US-QUAL - P-QUAL-13-00 Master Defect

CORPORATE QUALITY SYSTEMS
00 Zone Grading
Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Julie Brogden

Issue Date: Version Page
Doc ID: P-QUAL-13.0-00 05/19/2010 Number 1.0 1 of 1
Zone Grading
Tops: Some defects will pass or fail depending on the zone that they are located in. Below is a
description of the zones used at HbI. For adults Zone A is on the front of the garment and is measured 6”
from the hem bottom and 2” from the edge of the sides. For youth garments Zone A is on the front of the
garments and is 4” from the hem bottom and 1” from the edge of the sides. The back and sleeves,
bottom and edges are sometimes referred to as “B Zone” or “Other Zone.”
ZONE A
Bottoms: Zone is the front of the garment. Zone B is the back of the garment.
Zone B: Back of
Zone A: Front of Garment
Garment
01-Yarn

GARMENT DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST
PRODUCT LINE: Tops & Bottoms

OPERATION: Yarn (001)
DEFECT DEFECT DESCRIPTION

CODE
301 Yarn streaks.
302 Heavy yarn barre.
305 Picked Yarn
308 Slubs
Outerwear: Any slub in zone A or greater than 1" in other zones
Underwear: (in all zones, see UW Defect Pictorial Guide)
A. Thickness that would be felt against the body while wearing the garment.
B. Obvious different color from the base fabric
C. Too frequent – more than 3 visible slubs in one garment panel.
311 Contaminated Yarn - foreign fibers, normally of a different color.

Underwear:
A. Greater than ¼" yarn contamination anywhere on garment.
B. More than 3 occurrences, less than ¼" yarn contaminations on entire garment
C. Woven Fabrics – obvious different color from the base fabric.
345 Any off size yarn (thin yarn), greater than 3" in zone A or greater than 6" in other zones.
Ralph Lauren—greater than 2" in zone A.
346 Off size yarn (thick yarn), greater than 1" in zone A, or greater than 3" in other zones.
347 Immature cotton
553 Defective elastic.

02-Knit/Weave


OPERATION: Knit / Weave (050)

CODE
300 Textile Holes (knit, lint, spreader, yarn, abrasion, sinker/needle)
Underwear only: Multiple birdeyes.—one or more birdeyes in Zone A. RL—One or more

303 birdeyes in front collar.
304 Any rundown or drop stitch.
305 Picked yarn.
Any end downs.

392 Woven’s – obvious off pattern, missing yarn, extra yarn that does not blend with the pattern
fabric.
529 Frayed collar
When the stripe is skewed/slanted greater than 1/2" from side to side of garment.
623 JMS, Men’s, and Women’s Activewear Only: >1.5”
Kids: >.5”
03-Dye/Bleach


OPERATION: Dye (120)
Bleach (130)

CODE
306 Off Shade (includes shade variation)
307 Any color spot in zone A or slight in other zones. (Blotchy dye, blotchy yellow, dirty tub
spots)
310 Heavy dye streak/migration in zone A.
319 Textile Soil (grease, dirt, rust, wax soil)
328 Heavy crack or rope marks in zones A.
341 Heavy white lines.

342 Body/Trim shading.
343 Body/Sleeve Shading.
391 Any pilling.
617 Socks: Shading

04-Finish


OPERATION: Finish (100)

CODE
300 Textile Hole (knit, lint, spreader, yarn, abrasion, sinker/needle)
314 Inferior cloth or harsh hand
319 Textile Soil (grease, dirt, rust, wax soil)
325 Bowed or skewed fabric.

Underwear—Skewed more than 1”.
350 Compactor mark, creases in zone A. Heavy compactor marks, creases in other zones.
Heavy sheen, chatter, pressure marks, abrasion, lint spots.
389 No nap, nap related (bad nap, cut nap)
391 Any pilling.
581 Torque on sides of garment
956 Softener Residue

05-Cutting/Slitting


OPERATION: Cutting (152)
Slitting (197)

CODE
326 Lot identification marks or other marks on fabric.
327 Mill seam.
329 Harsh hand.
344 Off center (such as hi/low shoulders or bigger front than back or vice versa).
Tubular cutting – armhole difference front to back –exceeding ½”.
366 Diagonally cut.
513 Excess trim off.
547 Garment length variation front to back greater than 1/2" (where stitching on underside of
hem is visible)
566 Burned fabric.
597 Pant Length Symmetry: When the difference between the two legs in "Length" on Adult is
greater than 3/4" (elastic leg), greater than 1/2"(adult hem leg, youth).
598 Pant Width Symmetry: When the difference between the two legs in "Width" is greater than
1/2".
757 A. Faulty cutting causing finished garment to be distorted or misshaped.
B. Fabric selvage line visible in the garment.
06-Sewing

Doc ID: P-QUAL-13-06 09/08/2015 Number 5.0 1 of 1

OPERATION: Sewing (399)

CODE
Mended Hole:
A. Any mended hole including fancy mending in zone A.
B. Any mend in sleeves (replace sleeve).
C. 'Fancy-mends' with excessive puckering > 1/8" (other zones only).
321 D. Any 'Fancy-mend' > 1/2" (holes), > than 1" (rundowns).
E. More than 3 'Fancy -mended' holes per garment.
F. More than 2 'Fancy-mended' rundowns per garment.
G. Multiple 'Fancy-mends' that are < 3" apart.
H. Any fancy mended hole in print area.
361 Wrong color thread
401 Needle Cuts
Incorrect stitch count (+/- 1 stitch). Stitches per inch must be set to the target listed on
502
the specification. Machines may NEVER be set to the lower tolerance for SPI.
Any skipped stitches - Any chain stitch.

503
Any single needle lockstitch (bobbin) seams, up to 2 skipped stitches allowed.
504 Any cut hole or feed cut.
Any broken stitch - Any chain stitch.

505
Any single needle lockstitch (bobbin) seams, up to 2 broken stitches allowed.
508 Reversed or inverted component parts (i.e. lycra, spandex).
522 Oil spots.
525 Any substitution or omission of component parts.
529 Rough or frayed seams (due to dull knife).

Strings & Excess Chain Off – Excessive strings on the outside of the garment. String
558 lengths should be no longer than what is allowed on the product specification. Activewear -
If not listed on the spec. strings should be no longer than 1/8”.
07-Measurements


OPERATION: Measurements (624)

CODE
SHOULDER STRAP WIDTH (Tank tops): When the measurement is above or below the
699 standard by more than 1/4" on adults and youth.
Underwear: See Specifications
COLLAR/ COLRET: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more than 1"
700 on adults and 3/4" on youths (measured flat).
LENGTH: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more than 1" on adults
and 3/4" on youths.
701 Shorts: when the measurement is above or below the standard by more than ¾” on adults
and ½” on youths.
WAIST: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more than 1" for adults
702 and 3/4" youths.
TRUNK: Measurements exceed standards.
704 Underwear: See specifications
WIDTH: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more than 1” on adults
707 and 3/4” on youths.
Underwear: See Specifications.
SLEEVE LENGTH (CBN): Long sleeves: when the measurement is above or below the
standard by more than 1" on adults and 3/4” on youths.
708 Short sleeves: when the measurement is above or below the standard by more than ¾” on
adults and ½” on youths.
INSEAM: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more than 1" for adults
and 3/4" for youths.
709
Underwear: See specifications
07-Measurements

DEFECT DESCRIPTION
DEFECT
CODE
RISE: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more than 1" for adults and
710 3/4" for youths.
711 THIGH: Underwear: See specifications
713 FLY OPENING: Measurements exceeds standards Underwear: See specifications
ARMHOLE: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more than ¾" on
715 adults and 1/2" on youth.
COLLAR/COLRET WIDTH: When the measurement is above or below the standard by

716 more than 1/4" on target of 1" and above and by more than 1/8" on below 1" target.
OTHER MEASUREMENTS: When other measurements that are not listed above fall out of
717
tolerance.
SEAT/ HIP: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more than 1" for
719
adults and 3/4" for youths. Underwear: See specifications
SWEEP: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more than 1" on adults
720 and 3/4" on youths.
ACROSS SHOULDER: When the measurement is above or below the standard by more
727 than 3/4".
SLEEVE/LEG/CUFF OPENING: When the measurement is above or below the standard by
more than 1/2". Shorts: when the measurement is above or below the standard by more
728 than 1” on adults and ½” on youths.
729 NECK STRETCH: When the measurement is below the minimum specification standard.
08-Attach Cuffs


OPERATION: Attach Cuff Top (328)
Attach Cuff Bottom (652)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts

503

505
507 Misaligned more than 1/4" at attach cuff to sleeve.
Cuff width measurement is below standard by more than 1/4" on cuff widths > than 1",
513 cuff width measurement is below standard by more than 1/8" on cuff widths < 1"
(excess trim off).
A) Waste or string sewn into seam that cannot be removed.

B) Lint inside of cuff (rib).
516
C) Underwear: Waste on the outside of the garment > ¼" in length or > than ½" inside
garment.
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat greater than 1/8”.
528 Puckered seam.
533 Improper repair.
534 Faulty stitching - body fabric or cuff layers not firmly caught by 50% of stitching.
537 Cuff width varying more than 1/4".

Underwear- Cuff width varying more than 1/8".
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.

08-Attach Cuffs


CODE
547 Underwear: Cuff length variation > than ¼"
551 Gathers unequally distributed. See pictorial
557 Inadequate elasticity or tension - if stitch breaks when pulled with slight tension.
558 Chain off more than 3/4". Activewear – Any strings greater than 1/8” in length.
559 Loose stitches.
563 Operation missing or incomplete.
753 Improper fold of rib. (i.e. spandex, lycra)

09-Attach/Hem Waistband


OPERATION: Attach Waistband (230)
Hem Waistband Four Needle (611)
Hem Waistband Two Needle (227)
DEFECT
DEFECT DESCRIPTION
CODE
401 Needle Cuts
422 Defective label (incorrect size, incorrect style, missing, inverted, cut, extra, incorrect color
code, illegible, faded, printing or graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches,
label misaligned +/- 3" from standard, improper sew space exposure, crooked.)
500 Stitch run off - extends over 1/8" from stitch line.

503

505
507 A) Misalignment of waistband seam side to side or center back of garment greater than
½"(seam placement – see specifications).
B) Misalignment of buttonhole more than 1/8" from top of waistband. (Can get cord out).
Fullness/distorted
A) Ruffle in top of waistband (none in front, 2" in back).
509 B) Flat spots in waistband.
513 Waistband width measurement below standard by more than 1/4" on bands > than 1",
below standard by more than 1/8" on bands < 1" (excess trim off).
516 A) Waste sewn into seam that cannot be removed.
B) Lint inside of band (rib).
garment
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat greater than 1/8" (relaxed band), pleat more than 1/4" (gathered band).
528 Puckered seam (relaxed bottom band).

09-Attach/Hem Waistband

DEFECT
DEFECT DESCRIPTION
CODE
537 Waistband width varying more than 3/8".
Underwear: Width variation varying more than 1/8"
534 Faulty stitching – body fabric not firmly caught by 50% of fabrics/stitches.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.

Underwear: Raw edge on outside of garment over ¼” in length or width or greater than ½”
inside of garment.
Underwear Boxers: Raw edge greater than 1” in width and 3/8” in height on the inside of the
garment
Overlap less than 1" or greater than 1 1/2". Exception: More than 1 ½" overlap is allowed if
549
stitching is aligned. New!
551 Gathers unequally distributed.
Defective elastic
553
A) Chain off to outside of garment (attach waistband).

B) Chain off more than ¾” inside the garment.
558 C) Chain off to outside of garment more than ¼” at bottom edge of elastic closure – Tagless
method.
D) In Activewear no strings greater than 1/8”
559 Loose stitches.
573 Hem starting or stopping on the front of the garment
753 Improper fold of rib (i.e. spandex, lycra).
944 Waistband logo off center more than ¼".

10-Close Sleeve

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Close Sleeve (463)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
500 Underwear: Stitch run off more than two stitches.

503

505
A) Misaligned more than 1/8" at cuff end.
507
B) Misaligned 1/4" at attach cuff seam.
516 Waste sewn into seam that cannot be removed.
Underwear: Waste on the outside of the garment > ¼" in length or > than ½" inside
garment
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat greater than 1/8".
528 Puckered seam.
More than 1/2" difference between cuff and/or sleeve width on same garment.
537
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
inside of garment.
558 Excessive Strings & Chain Off

Activewear – No Strings greater than 1/8”.
10-Close Sleeve


CODE
559 Loose stitches.
562 Missing latch tack (tieback) or more than 1/8" exposed at tip.
Symmetry - when the difference between the two sleeve/cuff openings is greater than
598
1/4" on cuff openings < 5", 1/2" on cuff opening > 5".
Underwear—when the difference between the two sleeve openings exceeds
specifications (See spec)
11-Attach Sleeve

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Attach Sleeve Set-in (218)
Attach Sleeve Raglan (229)

CODE
318 Fabric run - due to improper control of fabric (underarm).

401 Needle Cuts
503

505
Pieces not aligned.

A. Underarm seam and side of garment off more than 1/2" (youth/adult), 1/4" (infant) to
507 back and to front of garment.
B. Underarm seam and garment side seam off more than 1/2" in adult sport shirts to back
and to front of garment side seam.
509 Fullness resulting in distorted sleeves.
Waste sewn into seam that cannot be removed.
516 Underwear: Waste on the outside of garment over ¼" in length or width or greater than ½"
inside garment.
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat greater than 1/8" at close sleeve seam only (+/- 1")
528 Puckered seam.

