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JUNE 13 2021

THE GREEN
PARTY
How Carrie Johnson
and friends are
rewilding the Tories
JUNE 13 2021

the ultimate
wfh challenge
How (on earth) single
mum Aasmah Mir
balances parenting and
home broadcasting,
page 16

8
RELATIVE VALUES cover Story:
32
ISOLATION DIARIES
43
TABLE TALK
The TV presenter Lorraine
Kelly and her daughter, Rosie, going green The photographer Kieran
Doherty documents his parents’
Marina O’Loughlin finds an
Italian feast at a restaurant
on life in the public eye life and love in lockdown she’s walked past for years
How Carrie Johnson

10 38 58
COVER ARTWORK BY TONY BELL FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. THIS PAGE: JAN FRANKL, GETTY IMAGES

and friends are rewilding


the Tories, page 20

THE INTERVIEW: KEVIN HART The Green Power List: BLOOMING TASTY A LIFE IN THE DAY
Jonathan Dean hears why the meet the movers and Easy recipes to celebrate the The UK’s only Lego certified
world’s highest-paid comedian eco-shakers trying to arrival of summer — just add professional, Kevin Hall, on
has had it with cancel culture save the planet, page 26 flowers. By Skye McAlpine his enviable life in pieces

Plus P7 Matt Rudd | P46 Will Lyons on wine | P48 Farmer Clarkson | P50 Driving: Richard Porter reviews the Toyota Supra

©Times Newspapers Ltd, 2021. Published and licensed by Times Newspapers Ltd, 1 London Bridge Street, London SE1 9GF (020 7782 5000). Printed by Prinovis UK Ltd, Liverpool. Not to be sold separately

The Sunday Times Magazine • 5


MATT RUDD

What does freedom feel like?


First-degree sunburn
We’ve gone from drowned rats to lobster-faced party animals. Another bottle?

W
hen it comes to tables and can swim from one sky bar to another. Ridiculous.
seats in restaurants and bars, The horrific thought of another kink in the roadmap
I am not lucky. My name is has spurred them into future-proofing action. Along
never down, they do not know this particular beachfront there are now dining pods,
who I am, I will be by the toilet brunch cabins, roof terraces, lounge terraces, so many
or the fire exit and they’re terraces. Someone’s even got hold of some cable-car
very sorry but they’re full tonight and the kitchen just gondolas — eBay’s great, isn’t it? — and converted them
closed. Last orders! At the theatre I get the seat in front into private dining rooms. What’s actually happened,
of the short angry person. On the plane I’m behind the I conclude after the second glass of wine, is that we’ve
guy who reclines before the chicken or beef. Not lucky. become Mediterranean. How glamorous.
So imagine my sheer, joyous disbelief when, after After the fourth glass I realise this is not true. Down
a mere 40 minutes on the sunniest day of the year here everybody is drinking and nobody is wearing
outside a stylish new beach bar in Hove, the waitress sunblock — the exact opposite of Mediterranean. Some
who had looked dubious when I’d said I hadn’t reserved of them might be sitting on swanky sofas next to potted
but was there any chance of a table for six, came over, palms but that doesn’t mean they aren’t hammered
smiled and said: “Follow me.” and hospital-red. What is wrong with these people,
And I followed her and my party followed me and we I wonder as I pour another glass. Don’t they realise
all expected some wobbly trestle table by the bins but they’ll spend the next three days in screaming agony?
behold, the nicest spot in the place — outdoor sofas Last month an unhelpful finance company worked
looking onto the beach, proper Ibiza VIP — all for us. out that we each need to drink 124 pints this summer
“This one?” to save the nation’s food and beverage industry. Clearly
“Yes. I’ll be over with your menus shortly.” some people have decided to do this in one weekend.
“Are you sure?” Don’t focus on the new research from Imperial
“Ssssshhh,” shushed Harriet, who is familiar with my College London that found even moderate alcohol
luck, and for the rest of the afternoon we drank and ate consumption is linked to reduced brain matter volume,
and million-people-watched. increased heart ventricle mass and higher levels of fat
After the first glass of wine I realised what had in the liver. Focus instead on the theory, postulated by
happened. It wasn’t my luck that had changed, it was the philosopher Edward Slingerland in his new book,
the entire hospitality industry. Last summer the most Drunk, that by causing humans “to become, at least
sophisticated al fresco option was a hastily erected pub temporarily, more creative, cultural, and communal…
marquee. This summer it’s completely different. Across intoxicants provided the spark that allowed us to form
the land come excited whispers about new things in old truly large-scale groups”. We have booze to thank for
drinking haunts — there’s a giant bell tent in the pub civilisation. Focus on that.
garden, the whole street’s been turned into an outdoor It’s hard, though, as a vermilion woman relieves
restaurant, have you heard about the champagne herself between two beach huts without spilling her
igloos behind the Coach & Horses? In London — not pint and the ashen remains of a stag party chase a
Ibiza or Singapore — a mad architect has built a “sky billowing L-plate into the waves. This is our new
CHARLIE CLIFT FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE

pool” between two apartment blocks. Ten floors up you civilisation, I think, snootily. Going for the
Mediterranean passeggiata and falling short, literally.
No, I haven’t put “Your neck’s very red,” Harriet says as I empty the
bottle. “Haven’t you put any sunblock on?” No, I’ve
sunblock on. I’m too been too busy sneering at people who haven’t put
any sunblock on. And as I write this several days
later, the pain level is now down to somewhere
busy sneering at people between Singing Detective and English Patient.
And it was worth it n
with no sunblock on @mattrudd

The Sunday Times Magazine • 7


RELATIVE VALUES

Lorraine Kelly &


Rosie Kelly Smith
The TV presenter and her daughter on Mum being a pin-up and joining Celebrity Gogglebox

Lorraine HMRC to court, it was a horrible, draining experience.


Rosie was always a very easy child. People talk about [In 2019 Kelly received a £1.2 million tax bill as an “ITV
their babies not sleeping and it’s a nightmare, and then employee”. She disputed the figure and argued that she
the terrible twos, and we were waiting for it. And then was a freelancer. The judge ruled in her favour, calling
we were waiting for the problems at primary school, the her a “self-employed star”.] But they’d made a mistake.
teenage rebellions; and it just never came, none of it. They hadn’t taken into account all the taxes we had
Don’t get me wrong, we have had a few clashes, but actually paid. We had a strong case and we won, and
I can’t remember us ever having a proper fight. what’s been amazing since is that it’s given a lot of hope
Rosie’s an only child. I had her when I was a little bit to people going through a similar experience — not
older, 34 I think, so I’d established myself before she people on TV, not rich people, but people who work
came along. It would have been great if we’d had more for themselves. Rosie was very supportive to me
children — I had a miscarriage when Rosie was six — throughout all of that.
but we never went down the road of IVF or adoption; We’re working together now too, me and Rosie,
we just felt awfully lucky to have one really happy kid. doing our podcast and Celebrity Gogglebox, sitting on
We lived in Berkshire until she was 11, and then our bums watching telly. Happy days! I love doing our
moved back up to Scotland, where Steve [Smith, her podcast. Much of my job on TV is to talk to people for,
husband] and I are from, and settled in Dundee. I spent like, seven or eight minutes, so to talk to someone for
most of my time travelling back and forth to London for longer is a joy. Rosie is the one who asks the interesting
work, and so Steve was the one who watched over Rosie questions that make people think. She asked Tim Peake
most, made her dinner every night, made sure she did [the astronaut] about being bored up there.
her homework. I was the parent coming back with We’re very close but I’m still Rosie’s mum, right? I’d
presents and magazines and talking about silly things. love to think she tells me everything, but of course she
When she went to university to study journalism, it doesn’t. You never told your mum everything, did you?
wasn’t too far away, in Edinburgh, but I still remember I certainly didn’t. But we’re in her corner. If she’s ever in
dropping her off in her tiny room in her halls and crying trouble, if she ever needs anything, she just has to call
all the way home. And then, after university, she went to us. She knows that.
live in Singapore for three years. That was hard, but of
course you have to let your kids go, don’t you? GOT YOUR BACK
I’ve been on TV all her life [Kelly began her TV career Top: Rosie, 26, and
as a reporter for TV-am in 1984], so it was never a big Lorraine, 61, outside
deal for Rosie. When she was wee she couldn’t Television Centre
understand why her mum was in a box in the corner in west London.
of the living room. But nobody cared who I was back Right: Rosie as a
home. Who was that Olympic rower? Steve Redgrave, toddler with dad
that’s it. His kids were at the same school, and that was Steve and Lorraine
much more interesting to them than Rosie’s mum.
I’ve been lucky. People are almost always nice to me,
but when you’re in the public eye you have to accept
that people are interested in what you do and what
happens to you. When we took the decision to take

“Her fame has never been awkward


for me. She’s not gone on reality TV,
never made an arse out of herself ”
8 • The Sunday Times Magazine
Rosie up with — rather than her. They’re both very down-to-
I remember being in central London with my mum earth and humble. If I ever behaved badly, it would have
once. I was still wee, maybe six or seven. Mamma Mia! been immediately knocked out of me, but I don’t think
had just come out and we were at the premiere, and all I ever really did. They took my phone off me only once,
these people wanted Mum’s autograph. At that age it I think — a Motorola pink flippy one — but I can’t even
was all a bit overwhelming, but then Mum being on TV STRANGE HABITS remember why.
is all I’ve ever known. Fortunately, her fame has never I don’t think I’ve gone a day without speaking to
been awkward for me. She’s not gone on reality TV, Lorraine on Rosie Mum. We spoke all the time while I was in Singapore,
never made an arse out of herself. Of course, some guys As a child, she loved and they came to visit, and now that I’m back in
at my school did fancy her, and they were very clear strong tastes. She’d England, regularly, especially now that me and Mum
about it, but I just took it as a compliment. eat lemons. I’ve are working together. On our podcast, I basically just sit
I’m not always a great judge of character, but my got a picture of her back and watch her, taking notes. She’s so good at what
schoolfriends were, and sometimes they’d tell me that sucking a lime she does, and you can’t compete with that.
people only wanted to be friends with me because of Since university I’ve written for magazines and done
ANNA BATCHELOR FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. COURTESY OF ROSIE KELLY SMITH

who Mum was. I remember once someone owed me Rosie on Lorraine a bit of broadcast work, but I’m still not entirely sure
20 quid, and when I asked for it back they said: “Oh, but Every night she what I want to do. Mum has encouraged me to decide
you can afford it.” That’s not how you treat people, is it? packs a bag for the on my career path maybe once a week for ten years now,
After Mum miscarried, we never spoke about it. I do next morning for but there’s no real pressure there. As long as I’m happy.
remember it happening, though. She was sitting on the work, with all the There’s no pressure for me to settle down, either. That
stairs and just fainted, and then suddenly we were in things she needs. said, Mum did an interview with a women’s magazine a
the ambulance and I had no idea what was going on. It It always happens few years ago — I must have been in my early twenties,
was only when I was 15 and Mum’s memoir [Lorraine: after dinner, and before I was with my boyfriend, James — and she said
Between You and Me, published in 2008] came out that she announces that in it, “I can’t wait to be a grandmother!” I just thought,
I read all about it for the first time. Even then we didn’t she is “away to do “Well, we could have had a chat about that ourselves
discuss it, but in some ways I don’t think we needed to. my ceremony” before she went and told somebody else, no?” n
So it was always just the three of us — and our
dog, Rocky. We were close, but not best friends or Interviews by Nick Duerden
anything. Your mum is your mum; it’s a completely Photograph by Anna Batchelor
different relationship. Because she travelled so much Celebrity Gogglebox is on Fridays at 9pm on Channel 4
for work, my dad was the one I was with most, the and All 4. To download What If ? With Lorraine & Rosie,
one I’d occasionally fall out with — and quickly make visit pod.link/lorraineandrosie

The Sunday Times Magazine • 9


“ I say this humbly,
but I’m as talented
as f***. I’m really
good at what I do”
Kevin Hart
The world’s highest-earning comedian

THE

K
evin Hart is the highest-earning stand-up being arrogant, more what he considers to be an honest

MAGAZINE
in the world right now, and the next reflection of his skills. “I’m really good at what I do.”
highest — Jerry Seinfeld — isn’t even Hart is speaking from a hotel room in Budapest,
INTERVIEW close. Over 16 months from September where he is making a film in which he plays a “military-
JONATHAN 2017, Hart’s Irresponsible tour filled 119 trained specialist”. To show that he can do the work

