Final

Internship Report
At
Gokaldas Exports Ltd
on
Manpower Reduction and Waste
management
Rohit Kumar
Shalu Kumari
Under the guidance of

Ms. Sudha Singh (Associate Professor)
Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology
Bengaluru
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 1

ABSTRACT
The fast changing economic conditions such as global competition, frequent style
changeover, declining profit margin, customer demand for high quality product, product
variety and reduced lead–time etc. had a major impact on manufacturing industries. The
demand for higher value at lower price is increasing and to survive, apparel manufacturers
need to improve their operations through- waste reduction, control production losses, know
the root causes for the loss, reduce downtime, easy communication between lower and
upper level of management and so on. As a part of our curriculum we have done a
departmental study which has given me a basic idea about how the factory works and what
are the day to day problems they face .The project deals with an application of methodology
in an industry which provides a framework to identify, quantify and eliminate issues on the
production floor, to optimize the operation variables, reduce downtime and obtain
accountability for the problems caused. The application of this project reduces the
manpower in heat transfer process, leading to better utilization of resources, on time raw
material availability on sewing floor & maintains consistent quality of the process output.
The outcome of this observation results in better utilisation of human resource and
machines and reducing SAM of heat transfer process.

ACKNOWLEDMENT
It has always been my sincere desire as a technology student to get an opportunity to express
my views, skills, attitude and talent in which I am proficient. A project is one such avenue
through which a student who aspires to be a future manager does something creative. This
internship has given me a clear idea about my future preferences and how actually a factory
runs practically and the project has given me the chance to get in touch with the practical
aspects of research.
Apart from our efforts, the success of any project depends largely on the encouragement and
guidelines of many others. We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to the people
who have been instrumental in the successful completion of this project.
We would be grateful to my mentor Mr. Manjunath, Mr. Pavan (IE) & Mr. Ashok (AFM)
who have always helped me throughout the internship and has always been supportive.
Along with that we would like to thank our internal mentor Ms. Sudha Singh , Mr. Arivoli. N
who have always shown me the right and the appropriate way to move forward in spite of me
not being positive about it.
I would like to convey my immense gratitude and indebtedness towards the management,
staff and workers of “GOKALDAS EXPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED.” for their time,
selfless help and support & their urge to make me learn & understand everything properly &
for helping me throughout this internship.
I would also like to thank the all managerial department heads for co-operating and helping
throughout.
Thank you all for being so supportive.
Signature of Candidate
(Rohit Kumar, Shalu Kumari)
Date: Department of Fashion Technology
Place: Bengaluru NIFT, Bengaluru

Chapter 1
ABOUT THE COMPANY

1. ABOUT THECOMPANY
1.1 INTRODUCTION
Gokaldas Exports Ltd (GEX) was incorporated in 1979. GEX is a major player in the
readymade garment industry across the globe. The company which is an ISO 9001:2000
Certified Company is one of the largest manufacturers in India and amongst the largest
internationally. Retaining strong family values and ethics, it has grown to be one of the
world’s best known and reliable manufacturers of readymade garments. Headquartered in
Bangalore, Gokaldas Exports operates out of more than 18 factories located in and around
Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, Mysore and Tumkur. The factories are dedicated by buyers
and by products, specializing in creating Outerwear, Blazers and Pants (Formal and Casuals),
Shorts, Shirts, Blouses, Denim Wear, Swim Wear, Active and Sports Wear, keeping pace
with the requirements of famous labels in 39 countries. Global customer base, covering USA,
Europe, Latin America, Middle East and India, servicing almost all major brands
Gokaldas has four decades of partnering the world’s most trusted fashion labels. They have
lead the readymade Indian garment industry, year after year, earning customer loyalty,
winning industry awards and growing reputation for reliability. They have oriented
themselves to fashion trends and customer needs, investing in the latest technology,
relentlessly training the high skilled workforce and setting the highest standards for
themselves.
At Gokaldas Exports, production is optimized through state of the art technology and
infrastructure. Computerized spreading machines, auto jig, sleeve setting and pocket welting
machines carry out the relevant processes with swift efficiency. Fully fledged embroidery,
printing, seam sealing, washing and dyeing sections are equipped for accuracy and speed.
The vital aspect of fusing is handled by highly trained technical operators on top of the line
fusing machines, to achieve the perfect quality required.
Highly organized production systems co ordinate seamlessly for optimal efficiency, each unit
is streamlined, specializing in the manufacture of a specific product. Steady capacity
generation and strategic alliances with leading processing houses enable Gokaldas Exports to
raise the bar on quality and production standards.

The factories are automated with state of the art technology and ERP systems, generated
towards mass production. Gokaldas Exports produces and exports 3 million garments each
month. There are 100% export oriented factories, licensed for duty free imports of fabrics and
accessories for re-export. To give greater control over quality and shorten the product- to-
market timeline, all processes involved in garment manufacture are handled in house.
Factories have their own in built stores for fabrics and accessories, enabling them to complete
one particular order at a time. The company’s factories are compliant with modern
manufacturing practices to ensure higher productivity and on time delivery.
Figure 1.1: Head office

1.2 COMPANY PROFILE
Company Name GOKALDAS EXPORTS LTD.
Company Logo
Gokaldas Exports Limited.
#16/2, Residency Road, Bangalore - 560025
Head Office Address Karnataka, INDIA
Tel: +(91)-(80)-41272200/01/02
Fax: +(91)-(80)-33477491
WEBSITE http://www.gokaldasexports.com/index.html
Year Established 1979
Annual Turnover USD 200 million
Total Workforce 22,500 employees as on March 31, 2016.
Table 1.1: Company profile

1.3 COMPANY HISTORY
The Gokaldas Exports group, was set up by the late Shri Jhamandas H. Hinduja. At that time
group expanded through partnership firms. The prevailing regulatory environment, labour
laws and reservation for small scale industries made it conducive for growth through forming
partnership firms.
Figure 1.2: Founder of GEL
The Company is engaged in the business of design, manufacture, and sale of a wide range of
garments for men, women, and children and caters to the needs of several leading
international fashion brands and retailers. The principal source of revenue for the Company is
from export of garments and related products.
The Company started as a business that manufactured silk scarves and stoles and later
changed its business model to manufacture shirts in a 1,000 square feet rented space with 40
leg machines. The company targeted export markets- primarily The US and Europe and
began to expand through partnership arrangements. As volume grew, technology was
introduced for keeping records. The factory floors were transformed by introducing
advanced, computer controlled machines replacing those run on leg power. The 70 or 80
manual patternmakers once a source of numerous problems had been replaced by five to six
CAD systems. Huge industrial washing machines churned denim garments to give them the
look of the hour stonewashed, acid washed, bleached while other garments were manually

spray painted, sand blasted or laser engraved. Massive multi head embroidery machines
emblazoned shirts and jackets with appliqués, badges, and embroidery.
Gokaldas was able to provide its clients with “any kind of garment right from ultra formal to
ultra casual across men’s, women’s and children’s wear.” Eventually, it specialized in
outerwear, like coats and jackets; active wear, like warm ups and swimsuits; bottoms, like
trousers and shorts; and casual wear, including shirts, blouses and dresses.
By end of 2004 Gokaldas had 43 factories with 258 production lines scattered in and around
the southern Indian city of Bangalore. It had more than 35,000 workers, which was nearly
double the no. it employed in 1999-2000, and its total sales had increased at an annual
compounded growth rate of 19.67% over this period. The company was valued at
approximately $215 million and exported nearly 90 percent of its production.
GEL, the Company was incorporated on March 1, 2004 by converting the erstwhile
partnership firm Gokaldas India under Part IX of the Companies Act, 1956. Pursuant to the
order of the Hon’ble High Court of Karnataka dated November 20, 2004, Gokaldas Exports
Private Limited and The Unique Creations (Bangalore) Private Limited have been
amalgamated with the Company, with April 1, 2004 being the appointed date.
The Blackstone Group, an US asset management company took over the company from the
Hinduja family (not the Hinduja Group) during the economic downturn in 2008-09, which led
to loss of orders from the US and Europe and has been struggling to turn around the company
since.

1.4 BOARD OF DIRECTORS
Figure 1.3: Chairman of GEL
Figure 1.4: MD of GEL Figure 1.5: Director of GEL
Figure 1.6: Independent directors of GEL

1.5 AWARDS AND ACCOLADES
Gokaldas Exports has won the highest number of awards in Asia since 1980. The company
has also won all the top export awards amongst all Indian garment manufacturers. The
company was awarded by Apparel Export Promotion Council for its achievement award for
outstanding export performance. Gokaldas Exports received award from Nike for achieving
an on–time delivery performance of 99%.
Figure 1.7: Awards and Accolades

1.6 VISION AND MISSION & QUALITY POLICIES
 VISION
“To be a globally reputed apparel manufacturer, evoking distinctive recognition for Product,
Performance, Processes and People.”
 MISSION
“Achieve profitable growth through Innovation, Quality, Consistency and Commitment.”
 QUALITY POLICIES
• “As leaders in the manufacture of quality garments for the international markets, we
shall strive to meet the needs and expectations of our customers through a proactive
approach”
• “High intention, Sincere effort, Intelligent Direction and skillful execution is the key
to success”
• “We shall commit ourselves to Quality Management System Standard (QMS) and
continually improve the same.”
• “We are committed to delight our customers by the application of state-of-the-art
technology.”
1.7 CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY POLICY
GEX believes that in the strategic context of business, beyond financial goals, there is a need
to actively contribute to the Social, Economic and Environmental Development of the
Community in which we operate, as well as ensuring participation from the community and
thereby create value for the society at large.
CSR Policy:
 Promotion of Education: Promoting education, including special education and

employment-enhancing vocational skills especially among children, women, elderly and
the differently able, and livelihood enhancement projects; monetary contributions to
academic institutions for establishing endowment funds, chairs, laboratories etc., with the
objective of assisting students in their studies.

 Promoting Healthcare through awareness programs, health check-ups, provision of
medicine and treatment facilities, prevention of female feticide through awareness
creation, program for preventing disease and building
immunity.
• Eye care camps
• Oral health care drive
• Child care facilities and amenities training and
awareness drive
• HER — an initiative for women health care
• Hepatitis-B vaccination for all the employees free of cost
Figure 1.8: Eye care camp
• Free distribution of protein supplements
• Hemoglobin / Anemia tests conducted for 9,000 employees
 Ensuring Environmental Sustainability and ecological balance through:

• Reverse Osmosis Plant in Denim Laundry to enable 85% recycling of wash water
• Solar Lighting for external factory periphery implemented on pilot basis for 6
factories done
• 3 Factories obtained the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards) Certification in
first attempt
• Use of Electronic Chokes in place of aluminum chokes to reduce power consumption
• Use of Agro based briquettes as boiler fuel in place of Diesel
• Install Condensate recovery system for Boilers to reduce fuel consumption
• Decentralization of power switches in production floor to conserve power
• Use of Turbo ventilators to replace exhaust fans run by power
• Recycling of Machine Oil after use
• Rain water harvesting – 1st Project completed in Indigo Blues
 Promoting gender equality and empowering women including:

• Promoting and providing credit support to women’s self help groups
• Training in vocations pursued by women
• Setting up homes for women & orphans
• Setting up old-age homes and other facilities for senior citizens

 Other Activities
• Welfare for differently disabled persons
• Development of nearby villages, providing support to Women and Kids for their
health and education and other facility
• Education awareness of nearby village and for women and kids.
The company, as a responsible manufacturer, is committed to take adequate measures related

to environment, employee health and safety in developing, manufacturing, storing, handling
and distribution of our products. It is their responsibility to provide a workplace free from
accidents, injuries and exposure to hazardous substances, conserve natural resources and
prevent pollution to protect the environment.
Besides, as a constructive partner in the communities in which it operates, the Company has
been taking concrete actions to realize its social responsibility objectives, thereby building
value for its various stakeholders. The company respect human rights, value their employees,
and invest in innovative technologies. In the past the Company has supported innumerable
social and community initiatives and continues to do the same.
Some of the key initiatives taken by the company are:
• Regular fire safety audits along with mock drills at all locations
• Identification and implementation for additional fire safety measures for high rising
buildings
• Up–gradation of existing fire control and safety systems including training on fire
prevention for employees
CSR Funds :
• 2% of the average Net Profit made by the Company during immediately preceding
financial year.
• Any income arising there from.
• Any surplus arising out of CSR activities carried out by the Company and such
surplus will not be part of business profit of the Company.

