Crochet Pattern Miniature Schnauzer: Littleowlshut

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LittleOwlsHut
www.LittleOwlsHut.com
Crochet
Pattern
By Chirkova Tatiana
Skill level: Experienced
Miniature Schnauzer
About this pattern Materials
Please, read the whole pattern ! Yarn
carefully before you start. I’ve Main color – Worsted/10 ply black boucle yarn. I used 30-40 g of “Valeri”
tried to do my best to present
by Adelia (50% Wool, 50% Acrylic, 50g/145 m).
you with accurate pictures of
how to crochet and decorate the Contrasting color – Worsted/10 ply boucle yarn. I used 15-20 g of “Valeri”
toy terrier. Due to the presence by Adelia (50% Wool, 50% Acrylic, 50g/145 m).
of small parts and wire the dog is
not suitable as a toy for little Tip: Miniature Schnauzer may also be pure black or pure white.
children.
I really hope that detailed step-
by-step instructions and pictures
will help you to gain experience
and provide you with satisfaction
from creative work. Everybody
works differently. This pattern is
just a guideline to help you make
your own unique doggie. It is up
to you to decide the way your
miniature schnauzer will look
like! ! Steel hook matching the yarn weight. I used 1.5 mm (US steel hook – 8,
UK steel hook - 4 1/2) crochet hook for the yarn mentioned above.
I use USA terminology for my ! Strong black thread for tightening. I used “Iris” by Kirov Yarn Mills
pattern (don’t worry if you use (100% cotton, 25g/150m).
UK terms, all the differences are ! Two black beads for the eyes (ø 6 mm).
explained in the pattern). ! Ready-made nose 1.5 cm (0.6 inches) wide.
! Tapestry needle for tightening.
Finished size ! Single core copper electrical wire for the main parts approximately 50
14.5 cm (5.7 inches) tall till the cm (19.7 inches) long 1.5 mm diameter. Use only copper wire for the
tips of the ears, 15.5 cm (6.1 frame as copper can better stand bending compared to aluminum. You
inches) long from the tip of the can buy it at electric supplies stores.
nose to the tips of back legs. ! Thin copper PVC electrical wire for the ears – approx. 10 cm (4 inches)
www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

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LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015
long. You can find this type of wire winded smaller than the diameter of the fiberboard disks).
together inside a cable. You need one of those thin
wires (not the whole cable). You can buy it at
electric supplies stores.
Wire for making jewelry is also can be used.

! Plaster - adhesive-backed fabric tape 1 cm wide to
work up the wire (the one you use to cover
wounds).
! Coarse and fine needles for felting.
! Brush or Velcro for brushing up.
! Small sharp scissors for finishing up.
! Stuffing.
For nose made of polymer clay:

! Black polymer clay.
! Varnish.
! A loop for fastening if needed. Where to find “Nut & Bolt” joint parts?
1. Individual parts can easily be found at a
hardware store.
2. As a set - on the Internet. Search for “Nut &
Bolt joints”.
TIP: Instead of “Nut & Bolt” joint you can use Cotter
Pin joints.
Nut and bolt joints for the legs:

! 6 fiberboard discs 18 mm diameter (the width of
front legs top part).
back legs top part).
! 4 bolts or screws. Length should be about 1.5 - 2
cm. If using thicker yarn - long enough to hold
together 2 discs + 2 washers + 1 nut + thickness of
2 layers of crochet parts (body and leg). You will need:
! 4 nuts matching the size of the bolts or screws. ! 6 fiberboard discs 18 mm diameter (the width of
! 8 washers (make sure their diameter is sufficiently front legs top part).
2
4
5

back legs top part).
! 4 cotter pins with “flat (tee) head” preferably.
Length should be about 3 cm. If using thicker yarn

- long enough to hold together 2 discs + 2 washers
+ thickness of 2 layers of crochet parts (body and
leg) + enough length for curling up.
! 8 washers (make sure their diameter is sufficiently
smaller than the diameter of the fiberboard disks).
TIP: get 4 additional small washers if cotter pin has

a round head.
You will thread washers onto pin to prevent it from

pulling through a joint during tightening.
Optional:
! Wool for felting of the suitable colors.
3
Marker
The toy is crocheted in continuous spirals (unless otherwise stated in the pattern) so you’ll need a stitch marker
to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts. If you don't have a stitch marker you can always use a
scrap of contrasting yarn instead. You can see it in my photos. Put it between the first and the last sts of the rnd
leaving the short tail in front of you and the main part behind the work. Work the next rnd to the marked place
and put its main part in front of the work. This simple way of putting the thread in front of and behind the work
after each rnd will let you know where the beginning of your rnd is. After you finish, it is easy to pull the thread
out. It is the quickest and the easiest way to mark rounds.
Tip (make it right) Tip (make it right) Abbreviations