DEAN
arenas around the world , including six in the UK. better than anyone else — which is what he always
Meanwhile, as an actor, his prolific output of comedy wants to do — he overprepared for the role, training
blockbusters such as Ride Along and Night School have with US Navy Seals. It shows — he fills a tight white
made more than $4 billion at the box office. “I’m T-shirt and looks more athlete than comedian. He is
extremely attracted to business,” he tells me, adding also the most professional celebrity I’ve met over
later that he thinks he could be a billionaire by the Zoom, with big headphones and a studio microphone
time he’s 45. He turns 42 next month and is worth set up. Most of his peers turn up with a bad connection
$200 million, so he has some work to do. But work is and hope for the best, but Hart does not leave things
his thing and he lacks neither confidence in his to chance. Off screen he types away on his phone,
abilities nor motivation. messaging whoever, yet somehow he never seems to
Born in Philadelphia in 1979, Hart was raised by his drop his attention from our interview. It is almost as if,
single mother, Nancy, while Henry, his drug-addicted rather than one big brain, he has four smaller ones, so
father, was in and out of jail. His older brother, Robert, he can split focus between his multihyphenate career
was kicked out of the house and legally emancipated and his family back in California.
from Nancy after committing a series of crimes Financially, then, he is doing well. But his commercial
including drug dealing and theft. Desperate, perhaps, success in film has so far failed to translate into any sort
to avoid the same happening to him, Hart studied of critical acclaim — something he claims not to care
hard and graduated from high school. While he was about. It was all smiles and laughter when Jimmy Fallon,
working as a shoe salesman a friend suggested he try The Tonight Show host, joked: “You’ve made so many
an open-mike night and he realised he could be funny films in the last few years, have you ever thought of just
for money. His freewheeling style is like Richard Pryor slowing down and making one good one?” But then
after a focus group — they share an energy, but Hart there’s the story of the critic who wrote a scathing
feels less unhinged, more practised, with skits ranging review of one of his films and received, from Hart,
from family-friendly jokes to full-on X-rated rants. a cardboard cut-out of the comedian plus an $8,000
He is an elaborate, physical performer and that is his bottle of wine. I’m tempted to write, “Kevin Hart
appeal to his global audience — he is raw, he is rude drowns cats!” to see what turns up in the post, but he
and he is very funny. claims that gift was just a one-off.
His next film, Fatherhood, is a departure from all of “I’ve only had two good movie reviews,” shrugs the
this. He plays a man left to raise his daughter alone star of more than 60 films. “It doesn’t bother me. I’m
when his wife dies after giving birth and it will surprise no stranger to negative feedback.” So why send the
many to see this brash loudmouth conveying the expensive wine? What point was he trying to make?
PHOTOGRAPH numbness of grief very convincingly. “I say this humbly “It was a nudge,” he says. “This guy always wrote
JAN FRANKL — but I’m as talented as f***,” he says, which is not him something bad and he has to realise these movies

10 • The Sunday Times Magazine


JAN FRANKL FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO THE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GRESHAM PALACE BUDAPEST, KEVIN DUTTON STUDIO

The Sunday Times Magazine • 11


means that too. “If somebody has done something truly
damaging then, absolutely, a consequence should be
attached. But when you just talk about … nonsense?”
He flicks his hand dismissively. “When you’re talking,
‘Someone said! They need to be taken [down]!’ Shut the
f*** up! What are you talking about?” On stage he is full
of movement, and he is now chopping at the air wildly. It
feels like the start of a routine. Except he’s deadly serious.
Right: with his wife, “When did we get to a point where life was supposed
Eniko, and children to be perfect? Where people were supposed to operate
Heaven, Hendrix perfectly all the time? I don’t understand. I don’t expect
and Kenzo, 2019. perfection from my kids. I don’t expect it from my wife,
Below: with his new friends, employees. Because, last I checked, the only
baby, Kaori, in way you grow up is from f***ing up. I don’t know a kid
February; on his who hasn’t f***ed up or done some dumb shit.”
Irresponsible tour, He seems genuinely fed up. “I’ve been cancelled,
2017; with Ice Cube what, three or four times? Never bothered. If you allow
in Ride Along, 2014 it to have an effect on you, it will. Personally? That’s not
how I operate. I understand people are human. Everyone
make hundreds of millions; there may be a following can change. It’s like jail. People get locked up so they can
attached to stuff I do. But the bigger that you get the be taught a lesson. When they get out, they are supposed
more people poke at you. I don’t know why. The road to to be better. But if they come out and people go, ‘I’m not
success is amazing. Then you get there and opinions giving you a job because you were in jail’ — then what
about you grow.” the f*** did I go to jail for? That was my punishment
Opinions grow and personal histories are raked — how do you not give those people a shot? They’re
through. In 2018 Hart was announced as the host of the saying that all life should be over because of a mistake?
Oscars ceremony; a huge accolade for an entertainer. Your life should end and there should be no opportunity
But there was an immediate backlash as homophobic to change? What are you talking about?” He points
tweets he had sent nearly ten years previously — plus forcibly at me. “And who are you to make that decision?”
some dubious old stand-up material — resurfaced. Though he claims not to be bothered by cancel
The tweets contained offensive references to Aids, culture, he does admit that comedy has changed
while a routine from 2010 featured the quip, “Being a because of it. He started in stand-up in the late 1990s
heterosexual male, if I can prevent my son from being with the stage name Lil Kev the Bastard, before his first
gay, I will,” which was followed by a joke about knocking big comedy special, I’m a Grown Little Man, took him
his son to the ground. The Oscars organisers asked him to new heights in 2009, with cathartic jokes about his
to apologise. He refused and said that he had addressed stature: he is 5ft 2in. Back then the circuit was
it in an interview in 2015, when he said he would no unfiltered, he says, but now comics feel censored and
longer tell that joke, and that he had also apologised have lost the freedom once attached to their craft.
— even if said apology proved difficult to unearth. “You’re thinking that things you say will come back
Faced with a rising tide of anger, he stepped down and bite you on the ass. I can’t be the comic today that
from the ceremony and issued a statement: “I sincerely I was when I got into this.”
apologise to the LGBTQ community for my insensitive But if he is not, as he says, affected by the persistent
words from my past.” It was an extremely fraught and threat of cancellation, why change the comedy he does?
tricky time. Gay people associated with his company “It’s not necessarily about cancel culture,” he elaborates.
HartBeat Productions felt that they had to justify “It’s backlash. It’s about the intent behind what you say
working for him. A few weeks later he apologised again — there’s an assumption it’s always bad and, somehow,
and said that was that. we forgot comedians are going for the laugh. You’re not
Today he tells me: “If people want to pull up stuff, saying something to make people angry. That’s not why
go back to the same tweets of old, go ahead. There is I’m on stage. I’m trying to make you laugh and if I did
nothing I can do. You’re looking at a younger version not make you laugh I failed. That’s my consequence.”
of myself. A comedian trying to be funny and, at that I mention how, after the Oscars mess, he said he
attempt, failing. Apologies were made. I understand would only get on that stage when he figured out how
now how it comes off. I look back and cringe. So it’s to win an actual award. He nods. Is Fatherhood the type
growth. It’s about growth.” of project he meant? “Life has a funny way of working
His latest stand-up show, the aptly named Zero F***s itself out, right?” he says. “A lot came from that
Given, was released on Netflix in November and has moment. Lessons were learnt. Insight. So much came
already been viewed more than 21 million times. my way that I take it as a good thing that happened in
“I mean, I personally don’t give a shit about it,” he says my life. If I do get to that stage? Great.” He shrugs.
of cancel culture. His raised eyebrows suggest he really “If I don’t? Great. Will it be in a hosting manner? No.”
There is a scene in Fatherhood in which Hart’s
BACKGRID, GETTY IMAGES, SHUTTERSTOCK


There’s nothing I can character, Matt, goes into his daughter’s school because
she has been told she cannot wear trousers. The teacher
do about old tweets. asks: “What if a boy wanted to come to school dressed
in a skirt?” “Well, that’s that boy’s business,” Matt
replies. “It’s the 21st century!” Which is exactly the kind
Apologies were made. of acceptance the actor has been criticised for lacking.
“Yes, yes,” says Hart, pre-empting my question.
I look back and cringe” “But the crazy thing is that was in the script. It’s

The Sunday Times Magazine • 13


a well-written line, because our job is to help [a child]
truly feel like they can be themselves. It’s not our job to
prohibit them.” He knows how people might take the
scene — a not-so-subtle attempt to prove he isn’t the
bigot he has been accused of being. “But it’s a message
the world needs,” he sighs. “The importance of support.”

A
Right: with Melody s a child Hart shared a one-bedroom flat
Hurd in the new film with his mother that had tape on the floor
Fatherhood. Below: to catch cockroaches. Part of the reason
as a boy with his late that he works so hard must be because of
mother, Nancy; in where he comes from. Though now
recovery from back reconciled, the relationship with his dad was tough —
surgery after a car “I love him, there’s no grudge. I don’t have the time to
crash in 2019 find anger” — while his beloved mum died when she
was 56. He says people born with money take it for
granted. Hart takes nothing for granted. His focus now otherwise, of their father’s life by going online? “Yeah,
is on creating generational wealth for his family: wife but we’re fine,” he reiterates with added buoyancy.
Eniko and four children — teens Heaven and Hendrix “There are no secrets. You can’t be that way today.
from a first marriage, who split their time between There’s too much floating around and a high
parents, toddler Kenzo and baby Kaori from the second. percentage is bullshit, because that is what the internet
In 2014 emails from Sony Pictures were leaked as part does. It creates, spreads so fast that you’re playing a
of a cyberattack on the company. In the deluge of leaked game of what’s true and what isn’t. But that should
correspondence it emerged that Clint Culpepper, never happen in your home.”
a production executive, had called Hart a “whore” in a There is no doubt that Hart is extremely unflappable.
message to the boss, Amy Pascal. Hart was negotiating This might be because he talks of himself not so much
more money to promote a film on his social media as a person sometimes but a project — as though Kevin
channels, in an era before that was built into contracts. Hart is just another part of the Kevin Hart empire. He is
“I don’t consider that being a whore,” Hart shrugs, so in love with his HartBeat Productions company that
as he so often does. “I just consider that understanding he can come across a little Gordon Gekko — “I love the
your brand. The assumption of ‘money whore’ is that CEO lifestyle. World of VC. Investing. Creating entities
needing money is a bad thing. It comes with the and IPs.” He also makes motivational audiobooks —
assumption everybody is OK because you are OK. “I’m having a lot of fun in the literature space” — and
There’s a high level of ignorance attached to that.” even has a young adult novel out this week: Marcus
Hart never has to work again, but he continues to Makes a Movie, about dreaming big. “I have navigated
travel the world, touring his routines and shooting it correctly,” is how he describes his controversy-laden
films. Yet he talks about the importance of close-knit career and, to be honest, you can chuck so much water
family and how, like wealth, that was something he did his way — poor reviews, Oscars, car crash, Sony, sex
not have growing up. He was in a serious car crash in tape — but he just remains the duck’s back.
2019 in which the vehicle veered off the road and down There is no doubt, though, that his apologies can
an embankment. As a passenger he sustained serious sound more like explanations — as if, deep down, he
back injuries and that only increased his sense that really just wants to prove he was right all along. Or,
“it can all go away”. Now he wants to prioritise the at least, to show that there was a reason for whatever
important things. Not money, he says, but family — happened at the time. He was young. The scene was
being with them on a day-to-day basis. Does he, then, different back then. He’s grown since. Yet there is
see the disconnect between having the home life he sincerity here, and persuasiveness, not to mention
so cherishes and being away so much for his work? a willingness to address anything he is asked, which,
“Well, I do it in a way that makes sense,” he says, in a world full of dubious Hollywood apology and
a little put out. “So if I do a movie for a couple of question dodging, is not only refreshing, it is rare.
months, if I’m in the States, I fly home every weekend. “If there’s a message to take from anything I’ve said,”
Or the family come out. If I’m touring I might just he concludes, “it’s that in this world of opinion, it’s OK
PHILIPPE BOSSE / NETFLIX, CAPITAL PICTURES, INSTAGRAM / KEVINHART4REAL / RUCKAS

do Friday, Saturday and Sunday, so I’m at home all to just disagree. It’s OK to not like what someone did
week. Maybe I’ll take two months off and then be and to say that person wasn’t for me. We are so caught
home with the family.” up in everybody feeling like they have to be right and
In 2017 Hart publicly admitted to cheating on his their way is the only way. Politics is f***ed up because,
wife, Eniko, after a friend used a sex tape to blackmail if you don’t choose our side, you’re dumb.”
him. Hart did not pay, but came clean to Eniko, who He is gesticulating now, hands like a conductor,
stuck by him. “Yeah, we’re close,” he insists. But can’t building up to a crescendo. “It’s a divide. It’s f***ed
Heaven and Hendrix find out all the details, sordid and up. But I’m not about to divide. I don’t support the
divide!” His voice is rising. It squeaks. This is how he
He once sent an $8,000 works in his big arenas. “I put everybody in the f***ing
building,” he continues. “We all come into this
bottle of wine to a critic building Kevin Hart is in and we all laugh. I bring
people together — like it or not.” n

who wrote a scathing Fatherhood is released on Netflix on Friday.


