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1 to users [7e9]. Development in smart wearable systems for fibers including cellulose fiber, regenerated cellulose fiber 66
2 personalized services, especially for monitoring purposes, has (viscose), polyamide (PA) fiber, and manmade fiber (polyester) 67
3 significantly increased worldwide. And electronic textiles (e- have various advantages such as wear resistance, mildew 68
4 textiles) are relevant promoters of technological progress for resistance, easy drying, and light resistance. Cotton fiber is a 69
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sectors like biomonitoring, rehabilitation, telemedicine, tele- widely used textile fiber valued for wearing comfort, flexi-
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assistance, and sport medicine. bility, water absorptivity and air or water permeability [19]. In
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A structure that ensures flexibility to the systems are the the work of Pragya 2020, affirmed that woven exhibited su-
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9 textiles knitted, composed by knitting yarns, that are obtained perior surface conductivity than the knitted. But, concluding 74
10 from associations of natural, synthetic, mineral or artificial that fabric structural parameters comprising the type of 75
11 fibers during the spinning process. The twisted, filament, interlacement (fabric structure), pore size, crimp %, number of 76
12 single yarns knitting are an important basic element for the interlacement points, degree of warp/weft float, fabric thick- 77
13 production of different textile structures (non-woven, 2D or ness, and weight determine the resultant properties of the 78
14 3D knitted and 2D or 3D woven) [10e12], besides several of conductive fabrics [20]. 79
15 physical and chemical finishing processes as screen-printed Yarns and fibers conventional can be used to manufacture 80
16 and plasma treatment [13,14]. Knitted textiles represent a knitted where are obtained the crucial electrical characteris- 81
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smart class of substrates for fabricating microwaves, flexible tics as the permittivity and loss tangent promoting proprieties
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and telecommunication device and other devices which mechanically comparable the used in telecommunication
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20 interact with the human body, as well as, present exciting devices (E-textiles) [21,22]. Making possible to estimate the 85
21 possibilities for production of flexible circuits [15]. performance and scale of component geometry. Commer- 86
22 The knitted structures are obtained by knitting process, its cially, the circuit size has primordial importance, because 87
23 principals’ features are: better falling because smaller define: material quantity, aesthetic aspects and the power 88
24 dimensional stability, better air permeability due its porosity transmission [3e5,23]. 89
25 (tightness factor) and the fabrication process are simpler than Authors as Mukai, Yusuke, and Minyoung Suh, 2020 90
26 woven fabric [16e18]. Islam et al., 2020, declared that fiber investigated the effect of the number count in both woven and 91
27 selection is important because the knitted fabric used as a knitted fabrics suggested that structural parameters could 92
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substrate in telecommunication device and conductive ma- also be playing an additional critical role (mainly composition
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terials must have hydrophobicity. Thus, different types of of yarns). In your work was revealed that the woven fabrics
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Fig. 1 e Steps of this study.
Please cite this article as: Aquino M et al., An evaluation and characterization study of knitted fabrics for use as telecommunication
device substrate, Journal of Materials Research and Technology, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmrt.2021.04.002
JMRTEC2958_proof ■ 19 April 2021 ■ 3/9
Please cite this article as: Aquino M et al., An evaluation and characterization study of knitted fabrics for use as telecommunication
device substrate, Journal of Materials Research and Technology, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmrt.2021.04.002
JMRTEC2958_proof ■ 19 April 2021 ■ 4/9
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14 Fig. 3 e Measurement system using the method of the probe. 79
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knitted fabrics were overlapping to reach 1.5 cm, height that standard ASTM D3887 [34]. Were selected four parts with
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18 allowed obtain safe values. With the probe 020, the knitted 100 cm of length and weighted for each composition of knitted 83
19 fabrics (CO, CO þ PES, CO þ PUE and CO þ PA) were pressed fabric, after were calculated the number count with indirect 84
20 under a flat region using the impedance meter, and were system (Ne) and direct system (Tex). 85
21 calculated the permittivity and loss tangent on frequency Were described the specifications of Jersey knitted fabric 86
22 range of 0.2e4.5 GHz for each composition of knitted fabrics. because, these important parameters influence on electrical 87
23 Using the values obtained was possible to determine what properties. As the grammage (relation between relation be- 88
24 better frequency ranges to use in specified application. In tween number count, loops length, density of wales and 89
25 Fig. 3 the measurement scheme used can be exhibited. courses) favors the increase and reduction of empty spaces 90
26 (air gaps) as evidenced by the tightness factor and thickness 91
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2.4. Physical tests (exhibited in Table 2) [35]. Thus, when a smaller tightness
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factor is obtained, the larger the quantity of empty spaces (air
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The physical characterization was composed by the following gaps) present in knitted fabrics [36].