If there are no special notes, When making toys the right ch(s) = chain(s)
the toy is crocheted under side looks like this:
st(s) = stitch(es)
both parts of the loop. In inc(s) = increasing(s) (2 sc in 1 st)
some rows, there are special double inc = double increasing (3 sc in 1 st)
notes: ‘into the front loop dec(s) = decreasing(s) (sc2tog)
only’ or ‘into the back loop hdc dec = 2 hdc together
only’. In that case, you need sc2tog = single crochet two stitches together
to follow these instructions. sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
And the backside looks like hdc = half double crochet
this:
hdc inc = 2 hdc in one st
double hdc inc = 3 hdc in one st
dc = double crochet
rnd = round
bs = bobble stitch (4 dc together in one stitch)
(Refer to “Bobble stitch” section for the detailed
explanation).
Red or underlined (if in black and white) –
number of sts made with the contrasting yarn.
Black – number of sts made with the main
Gauge (black) yarn.
7 rnds х 7 sc = 2 х 2 cm.
If there is a record in the brackets in the pattern,
Please note that you should use much thinner hook than multiplied by some number, for example (3 sc, 1
stated at the yarn label. inc) x 3, it means you need to repeat this action 3
times, that is 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc.
USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels

Abbreviations USA Abbreviations UK Projects for first-time crocheters using
basic stitches. Minimal shaping.
ch - chain ch - chain
sc - single crochet dc - double crochet
Projects using yarn with basic stitches,
hdc - half double htr - half treble
repetitive stitch patterns,
crochet simple color changes, and simple
dc - double crochet tr - treble shaping and finishing.
tr - treble (triple dtr - double treble
crochet) Projects using a variety of techniques,
dtr - double treble tr tr - triple treble such as basic lace patterns or color
patterns, mid-level shaping and
finishing.
Terminology USA Terminology UK Projects with intricate stitch patterns,

techniques and dimension,
fasten off cast off such as non-repeating patterns, multi-
skip miss color techniques, fine threads, small
gauge tension hooks, detailed shaping and refined
yarn over (yo) yarn over hook (yoh) finishing.
4
1
2
Bobble stitch
4. Cut the color A yarn and continue working with

the color B yarn.
Changing colors
(A – main color, B – new color) 5. Leave the last stitch unfinished.
1. Leave the last stitch unfinished.
2. Grab the color B yarn, leaving a tail, and pool up a 6. Grab the color A yarn, leaving a tail, and pool up a
loop with the color B through both loops on the loop with the color A through both loops on the
hook. hook.
3. Work 3 stitches, inserting the hook in the loop and

then under both the color A yarn and the tail you 7. Work 3 stitches, inserting the hook in the loop and
have left when you attached the color B. then under both the color B yarn and the tail you
have left when you attached the color A.
5
4
3
right, you have to work one extra stitch in the end of

round and move marker for one stitch (now 2nd st of
the round becomes 1st). This is shift stitch.
About joints
Nut and bolt joint
Each joint consists of two fiberboard discs, two
washers and one nut and a bolt (screw).
8. Cut the color B yarn and continue working with

the color A yarn.
You save yarn working this way, get a nice right side as
all tails remain at the back side. Your work is not
Working “Nut and bolt” joint
tightened and deformed.
Take a bolt (screw), put on washer, and then disk (2
fiberboard discs 23 mm diameter are for the back legs
from the legs’ side):
Crochet till the word ‘screw’, put prepared part of the

joint inside the limb and continue crocheting.
Shift stitch
The shift stitch is taken into account and everything
should work with the gauge: 7 rnd х 7 sc = 2 х 2 cm.
If you work with thicker yarn you may need to keep the
work symmetrical. As work tends to twist to the right
you need to adjust position of the marker periodically
(beginning of round). If you notice that marker moves
6
6
5
Do not finish the limb. Leave 1 Rnd unworked to be the poking cotter pin between sts marked with an
able to use tools for fastening (finish the limb after additional marker. Put on the second disc, followed by
joining it to the body). the washer. Curl each part of the cotter pin with pliers
To attach leg to the body: insert the bolt (screw) or a special tool to tighten the joint.
between sts marked with an additional marker. Put on
the second fiberboard disc then the washer and the
nut. Use tools to tighten the joint.
TIP: To help secure joints tightly I use medical forceps

for holding washers.
If cotter pin has “round head”
Each joint consists of two fiberboard discs, 3 washers

and one cotter pin.
Add some glue to the end of the bolt (screw), take some Open the cotter pin slightly (you may need pliers) and
sewing thread and wrap it up around the bolt (screw) put one washer into the loop at the top. It prevents the
to make sure the nut will stay in place. top of the cotter pin from flattening and pulling
through the joint during tightening.
TIP: You may use bolt cutters to trim bolts so they
cannot get unscrewed accidentally.
Cotter Pin joints

