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Fashion clothing
Fashion clothing consumption: consumption
antecedents and consequences of
fashion clothing involvement
869
Aron O’Cass
Newcastle Business School, The University of Newcastle, Callaghan, Australia Received March 2002
Revised November 2002 and
October 2003
Keywords Fashion industry, Consumption, Consumer behaviour
Abstract For many years fashion clothing has been an area of interest in consumer research.
This study examines the effect of materialism and self-image product-image congruency on
consumers’ involvement in fashion clothing. It also examines purchase decision involvement,
subjective fashion knowledge and consumer confidence. Data were gathered via a self-completed
mail survey, resulting in 478 responses being returned. The results indicate that fashion clothing
involvement is significantly effected by a consumer’s degree of materialism, gender and age.
Further, it was found that fashion clothing involvement influences fashion clothing knowledge.
Finally, the results indicate that fashion clothing knowledge influences consumer confidence in
making purchase decisions about fashion.
Introduction
Many modern societies are characterised by a strongly held belief that to have is to be
(Dittmar, 1992). Related to this is the view that life’s meaning, achievement and
satisfaction is often judged in terms of what possessions have or have not been
acquired (Belk, 1985; Richins, 1994). This is related to the benefit obtained by an
individual’s relationship with their possessions. Thus, individuals often define
themselves and others in terms of their possessions. Possessions have come to serve as
key symbols for personal qualities, attachments and interests and Dittmar (1992, p.
205) has said that “an individual’s identity is influenced by the symbolic meanings of
his or her own material possessions, and the way in which s/he relates to those
possessions”. A possession that holds a significant position in society is fashion
clothing. Fashion clothing has been described as possessing something approximating
a code. Davis (1994) argued that in the context of this code that clothing styles and the
fashions that influence them over time constitute a code, however, such a code is quite
different from the codes in others areas or languages. Whilst drawing such an analogy,
Davis (1994) also identified that, in reality, it is a code that is ever shifting or in process.
Taking the notion of possessions and how individuals attach importance to them,
this study explores the relationship between consumers gender, age, level of
materialism, fashion clothing involvement and fashion knowledge as depicted in
Figure 1. It also looks at consumer confidence as a consequence of involvement in and
knowledge of fashion clothing. Overall, the study explores the view that materialism,
gender and age are important antecedents of consumer involvement in fashion clothing
and that fashion clothing involvement is an antecedent to subjective knowledge of
fashion clothing. This line of reasoning is then extended to seeing that fashion clothing European Journal of Marketing
Vol. 38 No. 7, 2004
involvement and knowledge of fashion are antecedents of consumers’ confidence in pp. 869-882
q Emerald Group Publishing Limited
making fashion clothing related decisions. Understanding the antecedents and 0309-0566
consequences of involvement in fashion clothing is important as fashion clothing DOI 10.1108/03090560410539294
EJM
38,7
870
Figure 1.
Fashion clothing
involvement antecedents
and consequences
occupies a focal position in the lives of many people and, as such, has both significant
social and economic value in many societies. The focus on fashion clothing is
significant because of both its economic value and significant social functions and
meaning it provides in consumers’ lives.
Research design
A self-administered survey was developed and administered via mail as part of a larger
study on fashion clothing, resulting in 478 surveys being gathered. Respondents came
from a random sample of consumers drawn from a database containing 6,000 names
from residents living NSW Australia. In total 1,000 names were randomly drawn from
the list provided, with every sixth name being sent a survey. The questionnaire
contained 15 items from the materialistic values measure of Richins and Dawson (1992).
Fashion clothing involvement was measured via 11 items from O’Cass’s (2000) product Fashion clothing
involvement measure. Fashion clothing knowledge was measured via Flynn and
Goldsmith (1999) four-item measure of product knowledge and decision-making
consumption
confidence was measured via three items from O’Cass (2000). All measures were six
point Likert-type scales with poles from strongly agree to strongly disagree.
The survey was pilot tested on a sample of students studying business and the results
indicated that the instrument was psychometrically sound, with all measures surpassing 875
minimum acceptable levels on all criteria (reliability, item-to-total correlations, factor
structures). During the pilot test it was determined that by providing brand names
caused some consumers to focus exclusively on the brand names and not fashion in
general. Given that the study was about fashion clothing in general and not brand names
instructions were placed into the survey identifying this point with instruction that:
When you see the term Fashion Clothing you should think of Fashion Apparel; Apparel;
Fashion Clothing; Seasonal Fashions in Clothing. This allowed respondents to developed
their own notion of fashion clothing and did not restrict the identifier to a specific brand.
