Electrical Construction Operator: Learner Guide

ELECTRICAL CONSTRUCTION
OPERATOR
(ECO)
Learner Guide
TABLE OF CONTENTS
MODULE ECO-1
ABOUT MODULE ECO-1 PAGE 1
LEARNING PROCEDURE PAGE 2
ECO-1 OBJECTIVES PAGE 3
RESOURCE NOTES PART 1 PAGE 4
SELF-TEST EXERCISE NO. 1 PAGE 11
MODULE ECO-2
SELF-TEST EXERCISE NO.1 PAGE 38
MODULE ECO-3
CONTACT DETAILS:
https://techav.co.za
info@techav.co.za
MODULE ECO-1
OBJECTIVES
o This module has been designed to introduce you to PVC conduit and its accessories
and in particular the cutting, bending and shaping of PVC conduit.
WHAT WILL YOU LEARN IN THIS MODULE

Part One: Identifying PVC conduit and its accessories.
Part Two: Cutting, Bending and Shaping PVC Conduit.
HOW WELL YOU WILL PERFORM

o Through Self-Check Exercises you will be able to assess your performance at each
stage of learning based upon Must Know or Must Do principles.
o Obtaining a YES response to a criteria checklist.
Back to Table of Contents 1

LEARNING PROCEDURE
You have been supplied with 2 main resources namely:

o This workbook.
o A video programme - ECO-1 PVC CONDUIT &ACCESSORIES.
The recommended general procedure for learning is as follows:

o Read your workbook, following any simple instruction as you read.
o View the relevant video material, as given in the reading.
o Practice (where applicable) performing the tasks demonstrated by the video.
o This is done in your Practical Training area under the supervision of your Facilitator
(or Mentor / Tutor).
o Each module begins with a Learning Objective. In this way you will be clear about
where the module is taking you and what you will achieve after successfully
completing.
o Resource notes provide you with valuable information. Not all information is given
on the video. Certain facts (e.g. expansion of details mentioned in the video) are
given to you in the resource notes. Read your resource notes before viewing the
video, as you will obtain a clearer understanding, especially in theoretical aspects.

LEARNING OBJECTIVE
MODULE ONE: PVC CONDUIT (ECO-1)
OBJECTIVE
Upon successful completion of this module you will be able to:
o Identify PVC conduit and its accessories.
o Cut, shape and bend PVC conduit.
PROCEDURES
o Read the Resource Notes beginning on the next page.
o View video ECO-1 PVC CONDUIT & ACCESSORIES all the way through.
o View the video again, but this time STOP each time you see a REVIEW section.
o Complete the Self-Test Exercise that follows the relevant section in the resource
notes.
o When you have mastered that section, by honestly receiving a YES response for each
criterion, continue to the next section.
RESOURCES
For this module you will require:
o This workbook.
o Video Programme ECO-1 PVC CONDUIT &ACCESSORIES.

RESOURCE NOTES (PART 1)
IDENTIFY PVC CONDUIT AND ITS ACCESSORIES
1. PVC CONDUIT
PVC conduit is a wire-way that is used to carry electrical cables or wires. PVC
conduit is used mainly in domestic and industrial applications for the installation of
lighting, socket outlets and machine connections.
PVC has the following advantages:

o It can be bent and manipulated easily without special tools or equipment.
o It does not corrode or rust.
o It can be buried in concrete, plaster or under floor screeds.
Disadvantages of PVC:
o It cannot be used where temperatures are lower than 15° C or where the
temperature is higher than 70° C.
o It cannot be used where it is subjected to ultra-violet light or in direct
sunlight as this could cause it to crumble.
o It cannot resist mechanical damage like metal conduit can.
PVC conduit is available in the following sizes:

o 20 mm.
o 25 mm.
o 32 mm.
o 50 mm.
In general, 20 mm conduit is normally used in household installations.
2. CONDUIT BOXES
"Connection boxes" are used to make the setting out and connection of conductors
easier. The connection box consists of a round housing, a cover and "ways" to which
the conduit is attached. The cover of this box is removable, so that conductors can
be drawn into the conduit and joined easily.

Once the cables have been drawn into the conduit and joined, the cover of the
connection box is replaced and secured in place. Connection boxes are identified by
the number of conduit outlets, or "ways" that they have. For example, a connection
box that has one conduit outlet is called a "one-way" connection box. This box is
used at the end of conduit runs, so it is also often called an "end-box”.
A connection box that has two "ways" is called a two-way connection box. It is also
often called a 'through box'. These connection boxes are used in long conduit runs
where the conduit needs to be joined.
Another variation of the two-way connection box is the right-angled two-way

connection box. This connector box is used where the direction of the conduit is
changed by 90°.
"Three-way connection boxes" have three ways to which conduit can be connected.
This box is used is where the conduit branches off from the main conduit line to a
switch box or connection box.

The “Y-box” is another variation of the three way connection box.
The “four-way connection box” has four ways to which the conduit can be
connected. It is used where conduit is branched off the main run in two opposite
directions.
"Back entry boxes" have a conduit entry point at the back of the connection
box. This type of fitting is used for installing light fittings in ceilings or concrete
decks.

The "extension ring" is attached onto the connection boxes so that they can be set
deeper into the concrete. There are two types, namely a 19 mm and a 28 mm
extension ring.
3. COUPLINGS
These items are called "couplings". They are used to join two lengths of conduit
together.
4. SWITCH BOXES AND SOCKET BOXES

Switches are housed in “switch boxes” and socket outlets in "socket boxes".
These boxes are made of either PVC, or galvanised steel. They are available in 2 sizes:
o 100 mm x 50 mm, and
o 100 mm x 100 mm.

There are two types of switch and socket boxes, namely ''recessed boxes" which are
used in installations where the conduit and boxes are concealed beneath the plaster,
or “surface mounted boxes” which are used for installations where the conduit is
mounted on the wall surface.
Recessed Surface mount
5. ADAPTORS
"Adaptors" are used to attach to the conduit to the switch and socket boxes.
There are two types of adaptors, namely, "male adaptors", which have external
threads, and "female adaptors” which have internal threads. Adaptors are attached
to the conduit by means of PVC weld glue.
Male Female

6. INSPECTION FITTINGS
Another type of fitting, which is often used in PVC conduit installations, is the
'inspection" type fitting. Inspection fittings have covers, which are removable to
allow easy access for the drawing in and inspection of the cables.
The most commonly used inspection fittings are "elbow fittings” and “Tee-
fittings”. The Tee fitting is used to make branches off the conduit at the required
intervals. Elbow fittings are used to make 90 bends between horizontal and vertical
runs of conduit.
Elbow Fittings Tee-fittings
7. SADDLE CLAMPS
Saddle clamps are used to secure conduit runs to walls surfaces and beams.
There are two types of saddles, namely:
o Standard saddle clamps.
o Space-bar saddle clamps.
The standard saddle clamp is fitted over the diameter of the conduit and is used to
secure the conduit firmly against the wall or surface.
In cases where it is necessary to mount the conduit away from the wall surface, a
"space bar saddle" is used. The spacer bar lifts conduit clear of the wall or surface

and the saddle secures the conduit to the spacer. These fittings are generally used
for surface installations.
8. DISTRIBUTION BOARD
Conduit is ultimately connected up to the "distribution board". This is where the
main power-supply and circuit terminations are connected together through the
circuit breakers. There are two types of distribution boards, namely recessed
distribution boards that are mounted into the wall, and surface mounted
distribution boards, which are mounted on to the wall surface.
These distribution boards can be made of galvanised steel or PVC.
Flush mounted DB's consist of a bonding tray and clip tray. The bonding tray is fixed
into the chased wall and the clip tray and circuit breakers are mounted into this
bonding tray. A cover plate is then secured onto the bonding tray to cover all the
connections.
Surface mounted boards consist of a single box mounted onto the wall surface.
These are usually PVC boxes into which the circuit breakers are fitted.
NOW VIEW THE VIDEO UP TO REVIEW NO. 1.

