Brazil

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Brazil
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Brazil
Managing Editor Aruna Ghose
Editorial Manager Ankita Awasthi
Design Manager Priyanka Thakur
Introducing
Project Editor Alka Thakur Brazil
Project Designer Mathew Kurien
Editors Arundhti Bhanot, Nandita
Jaishankar, Vandana Mohindra Discovering Brazil 10
Designers Rajnish Kashyap,
Baishakhee Sengupta Putting Brazil on the
Cartography Manager Uma Bhattacharya
Map 16
Senior Cartographer Suresh Kumar
Senior Picture Researcher Taiyaba
Khatoon
A Portrait of Brazil 20
Picture Researcher Sumita Khatwani
Senior DTP Designer Vinod Harish Brazil Through the Year 44
Contributors
Alex Bellos, Shawn Blore, Dilwyn Jenkins, The History of Brazil 50
Oliver Marshall, Christopher Pickard,
Alex Robinson, Neiva Augusta Silva
Consultant
Alex Robinson Brazil’s most famous landmark, Christ the
Photographers Redeemer, Rio de Janeiro
Demetrio Carrasco, Nigel Hicks, Alex
Robinson, Linda Whitwam
Illustrators
Surat Kumar Mantoo, Arun Pottirayil, Gautam
Trivedi, Mark Warner
Printed and bound in China
First published in the UK in 2007 by Dorling
Kindersley Limited, London WC2R 0RL
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Reprinted with revisions 2010, 2012,
2016, 2018
Copyright © 2007, 2018 Dorling
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All rights reserved. No part of this
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otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.
The beautiful coast at Tibaú do Sul, Rota do Sol
A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library.
ISBN 978-0-2413-0595-9
Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with American usage, ie the
The information in this
“first floor” is at ground level.
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
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Title page Rio de Janeiro’s spectacular coastline Front cover image Christ the Redeemer and Sugar Loaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro
Back cover image The stunning Iguaçu Falls on the Brazil side
Contents
Brazil Area Travelers’ Survival Guide
by Area Needs
Southeast Brazil 64 Where to Stay 366 Practical Information 408
Northeast Brazil 176 Where to Eat & Drink 382 Travel Information 418
Northern Brazil 260 Shopping in Brazil 398 General Index 428
Central West Brazil 294 Entertainment in
Acknowledgments 444
Brazil 400
Southern Brazil 328 Phrase Book 447
Specialized Holidays &
Outdoor Activities 402
Wooden mask from

Northeast Brazil Samba dancers in flamboyant costumes at a Carnaval parade in Rio de Janeiro
The Modernist Catedral Metropolitana Nossa

Senhora Aparecida, Brasília
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most and attractions. Information on
from your visit to Brazil, providing expert accommodation, restaurants, shopping,
recommendations and detailed practical entertainment, and activities can be found
information. Introducing Brazil maps in the Travelers’ Needs section, while the
the country and sets it in its historical and Survival Guide contains practical tips on
cultural context. The following sections are everything you need to know, from money
devoted to the country’s capital and various and language to getting around the country
regions, and include the major towns, sights and seeking medical care.
Major Cities
In this guide, Brazil is described
in 15 sections, two of which
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Rio de Janeiro is quite simply one of the world’s most beautiful
and vibrant cities, and is the number-one destination for visitors
BRAZIL AREA BY AREA  71
1 Introduction
An overview of
the history and
characteristics
coming to Brazil. Its unique setting, with dramatic mountains
concentrate on the country’s and beaches at its very center, sets it apart from the other great
cities of the world. In addition, Rio’s flamboyant Carnaval, samba,
of each city.
and bossa nova make for a heady mix that is impossible to ignore.
major cities – Rio de Janeiro and Rio de Janeiro was first discovered
by European explorers on January 1,
Today, Rio is an international metropolis
and a spectacular tropical resort. It has
São Paulo. A section is devoted 1502. They mistook the huge Guanabara
Bay for the mouth of a river (rio) and
called the site “River of January,” thus
several iconic sights, including the
enormous statue of Christ that looms
protectively over the city from Corcovado
to each city. All the sights are giving the city its name. Evidence of
the city’s colonial past can still be seen
mountain, the easily recognizable Sugar
LoafMmountain at one end of Urca Bay,
in downtown Rio, with buildings and and the famous stadium, Estádio Maracanã,
Each city can be quickly
numbered and plotted on an artifacts dating from the 16th to the
19th centuries, including the imposing
Paço Imperial and Palácio Tiradentes.
which opened for the 1950 World Cup and
has hosted crowds of up to 200,000 people.
Rio’s residents, affectionately called identified by its color-coding.
Exploring Map. Information on
In 1763, the city became the capital of “Cariocas,” are a laid-back, friendly people
Brazil’s Vice-Royalty and in 1808, the who love to go out. Visitors will be spoiled
Portuguese royal family and court for choice in this hedonistic city, and can
each sight is easy to locate within

abandoned Lisbon for Rio, making it the visit Lapa for its extravagant clubs, Gávea
capital of both Brazil and the Portuguese for its bars, and Ipanema and Leblon for
Empire. It remained home to the Brazilian their boutiques and restaurants. Rio’s
the chapter as it follows the

monarchy until 1889 and the capital of beaches provide ample opportunity for all
the Brazilian Republic until 1960, when manner of water sports and are a great
the title was awarded to the newly built meeting place for the city’s residents,
numerical order on the map.

Bauhaus-style Brasília. both rich and poor.
Country maps show the location

of each of the cities.
140  SOUTHEAST BRAZIL S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y  141
Exploring São Paulo City
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Brazil’s largest city covers an area of 6,332 sq miles (10,190 sq km). Practical Information
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 
R E PÚB
148 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y 149

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IO demolition after There are plenty of cinemas in local society and the global
NT
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CE World War II, the and around Paulista, along the community. The focus here is
QU
AV avenue had lost its avenue itself, in the Shopping as much on Brazilian people as
splendid character Paulista Mall, near Brigadeiro it is on the sport itself, allowing
High-rise modern buildings dominating the skyline, central São Paulo by the 1960s. Today, metro, and dotted along Rua da visitors to get a sense of how
only one mansion Consolação, near Paulista’s habits and behaviors changed
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp373–4 and pp389–90 remains, the French northern end. in this country throughout the
style Casa das Rosas, Together with the Praça da 20th century.
which is now a Sé (see p142), Paulista is one of The temporary exhibits at the
cultural center the city’s most important venues museum are complemented
managed and run for protests and celebrations. by a 16stage “fan path,” which
by São Paulo state. For a taste of Avenida Paulista visitors may walk through. Each
Interesting art shows as it once was, head a few room along the route offers a
are occasionally held blocks south, across the chic mixture of some of the history
here, but the 1935 shopping streets of the Jardins and excitement of soccer.
Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s mansion itself is

well worth visiting
for its pretty rose
and into Jardim Europa. Here,
along Avenida Brasil and
Avenida Groenlandia, the stately i Liberdade
Shrine Gate at Oriental Quarter Japanese Town, Liberdade
community, their origins, and roof. Visitors are welcome to
sights by category: churches, cathedrals,

garden and Art homes of the city’s current rich Praça da Sé, via Av da Liberdade.
their lives in early 20thcentury attend the various ceremonies,
Nouveau stained can be seen. q Praça de Sé/Liberdade. Brazil. These include a replica of the most impressive of which
glass window. @ Liberdade Rodoviária. the Kasato-Maru – the ship is the Cerimônia de Kannon,
There are a few which brought the first immi which takes place each month.
monastaries, historic buildings, museums,

P Casa das Rosas
other sights of Av Paulista 37. Tel (11) 3285 6986. São Paulo is home to more grants in 1908 (see p173) and The rituals, paying homage to
Aerial view of the exclusive Avenida Paulista interest along the Open 10am–10pm Tue–Sat, ethnic Japanese people than a complete early Japanese the Buddha’s compassionate
street. The Instituto 10am–6pm Sun & public hols. any other city outside Japan. Brazilian agricultural cottage. nature, are accompanied by
parks, gardens, streets, and neighborhoods. y Avenida Paulista

Map 4 E2, F2 & F3. q Brigadeiro/
TrianonMasp/Consolação. _ Gay
Itaú Cultural, near Brigadeiro
metro station, hosts a range of
concerts and exhibitions, all of
E Centro Cultural FIESP
Av Paulista 1313. Tel (11) 3146 7406.
Liberdade, located just south of
the city center, is the hub of the
Japanese community. The
The building also features a
lovely rooftop garden.
One of São Paulo’s many
traditional Japanese instruments.
E Museu da Imigração
which are free of charge. It also E Instituto Itaú Cultural neighborhood, small and easily Buddhist temples, built in 1995, Japonesa
Pride (Jun).
houses the largest currency Av Paulista 149. Tel (11) 2168 1777. manageable on foot, is best the Templo Busshinji lies west Rua São Joaquim 381. Tel (11) 3209
Modern São Paulo’s first symbol museum in the country, the Itaú Open 9am–8pm Tue–Fri, 11am–8pm explored during the afternoon. of the Museu da Imigração 5465. Open 1:30–5:30pm Tue–Sun. &
of prosperity, Avenida Paulista Numismática. The Centro Sat & Sun. ^ Streets are lined with shops and Japonesa on the same street.  Templo Busshinji
and its crowded skyscrapers Cultural FIESP, at TrianonMasp, Y Parque Trianon restaurants selling everything, Its traditional Japanesestyle Rua São Joaquim 285. Tel (11) 3208
continue to attest to Brazil’s is a business headquarters with Rua Peixoto Gomide 949. from woks and manga comics architecture comprising wood is 4515. Open 9am–5pm daily. 8 by
status as South America’s major a small Centro Cultural that Open 6am–6pm daily. to sushi and sashimi. On topped with a pyramidshaped prior appointment. &
economic power. Though often presents free live theater and Sundays, there is a lively market
compared to New York’s Fifth hosts occasional art shows. in the Praça de Liberdade,
u Museu do
3
Avenue, it is actually a Immediately to its north and where stalls serve up steaming São Paulo Fashion Week
Detailed Information
corporate valley, businesslike opposite MASP is the Parque Futebol lacquer bowls of miso soup Established in 1996, São Paulo’s fashion week is Latin America’s
and functional. Trianon, the only green respite Estádio do Pacaembu, Praça
and yakisoba noodles. most important fashion event. All of the top Brazilian names and
In the 19th century, when a from the concrete. It was named Charles Miller s/n. q Paulista. Liberdade’s main thorough faces, including Amir Slama and Havaianas, are showcased here,
Uruguayan named Joaquin in homage to the gardens of Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (hours fare, Rua Galvão Bueno, runs together with supermodels from around the world. The fashion
All the sights in each city are Eugenio de Lima first set up the Palace of Versailles, to which may change on match days). south from this square, lined fraternity can be seen in hip bars and boutiques in the wealthy
house here, Paulista was a hill it bears no resemblance. ∑ museudofutebol.org.br with the bulk of the shops and corners of the city. Over 100,000 people visit the show itself,
on the outskirts of a small However, in the quiet of the decorated with red Japanese which takes place twice a year – usually in January and March or
colonial town surrounded by early morning, small mammals, The Museum of Football is arches, or torii. Many of April – in Oscar Niemeyer’s Bienal building in Parque do Ibirapuera
described individually. Addresses, pastoral land and forest. including agouti and marmo not to be missed by any fan Liberdade’s most traditional (see pp150–51). More column inches are devoted to the event
than to any other activity in Brazil, except for soccer and political
Around this time, São Paulo sets, can be seen foraging here, of “the beautiful game.” Japanese restaurants are
scandals. The event generates an estimated $45 million through
was growing rich on trains and in the heat of the day, the Explore the history of soccer located on, and around, the media alone, with more than 2,500 newspaper and magazine
and coffee. Others followed trees provide welcome shade. in Brazil and its impact on both Rua Tomaz Gonzaga, which
telephone numbers, opening

pages and almost 200 hours of television coverage.
de Lima and began to build cuts across Galvão Bueno,
large houses here. south of the square.
By the turn of the 19th At the corner of Galvão
hours, admission charges, and

century, the avenue had Bueno and Rua São Joaquim,
become São Paulo’s most an undistinguished block
desirable address, and was lined houses the Museu da
with large, opulent mansions Imigração Japonesa (Japanese
information on how to get there

owned by extremely wealthy Immigration Museum). The
Brazilian moguls, or the coffee museum was opened in 1978
barons. Each mansion reflected by the erstwhile prince, now
the architectural predilections Emperor Akihito of Japan. It
are given for each sight. The key to of the owner, be it NeoClassical,
Rhineland, or even mockTudor.
Having suffered largescale

Tudor.
Parque Trianon, with its lush greenery, on Avenida Paulista
has two floors of artifacts and
displays devoted to telling the
story of the Japanese immigrant
A fashion show in full swing, with models displaying a collection
symbols is shown on the back flap.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp373–4 and pp389–90
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
BAHIA
The largest state in the Northeast, Bahia is known for its endless
stretches of stunning beach along the Atlantic coast. The idyllic
white-sand coast is dotted with laid-back resorts along its
Each area of Brazil is Brazil Area by Area
length. Beyond the gorgeous beaches and plains, where most of
Bahia’s population lives today, lies the sertão, an arid semi-desert
identified by color-coded
partially covered in caatinga, a dry scrub forrest rish in plant and bird life.
thumb tabs. In this book, the country is
described in 15 chapters, two of
When the Portuguese first arrived in Bahia was also the key point of entry for
Bahia in 1500, the entire 621-mile the thousands of slaves brought to Brazil
(1,000-km) coastline was covered in a from ports in Africa. The legacy of that
swathe of lush green Atlantic rainforest. transatlantic trade can be seen in Bahia’s
Country maps show the
Today, only a few pockets of the cultural diversity. The state has Brazil’s
which concentrate on Brazil’s major
location and area of each
rainforest remain along the coast in highest percentage of Afro-Brazilian
isolated patches. Inland from the coast, residents. Bahia’s percussion-driven music,
the Portuguese successfully established
the cultivation of sugar cane, and later
cotton and cocoa in the Recôncavo, a
the fast fight-dance known as capoeira,
and the spiritualist Yoruban Candomblé
religion all have their roots in Africa. region of Brazil. cities and 13 on the country’s main
narrow, flat, well-watered plain, which
they called the agreste.
Bahia played a key role in the history of
In addition to these legacies, visitors
to Bahia can experience one of Brazil’s
longest and most beautiful coastlines.
regions. The map on the inside front
1
Brazil. Salvador, its capital, was founded in
1549, and served for over two centuries as
the administrative and political center of
Fine beach resorts such as Praia do Forte
and Costa do Sauípe lie to the north of
Salvador. To the capital’s south, there are Introduction cover shows this regional division.
colonial Brazil. The legacy of that period
is on display in Salvador’s colonial core,
Pelourinho, a jewel of colonial Baroque
small villages such as Morro de São Paulo
and Itacaré. Inland, Bahia provides unique
hiking amid the mesas and valleys of An overview of The most interesting places to visit
churches, cathedrals, and palaces. the Chapada Diamantina.
the history and are given on the Regional Map at

characteristics the beginning of each chapter.
of each region.
282  NORTHERN BRAZIL
Exploring Amazonas, Roraima,

Acre & Rondônia
A view of the Parque Nacional Marinho dos Abrolhos, comprising an archipelago of five islands
AMAZONAS, RORAIMA, ACRE & RONDÔNIA  283
2 Regional Map
This shows the main
road network and gives
This region offers the ultimate rainforest experience. Most
The bright colors of Pelourinho’s Old Town
an illustrated overview
people travel here to explore the dense forests, picturesque
river islands, and tranquil waterways. The sights include
Manaus, the legendary capital city of Amazonas, which offers
of the whole region. All

much architectural and cultural interest. Also located in Monte Caburaí
4,777 ft (1,456 m)
Amazonas is the Mamirauá Reserve, Brazil’s first sustainable
Mataruca
development reserve. The secluded and beautiful mountains
C o tt i n ga
Normandia
of Roraima are worth a visit, as is Acre, with its natural beauty,
interesting places to
Serra Merari
4,068 ft (1,240 m)
Se r r a Pa r i
history, and seringueiro (rubber-tapping) culture. Porto Velho, Spectacled caimans can be found
Ur Uraricoera
near Manaus ari Bonfim
the capital of Rondônia, overlooking the Amazon’s longest coer
a
tributary, the mighty Rio Madeira, is a lively place to visit. BOA VISTA
visit are numbered and

m Serra Grande
a
Riverboat excursions on the Rio Madeira are a good way to 3,773 ft (1,150 m)
idle away a few hours and spot a few pink dolphins. Altamira
RORAIMA The Rio Branco snaking through Roraima
De Caracarai
m
Camarão in
there are useful tips on

Ca
i Nova Paraiso
tri
Marabitanas Ar
ma
aç
Pico da Neblina
er i
ni
a
9,888 ft (3,014 m) Catrimani ap

Uaruma Jau
getting around.
Uaupés Castanheiro Calanaque
laú
Branco
Boiaçu
iari
Ala
ieur
Pitinga
Cur São João xi

Negr Key
eiu
o
Ja
é
M ar i
Un
ta
p
Major road
u
Novo Tucandera Moura

Julia Japu Represa
rá Marapi de Balbina Santa Maria Minor road
i
uin Presidente
Capana Estação Ecológica Pa Novo Airão International border
Figuerido
Mamiraua
Tauapeçaçu Urucara State border
Tonantins
P io
Içá Fonte Boa PARINTINS Peak

aí
r in
Jut
MANAUS
Amazonas
Tefé
i
Maloca
Am
u
azon
Jur
São Paulo Amataurá Manacapuru

as Careiro
ra
de Olivença
ei
Repartimento
ad
Coari
Boats anchored on the Rio Madeira outside Porto Velho
M
Tabatinga Borba
Caxias s
i Itaboca ru
ar Pu Cantagalo
ba
Carauari Co Novo Aripuanã
Story boxes explore some of

tu
Jutaí
Sights at a Glance Boa Vista
ia
nd
Ja Itatuba
Juta
Jaburu Manicoré
í
Towns & Cities

Itu
Su
Santarém
AMAZONAS
cun
á
Cama
Foz de Tapa
u
the region’s historical and cultural

1 Manaus pp284–7 Rodrigues Gregório
duri
Itamarati
2 Parintins
iú
u á uá
Jur X ir Lábrea Pirapetinga Apuí
3 Boa Vista
Mamoriá
subjects in detail.
4 Rio Branco Humaitá Sumaúma
5 Porto Velho Pucallpa Feijó Calama
Cruzeiro ri
A
do Sul Tarauacá pu
an Jacaretinga
ã
ACRE Floriano
Peixoto
Boca do Acre PORTO
VELHO Tabajara
co
Taumaturgo Sena Madureira

Ia
Caracol
Jírau
Progresso Ariquemes
RIO BRANCO
Ouro Preto Jarú
Guanabara d’Oeste
Getting Around Xapuri Ji-Paraná
Joining an organized tour with one of the companies in Manaus, Boa RO N D Ô N I A