If cotter pin has “flat (tee) head”
Each joint consists of two fiberboard discs, 2 washers

Press cotter pin closed and put on a washer, then a disc
and one cotter pin.
(2 fiberboard discs 23 mm diameter are for back legs
Take a cotter pin, put on a washer, and then a disk (2
from the leg side).
fiberboard discs 23 mm diameter are for back legs
from the legs’ side):
The rest is the same as for a cotter pin with tee head
** Crochet till the word ‘screw’, put prepared part of See ** in the section “If cotter pin has “flat (tee)
the joint inside the limb and continue crocheting. You head”.
can finish off the limb completely, with just the
cotter pin poking out. To attach leg to the body: insert
7
7
8
Right front leg 2 sc (15)
Ch 2 and work in 2nd st from the hook: Check the position of the bolt (screw). If it is not on the
inner side of the leg, make few shift stitches to get it
TIP: Do not use magic ring in Rnd 1 with this
into the right position.
type of yarn. Rnd 22. 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (12)
Rnd 23. dec until the opening is closed.
Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off, close up the opening and
Rnd 2. 6 inc = 12 sts
weave in loose ends.
Rnd 3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4. 1 sl st, (1 bs, 1 sl st) x 4, 9 sc = 18 sts
If you want to make the toes stand out more, work [1 sl Left front leg
st, (1 bs, 1 sl st) x 4] with the main color. Ch 2 and work in 2nd st from the hook:
Rnd 5. 1 sc, 4 dec, 9 sc = 14 sts Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Rnd 6. 1 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc = 12 sts Rnd 2. 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnds 7-8. 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts Rnd 3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 times = 18 sts
Rnd 9. 2 sc, 1 sc, 5 sc, 1 sc, 3 sc = 12 sts Rnd 4. 1 sl st, (1 bs, 1 sl st) x 4, 9 sc = 18 sts
Rnd 10. 2 sc, 2 sc, 3 sc, 2 sc, 3 sc = 12 sts If you want to make the toes stand out more, work [1 sl
Rnd 11. 2 sc, 3 sc, 2 sc, 3 sc, 2 sc = 12 sts st, (1 bs, 1 sl st) x 4] with the main color.
Rnd 12. 2 sc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 2 sc = 13 sts Rnd 5. 1 sc, 4 dec, 9 sc = 14 sts
Rnd 13. 2 sc, 10 sc, 1 sc = 13 sts Rnd 6. 1 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc = 12 sts
Rnd 14. 1 sc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc = 14 sts Rnds 7-8. 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Rnd 15. 1 sc in each st around = 14 sts Rnd 9. 2 sc, 1 sc, 5 sc, 1 sc, 3 sc = 12 sts
Rnd 16. 12 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 15 sts Rnd 10. 1 sc, 2 sc, 5 sc, 2 sc, 2 sc = 12 sts
Rnd 17. 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts Rnd 11.1 sc, 3 sc, 4 sc, 3 sc, 1 sc = 12 sts
Rnd 18. 5 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc = 18 sts Rnd 12. 3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 4 sc = 13 sts
Rnds 19-20. 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts Rnd 13. 6 sc, 3 sc, 4 sc = 13 sts
Cut a piece of wire equal to the length of foot and leg. Rnd 14. 7 sc, 2 sc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc = 14 sts
Work up the cuts with plaster. Insert the wire in the leg Rnd 15. 1 sc in each st around = 14 sts
and stuff it. Rnd 16. 12 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 17 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts
Rnd 18. 5 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc = 18 sts
Rnds 19-20: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts
Cut a piece of wire equal to the length of foot and leg.
Work up the cuts with plaster. Insert the wire in the leg
and stuff it.
Rnd 21. 1 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, screw, 3 sc, 1 dec,
2 sc = 15 sts
Check the position of the bolt (screw)!
Rnd 22. 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 12 sts
Rnd 21. 1 sc, screw, 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec,
8
90
Rnd 23. dec until the opening is closed. 1 sc = 14 sts