Marcus Makes a Movie by Kevin Hart is published
review of one of his films by Random House on Tuesday at £10.99

The Sunday Times Magazine • 15


HUSH
DARLING,
MUMMY’S
LIVE
ON AIR
Can you host a national radio show from your bedroom
while your five-year-old daughter gets ready for school?
Single mum Aasmah Mir found out the hard way.
Photographs by Tom Barnes
T
he eight o’clock news starts excruciatingly boring and nanny can use her bed. One moved her
and I leap out of my chair and unfeasible as a double act. mother into her house from 300 miles
open my bedroom door. My However, life comes at away, presumably with her permission.
five-year-old daughter has you fast and at the end of Another told me that her estranged
been listening at the keyhole March I separated from my husband would arrive at the house at 6am
and promptly falls into the husband of 14 years. When a couple to do the childcare handover.
room, Del Boy-style. Luckily splits, the children almost always, All these women understood that just
she finds this hilarious and rightly or wrongly, stay with the “getting a nanny” wasn’t an option when
does not cry; and thankfully I remembered mother in the marital home — and this you leave for work at 4am and you don’t
to put my microphone on mute. has been the case for us. have a spare room. But the thing that kept
This is what happens when you become My marriage ending coincided with the coming up again and again, from senior
a single parent overnight but you are also beginning of my daughter’s two-week female journalists who get up early, was: you
one half of a national radio breakfast Easter break, so I took the time off to be have to work from home. It’s the only way.
programme. The show must go on — well, with her and steady my spinning head. But When my bosses realised my
at least till 10am. You just have to broadcast even then I could see the hideous problem predicament, they moved mountains to
from your bedroom while your daughter looming of how I was going to get back to accommodate me. But I am one of the
sleeps on the other side of a very thin wall. work and who on earth was going to lucky ones. Many women who messaged
And you have to pray to all the gods that look after her at 4am. me said that they had to give up their jobs
she doesn’t wake up and wander in, My decision to opt for a dream and do something with more traditional
shouting about hard poos or lost unicorns. job at a crazy time of the day hours so they could be the main carer.
Yes — please let her stay in bed till her began to feel like a nightmare. So Something had to give and in the end it
alarm goes at 7.30, at which I asked on message boards and was their careers.
point help (either her father nanny WhatsApp groups and And so at 6am on Monday, April 19,
or a relative parachuted in people I knew locally. Come I nervously started broadcasting a national
for a few days) is on hand to on, there must be someone breakfast show from an ironing board in
get her up and off to school. who wants to come to my house my bedroom — symbolic or what? — with
Throughout the at 3.30am and lie on my hard sofa my daughter asleep, fingers crossed, in
pandemic I had managed to till my daughter wakes up for the next room. I was keenly aware that I had
avoid working from home. At school? But no, strangely no one to do a good job, focus on my interview
Radio 4 my co-presenter Richard was enticed. I had run out of ideas. with whichever government minister was
Coles and I slowly distanced ourselves In a panic I asked for advice on up that day, with one ear listening out for
from each other, ending up at desks on Twitter. The response was staggering. any crying from next door. I had to show
opposite sides of the studio, waving Actual practical suggestions flooded in that co-presenting a breakfast programme
maniacally and relying on hand signals from a whole community of women who from home could work, while also
and bits of paper. At Times Radio, which for years have been dealing with working praying that my daughter wouldn’t
launched last June, my co-presenter Stig really weird hours — 3am starts or wake up and march in shouting for
Abell and I have always kept near enough overnight — and being single parents. One her breakfast. My stomach was
two metres apart and were later separated journalist whom I don’t even know offered churning, my voice low, my
by plastic screens. But through it all I me and my daughter her large spare room eyes fixed on the door
thanked my lucky stars that I never had to so that I could share her nanny. Another handle. But, bless her, she
work from home, which to me sounded explained how she sleeps on her sofa so the slept that morning, and the
next, and the next — so
spooked by my warnings that she
was not to come out of her room
until her alarm went. But every morning
that was the longest hour and a half. The
feeling of intense vulnerability and stress
— that you are doing two very important
things at once. You are responsible for
this small child’s care and wellbeing,
and responsible for presenting a news
programme competently. But we did it.
We are an invisible team. She sleeps,
I speak. That’s the deal.
By the second week she was dying of
curiosity to see what was going on behind
Mummy’s door and why she was talking
to an ironing board. She started pushing
little notes through. “We are going now
bye bye love you so much”, “When are you
going to be finnished?” and “My porrij was
In the Times Radio studio with co-presenter Stig Abell before relocating to her bedroom apsolootely horrid”.

Just “getting a nanny” isn’t an option when you leave


for work at 4am and you don’t have a spare room
18 • The Sunday Times Magazine
LOW-RES

FINDING THEIR FEET With just a thin wall between Aasmah and her daughter, the ground rules of home broadcasting were soon flouted

By week three she could contain herself lavatory-related matter. “Excuse me, At nine o’clock I exhale because my
no longer and was striding in, balancing an secretary of state, I just have to deal with daughter is at school, and by ten I relax as
unsolicited plate of toast for me, finger on a hard poo. Not mine of course hahahahaa.” the show ends. I did it. I bloody did it. Again.
lips and waving silently at the production Every day I wake to a different set of Nothing bad happened. How much
team on the camera. emotions. Life is full of exciting future longer can I get away with this?
TOM BARNES FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. RICHARD POHLE / TIMES NEWSPAPERS LTD, ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES

So we developed some new rules. plans and a deepening bond between me I’ve had so many messages
“Mummy will come down and see you and my mini-me. It is also a mixture of high from people saying I am
quickly at 8 and 8.30 when the news is on, stress, bone-aching fatigue and dizzying amazing, doing both things
OK?” But once I forgot to come down at uncertainty. Coronavirus shrunk our at once. I don’t feel
8.30 and when I remembered at 8.45 she worlds to our local parks; and for me, my amazing. I feel frazzled by
looked so sad and forlorn that I almost cried. tiny bedroom. Some days it feels stifling; the whole situation.
She then went through a phase of the blinds are down, it’s dark and I’m on my It’s my daughter who is the
illegally bundling in just before the 8.30 own. In those inky, quiet hours between 4am hero of this tale. She has had to adapt
news with a brush and hairbands so I could and 6am I feel like a ship lost at sea, listing to so many things: her parents splitting up
do her ponytails. Once I was mid-interview perilously. But as the morning progresses and her mum’s strange work routine.
when she slid onto my lap, so all I could do life arrives with a bang and a crash and I feel When I hinted that I would have to go
was ask questions, then mute my mike for connected to the real world again. back to the office one day soon, she burst
the answers while looping unicorn Outside, a child has a tantrum on his way into tears and I died a little. But I will,
hairbands through her hair. You didn’t get to school, scaffolding is erected, a bin lorry I have to, I want to. I haven’t quite figured
that in John Humphrys’s day. reverses and continually tells you that it’s out how but it will involve compromise. It’s
My crippling fear of her coming in and reversing, a group of men arrives to dig up my next battle and just thinking about it
being heard on mike has slowly dissipated the street for gas works, two dogs fight, makes me want to close my eyes for a
over the weeks. What’s the worst that a neighbour appears who has a drill and hundred years. But I’ll do it for her, my little
could happen? She might isn’t afraid to use it. I hunker Silent Sleeping Beauty n
shout about bums or down behind my cushions and
complain that her cereal hope the listeners can’t hear Aasmah Mir and Stig Abell present Times
was too soggy or some the distracting noise. Radio Breakfast, Mon-Thu, 6am-10am

I was mid-interview when my daughter slid onto my lap. I had


to mute my mike while looping her unicorn hairbands
The Sunday Times Magazine • 19
Married to the cause:
how Carrie’s eco clique
took control
top the slaughter in the water!

S Stop killing whales!” the young


woman shouted. Marching
down Regent Street in
central London en route to a
demonstration at the Japanese embassy
was Carrie Symonds.
It was a chilly day in January 2019 and
Symonds, former head of communications
for the Conservative Party and then the
girlfriend of Boris Johnson, was clearly
enjoying herself. “What do we want? Save
the whales! When do we want it? Now!”
she chanted.
Also at the protest was Stanley Johnson,
Boris’s father. “Save the whale!” he shouted.
Seven months later on a glorious August
day in the southern French coastal resort
of Biarritz, Boris Johnson sat down with
the Japanese leader, Shinzo Abe. Johnson
had become prime minister the previous
month and this, the G7, was his first
important geopolitical event. President
Trump had flown in, France and Germany
were keen to discuss the looming Brexit,
and Johnson was on a mission to negotiate
trade deals outside Europe.
However, on that Monday morning he
had something else on his mind. “There
was a half-hour bilateral with the Japanese
prime minister and Carrie got Boris to
bring up whaling. He talked about it for 15
minutes,” says the animal rights
campaigner Dominic Dyer, who had
organised the January protest. “I think the
Japanese government was scratching its
head, wondering where it had come from.”
Carrie Johnson, 33, has long been a
committed environmentalist. The prime
minister, whom she married last month, has
a rather less convincing green back story. For
years he was considered a climate sceptic,
and his newspaper columns for The Daily
Telegraph regularly characterised opponents
of fossil fuels as “gloomsters”. But as prime
minister he has been undoubtedly green,
even, it could be argued, radically so.
With the Cop26 climate summit planned
for Glasgow this November, his government
has already launched a raft of progressive
environmental policies, from pledging to
cut carbon emissions by 78 per cent by 2035,
to a move to ban peat compost by 2024, to
passing the first laws formally recognising
animals as sentient beings. It has also ended
its commitment to badger culling.
It is a strong shift of direction for a party
that almost reintroduced fox hunting five
years ago. So what is driving this change?
Boris Johnson has never been an enthusiastic “There’s certainly been a step change,”
environmentalist. What’s changed? Rosie Kinchen says Heidi Allen, former Tory MP and now
and Ben Spencer report on the tree-hugging Tories strategic advocacy adviser to the RSPCA.
“Although everyone in No 10 will brief
who are turning the government green heavily and say it’s not the case, it can be no
coincidence that having Carrie by Boris’s
side is having a phenomenal effect.”
Dyer acknowledges Carrie’s influence,
DEMO DUO Stanley Johnson and Carrie Symonds attend an anti-whaling but believes the prime minister has other
protest outside the Japanese embassy in London, January 2019 motives. “Boris is not very ideological

The Sunday Times Magazine • 21


about anything,” he says. “But he has a sort
of grand view of achieving something that
people will remember him for. I think he
understands now climate is an issue leaders
will be judged on. He’s got an opportunity
to be seen as being a key player at a critical
time and if Glasgow delivers some key global
commitments he will be given credit for it.”
This is happening at a pivotal moment.
Britain’s departure from the EU has FRIENDS OF
provided an opportunity to reconsider the THE EARTH
nation’s green credentials, and one of the Zac Goldsmith with
key battlegrounds is the British countryside. Boris Johnson, left,
There is a broad consensus that farming and his brother Ben,
subsidies cannot continue in the way they below, a fellow
had during the days of the EU’s common environmental
agricultural policy. But the question still campaigner
rumbling within the Conservative Party is
what should take their place. watermelons — “green on the outside,
Key to that argument is Zac Goldsmith red on the inside’’.
— a close friend to Carrie and a key ally Zac was persuaded to join the
of the prime minister. When Goldsmith Conservatives by David Cameron, who
joined the Tories under David Cameron, he pledged at the time to make “the greenest
did so because he hoped “to weave a green government ever”. Instead policies were
thread through the Conservative Party”. watered down or abandoned and Goldsmith
And increasingly he is achieving that goal. languished on the backbenches. Yet during
Goldsmith and his younger brother, the this time he also formed a network of
financier Ben, have formed an influential like-minded allies, including Dyer and
core of passionate environmentalists at Carrie Johnson. While Carrie has said that
the centre of the Conservative Party who her environmental awareness began during
believe in a green, rewilded, natural Britain. went on to set up a zoo at Howletts in an internship at the International Fund
The Goldsmith family’s influence on Kent; and Mark Shand, the conservationist for Animal Welfare, it is likely to have
British environmentalism runs deep. In brother of the Duchess of Cornwall who developed further while she worked as
the words of the Green Party politician and married Teddy’s daughter, Clio. Goldsmith’s parliamentary aide in 2010-11.
campaigner Derek Wall: “Green politics in Many of these names still hold sway within She has said she owes her career in the
Britain is branded with the Goldsmith logo the Conservative Party. Shand’s nephew, Ben Conservative Party to him.
and fertilised by Goldsmith seed funds.” The Elliott, a close friend of Zac Goldsmith’s, is Ben was busy too. He founded a green-
story begins with Zac and Ben’s uncle Teddy. now the party chairman. Howletts and the investment fund and then launched
In the 1960s Teddy Goldsmith embarked on Aspinall conservation charity is run by John’s Menhaden, an investment firm that focuses
a voyage of discovery through Africa with son, Damian, and employs Carrie Johnson on energy efficiency. In 2012 the former
his friend John Aspinall. Both returned as its head of PR. (It is currently under Conservative MP Peter Ainsworth, who
committed to saving the planet. investigation by the charity commission was then on the board at the Environment
Goldsmith founded The Ecologist for alleged financial irregularities. The Agency, placed a pile of papers on
magazine and was influential in the charity has promised it will work “openly” Goldsmith’s desk about the Conservative
establishment of the People Party, which with investigators and that it remains Environment Network (CEN), which had
later became the Green Party. In 1974 he “firmly committed” to its ethical and legal formed after the 2008 Climate Change Act
stood as People’s candidate for Eye in duties.) Ben Goldsmith and his half-brother but was now dormant. Ainsworth wanted
Suffolk, campaigning by parading around Robin Birley are on the board. Zac was a Ben to take it on, which he did, reanimating
a camel borrowed from Aspinall bearing trustee until 2019. it later that year as a lobby group aiming to
a banner reading “No deserts in Suffolk. Neither of the Goldsmith brothers went reclaim environmentalism from the left. The
Vote Goldsmith.” He lost his deposit. to university. Zac, who was expelled from launch party was hosted by Michael Gove.
Within the burgeoning environmental Eton for possession of marijuana, travelled When Boris Johnson became prime
movement he was unusual in being for four years with environmental charities minister in July 2019, Zac Goldsmith was
politically of the right; he believed in affiliated to his uncle before becoming one of his first ministerial appointments. He
localisation and argued that central editor of The Ecologist. Ben went into the was given a job in Defra, the environment
government was too far removed from City and began to push for investment in department, as well as a role in international
communities to be genuinely accountable. green technologies. Both made donations development; he also had the right to
Although traditionally seen as a lefty cause, to the Green Party but otherwise remained attend cabinet. Later, after losing his seat
over the years environmentalism has been at arm’s length. Ben once called the Greens in the December election, he was given
hijacked by the far right, who have used a place in the Lords so he could stay on
it to argue against immigration and for as environment minister. One source
population control. Teddy Goldsmith The Goldsmiths, both close to the department said: “When it
famously addressed a far-right rally in ardent Brexiteers, had comes to the environment agenda, No 10
France, prompting half of the Ecologist looks to Zac rather than [George] Eustice.”
editorial team to walk out. the prime minister Eustice, the environment secretary, comes
He moved in a circle of similarly wealthy surrounded as Britain from an old farming family and is seen as
SHUTTERSTOCK

and well-connected greens. There was an ally of the National Farming Union. Yet
Aspinall, who kept a tiger cub and two bears prepared to leave the EU increasingly he is talking Goldsmith’s
in the garden of his flat in Eaton Square and language. Launching new policies on