Pimenta Bueno
Vista, Porto Velho, or Rio Branco is the best way to see the Amazon
jungle. Most companies offer accommodation in tourist lodges and Costa Marques
travel by a combination of road and riverboat or canoe. For those 0 km 200 290  NORTHERN BRAZIL AMAZONAS, RORAIMA, ACRE & RONDÔNIA  291
who want to travel independently, it is possible to move around the
0 miles 200
jungle on local riverboats. Road travel is also possible from all cities.
Manaus, for instance, is only 6 hours by bus from Novo Airão, on the
Rio Negro, where it is possible to bathe in jungle rivers and swim rainforest setting. Much of it is 2 Parintins
with pink dolphins. surrounded by narrow creeks, Amazonas. * 105,000.
hidden among forests full of g from Manaus. _ Festa do
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp378–9 and pp394–5 sloths, monkeys, and colorful, Boi Bumbá (Jun); Festa das Pastorinhas
noisy tropical birds. The river (Dec–Jan).
and lake offer the opportunity
to see both pink and gray river A large jungle town, Parintins
dolphins, as well as to go was originally the refuge of a
piranha fishing. Nearby, the community of indigenous
3
Lago Arara is great for fishing, riverine people, known as
Detailed Information
and home to a pink dolphin caboclos, who were escaping
caboclos
Limpid blue sky mirrored in the clear waters of Lago Mamori feeding ground. The local Portuguese slave traders. Today,
people, known as caboclos, have Parintins is best known for its
} Lago Manaquiri the area. Nonetheless, fishing been here for generations and popular Festa do Boi Bumbá.
All the important towns and

40 miles (64 km) SW of Manaus. remains the main activity, and live in scattered riverside The festival is celebrated in
∑ visitamazonastour.com/site2/en there are many tour operators communities, occasionally Cormorants and great egrets in the Mamirauá Reserve June, when the town gets so
A 5-hour boat ride from based in Manaus, offering coming together for celebra- packed that visitors often stay
Manaus, the backwater lake of budget fishing packages. tions. They earn their living by O Instituto de expeditions in the lakes and on boats.
other places to visit are dealt

Manaquiri is best entered first It is always best to book your making farinha (manioc flour), Desenvolvimento trails in the forest. Though there is little else to
via the Rio Solimões, then trip through a travel company rearing cattle, and fishing. Visits Sustentável Mamirauá The preserve also offers see, besides the well-preserved
upstream to a tributary that registered with the Brazilian to the caboclo homes can be 280 miles (450 km) W of Manaus. comfortable and ecologically colonial architecture,
architec Parintins is
leads to the lake. Its waters rise Tourism Bureau (Embratur) organized by Gero’s Tours. Run ∑ uakarilodge.com.br Programa de sound accommodation at the known for its rich indigenous
with individually. They are and fall with the seasons. (see p409). Some of the tour independently by English- Ecoturismo: Tel (97) 3343 4160. floating Uakari Lodge (see p378) culture, and the local handicrafts
Relatively isolated, the Lago agencies provide typical speaking Gero Mesquita, it can Located at the confluence of close to forest trails, pretty make unique souvenirs. The flea
Manaquiri is usually a good spot Amazon riverboats, which may book hotels, arrange transport, two rivers, the Rio Solimões jungle lakes, and caboclo markets sell everything from
for seeing waterbirds, including come fully equipped with and meticulously plan tours. and Rio Japurá, the Mamirauá communities. Book through a trinkets, lace, and bead-work to
listed in order, following the the great egret (Casmerodius

albus) and fish eagles. It is not
unusual to see caimans and
kitchen, dining area, canopied
sundeck, bathroom, and
shower. Fishing is best in the dry
Farther upstream and deeper
into the forest from here, the Rio
Juma region offers better access
Sustainable Development
Reserve covers an area of
5703 sq miles (14,770 sq km).
Manaus tour company, or
directly with the Programa de
Ecoturismo in Tefé, 16 miles
masks and mahogany carvings.
During the dry season, boat
trips can be taken to nearby
numbering given on the

large Amazonian alligators on season, which usually lasts from to wildlife, but requires Since 1990, when it was (25 km) south. lakes and river beaches.
the sandy shore. August to December or January. expedition-type preparation declared an ecological station,
The lake provides sustenance and several days. the Mamirauá Reserve has been
to the small fishing town of } Lago Mamori Nature Safaris, a tour one of Brazil’s most prized Festa do Boi Bumbá
Regional Map. Each entry

Manaquiri. Local economy 60 miles (96 km) SE of Manaus. company based in Manaus, ecotourism spots. The vibrant festival, Festa do Boi Bumbá, is centered around a
depends more on fishing than Gero’s Tours: Rua 10 de Julho 679, can arrange expeditions in Splendid and luxuriant, its ritualistic dance recounting the death and rebirth of a legendary
on tourism. In 1995 and 2005, Manaus. Tel (92) 9983 6273. Amazônia, offering short várzea (seasonally flooded) boi (ox). Originating on the 18th-century Northeast plantations, the
however, both were hit by the ∑ amazongero.com Nature Safaris: package tours, as well as longer vegetation offers plenty of festival arrived in Parintins almost 100 years ago with the Cid brothers
also contains practical

worst drought in over 40 years, Rua Flavio Espiritu 1, Manaus. Tel (92) safaris. It is possible to stay either opportunity for spotting from Maranhão. They brought with them the Bumba-meu-boi
when the lagoons evaporated, 3656 3357. ∑ naturesafaris.com.br in a floating lodge, or one of the abundant wildlife, including (see p47) musical influence, steeped in the vibrant rhythms of the
and thousands of dead fish lay Easily accessible by road and many jungle lodges along the endemic species such as the Northeast. The last few decades saw the festival gaining in prominence.
on the bed of the dried-up lake. boat from Manaus, the elongat- Rio Juma. Most of them offer white uakari monkey and black- Every June, at least 35,000 people crowd into Bumbódromo, a purpose-
information such as map The changed climatic condi- ed and breathtaking Lago jungle hikes, piranha fishing, headed squirrel monkey. The built stadium in the town center, to join in the revelries. The fantastic
tions continue to deplete fish in Mamori is located in a lush and caiman spotting at night. annual flood transforms the life procession incorporates dazzlingly dressed participants, including
of the whole region. During the mythological beasts. The rivalry between the two competing camps,
the red Garantido and the blue Caprichoso groups, is expressed in
high-water season, fish invade
references, addresses,
traditional songs. Over the years, this competitive spirit, which goes
the flooded forest and disperse
right down to who wears the most outlandish costume, has brought
seeds as they move about. More forth some radical and electrifying spectacles.
than 300 species of fish have
telephone numbers, and

already been catalogued in the
reserve. Mamirauá is also home
to pink river dolphin, great egret,
and the rare scarlet macaw. The
opening times.
Neotropic cormorant, whose
diet consists mainly of fish, can
be spotted swimming and
feeding in large, noisy flocks.
In the dry season, which lasts
from September to December,
one can walk on trails, or paddle
almost silently through them on
canoes. The preserve’s eco-
tourism program features a
range of activities, which Garantido in bright red headgear, gearing up for the contest
Caimans luxuriating on the sandy riverbank of Manaquiri, with a great egret in the foreground includes guided nature
194  NORTHEAST BRAZIL SALVADOR  195
6 Igreja e Convento de São Francisco . Main Altar

A statue of Jesus on the cross
with St. Francis by his side
Practical information at the beginning

The complex of the Church and Convent of St. Francis, which graces the main altar. The blue-
Practical Information
was constructed between 1708 and 1750, is one of Brazil’s Largo Cruzeiro de São Francisco,
and-white tiles behind the main
Praça Anchieta, Pelourinho.
most impressive Baroque monuments. The convent’s church altar tell the life story of the
Tel (71) 3322 6430.
of each entry gives helpful information

stands out for its rich and opulent interior. The inner walls and saint. The gold-and-white motif
Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Sat,
is offset by dark jacaranda
the ceiling are largely covered in gold leaf. The main altar and wood hand railings.
10am–3pm Sun. & 8 7
the large side altars are magnificently carved out of wood and Igreja Terceira Ordem de São
about visiting the sight or attraction.

Francisco: Rua Inácio Accioli.
in typical Baroque style, ornately decorated with angels, birds, Open 8am–5pm daily. &
mermaids, fruits, and leaves. An enormous silver chandelier
hangs above intricate wooden carvings, and hand-painted
blue-and-white Portuguese tiles.
. Franciscan Shield
Featuring the crossed forearms
of Jesus and St. Francis, the shield
represents the bond between
the two.
The Visitors’ Checklist provides a

Cloisters
These secluded interior arcades are where
summary of the practical information
the monks of St. Francis would gather for
prayer or quiet contemplation. you need to plan your visit.
São Pedro de Alcântara
The altar of São Pedro de
Alcântara, carved by Brazilian
artist Manuel Inácio da Costa,
is a particularly fine example
of Brazilian Baroque.
Stars indicate the best sights and
Black Saint, Saint
Benedict
Two of the side
important features.
altars are dedicated
to black saints such
as Santa Efigênia, an
Ethiopian princess,
and São Bento, the
son of African slaves.
Façade
The church façade dominates Igreja Terceira Ordem de São Francisco
the Largo de São Francisco with The ornately carved and
4
imposing twin bell towers. detailed sandstone façade of
Brazil’s Top Sights

the church of the Third Order
of St. Francis next door is the
only one of its kind in Brazil.
Oil Painting of . Azulejos The façade remained hidden
KEY St. Francis Brought over from
These are given two or more full

for many years behind a layer
The oil painting Portugal in 1743, of plaster, only to be
1 Doors and windows in bright depicting an event in the decorative tiles uncovered accidentally when
tones adorn the outer walls of the life of St. Francis in are based on the wiring was being installed in
the church. the church entryway etchings by Flemish
pages. Buildings are dissected to

the 1930s. The church also
2 Detailing of pure gold leaf is one of the classic painter Otto van has a museum and a room Soapstone exterior of
decorates the church interior. examples of Brazilian Veen in his book of Franciscan tombs. the church
Baroque Illusionism. of moral emblems.
show their interiors.

introducing
brazil
Discovering Brazil 10–15

Putting Brazil on the Map 16–19
A Portrait of Brazil 20–43
Brazil Through the Year 44–49
The History of Brazil 50–63
10  INTRODUCING BRAZIL
DISCOVERING BRAZIL
No visitor to Brazil should ever underestimate Amazon rainforest; Salvador, one of the
the size of the country or its largest cities. jewels of the country’s northeast coast;
Brazil is a place of continental dimensions and Rio de Janeiro itself. There is also the
that can comfortably house all of Europe – suggestion for a one-week coastal drive
with room to spare. Therefore, when we traveling from São Paulo, the country’s
suggest a two-week itinerary of popular business capital, to Rio de Janeiro, its leisure
Brazilian highlights, keep in mind that this and culture hub. Finally, there are two-day
is the same as trying to visit all of Europe itineraries for Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo,
over a two-week period, and that it will as well as Salvador. Time is tight on most
require air travel. Brazilian highlights of these itineraries, all of which are easy to
include the falls at Foz do Iguaçu; the extend and expand to the time available
Modernist Brazilian capital, Brasília; the so that you can learn more about this
world’s largest wetland, the Pantanal; the gigantic and diverse country.
Am az o n
Manaus
s
ajó
z on
p
Ama
Ta
A MAZONAS
RO N D Ô NIA
MATO
GROSSO
The large auditorium at the Teatro Amazonas in

Manaus, in the northwest of the country, still features 0 km 400
Cuiabá
its original and impressive belle époque decor. 0 miles 400
Pantanal
Two Weeks around Brazil MATO

GROSSO
DO SUL
•
Explore the Brazilian •
Visit the famous opera •
Walk on the sands of
and Argentinian sides of house in Manaus, in the some of the world’s
Foz do Iguaçu, where heart of the Amazon. most famous beaches,
a river is divided by 275 •
Discover the African including Copacabana
spectacular waterfalls. influences behind and Ipanema.
Foz do Iguaçu
•
Marvel at the Modernist Bahia’s cuisine, religion, •
Experience São Paulo’s Parque Nacional
architecture and music, dance, dress, superb restaurants and Iguazú
innovative urban and arts and crafts. nightlife, and visit its
planning in the Brazilian •
Admire one of greatest great museums.
capital, Brasília. collections of colonial •
Appreciate the diversity
•
Get up close and architecture and of this great country
personal with the flora treasures in the world in in terms of landscapes,
and fauna that make Pelourinho, Salvador’s cuisine, culture, and
up the Pantanal, the historic center. its people.
planet’s largest wetlands. •
Stand at the feet of Rio
•
Travel along the de Janeiro’s iconic
Amazon river and statue of Christ the
experience a night in Redeemer, on the
the Amazon rainforest. summit of Corcovado.
A painting in naive style by Calixto Sales, depicting a market scene in Maragojipe, Bahia
DISCOVERING BRAZIL  11
A Week on the Costa

Verde (Green Coast)
•
Experience one of the
world’s great coastal drives.
•
Discover Rio de Janeiro’s
most westerly suburb,
Barra da Tijuca, home
to the Olympic Village.
•
Enjoy the contrast between
the greenery of the Atlantic
rainforest and pristine
sandy beaches.
The Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) is one of the most
distinctive architectural landmarks in Brazil. Built in the 1960s, •
Stop off and enjoy a wide
it contains a prestigious collection of art from Europe and Brazil. variety of beaches along
the way.
Key •
Explore the enchanting
Pará Belém Two-week tour islands of Ilha Grande
and Ilhabela.
Costa Verde (Green
Coast) tour •
Wander the colonial-era
PA RÁ Fortaleza
streets of Paraty and soak
up the atmosphere of times
M AR A NH ÃO
Xin
CEARÁ gone by.

gu
RI O G RA N D E
Enjoy the hospitality of some
s
•
D O N O R TE
tin
of Brazil’s most charming

n
To c a
P I A UÍ PA RA Í BA and atmospheric small

Recife hotels, bars, and restaurants.
o
Fr a n cisc PERN A M BU C O
o
Sã ALAGOAS
T OC A N T IN S SERG I PE
BAHIA
Salvador
Brasília Atlantic
GOI Á S Ocean
M I N AS
G E R AI S
ná
E S P Í R I TO
ra
S A NT O
Pa
S ÃO RIO DE This aerial view of Rio de Janeiro

JA NE I R O
PA U LO highlights some of the city’s most
Rio de appealing aspects: its verdant
Janeiro See Costa Verde mountains and its sandy coastline,
inset map below
PA RANÁ
gently caressed by the ocean.
Costa Verde
S ANTA
CATAR I NA
Rio de
R IO Janeiro
G R A NDE Angra dos Reis
D O SUL
Barra da
Paraty Ilha Grande Tijuca
São Paulo Ubatuba
Camburi
São Sebastião
São Bernardo
Maresias Atlantic
do Campo Ilhabela
Ocean
Guarujá
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Two Days in (Museum of Tomorrow) or summit. If your timing is right,

Rio de Janeiro admire the art chronicling the you will be able to enjoy the
city’s history in Museu de Arte change in light as darkness
Rio de Janeiro is one of the do Rio. envelops the city below. After
world’s most beautiful and dinner, enjoy some bossa nova
exciting cities, blessed by a Afternoon Continue to explore or samba (p97), or return to Lapa.
backdrop of mountains, rain the city’s historic center (pp74–
forest, beaches, and the sea. 9), an area that is packed with To extend your trip…
museums, galleries, cultural Visit the historic mountain
•
Arriving Tom Jobim
centers, and historic churches. town of Petrópolis (pp116–
International Airport is
The city center is fairly compact 19), or head to the Costa
located 12 miles (20 km)
and easy to walk around, with do Sol and its highlight, the
from the city. If traveling from
plenty of options for a lunchtime town of Búzios (pp120–21).
São Paulo, you may land at
break, such as the famous Also within a comfortable
the Santos Dumont airfield.
Confeitaria Colombo (p76). In drive are the historic towns
Both have bus and taxi links.
the evening, see a show at the of Minas Gerais (pp125–37).
•
Moving on Take a flight Theatro Municipal (p77) or
or a long-distance bus to Circo Voador (p78), or enjoy the
explore Brazil. Alternatively, nightlife and bohemian feel of
rent a car and follow the Lapa (p97) and its great live
Two Days in São Paulo
coast to São Paulo (see p14). music venues.
São Paulo is the business
Day 2 capital of Brazil and South
Day 1 Morning Take a leisurely walk America. The city spreads
Morning Start at the summit of along the beachfront of over a vast area, but many
Morro do Corcovado (pp86–7), Copacabana (p82), Ipanema of its attractions sit close
atop which stands the statue of (p83), or Leblon (p83), soaking together or in clusters.
Cristo Redentor (Christ the up the scenery and vibe. Swap •
Arriving Guarulhos Inter-
Redeemer; p86). From here, the sand for greenery, and head
national Airport is located
much of Rio is laid out before across to the Botanical Garden
17 miles (28 km) northeast
you. Take the cog train (p87) (p84). Nearby is the Lagoa
of the city. If coming from
from the station in Rua Cosme Rodrigo de Freitas (p84), where
Rio de Janeiro, you may land
Velho to the top. On the for lunch you can choose a lake-
at the smaller, more central
17-minute journey you will pass side kiosk or the more sophisti-
Congonhas in the southwest.
through parts of the Tijuca cated Lagoon center, with views
Forest (p87). Spend at least an across the Lagoa to Corcovado. •
Moving on To explore
hour at the summit. Back at the Brazil, take a flight or a long-
Rua Cosme Velho station, drop Afternoon Pass through distance bus. Alternatively,
in on the neighboring Museu Botafogo, home to a number rent a car and follow the
Internacional de Arte Naïf of museums, most notably the coast to Rio (see p14).
(International Naive Art Museum; Museu do Índio (p85), or stop
p87) before taking a taxi across
p87 off at the Rio Sul mall (pp94–5)
town to the docks and for some retail therapy. Mid- Day 1
waterfront (Porto Maravilha) afternoon, explore Sugar Loaf Morning São Paulo’s historic
(p76) for a stroll along the Mountain (pp80–81), one of center (pp142–6) is well worth a
pedestranized boulevard. Visit the city’s iconic sights. Leave visit. After rush hour, head for
either the innovative science plenty of time to enjoy both Praça de Sé, a good location
museum, Museu de Amanhã Morro da Urca (p80) and the from which to visit many of the
area’s attractions, including the
Catedral Metropolitana (p142)
and the Pátio do Colégio (p142),
where São Paulo was founded.
Arrive at the Edifício Itália (p143)
for lunch. The view may be
better than the food, but you
won’t regret it. Edifício Altino
Arantes (p143), a miniature
version of the Empire State
Building, is a famous landmark.
Afternoon Slightly north is

