Professional Documents
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Sweater
By Markie Garcia ©
Before starting My dog sweater, Know that EVERY chain 3 counts as a double
crochet UNLESS I state it doesn’t!
Ch 42. Sl st to the first chain to create a circle(be careful to not twist)
* Now working into rounds and you will NOT be turning*
Round 1: Ch 3, Dc into every stitch. Sl st to the top of the ch 3. (42)
Round 2: Ch 3, into the next stitch place Fpdc. *DC into the next stitch, into the next
stitch after, place a FPDC* repeat this all the way around. You will end with a FPDC. Sl
st to the top of the ch 3. (42)
Round 3-4: Repeat Round 2. After round 4,sl st and chain 1 and F/O to change your color
to begin the body of your dog sweater.
Round 5: Now beginning with your NEW color, Ch 3, Dc into every stitch around, Sl st
to the top of the ch 3. (42)
Round 6-8: Repeat Round 5.
Round 9 (Increasing Round): Ch 3, DC into the next 5 sts, into the next st increase by
placing 2 DC.**Dc into the next 6 sts, 2 DC** Repeat this all the way around. You will
end with an increase of 2 DC’s. Sl st to the top of the ch 3. (48)
Round 10: Ch 3, 1 Dc all the way around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3. (48)
Round 11 (Armholes): Ch 3, Dc into the next 2 sts (your chain 3 is your 1st stitch, when
you DC into the next 2 sts you should have 3 dc’s total), Ch up 10, and Sk 8 sts, DC to join
into the 8th st. Dc into the next 27 sts. Ch up 10, Sk 8 sts again. DC to join into the 8th st,
and DC into the last Dc. Sl st to the top of the ch 3. (54)
Round 12-20: *This is for round 12 specifically ----> Ch 3, Dc into every stitch. When you
come to the “Chain Bridge” where the ch 10 is, work into the actual stitches placing 1
DC. Making sure to DC into the DC to join Dc too, Keep DC until the end. Sl st to the top
of the ch 3. (54) *After round 12, round 13-20 ch 3, dc around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3.
The backside of the sweater: At the end of Round 20, F/O 3 and reattach the body color
you used for the neck, Attach your yarn to the 10th stitch from the chain 3 to the
left...YOUR CHAIN 3 WILL NOT COUNT FOR 3 ROWS (I will tell you when it will). Ch 3,
DC into the same stitch as the ch 3, DC into the next 42 sts for a total of 43 sts (you want
an odd number), leaving the remaining sts unworked, chain 3, turn your work and DC
into the very first stitch, and DC all the way to the other side,when you reach the other
side, REPEAT this until row 3. When you finish row 3, f/o. You will end on the right
side!
For row 4 : Switch back to the contrasting color that you used for the neck part of the
sweater, Make sure you start on the side you finished off at, reattach with your yarn,
and ch 3 (this will NOW COUNT), DC into the next stitch until you get to the other side.
(43)
Row 5: Ch 3 (this counts as your FIRST DC), Into the next st, FPDC. After that DC into
the next st, *FPDC INTO THE NEXT ST, DC INTO THE NEXT)* REPEAT THIS UNTIL
THE END. YOU WILL END WITH A DC. (43)
Row 6: Ch 3, Bpdc into the next stitch, Dc into the next st. *BPDC, and then DC into the
next stitch* Repeat this until the end. ALWAYS END ON A DC. (43)
Row 7: Repeat Row 5. F/O AFTER THIS ROW!
**Reattach your yarn (contrasting color), chain 1 in a corner, and SC 2-3 times in each
corner, and continue to place 1 SC around the whole sweater. When you reach the other
side and where you started, sl st to the first SC, and F/O. **
For the armholes, please visit my other videos that are similar to this to get an idea how
to do this part. Just make sure when you do this part that you have an even number
crocheted around the arms, for Example, I made sure I had 20 DC’s around to start the
ribbing.
If you need any help, please email me so I can clarify any misunderstandings. Thank
you.
-Markie