538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.

inside of garment.
11-Attach Sleeve


CODE
558 Chain off greater than 3/4".
559 Loose stitches.
573 Wrong location of embellishment, when the logo is on the wrong sleeve.
579 (Armhole Symmetry) when the difference between the two armhole measurements is
greater than 3/4" on adults and 1/2" on youths, 1/4" infant.
Underwear: when the difference between the two armholes exceeds specifications (See
spec)
(Sleeve Length Symmetry) when the difference between the lengths of the two sleeves is
597
greater than 3/4" on adults and 1/2" on youths, 1/4" infant.
Underwear: When the difference between the two sleeves exceeds specifications (See
spec)
598 Measurement between front and back of seam greater than 3/4" adult, 1/2" youth, 1/4"
infant/toddler
Underwear—Measurement between front and back of seam greater than ½"
12-Cover Seam


OPERATIONS: Cover Seam Collar & Waistband (231)
Cover Seam Cuff (233)
Cover Seam Armhole (242)
Cover Seam Shoulder (244)
Cover Seam Hood (263)
Cover Seam Bottom (264)
Cover Seam Sleeve (265)
Cover Seam Pocket/Muff (266)
Cover Seam Side Panels (315)
Cover Seam Strap (341)
Cover Seam Elastic Band (342)
Cover Seam Side Frame (348)
Cover Seam Spliced Parts (653)
Cover Seam Side Seam (683)
Cover Seam Rise (Front/Back) (684)

CODE
Needle Cuts.
401
Any flip in collar area or more than one flip in armhole (flip located at shoulder seam only)
417
Exception: Front neck coverseam operation--more than one flip in collar area
500 Any stitch runoff

503

505
Misalignment on two needle coverseam where both rows of stitching are above or below
507 both rows of start up stitching greater than 1/2 the stitch gauge (i.e. stitch gauges =
1/8"(1/16" misalignment), stitch gauges = 1/4" (1/8" misalignment).
509 Fullness or distorted due to improper machine setting or improper fabric control.
Waste sewn into cover seam that cannot be removed.

516 Underwear: Waste on the outside of the garment > ¼" in length or > than ½" inside
garment
12-Cover Seam


CODE
521 Pleat. Exception: 1/8" (gathered waistband, gathered cuff).
528 Puckered seam.
Overlap less than 1" or greater than 1 1/2". Exception: More than 1 ½" overlap is
549
allowed if stitching is aligned.
Excessive Strings & Chain Off greater than 3/4".
558
559 Loose stitches.
Wrong location of starting and finishing more than:

A) 1 1/2" either side of shoulder seam for collar (231).
B) 1" either side of underarm for bottom band (231).
573 C) 3" above underarm seam to the back of garment or more than 1" from underarm
seam to the front.
D) 1" either side of underarm for spliced parts (653), sleeve(242).
E) Front neck cover seam: More than 3/4" or less than 1/4" to back of shoulder seam at
collar seam (231).
577 Extensions of coverseam beyond “V” neck no greater than ¼” symmetry.
598 Underwear: Symmetry: difference greater than ½” from one side to the other.
Body fabric or label caught in cover stitch or wide spots/ fullness due to improper fabric
610
control.
Cover stitching touching or crossing any seam.
635
Raglan - Cover stitching above the top row of cover seam of the collar.
13-Pocket/Muff/Bag/Flap Operations


OPERATION: Stitch Pocket/Muff (332)
Attach Pocket Flap (262)
Make Pocket Bag (555)
Make Pocket Flap (600)

CODE
Needle Cuts
401
Stitch run-off at pocket/muff sides or more than 3 stitches at end of pocket/muff.
500
503

505
A) Pocket/muff side to side misalignment no more than 1/2" fleece, 1/8" tee's & sport
shirts.
B) Pocket flap side-to-side misalignment to the pocket no more than 1/8".
507
C) Misaligned pocket on fold (+/- 1/2").
D) Pocket/Pocket Flap in wrong position (see specifications).
A) Fullness or distortion at pocket/muff sides.
509 B) Fullness or distortion at pocket/muff opening.
C) Misshaped curve in pocket.
A) Pocket/muff tilt 1/8"(tee's & sport shirts, 1/4" fleece).
512
B) Centered pocket to shirt front tolerance 1/2".
513 Excessive trim off
garment
520 Open seam.
13-Pocket/Muff/Bag/Flap Operations


CODE
521 Pleat
528 Puckered seam.
Stitch margin at pocket/muff sides, top, and/or bottom greater than 1/8" or less than
534
1/16".
537 Underwear: Width varying > 1/8"
538 Crooked seam.

A) Any raw edge.
B) Pockets “designed with raw edges”: 1/16” raw edge in curve of the pocket. 1/32”
542 raw edge for straight edge at top and bottom of pocket.
C) Underwear: Raw edge on outside of garment over ¼” in length or width or greater
than ½” inside of garment.
557 Inadequate elasticity or tension - tight stitches that break when pulled with slight tension.
Excessive Strings & Chain Off more than 3/4".
558
559 Loose stitches.
Pocket symmetry (pockets together) - 1/4" or more difference in length or width of pocket
597 /muff.
Pocket symmetry (pockets on opposite sides of the garment) - greater than 1/2"
598
difference in length or width from one side to the other.
14-Tack/Bar Tack


OPERATION: Tack Strap (221)
Tack Rolled Edges (235)
Tack Vents (237)
Tack Label (268)
Tack Liner (269)
Tack Shoulder (317)
Tack Gore (326)
Tack Wire Channel (334)
Tack Side Seam (521)
Tack Pocket/Muff (556)
Tack Waistband (558)
Tack Hood (601)
Tack Collar (632)
Tack Sleeves (639)
Tack Bow (668)
Tack Tape (685)
Tack Binding (686)
Tack Cup (687)
Tack Strap (688)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
503 Any skipped stitches.
A) Pocket/muff – bar tack misplaced or positioned incorrectly +/- 1/16" at corners.
B) Tack misaligned in hood more than a 1/2" from center on either side.
C) Bow misaligned greater than 1/8" on the center front of garment.
D) Shoulder seam misaligned greater than 1/16".
507 E) Position incorrect (vertical/ horizontal-see specification).
F) Bar tack incorrectly positioned more than 2 stitches on back panel.
G) Bar tack misaligned more than 1/4".
H) Misaligned more than 1/4" of inside of pocket bag showing.
I) Bar tack incorrectly positioned where quick cord is not caught.
516 Waste or extra thread sewn into bar tack that cannot be removed.

Underwear boxers: Raw edge greater than 1” in width and 3/8” in height on the inside of the
542
garment.
String more than 1/2" (bar tack).
558
14-Tack/Bar Tack


CODE
559 Loose stitches.
562 Shoulder tieback (latch tack) greater than 1/16".
598 Symmetry - when the difference is greater than 1/2" from one side to the other.
15-Attach Zipper


OPERATION: Attach Zipper (647)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts

503

505
Misalignment:
A) 1/4" at top of garment and/or bottom of waistband.
507
B) 1/8" at top of pocket and top of waistband.
C) Zipper positioned incorrectly more than 1/4" above or below bottom of garment.
509 Fullness or distorted due to stretching fabric.
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat
525 Wrong size/Incorrect color zipper.
528 Puckered seam
534 Faulty stitching - must be loose.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.

15-Attach Zipper


CODE
Excessive Strings & Chain Off
558
576 Defective zipper.

16-Make Hood


PRODUCT LINE: Tops
OPERATION: Make Hood (602)
Make Pocket Flap (600)

CODE
401 Needle Cut

503

505
Misalignment:
507 A) More than 1/4" at end of hood.
B) More than 1/8" at end of pocket flap.
Fullness, distorted, or misshaped hood due to improper machine setting or improper fabric
509
control.
513 Trim off - more than 2" seam to the front when making curve.

516
Underwear: Waste on the outside of the garment > ¼" in length or > than ½" inside garment
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat greater than 1/8"
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.

558
16-Make Hood


CODE
559 Loose stitches.

17-Attach Hood

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Attach Hood (605)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
Defective label (incorrect size, incorrect style, missing,
Inverted, cut, extra, illegible, fading, incorrect color code, printing or
graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches, improper sew space exposure,
crooked greater than 3/16", double label (book) not folded properly, where front of label is
422 not aligned with back of label greater than 1/8", Center of label misaligned +/- 1/4" from
center back of garment on labels greater than 3/4", center of label misaligned +/- 1/8"
from center back of garment on labels less than 3/4", joker label off center greater than
1/8" or inverted, distance between dual placement labels exceeds specs.

503

505
507 Back of hood seam off center more than 1/2".
509 Fullness, distorted, or misshaped hood or neck opening.
513 Excess trim off
520 Open seam.
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.

17-Attach Hood


CODE
542 Any raw edge.

559 Loose stitches.
562 Missing latch tack (tieback) or more than 1/8" on tip.
591 Hood overlap standard greater than 3/4" (-1/2"/+3/4"), other overlaps (-2/3 standard, +
two times the standard).
18-Open

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION:

CODE
19-Seam “U” & “V” Locker Patches


PRODUCT LINE: Tops
OPERATION: Seam "U"-"V" (245)
Locker Patch (656)
Attach Patch (303)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts

503

505
Misalignment - top of neckline or bottom of "V" /"U"/ Locker patch more than 1/4" from
507 centerfold.
garment
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge on sides and greater than 1/8" raw edge on tip out of stitches.

558
559 Loose stitches.
577 Symmetry greater than ¼” (V-Patch)

20-Topstitching


OPERATION: Topstitching Decoration (228)
Topstitching Collar (250)
Topstitching Armhole (253)
Topstitching Pocket (254)
Topstitching Pocket Flap (260)
Topstitching Elastic (261)
Topstitching Dart (267)
Topstitching Waistband (270)
Topstitching Other (271)
Topstitching Rectangle (551)
Topstitching Pocket Opening (614)
Topstitching Shoulders (642)
Topstitching Placket - Top (643)
Topstitching Placket - Bottom (644)
Topstitching Zipper (648)
Topstitching Sleeve (680)
Topstitching Rise (691)
Topstitching Sideseam (692)

CODE
Needle Cuts
500 Stitch runoff greater than 1 stitch.
503
505
507 Misalignment:
A) Tops: Zipper - Misalignment greater than 1/8” at either end of waistband, top of pocket
or top of zipper.
B) Bottoms: 1/4" at top garment and/or bottom of waistband.
C) Bottoms: 1/8" at top of pocket and at top of waistband.
509 Fullness.
garment
521 Pleat on outside of garment.
Exception: Placket pleat greater than 1/8" at edge of box.
528 Puckered seam.
20-Topstitching


CODE
A) T-shirts--Over 3/16" margin from bottom edge.
B) Tapered collar (1/16" from bottom edge).
C) Sport shirts--Stitch margin at placket sides, and/or bottom greater than 1/8".
534
D) Stitch margin at top of placket greater than 3/16"
E) Top stitch seam greater than 1/4"(pocket).
F) Greater than 3/8" margin (pocket flap).
537 Placket box width varying more than 1/16"
538 Crooked stitching.

Inadequate elasticity or tension - if stitch breaks when pulled with slight tension.
557
String off more than 3/4”.
559 Loose stitches.
562 Zipper - Missing back tack or more than 1/8” on tip.

Operation missing or incomplete.
563
Bottoms: Must sew to end of pocket opening. In line - 1/2" above or below pocket opening.
21-Hem All Operations


OPERATION: Hem Bottom/Double (471)
Hem Bottom/Single (214)
Hem Hood (601)
Hem Sleeve (462)
Hem Sleeve/Double (659)
Hem Neck (256)
Hem Armhole (257)
Hem Pocket/Muff (333)
Hem Legs Single Needle (313)
Hem Legs Elastic (606)
Hem Legs Two Needle (226)
Hem Waistband Four Needle (611)
Hem Waistband Two Needle (227)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
Defective label (incorrect size, incorrect style, missing, inverted, cut, extra, incorrect color
422 code, illegible, fading, printing or graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches,
label misaligned +/- 3" from standard, improper sew space exposure, crooked.)
Stitch run off - extends over 1/8" from stitch line.
500

503

505
Misalignment:
A) Misalignment on two needle hem where both rows of stitching are above or below both
rows of start up stitching greater than ½ the stitch gauge (i.e. stitch gauges = 1/8"(1/16"
507 misalignment), stitch gauges = ¼" (1/8" misalignment).
B) Misalignment of armhole front and back greater than 1” from standard
C) Overlap less than ½"
D) Bottoms: Misalignment of buttonhole more than 1/8" from top of waistband. (Can get
cord out).


CODE
Fullness:
A) Distorted due to improper machine setting or improper fabric control (twisted/ roping
509 hem).
B) Ruffle in top of waistband (none in front, 2" in back).
C) Flat spots in waistband.
D) No elasticity.
Waste sewn into seam or waste sewn in between layers of hem that cannot be removed.
516 Underwear: Waste must not have thickness that would be felt against the body while
wearing the garment. Waste on the outside of the garment > ¼" in length and width.
Waste on the Inside of garment greater than ½” in length and 1” in width
Open seam.
520 Underwear Woven Boxers Only – Greater than 3/8” on a single needle lockstitch in hem leg
operation only (no broken stitches).
521 Pleat greater than 1/8” on outside of garment.
525 Only one thread on two-needle hem.

528 Puckered seam.
Single needle - seam run off of 1" onto garment or hem.

534
Double needle - body fabric not firmly caught by 50% of stitch.
Hem width variation:

537
A) Greater than 1/4" (adult), 1/8"(youth/infant)
B) Greater than 1/8" on pocket/muff.
538 Crooked hem
Raw Edge:
A) Inside raw edge width more than 1/8" any location on the garment.
B) No raw edge on hem hood.
542 C) Underwear:
- Outside of garment over ¼” in length and ¼” in width.
- Inside of garment greater than ¼” continuous.
- Inside of garment greater than ½” in length and 1” in width (bottoms only).


CODE
Garment length variation front to back greater than 1/2" (where stitching on underside of hem is
547 visible).
Underwear: Does not apply, see defect code 538 crooked hem.
Overlap less than 1" or greater than 1 1/2". Exception: More than 1 ½" overlap is allowed if
549
stitching is aligned.
Gathers unequally distributed.
551
553 Defective elastic
String greater than 3/4”.

559 Loose stitches.
Operation missing or incomplete. This should also be used when stitch condensing is required
563
by the spec, but is missing.
Wrong location of start / finish sew.

