(Domestic Arts For Crafty Girls) Brennan, Sheila - One-Piece Wearables - Cut, Fold, and Sew Techniques For Making Chic Garments From A Single Pattern Piece-Quarry Books (2008)

ONE-PIECE
Wearable s
ONE-PIECE
Wearables
25 Chic Garments and Accessories
to Sew from Single-Pattern Pieces
SHEILA BRENNAN
© 2008 by Quarry Books
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in
any form without written permission of the copyright own-
ers. All images in this book have been reproduced with the
knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no
responsibility is accepted by the producer, publisher, or printer
for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from
the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made
to ensure that credits accurately comply with information
supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have
occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in
a subsequent reprinting of the book.
First published in the United States of America by
Quarry Books, a member of
Quayside Publishing Group
100 Cummings Center, Suite 406-L
Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101
Telephone: (978) 282-9590
Fax: (978) 283-2742
www.quarrybooks.com
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Brennan, Sheila.
One-piece wearables : 25 chic garments and accessories to
sew from single-pattern pieces /
Sheila Brennan.
p. cm.
ISBN 1-59253-344-2
1. Sewing. 2. Dressmaking—Patterns. I. Title.
TT713.B72 2008
646.4’04—dc22
207051290
CIP
ISBN-13: 978-1-59253-344-2
ISBN-10: 1-59253-344-2
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Design: Everlution Design
All illustrations by Sheila Brennan, with the exception of pages
130; 135; 136; 137 (top & bottom ); 138; 139 and 140 (top &
middle, right) by Heather Lambert and pages 132
(bottom, right) & 133 by Michael Wanke.
Technical Editing: Marla Stefanelli
Pattern Grading: Isabelle Lott of Pattern Works Int’l LLC
Printed in China Fun-in-the-Sun Dress, pg 112

chapter 3
68 ...... party time
Contents 68 ............... Flared Circle Tops

74 ............... Triangle Top
78 ............... Rectangle Bolero
82 ............... Fitted Little Jacket
86 ............... Circle-of-Friends Skirt
6 ...... introduction 90 ............... Pleated Dress
94 ............... Pleated Puffball Skirt
8 ...... design inspiration
100 ............... Weekly Circular: Bell-Shaped Hat
12 ...... fashionable fabrics 104 ............... Envelope Clutch
chapter 1 chapter 4
16 ...... girl about town 108 ...... summer flair
16 ............... Halter Top Chic 108 ............... Beach Cover-Up
20 ............... Pouch-Pocket Top 1 1 2 ............... Fun-in-the-Sun Dress
26 ............... Window-Shopping Dress 1 1 6 ............... Bikini
32 ............... Cape with Inverted 122 ............... Halter Wrap
Back Pleat & Poncho 126 ............... Basket Bag
38 ............... Wraparound Miniskirt
42 ............... Carry-All Alter-Ego Bag
46 ............... Hooded Scarf with Pockets chapter 5
130 ...... personalizing your pieces
chapter 2 130 .............. Getting Creative with Embellishment
134 .............. Basic Sewing Tools
50 ...... sunday brunch
134 .............. Simple Sewing Techniques
50 ............... Lounge-Around Robe 139 .............. Finishing Techniques
56 ............... T-Shaped Tunic 142 .............. Resources
60 ............... Strappy Dress 143 .............. About the Author
64 ............... Gathered Apron 144 .............. Acknowledgments
6 one-piece wearables
Introduction
There’s nothing like the thrill i get from designing and making my own clothes.
Except maybe the satisfaction when someone tells me she loves what I’m wearing
and asks where I got it! For some reason, the reaction is usually a sound of surprise
and wistful envy when I mention I made it. Making clothes used to be an essential
skill that most women learned as they grew up. A sewing machine was a practical
tool, and a percentage of every woman’s life was spent in front of it. In today’s world,
the majority of us have busy lifestyles and not much time to spend on making
clothes. But, those of you who have made and worn your own creations know what
a pleasure it is to wear something that reflects your individual style.
Why make your own clothes? Fashion is more available than ever before. But, despite
the trendy chain stores offering collection after collection, they cannot compete
with the versatility of choosing your own design, fabric, notions, and other acces-
sories. Knowing that you went to the trouble of pulling all the ingredients together
and worked on something to completion is unbeatable. And you’ll look great wearing
clothes perfectly tailored to your body.
Each project in this book has one pattern piece. That’s right—just one! Through the
years, friends have wanted to learn to make simple clothing that fits great and takes
very little time to construct. I’ve noticed that even for more experienced sewers, the
time it takes to cut out numerous pattern pieces, pin them together, and assemble
the garment is too time consuming for their busy lives. Having to cut out many
pattern pieces can make you hesitant about making something to wear for Saturday
night. This book is a collection of garments and accessories I’ve designed with
simplicity in mind.
7
I’ve tried and tested every project many times in all sorts of fabrics. Each garment
featured is made by folding, twisting, and tying a single fabric piece in various ways.
The fabric chosen will affect the way the garment falls on the body, allowing end-
less options with each pattern. Every piece can be worn multiple ways and in many
combinations with other pieces. Just a few simple patterns can provide endless style
variations and create an all-purpose wardrobe for any occasion. Regardless of your
budget, you can create striking, stylish looks that flatter your figure and allow you
more time to spend wearing them!
These patterns are for those who have a passion, desire, or curiosity to create their
own clothes. And remember, easy and quick-to-make does not mean amateur-looking
results. Simplicity can be striking, beautiful, and sexy. You can make designer clothes
that don’t look homemade.
I will show you how to take the twenty-five projects in this book and become your
own fashion designer, starting with the design process that every fashion designer
goes through. The included garments are grouped by lifestyle categories that most
women can relate to. You’ll be able to adapt and individualize every look to work for
your figure, so you’ll feel great wearing them. Pattern pieces in multiple sizes (small,
medium, and large) for fifteen of the projects are enclosed in the envelope at the
front of the book.
The projects in this book are intended for everyone from beginners to the most expe-
rienced sewers. The one-pattern-garment concept is a simple, creative, and fashion-
able way to build or add to an existing wardrobe. Although I appreciate (and drool
over) haute couture garments, which are made by skilled seamstresses over several
weeks, I am inspired to make quick pieces I can wear the same day.
Simplicity is something of which we need more in today’s busy world. An easy one-
piece pattern and beautiful fabric in a color or print that flatters is a good way to start
making clothes simpler.
Design
Ins piration
My love for sewing and simple patterns started many The Design Process, or How to Be
years ago. I grew up in a home filled with fabric. Every
closet contained fabric left over from finished projects
Your Own Fashion Designer
or those waiting to come to life. As a little girl I would Everyone can be her own fashion designer. Typically,
sit mesmerized, watching my mother sew. Cutting out fashion designers are creative people who have their
the pattern fascinated me the most. The paper patterns own unique way of getting to an end result. To be your
seemed like a puzzle. It was magical how those pattern own designer, you will craft and hone a similar process
pieces were laid out on the fabric in a special way. I until you have the satisfaction of wearing a garment
understood that their placement on the fabric would you designed and made. Creativity generates ideas and
affect how the finished garment would fit and hang on motivation to make something. How you get there is
the body. I began making clothes for all my dolls by up to you. Here are some starter points and things to
tying pieces of fabric on them in different ways, and consider along your path.
then hand sewing.
My appetite for luxury fabrics was soon whetted. My Inspiration

mother eventually took me to the local bridal shop, The fashion design process starts with inspiration.
where they generously gave me bags of (fabulous) Inspiration could be colors or textures in a painting, or
eveningwear fabric scraps and swatches. I was so even something abstract, such as a feeling provoked by
impressed by all those ladies surrounded by fabric, pat- a photograph. It could be a collection of vintage fabrics.
terns, and whirring sewing machines. What a delight Sometimes inspiration might be two or more seemingly
for a young girl! I was hooked on chiffon, duchess satin, disparate elements that work together. Many times I’m
georgette, and all sorts of sparkly treats. It wasn’t long inspired by the way other cultures use fabric. Years ago,
before I started using the sewing machine and drafting on a trip to Peru, I was captivated by the combination
my own simple patterns. of bright colors used in traditional clothing. I was there
during the summer months when the landscape had
Throughout my career in fashion design and pattern-
been dulled from the heat and lack of rain. When hiking
making, I have held on to my sense of practicality.
along rural dirt paths, I was delighted by the sight of
While working with factories to develop clothing
local women and children dressed in bright magenta,
collections, I’ve always aimed to simplify designs and
crimson, and cobalt blue.
patterns, focusing on shaped, simple silhouettes.
design inspiration 9
The projects in this book were inspired on some level

from ethnic forms of dress and draping cloth. In many
countries cloth is considered sacred, and the fabric
is cut as little as possible, or not at all, while making
traditional garments.
Mood or Theme
Once you’ve found your inspiration, make a mood or
theme board to help keep you focused. Look for images
in magazines or on the Internet. Sometimes flipping
through a magazine (not necessarily fashion oriented)
can spark an idea for a fabric color, texture, or shape
you’d like to try in garment form. Pin or glue your im-
ages, fabric swatches, and anything else that inspires
you to a piece of card or stiff paper. I prefer to use foam
core board, a type of card found in art supply stores. I
also have files of clipped images for quick inspiration.
mood board | A mood evokes feeling or inspiration.

Look for images with color, texture, or print, which set
the tone for your garment.
theme board | A theme could be a story line or

style direction you wish to explore. Some examples are
ethnic fashion, sports style, a vintage era, and so on.
A mood board or theme board is a pastiche of design ideas.

Silhouette Fashion Icons: Trend Inspiration

The next step is deciding on the silhouette. Use the col-
If fashion design is truly a creative process, how can
lection in this book as a starting point. Choose one, and
we predict where the style direction will go? To some
after testing the pattern and seeing how it fits, don’t be
degree, we can’t. But fashion has historically repeated
afraid to customize the garment!
itself, making trend spotting both an art and science.
French couturier Paul Poiret, whose innovative designs

Fabric
changed the way women dressed in the 1910s, was one
To begin, find a fabric suitable for the garment you
of the first designers to incorporate themed inspira-
wish to make and that looks great next to your hair and
tion in his clothing. His interpretation of the Russian
skin. When buying the fabric, make sure to hold it up
Ballet marked a directional change in silhouette, freeing
to your face and look in a mirror to see how it flatters
women from painfully tight corsets in favor of loose,
your complexion. Finding a color or print that looks
flowing Asian-inspired clothing.
great on you will help motivate you to complete and
wear your garment. You don’t want to spend money on In the 1920s and 1930s, a French designer named
fabric, transform it into a garment or accessory, only Madeleine Vionnet (one of my personal favorites)
to discover that it doesn’t enhance your skin tone. I explored cutting patterns on the fabric bias. She used
believe the colors we wear affect our moods, so choose geometry-based simple patterns and minimal pattern
something that makes you feel happy and look beautiful. pieces to create extraordinary garments by twisting
and pleating the fabric to fall on the body in different
ways. Recognized as one of the first designers to free
Finishing Touches
women from corseted silhouettes, Vionnet believed
Finish your garment as neatly as possible. Often, this
that women’s clothing should celebrate the body
is determined by the amount of time you can spend
instead of distorting it. She was inspired by Greek, Ro-
on the project. It’s important to press at each stage of
man, and medieval styles, which are known for simple
construction, neatly finish all seams and hems, and tie
fabric cuts and interesting folding techniques.
and trim all thread ends. By taking extra care with the
finishing, you will have a professional-looking garment,
which will fit better and last longer. If you are in a hurry
to finish up and get out the door, at least tie and trim
thread ends. Otherwise, you might find yourself coming
apart at the seams while on the dance floor!
A modern fashion innovator is Japanese-born Issey

Miyake. He has continuously explored new technology,
Cut and Wear: Issey Miyake
with the ultimate aim of allowing freedom of move- In recent years, Issey Miyake has developed a
ment and artistic expression. His clothing has been conceptual clothing manufacturing process for
referred to as sculpture, and he is renowned for his ex- seamless garments, simplifying how clothing can
tensive exploration of pleating fabrics in ways to create be made. Miyake’s innovations have effectively
geometric garments that change the body silhouette. merged technology and mass production with
Miyake’s pleated garments are first cut and sewn much custom-fit fashions, for all shapes and sizes.
larger than the calculated finished size. Once complete,
Issey Miyake’s novel system of garment construc-
garments are placed between layers of paper and
tion is called APOC, which stands for A Piece of
individually hand fed into a heat-press machine. When
Cloth. In essence, thread is fed into computerized
they come out, the garments have been permanently
machinery resembling a fabric loom, and clothing
pleated into shape. Miyake experiments with horizon-
comes out the other end as a roll of tubular fabric.
tal, vertical and zigzag pleating, resulting in textured
The knit garments and accessories are ready to
three dimensional shapes. The pleated garments may
wear—it’s only necessary to cut the printed or
appear delicate, but they are usually machine wash-
embossed outline around each piece—no sewing
able, air dry very quickly, and don’t need to be ironed.
required. Customizing is encouraged, and instruc-
Regardless of style, designers have always covered the tions for turning a dress into a top or a skirt are
body using the same principles to cut and sew pattern included. Wearers can cut sleeve and body length
pieces together to fit the body. to fit their individual needs.
Fashionable
Fabrics
Choosing fabric is an exciting part of making your Nonwoven fabrics, such as felt or polar fleece, are
own clothes and accessories. You may fall in love with made from fibers that are compressed or entangled,
a fabric at first sight, but it might not be suitable for and fixed together using heat and pressure. These
the project at hand. Fabrics, like people, have different
fabrics are available in a variety of thicknesses and
personalities and may behave in ways you might not
expect. Understanding fabric weave, weight, and fiber textures. No edge finishing is necessary because they
content will decipher these behaviors and help you do not ravel when cut.
make the best choice for each project. Of course that
Knits are composed of interlocking yarn loops that form
doesn’t mean you can’t bring home the fabric you fell
in love with—it will be perfect for another project! a fabric that stretches both horizontally and vertically,
such as rib knit, jersey, and interlock.
Fabric Construction
There are three types of fabrics: wovens, nonwovens,
and knits.
lengthwise grain
Woven fabrics are constructed on looms by interlac-
ing vertical and horizontal threads. The fabric grain
s
bia
refers to the thread directions. The lengthwise grain, or

selvage
straight of grain, is parallel to the selvages. The cross-
wise grain is perpendicular to the selvages. Bias grain
is on the diagonal or at a 45-degree angle to the woven
threads (a).
Woven fabric has little or no lengthwise or crosswise
stretch, although it has varying degrees of stretch
when pulled on the bias. Some modern woven fabrics
crosswise grain
do have stretch, which is accomplished by weaving
synthetic elastic fibers (such as Lycra) with the thread.
(a) Fabric grain diagram

Selecting Your Fabric Fiber Content

Natural-fiber fabrics, which are derived from plants or
First, determine whether the project calls for a woven,
animals, include the all-time-favorite cotton, as well as
nonwoven, or knit fabric, and then evaluate the fabric
more luxurious silk, wool, cashmere, and linen. Man-
based on the following qualities.
made synthetic fabrics include polyester, nylon, acrylic,
acetate, and Lycra. Natural and man-made fibers are
Fabric Weight blended together to enhance the qualities of each fiber
Each garment or accessory calls for a light-, medium-, and come in endless combinations. For example, cot-
or heavyweight fabric. Review the suggested fabrics ton/polyester fabric is comfortable to wear and wrinkles
along with the instructions. Generally, tops, dresses, less than 100 percent cotton.
and skirts are made from lighter-weight fabrics, and
A fabric’s fiber content should suit the garment’s pur-
jackets and accessories are made from heavier-weight
pose. For example, a beach cover-up should be made
fabrics. (For more on fabric weights, see Fabric 101
from a breathable fabric, such as cotton, rather than
on page 15.)
one that traps heat, such as polyester.
Appearance and Drape

The manner in which threads are woven together Fabric Selection Guidelines
denotes the type of weave. Satin, oxford, twill, and
bouclé are different types of fabric weaves. A fabric’s When an inspiring fabric triggers a must-have feeling,
weave affects its appearance and drape. Unroll a here are some rules of thumb to follow.
length from the bolt and feel the fabric. Fold a corner
Buy about three yards (or meters) of fabric at a time
of the fabric—does it fold softly, or is it stiff and crisp?
to ensure there will be enough for an average-size
Pinch the fabric—does it hold a sharp crease or not?
garment. The trick is to remember you have the fabric
Hold a length of the fabric against your body. Does it
next time a project is being planned. Snip swatches
keep its shape, or does it drape smoothly over curves
from all your fabrics and tack them to a bulletin board
and contours?
or arrange them in a binder for easy reference. It is also
For all garments and accessories, the fabric’s proper- helpful to note the yardage amount and the laundry-
ties are considered in the design. A top designed to care instructions.
drape into soft folds should not be constructed from
a stiff fabric, such as taffeta.
Always review the fabric’s care instructions when Vintage Fabric

purchasing and before sewing a garment. Is the fabric
Look for unique vintage fabrics when shopping at flea
machine washable or only hand washable? Can it be
markets, yard sales, or online venues. When making
tumble dried, or will it need to be laid out flat and air
small garments and accessories, consider harvesting
dried? Does the fabric require dry-cleaning? If you
fabric from slightly damaged (but fabulous) retro or
make a top that will be worn frequently, it should not
vintage garments.
be sewn from high-maintenance fabric that can only be
dry-cleaned. Always launder any secondhand fabric to eliminate
odors, excess starch, or stains before sewing with it.
Keep the garment design in mind when fabric shopping.
Test a small fabric swatch (such as a piece from the
If a dress features intricate details, avoid busy prints
inside hem) by soaking it in cool water to make sure it
that will distract from the craftsmanship. Instead, look
is colorfast. If it isn’t colorfast, be sure to launder it only
for a solid color, or a more toned-down discreet print.
with similar colors. Most cotton fabrics can be machine
A simply constructed garment is a better showcase for
washed on the gentle cycle, using a mild soap.
a dynamic print.
If you are not sure the fabric is washable, cut a
Fabric usually shrinks a small amount when a garment
6” (15 cm) square and launder it. After it is removed
is first washed. Depending on the fabric type, the
from the dryer, press, and measure it again. Is it still
shrinkage rate ranges from 1 to 5 percent. To avoid a
6” (15 cm) square? Did it fade? Did it ravel excessively?
too-tight fit and puckered seams, always prewash the
If satisfied with the results, preshrink the entire yardage
fabric before beginning a project. Dry-clean-only fabric
in the same manner.
should be steamed only or processed by a dry cleaner.
Most wool and silk fabrics can be soaked in cool water
for up to 30 minutes with a gentle detergent such as
Woolite, Lux soapflakes, or a mild shampoo.
Fabric 101: An Introduction to the Fabrics in This Book

One of the challenges of designing and making clothes Mediumweight fabric, with a fabric weight of 5.5 oz
is learning how to pair the pattern with a fabric that (156 g), refers to versatile fabrics, generally used for
flatters the figure and enhances the silhouette. Over skirts, pants, and some accessories. Depending on the
time, experienced sewers develop the skill for choosing style, mediumweight fabrics can also be used for light
fabrics that work well with patterns, but beginners jackets and some dresses. Examples of mediumweight
will benefit from these simple guidelines to ensure fabrics include canvas, denim, gabardine, taffeta,
great results. and twill.
Understanding fabric weight and drape is an essential Heavyweight fabric, with a fabric weight of 7.1 oz
skill, which will be honed with every project created. (201 g), refers to thicker fabrics used for some skirts,
Each piece in this book is accompanied by suggestions pants, outerwear, and accessories. These are also
for suitable fabrics, including notes on fabric weight described as bottom fabrics. Examples of heavyweight
and drape. Consider these guidelines when shopping fabrics include Donegal tweed, duck cloth, heavy cotton
for or selecting fabric. Also take into account the season canvas, herringbone wool, and wool/cashmere blends.
and situation in which the garment will be worn to
Fabric drape refers to the way a fabric falls on the
determine the best thickness of the fabric.
body. A fabric with a lot of drape will fall softly and
Fabric weight is determined by weighing a standard- mold itself to the shape of the body. A fabric with little
ized width of a yard or a square yard (91.4 cm or drape will hold its shape and retain its crispness.
0.8 sq. m). More often, fabrics are categorized simply as
very lightweight, mediumweight, and heavyweight.
Very lightweight fabric, with a fabric weight of 3 oz

(85 g), refers to delicate, sometimes sheer fabrics used Tip
for tops or beach cover-up styles. Examples of very When pinning delicate lightweight fabrics, use
lightweight fabrics are charmeuse, chiffon, cotton voile, silk pins. They’re extra fine, with sharp points
and georgette. that won’t leave pin marks in the fabric.
Lightweight fabric, with a fabric weight of 4.5 oz

(127.6 g), refers to fabrics used for tops, shirts, and
dresses. Lightweight fabrics are sometimes described
as top fabrics, since they are generally used on the top
part of the body. Although skirts usually require heavier
fabrics, lightweight fabrics are sometimes used for
skirts with a lot of volume, such as pleated or gathered
styles. Examples of lightweight fabrics include batiste,
broadcloth, chambray, cotton lawn, gingham, seersucker,
shirting, and voile.
16
chapter 1
girl about town
* pattern enclosed
.
Halter Top Chic
.....................................................................................................................
......
...............................................
This up-to-date halter has an extra-long belt that wraps around twice
before it is tied just under the bust, creating a fashionable high-waist effect.
Depending on the fabric used, this comfortable style can be worn for
shopping with the girls or for a fancy evening out on the town. One thing
is guaranteed: heads will turn as you walk by.
suitable fabrics: Choose a lightweight fabric that gathers easily. Cotton

poplin, sheeting, or chambray all work well and are easy to work with. Don’t
be afraid to use bold colors and prints. For a summer look, try cotton eyelet.
17
materials
· 3 ⁄ yards (3.5 m) lightweight fabric
3
4
Tips
· sewing thread Because the ties extend from the pattern piece, the halter
· Optional: ⁄ yard (0.5 m) of ⁄ " (1 cm) -wide

1
2
3
8
top requires 3 3⁄4 yards (3.5 m) of fabric. However, the ties use
bias binding (match or contrast the fabric color) very little of the fabric yardage. The leftover fabric can easily
be used for another project.
· pattern (enclosed)
If you’re willing to break the one-piece rule, you can cut the
tools
straps separately and then stitch them to the main pattern
· sewing machine
piece. Follow the marked indication on the pattern to cut
· scissors
out the halter without the straps. Then, cut the straps from
· dressmaker pins
leftover fabric, following the same width and length as the
· tailor’s chalk
straps marked on the pattern. Using this method, only 1 1⁄2
yards (1.4 m) of fabric is needed for the project.
Instructions .................
.......................................................
..........................................................................................................
1 Cutting instructions: Press the fabric, fold it in
half on the crossgrain, and then place it flat on your
work surface. Pin the pattern to the fabric, placing the (a) Cut the ties, stopping at marks.
designated pattern edge on the fabric fold. Cut out

the halter-top pattern. Carefully cut the ties along the center back
center back
dotted lines stopping at the marked points (a).
center
neck
back
2 Open the ties along the cut portion to the

marks (b). Roll hem the tie edges. As you approach
the inside corner points of the ties, slow down the
stitching speed for more accurate sewing. You will (b) Open the ties for easier hemming.
need to shift the fabric around the inside corner.
Stop sewing every few stitches, keeping the needle center back
center back
in the fabric, and then lift the presser foot. Gently
center
neck
back
smooth the excess fabric off to the side, lower the

presser foot, and continue stitching. This requires
patience but results in a clean, narrow hemmed edge
around the sharp turn. Hem the remaining halter
edges, except the center-back seam and lower edge.
Double-turn the lower edge 1⁄4” (6 mm) to the wrong
side and edgestitch.
girl about town 19
Style Ideas
1. Red striped yarn-
Variations dyed cotton
· Increase the halter length and wear it over jeans as a 1 2. Fancy blue jacquard
halter-tunic. Or crop the halter shorter if you want to cotton/silk blend
show more skin. 3. Embroidered cotton
shirting
· If you have a serger, try making the top in heavyweight
jersey fabric. Jersey fabric forms soft folds and is very
comfortable to wear. When working with knit fabric,
try cutting two tops from the pattern, and bagging the 2
pieces together (see page 141).
3
..................................................................
.. ........ .............
.............................
........... .............
.......... .............
.......... .
..............................
3 Bring the center-back seams together with
right sides facing. Stitch the center back using a
........
........
.........
........
.........
......
.......
5
8 ⁄ ” (1.5 cm) seam allowance (c). Finish the center- .......
back seams with bias binding, or double-fold under
.......
.
the edges and edgestitch (see Hemming Methods
and Attaching Trims, pages 139 and 140). Press
the seam allowances open. Whipstitch the seam
upper and lower corners so the seam allowances
remain open.
4 Insert your arms through the opening, keeping

the neck fabric behind your head; the fabric will (c) Stitch the center-back seam.
form gathers at your neck. Wrap the ties around
your body and tie at the front under the bust. Extra
fabric has been included to allow for vertical folds
when the top is tied. Once you wrap the belt around
twice and tie either at the front or the back, you can
adjust how much skin you want to show.
* pattern enclosed
Pouch-Pocket Top . . . . . . ..................................................