The Sunday Times Magazine • 23


trees and peatlands last month, Eustice and trustees for generations to come”.
announced plans for a “rewilding task Traditionally, though, the Tory focus has
force”. He talked dreamily about the been on the landowners and the
reintroduction of golden eagles and wildcats stewardship of the countryside, while
to England’s rolling hills and the licensed Labour has pushed awareness around
release of beavers to the nation’s rivers. climate change and carbon emissions.
Rewilding is an idea key to the Goldsmith Today CEN wraps both these together as
world view. Both Zac and Ben are fundamental to the Conservative vision.
passionate about the form of conservation “In many ways it’s very clever politically
that advocates reintroducing keystone where the Conservative Party is moving,”
species to restore the landscape to its Dyer says. “They are seeking to reach out
pre-industrial form and is touted as a to a broader demographic audience in the
solution to everything from carbon capture SHEIKH UP Teddy Goldsmith, Zac and Ben’s 18 to 24-year-old voting group. There’s
to flooding. Last year Ben ran into problems uncle, campaigning with a camel, 1974 a growing recognition that these
in Somerset when there were claims that environmental issues really matter.”
he released deer and wild boar from his and create “important opportunities for the For Caroline Lucas, though, Conservative
estate deliberately, which he has denied. next generation of farmers”. environmentalism is full of contradictions.
His influence has grown regardless As Sir William Worsley, the chair of the She points to the controversy over Robert
thanks to his role on the CEN. It calls Forestry Commission, said last month: Jenrick and the billion-pound development
itself a parliamentary caucus: MPs sign up “In part it’s about persuading sheep farmers on the Isle of Dogs and a proposed coal
and agree to promote its subject areas in to become foresters. There’s a lot of poor mine in Cumbria as good examples of
parliament; in exchange the group provides sheep land that could well be suitable political incoherence. “They will adopt
promotional material for election campaigns. for tree planting.” This will have huge parts of the green agenda that don’t give
More than 100 Conservative MPs are implications for the shape of the British them ideological indigestion — that don’t
currently on board; alumni include Thérèse landscape. Fierce debate is raging in and threaten the economic system.”
Coffey, Greg Hands and Richard Benyon, around Defra about what this woodland Those frictions are starting to cause
the latest minister to be appointed to Defra. creation will look like. Some argue for mass problems. In March it was reported that
“While Zac has been doing the ministerial planting of profitable crops such as pine Carrie Symonds had tried to push Eustice
stuff, Ben is doing the behind-the-scenes and birch; others prefer mixed broadleaf out of his job and there are rumours he will
stuff, building a real base of thinking and woodland, which improves biodiversity. not survive the next reshuffle. Meanwhile,
policy development within the Tory party,” The Goldsmiths believe land should be the Tory backbencher Steve Baker plans to
Dyer says. In 2018 Ben was appointed as a left to regenerate on its own. make the cost of decarbonisation “his next
trustee at Defra under Michael Gove. While rewilding is fashionable among great crusade”. Baker, as former chair of the
By the time Britain was preparing to leave the Westminster greenies, in some rural European Research Group, caused huge
the EU, the Goldsmiths, both of whom are parts of the country it is viewed with problems for Theresa May on Brexit and
ardent Brexiteers, had the prime minister caution. Michael Sly, a commercial arable last year was a thorn in Johnson’s side by
surrounded. Johnson’s father, Stanley, is on farmer near Peterborough, says: “We’ve a rallying anti-lockdown sentiments on the
the board of the CEN, which is now run by population that needs feeding; you can’t eat backbenches. In Downing Street the
Sam Hall, Michael Gove’s former special a landscape.” While Ben Goldsmith insists prospect of the self-proclaimed Tory “hard
adviser. His predecessor was Sam Richard, rewilding doesn’t mean no farming at all, man” gathering the troops is unsettling.
who is now Boris Johnson’s climate adviser but farming “in a wilder way”, Sly remains For Johnson it feeds into a bigger
at No 10. There is a Goldsmith ally unconvinced. “It feels like we are going back dilemma: how to appeal to the younger
everywhere Johnson turns. It is against to the early Victorian period; it is a wealthy environmentally conscious voter without
this backdrop that the conversations about landed class re-establishing itself in the abandoning core Conservative principles
Britain’s post-EU future have taken place. country,” he says. “It is their plaything.” regarding the free market and free trade.
Caroline Lucas, the Green MP for Dr Nick Fenwick, head of policy at the The outcry over the proposed free trade
Brighton Pavilion, says to some extent there Farmers’ Union of Wales, describes it as agreement with Australia is one example;
is now broad agreement. “There is a general “arrogant”. He says: “We’ve been farming environmentalists complain about the
acceptance of the idea of public money for sheep and cattle here for around 6,000 incoherence of encouraging farmers here
public good. In other words, post-Brexit any years. To try and turn the clock back to what to work sustainably, while opening the way
financial support that goes to the farming it was like 10,000 years ago is a romantic for beef to be imported all the way from
community has to be supporting landscape notion from an urban viewpoint. We don’t Australia, where cattle farming takes place
and environmental farming.” sit around in rural Wales deciding how on an industrial level.
According to the climate change people in Kensington should change the Craig Bennett, chief executive of the
committee, which advises the government, way they live and make an income.” Wildlife Trusts, believes the balance is
land use will need to change substantially Green conservatism isn’t a new idea. tipping in the direction of the Goldsmiths
if the government is to hit its legally It was Margaret Thatcher who declared that and Carrie Johnson. “My guess would be that
enshrined goal of eliminating greenhouse “it is we Conservatives who are not merely George Eustice was made secretary of state
gases by 2050. Agriculture currently friends of the Earth — we are its guardians to try to keep farmers happy during Brexit,”
accounts for 10 per cent of the country’s he says. “But looking ahead to the next
emissions. Farming land needs to switch election we know the environment will be
from being a producer of carbon emissions While rewilding is very important, particularly among young
to removing them from the atmosphere. fashionable among the and floating voters, so the Conservatives
With this in mind ministers have drawn will be looking now and thinking where
up contentious plans for a one-off lump- Westminster greenies, they want to position themselves.”
sum payment for older farmers to step aside in some rural parts it is The Japanese prime minister, Yoshihide
to make way for a more green-minded Suga, in Cornwall this weekend for another
generation. Eustice says the scheme viewed with caution G7 summit, would do well to prepare for
would help them “retire with dignity” another discussion about whales n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 25


THE
GREEN
PowER
LIST
J oss Garman was one of the first
to be arrested. Before dawn on
a Monday in October 2007, the
22-year-old and 50 other environmental
He was convicted of aggravated trespass
and fined several hundred pounds.
It was no shock to him. A veteran of
direct action, by then he had already
The Sunday Times science
editor Ben Spencer introduces
the influential British minds
engaging with the world’s
biggest problem: how to avert
environmental catastrophe

him of terrorism. Nearly a decade and


a half later he lives a very different life.
The UK director of the influential
European Climate Foundation, he
campaigners invaded Kingsnorth power been arrested more than 20 times. As has worked in parliament, directed
station in Kent. Eon, which owned and a co-founder of the campaign group Plane think tanks and has established strong
operated the station, had applied for Stupid, Garman had seen the door of his links within government and to MPs
planning permission to build a coal- student house kicked down following across the political spectrum. He is, in
burning facility on the site — the first of a protest at an airport. The police accused short, a key member of the
a wave of new power stations planned environmental establishment.
for the country. His story is not uncommon.
The strategy for the protest was The following list of influential
simple: flood the site with so many environmentalists, climate scientists
activists that the security team could and politicians includes several former
not halt them all, and shut down the activists who now occupy influential
station. “We stayed in a farmhouse in roles in and around government. Tony
bunks the night before, got up at 3am Juniper, a former director of Friends
and all got into minibuses,” Garman, of the Earth and a veteran of the 1990s
now 35, recalls. “We climbed the fence Newbury Bypass protests, is now
and went through these dusty tunnels.” chair of Natural England. Bryony
Garman chained himself to a Worthington, also previously of Friends
conveyor belt to prevent coal from of the Earth, now sits in the House of
reaching the furnaces. “I was there Greenpeace activists at the Kingsnorth Lords and runs an environmental
about eight hours before I was arrested.” power station protest in October 2007 charity with a £70 million annual
budget. Craig Bennett, yet another
Isabella Tree
Friends of the Earth alumnus, is the
current CEO of the Wildlife Trusts.
Author and conservationist “I’m increasingly
So has the green movement finally
grown up? Garman believes the goals
Tree is the author of the
rewilder’s handbook Wilding,
vocal because I’m
have shifted fundamentally. “The
nature of the challenge is different
which chronicles the 20-year
transformation of the 3,500-acre
running out of time”
today,” he says. The year after the Knepp Castle estate in West
Kingsnorth protest government plans Sussex, which Tree and her husband have
for a new fleet of coal-powered fire turned over to nature. She is currently one
stations were quietly shelved. of the most influential environmental
By 2020 only 1.6 per cent of British thinkers in Britain. This was highlighted last
electricity came from coal, compared month when the environment secretary,
with more than a third in 2007. “We George Eustice, referred to her ideas in
have the greenest electricity in the a speech on the future of the English
world,” Garman says. “We’ve made landscape, to the delight of his audience.
huge progress and we have the carbon Rewilding’s advocates tout it as a solution
targets in place. The real nature of to many of our problems: it promises flood
the challenge now is: how do you mitigation, biodiversity improvement,
actually deliver?” carbon sequestration and a balm for our
Emma Pinchbeck, 34, also emerged battered mental health. Tree, 56, has hosted
from the environmental movement. politicians at Knepp and was recently
A former campaigner at WWF-UK, invited to discuss the government’s action
she was appointed last year to be CEO plan for trees with Defra officials. While the
of Energy UK, becoming the face of concept of rewilding is fashionable among
the industry Garman was making environmentalists, many farmers oppose it.
trouble for all those years ago. But Tree says: “Rewilding shouldn’t be seen
“The thing that I loved most about as the enemy of farming. If anything it is
being in an NGO was that your only its greatest ally. It can restore soils, reduce
job is to tell the truth,” Pinchbeck says. flooding, clean water, support pollinating
“I miss the purity of that but I love insects and reduce the need for pesticides.
my job now, the combination of the The way forward is a meshing between
moral mission with the practical rewilding and regenerative agriculture.”
delivery, the pragmatism. I can see
change happening every single day.
Chris Packham
“The really big challenges in the
Alok Sharma Wildlife presenter and conservationist
President of Cop26
next decade will be around technology Best known for TV shows such as the BBC’s
progress, which involves quite boring If the Cop26 UN climate summit, Springwatch and The Really Wild Show,
government policy work. But that’s due to take place in Glasgow in Packham has introduced entire
why I choose to do what I do, because November, is to be a success, generations to conservation and wildlife.
I can see that’s where we need to do much depends on Sharma. The But in recent years he has become more
the most acceleration.” 53-year-old, who will preside politically active, co-founding in 2019
For Pinchbeck, her upbringing over the conference, has the task of getting the campaign group Wild Justice. The
in the Gloucestershire town of the US, China, India and the powerful organisation saw immediate success,
Stroud was instrumental to her negotiating blocs of the developing world mounting a challenge to the right of
environmentalism. “It’s a mix of to agree to play ball. To this end he has landowners to shoot 16 bird species
traditional small-c conservatism with spent the past few months flying around seen as pests — including crows, magpies
a mad, creative alternative art scene,” the globe on a diplomatic crusade. He has and wood pigeons. Natural England
she says. “When I was growing up already found a strong ally in John Kerry, acknowledged the group’s argument and
there were always protests on the high Joe Biden’s climate envoy. Last month’s withdrew the licences with 36 hours’ notice,
street, against the backdrop of this meeting of G7 environment ministers, triggering fury across rural communities.
really pretty English town.” which Sharma hosted, secured a crucial Packham, who has also fiercely criticised
That same town in 2018 witnessed agreement to stop funding overseas coal. badger culling, has been targeted as a
the formation of Extinction Rebellion, He says: “Cop26 is our last hope of limiting result, with dead crows, a fox and a badger
a protest movement that burst into global warming to 1.5C and building a left in front of his New Forest home during
being in the front room of Gail brighter future of green jobs and cleaner air. the past two years. “We can’t have a
ALAMY, CHRIS WATT, FRANCESCO GUIDCINI, WILL ROSE©GREENPEACE