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31 tests: dimensional stability, number count, grammage, den- 96
32 sity of wales and courses, loop length, thickness, tightness 2.4.3. Tensile test in Jersey knitted fabrics 97
33 factor and tensile test. Tensile tests were performed with MESDAN's Tensolab 3000 98
34 dynamometer equipment, according ASTM D5034 standard 99
35 2.4.1. Dimensional stability [37,38]. Knitted fabrics were cut to 15 cm length and 2.5 cm 100
36 The dimensional stability is a fundamental characteristic to width for each composition (CO, CO þ PES, CO þ PUE and 101
37 choose the knitted fabrics to be used on telecommunication CO þ PA) were tested at rate of 30 cm/min and a distance 102
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device project, as it these characteristics implies directly on between claws 10 cm. From the data obtained were calculated
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size variation during the use and can provokes changes on the means and standard deviation.
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device performance. Thus, the test checks the resistance of
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42 the knitted fabrics to changes at its dimensions when they are 107
43 washed [8,30,31]. The test follows the standard ASTM D6207 3. Results and discussion 108
44 [32]. Therefore, each compositions of the knitted fabrics were 109
45 washed during time of 30 min under 60 C of temperature. To 3.1. Electrical characterization 110
46 execute this process, was used the WASHTESTER (MATHIS), 111
47 equipment that washes textiles materials under controlled From this characterization it was possible to obtain the rela- 112
48 temperature. Was analyzed the two directions of wales and tive permittivity (Er) and the loss tangents (d) of the knitted 113
49 courses on knitted fabrics. fabrics (CO, CO þ PES, CO þ PUE and CO þ PA) as shown in Figs. 114
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4 and 5 respectively.
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2.4.2. Grammage and number count
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53 The grammage test defines the relation of weight and the area, 3.1.1. Real permittivity and loss tangent 118
54 ie, results on fraction with unit (Kg/m2) using ASTM D3776 To obtain a response signal of electrical permittivity in all 119
55 standard [33]. Number count test relates the yarn length with compositions of knitted fabrics (100% Cotton, 50% Cotton/50% 120
56 its correspondent weight. The realized test follows the Polyester, 50% Cotton/50% Spandex and 50% Cotton/50% 121
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59 Table 2 e Specifications of Jersey knitted fabric this study. 124
60 Knitted Number count Grammage e GSM Wales Courses Stitch length Thickness Tightness 125
61 types (Kg/m2) (wpc) (cpc) (cm) (mm) factor 126
62 CO 47.3 ± 2.7Ne or 12.5 ± 0.7 Tex 0.17 ± 0.02 24 12 0.3 0.58 11.8 ± 2.8
127
63 CO þ PES 66.4 ± 10.4Ne or 9.0 ± 1.4 Tex 0.13 ± 0.01 16 10 0.3 0.48 10 ± 3.9 128
64 CO þ PUE 47.9 ± 8.1Ne or 12.5 ± 2.1 Tex 0.25 ± 0.03 10 9 0.3 0.8 11.8 ± 4.8 129
65 CO þ PA 49.2 ± 13.9Ne or 12.5 ± 3.5 Tex 0.13 ± 0.06 16 22 0.3 0.48 11.8 ± 3.5 130
Please cite this article as: Aquino M et al., An evaluation and characterization study of knitted fabrics for use as telecommunication
device substrate, Journal of Materials Research and Technology, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmrt.2021.04.002
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Fig. 4 e Permittivity results of the knitted fabrics studied.