1.8 PRODUCT RANGE
Gokaldas has the capability to produce a wide product range; among these are:
 Formal suits ,Casual shirts, Formal shirts

 Casual trousers, shorts
 Outerwear jackets, Coats, Parkas, Rainwear
 Ladies blouse, Skirts, Dresses
 Sportswear, active wear
 Denim wear
 Sleepwear
 Kids wear

1.9 CUSTOMERS
Figure 1.9: Customers of GEL

2. GOKALDAS EXPORTS FACTORIES
At Gokaldas Exports, production is optimized through state of the art technology and
infrastructure. Computerized spreading machines, auto jig, sleeve setting and pocket welting
machines carry out the relevant processes with swift efficiency. Fully fledged embroidery,
printing, seam sealing, washing and dyeing sections are equipped for accuracy and speed.
The vital aspect of fusing is handled by highly trained technical operators on top of the line
fusing machines, to achieve the perfect quality required.
Highly organized production systems co ordinate seamlessly for optimal efficiency. Each unit
is streamlined, specializing in the manufacture of a specific product. Steady capacity
generation and strategic alliances with leading processing houses enable Gokaldas Exports to
raise the bar on quality and production standards.
The factories are automated with state of the art technology and ERP systems, generated
towards mass production. Gokaldas Exports produces and exports 3 million garments each
month. There are 100% export oriented factories, licensed for duty free imports of fabrics and
accessories for re-export. To give greater control over quality and shorten the product- to-
market timeline, all processes involved in garment manufacture are handled in house.
Factories have their own in built stores for fabrics and accessories, enabling them to complete
one particular order at a time. All in house facilities are integrated to facilitate speed, be it
fabric cutting, fusing, finishing or packing. So that, whether it is a large bulk order or a small
specialized order, Gokaldas Exports has what it takes to execute it on time.
The manufacturing units are:
Sl. No. Factory Name Location
1 JDC JD Clothing Company, No.9, Industrial Suburb Rajaji

Nagar,Bangalore – 560010,Karnataka – India.
2 AA- II Atlantic Apparels II, Plot No.28 D & E, Belawadi

Industrial Area, Mysore – 570018,Karnataka – India.

3 WCA Wearcraft Apparels No.17/1-38/4-1, Industrial Suburb,
Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore,Karnataka – India.
4 TA- VI Triangle Apparels – VI, # 25/26, 3rd Main Road,

Industrial Suburb, Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore,Karnataka –
India.
5 ECC- I Euro Clothing I, No.122/1, Doddabidarukallu Village,

Yeshwantpur, Bangalore – 560077,Karnataka – India.
6 ECC- II Euro Clothing Company II, T.B.Road, Srirangapatna,

Mandya District,Karnataka – India.
7 HPF Hinduja Processing & Finishing Unit No 2, 5th Cross,

Mysore Road,Bangalore – 560026,Karnataka – India.
8 ICC- I International Clothing Company IV, No.180/1,

Yellakunte, BegurHobli, Hosur Road, Bangalore,
Karnataka – India.
9 ICC- II International Clothing Company-II Survey No.113,

Hongasandra Village, BegurHobli, (Near Bhondary
Factory) 7th Mile,Bangalore – 560068,Karnataka – India.
10 CCC- I Carnival Clothing Co, No.2/A-1, Chikkaveeranna Road

Cross, Bannimantap Etn, Mysore,Karnataka – India.
11 CCC- II Carnival Clothing I & III Govindapuram , Main Road,

Bangalore – 560045,Karnataka – India.
Carnival clothing company-II, Benganur Village

Bangarpet - KGF Road, Kolar, Karnataka – India.
12 VCC- II Venkateswara Clothing Company II, No.10, KHB, Colony

Industrial Area Yelahanka, Bangalore – 560064,
13 GG- I Global Garments I, No.17/1-38/4, Industrial Suburb,

Yeshwantpur,Bangalore – 560022,Karnataka – India.
14 GI Gokaldas India, No.21C & 21B, Survey No.34,35,36 &

37, Nallakadaranahalli, Peenya II Stage, Industrial Area,
Peenya, Bangalore, Karnataka – India.
15 R&D Gokaldas Exports R&D I, No.78, Mission Road,

Gokaldas Exports R&D II, No.10, Mission Road,

Gokaldas Exports (P) Ltd, R &D - III # 76/1, II & III

Floor, Mission Road, Kalingarao Road, Bangalore –
560027,
16 GESEZ (Chennai) Chennai SEZ Division, No.6/1, II Phase, MEPZ, NH - 45,

Tambaram,Chennai (Madras),Tamil Nadu – India.
17 IB (Denim washing Indigo Blues, Plot No-2, KIADB Industrial Area,

unit) Doddaballapur ,Karnataka – India.
18 GG III (Washing Global Garments III Annexe, No.40/2, 2-1 & 2-3, 1st
Unit) main, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwantpur,
Bangalore – 560022,
19 Luckytex I No.17/A-34/A-1, Industrial Area, Yeshwanthpur,

(Embroidery Unit) Bangalore,
Table 1.2: Factories of GEL

Chapter 2
VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS AT
PLANNING STAGE

3. VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS AT PLANNING STAGE
3.1 SOURCING
The sourcing department acts as a service department to Gokaldas Exports and is divided into
two parts. One takes care of only the fabrics while the other works on accessories and trims.
Sourcing is identifying and procuring of raw materials with right quality, right quantity, right
source, sharp and competitive prices and the best lead time. There are few major components
involved in the sourcing process. These are as follows:
Recieve indent from marketing
Create (PO) Purchase Order and

send to the supplier
(Nominated or Non- Nominated)
Recieve (PI) Proforma Invoice

confirmation from supplier
Follow up
Create Advance Shipment Notice

(ASN) and intimate the godown/
warehouse about the material in
transit
Recieve Goods Reciept Note

(GRN) on receipt of the material
3.1.1 Fabric sourcing: Fabric sourcing department is responsible solely for sourcing the
fabrics for sampling and development as well as for bulk. The organization structure
is such that they have different teams for different buyers which are further divided
as sourcing for development and bulk.
The various outputs provided by the sourcing department are as follows:
Quality Information Lead Times (regular quality)
Lap dip 5 to 12 working days, (local/ imported)
Desk Loom 7 to 15 working days, (local/ imported)
Strike off (table/ rotary) 10 to 15 working days, (local/ imported)
Any special quality greige 2 to 3 weeks
Sample Yardages Lead Times
Solid 3 to 4 weeks
Prints/ Yarn Dyed 4 to 5 weeks
Bulk Fabric Lead Times
Solids (regular quality) 45 to 50 days
Prints 50 to 55 days
Yarn Dyed 55 to 65 days
Table 2.1: Lead times for sourcing
One more important function of the sourcing department is to provide important information
to the merchants and the marketing department. For sampling and development, the sourcing
department provides with the pricing, quality information and any special requirements such
as alternate sources, different finishes, etc. of the fabrics to be sourced. For bulk order
processing, they provide information regarding the delivery date, TNA and FOB (different
for solid, yarn dyed, etc.)

3.1.2 Trims and accessories sourcing:
The trims and accessories sourcing department is divided buyer wise as well. Further, it is
divided trims/ accessory wise. For example, a particular team comprising of 2 to 3 people are
responsible only for sourcing buttons and another team is responsible for sourcing zippers,
etc. Similar to the fabric sourcing department, for trims also there are nominated and un-
nominated suppliers. When an indent is received from marketing, the sourcing merchant first
contacts the Inventory Allocation Department (IAD) to check if the trims requested by the
merchandiser are already available in stock. If not, the sourcing merchant places the order
with the suppliers. If IAD has stock, then only balance trims (if any) are ordered for.
For different materials from different suppliers, imported or local, there are different payment
and delivery terms. It is the sourcing merchant’s responsibility to get the most suitable term
with the supplier and continuously follow up for the same.
3.2 SAMPLING
The sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a vital role in
the uplifting of a unit. The dedicated sampling unit includes machinery for knits and woven
plus on site embroidery. Sampling department directly coordinates with the merchandising
and the production department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when
produced in bulk and to check whether there is any discrepancies in the pattern and the
samples are made according to the buyer’s specification. Sampling checks the construction of
the garment and the production feasibility and friendliness of the style. The sampling
department operators are highly skilled and are capable of tailoring a complete garment.
Two main functions of the sampling department are:
a. To cater the buyer

b. New development
Different types of samples are made at the sampling department based on the demands and
specifications of the buyer. These are:

 Proto sample: This is the first sample made for the buyer. At this stage, the main aim is
to impress and attract the buyer and show them the capabilities of the company. This
sample is applicable for the styles which are made without any prior presentation of
samples to buyer.
 Fit sample: Once the Prototype sample has been approved, the buyer is provided with fit
sample for approval. This sample is prepared using the actual or a similar quality fabric,
as mentioned in the Tech pack, but could be in any colour and available trims.
 Size Set: Once the fit sample is approved, based on the pattern of the approved sample
the grading for other sizes are done and pattern for all the sizes are made. Then the
samples for all the other sizes are made to check the fit and workmanship.
 Pre- Production sample: On approval of the fit sample or size set sample, pre-
production samples are sent to customer, which is the actual in all aspect of trims, folding
and packing.
Apart from these, two more types of samples are made at the factory itself to acquaint with
the styling, construction, wash, etc. of the style. These are:
 Production Size Set
At times, at the buyer’s request, size set samples are made at the factory as well before
proceeding for bulk.
 TOP (Top of Production) sample
Sometimes buyer wants sample that production has been started. It includes all the trims,
package sticker, and price ticket of a related garment.
The sampling unit (R&D III) is divided buyer wise and each buyer has a designated
technician and QC. After the samples are made, a review sheet is maintained for each style
for any further alterations.

