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APPLYING VALUE STREAM MAPPING TECHNIQUE IN APPAREL

INDUSTRY KONFEKSİYON SEKTÖRÜNDE DEĞER AKIŞI
HARİTALANDIRMA TEKNİĞİNİN UYGULANMASI
Article ​in ​Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon · October 2013
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APPLYING VALUE STREAM MAPPING

TECHNIQUE IN APPAREL INDUSTRY

KONFEKSİYON SEKTÖRÜNDE DEĞER AKIŞI HARİTALANDIRMA

TEKNİĞİNİN UYGULANMASI
*
Esra Zeynep YILDIZ​1​, Mücella GÜNER​2 ​

1​
Ege University, Emel Ak​ın​ Vocational Training School, Izmir, Turkey

2​Ege University, Department of Textile Engineering, Izmir, Turkey

Received: 02.05.2013 Accepted: 16.07.2013

ABSTRACT ​Lean production focuses on eliminating waste and increasing the effiency of system continuously. Value, the starting point of
lean production, is a property of a product or service that customer is willing to pay and it provides the needs of customer at a specific time
and price. Value stream mapping is one of the important tools of lean production. It is a pencil and paper tool that helps to see and understand
the flow of material and information as a product makes its waythrough the value stream. In this paper, a value stream mapping study was
carried out in a apparel company which produces jeans. First, the current state was introduced. Then by using lean techniques and methods
future state map was created. The results of this study, outlining improvements and expected benefits, were proposed.

Key Words: ​Lean production, Value, Waste, Value stream mapping, Apparel industry.

ÖZET

Yal​ı​n üretim, sistemdeki israflar​ı ​ortadan kald​ı​rmak ve sürekli olarak sistem etkinliğini art​ı​rmak temeline dayanmaktad​ı​r. Yal​ı​n
düşüncenin başlang​ı​ç noktas​ı ​olan değer; müşterinin paras​ı​n​ı ​ödemeye haz​ı​r olduğu, ihtiyaçlar​ı​n​ı ​belirli zaman diliminde, belirli
 fiyattan karş​ı​layan, belirli özelliklere sahip belirli bir ürün ve/veya hizmet yarat​ı​lmas​ı​d​ı​r. Değer ak​ı​ş​ı ​haritaland​ı​rma yal​ı​n üretimin
önemli araçlar​ı​ndan birisidir. Bir kağ​ı​t kalem tekniği olarak ifade edilen değer ak​ı​ş​ı ​haritaland​ı​rma, ürünün geçtiği ak​ı​şlar boyunca
oluşan malzeme ve bilgi ak​ı​ş​ı​n​ı​n görülmesine ve anlaş​ı​lmas​ı​na yard​ı​mc​ı ​olur. Bu çal​ı​şmada, denim pantolon üretimi yapan bir
konfeksiyon firmas​ı​nda değer ak​ı​ş​ı ​haritaland​ı​rma çal​ı​şmas​ı ​uygulanm​ı​şt​ı​r. Öncelikle mevcut durum ortaya konulmuş, sonras​ı​nda
yal​ı​n teknik ve metotlar uygulanarak gelecek durum haritas​ı ​oluşturulmuştur. Önerilen gelişmeler ve beklenen faydalar çal​ı​şman​ı​n
sonuçlar​ı ​olarak sunulmuştur.

Anahtar Kelimeler: ​Yal​ı​n üretim, Değer, İsraf, Değer ak​ı​ş​ı ​haritaland​ı​rma, Konfeksiyon sektörü.