Adjust the stuffing, fasten off, close up the opening and Rnd 15. 2 sc, 7 sc, 5 sc = 14 sts
weave in loose ends. Rnd 16. 3 sc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 5 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 17. 4 sc, 6 sc, 5 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 18. 4 sc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 5 sc = 17
sts
Rnd 19. 5 sc, 7 sc, 4 sc, 1 inc = 18 sts
Rnd 20. 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 7 sc, 6 sc = 19 sts
Rnd 21. 7 sc, 6 sc, 6 sc = 19 sts
Rnd 22. 8 sc, 5 sc, 6 sc = 19 sts
Rnd 23. 9 sc, 4 sc, 6 sc = 19 sts
Brush up the legs well and put them aside. Rnd 24. 10 sc, 3 sc, 6 sc = 19 sts
Rnd 26. 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc = 23 sts
Rnd 27. 1 sc in each st around = 23 sts
Rnd 28. 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc = 21 sts
Rnd 29: 1 sc in each st around = 21 sts
Cut a piece of wire equal to the length of foot and leg.
Work up the cuts with plaster. Insert the wire in the leg
and stuff it.
Back legs (make 2)

Ch 2 and work in 2nd st from the hook:
Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Rnd 3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4. 1 sl st, (1 bs, 1 sl st) x 4, 9 sc = 18 sts
Rnds 30-32 are worked in a different way for the left
If you want to mark the fingers, work [1 sl st, (1 bs, 1 sl
and the right back legs.
st) x 4] with the main color.
Left leg
Rnd 5. 1 sc, 4 dec, 9 sc = 14 sts
Rnd 30. (1 dec, 2 sc) x 3, 1 dec, 4 sc, screw, 3 sc = 17
Rnd 6. 1 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 2 sc, 3 sc = 12 sts
sts
Rnds 7-8. 6 sc, 4 sc, 2 sc = 12 sts
Check the position of the bolt (screw)!
Rnd 9. 6 sc, 5 sc, 1 sc = 12 sts
Rnd 31. 8 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 16 sts
Rnd 10. 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 5 sc, 1 sc = 13 sts
Rnd 32. dec until the opening is closed.
Rnd 11. 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 6 sc = 15 sts
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off, close up the opening and
Rnd 12. 8 sc, 2 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc = 13 sts
weave in loose ends.
Rnd 13. 8 sc, 5 sc = 13 sts
Right leg
Rnd 14. 1 sc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 2 sc, 1 dec,
Rnd 30. 1 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, screw, 3 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc) x 2, 1
9
1
2
dec, 1 sc = 17 sts Rnd 4. (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts

Check the position of the bolt (screw)! Rnd 5. 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
Rnd 31. 1 dec, 15 sc = 16 sts Rnd 6. (5 sc, 1 inc) x 4 = 28 sts
Rnd 32. dec until the opening is closed. Rnd 7. 1 sc, place an additional marker here, 12 sc,
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off, close up the opening and place an additional marker here, 15 sc = 28 sts
weave in loose ends. Rnd 8. 1 sc in each st around = 28 sts
Rnd 9. 21 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc = 29 sts
Rnd 11. 7 sc, 1 inc, 21 sc = 30 sts
Rnd 13. 25 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc = 33 sts
If you plan to use nut and bolt or cotter pin joints for
the back legs, do it now.
Brush up the legs well and put them aside.
Attach back legs between sts marked with additional

markers and fasten them. See “About joints” for
details. The main marker goes along the left half of the
dog’s back.
Legs proportions:
Rnd 14. 9 sc, 1 inc, 23 sc = 34 sts

Body Rnd 18. 12 sc, 1 inc, 23 sc = 37 sts

Stuff the back part of the body.
Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Rnd 3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
10
3
4
Rnd 34. 3 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 6 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 8 sc, 1 dec,
10 sc = 43 sts
If you plan to use nut and bolt or cotter pin joints for
the front legs, do it now.
Attach front legs between sts marked with additional
markers and fasten them. Make sure your dog stands
well. If not, adjust the position of the legs and fasten
them again.
Rnd 21. 14 sc, 1 inc, 24 sc = 40 sts
Rnd 22. 34 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc = 41 sts
Rnd 24. 37 sc, 1 inc (place an additional marker to
mark this increase), 5 sc = 44 sts
If you want your dog to have one spot:
Rnd 26. 38 sc, (1 inc, 3 sc) x 2 = 48 sts
Rnd 35. 4 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 12 sc, 2 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 41
Rnds 27-29. 1 sc in each st around = 48 sts
sts
Rnd 30. 11 sc, place an additional marker here, 2 sc, 2
Rnd 36. 2 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec,
sc, 6 sc, 2 sc, 2 sc, place an additional marker here, 13
7 sc = 37 sts
sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 47 sts
Rnd 37. 5 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 4 sc, 1 dec,
TIP: If you think additional markers for legs are 7 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc = 33 sts
“on the side” then you may need to work shift
stitches in rounds 27-29 of the body. Usually you
need it only if you use thicker yarn.
Stuff the body shaping it nicely.
If you want your dog to have two spots:

Rnd 35. 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 6 sc, 2 sc, 6 sc, 1 sc, 1 dec, 15
Rnd 31. 12 sc, 4 sc, 5 sc, 4 sc, 22 sc = 47 sts sc = 41 sts
Rnd 32. 10 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 4 sc, 5 sc, 21 sc = 46 sts Rnd 36. 2 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 2 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 3 sc, 1 dec,
Rnd 33. 11 sc, 6 sc, 3 sc, 6 sc, 20 sc = 46 sts 8 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 37 sts
11
5
6
Rnd 37. 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 2 sc, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 2 sc, 2
sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc = 33 sts
Nose Made From Polymer Clay

1. Knead a piece of black clay, shape a triangle of the
dog’s nose size. Prepare a loop if needed.
Rnd 38. 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4
Add stuffing, shaping breast and withers.
2. Make two nostrils with blunt end of a pin.
3. Carefully tear the sides with sharp end of a pin.

Rnd 41. (1 dec, 1 sc) x 6 = 12 sts
Rnd 42. 4 dec
Leave the remaining sts unworked. Fasten off.
Make sure that shape of body and position of legs are 4. Smooth the edges so they don’t look too sharp.
correct.
Remove or add the stuffing to get the correct shape.
Close up the hole and weave in loose ends.
It’s very easy to check yourself – the length of the body
approximately equals to the height of withers. If you
draw the square visually, you’ll see if everything is
correct:
12
7
8
5. Draw the line in the center of the nose with sharp Rnd 7. 6 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 3 sc, 4 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 28
end of a pin. sts
Rnd 8. 12 sc, 4 sc, 12 sc = 28 sts
Rnd 9. 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 6 sc, 3 sc, 1 dec, 6
sc = 25 sts
Rnd 10. 9 sc, 7 sc, 9 sc = 25 sts
If you are using safety nose install it now.
6. Make pores on the topside of the nose using sharp If you’re going to glue the nose, you will do it later.
end of a pin.
Make sure you read the instructions for your polymer

clay.
Rnd 11. 9 sc, 7 sc, 8 sc, 1 dec – marker will shift for 1
I bake the nose in the oven at 130 ºC for up to 5
st = 24 sts
minutes. When it gets cold, varnish it and put aside
Rnd 12. 8 sc, 8 sc, 8 sc = 24 sts
until it is completely dry.
Rnd 13. (2 sc, 1 dec) x 2, (2 sc, 1 dec) x 2, (2 sc, 1
dec) x 2 = 18 sts
Rnd 14. 6 sc, 7 sc, 5 sc = 18 sts
Rnd 15. 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 sc, 1 inc, (2 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 1
sc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc = 24 sts
Stuff the muzzle, keeping triangular shape.
Head
Ch 2 and work, starting from 2nd st from the hook:
Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Rnd 2. 2 inc, 1 hdc inc, 3 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 1 sc, 1 hdc inc, (1 sc, 1
inc) x 3 = 18 sts Rnd 16. 7 sc, 2 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 2 sc, 2 sc, 5 sc = 27
Rnd 4. (2 sc, 1 hdc inc, 2 sc, 1 inc) x 3 = 24 sts sts
Rnd 5. 3 sc, 1 hdc inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, (1 hdc, Rnds 17-22: 1 sc in each st around = 27 sts
place an additional marker here, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in Rnd 23. 5 sc, 3 dec, 9 sc, 3 dec, 1 sc = 21 sts
one st, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 hdc inc, 4 sc = 30 sts Rnd 24. 1 sc in each st around = 21 sts
This additional marker shows you where you should Stuff the head tightly but not too much.
attach the nose to. Rnd 25. (1 sc, 1 dec) x 7 = 14 sts
Rnd 6. 13 sc, 3 sc, 14 sc = 30 sts Rnd 26. dec until closed.
13
0
9
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off, close up the opening and the needle again in the area of the eye to pull it
weave in loose ends. out at the right corner of the lower jaw marked
with a safety pin. Try to make a good tightening
without distorting the muzzle. It is better to do
it by pressing the top mark with the finger.
Initial finishing of the head