another cluster of historic attrac-
tions, many located close to Praça
Cog train traveling through the Tijuca Forest on its way to Morro do Corcovado, Rio de Janeiro da Luz. These include one of
For practical information on traveling around Brazil’s cities, see pp426–7
Day 2
Morning Start the day in Nazaré,
at the Arena Fonte Nova, one of
the most admired stadiums of
the 2014 World Cup. The tours
start at 9am and take 1 hour and
15 minutes. Close by are the
Museu de Arte Sacra (p196), the
Museu de Arte Moderna (p196),
and the Solar do Unhão (p196), a
17th-century colonial sugar mill.
The complex’s atmospheric
View across the Parque do Ibirapuera, which features many museums and is an important restaurant, with its wonderful
green lung in the city of São Paulo views, is a great choice for lunch.
South America’s main museums, Afternoon Visit and enjoy the

the Pinacoteca de São Paulo
Two Days in Salvador beaches of Salvador, which
(pp144–5), as well as the Museu stretch west along the Atlantic
de Arte Sacra (p146) and the Salvador, the first capital of coast (pp198–9). Start at the
Victorian-styled Estação da Luz Brazil, was also at the center most famous, Praia do Farol
(p146). São Paulo’s nightlife is of the slave trade, which da Barra, which features a
highly rated, so in the evening makes it the most “African” lighthouse and the Forte de
catch a show or visit a club (p156). of all Brazilian cities. The Santo Antônio (p197), a city
continent’s influences can landmark in its own right.
Day 2 be found in everything from Nearby, Porto da Barra is a
Morning Head to the huge cuisine and arts to religion. popular beach from which to
Parque do Ibirapuera (pp150– watch the sunset. Try Praia de
•
Arriving The Deputado
51), which is home to a number Amaralina if you are interested
Luíz E. Magalhães
of important museums and in surfing or sailboarding.
International Airport is
galleries, including the Museu de
located 17 miles (28 km)
Arte Moderna (p151), the Museu To extend your trip…
to the north of the city.
Afro Brasil, and the Bienal Spend time exploring the
There are bus and taxi links.
Building. Walk along Avenida coast of Bahia. To the south
Paulista (p148) to understand •
Moving on TTo explore Brazil, are Ilha de Itaparica (p200)
why São Paulo is the financial take a flight from the airport. and Morro de São Paulo
capital of South America, then go (p202). The coast to the north
into the internationally acclaimed is known as the Linha Verde,
Museu de Arte de São Paulo Day 1 or Green Line (p211), and
(MASP) (p147). Next, head to Rua Morning The crown jewel of includes Praia do Forte and
Oscar Freire and Rua Bela Cintra, Salvador is the restored historic Costa do Sauípe. Or head
an area that offers plenty of center, Pelourinho (pp190–93), a inland to visit Lençóis (p208)
charming options for lunch. UNESCO World Heritage Site and the spectacular Parque
Browse the distinctive, top-end with colonial houses, Baroque Nacional de Chapada
boutiques around here. churches, and museums. Don’t Diamantina (pp208–9).
miss the church and convent of
Afternoon After lunch, go São Francisco (pp194–5). Spend
north to Praça Charles Miller, the entire morning walking in
named for the Englishman who and around Pelourinho, which
brought soccer to Brazil. Here is offers many charming and
the Estádio do Pacaembu, built atmospheric places for lunch.
in 1940 and used for the 1950
World Cup, and also the highly Afternoon Take the Elevador
celebrated Museu do Futebol Lacerda (p193), built in 1873,
(pp148–9). Options for the rest down to the lower city to visit
of the afternoon include a the Mercado Modelo (p196),
visit to the Instituto Butantã which houses a wide selection
(p152), one of the world’s most of northeastern arts and crafts.
important research centers Since the market is popular with
for venomous animals, or to visitors, you can expect to see
Liberdade (p149), the hub for a demonstration of capoeira
the city’s massive Japanese (p203). Bahia is famous for its
community. In the evening, cuisine, so find a restaurant
experience the city’s restaurants for dinner and experience the Christian cross in front of the church and
and nightlife. local dishes and delicacies. convent of São Francisco in Salvador
A Week on the Costa the landscape and nightlife, Days 5 and 6: Ilha Grande
Verde (Green Coast) and spend the night at one It is quite possible to drive
of the numerous pousadas. straight from Paraty to Rio de
Travel along a spectacular The island is especially lively Janeiro. However, if you have
coastline and explore historic at the weekend. time, stop at Angra dos Reis
towns, beautiful beaches, (p114), leave the car, and take
and pretty islands. Day 3: Ilhabela to Paraty the ferry over to Ilha Grande
Spend the morning exploring (p114), one of the largest of the
•
Airports Arrive and depart
Ilhabela, before taking the 365 islands to be found in the
from São Paulo and Rio
ferry back to the mainland bay. Spend at least two nights on
de Janeiro’s international
and following the coast east this beautiful, unspoilt island,
(Guarulhos/Tom Jobim)
to Ubatuba (p168), a small and explore it on foot or by
or domestic (Congonhas/
beach resort with a colonial boat. You will need to take cash,
Santos Dumont) airports.
center. This part of the coast since there are no banks or
•
Transport This itinerary is offers nearly 60 miles (100 km) ATMs there, and no cars. Most of
best done by rental car. It is of beaches for you to discover, the main pousadas are a short
also possible to do most of all wrapped up in Atlantic distance from the ferry dock, at
the route by using the bus rainforest. Praia Grande, close to Vila do Abraão. There are nearly
services that link the towns. Ubatuba, is a popular location 100 miles (160 km) of trails that
•
Booking ahead It is best for lunch. Continue to the cover the entire island, so enjoy
to have all accommodation historic colonial town of Paraty a hike and visit ruins, waterfalls,
booked in advance, (pp110–11), much of which mountains, and beaches,
particularly on weekends. dates from the 18th century. including Lopes Mendes,
If you are sure of your En route, you will cross the one of the island’s – and
timings, you can also pre- state border between São Brazil’s – most beautiful. (You
book the ferries to Ilhabela Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, shortly will need to take a boat taxi.)
and Ilha Grande. after which the road will no
longer hug the coast. Paraty’s Day 7: Rio de Janeiro
•
Tips You can start this
picturesque historic center is From the ferry terminal in Angra
itinerary in Rio de Janeiro
where the majority of the dos Reis, take the coastal road,
and work back to São Paulo.
charming pousadas, bars, following the signs to Rio de
and restaurants are located. Janeiro (pp70–105) via Barra
da Tijuca (pp90–91). This is one
Day 1: São Paulo Day 4: Paraty of Rio’s most affluent suburbs.
Pick a day from the city itinerary Wander around Paraty’s If you have time, it is worth
on pp12–13. cobbled, pedestrian, sea- visiting a number of attractions
washed streets, popping into as you pass through Barra, such
Day 2: São Paulo to Ilhabela the beautifully restored colonial as Sitio Roberto Burle Marx
Plan to leave mid-morning, houses, museums, churches, and (p91) and Casa do Pontal (p91).
after the worst of the city’s art galleries, or take a relaxing Alternatively, head to Barra
rush hour is over. Head for the schooner ride around the many Shopping Center (p90) for
050 (SP-150), which will take islands (p112) close by. some retail therapy.
you south, to the coast, via São
Bernardo do Campo. As you To extend your trip… To extend your trip…
leave the city, the scenery Consider staying two nights Spend a couple of days
changes to a series of lakes in Paraty to fully soak up the exploring Rio de Janeiro. See
surrounded by hills. You will colonial atmosphere. the city itinerary on p12.
wind your way through them
before dropping down to
Guarujá (p169) – this descent
to the coast is spectacular.
Guarujá offers excellent options
for lunch on the beachfront.
Continue east along the coastal
road toward São Sebastião
(p168). You will pass many
beautiful beaches, such as
Camburi, Camburizinho, and
Maresias (p169). From São
Sebastião, take the 15-minute
ferry to Ilhabela (p169), an
island and yachting center
offering mountain scenery,
beaches, and waterfalls. Enjoy A beach in the small town of Trindade, near Paraty, on the Costa Verde
For practical information on traveling around Brazil’s cities, see pp426–7
Two Weeks at the Hotel das Cataratas, so

around Brazil you have access to the park. If
you can time your visit with a full
This itinerary offers a tour of moon, you may get the chance
many iconic Brazilian sights, to see a moonbow, or lunar
experiences, and highlights. rainbow – truly a memorable
experience. If you have spare
•
Airports Because of the
time on the second day, visit
distances involved, you will
nearby Itaipu Binacional (p346),
need to fly between the
one of the world’s largest
main cities and gateways
hydroelectric dams. Other
to be visited. Consider
options include Parque das
purchasing a Brazil Air Pass
Aves (p346), an impressive
before arriving in Brazil.
aviary full of exotic birds, or a
For more information
helicopter flight over the falls.
about domestic air travel,
see pp420–21.
Day 3: Brasília
•
Transport Taxis and public Take an early flight from Foz Visitors at Foz do Iguaçu, the largest
transport are available. In to the Brazilian capital, Brasília waterfalls in the world
most of the cities and loca (pp306–9). This relatively small
tions, you will have the option and compact city has an array the Amazon. On arrival in
to join an organized tour. of attractions and can easily Manaus (pp284–5), use the
•
Booking ahead It is best be explored on foot or as part rest of the day to explore the
to book all city accommo of an organized tour. Visit the city, the Teatro Amazonas
dations, Amazon lodges, TV Tower (p306) for a bird’s (pp286–7), the Museu do
and the trips to the eye view of the city and to Índio (p285), the waterfront,
Pantanal in advance. appreciate its Modernist and the market (p284).
architecture and innovative
urban planning. Brasília was one Days 7 & 8: The Amazon
Day 1: Iguaçu Falls of the host cities of the 2014 Spend two days out in a remote
(Brazilian side) World Cup, and the National Amazon lodge. Take a cruise on
Start the tour in Foz do Iguaçu Stadium (Estádio Nacional de a traditional Amazon riverboat
(pp344–6). Visit the Brazilian Brasília Mané Garrincha) was to explore parts of the world’s
side of the falls first – there are built for the tournament. biggest rainforest (pp288–9).
more than 275 spreading over
2 miles (3 km). If you have time, Days 4 & 5: Pantanal Days 9 & 10: Salvador
take an exhilarating inflatable Head to the Pantanal (pp324–5), Return to Manaus for the flight
boat trip to the mouth of the the planet’s largest wetland, to Salvador (pp188–99). Follow
falls (be prepared to get wet). which covers an area of 89,000 the city itinerary on p13.
There are many places to stay in sq miles (230,000 sq km). To
Foz. If your budget allows, stay reach the Pantanal, take a short Days 11–14: Rio de Janeiro
at the Hotel das Cataratas flight from Brasília to Cuiabá Fly to Rio de Janeiro (pp70–105).
Belmond (p381), the only hotel (p322), credited with being the You will need at least two or
that lies in the national park warmest city in Brazil. There is three full days to do any justice
next to the falls. It allows you to not a lot to see in Cuiabá, so you to Brazil’s most famous city.
visit and view the falls when the will be met at the airport and See the city itinerary on p12.
park is closed to everyone else. taken straight out to a lodge
or farm. All accommodations To extend your trip…
Day 2: Iguaçu Falls in the Pantanal offer guided This itinerary could comfort
(Argentinian side) excursions to see the area’s ably be extended to three
Take an organized tour to the unique and rich ecosystem, weeks or more if you have
Argentinian Parque Nacional with special tours for birders, the time, since virtually all
Iguazú (p347); check in advance visitors keen on tracking the the cities included offer the
if you need a visa. The park offers Brazilian jaguar, horse riders, and option to explore other areas
many more walkways through those interested in the region’s of Brazil in more detail, be it
and along the falls than are to abundant fish life. It is much the south (pp328–63) from
be found on the Brazilian side. easier to spot Brazil’s fauna and Foz do Iguaçu; the central
The popular Devil’s Throat is the prolific birdlife in the Pantanal west (pp294–327) from
most impressive fall, so avoid the than in the more dense Brasília; the northeast coast
crowds by walking there first, vegetation of the Amazon. (pp176–259) from Salvador;
then working your way back or the historic towns of
to the park entrance. In the Day 6: Manaus Minas Gerais (pp124–137)
evening, visit the falls on the Return to Cuiabá for the flight from Rio de Janeiro.
Brazilian side again. Have dinner to Manaus, in the heart of
16  InTroducIng BrAzIl
Putting Brazil on the Map

The largest country in South America, Brazil borders VENEZUELA GUYANA
most other South American countries and covers over
3.3 million sq miles (8.5 million sq km), from the vast tropical
Amazon region in the north to the cooler, more European-
style South. It is divided into 26 states and one federal RORAIMA
Boa Vista
district – its political and administrative capital,
Caracaraí
Brasília. Brazil’s population, now reaching
almost 200 million, is mostly concentrated Nora Paraíso
Catrimani
in the Southeast (see pp18–19). Uaupés
Equator Negro
COLOMBIA Maraã
ECUADOR Itacoatiara
Guayaquil
Manaus
Tefé A ma zon
Iquitos
Tabatinga
Loja Novo
s
Aripuana
AMAZONAS
ru
Pu
Piura Barra do
Tarapoto Lábrea São Manuel
Boco do Humaitá Conceição
Acre
Trujillo Cruzeiro
Feijó
Porto
Velho
B R A
do Sul
J uruena
Pucallpa ACRE Ariquemes
Rio Branco Ji-Paraná
PERU RONDÔNIA
PA C I F I C Costa Vilhena
Lima Marques
OCEAN
Puno
BO LIVIA
Nuestra Seňora
de La Paz
Cochabamba
Santa Cruzde
de La Sierra
Greater Brasília
PARAGUAY
Parque Nacional
de Brasília Sobradinho
Represa Tropic of Capricorn

Santa Maria
Antofagasta
Asuncion
CHILE
San Miguel de
Paranoá Tucuman
BRASÍLIA
Cruzeiro Lago
Taguatinga
Guará
Paranoa
ARGENTINA
Núcleo
Bandeirante Cordoba
Aeroporto Int. Pres

Recanto Juscelino Kubitschek
Rosario
das Emas São Mendoza
Sebastião
0 km 10
Santiago Buenos Aires
0 miles 10
For keys to symbols see back flap

putting brazil on the Map  17
Central & South America Atlantic

NICARAGUA
Ocean
COSTA RICA
PANAMA VENEZUELA GUYANA
FRENCH
COLOMBIA
FRENCH SURINAME GUIANA
GUIANA ECUADOR
SURINAME
AT L A N T I C PERU BRAZIL
Asoenangka
AMAPÁ OCEAN BOLIVIA
PARAGUAY
Serra do CHILE
Navio Macapá
Equator See pp18–19
ARGENTINA
Porteira URUGUAY
n
zo
rá
a
Pa
Óbidos Am
do
Pa c i fi c
Monte Alegre Belém
o
Parintins Ocean
Ri
São
Santarém Luís
jó s
Ta p a
Itaituba Fortaleza
PARÁ Caxias
Imperatriz Timon Ilha Fernando
Marabá Teresina CEARÁ Mossoró de Noronha
Araras
Natal
MARANHÃO Juàzeiro
do Norte
Araguaína
PARAÍBA João
PIAUÍ
Z I L
Pessoa
PERNAMBUCO Recife
Cachimbo Petrolina
Palmas Juàzeiro
Alta Peixoto de Paulo
Floresta Azevedo Afonso Maceió
TOCANTINS
Sinop Barreiras Feira de Aracaju
Jacaré
Santana Alagoinhas
MATO BAHI A Salvador
GROSSO GOIÁS Jequié
Vitória da
Cuiabá Conquista
Ceilândia Ilhéus
Brasília
Várzea Rondonópolis Anápolis Gama
Grande Montes
Goiánia MINAS Claros
Rio GERAIS Teófilo
MATO GROSSO Verde Uberlândia Otôni
DO SUL Belo
ESPÍRITO AT L A N T I C
Campo Uberaba Horizonte SANTO
Grande São José do Ipatinga OCEAN
Rio Preto Vitória
Ribeirão
Preto Juiz Vila Velha
Araçatuba de Fora
Dourados
SÃO PAULO Campos dos Goitacazes
Ponta Porã Campinas São Gonçalo
Maringá Londrina
Rio de Tropic of Caprico
São Janeiro rn
Cascavel PARANÁ Paulo
Santos
Foz do Guarapuava Curitiba

Iguaçu Joinville
SANTA
CATARINA
Passo Fundo Florianópolis
Lajes
RIO GRANDE Criciúma Key

Caxias do Sul
DO SUL Highway
Urugu- Porto Alegre
aiana Major road
Bagé Minor road
Pelotas
Rio Grande 0 km 400 Railroad
URUGUAY 0 miles 400 International border

State border
Itumbiara Barragem de
Southeastern Brazil Araguari

Emborcação
Patrocínio
The densely populated southeastern part of Brazil Uberlândia
Represa
Ituiutaba
contains the country’s two biggest cities. A dynamic, Nova Ponte
sprawling business center, São Paulo has more than Araxá

12 million inhabitants in the city proper. Beautiful
Rio de Janeiro, with its legendary beaches, is home Uberaba
to around 5 million people. With a well-developed Parque Nacional da
Planura Serra da Canastra
infrastructure and economy, this region has a stunning
Franca
Atlantic coastline and a wealth of historic towns. São José do Barretos
Rio Preto
Ti e t São Sebastião
é do Paraíso
Bebedouro
MATO GROSSO Andradina
Araçatuba Catanduva Jaboticabal Ribeirão
DO SUL Valparaíso Birigüi Preto
Panorama Taquaritinga
Porto
Alegre Bataguaçu Presidente SÃO Lins
Araraquara
Aroeira Epitácio PAULO Piraçununga
Rio
Brilhante Presidente Jaú
Iv
Prudente
in
Teodoro Bauru Rio Claro

he
ná Sampaio
ima
Ivinheima Pa r a Limeira
n a p a n e ma São
ra
Piracicaba
Pa
Nova Londrina Porecatu Assis Manuel

Campinas
Loanda Ourinhos Botucatu
Avaré Jundiaí
Paranavaí Cornélio
Londrina Procópio
Porto
Camargo Maringá Arapongas Sorocaba
Apucarana
B R A Z I L Buri
Ti b a
Umuarama
va i Itapeva
g
Capão Bonito
I
Cianorte
í
Goio-Erê Telêmaco Itararé Juquiá