Bradbrook’s council house in Stroud. The single most powerful thing we can do letterbox in our door any more,” he says,
Bradbrook, 49, insists direct action is to get there? Consign coal to history.” because excrement was repeatedly
still needed. She was arrested just last pushed through. Nevertheless he is
month on suspicion of conspiracy to
cause criminal damage and fraud
Gail Bradbrook determined to keep campaigning. “The
reason I’m increasingly vocal is that I’m now
Co-founder of Extinction Rebellion
linked to her group’s attacks on banks 60 years old,” he says. “I’m running
and other financial institutions. A mother of two with a PhD out of time, and I’ve got this burden
“We stand on the shoulders of in molecular biophysics, on my shoulders. We’ve lost 68 per cent of
those trying to get action for many, Bradbrook co-founded the the world’s wildlife, the human population
many years,” she says. “But what Extinction Rebellion protest has shot up to seven-point-something
we need right now is to go into movement three years ago. The billion and the world has warmed up by a
emergency mode. We have to go all out inspiration for her movement? A session degree. And that’s all been on my watch.”
to get change.” on hallucinogenic drugs while in

The Sunday Times Magazine • 27


Costa Rica in 2016. She described the
effects in a video posted online in 2019:
“This voice said ‘resistance’. I’ve never
“The aim is to make
been the same since.” XR, as her
organisation is known, thrust itself into
sure no child goes
the spotlight in the spring of 2018, blocking
bridges and causing havoc across London.
through what Ella
While many question the group’s tactics,
there is no doubt it contributed to driving
went through”
climate change up the political agenda.
A few months later Theresa May
committed the UK to net zero carbon
Rosamund Adoo-Kissi-Debrah
Clean air campaigner
emissions by 2050, the first G7 country
to do so. “We said we wanted net zero by In December the coroner Phillip Barlow
2025, but the government has set an found that the death in 2013 of nine-year-old
interim target of 78 per cent by 2035, ” Ella Adoo-Kissi-Debrah was contributed to
Bradbrook says. “To some extent our by her exposure to “excessive air pollution”.
demands have been met, but not fully. The verdict — the first time air pollution had
But we’ve shifted the window.” been listed as a cause of death in the UK
— was the result of a long campaign by her
Carrie Johnson mother, Rosamund. Ella (above right) lived 25
metres from South Circular Road in Lewisham,
Communications director of
southeast London, where air pollution levels
the Aspinall Foundation
regularly exceeded the annual legal limit.
The prime minister’s wife is Rosamund (below right), who set up the
widely regarded as the key to his Ella Roberta Family Foundation after her
new-found environmentalism. daughter’s death, says: “The first aim was to
Carrie, 33, who first met Boris find out how Ella died. But it was also to make
Johnson during his 2012 London sure no child goes through what she went
mayoral campaign, is a passionate through.” In April the coroner published a
conservationist and a patron of the report calling for national pollution limits to
Conservative Animal Welfare Foundation. be reduced in light of Ella’s death.
She also works for the Aspinall Foundation,

The Joe Brindle


18, Wiltshire
Dr Ella Gilbert
28, London

young
What to do when your school isn’t “Climate scientist, presenter,
providing adequate education on boxer” is how Reading University’s
climate change? If you’re Brindle Dr Ella Gilbert describes herself.
you launch Teach the Future, Founder of an Antarctic boxing

ones
a campaign calling for better club during her PhD fieldwork,
education on the climate crisis, Gilbert’s passion for climate
offering support to teachers and science is matched by her
mobilising youth volunteers across enthusiasm for communication.
the UK. Oh, and draft a bill — the She has provided commentaries
Climate Emergency Education for National Geographic, CNN
Act — to prompt parliament to and Vice, and also has her own
take more action, while continuing YouTube channel called Dr Gilbz,
to organise and attend climate which hosts videos on subjects
strikes. He recently stepped back such as “What on earth is the
from Teach the Future to “make
Mya-Rose Craig Interdecadal Pacific Oscillation”
19, Somerset
more of my gap year”, but plans (answer: “a climate pattern that
to carry on campaigning and A 14-publisher bidding war schleps warm water around the
Greta Thunberg is far working with NGOs at university. over the autobiography of the Pacific in distinct cycles”) and
British-Bangladeshi ornithologist
from the only young and activist last year cemented
person campaigning her position as one of Britain’s
for urgent change. leading naturalists. Her Birdgirl
blog has had five million visitors,
Katherine Fidler while the racist trolling it also
hails six brilliant attracted prompted Craig to
found Black2Nature, a youth
Brits under 30 with organisation encouraging more
ingenious ideas — people from ethnic minorities to
engage with nature. In 2020 she
and the drive to make received an honorary doctorate
a difference from Bristol University.

28 • The Sunday Times Magazine


which runs two wildlife parks in Kent. visiting farms with the goal of buying them
Carrie is also thought to have influenced up and turning them into rewilded havens.
the decision to phase out the UK badger
cull — to the extent that the National
Farmers’ Union mounted a judicial review
Joan Edwards
Director of marine conservation
when a planned cull in Derbyshire was
at the Wildlife Trusts
cancelled, claiming Carrie had influenced
the “irrational” decision. The High Court A marine scientist for 30 years,
rejected the case, ruling that there was Joan Edwards, 57, has spent her
“nothing irrational” about what had been career mobilising support for
a “political judgment”. legal protections for the sea. She
led a coalition of environmental
organisations that pushed through the
Craig Bennett Joan Edwards wants offshore wind turbines
to be banned from 30 per cent of the sea Marine and Coastal Access Act in 2009,
CEO of the Wildlife Trusts
paving the way for a “blue belt” of marine
Last autumn Bennett came belts”. Bennett, 49, admits he was surprised: conservation zones established around the
up with a new concept for “When we launched it last year it was just a coast. But Edwards thinks we need to go
conservation. More than 80 years sketch of an idea. And within a month Boris further, and wants 30 per cent of the world’s
after “green belts” were first Johnson was quoting it in his speech.” oceans to be covered by “highly protected
implemented as a way to control It is a mark of the influence of Bennett marine areas” where fishing, drilling of the
BEN GURR, ELLA ROBERTA ESTATE, GETTY IMAGES, SHUTTERSTOCK

expanding cities, he proposed a new “wild and the organisation he joined last April. At seabeds, even offshore wind turbines are
belt” designation to protect Britain’s nature. his previous employer, Friends of the Earth, banned. “We think that’s essential because
Green belts predominantly are made up with whom he spent 20 years on and off we don’t even know what a recovering
of intensively farmed agricultural land, including five as CEO, he developed a marine environment looks like,” she says.
sprayed with pesticides and home to very reputation as a “modern eco-general” —
little wildlife. “[They are] not actually very mobilising opposition to fracking during
green,” Bennett says. Wild belts, however, the David Cameron years. But the Wildlife
Tony Juniper
Chair of Natural England
would be reserved for nature and prioritise Trusts is far more influential in the UK, with
biodiversity. The idea has quickly caught more than 870,000 members to Friends of A world-renowned
on. The prime minister, speaking at the the Earth’s 100,000. It also has a deeper reach environmentalist, Juniper, 60,
Conservative Party conference in October, into middle England, a collective turnover has spent his career working for
said his vision of a future Britain included of £157 million and owns 2,600 nature campaign groups such as Friends
people “going for picnics in the new wild reserves. Bennett spends much of his time of the Earth and WWF-UK

“Why you should be a cloud nerd”. website, skepticalscience.com, getting single-use plastic bottles overwhelmed by the massive
Her advice for talking to climate that has a list of myths often off supermarket shelves, the issues. Make the small steps,
change deniers? “Try not to be too touted and the evidence that campaign has flourished into a because it has a way bigger
combative . . . talk to the person shows why they’re wrong.” multifaceted movement, helping impact than you might think.”
rather than the perception of what schools reduce consumption, Amy: “For corporations and
they represent. If you’re in a providing learning resources and governments, I would say really
conversation on YouTube or
Dara McAnulty encouraging children to organise listen to what consumers are
17, Co Down
Facebook, it’s not necessarily litter picks — Amy and Ella have demanding, and to the urgency
the climate denier you’re actually A Northern Irish naturalist, themselves been responsible for — especially from young people
communicating with, it’s the McAnulty has used a talent for collecting more than 90,000 because we’re going to grow up to
people silently watching, so writing to amplify his campaigning pieces of plastic waste. be future consumers. Listen to
it’s important to maintain with colossal success, writing two In their own words: what we’re demanding and don’t
compassion and clearly lay out books aimed at inspiring a new Ella: “For individuals, it’s try to bury it in greenwashing
the arguments. There’s a fantastic cohort of nature lovers. His important not to feel too or marketing campaigns.”
multiple-award-winning debut,
Diary of a Young Naturalist,
explores both his relationship
with the natural world and
neurodiversity, and was serialised
on BBC Radio 4. He is the
youngest recipient of both the
Wainwright Prize for UK Nature
Writing and the RSPB Medal
ALAMY, FABIO DE PAOLO / EYEVINE, KATE PETERS/EYEVINE

for conservation.

Amy and Ella Meek


17 and 15, Nottingham
While many found home schooling
during the pandemic difficult, the
Meek sisters found it afforded
them more time to work on their
charity, Kids Against Plastic.
Founded with the ambitious aim of

The Sunday Times Magazine • 29


but now the poacher has turned pounds, the 35-year-old is a key player in
gamekeeper. In 2019 he was appointed chair
Joss Garman the environmental establishment, with
UK director of the European
of the government agency Natural England. strong links to the government’s Cop26
Climate Foundation
He promised to build bridges with farmers’ unit, MPs across the political spectrum and
groups after they raised doubts about his While at university Garman journalists across Fleet Street.
appointment. Despite his radical past, his co-founded the campaign group
ability to network has never been in doubt Plane Stupid, which opposed the
— he has served as special adviser on third runway at Heathrow. He
Lord Goldsmith of Richmond Park
Minister of state for Pacific and
sustainability to the Prince of Wales. co-ordinated several high-profile
the Environment
protests, including draping a huge banner
from the roof of the Houses of Parliament. Zac Goldsmith, 46, is considered
Dr Emily Shuckburgh By the time he graduated he had been to be a key driver of the more
Climate scientist at the University
arrested more than 20 times. Some radical green policies in
of Cambridge
14 years later he runs the UK branch of government. His younger brother
A mathematician and climate one of the most influential philanthropic Ben, 40, also plays a key role in
scientist, Shuckburgh, 47, is environmental organisations in the world: the Conservative Environment Network.
one of the country’s best the European Climate Foundation funds Lord Goldsmith says: “The single most
communicators of the science of think tanks such as the Energy and Climate important thing governments, individuals,
climate change. She is co-author Intelligence Unit, online publications such businesses and civil society can and must
— with the Prince of Wales and Tony as Carbon Brief and political bodies such as do is to throw ourselves into protecting
Juniper — of the Ladybird book Climate the Conservative Environment Network. ecosystems on land and sea, and restoring
Change. The brainchild of Prince Charles, Now in charge of a budget worth millions of those that have been degraded. The magic
the book provides a simple guide to an of helping nature recover — beyond saving
incredibly complex subject and sets out beautiful species — is that in doing so we’re
ideas that will soon affect everyone’s lives.
Shuckburgh is currently most focused on
“We needed a visual tackling so many other problems we face:
climate change, hunger, poverty, pollution,
her role as the director of Cambridge Zero,
the University of Cambridge’s climate
way to show the even pandemics.”

change initiative, which is drawing up


blueprints for a zero-carbon future.
world is warming” Baroness worthington
Co-director of the Quadrature
A former government adviser, she also
Climate Foundation
leads a national programme investigating
artificial intelligence and its applications More than anyone else, Bryony
for predicting environmental risk. Worthington is considered to
have been the driving force
behind the 2008 Climate
Emma Pinchbeck 1890 1920 1950 1980 2010 Change Act. The legislation
CEO of Energy UK
for the first time made emissions cuts
Last July Pinchbeck was legally binding, compelling successive
headhunted to be the face of the
Professor Ed Hawkins governments to take action on global
Climate scientist at Reading University
British energy industry. Coming warming. First as an activist at Friends
from Renewable UK, the trade In the summer of 2016 Hawkins of the Earth, then as a civil servant,
body for the wind and solar was watching the opening Worthington built support for and then
industry, and as the former head of climate ceremony of the Rio Olympics helped draft the necessary legislation.
change and energy at WWF-UK, she was when he recognised a familiar The key, she says, was creating a “legal
a perfect fit for the sector’s commitment to dancing shape on the screen. metronome” that set five-yearly carbon
decarbonisation. But Pinchbeck, 34, admits “They had a little segment about climate budgets. “They don’t stop coming, no
she had initial concerns that she was being change and up popped my spiral graphic, matter which government is in power.”
hired for PR purposes. “We had a long being sent out to about a billion people,” Worthington, 49, was made a Labour peer
conversation about it at my interview,” she he says. The graphic, which expands in a in 2011 and served on Ed Miliband’s front
says. “From my side, it was about how much circular motion, illustrates the way global bench before leaving the party in 2017,
I could use my experience to help the temperatures have risen over time. Another when Jeremy Corbyn was in charge, to
industry transform. I took the job because of Hawkins’s images (above), which uses become a crossbencher. She now runs the
I was content it wasn’t greenwashing. That coloured stripes to represent the same Quadrature Climate Foundation, one of the
has continued to be the case.” trend, has appeared on magazine covers biggest philanthropic climate organisations,
It has not all been plain sailing. “The and the stage of concerts and festivals. “We which has an annual budget of £70 million.
energy sector is fully on board with need to reach people who don’t normally
decarbonisation,” she says. “But there are
differences of opinion about how we get
engage with science,” says Hawkins, 44.
“And so we needed a very simple visual way
Angus Lunn
Northumbrian conservationist
there.” So far, however, the industry can be to communicate the key message that the
proud of its record. Cheap wind and solar world is warming.” Aside from his Described by friends as the
power has caused fossil fuel use to plummet communications work, Hawkins is highly archetypal “boots-on-the-
in recent years. “It’s been a fantastic success respected as a climate scientist. He is a ground” nature conservationist,
story in the UK,” says Pinchbeck, who has a lead author on a key Intergovernmental Lunn, 87, is credited with
20-month-old daughter. “She’ll be almost Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) report due the restoration of an entire
the age I am now in 2050, by which time we to be published in August, which will provide ecosystem in Northumberland. The retired
will have to have decarbonised the global world leaders with the latest assessment of university lecturer spent decades battling
economy. I think about that all the time. how quickly the world is warming. the Forestry Commission over the planting
I am deadly serious about this.” of Kielder Forest, the largest manmade

30 • The Sunday Times Magazine


our way of life. And the move to zero carbon
is permanent, so let’s celebrate being the
generation that will get the job done.”