573
A) Any start/finish that is to the front of garment (hem bottom).
B) Any start/finish that is more than 3/4" visible to the front of garment (circular hem sleeve).
22-Close Seams (Sleeves, Side Seams, Panel,
Crotch, Fly, Rises, Outseams, & Inseams)


OPERATION: Close Side Seam (201)
Close Sleeve and Side Seam (243)
Seam Panel (304)
Seam Crotch (316)
Make Fly (346)
Close Crotch (616)
Close Fly (617)
Inseam (618)
Close Rise (635)
Close Back Rise & Attach Label (657)
Close Side Seam & Label (661)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts

Underwear: Operation Seam Panel (304) More than one needle cut in panel binding.
Defective label (incorrect size, incorrect style, missing, inverted, cut, extra, incorrect color
code, faded, illegible) printing or graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches,
improper sew space exposure, crooked greater than 3/16", double label (book or
422 prestitched) not folded properly, where front of label is not aligned with back of label greater
than 1/8", Center of label misaligned +/- 1/4" from center back of garment on labels greater
than 3/4", center of label misaligned +/- 1/8" from center back of garment on labels less
than 3/4", joker label off center greater than 1/8" or inverted, distance between dual
placement labels exceeds specs.
503

505


CODE
A) Misaligned parts more than 1/8” at cuff end or hem leg.
B) Misaligned more than 1/4” at attach cuff to sleeve.
C) Either side seam misaligned more than 1/2" to the front of the garment or more than
1/2" to the back of the garment.
507
D) Misaligned at top of close back more than 1/8".
E) Stitch misaligned at hem waist more than 1/4".
F) Misalignment in crotch more than 1/8”
G) Misaligned at inseam more than 1/4".
509 Fullness resulting in distorted panel
513 Excessive trim off.
A) Waste or string sewn into seam that cannot be removed.

516 B) Lint inside of cuff.
garment
Any Open Seam
520
Underwear Woven Boxers Only – Greater than 3/8” on a single needle lockstitch in front
rise operation only (no broken stitches).
528 Puckered seam.

537 Cuff width variation > 1/2”.
538 Crooked seam.
Any raw edge.
542 Underwear: Raw edge on outside of garment over ¼” in length or width or greater than ½”
inside of garment.
547 Cuff length variation greater than 3/8".
Chain off greater than 3/4”.


CODE
559 Loose stitches.
562 Missing latch tack (tieback) or more than 1/8” exposed on tip.
Exposed rubber:
570
Underwear: More than 1/8” exposed at join leg binding.
581 Leg torque - where the seam on the side of the leg is twisted more than 1/2".
Symmetry - when the difference between the two sleeve /cuff openings or leg openings is
greater than 1/4".
597
Underwear: when the difference between the two sleeve/cuff openings exceeds
Pant Width Symmetry: When the difference between the two legs in "Width" is greater
598
than 1/2".
23-Bind
Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : John Thomas


OPERATION: Bind Neck (204)
Bind Armhole (238)
Bind Bottom (239)
Bind Hood (261)
Bind Panel (300)
Bind Legs (306)
Bind Waist (321)
Bind Sleeves (467)
Bind Blanket (674)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
Defective label (incorrect size, incorrect style, missing, inverted, cut, extra, illegible, faded,
incorrect color code, printing or graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches,
improper sew space exposure, crooked greater than 3/16", double label (book) not folded
422 properly, where front of label is not aligned with back of label greater than 1/8", Center of
label misaligned +/- 1/4" from center back of garment on labels greater than 3/4", center of
label misaligned +/- 1/8" from center back of garment on labels less than 3/4", joker label off
center greater than 1/8" or inverted, distance between dual placement labels exceeds specs.
500 Any stitch runoff.

503

505
Fullness:
A) Distorted, or misshapen neck opening.
509 B) Armhole - distorted where more than 1” of the body fabric shows between the front and
back bindings.
C) Underwear: Armhole distorted where more than ½" body fabric shows between the front
and back bindings.
510 Creeper--difference between the body fabric of the two legs is greater than 1/2"
513 Excess trim off causing a distorted appearance with garment laid flat.
23-Bind
Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : John Thomas


CODE
516 Underwear: Waste on the outside of garment > ¼" in length or width, greater than ½" inside
garment.
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
534 Over 1/8" stitch margin from top or bottom edge.
Tops: Width variation greater than 1/8”.

537
Bottoms: Width variation greater than 1/4"
538 Crooked seam.

540 Inadequate or excessive body material
Any raw edge.
542 Underwear: Raw edge on outside of garment over ¼” in length or width or greater than ½”
inside of garment.
554 Incorrect or defective rubber.

Inadequate elasticity or tension - if stitch breaks when pulled with slight tension.
557

558
559 Loose stitches.
570 Exposed rubber.

Missing Print.
614 Underwear: Missing Print on leg binding greater than ¼” (due to printed tubular fabric).
Note: On Contrast binding, the appearance of missing print cannot be obvious.
24-Rib Trim

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Rib Trim Armhole (200)
Rib Trim Hood (246)
Rib Trim Side Panels (247)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts

503

505
507 Pieces not aligned. Underarm seam and side of garment off more than 1/2” (adult & youth),
1/4" infant.
Fullness:
509 Distorted armhole, where more than 1” body fabric shows between the front and back
armhole bindings.

516
garment
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat greater than 1/8”.
528 Puckered seam.
537 Trim width varying by 1/8” or more.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
24-Rib Trim


CODE

558
25-Side Seam


OPERATION: Side Seam (201)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
Defective label (incorrect size, incorrect style, missing, inverted, cut, extra, incorrect
color code, illegible, faded, printing or graphics partially covered, label not caught by all
422 stitches, center of label misaligned +/- ½" from specification, improper sew space
exposure, crooked.) Double label (book) not folded properly, where front of label is not
aligned over back of label by more than 1/8”.

503
505
Either side seam misaligned more than 1/2" to the front of garment or more than 1/2" to
507 the back of garment.

garment
520 Open seam.

528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
Any raw edge.
542 Underwear: Raw edge on outside of garment over ¼” in length or width or greater than
½” inside of garment.
558
559 Loose stitches.
562 More than 1/8” left on tieback or no tieback.
25-Side Seam


CODE
26-Seam V-Neck and Pinch “V”

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Seam V-Neck (222)
Pinch "V" (210)

CODE
401 Needle Cut
422 Defective label (incorrect size, incorrect style, missing,
Inverted, cut, extra, incorrect color code, faded, printing or
Graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches, improper sew space exposure,
crooked greater than 3/16", double label (book) not folded properly, where front of label is
not aligned with back of label greater than 1/8", Center of label misaligned +/- 1/4" from
center back of garment on labels greater than 3/4", center of label misaligned +/- 1/8" from
center back of garment on labels less than 3/4", joker label off center greater than 1/8" or
inverted, distance between dual placement labels exceeds specs.

503

505
Top of "V" misaligned 3/16" or more. "V" seam at angle - misaligned more than 1/4" from
center of garment.
507 Top of "V" misaligned more than 1/8"(pinch).
"V" tilted more than 3/16" (pinch).
509 Misshaped "V" or distorted neck.
516
garment
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat
528 Puckered seam.
537 V-neck width varying by 1/8" or more.
542 Any raw edge.
26-Seam V-Neck and Pinch “V”


CODE
559 Loose stitches.
27-Set Placket

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Set Placket (628)

CODE
401 Needle Cut
503

505
507 Placket misalignment

520 Open seam.

521 Pleat greater than 1/8" in width at edge of box.
528 Puckered seam.

538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
547 Placket length variation > 3/8".
559 Loose stitches

28-Close & Box Placket

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Close & Box Placket (649)

CODE
Keyhole greater than 1/8"– When there is a pleat in the box at the bottom of the placket
362
and the pleat is greater than 1/8”
401 Needle Cuts

500 Stitch runoff more than 1 stitch.
503
504 Any cut hole or feed cut

505

520 Open seam.
521 Pleat greater than 1/8" in width at edge of box.
528 Puckered seam.

538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
557 Inadequate elasticity or tension if stitch breaks when pulled with slight tension
558 Excess string over 1/8".
559 Loose stitches.
29-Stitch Vent


OPERATION: Stitch Vent (646)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
500 Stitch runoff greater than 3 stitches.

503
505
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat
528 Puckered seam.
537 Width variation greater than 1/8".
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
557 Inadequate elasticity or tension if stitch breaks when pulled with slight tension
String more than 3/4"
559 Loose stitches.
564 Missing back tack.
597 Vent length symmetry - side to side greater than 1/4".
30-Buttonhole

PRODUCT LINE: Bottoms & Tops

OPERATION: Buttonhole Bottoms (608)
Buttonhole Tops (630)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
502 Buttonhole greater than standard more than 1/8".

503

505
Tops: Buttonholes misaligned from specification greater than 1/8"
Bottoms:
507
A) Vertically mispostioned from top or bottom of waistband greater than 1/4".
B) Horizontally mispositioned from center seam greater than 1/4".
516 Waste sewn into buttonhole that cannot be removed.
521 Pleat
530 Pellon exposed.
String more than ½”.
559 Loose stitches.
31-Attach Buttons


OPERATION: Attach Button (631)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
418 Broken Grommet/Grip/Button/Snap
505 Any broken stitch.
507 Buttons misaligned with buttonholes.
521 Pleat
525 Button incorrect color and/or size.

559 Loose stitches.
582 Button insecure.
32-Heat Seal


OPERATION: Heat Seal (460)
Fuse Logo Tag (470)
Sew Logo Tag (259)
Heat Seal Transfer Print (472)
Pad Printing (478)

CODE
386 Incorrect heat seal/Logo tag.
Defective label or tag—incorrect size, incorrect style, label missing, inverted, illegible,
printing or graphics partially covered, not secure, wrinkled, smeared, missing print or
422
lettering.
Heat seal/Logo tag crooked –uneven from side to side greater than 1/8".
500 Stitch runoff of more than 2 stitches. (Sew logo tag only)
Any skipped stitches. (Sew logo tag only)
503

Any broken stitches. (Sew logo tag only)
505
Heat seal misaligned (greater than 1/2" from target - measured horizontally). See
specifications for appropriate target(s).
Heat seal misplaced (greater than 1/4" from target - measured vertically). See
507
specifications for appropriate target(s).
Underwear Bottoms Only – (greater than 1” from target – measured horizontally) or greater
than ½” from target – measured vertically) NEW!
525 Incorrect thread color. (Logo tag only)
Stitch margin over 1/8" at top, bottom, and/or sides; or less than 1/16" at top, bottom,
534 and/or sides. (Sew logo tag only)
String greater than 1/2". (Sew logo tag only)
558
Operation missing or incomplete.
563
Burned fabric.
566
573 Wrong location of embellishment.
33-Seam Shoulder

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Seam Shoulder
1st (203)
2nd (208)
Both (202)
Tape Reinforcement (619)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts

503

505
A) 2nd (208) - Misaligned at edge of collar and /or shoulder seam more than 1/8".
507 B) Both (202) - Misaligned more than 1/4" excess fabric at collar due to bad cutting (In-
line).
A) 2nd (208) Dropped shoulder where seam drops below the bottom edge of display tape.
B) Both (202) Dropped shoulder more than 1/2" from other shoulder (high/low shoulders).
514
Underwear: Dropped shoulder where seam drops ¾" below the display tape.
Ralph Lauren: Dropped shoulder where seam drops ¼" below the display tape.
garment
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
Any raw edge.
33-Seam Shoulder


CODE
Chain off more than 3/4"
559 Loose stitches.
562 More than 1/8" left on collar tieback.
598 A) Shoulder symmetry > 1/2" adult, 3/8" youth (the difference between the two shoulder
seams).
B) Shoulder strap symmetry > 1/4" (Tank tops - the difference between the two shoulder
strap seams).
757 Shoulder seam rolls to front or back more than 1/4" from standard.
34-Collar: Run-On, Set-In, Knit

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Collar
Run-on (205)
Set-In (209)
Knit (welt) (636)
Tapered (356)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts.

Inverted, cut, extra, incorrect color code, printing or
Graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches, illegible, faded, improper
sew space exposure, crooked greater than 3/16", double label (book or prestitched ) not
422 folded properly, where front of label is not aligned with back of label greater than 1/8",
Center of label misaligned +/- 1/4" from center back of garment on labels greater than
3/4", center of label misaligned +/- 1/8" from center back of garment on labels less than
3/4", joker label off center greater than 1/8" or inverted, distance between dual
placement labels exceeds specs).
503
505
A) Set-In – Collar misaligned more than 1/2" to the front or 1 1/2" to the back.
B) Knit (welt)--Collar misaligned with top end of placket standard (3/4) +/- 1/4". One
507 side of placket higher than the other side more than 1/8" at top of placket (not
buttoned).
C) Display greater than 3/4" away from placket (sport shirt).
509 Fullness, distorted or misshapen neck opening.
A) 2nd (208) Dropped shoulder where seam drops below the bottom edge of display
tape.
514
B) Both (202) Dropped shoulder more than 1/2" from other shoulder (high/low
shoulders).
garment
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat.
34-Collar: Run-On, Set-In, Knit


CODE
528 Puckered seam.

A) Collar width varying by 1/4" or more on target of 1" and above.
537 B) Collar width varying by 1/8" or more on below 1" target.
Underwear: Width varying more than 1/8"
538 Crooked seam.

Any raw edge.
Chain off more than 3/4"
559 Loose stitches.
562 More than 1/8" left on collar tieback.

A) Shoulder symmetry > 1/2" adult, 3/8" youth (the difference between the two
shoulder seams). Fold Garment at Center front and compare shoulder
598 symmetry.
B) Shoulder strap symmetry > 1/4" (Tank tops - the difference between the two
shoulder strap seams).
753 Improper fold of rib (i.e. spandex, lycra)
757 Shoulder seam rolls to front or back more than 1/4" from standard.
35-Tape Shoulder/Neck


PRODUCT LINE: Tops
OPERATION: Tape Shoulder/Neck (236)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts.
417 A) Stitching misaligned greater than 3 flips (twist) per garment.

B) More than 2 flips per shoulder.
C) More than 1 flip in collar area.
422 Defective label (incorrect size, incorrect style, missing,
Graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches, improper sew space
exposure, crooked greater than 3/16", double label (book or prestitched) not folded
properly, where front of label is not aligned with back of label greater than 1/8", Center of
label misaligned +/- 1/4" from center back of garment on labels greater than 3/4", center
of label misaligned +/- 1/8" from center back of garment on labels less than 3/4", joker
label off center greater than 1/8" or inverted, distance between dual placement labels
exceeds specs.
503

505
509 Fullness, distorted.
516 Waste sewn into seam that cannot be removed

garment
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam
538 Crooked stitching

35-Tape Shoulder/Neck


CODE
557 Inadequate elasticity or tension-if stitch breaks when pulled with slight tension.