Preliminary results
The exact make-up of the sample was 6.2 per cent under 21 years of age, 21-30 age
group constituted 25.8 per cent of the respondents, 31-40 group made up 36.4 per cent
of respondents, 41-50 age group were 26 per cent of respondents and the over 50 years
group constituted 5.6 per cent of the sample. Over 83 per cent of respondents were over
the age of 25 and 70 per cent were over 30 years of age, and 46.4 per cent of the sample
were male and 53.6 per cent were female. The percentages of respondents in each age
grouping approximate the Australian population fairly closely.
Before testing the hypotheses the properties of the scales were examined. The data
were initially examined for dispersion and central tendency via means, standard
deviation and skew and kurtosis, with the analysis indicating no anomalies in the data.
Following this analysis the data were factor analysed using principle components with
oblique rotation, followed by correlation and reliability estimates. The following
provides a brief overview of the preliminary analysis, before discussing the results
related to the hypothesis. All items loaded onto their appropriate factor and all factor
loadings ranged between 0.44 and 0.90. All constructs showed acceptable reliability,
with Cronbach’s alpha of 0.88 or greater. The analysis of the scales, showed that all the
multi-item measure’s factor loadings were . 0.44 and all loadings were found to be
statistically significant at p , 0:05. No cross loadings . than 0.3 were identified in the
factor analysis. The results of the analysis of the materialistic values measure
indicated that materialism possessed three factors related to possessions as defining
success; acquisition centrality and acquisition as the pursuit of happiness with factor
loadings between 0.44 and 0.75 as indicated in Table I, explaining 68 per cent of the
variance. The reliability of the materialism measure was 0.88.
The analysis of the fashion clothing involvement measure indicated that factor
loadings ranged from 0.81 to 0.91 with 75 per cent of the variance being explained. The
reliability of the measure was 0.98 indicating high reliability.
Fashion clothing knowledge contained one factor explaining 82 per cent of the
variance as indicated in Table I and factor loading between 0.86 and 0.95, and
reliability of the measure was 0.93.Consumer decision-making confidence contained
one factor explaining 91 per cent percent of the variance and factor loadings between
0.86 and 0.92, and the reliability was 0.89.
EJM Loadings
38,7
Fashion clothing involvement
Fashion clothing means a lot to me 0.81
Fashion clothing is a significant part of my life 0.87
I consider fashion clothing to be a central part of my life 0.85
876 I think about fashion clothing a lot 0.82
For me personally fashion clothing is an important product 0.88
I am interested in fashion clothing 0.85
Some individuals are completely involved with fashion clothing, attached to it,
absorbed by it. For others fashion clothing is simply not that involving.
How involved are you with fashion clothing? 0.85
Fashion clothing is important to me 0.91
I am very much involved in/with fashion clothing 0.88
I find fashion clothing a very relevant product in my life 0.89
Materialism
Factor 1. Acquisition centrality
I usually buy only the things I needa 0.87
I try to keep my life simple, as far as possessions are concerneda 0.83
The things I own aren’t all that important to mea 0.52
Buying things gives me a lot of pleasure 0.48
Factor 2. Possession as defining success
I admire people who own expensive possessions (such as homes, cars and clothes) 0.78
I don’t place much emphasis on the amount of material possessions people own as a
sign of successa 0.59
The things I own say a lot about how well I’m doing in life 0.70
I like to own things that impress people 0.72
I don’t pay much attention to the material objects people owna 0.55
I like a lot of luxury in my life 0.55
It is important to me to have really nice things (possessions) 0.64
Factor 3. Acquisition as the pursuit of happiness
I have all the things I really need to enjoy lifea 0.72
My life would be better if I owned certain things that I don’t currently havea 0.77
I’d be happier if I could afford to buy more things (possessions)a 0.75
Table I.