Corresponding Author: ​Esra Zeynep Y​ı​ld​ı​z, esra.zeynep.yildiz@ege.edu.tr, Tel: +90 232 311 18 66, Fax: +90 232 342 60 53
VSM is to identify all types of waste in the
1. INTRODUCTION value stream and to take steps to try and
eliminate these (6). Another goal is to build
The term “lean” means a series of activities a chain of production
or solutions to eliminate waste, reduce Taiichi Ohno and Shiego Shingo (5). A
non-value added operations, and improve value stream is a collection of all actions
the value added (1). Waste takes many (value added as well as non- value-added)
forms and can be found at any time and in that are required to bring a product (or a
any place. It may be found hidden in group of products that use the same
policies, procedures, process and product resources) through the main flows, starting
designs, and in operations. Waste with raw material and ending with the
consumes resources but does not add any customer. These actions consider the flow
value to the product (2). Waste can be of both information and materials within the
defined as anything other than the overall supply chain. The ultimate goal of
minimum amount of equipment, materials, VSM is to identify all types of waste in the
parts, and value stream and to take steps to try and
time that are essential to eliminate these (6). Another goal is to build
on. It (“muda” in Japanese) has a chain of production
ypes: overproduction, waiting time, Taiichi Ohno and Shiego Shingo (5). A
tation, inventory, over processing, value stream is a collection of all actions
and defective product (3). Waiting (value added as well as non- value-added)
correcting the seam faults and that are required to bring a product (or a
wn of machines are the major group of products that use the same
of disturbance. These disturbances resources) through the main flows, starting
he efficiency of manufacturing time with raw material and ending with the
ay upset production schedules customer. These actions consider the flow
xecution (4). of both information and materials within the
ream mapping (VSM) is one of the overall supply chain. The ultimate goal of
t subjects and tools of lean VSM is to identify all types of waste in the
on. It was pioneered by value stream and to take steps to try and
Taiichi Ohno and Shiego Shingo (5). A eliminate these (6). Another goal is to build
value stream is a collection of all actions a chain of production
(value added as well as non- value-added) Taiichi Ohno and Shiego Shingo (5). A
that are required to bring a product (or a value stream is a collection of all actions
group of products that use the same (value added as well as non- value-added)
resources) through the main flows, starting that are required to bring a product (or a
with raw material and ending with the group of products that use the same
customer. These actions consider the flow resources) through the main flows, starting
of both information and materials within the with raw material and ending with the
overall supply chain. The ultimate goal of customer. These actions consider the flow
 of both information and materials within the value stream and to take steps to try and
overall supply chain. The ultimate goal of eliminate these (6). Another goal is to build
VSM is to identify all types of waste in the a chain of production