635 Cover stitching crossing any seam.

Exception: Two stitches are allowed to cross shoulder seam at collar seam only.
945 Stitching not centered by more than +/-1/16".

36-Display

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Display (207)
Display (Sport Shirt/Polo) (637)
Twill Tape Display (681)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts.

Inverted, cut, extra, incorrect color code, printing or
Graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches, illegible, faded, improper sew
space exposure, crooked greater than 3/16", double label (book or prestitched) not

503

505
A) More than 6 stitches beyond the shoulder seam or more than 1/2" unstitched inside
first shoulder seam.
506
B) Stitching that does not touch the shoulder seam on the inside of the garment
C) Four or more stitches into placket
509 Fullness.
garment
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.

36-Display


CODE
A) Over 3/16" margin from bottom edge.
534
B) Width of back display stitch less than 1/16" from collar seam.
538 Crooked stitching.
542
inside of garment.
559 Loose stitches.
611 Print smears (twill tape sport shirt/polo).
614 Missing or wrong print (twill tape sport shirt/polo).

37-Over Edge Serge


Over Edge/Serge: Bottom (216)
Sleeve (234)
Placket (248)
Neck (249)
Legs (320)
Armhole (324)
Crotch (327)
Fly (345)
Vent (645)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts

503

505
A) Misalignment of armholes greater than 1/4".
507
B) Misalignment of bottom from front to back greater than 1/2".
510 Distorted armhole, where more than 1" body fabric shows between the front and back.

garment
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
537 Variance greater than 1/8" or more.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
Chain off greater than 3/4".
559 Loose stitches.
37-Over Edge Serge

38-Grommets, Grippers, Hooks, & Eyes


OPERATION: Grommets (603)
Grippers/Snaps (667)
Hooks (353)
Eyes (354)

CODE
318 Fabric run (due to improper fabric control)
418 Broken Grommet/Grip/Button.

Gripper/snap placement:
A) Horizontally-not centered > 1/4"
420 B) Vertically--Any part of gripper outside of binding.
Grommet not securely affixed - fabric cut caused by grommet.

504
Cut hole, feed cut.
A) In-line placement - 1 1/2" (+/- 1/4") from bottom of hood.

B) Finished - Grommet misaligned greater than 1" (+/- 1/4") from edge of hood opening or
507 from neck edge of hood to center of grommet.
C) Greater than 1/4" variation from grommet to grommet.
D) Gripper/Snap misaligned greater than 1/4" from gripper/snap to gripper/snap.
508 Grommet/Gripper/Snap on backwards.
521 Pleat.

39-Printing & Embroidery

Version Page
Doc ID: P-QUAL-13.0-39 02/23/2015
Number 4.0 1 of 2

OPERATION: Printing (473)
Embroidery (641)

CODE
309 Knot
361 Wrong color thread
473 Inks mixed in screen
533 Faulty repair
563 Incomplete embroidery
566 Burned fabric
567 Scorched fabric
573 Wrong location of embellishment
602 Improper cure (cracking)
603 Wrong/ incorrect print-ink colors do not match with spec.
Fit (Registration) > 1/32" tolerance
604 Underwear: > 1/8" tolerance
605 Pinholes
607 Heavy prints
611 Smears
612 Lint Spots
613 Creases
614 Missing print.
615 Incorrect embroidery thread sequence
616 Poor Penetration
617 Shade
618 Streaks
Embroidery/ Print misplacement in length or width +/- ½". See specification for appropriate
619
target(s).
620 Embroidery/Print Skewed / misaligned +/- 3/16" See specifications for appropriate target(s).
39-Printing & Embroidery

Version Page
Doc ID: P-QUAL-13.0-39 02/23/2015
Number 4.0 2 of 2

CODE
When the stripe is skewed/slanted from one side of the garment the other side of the
garment >1/2”.
623
JMS, Men’s, and Women’s Activewear Only: >1.5”
Kids: >.5”
655 Double Embroidery
656 Bobbin thread
657 Mottling of inks
658 Excessive fabric stretch
659 Pressed embroidery
660 Thinning
661 Soil (excessive ink, oil, dirt, grease).
662 Loose embroidery
663 Excess adhesive
664 Excess glitter
665 Pallet marks
666 Incorrect inks
667 Incorrect logo size
668 Poor adhesion

40-Close Waistband/Cuff/Collar/Stirrup


OPERATION: Close Cuff (219)
Close Collar (224)
Close Band (225)
Make Elastic Band, Waistband (456)
Close Stirrup (655)
DEFECT
DEFECT DESCRIPTION
CODE
305 Picked Fabric (picked elastic from sewing)
401 Needle Cuts
503
505
507 Misaligned parts more than 1/8" at seam.
513 Excessive trim off.
Waste or string sewn into seam that cannot be removed.

516
Underwear: Waste on the outside of the garment > ¼" in length or > than ½" inside garment
520 Open seam.
528 Puckered seam.
Rough or frayed seams (due to dull knife).
529
Underwear Waistbands Only – Strings greater than ¼”

537 Width variation
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
547 Length variation > 1/4".
40-Close Waistband/Cuff/Collar/Stirrup

DEFECT
DEFECT DESCRIPTION
CODE
557 Inadequate elasticity or tension: if stitch breaks when pulled with slight tension.
Chain off more than 3/4".
559 Loose stitches.
562 Missing latch tack OR thread loops/strings more than 1/8” on exposed edge of band.
Symmetry - when the difference between the two sleeves or cuff openings is greater than
1/4".
598 Underwear: when the difference between the two sleeves or cuff opening exceeds
41-Seam Dart

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Seam Dart Body (220)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
503

505
516 Waste or string sewn into seam that cannot be removed.

garment
520 Open seam.
528 Puckered seam.
537 Length variation > 1/2".
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
558 Strings exposed.

559 Loose stitches.
42-Attach Layer

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Attach Layer Sleeve (464)
Attach Layer Neck (627)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts

503

505
509 Fullness, distorted, or misshapen neck opening.
516 Waste or string sewn into seam that cannot be removed.
520 Open seam.
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
547 Sleeve layer length variation side to side greater than 1/2".
Chain off greater than 3/4".
559 Loose stitches.
When the front neck drop variation difference between the outside neckline and inside
729
neckline is greater than (- 1/4" / +1/2").
43-String Hood, Pant, and Short


OPERATION: String Hood (604)
String Pant/Short (612)

CODE
319 Soiled string.
507 String not placed along folded edge of hood.
521 Pleat.
525 Incorrect string length.
530 Pellon, elastic, threads and/or fabric exposed.
577 String not evenly pulled through hood - greater than 1" difference between ends.
588 Rough or frayed string.
598 String not evenly pulled through pant/short greater than 1" difference between ends.
44-Attach Stripe/Piping


OPERATION: Attach Stripe/Piping (355)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts.

503

505
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.

558
559 Loose stitches.
45-Attach Lining


OPERATION: Attach Lining (690)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts
500 Stitch run off
503 Any skipped stitches - Any chain stitch.
505 Any broken stitch - Any chain stitch.
516 Waste sewn into seam that cannot be removed. Underwear: Waste on the outside of the
garment > ¼" in length or > than ½" inside garment
520 Open seam.
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
557 Inadequate elasticity or tension if stitch breaks when pulled with slight tension.
558 String more than 3/4".
46-Attach Wire Channel

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Attach Wire Channel (343)

CODE
401 Needle Cuts

503

505
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.

559 Loose stitches.
47-Attach Cup

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Attach Cup (344)

CODE
401 Needle Cut.

503

505
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
559 Loose stitches.

48-Attach Strap

PRODUCT LINE: Tops

OPERATION: Attach Strap (349)

CODE
401 Needle Cut
503
505
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
559 Loose stitches.

49-Attach Gore/Gusset


OPERATION: Attach Gore (351)
Attach Gusset (689)

CODE
401 Needle Cut
503

505
Waste sewn into seam that cannot be removed. Underwear: Waste on the outside of the
516 garment > ¼" in length or > than ½" inside garment
520 Open seam.

521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
Chain off more than 3/4".
559 Loose stitches.
50-Attach Elastic / Lace, Attach Elastic &
Label


OPERATION: Attach Lace Bottoms (252)
Attach Leg Elastic (319)
Sew Waist Elastic (336)
Attach Elastic / Lace (337)
Attach Elastic & Label (610)

CODE
401 Needle Cut
Graphics partially covered, label not caught by all stitches, illegible, improper sew
space exposure, crooked greater than 3/16", double label (book or prestitched) not
503

505
Waste sewn into seam that cannot be removed. Underwear: Waste on the outside of
516 the garment > ¼" in length or > than ½" inside garment
520 Open seam.

521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
A) Faulty stitching – body fabric not firmly caught by 50% of stitches.
534
B) Elastic not caught in over edge.
537 Width varying > 1/8".
50-Attach Elastic / Lace, Attach Elastic &
Label


CODE
538 Crooked seam.
Any raw edge. Underwear: Raw edge on outside of garment over ¼” in length or
542
width or greater than ½” inside of garment.
558 Chain off > ¾"
559 Loose stitches.
583 The leg to waist measurements on the right side and the left side should not differ by
more than ½", ¼"(bikini and thong)
51-Sock Only
Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Judy Salgado


PRODUCT LINE: Socks
OPERATION: Socks
*Bold letters indicate actual verbiage in ApparelNet.
CODE
117 Rough fabric – Roughness / Pilling
120 Ringing – or barre
121 Misplait (color)
122 Toe Seam Hole – (knitted) closed toe open stitch
123 Missing Toe Seam Thread
124 Seamed Past Gore
128 Yarn Out – Missing Yarn
130 Broken Needle
132 Mis-terry
133 Looping out
135 Size Off
134 Tack down
137 Logo or Pattern Issues
138 Double Terry
140 Misplait (Yarn) - Sandwich Plaiting
141 Accent color missing
143 Missed or Showing Window at sock toe seam
144 Wavy Toe Seam

51-Sock Only
Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Judy Salgado


CODE
145 High Splice Strings
146 Defective or Incomplete Gore
147 Distorted Stitch / Tuck Stitch
156 Open Gore Stitch – No Runs
165 Strings
166 Knit Caught Up (X-Defect)

Float Threads (Inf/Toddler) – Not allowed in the foot (base of ankle to toe) of any infant
221
toddler sock size 0-36 months..
String >3/4” (Inf/Toddler) – Not allowed in the foot (base of ankle to toe) of any infant
222
toddler sock size 0-36 months..
300 Holes – gore holes, holes in top or body of sock
303 Bird Eyes – partial dropped stitches
305 Picks
308 Slub or Lint
309 Sock Knots
311 Contaminated Yarn
319 Soil Spots – Dirt / Oil / Grease / Rust
324 Sinker / Needle Line - Bad Sinker / Jack / Needle
520 Open Seam – Smooth Toe – Open Toe Seam
521 Pleat – Toe Pleat
558 Excessive Chain Off – in the toe seam
617 Off Shade or Shading

52-Fell Panel Woven

PRODUCT LINE: Woven Bottoms

OPERATION: Fell Panel (622)

CODE
401 Needle Cut

500 Stitch run off.
503 Any skipped stitches - Any chain stitch.
505 Any broken stitch - Any chain stitch.
garment
520 Open seam.
521 Pleat.
528 Puckered seam.
534 Faulty stitching.
537 Width varying > 1/8".
538 Crooked seam.
542 Any raw edge.
Underwear Boxers: Raw edge greater than 1” in width and 3/8” in height inside of
garment.
558 Chain off more than ¾"

559 Loose stitches.
52-Fell Panel Woven


CODE

53 – All Bra, Seamless & Shapewear Defect
Codes
Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Charlie Brown


PRODUCT LINE: Bras
OPERATIONS:
Yarn (001) Neck Hem/bind (204) Tape Shoulder/Neck (236)
Attach Backs (003) Tack Strap (221) Armhole hem/bind (238)
Attach Centers (004) Topstitching Decoration (228) Sewing (399)
Attach Hooks & Eyes (005) Topstitching Collar (250) Printing (473)
Molding (006) Tack Wire Channel (334) Pad Print (478)
Boarding (007) Sew Waist Elastic (336) Tack Waistband (558)
Join Top/Bottom Cups (008) Attach Elastic/Lace (337) Grommets (603)
Topstitching Cup (009) Cover Seam Strap (341) Measurement (624)
Make Center Front (010) Attach Wire Channel (343) Tack Bow (668)
Join Side Bk to Bk Panel (011) Attach Cup (344) Display Twill Tape (681)
Join Inner to Outer Cup (012) Attach Strap (349) Tack Tape (685)
Knit (050) Attach Hooks (353) Tack Cup (687)
Finish (100) Attach Eyes (354)
Side Seam (201) Attach Waistband (230)

CODE
010 Molding Defects - Incorrect mold depth or diameter (deep & shallow). Bubbles or Rings.
011 Delamination – Separation of components/fabrics
110 Pattern Incorrect - Needle marks or marks caused by selector issues.
117 Rough Fabric – Towel Appearance

Yarn Out – Missing yarn in the logo, on the body, in the crotch, in the top band, or the bottom
128
band.
140 Misplait – anywhere in the garment.
Sharp Edges or Points - Hook and Eye not attached according to specifications leaving sharp
166
edges or points – NEW!
208 Pattern Marks and Sewing Soils
Excess Yarn – Uneven fabric appearance caused by wrong end, double ends, or wrong size
209
yarns, creating heavy rings.
210 Unraveling
211 Broken Band – Broken make up loops or transfer loops.
212 Wavy Band
213 Kisses
Codes


CODE
214 Boarding Lines

215 Missing hook or eye.
216 Excess Fabric in Cup
217 Collapsed Cups From Tight Fabric
219 Moiré
Sticker left on garment – Any QC, auditor, count sticker, defect indicator sticker, or sticker
220
of any type other than those required by the specification, left behind and not removed
before the garment is placed in the case or package.
300 Hole in fabric
303 Bird eyes
304 Rundown or Drop stitch
305 Picks - all operations
306 Off Shade Components / Shade Variation
308 Slub – Any Slub greater than 1” or any knot greater than ¼”.
Contamination - Contaminated Yarn: Exterior: One pin point in front and one on back <=
311 1/32” in Diameter. Interior: Up to three small spots <=1/16”.
312 Heavy or Light Yarn or Barré
315 Wireplay Measurement out of tolerance or Defective Wire
318 Fabric Run
319 Soil Spots - Dirt, Oil, Grease
324 Sinker / Needle Line - Needle Tracking - Needle marks or marks caused by selector
issues.
327 Mill Seams and Splices
335 Blotchy/Dye Spots - Sediment
339 Shade variation or difference

Codes


CODE
360 Torqueing
386 Logo/Label Defective or Missing
387 Burnt Cups
390 Crushed/Wrinkled Cups – Crushed / Wrinkled Garments

Needle Cuts Only
401
417 Flips/Flipping
418 Broken Button, Snap, Hook & Eye, etc.