 Sampling department workflow:
Activity Team involved
Receive indent by mail, print indent, update information on sampling Data entry
software and hand over indent copy to respective sampling coordinator operator/ Sampling
coordinator
Accept indent, verify information provided on indent Sample

coordinator
If non wash program; coordinate with R&D pattern coordinator and get Sample
pattern pulled from pattern department or pattern store with all coordinator/ R&D
necessary documents required for sample making (Documents- pattern coordinator
techpack, BOM, PAM comment, sample print/ embroidery/ artwork or
strike off)
If wash program; check shrinkage received from marketing on indent Sample

and update CAD to release shrinkage added pattern coordinator/ Plot
coordinator at
CAD department
Coordinate with R&D pattern coordinator and get shrinkage added Sample
pattern pulled from pattern department along with all necessary coordinator/ R&D
documents required for sample making (Documents- techpack, BOM, pattern coordinator
PAM comment, sample print/ embroidery/ artwork or strike off)
Prepare style file Sample

coordinator
Coordinate with material collector and get the package collected from Sample
merchandising. Package contains BOM copy, approved fabric and coordinator/
thread card. Trims for sampling and finishing Material collector
Verify sampling package and make sure all required styling information Sample
and trims available in the package to proceed with sample making coordinator
If package or information received from marketing team is deficient; Sample

instruct data entry operator to reject sample indent and inform coordinator/
merchandiser to release fresh indent for sample making Material collector/
Merchandiser
Review BOM and explain fabric details to cutter and hand over fabric Sample
package for cutting coordinator/ Cutter
Collect cutting package and get required marking done by cutter/ Sample
supervisor and dispatch cut panel along with the pattern for printing/ coordinator/
embroidery or any special embellishment as per style requirement Supervisor/
Embroidery or
Printing unit
Collect panel back from embroidery/ printing/ embellishment and get Sample
the panel checked by supervisor/ QA or merchandiser for correctness of coordinator/ QA/
design/ color and position before completing the sewing package Supervisor/
Merchandiser/
Embroidery or
Printing unit
Hand over consolidated package to line supervisor (Pattern, Cutting, Sample

Trims, Original sample and Style file) coordinator/
Supervisor
Line supervisor to ensure QA/ Technician/ IE is called to clarify all style Floor in charge/
details before loading of style Supervisor/ QA/
Technician/ IE
Style to be loaded on line once all details are clear to the supervisor and Floor in charge/
tailor Supervisor/ Tailor
QA/ IE to audit style on line to ensure all construction detail as per QA/ IE
customer requirement and PAM comment is followed
Garment line out- Inspect the sample for correctness as per customer QA/ Finishing
requirement and PAM comment, sample found acceptable ; coordinate team
with finishing team and get the pre wash finishing done

Collect sample and dispatch for wash along with wash standard Sample
coordinator/
Washing unit
Follow up and get washed garment back from washing unit and hand Sample
over the garment to QA coordinator/
Washing unit/ QA
Coordinate with finishing team and arrange for final finishing of the QA/ Finishing
garment team
Review garment and ensure sample meets internal and external QA

customer needs as specified by buyer/ IED
Organize technician review and post review. Organize packing as per QA/ Technician/
the standard and handover package to R&D coordinator as per review Sample
sheet and original sample coordinator
Dispatch sample with DC( Delivery Challan) to merchandiser along QA/ Merchandiser
with original sample, review sheet and left over trims and accessories
Update sample dispatch information to R&D data entry operator and the Sample
operator to update entry information into sampling software coordinator/ Data
entry operator
Return left over fabric with DC to fabric stores through the fabric Sample
collector coordinator/ Fabric
collector
Return pattern package to pattern stores/ pattern department Sample

coordinator
Table 2.2: Sampling department workflow

Major functions of the sampling department
 Planning and execution of correct samples on time

 Ensuring the sample quality, construction, measurement is as per the customer
requirement
 Looking after the sample fit and overall presentation of the sample
3.3 DESIGN/ PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
This is one of the service/ support departments of the company. This department is not buyer
specific and works for all the buyers that the company caters to. The major role of this
department is to get business for the company. The design team works in two manners:
Firstly, as per the requirements and specifications of buyer and secondly, for company’s own
collection. Showrooms are there for meeting as well as presentation for new development/
line adoption to the buyers.
3.3.1 Internal Designing
The design team keeps a trained eye on the market, identifying and forecasting emerging
trends in styling, fabrication, colour, embellishments, shapes/ silhouettes and surface
treatments. This is done with the help of many sources like fashion forecasting websites,
magazines, trade journals, buyer trends, etc. The company’s designers work on two core
seasons per year as well as many “Fast Track” collections. These collections help in the
growth and development of the business as they showcase the company’s capabilities to old
as well as prospective new buyers.
3.3.2 External Designing
This department serves value to the buyers/ customers who do not have their own fully
equipped design studios. The product development department can provide such buyers with
mocks or samples which may translate into bulk production orders.
3.3.3 Show Room/ Style Vault/ Design Studio

Show rooms/ style vaults are the places where the new products developed and the bulk
samples of already delivered orders are displayed. Show room management is the technique
which has to be implemented to ensure to get a life time customer through the right
presentation in the show room. Show room is the place where the potentiality is engraved;
capability is displayed to ensure to get the life time customer.
Figure 2.1: Design studio
Functions of the design team in show room management:
 Thematic display of new products developed for buyer and season presentation
 Studio V.M/ display design and execution
 Fabric and mock display as per season/ buyer brief
3.4 PATTERN/ CAD

CAD stands for Computer Aided Design. It is one of the most important departments of
the export house, acting as a “service/ support” department for merchandising and
sampling. The working of these two departments highly depends upon CAD department.
Without CAD it is very difficult for these departments to move ahead. The CAD
department at Gokaldas is employed with skilled and specialized pattern makers, marker
makers, graders, manual cutters and coordinators. Everyone has a defined set of tasks to be
performed. The CAD department at the head office works only for sampling. In case of
bulk orders, pattern to calculate the consumption of bulk orders is given by the CAD
department at the head office and the actual patterns and markers are made at the
respective factories itself.
3.4.1 Major responsibilities of the CAD department are:

 Planning and execution of pattern on time and as efficiently as possible
 Ensure dispatch of correct TEXO (mini marker) to marketing
 Ensure dispatch of correct pattern to R&D
 Ensure dispatch of correct graded pattern to R&D/ factory
3.4.2 Software used: Gerber Technology
 Accumark Version 8.5
 Accunest
The CAD department at the head office is equipped with Plotter and Cutter machines. The
basic two types of machines are:
 Gerber plotter: This machine only plots and the cutting is done manually. Bigger
patterns with greater paper lengths can be plotted on this machine.
 Plotter and Cutter: Plotting as well as cutting is done on this type of machine;
however markers with less patterns and smaller lengths can only be plotted on this
type of machine.
Both the machines are system automated.
•
3.5 MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments.

Merchandisers act as mediators between the export house and the buyers. Merchandising
department is responsible for the costing as well. In any case, the merchandiser is the person
whose responsibility is to execute the orders perfectly as per the costing and pricing. The
function of the merchandising department begins with the sourcing for the new order or the
repeat order, and continues till the shipment deadline has met. They know what buyers want
and what the company is able to and willing to deliver. They are responsible for timely
execution of the orders. The merchandiser has become an indispensable unit in the export
cycle, managing and handling not only the follow up of the orders but the entire supply chain.
They carry out pre production planning with the help of the production manager so that the
order gets completed in a smooth and organized manner on time.
The merchandisers keep track of all the departments’ progress with their orders. They
maintain a copy of the documents from all the departments, which show the status of the

orders in those departments. The merchandisers discuss the details of the tech pack with the
QC’s and pattern masters and negotiate with the buyer if there are any changes to be done.
They get the samples made under their supervision. Placing order foe sampling fabric and
trims is also merchandiser’s responsibility after getting the approval for the same.
ERP is used at all stages from raising a purchase order to ordering trims and fabrics to follow
ups talking about the use of ERP system in the merchandising department, all the
merchandisers are given an ERP code and password which they use to access their ERP
account. Even for placing an order for trims and sampling, it has to be done through the
channel of ERP.
Department Functions
a. Communicating with the buyers
It is one of the most important functions performed by the merchandiser. From the time of
initiating the contact to making the sale, then procuring the orders, getting samples approved
and following up on production, buyer contact is maintained. The buyer has to be kept at both
pre and post shipment stages. It is because of his/her link with the buyer that the
merchandiser is synonymous as a buyer’s representative within the organization, and
similarly to the buyer he represent his own organization. Thus the success of an export
organization largely depends on the efficiency of the merchandiser’s ability to handle and
maintain buyer contact.
b. Sampling
The merchandiser has to make sure all the samples are sent on time to the buyer as per their
demand and requirements. It is the merchandisers’ responsibility to arrange all the materials
required for sampling and deliver to the sampling unit on time. After sending the samples, the
merchandiser has to follow up with the courier department and inform the buyer regarding
the details of the package so as to track the package. The merchandiser has to ensure that all
the buyer comments are incorporated once the sample has been reviewed by the buyer.
c. Costing
The most important function of the merchandising department is to calculate the total cost of
the garment. It is the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and also
negotiate the cost of production with buyer before receiving the final P.O. The costing should
be such that it suits the buyer and also the company. Initial costing is done so as to get an idea
of the likely cost to be incurred after getting the SAM of the garment, fabric consumption
from CAD, fabric price and quality from sourcing, etc. Changes are made later on according
to any changes in the styling, negotiations with the buyer, etc.
Major costs to be considered are fabric, trims, packaging, value added processes (washing,
printing, embroidery, any other), other costs (testing, sampling, courier, discounts if any),
cost of making
A cost sheet includes:
 Buyer name
 Style
 OC number
 PO reference
 Style Description
 Season
 Delivery Date
 Quantity
 SAM
 Date
 FOB price
 Currency
 Conversion Rate
 Manager and Merchant name
d. Bulk sampling
The merchandiser has to coordinate with the factory regarding the production size sets and
the pre production samples; made at the factory. The merchandiser has to ensure the samples
reach the buyer on time and follow up for the approval of the sample.
e. Bulk order processing
Once the orders are booked the merchandiser is required to follow-up on production. Because
of the level of interface between the buyer and the merchandiser, the merchandiser is best

equipped to instruct the production department about the product requirement of the buyer.
The merchandiser is also required to keep the buyer up-to-date on the status and progress of
his order through the production process through weekly updates.
f. In process inspection
As the merchandisers interface with the buyer is frequent and ongoing, it therefore becomes
the merchandiser’s responsibility to ensure the product meets with the buyer’s quality
requirement. The merchandiser is required to do random quality checks on the merchandise at
various stages of production. However, at all time he has to control quality from a
commercial viability angle.
g. Maintenance of files
A merchandiser might be handling more than one buyers or orders at once. In order to
prevent confusion and better management of work the merchandiser has to maintain separate
files at each stage for different buyers.
h. Mails
All mails to be answered point to point and the concerned marketing manager to be in CC on
the same.
i. Customer complaints
Ensuring that no customer complaint is missed out and try to resolve the complaints by
analyzing the complaint and corrective/ preventive action to be formulated.
Departmental Objectives
1. Send complete sampling packet to sampling department immediately after the

sampling indent is released.
2. Generate TNA and achieve OTP for sampling and order shipment stage.
3. Ensure all approved materials along with complete PO packet delivered on time to the
factory.
4. Clear approvals to the factory:
Fabrics/ Trims
Washing approval