................. . . . . . . . . . . . .
........... .............
................................ .............. . ..........
This stylish top is both flattering and practical, featuring pleated

pouch pockets to carry those small essentials throughout your busy day.
When you head out in the morning, and you’re not sure where you will
wind up that evening, this top will have you looking fashionable through
all occasions and ready for anything. The back is designed to dip lower than
the front, creating a flattering line. Belts inserted at the side seams tie at the
back to draw in the waistline.
Suitable Fabrics: Lightweight cotton or blended fabrics; oxford, poplin,

or other shirt-weight fabrics work well; this top is especially flattering in
a woven striped fabric that shows off the mixed grain directions.
girl about town 21
materials tools
· 2 yards (1.8 m) of lightweight 45" or 60" · sewing machine
(1.2 or 1.5 m) -wide fabric (Choose a fabric with · serger (optional)
an attractive wrong side because it will show.) · scissors
·2⁄ 1
4 yards (2 m) 2" (5 cm) -wide ribbon · measuring tape
·2⁄ 1
4 yards (2 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -prefolded bias binding · dressmaker pins
(match or contrast the top fabric) To finish all inside · hand-sewing needle
seams with bias binding, an additional 2 1⁄2 yards · tailor’s chalk or
(2.3 m) are needed fabric pencil
.
· ⁄3 yard (30.5 cm) of
1 1
⁄4" (6 mm) -wide elastic · ruler . . . . . .
. .................
.
.
.. ... .
· sewing thread
. .. . . .. .............
. ........................
.
. .
. . . . . ....................
.. .. .
. . . . ..........................
. ... .
. . . . ........................................
Instructions . . . .
................... . . . . . .
1 Cutting instructions: With the fabric folded in half length-

wise, place the pattern center back on the fold, pin the edges,
Tip
and cut out. Snip the fabric edges to mark the notches and Test your fabric-marking tools on scrap garment fabric to
pleat positions at the bust and pockets. Mark points for the make sure the marks will not show on the fabric right side.
elastic position on the fabric wrong side along the shoulder
line at each edge. Using a ruler and tailor’s chalk or fabric
pencil, lightly draw a line between the marked points.
center back bust pleats

(place on fabric fold)
fold er
line
uld
sho
Cutting Pouch-Pocket Top

fo cket
e
lin
po
ld
POUCH-POCKET TOP PATTERN

pocket pleats
fabric selvage
girl about town 23
Style Ideas
1. Striped yarn-dyed cotton poplin 2 3
2. Indigo irregular-striped cotton shirting
3. Pale green fancy-weave cotton
............ ...........................................................................
. . . . . ................................................. ............ ...................... .
. . . .
..... ...... . ........................................
........... ........................
.................
...............
...
2 Place the right and left front pieces together at the
center front with the fabric right side faceup. Fold and pin
the bust pleats upward on both pieces. Lightly press the
folds with an iron, and baste 3⁄16” (5 mm) from the fabric
edge. Fold and pin the pleats along the pocket upper
edge. The pocket pleats should fold toward the side
seams. Lightly press and baste 3⁄16” (5 mm) from the
fabric edge (a).
3 Encase the pocket upper raw edges in bias bind-

ing, folding the binding to turn the corners; (see Pivoting
Corners with Binding, page 137) pin and stitch in place.
Pin and sew the binding around the neckline and
armholes edges.
bust pleats
4 With the shirtfronts faceup, fold up the pocket

so the fabric wrong side is showing. Pin the pocket to
center front
the marked positions at the side seam and center-front

edges. Baste the pinned edges in place with a 3⁄8” (1 cm)
seam allowance (b, next page). Pin the pocket upper pocket
fold line
corners to the marked position points. Edgestitch across
the pocket upper edge, pivot at the corner, stitch across
the binding at the corner a couple of times to reinforce
the opening, pivot, and then stitch back across the
(a) Pin and press center
pocket along the binding inner edge (c, next page). front and pocket pleats;
baste to secure.
.......................
..........................................................................................................................
......................
..................
...............
.............
............
......... .
.....
.....
. .......
........
........
(b) Pin and baste
pocket to shirt
6 To hem the back, double-turn under the lower
........
.......
.......
edge ⁄ ” (1 cm) and stitch close to the inner fold.
3
8 ....
at center front ......
......
center front
and side
seams.
7 For the belts, use a 1” (2.5 cm) -wide grosgrain or satin
ribbon, or make the belt from fabric scraps. If you use ribbon,
cut two 31” (78.5 cm) lengths. Turn under one end 3⁄8” (1 cm),
and then turn under again 1” (2.5 cm); iron flat. Box-stitch
the hem (see Finishing Ribbon and Belt Ends on page 141).
Repeat to hem the second ribbon. To make the belts from
fabric scraps, cut two 2 3⁄4” x 31” (7 x 78.5 cm) fabric strips.
(c) Stitch pocket Turn under one end of each strip 1⁄2” (1.3 cm), and iron flat.
upper edge, Press the lengthwise edges 3⁄8” (1 cm) toward the fabric
center front
reinforcing
the corners.
wrong side. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, matching the
folded edges; press flat. Edgestitch around the belt (e).
5 Cut two 5 3⁄8” (13.5 cm) pieces of 1⁄4” (6 mm) -wide

elastic. Turn under the elastic ends 3⁄8” (1 cm), and secure belt
fold line
with a few stitches. On the fabric wrong side and with the
elastic turned-under ends facing down, pin the elastic to each
end of the shoulder line just inside the binding edges. At the
armhole edge, secure the elastic by sewing back and forth a (e) Edgestitch the belt.
few stitches. Then grab each elastic end and stretch it along
the marked line as you stitch down the elastic center (d).
8 Pin the unfinished end of each belt to the marked points
on the front side seams, placing the belts at right angles to
the seams. Baste the belts to the side seams 3⁄8” (1 cm) from
fabric edge (f).
9 With the fabric right sides facing, pin the center front
edges together, matching the pleats and pocket upper edges.
shoulder line
Stitch the center-front seam 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) from the fabric
(d) Pin and stitch elastic to shoulder line,
edge. Press the seam open.
stretching the elastic as you sew.
girl about town 25
Variation
Instead of elastic at the shoulders, use 3⁄8" (1 cm) -wide
shoulder
line contrasting ribbon to gather them. Cut two 24" (61 cm)
lengths of ribbon. Turn under the ends 3⁄8" (1 cm) and then
armho
again 1⁄2" (1.3 cm); press flat. Box-stitch the ends in place
le
around the edges. With the top inside out, place a ribbon
along the shoulder line with 6" (15.2 cm) of ribbon extend-
ing past the shoulder point. Pin in place, and stitch back
..... and forth across the ribbon at the binding edge to secure
........
......... (i) Variation: stitch ribbon to (i). Turn the top right side out, bring the longer ribbon end
........ shoulders, and tie to gather. to the right side at the neck edge, and then tie the ribbons
......... .
.... .... at the shoulder point to gather the fabric.
...
.... ..... . . .
..... ....
.......... . . . ..........
.......... . .
..........
............ . . . ...........
.
............
............. . . . . .............
. .
.............
.......... . . . . . .
. .................
.......................................................
(f) Baste belts to

12 Turn the top right side out and try on. Tie the belts at
the center back (h). Extra fabric has been allowed at the back
front side seams.
to gather when tied.
10 With right sides facing, pin the front and back

together at the side seams matching the marked waist
points. Stitch with a 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) seam allowance (g).
When stitching over the pocket upper edge, reinforce the
join by stitching back and forward a few stitches. Press
the seams open.
11 Finish the seams by serging, zigzag stitching, or encas-

ing the raw edges with narrow bias binding. Whipstitch or
(g) Stitch the center-
front and side seams.
(h) Tie belts to gather
the back.
backstitch a couple of times across the seam ends to keep

the seams open.
* pattern enclosed
Window-Shopping Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .........................................

.. . . .
.................. ................
..................................................................................................................
You’ll get a lot of mileage from this fun, easy-to-make,

flattering day dress, which can be whipped up in a couple of hours.
The shoulders feature small pleats for added detail. Options are endless
to create very different looks from this simple pattern. Wear it belted for
a fitted look, or without a belt for a floaty A-line dress. Keep the dress
simple, or embellish it with a quirky trim to individualize your style.
Suitable Fabrics: Lightweight cottons, or any fabric with soft folds;

try a printed cotton or cotton blend.
girl about town 27
materials tools
· 2 yards (1.8 m) of light- to mediumweight · sewing machine
45" or 60" (1.2 or 1.5 m) -wide fabric · serger (optional)
· 2 1⁄4 yards (2 m) of 3⁄4" or 1" (2 or 2.5 cm) -wide · scissors
lightweight grosgrain ribbon · dressmaker pins
· 2 3⁄4 yards (2.5 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) prefolded bias · hand-sewing needle
binding (match or contrast the dress fabric) · fabric pencil
To finish all inside seams with bias binding, · ruler
an additional 2 1⁄2 yards (2.3 m) are needed.
· sewing thread
· pattern (enclosed) ................ ......
. . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . .
.. ..
. . . . . . . .........................
.. ...
. . . . . . . ...........................
.
.
. ............. . .....................
. . .
................... . .
Instructions ......... .........
1 Cutting instructions: Because this pattern is approxi-

mately 64” (162.5 cm) wide, which is wider than most
(6 mm); iron. With the turned-under ends facing the fabric
right side, pin the belt loops to the marked positions at the
waist. Stitch across the upper and lower ends, backstitching
fabric widths, fold the fabric in half on the crossgrain. If
a couple of times to secure.
you use a nondirectional print fabric, cutting the pattern
this way won’t affect the garment’s final appearance.
Place the pattern center front along the fabric fold, pin
center front
around the edges, and then cut out the dress. Mark (place on fabric fold)
the front shoulder pleats on the seams and belt-loop
positions at the waist as indicated on the pattern. The shoulder
line pleats
belt loop upper end should be 18 1⁄2” (47 cm) below the side fo
ld
fabric selvage
fabric selvage
armhole along the natural side-seam line.
window-shopping dress
2 For the belt loops, use either 3⁄8” (1 cm) -wide

lightweight grosgrain ribbon, or make them from fabric
center
bac
k
scraps. To make belt loops, cut two 1 1⁄2” x 2 1⁄4” (4 x 5.5

cm) fabric strips. Fold the lengthwise edges 1⁄4” (6 mm)
toward the fabric wrong side. Then fold the strips in half
lengthwise matching the folded edges, iron flat, and then
edgestitch both long edges (a). Turn the ends under 3⁄8”
(1 cm) and iron flat. If you use ribbon for the belt loops,
cut two 2 1⁄4” (5.5 cm) lengths. Fold the ends under 1⁄4” Cutting the Window-Shopping Dress
girl about town 29
Style Ideas 1
3
1. Retro-print plain-weave cotton
2. Floral-print cotton shirting
3. Green striped cotton seersucker
. . . .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. ...................................................................................................................................................
................. ... ....................... ...............
................. ..............
............. ...........
........... .........
.......... ...
......
(a) Fold under the lengthwise edges,

and then fold in half; edgestitch
both long edges.
3 On the fabric right side, fold the shoulder pleats toward

the neck; pin. Lightly press the pleats and baste 3⁄8” (1 cm)
from the edge (b).
(b) Fold, press, and baste

the shoulder pleats.
armhole front
neckline
center front
. . . . . . . . . . . . .....................
..... .... ....
.......
.......... . . . . . . . . . . . . .........................................
.... ....
........................
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... .
.. ... .
.. .......
. .....
. .....
. ....................................................
....................................................................
(d) Stitch shoulder seams,

press toward back,
4 Fold the dress at the center front with fabric right sides
facing, and pin the center-back seams together. Stitch the
back
neckline and then finish neck
and armhole edges
with binding.
seam 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) from the fabric edge (c); press open. Finish
the raw edges with serging, zigzag stitching, or by encasing
them in narrow bias binding. Whipstitch the seam upper and armhole
front
neckline
lower ends so the seam allowances remain open.
shoulder
pleat
(c) With fabric right
sides facing, pin
t
6
ron
and stitch center-

center back
er f
back seam. Double-fold the lower hem edge 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) to the
cent
wrong side (e). Stitch ribbon or trim to the hem right side.
For this project a mini pom-pom trim was used, which adds
a playful effect. (See page 139 for tips on stitching ribbon and
trims to hems.)
(e) Hem lower edge.

center back
5 With the fabric right sides facing, place the front and
back shoulders together; stitch the seams 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) from
the fabric edge. Finish the seam edges together by serging,
zigzag stitching, or using 1⁄4” (6 mm) bias binding. Press the
shoulder seam toward the dress back. Finish the armhole and
neck edges with 1⁄4” (6 mm) bias binding (d). (See page 136
for tips on attaching bias binding.)
girl about town 31
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ................................... Variations .........

.. ...................................
.......................................................................... · Change shoulders to straps that tie by narrowing
.. . . ..........
the front and back shoulder widths to 1 5⁄8" (4 cm).
Eliminate the front shoulder pleats, extend the
shoulder 12" (30.5 cm), and trim the strap ends into
7 For the belt, cut a 72” (183 cm) length of 1” (2.5 cm)
-wide grosgrain ribbon. Turn the belt ends under 3⁄8” (1 cm),
a curve (f). Alternatively, cut straps from fabric scraps,
and then stitch them to the shoulders before binding
the edges. Use 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide bias binding to finish
and then turn under again 1” (2.5 cm); iron flat. Box-stitch the seams and straps. Tie the front and back shoulder
the ends (see page 141 for tips on box-stitching belt ends). straps together.
cm)
Thread the belt through the loops and tie at the dress
.5
12" (34
front or back.
(f) Extend shoulders
5
1 ⁄8" (4 cm)
12” (30.5 cm),
curving the ends.
center back
nt
fro
ter
cen
· For a lower front neckline, mark 2 ⁄ " (7 cm) below the 3

4
center-front neck on the pattern. Curve the new front

neckline shape, blending it to the front shoulder line.
· This dress falls to just above the knee, depending

on your height. For a shorter look, remove 3" (7.5 cm)
from the pattern lower edge.
· Eliminate the belt and add a patch pocket. Cut a

7 1⁄2" x 5 1⁄4" (19 x 13.5 cm) rectangle. Turn under the
pocket side and lower edges 3⁄8" (1 cm). Double-fold the
pocket upper edge 1" (2.5 cm) to the wrong side; stitch
the hem in place along the inner fold line. Try on the
dress, and pin the pocket in place below the waist or
wherever you prefer. Stitch around the pocket side
and lower edges.
· Pin a flower corsage to the dress front.

Cape with Inverted

Back Pleat & Poncho
................. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ......................................................
........... .............
................................ .............. . ..........
Capes and ponchos have been swishing down runways in recent seasons,
nodding nostalgically toward the crocheted capes of the 1970s. An outer
garment made from a circle creates instant volume and swing and keeps
you warm while allowing freedom of movement. Depending on the fabric
and embellishments, the result can lean toward elegant minimalist or retro
kitsch.
Suitable Fabrics: Medium- to heavyweight fabrics with a lot of drape will

work well for both the cape and poncho. Keep in mind the season and occa-
sion when choosing the fabric. An autumn cape in worsted wool would look
great and keep you warm. For a classic look, consider using Donegal wool,
herringbone, or tweed. To cover up on a crisp spring afternoon, make the
poncho in soft cotton or a cotton fleece. For a dressy piece, use heavy jersey.
girl about town 33
materials tools
· 1 ⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of 58" (1.5 m) -wide fabric
1
· sewing machine
· 3⁄4 yard (0.7 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide ribbon · scissors
(for cape only) · yardstick
· 2 yards (1.8 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -prefolded bias binding · ruler
· sewing thread · measuring tape
· topstitching thread (optional for cape) · fabric pencil
· dressmaker pins
· medium-size safety pin
Cape with Inverted Back Pleat ............

....... ........ ...........
.................................................
..............
1 Cutting instructions: This cape requires a large circle.

Save time by drawing a half circle onto folded fabric. Fold draw a curved line connecting the four points, making sure
1 1⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of fabric in half lengthwise with right sides the line meets the folded edge at a right angle. Use a yard-
facing. Use a string and pencil to draw a half circle with the stick to draw a straight line from the 3 1⁄2” (9 cm) mark to the
diameter on the fold and a 27” (68.5 cm) radius (see page lower edge. Cut along the line and around the neckline (b).
135); cut out (a).
fold line
halfway line
27” (68.5 cm)
7” (18 cm)
3 1⁄2” (9 cm)
3 1⁄2” (9 cm) 4” (10 cm)
fold line
3” 1
(7.5 cm) 1 ⁄4 ” (3 cm)
(a) Draw a half circle on the fabric.
(b) Cut along the straight line and around the neck.
2 With the circle still folded, mark the halfway point on

the folded edge. To create the neckline, measure 7” (18 cm)
from the folded edge at the halfway point, and mark the
point. Then mark a point 3” (7.5 cm) down from the halfway
3 With the circle still folded, mark a 7” (18 cm) -long
pleat from the 4” (10 cm) mark of the back neckline and
point and 3 1⁄2” (9 cm) in from the folded edge. Mark a point at a right angle to the neck edge; stitch along the marked
1 1⁄4” (3 cm) above the halfway point, and then another mark line. Unfold the circle, fold the pleat so the stitching is in
4” (10 cm) from the folded edge at the same level. Lightly the center and the folds are even on both sides; press.
girl about town 35
Style Ideas
1. Basket-weave cashmere/wool blend
2. Fancy-weave cotton/silk blend
2
3. Moss tweed wool/cashmere blend
3
..................
. . . . . . ................................................................................................................
.. ...
. . . . . . .. . . . ........ .............
.. . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. ........ ......
.......................
Baste 1⁄8” (3 mm) from the neckline edge to secure the pleat.
On the fabric right side, topstitch 1⁄8” (3 mm) on either side of
the pleat seam, boxing the lower corner to secure and deco-
rate the seam. Stitch binding to the neck edge; fold under the
ends for a clean finish.
4
3
Double-turn and press the front and lower edges
⁄8” (1 cm) toward the fabric wrong side; stitch (c).
back pleat stitching

fold line
(c) Hem the front

and lower edges.
5 Cut two 18” (45.5 cm) lengths of ribbon. Double-fold

the ends to the wrong side; stitch to secure. Stitch a ribbon to
each neck-opening corner (d, next page).
............................ ...................................................
.............. .................... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .......................................................
........
......
...........................
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. ...... ... .
........ ................
......
halfway line
9 1
(24 ⁄2”
.1 c
m)
(35.6 cm)
(d) Cape front and back views
14”
(21.6 cm)
8 1⁄2”
5” 3”
(12.7 cm) (7.6 CM) fold line
Poncho 13”
(33 CM) 3”
(7.6 CM)
(a) Mark the armhole and neck locations; cut out.

1 Mark and cut a fabric circle the same size as the cape.
2 Mark the halfway point along the folded edge. Then

4 Remove the pins and unfold the circle. Stitch binding
to the armhole openings, and turn under the ends for a
mark a point at the same level 3” (7.5 cm) from the folded clean finish.
edge. At the fold, mark 1 1⁄4” (3 cm) up and 3” (7.5 cm)
down from the halfway point. Lightly draw a smooth curve
connecting the points, making sure to finish with a right
angle at the FOLD LINE. Cut out the shape; the deeper curve
5 With the fabric wrong side facing up, mark a point
2 1⁄4” (5.5 cm) from the center-front on the neckline, and then
will be the front neckline. draw a 5” (12.5 cm) line at a right angle to the neck edge.
Draw a 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) -wide rectangle centered on the line,
3 Mark the armholes while the fabric is still folded. Lightly

mark two points 5” (12.5 cm) and 13” (33 cm) down from
round the lower corners, and cut out the shape.
the front neckline edge on the FOLD LINE. From the 5” (12.5
cm) point, mark a point at a right angle and 8 1⁄2” (21.5 cm)
6 Stitch binding to the neckline and the slit opening,
pivoting the binding to turn the corners (see Pivoting Corners
from the FOLD LINE. From the 13” (33 cm) point, mark a with Binding, page 137).
point 14” (35.5 cm) from the FOLD LINE. Draw a line to
connect the points—the line should be approximately 9 1⁄2”
(24 cm) long. Use a ruler to lightly draw a 1” (2.5 cm) -wide
rectangle centered on the line, and then round the corners to
7 Attach a button and loop at the slit-opening corners
(see page 140).
create an oval shape. Pin the fabric layers together just out-
side the oval, and cut out the shape through both layers (a).
girl about town 37
Tip
When marking curves, use either a curved ruler or
..................... a round plate to draw a smooth line.