Defective Label - Defective Pad Print or Insert Label (incorrect size, incorrect style, missing,
inverted, cut, extra, incorrect color code, illegible, faded, printing or graphics partially covered,
422
label not caught by all stitches, label misaligned +/- 1/8" from standard, improper sew space
exposure, crooked.
500 Stitch run-off
502 Wrong Stitch Count SPI

503
Any single needle lockstitch (bobbin) seams, up to 2 skipped stitches allowed. – REVISED!
504 Feed Cut / Cut Hole – Any Hole within 1” of a seam
505 Broken Stitches
507 Misalignment
508 Reversed or Inverted parts, twisted straps
509 Fullness and / or distortion
516 Waste sewn-in (Trash)
520 Open Seam – Fabric not caught
521 Pleats
528 Puckered Seam
529 Rough or Frayed Seams
533 Improper Repair

Codes


CODE
Raw Edge – Margin – Poor Seam - Seam allowance incorrect.
- Exterior – None allowed unless called out in the product specification.
542
- Interior – If not stated as an irritant in the Spec, then a “raw edge” greater than 1/16” in
length and / or greater than 1” in width.
553 Defective Elastic
557 Elasticity Inadequate

Chain Off / Strings – Any string greater than 1/8” on the outside or greater than ¼” on the
558
inside.
562 Missing or Incorrect Latch Tack
563 Operation Missing or Incomplete – Component, Bow, motif, lace, etc…
570 Exposed Spandex or Rubber

Symmetry/Uneven - Uneven alignment of components. Leg opening symmetry, Strap
577
Symmetry****
597 Length Symmetry or Measurement variation
598 Width Symmetry or Measurement variation
613 Creases – Crease Marks
620 Skewed / Misaligned – Bow Lace, other trims
658 Excessive Fabric Stretch
663 Excessive adhesive (glue)
717 Measurements – Flat measurements out of tolerance.
764 Adhesive Inadequate (Not Holding)
831 Incorrect or Wrong Size
921 Creases Folded in - Folding Lines
949 Tension (tight end) – yarn tension

54 – All Accessory Defect Codes
Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Hitesh Maheshwari

Doc ID: P-QUAL-13.0-54 09/20/2016 Number 1 1 of 5

PRODUCT LINE: Accessories
OPERATIONS: Make Accessory (060)
1. MATERIAL FOR ACCESSORIES

CODE
300 Hole - Hole or weakening defect that could develop into a hole
305 Snags/Pulls/Picks
306 Off Shade - Color shading between garments
308 Slub Or Lint

310 Obvious Dye Streaks – Color Streaks
318 Fabric Run
324 Sinker/Needle Line - Needle Streaks

325 Bowed or skewed fabric
329 Harsh Hand – Lost Texture
334 Blotchy / Yellowing - White/light material that is yellowing
335 Uneven Dying

342 Color shading within the panel
345 Thin Yarn - Incorrect denier, construction, or grade
346 Thick Yarn - Incorrect denier, construction, or grade

371 Offensive Odor
372 Color migration/bleeding

436 Light Fabric - Incorrect weight (variance < 5%)
437 Heavy Fabric - Incorrect weight (variance > 5%)
529 Rough/Frayed Seams


1. MATERIAL FOR ACCESSORIES CONTINUED

CODE
617 Off Shade or Shading - Discoloration

721 Damaged - Scratched or Damaged Materials
2. CONSTRUCTION/MANUFACTURING

CODE
011 Delamination
386 Insecure attachment (label or trim)
401 Needle Cuts and Needle Holes
500 Any stitch runoff
502 Wrong Stitch Count SPI - Incorrect stitch density
503 Skipped stitch
505 Broken stitches
507 Misalignment - Misaligned seam junction (Accessories > 3 mm)
509 Fullness/Distortion - Twisting or Roping
520 Open Seam
521 Sewn-in Pleat
Substitution or Omission of Components:
• Missing/incorrect components
525 • Construction detail not as specified in BOM.
533 Improper repair - Any repaired stitch that affects appearance
Faulty Stitching:
• Incorrect stitch type.
• Margin stitch slip too narrow or too wide
534 • Double stitching
563 Operation missing or incomplete - Bar Tack missing or misplaced
559 Loose stitches
668 Poor Adhesion - Incorrect or poor bonding

3. CLEANLINESS

CODE
130 Broken Needles – Any Foreign Matter (needles, pins, staples)

220 Stickers left on garment – Any QC, auditor, count sticker, defect indicator sticker, or sticker of
any type other than those required by the specification, left behind and not removed before the
garment is placed in the case or package
319 Dust, Mold, Fungi, Oils, Soil, Stains - Dirt, Oil, Grease Spots
326 Marks – Pen or Pencil Marks or Other Marks on Fabric
558 Strings & Excess Chain Off - Long untrimmed threads on the outside
663 Excess adhesive – Screen Print Residue

972 Residue – Cleaning Residue or Sticker Residue
4. EMBELLISHMENTS

CODE
110 Pattern Incorrect - Incorrect Shape
137 Logo/Pattern – Logo Treatment
316 Defective Printing - Screening/Ink/Painting Defects
372 Color migration/bleeding
373 Emboss/Deboss Definition
391 Pilling
534 Faulty stitching - Too many or too few stitches
557 Inadequate elasticity or tension
558 Strings/Excess Chain Off - Untrimmed embroidery threads
567 Scorched fabric or burns
573 Wrong Location of Embellishment


4. EMBELLISHMENTS CONTINUED

CODE
602 Improper Cure (Cracking)
603 Incorrect color or finish
614 Missing print – Missing or Incomplete Embellishment
620 Skewed/Misaligned - Slanted/Tilted Embellishment
665 Pallet marks - Plate/hoop marks
667 Incorrect Size or Type of Embellishment
5.TRIMS

CODE
372 Color migration/bleeding – Trim Bleeding
374 Trim damaged
375 Trim inoperable New Create!
418 Broken Button, Snap, Hook & Eye, or Rivet
525 Substitution or Omission of trim or component - Mismatch to specification
620 Skewed/ Mis-aligned - Slanted Trim
831 Incorrect size or shape
832 Incorrect Color
967 Missing Trim

6. MEASUREMENTS

CODE
745 Headwear circumference out of Tolerance
746 Headwear crown depth out of Tolerance.
747 Headwear brim length out of Tolerance.
748 Headwear brim width out of Tolerance.
749 Headwear brim-curve height out of Tolerance.
760 Headwear bottom width out of Tolerance.
761 Headwear height out of Tolerance.
765 Glove finger length out of Tolerance.
766 Glove palm width out of Tolerance.
768 Glove fourchette width out of Tolerance.
7. FUNCTIONAL

CODE
769 Poor tack/grip (gloves only)
770 Impact strength (protective/equipment)
771 Missing test report (protective/equipment)
772 Stretch & Recovery (headband/sleeve)
773 Handle shoulder straps - jerk test (bag)
774 Strap hardware - d ring (Bag)
775 Snap attachment strength
776 Unmovable T-knuckle (lacrosse gloves)
55-Grament Dye


OPERATION: Garment Dye (700)
DEFECT
DEFECT DESCRIPTION
CODE
116 Dyed Wrong Color
300 Knit Hole
307 Any color spot in zone (Blotchy dye, blotchy yellow)
310 Hard dye line. No gradual movement.
319 Soil Spots (grease, dirt, rust, wax soil)
325 Bowed or Skewed Garment
372 Color Migration/Bleeding
391 Any pilling
Defective Label – Any label that has become illegible after the garment
422
dye process.

613 Creases – Heavy Wrinkling, see pictorial guide.
56-Grament Wash


OPERATION: Garment Wash (701)
DEFECT
DEFECT DESCRIPTION
CODE
300 Hole
319 Soil Spots (grease, dirt, rust, wax soil)
325 Bowed or Skewed Garment
372 Color Migration/Bleeding
391 Any pilling
401 Needle Cut
Defective Label – Any label that has become illegible after the garment
422
wash process.

509 Fullness, distorted
613 Creases – Heavy Wrinkling, see pictorial guide.
01-Hangtag

Doc ID: P-QUAL-13.1-01 0823/2017 Number 5.0 1 of 1
PACKAGING DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST
PRODUCT LINE: Packaging

OPERATION: Hangtag, Collar Tags (474)

CODE
611 Smears
614 Missing print
806 Incorrect style, size, price, color, and/or other data on hangtag
810 Bar code not readable
820 Missing hangtag
821 Incorrect placement of hangtag
823 Incorrect bullet (swift tack), or sticker
824 Additional hole created in hangtag
827 Incorrect UPC / EPC / OCR / Retailer specific part numbers (i.e. DPCI # or KSN #)
Activewear: UPC on joker label does not match UPC on hangtag
828 Missing UPC / EPC / OCR / Retailer specific part numbers (i.e. DPCI # or KSN #)
847 Swiftack - Incorrect placement or missing.
946 Improper hangtag.

02-Stickers


OPERATION: Stickers (475)

CODE
220 Sticker left on garment – Any QC, auditor, count sticker, defect indicator sticker, or sticker
of any type other than those required by the specification, left behind and not removed
before the garment is placed in the case or package.
365 Socks: Incorrect fiber content
367 Socks: Fiber content missing
611 Smears
614 Missing print
629 Sticker damaged, torn or melted
806 Incorrect style, size, color, price, and/or other data on sticker
810 Bar code not readable
820 Missing sticker
821 Incorrect placement of sticker
827 Incorrect UPC / EPC / OCR

Activewear: UPC on joker label does not match UPC on hangtag
828 Missing UPC / EPC / OCR
946 Improper sticker
972 Sticker residue
979 Incorrect SKU on sticker

03-Hangers


OPERATION: Hanger (476)

CODE
364 Size tab missing.
370 Broken, cracked size tab.
800 Bundling or grouping of sales units
820 Missing hanger
821 Incorrect placement.
829 Incorrect size tab or placement of size tab
842 Hanger damaged (broken, missing closure, melted, etc.)
843 Incorrect hanger
908 Rubber band(s) missing and/or broken
909 Garment placed on hanger incorrectly.

04-Banding

PACKAGING DEFECT CLASSIFICATION

OPERATION: Banding (477)

CODE
532 Band ends misaligned greater than ¼"
368 Socks: Incorrect fiber content restickered or incorrect fiber content not stickered
369 Socks: UPC not stickered over
611 Smears
614 Missing print
629 Stickers incorrect, illegible, defective or missing
764 Adhesive inadequate (not holding).
817 Too many garments
818 Too few garments
820 Improper or missing band
821 Incorrect placement of band
823 Incorrect swift tack size
824 Hole
835 Mixed colors

04-Banding


CODE
845 Socks: Incorrect Color
846 Socks: Incorrect Style
847 Incorrect swift tack placement
850 Socks: Incorrect Size
978 Incorrect Band.
980 Country of Origin missing
981 Incorrect Country of Origin

05-Bags


OPERATION: Bags (408)

CODE
368 Socks: Incorrect fiber content/restickered or incorrect fiber content not stickered
369 Socks: UPC not stickered over
521 Pleat in bag
575 Burn marks visible on the body of the garment
611 Smears
614 Missing print
621 Any hole in bag other than air vent.
624 Incorrect bag or improper bag size (+/- ¼" from standard)
626 More than ½" excess bag at seal (below bottom fold of garment)
627 Any open heat seal
628 Waste in bag
629 Stickers incorrect, illegible, defective, or missing
633 Garment burned with sealer
639 Heat seal on bag crooked
648 Damaged bag
649 Seal located more than ½" below graphics.

05-Bags


CODE
652 Garment(s) placed in bag incorrectly.
653 No bag(s)
654 Bag(s) not sealed properly (tape, sticker, etc.). See specification.
817 Too many garments.
818 Too few garments
826 Improperly bagged
833 Mixed style.
834 Mixed size.
835 Mixed color.
845 Socks: Incorrect color
846 Socks: Incorrect Style
850 Socks: Incorrect Size
More than ¼" garment visible below bottom ink line of package silhouette when package
926
held upright
927 Garments folded at an angle at top of package
933 Incorrect color mix.
934 Color combination staggered incorrectly
935 Garments staggered unequally (more of any one garment exposed in folded package)
936 Waistband folded forward or to back in front of package

05-Bags


CODE
939 All vacuum pack defects
972 Vacuum bag residue.
980 Country of origin missing
981 Incorrect country of origin

06-Folding

OPERATION: Folding (406)

CODE
377 Attributions incorrect or mixed

650 Underwear, socks: Garment placed incorrectly
804 Damaged Case.
807 Wrong/Incorrect size case.
808 Improperly folded:
A) Printers fold - garments stacked with uneven hems/sides/sleeves/collars and shoulders
when laying flat
B) Printers fold - sleeves wrinkled/not laying flat.
C) Printers fold - tops folded uneven with bottoms when folded in half
D) Retail fold - Incorrect method (see specifications)
814 Brown paper missing (if required).

Socks: Too many packages
818 Too few garments.
Socks: Too few packages
833 Mixed style.
Socks: Incorrect or mixed packages
834 Mixed size.
835 Mixed color.
837 Top of bundles wrinkled.
838 Bundles "caved in" center (not flat).

