9th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles

October 07th to 10th 2018, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

DESIGNING OF FASHION COLLECTION INSPIRED BY CULTURAL

HERITAGE – METHODOLOGY AND RESULTS OF A PROJECT WORK

Edit CSANÁK

Abstract: In this article author reports about the results of a project work realized at the Óbuda University in
Budapest (Hungary) in cooperation with Serbian students, who participated in Erasmus+ student exchange
program based on bilateral agreement between the Óbuda University Sándor Rejtő Faculty of Light Industry
and Environmental Engineering, Institute of Product Design (Budapest, Hungary) and Technical Faculty
“Mihajlo Pupin” Department of Clothing Engineering (Zrenjanin, Serbia). It informs about the methodology of a
project work which goal was to fulfill the content of the regularly scheduled, and popular course with topics
suited to a larger group of students. The base assignment to the students was to make a research on specific
areas establishing the requirements and framing the design concept of a multi-capsuled fashion collection,
organizing the labor in teamwork and to elaborate results in a thesis. Specific requirements of the project
helped the student integration and maintained the student solidarity, making their stay exciting and enjoyable.
Students gained knowledge in collection development and experiences important for future professional life.

Within this assignment was necessary to distribute and allocate the responsibilities of 8 team members. The
author reports about stages of this multifaceted mission introducing the methodology of the project, and
organization of the practical work with the students.

Keywords: fashion design, fashion collection, team management, organization

1. Introduction

Designing a fashion collection is a challenge full of exciting tasks. Organization work phases – such as
collecting the source material, designing the product range, pre-production, patterning and sampling process,
presentation of the ready samples and elaboration of the results – is a multifaceted mission that needs multi-
faced, talented persons. Designers are usually marked to be talented. Talent is described as a 'complex,
unequivocally defined property group that is most capable of performing a socially useful activity at a higher
level than average' [1] Degree of this natural ability – to be good at something, especially without being taught
– varies: its quality is a unique combination of mental (often athletic, creative, or artistic) aptitude; a special
mixture of visual, perceptual, manual, organizational and communicative (verbal and written) skills, and
operational capabilities.

Participants of the project introduced in this article were students on exchange from the Technical Faculty
“Mihajlo Pupin” Department of Clothing Engineering from Zrenjanin (Serbia). Tutor of the below-introduced
project work was Dr. Edit Csanák (DLA), Senior Lecturer at the Institute of Product Design.

2. Methodology of realisation of the project work

Projects provide an excellent platform for personal development on many levels and can stimulate team
working, problem solving, self-esteem and confidence of the student. Respect for themselves and the
environment, as well as a huge sense of achievement, play important role in the methodology of the course.
Óbuda University Sándor Rejtő Faculty of Light Industry and Environmental Engineering has successfully
developed the content of an 8 credit course 'Project Work', which is commonly offered and chosen by the
incoming students. Projects can be set up in different fields: Textile-, Garments, Paper-, or Printing design and
technology, but also in Marketing, Quality and Environmental management, Environmental engineering.
Project works could be various:

- Making leaflets/posters, booklets or website with information on different topics;

- Design, or product of plans, portfolio for fabrics, garment, leather goods;
- Fashion product or collection;
- Methods, analyses, technology research at diverse fields of technical sciences, field of art and design.

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 9th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2018, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

According to the general education goal, the project must enable the student independently to carry out project
work comprehending experimental, empirical, and/or theoretical investigation of one or more ways of
presenting problems within central subjects of the student education. [1] Topics of the practice work with terms
and description of the tasks are usually detailed in form of a ‘4 point schedule’ – in line with the general
methodology of product design and product development. [1] (Table 1)

Table 1: General topics of the practice work with terms and description

Week Topic with a brief description:

1-3 Confirming of the thematic for project work and scheduling with the tutor
4-7 Background research
8-12 Problem solving (collecting ideas and creating something)
Making of a presentation about the project work in front of the group with the introduction of the
13-14
readymade product (if available).

2.1 Advanced methodology of the Project work ‘Designing of Spring-Summer 2018 collection
inspired by Cultural Heritage’ in teamwork

The eight-credit course ‘Project Work’ has been a chosen by 8 incoming students of the Zrenjanin Faculty,
who were on the different level of their studies: 5 students were at Bachelor (BA) studies, and 3 students are
on Master (MA) studies. Eight completely different opinions, attitudes, and characters, with different
educational, cultural, social and aesthetical background. Their collective work resulted in a non-standard
fashion collection.

The base assignment to students was to design a collection inspired by the cultural heritage of the Serbian
culture, with the special focus on the heritage of the Serbs settled in the territory of Hungary. They have to
make designs in line with the upcoming Spring/Summer 2018 season. It was essential to organize the entire
work process from gathering ideas to all the stages of work in order to get quality readymade product samples
on time. In addition to the establishment of the requirements and framing the design concept, tasks were to
organize the work in a team – similarly to a present-day fashion company.