Embellishments approval
Packing approval
5. Achieve customer satisfaction
6. Maintain minimum level for sort, set, sustain and safety.
3.6 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
This department set standard time of a product, thread consumption, line set up. It is majorly
responsible for factory productivity and efficiency controlling and improvement.
The IE department is majorly responsible for the calculation of the SAM (standard allowed
minutes) and thread consumption.
SAM calculation: SAM stands for standard allowed minutes. SAM or Standard Allowed
Minute is used to measure task or work content of a garment. For the estimation of cost of
making a garment SAM value plays a very important role. The SAM calculation is done at
two stages: firstly for costing purposes or during the sampling stage and secondly during final
production (so that all the changes made in the construction of the garment during the various
sampling stages can be accommodated before calculating the SAM for bulk production
stage). The SAM is calculated based on either the techpack, measurement chart or a sample
garment as given by the merchant. The SAM is calculated by the technician and accordingly
provided to the respective merchant.. In case the SAM is excess and the cost is going too high
because of high SAM, the IE technician try and simplify the garment without changing its
outer appearance. The software used for SAM calculation is Pro SMV.
How SAM is calculated: Each technician has a list of operation breakdowns for basic styles
of different garments; and also the machine to be used for that particular operation. Based on
that, the basic SAM of a garment is calculated. Any extra operations in the garment; for
example, an extra pocket, extra buttons, etc. are added separately and the final SAM of the
garment is arrived at. Also while calculating SAM; an allowance for 13-15% is added for
workers’ fatigue, etc
Thread Consumption: Thread consumption is the total meters of thread required to make a
garment covering all the operations.
A thread consumption report includes the following:

 Style
 Description of garment
 Size
 Order quantity
 Buyer
 SAM
 Date
 Technician Name
 Merchant Name
 Operation Breakdown
 Seam length in centimetres
 Stitch type
 Wastage
According to the operation and sample garment, the technician measures the seam length of
each part. The frequency of the operation is checked and multiplied with the seam length
measured. This is done on the basis of stitch type. A total of all the operations are taken for
the particular stitch type and total consumption is arrived at (in centimetres). To arrive at the
actual consumption, the total consumption is multiplied by the factor and some extra
consumption and converted into meters. Factors are the already calculated machine’s thread
consumption factors per centimetre. The wastage percentage is calculated based on the order
quantity and the SAM. There are prescribed wastage percentages for various order quantities,
numbers of machines and the SAM.
3.7 PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL (PPC)
PPC controls the planning and give the guidance from fabric to shipment. The main function
of the PPC is to create deadlines for each process and coordinate multiple activities.
Role of PPC
a. Feasibility Study: Based upon

- Type of machine
- No. of machines
- No. of processes involved
- Fabric type
- Order quantity
b. Capacity Study: Based upon
- Availability study
- Planned hours
- Machinery capacity
- Expected absenteeism and turnover
- Planned efficiency
c. Budget Planning: Based upon
- Committed delivery date
- Order quantity
d. Line Planning: Based upon
- SAM of the style
- Efficiency of the operator
- Efficiency of the line
- No. of lines in the unit
e. Unit Efficiency: Based upon
- No. of lines
- Line efficiency
- Production dates
3.8 ERP (ENTERPRISE RESOURCE PLANNING)
(WFX) World Fashion Exchange
ERP system assumes a vital role in the day to day functioning of the organization. The ERP
software used at Gokaldas Exports is WFX. It is JAVA necessary software. It attempts to
integrate all the departments and functions across the company into a single computer system
that can serve all those different department’s particular needs.
ERP is the core of all the working of the company. The structure is designed in such a
manner that it is needed at each and every level whether it is new development, production,
purchase, purchase orders, export and import of materials, etc. The software customizes the
works of different departments in such a manner that at every point when the information is

needed, it can be easily extracted by this. It is an information system which organizes each
and every entry of different styles being undertaken.
ERP is used at all stages from raising a purchase order to ordering trims and fabrics to follow
ups of styles. For example, talking about the use of ERP in merchandising department, all the
merchandisers are given an ERP code and a password which they use to access their ERP
account. Even for placing an order for trims and for sampling, it has to be done through the
channel of ERP.
The major functions for which the software is used are:
 Sample Indent
 Capacity booking (Buyer Block Booking)
 Style Creation and Techpack entry
 Cost Sheet entry
 Bill of Material
 Order Confirmation (destination, size, date)
 MRL (Materials Required List) generation

Chapter 4
PROCESS FLOW AT GEL

4. ORDER PROCESS FLOW (SOP)
Step Activity
1 Merchandiser receives the order confirmation from customer through COO/ GM/
Manager
2 Checking of order against the cost sheet and revert to the buyer in case of any
discrepancies
3 Giving the internal cost sheet to CFO to get it signed with profit grading (A, B, C)
4 All new orders should not be confirmed without CFO’s signature on the cost
sheet. If the cost sheet is under C grade (loss); it has to be signed by the CEO
before proceeding with the order
5 Garment to be digitized enabling to browse the sketch in capacity booking and in

the MRL
6 Create style in WFX and proceed with the capacity booking
7 Capacity booking to be done on the same day as order confirmation; two copies of
the same duly signed by the manager/ GM/ COO/ GM- Production & Planning to
be given for the CEO’s signature
8 Prepare T&A and also the PCD follow up chart (in excel sheet) from the red file
card data available in WFX
9 On the 10th day of capacity booking date, confirmed PCD should be given to GM-
Production & Planning
10 Prepare OC (order confirmation) file and Order Pouch (brown pouch) for each
style
11 Keep TEXO/ sewing/ embroidery/ fabric consumption chart on the left side of the
OC file, MRL at the middle of the OC file and pink slip, counter copy of indent/
trim, slip, shipment advance on the right side of the OC file
12 Also keep the buyer’s purchase order sheet, measurement chart on the left side of

the order pouch, all other relevant documents pertaining to the style- quality
swatch, colour standard, lab dips/ desk looms/ strike offs, style approval
comments, techpack, test report, etc. on the right side of the order pouch
13 Get the DFM report in place of PAM and give to R&D along with pattern/
sampling indent
14 Make pattern indent, texo requisition and send it to pattern department through
soft copy
15 Organize sampling materials through adhoc indent/ make sample indent and send
the soft copy to R&D along with trim card attached to it
16 All items to be ordered within 1 to 3 days on receipt of the order
17 Merchant should give a complete catalogue of approved fabric qualities and

colorways and all approved trims, duly signed off by marketing GM’s prior to
release of indents to sourcing department. These catalogues should have the
costed price and conversion rate clearly mentioned against each item, to facilitate
speedy processing of the indent
18 Items for which details are not available should be kept “awaited” in the MRL on
the first day of ordering material itself
19 Get the TEXO (marker) from CAD department and consult the auditor and work
out the fabric consumption, enter the same in BOM line. Consumption of trims
with running length trims to be taken from CAD technicians
20 Generate MRL (after filling all BOM lines including sampling requirement and
production remarks) and check the MRL thoroughly before sending it to auditor
for approval
21 After sending the MRL for approval, take the print out of MRL and file it in the
middle of the OC file and immediately submit the OC file, order pouch and
original sample to the auditor for checking the MRL (along with the internal cost
sheet duly signed by CEO)
22 Once the MRL is approved by auditor, indent is generated which is to be assigned

to respective person at IAD (inventory allocation department) for regular items
and to the sourcing manager for new items
23 Until catalogue is ready, marketing to give hard copies of fabric indents to IAD
together with quality swatch and color standards. IAD, in turn, after checking out
stocks, will send the same hard copy and attachments to concerned fabric
merchant. Hard copy of the indent must have the costed price and the conversion
rate clearly signed off the by COO or GM
24 On receipt of fabric indents, fabric merchants will take the indents to fabric
managers for price negotiation and delivery confirmation and the fabric managers,
in turn, will meet COO of fabric department to discuss and get his confirmation on
prices and deliveries
25 COO of fabric department to define which manager is responsible for which mill
as for imported fabrics, and same to be advised to all of sourcing and marketing
26 Trim merchants/ team leaders will take indents to COO of sourcing for sign off on
prices and deliveries
27 Sourcing coordinator to ensure all materials are ordered within the stipulated time
frame. If not ordered, reason for delay to be reported to the CEO. Also liaise with
fabrics and trims teams to ensure all materials are coming in time to meet P.O.
packets
28 Sourcing coordinators and merchandisers should maintain and update the

walkthrough chart on a daily basis
29 Review of OC file/ order status to be done along with the manager/ GM
30 Follow up for the lab dip/ desk loom/ strike off and get it approved by the buyer at
the earliest to maintain PCD
31 Send the PI to buyer and follow up for the LC
32 Make the indent for PP sampling after receiving the sampling yardage
33 Arrange lab test report for sampling and for garment (if required)

34 Make revisions in WFX if buyer makes any amends in quantity/ color/ delivery
date, etc.
35 Apart from quality/ color; merchant must check the width and shrinkage of the
shipment sample send by the fabric supplier, to avoid consumption variation at the
time of bulk garment production
36 Check with originals and approve the in house cards received from godown
37 Two weeks before the PO packet date, final confirmation of PCD must be given
again to GM- Production & Planning
38 Final approved sealer sample must be given to CAD department for sealing and to
verify the TEXO to be issued to the factory is correct in all aspects. Recheck the
consumption with auditor, in case of any changes. PO should be released with
correct consumption as per approved sealer sample
39 Issue the PO (production order) along with PO packet, after getting the approval
on final sample. PO to be issued 3-5 days before PCD (35 days before delivery
date) (All items to be ordered and cost sheet to be updated before issuing PO)
40 Get the factory allocation from HOD of the production department
41 Approval to be given to factory for fabric/ trims/ size set, etc.
42 Conduct pre- production meeting (PP meeting) at factory
43 Get the TCAR (Trims consumption approval report) and MCPR (Marker cut plan
report) through the production coordinator and verify the actual consumption with
the auditor
44 Obtain production status from factory/ from production department and update the
buyer/ buying house people
45 Give the packing approval and obtain the final inspection date
46 Inform the final inspection date to buyer’s QC well in advance in writing
47 Get the yellow slip (document for preparing shipping documents like invoice,
packing list, etc.) from production coordinator and fill the details and return back

the same to production coordinator with a copy of the buyer’s purchase order
sheet
48 Book the container/ space for the shipment (sea or air) through shipping
department
49 Follow up for the final inspection
50 Send the shipment advice to the buyer and keep a copy in the OC file along with
the pink slip
51 Provide the inspection certificate and copy of fabric test report to documentation
department if required (as per LC)
52 Coordinate in the payment follow up with documentation department
Table 4.1: SOP (Process flow) of Gokaldas

Chapter 5
ABOUT ECC1( FACTORY)

5. ABOUT EURO CLOTHING COMPANY-1
Figure 5.1: factory ECC1
Euro Clothing Co-I, No.122/1, Doddabidarukallu Village, Yeshwantpur,

Bengaluru - 560077
Karnataka - India
5.1 INTRODUCTION
Euro clothing company-1 started in partnership with GEL in year 1994 and it was established
in 2004 as a unit of GEL. It is situated in Tumkur Road, Bangalore. The unit has been set up
to manufacture categories of garments ranging from shorts to trousers to jackets to t-shirts.
The plant boasts of state-of-the-art machinery from Juki, Highlead & Sunstar, spreaders and
cutters from Gerber. The plant has the capacity to manufacture over 5000 garments per day
with 12 lines working.
On the export front it caters to countries like Australia, Canada, Europe, Japan, Mexico,
Middle East, South Africa and United States.
Threads, interlinings, buttons and other embellishments are sourced from the best suppliers
from offering customers the highest quality products.
The production line follows single piece flow system. There are a total of 12 sewing lines and
the production happens as a continuous flow of work-pieces in mass-production operations
preparing parts initially and then the parts are assembled together. The product being
assembled passes consecutively from operation to operation until completed.
5.2 LAYOUT OF THE FACTORY
ECC1 is having two main buildings and apart from that 7 small separate rooms for various
uses.
BUILDING 1:
Building 1 is used by various departments such as Conference hall, fabric store, trim store,
spreading & cutting floor, CAD room, sampling room, Embroidery section, heat press,
finishing & packaging department, QMS zero defect zone, IE department, quality
department, training room, product safety and metal contamination and metal free zone i.e.
warehouse of finished products.
BUILDING 2:
Building 2 is having 5 floors including ground floor. Ground floor, 1st , 2nd & 3rd floor are
solely dedicated to sewing department.4th floor is canteen area.
SEPARATE ROOMS:
Apart from these buildings there are separate rooms which are used for following purposes:
Officers dining room, FM/PM room, HR department, Crèche, medical room, maintenance
department & generator room.