................
.... .... .
...........
......................... . . . . . . .....
......... .................. ....... ..........
............ ...................................................................................................
......................
.....................................
8 Finish the poncho lower edge with binding or a hem. To

hem, double-fold the lower edge 3⁄8” (1 cm) toward the fabric
wrong side and edgestitch (b). Variations
· The cape and poncho radius measurements will yield
a garment that falls to your upper-hip level. For a
shorter version use a 23" (58.5 cm) radius.
· For the cape, use narrow cord instead of ribbon ties,

increase the tie length to 22" (56 cm), and attach
pom-poms to the ends.
· For a no-sew square poncho, use fleece, and leave the

edges raw (fleece doesn’t ravel when cut). Cut a 28" (71
cm) square. To do this, fold the fabric in half and mark
a 14" x 28" (35.5 x 71 cm) rectangle with the longer
measure along the fold line; cut out leaving the fold
intact. Refold the fabric on the diagonal to create a
(b) Finish the neck edge, add a button and loop,
triangle shape, and then mark the fold center point.
and finish the remaining raw edges.
Mark 10 3⁄4" (27.5 cm) along the fold line, centered at
the point. Mark 5 3⁄8" (13.5 cm) at a right angle from
the center point. Connect the points and cut out. The
result is a square-shaped neck opening. Fringe the
poncho by cutting 1⁄2" x 4" (1.3 x 10 cm) strips around
the edges. Cut the fringe with regular scissors or pink-
ing sheers for a decorative effect.
* pattern enclosed
Wraparound Miniskirt . . . . . . ..................................................

................. . . . . . . . . . . . .
........... .............
................................ .............. . ..........
Back in the 1970s, nearly every hip girl had at least one wrap skirt
in her wardrobe. The skirts tended to be long, made from lightweight cotton
fabric that draped into loose folds, was often tie-dyed or had a hand-batik
finish, and sometimes sported fringed edges. Over the years these skirts
have been popping up amid trends and style waves, always proving to
be a great wardrobe staple. Wrap yourself up in this miniskirt version,
featuring ties at the waist and a side pocket. Darted for shape and with
a slightly A-line silhouette, this skirt has a youthful, fun look.
Suitable Fabrics: Mediumweight fabric. Look for a fun print that pairs
well with the playfulness of this miniskirt, such as retro-inspired prints
in quilting-weight cotton. A softer fabric will result in a more casual skirt,
while a crisper fabric will yield a skirt that can be worn to work.
girl about town 39
materials tools
· 1 1⁄4 yards (1.2 m) of mediumweight 45" (1.2 m) · sewing machine
-wide fabric · serger (optional)
· 1 3⁄4 yards (1.6 m) of 1⁄4"(6 mm) -wide satin · scissors
or grosgrain ribbon · measuring tape
· 1 1⁄4 yards (1.2 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide prefolded · dressmaker pins
bias binding (match or contrast the fabric) · tailor’s chalk or pencil
· sewing thread
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...................................................................................................
. . .. . . ......... ......
.............. ..
Instructions
1 Cutting instructions: With the fabric flat, place the
4 Fold the pocket along the FOLD LINE so the fabric
wrong sides are facing; press. Pin and baste both layers to-
pattern grainline on the crossgrain that runs selvage to gether at the waistline edge using the longest stitch on your
selvage. Pin around the pattern edges and cut out. Snip the machine. Baste the pocket lower edges together.
fabric edges to mark the notches, and use the pin-and-chalk
method to mark the dart points before removing the pattern
from the fabric (see Marking the Fabric on page 135). 5 Create the pocket bag. With the skirt wrong side
facing up, begin at the waistline edge and stitch 1⁄2” (1.3 cm)
2 Stitch the darts reducing the stitch length as you

get close to the dart point, and then taper off at the end
from the pocket zigzagged edge. Continue stitching down
11” (28 cm), then keeping the needle in the fabric, pivot the
fabric at a right angle, and stitch a horizontal line across the
(see page 135). Press the front and side darts toward the pocket to the folded edge. Reverse-stitch to secure the seam
skirt back. Press each back dart toward the closest side dart. end.
3 Stitch binding to the V-shaped pocket opening (see

Pivoting Corners with Binding, page 137). Finish the pocket
6 Stitch the binding to the waist edge, turning the binding
ends under for a clean finish. Double-turn the skirt lower
bag raw edge with serging or zigzag stitching (a). Double- edge 3⁄8” (1 cm) toward the wrong side, taking care to fold
fold the skirt opposite short edge 1⁄4” (6 mm) toward the both pocket layers together; press and edgestitch.
wrong side; press and edgestitch.
7 Cut four 15 1⁄2” (39 cm) lengths of 1⁄4” (6 mm) -wide

ribbon. Double-turn the ends under 1⁄4” (6 mm) and edge-
e
front dart
lin
stitch. With the skirt flat open and faceup, pin a ribbon to
old
front dart
back darts
both upper corners at the binding. Use a short stitch to
ine
tf
line
cke
old l
box-stitch the ribbons in place. Position another ribbon at

po
side fold
side f
the binding above the side dart closest to the hemmed short
edge; stitch.
(a) Stitch the darts, bind the V-opening, and finish the short edges.
girl about town 41
Style Ideas
Variations
1 1. Sky blue retro-print cotton
· Increase the outside corner ties to 23” (58.5 cm),
2. Sunflower washed silk
and stitch mini pom-poms to the ends. with slubs
2 3. Turquoise faux suede
· Draw attention to the darts by topstitching them
with contrasting thread.
...................
.......... ...........
......... ........
......... ........
......... .......
...............
...............
..............
.............. 3
......
......
............
.............
On the garment wrong side, position the remaining ribbon at .............
.............
the binding above the side dart closest to the pocket; stitch (b). ............
.............
. . . . . .. . . . . .
.............
...... ......
...... ......
...... ......
...... ......
front dart (b) Add ties to ......
front dart back darts ..
the waistband.
8 Try on the skirt by wrapping the right front across to

the left side, and tie the ribbons together on the inside—
use a simple knot to keep the skirt flat. Then fold the left side
across and tie (c).
(c) Wrap and tie the skirt

around your hips.
* pattern enclosed
Carry-All Alter-Ego Bag . . . . . . ..................................................

................. . . . . . . . . . . . .
........... .............
................................ .............. . ..........
A few folds and some simple stitching result in this stylish

alternative to a tote. Breeze through your day with the convenience
of pockets on both the bag front and back. A bag is an important part of
your outfit, acting as an accessory and a means of transporting part of your
life around with you. Even if your fashion sense leans toward conservative,
express your inner quirky side with the bag you carry. Whip up a couple
of these in different fabrics and you’ll have friends placing orders for
their birthdays.
Suitable Fabrics: Mediumweight fabrics. A softer fabric, such as a printed

broadcloth, will yield a more casual, slouchy bag. A fabric that is crisper
and doesn’t drape as much, such as denim, will create a bag with more
structure. Look for bold colors and kitschy prints for personal flair.
girl about town 43
materials tools
·1 1
⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of mediumweight 40" (1 m) · sewing machine
-wide fabric · scissors
· 3 1⁄2 yards (3.2 m) of 3⁄8" (1 cm) -prefolded bias binding · dressmaker pins
· sewing thread · measuring tape
........................
. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ........................................................ .......................................
. ...................
Instructions ....
1 Cutting instructions: With right sides facing, fold the

fabric on the crossgrain, matching the selvages. Place the
pocket openings
pocket
pattern lower edge on the fabric fold. Pin around the pat- center
stitching
tern edges and cut out. Snip all notches and at the fold lines
before removing the pattern from the fabric. (a) Fold both pockets;
bottom fold baste the sides. Stitch
positions
2 With wrong sides facing and following the snipped

guidelines at the sides, fold the fabric to create the pocket
the center pocket
dividers.
opening edge; press flat and edgestitch. Repeat to stitch the

remaining pocket opening edge.
3 Fold the pocket, placing the upper edge at the marked

notches at the sides. Pin and baste the pocket sides to the
bag. Repeat for the other pocket. Use a measuring tape to
pin-mark the center of the pocket upper edge. Mark the
center of the pocket bag lower edge with another pin.
Stitch down the pocket center on either side of the pin-
marks, boxing the stitches at the upper and lower ends,
4 Fold the bag in half with the fabric right sides facing.
Accordion-fold the bag lower edge up between each side,
and reverse-stitching at the top to add extra strength to
using the notches as guides. Pin the sides together and stitch
the pocket openings. Repeat for the other pocket (a). 5
⁄8” (1.5 cm) from the fabric edge (b). Encase the seam raw
edges with the 3⁄8” (1 cm) binding, folding the ends under at
the bag lower corners for a clean finish.
girl about town 45
Style Ideas
1. Retro-print cotton
Variations
2. Pin-tuck pleated cotton
· For larger pockets, skip the pocket center stitching. 1
3. Striped coated denim
· Increase or decrease the strap length according to

your preference.
· Embellish with fancy trims along the pocket upper

edges.
2
...........
.......
......
..........
..........
...........
...........
...........
............
............. 3
..............
..............
................
..................
....................
..........................
... .......... ....................................
(b) Fold and stitch the sides together.
5 Use a French seam to stitch the handle ends

together on one side of the bag (see page 138). Repeat
to stitch the remaining handles together. Encase the
handle edges with binding, overlapping the ends for a
clean finish (see page 137) (c).
(c) French-seam the
6 Put everything you need for the day in the bag,

and you’re out the door!
handles; stitch binding
to the edges.
Hooded Scarf with Pockets . . . . . . ..................................................

................. . . . . . . . . . . . .
........... .............
................................ .............. . ..........
A long, narrow rectangle of fabric can be whipped up into a

hooded scarf—a simple winter accessory that will complement any
casual outfit. Traditionally knit or crocheted, this quick and easy-to-sew
version is both cute and cozy, and the pockets double as hand warmers
on chilly winter mornings.
Suitable Fabrics: Soft fabrics with a little stretch. Lightweight polar fleece
is an ideal fabric; it sews very easily and requires no edge finishing!
girl about town 47
materials
· 2 3⁄4 yards (2.5 m) of 45" (1.2 m) -wide fabric
· sewing thread Variations
· two 15 mm buttons
If multiple Hooded Scarves will be sewn, draw the
dimensions on paper to create a pattern and speed
tools up the cutting process.
· sewing machine
· serger (optional)
· scissors
· measuring tape
· yardstick
· dressmaker pins
· tailor’s chalk or fabric pencil
....
. . . . . . . . . . . . ....................................................
... ... .
. . . . . . . . . . .
. ..................................
.... ....
. .. . .. . . .. . . . .....................................
.
.............................
Instructions .................
10 1⁄2” (26.5 cm)
6”
(15 cm)
(16.5 cm)
1 1⁄2”
6 1⁄2”
11 1⁄4” (28.5 cm)

(4 cm)
1 Cutting instructions: Fold the fabric in half on the

crossgrain with the wrong sides facing, and pin the sel-
vages together at one side. Draw an 11 1⁄4” x 48 1⁄2” (28.5
fold line
48 1⁄2” (123 cm)
x 123 cm) rectangle with the shorter measure along the
fold and the longer measure along the pinned selvage. For
the back-neck shaping, measure 10 1⁄2” (26.5 cm) from
(a) Cut out the scarf; trim away the smaller rectangle.
the folded edge, and lightly mark a 1 1⁄2” (4 cm) -wide
rectangle that overlaps the larger rectangle and extends
to the lower edge. Draw a small curve to round off the
upper inside corner of the small rectangle. Mark a point 2 Stitch along the curved line of the hood, and then trim
the fabric 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) beyond the stitching (b). Press the
on the fold that is 6 1⁄2” (16.5 cm) from the upper corner.
Mark another point 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) from the large rectangle seam open with the tip of the iron, and then finish the raw
edge and 6” (15 cm) from the fold. Lightly mark a smooth seam edges with serging or zigzag stitching.
curve from point to point, continuing to the bottom of the
back-neck shaping (a). Cut out the large rectangle, and
then trim away the smaller rectangle making sure to cut
along the small curve—not to the corner point.
(b) Stitch the curved line; trim the seam.

girl about town 49
Style Ideas 1 3
1. Tangerine cashmere twill

2. Orange cotton fleece
3. Pink felted basket-weave wool
......................................................................................................
............................................................................................................................................................
......................
.................
...
3 Hem the long raw edges by double-folding and pressing
the fabric 1⁄4” (6 mm) toward wrong side; edgestitch. To hem
the short edges, fold and press the fabric 3⁄8” (1 cm) toward
the right side, and then again 3⁄4” (2 cm); edgestitch.
4 Create the pockets by turning up the short edges

9 1⁄2” (24 cm) toward the fabric right side. Topstitch the
pocket sides, reinforcing the stitching at the upper corners.
5 To make the pocket loops, cut two 1” x 3 1⁄2” (2.5 x

9 cm) strips of lightweight fabric. Fold under the short ends
1
⁄4” (6 mm) and press. Fold each strip in half lengthwise, and
then turn in the raw edges 1⁄4” (6 mm) so they meet in the
center. Stitch close to the lengthwise edges. Fold the strip
right edges together to form a point at the center; press.
Center the loop ends on the wrong side of the pocket upper
edge, overlapping the edge 1⁄2” (1.3 cm), and pin in place.
Stitch the loops following the stitch line of the pocket hem;
reverse-stitch to secure. Position a button to the scarf side
underneath the loop. Insert the button through the loop to
(c) Add button-
close the pocket (c).
and-loop
closures to
the pockets.
50
chapter 2
sunday brunch
* pattern enclosed
.................
Lounge-Around Robe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..............................................
.............................
........................... ...........................
For most, sunday is the easygoing day of the week, and getting
dolled up happens a little later in the day. This crossover-front robe will
keep you looking great while lounging around reading the paper or enter-
taining brunch guests. The flattering front pleats extend from bust to
waist, and the wraparound ties ensure a cozy and comfortable fit.
Suitable Fabrics: Choose a fabric that is machine washable, comfortable,

and soft against your skin. Light- to mediumweight cotton-backed sateen,
cotton broadcloth, chambray, and satin-weave cottons work well.
51
materials tools
·2 1
⁄2 yards (2.3 m) of light- to mediumweight · sewing machine
60" (1.5 m) -wide fabric · serger (optional)
· 3 1⁄2 yards (3.2 m) of 1" (2.5 cm) -wide ribbon · scissors
· 2 1⁄2 yards (2.3 m) of 3⁄8" (1 cm) -wide prefolded · dressmaker pins
cotton bias binding in contrast color. To completely · hand-sewing needle
finish all inside seams with bias binding, an · tailor’s chalk or fabric pencil
additional 4 3⁄4 yards (4.3 m) are needed.
· sewing thread
. . . . . . . . .
.. ... .
.. ..... ......................................................................................................................
..
............. ...............
Instructions .... .. .
. .. ..
. ... . .
. .. .
.. ...
1 Cutting instructions: Fold the fabric lengthwise with

right sides facing. Place the pattern center back on the fabric
2 On the fabric wrong side, fold and pin the bust pleats
toward the side seams. Iron the pleats flat approximately
foldline. Pin the pattern in place around the edges and cut 10” (25.5 cm) from the dart edge. Baste across the pleats
out. Mark the right and left front pleat positions on the 3
⁄16” (5 mm) from the upper edge (a). On the fabric right
fabric wrong side. Cut on the dart line, taking care to stop side, edgestitch each pleat fold 8 1⁄2” (21.5 cm) from the
at the end point at the last pleat line. Mark the belt opening upper edge (b).
positions at the side seams on the fabric wrong side.
center back
lower edge
nt
fro
lounge-around
slee
robe pattern waist and belt-opening

ve fo
low
notches
e
ld lin
re
dg
e
fabric selvage
Cutting the Lounge-Around Robe

sunday brunch 53
Style Ideas
Variation 2. Fern green satin-backed cotton/silk
1
Check the pattern sleeve length by measuring from
3. Denim-style print plain-weave cotton
your center-back neck, along the top of your arm to
your wrist, and then compare the measurement to
the pattern. If you desire longer sleeves, eliminate
the sleeve binding, and add a strip of fabric to the
sleeve lower edge to create a wide band. Cut the
2
band the same width as the sleeve, by two times the
desired added length plus 2" (5 cm). Stitch the band
to the sleeve lower edge, and construct the robe
following the directions. Finish the sleeve by turning
under the band raw edge ½" (1.3 cm); press. Turn the
band to the wrong side, encasing the joining seam
allowances and slipstitch in place.
3
. . . .. .
.....
. ... .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .....................
.... ...
.. ...........
........................ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..........................................
................................................................... ....................... .
.....................................................
(a) Fold, pin, and press pleats;

center back
baste the upper edge.
sho lder
foldulder shou line
line fold
bust
pleats
front
(b) Edgestitch each

pleat 8 1⁄2” (21.5 cm).
..............................................
....................
.....
.....................................................................................................................
.............................
...........
.... ...... ..
... .............
................
...........
..
3 Fold the pleats back so the fabric right sides are facing
and the dart cut edges meet; pin. Stitch the dart 1⁄4” (6 mm)
4 For the belts, use either 1” (2.5 cm) -wide grosgrain
or satin ribbon, or make them from fabric scraps. If you use
from the upper edge, tapering toward the dart point. When ribbon, cut two 47” (119.5 cm) lengths. Turn under one end
the stitching is about 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) from the dart point, reduce 3
⁄8” (1 cm) and turn under again 1” (2.5 cm); iron flat. Box-
the stitch length to very short, and then taper the stitching so stitch the hem (see tips on page 141 for box-stitching belt
it is very close to the folded edge. Stitch as close as pos- ends). Repeat to hem the second ribbon. To make the belts
sible to the folded edge for several stitches. Cut the threads, from fabric scraps, cut two 2 3⁄4” x 47” (7 x 119.5 cm) fabric
leaving them long enough to tie at the dart point (c). Press strips. Fold under one end of each strip 1/2” (1.3 cm); press.
the dart upward on the body. Turn to the robe right side and Fold under both long edges 3⁄8” (1 cm); press. Fold the belt in
edgestitch the dart upper edge (d). Remove any visible bast- half lengthwise, matching the edges; iron flat. Edgestitch the
ing from the robe right side. belt edges together.
5 With the belt facing the fabric wrong side and at a right
angle to the seam, pin the unfinished belt ends at the waist
basting
points (e).
(c) Stitch dart,

tapering to end
point at center
nt
fro
front.
(e) Baste the belts

to the robe front
edges at the
waistline.
front
6 Encase the front and neckline edges in 3⁄8” (1 cm) folded

bias binding. At the waist, pin the binding over the belt ends.
(d) Edgestitch dart upper Edgestitch the binding inner fold through all layers being
edge, and remove visible careful to turn the corners at the waist. Fold the belts toward
basting stitches. the front edge and stitch to secure flat (f).
sunday brunch 55
Variations
· For a shorter robe, remove 4" (10 cm) from the pattern
lower edge.
................ · For a summer robe, remove 4" (10 cm) from the sleeve
..............
.............. lower edge so the sleeves end just below the elbow.
.. . ... .
. ... ..
.. .... .
... .... .
... .... .
........
.........
..........
........... . .....
.............. . . . . . . .
.........................................
front
(f) Fold the belts toward (f) Stitch around opening

the front edge and to strengthen.
stitch flat.
side seam
7 With right sides facing, pin the robe front and back to-
gether at the side seams. Completely stitch the left underarm
seam 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) from the edge. On the right underarm
seam, insert pins at the waist to mark the belt opening. Using
a 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) allowance, stitch the seam to the belt open-
9 Finish the robe lower edge with a 1⁄2” (1.3 cm)
double-turned hem; edgestitch. Hem both sleeves in
ing, and secure the seam end with backstitching; cut and
the same manner.
tie the threads. Insert the needle at the other end of the belt
opening, and continue stitching the seam. Press the seams
open. Clip up to, but not through, the stitching of the curved
underarm seam every 1 1⁄2” (4 cm) to allow the fabric to mold
10 Try on the robe. Feed the left-front belt from the
inside through the belt opening on the opposite side seam,
to the curve when the robe is turned right side out. Finish the
wrap the belt around, and tie.
side seams with serging or zigzag stitching, or bind with a
lightweight nylon bias binding.
8 On the fabric right side, reinforce the belt opening by

stitching 1⁄4” (6 mm) from the edges, boxing the upper and
lower points (g).
T-Shaped Tunic .
...
.........................................................
................. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .
.. ... ........
................................ ........ ....... ...........
Tunics date back to ancient greece and have evolved with time,
appearing practically every season in some variation. A tunic looks
great worn loose and flowing or belted at the hip.
Suitable Fabrics: Lightweight washed cotton

or crinkled batiste. If going with the longer
dress version, look for fabrics with comfort
stretch added.
materials Style Ideas
3
· 1 1⁄4 yards (1.2 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide drawcord 1. Iridescent satin backed cotton/silk blend
· 1 1⁄4 yards (1.2 m) of 3⁄4" (2 cm) -wide ribbon 2. Yellow cotton voile
· 1 yard (1 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -prefolded bias binding 3. Multicolor striped cotton shirting
· sewing thread
2
tools
· sewing machine
· scissors
· yardstick
· ruler
· measuring tape 1
· fabric pencil
· dressmaker pins 3
........... ........................................................
........... .........
........
Instructions ........
........
....
1 Cutting instructions: Fold 1 3⁄4 yards (1.6 m) of fabric

in half on the crossgrain with right sides facing. Mark
fold line
58”
(147 cm)
8”
center point 7” (20.5 cm)
the center point of the folded edge with a fabric pencil. (18 cm)
Using the pencil and yardstick, lightly draw an 5”
8” x 58” (20.5 x 147 cm) rectangle centered on the (12.5 cm)
29”
point and with the longest measure along the fold. At (73.5 cm)
a right angle to the center point, mark a point 29”
selvage edge
21” (53.5 cm)
(73.5 cm) from the fold for the tunic lower edge. Draw
a 21” (53.5 cm) line centered on the lower point and
parallel to the fold. Draw two lines at right angles to
the fold that join the lower edge to the upper rectangle. 4”
From the underarm corners, mark 7” (18 cm) along the (10 cm)
sleeve and 5” (12.5 cm) along the sides; connect the 4”