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29 Polyamide) was a valuable result, because the frequency of exhibited a very similar behavior for all knitted fabric com- 94
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operation defines the field of telecommunication devices positions (CO, CO þ PES, CO þ PUE and CO þ PA). It was evident
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application. Fig. 4 shows the real permittivity variation as a that the ideal bands for the use of knitted fabrics (CO,
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function of frequency. Dielectric constants showed a similar CO þ PES, CO þ PUE and CO þ PA), due to the high values of
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34 behavior without significant discrepancy, values around real permittivity (Er) were 0.3 GHze1.3 GHz and 2.3 99
35 2.0 GHz in the IEEE 802.11b standard and pointed out varia- GHze3.6 GHz of the frequency, as well as, in the range of 1.4 100
36 tions of frequency values between 1.0 GHz and 3.0 GHz. Was GHze2.2 GHz, values significantly lower than those 101
37 possible to observe in Fig. 4 that the dielectric constants obtained by the knitted fabrics of all compositions were 102
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Fig. 5 e Results loss tangent on the knitted fabric studied.
Please cite this article as: Aquino M et al., An evaluation and characterization study of knitted fabrics for use as telecommunication
device substrate, Journal of Materials Research and Technology, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmrt.2021.04.002
JMRTEC2958_proof ■ 19 April 2021 ■ 6/9
1 number count [25]. Thus, the values of real part, loss factor 66
Table 3 e Specifications of Jersey knitted fabric this study.
2 and loss tangent (tan d) of the composition CO þ PES were 67
3 Knitted types EIr EIIr tan d 1.75 ± 0.47, 0.21 ± 0.64, 0.12 ± 0.4 and CO þ PUE were 1.74 ± 0.46 68
4 (EIr), 0.18 ± 0.61 (EII 69
CO 1.55 ± 0.53 0.56 ± 0.65 0.36 ± 0.4 r ), 0.1 ± 0.38 (tan d) respectively [24,40].
5 CO þ PES ± 0.47 0.21 ± 0.12 ± 0.4 70
1.75 0.64 Knitted fabrics of CO þ PES and CO þ PUE have a high electric
6 CO þ PUE 1.74 ± 0.46 0.18 ± 0.61 0.1 ± 0.38 71
permittivity, because, electric permittivity (Er) this textile
7 CO þ PA 1.57 ± 0.48 0.34 ± 0.6 0.22 ± 0.39 72
materials determines that the amount of stored energy pro-
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9 motes the electric length increases which facilitates the size 74
10 reduction of the telecommunication device (miniaturization) 75
exhibited (Er approximately equal to 1). These relatively low
11 values of dielectric constants show the high porosity rates
as observed in Figs. 4 and 5 and Table 2 [40]. In Fig. 5 was 76
12 observed a characteristic increase in loss tangent (tan d) for all 77
presented by knitted fabrics, due to the portion of CO (cotton)
13 knitted fabrics compositions at high frequencies, with all 78
in each knitted fabrics and the variations of grammage to
14 peaks at 1.75 GHz followed by a reduction. 79
15 compensate the action of portion synthetics fibers in electrical 80
Considering that the ideal loss tangent is equal to zero,
16 properties [25,37]. Thus, each composition of knitted fabrics 81
were observed in Table 3 that the loss tangents from all
17 (CO, CO þ PES, CO þ PUE and CO þ PA) exhibited bands, fre- 82
knitted fabrics (CO, CO þ PES, CO þ PUE and CO þ PA) were
18 quency and real permittivity ideas for application in primary 83
low (2.45 GHz), even when compared with other knitted
19 and secondary mobile services, and aeronautical radio- 84
20 fabrics of authors as de Holanda, Samanta M., et al., 2017, 85
navigation and broadcasting.