Guaíra
PARANÁ Borba Eldorado Peruíbe
Piraí do
Sul
Castro Iguape
Toledo Pitanga
Cascavel Ponta Grossa Cananéia
Prudentópolis Campo
Largo Ilha de Superagüi
Curitiba
Ilha do Mel
Represa Guarapuava Irati çu Paranaguá
ua
Salto Osório Ig
Foz do Iguaçu São José
Chopimzinho dos Pinhais Baía de Guaratuba
Guaratuba
União da
Pato Vitória São Francisco do Sul
Branco
Jaraguá Joinville
ARGENTINA Campo
Erê Caçador
do Sul
Xanxerê Blumenau Itajaí
SANTA
Chapecó Concórdia CATARINA Rio do Sul Brusque Porto Belo
Baía de Tijucas
Uruguai
Rio s Florianópolis
Campo Erechim das C a n ı a São José
Ilha de Santa
Santa Novo Lages Catarina
Rosa Palmeira Palhoça
das Missões
Antonio
Santa Prado
Barbara Passo Fundo Imbituba
Santo do Sul
Angelo Laguna
Vacaria Tubarão
RIO GRANDE Criciúma
Cruz Alta
DO SUL Flores da Cunha
Barragem Bento Gonçalves
Passo Real Caxias do Sul
Tupanciretã
Garibaldi
Gramado Torres
Lajeado
Jaguari Santa Novo Hamburgo
Maria Santa Cruz
do Sul
Jacuí Canoas
Cachoeira Viamão
do Sul Porto Alegre

PUTTING BRAZIL ON THE MAP  19
Itaúnas
Patos Governador Conceição da
de Minas Represa de Valadares Barra
TrÍs Marias Curvelo
ESPÍRITO
Ve l h a
Canastra
Coronel
SANTO
s
Sete
Lagoas Fabriciano Ipatinga
Pará de Itabira Linhares
Colatina
Minas
Belo Horizonte Caratinga
da
Aracruz
Nova Lima
Itaúna Serra
ra
Divinópolis
Se Vitória
r
Manhuaçu Vila Velha

Formiga Nariana
Passos Conselheiro
Campo Lafaiete Cachoeiro de Guarapari
Viçosa Itapemirim
MINAS Belo Tiradentes
Barbacena Muriaé Itapemirim
GERAIS Lavras
São João
Ubá
Itaperuna
del Rei
Alfenas Varginha Campos dos
Gr
São João da Barra

Goitacaze
ande
Três Corações
Poços
Juiz
de Fora RIO DE Santo Amaro
de Caldas Três Rios JANEIRO de Campos
Volta Teresópolis
Pouso Itajubá Redonda Petrópolis Macaé
Itapira Alegre
Cruzeiro Nova São Gonçalo
Lorena Iguaçu
Cabo Frio
São José dos Rio de Niterói
Campos Ilha Janeiro
Parati Grande Key
Jacareí
São Paulo Highway
Santo André
Ilhabela Major road
Santos
Railroad
São Vicente
Itanhaém International border
State border
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Rio de Janeiro Mileage chart

326
525 Vitória
276 327
444 526
Belo Horizonte 10 = Distance in miles
10 = Distance in kilometers
720 776 460
1160 1250 741 Brasília
1307 750 864 476

1669 1207 1391 1542 Salvador
1464 1174 1289 1381 523
2357 1890 2075 2223 842 Recife
1537 1247 1363 1452 586 78
2474 2007 2195 2338 944 125 João Pessoa
1763 1491 1590 1422 872 496 427

2838 2400 2559 2290 1403 799 688 Fortaleza
1898 1626 1724 1342 1006 995 1015 665

3055 2618 2776 2161 1620 1601 1635 1070 São Luís
2016 1904 1748 1326 1284 1270 1298 949 499 Belém
3246 3065 2814 2134 2068 2044 2090 1527 803
2164 2229 1906 1610 2568 2995 3068 3108 2692 2756 Porto Velho
3483 3588 3068 2592 4133 4821 4938 5002 4333 4436
716 1042 811 1048 1670 2098 2171 2422 2248 2274 2153 Florianópolis
1153 1678 1306 1687 2689 3377 3494 3858 3618 3661 3466
533 859 628 865 1487 1915 1987 2213 2051 2039 1964 192 Curitiba
858 1383 1011 1392 2394 3082 3199 3563 3302 3282 3161 310
0 km 100 266 595 364 630 1232 1642 1732 1953 1861 1843 1949 432 253 São Paulo
429 958 586 1015 1983 2643 2788 3144 2996 2967 3137 695 408
0 miles 100
A PORTRAIT OF BRAZIL  21
A PORTRAIT OF BRAZIL
Brazil evokes iconic images of lively Carnaval celebrations, brilliant soccer
teams, bossa nova and samba performances, sensual Brazilians swaying across
the sands of Ipanema and Copacabana, and the beautiful city of Rio de Janeiro.
Beyond these popular images, however, there remains a lot to discover about
Brazil, with its wide variety of landscapes and peoples.
Covering over half of South America, Brazil fabric of the country. Portuguese is spoken
is the world’s fifth-largest nation. The sheer by the vast majority of the 190 million
size of the country helps to explain the Brazilians, although there are many
extraordinary diversity of environments commonly used words derived from
and cultures. The larger cities are known indigenous and African languages.
for cosmopolitan sophistication and The country’s striking diversity is
extensive technological development, reflected in the major cities, each of which
while in the Amazon region there are has its own distinctive character. The
indigenous populations who have their impressive Modernist architecture of the
own traditions and cultures closely nation’s capital Brasília, the ravishing city-
linked to the rainforests. scape of Rio de Janeiro, embraced by the
The Portuguese colonization that began gigantic statue of Cristo Redentor (Christ
in the 1500s, combined with an estimated the Redeemer), the colonial buildings and
900,000 indigenous peoples, a large Baroque gems of Minas Gerais, the historic
number of descendents of slaves from cities of the Northeast, and the picturesque
Africa, and the influx of immigrants from a European-influenced, wine-producing
wide geographical and ethnic spectrum, towns in Southern Brazil, are just a few
has lent an eclectic character to the social examples of this remarkable heterogeneity.
An aerial view of high-rise concrete towers in the ultra-modern city of São Paulo
Carnival parade of samba dancers at the Sambódromo, held in Rio de Janeiro
(shantytowns) coexist with

skyscrapers in the cities. The
foundations for modern economic
prosperity were laid, ironically,
during the years of the military
dictatorship from 1964 to 1984,
when Brazil’s rulers borrowed
heavily from international banks
to fund various large projects.
However, it was only during the
administration of Fernando
Caiman and butterflies in the splendid Amazonian greenery Henrique Cardoso (1995–2002)
that Brazil’s economy became
The diverse character of Brazil is reflected more market-oriented, a trend that
in its five distinct ecosystems – the was carried forward by his successor,
Amazon rainforest, the semi-arid sertão, Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva – “Lula.”
the central cerrado (savanna), the wildlife- Today, Brazil’s major exports feature
rich Pantanal wetlands, and the lush Mata mainly primary commodities, such as soya
Atlântica. The varied natural attractions of beans and coffee, as well as some
the country include the spectacular falls at manufactured goods, including machinery
Foz do Iguaçu, captivating Amazônia, the and automobiles. Since 2003, Brazil has
splendid beaches of Rio de Janeiro and emerged as an economic powerhouse
the Northeast, the luxuriant grasslands of and a strong advocate of opening up
Rio Grande do Sul, the pristine-white sand global trade to developing nations. Its
dunes of Lençóis Maranhenses, and the vision of exploring new energy production
abundant, breathtaking flora and fauna of methods is manifested by Petrobras,
the Pantanal. Brazil’s largest oil-producing company. Run
by the state, Petrobras is a pioneer in the
The Economy development of advanced technology
The Brazilian economy is counted from deep-water oil production.
among the world’s 10 largest, though it Alongside Brazil’s growing global signifi-
is riddled with contradictions – favelas cance, there still remain deep economic
The verdant countryside near Bento Gonçalves, a wine-producing town in the Serra Gaúcha, Rio Grande do Sul
Petrobras (Petróleo Brasileiro), Brazil’s state-run gas and oil refinery, near Rio de Janeiro
disparities and regional differences. It is abuse of power. When the leftist, ex-trade
common to see the super-rich and the union leader Lula was elected president in
urban poor in Brazil’s major cities, mainly 2002, Brazilians hoped for a democracy
Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, two of the that favored the “majority of society,” as
largest metropolises in the world. promised in his Workers’ Party (Partido
Inequitous growth is also visible not only dos Trabalhadores – PT) manifesto, but
in the undeveloped interiors, but also in although a great many people were
the agriculture-dominated regions where removed from extreme poverty, there
there is a rising number of landless were large corruption scandals, and much
peasants and indigenous peoples who inequality still prevails. In 2011, Dilma
have been driven out of the rainforests. Rousseff, also of the PT, was inaugurated
as the country’s first female president.
Political Life Brazilians, for the most part, are united
Politicians have tremendous power in in their distrust and lack of respect for
Brazil, and many start and make
their way up through municipal
and state politics. Some political
positions outside of the capital
are extremely powerful in their
own right, especially that of
mayor of one of the big cities, or
governor of a state.
Since 1985, when the military
dictatorship came to an end,
Brazil has been one of the world’s
largest democracies. However,
the country’s political elite have
immersed Brazil in a series of
scandals, involving corruption,
misuse of public funds, and Supporters waving flags of Lula during his 2002 electoral campaign
culture and its people. The millions of

slaves brought to Brazil from West Africa,
between the 16th and 19th centuries,
have also played an important role in the
development of Brazil as a country and as
a vibrant culture. Between the 18th and
19th centuries, the influx of immigrants
from Europe, especially Italy and
Germany, and also from Japan and
Korea, have played their part in forming
the multicultural and ethnically diverse
population of Brazil.
Although Brazil has reputedly the world’s
largest Catholic population, its unique
mix of people has given rise to many
different religions and sects. The animistic
beliefs of the indigenous Brazilians,
ritualistic AfroBrazilian cults, and
spiritualist Kardecism, coexist with other
faiths including Judaism, Islam, and
The Congresso Nacional at dusk, Brasília Buddhism. Candomblé, a syncretic cult,
which originated in Salvador in Bahia, is a
their politicians and political parties. The unique amalgamation of Catholicism and
average educated Brazilian resents the African beliefs, practiced across Brazil.
perceived close alliance between the pol Brazil upholds the ideal of racial
iticians and their ambitious business allies. harmony. However, though not blatant,
racial discrimination does still exist, and
The People indigenous populations are under constant
Home to over half the population of South risk of losing land to plantations and
America, Brazil is the fifth most populous infrastructure projects. As well as having
country in the world. The vast majority of limited access to education and work
people live in the coastal parts and major opportunities, black people remain inade
cities, and the population density grows quately represented in the higher echelons
progressively scantier toward the interior. of politics, academia, and business.
Brazil has such a varied mix of races,
nationalities, and ethnic groups that
it is difficult to define a typical
Brazilian. It is often argued that
being Brazilian is more a state of
mind than anything else.
The Portuguese, the first
Europeans to explore Brazil, were
followed by other colonial powers
laying claim to areas along the
Brazilian coast. However brief the
influence of the French and the
Dutch, and later the British, they all
made their mark on Brazil, along
with the dominant Portuguese.
Their influence is still visible in its Baianas in front of the Convento de São Francisco, Salvador
Residents of Rio de Janeiro (Cariocas) playing soccer on Enseada de Botafogo
Sport & Culture Coelho, have helped spread the word about
Brazil’s sporting and cultural influence has their homeland. The music of Brazil, be it
made the “Brasil” brand known throughout samba, bossa nova, or one of the many
the world. Brazil is the world’s greatest other musical styles to be found across the
soccer (futebol)
futebol) nation, having won the
futebol country, has been a powerful calling card
World Cup on five since the 1960s. More recently, talented
occasions and having filmmakers have gone on to produce
been the only nation critically acclaimed works, including Walter
to play at every World Salles with Central do Brasil (Central Station,
Cup. Pelé (see p172), 1998), Fernando Meirelles with Cidade
hailed as a great de Deus (City of God, 2002), and Kleber
national hero, is the Mendonça Filho with Aquarius (2016).
most famous soccer Brazilians celebrate life with their colorful
player of all time. festivals. Carnaval, the cultural event that
Brazil’s sporting helped put Brazil on the map, is perceived
Ayrton Senna, winner prowess has not been as the biggest and best in the world, and
of the Monaco Grand Prix restricted to soccer. In its revelry embraces the whole country.
in 1992
Ayrton Senna, Nelson
Piquet, and Emerson Fittipaldi, it has had
three Formula 1 World Champions, and
in tennis it saw success in the 1950s and
1960s with Maria Esther Bueno and, more
recently, with Gustavo Kuerten.
Culture has also played its part in
establishing how the world views Brazil. The
first musicians to make a mark internation
ally were composer Heitor VillaLobos and
legendary performer Carmen Miranda. In
literature too, writers as different in their A group of musicians rehearsing Brazil’s country music sertanejo,
subject matter as Jorge Amado and Paulo in Cidade de Goiás
26  introdUCing BrAziL
The Landscapes of Brazil Key

The Amazon rainforest
Larger than the US (excluding Alaska) and bordering
The Pantanal
10 of the 12 other South American countries, Brazil is
home to a wide variety of breathtaking landscapes, The sertão
from vast swamps to desert, and thick rainforest to The cerrado
metropolitan cityscapes. Covering over 2 million sq Mata Atlântica
miles (3.5 million sq km) and embracing over 40 percent International border
of Brazilian territory, the Amazon rainforest is the most Peak

dominant landscape in Brazil and the best known.
Although massive and spectacular, the Amazon Basin
The Northern Highlands in
is only one biome out of several in Brazil, each with its
Amazônia are impressive mount-
own distinct scenery, fascinating wildlife, and climate. ains, strung along the frontier with
Venezuela and Guyana.
co
Bran
Píco da Nehlina
9,888 ft (3,013 m)
Tiquié
Negro
Japurá
Am
azonas
í
ta
Ju
á
ru
Ju
s
u ru
P
ra
ei
Tapajós
The Amazon rainforest (see pp264–5), one of the most ad
M
complex ecosystems in the world, is characterized by vast
expanses of dense forest, with a wide range of vegetation.
Large areas, such as the buriti palm-dominated igapós, are
annually flooded by the waters of the Rio Negro.
The Pantanal (see pp324–5), an immense

wetland, is the largest seasonally flooded area
on the planet, inundating as much as two-
thirds of its total area for half the year, during
the rainy season. Dotted with small, forested
elevations, the southern Pantanal is used for
cattle grazing during the dry season.
The Wet and the Dry Season

During the wet season, which lasts from
December to March, the rising rivers
inundate the flat land. This process
creates cordilhieras (isolated islands)
amid vast lakes and flowering shrubs.
However, it is during the dry season
(May to September), that wildlife is at
its most spectacular in the Pantanal.
During this time, the ponds teem
with fish, and thousands of birds flock The Pantanal in the wet season, The Pantanal with tiny forests in the
around the water holes. near Porto Jofre dry season
a portrait of brazil  27
The sertão (see p237) is a semi-arid

region in the interior of Brazil’s northeast
and parts of northern Minas Gerais. The
essentially barren landscape, dominated
by caatinga, is a uniquely Brazilian
habitat. The sertão receives very little
rainfall during the dry months, and is
largely strewn with cacti and thorny
shrubs. There are periods of intense
drought, which makes it a harsh
environment for wildlife and people
alike. As a result, much of the flora
and fauna have specially adapted
themselves to the lack of water.
0 kilometers 500
0 miles 500
J ar
i
Ilha de
Marajó
nas
Amazo
bu
Pará
ós
am
aj
ac
Tap
Tir
Serra da
do
ra
Xingu
r
Se
Ibiapaba
i
Irir
ia
co
gua
ncis
s
Fra
To c a n t i n
ão
Ara
s
iá
S
Serra Geral de Go
Co
rd
ill
er
a
Or
ie
n
ta
ço
l
Serra do Espinha
The cerrado (see pp300–1) features wide

expanses of open, tropical grassland scattered
aib with small, closed canopy forests. Brazil’s central
a
an
Par
ju
plateau is the world’s most biologically rich

de
ca
an
ra
ira
Grande savanna with over 10,000 plant species.

Gr
Ma
ue
tiq Píco da Bandeira

de
an 9,478 ft (2,889 m)
M
rra
ná
da
t
Se
Serra
en
ra
Pa
Parana p
pane ar
ma Esc
caba
napia
Para
de
a
rr
r
Ma
Se
do
ra
Ser
aí
gu
ru
U
Lagos dos
Patos
Mata Atlântica (see p113), or the
Atlantic rainforest, is a 4,600-mile
(7,400-km) coastal band
endowed with a stunning
diversity of landscapes, from the
granite peaks and sheer cliffs of
the Great Escarpment to the
beautiful white sands and surf of
the Costa do Sol.
Brazil’s Flora & Fauna

Home to over 55,000 plant species and three of the most div
erse ecosystems on the planet, the wealth of flora and fauna
in Brazil is unmatched. Some of the most valuable resources
of the modern world, such as rubber, originate from the
rainforests of the Amazon. As a result of the relative stability
of the rainforest compared to temperate areas, the fauna
here has had the freedom to evolve and to adapt to very
specialized local conditions. With a few of the tributaries of
the Amazon river still unexplored, there are numerous species
yet to be discovered. Brazil has five principal ecosystems,
each with its own distinct array of plant life. From forest and Aquatic plants, including the
swamp to desert and savanna, these stark contrasts in climate versatile water hyacinth, are
and landscape have resulted in an immensely vibrant and commonly found in the Pantanal,
diverse flora, much of which is unique to the country. which has the richest collection
of these plants.
Amazônia The Sertão

The Amazon rainforest (see p264–5) possesses The arid sertão (see p237), which comprises 75
a wealth of flora and fauna. It is characterized percent of the land area in the northeast, has
by vast expanses of dense forest, extensive its own unique wildlife including lizards, snakes,
savannas, and other ecosystems. Vegetation and foxes. Birdlife manages to flourish in this
and wildlife vary because of the annual flooding minimalist, unfriendly landscape, and sheep
of large areas. and goats are also reared.
Juazeiro, a shrub-
Blue and gold macaws are like tree indigenous
brilliantly colored large birds to the sertão, is used
that live on cliffs and high in wine-making and
in trees in rainforests and medicine, as a hair
swamps. They are considered tonic, and for timber.
an endangered species.
Mandacaru cactus is
Aguapé is an invasive a symbol of rebirth and
floating plant with resilience in the arid
medicinal properties. sertão. According to local
Found in the wetlands legend, this tree-like
of the Pantanal and cactus with fragrant
Amazônia, it acts as blossoms originates on
a natural water filter. the site of a massacre.
The Cerrado
The cerrado (see p300–1) is a vast open savanna dotted with
clusters of scattered woodlands. This is the world’s most
biologically rich grassland. There are over 4,000 endemic
plant species, as well as wolves and giant anteaters, whose
existence is theatened by the expansion of soya plantations.
Giant anteaters are commonly spotted in

The mutum, or crested Pequi, also known as souari the cerrado. These solitary animals have a
currasow, is a large bird nut, provides sweet berries long tail and tongue, a bristly brown coat,
which is often seen in with small thorns inside. It is and five short, sharp claws on both their
the forested areas of eaten fresh, used in food, and paws. They are sometimes hunted for
the cerrado. made into a liqueur. their meat.
The Mata Atlântica The Pantanal