SELF-TEST EXERCISE NO. 1
INSTRUCTIONS
o Read the directions below carefully before attempting the Self-Test.
o In this Self-Test you will be required to identify and explain the purpose of a
selection of PVC conduit and accessories without referring to your notes or the
video.
o Ask your Facilitator to evaluate your answers by using the checklist provided.
o A "Yes" response is required for each item listed below:
CHECKLIST:
Did you correctly identify and explain the function of the following
YES NO
parts:
1. 20 mm PVC conduit?
5. One-way conduit box? (or end box.)
6. Two-way conduit box? (through box.)
7. Right angled two-way connection box?
8. Three way conduit box?
9. Y-box?
10. Four-way round conduit box?
11. Back entry or loop in boxes?
12. Extension ring?
13. Couplings?
14. Socket box?
15. Switch box?
16. Male adaptor?
17. Female adaptor?
18. Inspection type elbow?
19. Inspection type tee?
20. Inspection coupling?
21. Saddle Clamp?
22. Spacer-bar saddle clamp?
23. Flush mounted distribution board?
24. Surface mounted distribution board?

CUTTING, BENDING AND SHAPING PVC CONDUIT
1. TOOLS REQUIRED
To cut and bend PVC conduit successfully you will need a few special tools. A "pipe-
vice" is needed for holding the conduit firmly in place when you are cutting it.
The cutting of PVC conduit is most usually done using a hacksaw, although a tube
cutter is also available to do this. If you are using a hacksaw, then it is recommended
that the conduit be supported in a pipe-vice to prevent crushing, and allowing both
your hands to be free to support the hacksaw.
A "de-burring tool" is useful for removing burrs from the conduit after it has been
cut.

"Bending springs" are an essential for bending PVC conduit neatly. The bending
spring is inserted into the conduit at the point where the bend is to be made. This
supports the conduit and prevents it from kinking or collapsing when the conduit is
bent.
2. TYPES OF BENDS & THEIR FEATURES

The following rules must be observed when bending conduit:
o The inner radius of the bend is at least three times the external diameter of
the conduit.
o The bends do not distort the internal shape of the conduit or open any weld.
o The conduit must not be split or damaged.
Now let us take a look at the basic types of bends that are used in PVC conduit
installations. The most commonly used bend in PVC conduit wire-ways is the "90°
set" or the "right angled set”. This bend is used between vertical and horizontal runs
of conduit, and it is fairly easy to produce. The radius of the 90° set should not be
less than three times the external diameter of the conduit.
So for example, if you are using conduit, which has an external diameter of 20 mm,
then the radius of the 90° set should not be less than 60 mm.
The ''single set” or 'kick" is generally bent to an angle of 45°. This angle is used to by-
pass obstructions.

The "double-set" is a combination of two single sets. This bend is generally used on
surface mounted installations where conduit enters distribution boards, switch
boxes and socket boxes.
For surface mounted installations the conduit is kept flush against the wall surface,
however when it enters the boxes it needs to be bent away from the wall surface so
that it can enter the box as squarely as possible. It is important that the double-set is
bent in such a way that the conduit above and below the set remains parallel to each
other so that the conduit can enter the connection boxes squarely.
The "saddle set" is used to cross obstructions such as beams, pillars or other pipes. It
is a combination of two double sets over an obstruction.
Now complete the Self-Check that follows to ensure that you are able to identify the
tools and bends used for PVC conduit.

INSTRUCTIONS
selection of tools and bends used with PVC conduit.
o Try not to refer to your notes or the video.
o When you have completed the Self-Check evaluate your answers by using the
checklist provided.
QUESTION YES NO
1. A ______________ is used to _______________ the conduit firmly

when cutting it.
2. A _____________ can be used to ____________ the conduit

instead of a tube-cutter.
3. Burrs left on the conduit can be removed with a

___________________ tool.
4. A 90 degree set is also known as a _______________ set. It is used

between _____________ and ______________ conduit runs.
5. ________________ are used to bend the PVC conduit neatly. They

are ______________ into the conduit to prevent it from
_______________ or ______________ when the bend is made.
6. The minimum radius that a 90 degree set should have is

_____________ times the _______________ diameter.
7. A single set or ___________ is often bent to an angle of ______

degrees.
8. The _________________ is a combination of two

__________________ sets. This bend is often used on
____________________________ installations where the conduit
enters switch boxes or distribution boards.

CUTTING, BENDING AND SHAPING PVC CONDUIT
1. PROCEDURES FOR CUTTING, BENDING AND SHAPING PVC CONDUIT

STEP 1
First check the ends of the conduit to make sure that they are cut "square" and neat.
If they are not, cut them square with a tube cutter or hacksaw.
STEP 2
Remove any burrs with a de-burring tool or a file. Any burrs left inside the conduit
will cause the conductors to snag when they are being drawn into the conduit.
Similarly, burrs on the outside diameter of the conduit will make it difficult to attach
couplings or fittings onto the conduit.
STEP 3
Next, before marking off and bending the conduit, you should draw a template or
''profile'' of the bend that you are going to be making. This profile must be drawn to
the full size and shape of the required bend. It can be drawn on the floor, on a piece
of cardboard, or on any other suitable flat surface.
This profile can be used to measure and check( the shape and size of the actual
bends as you are bending them .
STEP 4
Once you have drawn the profile, measure off the length of conduit required and
mark it off where you are going to bend it. Always allow a little extra length of
conduit to accommodate bends. If the conduit is too long it can always be trimmed
off, however if it is cut too short you will need to mark out and cut a whole new
length of conduit.

STEP 5
Select the correct diameter bending spring for the conduit to be bent, and attach a
length of wire to the eye of the spring so that it can be extracted from the conduit
easily after the bend has been made. As a guide, hold the spring against the outside
of the conduit and kink the wire at the top end of the conduit. This will ensure that
the spring is positioned correctly for bending.
STEP 6
Next, insert the spring into the conduit until the bend in the wire touches the end of
the conduit. This indicates that the spring is positioned correctly in the conduit.
STEP 7
PVC conduit is fairly soft and easy to manipulate, so it can be bent "cold". However,
if it is rubbed and warmed up before bending it does bend a little easier.
STEP 8
Position the conduit with the centre point of the bend against your knee.
STEP 9
Then, holding the conduit firmly on either side of your knee, give an even pull on
both ends of the conduit. Bend the conduit in a single motion over your knee.
Remember your knee is just to be used as a guide to start the bend.

Always bend the conduit more than the required angle because it will tend to
spring back open after it has been bent. After the conduit has been bent, release the
conduit slowly so that it can spring back to its bent position.
STEP 10
Using the profile you drew earlier, check the bend. Make sure that the conduit has
been bent to the required angle. If necessary, bend and adjust the conduit until it
matches the profile.
STEP 11
Once the bend is complete, fold the wire to create a handle, then extract the
bending spring from the conduit by twisting and pulling the spring simultaneously.
Take care not to force the spring, as this could stretch or damage it so that it cannot
be used again.
STEP 12
Check the conduit to make sure that the bends are smooth and uniform. The conduit
should not have sharp or kinked bends otherwise it will be difficult to draw cables
through. It should also not have any cracks or splits.
Sharp, kinked bends usually occur because:

o The conduit has been bent too quickly.
o It has not been bent with one smooth, even motion.
o The incorrect size bending spring was used.
2. SUMMARY
2.1. Cut ends square.
2.2. Remove burrs.
2.3. Mark off conduit bends
2.4. Insert bending spring.
2.5. Bend conduit.