Caroline Lucas
Green Party MP for Brighton Pavilion
In 2010 Caroline Lucas became
the first Green to be elected to
parliament. More than a decade
on she has been re-elected three
times, increasing her share of
the vote each time. She remains the sole
Green in the Commons, but the party,
which she has twice served as leader, is
on the rise. The local elections last
month saw a record result for the party,
increasing its number of council seats by
99 to 155 and making gains in regions of
the UK that have never elected Greens
before. Lucas, 60, has earned the respect of
MPs across the party benches. She is a vocal
member of the Commons Environmental
“At Cop26 we may have our last Audit Committee. Asked what would be the
single most important action the
opportunity to make necessary change” government could take on climate change,
she says: “Redesign the economy to make
meeting people’s needs within the Earth’s
Sir David Attenborough recent years these have done more than
simply entertain. His Blue Planet II series, finite natural limits the Treasury’s No 1 goal,
Broadcaster
broadcast in 2017, triggered a consumer rather than the destructiveness of infinite
About 20 different species — including backlash against plastic packaging and economic growth.”
a spider, a butterfly and a dinosaur — his recent programmes have focused
are named after Attenborough, as well heavily on climate change. In November
Derek Gow
ALAMY, BBC / SAM BARKER, CHRIS STARK, COURTESY OF EMILY SHUCKBURGH, EMMA PINCHBECK, RICHARD CLARK, SOUTH WEST NEWS SERVICE, SHUTTERSTOCK, UNIVERSITY OF READING

as an entire constellation. As the 95-year- he will address the Cop26 UN climate


Guerilla rewilder
old explained in a 2017 interview: “It’s easy conference in Glasgow, in his
to be a national treasure if you don’t have to government-appointed role as “people’s A decade ago beavers escaped
do controversial things.” That, however, is advocate” to the summit. Addressing the from Gow’s nature reserve on
to undersell his influence. His overwhelming UN Security Council in February at the the Devon-Cornwall border.
contribution to environmentalism has invitation of Boris Johnson, he described “A badger dug into one of our
been to inspire a love of nature — he has Cop26 as possibly “our last opportunity to central holding pens and a bunch
made more than 100 documentaries make the necessary step change” towards of beavers got out,” he says. They have
stretching across seven decades. But in protecting the planet. spread along the River Tamar, where several
generations now live in complete freedom.
Natural England reported Gow, 56, to the
woodland in England. “Until the 1980s it the interim target of cutting emissions police, but the officers decided to take no
was a completely philistine organisation,” by 78 per cent by 2035, which was adopted action. “They decided it was an act of God,”
he says. “They were hellbent on planting by Boris Johnson in April. A strong he says. “Because we did not knowingly let
conifers on every bit of land they could communicator, Stark is highly respected by them out, that was that.”
get their hands on.” He produced the first the government. One source said he is “the A time is approaching when the police
detailed vegetation map of the area in number-cruncher in chief, a calming voice would not even be involved. Gow, formerly
the 1950s, identifying the Border Mires of reassurance to ministers grappling with a conventional farmer whose land is
network of peat bogs in and around Kielder, what to do next”. Stark says: “We have a increasingly given over to breeding and
the first step in the process of saving them lot to do in the UK, changes to transport, nurturing endangered species such as
from the foresters. His organisation, the changes in the home, new industries, new wildcats, water voles and white storks, is a
Northumberland Wildlife Trust, then jobs, but these will be positive overall for hero to the rewilding movement. And his
leased pockets of land from the commission ideas are gradually becoming mainstream.
in order to ensure their survival. The environment secretary, George
Eustice, last month announced the creation
of a “species reintroduction taskforce”,
Chris Stark which will explore the prospect of bringing
CEO of the Climate Change Committee
back a raft of animals including golden
The Climate Change Committee, eagles, wildcats and pine martens to parts
overseen by Chris Stark, devises of England, as well as further beaver
the five-year carbon budgets that releases. Gow says it is about time. “What
determine the pace of Britain’s beavers do is repair the terrible damage we
decarbonisation. Stark, 42, was have done. They are the healers of the Earth’s
appointed in 2018, with the government crust. But do we need another consultation?
committing to the legally binding Net Zero Wildcats are among the endangered species Learning is good, but learning at the
target the following year. Stark also drew up nurtured by rewilding advocate Derek Gow expense of actually doing is fatal.” n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 31


Life
on
the
inside
The photographer
Kieran Doherty
documents the
isolation of his
elderly parents,
who spent the
past 15 months
shielding at home

Doherty’s father,
Hugh, 82, conducts
as his grandchildren
sing Happy Birthday
in the rain
T he past 15 months have been
life-changing for Kieran Doherty
and his family, as they have been for so
many of us. His parents, Hugh and Isobel,
are both in their eighties and classed as
medically vulnerable, so had to shield in
their Hampshire home. As a freelance
photographer, Doherty saw his work
dry up overnight.
In a support bubble with his parents,
he decided to make them the focus of
a deeply personal project. “For my own
sanity I needed to stay creative,” he says.
The resulting images, capturing their
daily highs and lows through those
difficult months, were shot on rolls
of expired film he had found, then
processed in a self-built darkroom.
While his parents were fortunate not
to contract the virus, Hugh’s health
began to deteriorate. He had a bad fall
in September, then earlier this year he
spent two weeks in hospital with the lung
condition idiopathic pulmonary fibrosis.
“Dad said this has been the toughest
year of his life,” Doherty says. “He is still
struggling but this is not a sob story,
it’s the complete opposite. His and my
mother’s resilience is astounding.”
There have been happy moments too,
not least when Hugh received his first
Covid vaccination — one step towards
freedom after such a long time confined.
At the end of last month the fully
vaccinated couple were able to see their
grandchildren in the flesh once again.
What do Doherty’s parents make of
his project? “They are not used to being
the centre of attention,” he says, “but
I think they know how much these
photographs will mean to future
generations of our family. They certainly KIERAN DOHERTY

mean an awful lot to me.” n

kierandoherty.com

TOP LEFT TOP RIGHT


Hugh prepares to Hugh and Isobel
negotiate stairs watch the funeral
fitted with a new of a family member
NHS handrail via Zoom

MIDDLE LEFT RIGHT


The water from a The couple eat
hot shower brings Christmas dinner
some welcome relief on their own for the
to Hugh’s back pain first time since 1967

LEFT
Doherty’s parents
make a racket
during the weekly
Clap for Our Carers
TOP LEFT ABOVE RIGHT
Hugh’s breathing A paramedic The couple share
becomes shallow, so attends to Hugh a tender moment
he takes a moment while Isobel keeps after being reunited
to rest in the hallway her distance at home

LEFT BELOW BOTTOM RIGHT


Isobel checks her Hugh calls home A health worker
husband’s overnight from his bed during gives Hugh the first
bag as he is lifted his two-week stay of his two Covid
into an ambulance in hospital vaccinations
KIERAN DOHERTY
Cooking with floral ingredients is not just for professional chefs
The Dish
— it’s easier than you think and the flavours are divine

Say it with flowers

1
a sieve, set over a bowl and leave
to drain the excess water for
10-15 min while you get on with
making the rest of the filling.

02 Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in


a pan over a medium heat, then add
the pancetta and the courgettes
Skye McAlpine and fry gently for 8-10 min until
Baked courgette the courgettes have softened and

F or the longest time I only ate


courgette flowers when I saw
them on the menu in restaurants:
blossoms the pancetta is cooked through.
Take off the heat, add the mint
(reserve some for decoration), then
it felt daunting to try cooking I’m not usually one for faffing use a food processor or blender to
them at home. That it’s far easier around with a piping bag but it blitz everything to a thick paste.
than it looks to deep-fry a makes this simple recipe even
courgette blossom has been one of easier. You can use a freezer bag 03 In a bowl, combine the
my happiest culinary revelations or similar — just fill it with the courgette paste with the drained
— and that you can cook them all courgette cream and snip off ricotta and grated parmesan and
sorts of other delectable ways too. the corner. To make the recipe mix with a wooden spoon. Crack
I like them in savoury tarts and vegetarian, omit the pancetta and in the egg and stir again. Season
quiches, on pizza, in pasta sauce add extra grated parmesan. to taste with salt and pepper.
SHARE AND SAVE with a hint of saffron, perhaps, and
You can share and a few juicy prawns, or stuffed and 04 Spoon the filling into a piping
save recipes from baked (as here). I also like them SERVES bag, then very gently prise open
our digital editions raw, the buttery, saffron-tinted
petals coarsely torn and tossed
4 people the petals of the courgette flowers
and use your fingers to remove the
casually through a salad. INGREDIENTS pistils. Pipe a generous dollop of
Of course edible flowers are 100g ricotta filling into the heart of each flower.
frivolously extravagant — they can 2 tbsp olive oil Close the petals and gently twist
be tricky to source — but therein 80g pancetta them together to seal.
lies part of their charm. If you 2 medium courgettes,
don’t have a garden (or don’t grow sliced into rounds 05 Arrange the flowers snugly in
them in your garden), you can A handful of fresh mint leaves an ovenproof dish, sprinkle over
often buy them in greengrocers 50g grated parmesan, plus 1 tbsp the remaining parmesan and set
or from Natoora (natoora.co.uk), 1 egg in the oven for 10 min until lightly
which now delivers nationwide 12 courgette flowers golden and the cheese is melted.
(and I’ve heard reports of them Drizzle over the last of the olive
in Sainsbury’s before). 01 Heat the oven to 160C (180C oil, scatter over a few mint leaves
Continuing on the floral theme, non-fan). Spoon the ricotta into if you like and serve warm.
another favourite ingredient of
mine is rose. A dash of rosewater
in cooking and baking transports
me back to my childhood and the
box of rose creams my mother
would ration out for special
occasions. Just a dash of the heady
SKYE MCALPINE FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE

scented water (which you can


find in the baking aisles of most
supermarkets) works a kind of
ethereal magic on the plainest
light sponge or dark chocolate
cake. Try a teaspoonful with
strawberries and a little sugar;
as the berries macerate they
produce the most delicate
pink, floral juices.

38 • The Sunday Times Magazine


2
INGREDIENTS pop in the oven to roast for
Rainbow salad For the salad 40-45 min, until soft but not
2 whole beetroot, leaves removed shrunken. Set to one side and
This salad is all about glorious, 1 tbsp olive oil leave to cool, then peel off the
extravagant, intense colour. I like A few handfuls of green leaves skins and slice the beetroot into
a mix of buttery, crisp green leaves A handful of sweet garden peas thin rounds.
with something peppery, like 8-10 edible flowers
watercress, rocket and nasturtiums. 02 To make the dressing, combine
Shelled and raw garden peas For the dressing all the ingredients together in a
make a nice addition to any salad. 1 tbsp English mustard small bowl and whisk with a fork.
Sometimes I like to crumble in 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar Season to taste.
a little feta too. (You can use 2 tbsp olive oil
ready-cooked, vacuum-packed 1 tsp honey 03 To make the salad, toss
beetroot as well.) together the green leaves, sliced
01 Heat the oven to 180C (200C beetroot and peas in a bowl.
non-fan). Put the beetroot in a Scatter over the edible flowers,
small roasting tray, drizzle over then drizzle the honey-mustard
SERVES
the olive oil and rub the beetroot dressing over the salad just
4 people all over, then season with salt and before serving.