1. Using safety pins mark the position of the eyes
and 3 points at the bottom part of the muzzle to
highlight the lower jaw. The marker on the nose 4. Insert the needle at the center of the jaw again
will help you to keep the symmetry. and pull it out in the area of the left eye. Pull
tight, thread another bead for the eye, insert the
needle again in the area of the eye to pull it out
at the center of the muzzle. Try to make a good
tightening without distorting the muzzle. It is
better to do it by pressing the top mark with the
finger.
2. Thread the needle with strong black thread. I

used “Iris” by Kirov Yarn Mills (100% cotton,
25g/150m). Make a knot, insert the needle
between sts somewhere at the bottom of the
muzzle, pull it out at the left corner of the lower
jaw marked with a safety pin. Insert the needle
at the center of the jaw marked with a safety pin 5. Make an invisible stitch and pull the needle out
and pull it out in the area of the right eye. at the area of the left eye.
3. Pull tight, thread one bead for the eye, insert 6. Insert the needle again at the area of the left eye
14
1
2
to pull it out at the area of the right eye. Pull the Remember that your task is not to felt, but just to
thread slightly to form a nose bridge. Cut the adjust the form of the head. "
thread and weave in loose ends.
7. Glue the nose (if not using safety nose). Adjust

the color of the dog with several stitches if
needed.
Neck for the adult dog

Leave a length of yarn at the beginning for sewing the
neck onto the head.
Rnd 1. 6 sc
Ch 18 and continue working in a spiral, making the
Take the coarse needle for felting and straighten the next st into the 1st worked st of the Rnd 1.
bridge of the nose and the forehead, lower the cheeks a Rnd 2. 7 sc, 16 sl st, 1 sc = 24 sts
little bit and adjust the position of the eyes if needed. Rnd 3. 8 sc, 14 sl st, 2 sc = 24 sts
Using your intuition, work carefully with needle over Rnds 4-6. 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
the marked areas. Rnd 7. 4 sc, 1 inc, (7 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 3 sc = 27 sts
15
4
3

Rnd 11. (8 sc, 1 inc) x 3 = 30 sts
Rnd 13. (5 sc, 1 inc) x 5 = 35 sts
End with a sl st and fasten off, leaving a length of yarn
to sew the neck onto the body.
Stretch the bottom edge of the neck and attach it to the

body using safety pins. The marker will help you to find
the right position for the neck. Sew the neck onto the
body. Make sure there is no any sharp transition from
the neck to the body and all the lines are smooth.
Neck for the puppy

Leave a length of yarn at the beginning for sewing the
neck onto the head.
Row 1. 6 sc
Ch 18 and continue working in a spiral, making the
next st into the 1st worked st of the row 1 (to join the
round).
Rnd 2. 7 sc, 16 sl st, 1 sc = 24 sts
Rnd 3. 8 sc, 14 sl st, 2 sc = 24 sts
Rnd 5. 4 sc, 1 inc, (7 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 3 sc = 27 sts
Rnd 9. (8 sc, 1 inc) x 3 = 30 sts
Rnd 12. (5 sc, 1 inc) x 5 = 35 sts
End with a sl st and fasten off, leaving a length of yarn
to sew the neck onto the body.
Add some stuffing to the neck. Find the right position

for the head and pin it to the neck.
16
6
5
TIP: Do not stuff the neck too tightly, just enough

to hold the head up.
If you want your dog to be able to move the head, you

can insert wire going from the head through the neck
into the body. Take a piece of wire equal approximately
to the length of the head from the tip of the nose to the
place of attaching the neck + the height of the neck + Tail (long)
one third length of the body. Work up the edges with
plaster. Insert one end of the wire between the sts of
Rnd 1: 5 sc = 5 sts
the bottom part of the head and push it through to Rnds 2-8: 1 sc in each st around = 5 sts
reach the nose. Rnd 9: 1 inc, 4 sc = 6 sts
TIP: Use knitting needle to make tunnel through the Rnds 10-17: 1 sc in each st around sc = 6 sts
stuffing first so it is easier to insert wire. Rnd 18: 2 inc.
Insert another end of the wire into the neck and push it
Leave the remaining sts unworked, end with a sl st and
through to the body.
fasten off, leaving a length of yarn for sewing.
Sew the head onto the neck in any position you like –
Don’t stuff the tail. Cut a piece of wire equal to the
with the nose up, down or straight, or the head slightly
length of the tail plus approx. 4 cm (1.6 inches) and
turning to the side. insert it into the tail.
Insert extra wire into the body and sew the tail onto the
body.
Tail (short)
Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Rnd 4: 3 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc = 8 sts
Fasten off, leaving a length of yarn for sewing. Sew the
tail onto the body.
Cropped ear (make 2)
Remove the fuzzy thread from the yarn before you
start.
17
7
8
hook. Ch 1 and turn your work after each row