2.1.1 The '4 point schedulle' of the project

The ‘4 point schedule’ specified the tasks according to the general policy of the course, and universal
methodology of product design. It was shared with the student group, by the following:

1. Making of research on the latest spring-summer 2018 fashion and commercial trends maintaining
the contemporariness and currency of the collection.
2. Establishment of the requirements and specification the project goals: Organization of the
teamwork and specification of the roles. Making of time schedule! Launching of collective platform
using some advanced on-line tool in order to maintain the free brainstorming of the team members.
3. Framing of the design concept: Summary of the inspiration in form of mood-boards. Creation of
four-capsuled collection which should be coherent in their inspiration, and ethnic-styled. (See special
features.) Presentation of the ideas in series of fashion designs (min. 6 designs per capsule). Making
of the final drawings with any kind of colour technique. Preparation of worksheets for 1-3 of designs,
and the sewing of the prototypes.
4. Elaboration of the experiences in a collective essay: Approx. 50 pg. wanted, illustrated by images
of the research work, mood-boards, designs and technical documentation, and with the photos about
the workflow, and images of the ready samples in the appendix.

Special features:
- Getting inspiration from the rich and unique treasure of motifs, colours, shapes, and techniques of the
Serbian folk art, and the cultural heritage of the Serbs settled in the territory of Hungary. Setting contact
with the Serbian Cultural Centre, research work in the library. Learning about the legendary institution
of Tekelijanum in Budapest, making a visit to Szentendre and the villages around it.
- Presentation of the final results with the help of a PowerPoint presentation (PPT).

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 9th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2018, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

3. Realisation of the project work

In this chapter, the author introduces the critical stages of the realization of the project work, applied according
to the general methodology of Design Theory.

3.1 The process of research

To maintain the contemporariness of the collection, the team studied the fashion trends for Spring-Summer
2018. The team members made a market and historical research and contacted the local Serbian cultural
institution. Students managed the exchange of data and ideas online, by software environment of Dropbox
paper, created by student Anđjelka Cvijetić. This way students can set up and share their ideas and results
online, and the daily progress of the work was quarantined. (Fig. 1)

Figure 1: Screen-prints of the achievements of the historical research shared on Dropbox paper interface

Achievements were summarized and conclusions made at weekly scheduled consulting with the tutor.
Evaluating the results, the teammates jointly set the direction for the development.

3.2 Establishment of the requirements and specification of the roles

The general objective was to create a four capsules collection. It was possible to fulfill divided into sub-tasks
involving the team members roughly to the same extent. Some of the roles were: research (on fashion- and
market trends, historical research), creating and maintaining an on-line interface, communication with the
supporting cultural institutions, designing of the product range, preparation of graphic designs, preparation of
the technical documentation, patterning and sewing of the samples, preparation of the screen-printed products
in cooperation and in laboratories of the Technical Faculty in Zrenjanin, styling, photographing and
presentation of the collection, writing of scientific work (within it: production of diagrams, charts, etc.), and
preparation of visual design of the presentation and PR materials.

The equal responsibilities of the participants were significant to keep up. The organization of teamwork was
the obligation of the tutor. The table 2 details the roles and duties shared by teammates.

Table 2: Table of the duties of the team members and percentage of their participation created by student Anđelka Cvijetić

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 9th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2018, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

Setting up time limits for carrying out each stage of the work well and scheduling of the tasks was of key
significance. The time for completing the tasks shortened due to the decision of the Tutor to participate with
the student group in a Student Scientific Conference. (Table 3)

Table 3: Table with important dates and deadlines

1st 3rd 4th 6th 8th 9th 9-10th 10th 11-14th

week week week week week week week week week
Research,
Completi Scientific Completi
Introductio concept, Sketches, Final designs, Sampling Scientific
ng of the essay ng of the
n of the moodboar draft of the Abstract of the Student
Scientific submissi seminary
project ds, abstract submission products Contest
essay on essay
teamwork

3.3 Framing of the design concept

The team members jointly agreed to work on one complex fashion collection that will consist of 4 capsules in
line with each other. The main concept was to use four words that begin on letter S, as an association to the
coat of arms of Serbian national flag well known as 4S, and its explanation: “Samo sloga Srbina spašava!”
(Which means: „Only the Unity Saves the Serbs!”) That is a national slogan of Serbs. It was further developed
by joint brainstorming of the team. The words picked for the names of the capsules were Serbia, Strong,
Statement and Smart. The aesthetics and style connected to current fashion- and lifestyle trends, breathed in
the quotes that described entire capsule:
1. Serbia: Serbia is Serbia!
2. Strong: Work for it!
3. Statement: Be who you are!
4. Smart: Business clothes that doesn’t take itself too seriously!