(10 cm)
points in a smooth curve. Mark 4” (10 cm) on either
side of the lower corners, and then connect the points (a) Draw the tunic outline.
with a curve (a). Cut out the tunic.
................................
. . . . . . . . .
. .
. .
. .................................................................................................................................
... .... .................. ...............
. . . . . . .
. ......................... ....................................
...........
. . . . . . . .
...... ....
2 With right sides facing, refold the tunic along the center
front and back, and align the cut edges. From the fold halfway
3 Unfold the tunic and place it on a flat work surface with
the wrong side facing up. With a ruler, lightly draw a line
point, mark a point 1 1⁄2” (4 cm) above and another 3” (7.5 from the center-front neckline to the point 6” (15 cm) below;
cm) below. At a right angle to the center point, mark a point carefully cut the slit. Finish the slit with binding, folding the
3” (7.5 cm) from the fold. To form the neckline, join the binding to turn at the sharp lower corner (see Pivoting
points with smooth curves that meet the folded edge at a Corners with Binding, page 137). Attach binding to the
right angle—the deeper curve is the front neckline. Lightly neckline, folding under the ends for a clean finish. Make an
mark a point 6” (15 cm) below the front neckline on the fold. optional loop-and-button closure at the neckline corners
Cut out the neck opening (b). (see page 140).
4 Refold the tunic in half along the shoulder line with right
sides facing to form a T-shape. Pin and stitch the sleeve and
side seams with a 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) allowance and ending where
fold line
the lower side curve begins; reverse-stitch to secure the

seam end. Finish the seam with serging or zigzag stitching.
Snip the seam allowances to, but not through, the stitching
at the lower side seams. Finish the tunic lower edge and
curved sides with a 1⁄4” (6 mm) double-turned hem, and box
3” (7.5 cm)
shoulder
fold line the seam ends at the side seams.
1 1⁄2” (4 cm)
3” (7.5 cm)
front neckline
6” (15 cm)
5 Hem the sleeve with a 1⁄4” (6 mm) double-turned
hem. Stitch the edges of a 3⁄4” (2 cm) -wide ribbon to the
front neck slit
fabric right side 1 1⁄2” (4 cm) above and parallel to the sleeve
(b) Mark the neck hem on both sleeves to form a casing. Cut two 20” (51 cm)
and front slit; lengths of 1⁄4” (6 mm) drawcord. Use a safety pin to thread
cut out the the drawcord through the casings. Tie small knots at the
neck opening. drawcord ends. Pull the drawcord ends to gather the sleeve;
tie to secure.
sunday brunch 59
. . . . . . ...........
.. ..
. . . . . . . ....................
.. ..
. . . . . . . . . . .........................
... ..
................................... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...................................
.
.................................................................................................... .............................
...........
Variations
· For a more traditional straight-edged tunic, don’t curve
the lower corners. Stitch the side seams, ending 4" (10
cm) above the lower edge; reverse-stitch the seam end
to secure. Finish the seam with serging or zigzag stitch-
ing. Snip the seam allowances to, but not through, the
stitching at the lower side seam ends. Finish the tunic
lower edge and side slits with a 1⁄4" (6 mm) double-
turned hem, boxing the seam ends at the side seams.
· For a dropped-waist effect, add belt loops at the high

hip. Make the belt loops from fabric scraps or use
1
⁄4" (6 mm) -wide grosgrain ribbon. To make the belt
loops, cut two 1 1⁄2" x 3" (4 x 7.5 cm) fabric strips. Fold
under the lengthwise edges 1⁄4" (6 mm). Fold the belt
loops in half, aligning the lengthwise edges; press flat.
Turn the ends under 3⁄8" (1 cm) and press flat. If you use
ribbon, cut two 3" (7.5 cm) lengths. Fold the ends under
1
⁄4" (6 mm); press. Try on the top and pin the belt loops
at your high-hip level near the side seams. Stitch across
the belt loop upper and lower ends, backstitching a
couple of times to secure.
· Make a short-sleeved tunic dress. Increase the length

of the main rectangle from 29" (73.5 cm) to 39" (99 cm),
and reduce the sleeve rectangle length from 58" (147
cm) to 35" (89 cm). Leave the sleeve openings loose or
gather with casings as explained in step 5 at left.
* pattern enclosed
Strappy Dress . . . . . . . . . .........................................

. . . . . . . . . .
................................................................
This playful dress features spaghetti straps and an empire waistline

that elongates the figure. Pair it with sexy high-heel sandals or ballet slip-
pers and a matching headband for an afternoon picnic.
Suitable Fabrics: Lightweight or soft-touch medium-

weight fabrics such as quilting-weight cottons,
gingham, eyelet embroidered fabric, piqué, or
shirting. Avoid slippery fabrics, such as satin,
which would make sewing the binding to
the upper edge difficult.
sunday brunch 61

· 1 yard (1 m) of 45" (1.2 m) -wide fabric
1. Fancy metallic-motif silk/cotton
· 1 1⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide prefolded bias
2. Pistachio washed silk
binding. An additional 1 1⁄2 yards (1.4 m) are needed
3. Pink retro-print cotton
to finish the center-back seam with binding.
· 1 1⁄4 yards (1.2 m) of 1" (2.5 cm) -wide ribbon (optional) 2
· 1 yard (1 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide ribbon (optional)

· sewing thread
3
tools 1
· sewing machine · dressmaker pins
· scissors · medium-size safety pin
· measuring tape · loop turner (optional)
......................
. . . . . . . . . . ......................................................................................................
.... ..... ............ ...........
............................ ........... ..........
........... .
....
Instructions .
1
center
Cutting instructions: Fold the fabric lengthwise with right

back
sides facing and match the selvages. Place the pattern center (a) Finish the upper
front on the fabric fold. Pin around the edges and cut out. edges with binding.
Stitch and finish the
center-back seam.
2 Stitch binding to the dress upper edges, pivoting at the
corners and center V (see Pivoting Corners with Binding,
page 137). With right sides facing, stitch the center-back
dress fabric or a contrasting fabric).
seam 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) from the fabric edge. Press the seam open,
Double-fold under the strip ends 1⁄4” (6 mm) and edgestitch.
and then finish the seam allowances with 1⁄4” (6 mm) bind-
Fold under the long edges 1⁄4” (6 mm) and press.
ing, serging, or zigzag stitching (a). Slip stitch the seam ends
open at the center-back upper edge.
4 Fold the casing in half widthwise and finger-crease

3 Turn the dress right side out. For the waistline casing,
use either 1” (2.5 cm) -wide ribbon or make the casing from
the fold. With right sides facing up and edges aligned, pin
the casing creased fold to the center back. Continue pinning
the casing to the upper edge to where the dress sides start
fabric scraps. If you use ribbon, cut a 39” (99 cm) length,
curving upward.
fold under the ends 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) and edgestitch. If you use
fabric scraps, cut a 1 1⁄2” x 39” (4 x 99 cm) strip (use the
. . .. . . ................
. .............................................................................................................
.
.. ... . .......................
.............. ......... ...
.. ......
..... . . .. . .
.. .. ..
. ........
.........
..........
From that point, pin the strap straight across to the center .........
front, continuing the straight line of the back upper edge. The
... .. .
. ... .
casing ends should finish approximately 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) from the casing opening . .. . .....
center front. Edgestitch the casing upper and lower edges, ....
leaving the center front open.
(b) Stitch the straps
5 For the shoulder straps, use either 1⁄4” (6 mm) ribbon,

or make the straps from fabric. To use ribbon, cut two 17 1⁄4”
to the upper edge.
(44 cm) lengths. To make spaghetti straps, cut a 1” x 34 1⁄2”

(2.5 x 87.5 cm) fabric strip. With the wrong sides facing, fold
the strip in half lengthwise matching the edges; press lightly.
Stitch 1⁄4” (6 mm) from the lengthwise raw edges; trim the
seam to approximately 1⁄8” (3 mm). Use a loop turner to turn 8 Try on the dress, and tie the ribbon to fit under your
bust. Adjust the gathers placing more toward the back to
the strap right side out (see page 63). Cut the strap in half,
and finish the ends with a narrow, short zigzag stitch. avoid gaping fabric at the sides of the bust (c).
6 Pin one strap end to the wrong side of the upper-front

edge at the point above the bust. Stitch across the point and
(c) Tie the ribbons and
adjust the gathers.
reverse-stitch a few times to secure the strap. Repeat to at-
tach the remaining strap to the other side of the front. Try on
the dress, position and pin the strap ends to the inside edge
of the side curves. The exact position will depend on your
individual shape—I suggest 6” (15 cm) from the front upper-
edge points. Stitch the strap ends to the binding, reverse-
stitching a few times to secure (b).
7 For the waist tie, cut 1 1⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of 1⁄4” (6 mm)
ribbon. Double-turn under the ends 3⁄8” (1 cm); press and
stitch the ends to secure. Attach a medium-sized safety pin
to one ribbon end and feed it through the casing. Adjust the
ribbon so the ends are equal without gathering the fabric.
Secure the ribbon at the center back with hand stitching.
This will prevent the ribbon from coming out when the
dress is washed.
sunday brunch 63
Variation
Transform the dress for a fun night out by stitching
randomly placed small glass beads across the bust area.
This will add some eye-catching sparkle as you make
your entrance.
.... . . . . . . . . . ..........
..... .
.. ... . . . . . . . . . . ........................
.. ...
.. .... ..
... ..... ... . . . . . . . . .....................................
. . . .
... ......... ............. ...............................
........ ...............................................
Tip - Making Spaghet ti Straps Using a LoopTurner

A loop turner is a long, narrow wire with a tiny hook
and latch at the end. This tool is used to turn narrow
tubing right side out when making spaghetti straps
or loops for buttons. Spaghetti straps are narrow
(usually about 1⁄4" [6 mm] wide) fabric tubes that add a
delicate finishing touch to a dress or top. For 1⁄4" (6 mm)
-wide straps, cut a 1" (2.5 cm) -wide strip of fabric to
the length you need. Fold the strip in half lengthwise,
with the right sides facing. Stitch a seam 1⁄4" (6 mm)
from the raw edge. Trim the seam allowance to about
1
⁄8" (3 mm). Insert the long loop turner through the
tube to the opposite opening. Pierce a small hole in
the fabric at the opening edge with the hook and close
the latch at the end of the hook to secure. Slowly pull
the loop turner back through the tube, taking care to
keep the fabric attached to the hook. When the strap is
completely through to the right side, remove the hook,
and press flat.
LOOP TURNER
* pattern enclosed
Gathered Apron . . . . . . ..................................................

................. . . . . . . . . . . . .
........... .............
................................ .............. . ..........
A prons have made their overdue comback and are a stylish must-
have in the kitchen. In previous generations women often had two sets
of aprons—the ones they used for cooking, and the ones they put on when
guests came over. The special aprons were typically made from more deli-
cate fabrics, solely for the purpose of looking fabulous. Whether you are a
culinary queen or just want to look the part, this little gathered apron is
the way to go!
Suitable Fabrics: Mediumweight fabric that is machine washable and

durable (unless you’re making the purely fabulous version!). Try using
a cotton or cotton-blended fabric, especially a retro-style print.
sunday brunch 65
materials tools
·1 1
45" (1.2 m) -wide fabric · scissors
· 2 yards (1.8 m) of 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) -wide prefolded · dressmaker pins
cotton bias binding
· 2 yards (1.8 m) of 1 1⁄4" (3 cm) -wide ribbon
(I suggest a cotton grosgrain)
· sewing thread
...............
. . . . ........................................................................ ..... ..
. ..
. . . ....................... . ............
...........
......... . ..........
..........
..........
Instructions 3 Fold up the pocket toward the fabric right side along
.... .....
.... ....
..... ...
...
the marked fold. Pin the pocket sides to the apron, and baste
1 ⁄4” (6 mm) from the edge to hold in place. Stitch 3⁄4” (2 cm)
1
Cutting instructions: With right sides facing, fold the binding to the apron lower sides, turning under the ends and
fabric in half lengthwise matching the selvages. Place the boxing the lower corners for a clean finish. Reverse-stitch a
pattern center front on the fabric fold, pin the pattern edges, couple times when stitching the binding at the pocket upper
and cut out. Snip the fabric to mark the notches before corner to reinforce the join.
removing the pattern from the fabric.
2 Gather the pocket upper side edges. Using the longest

4 Stitch 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) binding to one side of the apron start-
ing at the strap upper end. At the side lower end, trim the
stitch on your machine, baste from one apron side edge to binding 3” (7.5 cm) beyond the edge to create a loop for the
the notch with a 1⁄4” (6 mm) seam allowance; do not reverse- strap to pass through. To finish the loops, unfold the binding,
stitch; leave long thread ends. Repeat to baste the other side fold in the end 1⁄4” (6 mm), refold the binding, and edgestitch
of the pocket. Tie the threads on one end of each stitching the layers together for a clean finish. Fold the binding end to
row to secure. Gently pull the bobbin thread at the other end the wrong side, creating a loop a little longer than 1” (2.5 cm).
of each row to gather the fabric until each portion equals Secure the binding end at the apron edge using a short stitch
7 1⁄2” (19 cm); tie and trim the thread ends. Stitch 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) length and reverse-stitching a couple of times. Repeat to add
folded cotton bias binding to the pocket upper edge (a). binding to the opposite side of the apron.
5 Add binding to the curved neckline (b).
(a) Gather the pocket

pocket position
notch upper sides, and
finish with binding. (b) Finish the edges with
binding loop
pocket fold line binding, and create
loops for the straps.
sunday brunch 67
Style Ideas
1. Reversible orange cotton/
Variations polyester twill
· Embellish the large apron pocket by stitching a vintage 1 2. Green polka-dot plain-
button to the upper end of each row of stitching. weave cotton
3. Floral retro-print cotton
· To make the apron without the pocket gathers, fold the
pattern up to the marked pocket position. Fold the extra
pattern tissue at the pocket sides so the fold is even
with the apron sides; pin the folded sides in place. Fold
the pocket back down, place the pattern on the fabric, 2
and cut the pocket edge straight across—do not cut the
slight curve at the sides that was allowed for gathering.
.....
............
..... ......
..... ......
...... .....
...... .......
....... ........ 3
....... ........
........ .........
.......... ............
............ ..................... .......
.................. .................................................................
........................................................................
6 Stitching divides the pocket to create three separate
compartments. Measure the pocket upper edge and divide
by three—the result should be 7 1⁄2” (19 cm). Pin the pocket
upper and lower edges to mark the ends of the stitching lines.
Topstitch the divider rows with an average stitch length, and
reinforce the seams at the pocket upper edge with short
reverse-stitching to prevent the pockets from ripping.
7 Cut two straps 1 yard (1 m) long. Fold under and box-

stitch one end of each strap (see page 141). Attach the straps
to the apron straps with French seams (see page 138). Press
the seams toward the apron and edgestitch.
8 Try on the apron by crossing the straps behind your

back and feeding them through the side loops (c). Tie the
straps at the back and get cooking!
(c) To wear the apron, cross the straps

in back, feed through loops, and tie.
68
chapter 3
party time
.................
Flared Circle Tops
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . ......................................................
............ ..............
........................... .............. .........
S pice up your wardrobe each season with a couple of fresh tops.

These fun flared circle tops offer endless style variations that easily mix
and match to design your own look. From short to long sleeves, gathered or
left loose, both tops can be varied for a dressy occasion or stylish everyday
wear depending on the fabric chosen. Choose the neckline you prefer, and
embellish with finishing details.
Suitable Fabrics: Lightweight fabrics, such as cotton shirting, crepe de

chine, laundered silk, or jersey.
69
materials tools
3
· sewing machine
· 1 yard (1 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide ribbon (optional) · scissors
· 1 1⁄4 yards (1.2 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide drawcord · yardstick
· 1 3⁄4 yards (1.6 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide prefolded · ruler
bias binding · measuring tape
· sewing thread · fabric pencil
· dressmaker pins
............................................................................................................................................
.................. .................... ..
Instructions 27” (68.5 cm)
. . .. . . . . .
.....
18 1⁄2” (47 cm)
1 Cutting instructions: Fold the fabric in half lengthwise

with right sides facing, and then fold it in half again, aligning
14 3⁄4” (37.5 cm)
the previous folds. Using the string-and-pencil method 14 1⁄2” 13 3⁄4” (35 cm)
(37.5 cm)
(see page 135), place the knotted string end at the corner 10”
(25.5 cm)
where all the folds meet, then draw a quarter circle with a
27” (68.5 cm) radius; cut out.
fold line
(a) Draw the circle
top with the
2 Keep the circle folded, and mark a point 13 3⁄4” (35

cm) from the corner along the double fold. From this mark, 12” (30.5
desired sleeve
length.
cm)
measure 10” (25.5 cm) at a right angle. Mark a point 12”
(30.5 cm) from the double fold on the circle edge. Connect
the points with a slightly curved line to create the underarm
shape and side seam. For a cap sleeve, mark a point 14 3⁄4”
(37.5 cm) from the corner along the two folded edges. For 3 With right sides facing, refold the top along the center
front and back so the side seams, sleeve, and lower edges
short sleeves, mark a point 18 1⁄2” (47 cm) from the corner.
For long sleeves, mark a point 27” (68.5 cm) from the corner align; mark the neckline of your choice. For a boatneck, mark
and another point 14 1⁄2” (37 cm) from the fold on the circle. 5” (12.5 cm) from the fold halfway point. Mark two points
Draw curved lines to connect the underarm to the desired on the fold 1 1⁄2” (4 cm) on either side of the halfway point.
sleeve length (a). Lightly draw a smooth curve to connect the points, finishing
with right angles at the fold.
For a deep round neck, mark 3” (7.5 cm) from the fold
halfway point. Mark a point 7 1⁄2” (19 cm) below the half-
way point along the fold. Mark a point 1 1⁄2” (4 cm) above
party time 71
Style Ideas
1. Orchid silk crêpe de chine
2. Sunshine yellow satin-finished cotton
3. Purple print satin-faced silk
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the halfway point on the fold. Lightly draw a smooth curve
connecting the points finishing with right angles at the
foldline. The deeper curve will be the front neckline.
For a V-neck, mark the same points as for the deep round
neck, but use a ruler to create a straight line at the front (b).
fold line
(b) Mark your desired

neck and cut out.
shoulder 5” (12.5 cm)

fold line
1 1⁄2”
3” 1 1⁄2”
7 1⁄2” (19 cm)
front neckline
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. . . . . . . . . . . .
.... ............... .............
.......... ........... .
............
..
4 Refold the top with right sides facing, and align the
side and lower edges. Stitch the side seams 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) from
the edge. Finish the seam raw edges with serging or zigzag
stitching.
5 To finish the neckline, either hem or finish the edge

with binding. To hem, make 1⁄4” (6 mm) snips into the fabric
along the curves, double-turn 1⁄4” (6 mm) toward the wrong
side, press, and edgestitch.
6 Finish the sleeve with a 1⁄4” (6 mm) double-turned hem.
7 Finish the lower edge with a 3⁄8” (1 cm) double-turned

hem (see page 139) (c).
(c) Hem the sleeve

and lower edge.
party time 73
......... ..........
............................... ... . . . . . . . . .
..
............... ............
............................................ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ........................................
.... ..................................... .......................................
Variations
· Add a beaded tape trim to the lower edge of a top made
from silky fabric, to add weight and cause it to swish when
you walk.
· Add gathers to the long-sleeved version (d). Baste ⁄8" (3 mm)

1
from the sleeve lower edge, and leave long thread ends. Tie
the threads together at one end of the stitching row to se-
cure. Gently pull the bobbin thread at the other end until the
(d) Add gathers to the sleeve
sleeve circumference measures approximately 13" (33 cm).
and at the lower side seams.
Tie and trim the thread ends to secure. Baste 1⁄8" (3 mm) from
the edge to secure and flatten the gathers. Stitch binding to
the lower edges, turning under the ends for a clean finish.
· Gather the lower sides with drawcords. To do this, cut four

6 1⁄2" (16.5 cm) lengths of 3⁄4" (2 cm) -wide ribbon. Turn the ends
under 3⁄8" (1 cm) and edgestitch—the finished ribbon length
ribbon casing 5 3⁄4"
(14.5 cm) will be 5 3⁄4" (14.5 cm). Pin two ribbons to the wrong side of
one lower side seam. Edgestitch the ribbon lengthwise edges,
creating a casing with openings at the upper and lower ends.
Cut a 20" (51 cm) length of 1⁄4" (6 mm) drawcord, and attach a
safety pin to one end. Beginning at one lower casing opening,
feed the drawcord through the casing, cross over to the other
(e) Add casings to the lower side casing, and feed the drawcord from top to bottom. Tie small
seams; gather with drawcords. knots at the drawcord ends. Pull the cord ends to gather the
fabric; tie (e). Repeat on the other side.
Triangle Top . . . . . . ..................................................

................. . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Feel flirty in this striking and simple geometric-shaped top. Soft, silky
fabric drapes into generous, layered folds around the neckline and at the
sides. Different strap lengths and widths can be tried following the easy-
to-wear strap system.
Suitable Fabrics: Silky lightweight fabrics that fall easily into folds will yield
the best results. The top’s straightforward geometric shape allows the fabric
to take the spotlight. With no seams, only hemmed edges, this is a great
project to splurge on a luxurious silky fabric, such as charmeuse, crepe de
chine, challis, or laundered silk.
party time 75
materials
· 2 1⁄2 yards (2.3 m) of 45"(1.2 m) -wide fabric
Variations
· 1 3⁄4 yards (1.6 m) of 1⁄8" (3 mm) ribbon cord · Braid raw-edge fabric strips to create the straps. Cut
· sewing thread six 3⁄8" x 12 1⁄4" (1 x 31 cm) fabric strips and six 3⁄8" x 13 3⁄4"
(1 x 35 cm) strips. For each braid, layer three equal-length
tools strips together and stitch across one end to secure. Braid the
· sewing machine strips, and then stitch the opposite ends together. Stitch the
· scissors braids to the upper edge as instructed for each top.
· yardstick
· ruler · Change the drape of the top by adding trim, such as small
· measuring tape glass or metal beads, to one side edge. This will cause the
fabric to pull a little more in one direction.
· fabric pencil
· dressmaker pins
Instructions ............................................................................................................
.........................................................
. . . . . . . . . ... .....
.
1 Cutting instructions: Fold the fabric in half on the cross-

grain with the right sides facing. Use a yardstick to mark
edge, pin the end of one 11 1⁄2” (29 cm) ribbon to the right
corner. (When pinning the ribbons, overlap the edge about 1⁄2”
two points 43 1⁄2” (110.5 cm) apart on the fold. Mark another (1.3 cm) to allow for adjusting the strap when trying on the
point at a right angle and 43 1⁄2” (110.5 cm) from one of the top.) Pin the ribbon opposite end 7” (18 cm) away along the
marked points. Connect the points to create a triangle (a); same edge. Leave a 10” (25.5 cm) space, and then pin one
cut out leaving the fold intact. end of the second 11 1⁄2” (29 cm) ribbon to the edge. Measure
a 7” (18 cm) space, and pin the opposite end. Measure 9” (23
43 1⁄2” (110.5 cm)
cm) from the second strap, pin one end of a 13” (33 cm) rib-
fold line
bon to the edge, leave a 9 1⁄2” (24 cm) space, and pin the op-
posite end. Measure 11” (28 cm) from the third strap, pin one
43 1⁄2” (110.5 cm)
end of the remaining 13” (33 cm) ribbon to the edge, leave a
9 1⁄2” (24 cm) space, and then pin the opposite end (b).
selvage
(a) Draw the

triangle and
cut out. 13” (33 cm) ribbons 11 1⁄2” (29 cm) ribbons
9 1⁄2” 11” 9 1⁄2” 9” 7” 10” 7”
2 Finish all the edges with a 1⁄4” double-turned hem

(see page 139). Cut the ribbon cord into two 11 1⁄2” (29 cm)
(b) Pin the straps
to the longest
lengths and two 13” (33 cm) lengths. Lay the triangle on a edge.
flat surface with the wrong side facing up. On the longest
party time 77
Style Ideas 1
1. Metallic silk charmeuse 3

2. Retro-printed China silk
3. Pewter embroidered silk chiffon
. . . .
. .
. .
. .
. . ............ ...... ............. ...... ..... ...
. . .
. ............... ........................
. . ........ .............
. ..... ........ ...
. . . . . . . . . . ..........................................
. ..........................
. . . . . . ......
.
.......
3 Try on the top to check the strap length and positioning.
Insert your right arm through the strap at the corner, cross
the triangle over your chest, and insert your left arm through
the second strap. Wrap the triangle around your back, insert
your right arm through the third strap, and your left arm
through the final strap. Allow the remaining fabric to drape
behind your left shoulder. Adjust the strap lengths and posi-
tions as needed. The different strap lengths create a layered
look when the triangle is wrapped around you. The varied
spacing between the straps allows the fabric to drape into
folds. Remove the top, and securely stitch the straps in place.
(c) Turn up the lower
4 With the fabric faceup, pin the triangle lower corner to

the upper edge just under the last strap on the right. Stitch
point and secure.
the corner to the upper edge (c), or experiment with folding

up and stitching the corners to personalize the look.
5 Wrap the top around your body, inserting

your arms in the straps as you wrap (d).
(d) Wrap the top,

inserting your
arms in the straps.
Rectangle Bolero . . . . . . ..................................................