The Mata Atlântica (see p113), or Atlantic The largest inland wetland (see pp324–5) on the
rainforest, is formed by remnants of Brazil’s planet is constantly abuzz with bird- and wildlife.
coastal rainforest. The development of cities and Hundreds of birds can be heard screeching
intensive agriculture has severely reduced this overhead or fishing in the waters while caimans
habitat, but it remains home to monkeys and bask along the river banks. The best time to visit
exotic birds. is the dry season.
The piaçava is The anaconda is a large
a fibrous palm water boa, which can grow to
tree. Its fibers are 32 ft (10 m) in length. It kills
extensively used to its prey, sometimes many
make brooms, thatch, times its size, by constriction
mats, and cord. as well as drowning.
Woolly spider The gravatá is a

monkeys are the member of the
largest primates Bromeliaceae family.
in the Americas. Gravatá (also known
This endangered as karatas) is a kind
species eats of fruit, similar to a
mainly fruits, pineapple, that grows
leaves, and seeds. on the ground.
Peoples of Brazil
When the Portuguese arrived in 1500, the Brazilian
population consisted of over 5 million indigenous people
divided into at least 1,000 communities. When their numbers
began depleting due to the severity of slavery and foreign
diseases, the Portuguese started shipping slaves from Africa
in the mid-16th century. Many of these slaves assimilated
with the white and local population. Over the centuries,
Brazil’s peoples were diversified further by several waves Indigenous Brazilians
of immigration from the Middle East, Asia, and Europe. also include the Ticuna
After over 500 years of immigration and integration, mod- community, who are a large
group with their own language
ern Brazil is a true ethnic mosaic, where diverse elements and written literature.
combine to create a vibrant nation renowned for its spirit.
Some indigenous groups (see pp266–7) continue to

live as they had done before the arrival of the Portuguese,
particularly in the forested interior.
Multiracial Brazil
Brazil is unique in its assimilation of various races and ethnic
groups. A white-and-indigenous Brazilian is called a mestiço,
an Afro-Brazilian is called a cafuzo, while a mulatto is born
of white and African parentage.
European immigrants (see pp332–3) started moving

to Brazil after slavery ended in 1888. They tended to The Portuguese, the dominant ethnic
concentrate in various parts of Southern Brazil, where group in Brazil today, introduced
people of Azorean, German, Italian, Slav, Dutch, Catholicism (see p38), and have given
Austrian, and other descents still thrive. the country its official language.
Mulattoes, born of black and white

parentage, make up at least half the popu-
lation. Prominent in music, sports, and the
arts, famous Brazilian mulattoes include
pop music icon Gilberto Gil (see p36) and
professional soccer player Ronaldo. Baianas are recognizable in their lace dresses with
colorful beads that represent the various orixás, or
Afro-Brazilian deities (see p181). Baianas play an integral
role in keeping alive the Afro-Brazilian traditions that
came to Brazil, especially in the slave ships from
Angola and Nigeria.
Japanese Brazilians (see p173) are mainly descended

from immigrants who came to Brazil around 1908 as
laborers. There are numerous Buddhist and Shinto
shrines around Brazil, and the Japanese influence can
be seen in the art scene and in the popularity of its
cuisine. São Paulo City’s Liberdade district is home to
the largest Japanese community outside of Japan.
Cariocas & Paulistanos

Residents of Brazil’s two largest cities,
Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, have
successfully stereotyped themselves
and each other. The fun-loving
Cariocas of Rio are seen as too easy-
going by the Paulistanos of São
Paulo, whom the Cariocas regard
as workaholics with no zest for life.
Paulistanos see their city as the
economic force driving Brazil, while
Rio is considered to be a playground
for Carnaval (see pp68–9). The self-
Cariocas frolicking on Copacabana beach, Rio City image of Cariocas is that they have
better music and more beautiful
people. The Paulistanos, on the other hand, take pride in their diligent nature and the distinct cadence
of their spoken Portuguese. The key difference really revolves around beach life. Rio’s long stretch of
trendy beaches forms a vital part of the city’s daily life (see pp42–3). The beaches around São Paulo, on
the other hand, demand the weekend to enjoy, being at least 40 miles (65 km) away from the city.
Architecture
The first buildings in Brazil were made by the indigenous
peoples. As these structures were made from perishable
materials, little is known of them beyond early European
descriptions. Colonial churches and other buildings were
in spectacular form in the 18th century during the Baroque
era. After independence, Brazil followed European trends
until architects such as Lúcio Costa and Oscar Niemeyer
developed Brazilian Modernism, most strikingly expressed
in the new capital Brasília. Today, Brazil is dominated by
high-rises punctuated by the occasional striking building
Avenida Atlântica at Copacabana beach,
by a contemporary architect such as Ruy Ohtake. Rio de Janeiro
Indigenous Dyed tree bark

Francisco de Orellana (1511–46), the first Open entrance
European to navigate the Amazon, described Sloping
large cities created by Curucirari people thatched
extending for as much as 6 miles (10 km) and roof
cut by large roads. These large cities no longer
exist. Today, traditional indigenous villages are Kayapó malocas, or ocas, are communal
smaller and focus on a large communal maloca. longhouses, usually measuring 92 ft (28 m) in length
Less traditional ones are made up of wattle- and 59 ft (18 m) in width. Their shape and design
and-daub houses. influenced many of Oscar Niemeyer’s buildings.
Baroque
Baroque architecture began in 17th-century
Europe but reached its most exuberant in Latin Elaborately
America. Brazilian Baroque is characterized by carved stone
elaborately carved, painted interiors and ornate, tablet
florid forms set in modest, whitewash-and-raw-
stone façades. The style found its zenith in
Salvador and Recife, and in the sculptures The
of Aleijadinho (see p135) in Minas Gerais. monumental
door, offset by
the modest
façade
São Francisco de Assis, in Salvador,

is a display of wealth and splendor. São Pedro dos Clérigos, in
The interior of the church is covered Recife, is rich in ornamental
with almost 900 lb (450 kg) of gold. flourishes typical of the
Silver, gold leaf, and solid gold are Baroque. Its second tower was
coupled with stunning azulejos, that left incomplete in order to
is blue Portuguese tile work. avoid a tax on churches.
Neo-Classical Frieze in
Typical Palladian
Neo-Classicism is associated with portico bas-relief
Imperial Brazil and came to the style
country with the Portuguese
monarchy who fled Napoleon in 1807,
bringing the most fashionable
European architectural ideas with
them. The first Neo-Classical buildings
were civic edifices in Rio de Janeiro Ionic The Museu Imperial, in Petrópolis, marked the
and palaces in Petrópolis. These column advent of the most popular form of Neo-
quickly became the norm for buildings Classicism. Its architect, Julius Köhler, was
of state in the rest of the Empire. influenced by the English Palladian style.
Eclectic Teatro Amazonas’s façade is rich

Eclecticism is an architectural style with forms, motifs, and details
associated with 19th-century Mock- selected from different
Republican Brazil. Like the styles Byzantine historical periods and
decorative architectural styles.
that preceded it, it was strongly
influenced by European trends, cupola
particularly French and English.
Neo-Classical
Eclecticism is characterized by
frieze
a combination of forms, motifs,
and styles from Neo-Classical and Windows
Baroque through to Manueline, fusing the
a style that fuses together in one Palladian style
building Portuguese Late Gothic with Brazilian
with ornamentation in portals, Baroque
windows, and arcades, along with
Oriental elements.
Modernist Le Corbusier canopy style

Modernism was shaped by architects such as Le
Corbusier and Max Bill. Brazilian architects at first
adhered to the strict precepts these Europeans
laid down, but from the 1940s, architects such
as Oscar Niemeyer developed a unique form of
Brazilian Modernism, influenced by indigenous
design and employing curved forms.
Brise-soleil
façade
The Ministry of Education, built
in Rio in 1943 with a striking glass
brise-soleil façade, was the first
Parliament buildings, in Brasília, are a harmony of Modernist building in the Americas
simple lines and curves incorporating water and to combine civic architecture
the landscape into the design. with a contemporary medium.
Contemporary Brazil Open-air Skye Bar Glass set windows

Beyond Brasília and Oscar
Niemeyer’s structures in Rio and
Curitiba, contemporary Brazilian
architecture is largely functional
and not particularly inspiring.
Cities are seas of identical tower-
block flats broken by snaking
highways. The most daring
designs tend to be private homes
hidden away behind high walls or
corporate buildings such as Ruy
Ohtake’s stunning Hotel Unique
(see p373) and Hotel Unique
Garden in São Paulo.
Concrete Pillars
Hotel Unique is a combination of bravado and functionalism.
supporting the hotel
Built by Ruy Ohtake, a leading figure in contemporary Brazilian
Landscaped Garden architecture, the inverted arc has 3-ft- (1-m-) wide windows
overlooking a stunning garden. The open-air rooftop bar has a
spectacular view over the city.
Brazilian Artists & Writers

Brazil’s first colonial artists and writers were religious, and a pastoral idylls of the Dutch
tradition of uniquely Brazilian ecclesiastical art continued artist Frans Post (1612–80)
into the 20th century. Secular art in Brazil ceased to derive and the formal portraits of the
Frenchman Jean-Baptiste
from Europe only in the 1920s after the emergence of the Debret (1768–1848).
antropofagismo movement, which appropriated western The first painting to make
themes into specifically Brazilian contexts. Brazil’s leading use of Brazil’s rich tropical light
19th-century authors include Joaquim Maria Machado de was Caipira Picando Fumo by
Assis and Euclides da Cunha. The explosion of Modernism in José Ferraz de Almeida Júnior
the early 20th century left Brazil with a diverse literary (1850–99). However, a truly
Brazilian style emerged only in
output, while the 21st century has seen the emergence of the 1920s with antropofagismo,
writers from Brazil’s diverse ethnic communities. a movement propagating
“cultural cannibalism,” which
adapts ideas from European
art and literature and reworks
them in Brazilian terms.
Tarsila do Amaral (1886–1973)
produced the movement’s
most representative paintings,
and was followed by Lasar
Segall (1891–1957) and
Anita Malfatti (1896–1964).
Other artists pursued
Modernism according to
their own ideas. Emiliano Di
Cavalcanti (1897–1976) turned
Ceiling painted by Dom Adelbert Gresnicht, Mosteiro São Bento, São Paulo to the masses for inspiration,
producing impressionistic,
in Rio, and José Joaquim da erotic icons of black Brazilian
Church Art Veiga Valle (1806–74) in Goiás. women. Candido Portinari
Brazil’s first great artists were In the 19th and 20th centuries, (1903–62), with a far more
European priests. Frei illusionism was largely lost but obvious social conscience,
Domingos da Conceição for the work of Benedito Calixto produced O Mestiço that
(1643–1718) was responsible (1853–1927) in Santos and showed the dignity of
for the interiors of the São São Paulo, and the Dutch artist Brazilian workers, while his
Bento monasteries in Rio and Adelbert Gresnicht, who painted Os Retirantes portrayed their
Olinda. Father Agostinho de the Beuronese interior of São misery. The sculptor Victor
Piedade (1580–1661) and Paulo’s Mosteiro São Bento. Brecheret (1894–1955) offered
18th-century Francisco Xavier a Brazilian take on Art Deco,
Brito, whose works can be while Alfredo Volpi (1896–
found in Rio de Janeiro and Secular Art 1988) brought Brazilian colors
Minas Gerais, introduced the Brazil’s first secular art was to abstract impressionism.
Baroque style, developing it European in theme and São Paulo’s large ethnic
as uniquely Brazilian. technique, best seen in the Japanese community
Brito almost certainly taught continues to produce artists,
the great artist, Aleijadinho such as Tomie Ohtake (b.1913),
(see p135), whose statuary who pay Brazilian homage
mocks the racist Portuguese to the styles and techniques
colonists, most notably at the of Japan.
basilica in Congonhas and the Brazil’s contemporary art
Igreja São Francisco in Ouro scene is lively and diverse.
Preto. The latter also preserves Most prominently, the works
the finest paintings by another of photographer Sebastião
subtle satiricist, Mestre (Manuel Salgado (b.1944) are rooted
da Costa) Athayde (1762–1830). in the ideas of Liberation
Illusionism in religious art was Theology (see p38). Artist Siron
developed by José Joaquim da Franco (b.1947) uses naive,
Rocha (1737–1807) in Salvador, Alfredo Volpi, painter known for his surreal forms to highlight social
Mestre Valentim (1750–1813) signature Brazilian palette and environmental issues.
Latin American novel of the 19th

Colonial Literature century. After independence in
European Jesuits are credited 1889, Machado de Assis’s social
with the earliest writing to criticisms were taken a step
come out of Brazil. José further by a generation of
Anchieta (1534–97) chronicled Republican novelists, influ
his work and described enced by scientific and nascent
the evangelization of the socialist ideas from Europe. In
indigenous people. The Triste fim de Policarpo Quaresma,
sermons of Antônio Vieira the black novelist, Afonso Lima
(1608–97) are fine examples Barreto (1881–1922), was openly
of Portuguese prose. critical of the corruption that
Gregório de Matos (1623– characterized the Republic.
96), who was born in Bahia, is Euclides da Cunha’s Os Sertões
sometimes cited as Brazil’s first chronicled a gory and disastrous
celebrated homegrown literary military campaign against
figure. During the 18th century, a messianic rebel, Antônio Grande Sertão exhibition, Museum of
poetry academies in Minas Conselheiro (see p210), and his Portuguese Language, São Paulo
Gerais were producing writers bandit followers in the harsh
such as Cláudio Manuel da landscape of the Bahian sertão. (1913–80), a seminal figure in the
Costa (1729–89), José Basílio contemporary Brazilian music
da Gama (1740–95), and Tomás scene, was the first to plough
Antônio Gonzaga (1744–1810). Modernism in Literature the furrow between music and
They introduced revolutionary Modernism proper began in literature by writing the lyrics
French ideas to Brazil and Brazil with Mário and Oswald of many famous songs. He has
wrote lyric and epic poems on de Andrade, who sought to since been followed by song
Brazilian themes, but in a lofty articulate contemporary and writer Chico Buarque (b.1944),
European classical style. uniquely Brazilian styles and who wrote the novel Budapest.
themes. Mário (1893–1945) Since 2000, writers from
traveled throughout the coun Brazil’s manifold ethnic
try, searching for a unifying communities have risen to
traditional culture which he prominence. In Relato de um
enunciated in his comic rhap Certo Oriente, Milton Hatoum
sody Macunaíma. Oswald (b.1952) probes the psyche
(1890–1953), together with of an Arab immigrant, while
his wife Tarsila do Amaral, Moacyr Scliar (b.1937) explores
formulated the ideas behind the JewishBrazilian experience
the antropofagismo cultural in his writings.
movement. The de Andrades Today, Brazilian fiction
cleared the way for the accounts for about half the
Modernist poets Carlos literary output of Latin America.
Drummond (1902–87) and Writers include Paulo Coelho
Legendary mulatto writer, Joaquim Maria Manuel Bandeira (1886–1968), (b.1947), feminist novelists
Machado de Assis and the greatest of all Brazilian such as Conceição Evaristo
writers, João Guimarães Rosa (b.1946) and Lygia Fagundes
(1908–67), whose grand meta Telles (b.1923), and Amazonian
The Empire & the physical novel, Grande Sertão: poet Aníbal Beça (b.1946).
Republic Veredas, invented a new syntax
Brazil began to find its own based on the isolated idioms of
voice in the last days of the the interior of Minas Gerais.
Empire with the great 19th A string of writers, including
century novelist, Joaquim Gilberto Freyre (1900–87),
Maria Machado de Assis (1839– Sérgio Buarque de Holanda
1908), who was of mixed black (1902–82), and Darcy Ribeiro
and Portuguese ancestry. (1922–97), emerged from the
Starting out with traditional social sciences. The 20th
sentimental romances, he later century also produced major
became celebrated for his popular novelists, including
darkly humorous novels with Jorge Amado (1902–2001),
their subversive social criticism. Carolina Maria de Jesus (1914–
Dom Casmurro is considered 77), and Clarice Lispector Leading 20th-century novelist,
by some to be the greatest (1920–77). Vinícius de Moraes Clarice Lispector
The Music of Brazil

The vibrant music of Brazil reflects the diversity of the cultural
and ethnic backgrounds that make up the country’s resident
population. The music mirrors the influences of both the native
and immigrant population. The rhythms of Africa are more
often than not the base on which the harmonies and melodies
introduced from Europe are built. Brazil is not about one
musical style, but a varied selection. Internationally, samba and
bossa nova are the best known of the country’s musical styles,
but regional forms, such as frevo (see p221), axé, forró (see
Heitor Villa-Lobos, one of Brazil’s
p240), and sertanejo (see p237), are just as popular within Brazil.
greatest classical composers
Samba
Derived from Angolan religious
rhythms, samba has permeated
virtually every other Brazilian musical
form that followed it. Historically
strong in Rio, São Paulo, and Bahia,
samba made a remarkable impact
throughout the country in the 1930s.
Samba comes in many forms, and
most of these have a link to dance.
Zeca Pagodinho,
who emerged in the
late 1980s, is one of
the most popular
and bestselling
samba stars.
Gilberto Gil went from

Clara Nunes was one of the most Brazilian superstar to
political exile before
prolific and popular samba singers becoming Minister of
of all time. Her career was tragically Culture in 2003. He
cut short when she died at the age remains an active
of 39 in 1983. musical force.
Bossa nova
Bossa nova, a marriage of Brazilian rhythms and American jazz, has
been the most exportable form of Brazilian music since international
audiences first discovered it through an album, Getz/Gilberto, recorded
by Stan Getz and João Gilberto in 1964. The album included a number
of compositions from a young and unknown composer from Rio,
Antônio Carlos (“Tom”) Jobim. Gilberto, Jobim, and Jobim’s lyricist,
Vinícius de Moraes, were to become the “Holy Trinity” of bossa nova.
Sergio Mendes and

his group, Brasil ’66,
Antônio Carlos Jobim was helped launch bossa
responsible for many of the nova globally in the
bossa nova classics including 1960s. They have rec
“The Girl From Ipanema,” one orded with acts such
of the most played and as Black Eyed Peas,
recorded songs in popular Erykah Badu, and
music history. Justin Timberlake.
Céu’s albums have

garnered praise
from both national
and international
critics since the late
2000s and have
earned a series of
awards, including
two Latin Grammys.
Caetano Veloso helped launch Chico Buarque is a

the tropicalismo movement in composer, lyricist, performer,
1967, and is considered a Brazilian and author. He is as popular
musical treasure.
today as when he first
performed in 1964.
Tropicalismo & Música Popular Brasileira
Tropicalismo was a form of Brazilian music that arose in the late
1960s from a mix of bossa nova, rock and roll, Bahia folk, and
African music. Many tropicalismo artists, led by Caetano Veloso
and Gilberto Gil, were driven by political activism following the
coup of 1964. Inspired in part by tropicalismo, música popular
Brasileira (MPB), or popular Brazilian music, includes many
Brazilian musical styles and is the most popular music played
on the radio and in the clubs and bars of Brazil.
Daniela Mercury burst

on to Bahia’s axé and
reggae music scene in
the 1990s. Her explosive
live performances have
won her a growing inter
national following.
Regional Music
Although MPB covers a multitude of
Brazilian musical genres, there are a
number of distinctive regional styles
that include axé, choro, forró, frevo,
and pagode. Bahia, one of the
powerhouses of regional Brazilian
Carlinhos Brown, a prolific music, has its own versions of jazz,
performer, composer, drummer, reggae, hip-hop, soul, funk, rock and
and dancer, is equally popular as a roll, heavy metal, electronica, and the
solo artist or when collaborating popular homegrown country and
with others. western style known as sertanejo.
The São Paulo Scene

