING REACTIONARY. consider doing? represented in and stories that no one
mainstream media? is aware of?
What would be the worst
and best things you could do, What are the subcultures
budget no option? (this can or areas of culture that
feed creativity) aren’t being explored?
9 11
THINK BEYOND YOUR EXPERIMENT WITH NEW
OWN PROFIT. KINDS OF CAMPAIGNS.
IT’S LONG OVERDUE What can you do to provide What are other What has meaning
TO RETHINK THE value beyond monetary mediums or ways of to your audience?
TRADITIONAL CAMPAIGN. reward? communicating a story?
How can you make your
What other kinds What platforms do your audience participators
of currency can you create? audience use? rather than just an
observers?
How can you involve your
audience in your brand in
new ways?
PAGE 248 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
- RONOJOY DAM,
GLOBAL BRAND AND CULTURE DIRECTOR FARFETCH
PAGE 250 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
”A new creative chapter to ”I hope that things turn “We’re all in this together. “It’s good to readdress how
rethink and reemerge how we around for the be#er. Within And I think people will start we work, our lifestyles,
can take everything we know the entertainment and music question things a$er, and traveling, and living in a city
and have learned and process industry, we realise how make sure they’re much more actually doesn’t have to be
it in a new way. A way that is much of a role we can play prepared and also realise that so tiresome in a way… it gives
a more conscious, a human in making people happy, and it’s not just about the ‘Gram’ us carte blanche for a new
way of creating.” how blessed we are for being essentially, you know?” generation, a new kind of life
able to upload and share with time for stuff.”
-SIMONE ROCHA, - AHMAD SWAID, HEAD OF
FASHION DESIGNER something that people love.” CONTENT, DAZED
- FRED PAGINTON, CREATIVE
DIRECTOR, DAZED STUDIO
- SEAN MIYASHIRO, CEO AND
FOUNDER OF 88RISING
”We’ve all been starved
of realness and connection.
“I would love it if there was a ”Our artists are vital at I hope we’re not going back to
return to a faith in the printed this time - they dream the this a$er the pandemic passes ”You’ll have this incredible
page, you know, where there future for us - they create the snap for Instagram culture. reinvention and innovation
always seems to be a higher roadmap for us to get out of Go to a club and get drunk that we’ll see particularly in
quality whenever you’ve had here - they can provide hope and sweaty and don’t care if the world of entertainment.”
to go through some kind of in a time of hopelessness.” our phone is there and just
physical mechanical effort.” really live it.” - RACHEL BOTSMAN, AUTHOR
AND OXFORD UNIVERSITY
- JEFFERSON HACK, CREATIVE TRUST FELLOW
- KONE NDLOVU, DIRECTOR AND CO-FOUNDER -GEORGINA HARDING, TREND
MULTIDISCIPLINARY OF DAZED MEDIA FORECASTER, CONSULTANT AND
CO-FOUNDER OF SEMAINE
THE END
CREDITS >
81%
“I would like to see more critical points “Taking a conscious effort to realise
of view to redesign the dynamic most brands needs to change
between culture and the economy the way they produce, not just in
SUPPORT FOR THEIR EMPLOYEES as we know it.” terms of quantity but their actions
environmentally.”
73%
“Transparency.”
SUPPORT FOR KEY WORKERS “To see fast fashion brands produce
AND VULNERABLE PEOPLE less new things and have a scheme
for repurposing the existing clothing
“Creative projects to make people from the brand e.g dead stock,
74%
understand the power of community second hand garments.”
and most importantly, the power of
FUNDS TO SUPPORT communication.”
YOUNG CREATIVES
“Make a real effort to help
“I believe this is a key moment to the environment, not only
reshape the way we think about culture
37%
greenwash.”
and capital: access to it, the roles
institutions, brands and companies
CONTENT THAT ENTERTAINS ME have within it... With a whole system
collapsing (or showing signs of it)
I believe is time for the ones holding
power to give space for a cultural
30%
and social change.”