21 Aquino, Marcos S., et al., 2019 [25,40]. Thus, the knitted fab- 86
However, in terms of miniaturization and knowing that the
22 rics compositions with the more potential in terms of appli- 87
majority of installations of microwave power are at ISM (In-
23 cation were the CO þ PES and CO þ PUE, which presented the 88
dustrial Scientific and Medical) frequencies, mainly at
24 lowest values of loss tangents (tan d) at 2.45 GHz as shown in 89
2.45 GHz with some at 915 MHz (0.915 GHz) and a few at
25 Fig. 5. Finally, among the existing frequencies within the ISM 90
433 MHz (0.433 GHz) [39]. The knitted fabrics CO þ PES (50%
26 band, the frequency of 2.45 GHz is the most widely used in 91
27 cotton/50% polyester) and CO þ PUE (50% cotton/50% spandex) 92
wireless communication systems (Wi-Fi, Bluetooth etc.),
28 were the compositions that exhibited significantly higher 93
enabling for several applications the knitted fabrics as sub-
29 performance in terms of miniaturization of telecommunica- 94
strate in telecommunications device, because operates at
30 tion devices compared to the others (CO and CO þ PA), 95
this frequency [40].
31 because significantly higher values of the real part (EIr) were 96
32 obtained than the loss factor (EII r ) of the permittivity at
97
33 2.45 GHz as shown in Table 2. The knitted fabrics of CO and 3.2. Physical tests 98
34 CO þ PA exhibited similar behavior and lower electrical per- 99
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formance (low real part, high loss factor and high loss tangent) 3.2.1. Dimensional stability
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at 2.45 GHz due to low permittivity values, because of the Knitted fabrics are considered to have good dimensional sta-
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38 grammage and due to the mainly fibers composition and bility (changes in the width and axial dimensions) if they 103
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55 Fig. 6 e Dimensional stability on both directions: (a), wales and (b),courses. 120
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58 Table 4 e Tensile test results on wales direction and courses direction. 123
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60 Knitted types Stress (MPa) Strain MOE (GPa) 125
61 Wales Courses Wales Courses Wales Courses 126
62 CO 446.4 ± 2.4 663.2 ± 3.1 1.2 ± 0.1 1.1 ± 0.08 0.4 ± 0.01 0.4 ± 0.01
127
63 CO þ PES 494.9 ± 3 476 ± 2.1 0.8 ± 0.02 1.8 ± 0.3 0.6 ± 0.1 0.3 ± 0.02 128
64 CO þ PUE 1293.6 ± 7.6 580.8 ± 1.3 1.5 ± 0.2 4 ± 0.7 0.8 ± 0.015 0.1 ± 0.002 129
65 CO þ PA 510.5 ± 0.5 1659.5 ± 6.3 0.7 ± 0.01 2.9 ± 0.2 0.7 ± 0.04 0.6 ± 0.03 130
Please cite this article as: Aquino M et al., An evaluation and characterization study of knitted fabrics for use as telecommunication
device substrate, Journal of Materials Research and Technology, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmrt.2021.04.002
JMRTEC2958_proof ■ 19 April 2021 ■ 7/9
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Table 5 e Summary of electrical, physical and tensile properties in studied Jersey knitted fabrics. Q1
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3 Tests Parameters CO CO + PES CO + PUE CO + PA 68
4 Electrical Frequency (2.45 GHz) EIr 1.55 ± 0.53 1.75 ± 0.47 1.74 ± 0.46 1.57 ± 0.48 69
5 EIIr 0.56 ± 0.65 0.21 ± 0.64 0.18 ± 0.61 0.34 ± 0.6 70
6 tan d 0.36 ± 0.4 0.12 ± 0.4 0.1 ± 0.38 0.22 ± 0.39 71
7 Physical Number count (Ne and Tex) 47.3 ± 2.7Ne 66.4 ± 10.4 N 47.9 ± 8.1Ne 49.2 ± 13.9 N 72
8 12.5 ± 0.7 Tex 9.0 ± 1.4 Tex 12.5 ± 2.1 Tex 12.5 ± 3.5 Tex 73
9 Loop length (cm) 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 74
10 Density of wales (wpc) 24 16 10 16 75
11 Density of courses (cpc) 12 10 9 22 76
12 Grammage (Kg/m2) 0.17 ± 0.02 0.13 ± 0.01 0.25 ± 0.03 0.13 ± 0.06 77
13 Thickness (mm) 0.58 0.48 0.8 0.48 78
14 Tightness factor 11.8 ± 2.8 10 ± 3.9 11.8 ± 4.8 11.8 ± 3.5 79
15 Dimensional stability (%) Wales 0 7 17 5 80
16 Courses 10 0 5 5 81
17 Tensile Stress (MPa) Wales 446.4 ± 2.4 494.9 ± 3 1293.6 ± 7.6 510.5 ± 0.5 82
Courses 663.2 ± 3.1 476 ± 2.1 580.8 ± 1.3 1659.5 ± 6.3
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Strain Wales 1.2 ± 0.1 0.8 ± 0.02 1.5 ± 0.2 0.7 ± 0.01
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Courses 1.1 ± 0.08 1.8 ± 0.3 4 ± 0.7 2.9 ± 0.2