São Paulo has produced some of Brazil’s most creative
and politically acute musicians. Since the late 2000s,
several Paulistano singers and songwriters have been
revolutionizing Brazilian music by blending afrobeat
with other genres such as pop, hiphop, jazz, techno,
and punk. Metá Metá, Criolo, Liniker, and Tássia Reis are
some of the most notable artists. Their creative influence
has reached worldwide acclaim with Elza Soares, whose
album A Mulher do Fim do Mundo (The Woman at the
End of the World) made it to The New York Times’ list of
the ten best albums of 2016. Elza Soares performing her contemporary style of Samba
Religions of Brazil
Few countries in the world can match Brazil for religious people, or the slaves from
diversity. A typical São Paulo or Rio neighborhood will Africa who replaced them.
be home to Catholic and Evangelical Protestant churches, Churches were divided along
strict social and racial lines.
Buddhist temples, synagogues, mosques, Spiritist
The poorest churches were
churches, Afro-Brazilian ceremonial centers, as well as reserved for AfroBrazilian
a range of smaller religious institutions. Evangelical slaves and were often
Protestantism is the fastest growing religion. The dedicated to the black
21st century has seen an increase in secularism, though Madonna, Nossa Senhora
this remains very much in the minority; those who do Rosário dos Pretos.
Latin American churches were
believe in nothing are still largely looked upon with a instrumental in influencing
mixture of incredulity and pity. Pope John XXIII and Pope Paul
VI’s groundbreaking Church
reforms of the mid1960s,
known as Vatican II, and
promoting a more egalitarian
Catholic Church throughout
the world. Vatican II led to the
most important movement in
the Catholic Church in the 20th
century, Liberation Theology.
Churches in Brazil today
are largely apolitical and
gregarious, and are increasingly
influenced by Evangelical
preaching and musical styles.
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos in São Paulo
oppressed. One of these

Catholicism factions was the Jesuits who,
Catholicism arrived with the while treating the indigenous
Portuguese, and Catholics people as objects of pro
remain Brazil’s dominant selytization, nonetheless
religious group. Brazil has the fought doggedly against their
largest number of Catholics enslavement and murder by
of any country in the world. the bandeirantes and other
From its earliest days, the settlers. The Jesuits began
Church in Brazil, as in most to be seen as a threat to
colonies, was divided into an the Portuguese Crown Evangelical Protestants at Igreja Universal
establishment linked to the and were expelled from do Reino, São Paulo
Crown (and later to the the colonies in 1757.
Emperor and the Republican The Church establishment
State) and factions who in Brazil did little to criticize the Evangelical
campaigned on behalf of the treatment of the indigenous Protestantism
The Evangelical movement
emphasizes the Protestant
Liberation Theology beliefs in the authority of the
In the 1970s, groups of Latin American Bible and of every person’s
Catholic thinkers preached what they right to interpret the Scriptures
called “a preferential option for the poor.” for themselves. Services are
In Brazil they were led by Leonardo Boff, emotive, with pastors making
Hélder Câmara, and Pedro Casaldaliga. use of fiery language, and
They campaigned against the rich often strongly encouraging
establishment and the dictatorships. Many their congregation to donate a
of the priests involved were murdered or dízimo (usually 10 percent of
Leonardo Boff presiding tortured and the movement was any monthly salary) to the
over a service suppressed by the established Church. Church. The movement has
been widely criticized.
Nonetheless, Evangelicalism is Consciousness are also popular

very popular in Brazil, so much in Brazil, though often as
so that in 2016, Rio elected alternative lifestyle options.
Marcelo Crivella, a bishop of an
international Evangelical
church, as its mayor. Afro-Brazilian Religions
West African religions came
to Brazil with slaves and deve
Spiritism loped into religions, such as
Developed by the Frenchman Candomblé (see( p181), Batuque,
Allan Kardec, Spiritism is a and Umbanda. Worship involves
systematization of divergent the invocation of orixás – spirits
19thcentury occult practices who intervene between humans Al Iman Ali Ibn Abi Taleb mosque
dealing with communication and Olorun, the supreme creator. in Curitiba
with the spirits of the dead. The Brazilian government legal
Kardec called Spiritism “a ized their practice in the mid
science which deals with the 19th century, but followers of Islam
nature, origin, and destiny of these religions are still some Brazil has the largest Islamic
Spirits, as well as their times discriminated against community in Latin America,
relationship with the corporeal and persecuted by the Church. but Islamic fundamentalism
world.” Brazil has the largest is almost unknown. The
number of Kardecian Spiritists community is private, con
of any country in the world. Indigenous Religions servative, and is generally more
Brazil is home to hundreds of concerned with preserving
different indigenous belief links to Lebanese and Syrian
systems. These can all be culture and the Arabic
loosely banded together as language than it is with
shamanism, which is not so proselytizing. The community
much a religion as a distinct has produced numerous
way of understanding reality. prolific writers and politicians.
Rather than believing that we
are made of material, indi
genous peoples believe that Judaism
Chagdud Khadro Ling temple in Tres material, time, and space itself Brazil’s Jewish community
Coroâs, Rio Grande do Sul are mere manifestations of has about 150,000 members,
a far deeper reality. Spiritual most of whom are con
life is organized in harmony centrated in São Paulo (which
Buddhism & Other with this inner state by a has the largest Ashkenazi
Asian Religions shaman. A number of popular synagogue on the continent),
The largest population of religious movements have Recife, and Rio de Janeiro.
ethnic Japanese in Latin grown up in Brazil from Many are descended from
America and immigrants indigenous roots. The most the Jews who fled Europe in
from many other East Asian widely practiced is Santo the 1930s. The community is
countries live in Brazil. Daime, which makes use of active in political and cultural
Consequently, there are large Amazonian psychotropic life. The writer Moacyr Scliar is
communities of Nichiren plants to achieve a state of one of the country’s successful
Daishonin Mahayana Buddhists superconsciousness. literary exports.
in the country. Their beliefs are
based on the teachings of a
13thcentury Japanese monk
who stressed the need to
elevate one’s state of life from
being trapped within the limits
of desires and instincts. The
method for achieving this is
through strong ethical practice
and the chanting of the Nam
MyohoRengeKyo mantra.
The movement has proved
especially successful at
bridging Brazil’s trenchant
class divide. Yoga and Krishna Santo Daime followers in Visconde de Mauá, Rio de Janeiro
Soccer in Brazil
In the first half of the 20th century, soccer went from being
the private sport of Brazil’s white European elite to becoming
the greatest symbol of nationhood. The game united all
sections of the population and, after the national team’s first
World Cup victory in 1958, brought about unprecedented
In a favela, the main leisure
national pride. The Brazilian way of playing futebol – with
activity for children is always
more emphasis on attacking, dribbling, and acrobatic ball soccer. Rough terrain helps them
skills – has become a benchmark for excellence, and is also develop trademark ball skills
known as jogo bonito, or “the beautiful game.” such as the dribble.
Charles Miller is the father

of Brazilian soccer. In 1894,
returning to the country
after attending boarding
school in Southampton, UK,
he brought two footballs, a
pump, and a rule book. The
first reported game took
place a few months later.
The 1938 national

soccer team received
a joyous welcome on
their return home
from France. Brazil,
which came third
after defeating
Czechoslovakia, had
also won the hearts
of the Europeans.
The 1950 World Cup was

hosted in Brazil. In the final
game, favorites Brazil only
needed a draw against The National Side
Uruguay to win the tourna
ment. However, they lost 2–1
With their iconic yellow shirts, the
in front of a record 200,000 Brazilian national team, known as the
crowd, causing the greatest Seleção, or Selection, is the most
moment of collective sport glamorous soccer team in the world.
ing tragedy in the country’s It is the only team to have taken part in
history. The 7–1 defeat to every World Cup and have won it more
Germany in the 2014 semi times than anyone – in 1958, 1962, 1970,
finals comes a close second. 1994, and 2002.
Brazilian Greats
Brazil has produced more soccer legends than any
other country and also the greatest player of all time:
Pelé (see p172). The first great player was Artur
Friedenreich in the 1910s. Each gener
generation reveals new
stars and the soccer factory shows no signs of stop-
ping. Since the inauguration
ration of FIFA’s (Fédération Inter
Inter- Leônidas da Silva, also Garrincha, the “Little
nationale de Football Association) World Player of the called “Rubber Man” for Bird,” was born with
Year award in 1991, only Brazil has won it with more his elasticity, was the bent legs and is con
than one player: Romário (1994), Ronaldo (1996, 1997, highest scorer in the sidered to be the finest
2002), Rivaldo (1999), and Ronaldinho (2004, 2005). 1938 World Cup. dribbler of all time.
Major Teams & Stadia

There are several hundred professional clubs in
Brazil. The number is impossible to calculate,
since local leagues are constantly changing and
teams shutting down and starting up. Brazil’s
best-known stadia are the Maracanã (see p88) in
Rio, which was built for the 1950 World Cup, and
the Morumbi in São Paulo.
The Dream Team of 1970 is considered the best
soccer team of all time. Their 4–1 victory against
Italy won them the World Cup for the third time.
Estádio do Maracanã in Rio de Janeiro, one of the largest

soccer stadia in the world
Brazil’s Biggest Clubs & Stadia
Sociedade Esportiva Palmeiras (1914)
Stadium: Allianz Parque, São Paulo
Capacity: 48,000
Cruzeiro Esporte Clube (1921)
Stadium: Mineirão, Belo Horizonte,
Minas Gerais
Capacity: 61,846
Clube de Regatas do Flamengo (1895)
Stadium: Gávea/Maracanã, Rio de Janeiro
Capacity: 15,000 (Gávea)/78,838 (Maracanã)
Fluminense Football Club (1902)
Stadium: Maracanã, Rio de Janeiro
Capacity: 78,838
Grêmio Foot-Ball Porto Alegrense (1903)
Stadium: Arena do Grêmio
Capacity: 60,540
São Paulo Futebol Clube (1930)
Stadium: Morumbi, São Paulo
Capacity: 72,000
Sport Club Corinthians Paulista (1910)
The torcidas, or soccer Stadium: Parque São Jorge/Pacaembu,
fans, have adapted São Paulo.
aspects of Carnaval to Capacity: 18,500 (P. São Jorge)/40,199
futebol, playing lively (Pacaembu)
music at stadia,
Club de Regatas Vasco da Gama (1898)
dressing up in team Stadium: São Januãrio, Rio de Janeiro.
colors, and bringing Capacity: 21,880
noisemakers, colorful
banners, and flags.
Pelé was a World Cup Sócrates, the 1982 Romário, the Ronaldo, with two
champion at 17, and and 1986 World Cup “Baixinho” (Shorty), was World Cup winner’s
scored a record- captain, was famous for the star player in the medals, broke the
breaking 1,283 goals in his back heels and his 1994 World Cup, won competition’s goal-
1,367 games. political beliefs. by Brazil. scoring record in 2006.
42  InTroducIng BrAzIl
Brazilian Beach Culture

The beach represents a big playground for Brazilians.
People living near Brazil’s extensive coastline go to the
beach daily to socialize and to eat and drink, while
vacationers can spend all day near the sand and warm
water. Brazilian music plays nonstop at the local beach
stalls and, as dusk falls, beachgoers party long into the
night. It is a Brazilian tradition to play soccer, beach
volleyball, and footvolley, or go for a walk or bike ride along
the beach or promenades. At some resorts, visitors can rent
a horse or a beach buggy, or practice surfing, kayaking,
Surfer at Praia Joaquina, Ilha de
paragliding, and skibunda (sandboarding). Santa Catarina
Urban Beaches are popular for their promenades

and cycle lanes, where people go to exercise before
or after work. Some beaches offer good facilities
with bathrooms, showers, and gym equipment,
and are illuminated at night for playing sports such
as soccer and footvolley.
Colorful Food
Stalls selling
coalho cheese,
corn-on-the-cob,
peanuts, and
shrimp sticks line
the beaches.
Popular local
drinks include Brazil’s Beaches can vary from calm bays to
fresh coconut unspoiled, wild beaches accessed only by tracks
water, cold beer, through the forest. There are also exclusive resort
and caipirinha. beaches with aquatic parks and modern facilities.
a portrait of brazil  43
Beach sports are very popular. Besides soccer and volleyball, people
play frescobol (a kind of tennis). Some beaches also offer paragliding
and delta-wings during holidays.
Umbrellas in bright
colors are rented for
a small amount or
lent by the food
Watersports, such as surfing,
stalls to their patrons.
windsurfing, kayaking, scuba
diving, and snorkeling, are
The canga, a popular throughout the year.
Brazilian sarong, is All equipment can be easily
worn to and from rented at the beach.
the beach, and also
used as a towel
to lie on.
Beach safety is monitored

by lifeguards on buggies
during holidays and at
weekends. Flags offer
advice on currents and
deep water. Asking locals
may be useful if there is
no patrol.
Locals on the Beach

Relaxed and spontaneous by nature, Brazilians carry
only the bare essentials with them to be free to walk,
swim, play, or just lie on a canga to tan and watch
the world go by.
Beach fashion
for women
popularly
features tiny
bikinis that
ensure the
smallest tan
line. The men,
on the other
hand, can be
seen wearing Beach parties, or luaus (moon parties), are kept
swimming alive all night by typical Brazilian dance music
trunks under such as forró (see p240) or axé. Electronic music
informal shorts. and live concerts are also played at these parties.
BRAZIL THROUGH
THE YEAR
Brazilians are a fun-loving people. In this festivals related to Catholicism and a
unique land of diverse ethnic groups and combination of syncretic traditions. The
races, there is a colorful and vibrant climate varies, but on average it stays
culture, which is celebrated in the warm, making it favorable to outdoor
numerous parties, carnivals, festivals, celebrations. The seasons are not so
rallies, and parades held through the year, perceptible, except in Southern and
but particularly in summer. The most Southeastern Brazil where temperatures
significant events include the spectacular are moderate in autumn and spring and
Carnaval and a series of popular religious dip sharply in winter.
October
Spring São Paulo International Film
As flowers begin to decorate Festival (2nd fortnight), São
2nd fortnight
the landscape, Brazil prepares Paulo. Lasting two weeks, the
to display its wealth of spring festival screens around 350
flowers and gears up for critically acclaimed films from
festivities that last through the more than 50 countries.
season. The most remarkable São Paulo Art Biennial (Oct–
spring celebrations are related Dec, even years), São Paulo.
to the Catholic religion, but The Parque do Ibirapuera is
the highly charged Brazilian the site of an amazing display
Grand Prix also generates of modern visual art.
great excitement. Círio de Nazaré (2nd Sun), Paying homage at Padre Cícero’s towering
Belém. Our Lady of Nazareth statue, Juazeiro do Norte
September procession follows the Romaria
Expoflora (Sep weekends), fluvial pilgrimage a day earlier. November
Holambra (São Paulo state). More Oktoberfest (mid-Oct),
mid-Oct
mid-Oct), Padre Cícero Pilgrimage
than 1,000 species of flora are for Blumenau (Santa Catarina). (Nov 2), Juazeiro do Norte
sale. Dutch folk dances, music, A lively street party, second only (Paraíba). On Dia de Finados
and Dutch and Brazilian food are to Munich’s, celebrates German (All Souls’ Day), thousands of
also featured, emphasizing the music, beer, and way of life. pilgrims visit patron saint Padre
town’s Dutch character. Brazilian Formula 1 Grand Prix Cícero’s statue and the church
International Fishing Festival (late Oct), São Paulo. Organized
late Oct where he is buried.
(2nd fortnight, but sometimes at Interlagos Circuit, the race is National Handicraft Fair (late
held in June), Cáceres (Mato usually the final round of the Nov/early Dec), Belo Horizonte.
Grosso). Listed by the Guinness Formula 1 season. A major exhibition and sale of
World Records as the biggest Recifolia (last week), Recife.
last week handicrafts from all over Brazil.
fishing tournament in the world, A lively carnival with crowds There are interactive work
the angling event attracts more dancing the whole week to shops where many of the
than 1,500 competitors. Bahian bands. crafts can be learnt.
Smoke rising from the wheels of a Ferrari competing in the Brazilian Grand Prix, São Paulo
BRAZIL THROUGH THE YEAR  45
Festas dos Ticumbi & Alardo

((Jan 19 & 20), Itaúnas. People
in colorful clothes pay
homage to São Bento and
São Sebastião to the strains
of traditional music.
Pré Cajú (end Jan), Aracaju.
One of the dozens of micaretas
(out-of-season Carnaval)
before the real Carnaval in
February/March.
Festa de São Lázaro (last Sun),
Salvador. A festival in honor of
Candomblé deity Omolu, the
God of Plague.
A spectacular display of Reveillon fireworks on Copacabana beach February

Pescadores do Rio Vermelho
January (Feb 2), Salvador. A procession
Summer Processão dos Navegantes of boats carrying offerings to
Summer is the most important ((Jan 1), Angra dos Reis. A samba Yemanjá, the Goddess of the
time of the year for Brazilians. It school percussion group parade Sea, accompanied by Afro-
marks the beginning of the year across the Baia de Ilha Grande Brazilian music.
and vacation time. It rains in boats of different shapes Nossa Senhora dos
heavily in most parts, but the and sizes. Navegantes (Feb 2), Porto
sun continues to shine through. Processão do Bom Jesus Alegre. A boat procession on
Besides a number of outdoor dos Navegantes ((Jan 1), the Rio Guaíba carrying the
events to mark the advent of Salvador. Hundreds of fishing image of Yemanjá.
summer, there are trade fairs boats follow a galliot, a long Carnaval (Feb/Mar, about
and important religious festivals. ship, that carries the image of Easter). The most
40 days before Easter
The culmination of the summer Our Lord of Navigators. famous Carnaval takes place
is Carnaval. Lavagem do Bonfim (2nd Thu), in the city of Rio de Janeiro.
Salvador. A colorful parade and Salvador and Olinda also have
December ceremonial washing (lavagem) fantastic celebrations.
Festa Santa Bárbara (Dec 4), of the steps of the Igreja de Festa Nacional da Uva
Salvador. A popular three-day Nossa Senhora do Bonfim. (Feb/Mar, biennial, even years),
Candomblé ceremony at Fonte Fest Verão Paraíba (early–mid- Caxias do Sul. Wine production
de Santa Bárbara. The image of Jan), João Pessoa. Taking place is the highlight of this festival
Santa Bárbara, syncretized in over three weeks, this is one that keeps alive the customs
Candomblé with Yansã or Oyá, of the country’s largest music and traditions of the early
is carried through the streets festivals, with big Brazilian acts. Italian immigrants.
of the historic center.
Carnatal (early Dec), Natal.
Out-of-season Carnaval,
where famous bands test their
repertoire for the next Carnaval,
with throngs of people
singing and dancing through
the streets.
São Silvestre Race (Dec 31),
São Paulo. Amateur and
recreational runners join
professional athletes for a
9-mile (15-km) race through
the streets of São Paulo.
Reveillon at Copacabana
(Dec 31), Rio de Janeiro.
A New Year’s Eve party along
Copacabana beach with
performances by leading pop
stars and a lavish midnight
fireworks display at Forte
de Copacabana and Windsor
Atlântica Hotel. Carnaval performers in striking costumes, Rio de Janeiro City
Festa Nacional da Maçã