................. . . . . . . . . . . . .
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................................ .............. . ..........
C omplement a strapless dress or slinky top with this little jacket.

A simple rectangle transforms into a stylish shoulder-hugging bolero
with just one fold and two simple seams. The front folds down, hinting
at a rolled-edge collar.
Suitable Fabrics: A lightweight raw silk or silk taffeta will create a bolero
with sharper folds and crisper lines. Crepe de chine, silk dupioni, or jersey
will result in a much softer, fluid silhouette.
party time 79
materials Variations
· 1 3⁄4 yards (1.6 m) of 45" (1.2 m) -wide fabric
· sewing thread · Reduce the rectangle width to 9" (23 cm) for a shorter
bolero.
tools · Close the front with ties instead of a hook and eye.
· sewing machine Stitch two 10" (25.5 cm) lengths of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide
· scissors ribbon to the closure points; tie to close.
· yardstick
· ruler · For a soft, stretchy bolero, select a knit fabric such as
· measuring tape jersey or interlock. Reduce the rectangle total length to
· fabric pencil 56" (142 cm) for a snug fit, and then hem and sew the
· dressmaker pins seams using the stretch stitch on your machine.
· medium-size metal hook and eye
. . ....................
.
.. .. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. ....................
.
. ..
.........................
Instructions ............................................................................................
.......................................
1 Cutting instructions: Fold the fabric in half on the cross-

grain with right sides facing; match the selvages. Mark an 11”
3 Fold the rectangle in half widthwise with the right sides
facing; mark the fold at the edges. Stitch the short ends
x 30” (28 x 76 cm) rectangle with the shorter measurement together with a 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) seam (b).
on the fold; cut out (a).
11” (28 cm)
fold line
30” (76 cm)
selvage
(a) Draw the (b) Stitch the short ends together.

rectangle on
the fabric and
cut out. 4 Rearrange the resulting tube so the seam is centered on
the fold marks; press the seam open. Pin the rectangle upper
edges together on either side of the seam, and then stitch 5”
(12.5 cm) along the edge, centered on the seam. Press the
seam open (c).
2 Finish the rectangle edges with a 1⁄4” (6 mm)

double-turned hem (see page 139).
party time 81
Style Ideas
1. Indigo print cotton
2. Cornflower basket-weave 3
silk/cotton 1
3. Bright red fancy cotton
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.. ..
. . . . . . ..........................
. .
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. . .
. . . ....................
.......
(c) Stitch the upper edges together above the center seam.
5 Open up the rectangle layers with the fabric right sides

facing out and the center-back seam at the bottom. Slip your
arms through the openings. Fold down the excess fabric be-
hind the neck to create a collar. Pin the front edges together
under the bust where you would normally close a bolero. Pin-
mark the closure position on the right and left fronts; remove
the bolero. Stitch a hook and eye to the pinned positions (d).
(d) Add a hook and eye to close the front.

* pattern enclosed
Fitted Little Jacket . . . .

.
.....................................................
................. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
......... ............
................................ ............. .. ..........
S lanted side seams and bust darts create a streamlined look, and
a back tie adds waist shaping.
Suitable Fabrics: Light- to mediumweight fabric, such as a satin-backed

cotton or blended fabric, twill, canvas, or lightweight denim. Avoid overly
busy prints to best show off the subtle seaming details and darts.
party time 83

·1 ⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of mediumweight
1
1. Aqua and gold basket-weave silk/cotton
60" (1.5 m) -wide fabric
2. Blush pink silk taffeta
· 1 1⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of 1 1⁄2"(4 cm) -wide ribbon 3. Striped fancy silk taffeta
· 1 1⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide prefolded
bias binding (match or contrast the jacket fabric)
2
To finish all inside seams with bias binding,
an additional 3 3⁄4 yards (3.4 m) are needed.
· three metal hook-and-eye sets 3
· sewing thread
· pattern (enclosed) 1
tools
· sewing machine · dressmaker pins
· serger (optional) · medium-size safety pin
· scissors · ruler
· measuring tape . . . . . ........................................... ..... .................................................................
... .... ............
.. . . . ...................
..........
...........
Instructions 3 For the belt casing on the jacket back, use either a
7 ⁄4” (19.5 cm) length of 1 1⁄4” (3 cm) -wide ribbon, or make
3
the casing from fabric scraps. If you use ribbon, fold under
the ends 3⁄8” (1 cm), iron, and edgestitch. To make the casing
1 Cutting instructions: With the fabric folded lengthwise,

place the pattern center back on the fold; pin and cut out
from fabric scraps, cut a 1 3⁄4” x 7 3⁄4” (4.5 x 19.5 cm) fabric
strip. Fold and iron both lengthwise edges 1⁄4” (6 mm) toward
the fabric wrong side. Fold and iron the ends under 3⁄8”
the pattern. Snip the edges to mark the notches. Use the pin- (1 cm) and edgestitch. Pin the casing to the fabric right side
and-chalk method to mark the bust-dart positions (see at the marked positions. Stitch close to the casing lengthwise
page 135). Remove the pattern from the fabric. For longer edges, and reverse-stitch a couple of times at the ends to
sleeves, add the desired length to the pattern, and then fold secure (a, next page).
the fabric on the crossgrain and cut out.
2 On the fabric wrong side, fold and pin the bust darts;
4 With the fabric right sides facing, pin the side seams
together. Stitch the seams 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) from the fabric edge.
press flat. Stitch the darts, tapering the stitching at the dart Finish the seam raw edges together by serging, zigzag stitch-
point (see page 135). Press the darts up. Edgestitch the upper ing, or with narrow bias binding. Press the seams toward
fold of each dart on the fabric right side. Stitch the binding the back. On the fabric right side, topstitch next to the side
to the neckline, folding under the ends for a clean finish. seams, catching the seam allowances in the stitching.
Double-fold the center-front edges 1” (2.5 cm) to the
wrong side, and then stitch close to the inner folds.
..............................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................................................
...........................
...
armhole
(c) Stitch the partial
underarm seams,
slee
ve f line tapering the ends.
old old
line ve f bust dart
slee
armhole dart position
bust dart
t
ce
on
nt
fr
er
er
fr
nt
on
ce
7 Encase the sleeve lower raw edges in binding to finish.

Stitch binding to the jacket lower edge, fold up the edge 1”
(a) Make the casing and stitch to
(2.5 cm), press, and stitch the hem.
the marked points at the back.
5 With the fabric right sides facing, fold the sleeves to 8 Cut 1 3⁄4 yards (1.6 m) of ribbon, finish the ends, and
then attach a medium-size safety pin to one end. Feed the
match the underarm seams; pin. Stitch the seams 1⁄2”
(1.3 cm) from the fabric edge (b). Finish the raw seam edges ribbon through the back casing. Try on the jacket and pin it
together in the same manner as for the side seams. closed at the center front. Determine where to attach the
hooks and eyes, mark their positions with pins, and then
hand sew the hooks and eyes in place.
center front
9 To wear, tie the ribbon at the back to draw in the waist,

fold up the sleeve cuffs as desired, and you’ll be ready to
show off your new jacket (d)!
(b) Stitch and finish the underarm seams.
6 On the inside of the jacket and with right sides facing,

pin the sleeve to the armhole, matching the underarm
points. Pin the armhole darts carefully to the marked finish
points. Stitch the seam around the armhole, tapering off at
(d) Tie the ribbon at back,
the dart ends (c).
and fold sleeve edges up.
party time 85
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. . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
............. .
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..................................
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..................................
Variations
· Make a short-sleeved jacket for summer evenings by
removing 10" (25.5 cm) from the sleeve length. Double-
fold the sleeve lower edges 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) toward the wrong
side and stitch the hems.
· Eliminate the ribbon tie at the back. Cut an elastic strip

a couple of inches shorter than the marked casing line.
Stitch the elastic to the inside back waist, placing the
ends at the marked casing positions and stretching the
elastic between the marks as you sew. This will give the
same fitted result without a bow.
· Instead of using hooks and eyes, close the front with 3⁄8"
(1 cm) -wide ribbon. Cut two 12" (30.5 cm) -long ribbons;
hem the ends. Stitch a ribbon to the right and left front
edges opposite each other.
Circle-of-Friends Skirt . . . .
.
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......... ............
................................ ............. .. ..........
C ircle skirts were very popular in the 1950s, and it’s easy to understand
why. They’re simple to make and look great on practically every figure. This
skirt’s hemline dips below the knees at the back and looks fabulous with heels.
Suitable Fabrics: Light- to mediumweight fabric, especially pretty printed

cottons. Look for fabrics that fall into folds easily.
party time 87

· 2 ⁄ yards (2 m) of light- to mediumweight
1
4
60" (152.5 cm) -wide fabric 1. Bright red silk satin
·2⁄ 1
4 yards (2 m) of 2" (5 cm) -wide ribbon 2. Chartreuse printed China silk
3. Red floral-print cotton/silk twill
·5⁄ 1
2 yards (5 m) of 3⁄8" (1 cm) -wide bias binding
(match or contrast the skirt fabric)
· sewing thread 2
· 7" (18 cm) coil zipper
3
tools
· sewing machine · measuring tape 1
· serger (optional) · tailor’s chalk
· pattern paper · ruler
· scissors · pencil
· dressmaker pins · string
· hand-sewing needle
.....................................................................................................................
................................................. .............................
.... ...
Instructions
3 Mark the center front of the waist circle on the pattern.
1 Cutting instructions: Use pattern paper to draft the skirt

circle (see page 135). I suggest a radius of 27” (68.5 cm) for
Also mark the center-back seamline and fabric straight of
grain. The straight of grain should be parallel to the center-
back seam so the skirt will fall better on the hips, and it will
your first skirt. Keeping the string taut, carefully mark the be easier to insert the zipper (a).
circle outline with the pencil.
2 Calculate the radius of the waist-opening circle. Take

your waist measurement and add 1 1⁄2” (4 cm) for comfort.
Divide the result by 3.15 and again by 2. For example, if your
straight of grain
waist measures 27” (68.5 cm), the waist radius will equal
4 1⁄2” (11.5 cm).
(a) Mark the skirt

center back
and waist circle.

....................................................
....... ............................... ....................
..............
................................................................................................................ ................
...............
.......................
... ................... .....
.
4 To give the hem an oval shape, add 7” (18 cm) to the

center-back length. Draw an oval that blends into the circle
7 Press under the unstitched portion of the seam 1⁄2”
(1.3 cm). Press under the zipper upper ends 1⁄2” (1.3 cm).
outline. Extend the center-back seam to the oval edge. Cut Position the zipper facedown with the zipper teeth centered
out the entire pattern piece, cut along the center-back seam- on the fabric folded edge; stitch the zipper to the skirt. (See
line, and then cut out the waist circle (b). Inserting Zippers on page 138.)
8 Fold the ribbon in half lengthwise and press. Then fold

the ribbon in half widthwise, and finger-crease the fold. Turn
the skirt inside out. With the ribbon right side facing the skirt
straight of grain
= cut out
wrong side, match the creased fold to the skirt center front.
Pin one ribbon edge to the waist edge. Stitch the ribbon to
the skirt with a 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance (c). Fold up and
center back
lightly press the ribbon toward the waist edge. Edgestitch

the ribbon folded edge. Turn the skirt right side out and fold
the ribbon to the skirt right side, encasing the upper edge.
(b) Add 7” (18 cm) to
back length and draw Fold under the remaining ribbon edge 1⁄2” (1.3 cm), and then
a smooth oval shape. edgestitch the folded edge through all layers.
5 Press the fabric and lay it out flat. Position the pattern
with the center-back seamline aligned with the fabric straight
of grain. Cut out the pattern from the fabric. (c) Stitch the center-
back seam and
add the zipper.
6 Fold the circle in half, and place the center-back seams

together with the right sides facing. Leave 7 1⁄2” (19 cm)
unstitched from the waist edge to create an opening for the
zipper. Stitch the remainder of the seam with a 1⁄2” (1.3 cm)
9 Finish the ribbon ends that extend past the skirt to
form the ties. Fold in the ribbon ends and edges 1⁄2” (1.3 cm);
seam allowance, reinforcing the seam at the beginning and
press. Fold the ribbon in half lengthwise, matching the folded
end. Press the seam open, and then finish the seam edges
edges; pin. Edgestitch the edges together.
with bias binding. (See Finishing Seams, page 136, for
finishing with bias binding.)
party time 89
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..
............. . .. . . . .
............... . . . . . . . . ............ .........
............ ..
............................................................................
.............. ..........
........... ........
................................................... ...............
10 Double-fold the skirt lower edge 3⁄8” (1 cm) toward

the wrong side. For a neat finish, topstitch from the right side
approximately 5⁄16” (8 mm) from the lower edge. If you’re
worried about not catching part of the hem when you stitch,
sew the hem from the wrong side. Or serge the skirt lower
edge, then turn the edge 3⁄8” (1 cm) toward the wrong side
and topstitch in place.
Variations
· Make an extra-wide waistband so it gathers in folds
when tied.
· Create a longer ribbon waistband, then wrap it around

the waist a few times.
· For a shabby-chic look, use a pretty fabric, and then

zigzag stitch around the hem edge.
· For a more dramatic skirt, increase the back length—

just elongate the oval shape when making the pattern.
* pattern enclosed
Pleated Dress . . . . . . ......................................... ......

. . . . . . . . . . . .
......................................................
Fashion trends have lately been showcasing classic dressmaking

techniques, including pleats. This simple and elegant dress features a
pleated neckline to create flair. The sharp pleats open into soft folds around
the bust, giving this short dress a 1960s baby-doll effect. The look is girly
and fun and is perfect for a party or special dinner date.
Suitable Fabrics: Lightweight fabrics, such as cotton or blended broadcloth,

poplin, or piqué. For a dressy occasion, look for a blended cotton/silk fabric.
Avoid slippery satin fabrics, which can be difficult to sew into pleats. Bold
colors and prints look great with this simple silhouette.
party time 91
materials tools
·1 1
⁄4 yards (1.2 m) of light- to mediumweight 54" · sewing machine
or 60" (1.4 or 1.5 m) -wide fabric · serger (optional)
· 2 1⁄4 yards (2 m) of 1 1⁄2" (4 cm) -wide lightweight ribbon · scissors
· 1 1⁄4 yards (1.2 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide prefolded bias binding · measuring tape
· sewing thread · dressmaker pins
· pattern (enclosed) · medium-size safety pin
......................................................
Instructions .......................................................................
......... ........
........ .......
........ .......
........ .......
1 Cutting instructions: Fold the fabric lengthwise with right
sides facing and selvages aligned. Place the pattern center 3
........ ......
.............
.....
Finish the armhole edges with bias binding. .
front on the fabric fold. Pin around the pattern and cut out.
Snip all notches at the edges before removing the pattern
from the fabric. 4 With right sides facing, place the center-back seams
together. Stitch the seam 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) from the fabric edge.
2 With the fabric right side facing up and starting with

the center-front panel, fold each pleat and pin them the same
Finish the raw seam edges together by serging, zigzag
stitching, or with a narrow bias binding. Press the seam in
the direction of the pleat folds.
direction. On the back panels, fold and pin only the first three
pleats from the curved armholes. The center-back seam is
hidden in a pleat, so do not fold the pleat closest to the cen-
ter back at this time. Press all pleats flat. Baste 1⁄4” (6 mm)
5 Turn the dress right side out. Fold the last pleat at the
center back and pin it in place. Press the pleat flat and baste
across the dress upper edge to secure the pleats. Edgestitch 1
⁄4” (6 mm) across the dress upper edge to secure. Edge-
each pleat 2 1⁄2” (6.5 cm) from the upper edge (a). stitch the pleat 2 1⁄2” (6.5 cm) from the dress upper edge.
pleat notch seam allowance notch
(a) Pin, stitch, and

6 Turn the dress wrong side out. To create the tie casings,
cut two 7 1⁄4” (18.5 cm) lengths of ribbon. Fold the ends under
press the pleats, 3
⁄8” (1 cm) and stitch flat to secure. With the ribbon right
and then side facing the dress wrong side, align one ribbon lengthwise
edgestitch from edge with the front upper edge; pin. Stitch 1⁄4” (6 mm) from
side seam fold
the right side. the edge. Repeat to attach the remaining ribbon to the dress
side seam fold
back
back
upper back (b).

center
center
party time 93
Style Ideas
Variations 1. Crimson silk taffeta
2. Iridescent blue silk/
· Instead of pleats, add 1" (2.5 cm) above the front and 1 polyester taffeta
back upper edges. Double-fold the edges 1" (2.5 cm) to 3. Orange basket-weave
the fabric wrong side, and then stitch close to the inner cotton
folds, leaving the sides open to create a casing. Feed a
1 1⁄2-yard (1.4 m) ribbon through the front and back cas-
ings to create straps. Try on the dress and pin the strap
length to fit you. Join the ribbon ends with a French seam 2
(see page 138), and edgestitch the seam to keep it flat.
· This pattern works very well as a top. Simply shorten the

skirt length 12" (30.5 cm) when cutting out the fabric.
.....................
...............
............... 3
.................
.... ..... .
.... ...... .
...........
.............
. .................
....................... .................................................................
7 Press the ribbons up and over the edges to the dress
right side; press flat. Edgestitch the remaining ribbon edge
to the dress right side, leaving the ends open. Reverse-stitch
at the seam ends to strengthen the casing openings. Cut a
ribbon 1 3⁄4 yards (1.6 m) long, double-fold the ends under
1” (2.5 cm), and box-stitch for a clean finish (see page 141).
Attach a medium size safety pin to one ribbon end and feed it
through the front and back casings, placing the loose ribbon
ends at one side. Try on the dress and tie the ribbon to fit
comfortably (c).
(b) Stitch the

ribbon casings
to the dress
upper edges..
center back
(c) Thread a ribbon

through the
casings and tie
the dress to fit.
Pleated Puffball Skirt . . . . . . ..................................................