2.6. Check and re-adjust bend.
2.7. Remove bending spring.
3. ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL PVC CONDUIT

When installing conduit it is common practice to:
o Make the runs as straight and square as possible.
o Keep the conduit horizontally and vertically square.
o Position the conduit well away from water pipes.
o Limit the number of bends as this makes it difficult to draw conductors
through.
3.1. ASSEMBLING CONDUIT AND FITTINGS

PVC bends, adaptors and couplings are secured to the conduit by means of PVC weld
glue. The conduit must not be threaded as this will weaken it and cause it to split.
The procedure for gluing fittings onto the conduit is as follows:
STEP 1
First spread some PVC weld glue onto the outside diameter of the conduit.
Take care not to spread the glue near the end of the conduit, leave a distance of
about 5 mm to 10 mm at the end which does not have glue on it. This is done so that
the excess glue does not squeeze into the conduit and cause an obstruction when it
dries.
STEP 2
Slip the coupling over the end of the conduit and push it on with a twisting motion
until it is seated firmly on the conduit. You must work quickly and carefully because
the PVC glue sets rapidly.

STEP 3
Next, apply some glue to the other piece of conduit and insert it into the opposite
end of the coupling or joint.
STEP 4
Allow the glue to dry (set) for a few minutes before you attempt to move or install
the conduit. Adapters are used to connect the conduit to switch boxes, socket boxes
and distribution boards.
The adapter is first glued onto the end of the conduit. Next, the threaded portion of
the adapter is fitted through the hole in the switch box and it is pushed up until the
shoulder is flush against the bottom edge of the box.
A lock-ring is then fitted onto the threads and secured firmly into place. Care must
be taken not to over-tighten the lock-ring otherwise you could strip the plastic
threads.
3.2. INSTALL SADDLE CLAMPS

PVC saddle clamps are used to secure the conduit to wall surfaces. These are
secured to the wall by means of wall plugs and screws. Spacer saddle clamps are
used where the conduit needs to be kept away from the wall surface.
When fitting spacer saddle clamps the spacer is mounted against the wall surface
first, then the conduit is secured in place onto the spacer by means of the saddle
clamp.

For long lengths of conduit, saddle clamps should be spaced no more than one meter
apart to prevent the conduit from sagging.
Now practice installing some saddle clamps, and secure a length of conduit onto the
wall under the supervision of your Facilitator.
Next, let us practice making some bends using PVC conduit.
4. BEND A RIGHT ANGLE SET

As you learnt earlier, the right angle set is a 90° bend. It is made as follows:
o Insert the bending spring into the conduit so that the centre of the spring is
positioned at the point where you want to make the bend in the conduit.
o Bend the conduit slowly in one motion over your knee using both hands.
Bend the conduit to approximately double the required angle. Take care not
to kink the conduit as this could also damage the spring.
o Release the conduit and allow it to spring back slowly.
o Remove the bending spring, and then adjust the conduit gently until the
required angle is obtained.
ASK YOUR FACILITATOR TO DEMONSTRATE THE PROCEDURE FOR BENDING A 90° SET.

PRACTICAL EXERCISE
1. Obtain a length of conduit, with a 20 mm diameter, from your Facilitator.
2. Bend a 90° set in the conduit.
3. Once you have completed the bend take it to your Facilitator to be evaluated.
5. BEND A SINGLE SET

The single set is used to direct the conduit around obstructions etc. You will
remember that we said a single set can be bent to any angle as required, however it
is generally a 45° bend.
The procedure for bending a single set is as follows:

o Mark the conduit at the point which you want the bend.
o Bend the conduit to an angle of approximately 45° about 100 mm from the
end of the conduit. Bend the conduit slowly in one motion over your knee
using both hands. Bend the conduit to approximately double the required
angle. Take care not to kink the conduit.
o Release the conduit and allow it to spring back slowly.
o Check the angle of the conduit and make adjustments if necessary.
o Remove the bending spring, and then adjust the conduit gently to the
required angle.
Ask your Facilitator to demonstrate the procedure of bending a single set.
PRACTICAL EXERCISE
1. Obtain some scrap 20 mm conduit from your Facilitator.
2. Bend a single set on each piece of conduit so that one is 100 mm and the
other 200 mm from the end.
3. Once you have completed each bend take it to your Facilitator to be
evaluated.
6. BEND A DOUBLE SET

The double set is used on surface mounted wire-ways where the conduit enters
distribution boards, switches and sockets. It is also used where there are
obstructions. The double set must be bent in such a way that the conduit above and
below the set remains parallel to each other after bending.
The procedure for bending a double set is:

o Mark the conduit at the point which you want the bend.

o Bend the conduit to an angle of approximately 45° about 100 mm from the
end of the conduit.
o Next, make another mark approximately 120 mm from the 45° bend.
o Make another 45° bend at this mark in the opposite direction. Remove the
bending spring, and then adjust the conduit gently to the required angle so
that the set fits into the distribution board, socket, or conduit connector box
at right angles.
ASK YOUR FACILITATOR TO DEMONSTRATE THE PROCEDURE FOR BENDING A SINGLE SET.
PRACTICAL EXERCISE
1. Collect a piece of 20 mm conduit from your Facilitator.
2. Bend a double set on this conduit.
7. BEND A SADDLE SET OVER AN OBSTRUCTION

A double set is used when conduit needs to be set over an obstruction. This type of
set is also often called a saddle set. The diagram below clearly shows how a double
set is used over obstructions:

To make a double-set over an obstruction:
o Mark out the profile that needs to be bent.
o Measure off the approximate length of conduit that will be needed to make
the sets.
o Make a mark at the centre point of the conduit.
o Place the centre point marked on the conduit exactly in the centre of the
obstruction.
o Mark the conduit at the outer edges of the obstacle. Make sure that these
marks are equidistant from the centre line.
o Insert the bending spring in the conduit at the first point to be bent. Set the
pipe to an angle of about 45°. Then move the spring and do the same to the
other side.

o Place the bent conduit on top of the profile you drew. Check the shape you
bent. The bends should be symmetrical and match the shape/dimensions of
the profile.
o Mark the conduit at point "X” on the inside edges where it crosses the
horizontal lines of your profile as shown in the diagram.
o Place the spring at point "XU in the conduit and bend the conduit to an angle
of 45°. Repeat the same process on the other side of the conduit.
o Ensure the sets are of equal height and that they are uniform. Also ensure
that the sets are bent so that the conduit does not touch the obstruction.
o Remove the bending spring and make the necessary adjustments to the
conduit.
Ask your Facilitator to demonstrate the procedure of bending a saddle set over an
obstruction
PRACTICAL EXERCISE
1. Collect a piece of 20 mm conduit from your Facilitator.
2. Bend a double set over an obstruction as specified on the diagram below.
NOW VIEW THE VIDEO TO THE END OF PROGRAMME ECO-1.

INSTRUCTIONS
o In this Self-Test you will be required to bend a 90° in a piece of conduit and bend a
double set over an obstruction as shown in the diagram below without reference to
your notes or the video.
CHECKLIST:
A “Yes” response is required for each item listed below: YES NO
FOR THE 90° BEND IN PVC CONDUIT:

1. Was a bending spring inserted into the conduit at the required point to
prevent the conduit from collapsing?
2. Was the conduit bent using one smooth movement?
3. Is the bend smooth and even?
4. Is the radius of the bend not less than 60 mm?
5. Is the conduit not cracked or kinked?
6. Is the bend set to 90°?
FOR THE DOUBLE SET OVER AN OBSTRUCTION:
1. Was a bending spring inserted into the conduit at the required point to
prevent the conduit from collapsing?
2. Do the sets have even 45° bends?
3. Are the sets bent to the specified height?
4. Do the sets have even heights?
5. Are the sets uniform?
6. Is the conduit not cracked or kinked?
THAT CONCLUDES THIS MODULE. WHEN YOU ARE READY,

YOU MAY PROCEED TO THE NEXT MODULE (ECO-2).

ABOUT MODULE ECO-2
OBJECTIVES
This module has been designed to introduce you to metal conduit, its accessories and the
procedures for cutting, reaming, threading and bending.