(Apr/May
(Apr/May
Apr/May),), São Joaquim (Santa
Catarina). Exhibitions, musical
shows, and German folk
performances, as well as
bestowing of the “best apple
producer” title.
Hot-Air Balloon Festival
(Easter week), Torres. A spec-
Easter week
tacular annual hot-air balloon
event that ahs been held
since 1989. Other attractions
include a parachute display
and rodeo competition.
May
Hooded torchbearers at the Procissão do Fogaréu, Cidade de Goiás Festa do Bembé do Mercado
(approx May 13), Santo
Paixão de Cristo (Passion of Amaro. The festival marks the
Autumn Christ) is staged with over abolition of slavery in 1889.
In Southern Brazil and the 500 professional actors; the Traditional Bahian music and
Southeast, the autumn season audience also participates. In dance performances also
is marked by steady breezes the historic towns of Minas take place.
and comfortable temperatures. Gerais, crowds accompany Festa do Divino Espírito
Religious festivals, such as the religious processions. Santo (May/Jun, 45 days after
the Semana Santa and Festa São Paulo Fashion Week (late Easter), Pirenópolis & Alcântara.
Easter
do Divino Espírito Santo, Apr), São Paulo.
Mar/early Apr Mock battles between Moors
are celebrated with great Fashion shows featuring top and Christians are enacted.
involvement. The Hot-Air Brazilian models and fashion Forró and sertanejo parties
Balloon Festival is an designers are held (see p149). are held.
additional attraction. It also takes place in January.
March April Winter

International Book Biennial Procissão do Fogaréu (Wed With cooler climatic conditions,
(Mar/Apr),
Mar/Apr), São Paulo (even
Mar/Apr Friday), Cidade
before Good Friday the southern and southeastern
years) and Rio de Janeiro (odd de Goiás. The city glows with regions are attractive to visitors.
years). A 10-day fair marked by lights and the streets blaze Across Brazil, the festivities
book launches, interactive with torches during the begin in June, paving the way
author sessions, lectures, and solemn procession of the for international music and art
cultural performances. Semana Santa, when the festivals that are a huge draw.
Semana Santa (Mar/Apr),
Mar/Apr), across
Mar/Apr burial of Christ and the The GLBT (Gay, Lesbian,
Pernambuco & Minas Gerais. Resurrection are re-enacted Bisexual, and Transgender)
In Nova Jerusalém, the play to the sound of tambours. Parade is also significant.
Women in traditional dresses performing samba-da-roda at the Festa do Bembé do Mercado, Santo Amaro
BRAZIL THROUGH THE YEAR  47
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
Carnaval (Tue, 40 days
before Easter)
Good Friday (Mar/Apr)
Easter Sunday (Mar/Apr)
Tiradentes Day (Apr 21)
Labor Day (May 1)
Corpus Christi (Jun)
Independence Day
(Sept 7)
Our Lady of Aparecida
Day (Oct 12)
Elaborate headgears for the Festa do Bumba-meu-boi, São Luís
All Souls’ Day (Nov 2)
June July The Republic Proclamation
Day (Nov 15)
Festas Juninas (weekends through Festival de Inverno ((Jul 1–30),
June), across Southeast Brazil. Campos do Jordão (São Paulo). Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Homage is offered to St. Antony Begun in 1990, this is the
(Jun 13), St. John (Jun 24), and St. greatest festival of classical and concerts feature on the
Peter (Jun 29). The festivities that music in Latin America. versatile program list.
take place at the arraiá (imitations Festival Internacional da Festa do Peão de Boiadeiro
of old country villas) are marked Dança (2nd fortnight), Joinville
2nd fortnight (beginning on the 3rd Thu),
by traditional feasting. (Santa Catarina). Dance Barretos (São Paulo state). The
Festa do Pinhão (early Jun), performances, workshops, and world’s largest 10-day rodeo
Lages (Santa Catarina). competitions take place at one event receiving almost one
Celebrating the edible pinhão of the world’s largest dance million visitors every year.
(seed of the Paraná pine), festivals, featuring dance forms Concerts and food fairs.
the festival includes lively ranging from jazz and folk to Pinga Festival (3rd3rd weekend
weekend),
music performances. classical ballet. Paraty. Local cachaça samplings
LGBT Parade (early Jun), São Ilhabela Sailing Week (date (see p383), also known as pinga,
Paulo. Organized since 1997, the varies), Ilhabela. Known as the musical shows, and food stalls
parade is one of the biggest sailing capital, the island is offering regional delicacies.
events of its kind in the world. famed for competitive races International Festival of
Festa do Bumba-meu-boi (whole and regattas, organized by the Culture and Gastronomy
month), São Luís. Improvised Yacht Club de Ilhabela. (date varies), Tiradentes.
songs and dances by skilled Fortal (last week), Fortaleza.
last week A 10-day international
performers tell the story of the The country’s biggest micareta, gastronomic event with
death and resurrection of a bull. held at Cidade Fortal, draws workshops and exhibitions in
Festa do Boi Bumbá (Jun ( crowds with axé music and restaurants or at public squares
28–30), Parintins. In Amazonas, small schools of samba. all over the town.
Bumba-meu-boi is known as Boi
Bumbá. Two groups, Caprichoso August
(in blue) and Garantido (in red), Festa da Nossa Senhora das
compete inside a bumbódromo Neves ((Aug 5), João Pessoa.
built to hold 35,000 spectators. Street celebrations for 10 days
São João (Jun/Jul
(Jun/Jul
Jun/Jul),), Caruaru to mark the day of the city’s
& Campina Grande. Forró patroness, Our Lady of the
is the predominant rhythm Snow. The rhythm of frevo
at the dance festival, which defines the mood.
draws many leading performers. Festival de Gramado (2nd
International Puppet Theater week), Gramado. The most
week
Festival (Jun/Oct
(Jun/Oct
Jun/Oct),), Canela. important film awards event
Puppeteers perform in in Brazil offers viewers the
theaters, schools, and streets best in Brazilian and Latin
over four days. American cinema.
Rally dos Sertões (late Jun), Festa Literária Internacional
across Brazil. A 10-day event, de Paraty (FLIP) (early Aug),
when cars, truck pilots, and Paraty. An acclaimed literary
motorcycles drive 2,796 miles gathering of Brazilian and
(4,500 km) through Brazil’s international writers. Literary Taking the bull by the horns, Festa do
rough interior. reunions, plays, lectures, Peão de Boiadeiro, Barretos
48  INTrOducINg BrAzIl
The Climate of Brazil

Brazil’s climate, divided into four broad zones, varies greatly
from region to region. Amazônia is hot and humid all year Manaus and central
round, though parts experience a distinct dry season from Amazônia are
constantly humid, but
July to October. The central band of the country is also humid, experience a distinct
with a marked dry season, while the coastal areas enjoy dry season from July
to October.
pleasant tropical breezes and short seasonal downpours. High
temperatures and infrequent rainfall characterize the semi-
arid desert in the Northeast. In Southern Brazil, cool, wet
winters contrast with humid summers. Most of Brazil can
be visited at any time of the year, with the exception of
Boa Vista
the wetlands of the Pantanal during the rainy
season, and the extreme south of the country Macapá
during winter, when it can get very cold. Novo
Airāo
Parintins
Santarém
MAnAuS Manaus
Tefé
° C/F 33/91 31/88
30/85 32/89
23/73 23/73 24/75 24/75
Porto
Velho
Rio Branco Alta Floresta
4 8 7 4
hrs hrs hrs hrs
8/203 2/51 4/102 10/254

in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm
Southwest Amazônia
Amazônia,
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
lying near the Andes,
sees even more rain than Cuiabá
the northern parts.
rio BrAnCo The wetlands of the Campo

Pantanal are deluged by rain Grande
° C/F 33/91 33/91 34/93 33/91 Average monthly for most of the year, and
seasonal flooding is common
maximum temperature
21/70 21/70 from October to April.
20/68
17/62
Average monthly
Foz Do
minimum temperature The central highlands of Iguaçu
7 8 3
Santa Catarina occasionally
7 Average daily hours receive snow in winter.
hrs hrs hrs hrs
of sunshine
9/229 1/25 4/102 11/279
Average monthly Porto
Alegre
month Apr Jul Oct Jan rainfall
PorTo Alegre
Climate Zones
Humid: Heavy rainfall, ° C/F 31/88
high humidity.
25/77 24/75
Tropical: Distinct hot humid 20/68 21/70
and cold dry seasons. 16/61 15/59 The lowest
10/50 temperatures are in
Semi-arid: Hot weather
conditions, scanty rainfall. the far south of the
6 5 8
country, where
7
Humid subtropical: Cold winters are cold,
winter, year-round rainfall. hrs hrs hrs hrs
windy, and rainy.
4/102 4/102 3/76 11/279
0 kilometers 500 month Apr Jul Oct Jan
0 miles 500
brazil through the year  49
Trade winds from

the Atlantic bring BelÉm recife
moist air to
Amazônia, where
° C/F 31/88 32/90 32/90 31/88 ° C/F
there is heavy 31/88 30/86
27/81 29/84
precipitation all 23/73 22/71 22/71 23/73 23/73 21/70 23/73 25/77
year round.
4 9 8 5 8 6 9 7
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
12/304 6/152 3/76 12/304 8/203 10/254 1/25 2/51

in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
The semi-arid interior is

so hot and dry that there salvador
is often no winter here.
Belém
São Luís ° C/F
31/88 29/84
Fortaleza 26/79 28/82
23/73 21/70 22/72 23/73
Teresina
Natal The coastal region

in the northeast of
Joāo Pessoa the country receives 6 5 6 7
Recife almost year-round hrs hrs hrs hrs

sunshine and
Palmas 7/178 5/127 3/76 2/51
Maceió seasonal downpours.
Salvador
Brasília The high-altitude plateau

on which Brasília sits can BrasÍlia
Goiânia Porto Seguro
become quite cool, with
temperatures as low as 50° F
Diamantina (10° C ) in winter.
° C/F
29/84 27/81
28/82
26/79
Belo Horizonte
17/63 18/64 18/64
Vitória 13/55
Campinas Rio de
Janeiro
São Paulo 9 10 5 6
hrs hrs hrs hrs
Curítiba 3/76 0.4/10 3/76 5/127

Florianópolis
sÃo paulo rio de janeiro Belo horizonTe
° C/F ° C/F ° C/F

28/82 27/81 29/84 27/81 27/81 27/81
25/77 25/77 24/75 25/77 23/73 24/75
21/70 21/70 19/66
18/64 17/63 16/61 16/60 18/64
15/59 14/57
10/50 10/50
5 6 7 6 6 7 5 7 6 9 5 6
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
2/51 1/25 6/152 9/229 4/102 1/25 3/76 5/127 2/51 0.2/6 3/76 8/203
in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
INTRODUCING BRAZIL  51
THE HISTORY
OF BRAZIL
Very little is known about the history of Brazil before 1500, when Europeans first
traveled there. Archaeological remains, which consist mainly of pottery, suggest
a number of complex societies that were in existence long before the colonialists
arrived. After more than 300 years of Portuguese colonization, Brazil became a
republic in 1889. Long periods of totalitarian rule finally led to the return of
democracy in 1989. Democracy, however, has always been hard to maintain,
and Brazil’s history has been pervaded by coups d’état and dictatorships.
For over a millennium, before the European conquest were the Tupi-Guaraní
Europeans arrived in Brazil, Amazônia Indians. While they lived off slash-and-burn
had a vast network of sophisticated farming, the Tupinambá, another large
societies with populations of up to 100,000. group, cultivated crops, primarily maize.
The abundance of fish in the Amazon river
and its tributaries was almost certainly European Discovery
one of the main reasons for the wealth and The coastline was widely inhabited when
rapid growth of cultures in Amazônia. Spanish explorer Vicente Yáñez Pinzón
Up until the beginning of the 16th disembarked on the northeastern shore in
century, the middle Amazon region around Pernambuco, on January 26, 1500. He could
Santarém was an important center for not claim the newfound land for Spain, as
ceramic art and trading. It was home to he was officially limited by the Tordesillas
thousands of semi-settled indigenous meridian. The Treaty of Tordesillas, signed
people who grew maize and cassava, and in 1494 between Spain and Portugal,
had access to plentiful fish. Living on higher determined that all lands discovered west
land, up above the flood plain, as well as in of a meridian located 3 miles (5 km) west
longhouses along riverbanks, they left of the Cape Verde Islands would belong
important ceramic remains. Archaeological to Spain, and those to the east of this line
evidence from the earth mounds near could be claimed by Portugal. On April
Santarém and also on the Ilha de Marajó 23, 1500, Pedro Álvares Cabral landed in
(see p274) suggests that some of the shell southern Bahia, marking the Portuguese
mounds were part of these complex fishing arrival in Brazil. Portugal, which already
societies. The most widespread of the 1,000 controlled the Indian Ocean and the
semi-nomadic indigenous peoples that spice trade, bolstered its position as a
inhabited the territory at the time of the mercantile power rivaled only by Spain.
13,000 BC One of 1000 BC–AD 1000 Amazonian

the early hunting civilization, currently referred to AD 1000
communities Detail of rock as Patiti or Enin by archaeologists, Hierarchical
flourishes near Pedra painting, dating develops a crop irrigation system societies settled
Furada, in Piauí state from 2800 BC along the Amazon
20,000 BC 2000 BC 1000 BC AD 1 AD 1000
9500 BC Migration 2000 BC Shell-mound sediment in Rio de Janeiro AD 1500 Pedro Álvares Cabral
across the Pacific dated to this time is evidence of human activity of Portugal lands in Bahia
Ocean to mid-
Amazon region 3000 BC Prehistoric cultural developments AD 500–1300 Period of major
in Marajoara and Santarém have been dated growth and expansion of
to this time Marajoara culture
Detail of a meeting of Portuguese sailors and natives of Brazil, a 1592 line engraving by Theodor de Bry
The Portuguese Conquest

When the Portuguese reached Brazil in 1500, their period of
maritime expansion was at its peak. In 1501, Emperor Manuel I
ordered Amerigo Vespucci to explore the new territory further,
leading to the settlement of Guanabara Bay (Rio de Janeiro). In
1530, an expedition led by Martim Alfonso de Sousa resulted in the
first colonial towns – São Vicente and São Paulo. Preoccupied with
Africa and the Far East, Portugal neglected Brazil until 1532, when
João III divided the land into 15 captaincies. The early settlers mainly
comprised impoverished Portuguese peasants and nobles, who Armillary sphere, a globe used
were expected to explore and govern these captaincies. by early navigators
Manuel I (1469–1521)
An illuminated Portuguese
manuscript features the
royal coat of arms, as well
as armillary spheres
symbolizing Emperor
Manuel’s reign as a golden
age of exploration.
Priests also joined the

expedition, hoping to
spread Christianity in
the New World.
Cabral erected a cross

and held a Catholic
service to signify the
ownership of Brazil.
Pedro Álvares Cabral

The commander of the fleet sent to India by
Emperor Manuel I, Cabral landed at Porto Seguro
in southern Bahia on April 23, 1500. The
Portuguese navigator baptized the bay, where
they anchored for 10 days, Terra de Vera Cruz, or
“Land of the True Cross.” His onward voyage to
India was beset with calamities, and Cabral finally
drowned in a shipwreck a few months later.
Indigenous People meeting

the Portuguese
Initial Portuguese fleets were received
by friendly indigenous people. Gradually,
these confrontations and meetings
became more hostile in nature.
THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL  53
The Naming of Brazil

Officially, the land was named for pau-brasil
(Paubrasilia echinata), or brazil wood, a tree
yielding a valuable red dye. However, the
name “Brazil” appeared in the Irish legend of
St. Brendan as Hy Brazil (“Blessed Land” in
Gaelic). It became part of European maritime
folklore, designating a hypothetical land
located somewhere in the Atlantic. When
Cabral found a new land in that general area,
he may have identified it with Brendan’s Brazil.
Early Brazil map, showing a The tree might have been named after the
couple under brazil wood land, rather than the other way around. Botocudos Man
Still surviving in some
parts of Brazil, the
Botocudos were
huntergatherers.
Woodcut Showing
Tupinambá People
Ritually practicing
cannibalism, the Tupinambá
were some of the first
Brazilians to make contact
with the Portuguese. They
soon died from diseases car
ried by the Europeans, and
from the conditions of their
capture and enslavement.
João III (1502–57)

King João III ascended to the
throne while the Portuguese
Empire was at the height of its
mercantile and colonial power.
Unable to directly govern Brazil,
King João III divided the land into
15 capitanias, or captaincies.
Settlement was focused mainly
on the long coastline. Only São
Vicente and Pernambuco
immediately prospered. In 1548,
the king repossessed the
captaincies and brought Brazil
under his direct control.
A Jesuit Admonishing
Indigenous People
The influence of the Jesuits
accompanied this early period of
colonization. The first missionaries
had arrived in 1549 and acquired
great power in Brazil through their
Skilled captains
accompanied influence on the Portuguese
Cabral in his explor court. A zealous missionary
ations to discover movement began, aimed at
new territories. converting the local people.
54  introducing Brazil
engenhos (plantations) along the

northeastern coast soon became the
base of the Brazilian economy. Salvador
and Olinda emerged as key centers for
the sugar trade.
The hunting-gathering indigenous
people, however, were found to be
unsuitable slaves for the plantations.
They were better suited for the brazil
wood trade, and were made to log and
transport timber instead. From the 1550s,
Painting showing a group of indigenous Brazilian slaves at work the landowners turned to Africa, importing
in a sugar plantation millions of slaves.
Colonization & Expansion Colonial Wars