The Sunday Times Magazine • 39


3
2 tbsp sugar 03 To make the Eton mess, hull
Rose Eton mess 1 tsp rosewater and halve the strawberries, toss
700ml thick double cream them into a bowl and then spoon
This is pretty much a classic Eton Rose petals, for decoration (optional) over the sugar and the rosewater.
mess. My only addition is a dash of Toss together and leave to
rosewater, a delicate complement 01 Heat the oven to 120C (140C macerate for 15-20 min.
not only to the flowery strawberries non-fan). Grease and line a baking
but also to the richness of the tray with parchment paper. Whisk 04 Meanwhile in a second bowl,
double cream. Feel free to buy the egg whites in an immaculately whisk the cream until stiff. Take
ready-made meringues from a clean bowl until frothy, then add care not to overwhisk it — you
The Dish

bakery or supermarket for ease. the sugar one spoonful at a time, want it pillowy and stiff enough
whisking all the while, until stiff that peaks form, but not clumpy
peaks form. like scrambled eggs. Crumble the
SERVES meringues into a large mixing
4-6 people 02 Spoon the glossy white mixture bowl or serving dish, add the
onto the tray in three or four whipped cream and mix together.
INGREDIENTS generous dollops. Place in the Now fold in the strawberries along
For the meringues middle of the oven and bake for with their syrupy pink juices.
2 egg whites 1 hour, then switch off the oven
100g caster sugar and leave the meringues in the 05 Serve immediately — decorate
oven (without opening the the dish with a few fresh rose
For the mess door) for at least a further hour, petals if you like before bringing
450g strawberries or even overnight. to the table n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 41


Lessons in longevity from an
Table Talk

old-school Italian charmer


register. Topiaried hedges, for around family and tradition,
Il Portico God’s sake: what self-respecting
professional neophile, what
specifically their Emilia-Romagna
background. The chef has been
Kensington kimchi and fermenting fetishist
perves over the likes of that?
with the business for 32 years.
When I ask how the daily special
Il Portico’s owner, James of roe deer is served — “shot near
Chiavarini, son of the original my father’s farm”; everything
padrone, brought it to my attention comes with a story — the answer is
by the dangerously subversive comical: “Our chef is still cooking
expedient of dropping me a line. in the Seventies.” So there’s a
Chiavarini is a bit of an occasional sauce of wild mushrooms, a touch
agitator, a grit in the oyster of of cream, perhaps something like
unhelpful councils and grasping marsala. It’s a barnstorming dish,
Marina O’Loughlin delivery platforms. He made vast quantities of extremely fine,
a lot of noise during lockdown rosy-pink and pleasingly gamey

H ow, in an atmosphere of
febrile novelty-seeking, do
you keep a restaurant full — never
about the fate of the restaurant
industry in general — and his in
particular, of course — writing
venison, genuinely more than
enough for two, the sauce more
dressing than swamp, with a
mind year after year but decade impassioned pieces in the popular hashtag of fried polenta batons
after decade? Il Portico has existed press (met, as is the way, with on the side. Yes, possibly a bit
in one shape or another for four comments such as “better off autumnal, but do you remember
generations of the same family. with Chinese takeaway”). He has the weather last month?
And I’d never noticed it. I’ve a podcast too, inviting all sorts I’m ahead of myself. We have
Il Portico walked past its Kensington High of interesting types to have lunch pasta first, blissfully chewy wriggles
277 Kensington Street frontage, but since it had no and sound off about the topics of strozzapreti (“priest stranglers”)
High Street, font-porn signage, no Big Green of the day. The restaurant may tossed through nuggets of frazzled
London W8 6NA; Egg smoke, no tiling or studied be old-school; Chiavarini’s prosciutto and oozy squacquerone
020 7602 6262, modernism or Georgian opium initiatives are anything but. cheese. Cappellacci are models of
famigliaportico.co.uk den paintwork, it simply didn’t This is a place that revolves their kind: delicate, eggy

The Sunday Times Magazine • 43


the place is mobbed. Even though
the food … I think the professional
term is “crap”. This doesn’t bother
the girl dirty dancing on the
pavement as the sound system
croaks out Tainted Love for the
third time. Or the chap behind
us who cracks his head on the
ground after falling off his chair.
Had he fallen into his pizza he’d
have undoubtedly bounced.
Either way, he’s feeling no pain.
No, I’m not going to name it. Plate of the nation
What would be the point? Ready-meal lasagne
Nobody eating here cares enough
about food to give a toss about that’s too fancy for
restaurant critics anyway. one’s microwave
Il Portico couldn’t be more
different. It could probably survive I was fantasising on Twitter
by doing the same: pizza and recently about a vast, béchamel-
commercial pasta and cheap wine rich lasagne and someone popped
dough, juicy braised veal shin STUFF OF DREAMS are good for profit margins. Not so up suggesting Charlie Bigham’s.
filling honking with aromatics, Cappellacci di good is delivering half a roe deer I’ve never been drawn to this brand
sage butter and parmesan to Ossobuco were on the plate. Or hand-making their — it seemed like a mix of low-rent
scoop into the dumplings’ al dente “honking with own gnocchi and cuttlefish ink ready meal and aspirational boujie,
nooks and crannies. I haven’t aromatics, sage butter linguine. Or using gloriously invented by someone a bit posh
eaten cappellacci this good since and parmesan” grassy olive oil. Or offering the and, um, chinless. But I’m always
Ferrara. It’s ballsy of them to be finest cheeses and salumi — DOP up for being schooled.
from Emilia-Romagna and not put — from the homeland. First hiccup: an oven cooking
lasagne on the menu, but it’s not That’s all joyful, obviously. But time of 35 min. Have posh people
that kind of restaurant — they this little place thrives because it not heard of microwaves? But no,
crowd-please in their own makes diners feel special. It is according to the packet “this
merry way. Hence a textbook beloved. When we visit there’s recipe is made from some raw
saltimbocca: thin veal, good ham, a family with children to one side, ingredients and isn’t suitable for
crisped sage leaves in a boozy, an elderly couple to the other, microwaving”. Which suggests I’ve
buttery puddle. sleek Kensington youth elsewhere, been using the microwave wrong
But Il Portico is filling its sweet, all cheersing with glasses of all these years. There’s not much
faux-beamed and atmospheric good Italian wines. Apart from of a seductive lasagne-in-the-
dining room for more than just Chiavarini himself, voluble and oven aroma either.
FROM THE MENU
the food. People are surprisingly super-informative, the floor is run Surprise: it’s delicious. Not the
forgiving of bad Italian cooking: STARTERS by the kind of lifer Italian waiter amorphous red slurry of lesser
there are restaurants the length of Cappellacci di forever ready with a quip and a lasagne, but discernible meat,
the country piling in punters for a Ossobuco £10.50 “bella signora”. Cheesy? Maybe, vegetables, herbs (rather too much
diet of pizza and pasta and shtick. but pass the formaggio. This all oregano for me, and Bologna might
I go to one near the BBC studios Strozzapreti might be because I’m with Lisa, balk at the star anise, but that’s
the same week and it’s Il Portico’s Romagnoli £10.50 the editor of these pages, and being super-picky). Good, not
polar opposite. “Sauvignon blanc we’ve been clocked as a result; flabby pasta. And yes, a thick layer
or pino grigio,” the manager snaps MAINS/SIDES but it also might not — everyone of velvety, cheesy béchamel on
— the “laydeez” was subtextual. Roe deer with seems to be getting the treatment. top. Nice one, Chaz. MO’L
That saying, there’s no such thing mushroom sauce £26 I have now joined Il Portico’s
as bad pizza? Wrong: my salsiccia legion of devotees. Since going
e friarielli (misspelt) — believe me, Saltimbocca alla there I’ve been evangelising —
I’ve a lot of time even for a bad Romana £19 but replies have frequently been
sausage, but this tastes as though along the lines of “Oh yeah, I went
its leathery casings were stuffed Zucchine fritte £4.50 there in the Eighties/Nineties/
with pebbledash. And its greens: Noughties”. Seems like I was the
etiolated pond scum. DESSERT only one out of the loop. As L
The walls are lined with pictures Cheesecake £6 said on the night: “I’m definitely
of beaming celebrity diners and coming back here.” Me too.
DRINKS PS Chiavarini is just about to
2 negronis £16 launch Pino, a pizza and wine bar,
Textbook a couple of doors down in their
Bottle of Is Argiolas former pizzeria. I’m imagining
saltimbocca: thin Vermentino di something like the enoteche that
line Bologna’s ancient streets:
veal, ham and sage Sardegna DOC £36
tradition and forward-thinking,
leaves in a boozy, TOTAL
For two, including 12.5%
a killer combination n
Twitter: @MarinaOLoughlin
Charlie Bigham’s Lasagne for
One, £4.75; bighams.com
buttery puddle service charge £145 Instagram: @marinagpoloughlin

The Sunday Times Magazine • 45


Drink
The wines that pair best
with food’s fifth taste
associated with foods such as miso If you pair a wine that contains
soup, parmesan, tuna and beef. umami with food that also does
The source of umami is glutamic you get a synergy, an explosion of
acid and we humans love it. flavour. Try pairing oysters,
According to Professor Barry parmesan or scallops with aged
Smith at the Centre for the champagne or dry sherry and
Study of the Senses, umami is a you’ll taste the synergy in action.
taste we are innately attuned to, However, not all bottles go with
but unlike sweetness and umami-rich foods, as umami tends
Will Lyons sourness, which fall away quite to make wine taste a little bitter.

I t was Kikunae Ikeda, a


chemistry professor at Tokyo
Imperial University, who in 1908
quickly, umami leaves a long,
pleasurable aftertaste.
A study last year by researchers
As a rule of thumb you need wines
with freshness and fruit — think
crispy duck pancakes and fruity
proposed there was a fifth taste, at the University of Copenhagen pinot noir, or anchovies with a
umami, to slot in behind salty, discovered that aged champagne glass of fresh, aromatic vinho
sweet, sour and bitter. Described also contains umami, derived from verde from northern Portugal n
as savoury and roughly meaning the dead yeast cells that give it Twitter: @Will_Lyons
“deliciousness” in Japanese, it is that attractive biscuity character. Instagram: @mrwill_lyons

2017 Exquisite Ayala Brut Majeur 2020 Ribolla Gialla 2019 Weingut Jülg 2018 Dominique 2014 Le Soula
Vintage Cava Champagne Marks and Weissburgunder Piron Beaujolais Blanc Vin de Pays
Aldi, £6.49 Tanners, £29 Spencer, £7 The Wine Society, Villages des Côtes
Spain France Italy £11.50 Waitrose, £11.99 Catalanes
I am impressed with When it comes to Part of M&S’s new Germany France Bowes Wines, £27
the quality of high price Ayala “Found” range. Made In June I love to Dominique Piron France
street cava this year punches well above from ribolla gialla pull out white wines has been on my One of the most
and this Aldi bargain, its weight. This grapes, which come from the Pfalz, radar for a few food-compatible
coming soon, has a combines toasty, from the Fruili region which have a years and this wine wines I know. From
crisp, savoury depth. bready, oaky of northeast Italy, precise, dry, crisp will not disappoint the Roussillon, it’s a
Although a umami aromatics with a it has attractive finish. I could with its smoky, dark blend of vermentino,
synergy for cava is crisp, bright tropical fruit flavours imagine this with fruit and soft, sauvignon and
unproven, it goes character. Try it with with a soft texture. something like an evolved texture — macabeu and others
well with cured ham parmesan and revel It goes well with Asian-inspired try with pan-fried with a citrus tang
and tapas. in umami on umami. umami-rich scallops. pork dish. tuna steaks. and great texture.

46 • The Sunday Times Magazine


I’ve decided I need new fences to keep my animals safe. Thanks to a
Farming

Canadian beetle, a Wuhan bat and all you DIYers, that’s impossible

Cows on the rampage?


Better get used to it
So why didn’t plod entice it them missing ten square feet of
with a bit of hay, or call a vet, who slow-moving cow and hitting one
could have pulled something of their colleagues. Then, after
humane and scientific from his he’d been taken to hospital and
bag of Herriot trickery. Ramming the cow had been wrangled to
it with a two-ton police truck the ground by someone who
seems so brutal. knew what he was doing, they
We are told that the cow shot it anyway.
Jeremy Clarkson represented a significant danger It’s all too tragic for words
to motorists but as the road had but at least there is a silver

L ast month I watched some


alarming video footage
of a policeman near Reading
been closed this seems unlikely.
What seems more likely is that
whoever decided to implement
lining. I’ve decided, against all
my instincts, to install some
new fencing.
deliberately ramming a cow with a new policy of ramming cows is When I was younger I used
his pick-up truck. The poor thing “a bit thick”. to sit watching the most
had escaped from its field and was Still, the British plod did better interminable drivel on television
wandering around on a road, in than their counterparts in because I couldn’t be bothered to
some distress. Apparently it had America because back in March, get out of the chair and change
knocked a shopper over and there when officers in Virginia were channels. Now, of course, thanks
were fears it could eat someone’s asked to deal with an escaped to the remote control I don’t
lawn. But even so there was no cow, they reacted by arriving on have to. As soon as James May
need to kill it. It’s not like it was the scene in a blizzard of noise says “Hello and welcome to …”
a brontosaurus or a saltwater and flashing lights and tried to I just press the button and,
crocodile. It was just a cow. shoot it — which resulted in kerpow, he’s gone.