RE-CLAIM THE BLOCK NO NEW JAILS NYC
https://www.reclaimtheblock.org https://www.nonewjails.nyc/donate
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Figure Gang by Aidan Zamiri, Arlo Parks by Aidan Zamiri, Beabadoobee by Aidan Zamiri, Ancuta Sarca by Aidan Zamiri, West image, by Kanye West by Kanye West
styled by Rebecca Perlmutar styled by Rebecca Perlmutar styled by Rebecca Perlmutar styled by Rebecca Perlmutar
Dazed Spring Summer 20 Dazed Spring Summer 20 Dazed Spring Summer 20 Dazed Spring 20, by Zora Yeezy Sunday Service, via adidas x Yeezy BOOST 350 Kanye West ‘Cruel Summer’ Kanye West in Runaway
by Harmony Koine styled by by Rosie Marks, styled by by Rosie Marks, styled by Sicher, styled by Sabina @zzzammel lookbook, by Rita Minissi premiere by DONDA Studio & (2010)
Emma Wyman Charlotte Roberts Charlotte Roberts Schreder 2 x 4 Studio
Dazed Spring Summer 20 Dazed Winter 19 by Pascal Dazed Spring/Summer 20, Tori Dazed Autumn Winter 18 by Kanye West by Evan Agostini, FKA Twigs ‘MAGDALENE’ FKA Twigs ‘Honey Boy’ FKA twigs performs at
by Joshua Gordon, styled by Gambarte styled by Ai West by Aidan Zamiri, styled Wolfgang Tillmans, styled by Invision AP/ Shutterstock album press image premiere by Gary Gershoff The Fox Theater in Oakland,
Rapahel Hirsch Kamoshita by Rebecca Perlmutar Danny Reed by Jane Hu
Dazed Spring Summer 20 by Dazed Spring Summer 19 by Yeezy Home, by Kanye West Kanye West Sunday Service, i-D no. 357, FKA Twigs by Pitchfork, FKA Twigs by Ronan FKA Twigs practicing martial The Soul Of The Modern
Sam Nixon styled by Marcus Joyce Ng by Liam MacRae Willy Vanderperre, styling Mckenzie arts, by Nick Walker Rhythm Machine, via
Cuffie Alastair McKimm musicplayers.com
PAGE 268 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
Dazed Autumn Winter 2019, Patti Smith, by Annie Eco-Fiction by John Stadler Charli XCX ‘how i’m feeling Carlings Digital Collection, Dazed Spring/ Summer 20, Dazed S/S 20, Aidan Zamiri, Dazed Spring Summer 20 by
by Paolo Roversi, styling Leibovitz, courtesy of Pirelli now’ album artwork (2020) Cloud Puffer by Roxy Lee, styled by Ogun Self Portrait, styled by Rosie Marks
Robbie Spencer Gortan Rebecca Perlmutar
Phillip Ramey/Corbis via Getty Dazed Spring/ Summer 20, Dazed Spring/ Summer 20, Dazed Winter 18 by Dean Dazed Winter 18 by Dean Dazed S/S 20, by Aidan Zamiri, Courtesy of the Bytehouse Still from ‘Moo’ Doja Cat, SME
Images by Roxy Lee, styled by Ogun by Roxy Lee, styled by Ogun Davis, Styled by Ai Kamoshita Davis, Styled by Ai Kamoshita styled by Rebecca Perlmutar
Gortan Gortan
PAGE 270 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
Dazed Beauty issue 0 cover, Dazed Spring Summer 20 Dazed Spring Summer 20 by Dazed Winter 19 by Ben Toms, Paula’s Ibiza x Loewe Summer Valentino Fall 2020 look, Dazed S/S 20, Ana Takahishi Dazed Spring Summer 20 by
by Dario Alva and Travis by Rosie Marks, styled by Sam Nixon styled by Marcus styled by Robbie Spencer 2020 campaign, by Gray Reference Berlin’s Animal by Aidan Zamiri, styling Rosie Marks
Brothers Charlotte Roberts Cuffie Sorrenti Crossing fashion runway Rebecca Perlmutar
Dazed Summer 19 by Hart Dazed Spring 20 by Brianna Dazed Winter 18 by Ari Dazed Spring Summer 20 by Photography by Felicity Dazed Spring 20 by Anton Dazed Winter 19, by Sam Dazed Winter 19, by Sam
Leshkina, Styled by Emma Capozzi, styled by Emma Marcopoulos, styled by Avena Bharat Sikka, styled by Ameet Ingram Gottlob, styled by Emma Nixon, styled by Alison Marie Nixon, styled by Alison Marie
Wyman Wyman Gallagher Wyman Isbell Isbell
Dazed Spring 20 by Thistle New York Times Magazine, Tyler the Creator via Instagram Dazed Beauty Witch Week by F(F)empower by Nicole Courtesy of Jermaine Craig Dazed Spring 20 Jamie Margolin by Bryant
Brown, styled by Andrew The Music Issue, March 2020 @feliciathegoat Till Janz Combeau Photographer Fisher, artwork by Callum
Sauceda Stylist Abbott
Dazed Spring Summer 20 Dazed Spring 20 by Brianna Dazed Summer 19 by Charlie The Happy Broadcast Dazed Spring 20 by Brianna Dazed Spring Summer 20 Telfar by Caleb Krivoshey Backstage at Gucci AW20, By
by Rosie Marks, styled by Capozzi, styled by Emma Engman, styled by Stella Capozzi, styled by Rosie Marks, styled by courtesy of Gap Giacomo Cabrini
Charlotte Roberts Wyman Greenspan by Emma Wyman Charlotte Roberts
PAGE 272 THE ERA OF MONOMASS
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2020 by Tyrone Lebon Sam Nixon, styled by Marcus Motoyuki Daifu, Styled by Ai @shiro_japan Vanderperre styled by Robbie Gambarte styled by Ai
Cuffie Kamoshita Spencer Kamoshita
Fenty x ASAI, courtesy Dazed Spring Summer 20 Dazed Winter 19, by Anton Dazed 100 2020, Dazed &
of Fenty by Harmony Korine styled Gottlob, styled by Rebecca Converse
by Emma Wyman Perlmutar
Dazed Autumn 19 by Charlotte courtesy of Jazmin Bean by Dazed Spring 2020 LA Timpa Dazed Spring Summer 18 by
Wales, styled by Tom Daniel Mutton by Pascal Gambarte, styled by Fumi Nagasaka
Guinness Tamara Rothstein
KiCk i Album Cover by Carlos Courtesy of Donte Colley Agusta Yr via Instagram Dazed Summer 2018 by
Sáez, Carlota Guerrero, and @iceicebabyspice Hannah Moon, styled by
Arca Agata Belcen
DAZED
MEDIA