It sometimes bothers me quite a bit that I can’t afford to buy all the things I’d likea 0.76
Preliminary results for
constructs Note: a Indicates reverse scored items
Following this all items within each construct were then computed into composite Fashion clothing
variables to test the models. Forming composites is a generally accepted approach in
consumer behaviour to test hypotheses (see O’Cass, 2000). To assess the discriminant
consumption
validity, the arguments of Gaski (1984) were followed, which suggests that if the
correlation between two composite constructs is not higher than their respective reliability
estimate, then discriminant validity exists. The results indicated that using this criteria all
reliability estimates (Cronbach’s alpha) were greater than their correlation. 877
Following the preliminary analysis of the measures consideration was given to
appropriate analytical techniques to test the hypotheses. Given the formulation of the
hypotheses it was decided to use partial least squares (PLS) to analyse the data. PLS is
a variance based general regression technique for estimating path models involving
latent constructs simultaneously (Falk and Miller, 1992; Fornell and Cha, 1994; O’Cass,
2001). A systematic examination of a number of fit indices was used to assess the
predictive relevance of the hypotheses (model), including R 2, average variance
accounted for (AVA), regression weights and loadings (O’Cass, 2001). These indices
provide evidence for the existence of the relationships rather than definitive statistical
tests, which may be contrary to the philosophy of soft modeling (Falk and Miller, 1992).
Variance
Path due to Critical
Predicted variables Predictor variables Hypothesis weight path R2 ratio
Discussion
A major challenge facing involvement researchers lies not only in understanding
involvement itself, but also understanding the role involvement plays together with
other variables in guiding the formation of purchase and consumption patterns and
experiences of consumers of fashion clothing. This challenge suggested the need to
conduct research investigating not only involvement, but also involvement within a
broader network. This study has revealed important findings through modelling
fashion clothing involvement in a framework of related constructs as antecedents and
consequences on involvement.
This research has identified materialistic values as a significant contributor to an
individual’s involvement in fashion clothing and purchase decision involvement. Thus,
studying materialism at the individual level has permitted studying the interaction
between materialism and fashion involvement. When we talk about consumers’
involvement in fashion clothing, we view it as a continuum from total attachment (or
absorption) with fashion clothing and related activities (high involvement) to complete
detachment or automaticity (very low involvement). Fashion involvement is always
focused on a consumer’s interaction with fashion clothing as the stimulus in the
marketplace. The more fashion clothing occupies a key position in the consumer’s life,
the greater the involvement in a product such as fashion clothing.
A key question in attempting to understand consumers’ and their purchasing and
consumption related behaviour is how much do they think they know about fashion
clothing. This extends into what characteristics cause some consumers to perceive
themselves to be more knowledgeable and believe they possess high expertise and be
Limitations
The study may be limited by the generic use of fashion clothing and not brands of
clothing. The study is also limited by it country of study and focus on one state in
Australia. However, these limitations do not render the findings any less significant, but
open the way for further research in this area. It is important to examine the relationship
at the product class level before exploring if and how consumers transfer involvement
from the product to specific brands within the product class. As such now that a better
understanding of the issue of fashion clothing involvement has been obtained two
streams of research are relevant. Firstly, this issue of antecedents of involvement with
fashion could be extended to include personal values and personality traits and
consequences such as information search and time spent shopping. Secondly, the
research could be extended to focus on branding, with specific emphasis on involvement
with specific brands and what they mean to the fashion-involved consumer.
As such, the driving force and long-term goal of future research is to test the
conceptualisation of fashion clothing involvement and measures in different settings
with different fashion products and to discriminate between involvement with product
categories such as fashion clothing and specific brands within the category. This
should be done using a broader nomological network than that used in this study.
Research could focus on values, personality and status consumption tendencies and
situational variables to test involvement. Also a within subjects design seems
warranted to establish differences for different fashion and apparel formal and casual
clothing types (shoes, sunglasses, etc.) and brands.
Conclusion
The framework appears to be a valuable aid in understanding the dynamics of fashion
consumption. Such an approach can only enhance the effective utilization of consumer
EJM attachment to possessions at both a theoretical and practical level in understanding
consumer behaviour related to fashion. This is important because fashion clothing has
38,7 both important economic and social significance in many societies, particularly
Western. Interestingly, many would argue a fundamental paradox of fashion and
consumers’ strong attachment to it exists. Going so far as Dittmar (1992) did in the
context of personal identity, with its unique and autonomous nature. She commented
880 that personal identity should perhaps be independent of material context, and we are in
reality, who we are, no matter what our possessions. However, what appears to be the
case as this study shows in the context of fashion clothing, we are what we wear. In
reality, we are who our clothes allow us to be.
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