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013 ​393

in China. Production lead time was reduced from 23.5 days to 4.5 days and value added lead time was reduced from
184 sec to 166 sec. Also costs were reduced, response to the customer’s needs were increased (14).
Lasa et al (2008) carried out VSM application in a company which manufactures plastic parts that make up mobile
phone bodies, button units and keypads. Production lead time was reduced from 26 days to 20 days and value added
lead time was reduced from 0.7 days to 0.5 days. Also they reported an achievement in cost savings and a reduction
of raw material, semi-finished and finished goods inventory (15).
Another application of VSM was carried out by Singh and Sharma (2009) in crank shaft gear manufacturing line. They
made development by calculating TAKT time and improving Kanban system. Production lead time was reduced from
53.31 days to 4.11 days, 92,58 percent reduction in lead time was achieved. Value added lead time was also reduced
from 1702 minutes to 1665 minutes (2).
VSM has been applied in variety of industries and major of the studies were especially carried out in automative
industry. However, there are a limited number of articles about VSM application in apparel industry.
Hodge et al. (2011) conducted a research project to determine which lean principles are appropriate for
implementation in the textile industry. The use of lean manufacturing in the textile industry was examined in the
research through interviews, plant tours and case studies (16).
Senthil Kumar and Sampath (2012) focused on implementation of Lean tool for minimizing the Work in progress
(WIP), line setting time in a knitted t-shirt production industry which in turn reduces the cost of production. The paper
was based on the two fold objective of investigation of VSM in existing product line and to alter the same with new
cellular based layout. The proposed VSM through the support of cellular layout reduced the WIP level significantly. By
reducing various non value activities in the cellular layout the production lead time where the individual processes are
had reduced from 2 days to 20 min, linked to their customers either by
which would enhance the continuous flow or pull, and each
manufacturer to go with short term process gets as close as possible to
order quantity also (17). producing only what its customer need when they need it (7).
Marudhamuthu et al. (2011) presented a case study of VSM in an Indian By this technique, a product’s
garment export industry. The objective production path from customer to
was to evolve and test various supplier is followed, and a visual
strategies to eliminate waste and to representation of every process in
improve the productivity. Existing state material and information flow is
production floor was modified by using carefully drawn. Then by answering a
VSM efficiently to improve the set of key questions, a future stare
production process by identifying map of how value should flow is
waste and its causes. At the same drawn. Doing this over and over is the
time, set up time was also reduced simplest way to learn how to see value
considerably (9). and especially the sources of waste (7).
Silva (2012), identified the applicability of VSM for the apparel industry in Sri
2. LITERATURE REVIEW
Lanka. The findings revealed that VSM can be applied to mass production Rother and Shook had introduced the
apparel industries in order to derive value stream mapping tool to the lean
positive results such as reducing production literature and they
wastes in inventory and defects. described the current and future state
Further, VSM helped the managers of value stream map creation processes
the case company to visualize the in their book, “Learning to See: Value-
different types of wastes generated in Stream Mapping to Create Value and
the organization and future possibilities Eliminate Muda” (7). Hines and Rich
of eliminating or reducing them. The (1997) proposed seven tools derived
lead time reduced from 23.916 to from industrial engineering to identify
11.951 min, also there was reduction the wastes present in any system (8).
in work-in-progress (WIP) inventory
In recent years, many literatures have
(18).
extensively documented the implementation of lean manufacturing,
3. MATERIAL AND METHOD ​in various manufacturing sectors (9).
The research is conducted in an Arbulu et al. (2003) presented a case
apparel company whose major study that documents the most
products are jeans, skirts and shorts in common configuration of the supply
various order size. Company's chain for pipe supports used in power
manufacturing units comprise cutting, plants in the USA (10). McDonald et al.
sewing, washing, quality control and (2002) selected motor as a product
finishing departments. All products family (11). Braglia et al. (2006),
manufactured are processed through implemented their application within an
finishing, preliminary quality control, electro domestic manufacturing firm
ironing and final quality control considering in particular the plant
processes, which include sewing of devoted to refrigerators production
such accessories as buttons, rivets, (12).
snappers and eyelets. The company
Emiliani and Stec (2004) emphasized the use of value stream maps to the