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MOE (GPa) Wales 0.4 ± 0.01 0.6 ± 0.1 0.8 ± 0.015 0.7 ± 0.04
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Courses 0.4 ± 0.01 0.3 ± 0.02 0.1 ± 0.002 0.6 ± 0.03
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24 resist permanent deformation during use and during washing potential use as a substrate for a telecommunication device as 89
25 and dry-cleaning [41,42]. However, evaluating if remains un- shown in Table 5. Which exhibited the values of stress and 90
26 changed during the use and/or provokes changes on tele- MOE in wales direction, CO (446.4 ± 2.4), CO þ PES (494.9 ± 3), 91
27 communication device performance. The values obtained CO þ PUE (1293.6 ± 7.6) and CO þ PA (510.5 ± 0.5). On the other 92
28 from dimensional stability can be positive (þ) when there is an hand, CO exhibited stress significantly lower than the other 93
29 increase or negative () when there are usually reductions in knitted fabrics (CO þ PES, CO þ PUE and CO þ PA), but with 94
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both dimensions of the knitted fabrics. As observed in the high regularity in the values of mechanical properties char-
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study by Ahmed Asif et al., 2013, the Jersey knitted fabrics acterizing by standard deviation low [18].
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33 composed of 100% cotton have negative dimensional stability While, CO þ PUE exhibited a standard deviation signifi- 98
34 or reductions in both dimensions of the knitted fabrics [43]. cantly higher compared to others (CO, CO þ PES and CO þ PA), 99
35 Therefore, CO knitted fabrics were softer, good dimensional but with high irregularity in the values of obtained mechanical 100
36 stability and improve humidity absorption [16,44]. Knitted properties. While, the values of stress and MOE in courses 101
37 fabrics of 50% cotton/50% polyester (CO þ PES) and 50% cotton direction, CO (663.2 ± 3.1), CO þ PES (476 ± 2.1), CO þ PUE 102
38 and 50% polyamide (CO þ PA) had better percentages of (580.8 ± 1.3) and CO þ PA (1659.5 ± 6.3), were different. This is 103
39 dimensional stability compared to other knitted fabrics (CO because knitted fabrics are an anisotropic structure and when 104
40 and CO þ PUE) as shown in Fig. 6. While Jersey knitted fabrics the force is applied in the vertical direction the loops slide and 105
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manufactured with 50% cotton/50% spandex (CO þ PUE) in the horizontal direction the head and foot of the loops
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exhibited significantly weak percentages of dimensional sta- restrict the deformation of the knitted fabrics 4 [18]. When
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bility for application as a substrate based on knitted fabrics in strain values were compared in terms of mechanical proper-
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45 telecommunication device compared to CO knitted fabrics ties it was observed that CO þ PUE in wales direction (1.5 ± 0.2) 110
46 [45]. However, Jersey knitted fabrics with 50% cotton/50% and courses (4 ± 0.7) exhibited high values compared to knit- 111
47 polyamide (CO þ PA) obtained larger or excellent dimensional ted fabrics studied (CO, CO þ PES and CO þ PA). 112
48 stability which is the ideal for this purpose (telecommunica- 113
49 tion device), since CO þ PA knitted fabrics will resist and/or 114
50 remain unchanged when subjected to deformations caused by 4. Conclusions 115
51 the conditions of use, as well as during the washing and 116
52 drying of the telecommunication device based on textile Relatively low values of dielectric constants show the high 117
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substrates. The CO þ PA knitted fabrics (50% cotton and 50% porosity rates presented by knitted fabrics, due to the portion
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polyamide) had better dimensional stability than the others of CO (cotton) in each knitted fabrics and the variations of
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56 knitted fabrics (CO, CO þ PES and CO þ PUE). This was due to grammage to compensate the action of portion synthetics fi- 121