48 • The Sunday Times Magazine


eaten and, to create the perfect
storm, there’s also a shortage of
sawmills. After the last recession
in 2008, a lot of lumber yards
suffered a kneejerk reaction to the
sub-prime problems and shut up
shop. So now, when timber is cut,
there are very few places that can
turn it into lumber.
And Covid has also caused
chaos with shipping. So even if
you can find a tree that hasn’t
been eaten, and you can find a
sawmill that’s still open, you’re
going to struggle to find a
company that can deliver it.
Which is why you might want to
look at getting your wood from
Europe. Yeah, well, post Brexit,
good luck with that.
The upshot is that fence posts
now cost more than most space
rockets. And to buy one you have
to meet a shady chap called Derek
round the back of the pub.
Sure, I have planted many trees
over the past year or so, but it’ll be
30 years before they can be used
to separate farm animals from
idiotic policemen, which is why
I turned my attention to fencing
made from iron.
Nor when I want to speak with Except now, thanks to global And it’s the same story. Because
a friend do I need to go to the On my warming, or transgender issues, wood now costs more than heroin,
phone box and stand in a puddle
of tramp urine, or wait for the
farm there’s or some other kind of woke
plague, I can’t even do that
everyone has thought the same
thing, and as a result every
neighbour to get off the “party
line” because today it’s considered
20 miles of because there’s a massive
planetwide shortage of timber.
company making metal fences has
filled its web pages with words like
a “human right” to have a fencing. Get A small beetle, no bigger than “Due to unprecedented demand”.
smartphone of your own. a grain of rice, decided recently to Which is corporate speak for
Life is easier and faster in that done eat Canada. It started in British “oops, we’ve sold out”.
every way. We don’t have to
crank a handle to start the car. We
and I could Columbia, stripping the bark off
every tree it could find, and now
Walls are not the answer either.
Yes, there’s no shortage of stone.
don’t have to put up with feeling beat Tyson it’s halfway across Alberta. God We are standing on it. But there
green around the gills for 90 knows how it’s still hungry after all is a shortage of people who can
minutes when we want to cross Fury at arm of that but it is and soon there will arrange it so that it doesn’t fall
the Channel. We don’t even have
to go to the shops when we
wrestling be no trees left.
And it’s not just the six-legged
over. I have a great guy on the
farm but he’s 72 years old and can
want something. Mr Creosote that’s causing the barely keep up with the badgers
However, when we want to problem, because there’s also the that knock over what he repairs
build a fence, we are still expected Wuhan bat. When that caused the every night. Asking him to build
to use the exact same system world to shut down, some people 20 miles of wall would finish
as those apes we saw at the went home and spent their newly him off. And anyway a drystone
beginning of Kubrick’s space gifted free time making bread. wall is no real barrier to livestock.
odyssey. You deploy something Some learnt French and some Sheep just clamber over it and,
called a “fence knocker”, which broke out the watercolours. But given the right motivation, a cow
is a heavy bit of iron with the vast majority reckoned that could win the Grand National.
handles on the side and is far because they were stuck at home Pigs, meanwhile, are so good at
and away the most tiring thing they may as well spruce the place escaping, they make Steve
in the world. up a bit. McQueen look like a rank amateur.
Knocking in one post takes So off they went to the DIY I’m fearful then that in the
about 20 minutes and in a mile store, where they bought timber coming months we will see a lot
ILLUSTRATION BY BEN CHALLENOR

of fencing there are 1,320 posts. for decking, timber for new more livestock on our roads and
And on my farm there is maybe 20 fencing and timber for an that maybe some new legislation
miles of fencing. Get that job done extension. And this wasn’t just may be necessary. Legislation
and I could beat Tyson Fury at arm happening in Britain. It was that reminds officers they may
wrestling. That’s why I use a happening everywhere. not deliberately run down cows,
different system, which is called So now there’s a huge surge in or dogs, or any animal for that
“paying someone else to do it”. demand for what the beetle hasn’t matter. Just burglars n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 49


The Porter Review: Toyota Supra
Driving
This is not the answer
to your midlife crisis
and when it was killed off without So in an attempt to broaden
replacement in 2002 no one the Supra’s appeal there’s now this,
seemed especially bothered. a new entry-level model that
Then Supras appeared in the replaces the BMW-sourced 3-litre
video games Gran Turismo and straight six with a 2-litre four-
Need for Speed and starred in one of cylinder engine, also from the
the Fast & Furious movies, which German side of the partnership.
made a new generation aware of It’s less powerful (254 v 335
them, and this is where the horsepower), it’s slower (0-62 in
Richard Porter horrible misunderstanding arose. 5.2 v 4.3 seconds) and it’s cheaper

T he current Toyota Supra is


the result of a terrible
misunderstanding. The roots of
In the 2010s Toyota mistakenly
thought that, because the car had
been immortalised in pixels and
(£46,010 v £54,365 for the most
basic models) but, aside from
slightly different exhaust pipes
this are in the late 1970s and the on film, people actually liked it. and wheels, it’s identical to look at.
original Supra, which was little Trouble is, just because you From some angles it appears
more than a Toyota Celica injected remember something from the muscular and serious, from others
with protein. past it doesn’t mean that you want cartoonish and silly. It’s striking,
The second generation sported it in your life today. See also Parma though you probably wouldn’t call
more rakish styling, which gave it Violets, Global Hypercolor it pretty. When you drive it
a distinct whiff of “Dad seems to T-shirts and Anthea Turner. through densely populated areas
be getting over the divorce”, and Unfortunately, before Toyota you become aware that people are
the third one really ran with this realised this it had entered into a looking at it, though that might be
CONTACT US vibe, the bonnet getting longer, partnership with BMW to bring because they’re saying: “I’ve never
Write to us at the wheels getting whiter, the back the Supra as a sister car to the seen one of those before. What is
driving@sunday- calls from your sister getting more Z4 roadster and arranged for both it?” Or, given the image of
times.co.uk or Driving, urgent and ending with: “Well, to be built in a factory near Graz. previous Supras: “Hey, isn’t that
The Sunday Times, at least it’s not a motorbike.” Great fanfare was made about your dad? Why has he spent so
1 London Bridge Street, Then there was the fourth the return of this supposed much on a car when he lives in a
London SE1 9GF generation, which was attractive Japanese sports car icon (built with flat above a newsagent and has no
in a steroidal sort of way but hard German engineering in Austria) furniture except for a futon?”
DRIVING.CO.UK to take seriously and viewed with and then … well, it’s been out for The problem with this new-
For daily news, reviews, little affection in its day. One two years and have you ever seen variant Supra is that it has a vast,
videos, buying guides British car magazine described it one on the road? I don’t think it’s priapic nose designed to take the
and advice as “surprisingly unentertaining” exactly flying out of showrooms. lengthy straight six with which the
car was launched. Running a However, once you take it out of
weeny four-cylinder motor and sport mode and stop haring about
shrouding it with that long, The Portometer like you’re travelling to or from a
bulbous bonnet feels a bit like
stuffing a sock down the front of Toyota GR Supra 2.0 Fuji fire it’s altogether less uptight. It
changes its own gears smoothly,
your swimming trunks.
Still, you might hope that a
Speedway Edition pads over bumps softly and is a
perfectly reasonable cruiser, much
smaller, lighter engine tucked like the 3-litre version.
1,299mm

entirely behind the front axle If you’re in the market for a


would have a positive effect on the Supra you should know that the
weight distribution and therefore larger engine uses more petrol
the handling, making this Supra and costs more to buy but makes
a delight to dance down an 1,854mm 4,379mm a nicer noise and, of course, fills
interesting back road. Sadly this Engine Fuel / CO2 that codpiece bonnet more
is not the case. There’s nothing 1998cc, 4 cylinders, 37.7mpg / 167g/km convincingly. However, the real
wrong with the engine itself, turbo, petrol problem for this lower-powered
Weight
which is muscular and keen, its Power 1,395kg
version is what else you could
output plumped by a turbocharger, 254bhp @ 6500rpm have for similar money.
but it’s attached to an eight-speed Price If it’s a four-cylinder sports car
automatic gearbox with paddle Torque £47,410 you’re after, the fabulous Alpine
295 Ib ft @ 1550rpm
shift that undoes the engine’s Release date A110 is within a couple of grand of
excellent efforts by being too soft Acceleration On sale now the GR Supra 2.0 Fuji Speedway
and sloppy in standard mode and 0-62mph: 5.2sec Edition tested here, and a basic
Richard’s rating
needlessly aggressive in sport. Top speed Porsche 718 Cayman is actually
Likewise the adaptive 155mph less, though with Porsche’s usual
suspension, which, in its sporty generosity that price might not
setting sends unpleasant jolts up include windows. Both are
your spine. Then there’s the brilliant sports cars and perfectly
steering, which is too quick Head to head competent cruisers while the
whichever mode you’re in and, Toyota GR Supra 2.0 Supra is only one of those things.
combined with the shortness of Fuji Speedway Edition v If you don’t fancy the A110 or
the wheelbase, gives the car a Porsche 718 Cayman the Cayman, if you prize all-out
nervous, twitchy feeling as you driving pleasure above everything
turn into a bend that, conversely, Price 0-62mph
else, and if you’re determined to
then dissolves as it settles down give your local Toyota dealer some
£47,410 £45,230 5.2sec 4.9sec
and clings tightly to dry tarmac. of your money, save yourself a
Guiding this car briskly Power Top speed packet and get the sensational GR
cross-country becomes a series Yaris that Jeremy raved about not
254bhp 296bhp 155mph 170mph
of short, sharp shocks. Good too long ago. Any of these three is
driver’s cars let you build up nicer to drive than the Supra. In
a satisfyingly smooth and fact, it’s hard to think what this car
consistent rhythm over a snaking can do that they can’t and as a
bit of road. The Supra is the result it’s impossible to think of
opposite of that. It’s staccato and Toyota thought that, because a reason to recommend it. It’s not
angular. It has no flow to it. You
feel like you’re trying to dance to
the car had been immortalised terrible, but I can’t imagine you’d
ever buy one unless there was
a piece of music in 5/4 time. on film, people actually liked it some terrible misunderstanding n
It was such an honour to be

Kevin Hall
A Life in the Day
named the UK’s only Lego certified
professional. I had to apply with
my portfolio and go through an
The UK’s only Lego certified professional official interview process. The title
means that I am authorised to
on his dream job working as a brick artist design and build models for the
Lego Group itself, but also in an
official capacity for third parties.
Some jobs take two weeks, others

H all, 48, was raised in New


South Wales, Australia, and
worked as a graphic designer
I built it just by looking at the
picture. I have a photographic
memory and, even as a kid, if I saw
can take six months.
I’m a huge Disney fan and so
it was a dream come true to build
before relocating to the UK to a Lego model I could recreate it at the Beauty and the Beast castle
work with Lego full time. In home without instructions. (pictured). It is 2.2 metres tall and
2015 he founded Brick Galleria, There are no formal consists of half a million bricks,
a Lego modelling company that qualifications to become a brick but I built it freehand after a lot
designs and creates models artist — my job is the result of my of research. There was no plan. If
for events. In 2019 he became lifetime passion for Lego. When I can visualise it, I can recreate it.
the UK’s only Lego certified I moved to the UK from Australia, The past year is the busiest we
professional, one of just 21 I left everything behind apart from have ever been. We produced two
people in the world with the 200kg of Lego. There is a huge Lego books, built a giant pair of
title. He lives in the Cotswolds community called Afol [Adult shoes for Adidas and built models
with his colleague Emily Corl, Fans of Lego] that I’ve been part of for Covent Garden for Christmas.
a Lego brick artist. for 20 years. It started as a hobby We currently have a Tudor
but then by participating in events exhibition in the Salisbury
I live and work my work was noticed and agencies Museum, with models of Hever
in a 236-year-old began asking me to design and Castle in Kent, Shakespeare’s
converted barn on build models for ad campaigns. Globe theatre and the six wives of
a dairy farm. I’m usually up at Eventually the amount of Henry VIII. If I am caught up in
6.30am and begin every day with commissions I was getting made the work, sometimes lunch will
a walk across the land. It feels like it possible for me to go full time. pass me by and by mid-afternoon
we have a 100-acre backyard. Then I love every minute of it and never I’ll suddenly realise I’m hungry.
I’ll eat breakfast and review our dread Mondays. A lot of people reconnected
daily schedule. Luckily the Brick In the mornings I devote time with Lego when they were
Galleria studio is in my home, so to designing new models. I build stuck at home during lockdown.
I only have a ten-second commute. them virtually, brick by brick, I think it’s because you can
When I was five my mum got with 3D computer software before actually make your own world.
me a Lego set for Christmas and physically building them. There is no right or wrong with
Lego — if you can dream it, you
can build it. For me a model is
not a finite thing. I can make
something, then I’ll tear it down
to make something else.
I finish work officially at about
6pm but Lego fills a lot of my
personal time too. In the studio
I can be surrounded by up to
ten million bricks and parts, and
they inevitably spill over into
the house. Emily and I have built
loads of practical things to use at
home, such as a Lego spatula and
kitchen roll holder. When I’m
WORDS OF not building I love to study history
WISDOM or go for an evening walk. I’m
usually in bed by 10pm.
BEST ADVICE There are so many elements
I WAS GIVEN to being a brick artist — design,
How inspiring this engineering, maths — but the act
work could be of physically bringing something
COURTESY OF KEVIN HALL. GETTY IMAGES

to life is the part I love. I’m living


ADVICE I’D GIVE a dream and don’t think I’ll ever
Never stop building retire. I’m a firm believer that
growing old may be
WHAT I WISH inevitable but growing
I’D KNOWN up is optional n
Hold out for your Interview by Helen Cullen
dream job See Kevin’s work at brickgalleria.com

58 • The Sunday Times Magazine

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