Pondicherry – Architecture in the

French Quarter
Posted by S LO W P OK E  on 10TH JA N 2015
The coastal town of Pondicherry, India amongst other things, is also famous for
the Colonial French and Franco-Tamil architecture of some its buildings.

An example of engaged columns as above.  Grey and white coloured buildings in

Pondicherry are owned by the Aurobindo Ashram.
This post discusses the colonial French architecture which is predominantly seen in
a  precinct now known as White Town and was also known as the French
Quarter in much earlier times.

Tourist map of the Tamil and French Quarters of Pondicherry

White Town is located east of the canals between Ambour Salai/Gingee Salai
(green line in the map) and the bay. It is located in the bottom portion of the map.

The rear portion of the Governor’s house. It once housed the French Governor too.
The portion on the other side of the canal is the Tamil Quarter which encompasses
the popular and busy Mission Street (pink line) and the houses in this quarter are
symbolic of the Franco-Tamil and traditional Tamil architecture
respectively. Creole architecture might be a loosely appropriate term for it.

St Louis Street, White Town, Pondicherry

White Town is known for it’s colonial styled villas with big compound walls and
stately doors.
Opposite The Indian Kaffe Express, Dumas St.
The colours used for the structures here are primarily sun burnt yellow, peach or
white.

Pondicherry during Christmas is delightful.

This quarter has a grid layout with absolutely perpendicular roads which have now
become somewhat of a problem because of the increased traffic due to the tourist
influx. Access to the Promenade besides the sea is also through this part of town
thereby increasing traffic density.
St Gille’s Street
The Promenade is Pondicherry’s only sea facing boulevard with an artificially
created sand strip and lined up by a rock armour to protect the shoreline. Various
types of works are going on to beautify this strip.

Romain Rolland St. The yellow building is Gratitude, a restored colonial home.
So on many evenings and weekends, the influx of people increases by leaps and
bounds.
An Indian motif to ward off the evil eye. Try reading the name plate on the door.
The hospital, park, schools and government buildings in the same area  add to the
confusion.

Pondicher
ry architecture and its unique doors, White Town. Note the rain shade for the door
bell.
The French styled architecture is suited for this town because of the salubrious
weather with its long and huge windows with vertical cast iron bars as grills, ornate
balconies, large courtyards, circular arched gates, columns, engaged columns and
stucco designs.
 Near the intersection of Romain Rolland and
Bussy St.
The colonial French architecture may have been greatly influenced by the British
who were administering the town of Madras (Chennai) and surrounding areas and
the initial workers commissioned to work in this part of Pondicherry may have
been drawn from the workforce who had experience in building the colonial
structures of the East India Company located in Madras.
A tourist walks along the houses near the Southern Boulevard Road
A very significant difference between the houses in the French Quarter and the
Tamil Quarter is that the houses built in the Tamil style are much more friendly
towards visitors. With their inviting verandahs they make a traveller comfortable in
seeking refuge or rest.

The rear side of the Aurobindo Ashram.

The French styled houses are much more imposing and the high compound walls
make sure that personal and social lives of the inhabitants inside remain private.
While INTACH, Pondicherry has restored quite a few buildings, there are also a
few VMF (Vieilles Maisons Francaises) awarded houses in White Town. The
VMF plaque can be seen prominently on such houses. VMF is a French
organisation which works towards restoration and conservation of French
architecture across the world.
 Graffiti on a
Pondicherry house.
The influence of the French culture can also be seen in street art around the town
and in the decor of most houses. Much of the decor has a unique Franco-Tamil
influence.

The
French Consulate, Pondicherry.
The French may have left in the early 1950’s but the heritage though partly
crumbling and becoming greatly commercial, remains.
Near the intersection of Romain Rolland and Bussy St.
The colonial French architecture may have been greatly influenced by the British
who were administering the town of Madras (Chennai) and surrounding areas and
the initial workers commissioned to work in this part of Pondicherry may have
been drawn from the workforce who had experience in building the colonial
structures of the East India Company located in Madras.

A tourist walks along the houses near the Southern Boulevard Road
A very significant difference between the houses in the French Quarter and the
Tamil Quarter is that the houses built in the Tamil style are much more friendly
towards visitors. With their inviting verandahs they make a traveller comfortable in
seeking refuge or rest.
The rear side of the Aurobindo Ashram.
The French styled houses are much more imposing and the high compound walls
make sure that personal and social lives of the inhabitants inside remain private.
While INTACH, Pondicherry has restored quite a few buildings, there are also a
few VMF (Vieilles Maisons Francaises) awarded houses in White Town. The
VMF plaque can be seen prominently on such houses. VMF is a French
organisation which works towards restoration and conservation of French
architecture across the world.
Graffiti on a Pondicherry house.
The influence of the French culture can also be seen in street art around the town
and in the decor of most houses. Much of the decor has a unique Franco-Tamil
influence.
The French Consulate, Pondicherry.
The French may have left in the early 1950’s but the heritage though partly
crumbling and becoming greatly commercial, remains.