839 Bundles bunched to one side of case.
840 Bundles not alternated to specification.

Socks: Incorrect sock order
06-Folding


CODE
841 Rounded/Bulging cases

844 Pallets-incorrect size
845 Pallets-incorrect color
846 Pallets--incorrect style
849 Garment fold dimensions out of tolerance (length & width) ¾"
Underwear: Fold dimensions out of tolerance. See specifications for targets.
901 Underwear: Label concealed in folded garment
902 Underwear: Sew elastic seam exposed
903 Underwear: Collar folded off center of package.

Brief: Front panel of top of garment folded off center.
904 Underwear: Incorrect fold of garment creating bulk or thickness in package
905 Underwear: Top of front fold more than ¾" below back fold of package.
906 Underwear: Any fabric or construction defect visible in package area.
921 Creases folded into the garment that distract from the overall appearance.
924 Underwear: Middle or bottom garment folded higher than top garment more than ½"
928 Underwear: Binding turned out in the leg
929 Underwear: Fly opening turned back into folded garment
930 Underwear: Waistbands on sides of garment folded to back side of fold, extends over ¾"
above front fold of garments at top
932 Underwear: Sides of folded garments folded forward or turned out.
936 Underwear: Waistband folded forward or to the back in front of package
937 Underwear: Crotch exposed at top of fold
972 Underwear: Residue(Tape)

07-Boxes Packaging Defects


OPERATION: Boxes (409)

CODE
377 Attributions incorrect or mixed.
611 Smears
614 Missing print
629 Stamp information incorrect, illegible, defective, or missing
632 Incorrect color or color combination
804 Damaged
807 Wrong size box
809 Quantity incorrect – Case Label
810 Case label bar code not readable
818 Too few garments.
820 Case Label Missing – Main Barcode Label
821 Case label incorrectly placed
833 Mixed style.
834 Mixed size.
835 Mixed color.
836 Box misprinted, illegible graphics, altered
841 Rounded/Bulging Boxes
931 Customer Case ID sticker missing/incorrect

07-Boxes Packaging Defects


CODE
982 Shipping Label Incorrect
983 Shipping Label Missing

08-Board


OPERATION: Board (407)

CODE
907 Board placement incorrect (board exposed at top of garments)
915 Insert Board or J-Board missing, incorrect type, or board size incorrect in garment
(+ 0/-1/8").
976 Defective board.

01-Casing Label Defects

CASING DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST
PRODUCT LINE: Casing

OPERATION: Case Label (414)
DEFECT
DEFECT DESCRIPTION
CODE
377 Attribution Code Incorrect – Case label
830 Style Incorrect – Case Label
831 Size Incorrect - Case Label
832 Color Incorrect - Case Label
844 Putup Incorrect – Case Label

02-Garment Operation & Defect Code
Summary

Operation Codes Defect Codes

Code Operation Code Defect
001 Yarn 010 Molding Defects
002 Material Handler 011 Delamination
003 Attach Backs 110 Pattern Incorrect
004 Attach Centers 117 Rough Fabric
005 Attach Hook And Eyes 122 Toe Seam Hole
006 Molding 123 Missing Toe Seam Thread
007 Boarding 124 Seamed Past Gore
008 Join Top/Bottom Cups 127 Gore Holes
009 Topstitching Cup 128 Yarn Out
010 Make Center Front 130 Broken Needle
011 Join Side Bk To Bk Panel 137 Logo/Pattern Wring
012 Join Inner To Outer Cup 140 Misplait (Yarn)
050 Knitting 143 Missed/Showing Window
060 Make Accessories 144 Wavy Toe Seam
100 Finishing 208 Pattern Marks/Bra Sew Soil
120 Dyeing 209 Excess Yarn
130 Bleaching 210 Unraveling
152 Cutting 211 Broken Band
197 Slitting 212 Wavy Band
200 Bind Armhole 213 Kisses
201 Seam Side 214 Boarding Lines
202 Seam Shoulders 215 Missing Hook/Eye
203 Seam First Shoulder 216 Excess Fabric
204 Bind Neck 217 Collapsed Cups
205 Run On Collar 219 Moiré
207 Stitch Display 220 Sticker Left On Garment
208 Seam Second Shoulder 300 Hole
209 Set In Collar 301 Yarn Streaks
210 Pinch 'V' 302 Yarn Barre
214 Hem Bottom 303 Birdeyes
216 Edge Bottom 304 Rundown
218 Set Sleeves 305 Picks
219 Close Cuffs 306 Off Shade Component
220 Seam Dart Body 307 Color Spot
221 Bartack Strap 308 Slub Or Lint
222 Seam V Point 309 Sock Knot
224 Close Colret 310 Obvious Dye Streaks
Summary

225 Close Band 311 Contaminated Yarn

226 Hem Leg 2 Needle 312 Hvy/Lt Yarn Or Barre
227 Hem Waist 2 Needle 314 Inferior Cloth
228 Topstitch Decoration 315 Wireplay/Defective Wire
229 Set Raglan Sleeve 316 Defective Printing
230 Attach Waistband 318 Fabric Run
231 Coverseam Collar & Waistband 319 Soil Spots
233 Coverseam Cuff 321 Any Mend
234 Serge/Edge Sleeve 324 Sinker/Needle Line
235 Tack Rolled Edges 325 Bowed Or Skewed Fabric
236 Tape Neck & Shoulder 326 Lot Lettering/Marks
237 Tack Vents 327 Mill Seam/Splice
238 Bind Armhole 328 Crack/Rope Marks
239 Bind Bottom 329 Harsh Hand
242 Coverseam Armhole 334 Blotchy/Yellowing
243 Close Sleeve & Sideseam 335 Blotchy/Dye Spots/Uneven Dying
244 Coverseam Shoulder 339 Shade Variation
245 Seam “U” or “V” Insert 341 White Lines
246 Rib Trim Hood 342 Body/Trim Shading
247 Rib Trim Side Panel 343 Body/Sleeve Shading
248 Serge/Edge Placket 344 Off Center Cutting
249 Serge/Edge Neck 345 Thin Yarn
250 Topstitch Collar 346 Thick Yarn
252 Attach Lace 347 Immature Cotton
253 Topstitch Armhole 350 Compactor Creases
254 Topstitch Pocket 353 Wrong/Mixed Fabric
256 Hem Neck 360 Torqueing
257 Hem Armhole 361 Wrong Color Thread
259 Sew Logo Tag 362 Keyhole Greater than 1/8”
260 Topstitch Pocket Flap 366 Diagonally Cut
261 Topstitch Elastic 372 Color Migration/Bleeding
262 Attach Pocket Flap 373 Emboss/Deboss Definition
263 Coverseam Hood 374 Trim Damaged
264 Coverseam Bottom 375 Trim Inoperable
265 Coverseam Sleeve 386 Incorrect Heat Seal
266 Coverseam Pocket 387 Scorched Or Burned
267 Topstitch Dart 389 No Nap / Bad Nap
268 Tack Label 390 Crushed/Wrinkled Cups
269 Tack Liner 391 Pilling
270 Topstitch Waistband 392 Ends Down
271 Top Stitching Other 401 Needle Cut
Summary

300 Bind Panel 417 Flips/Flipping

303 Seam/Attach Patch 418 Broken Button/Grip/Snap/Hook/Rivet
304 Seam Panel 420 Meas Exceeds Toll
306 Bind Legs 422 Defective Label
313 Hem Legs 436 Light Fabric
315 Set Side Panel 437 Heavy Fabric
316 Seam Crotch 473 Inks Mixed In Screen
317 Tack Shoulder 500 Stitch Runoff
319 Leg Elastic 502 Wrong Stitch Count
320 Serge Leg Opening 503 Skipped Stitch
321 Bind Waist 504 Cut Hole/Feed Cut
324 Bind Armhole - Serge 505 Broken Stitches
326 Tack Gore 506 Unstitched
327 Seam Crotch Overedge 507 Misalignment
328 Attach Cuff 508 Reversed/Inverted Parts
332 Sew Pocket 509 Fullness/Distortion
333 Hem Pocket 510 Distorted Armhole
334 Tack Wire Channel 512 Pocket Tilt
336 Sew Waist Elastic 513 Excessive Trim Off
337 Set Elastic To Neck 514 Dropped Shoulder
341 Coverseam Straps 516 Waste Sewn In
342 Coverseam Band Elastic (Bras) 520 Open Seam
343 Attach Wire Channel 521 Pleat
344 Attach Cup 522 Sewing Oil
345 Overedge / Serge Fly 525 Sub Or Omit Of Comp
346 Make Fly 528 Puckered
348 Coverseam Side Frame Bras 529 Rough/Frayed Seams
349 Attach Strap 530 Pellon Exposed
351 Attach Gore 533 Improper Repair
353 Attach Hooks 534 Faulty Stitching
354 Attach Eye 537 Width Variation
355 Attach Piping 538 Crooked Seam
356 Tapered Collar 540 Binding Filled Inade
399 General Sewing 542 Raw Edge
456 Make Elastic Band Au 547 Length Variation
460 Heat Seal Label 549 Stitch Overlap
462 Hem Sleeve 551 Gathers Unequal
463 Close Sleeve 553 Defective Elastic
464 Attach Layer Sleeve 554 Defective Band
467 Bind Sleeve 557 Elasticity Inadequate
470 Fuse Logo Patch 558 Strings/Excess Chain Off
Summary

471 Hem Bottom 2 Needle 559 Loose Stitches

472 Heat Transfer Print 562 Latch Tack
473 Printing 563 Operation Incomplete
478 Pad Printing 564 No Back Tack
503 Close Cuff 566 Excessive/Incorrect Pellon
521 Tack Sideseam 567 Burned Or Scorched Fabric
551 Sew Rectangle 570 Exposed Rubber
555 Make Pocket Bag 573 Wrong Location
556 Bartack Pockets 574 Zipper Positioned Incorrectly
558 Bartack Waistband 576 Defective Zip/Snap/Button
562 Attach Cuff Bottom 577 Symmetry/Uneven
600 Make Pocket Flap 579 Armhole Symmetry
601 Hem Hood 581 Leg Torque
602 Make Hood 582 Button Not Secure
603 Attach Eyelets 583 Leg Length Symmetry
604 Thread Drwsrg Thru H 588 Rough/Frayed String
605 Attach Hood To Body 597 Length Symmetry
606 Hem Legs 598 Width Symmetry
608 Make Buttonholes 602 Improper Curing
610 Attach Elastic & Label 603 Wrong Print
611 Make Waistband 604 Registration
612 Thread Drawstring 605 Pinholes
614 Top Stitch Pocket Opening 607 Heavy Prints
616 Close Crotch 610 Fabric In Coverseam
617 Close Fly 611 Smeared Print
618 Inseam 612 Lint Holes
619 Tape Reinforcement 613 Creases
622 Fell Panel 614 Missing Print
624 Finished Measurement 615 Incorrect Thread Sequence
627 Attach Layer Neck 616 Poor Penetration
628 Set Placket 617 Shade
630 Button Hole 618 Streaks
631 Sew Button 619 Embroidery Placement
632 Tack Collar 620 Skewed/Misaligned
635 Close Rise 623 Stripe Skewed > 1/2"
636 Set Collar 624 Incorrect Bag
637 Close Collar W/Label 632 Incorrect Color Mix
639 Tack Sleeves 635 Stitches Crossing Sm
641 Embroidery 651 Garments Uneven
642 Topstitch Shoulders 655 Double Embroidery
643 Topstitch Top Placket 656 Bobbin Thread
Summary

644 Topstitch Bottom Placket 657 Mottling Of Inks

645 Edge Vent 658 Excessive Fabric Stretch
646 Stitch Vent 659 Pressed Embroidery
647 Attach Zipper 660 Thinning
648 Topstitch Zipper 661 Soil Printing/Emb.
649 Close & Box Placket 662 Loose Embroidery
650 Seam Spliced Body 663 Excessive Adhesive
651 Seam Spliced Sleeve 664 Excessive Glitter
652 Attach Cuff Pants 665 Pallet Marks
653 Coverseam Spliced Parts 666 Incorrect Inks
655 Close Stirrup 667 Incorrect Logo Size
656 Locker Patch 668 Poor Adhesion
657 Close Back W/Label 699 Shoulder/Strap Width
658 Attach Bow 700 Collar Measurement out Of Tolerance
659 Hem Sleeve Double Needle 701 Length Measure Out Of Tolerance
661 Close Side Seam/Labe 702 Waist Measurement Out Of Tolerance
667 Attach Grippers 703 Leg Measurement
668 Tack Bow 704 Trunk Measurement Out Of Tolerance
674 Bind Blanket 707 Width Measurement Out Of Tolerance
680 Topstitch Sleeve 708 Sleeve Length Meas Out Of Tolerance
681 Twill Tape Display 709 Inseam Measure Out Of Tolerance
683 Coverseam Sideseam 710 Rise Measurement Out Of Tolerance
684 Coverseam Rise (Ft & Bk) 711 Thigh Measurement Out Of Tolerance
685 Tack Tape 712 Pocket Measurement
686 Tack Binding 713 Fly Measurement Out Of Tolerance
687 Tack Cup 715 Armhole Measure Out Of Tolerance
688 Tack Strap 716 Colret Width Meas. Out of Tol.
689 Attach Gusset 717 Other Measurement
690 Attach Inner Lining 719 Seat width Measure Out Of Tolerance
691 Topstitch Rise 720 Sweep Measure Out Of Tolerance
692 Topstitch Sideseam 721 Damaged
727 Across Shoulder Measure Out Of Tol.
728 Sleeve/Cuff/Leg Opening Out Of Tol.
729 Neck Stretch
745 Headwear circumference out of Tol.
746 Headwear crown depth out of Tol.
747 Headwear brim length out of Tol.
748 Headwear brim width out of Tol
749 Brim-curve height out of Tol.
753 Improper Fold of Rib
757 Faulty Cutting
Summary