Part One: Identifying Metal Conduit and its accessories.
Part Two: Cutting, reaming and threading Metal Conduit.
Part Three: Bending and Shaping Metal Conduit.


LEARNING PROCEDURE
RESOURCES
You have been supplied with 2 main resources, namely:
o This workbook.
o A video programme.
GENERAL PROCEDURE
The recommended general procedure for leaming is as follows:
o Practice (where applicable) performing the tasks demonstrated by the video. This is
done in your Practical Training area under the supervision of your Facilitator (or
Mentor / Tutor).
completing it.

MODULE TWO
METAL CONDUIT AND ACCESSORIES (ECO-2)
OBJECTIVE
o Identify Metal Conduit and accessories.
o Cut, Ream and Thread Metal Conduit.
o Bend and Shape Metal Conduit.
PROCEDURES
o View video ECO-2 METAL CONDUIT AND ACCESSORIES all the way through.
o View the video again but this time STOP each time you see a REVIEW section.
notes.
o When you have mastered that section, by honestly receiving a YES response to each
RESOURCES
o This workbook.
o Video Programme ECO-2 METAL CONDUIT AND ACCESSORIES.

IDENTIFY METAL CONDUIT AND ACCESSORIES
1. INSTALLATION REGULATIONS APPLICABLE TO METAL CONDUIT

The regulations applicable to metal conduit are the same as for PVC conduit. You can
look up the regulations in the SABS Code of Practice 0142 under section on
"Conduit" (section 6.30) and under "wire ways" (section 7.21). Make sure that you
are familiar with the regulations before you continue.
2. METAL CONDUIT
Metal conduit is a wire way that is used to carry electrical cables or wires.
Metal conduit is used mainly in industrial applications and special installations for
the installation of lighting, socket outlets and machine connections.
Metal conduit has the following advantages:

o It is strong and provides good protection to conductors.
o Can resist serious mechanical damage.
o It automatically provides an earth return path.
o Can be used anywhere and is not affected by ultra-violet light, or direct
sunlight as PVC is affected.
o Can be used in any temperature range and is relatively fire proof.
o It is easy to extend existing wire ways
Disadvantages of metal conduit:

o It is expensive and fairly difficult to install.
o Cannot be bent and manipulated easily without special tools or equipment.
o It can corrode if exposed to water, condensation or chemicals.
Metal conduit is available in the following sizes:

o 20 mm.
o 25 mm.
o 32 mm.
o 50 mm.
In general, 20 mm conduit is used for domestic installations.
3. METAL CONDUIT ACCESSORIES

There are several different types of conduit accessories available for metal conduit.
These are very similar to PVC conduit accessories, except they are made of brass,
mild steel, or galvanized steel. The accessories are made in sizes that match the
different sizes of conduit.

4. EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR METAL CONDUIT
Metal conduit is much harder to manipulate than PVC conduit, so it requires some
special tools. In this section we will first take a look at the tools and equipment
required to manipulate the steel conduit.
4.1. A "PipeVice" is needed to hold the conduit when it is being cut and threaded.
4.2. A "Pipecutter" is the preferred tool for cutting metal conduit. This tool has an
adjustable cutting wheel that cuts through the pipe as it is turned into the pipe.
4.3. However, if you do not have a pipe-cutter then you can use a "hacksaw", The
hacksaw should be fitted with a "fine-tooth" blade.

4.4. Metal conduit requires threading so that the fittings can be attached to it. To
thread the conduit you will need a set of "stocks and dies".
4.5. The "die" is the part that cuts the thread. Dies are fitted into the "stock" which has
handles and a guide for the dies.
4.6. A "reamer", also called a "de-burring tool", is used to remove any burrs or ridges
from the inside diameter of the conduit. This can be used with a brace.
4.7. A special "pipe-bending tool", which many electricians call a "hickey", is used to
bend metal conduit to the required shape.

5. METAL CONDUIT FITTINGS
Now let us take a look at the common fittings used with metal conduit. Most fittings
are made of mild steel, galvanized-steel or cast-iron and are made to suit the various
sizes of conduit available.
There are two categories of fittings, namely:

o Solid fittings.
o Inspection fittings.
5.1. SOLID FITTINGS

Solid fittings most commonly used include "solid bends". These are used between
horizontal and vertical runs of conduit.
Solid Bend Solid Coupling
"Solid couplings" are used to join straight lengths of conduit together.
"Inspection fittings" have removable covers that enable cables to be pulled into the
conduit easily. They also allow for easy inspection of the conductors once they have
been installed in the wire ways.
An "inspection tee-junction", is used where wire-ways are branched off from the
main conduit line.

An "inspection elbow" is often used to join horizontal and vertical conduit runs. This
fitting is used especially where long conduit runs are installed and where there are
many bends in a circuit.
Inspection Tee Inspection elbow
"Connection boxes" are attached to the conduit at points where the cable is to be
joined, branched off, or terminated. These boxes are made of galvanized steel and
are secured to the conduit by means of lock nuts.
This is a "one-way connection box". It only has one way. This type of box is typically
used as an end box to accommodate a light fitting.
The "two-way connection box", also known as a "through box", has two ways which
can be connected to the conduit. This box is used to house the joint of cables from
two sections of conduit.

Another variation of the two-way connection box is the connection box which has
right angled" ways.
The "three-way connection box" has three ways to which the conduit can be
connected. Such a box can be used where a branch is made off the main conduit run.
The “four way connection box" has four ways to which conduit can be connected.
This box is used where two branches are necessary.
"Switch boxes" and "socket boxes" designed for use with metal-conduit are
generally made of galvanised steel. “Switch boxes" are used to house light-switches
whilst “socket boxes" are used to house socket-outlets.

Both types of boxes are made for either surface-mounted installation, or flush-
mounted installation.
Flush mounted Surface mounted
Steel "lock nuts" are used to secure the conduit to connection boxes and switch
boxes.
A "ring bush" is sometimes fitted onto the threaded ends of conduit to prevent
cables from being cut or damaged by the sharp edges. Ring-bushes may be found
where conduit joins into switch boxes, connection boxes and Distribution Boards.
Reducers and adapters are used when it is necessary to reduce the size of the
conduit so as to suit the size of the "entries" in connection boxes.


INSTRUCTIONS
Selection of metal conduit and accessories without reference to your notes or the
video.
o A “Yes” response is required for each item listed below.
Did you correctly identify and explain the function of the following
YES NO
accessories:
1. Metal conduit?
2. Pipe vice?
3. Pipe cutter?
4. Hacksaw?
5. Stocks & dies?
6. Reamer?
7. Hickey / pipe-bending tool?
8. A solid bend?
9. A solid elbow?
10. A solid T-junction?
11. A solid coupling?
12. An inspection T junction?
13. An inspection elbow?
14. An inspection bend?
15. An inspection coupling?
16. A locknut?
17. A ring brush?
18. A 1-way connection box / end box?
19. A 2-way connection box / through box?
20. A right angled connection box?
21. A 3-way round connection box?
22. A 4-way round connection box?
23. A back entry box?
24. An extension ring?
25. Switchbox flush mounted?
26. Switchbox surface mounted?
27. Socket box flush mounted?
28. Socket box surface mounted?
29. Reducer?
30. Adapter?

CUT, REAM AND THREAD METAL CONDUIT
1. CUTTING CONDUIT
Before cutting metal conduit, make sure that you have marked out and measured
the required lengths correctly. You must make sure that you have allowed sufficient
length for terminations, joints and bends when measuring the conduit to be used.
The conduit can then be cut using either a pipe cutter or a hacksaw. When cutting
the conduit ensure that the conduit is secured firmly in a pipe-vice.
It is important to use a pipe vice, (not an engineer’s vice) because this vice is
designed for holding pipes securely without crushing or deforming them.
When using a hacksaw, mark the pipe by making a "ring" mark around the pipe, or
place a piece of tape at the position to be cut. The edge of the tape acts as a guide
for the saw blade.
Keep the mark on the pipe which is to be cut as close as possible to the vice jaws.
However leave enough room to operate the hacksaw or pipe cutter with ease.
Use long steady strokes to cut the conduit with the hacksaw. Also keep the saw
square to the mark so that you produce a neat square cut.