has a monthly production capacity of 500.000 pieces.
field of leadership and organizational improvement. They described the use
3.1. Material ​of value stream maps for determining the beliefs, behaviors and competencies possessed by business
leaders (13).
The most important product group of the manufacturer is jeans. In this study, the model given in Figure 1 which is
frequently produced within Shen and Han (2006) analyzed the
jeans product group is chosen as possiblity to adapt VSM in electrical
material. manufacturing services (EMS) industry
394 ​TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013
• Customer requirements communicated electronically as 60 day forecasts and 30 day orders; production control
communicated to supplier electronically as 60 day forecasts and 30 day orders according to customer requirements.
• Production control department calculates weekly requirements and delivers a print-out of schedule to each process,
and print-out of daily ship schedule to shipping department.
• For this product family, the demand of the customer is 28.350.
• 270 cloth batch is necessary to complete the order. Shipment of raw materials from supplier takes place 1 time in 10
days.
• The product is shipped to customer after the steps of incoming quality control (IQC), spreading, cutting, preparation
for sewing, assembly, washing and quality control processes.
• There are 35 cloth batches waiting for incoming quality control process. Each cloth batch contains approximately
150 meters of fabric. Fabric consumption for this model is about 1.3 m./pcs. The day basis inventory amount between
processes is calculated as follows;
Figure 2. ​Value stream mapping
Amount of daily production: 28.350 ​processes
pcs.: 21 day = 1.350 pcs./day
3.2.1. Selecting product family
35 batch* 150 m. = 5250 m. fabric
The first step in VSM is selecting the product family. A family is a group of
5250 m.: 1.3 m./pcs. = 4038 pcs inventory, products that pass through similar processing steps and over common
 equipment in processes (7).
4038 pcs. : 1350 pcs./day = 3 days inventory.
The jean model seen in Figure 1 which is frequently produced as product group is chosen for VSM application.
Figure 1. ​Jeans model
3.2. Method
VSM was used for the elimination of the wastes in the enterprise. It is based on four phases. The main steps in VSM
are shown in Figure 2.
• In incoming quality control process (IQC), a cloth batch which contains 150 meters of fabric is controlled
approximately in 10 min. (600 sec.)
3.2.2. Drawing the Current State
Map
600 sec. : 150 m. = 4 sec./m.
IQC time for a product = 1,3 m. *4 The second step in VSM process is
sec./m. = 5.2 sec. cycle time (C.T.) drawing the current state map. Drawing material flow on the current
Changeover time (C/O) = 250 sec.
state map should always start with the
• The fabrics contains elasthane so process that is most linked to the
that fabrics must be hung for at customers, which in most cases is the
least 12 hours after the IQC shipping department, and then working
process. ones way up to the upstream processes (19).
TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013 ​395
While walking the flow, several types of information can be collected, such as (20, 21);
• Cycle time or processing time,
• Changeover time,
• Machine utilization rate,
• First pass yield,
• Quantities,
• Operating times (except the breaks),
• Number of operators and shifts,
• Electronic information,
• Inventory levels,
• Queue or waiting times,
• Production batch sizes,
• Product line,
• Pallets dimension.
So the current state is cleared and below steps are mentioned (22);
1. ​Value-added activities ​involve the conversion or processing of raw materials or semi-finished products through the
use of manual labor. Examples include activities such as subassembling of parts, forging raw materials, and painting
bodywork. Thus, value added activities are the machinery working time required to produce a product.
2. ​Necessary but non-value added activities m ​ ay be wasteful but are necessary under the current operating
procedures. Examples include such as walking long distances to pick up parts, unpacking deliveries, and transferring
a tool from one hand to another.
3. ​Non-value added activities ​stands for the pure waste and involves unnecessary actions, which can be eliminated
completely. Examples include waiting time, stacking intermediate products, double handling. Typically, 95% of all
lead time is non-value added activities.
Figure 3 shows the current-state value-stream map of the selected product family. It includes the following
informations.
• The daily working time: 540 min.,
Break time: 90 min. ,
Available working time: 450 min.
time, • There is 5000 m. fabric inventory
• Between preparation of front part of
and the cycle times at each between IQC and spreading. The
jeans and assembly 1 processes,
process were added to get the value day basis inventory amount between
there is 125 pieces. The day basis
added time. processes is calculated as follows; Amount of daily production: 28.350 pcs.: 21 day = 1.350 pcs./day
inventory amount between processes is calculated as follows;
As can be seen from the map (Figure 3) the value added lead time for the 125 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.09
