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Textile Material Knowledge Series
Textile Material Knowledge Series
WOVEN FABRICS
Fabrics are made of yarns by weaving them in different combinations. It is mostly
done by interlacing two sets of yarn or thread made of fibers called the warp and
weft of the loom. It only stretches in the bias directions, between the warp and weft
directions, unless the threads are elastic.
Lengthwise stronger vertical yarns with more twist are Warp or Picks while widthwise
filling yarns are termed as weft or ends. Sidewise edge of fabric is termed as
Selvedge.
THREE BASIC WEAVES
There are three main types of weave: Plain, Twill and Satin
Plain weave is a basic weave which is made when the thread is woven on one up and
one down principle, some plain weave fabrics are Chambray, Chiffon, Gingham, and
Organza etc.
Twill weave is made when the thread is placed by varying the order of interlacing the
yarns so that diagonal parallel lines are produced across the fabric.
Satin Weave is a weave made when each warp yarn floats over four filling yarns and
interlaces with fifth filling yarn.
Knitted Fabrics
Knitting is the process of construction of a fabric by interlocking loops of yarn by
means of hooked needles. Knitted fabric consists of horizontal rows known as courses
and vertical columns of loops known as Wales. Knitted fabrics are porous having
insulated air pockets giving warmth when worn. Knitted fabrics are very absorbent,
wrinkle resistant and lightweight. They shrink more than woven fabrics unless shrink-
proofing techniques are used.
Plain or Purl Knit Stitch can be produced in flat knit, tubular, or circular forms.
Basic knit stitch is a plain stitch while Purl is basically reverse of a basic plain knit
stitch. This plain flat knit is also called jersey stitch. Knit stitch (technical face) is a V-
shaped appearance where the shanks are above and the feet are below the head of
preceding stitch. Purl stitch (the technical back) is of the semi circle appearance
where the legs are below, and the feet are above the head of preceding stitch. The
loops form vertical rows, also called Wales, on the fabric face, giving it a sheen, and
crosswise rows, also called courses on the back.
Tuck stitch
Tuck stitch, is a knit stitch which creates an open space in the fabric. It is made when Purl stitch
a needle rises to take a new loop without casting the old. It consists of a held loop
and a tuck loop both of which are intermeshed in the same course. A tuck loop
always faces the technical back of the knitted structure.
Missed stitch
Missed- stitch or Float stitch is so called as it produces a float of yarn on the fabric's
wrong side. Also termed as a miss stitch as it is a length of yarn not received by a
needle and connecting two loops of the same course that are not adjacent wales.
Tuck stitch
Missed stitch
Fabric – Warp Knit Fabrics
WARP KNIT
Can be defined when structural threads of fabric running along the length of fabric
approximately parallel to selvedge. One horizontal row of loops is made from many
threads. It is not easy to unravel like weft knit. Not as elastic as weft knits. Some
examples of warp knitted fabrics are Tricot and Raschel,
NON WOVEN FABRIC (Bonded or Laminated) is a fabric like material made from long fibers, bonded
together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile industry to
denote fabrics, such as felt which are neither woven nor knitted. Non woven fabric materials typically lack
strength unless reinforced by a backing. Non woven are typically made by putting small fibers together in
the form of a sheet or web and then binding them either mechanically with an adhesive or thermally by
applying binder.
Fabric manufacturing
Stages of dyeing Features and advantages Limitations and disadvantages Typical dyed fabrics
Abrasion Resistance Good Fair Fair Fair Poor Fair Fair Excellent Good Good
Absorbency 8.50% 12% 13.50% 11% 6.50% 11% 1.50% 2.8-4.8% 0.40% 15%
Flexibility Fair Poor Good Excellent Excellent Good Good Good Fair Good
% Elongation at
Break 3.0-10 3 20-40 20 25-45 15-30 35-45 16-75 19-55 400-700
% Recovery 75 65 99 90 48-65 95 92 82-100 81 99
Environment
Mildew Resistance Poor Fair Good Good Excellent Fair Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent
Renovation(Wash / W or
Dryclean) DC W or DC DC W or DC DC W or DC W or DC W or DC W or DC W or DC
Safe Ironing Limit (F) 400 450 300 300 325 350 300 350 325 300
Sunlight Resistance Fair Good Good Poor Good Fair Excellent Poor Good Fair
Handfeel Good Fair Excellent Excellent Excellent Good Good Fair Fair Poor
Pilling Resistance Good Good Fair Good Good Good Fair Poor Very Poor Excellent
Resiliency Poor Poor Good Fair Fair Poor Good Good Excellent Excellent
Specific Gravity 1.54 1.52 1.32 1.3 1.32 1.48-1.54 1.14-1.19 1.14 1.38 1.21
Static Resistance Good Good Fair Fair Fair Good Poor Poor Very Poor Excellent
Very
Dry Strengh Good Excellent Poor Good Poor Poor-Good Fair Excellent Excellent Poor
Strengh Loss when
wet 10% 10% 20% 15% 30% 30-50% 20% 10% 0 0
Construction explanation
Basic difference between FULLY FASHIONED and CUT & SEW knits
Fully Fashioned Knits are made from panels that are shaped during the process of
knitting after which they are sewn together. Fully-fashioned knits are used for high
quality knits. Pullovers and Sweater are fully fashioned knits.
Cut & Sew Knits are made of flat panels which are cut from pre-knit fabric which are
sewn together in the end. The seams in these knit fabrics tend to be bulkier than the
ones in full-fashioned knits. T shirts, sweat shirts and baby suits are examples of cut
and sew knits.