760 Headwear bottom width out of Tol.

764 Adhesive Inadequate
768 Glove fourchette width out of Tol.
770 Impact strength
771 Missing test report
804 Damaged Case
809 Quantity Incorrect
832 Incorrect Color
841 Bulging Case
921 Creases Fold In
933 Incorrect Color Mix in Bag
944 Waistband logo off Center
945 Stitching not Centered
949 Tension
967 Missing
972 Residue
Summary (Alphabetical Order)

Operation Codes Defect Codes

Code Operation Code Defect
3 Attach Backs 727 Across Shoulder Measure Out Of Tol.
658 Attach Bow 764 Adhesive Inadequate
4 Attach Centers 764 Adhesive Inadequate
328 Attach Cuff 321 Any Mend
562 Attach Cuff Bottom 715 Armhole Measure Out Of Tolerance
652 Attach Cuff Pants 579 Armhole Symmetry
344 Attach Cup 540 Binding Filled Inade
610 Attach Elastic & Label 303 Birdeyes
354 Attach Eye 335 Blotchy/Dye Spots/Uneven Dying
603 Attach Eyelets 334 Blotchy/Yellowing
351 Attach Gore 214 Boarding Lines
667 Attach Grippers 656 Bobbin Thread
689 Attach Gusset 343 Body/Sleeve Shading
605 Attach Hood To Body 342 Body/Trim Shading
5 Attach Hook And Eyes 325 Bowed Or Skewed Fabric
353 Attach Hooks 749 Brim-curve height out of Tol.
690 Attach Inner Lining 211 Broken Band
252 Attach Lace 418 Broken Button/Grip/Snap/Hook/Rivet
627 Attach Layer Neck 130 Broken Needle
464 Attach Layer Sleeve 505 Broken Stitches
355 Attach Piping 841 Bulging Case
262 Attach Pocket Flap 567 Burned Or Scorched Fabric
349 Attach Strap 582 Button Not Secure
230 Attach Waistband 217 Collapsed Cups
343 Attach Wire Channel 700 Collar Measurement out Of Tolerance
647 Attach Zipper 372 Color Migration/Bleeding
556 Bartack Pockets 307 Color Spot
221 Bartack Strap 716 Colret Width Meas. Out of Tol.
558 Bartack Waistband 350 Compactor Creases
200 Bind Armhole 311 Contaminated Yarn
324 Bind Armhole - Serge 613 Creases

674 Bind Blanket 921 Creases Fold In

239 Bind Bottom 538 Crooked Seam
306 Bind Legs 390 Crushed/Wrinkled Cups
204 Bind Neck 504 Cut Hole/Feed Cut
300 Bind Panel 721 Damaged
467 Bind Sleeve 804 Damaged Case
321 Bind Waist 554 Defective Band
130 Bleaching 553 Defective Elastic
7 Boarding 422 Defective Label
630 Button Hole 316 Defective Printing
649 Close & Box Placket 576 Defective Zip/Snap/Button
657 Close Back W/Label 11 Delamination
225 Close Band 366 Diagonally Cut
637 Close Collar W/Label 510 Distorted Armhole
224 Close Colret 655 Double Embroidery
616 Close Crotch 514 Dropped Shoulder
503 Close Cuff 557 Elasticity Inadequate
219 Close Cuffs 373 Emboss/Deboss Definition
617 Close Fly 619 Embroidery Placement
635 Close Rise 392 Ends Down
661 Close Side Seam/Labe 216 Excess Fabric
463 Close Sleeve 209 Excess Yarn
243 Close Sleeve & Sideseam 663 Excessive Adhesive
655 Close Stirrup 658 Excessive Fabric Stretch
242 Coverseam Armhole 664 Excessive Glitter
342 Coverseam Band Elastic (Bras) 513 Excessive Trim Off
264 Coverseam Bottom 566 Excessive/Incorrect Pellon
231 Coverseam Collar & Waistband 570 Exposed Rubber
233 Coverseam Cuff 610 Fabric In Coverseam
263 Coverseam Hood 318 Fabric Run
266 Coverseam Pocket 757 Faulty Cutting
684 Coverseam Rise (Ft & Bk) 534 Faulty Stitching
244 Coverseam Shoulder 417 Flips/Flipping
348 Coverseam Side Frame Bras 713 Fly Measurement Out Of Tolerance
683 Coverseam Sideseam 509 Fullness/Distortion
265 Coverseam Sleeve 651 Garments Uneven

653 Coverseam Spliced Parts 551 Gathers Unequal

341 Coverseam Straps 765 Glove finger length out of Tolerance.
152 Cutting 768 Glove fourchette width out of Tol.
120 Dyeing 766 Glove palm width out of Tolerance.
216 Edge Bottom 127 Gore Holes
645 Edge Vent 773 Handle shoulder straps - jerk test (bag)
641 Embroidery 329 Harsh Hand
622 Fell Panel 760 Headwear bottom width out of Tol.
624 Finished Measurement 747 Headwear brim length out of Tol.
100 Finishing 748 Headwear brim width out of Tol
470 Fuse Logo Patch 745 Headwear circumference out of Tol.
399 General Sewing 746 Headwear crown depth out of Tol.
460 Heat Seal Label 761 Headwear height out of Tolerance.
472 Heat Transfer Print 437 Heavy Fabric
257 Hem Armhole 607 Heavy Prints
214 Hem Bottom 300 Hole
471 Hem Bottom 2 Needle 312 Hvy/Lt Yarn Or Barre
601 Hem Hood 347 Immature Cotton
226 Hem Leg 2 Needle 770 Impact strength
313 Hem Legs 602 Improper Curing
606 Hem Legs 753 Improper Fold of Rib
256 Hem Neck 533 Improper Repair
333 Hem Pocket 624 Incorrect Bag
462 Hem Sleeve 832 Incorrect Color
659 Hem Sleeve Double Needle 632 Incorrect Color Mix
227 Hem Waist 2 Needle 933 Incorrect Color Mix in Bag
618 Inseam 386 Incorrect Heat Seal
12 Join Inner To Outer Cup 666 Incorrect Inks
11 Join Side Bk To Bk Panel 667 Incorrect Logo Size
8 Join Top/Bottom Cups 831 Incorrect or Wrong Size
50 Knitting 615 Incorrect Thread Sequence
319 Leg Elastic 314 Inferior Cloth
656 Locker Patch 473 Inks Mixed In Screen
60 Make Accessories 709 Inseam Measure Out Of Tolerance
608 Make Buttonholes 362 Keyhole Greater than 1/8”
10 Make Center Front 213 Kisses

456 Make Elastic Band Au 708 Largo De Manga

346 Make Fly 562 Latch Tack
602 Make Hood 583 Leg Length Symmetry
555 Make Pocket Bag 703 Leg Measurement
600 Make Pocket Flap 581 Leg Torque
611 Make Waistband 701 Length Measure Out Of Tolerance
2 Material Handler 597 Length Symmetry
6 Molding 547 Length Variation
345 Overedge / Serge Fly 436 Light Fabric
478 Pad Printing 612 Lint Holes
210 Pinch 'V' 137 Logo/Pattern Wring
473 Printing 662 Loose Embroidery
246 Rib Trim Hood 559 Loose Stitches
247 Rib Trim Side Panel 326 Lot Lettering/Marks
205 Run On Collar 420 Meas Exceeds Toll
245 Seam “U” or “V” Insert 327 Mill Seam/Splice
316 Seam Crotch 507 Misalignment
327 Seam Crotch Overedge 140 Misplait (Yarn)
220 Seam Dart Body 143 Missed/Showing Window
203 Seam First Shoulder 967 Missing
304 Seam Panel 215 Missing Hook/Eye
208 Seam Second Shoulder 614 Missing Print
202 Seam Shoulders 771 Missing test report
201 Seam Side 123 Missing Toe Seam Thread
650 Seam Spliced Body 219 Moiré
651 Seam Spliced Sleeve 10 Molding Defects
222 Seam V Point 657 Mottling Of Inks
303 Seam/Attach Patch 729 Neck Stretch
320 Serge Leg Opening 401 Needle Cut
249 Serge/Edge Neck 564 No Back Tack
248 Serge/Edge Placket 389 No Nap / Bad Nap
234 Serge/Edge Sleeve 310 Obvious Dye Streaks
636 Set Collar 344 Off Center Cutting
337 Set Elastic To Neck 306 Off Shade Component
209 Set In Collar 520 Open Seam
628 Set Placket 563 Operation Incomplete

229 Set Raglan Sleeve 717 Other Measurement

315 Set Side Panel 665 Pallet Marks
218 Set Sleeves 110 Pattern Incorrect
631 Sew Button 208 Pattern Marks/Bra Sew Soil
259 Sew Logo Tag 530 Pellon Exposed
332 Sew Pocket 305 Picks
551 Sew Rectangle 391 Pilling
336 Sew Waist Elastic 605 Pinholes
197 Slitting 521 Pleat
207 Stitch Display 712 Pocket Measurement
646 Stitch Vent 512 Pocket Tilt
686 Tack Binding 668 Poor Adhesion
668 Tack Bow 616 Poor Penetration
632 Tack Collar 769 Poor tack/grip (gloves only)
687 Tack Cup 659 Pressed Embroidery
326 Tack Gore 528 Puckered
268 Tack Label 809 Quantity Incorrect
269 Tack Liner 542 Raw Edge
235 Tack Rolled Edges 604 Registration
317 Tack Shoulder 972 Residue
521 Tack Sideseam 508 Reversed/Inverted Parts
639 Tack Sleeves 710 Rise Measurement Out Of Tolerance
688 Tack Strap 117 Rough Fabric
685 Tack Tape 529 Rough/Frayed Seams
237 Tack Vents 588 Rough/Frayed String
334 Tack Wire Channel 304 Rundown
236 Tape Neck & Shoulder 387 Scorched Or Burned
619 Tape Reinforcement 124 Seamed Past Gore
356 Tapered Collar 719 Seat width Measure Out Of Tolerance
612 Thread Drawstring 522 Sewing Oil
604 Thread Drwsrg Thru H 617 Shade
614 Top Stitch Pocket Opening 339 Shade Variation
271 Top Stitching Other 699 Shoulder/Strap Width
253 Topstitch Armhole 324 Sinker/Needle Line
644 Topstitch Bottom Placket 620 Skewed/Misaligned
250 Topstitch Collar 503 Skipped Stitch

267 Topstitch Dart 708 Sleeve Length Meas Out Of Tolerance

228 Topstitch Decoration 728 Sleeve/Cuff/Leg Opening Out Of Tol.
261 Topstitch Elastic 308 Slub Or Lint
254 Topstitch Pocket 611 Smeared Print
260 Topstitch Pocket Flap 775 Snap attachment strength
691 Topstitch Rise 309 Sock Knot
642 Topstitch Shoulders 956 Softener Residue
692 Topstitch Sideseam 661 Soil Printing/Emb.
680 Topstitch Sleeve 319 Soil Spots
643 Topstitch Top Placket 220 Sticker Left On Garment
270 Topstitch Waistband 549 Stitch Overlap
648 Topstitch Zipper 500 Stitch Runoff
9 Topstitching Cup 635 Stitches Crossing Sm
681 Twill Tape Display 945 Stitching not Centered
1 Yarn 774 Strap hardware - d ring (Bag)
618 Streaks
558 Strings/Excess Chain Off
623 Stripe Skewed > 1/2"
525 Sub Or Omit Of Comp
720 Sweep Measure Out Of Tolerance
577 Symmetry/Uneven
949 Tension
346 Thick Yarn
711 Thigh Measurement Out Of Tolerance
345 Thin Yarn
660 Thinning
122 Toe Seam Hole
360 Torqueing
374 Trim Damaged
375 Trim Inoperable
704 Trunk Measurement Out Of Tolerance
210 Unraveling
506 Unstitched
702 Waist Measurement Out Of Tolerance


516 Waste Sewn In
212 Wavy Band
144 Wavy Toe Seam
341 White Lines
707 Width Measurement Out Of Tolerance
598 Width Symmetry
537 Width Variation
315 Wireplay/Defective Wire
361 Wrong Color Thread
573 Wrong Location
603 Wrong Print
502 Wrong Stitch Count
353 Wrong/Mixed Fabric
302 Yarn Barre
128 Yarn Out
301 Yarn Streaks
574 Zipper Positioned Incorrectly
Summary

225 Close Band 311 Contaminated Yarn

226 Hem Leg 2 Needle 312 Hvy/Lt Yarn Or Barre
227 Hem Waist 2 Needle 314 Inferior Cloth
228 Topstitch Decoration 315 Wireplay/Defective Wire
229 Set Raglan Sleeve 316 Defective Printing
230 Attach Waistband 318 Fabric Run
231 Coverseam Collar & Waistband 319 Soil Spots
233 Coverseam Cuff 321 Any Mend
234 Serge/Edge Sleeve 324 Sinker/Needle Line
235 Tack Rolled Edges 325 Bowed Or Skewed Fabric
236 Tape Neck & Shoulder 326 Lot Lettering/Marks
237 Tack Vents 327 Mill Seam/Splice
239 Bind Bottom 329 Harsh Hand
242 Coverseam Armhole 334 Blotchy/Yellowing
243 Close Sleeve & Sideseam 335 Blotchy/Dye Spots/Uneven Dying
244 Coverseam Shoulder 339 Shade Variation
245 Seam “U” or “V” Insert 341 White Lines
246 Rib Trim Hood 342 Body/Trim Shading
247 Rib Trim Side Panel 343 Body/Sleeve Shading
248 Serge/Edge Placket 344 Off Center Cutting
249 Serge/Edge Neck 345 Thin Yarn
250 Topstitch Collar 346 Thick Yarn
252 Attach Lace 347 Immature Cotton
253 Topstitch Armhole 350 Compactor Creases
254 Topstitch Pocket 353 Wrong/Mixed Fabric
256 Hem Neck 360 Torqueing
257 Hem Armhole 361 Wrong Color Thread
259 Sew Logo Tag 362 Keyhole Greater than 1/8”
260 Topstitch Pocket Flap 366 Diagonally Cut
261 Topstitch Elastic 372 Color Migration/Bleeding
262 Attach Pocket Flap 373 Emboss/Deboss Definition
263 Coverseam Hood 374 Trim Damaged
264 Coverseam Bottom 375 Trim Inoperable
265 Coverseam Sleeve 386 Incorrect Heat Seal
266 Coverseam Pocket 387 Scorched Or Burned
267 Topstitch Dart 389 No Nap / Bad Nap
268 Tack Label 390 Crushed/Wrinkled Cups
269 Tack Liner 391 Pilling
270 Topstitch Waistband 392 Ends Down
271 Top Stitching Other 401 Needle Cut
Summary