Final mood-boards for four capsules were made after framing of the concept. (Fig. 2)

Figure 2. Mood-boards of the capsules ‘Statement’ (left) and ‘Strong’ (right) created by student Slađana Kujundžić

Figure 3. Graphic design for capsule ‘Strong’’ by student Slađana Kujundžić

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 9th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2018, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

This also symbolically reminded the teammates of the importance of the convergence, and respect of each
other's work. Work lasted with the creation of series of sketches and designs for the capsules. At this stage
of the work, all students were involved. For the entire capsule selected sketches were developed in form of
series graphic designs (Fig. 3) and fashion designs. (Fig. 4)

Figure 4. Fashion designs of student Milica Marjanović created for the capsule ‘Statement’

After selecting several designs, tree mixed-styling outfits were formed (in which one garment from every
student play a part). It resulted in exciting outlooks; a fresh and fashionable approach to the seasonal trends
has been achieved.

3.4 Preparation of worksheets with technical drawings and technology descriptions of the garments

The selection process was followed by the preparation of worksheets, technical documentation, and prototype
of the garments. Worksheets have been made by CAD, which was a unique opportunity for the students to
apply their fresh knowledge gained from 3 credit subject Computer-aided product design. (Fig.5)

Figure 5. Selected fashion flats (technical drawings) made for the worksheets by student Slađana Kujundžić

Sewing of the product samples heavily employed students Anđelka Cvijetić, Leposlava Lukić, and Ivett Rác.
Student Marica Pavlovic made the patterns and conducted the sewing process.

4. Results

By application of the introduced methodology, students have learned about the general process of product
design and collection development. Being more or less engaged at a particular stage of the work, they knew
the importance of each other's work. This way students had practically a similar experience as if they were
working at the environment of a present-day fashion company.

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 9th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2018, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

4.1 Elaboration cooperate work and its experiences in a collective essay and participation at the
National Conference of Scientific Students' Associations (OTDK)

In the final phase, students were obligated to write a collective essay assuming their experience. Its form was
defined: the document has to be about 50 pages illustrated pictures of research work, mood board, design and
technical documentation, as well as references and photographs of the prepared samples in the appendix.

National Conference of Scientific Students' Associations (OTDK) is a Student Contest organized twice a year,
coordinated by the Council of National Scientific Students' Associations (OTDT) of the faculties. The date is
habitually the 10th University work-week. Due to this fact, the deadlines to the students have shortened, and
scheduled as shown in Table 3. Students successfully participated at the Contest with scientific work:
'Teamworking on Fashion Collection Inspired by the Serbian Culture in Hungary', and received a certificate of
merit. The scientific essay was a result of collective work of 8 authors; it was edited by student Dragana Ćulum.
Student Ana Ivanković maintained her editorial assistance and communication with the co-authors. The
presentation was prepared and orally presented by Milica Marjanović who has been technically supported and
assisted by Slađana Kujundžić.

4.2 Presentation of the collection at an international fashion event Global Sustainable Fashion Week

The Global Sustainable Fashion Week (GSFW) is internationally recognized professional event, well known in
the world of sustainable fashion. The student group participated at the event representing their country, Serbia.
The styling was made by Milica Marjanović, photo-shooting and image editing was work of Slađana Kujundžić.

5. Conclusion

Working in a team, whose members came with different background, and were at different level of their
education, diverse skills, experience and talent was new and unusual experience for the incoming student
group. It was a unique opportunity to participate in integrated process of collection development and product
development. The 8 member team has successfully completed the project task, from the first conceptual
sketches, through designing and realization of the samples, and finally: styling and photo-shooting of the
collection, and its presentation made the project exiting and complex. Application of the above-introduced
methodology gave complex results:
1. Students learned the general methodology of product design and collection development, what they can
apply in their future professional life in the fashion industry.
2. Presentation of the project work at National Conference of Scientific Students' Associations was experience
for the group that also helped them integrate into the university life. Students learned about the criterions of
writing of a scientific work, and its presentation. It helped them to integrate into the university life.
3. Presentation at international fashion event gave special recognition to this project.

Cooperation, communication and understanding skills of the students evolved during the collective work. The
integrated components of their talent – their above-average skills, creativity and task-engagement, as well as
the peculiar attitude, and superior performance [2] – are aspects, that deserve further research.

References

[1] http://erasmus.uni-obuda.hu, Available from: http://erasmus.uni-

obuda.hu/sites/default/files/subject/Project%20work_0_1_0.pdf. Accessed: 2018-06-17
[2] G. Éva, “A tehetséggondozás pszichológiája,” Magyar Pszichológiai Szemle, Vol 2, p. 221, 2010.
[3] H. Mária, “Mit kezdjünk a tehetséggel?,” Iskolakultúra, Vol. 4, p. 25, 2005.

Author:

Dr. Edit Csanák DLA

Óbuda University Sándor Rejtő Faculty of Light Industry and Environmental Engineering, Institute of Product Design
Doberdó út 6, H-1034 Budapest, Hungary

Phone: +(36) (1) 666 59 72 E-mail: csanak.edit@rkk.uni-obuda.hu