5.3 CLIENTELE
 Puma
 Adidas
 Reebok
 Nike
 Hurley
5.4 EMPLOYEE WELFARE PROGRAMS
Various facilities and schemes have been designed to ensure the welfare of the employees of
the factory. Some of them are:
1. Training centre
2. Health centre or medical facility
3. First aid box facility
4. Ambulance facility
5. Crèche
6. Provident fund(PF)
7. ESIC Scheme (Pension Scheme)
8. Emergency exit plan and emergency exit gate
9. Parking area
Figure 5.2: Ambulance Figure 5.3: Medical centre

Figure 5.4: Crèche Figure 5.5: Emergency exit
Figure 5.6: CANTEEN AREA

Chapter 6
DEPARTMENTS AT FACTORY

6. DEPARTMENT STUDY
The different departments of the company are: IE Department, Fabric Warehouse, Trim
Warehouse, Spreading and Cutting Department, CAD Dept., Sewing Department, Finishing
Department, Metal contamination and product safety Department, Maintenance Department,
HR Department, Training Department & Quality Department.
FABRIC DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
SPREADING & CUTTING DEPT.
EMBROIDERY SECTION
HEAT TRANSFER PRINTING DEPT.
SEWING DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PRODUCT SAFETY AND METAL CONTAMINATION DEPARTMENT
WAREHOUSE
CAD DEPARTMENT
QUALITY DEPARTMENT
I.E DEPARTMENT
MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
TRAINING DEPARTMENT
H.R DEPARTMENT

6.1 FABRIC AND TRIMS STORAGE SECTION
The stores department has been segregated into two sections:
1. Trims and accessories

2. Fabric
The main functions being carried out in the stores department cater to inspection and storage.
Both inspection and storage are being same for trims as well as fabric.
Issue of Fabric and Trims
As soon as the fabric is received from the supplier a GRN (Goods receipt Note) is prepared.
The GRN consists of the following details of the fabric
 Fabric content
 Declared order quantity
 Received order quantity
 Lot no.
Other details include:
 Order reference no.

 PO no.
 Style No.
 Invoice No.
 Supplier Name and address
 Garment name
 Buyer
 Material delivery date
The GRN (Goods Receipt Note) is prepared for every lot of the fabric received from the
suppliers. Thus for a particular order there may be 3-4 GRNs depending on the number of
lots in which the fabric for that style was received by the stores department.
A similar GRN is prepared for the received trims and other accessories also. The person
responsible for the generation of the GRNs is the Store manager or the Store In-charge.

Fabric store of ECC1 is the secondary store for fabrics. From supplier fabric is stored at
central godown located at Goraguntepalya, Bengaluru. At central godown raw material for
every unit of Gokaldas is stored. Once the raw material is stocked in GI unit, the notification
is sent to the respective units.Raw material is sourced in ECC1 seven days prior to the
planned loading date.
SOP FROM ASN (ADVANCE SHIPMENT NOTE) TO RTC (READY-TO-CUT)
RESPONSIBILITY FLOW CHART DOCUMENT

DETAIL
Sourcing ASN (Advance
ASN-Online status updation from sourcing for Shipment

the details of upcoming receipts to warehouse Note)
& for the copy of packing list in advance
Keep the packaging list Update ASN for

ready in soft/Excel revisions if any w.r.t Packaging List
P.O.
Docs dept of central
warehouse Goods receipt at Warehouse
Take Documents (Loading Receipt, Bill of Entry, mill

inspection report, Commercial invoice, Packaging List
LR,BE,CI,PL
Is this Update Sourcing &

NO
for GEX revisions if any w.r.t
P.O.
YES
Update details in goods inward register
Write the inhouse card no. on invoice
GIN register
Truck Arrival

Receiving Counter Card no.
Receiving Incharge Invoice

Handover the same to the receiving incharge
Prepare the GIN, GRN and generate bar code stickers

Docs Dept. GIN,GRN
Bar Code
Send barcode stickers for application on consignment
Unload the goods
Apply barcode stickers Bar Code

Stickers
Is the goods Mention in LP

quality as copy,update info. To
per invoice NO concerned manager
YES
Sign the LR
WH manager
receiving Incharge Move the goods to quarantine area
Depending upon production priority goods are moved

Inspection dept from quarantine area to inspection area for QA
process (To start RTC process)
All inhouse fabric will be subjected to visual

inspection
NATIONALas perINSTITUTE
4 point system(10% of fabric
OF FASHION per
TECHNOLOGY 53
article/colour/invoice/Dyelot)
Visual inspection as
per buyer
acceptable criteria
Proceed with the
Pass
QA process
Fails
EAR (early alert report) is raised and addressed
to the supplier and copied to marketing and
sourcing depts.. to claim fabric at FoC
Fabric will be issued to factory only if supplier

agrees for extra fabric at FoC
In case of mendable defects like contamination,

the supplier will depute menders at his cost.
In case supplier is unable to supply FoC fabric,

equivalent amount including all losses
thereafter to be debited to supplier by a/c dept.
FoC fabric as claimed by fcty will be followed

by concerned sourcing manager for recovery
and the same closed within prod. Lead time.
Roll selection for visual inspection (as per

QMS)

Visual Inspection
Shrinkage as per AATCC, Report preparation

CSV
Report Updation in excel
Circulate report to mktg. sourcing
Swatch cutting for rest of the rolls
100% Width checking Top panel marking for cutting
Prepare width report Cutting for CSV , shade,

checking shrinkage
Report updation in excel

checking
CSV 100% Shade Shrinkage 100% as per

checking 100% actual wash method& for
checking non-wash 10% per dye lot
Mark & attach

swatches by O/L Mark & attach
swatches by O/L
Wash and check CSV,

shrinkage and shade
If ok then proceed, if not ok then take action

Update rollwise CSV, shade and shrinkage in report
Update colour code in rack ”Ready to Use”
Table 6.1: SOP of Central Fabric Godown
6.1.1 Fabric store
Once the fabric reaches ECC1 the details of fabric are checked while unloading. After
unloading rolls are shorted and stored at allocated racks based on style number and PO
number. One board is maintained to keep up the track of fabric rolls and for easy retrieval. It
is updated daily. For retrieval PO. No. and style no is searched on board to find out the
allocated rack. From allocated rack roll of required shade is taken out after matching the po
no. and style no. Average retrieval time is 1 min.
Figure 6.1: Fabric Retrieval board

Figure 6.2: Fabric store
Fabric store consists of 100 racks. Capacity of the store varies based on the diameter of rolls.
Racks are given specific numbers for identification. With each rack one bin card is attached
which contains details such as buyers name, P.O. no., style no, article no., rack no and status.
Figure 6.3: Fabric info. Display card

Status of the fabric is denoted by four different colours i.e. Green, Yellow, Red, Black. Racks
are also painted in these four colours to store the fabric status-wise.It makes it easy to
retrieve.
Green Pass
Yellow Hold
Red Reject
Black RTG
Table 6.2: Fabric status colour code Figure 6.4: Fabric status colour code
Inspection of fabric is carried-out at GI unit itself using 4 point inspection system. At ECC1
only shrinkage test is done before size set sampling. For that fabric sample of dimension of
15x15 is ironed. After ironing before and after dimension is compared and variation is noted
down. Based on the variation the marker is made and size set samples are prepared.
6.1.2 Trim store
Trim also follows the same procedures as fabric store.
RESPONSIBILITY FLOW CHART DOCUMENT

DETAIL
Sourcing ASN( Advance
ASN-Online status updation from sourcing for Shipment

the details of upcoming receipts to warehouse Note)
& for the copy of packing list in advance
Sourcing to update ASN for revisions if any w.r.t. P.O.
Goods receipt at Warehouse
Take Documents (Loading Receipt , Bill of Entry, mill

inspection report, Commercial invoice, Packaging List
Update details in goods inward register
Packaging List
Truck Arrival LR,BE,CI,PL
Receiving Counter
Check ASN,PCD for
local supplier, outstation NO
supplier accept
GIN Register
Receiving Incharge
Acknowledge reciept
Invoice
Handover the same to section incharge
Section incharge
If ASN done update If ASN not done
GIN send mail to GIN
NO
sourcing merchant
Check trims as per AQL standard

Make I/H card,give
location and get GRN Outstation supplier
done if problem in trims make I/H card send to
HO for approval
GRN
ON receipt of approvalcard quality dept. check as per
Quality Dept AQL standard
If not approved inform

If approved ready
sourcing ,after confirmation
for production
ready for production/if not
make RTP
Table 6.2: Fabric status colour code
After trims reaches the factory it is tested for product safety and metal detection is done as
per buyer’s criteria. Trim store is divides in sections such as thread section, stationary
section, packaging material section etc and for every section one person is allotted to take
care of that section. Once new trims reach record is maintained manually in register and
board is updated. Retrieval process is time taking because of the manual record keeping. It
takes up to 10 minutes for thread. Elastic rolls are unwinded and soaked in water for 4 hours
then dried before using it.
Kanban system is followed in trim store. Request for the required trim is done using kanban
trim cards by 12PM one day prior to need. One kanban bin is allocated for each line. By 4
PM trims are kept ready for each line in their respective trays in kanban racks.