300 Bind Panel 417 Flips/Flipping

303 Seam/Attach Patch 418 Broken Button/Grip/Snap/Hook/Rivet
304 Seam Panel 420 Meas Exceeds Toll
306 Bind Legs 422 Defective Label
313 Hem Legs 436 Light Fabric
315 Set Side Panel 437 Heavy Fabric
316 Seam Crotch 473 Inks Mixed In Screen
317 Tack Shoulder 500 Stitch Runoff
319 Leg Elastic 502 Wrong Stitch Count
320 Serge Leg Opening 503 Skipped Stitch
321 Bind Waist 504 Cut Hole/Feed Cut
324 Bind Armhole - Serge 505 Broken Stitches
326 Tack Gore 506 Unstitched
327 Seam Crotch Overedge 507 Misalignment
328 Attach Cuff 508 Reversed/Inverted Parts
332 Sew Pocket 509 Fullness/Distortion
333 Hem Pocket 510 Distorted Armhole
334 Tack Wire Channel 512 Pocket Tilt
336 Sew Waist Elastic 513 Excessive Trim Off
337 Set Elastic To Neck 514 Dropped Shoulder
341 Coverseam Straps 516 Waste Sewn In
342 Coverseam Band Elastic (Bras) 520 Open Seam
343 Attach Wire Channel 521 Pleat
344 Attach Cup 522 Sewing Oil
345 Overedge / Serge Fly 525 Sub Or Omit Of Comp
346 Make Fly 528 Puckered
348 Coverseam Side Frame Bras 529 Rough/Frayed Seams
349 Attach Strap 530 Pellon Exposed
351 Attach Gore 533 Improper Repair
353 Attach Hooks 534 Faulty Stitching
354 Attach Eye 537 Width Variation
355 Attach Piping 538 Crooked Seam
356 Tapered Collar 540 Binding Filled Inade
399 General Sewing 542 Raw Edge
456 Make Elastic Band Au 547 Length Variation
460 Heat Seal Label 549 Stitch Overlap
462 Hem Sleeve 551 Gathers Unequal
463 Close Sleeve 553 Defective Elastic
464 Attach Layer Sleeve 554 Defective Band
467 Bind Sleeve 557 Elasticity Inadequate
470 Fuse Logo Patch 558 Strings/Excess Chain Off
Summary

471 Hem Bottom 2 Needle 559 Loose Stitches

472 Heat Transfer Print 562 Latch Tack
473 Printing 563 Operation Incomplete
478 Pad Printing 564 No Back Tack
503 Close Cuff 566 Excessive/Incorrect Pellon
521 Tack Sideseam 567 Burned Or Scorched Fabric
551 Sew Rectangle 570 Exposed Rubber
555 Make Pocket Bag 573 Wrong Location
556 Bartack Pockets 574 Zipper Positioned Incorrectly
558 Bartack Waistband 576 Defective Zip/Snap/Button
562 Attach Cuff Bottom 577 Symmetry/Uneven
600 Make Pocket Flap 579 Armhole Symmetry
601 Hem Hood 581 Leg Torque
602 Make Hood 582 Button Not Secure
603 Attach Eyelets 583 Leg Length Symmetry
604 Thread Drwsrg Thru H 588 Rough/Frayed String
605 Attach Hood To Body 597 Length Symmetry
606 Hem Legs 598 Width Symmetry
608 Make Buttonholes 602 Improper Curing
610 Attach Elastic & Label 603 Wrong Print
611 Make Waistband 604 Registration
612 Thread Drawstring 605 Pinholes
614 Top Stitch Pocket Opening 607 Heavy Prints
616 Close Crotch 610 Fabric In Coverseam
617 Close Fly 611 Smeared Print
618 Inseam 612 Lint Holes
619 Tape Reinforcement 613 Creases
622 Fell Panel 614 Missing Print
624 Finished Measurement 615 Incorrect Thread Sequence
627 Attach Layer Neck 616 Poor Penetration
628 Set Placket 617 Shade
630 Button Hole 618 Streaks
631 Sew Button 619 Embroidery Placement
632 Tack Collar 620 Skewed/Misaligned
635 Close Rise 623 Stripe Skewed > 1/2"
636 Set Collar 624 Incorrect Bag
637 Close Collar W/Label 632 Incorrect Color Mix
639 Tack Sleeves 635 Stitches Crossing Sm
641 Embroidery 651 Garments Uneven
642 Topstitch Shoulders 655 Double Embroidery
643 Topstitch Top Placket 656 Bobbin Thread
Summary

644 Topstitch Bottom Placket 657 Mottling Of Inks

645 Edge Vent 658 Excessive Fabric Stretch
646 Stitch Vent 659 Pressed Embroidery
647 Attach Zipper 660 Thinning
648 Topstitch Zipper 661 Soil Printing/Emb.
649 Close & Box Placket 662 Loose Embroidery
650 Seam Spliced Body 663 Excessive Adhesive
651 Seam Spliced Sleeve 664 Excessive Glitter
652 Attach Cuff Pants 665 Pallet Marks
653 Coverseam Spliced Parts 666 Incorrect Inks
655 Close Stirrup 667 Incorrect Logo Size
656 Locker Patch 668 Poor Adhesion
657 Close Back W/Label 699 Shoulder/Strap Width
658 Attach Bow 700 Collar Measurement out Of Tolerance
659 Hem Sleeve Double Needle 701 Length Measure Out Of Tolerance
661 Close Side Seam/Labe 702 Waist Measurement Out Of Tolerance
667 Attach Grippers 703 Leg Measurement
668 Tack Bow 704 Trunk Measurement Out Of Tolerance
674 Bind Blanket 707 Width Measurement Out Of Tolerance
680 Topstitch Sleeve 708 Largo De Manga
681 Twill Tape Display 708 Sleeve Length Meas Out Of Tolerance
683 Coverseam Sideseam 709 Inseam Measure Out Of Tolerance
684 Coverseam Rise (Ft & Bk) 710 Rise Measurement Out Of Tolerance
685 Tack Tape 711 Thigh Measurement Out Of Tolerance
686 Tack Binding 712 Pocket Measurement
687 Tack Cup 713 Fly Measurement Out Of Tolerance
688 Tack Strap 715 Armhole Measure Out Of Tolerance
689 Attach Gusset 716 Colret Width Meas. Out of Tol.
690 Attach Inner Lining 717 Other Measurement
691 Topstitch Rise 719 Seat width Measure Out Of Tolerance
692 Topstitch Sideseam 720 Sweep Measure Out Of Tolerance
721 Damaged
727 Across Shoulder Measure Out Of Tol.
728 Sleeve/Cuff/Leg Opening Out Of Tol.
729 Neck Stretch
745 Headwear circumference out of Tol.
746 Headwear crown depth out of Tol.
747 Headwear brim length out of Tol.
748 Headwear brim width out of Tol
749 Brim-curve height out of Tol.
753 Improper Fold of Rib
Summary

757 Faulty Cutting

760 Headwear bottom width out of Tol.
768 Glove fourchette width out of Tol.
770 Impact strength
771 Missing test report
804 Damaged Case
809 Quantity Incorrect
832 Incorrect Color
841 Bulging Case
921 Creases Fold In
933 Incorrect Color Mix in Bag
945 Stitching not Centered
949 Tension
967 Missing
972 Residue
01-Casing & Packaging Defect Code Summary

Casing- Operation Code 414

Code Description Code Description
830 Style Incorrect - Case Label 832 Color Incorrect - Case Label
831 Size Incorrect - Case Label 844 Put-up Incorrect - Case Label*
Packaging Operation Codes

Code Operation Code Operation
406 Folding 474 Hangtag
407 J-board/Board 475 Stickers
408 Packaging 476 Hanger
409 Boxes 477 Banding
Packaging Defect Codes
Code Description Code Description
364 Size Tab Missing 835 Mixed Color
365 Incorrect Fiber Content 836 Box Misprinted, Illegible Graphics, Altered
367 Fiber Content Missing 837 Top of Bundles Wrinkled
368 Fiber Content Restickered Incorrectly 838 Bundles Caved In Center - Not Flat
369 Incorrect Restickering 839 Bundles Bunched to One Side of Case
370 Broken, Cracked Size Tab 840 Bundles not Alternated to Spec
504 Cut Hole Caused By Hanger 841 Rounded/Bulging Case
521 Pleat in Bag 842 Damaged, Torn, or Melted
532 Band Ends Misaligned 843 Hanger incorrect
575 Burn Marks Visible on the Body of Garment
611 Smears 845 Incorrect Color - Socks, Pallets, Etc.
614 Print Defective/Missing 846 Incorrect Style Socks, Pallets, Etc.
621 Hole in bag other than vent 847 Incorrect Placement of Swiftack
624 Bag Incorrect 849 Garment Fold Dimensions Out of Tolerance
626 Excess bag at seal 850 Incorrect Size Socks
627 Seal - Open Poly bag 901 Label Concealed in Folded Garment
628 Waste in bag 902 Sew Elastic Seam Exposed
629 Stickers missing, incorrect, defective 903 Folded Off Center of Package
632 Incorrect Color or Color Combo 904 Incorrect Fold of Garment
633 Garment Burned with Sealer 905 Top of Front Fold below back Fold of Pack
639 Heat seal on Bag Crooked 906 Any Garment Defect Visible through the Pack
648 Damaged Bag 907 Board Placement Incorrect
649 Seal Located >1/2" Below Graphic 908 Rubber Bands Missing or Broken
650 Garments Placed Incorrectly 909 Garment Placed on hanger Incorrectly
652 Garments Placed in bag Incorrectly 915 Board / Insert or J Incorrect / Missing
653 No Bags 921 Creases in the Garment Visible
654 Bags Not Sealed Properly 924 Middle or Bottom Garment Folded Higher
764 Adhesive Inadequate (Not Holding) 926 Garment Too Visible Below Bottom Ink Line
800 Wrong Bundling or Grouping 927 Garments Folded at an Angle
01-Casing & Packaging Defect Code Summary

804 Damaged or broken 928 Binding Turned Out in the Leg

806 Incorrect Style/Size/Color 929 Fly Opening Turned Back
807 Wrong/Incorrect Size Case/Box 930 Waistbands Folded Wrong
Garment(s) folded/rolled in bag incorrectly
808 931 Customer Case ID Sticker Missing/Wrong
or Improper package string-tie or bailer bag
809 Quantity Incorrect - Case Label 932 Sides of Garments Folded Wrong
810 Case Label Bar Code Not Readable 933 Incorrect Color Mix
814 Brown Paper Missing 934 Color wrong, color combination, sequence
817 Too Many Garments/Packages 935 Garments Staggered Unequally
818 Too Few Garments/Packages 936 Waistband Folded in Wrong Direction
Incorrect/missing Band, Hanger, Tag,
820 937 Crotch Exposed at Top of Fold
Sticker
821 Placement incorrect 939 All Vacuum Pack Defects
823 Incorrect Bullet, Swift Tack, or Sticker 946 Improper Hangtag/Sticker
824 Additional Hole in Hangtag, Band, Etc. 972 Sticker or Tape Residue
826 Improperly Bagged 976 Defective J-Board
827 UPC Wrong 978 Incorrect Band
828 UPC Missing 979 Incorrect SKU on Sticker, Hangtag, Etc.
829 Incorrect Size Tab or Placement 980 Country of Origin Missing
833 Mixed Style 981 Incorrect Country of Origin
834 Mixed Size 982 Shipping Label Incorrect
983 Shipping label Missing

US-QUAL - P-QUAL-13-00 Master Defect

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US-QUAL - P-QUAL-13-00 Master Defect

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CORPORATE QUALITY SYSTEMS

Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Julie Brogden

Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Julie Brogden

GARMENT DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST

PRODUCT LINE: Tops & Bottoms

DEFECT DEFECT DESCRIPTION

301 Yarn streaks.

302 Heavy yarn barre.

305 Picked Yarn

311 Contaminated Yarn - foreign fibers, normally of a different color.

347 Immature cotton

553 Defective elastic.

Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Julie Brogden

GARMENT DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST

PRODUCT LINE: Tops & Bottoms

DEFECT DEFECT DESCRIPTION

300 Textile Holes (knit, lint, spreader, yarn, abrasion, sinker/needle)

Underwear only: Multiple birdeyes.—one or more birdeyes in Zone A. RL—One or more

304 Any rundown or drop stitch.

305 Picked yarn.

Any end downs.

529 Frayed collar

553 Defective elastic.

Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Julie Brogden

GARMENT DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST

PRODUCT LINE: Tops & Bottoms

DEFECT DEFECT DESCRIPTION

310 Heavy dye streak/migration in zone A.

319 Textile Soil (grease, dirt, rust, wax soil)

328 Heavy crack or rope marks in zones A.

341 Heavy white lines.

343 Body/Sleeve Shading.

391 Any pilling.

617 Socks: Shading

Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Julie Brogden

GARMENT DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST

PRODUCT LINE: Tops & Bottoms

DEFECT DEFECT DESCRIPTION

314 Inferior cloth or harsh hand

319 Textile Soil (grease, dirt, rust, wax soil)

325 Bowed or skewed fabric.

389 No nap, nap related (bad nap, cut nap)

391 Any pilling.

581 Torque on sides of garment

956 Softener Residue

Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Julie Brogden

GARMENT DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST

PRODUCT LINE: Tops & Bottoms

DEFECT DEFECT DESCRIPTION

513 Excess trim off.

Corporate Quality Procedures Approved by : Julie Brogden

GARMENT DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST

DEFECT DEFECT DESCRIPTION

361 Wrong color thread

401 Needle Cuts

Any skipped stitches - Any chain stitch.

504 Any cut hole or feed cut.

Any broken stitch - Any chain stitch.

508 Reversed or inverted component parts (i.e. lycra, spandex).

522 Oil spots.

525 Any substitution or omission of component parts.

529 Rough or frayed seams (due to dull knife).