If you are using a pipe cutter, first adjust the cutting wheel so that the cutter can fit
over the conduit. Then align the cutting wheel with the mark on the conduit.
Next, adjust the cutting wheel down until it just touches the conduit, then begin to
rotate the tool around the diameter of the conduit. It is very important that you
rotate the tool in one direction only.
As you rotate the cutter around the conduit, adjust the wheel pressure so that the
wheel cuts into the conduit. Continue to adjust the cutting wheel as you rotate the
Gutter around the conduit. Do not stop the rotation as you make adjustments.
Continue to do this until it the cutting wheel has cut right through the metal conduit
to produce a neat and square cut.
If the conduit has not been cut square it is important that it is filed square using a
suitable flat-file.
Whenever the conduit is cut a "burr" is created within the conduit. This burr must be
removed or you will run the risk of tearing or cutting through the cable-insulation
when the wire is drawn into the conduit later on.
2. THREADING METAL CONDUIT

It is necessary to thread metal conduit so that it can be joined and/or terminated at
connection boxes. These threads are produced by means of "dies". It is important

that the conduit is threaded correctly for the terminations otherwise they will not
make good joints.
The conduit should be threaded to a length approximately one thread pitch shorter
than the thread into which it is to be connected to.
If the conduit is to be connected to a connection box, then the thread should be one
pitch shorter than the length of the connector.
No threads should protrude beyond the connectors once the conduit has been
assembled.
Now let's take a look at the procedure for threading metal conduit:
o First secure the conduit firmly in a pipe-vice. Allow the conduit to protrude
enough for the stock and dies to run along the conduit.

o Next, assemble the stock and die for the required diameter conduit. For
example, a 20 mm conduit would require then 20 mm die. Select the
appropriate size guide and die for the conduit to be threaded.
o Insert the guide into the stock body.
o Next, place the die into the stock, making sure that the indents, which locate
the retaining-nuts, are facing upwards. Secure the die firmly in place with the
''retaining-nuts". (Fit the handles to the stock body if they are not already
fitted). The tool is now ready for use.
o Apply "thread cutting paste"to the end of the conduit, to lubricate the die
and help produce a clean thread.
o Carefully slide the stock onto the end of the conduit. Apply a gentle forward
pressure on the handles and begin turning the stock in a clock-wise or right-
hand direction.
o Continue to apply pressure along with the turning action until you can feel
that the dies have started to cut into the conduit. Keep turning the die and
after each full revolution of the stocks, turn the dies back about one quarter
of a turn. This will break off the metal shavings as they form in the die, and
prevent the teeth from "clogging".
o Once the desired thread length has been cut, remove the die by turning it in
an anti-clockwise direction until it clears the newly formed thread.
o Use an old paint brush to clean shavings from the threads after they have
been cut. (Don't try to use your hand for this or you will cut your fingers).

o Check the thread by turning a lock nut onto the threads by hand. If the
thread has been cut correctly the nut will turn onto the thread easily and
freely. Finally, clean the dies carefully and pack them away in their pack
3. REAMING CONDUIT
Once the conduit has been threaded, it is important to remove all burrs and
sharp edges that could cut or damage the conductors when they are drawn
into the conduit.
The tool used to cut away the burr is called a "tube reamer", or "de-burring
tool”. A hand-brace is used to drive the tool.
The burr is removed by rotating the de-burring tool in the conduit. Care must be
taken not to remove too much material. Sufficient material has been removed when
half the metal wall thickness has been reamed.

The work is complete when you have an end that is square, well threaded and
containing no internal burr.
4. TERMINATIONS OF CONDUIT
4.1. TERMINATIONS AT CONNECTION BOXES
A variety of different terminations are used when conduit is connected to
switchboxes, socket boxes, light switch boxes or main distribution boards.
The female ring bush and lock nut is used in terminations at distribution boards
because they have sufficient space for these locking devices. A locking bush and lock
nut is often used in terminations at socket boxes and switch boxes because they are
not as bulky.
The function of all these terminations is to ensure that the conduit is secured
firmly to the switch and socket boxes. They also ensure that the conductors are not
cut by the sharp edges of the conduit where it enters the switch box.
4.2. TERMINATIONS AT JUNCTION BOXES AND FITTINGS

It is very important that the threads that are secured into junction boxes, elbow,
bends and similar fittings are terminated correctly. The threads on the conduit must
not be too short (as shown in A below), otherwise the conductors will rub against the
sharp edges of the threads. Similarly, the thread must not be too long otherwise the
conduit thread will be exposed (as shown in B). The conduit should be threaded just
about one thread shorter than the length of the coupling (as shown in C ).

4.3. RUNNING COUPLINGS
A running coupling is used to join lengths of conduit together, especially when an
existing installation needs to be extended or added to. The end of one of the lengths
of conduit must be threaded so that it can take the full length of the coupling and a
lock nut as shown below.
Thread the second length of conduit just long enough for it to take half the
length of the coupling as shown below.
Next, fit the coupling and lock nut onto the first length of conduit. Then butt the two
lengths of conduit together and turn the coupling back until it is tight. Lock the
coupling in place with the lock nut.


INSTRUCTIONS
o In this Self-Test you will be required to cut, thread and ream a length of conduit.
o Ask your Facilitator to evaluate your work by using the checklist provided.
When threading the conduit did you: YES NO

1. Select the correct dies for the conduit?
2. Insert and assemble the die correctly in the stocks?
3. Secure the conduit firmly in a vice?
4. Allow the conduit to protrude from the vice for threading?
5. Apply cutting paste to the end of the conduit to be threaded?
6. Apply forward pressure to the stocks as you turn it in a clock-wise
direction until the die-nut started cutting a thread onto the pipe?
7. Remember to turn the dies back, turn after each full rotation to
prevent them from becoming clogged up with metal shavings?
8. Clean the shavings off with a paint brush?
9. Check the thread by running a lock-nut along the threads?
10. Ream the conduit to remove any burrs?
11. Thread the conduit to the required length for the connector?

BEND AND SHAPE METAL CONDUIT
1. BENDING METAL CONDUIT

Metal conduit is not as easy to bend as PVC conduit. PVC conduit is very soft and
easy to bend by hand. Metal conduit however, is rigid and has to be bent with a
special hand operated bending tool, also called a "hickey'. There are different types
of hickeys but the most commonly used type is the one with a fixed hook as shown
below:
Let us first familiarize ourselves with the different parts of the bender as we shall be
referring to them when we explain how to use the tool.
The main sections of the bender are:

o The "handle".
o The "head".
o The "hooked lip".
o The "slot".
o The "grooved head".
o The "heel".
Bending metal conduit is an "acquired skill" that comes with much practice.
However if you apply the tips given below, they will help you to master this skill fairly
quickly:
o The traditional method of bending conduit is to place the work piece on the
ground; however use of a rubber mat will help to prevent the work piece
from slipping around.
o Pressure can be maintained on the bender by placing your foot on the "heel".
o The handle must be pulled steadily but firmly. Since conduit is tough, you will
need to apply a considerable force to pull the handle. Where it is not possible
to place the work on the ground, the bender can be in an inverted position.
o It is important to make sure that the bender is well supported and that you
keep your hands well away from the bending lip.
o You will notice that the placement of your feet plays an important role in the
support and balance of all bending operations.