Figure 6.5: TRIM APPROVAL CARDS
Figure 6.6: TRIM APPROVAL CARDS Figure 6.7: MARKER PAPER

STORAGE AREA
Figure 6.8: TRIM STORAGE AREA

6.1.3 Inspection
a) Fabric Inspection:
Shrinkage test:
 Fabric swatches are taken from each roll of a lot and tested for shrinkage
 The size of the fabric swatches cut for shrinkage test is 50cm *50 cm
 An area of 35cm*35cm is marked on the cut piece using the shrinkage test scale with
a yellow marker
 The swatches are pressed using hand iron
 After ironing, the swatches are measured again both in warp and weft direction
 The percentage difference is measured and the garment marker dimensions are added
id the difference is negative and subtracted if the difference is positive
 The differences (if any) are termed as warp and weft shrinkage for warp and weft
directions respectively.
 Negative shrinkage value represents reduction in the dimensions after ironing while
positive shrinkage value represents increase in the dimensions after ironing.
Figure 6.9: SHRINKAGE TESTING

b) Trims Inspection:
 Trims received by the centralized trims are subjected to inspection prior to for bulk
production.
 The AQL of 2.5 is the acceptance criteria.
 All trims and accessories are checked against the specific actions originally intended by
the merchandiser for the purchase in this regard. The trim card with sample representation
of the requirement is handed overlong and authentication by the merchandiser.
 On the receipts of the specific trims and accessories, a trim card is made with a sample
from the bulk and forwarded to the merchandiser. On receipt of the approval confirming
of the trim card, the inspection would connect to quantity and qualitative checks.
Trims and their Critical Points for Inspection:
Item Trims description Check Points
1. Label (main, size, a. Written Content

content) b. Colour Shades
c. Size of label
d. Seam Margin (in case of folding Label)
e. Clarity of written Content
f. Tearing Strength
2. Button (main, collar, a. Button Ligne size
decorative) b. Colour Shades
c. Print/emboss clarity
d. Colour fastness/ rubbing fastness
e. Button impact strength
f. Baking Test
g. Heat test
3. Hand Tags a. Written Content
b. Colour Shades
c. Clarity of written Content
d. Punch Position

e. Colour Fastness
4. Velcro a. Width
b. Hook
c. Shade Evenness
d. Sewing Margin
5. Zippers a. Length (4mm lock to lock)
b. Zipper Tape Shade
c. Embossing or written content
d. Zipper Run
e. Slider locking if auto lock
6. Threads a. Thread as approved
b. Shade Consistency across tubes
c. Yarn types
d. Ply count
7. Elastic/ Draw cord a. Stretch ability (elasticity %)
b. Width/ width variation/ thickness
c. Elastic- wavy/flat
d. Washed/ Unwashed
e. Secure edges/ yarn winding
8. Poly bags a. Thickness
b. Print matter content
c. Print matter rub off
d. Poly bag size
e. Poly bag self adhesiveness/ flap size
f. Perforation if any
Table 6.3: Trim’s & their critical inspection point

 First stage: 100% inspection
 Second stage: AQL 1.0 but in case of rejections Final Audit Inspection is done at AQL
2.5
 On completion of the inspection the inspector completes the relevant reports of the
inspected lot and would stamp quality assurance “Seal” identifying the lot as confirming
for consumption for bulk production.
c) Accessories Inspection
All accessories must be inspected to an approved STD. Inspection must include:
 Logo design
 Colour
 Design/shape
 Sharp points (safety)
 Length/width where applicable (i.e. zips, fasteners)
Metal Detection (MD) –accessories must be tested through a metal detector as part of the
inspection process.
 It is required that the metal buttons pass the metal detection of 1.2 mm
 100% MD for all metal accessories (including hangtags made from recycled
materials) and all type of embroidered accessories such as badges etc.
 Minimum 10% MD from each accessories' lot should be done for all the rest
accessories' type
Accessory inspections must follow AQL 1.5 in an area with adequate D65 lighting (minimum
lux 75
SAMPLE SIZE (BASED ON AQL1.5 NORMAL, LEVEL I; SOURCE: MIL

STANDARD 105E)
Load Size Sample Size Accept Reject
1-280 8 0 1
281-1200 32 1 2

1201-3200 50 2 3
3201-10000 80 3 4
10001-35000 125 5 6
Table 6.3: Trim’s & their critical inspection point
6.1.4 Documents maintained:
Documents received by stores
 Receipt Challan
 Delivery Challan
 Shade Card by the fabricator
 Test Reports of both fabric and trims by the vendor and the labs.
Documents generated by stores
 Goods Receipt Note

 Centre To Selvedge Report
 Shade Card
 Inspection Report
 Shrinkage Report
 Chillan’s For Different Departments
8.1.5 Different areas within the Store:
 Quarantine
A quarantine area must be designated in the warehouse for all goods received. Items cannot
go into the main warehouse area until they have been inspected, applicable to fabrics and
accessories.

 Goods Accepted
After passing inspection goods can be stored in the main warehouse. There must be a storage
system in place which allows items to be easily found i.e. each storage location has a
reference name/number and items are allocated specific storage location or items are stored
by PO.
 Goods Rejected
Every warehouse must have a dedicated area clearly marked ‘REJECTED’ for goods which
fail the inspection process. Each roll of fabric or box of accessories must be clearly labelled
‘REJECTED’ and stored in the rejected area.
6.2 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
At ECC1 only size set samples are prepared. One operator does all the operations. Head
office sends PO package to the factory which contains details of the style such as fabric and
trims used, tech-pack, sealed sample etc.
By reference of PO package, size-set sample is made to analyze the operations, work-aids

required etc. Size set samples are approved internally in pp meeting by comparing it with the
approved sample. After approval of size-set sample, bulk production starts.
In sampling department, master pattern is prepared which is used for inspecting cut parts,
Heat transfer stencil etc.
Sampling department consists of various types for machines required for making knitted and
woven both type of garments. Machines used in sampling department are following:
Machine Model no. Quantity
SNLS Highlead (GC188MD) 5
SNLS Juki(CP180) 2
4 thread O/L KS-037895 1

5 thread O/L SIRUBA 1
Feed Of Arm Yamato(FD-62G-RHS) 1
DNLS FDM380-L 2
3 needle Chain Stitch KANSAI(KS-041) 2
Multi needle chain stitch SIRUBA(VC00B) 1
Figure 6.10: PO. Packet Checklist
Figure 6.10: PO. Packet Checklist
6.3 EMBROIDERY SECTION

Embroidery in ECC1 is done solely for branding purpose. Brand names and logos are created
using this process. All samples required for approval are created at R&D centre.
Compatibility of fabric, interlining, threads are checked and approved during sampling.
Needle thread recommendation from supplier and standard RPM is updated wherever
applicable during proto-sampling. After that salesman sample is prepared at factory by
following updates. This sample is verified and signed off by merchants. Placement and
positioning of embroidery is reviewed.
Embroidery department of ECC1 consists of four electronic multi-head automatic embroidery

machines.
BRAND Tajima
Model no. TMFD-G620
NO. OF NEEDLES 6
NO. OF HEADS 20
There is one machine operator and framer per machine. Thread for embroidery comes from
factory trims store. Thread having 18 tex to 27 texis used for embroidery here. This is in case
silk, rayon or Lurex thread. If the thread used is of polyester then the ticket number used is of
50 ticket number and 3 plies.
 The paper used for embroidery is white non woven 40 GSM interlining.
 Stitches per inch - 95000 stitches. (highest)
 Marks on the fabric for the embroidery start and end are done by the cutting section.
 This is a 8 hours working department.
 At a time 20 needles are issued at a time from the maintenance time.
 The needle size used for embroidery varies from 8 to 11 size.
 Usually 40 needles break every day

Following are the steps for embroidery:
 Framing: For embroidery, embroidery area is fixed using a frame. For framing
purpose one wooden board is used on which position is marked using needle. Shell
and interlining are fixed together in frame. Different coloured frames are used for
different sizes to avoid mistakes.
 Pattern Feeding: Pattern is feed in the computerized system using pen drive. Control
panel is used to select the pattern.
Once the pattern is fed , threading is done and frames with fabric is fed fixing the position.
After checking everything machine starts. If thread of any needle or head breaks the machine
automatically stops. Machine operator fixes it and production resumes.
Hourly production & defects etc. are recorded. After the production is complete the pieces are
inspected as per quality standard of buyer. If quality is ok then it is sent for succession
process. If not fine then mending is done if it is mendable otherwise it is rejected.
Major embroidery defects are miss stitch, undefined boundary, less or more density,
slanted/tilted, misplaced stitch, faulty stitches etc.
6.4 HEAT PRESS
Heat press is used to permanent transfer logo or brand name on fabric in ECC1.Heat transfer
is the time taking process. There is one supervisor to look after all the heat transfer process.
Two 8 head small bed machines and 13 single head with large bed machines are there for

heat press. After cutting, cut parts are brought to this department. Stencils made by sampling
department are used for positioning of labels.
It is done by two persons. One is to tack the label and other one to operate the machine. For
tacking, operator picks the fabric and spreads it on ironing table. After that stencil is placed
on top of the fabric. Then label is placed at proper place with the help of stencil between
stencil and fabric. After that label is tacked using hand iron. Second person who is operating
the machine places the fabric on bed keeping label part on top of silicon pad to avoid bed
marks. After that fabric gets sandwiched between head and bed of machine. It is exposed to
150oC for 10 seconds at 3 kg pressure. After that fabric is removed and kept to cool down
Once it cools down the plastic of sticker is removed. If removed before cooling then it may
cause peel off and poor fixation of label.
After that it goes through 100% inspection. After inspection all panels are arranged number
wise to avoid shade variation and stocked in supermarket.

Major defects occurring in this department are bed marks, peel-off, misplaced print,
alignment problem etc. To avoid these continuous monitoring is done by supervisor & IE and
special measures are taken into account.
6.5 COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN SECTION
As the customer approaches the company with his requirements the company goes up for the
proto sample or shows the customer samples from GE collection. As per the Proto sample
developed prices are decided upon. If the buyer is convinced with the samples made, he
places an order with the company and provides the merchant with the Pattern Indent. The
pattern indent is released by the merchant and it goes to the technician who understands the
pattern details and then conducts a DFM-design for manufacturing meeting engaging the
technician himself, the merchandiser, the IE personnel, and the Brand QA.The CAD
department is divided into three sections and uses ACCUMARK for the following 3 sections:
1. Pattern making section: Making the patterns using specification sheets and then checking
their fit on virtual dummies.
2. Grading section: Generally medium size patterns are developed and they are graded up to
the required number of sizes up and down.
3. Marker making section: Markers are made keeping in mind the following factors:
 Mode of spreading
 Length of the fabric available
 Horizontal matching
 Vertical matching
 Shrinkage along warp and weft
After the patterns are done a texo is prepared. The texo demonstrates clearly the fabric
consumption per garment.

MARKER PLANNING IN GERBER PLOTTER IN CAD
PATTERN STORAGE AREA RUNNING STYLE PATTERNS
At ECC 1, cutting in-charge receives the ready patterns for each style. Arranging the patterns
in marker is done by Ms. Subha , CAD in-charge. She is responsible for making the marker
as well as printing the marker using Gerber plotter.
6.6 SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT

6.6.1 Cut order planning & Fabric issue
FR plan is reviewed and cutting is prioritized based on the PO allotment by the cutting in
charge. PPC checks for updates in the weekly FR plan, these information is present in fast
react software.
Then PO packet is verified and reviewed by the cutting in-charge. The cutting in-charge then
focuses on fabric utilization given by merchant along with PO plot and ensures cam cut %
mentioned in the fabric utilization sheet is met and the cutting ratio is followed. The cutting
in-charge updates the PO and the material received details in the Pro-cut as soon as the bale is
opened and roll issue sticker is applied on each roll. The pattern master reviews the sample,
techpack and comments and verifies the pattern, if any correction is to be done then HO of
CAD is contacted, if the pattern needs no correction then size set sample is prepared and
there is an inline quality checking during the sampling process.