Row 1. 1 sc in each st across = 4 sts
Row 2. 1 inc, 3 sc = 5 sts
Row 3. 4 sc, 1 inc = 6 sts
Row 4. 1 sc in each st across = 6 sts
Row 5. 1 dec, 4 sc = 5 sts
Row 6. 2 sc, 1 dec
Leave the remaining st unworked.
Leave a length of yarn at the beginning for sewing the Row 7. 1 dec, 1 sc
ear onto the head. Row 8. 1 dec
Ch 6 and work in rows, starting from 3rd st from the Do not forget to ch 1 and turn your work. Cut a piece of
hook. Ch 1 and turn your work after each row. wire equal to the perimeter of the ear, put the wire
Row 1. 1 double hdc inc, 3 hdc = 6 sts along the perimeter of the ear and sc the piece evenly
Row 2. 4 hdc around:
Leave the remaining sts unworked. 8 sc, 1 inc in the corner, 2 sc, 1 inc in the corner, 9 sc, 3
Row 3. 1 hdc dec, 2 hdc = 3 sts sc at the top part of the ear.
Row 4. 1 hdc, hdc dec = 2 sts
Row 5. 1 hdc dec = 1 sts
Fasten off and weave in loose end. Make the second ear
the same way.
Fasten off, leaving a length of yarn for sewing. You

should end up with a length of yarn being at the top
part of the ear.
Sew the ears onto the head shaping them as you go.
Work the forehead with the coarse needle for felting,
Left ear:
making it flatter if you have not done it yet.
Work Rows 1-7 the same way as for the right ear.
Row 8. 1 dec
Ch 1 but don’t turn your work. Cut a piece of wire equal
to the perimeter of the ear, put the wire along the
perimeter of the ear and sc the piece evenly around:
9 sc, 1 inc in the corner, 2 sc, 1 inc in the corner, 8 sc, 3
sc at the top part of the ear.
Fasten off, leaving a length of yarn for sewing. You
should end up with a length of yarn being at the top
Natural ears part of the ear.
Right ear: For both ears:
Ch 5 and work in rows, starting from 2nd st from the Cut extra wire. Thread the needle with a length of yarn
18
9
0
you have left after fastening off and go through the Advantage – secure.
edge sts down to the foundation of the ear. Disadvantage – the knots don’t always look nice; it is
not easy to get the result needed.
The 3rd way will be considered in details.
I’ll tell you how I attached the wool after being
disappointed in the first two ways.
Take a very thin tress of the wool up to 15 cm long.
Sew the ears onto the head with their back side facing Holding it with 2 fingers, ‘brush’ it removing short
the nose. Bend the ears, shaping them. hairs, make a knot at one end and thread a tapestry
needle with it:
Insert the needle between the sts in the bottom part of

the head, pull it out in place needed, remove the
Finishing up needle, pull up the tress slightly.
Introduction
I used wool for felting to tint the muzzle and to make
the eyebrows and the fringe. Let’s talk about
advantages and disadvantages of the ways of attaching
it so you can decide which one to use.
The 1st way is for those who can felt. Felt the wool in
the places needed with a fine star-shaped needle for
felting.
Advantage – easy and quick result.
Disadvantage – quite insecure.
Advantage – easy to get the result needed; the result
The 2nd way is the most widespread. Attach thin looks natural and nice.
tresses of the wool at the places needed with a thinner Disadvantage – not so secure; the work needs patience
hook the way you fasten fringe. – step-by-step adding of thing tresses considerably
slows the process.
Finishing the muzzle using wool for

felting
Brush up the muzzle and the mouth well from the
center of the nose bridge to the left and to the right.
19
1
2
If your dog has one spot

Brush up 2-3 Rnds of the spot on the chest following
the hairline. Brush up the belly.
You can add some wool to tint the lower jaw, trim it to
the length needed, highlight the mouth with a fine
needle for felting.
Felt brushed spot adjusting the hair and making nice
blend of colors with a fine needle for felting. Trim the
belly. Adjust the hair on the legs, cutting them with
small sharp scissors to show the toes.
Finishing the muzzle without wool

for felting
Brush up the muzzle and the mouth well. If your dog has two spots
Brush up the belly and the chest, making a funny
Mohawk between the spots.
You can adjust the color with small sharp scissors,

removing excess length and saturation from black
color. Shape the mouth with the needle for felting.
20
1
2
Using sharp scissors, trim the places that you have just
brushed. Adjust the color of the spots with a needle for
felting or with several stitches if needed. Trim the hair
on the legs carefully to show the toes:
Eyebrows and fringe (main color)