57 the polyamide (excellent dimensional stability) present in the bers in electrical properties. Dielectric constants showed a 122
58 blend (CO þ PA) exhibit characteristics intrinsic to this type of similar behavior without significant discrepancy, values 123
59 fiber as high resistance of external factors (good chemical around 2.0 GHz in the IEEE 802.11 b standard and pointed out 124
60 resistance) and temperature (low creep at elevated tempera- variations of frequency values between 1.0 GHz and 3.0 GHz 125
61 tures) [16,44]. the ideal bands for the use of knitted fabrics (CO, CO þ PES, 126
62 CO þ PUE and CO þ PA), due to the high values of real 127
63 3.2.2. Tensile tests permittivity were 0.3 GHze1.3 GHz and 2.3 GHze3.6 GHz of the 128
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The results obtained in Table 4 showed that the mechanical frequency, as well as, in the range of 1.4 GHze2.2 GHz. Knitted
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behavior (stress, strain and MOE) of knitted fabrics with fabrics of CO þ PES and CO þ PUE have a high electric
Please cite this article as: Aquino M et al., An evaluation and characterization study of knitted fabrics for use as telecommunication
device substrate, Journal of Materials Research and Technology, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmrt.2021.04.002
JMRTEC2958_proof ■ 19 April 2021 ■ 8/9
1 permittivity, because, electric permittivity this textile mate- [8] Koski K, Sydanheimo L, Rahmat-Samii Y, Ukkonen L. 66
2 rials determines that the amount of stored energy promotes Fundamental characteristics of electro-textiles in wearable 67
3 the electric length increases which facilitates the size reduc- UHF RFID patch antennas for body-centric sensing systems. 68
4 tion of the telecommunication device (miniaturization). Thus,
IEEE Trans Antenn Propag 2014;62:6454e62. https://doi.org/ 69
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the knitted fabrics compositions with the more potential in [9] Manzari S, Occhiuzzi C, Marrocco G. Feasibility of body-
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2.45 GHz. Jersey knitted fabrics manufactured with 50% cot- MAP.2012.6309156.
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ton/50% spandex (CO þ PUE) exhibited significantly weak [10] Sennewald C, Hoffmann G, Kleicke R. Woven semi-finished
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11 percentages of dimensional stability for application as a sub- 76
Constr.. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg; 2016.
12 strate based on knitted fabrics in telecommunication device 77
p. 159e211. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-46341-3_5.
13 compared to CO knitted fabrics. Jersey knitted fabrics with [11] Lehmann B, Herzberg C. Yarn constructions and yarn
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14 50% cotton/50% polyamide (CO þ PA) obtained larger or formation techniques. Text. Mater. Light. Constr.. Berlin, 79
15 excellent dimensional stability which is the ideal for this Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg; 2016. p. 103e57. 80
16 purpose (telecommunication device), since CO þ PA knitted https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-46341-3_4. 81
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fabrics will resist and/or remain unchanged when subjected to
18 knitting techniques. Text. Mater. Light. Constr.. Berlin, 83
deformations caused by the conditions of use, as well as
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Declaration of Competing Interest
24 2000722. 89
25 [14] Hund H, Hund R-D. Textile finishing and finishing 90
26 The authors declare that they have no known competing technologies. Text. Mater. Light. Constr.. Berlin, Heidelberg: 91
27 financial interests or personal relationships that could have Springer Berlin Heidelberg; 2016. p. 427e77. https://doi.org/ 92
28 appeared to influence the work reported in this paper. 10.1007/978-3-662-46341-3_13. 93
[15] Mukherjee PK. Dielectric properties in textile materials: a
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Please cite this article as: Aquino M et al., An evaluation and characterization study of knitted fabrics for use as telecommunication
device substrate, Journal of Materials Research and Technology, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmrt.2021.04.002