Following things are checked during the quality checking process:
 Cutting is verified with the original pattern, texo, garment measurement sheet &
visual inspection is done before and after washing.
 Size set sample is then reviewed with gold seal sample. If size set sample is not
approved, then HO of CAD is contacted for correction or shrinkage amendments if
the size set sample is approved.
 PP meeting is conducted where style specific critical points are discussed and the
QAM team proceeds with the pilot run cutting. Then sewing of pilot run starts and
once the pieces are ready then all the pieces are offered for inspection to GEX QAD
or the buyer according to the brand that is being produced.
If pilot run is successful, then it is proceeded for bulk cutting after consumption approval for
bulk. Indent consumption and actual consumption is verified and in case of increase in
consumption then the reason is shown on the MCPR (database used). With shrinkage wise
patterns and proper identification marker is prepared and MCPR approval is taken. Parts list
is prepared and file is issued from CAD to CNC machine. Ratio plan is prepared and with
respect to the ratio plan marker information report is updated. Parameters mentioned on lay
sheet and plot marker are verified.
The fabric in-charge collects and prepares the fabric shade bands, CSV Blankets, Fabric
inspection report, then updates the fabric statement, the roll wise details like quantity, width,
shade along with shrinkage details. The fabric in charge verifies and confirms the roll wise
quantity and width with regards to GDN/Packing list/Invoice and updates the factory roll
number, actual width and shade. The quality check reports are reviewed by the quality
manager and issues are highlighted if any. Then the report is updated with width, CSV,
Shade, Shrinkage details to the quality manager concerned for any further instructions. The
fabrics are stored in shrinkage wise, shade wise and width wise in the racks with
identification. Fabric is relaxed for 24 hours and details on roll wise stickers are updated.
Within 6 hours of bulk is received the consumption based on actual fabric width is worked
out and MCPR is submitted for approval at HO. Lay sheet is prepared as per priority based on
Kanban request form sewing lines. They mention the roll numbers selected on the basis of
shrinkage, shade and width.Fabric rolls are issued as per details mentioned on the laysheet
and procut is updated simultaneously.Cut plan is updated in pro-cut prior to lay sheet issue

and again after laying and then marker is released. Fabric is issued for bulk based on
shrinkage/shade/width. If there is any fabric rejection, then a debit note is sent to the vendor.
6.6.2 Spreading
Before laying the pattern sizes and shrinkage mentioned on the marker should be checked
with the details mentioned on lay sheet. If there is any error in the marker, then corrective
actions are taken as per the QAM feedback. If the marker is ok then, first layer of ply is
spread and length width and other parameters are checked. If ply is not okay, then corrective
actions are taken if ply is okay then it further proceeds for the bulk layering. Excess/shortage
of lay is checked after completing every lot.
There are 4 spreading tables with 2 semi automatic Gerber spreader and 2 tables for manual
spreading. At a time 4-6 lays can be spreaded.
6.6.3 Cutting
CAD marker is placed on the ready to cut layer and visual inspection is done before and
after cutting. Marker position is checked before cutting and if it is ok then only cutting is
done. After completion of laying lay excess-shortage is checked and updated. Left over
fabrics are returned to the fabric section with identification detail on it. Single garments are
cut utilizing end bits from same shade lot. If actual quantity is matching to the supplier
quantity, then lay wash is organized as applicable. After all these steps cutting is done using
suitable machines as planned.
After cutting cut pieces are forwarded to the sorting department for segregating it size wise.
Numbering stickers are applied on the cut parts. Colour code is followed to signify the
shrinkage if any. 100% inspection is done for all the panels going for embroidery/fusing/heat
transfer/print. Sorting is done with identification tag on each cut part and moved in polybag.
All the leftover fabric are returned to the fabric store with its identification tag for the Return
to Godown process (RTG).

MANUAL SPREADING
There are total of four spreading tables and four regular cutting operators. Four straight
knives and two automated Gerber cutter are used to do the normal cutting in the factory. Re-
cutting of small parts is done on the band knife. Re-cutting area is dedicated to cut single
plies. It is done using scissors.4 round knife cutting machines are used for spreading purpose
to cut fabric after spreading 1 ply.
Cutting capacity depends on the quantity of order received by the factory for particular style
no.
GERBER MACHINE SPREADING

GERBER CUTTER
Band Knife Straight knife

MANUAL CUTTING
6.6.4 Ticketing and Bundling:
The ticketing of the cut parts is started immediately after the first lay of the fabric is spread.
Ticketing is done mainly at 3 stages:
1. Before cutting starts

2. Between cutting and bundling
3. At the time of bundling
I. As soon as the lay is spread and marker is made on the top ply of the lay, tickets are put on
each part of the marker. This sticker/ticket lists the following information about a cut part:-
a) Style no.
b) Part- sleeve/collar etc.
c) Cut no.
d) Size/Shrinkage( shrinkage is mentioned for both warp and weft)
e) Quantity/ Colour (quantity denotes the no. of parts cut out from a particular lay).

BUNDLING
TICKETING
* Note: Shade is nowhere mentioned on the sticker put at this stage
A typical sticker looks like this:
Style: T30989 Part: Sleeve
Cut No. : 5
Size/shrinkage: S 3% warp 5% weft
Qty/ Color: 210 100 White
II. After cutting, the cut parts are numbered on the basis of size as well as cut no. the
numbering is done according to cut no. starting from the smallest size cut in that cut
number.
 A numbering book is maintained to keep a record of the cut pieces.

 The format of the numbering book is as under

Date Cut no. XS S M L XL XXL 3XL S. No. Qty Total
1 75 1-75 75 75
75 76-150 75 150
75 151-225 75 225
2 89 226-314 89 314
89 315-403 89 403
89 404-492 89 492
Thus all cut parts of ‘S’ size of the 1st cut no. are numbered 1-75 followed by ‘M’ and
‘L’ as 76-150 and 151-225 respectively.
 The numbering ticket is put using a ticketing machine and it lists the no. of pieces as
well as its size. A typical numbering ticket looks like this
M- 7107
III. A third type of sticker/ticket is put just before bundling starts. In this tickets are
prepared by referring the cut plans for the shades of the pieces.
 The shades are mentioned on these bundle tickets for avoiding shade variation
problems at the time of sewing.
 The bundle ticket consists of the following details :-
a) Bundle no.
b) Ticket range
c) Bundle size ( or no. of pieces in the bundle)
d) Work order No.
e) Size
f) Part
g) Shade
h) Style No.

i) Colour
j) Cut No.
At Integra, the bundle size for each cut part for all orders has been pre-fixed to 5. Thus the
ticket range has a fixed length of 5 numbers. (E.g.: 201-205)
A typical bundle ticket looks like this :

Bundle No. TicketRange Bundle Size
Work Order No. Size Part Shade
Style No. Color Cut No.
Example: 1985 9379-9388 10
WP- 46 XL Sleeve A
T30989 100-White 52
After the bundle tickets have been put manually on each bundle, then the bundles are put in a
Kanban Bin.
-There are separate Kanban Bins for Front and Back Parts.
-Each Kanban bin holds 12 bundles.
-Each Kanban bin has a tag attached to it.

 The bundle numbers are inserted into this tag.
 The Kanban bins are placed in the cutting supermarket and transferred to the sewing
department when the need arises
Each hour cut part issue is updated in register. The register contains details such as date of
issue no. of cut part issued, total cut parts issued, balance stock in supermarket.
6.7 SEWING SECTION
Sewing department is the main and most important part of a garment manufacturing unit. It is
the place where assembly of cut parts is done to give it required shape.
ECC1 unit has 4 sewing floor having 3 batch on each floor that can be extended upto 4 batch
per floor. Each line have around 45-50 machines. The target production is around 400-500
garments per line per shift, but the average production is only around 250 garments per line
per shift. Each line comprises of basic SNLS, DNLS, FOA, SNCS, Overlock, Bartack
machines. All these machines not only reduce the SAM of a garment drastically but also
increase productivity & consistency in quality. The operator skill required becomes very low
and hence operator costs decrease as well. The main objective of this department is to
produce garments confirming to buyer’s standards in garment construction.

Sewing department is headed by production manager. Floor in-charge is responsible for line
setup. Whenever new style is loaded the sampling operator describes each operation to
designated operator and supervisor. New line setup is done with the help of line supervisor.
Maintenance department does all the machine setup, needle change, fixing of work-aids. It
takes half day. Once the machine setup is complete training of workers for new style starts. It
takes 1 full day to workers to be thorough of their work. After that production starts.
Workers are assigned to each operation using skill matrix of operators. Each line has 1 or 2
supervisor. For special machines such as bar tack, buttonhole, there is one separate
supervisor.
Raw material for next day production is stocked on sewing floor in evening. One board is
updated every hour for hourly production. On that board, each hour production target v/s
actual no. of defects occurred in that hour along with defect name is updated.
In sewing line at first parts assembly is done and after parts assembly it goes to helper table
where all parts required for further process is bundled and marking is done if required and
sent to next workstation. After each critical operation inline checking is done. After the
garment stitching is complete trimming of extra threads is done. This is the criteria for extra
thread inspection.
There are checkers & iron tables at certain distinctive places in the line which cater to quality
requirements of the buyer. After trimming it is pressed using hand iron. After ironing end line
inspection is done. At end line check point buyer criteria and how to measure is displayed
.On the basis of it inside& outside checking and measurement checking is carried out. There
is one quality bell which is used to call and inform supervisor about the quality issue and
required rework

1Water spider station is dedicated to each line. These are used to keep trims threads files,
registers necessary for the line. Left over threads and trims are stored in reused trim store area
for a month. In between if it is needed then used otherwise returned to godown.
6.8 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING SECTION
Industrial engineering department is the life blood of any industry and garment industry is no
exception. The industrial engineering department is responsible for all the factory operations.
The involvement of this department starts right from the receipt of the order from the buyer.
As soon as the customer confirms the order, the merchandising department forwards the order
details to the industrial engineering department for further processing. The CM cost (cut
make cost) is prepared based on the details provided.
This includes the following activities:
 Operational breakdown
 Determination of SAM (standard allowed minutes) for each individual operation
 Calculation of cost per machine hour
 Standard and achievable efficiencies, etc

The activities of the IE department continue once they receive the FR plan. After receiving
the FR plan they plan the whole process to be carried out inside the factory.They akeep track
of status of each order .Based on line design they suggest all necessary attachments,
guidelines and files. IE guides the production departmentduring style loading, batch setting.
The IE personnel has to constantly visit the line while the batch is set, during new style
loading and also to monitor the day to day activities. They have to ensure that the process is
running smoothly and closely monitors the flow till the first product comes out of the line.
After that, periodic checks are done for proper line balancing and for productivity
improvements. They also monitor the manpower allotment.
Based on the data collected from the line, reports are generated and the performance is
evaluated against the actual target and the results are sent to the management. The industrial
engineering department also undertakes projects for reducing waste, increasing efficiencies,
work place engineering, ergonomics improvement etc. Some R&D activities are also done to
develop tailored solutions for the prevailing problems.
The IE department\ plays one of the key roles in the garment industry. The main objective is
to:
 Analyze the sample/technical pack

 Line arrangement
The line arrangement and production capacity is achieved by work study, time study and
allowances. Thus SMV is improved. The work study is measured by method study and work
measurement. Time study is used for all the planning and control systems.
6.9 FINISHING
Finishing is done on the floor adjacent to the cutting and spreading floor. Finishing
department is divided into three different sections- i) Inline ii) Offline and iii) QMS Zero
Defect Zone. QMS Zero Defect Zone is solely dedicated to Puma due to their high quality
standards. Some of the steps of finishing is done on the sewing floor.
Following are the steps of finishing:-

a) Inside checking and thread trimming
b) Top side checking and trimming
c) Top side checking
d) Pressing
e) Presentation checking
f) Presentation
g) Measurement check point
h) Dusting
i) Folding and tagging
Finishing department has one Steam Air Finisher each for trouser and Jackets and one thread
suction machine. It consists of 13 ironing tables, 2 stain removing guns, 2 tables of dusting, 6
tables for presentation check and 2 measurement checking table.
FINISHING SECTION
6.10 QUALITY SECTION
ECC1 has an excellent in-place system for quality output. Quality audit tools like AQL 1 is
followed for Puma & Adidas and 2.5 for Nike & Hurley 4 point system is followed for fabric
checking.
ECC1 also relies on a external well equipped testing lab for the FPT (Fabric Processing Test)
& GPT (Garment Processing Test). All fabrics and garments undergo testing before mass
production. Quality checks and audits are done in the given sequence.