Pull out some yarn around the eyes with a blunt needle
for the eyebrows. Make a thin funny fringe using wool
Eyebrows and fringe (contrasting
for felting.
color)
Attach the wool for the eyebrows and the fringe slightly
above the eyes.
Some subtle areas of felted wool, light tinting of the

mouth and a smile formed with a needle for felting will
never do any harm to your dog. "
Carefully trim several tresses at two sides for the
eyebrows, form a funny fringe, trim extra length. Pull
out thin layer of yarn above the fringe with blunt
needle to get natural blend.
21
4
3
Your Miniature Schnauzer is ready!
Finish your work with scissors and a needle for felting,

getting the image of your unique Miniature Schnauzer.
22
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Contacts: I’d love to see the results of your hard work! Please share photos of your finished
creation directly on our Facebook page, add project to the pattern on Ravelry and Craftsy, email me,
and/or find me on other sites. Just search “LittleOwlsHut”.
Tell me about your crocheting adventures, I would love to hear it.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Littleowlshut
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Copyright notes: ©2015 LittleOwlsHut. Finished products created with this pattern
may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:
• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no production-line
allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have their own copy
of the pattern.
• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘LittleOwlsHut’
pattern, include the name of the designer and also include a link to my website
(www.LittleOwlsHut.com)
• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of the item
you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your
work.
If you have an online or street shop where you sell items made from my patterns, you’re eligible to be
included in my list of LittleOwlsHut-designed toy sellers, and get some free publicity for your shop.
It’s 100% free service to you! Please visit (www.LittleOwlsHut.com) for details on how to apply.
Text and images Copyright ©2015 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.

No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means,
including photocopying, without written permission. I work very hard to design and write these
patterns. Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!
Warning: Because your finished project may have small parts, please be extremely cautious if
you decide to give it to a child. Also, if you decide to sell your finished project, remember to include
warning for people purchasing it.
24

Crochet Pattern Miniature Schnauzer: Littleowlshut

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1

www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Wire for making jewelry is also can be used.

For nose made of polymer clay:

Nut and bolt joints for the legs:

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

! 2 fiberboard discs 23 mm diameter (the width of

Length should be about 3 cm. If using thicker yarn

TIP: get 4 additional small washers if cotter pin has

You will thread washers onto pin to prevent it from

Tip (make it right) Tip (make it right) Abbreviations

USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels

Terminology USA Terminology UK Projects with intricate stitch patterns,

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

4. Cut the color A yarn and continue working with

3. Work 3 stitches, inserting the hook in the loop and

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

right, you have to work one extra stitch in the end of

8. Cut the color B yarn and continue working with

Crochet till the word ‘screw’, put prepared part of the

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

TIP: To help secure joints tightly I use medical forceps

If cotter pin has “round head”

Each joint consists of two fiberboard discs, 3 washers

Cotter Pin joints

Each joint consists of two fiberboard discs, 2 washers

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Right front leg 2 sc (15)

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Rnd 23. dec until the opening is closed. 1 sc = 14 sts

Back legs (make 2)

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

dec, 1 sc = 17 sts Rnd 4. (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts

Brush up the legs well and put them aside.

Attach back legs between sts marked with additional

Rnd 14. 9 sc, 1 inc, 23 sc = 34 sts

Body Rnd 18. 12 sc, 1 inc, 23 sc = 37 sts

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Stuff the body shaping it nicely.

If you want your dog to have two spots:

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Nose Made From Polymer Clay

2. Make two nostrils with blunt end of a pin.

3. Carefully tear the sides with sharp end of a pin.

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Make sure you read the instructions for your polymer

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Initial finishing of the head

2. Thread the needle with strong black thread. I

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

7. Glue the nose (if not using safety nose). Adjust

Neck for the adult dog

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Rnds 8-10. 1 sc in each st around = 27 sts

Stretch the bottom edge of the neck and attach it to the

Neck for the puppy

Add some stuffing to the neck. Find the right position

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

TIP: Do not stuff the neck too tightly, just enough

If you want your dog to be able to move the head, you

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

hook. Ch 1 and turn your work after each row