Benders are made for different sizes of conduit. In this module we will be using the
bender designed to accommodate 20 millimetre conduit.
It is important to remember that not all benders are the same in size and they will
produce bends that have different measurements. The point of the hooked lip is
always used as the "reference point" on the bender. It is advisable to test and
determine the measurements for the bender so that you know how mark off the
conduit accurately for bending.
2. TESTING AND CHECKING THE MEASUREMENTS OF A BENDER

Benders are made for different sizes of conduit. Make sure that you are using the
correct bender designed to accommodate the diameter of the conduit. In this case
we will be using a 20 millimetre conduit, so the bender should also be for a 20 mm
diameter conduit.
Before you use any bender it is recommended that you test it to make sure what
measurements need to be used to bend the conduit accurately.
One method of determining these measurements is as follows:

2.1. Obtain a straight "off-cut" of conduit and lay it onto a flat section of the floor.
With chalk or a marker pen draw a line along one edge so that a mark is made on the
side of the conduit. This mark will be a "reference edge" to indicate the "top" and
centre point of the conduit when you place it into the bender.
2.2. Now measure back and make a reference mark approximately 100 mm from the
end.
2.3. Place the conduit into the bender with the reference line facing upwards as shown
and position the lip of the bender on the 100 mm reference mark.
2.4. To create a 45° set, bend the conduit until the "heel" is roughly parallel to the
ground.

2.5. Use a 45° "try-square" to check the angle. You may have to adjust the bend a little
more until the angle is correct.
2.6. Next, make a mark at the centre of the 45° bend.
2.7. From this mark, measure the distance to the "reference-mark". In this particular
example the distance is 75 mm.
2.8. Note this measurement and keep it for later reference. This is the measurement
required for a "45° bending-point".
2.9. Now we'll create a 90° bend. Note that it is important not to over-bend the conduit,
as it is very difficult to bend the conduit "back" once it has been bent. Rather make
small, progressive bends until you achieve 90°. This can be checked according to a
"square".
2.10. A measurement is now taken from the level ground up to the original "reference-
mark". In this case the measurement is 130 mm. This is measurement must be
remembered and recorded as the "90° bending point".

2.11. You now have the "measurements" of the particular bender, which will enable you
to bend accurately.
PRACTICAL EXERCISE:
i. Obtain a length of 20 mm metal conduit from your Facilitator.
ii. Make a mark 100 mm from the end of the conduit. Bend a 45° set from this
mark. Determine and record the measurement for the particular bender.
iii. Next, continue to bend the conduit to 90° and record the measurement.
3. BEND A DOUBLE SET

The "double-set" is used typically for installing surface-mounted conduit-runs
into surface mounted switches and distribution boards.
The following illustration demonstrates one method for bending a double-set

using a bender:
3.1. Begin by threading the end of the conduit to the desired length of thread as you
were shown earlier.
3.2. Fit a lock nut onto the threaded conduit and thread it down the end of the thread.
3.3. Slip the bender onto conduit and place the lip firmly against the lock nut. Make a set
of less than 45°.

3.4. Then remove the conduit from the bender and check it. Check the conduit against
the entry hole in the box to make sure how much more the conduit needs bending.
The edge of the threaded conduit must be in line with the back of the entry when
the conduit is held against the wall.
3.5. To make the opposite set, fit the conduit back into the bender and position the bend
facing downwards. Set the bending-lip at the end of the first bend, as indicated.
Then bend the conduit up until the first set is parallel to the ground.
3.6. The conduit should now align directly with the entry in the switch box. Complete the
installation by securing the end with a lock nut and a bush if required and saddling
the conduit to the wall as necessary.

NOW VIEW THE VIDEO TO THE END OF PROGRAMME ECO-2.

INSTRUCTIONS
In this Self-Test you will be required to:
o Answer the questions about bending conduit.
o Bend a double set.
o A “Yes” answer is required for the checklist in section B.
SECTION A:
QUESTIONS YES NO
1. Identify the labelled parts of the pipe bender as illustrated below.
A = _____________________________________________________
B = _____________________________________________________
C = _____________________________________________________
D = _____________________________________________________
E = _____________________________________________________
2. A __________ _____________ is used for installing surface

mounted conduit into switch and socket boxes.
3. The ___________ of the bender is always used as the reference

point of the bender.
4. It is always advisable to ___________ and determine the

_________________ of the bender so that you can mark off
conduit accurately for bending.

SECTION B:
In this section you will be required to bend and install a double set.
When bending the double set did you: YES NO

1. Thread and ream the end of the conduit?
2. Fit a lock nut onto the thread and thread it down to the end?
3. Place the bender over the conduit lines up with the back end of
entry hole of the box?
4. Bend the conduit up until the back of the conduit lines up with
the back end of entry hole of the box?
5. Fit the conduit back into the bender with the bend facing
downwards?
6. Position the lip of the bender at the end of the first bend?
7. Bend the conduit upwards until the first set is parallel to the
ground?
8. Check that the conduit aligns directly with the entry hole in the
switch box?
9. Complete the installation by securing the conduit to the box with
lock nuts?
10. Fit a ring bush to prevent the cables from being damaged by the
conduit threads?
11. Ensure that the sets were neat and uniform?
THAT CONCLUDES THIS MODULE WHEN YOU ARE READY, YOU MAY PROCEED TO THE NEXT
MODULE (ECO-3).

ABOUT MODULE ECO-3
OBJECTIVES
This module has been designed to teach you to install conduit.

Part One: Install surface mounted conduit.
Part Two: Install conduit in chased walls.
Part Three: Install conduit in ceilings.


LEARNING PROCEDURE
RESOURCES
You have been supplied with 2 main resources namely:
o This workbook.
o A video programme.
GENERAL PROCEDURE
The recommended general procedure for learning is as follows:
o Practice (where applicable) performing the tasks demonstrated by the video. This is
done in your Practical Training area under the supervision of your Facilitator (or
Mentor / Tutor).
completing it.

MODULE THREE
INSTALLING CONDUIT (ECO-3)
OBJECTIVE
o Install surface mounted conduit and accessories.
o Install conduit and accessories in chased walls.
o Install conduit and accessories in ceilings.
PROCEDURES
o View video ECO-3 INSTALLING CONDUIT all the way through.
o View the video again but this time STOP each time you see a REVIEW section.
notes.
o When you have mastered that section, by honestly receiving a YES response to each
RESOURCES
o This workbook.
o Video Programme ECO-3 INSTALLING CONDUIT.

INSTALL SURFACE MOUNTED CONDUIT AND ACCESSORIES
1. INSTALLING CONDUIT
Before you can install any electrical wire, switches or fittings, it is necessary to
consult a building plan to determine exactly where the various fittings are to be
placed. It is also important that you are familiar with the electrical installation
requirements specified by the South African Bureau of Standards (SABS) in the SABS
0142 and SABS 0950. In some cases you may also need to refer to your local
authorities’ regulations to make sure that your installation complies with all the
regulations.
2. INSTALLATION REGULATIONS
The position of the distribution boards, conduit, socket outlets, switch fittings,
connectors etc. must be marked off on the wall surface by means of chalk
guidelines. All conduit runs must be installed in straight runs so that they are
horizontally and / or vertically square.
The following regulations must be adhered to when marking out the position of
conduit and its accessories.
2.1. DISTRIBUTION BOARDS

o May not be installed in bathrooms, above stoves, sinks or taps where it can
get moisture in the system.
o Must be installed in an accessible position. For example, in a kitchen or
passage.
o Must be set between a maximum height of 2.2 m and a minimum of 1.2 m.
2.2. LIGHT SWITCHES

o All light switches must be positioned where they are easily accessible. A
recommended height at which light switches can be set is 1.3 m.
o May not be installed in a bathroom unless they comply to specific regulations
stated in SABS 0142 (6.19).
2.3. SOCKET OUTLETS

o Should not be installed in a bathroom (zone 0 and 1) or near basins, sinks or
taps unless these comply to specific regulations stated in SABS 0142 (6.19).
o Should be positioned so that they are easily accessible. A recommended
height above floor level is about 300 mm.