 Store:
 100 % Fabric Checking once the fabric is received (4 point system).
 100 % Trims Checking once the trims is received (0.1 – 0.5 AQL).
 Cutting :
 Quality check for the marker
 100% In-line checking while spreading.
 100% Checking of cut pieces before they are issued to sewing floor.
 Quality audit of cut pieces at AQL 1.5 before dispatch to numbering.
 100% quality check for Fusing
 100% Checking of pieces after embroidery.
 Sewing Lines
 Quality audit of embroidery pieces at AQL 2.5 before dispatch to bundling.
 100% Checking of Garment parts at in-line check points.
 100% Checking of Garments parts at end-line.
 Quality audit of garments at AQL 2.5 before dispatch to finishing.
 100% Checking of Garments after washing.
 Quality audit of washed garments at AQL 4.0
 Finishing and Packaging :

 100% Checking of Garments in-line while finishing
 100% Initial inspection
 100% Final inspection
 100% Measurement audit
 100% Random Audit
 Final Packing audit
 Random Checking of garments before shipment (AQL 4.0 is followed for
packing)
In addition to quality checking and auditing Integra believes in quality assurance. To achieve
good quality and keep up with their quality assurance policies Integra provides all its workers

with guidelines and instructions to keep in mind while working to produce a desired quality
level
1. Quality Assurance (Sewing):
 On the sewing floor, both inline and end- table inspection is done for 100% of the
garments.
 Rejection rate per batch
 Inline inspection: 0% instead- Recutting and rework
 End-table inspection: 2%
 Alteration rate (for both): 5%
 Manpower: 5 per batch
 4 (inline-parts)
 1 (End-line-whole
garment)
6.11 PACKING SECTION
Packing is the last stage where the

finished garment are primed,
Organized, geared up for
the shipment to the buyer, the entire
process from the way a garment will be folded to the final labelling of the cartons is
Dictated by buyer’s specifications. These instructions are standardized for a particular type of
garment and sent to the merchandiser in from of a packing manual. The merchandiser
forwards it to the packing in charge along with a top of production sample i.e. packed with
dimension approved by the buyer. This is kept as a visual reference for the packers.

PACKAGING SECTION
WAREHOUSE

7. SUPPORTING DEPARTMENTS
7.1 HUMAN RESOURCE & ADMINISTRATION SECTION
HR Department takes care of all the employee related activities like the recruitment,
selection, induction, training, remunerations, provident fund, gratuity, ESI etc. The
administration department takes care of the transportation, guest accommodation and other
industrial relation activities like dealing with the labour department, pollution control board,
municipal works etc.
Recruitment is done by walk-in interview. It is used to be in the local language. On

recruitment, the employees are to produce the documents required for the age proof, PF
nomination, gratuity nomination, ESI nomination, employable certificate & AADHAR card.
Every employee recruited will undergo induction training and initial training on the tailoring
machines. There also certain advanced training programs aimed at multi skilling the work
force.
a) Objectives:
 To maintain the personnel documents.

 To ensure employees benefits
 To recruit new staff, employees etc.
 To collect and solve employees grievances
There are 5 committees formed within the factory for welfare of workers:
• Works Committee
• Grievance Handling Committee
• Prevention Of Sexual Harassment Committee
• Environmental Health & Safety Committee
• Canteen Committee
Meeting is held once in a month for each committee by factory welfare officer. Committee members
are the workers of various departments. For safety of workers emergency evacuation drills are
conducted once in 2 months. Fire prevention & first aid safety training programme is conducted once
in 6 months.

7.2 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
This department takes care of all sorts of maintenance needs of the factory, be it machine
maintenance, utility equipment maintenance, civil maintenance or even the carpentry and
plumbing works.
Proper maintenance of machines is crucial for the successful running of the factory as any
breakdown of machines will cause delays in work, which will lead to wastage of valuable
production time. Therefore the company gives emphasis to the improvement in maintenance
activities. The factory is slowly maturing to implement TPM and has successfully
implemented autonomous maintenance in fusing department where the employees are
empowered and trained to carry out scheduled maintenance activities on their own. They are
currently introducing the same on the sewing floor as well.
There are two types of maintenance:
 Preventive maintenance
 Breakdown maintenance
1. Preventive maintenance
Regular routine maintenance that assists in reliable machine performance.
 scheduling
 daily, weekly, monthly and 6 monthly checks
 daily maintenance: SPI, outside cleaning, oil level check
 6 monthly maintenance: oil changing (if color of oil changes then also oil is
changed.
 A Preventive maintenance schedule as per attached list is being practiced.
 The preventive maintenance schedule has been prepared by referring the Engineer’s
Manual of the supplier and consultation with the Engineers of respective machine
suppliers.
 Preventive maintenance check list are fixed in each machine to ensure maintenance
schedule.
2. Breakdown maintenance
It is unanticipated maintenance activity resulting in stoppage of machine and production.It is

notified to mechanic using alarm system. There is one mechanic dedicated to each line.
Breakdown maintenance is done online & offline. . If a minor problem occurs then it is
corrected in line itself. For major problems machine is taken out of the line and maintenance
is done offline.
 Line mechanic checks the machine very often and rectifies the problem and takes
supervisor’s sign over it.
 This will be carried out by the maintenance team of the company and recorded.
 Supplier’s manual is available in the plant in case guidance is required.
 In the event of major breakdown which the company cannot handle, it will be
informed to the supplier’s service section.
 Minor adjustments, which operator can perform are listed out and the same will be
attached on the stitching machines.
Commissioning of the machines:
 All the machines are pre-set and completely assembled. As such minor adjustments
are required for commissioning.
 Installation work has been done by authorized dealers of the respective machines and
utilities.
Generator Maintenance:
Generator commissioning has been done by the authorized dealer.
 All the maintenance manuals of generator are available at the plant.

 Company has entered a service contract with authorized service agency.

Compressor Maintenance:
 Commissioning work has been done by the authorized dealer.

 Maintenance work has been carried out by the supplier.
 Company has entered a service contract with authorized service agency.
Consumables:
 Consumables mainly used are needles, knives and oils.

 These are changed either after breakage or by observing that they are blunt or
otherwise not functional.
 Needle systems used for different machines are as per attached list.
 Spare parts availability
 For single needle and double needle machines of Brother and Juki no spare parts are
kept in stock because the dealer is there in Bangalore itself and whenever a problem
arises the dealer is called for rectification and spare parts.
Spare parts replacement
Broken parts are brought to the department and the machine number is written which is
unique for every machine in the factory. The reason and rectifiers name is recorded and the
spare part is given for replacement.
New defrix no.1 colorless oil is used. When this oil changes color or turns yellowish or
reddish then it is replaced.
Needle replacement procedure:
Needle is the essential part of garment manufacturing. It is exposed at high speed and faces
heavy friction. Due to this needles bent,break or gets blunt. To change and keep track of
needle breakage there is a needle issue area. Operators or supervisor has to submit the broken
needle to issue a new one. There is a file which keeps record of needle breakage line wise.
When a needle breaks all the parts of the broken needle are collected and taped together and
then only the production starts.

Incase of missing broken needle part:
Red bin- every garment in that area are kept in a bin and passed through the needle detector.
And when the needle part is detected, then only the production starts.
CONCLUSION:
In review this internship has been an excellent and rewarding experience.In this internship
module we have learnt a lot. We have gone through various departments in this time period.
One main thing that we have learned through this internship is time management skills as
well as self-motivation. When we first started we did not think that we were going to be able
to make ourselves in an office for eight hours a day, six days a week. Once we realized what
we had to do us organized our day and work so that we were not overlapping or wasting
hours. We learned that we need to be organized and have questions ready for when it was the
correct time to get feedback.
At the end of the internship we come to know about minute details of apparel industry and
how it works. We learnt manufacturing and planning process of the industry. We gained
hands on experience on various manufacturing processes like cutting, sewing, finishing,
checking, data generation, reporting, and use of IT tools in various stages of garment
manufacturing. Under this internship schedule, all the qualified appointed people helped and
guided us in understanding and learning different aspects of the industry.


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Internship Report

Under the guidance of

Department of Fashion Technology

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 1

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 2

Thank you all for being so supportive.

(Rohit Kumar, Shalu Kumari)

Date: Department of Fashion Technology

Place: Bengaluru NIFT, Bengaluru

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 4

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 5

Figure 1.1: Head office

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 6

Company Name GOKALDAS EXPORTS LTD.

Gokaldas Exports Limited.

#16/2, Residency Road, Bangalore - 560025

Head Office Address Karnataka, INDIA

Year Established 1979

Annual Turnover USD 200 million

Total Workforce 22,500 employees as on March 31, 2016.

Table 1.1: Company profile

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 7

Figure 1.2: Founder of GEL

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 8

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 9

Figure 1.3: Chairman of GEL

Figure 1.4: MD of GEL Figure 1.5: Director of GEL

Figure 1.6: Independent directors of GEL

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 10

Figure 1.7: Awards and Accolades

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 11

“Achieve profitable growth through Innovation, Quality, Consistency and Commitment.”

1.7 CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY POLICY

 Promotion of Education: Promoting education, including special education and

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 12

 Ensuring Environmental Sustainability and ecological balance through:

 Promoting gender equality and empowering women including:

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 13

The company, as a responsible manufacturer, is committed to take adequate measures related

Some of the key initiatives taken by the company are:

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 14

 Formal suits ,Casual shirts, Formal shirts

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 15

Figure 1.9: Customers of GEL

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 16

The manufacturing units are:

Sl. No. Factory Name Location

1 JDC JD Clothing Company, No.9, Industrial Suburb Rajaji

2 AA- II Atlantic Apparels II, Plot No.28 D & E, Belawadi

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 17

4 TA- VI Triangle Apparels – VI, # 25/26, 3rd Main Road,

5 ECC- I Euro Clothing I, No.122/1, Doddabidarukallu Village,

6 ECC- II Euro Clothing Company II, T.B.Road, Srirangapatna,

7 HPF Hinduja Processing & Finishing Unit No 2, 5th Cross,

8 ICC- I International Clothing Company IV, No.180/1,

9 ICC- II International Clothing Company-II Survey No.113,

10 CCC- I Carnival Clothing Co, No.2/A-1, Chikkaveeranna Road

11 CCC- II Carnival Clothing I & III Govindapuram , Main Road,

Carnival clothing company-II, Benganur Village

12 VCC- II Venkateswara Clothing Company II, No.10, KHB, Colony

13 GG- I Global Garments I, No.17/1-38/4, Industrial Suburb,

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 18

14 GI Gokaldas India, No.21C & 21B, Survey No.34,35,36 &