................. . . . . . . . . . . . .
........... .............
................................ .............. . ..........
The puffball skirts of the 1980s have re-entered the spotlight. This
simplified pleated version is very easy to make, and the pattern can be
drawn directly on the fabric—no pattern necessary! Finish the waist with
binding or a lavish ribbon. The result is impressive and always very festive
and fun. So put on your puffball and a pair of high heels, and get ready to
hit the town!
Suitable Fabrics: Light- or mediumweight fabrics, such as broadcloth,

cotton shirting, poplin, or silk taffeta. For best results, make sure that the
fabric is not soft. Ideally, the fabric should fold crisply to hold the pleats.
Look for a bright color or a pretty print to make this skirt the focus of
your outfit.
party time 95
materials tools
·2 1
45" or 60" (1.2 or 1.5 m) -wide fabric · serger (optional)
· 1 yard (1 m) of 3⁄8" (1 cm) -wide prefolded cotton · scissors
bias binding · seam ripper
· 8" (20.5 cm) size 3 nylon zipper · measuring tape
· small hook and eye · dressmaker pins
· sewing thread · hand-sewing needle
· tailor’s chalk or pencil
· yardstick
............................................................................................................
Instructions .........................
.....................
....................
.................
...........
.....
1 Cutting instructions: The skirt is made from a very long

rectangle that is drawn directly onto the fabric wrong side.
To determine the skirt width, take your waist measurement
and add 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) for comfort. Multiply the result by three
to allow for pleats and seam allowances, and then divide by
two since the rectangle will be drawn on the fold. For an
average above-knee length, make the skirt length 40 1⁄2”
center back
(103 cm). (The length will be folded in half to form the
puff.) For example, if your waist is 27” (68.5 cm), the drawn
rectangle will be 40 1⁄2” x 41 1⁄4” (103 x 105 cm). With the
fold line
fabric right sides facing, fold the fabric on the crossgrain to

just over half of the width measurement. Use a yardstick and
tailor’s chalk or pencil to draw the rectangle on the fabric.
Cut out the skirt leaving the fabric fold intact. Mark the 5⁄8”
fabric selvage
(1.5 cm) center-back seam allowances and the skirt center mark pleat positions.
front on the rectangle upper and lower edges. Also mark

1 5⁄8” (4 cm) pleats across the upper and lower edges be-
tween the seam allowances. Mark the zipper lower position pleated puffball
skirt pattern
8” (20.5 cm) below the center-back upper edges.
center front
Cutting the Pleated Puffball Skirt

party time 97
Style Ideas
1. Cobalt blue satin-finished fine twill
2. Fancy striped silk taffeta
3. Printed plain-weave cotton 2
. . . . . ............
.
.
.. ..
.......................... . . . . . . . ...................
.. ..
.........................
............................... . . . . . . . . . . . . ...........................
.
.............................................................................................
..........................................................
2 Each three pleat marks make up one pleat, with the cen-
ter mark being the fold. Working along the rectangle upper
edge, bring the first and third mark together and pin the pleat.
Continue pinning the pleats across the edge, pinning them all
in one direction; iron the pleats flat. Double-check the waist
edge measurement. It should be your waist measurement
plus 1 3⁄4” (4.5 cm). If the waist edge measures a little too
long or short, adjust a few of the pleats at the skirt back to al-
low for the difference and then press again. Baste 1⁄4” (6 mm)
from the upper edge to secure the pleats. Repeat to fold and
pin the pleats along the lower edge. Be sure to fold the pleats
in the same direction as the upper edge. Iron the pleats flat
and baste 1⁄4” (6 mm) from the lower edge.
3 Optional: Edgestitch along each pleat 2 1⁄2” (6.5 cm)

from the fabric edge. This is not essential, but the stitching
will flatten and sharpen the pleats at the waist (a, next page).
............
. . . . . . . . . . . .........................................................................................................................................................
........................... . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.............................. ............... ..
.........................
center back
6 Pin the center-back edges together. Set the machine for
the longest straight stitch. Using a 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) seam, begin
sewing the center-back seam at the pleated edge, and stitch
to the marked zipper lower-end point. Change the stitch
lower edge fold
to a normal length and continue sewing the seam from the

zipper lower point to the skirt lower edge, backstitching at
the seam end. Press the seam open. The longer stitches will
be removed after the zipper is sewn in place. Pin the zipper
facedown and centered on the back seam. With the zipper
foot, baste the zipper tape to the skirt, stitching close to the
zipper teeth. On the skirt right side, topstitch around the
optional: edgestitch 2 1⁄2” (6.5 cm) of each pleat.
zipper 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) from the seamline. Use a seam ripper to
carefully remove the basting holding the seam together. Also
(a) Pleat the skirt long edges. remove the basting around the zipper (c).
4 With the fabric wrong sides facing, fold the skirt in

half lengthwise, match the pleats, and pin the edges to- (c) Stitch the center-back
gether. Baste the edges together with a 1⁄4” (6 mm) seam seam, baste the zipper
allowance (b). to the wrong side,
topstitch from right side,
and then remove the
center back
basting stitches.
(b) Fold the skirt in half

matching the pleats;
baste the edges
together.
7 Whipstitch the center-back seam at the lower corners
to keep the seam allowances open.
5 Pin the fabric layers together at each end of the

8 Stitch 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) prefolded bias binding to the waist
edge, boxing in the corners for a clean finish.
rectangle, and baste 1⁄4” (6 mm) from the edge. Finish the
edges with serging, zigzag stitching, or binding with very
lightweight nylon bias binding.
9 Stitch a hook and eye to opposite edges of the center
back on the bias binding. (See page 140 for tips on sewing
hooks and eyes.)
party time 99
. . . . . . . .......
.. ..
..................
. . . . . . . . . . . .............................
................................................... .. ... .
............................................................................... ..............................................
10 To maintain the pouf, do not press a crease at the

skirt lower edge.
Variations
· Instead of finishing the waist with bias binding, use a 72"
(183 cm) length of 3" (7.5 cm) -wide ribbon. Attach the ribbon
after inserting the zipper. Turn under the ribbon ends 3⁄8" (1
cm) and again 1" (2.5 cm); box-stitch around the ends (see
page 141). Fold the ribbon in half lengthwise with the wrong
sides facing; press. Then fold the ribbon in half widthwise
and finger-crease the fold; unfold the ribbon. With the ribbon
right side facing the skirt wrong side, match the creased fold
to the center front, and align one ribbon edge with the waist-
line edge; pin. Stitch the ribbon to the skirt with a 1⁄2" (1.3 cm)
seam allowance. Fold up and lightly press the ribbon toward
the waist edge. Edgestitch the pressed fold. Turn the ribbon to
the skirt right side, encasing the upper edge. Fold under the
remaining ribbon edge 1⁄2" (1.3 cm), and then edgestitch the
folded edge to the skirt through all layers. Try on the skirt,
and tie the ribbon at the back, or wrap the ribbon to the front
and tie.
· To create even more puff, add a layer of netting inside your

skirt. This will help keep the pleats crisp and help the bottom
puff out (especially when sewing with lightweight fabrics).
Cut a rectangle of mediumweight netting the same size as
the skirt rectangle. Pin the netting to the wrong side of the
fabric, and baste the upper and lower edges together. Treat
the fabric layers (fabric and netting) as one as you stitch the
pleats and construct the skirt.
Weekly Circular:
Bell-Shaped Hat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..............................................
................. ............................
................................ ............................
With just a few folds and minimal stitching, a circle is transformed

into a flattering bell-shaped hat. This hat blends the sharpness of a fedora
with the mystery of a bucket hat.
Suitable Fabrics: A crisp medium- to heavyweight fabric, such as cotton

twill, gabardine, canvas, or denim. Amazing remnants can be found at
upholstery-fabric stores. Make a rain hat from mediumweight coated
cotton, such as laminated tablecloth fabrics.
party time 101

· 3⁄4 yard (0.7 m) of 45" (1.2 m) -wide fabric
· 2 yards (1.8 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide 1. Reversible polka-dot silk blend twill
prefolded bias binding (optional) 2. Heavy basket-weave cotton
· sewing thread 3. Striped fancy cotton broadcloth
tools
· sewing machine
· serger (optional)
3
· scissors
· measuring tape 1
· dressmaker pins
· fabric pencil 2
· string
............................
Instructions ....................................................
........................................................
.......................................................................................
1 Cutting instructions: Place the fabric facedown on a flat

surface and mark a circle with an 11 1⁄2” (29 cm) radius using
the string-and-pencil method (see page 135) (a).
2 Cut out the circle. Double-fold the fabric edges 1⁄4”

(6 mm) to the wrong side and edgestitch, or stitch 1⁄4”
11 1⁄2” (29 cm)
(6 mm) prefolded binding to the edge.
3 Fold the circle in half, with the right sides facing. Mark
a point 8 3⁄4” (22 cm) from each end of the fold. Mark a point
8” (20.5 cm) from the fold on each cut edge. Use a ruler to
draw a line that connects the two points on each side. Stitch
the layers together along the marked lines (b, next page).
(a) Draw a circle on the fabric.

.......................................
................................................. ............
..........
..............
..
. . . . . . .........
.... . . . . .........
....... ........ .........
..
........ . . .
.......
........
.. . . . .
. .......
.......
. . . . . .......
....... .......
.......
..... .......
......
....... .......
.. ......
.......
5 Refold the hat so the side seams are centered. To create

darts at the top of the hat, fold and press the upper points to-
8”
gether, and crease the fabric between the points downward.
(20.5 cm) On one point, mark 1” (2.5 cm) down from the corner and
fold line
5” (12.5 cm) on either side of the stitched side seam. Lightly
8 3⁄4” (22 cm) draw a smooth curve that connects the points and tapers off
at the ends. Stitch the curved line being careful not to catch
(b) Mark the side seams and stitch. fabric from the other point. Repeat on the other side (d).
With the fabric as flat as possible, use the iron tip to press
the points toward the hat center.
4 To give the hat structure, fold and press the corners

inward along the stitched lines. Edgestitch the edges to only
the outer fabric layer (c). This stitching will be decorative
when the bag is turned right side out.
(d) Mark and stitch the upper points to round them off.
(c) Fold in the corners
fold line and stitch.

party time 103
Variations ... ...

....
Increase the circle radius to 13" (33 cm) for a more
... .... ....
....
generous fold-up brim at the front.
....
....
....
....
...
....
....
....
....
.....
...
....
.....
.... ...
.....
.....
. . . .
....
......
....
......
.....
......
......
.......
........
........ ......... ....... .......
........
...........
......... ..........
..............
.............. ........................................
...............
.................................
6 Turn the hat right side out, and try on. Position the
folded corners toward the back of your head, and fold
the brim up around your face (e).
(e) Wear the hat, turning up

the edges as desired.
* pattern enclosed
Envelope Clutch . . . . . . ..................................................

................. . . . . . . . . . . . .
........... .............
................................ .............. . ..........
O rganize your essentials for an evening out in a envelope-inspired

clutch that’s sure to be a fun and functional conversation piece. This project
features just a few folds and a button closure. Consider stitching a cluster
of vintage buttons to the front. For a dressy occasion, cover the bag with
mélange of randomly placed small colored beads or sequins. The sky’s
the limit!
Suitable Fabrics: Heavyweight stiff fabric, such as canvas, twill, duck cloth,
or coated cotton, will create a firm-bodied clutch. Hunt through the remnant
bins at an upholstery-fabric shop for a colorful scrap. Because this pattern is
so small, it can easily be made from 1⁄2 yard (0.5 m) of fabric.
party time 105
· 1⁄2 yard (0.5 m) of heavyweight 45" (1.2 m)-wide fabric
· 1⁄2 yard (0.5 m) of 1" (2.5 cm) -wide grosgrain ribbon · Make a lined bag by cutting the pattern from two
· 1 1⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide prefolded bias different fabrics. Cut the outer layer from heavyweight
binding fabric and the lining from a contrasting lightweight

fabric. With the fabric wrong sides facing, pin the two
· sewing thread
fabrics together; stitch 1⁄8" (3 mm) from the edges.
Construct the bag, treating both layers as one.
tools · For a cleaner look, make the bag without the strap.
· sewing machine
· scissors
· small button (1⁄2" [1.3 cm] wide)
............................................ ..... ..............................................................

...................................................... .........................
... .
Instructions
4 For the hand strap, cut 12 1⁄2” (31.5 cm) of 1” (2.5 cm)
-wide ribbon. Fold under and press the ribbon ends 1”
sides facing. Place the pattern center on the fabric fold, and (2.5 cm). With the fabric right side facing up, position and
pin around the pattern edges. Cut out the bag. pin the ribbon just below the upper-flap foldline. Box-stitch
1” (2.5 cm) of the ribbon ends to the bag (see page 141) (a).
2 To make the button loop, cut 2 1⁄2” (6.5 cm) of prefolded

bias binding. Edgestitch the lengthwise edges together, and
finish the ends with a narrow zigzag stitch. Fold the binding upper flap fold line
strip in half and finger-crease the fold. Then fold both ends fold line
side flap
fold line
side flap
up creating a triangle-shaped point at the fold. With the ends

aligned with the fabric edge, pin the loop to the upper flap
lower flap fold line
center on the wrong side. The loop portion should be facing
toward the bag center. Stitch across the loop ends 1⁄8”
(3 mm) from the edge.
(a) Box-stitch the ribbon
ends to the bag.
3 Stitch binding around the bag edges encasing the loop

ends. Fold the binding and pivot the fabric as needed to turn 5 Fold the side flaps in, and then fold up the lower flap so
the corners (see Pivoting Corners with Binding, page 137). the wrong sides are facing; press the folded edges. Blind-
Fold the loop so it extends 3⁄4” (2 cm) past the flap edge; stitch the lower flap to the side flaps where they overlap.
edgestitch to secure the loop facing outward. Make the blindstitches as inconspicuous as possible, and
secure the seam ends with a few extra stitches (b).
party time 107
Style Ideas
· Instead of a button-and-loop closure, use ribbons to 1. Persian green cotton
twill with slubs
secure the flap. Simply stitch a 6" (15 cm) length of 1⁄4"
1 2. Indigo cotton herringbone
(6 mm) -wide ribbon to the upper flap in the same posi-
3. Modern print cotton
tion as the loop. Hand-stitch another 6" (15 cm) ribbon
canvas
to the center of the lower edge.
· The simplicity of this design leaves plenty of room for

customizing. Think of your clutch bag as a conversation
starter.
2
.......................................... . . . . . . . . . ..............
...... ................ ......... .......
........ ...............................................................................................................
....................................................................
upper flap fold line
(b) Fold in the side

and lower flaps and
blindstitch together.
6 Turn the upper flap down and press the foldline. With
the bag closed, position and stitch a button underneath the
loop. Button the loop to close the bag (c).
(c) The finished clutch

108
chapter 4
summer flair
* pattern enclosed
Beach Cover-Up ..............................

............................ .....................................................................
...................
E ven if you dare to bare, you may still want to cover up during a day
at the beach. Featuring a front tie that gathers the fabric at the waist, the
look of this cover-up is flattering and casual.
Suitable Fabrics: Lightweight natural fabrics. Soft printed cotton or linen

fabrics will keep you comfortable and cool, especially shirting-weight fab-
rics. For minimal coverage, consider sheer fabrics, such as a printed batiste
or cotton voile.
109
materials
· 2 1⁄4 yards (2 m) of lightweight 54" (1.4 m) -wide fabric
· 3⁄4 yard (0.7 m) of 1 1⁄2" (4 cm) -wide ribbon Variations
· 2 yards (1.8 m) of 3⁄8" (1 cm) -wide rope ribbon · To cover more at the center front, finish the belt casing
· 1⁄2 yard (0.5 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide prefolded just past the side seams, instead of at the center-front
cotton bias binding seams. Feed the belt through, and then cross the front
· sewing thread panels over each other before tying.
· Make a belt by braiding three different colored ribbons.
Tie the ends in an overhand knot, and then feed the belt
tools
through the belt casing with a safety pin.
· sewing machine
· scissors
· dressmaker pins
. . . . . ............................................................................. .....................................................
... ... .
. . .............................
Instructions . .
.......................
.......... . .
3 With right sides facing, fold the cover-up at the shoul-

ders, matching the side seams. Pin the sleeve and side seams
right sides facing and selvages aligned. Place the pattern
together, matching front and back waist notches. Stitch the
seam 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) from the fabric edge. Finish the raw seam
center back on the fabric fold; pin around the pattern edges. edges together with serging, zigzag stitching, or using a nar-
Cut out the pattern, and snip the waist notch points. row bias binding (b). Press the side seams toward the back.
2 To hem the center-front edges, double-fold the edges

⁄2” (1.3 cm) toward the wrong side, and then stitch 3⁄8”
1
(1 cm) from the fabric edge. Encase the neckline edge with
center front
the binding, folding under the ends for a clean finish (a).
(b) Stitch the sleeve
and side seams;
finish as desired.
(a) Finish the center front
shoul
fold l
der
ine
and neck edges.
4 Double-fold the sleeve and body lower edges 1⁄2”
(1.3 cm) toward the fabric wrong side. Stitch the hems 3⁄8”
(1 cm) from the fabric edges.
nt
cen
fro
ter
ter
5
fro
cen
nt
Turn the cover-up right side out and try on. Mark
your natural waistline with pins at the side seams.
summer flair 111
Style Ideas
· Add a patch pocket made from a contrasting fabric to 1. Asparagus green cotton voile
one, or both, sides of the front. Using a ruler and pencil, 2. Retro-print cotton shirting
1
mark a 7 1⁄2" x 9 1⁄4" (19 x 23.5 cm) rectangle on the fabric 3. Sky blue oxford cotton
wrong side; cut out. Fold the longer sides and lower
edge under 3⁄8" (1 cm); press. Double-fold the pocket
upper edge 1" (2.5 cm) to the wrong side and stitch the
inner folded edge. Try on the cover-up; position and pin
the pocket where you prefer. Stitch around the pocket
2
sides and lower edge.
................
..
............ ...........
.......... .......... 3
.......... .........
.......... ........
......... .........
.................
................... .
................
... ....... .. . . . . . . . .......
..... ........ .... ........
Place the cover-up opened flat on your work surface with ...................................................................
the fabric right side faceup. To create the belt casing, pin 1 1⁄2”
(4 cm) -wide ribbon across the cover-up at the waistline,
using the pins at the side seams as guides. Fold and press
the ribbon ends under at the center front for a clean finish.
Edgestitch the lengthwise ribbon edges, reverse-stitching at
the casing openings to secure.
6 Tie the rope ribbon ends in an overhand knot to

prevent fraying. Attach a medium-size safety pin to one end
of the ribbon and thread it through the casing. Adjust the
ribbon so the length on both sides is even without gathering (c) Tie the ribbon to
the fabric. Secure the ribbon on the wrong side of the center gather the waist.
back with hand stitching to prevent it from coming out when
the cover-up is laundered.
7 Put on the cover-up and tie at the front to gather the

waist (c).
* pattern enclosed
Fun-in-the-Sun Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . ............... .. .

. .
. .
. .
. .
. ....................
........... .........................................
.................................................................. ....
A ribbon gathers the upper neckline and then ties behind the neck to
form a halter. Elastic inserted at the back and high waistline ensures a
comfortable and close fit.
Suitable Fabrics: Most lightweight fabrics, especially printed cottons, that

drape well. Because of the elastic, avoid fabrics that would be difficult to
sew, such as a slippery satin.
summer flair 113

· 1 yard (1 m) of light- to mediumweight 60" (1.5 m)
-wide fabric 1. Retro-print paisley plain-weave cotton
· 1 ⁄4 yards (1.6 m) of ⁄8" (1.5 cm) -wide satin ribbon

3 5 2. Yellow basket-weave cotton
3. Sky blue cotton shirting
· 1 yard (1 m) of 1 1⁄2" (4 cm) -wide satin ribbon
(or other trim)
2
· 1 3⁄4 yards (4.5 cm) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide elastic
· sewing thread
tools
· sewing machine
· serger (optional) 1
· scissors
· measuring tape
· dressmaker pins 3
· tailor’s chalk or fabric pencil
. . . . . .............................................................................................................................
.... ....
. . . . . . . . .....................................
....................... .
Instructions ... . . . . .
center front

right sides facing and selvages aligned. Place the pattern fun-in-the-sun
dress pattern
center front on the fabric fold. Pin around the pattern
lower edge
edges, and cut out the dress. Transfer the elastic position
elastic positions
lines to the fabric wrong side, using a ruler and tailor’s
chalk or fabric pencil. Before marking the garment fabric,
test the marking method on a fabric scrap to make sure
the marks will not show through to the right side.
center back
selvage
Cutting the Fun-in-the-Sun Dress

..................................................
........................
............................................................... .............
............
.......... ..........
....... ........
.......
....... .......
...... ......
......
......
.
. . . .....
.. . .
.... .....
....
2
.
...... .....
Cut two 7 1⁄2” (19 cm) strips of elastic. Working on the .. .... .....
.... ..... .
fabric wrong side of the dress back upper edge, pin one end .....
......
.. .... ....
....
of the elastic to the seam edge and the opposite end to the row, and then stretch the elastic along the line as you stitch.
elastic end point. Use the sewing machine hand wheel to Repeat to attach the remaining elastic strip to the other side.
position the needle in one elastic end, lower the presser foot,
and then sew forward and back a few stitches to secure the
elastic to the fabric. Stitch approximately 1⁄2” (1.3 cm), and
then hold the fabric behind the presser foot with one hand as
4 Cut a 28” (71 cm) piece of elastic for the waistline.
Fold the elastic in half and mark the center with a pencil.
you stretch the elastic with the other hand over the marked Position the elastic along the marked waistline. Pin the elastic
line as you stitch along the elastic center. At the end, back- ends at the center-back seam and the center at the dress
stitch a few stitches, pivot the presser foot to a right angle, center-front foldline. Stretch the elastic as you stitch it to
and then stitch across the elastic width to secure. Double- the waistline (b).
fold the dress upper edge 1⁄4” (6 mm) to the wrong side to
encase the elastic; pin. Edgestitch the inner folded edge by
stretching the fabric flat as you sew (a). Repeat to add elastic
elastic
to the remaining back upper edge.
center front (b) Stitch elastic to

double-fold 1⁄4” (6 mm)
the second rows
ack
back
and the waistline.
center b
center
center back
(a) Stitch elastic to the dress back upper edge. 5 To form the casing for the neck ribbon, fold the front
upper edge 3⁄8” (1 cm) to the wrong side; iron flat. Fold under
Double-fold to the wrong side; stitch in
place, stretching the fabric as you sew. the edge again 5⁄8” (1.5 cm), and press flat. Stitch close to the
inner fold, backstitching at each end to strengthen the casing
3 Cut two 7 7⁄8” (20 cm) pieces of elastic. Turn under one
end of each piece 3⁄8” (1 cm), and secure with a few stitches.
openings (c).
With the turned-under end facing the fabric wrong side, pin
the elastic raw end to the second row at the center-back
seam. Pin the turned-under end to the elastic end point. backstitch to reinforce
openings at both ends. (c) Fold under the upper
Secure the elastic raw end in the same manner as the first
edge and edgestitch.
summer flair 115
Variation
Increase the ribbon-tie length to 70" (1.8 m). Wrap the
ribbon around the neck back, and then bring the ribbon
to the neck front and tie at one side.
.......
.......
.......
...... .......
........
........
...... ........
......... .
...........
....... ...........
........
....... ................
........
.........
. . . . . . . . . . . . .
......................
...........
............. ..............................................
.........................................
..................
6 With fabric right sides facing, fold the dress at the

center front. Pin the center-back seams together match-
ing the elastic strip ends. Stitch with a 5⁄8” (1.5 cm) seam
center back
allowance (d). Iron the center-back seam open. Finish the
seam raw edges by serging, zigzag stitching, or encas-
ing the edges with a narrow bias binding. Whipstitch the
seam open at the upper and lower ends.
7 To hem, double-fold the lower edge 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) to

the wrong side, and stitch in place next to the inner fold.
(d) Stitch the center-
To decorate the hem, edgestitch both edges of 1 1⁄2” (4 cm)
back seam.
-wide satin ribbon to the outside lower edge.
8 For the halter tie, cut a 60” (1.5 m) length of 5⁄8”

(1.5 cm) -wide ribbon. Turn under both ends 3⁄8” (1 cm),
turn under again 1” (2.5 cm), and iron flat. Box-stitch the
ends (see page 141 for tips on box-stitching trim ends).
Attach a safety pin to one ribbon end, and feed the ribbon
through the casing at the front upper edge (e).
9 Try on the dress, and tie the ribbon behind your neck.
(d) Finish ribbon
ends and thread
through the
casing.
* pattern enclosed
Bikini . . . . . . .
....
..............................................
................. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. ............................
................................................................ ....
S ummer won’t be the only thing that sizzles when you hit the beach
in this bikini. Each component is easily made from its own pattern piece.
The bikini top is a band of fabric that is tied at the center to create flattering
separated cups. The center tie extends to tie behind the neck for a halter
look. The bikini bottom ties at the sides. Neither the top nor bottom require
seams; simply hem the fabric edges.
Suitable Fabrics: Look for fun, light- or mediumweight printed two-way

stretch fabrics with spandex, stretch cotton-nylon blended fabric, or a
cotton-polyester jersey. If you aren’t planning on spending too much time
in the water, a lightweight stretch terrycloth bikini is comfy and cute.
summer flair 117
materials tools
· 1 yard (1 m) of lightweight 45" (1.2 m) -wide fabric · sewing machine
· 1 1⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of 3⁄4" (2 cm) -wide ribbon · scissors
· 1⁄2 yard (0.5 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide prefolded bias · measuring tape
binding · dressmaker pins
· 1 3⁄4 yards (1.6 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide cotton · tailor’s chalk or fabric pencil
wrapped elastic (preferably chlorine resistant)
· sewing thread
.. ......... ....... ....... ...... ....................................................