existing process is 0.2 days (4 hours 5000 m.: 1.3 m./pcs. = 3846 pcs
days inventory.
and 53 Minutes), whereas production inventory, 3846 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 2.85 days inventory.
• Between preparation of back part of jeans and assembly 1 processes, there is 700 pieces. The day basis
lead time is 9.782 days. 97.95% of the lead time is consist of preparation and waiting time. It is not possible to
eliminate this durations completely, but
• The marker length for this model is
it should be reduced to a reasonable calculated as 9.91 m. Spreading the
level. The result of this situation is the fabrics with 50 plies take 43
necessity to work on eliminating minutes. The cycle time required to
preparation and waiting times. For this purpose, it is continued to draw “Future State Map”.
3.2.3. Drawing The Future State Map
The third step in VSM is to create the future state map, which is a picture of how the system should look after the
inefficiencies have been removed. Creating a future state map is done by answering a set of questions on issues
related to efficiency, and on technical implementation related to the use of lean tools. This map then becomes the
basis for making the necessary changes to the system (6).
The main purpose of drawing the future state map is to identify which and where the lean manufacturing tools and
techniques will be used.
The current state value stream map serves as the starting point for developing the future state (23). It should
represent the elimination of non-value added steps, the implementation of a pull system, and the unobstructed flow of
the product through the system (24).
When the current state map is examined, it is observed that production lead time is increased because of the
inventory levels between processes. Therefore, inventory is one of the biggest waste source.
Figure 4 shows the future state value stream map. It includes the following informations.
Shipment of raw materials from supplier takes place in a long period, so raw material inventory stays longer in the
warehouse. By increasing the frequency of shipping, big amounts of inventory can be prevented. Establishing a
supermarket for cloth batches and shipping raw materials from supplier twice a week are proposed.
396 ​TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013
inventory amount between processes is calculated as follows; 700 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.52 days inventory.
spread one piece is calculated as
• After the preparation of front part of follows;
jeans and preparation of back part
50 plies * 9.91 m. = 495.5 m. fabric 495.5 m.​: ​1.3 m./pcs. = 381 pcs. (43 min. * 60 sec.): 381 pcs. = 6.75 sec. (Cycle
time of spreading for a piece)
of jeans processes, the front and back pieces are sewn to each other in assembly 1 process. Between sewing and
assembly 1 processes, there is 0.61 (0.09 + 0.52) daily
• There is 307 m. fabric inventory
inventory. between spreading and cutting
• Between assembly 1 and assembly processes.
2 processes, there is 225 pieces 307 m.: 1.3 m./pcs. = 236 pieces
inventory. The day basis inventory inventory,
amount between processes is
236 pcs.: 1.350 pcs./day = 0.175
calculated as follows; days inventory.
225 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.167
• It takes approximately 40 minutes to cut 50 plies with 9.91 m. marker length. The cycle time required to cut one
piece is calculated as follows;
days inventory.
• The washing process is carried out by sub-contractor. This process takes about 4.5 hour.
50 plies * 9.91m. = 495.5 m. fabric 495.5 m.: 1.3 m./pcs. = 381 pcs. (40 min.* 60 sec.): 381 pcs. = 6.29 sec.
(Cycle time of cutting for a piece)
• Between assembly 2 and washing processes, there is 475 pieces. Also between washing and quality control
processes, there is 1780 pieces. The day basis inventory
• In the “preparation of front part of jeans”, “preparation of back part of
amount between processes is calculated as follows; jeans”, “assembly 1” and “assembly
475 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.35 2” processes, different operations
days inventory. take place sequentially. Durations of these processes are calculated. The process time of preparation
of front part of jeans is 13.11 min., preparation of back part of jeans is 1.35 min., assembly 1 is 6.1 min. and
assembly 2 is 1.75 min.
1780 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 1.32 days inventory.
• After washing process, the finished products are taken into quality control process. Quality control process for each
product is approximately 35 sec. Between
• Between sewing and cutting processes,
quality control and shipping there is there is 1250 pieces inventory.
520 finished product. The day basis 1250 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.925 days
• The preparation of front part of jeans and preparation of back part of jeans processes take place
inventory amount between processes is calculated as follows; 520 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.385 days inventory.
parallel. Because the cycle time of
• Completed products are shipped to back piece is much shorter than
the customer once per week. front, too much inventory is created
The lead times between each process before assembly 1 process.