2.4. BENDS
Ensure that all conduit bends are made according to the code of practice (SASS 0950
-C-5.3.5; C-5.6.2). The conduit from the distribution boards must be set parallel to
each other and all bends must be neat and uniform to each other, especially if the
conduit is surface mounted.
2.5. SECURING CONDUIT

The following regulations apply to the installation and fixing of conduit:
o Conduit must not span more than 1 metre between fixings. The conduit must
be fixed by means of saddles.
o Conduit does not need to be fixed if it is inaccessible or if it is supported by a
rigid horizontal surface where it is not likely to be disturbed.
o Conduit need not be fixed if it spans 1.5 metres or less between horizontal
members.
o Non-metallic conduit may be buried under the ground or fixed in concrete.
o Accessories must be fixed to the wall by means of appropriate fasteners such
as screws and plugs etc.
3. INSTALL CONDUIT ON WALL SURFACES

Now that you have a basic understanding of the regulations for installing conduit,
let's take a look at how to install "surface-mounted" conduit.
In most cases the electrician will mark out the intended position of surface mounted
conduit-runs. The position of the conduit runs and accessories is generally drawn
very roughly on to the wall surface by the electrician. The first task therefore is to
redraw the mounting positions neatly and clearly so that they are vertically and
horizontally square. This is done so that the work not only looks neat, but also so
that it meets the requirements of local regulations.
The tools and equipment needed to mark out the conduit runs include:
o A tape-measure for measuring.
o A chalk-line for marking out straight lines.
o A straight-edge for drawing lines.
o A square for checking the squareness of lines.
o A spirit-level for checking that the lines are horizontally level.
o Drawing-chalk, or a marking-crayon for marking the wall surfaces.
4. PROCEDURE FOR MOUNTING CONDUIT ONTO WALL SURFACES

4.1. Begin by measuring and marking off the mounting heights of the switch boxes,
socket outlets and distribution boards accurately in accordance with the SABS code
of practice 0142.

4.2. Next, set the boxes against the wall and level them so that they are vertically and
horizontally square. Chalk the outline of the box onto the wall. Also mark the centre-
positions of the conduit "entry-paints" clearly.
4.3. Using the entry-point positions marked off on the wall set up the chalk-line on these
marks. Mark off the wall using the chalk line. Both the vertical and the horizontal
lines must be set according to a spirit level. A square can also be used to check
whether the intersecting lines are at 90° to each other.
4.4. A "straight-edge" is then used to draw solid lines for clearer visibility.
4.5. Once the switch boxes have been set out and levelled, the mounting-screw
positions are marked off.
4.6. Next, mark off the positions for the saddles, then mark the position of the mounting
screws.
4.7. The holes for the mounting screws can now be drilled so that wall plugs can be
inserted into the wall. This must be done using a suitably sized "masonry- bit".
4.8. Drill all the holes for the switch boxes and the saddle bars, and then tap in
suitably sized wall plugs.
4.9. Next mount and secure all the fittings using correctly sized screws.
4.10. Once all the boxes have been secured in place on the wall you can proceed to
measure the required lengths conduit.
4.11. The required lengths are then cut to size, and the necessary adapters fixed to the
conduit (as you learnt in the previous programme).

4.12. Install the conduit to the boxes so that it does not bulge or sag.
4.13. All the saddles can then be attached and secured onto the conduit.
4.14. Finally, fit and secure the lock-nuts (and ring bushes if required) to all the adapters.

INSTRUCTIONS
o Read the directions carefully below before attempting the Self-Test.
o In this Self-Test you will be required to install conduit on a wall surface as specified in
the drawing provided by your Facilitator.
o Do this self-test without reference to your notes or the video.
When installing conduit onto a flat surface did you: YES NO

1. Mark out the layout of the circuit on the wall so that it was
vertically and horizontally square?
2. Ensure that the dimensions of the conduit and accessories were
correct according to the plan?
3. Mark and cut the conduit to the specified lengths?
4. Bend the conduit to the specified radius and angles?

5. Ensure that the inside diameter of the conduit was not distorted
or flattened by the bending?
6. Fix the conduit boxes securely to the wall surface?
7. Secure the conduit firmly into the conduit boxes and connectors?
8. Secure the conduit firmly into place on the wall surface be means
of saddles?
9. Ensure that the conduit and its accessories were positioned
horizontally square and vertically square?
10. Ensure that the layout was neat and within the specified
tolerances?

INSTALL CONDUIT IN CHASED WALLS
1. CHASING WALLS
For conduit which is concealed in the brickwork below the surface of the plaster,
the brickwork needs to be cut out to accommodate the conduit and its fittings.
The procedure of cutting out the brickwork in order to set conduit beneath the
wall face, is known as "chasing" the walls. The procedure for this is as follows:
1.1 Mark out the position of the conduit and accessories on the wall surface. Use the
same method as described in the previous section for marking off the wall.
1.2 Draw parallel lines, about 25 to 30 millimetres apart as a guide for the conduit.
1.3 Chasing is performed using an "angle-grinder". If you have not used an angle-grinder
then we strongly suggest that you familiarise yourself with this tool by viewing Tech
AV's programme "EAG" (Electrical Angle Grinder).
1.4 Before using the grinder you should first perform some routine checks. These
include:
o Checking the type of cutting-disk to make sure that a "MASONRY" disk is
fitted. If the grinder is fitted with a "metal cutting-disk" then it MUST be
replaced with a MASONRY disk, following the standard procedures for
replacement.
o Make sure that the disk is securely fastened on the spindle, and that the
guard, and the handle are firmly secured.
o Never use a worn-out or damaged disk.
1.5 Since the cutting or "chasing" process involves certain risks it is important that you
use "Personal Protective Safety-Equipment" in the form of:
o A dust-mask to filter the brick dust.
o Goggles to protect your eyes.
o A hard hat to protect your head.
o Gloves to protect your hands.
1.6 Hold the grinder firmly with both hands and switch the grinder on.
1.7 A vertical-cut should always begin at the top of the run, working downward. The
rotation of the wheel will tend to pull the machine down, so keep a firm grip on the
machine and "guide" its movement on the cutting line.
1.8 Cut the brickwork to a depth suitable for the particular size conduit being used. A
match-stick can be used to gauge the cutting-depth. A depth of about 5 mm more
than the diameter of the conduit will be sufficient to set the conduit below plaster
depth.
1.9 Remember that the aim is to set the conduit and accessories just beneath the
brick facing. The conduit and accessories must not protrude above the surface of the
bricks; neither should they be recessed too deeply, as you will have difficulty
securing the faceplates onto boxes.

1.10 Parallel cuts are made according to the marks drawn out earlier. These lines are
spaced wide enough to allow room for the width of the conduit being used.
1.11 Switchbox and socket box outlines can also be cut with the grinder. Do not be
concerned that the slots are wider than the box, as these will be covered with
plaster later.
1.12 Once the slots have been cut, the brickwork between them must be chiselled out
using a "cold-chisel" and a "club-hammer". This action requires some skill and you
will need to practice this work. The socket and switch box cavities are chiselled in
similar fashion.
1.13 Once all the cavities have been neatly chiselled out, the components can be
installed and assembled using the necessary adapters and lock nuts as you were
shown in previous programmes.
1.14 The conduit can be secured into the cavities, prior to plastering, by means of steel
masonry nails as shown.

1.15 The switch and socket boxes are normally wedged into position using wooden edges
to set the box square and level.
1.16 In order to prevent plaster from filling the connectors and switch boxes damp
newspaper is stuffed into the fittings. Plastering can now be performed over the
whole assembly.