Top Instructions .................. ...
.... .... .... ..
. .................
..................
........ .
..
the right sides facing and matching the selvages. Place the
should extend 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) past the binding edge. Stitch the
loop to the binding, reverse-stitch, and then stitch another
pattern center front on the fabric fold. Pin around the pattern row to secure. Repeat to attach the remaining loops to the
edges and cut out. other three corners (a).
2 Double-fold under the long edges 1⁄4” (6 mm), press,

and then edgestitch, using the stretch stitch on your ma-
chine. Gather the short side edges by basting 1⁄8” (3 mm)
from the fabric edges and leaving long thread ends. Tie the
threads together at one end of each stitching row to secure.
(a) Bind the ends and add the loops.
Gently pull the bobbin thread at the other end until the fabric
between the notches measures approximately 2” (5 cm).
Secure the thread by tying and trimming the ends. Sew the
gathered edge with a regular stitch length and a 1⁄8” (3 mm) 4 For the center tie, use either a ribbon or leftover fabric
scraps. If you use ribbon, cut a 1 1⁄2-yard (1.4 m) length of
seam allowance to secure and flatten the gathers. Stitch
binding to the side edges turning under the ends for a clean
3
⁄4” (2 cm) ribbon. Double-fold under the ribbon ends 1⁄4”
finish. (6 mm) and edgestitch. If you use fabric scraps, cut a 2” x
54” (5 cm x 1.4 m) strip. Fold the ends under 1⁄4” (6 mm);
press. Fold under the lengthwise edges 1⁄4” (6 mm), press,
3 To make the side loops, cut four 1 3⁄4” (4.5 cm) pieces
of 1⁄4” (6 mm) ribbon. Fold each ribbon in half, and stitch
and then fold the strip in half lengthwise so the edges match
and wrong sides are facing. Edgestitch around the tie. Tie the
the ends together with a 1⁄8” (3 mm) seam allowance. Pin a strip around the center of the bikini top to gather the fabric
folded loop to the wrong side of one corner. The folded loop and create two cups and a halter tie.
summer flair 119
Style Ideas
1. Retro-strip four-way-stretch jersey polyester
2. Red and white swirl–print four-way-stretch polyester
3. Retro-print four-way-stretch polyester with spandex
3
1
. . . . .....
.. .
.
.......................... . . . . . ...... .........
.. ..
....................
..................... . . . . . . . ....... ...........
.. .
........................
....... ................... . . . . . . . . . . . . . .......... ...............
................. ......
....................................
.............................
5 Cut two 22” (56 cm) lengths of 1⁄4” (6 mm) ribbon.

Double-fold the ribbon ends 1⁄4” (6 mm) to the wrong side
and edgestitch. Feed one of the ribbons through the loops at
one side. Position the ribbon center at the loops. Keeping the
ribbon ends together, tie a knot a few inches (centimeters)
from the loops. Tie the ribbon ends together. Repeat on the
other side (b).
(b) Thread the ribbon ties

through the loops and
tie the ends together.
...............
.............................................. ............ ...............
Bot tom Instructions ..............
.............
. .....
....
........
........
........
sides facing, and matching the selvages. Place the pattern
.........
....
top edge
center front/back on the fabric fold. Pin around the pattern
edges and cut out. Use a fabric pencil to mark the elastic
positions on the inside leg edges.
bottom edge
2 Cut two 18 1⁄2” (47 cm) lengths, one 9 1⁄2” (24 cm)
length, and one 14 1⁄2” (37 cm) length of elastic tape. Pin the
9 1⁄2” (24 cm) elastic to the wrong side of the front upper (c) All edges of the bikini bottom are finished.
edge at the marked position. (The elastic is the same length

as the edge.) Stitch the elastic with a zigzag stitch narrower
than the elastic width. Pin the 14 1⁄2” (37 cm) length of elastic 4 Fold up the front portion so the fabric wrongs sides are
facing and tie the straps on one side. Try on the bottom and
to the upper back edge at the marked position; stitch in place
with a narrow zigzag. (The elastic is the same length as the tie the other straps to fit your size (d).
edge.) Pin the remaining 18 1⁄2” (47 cm) elastic pieces to the
marked positions on the wrong side of the inner leg edges.
The elastic is slightly shorter than the edge length, so you
will have to stretch it lightly as you stitch. Stitch in place with
a narrow zigzag.
3 Turn under all edges 3⁄8” (1 cm) toward the fabric wrong
side and pin. Stitch 3⁄16” (5 mm) from the fabric edge, using
(d) Tie the straps to fit your hips.
the stretch stitch on your machine. Lightly stretch the fabric
flat when stitching the inner leg edges (c).
summer flair 121
Variations
· For a strapless version, eliminate the halter ties, leaving just
a short tie at the center of the cups.
· If you’re in a rush to get to the beach, make a quick-and-easy

bikini top. You’ll need a 2-yard (1.8 m) length of soft, light-
weight fabric. Place the fabric on a flat surface, and use a ruler
and pencil to lightly mark a long rectangle on the fabric. For
the length, measure around your bust and multiply by two.
The width should be 14" (35.5 cm). To avoid too much bulk at
the back tie, use the ruler to taper the rectangle ends to 7"
(18 cm) wide; cut out. Tie 1 1⁄2 yards (1.4 m) of 1" (2.5 cm) -wide
..........
........ ribbon around the rectangle center. Tie the fabric at your back
........ and the ribbon behind your neck.
........
........
.... fall in love with a very lightweight stretch fabric, but
· .If...you
.. ....
have. .concerns
........ about transparency, make a lining by cutting
.....twice.
.
the pattern .......... Pin the two layers together with wrong
.
...treat
sides facing, and
.........the
.
fabrics as one layer when sewing
the edges. ........
........
.......
........
........
........
......
....
.... . . ...
.
.....
. . . ... .
....
. .. . . . . . . ... .......
.. .
...........
............ . . . . .... ........
............ . .. ..
... ........ .......................................
.......
* pattern enclosed
.................
Halter Wrap . . . . . . . . . . . .....................................................
.
.... ... .......... .
......................................................... ......
S imply shaped, this easy-to-wear dress is perfect for the beach or pool
party. The dress crosses at the front and wraps around to tie behind the
neck. Elastic gathers the back to add shape and help define your waist.
Fabric folds at the front evoke images of ancient Greek clothing and Indian
saris, which traditionally emphasized simple shapes to celebrate the beauty
of the fabric.
Suitable Fabrics: Choose fabric to fit the occasion for which you’ll wear
the wrap. Lightweight printed fabrics, such as cotton lawn or soft shirting
weights, work well for summer. Sari fabrics are often made from silk or
cotton blends that drape nicely into folds, and the color selection is beautiful
and endless. A beach cover-up can be made from a very lightweight fabric,
such as voile or cotton batiste. Or make the wrap in lightweight terry cloth,
which could double as a towel after a dip in the pool!
summer flair 123
· 2 yards (1.8 m) of lightweight 60"(1.5 m) -wide fabric
· 3⁄4 yard (0.7 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide elastic · Make a shorter wrap by removing 6" (15 cm) from the
· sewing thread pattern length.
· pattern (enclosed) · Wear the dress as a sarong when you go to the beach!
Just follow the instructions but eliminate the elastic,
tools
and tie the straps at one side of your hips.
· sewing machine
· scissors
· dressmaker pins
· ruler
· tailor’s chalk or pencil
..
. .. . . . . . . ...
. ................................................................................................
.
............................. .....
..
.................
.................
Instructions 4 Pin the ends of the 14 1⁄2” (37 cm) elastic to the notches
on the upper-back edge. Stretch the elastic between the
1 Cutting instructions: Fold the fabric on the crossgrain

with right sides facing and aligning the selvages. Place the
notches as you stitch, keeping the elastic close to the edge.
Double-fold and pin the upper strap edges 1⁄4” (6 mm)
toward the fabric wrong side. Continue folding and pin-
pattern center back on the fabric fold. Pin around the pattern
ning the upper back edge, encasing the center-back elastic.
edges and cut out. Snip the notch locations and mark the
Edgestitch the upper edge in place by stretching the fabric
waist-elastic position before removing the pattern.
flat as you stitch (a).
2 Double-fold the front edges 1⁄4” (6 mm) to the wrong

side and edgestitch. To hem the wrap, double-fold the lower elastic gathering
edge under 3⁄8” (1 cm); press and edgestitch. (a) Stitch elastic to
the waist and upper-
3 Turn under both ends of the 12” (30.5 cm) elastic 3⁄8”
(1 cm) and secure the ends with a few stitches. On the fabric
back positions.
wrong side, pin one end of the elastic to one end of the
marked waist-elastic position. Sew a few stitches forward
and back to secure the elastic end. Stitch forward approxi-
mately 1⁄2” (1.3 cm), then hold the fabric and elastic behind
the presser foot while stretching the elastic along the marked
guideline to the opposite end. Stitch through the elastic
stopping at the end, reverse a few stitches, then pivot the
5 To wear the dress, wrap both sides across your front,
and then tie the straps behind your neck (b).
fabric at a right angle, and stitch across the elastic width.
summer flair 125
Style Ideas 1
1. Buttercream striped
open-weave linen
2. Crimson print cotton
georgette
3. Retro polka-dot striped
cotton
................................. 3
........... ..........
.................... .
...................... . . . . . . .......
............... .. .. .
.................. . . . . . . . . . . . . ........................
........................................................... . ..
.......................................................
(b) Wrap the dress around you, and tie the straps.
.................
Basket Bag . . . . . .
.. ...
............................................ ....
. . . . . . . .. .
. .
. .
. .
. . . . . . . .
.........................................................
I nspired by origami paper-folding techniques, this bag celebrates simple

and uncluttered lines. The bag begins as a large triangle, which folds into a
square, and is then transformed into a pentagon-shaped basket. With a few
pinches and several short seams, this bag will stand by itself. The shape
and construction details are fantastically simple, resulting in a unique and
practical shoulder bag for the beach or strolling around the market on a
weekend morning.
Suitable Fabrics: Choose a medium- to heavyweight soft fabric for a casual

slouchy beach bag, such as printed broadcloth, or a stiff fabric, such as can-
vas or twill, for an elegant structured clutch.
summer flair 127
· ⁄4 yard (0.7 m) of mediumweight 45" (1.2 m) -wide fabric
3
· This bag can be made to any scale. Just change the
· 1 yard (1 m) of 1 1⁄4" (3 cm) -wide grosgrain ribbon triangle measurements along the right-angle edges. The
· 1 yard (1 m) of 1⁄4" (6 mm) -wide prefolded bias measurements provided make a medium-size bag. For a
binding (optional) small handbag, try 10” (25.5 cm); for an oversized beach
· sewing thread bag, make the edges 23 1⁄2” (59.5 cm).
tools · To create a clutch, make the 10” (25.5 cm) version,

· sewing machine and eliminate the strap. Fold down both top corners
· scissors together almost to the bag lower edge; press. Close with
· yardstick a buckle and strap, button and loop, or hook and bar.
· ruler
· measuring tape · Attach a couple of buttons or rivets to the shoulder
strap where it is stitched to the purse, to strengthen the
· fabric pencil
join and add a dash of style.
· dressmaker pins
. . . . . . . .
. .
. .
. ..................
.....................
Instructions ........................
................................................................................. .......................
1 Cutting instructions: Fold the fabric in half with the right

sides facing and matching the selvages; pin the selvages
2 Stitch the 16 1⁄2” (42 cm) cut edge with a 1⁄2” (1.3 cm)
seam (a).
together. Use a fabric pencil to mark a triangle on the fabric.
Mark the triangle upper point on the fold. Mark another point
16 1⁄2” (42 cm) from the upper point along the folded edge.
Mark a point 16 1⁄2” (42 cm) from the lower point and at a
3 Refold the fabric so the stitched seam is centered, creat-
ing a square shape. Press the seam open, and trim the seam
right angle to the fold. Use a ruler and fabric pencil to connect allowance ends so they align with the fabric edges. Finish the
the points. Cut out the triangle, leaving the fabric fold intact. seam raw edges with serging, zigzag stitching, or binding.
4 Mark points 3 1⁄2” (9 cm) on either side of the lower

corner along the fabric folds. Stitch straight across from point
to point (b). Fold and press the stitched corner toward the bag.
16 1⁄2” (42 cm)
fold line
(a) Stitch the 5 Maneuver the fabric, and pinch the bottom corners
inward to create small triangles. Mark points approximately
shorter cut
edge.
5
⁄8” (1.5 cm) on either side of each small triangle point, and
then stitch straight across between the points (c).
16 1⁄2” (42 cm)
summer flair 129
Style Ideas
1
1. Lemon cotton/polyester twill
2. Multicolor striped cotton twill
................................
. . .. . . . . . . . .......................................................................................................................................
.. .....................
. . . . . . . . . . . . .......... ..... ........ .......
. . . . . . . .
. .
. .
. .
. ....... ......
. ............ .
. . .
(b) Mark and stitch across
the lower corner.
strap from fabric, cut a 3 1⁄4” x 35” (8.5 x 89 cm) strip on the
straight of grain. Turn under the ends 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) toward the
wrong side and press flat. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with
the wrong sides facing and press flat. Fold in the long edges 3⁄8”
(1 cm) and press; edgestitch both lengthwise edges.
(c) Stitch across the

8 Pin the strap ends below the bag upper corners, and box-
stitch the strap to the bag following the triangle-shaped point.
small triangle points.
9 Bring the opening edges together and

6 Turn the bag right side out. To hem, double-turn
the edges 1⁄4” (6 mm) toward the fabric wrong side and
box-stitch the lower corners 3” (7.5 cm) along
the fabric edges, pivoting at the corners (d).
edgestitch.
7 Make a 35” (89 cm) -long shoulder strap from

either fabric scraps or a 1 1⁄4” (3 cm) -wide ribbon, such
(c) Stitch the opening
lower edges together.
as grosgrain. If you use ribbon, cut a of 35” (89 cm) length,
turn both ends under 1⁄2” (1.3 cm), and press flat. To make the
130
chapter 5
personalizing your pieces
Get t ing C r e a t ive

wit h E m bel li sh m e nt
Feather tape trim
A stylish or unusual trim is the quickest way to add a

touch of elegance or kitschy charm to your creations.
Trim is usually the last thing you look for when begin-
ning a project, but it’s something to keep in mind when
choosing the fabric. If you intend to complete your
Fringe
design with trim, consider the fabric texture, pattern, Gathered trim
and color. For example, if you want to splash on bold-
colored sequins, a solid-colored fabric with a smooth
surface will show them off better. Depending on your
personal style, keep the trim simple and chic, or go all
out and add outrageous embellishments.
Tape-edge trims have decorative elements attached to

a header, which is easily stitched to a hem edge or any-
where on your garment or accessory. Shop with a fabric
swatch from your latest project to select a trim that Assorted ribbon trim
suits it perfectly. If there are no inspiring trims in your
local shops, there are many wonderfully stocked online
stores. From pom-poms to pleats, feathers to fringes, You’ll find beads available in glass, crystal, plastic, porce-
the options for eye-catching edgings are endless. lain, and metal. Keep in mind that beads will add weight
to your garment, so if you’re using a lightweight fabric,
Consider embellishing a nonstretch garment with
consider using lighter, smaller beads. For a special-
beads. Beads range in size from tiny seed beads to
occasion dress, stitch a sprinkle of antique-glass beads
larger, chunkier versions in a variety of shapes.
131
to the neckline and bust area. For a heavier garment, Alternatively, couch the thread between each bead to
such as a herringbone wool poncho, consider larger the fabric. (See page 132 for couching instructions.)
vintage-glass beads or bright-colored wooden beads
around the edges.
Beads are generally sold by the strand or by weight in

containers. Smaller seed or pearl beads require a fine Attaching beads
size 12 beading needle to pass through the hole. Look
for thread made especially for sewing beads (I prefer
Nymo thread). Prevent the thread from tangling or
fraying by lightly passing it through candle or beeswax
before stitching. If you are stitching a large area with Beads don’t have to be right next to each other, but
small beads, use an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric avoid positioning them farther than 1” (2.5 cm) apart
taut and reduce puckers. to avoid lengthy thread strands on the garment wrong
side. If you decide to space beads apart, secure each
bead by making a few invisible stitches on the fabric
wrong side, and cut the thread before beginning the
process at the next position.
Using Fabric Stabilizers
Fabric stabilizers can be added to the wrong side
of the fabric to provide additional support when Sequins, Paillettes, and Appliqués
elaborate or heavy embellishments are planned.
Other glittery-trim options include sequins, paillettes,
and appliqués. Sequins and paillettes are simple to
stitch and are a great way to quickly glamorize your
clothing and accessories. Sequins come in all shapes
To stitch beads to fabric, thread a needle, secure the
and sizes—the most common being round and smooth
thread on the fabric wrong side (take care so the stitch
or textured to reflect the light.
isn’t visible on the right side), and then pass the needle
through to the right side. To sew a single bead, insert Sew the sequins on one at a time using a small needle.
the needle through the bead, and then take a stitch Secure the thread on the fabric wrong side, insert the
close to the first stitch, through to the wrong side; the needle through to the right side, stitch through the
bead should lie against the fabric. Pull the thread taut sequin hole, and then back to the fabric wrong side at
but not too tight, or the fabric will pucker. Check the the sequin edge. The result is a sequin that dangles
bead placement, and then bring the needle up near slightly. Sequins sewn this way are more delicate. For a
the next bead location, and repeat the process. To sew more secure attachment, stitch through the hole three
multiple beads at once, slip two to five beads onto the times, forming a Y-shape (see illustration, next page).
thread, and then take a stitch next to the last bead so The sequin will not move and stays flat against the
the beads lay flat, but do not slide around. Carefully fabric. Secure the thread ends on the fabric wrong side
stitch through each bead to secure it to the fabric. after stitching each group of sequins.
embroidery stitches on any area of your garment or

accessory: hems, necklines, pockets—anywhere that
Attaching sequins
craves a bit of flair.
Layer sequins in rows, clustered together, or randomly Basic Materials

spaced. Try layering different colors together. If a more You will need an embroidery needle and floss (thread)
subtle look is preferred, use transparent paillettes, for any embroidery project. A wood or plastic em-
which reflect the fabric color and light. broidery hoop is helpful; it stretches the embroidery
Always hand wash and air dry sequined garments or area taut to prevent puckers between the stitches.
accessories.
r
ri All materials are available at most craft stores.
Select floss colors that coordinate with your fabric.

Choose complementary colors if the design should
Tip stand out, or monochromatic shades if the design
Sequins are delicate and can be damaged by should recede or blend. If possible, keep a full spec-
alcohol and other chemicals found in perfumes. trum of flosses on hand to accommodate most
To prevent sequin dye running onto your garment, embroidery projects.
spray on your perfume before getting dressed. Following are a few simple decorative hand-stitches
with which to start. The directions are for right-handed
sewers. Reverse the stitching if you are left-handed.
Appliqués are usually made using a decorative base

material, which is embellished with embroidery, trims, Couching Stitch
or contrasting fabric shapes. Appliqués resemble a A couching stitch is used to anchor a decorative thread
patch, which can be stitched or ironed onto fabric. to the fabric surface. Place a length of heavy thread or
If you want to add sparkle, but don’t have the time (or yarn on the fabric. Thread a needle with contrasting or
patience) to hand sew, try iron-on and glue-on trims. matching floss, and make small evenly spaced stitches
These include embroidered and sequin patches, crystal over the heavy thread, securing it to the fabric. Arrange
beads, or crystal rhinestones, such as Swarovski. the heavy thread into a design as you stitch, keeping
the thread taut to prevent puckering.
Embellishing with Embroidery

Hand-stitched embellishments add an elegant finishing
touch to any garment. Embroidery is simple, stylish,
and a quick way to add color and texture. Use basic
personalizing your pieces 133
Running Stitch Reinsert the needle to make a small stitch over the loop
end (C). Bring the needle back to the right side near
This simple stitch is very useful for quickly drawing any
(A) to form a circle of lazy-daisy stitches.
shape or design with thread. Bring the needle up from
the fabric wrong side (A). Then insert the needle at (B)
and out at (C) several times before drawing the thread
A
through. Repeat this process, keeping the stitches and A B
C
spaces small and even.
Chain Stitch
This stitch is used to create a border or to fill an area.
C B A
Make a lazy daisy stitch, but instead of taking the small
stitch over the loop end, insert the needle inside the
Backstitch loop next to where the thread last emerged (A), and
then back out at (B) to form the next same-size loop.
This is a strong stitch used to outline a design area. Repeat the process, keeping the stitches even.
Bring the needle up from the fabric wrong side (A), and
then insert it 1⁄8” (3 mm) behind the point where the
thread exited the fabric (B). Then come up 1⁄8” (3 mm)
in front of the original stitch (C); repeat. B A
C A
B
Tip
Add sparkle by incorporating beads or sequins
into your embroidery design. Embroider the de-
sign, and then stitch beads or sequins over the
Lazy-Daisy Stitch
embroidery. Alternatively, thread one or more
This stitch can be sewn individually or in groups. Bring beads or sequins onto the needle before taking
the needle up from the fabric wrong side (A). Hold the an embroidery stitch.
thread to form a loop, insert the needle next to where
the thread emerged from the fabric (A), and then bring
it up a short distance away and through the loop (B).
Seam ripper: Use this precise, sharp tool to remove
Basic Sewing Tool s unwanted stitches without ripping the fabric.
Serger: A serger stitches, trims, and overcasts the

seam all in one step, and is especially useful when
A minimal investment in tools or accessories is needed sewing knits.
to start sewing. With a handful of basic items, you will
Sewing machine: There are sewing machines for every
be able to create almost anything.
budget, with user-friendly features that make sewing
Chalk wedge or pencil: With these tools, it’s simple practically goof-proof. Most sewing machines include
to accurately copy design lines and construction a variety of basic stitches, such as straight, zigzag,
markings. Chalk rubs off easily so mark the fabric reverse, and buttonhole.
just before sewing.
Sewing shears: Shears are usually 7” to 8” (18 to 20.5
Dressmaker straight pins: Select pins 1 ⁄16” (2.2 cm)
1 cm) long. They have bent handles and a smaller hole
long, for easier pinning. Some pins are available with for the thumb. The lower blade rests on the work sur-
large colored glass heads that are easy to see and face so the fabric stays flat for more accurate cutting.
grasp.
Sewing thread: High-quality thread is a very important
Embroidery needles: A medium-length needle with a sewing tool! It should be smooth and strong, with uni-
larger eye accommodates decorative thread or yarn. form thickness. As a general rule, select thread with the
same fiber content as the fabric. Use the same thread
Flexible tape measure: Tapes are usually 60”
in the machine needle and the bobbin.
(152.5 cm) long, soft (but not stretchy), and are
used to measure around the body or curved seams. Yardstick: These are helpful when laying out fabric and
patterns, locating the grainline, and marking hems.
Hand-sewing needles: Select all-purpose, medium-
length needles with sharp points.
Iron and ironing board: An iron that steams, mists,

sprays, and surges at any temperature setting is es-
sential. The ironing board should be sturdy.
Simple Sewing
Pinking shears: Pinking shears have zigzag-shaped
blades that cut a pinked edge. Pinking is one way to
finish seam allowances to keep them from raveling.
Techniques
When a garment is handcrafted, most seamstresses
Safety pin: The pin’s sharp point locks into the covered want to avoid a homemade look. Uneven hems, curved
end, and is helpful when threading ribbon or elastic seams that pucker or pull, rips at pocket openings, and
through a casing. threads hanging loose are telltale indicators of rushed
sewing and incomplete finishing. All can be prevented
by taking care at each stage of construction. Here are
some important tips to follow.
Drawing a Circle
Mark a center point on the fabric or pattern paper.
Tie a knot at one end of a string, and then pin the knot
to the center point. Tie the other string end to a pencil,
leaving enough string to equal the circle radius. The
radius is the measurement from the center point to
the circle edge. Keep the string slightly taut as you Pressing
draw the circle. Pressing at every step of the sewing process is the key
to professional-looking projects. Pressing and ironing
are different techniques. To press, lift the iron and place
Marking the Fabric firmly on the fabric (instead of gliding it over the fabric
Transfer pattern markings such as darts, gathering when you iron). Take the time to press each seam after
lines, pleats, and other placement lines to the fabric it is stitched. Use a muslin press cloth to protect the
after cutting and before removing the paper. Test any fabric, especially when working with delicate fabric.
marking tool on a scrap piece of your fabric. Be sure the
marks remain on the fabric as long as you need to refer
to them. Sewing Darts
To mark with pin and chalk or fabric pencils, place pins A dart adds dimension and shape, allowing the fabric
through the pattern and fabric layers at the pattern to mold to the body.
symbols. Carefully fold back the pattern without pulling 1. Mark the dart with tailor’s chalk or pencil using the
the pin from the fabric, and mark the pin location on pattern as a guide. With fabric right sides facing, fold
the fabric. Turn the pattern and fabric over and mark the dart down the center, and match the stitching lines;
the same location on the opposite side. pin (a, next page).
2. Begin stitching at the wide end, backstitching at the