were added to get the production lead
TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013 ​397
In In the future state, the schedule is sent
the future state map, similar to shipping, where a supermarket will
operation with respect to product be created. When the stock in the
families or the operations, which are all supermarket reaches a certain level, a
forming a common, product are kanban signal will schedule the
grouped. So assembly processes and production at the downstream
preparation of back parts are grouped processes.
together.
By providing IQC is done by supplier, only statistically quality controlled raw materials will be taken into spreading.
For a cloth batch that consist of 150 meter fabric, 10 minute time saving will be provided and waste of waiting time
will be prevented.
Because of the disorganisation of enterprise, between spreading and cutting departments, waiting times are occured.
By making Kaizen applications, continuous flow is aimed to be achieved between spreading and cutting processes.
So the spreaded fabrics will be taken directly into cutting without inventory and waiting times.
Pacemaker process sets the pace for the rest of the value stream. It’s the one and only operation that receives the
production schedule. The pacemaker produces to the takt time and sets the pace for the upstream operations to
produce only enough to replenish what the pacemaker operation has consumed. Downstream of the pacemaker
operation, the process must produce in a continuous flow (25).
For this case it was decided that the pacemaker process should coincide with the system’s bottleneck, the
preparation of back part of jeans / assembly processes. From this point, the aforementioned FIFO lines will be
established downstream, as will the supermarket pull systems upstream. Therefore, supermarkets will be placed IQC
and spreading / cutting, spreading / cutting and preparation of front part of jeans.
current situation and consequently the mapping process will be repeated by preparing a new future state map. In
other words, “continuous improvement” will be provided in the value stream (20). Table 1 shows the gains that are
obtained by the VSM applications on the basis of departments when the current state map and the proposed future
state map is compared.
5. CONCLUSIONS
The goal of lean manufacturing is to become highly responsive to customer demand while producing quality products
in the most efficient and economical manner by reducing various waste in human effort, inventory, time to market and
manufacturing space (2).
For this purpose, it is required to see the complete visual flow in value chain, to eliminate the wastes and to canalize
all activities to create value for customers.
Waste is defined as anything that does not add value to the customer and also it could be defined as anything the
customer is unwilling to pay for.
At this point, value stream mapping technique is used to implement lean transformation and to improve it continually.
VSM applications provides increased competitiveness by making enterprises become more simplier.
In this study, flow of value, waste and waste sources in the value stream was tried to clarified by using value stream
mapping. The current state was analyzed and ideas for improving system performance were proposed.
Value stream mapping should be repeated periodically in order to achieve better system performance with continuous
improvement view.
Table 1. ​The gains obtained after future state map on the basis of departments
Warehous e
Preparation of back part of jeans / assembly department pulls products from preparation of front part of jeans
department.
Because of the washing process is carried out by sub-contractor, FIFO system was established between preparation
of back part of jeans / assembly and quality control departments, to ensure continuous flow.
Due to the long changeover time of sewing and assembly processes, with implementations for reducing the
changeover time, an increment in productivity will be provided.
By daily shipment to the customers, the inventory will be prevented in quality control process.
In addition to these activities, with total productive maintenance (TPM), the equipments and materials will be
maintained periodically, so the faults and downtimes caused by machine failure will be prevented. Also with 5S
methodology, a clean and neat workplace will be established.
As can be seen from Figure 4, production lead time is reduced from 9.762 days to 3.4 days, 65.17% reduction in lead
time was achieved.
4. FINDINGS
After all these activities, an action plan is prepared. This plan describes how, when and by whom the transition to the
new situation will be performed. As the plans for future state is fulfilled, at a certain time they will turn into the
Incoming
Preparatio
quality control
n of front part of jeans
Production lead time

Befor e ​VSM
Spreadin
Cutting
g​
Assembly
Assembly
Washin
Quality 1
2
g
Control
0.925
3 day 2,85 day 0.175 day ​
0.61 day 0.167 day 0.35 day 1.32 day 0.385
day ​
9.782 day
day ​
1 day - 0.3 day 0.1 day 1 day 1 day - 3.4 day
After VSM ​
398 ​TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013
TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013 ​399
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