INSTRUCTIONS
o In this Self-Test you will be required to install conduit and accessories as specified in
the drawing provided by your Facilitator. Secure the conduit into the chased wall.
o Do this self-test without reference to your notes or the video.
When installing conduit into chased walls did you: YES NO

1. First mark out the position of the conduit and conduit on the wall
surface?
2. Draw parallel lines to indicate the size of the conduit?
3. Allow a 5mm clearance on either side of the conduit?
4. Perform a routine check on the angle grinder before using it?
5. Wear the recommended personal protective equipment?
6. Hold the grinder firmly with both hands when starting it up.
7. Cut the brickwork on the marked out lines with a downward
action?
8. Cut the brickwork 5 mm deeper than the depth of the conduit
being used?
9. Chisel out the brickwork with a club hammer and cold chisel?
10. Measure the lengths of conduit required?
11. Cut the conduit to length?
12. Attach the required fittings to the conduit?
13. Secure the conduit firmly to the conduit box(es)?
14. Fix the conduit and its accessories into the chased cavity so that
they did not protrude above the brickwork?
15. Secure the conduit in the cavity by means steel masonry nails?
16. Install the correct accessories as specified in the drawing?
17. Ensure the installation was set out to the specified dimensions?
18. Block the apertures with damp newspaper to prevent the ingress
of concrete when plastering.

INSTALL CONDUIT AND ACCESSORIES IN CEILINGS
1. INSTALLING CONDUIT IN ROOF SPACES

Conduit and fittings can be fitted in the following places:
o Attics and roof spaces.
o Under roof eaves.
2. REGULATIONS FOR INSTALLING CONDUIT IN CEILINGS

Care must be taken, however, to ensure that the PVC conduit is not:
o Used outside the building in direct sunlight as this is likely to weaken the
conduit and make it crack up after some time.
o Used for carrying mechanical loads.
o Used in areas where it could be damaged by mechanical equipment.
o Used where it is subjected to temperatures below -15°C or above 70°C for
prolonged periods.
The wire-ways from the light fittings, switches and the distribution board are
usually connected up in the roof space above the ceiling boards.
These wire-ways must be installed in the ceiling as follows:

o Where it is out of the way and not likely to be damaged.
o Use saddles to secure the conduit to beams and brandering in the ceiling. Do
not use metal strappings and wire loops to secure the conduit (SABS0950; C-
5.2.).
o Conduit need not be secured to beams if it is unlikely to be disturbed,
however, it is preferable to secure it at intervals of 1 m for horizontal runs
and 1.5m for vertical runs (SABS0950 -C-5.2.2).
o All joints for PVC conduit must be made using PVC solvent cement (SABS0950
- C-5.2.3).
o Any conduit boxes that are of inspection type must be accessible (7.21 .1.1).
o Allow for expansion joints to compensate for expansion or contraction of the
conduit. At least an expansion coupling should be fitted into each straight run
that is more than 8m (SABS0950 -C-5.2.4).
o When PVC conduit is to be joined or connected to any metal unit, fittings and
joints manufactured specifically for this purpose must be used. Do not
attempt to thread PVC conduit to fit the metal connectors (SABS0950 -C-
5.2.5).
3. PROCEDURES FOR INSTALLING CONDUIT IN CEILINGS

Wire-ways connecting light fittings, and socket outlets to the distribution-board are
generally run in the roof space above the ceiling-boards. Since the space in roofs is

limited conduit-runs are usually positioned centrally, beneath the roof apex, to
provide for better accessibility.
Branches, off the main conduit run, are made using connection-boxes. Conduit in
the ceiling space is generally rested on the roof trusses. Where the trusses are
spaced more than 1 metre apart, the conduit must be secured with saddle clamps.
"Back entry" connection boxes are installed in the ceiling where light fittings are
terminated.
These boxes must be set "flush" with the lower edge of the ceiling-board
"brandering" to prevent them from interfering with the fitting of the ceiling
boards.

To prevent movement of the conduit and connection boxes the connection-boxes
should be secured, wherever possible, to the beams and ceiling batons.
The conduit runs must be kept as straight and neat as possible. Haphazard runs are
confusing and will present problems when maintenance or alterations are made to a
circuit.
When working in the roof above an erected ceiling take great care of where you
step. Avoid stepping on, or placing any weight upon the ceiling-boards since ceiling-
board is generally made of gypsum, which is not very strong. As a result it will not
support much weight.
Try to walk on the main roof-trusses or the visible brickwork wherever possible.
Except for the cramped or confined working space, there is no difference in working
in a ceiling or at ground level. All jointing and assembly work will be identical to the
procedures that you have already been shown in previous programmes.
Expansion couplings are fitted into conduit runs which are longer than 8 metres. This
joint fits over the conduit loosely and allow for expansion and contraction in the roof
beams and conduit.

INSTRUCTIONS
o In this Self-Test you will be required to install conduit and accessories in a ceiling as
specified in the drawing provided by your Facilitator.
o Complete this self-test without reference to your notes or the video.
When installing PVC conduit in roof spaces did you: YES NO

1. Bend the conduit correctly?
2. Set out the conduit according to dimensions specified in the
diagram?
3. Secure the conduit firmly in place by means of saddles?
4. Secure the back-entry box flush against the ceiling boards?
5. Ensure that the conduit is horizontally square?
6. Ensure that the conduit set is vertically square?
7. Secure all the joints firmly in place?
8. Avoid walking on the ceiling boards?
THAT CONCLUDES THIS MODULE.

Electrical Construction Operator: Learner Guide

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ELECTRICAL CONSTRUCTION

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN IN THIS MODULE

HOW WELL YOU WILL PERFORM

Back to Table of Contents 1

You have been supplied with 2 main resources namely:

The recommended general procedure for learning is as follows:

Back to Table of Contents 2

Back to Table of Contents 3

PVC has the following advantages:

PVC conduit is available in the following sizes:

In general, 20 mm conduit is normally used in household installations.

Back to Table of Contents 4

Another variation of the two-way connection box is the right-angled two-way

Back to Table of Contents 5

Back to Table of Contents 6

4. SWITCH BOXES AND SOCKET BOXES

Back to Table of Contents 7

Recessed Surface mount

Back to Table of Contents 8

Elbow Fittings Tee-fittings

Back to Table of Contents 9

These distribution boards can be made of galvanised steel or PVC.

NOW VIEW THE VIDEO UP TO REVIEW NO. 1.

Back to Table of Contents 10

Back to Table of Contents 11

Back to Table of Contents 12

2. TYPES OF BENDS & THEIR FEATURES

Back to Table of Contents 13

Back to Table of Contents 14

1. A ______________ is used to _______________ the conduit firmly

2. A _____________ can be used to ____________ the conduit

3. Burrs left on the conduit can be removed with a

4. A 90 degree set is also known as a _______________ set. It is used

5. ________________ are used to bend the PVC conduit neatly. They

6. The minimum radius that a 90 degree set should have is

7. A single set or ___________ is often bent to an angle of ______

8. The _________________ is a combination of two

Back to Table of Contents 15

1. PROCEDURES FOR CUTTING, BENDING AND SHAPING PVC CONDUIT

Back to Table of Contents 16

Back to Table of Contents 17

Sharp, kinked bends usually occur because:

Back to Table of Contents 18

3. ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL PVC CONDUIT

3.1. ASSEMBLING CONDUIT AND FITTINGS

The procedure for gluing fittings onto the conduit is as follows:

Back to Table of Contents 19

3.2. INSTALL SADDLE CLAMPS

Back to Table of Contents 20

Next, let us practice making some bends using PVC conduit.

4. BEND A RIGHT ANGLE SET

Back to Table of Contents 21

5. BEND A SINGLE SET

The procedure for bending a single set is as follows:

Ask your Facilitator to demonstrate the procedure of bending a single set.

6. BEND A DOUBLE SET

The procedure for bending a double set is:

Back to Table of Contents 22

7. BEND A SADDLE SET OVER AN OBSTRUCTION

Back to Table of Contents 23

Back to Table of Contents 24

NOW VIEW THE VIDEO TO THE END OF PROGRAMME ECO-1.

1. A is used to _ the conduit firmly

2. A _ can be used to the conduit

7. A single set or _____ is often bent to an angle of

2. A ___ is used for installing surface