Basting start. Continue stitching toward the point, removing
pins as you sew.
Basting is a temporary stitch that holds fabric layers
or fabric and trim together. Baste with a contrasting 3. Taper the stitching so the last two or three stitches
colored thread so the stitches are more visible. Hand are directly on the fold. Do not backstitch, and leave
basting is made with long running stitches and is long thread tails (b, next page).
especially helpful when working with slippery fabrics
4. Press the dart flat up to the point. Then press the
and matching plaids. Machine-baste with the longest
dart to one side. Do not press over the point.
straight stitch. Machine basting is used to gather fabric.
Remove the basting when the project is complete.
improve the way your garment will look when it is

worn. The garment will also withstand machine wash-
ing and last longer. As a general rule, finish the seam
allowances in a manner that doesn’t add extra bulk to
the seam.
Zigzag Finish
Press the seam open. Set the machine for a wide,
(a) Pin dart. (b) Stitch dart line, taper at medium-length zigzag. Stitch along each seam allow-
the end, and leave long tails. ance edge to prevent raveling. For lightweight fabrics,
zigzag the seam allowances together and press to
Curved Seams one side.
Curved seams must be notched or clipped to

allow them to lay flat when the garment is turned to
the outside. Cut notches or wedges from the seam
allowance of outward curves to remove extra fullness
(a). Cut short clips up to, but not through, the stitching
of inward curves so the fabric can spread and lie
flat (b).
Prefolded bias binding
To determine how much binding will be needed,
(a) Cut notches into outward- measure the entire edge to be bound. Cut a length of
curved seams. binding 1” (2.5 cm) longer than that measurement.
Open the tape and with right sides together, pin it to

the fabric matching the cut edges. Stitch along the
foldline closest to the raw edge. Fold the binding up
and over to encase the raw edge. Edgestitch the bind-
ing inner fold from the fabric right side, catching the
(b) Clip inward-curved seams.
slightly wider underneath layer at the same time.
Finishing Seams
When time is limited, you might be tempted to leave
what is unseen unfinished. Neatly finished seam edges
Binding Inside Corners

B
Bi
Tip Staystitch the corner using the same seam allowance
as when attaching the narrow side of the prefolded
When stitching bias binding to a neck seam, binding (a scant 1⁄4” [5.5 mm] seam). Clip the corner
stretch the binding slightly around the shoulder up to, but not through, the stitching. Open up the fabric
area. This helps the binding lay flat around at the fold, and align the binding edges with the fabric
the curve. straight edges; pin. Stitch in the ditch of the binding
fold making sure the stitching overlaps the corner stay-
stitching (fig). Turn the binding to the opposite side of
the fabric, encasing the raw edges and stitch in place.
Place the fabric flat on your work surface, and neatly
Pivoting Corners with Binding arrange the small tuck that forms in the binding at the
corner; tack in place.
Binding Outside Corners
Clipping the fabric is unnecessary when sewing very
When adding binding around corners, precise sewing obtuse inside corners—stop stitching with the needle
will yield a cleaner finish. Attach the binding to the in the fabric at the corner, lift the pressure foot, rear-
fabric in the same manner as when finishing seam range the binding so it aligns with the next edge, lower
allowances. Stitch slowly as you approach the corner the presser foot, and continue the seam.
and stop at a point equal to the seam allowance width
from the next fabric edge. Remove the fabric from the fabric spreads apart
at the clipped corner
machine, and clip the threads. Fold up the binding, cre-
ating a fold that bisects the corner (a 45 degree-angle
fold is created on square corners) and with the binding binding
edge in line with the next fabric edge. Then fold the
binding back down, creating another fold and aligning fabric
the raw edges. Begin sewing at the same point where
Binding an inside corner
the previous stitching line ended (fig).
second fold
binding
Finishing Overlapping Binding
Binding an outside corner
On a continuous edge (such as a neckline or hem),
first finish the binding by overlapping the binding ends at
fold
fabric an inconspicuous place of the garment or accessory.
Unfold the binding and press one of the raw ends 1⁄2”
(1.3 cm) toward the binding wrong side.
Pin this end to the fabric edge with the right sides Instructions below are for a centered zipper, which are
of the fabric and binding facing. Pin the binding all typically sewn in the center front or back of a garment.
around the edge, lapping the raw end over the pressed
1. Machine-baste the seam of the zipper opening. Clip
end. Stitch the binding in place, continuing past the
the basting stitches every 2” (5 cm) so they are easily
joined ends. The binding should overlap approximately
removed later. Press the seam open, and finish the
1
⁄2” (1.3 cm).
seam allowance edges.
2. Place the zipper facedown over the basted seam on

the garment wrong side. Position the upper zipper stop
1” (2.5 cm) below the cut edge. Center the teeth on the
seam, and flip up the pull tab. Use a glue stick or bast-
ing tape to hold the zipper in place.
French Seam
Use this finish when the seam is visible through
lightweight or sheer fabrics, or for heavier fabric when
the seam will be visible when the project is complete.
With the fabric wrong sides facing, stitch a 1⁄4” (6 mm)
seam. Trim the allowances to 1⁄8” (3 mm) and press to
one side. Refold the fabric along the stitching line so
the right sides are facing and the seam allowance is
enclosed. Stitch 1⁄4” (6 mm) from the folded edge, and 3. Place a pin below the lower stop on the garment
then press the seam to one side. right side. Center a piece of 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) -wide clear
tape over the seam to act as a stitching guide. (Do
not use tape on napped or delicate fabrics.)
4. Adjust the zipper foot so it is to the right of the

needle. Begin stitching at the seam at the zipper lower
end. Stitch across the bottom of the zipper, pivot at the
tape edge, and stitch up the left side along the tape
edge; leave long thread tails.
Inserting Zippers
With a little patience and helpful tips, adding zippers
can be a breeze. Attach a zipper foot to your machine,
and use basting tape or a fabric glue stick to hold the
zipper in place for easier stitching. 5. Adjust the zipper foot to the left of the needle. Again,
begin stitching at the seam at the zipper lower end.
Stitch across the bottom of the zipper, pivot at the tape Topstitch close to the inner pressed edge. Add a
edge, and stitch up the opposite side of the zipper; second row of stitching 1⁄4” (6 mm) from the first
leave long thread tails. through all layers.
6. Pull the thread tails to the wrong side and tie Hand-stitched hem: Prepare the hem as for the
them in a knot. Remove the basting and press with topstitched hem. Take a tiny stitch in and out of the
a press cloth. garment, and then bring the needle through the hem
edge forming a slanted stitch. Continue in this manner,
spacing the stitches about 1⁄2” (1.3 cm) apart.
Finishing Tec h niqu e s

Hemming Methods
Garments and accessories can be hemmed by hand
or machine.
Attaching Trims
Double-turned hem: A narrow 1⁄4” (6 mm) double-
Trim application methods depend on the trim style
turned hem is great for sheer and silky fabrics. Use a
and the way it is used. (For more on selecting trims,
wider hem on heavier fabrics. Press under the desired
see page 130.)
hem width, and then turn and press the same amount
again. Machine-stitch close to the inner fold. Machine-stitched band trim: Secure the trim in
place with basting tape or fabric adhesive. If the trim
is less than 1⁄4” (6 mm) wide, machine-stitch down the
center. If the trim is wider than 1⁄4” (6 mm), machine-
stitch both long edges in the same direction.
Topstitched hem: Fold up the hem the desired

amount and press. Turn the fabric raw edge 1⁄4” (6 mm)
to the wrong side; press.
Hand-stitched trim: Raised trim must be attached

by hand. Slipstitch the trim to the fabric with thread
that is the same color as the fabric.
(a) Fold both lengthwise raw edges
toward the center crease and press.
(b) Fold in half, creating

a point at the fold.
Trim a finished edge: Place the folded or hemmed

fabric edge over the edging and topstitch the fabric to
Sew-Through Buttons
the trim. Or sew the trim on the fabric right side along Thread a needle and knot the ends together. Bring the
the edge or to cover a seam. needle from the fabric wrong side and through one
hole, then back down through the opposite hole and
the fabric. Repeat several times. If there are four holes,
stitch through the other two holes the same way. Knot
the thread on the fabric wrong side.
Hooks and Eyes

Sew the hook to the wrong side of the overlap, without
Loop-and-Button Closure stitching through to the right side. Stitch several times
Make loops from fabric tubes (see Making Spaghetti over each hole. Close the garment, and mark where the
Straps using a Loop Turner on page 63) or from nar- hook ends on the right side of under layer. Sew the eye
row fabric strips. Cut a 1” (2.5 cm) -wide fabric strip, at the mark.
twice the finished loop length. Fold and press the ends
under 1⁄4” (6 mm), and then fold and press the strip in
half lengthwise with the wrong sides facing. Fold both
lengthwise raw edges toward the center crease and
press (a). Edgestitch the lengthwise edges. Fold the
strip in half, creating a point at the fold (b). With the
ends aligned with the fabric edge, pin the loop to the
project. Stitch across the loop ends 1⁄8” (3 mm) from
the edge. Turn the loop away from the edge and stitch Add a Patch Pocket
again to hold it in place. Stitch a button beneath the
Cut a 7 1⁄2” x 5 1⁄4” (19 x 13.5 cm) rectangle. Turn under
loop to complete the closure.
the pocket sides and lower edge 3⁄8” (1 cm).
Stitch a 1” (2.5 cm) double-turned hem along the Bagging a Garment

pocket upper edge. Try on the garment, and pin the
Bagging is a quick-and-easy method of lining simple
pocket in the desired location. Stitch around the pocket
shapes and garments. Cut the pattern from the fashion
side and lower edges.
fabric, and then again from a lighter-weight fabric.
Place both pieces together with the right sides facing
Add a Half-Circle Pocket and align the edges. Stitch the edges using the sug-
gested seam allowance, leaving a 5” (12.5 cm) opening
With a pencil, lightly draw a 4 1⁄2” (11.5 cm) -diameter along a straight edge or at the garment lower edge (a).
half circle directly onto the fabric wrong side. Add Turn the garment to the right side through the opening.
3
⁄4” (2 cm) beyond the straight edge to allow for a hem. Press the edges flat, and stitch the opening closed (b).
Press and stitch a 3⁄8” (1 cm) double-turned hem along
the straight edge. Stitch 1⁄4” (6 mm) prefolded bias
binding around the pocket curved edge, folding the
ends under 1⁄4” (6 mm) for a clean finish. Place
the pocket where desired on the garment. (For the
Gathered Apron, center the pocket on the chest
approximately 2 1⁄2” [6.5 cm] below the upper edge;
pin.) Edgestitch around the curved edge, reverse- (a) Stitch around the edges, leaving an opening for turning.
stitching at the seam ends.
Tip
To create a pocket pattern, trace around an old
CD, divide the circle in half, and then add the hem
(b) Slipstitch the opening closed.
allowance.
Finishing Ribbon and Belt Ends

Finish ribbon or belt ends securely by box stitching.
Press the raw ends under 3⁄8” (1 cm), and again by
the width of the ribbon or belt. Stitch around all edges
and stitch two diagonal lines through the center, creat-
ing an X.
Resources Mood Fabrics

www.moodfabrics.com
225 W 37th St, 3rd Floor
New York, NY 10018 USA
Warm Biscuit
www.warmbiscuit.com
Warm Biscuit is a child-oriented site with

a wonderful selection of modern and
T: 212.730.5003
Fabrics retro-print fabrics for all ages.
One of the most stylish collections of
Amy Butler Design
fabrics available online. When in New
www.amybutlerdesign.com Westminster Fabrics/Freespirit
York City, a trip to their treasure chest of
www.westminsterfabrics.com
Amy Butler’s beautiful printed fabrics are chic fabrics is a must.
not available directly on her website, but A wholesale supplier of many wonderful
her website provides links to online stores fabric designers, including Amy Butler,
Revival Fabrics
carrying her fabrics, as well as a conve- Barefoot Roses, Chocolate Lollipop, Mod
www.revivalfabrics.com
nient retail store locator. Girls, Sis Bloom, and West Hill. Find an
Revival Fabrics is a terrific source of online store or retail shop stocking their
authentic, mint condition, vintage fabrics. fabrics by using their store locator.
B&J Fabrics
This is the place to shop when looking
www.bandjfabrics.com
for beautiful and unique textiles from the
525 7th Ave., 2nd floor
1920s through the 1970s. Notions and Trims
T: 212.354.8150
The Beadin’ Path
Sew Mama Sew
Located in the heart of the garment www.beadinpath.com
www.sewmamasew.com
district in New York City, this mainstay
fashion fabric store has been providing The Beadin’ Path has an excellent
Sew Mama Sew has a fabulous selection
high-end European fabrics for more than of retro-print fabrics, notions, and a link to selection of all sorts of beads. You’ll find
sixty years. their fun blog. everything from vintage seed beads and
sequins to natural freshwater pearls
Fabric.com and crystals.
www.fabric.com Purl Soho/Purl Patchwork
www.purlsoho.com
M&J Trimming
This online fabric site stocks a wide 147 Sullivan St.
variety of well-priced fabrics, both 1008 Sixth Ave.
modern and retro. T: 212.420.8798 New York, NY 10018 USA
T: 800.9.MJTRIM
Purl Soho is a delightful sewing and www.mjtrim.com
Hancock Fabrics knitting shop in New York City, and their
www.hancockfabrics.com online shop stocks an impressive number Fantastic source of trims from all over the
of print designers. Most fabrics are world. Visit the store in New York City,
Online source for fabrics and trims
mediumweight, which works well for or browse their excellent online store for
dresses, skirts, jackets, and accessories. beaded trim, buttons, lace, ribbons, and
Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores much more.
www.joann.com
Reprodepot
A well-known chain store that stocks a www.reprodepot.com
good selection of apparel fabrics, notions,
Reprodepot is a favorite online store for
and a variety of sewing supplies. Use the
vintage reproduction and retro-print
store locator on their website to find one
fabrics. They also have a great selection of
near you, or shop through their extensive
notions and other sewing-related items.
online store.
143
About the Author

As a young girl in New York City, Sheila Brennan cultivated an interest
in fashion while taking Saturday classes at the Fashion Institute of
Technology. She studied fashion design at the University of Ulster in
Northern Ireland and pursued several internships in the London fashion
world, at houses that include Boudicca, Ben di Lisi, and Sue Rowe. Since
then, she has worked in Paris fashion houses and for Polo-Ralph Lauren
and DKNY.
Sheila has amassed a vast understanding of design, patternmaking, and

construction techniques. Her curiosity, insight, and ability to look beyond
the traditional methods of clothing construction led her to develop her
unique style. She is inspired by designers such as Issey Miyake, Madeleine
Vionnet, and Comme des Garçons, who are well known for their innovative
approach to garment construction and design.
Sheila currently resides in New York City, where she finds constant
inspiration for her work. She plans to launch her own line of garments
and accessories in the near future. Visit her at www.sheilabrennan.com.
Acknowledgments
This book is dedicated to my mother, Teresa Higgins Brennan, who
always encouraged me to try new things and to follow my dreams.
I’d like to thank everyone who supported me throughout this creative

project, especially my father John Brennan, my dear sister Anne-Marie,
and my brother Sean, for all of your encouragement. Thank you to Corvin,
for everything. To Declan, for being such an inspiration to me. Joan and
Wilfred, thank you both for always listening and being such wonderful
people. To Melanie, for always being there. Thank you also to Alisa,
Andrea, Cat, Erica, Fabien, Jason, Stephanie, Padraig, Maresa, Jonathan,
Suzi, Jordan, and Leone.
A big thank you to everyone at Quarry Books, especially Rochelle

Bourgault, for being a wonderful and supportive person to work with
throughout the publishing and editing process. Thank you also to Marla
Stefanelli for your excellent technical editing, and to Betsy Gammons for
your creative eye. Thank you to David Martinell, Rosalind Wanke, and
everyone in the art department for their fantastic work.
.............................................
.....................
......................
...............
Simple, elegant fashions from single-pattern pieces? What more could savvy
fabric lovers want? The modern and stylish pieces in One-Piece Wearables are
made from single-pattern pieces, which are then snipped, trimmed, twisted,
folded, and stitched! With a few yards of fabric and a free afternoon, you can whip
up one-of-a-kind fashions, showing off your endless supply of hand-crafted style.
Designer Sheila Brennan has created 25 garments and accessories that are a cinch
for new sewers—and novel and exciting for stitching veterans. With clear instructions
and step-by-step illustrations, she guides you through the sewing process, helps
with fabric and notion selection, and offers design variations, expert tips, and
tricks along the way.
* Create one-of-a-kind fashions with clever sewing, cutting, and assembly

* Learn to draft and modify simple pattern pieces with confidence
* 15 full-size patterns included!
Also Available:
Jean Therapy Sweater Surgery Altered Clothing
....
ISBN: 978-1-59253-388-6 ISBN: 978-1-59253-420-3 ISBN: 978-1-59253-246-9
....... . . . . . ... .
........ . . . . . . . ......
........... . ..
. ................................................ ISBN-13: 978-1-59253-344-2
Crafts/Sewing ISBN-10: 1-59253-344-2
$19.99 US
£16.99 UK
$21.95 CAN
www.quarrybooks.com

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Printed in China Fun-in-the-Sun Dress, pg 112

Contents 68 ............... Flared Circle Tops

My appetite for luxury fabrics was soon whetted. My Inspiration

The projects in this book were inspired on some level

mood board | A mood evokes feeling or inspiration.

theme board | A theme could be a story line or

A mood board or theme board is a pastiche of design ideas.

Silhouette Fashion Icons: Trend Inspiration

French couturier Paul Poiret, whose innovative designs

A modern fashion innovator is Japanese-born Issey

refers to the thread directions. The lengthwise grain, or

(a) Fabric grain diagram

Selecting Your Fabric Fiber Content

Appearance and Drape

Always review the fabric’s care instructions when Vintage Fabric

Fabric 101: An Introduction to the Fabrics in This Book

Very lightweight fabric, with a fabric weight of 3 oz

Lightweight fabric, with a fabric weight of 4.5 oz

suitable fabrics: Choose a lightweight fabric that gathers easily. Cotton

· Optional: ⁄ yard (0.5 m) of ⁄ " (1 cm) -wide

designated pattern edge on the fabric fold. Cut out

2 Open the ties along the cut portion to the

smooth the excess fabric off to the side, lower the

4 Insert your arms through the opening, keeping

Pouch-Pocket Top . . . . . . ..................................................

This stylish top is both flattering and practical, featuring pleated

Suitable Fabrics: Lightweight cotton or blended fabrics; oxford, poplin,

1 Cutting instructions: With the fabric folded in half length-

center back bust pleats

Cutting Pouch-Pocket Top

POUCH-POCKET TOP PATTERN

3 Encase the pocket upper raw edges in bias bind-

4 With the shirtfronts faceup, fold up the pocket

the marked positions at the side seam and center-front

5 Cut two 5 3⁄8” (13.5 cm) pieces of 1⁄4” (6 mm) -wide

(f) Baste belts to

10 With right sides facing, pin the front and back

11 Finish the seams by serging, zigzag stitching, or encas-

backstitch a couple of times across the seam ends to keep

Window-Shopping Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .........................................

You’ll get a lot of mileage from this fun, easy-to-make,

Suitable Fabrics: Lightweight cottons, or any fabric with soft folds;

1 Cutting instructions: Because this pattern is approxi-

armhole along the natural side-seam line.

2 For the belt loops, use either 3⁄8” (1 cm) -wide

scraps. To make belt loops, cut two 1 1⁄2” x 2 1⁄4” (4 x 5.5

(a) Fold under the lengthwise edges,

3 On the fabric right side, fold the shoulder pleats toward

(b) Fold, press, and baste

(d) Stitch shoulder seams,

and stitch center-

(e) Hem lower edge.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ................................... Variations .........

· For a lower front neckline, mark 2 ⁄ " (7 cm) below the 3

center-front neck on the pattern. Curve the new front

· This dress falls to just above the knee, depending

· Eliminate the belt and add a patch pocket. Cut a

· Pin a flower corsage to the dress front.

Cape with Inverted

Suitable Fabrics: Medium- to heavyweight fabrics with a lot of drape will

Cape with Inverted Back Pleat ............

1 Cutting instructions: This cape requires a large circle.