King João III conferred special colonial While the Portuguese Crown was still
privileges to the donatários, the aristocrats struggling to consolidate its hold on Brazil,
and minor gentry, who were expected to the Dutch and French forces continued to
develop and govern the capitanias on behalf encroach on its territories. In 1555, the
of the Crown. The donatários, however, met French had made inroads into the bay of
with adverse climatic conditions and hostile Guanabara, establishing their own colony,
indigenous people. Some of the capitanias French Antarctic. Portuguese forces seized
were attacked by the indigenous Brazilians. the colony in 1565, and founded a new city,
In 1549, the Crown was forced to send Tomé Rio de Janeiro.
de Sousa as the first governor, who was Throughout the first half of the 17th
assigned the task of protecting the few century, French and Dutch privateers
remaining captaincies. continued to plunder the coastal cities.
With a powerful fleet, the Dutch offered
Sugar & the Slave Trade
Introduced to Brazil in 1532, sugar replaced
the country’s first major export, brazil wood,
which was nearly wiped out as a result of
over-exploitation. Setting up his capital in
Salvador, Tomé de Sousa enlisted the
support of the Jesuits. The indigenous
people who did not convert to Christianity
were enslaved and sent to work in sugar
plantations. As a result of the high demand African slaves in a sugar mill, using an early form of grinder for
for sugar in Europe, sugar cane grown in refining sugar
1550 African
1532 King João III slaves shipped to 1572 Construction of
divides the land into Brazil to work Salvador’s Catholic 1630 The Dutch
15 capitanias sugar plantations cathedral completed Slave ship occupy Olinda
1500 1550 1600 1650
1624 The Dutch

1554 Jesuits 1565 French capture Salvador,
1532 Sugar cane is 1549 Salvador found São Paulo Antarctic destroyed laying the city to
introduced to Brazil founded by and Rio de siege for the next
Tomé de Sousa Janeiro founded nine months
the history of Brazil  55
An engraving depicting naval combat between French and Portuguese ships off the coast of Brazil
a greater challenge. In 1624, the Dutch further development and expansion of the
captured Salvador and laid siege to the city, country’s interior. Traffic to São Paulo and
until the combined fleet of the Portuguese Rio de Janeiro rapidly increased and new
and Spanish expelled them. The Dutch communities drew people away from the
occupied Olinda in 1630 and, by 1641, Northeast coast. The focus of power in
controlled a vast stretch of coastline, ending Brazil moved from the Northeast to the
Portugal’s monopoly of the sugar trade. Southeast, and Rio de Janeiro was made
During 1648 and 1649, two battles were the new capital in 1763.
fought at Guararapes, in Pernambuco, where
the Dutch were routed and their territory Struggle for Independence
reduced to an enclave around Recife. The gold rush lasted not more than 70
Following several years of open warfare, years. The decline of gold in the 18th
the Dutch formally withdrew in 1661. century led to high taxes, as Brazil was
forced to meet the quota set by the Crown
The Discovery of Gold for the minimum annual gold production.
The decline of the sugar industry coincided This, coupled with the Brazilian resentment
with the discovery of gold. In 1695, gold at their exclusion from administration and
was first discovered in Sabara, Minas Gerais, the Portuguese dominance of foreign trade,
by the bandeirantes (paramilitary adven culminated in the 1789 Inconfidência
turers), who faced grueling conditions as Mineira rebellion. Led by Tiradentes (see
they pressed inland toward the Andean pp130–31), who was eventually executed,
foothills. Gold was also found in Cuiabá, the uprising was aimed at Brazilian
Mato Grosso, in 1719. Both events led to independence from Portuguese rule.
1789 Inconfidência
1661 The Dutch formally 1763 Rio de Janeiro Mineira uprising is
withdraw from 1719 Gold discovered made the new quelled, and the leader,
Portuguese territories in Cuiabá, Mato Grosso capital city of Brazil Tiradentes, is hanged
1700 1750 1800
1695 Gold discovered

in Sabará, Minas Gerais
Portrait of Tiradentes
Provincial Unrest
Dom Pedro I was forced to abdicate in favor
of his five-year-old son, Dom Pedro II. From
1831 to 1840, three appointed regents
ruled the country in the young Emperor’s
name, during a period of turmoil in which
local factions struggled to gain control of
their provinces and to keep the masses in
line. The regency in Rio de Janeiro gave
Dom Pedro proclaiming “Independéncia ou Morte!” at the Rio considerable power to the provinces in
Ipiranga, on September 7, 1822 1834, when Brazil became a federation of
locally autonomous regional powers, with
The First Emperor of Brazil loose allegiance to the center. The rebel-
The advance of French Emperor Napoleon, lions, riots, and popular movements that
in 1808, forced King Dom João VI, who marked these years did not spring from
was ruling from Lisbon, to relocate his economic misery, but from attempts to
government to Brazil. In 1821, the royal family share in the prosperity stemming from the
were forced to return to deal with rebels back North Atlantic demand for Brazil’s exports.
home. Dom João’s son, the Prince Regent,
who had stayed back in Brazil, proclaimed The Coffee Industry
independence from Portugal on September Coffee, which was introduced to Brazil in the
7, 1822. In a famous scene at the Rio Ipiranga, early 1800s, filled the void left by the collapse
he tore the Portuguese insignia from his of the sugar industry and the waning gold
uniform, drew his sword, and declared, rush. An army officer, Francisco de Mello,
“Independência ou Morte!” (Independence
or Death). Three months later, he crowned
himself Emperor Dom Pedro I.
Although the assumption of
independence had been easy, Dom
Pedro soon realized that organizing
the new government was riddled with
challenges. His own autocratic nature
proved to be the biggest hurdle in winning
the confidence of his subjects. The new
consitution he proposed based on his own
unlimited power, was strongly opposed by
the assembly. When Dom Pedro dismissed
his assembly in 1831, demonstrators A formal portrait of Brazil’s Emperor Dom Pedro II (1825–91),
demanded its reinstatement. depicting him in full regalia
Dom Pedro I
1808 Napoleon’s 1842
advance forces Dom 1825 Britain and Portugal 1837–38 The Rebellions in
João to flee Portugal, sign a treaty recognizing Sabinada Rebellion Minas Gerais
and relocate to Brazil Brazilian independence in Salvador and São Paulo
1810 1820 1830 1840
1834 Brazil
1822 The Prince Regent 1831 Pedro dismisses the becomes a 1838–41 The
proclaims independence from Constituent Assembly federation of Balaiada Rebellion
Portugal, crowning himself after a draft constitution autonomous in Maranhão
Emperor Dom Pedro I is proposed regional powers
was believed to have brought the

first coffee beans into Brazil, from
his journey to French Guiana. The
coffee industry began to flourish,
mainly in Minas Gerais and São
Paulo. Expanding coffee production
in the 1850s and 1860s attracted
British investment in railroads to
speed transport of the beans to the
coast. The coastal Santos–São Paulo The Surrender of Uruguaiana, painted during the war
railroad (1868) was followed by a The War of the Triple Alliance
series of railroads that linked the From 1864 to 1870, Paraguay and the allied countries of
northeastern coast to the interior. Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay fought one of the bloodiest
conflicts on the American continent. Also known as the
Slavery Abolished Paraguayan War, it has been widely attributed to the
expansionist ambitions of Paraguayan dictator Francisco
As coffee exports rose steadily, so Solano Lopez, and the Brazilian and Argentinian meddling
did the numbers of imported slaves. in internal Uruguayan politics. The outcome of the war was
the devastating defeat of Paraguay by the Triple Alliance,
In Rio de Janeiro alone, they soared but at the cost of over 100,000 casualties.
from around 26,000 in 1825 to
44,000 in 1828. While slave owners
argued that slavery was not demoralizing, clandestine landings stopped, ending the
others were in favor of replacing slavery transatlantic trade. In 1871, the cabinet in
with free European immigrant labor. Rio Branco approved a law freeing
Eventually, a contract system newborn slaves and requiring
that was little better than masters to care for them
slavery was established until they were eight
by the parliament. New years old. By the 1880s,
laws and decrees, the slave population
unacceptable to slave was reduced to half its
owners, were simply size. In 1888, the
not enforced, such as Golden Law was passed,
the 1829 order forbidding finally abolishing slavery.
slave ships to sail for Africa, However, African-Brazilians
which caused regional slave An 1857 portrayal of black slaves still had no property or
rebellions throughout the on a plantation education and struggled to find
19th century. In 1850, British work after a mass of European
and domestic pressure finally forced the immigrants replaced their labor. The
Brazilian government to outlaw the African detrimental legacy of slavery is manifest
slave trade. Over the next five years, even to this day in racial inequality.
Lady being served and fanned by a black slave

1850 British and domestic
pressure force the Brazilian 1875–87 Approximately 1888 The Golden
government to outlaw 156,000 immigrants Law passed, ending
slave trade arrive in São Paulo slavery in Brazil
1850 1860 1870 1880
1864–70 The War of the 1871 The Rio Branco

Triple Alliance cabinet enacts a law, 1884 Slaves over
ensuring the well- 60 years old
1868 Completion of the being of children emancipated
Santos–São Paulo railroad born to slaves
The First Republic the local oligarchies, or

In 1889, the monarchy was patrias. The constitutional
overthrown by a military coup, system was offset by the
which was led by Marechal coronelismo, or the real
Deodoro da Fonseca and system of unwritten
supported by Brazil’s coffee agreements among these
barons. Dom Pedro II was exiled in local white male bosses,
Paris, where he died two years by which local oligarchies
later. A republic was born, with chose the state governors,
Deodoro as the first president. The who in turn selected
Constituent Assembly that drew the president.
up the 1891 constitution was a The informal
confrontation between the São The funeral of King Dom Pedro II in Paris, distribution of power
Paulo coffee oligarchy that sought reported in a French journal emerged as the result
to limit executive power and the of armed struggles
radical authoritarians who wanted to expand and bargaining. In order to check the
presidential authority. The growing opposi nationalizing tendencies of the army, the
tion culminated in a navy revolt, forcing oligarchic republic strengthened the navy
Deodoro to step down only a few months and police, turning them into small armies
later. It was recognized that the central gov in the larger states.
ernment could exercise control only through
The Struggle For Modernization
At the turn of the 19th century, Brazil
lacked an integrated economy. Domestic
consumption was largely neglected, and the
middle class was not yet active in political
life. The economy was organized around
large agricultural estates, or latifundia. Brazil
had lost its sugar market to Caribbean
Scooping coffee beans for shipment after drying, on a São producers, while the rubber boom in
Paulo plantation Amazônia was beginning to lose its
“Café Com Leite” Republic primacy to more efficient Southeast Asian
The early years of the republic were called plantations. The outbreak of World War I was
café com leite (coffee and milk) by its opponents. the turning point for the dynamic urban
Brazilian politics was dominated by an oligarchy sectors. Industrial production doubled, and
that comprised São Paulo coffee barons and
Minas Gerais cattle ranchers. These groups agricultural diversity received an impetus, as
controlled electoral politics, and the presidency the growing demand by the Allies for staple
alternated between the two wealthy states of
coffee and milk.
products sparked a new boom for goods
other than sugar and coffee. The old order
1889 Military officers 1897 Belo 1916 A civil statute

rebel against Dom Horizonte founded formally enshrines
Pedro II, establishing in Minas Gerais, as hierarchical and patri
a republic Brazil’s first modern archal view of family
planned city Train station, and sexual relations
Belo Horizonte
1890 1900 1910 1920
1891 The first

president of 1896 Teatro 1902 Euclides da 1908 The first 1915 Southeast Asian
Brazil, Deodoro Amazonas (see Cunha writes Os Japanese immigrants rubber elbows out Brazil
Fonseca, ousted pp286–7) opens Sertões (see p210) arrive in Santarém from the market
by a navy revolt in Manaus
gave way to the political former had once enjoyed

aspirations of the Vargas’s support, but later
new urban groups – turned against him when
government, white-collar they realized that creating a
workers, prof
professionals, strictly fascist state was not
bankers, merchants, and on his agenda. They were
industrialists. Increasing bidding to seize power in
support for industrial the 1938 election, which the
protectionism marked Brazilian army confronts rebels during the Constitution barred Vargas
Brazilian politics in the 1930 coup from contesting. Months
1920s. Disparate social before the election, Vargas
reform movements cropped up during declared a state of emergency to avert an
this period. Between 1922 and 1926, alleged communist plot. He dissolved the
junior military officers staged a revolt Constitution and established the Estado
against the landed elite, demanding Novo (New State), which used repressive
socio-economic modernization. political tactics and rejected free-market
liberal capitalism. Vargas’s promise of a
The New State “postwar era of liberty” could not save the
A bloodless coup by the military installed fall of the Estado Novo in 1945, when he
Getúlio Vargas as provisional president in was ousted by General Eurico Dutra. His
1930. Between the World Wars, he built a return as elected president in 1951 was
corporatist, centralized state along fascist marred by inflation, corruption, and a
lines, although he did advocate some liberal political scandal involving an attack on a
reforms. The collapse of the old order had journalist by the president’s bodyguard.
created a vacuum, which was filled by the Faced with the ultimatum to resign, Vargas
fascist Integralistas and communists. The ended his life in 1954 by shooting himself.
Citizens of Rio de Janeiro welcoming rebel troops upon the success of the 1930 coup
Poster, World Cup, 1950

1932 Young army 1938 Vargas
officers lead their units establishes the 1950 World Cup 1954 Vargas commits
against the old order in Estado Novo, or soccer held in suicide with a bullet to
Minas Gerais and Rio the “New State” Brazil the heart
1930 1940 1950
1937 Vargas assumes

1930 A military coup dictatorial powers 1945 The Estado 1950 Vargas
installs Getúlio Vargas as under a new Novo collapses, re-elected president
provisional president constitution Eurico Dutra
comes to power
The Vargas Era (1930–54)

Spanning the creation of Brazil as a modern nation-state,
the long political career of Getúlio Vargas exemplifies the
various contradictions at the heart of the Brazilian national
character. His rise to power in 1930 marked the resurgence
of a generation of young, dynamic administrators, but also
the start of an authoritarian rule. During his first term, he
assumed absolute power to overthrow the old order, Getúlio Dornelles Vargas
founded the Estado Novo, and passed labor-protection laws A proindustry nationalist and
virulent anticommunist, Vargas
to gain popular support. Forced to step down after World
possessed an authoritarian streak.
War II, he remained popular and was re-elected in 1950. The hero of the newly emerged
urban working class, he favored
capitalism and liberal reforms to
some extent.
Crowd Cheering Vargas’s Victory

A bloodless coup in 1930 ended the reign of
President Washington Luis, and brought Vargas
into power.
Nationalized Fascism
Exploiting communist paranoia, Vargas assumed
dictatorship in 1937, abolishing opposition parties
and imposing censorship. He tolerated anti-
Semitism, initially encouraging the fascist
Integralistas (see p59) until they decided to
contest the elections against him in 1938.
Vargas,
diminutive in
stature, emu
lated Hitler
and Mussolini
in some ways.
Ties with Mussolini Integralistas in Rio de Janeiro, 1938

In January 1931, 11 Italian aircraft, A group of Integralistas led a shortlived revolt against the
one of them piloted by Mussolini’s corrupt Vargas regime. They attacked the Palácio Guanabara,
son, were received in Brazil with and made a bid for Vargas’s life, but government forces
great applause. promptly suppressed the uprising.
Carmen Miranda 1950 World Cup

(1909–55) Brazil was confident of winning the World Cup in the first tournament
During the Vargas era, the to be held after World War II. The final was played on home ground
Portuguese-Brazilian singer- at Rio’s Estádio Maracanã. However, in a surprise victory, Uruguay
actress charmed post-World defeated Brazil 2–1. With slighted pride, the humiliated nation
War USA and the world. plunged into mourning.
New Ministry of Education

Vargas was responsible for the erection of a
sky-scraping new Ministry of Education, whose
cutting-edge design was emphasized by its
incongruous location behind a colonial church
in Rio de Janeiro.
Toward the Future Daily Life

Vargas recognized that Brazil’s strength lay in its Under Vargas’s rule, modern tramways were
vast natural resources. He created Petrobras, constructed to carry white-collar employees
the state oil company, and invested in road and to their various offices in the capital city of
air transport. Rio de Janeiro.
manifestation of Kubitschek’s nationalistic

aspirations was the creation of Brasília
(see pp298–9) as the new capital of Brazil.
Despite instilling national confidence,
Kubitschek’s era was also beset with
massive inflation. Also, the influx of foreign
capital rapidly captured domestic industry,
and the urban bourgeoisie found state
control threatening rather than protective.
Mild structural reforms took place under
President João Goulart (1961–64), but
corporate elites demonstrated their intol
erance towards any form of social welfare
and sponsored a military coup in 1964.
The Era of Military Rule

A period of rightwing military dictatorship
followed. In a bid to appease the hard
President Juscelino Kubitschek on the cover of Time magazine liners, the new president, Marshal
dated January 13, 1970 Humberto Castelo Branco, recessed and
purged Congress, and decreed the
Into Modernity expansion of the president’s powers at
The reign of Juscelino Kubitschek, Vargas’s the expense of the legislature and the
successor, lasted from 1956 to 1961, judiciary. His gamble curbed the populist
ushering Brazil into modernity. left, but gave his successor, Artur da Costa
Campaigning on a platform of “Fifty years e Silva (1967–69), a basis for authoritarian
of progress in five,” Kubitschek tried to rule. Despite their victory, the hardliners
achieve this progress with were still unable to
generous incentives for institutionalize their
foreign investors, such as agenda politically. They
low taxes, privileges for did not give up their
the importation of liberal constitutionalism
machinery, and donations as they feared damage
of land. All this gave to their alliance with the
impetus to the economic US, the citadel of anti
growth rate, which paved communism. In 1969,
the way for the economic the democratic mask fell
boom in the next decade. Trans-Amazon Highway construction near Altamira off when General Médici
The most notable Brazil, July 1971 came to power and
1977 Dona Flor and Her 1985 Civilian

1960 Brasília 1970 Brazil wins Two Husbands brings 1979 General Tancredo Neves
inaugurated as the the soccer World international fame to Figueiredo is sworn is elected to
new capital of Brazil Cup in Mexico Brazilian cinema in as president presidency
1960 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985
1961 Janio Quadros 1974 Ernesto 1980 Film Bye Bye 1984 Benedita da
elected president, Geisel’s rule Brasil brings more Silva becomes the
replaced by João begins, marking a recognition to first black woman
Goulart in the same year slow return to Brazilian cinema in Congress
democracy
Jules Rimet trophy
continued to rule an 53 percent of the vote. The

authoritarian regime without democratization of the
popular support. An extremely government was visible in the
oppressive government impeachment of the corrupt
apparatus hounded and de Mello regime, forcing him
tortured political opponents. to resign in 1992. The 1994
Yet the Médici administration elections brought to power
cloaked itself in the green and Fernando Henrique Cardoso,
gold flag when Brazil won the Former President Dilma Roussef, who who served two terms but
Jules Rimet trophy for its third was removed fom office in 2016 failed to match the growth of
consecutive victory in the the country’s wealth and power
soccer World Cup in 1970. From 1968 to with better living conditions. Socio-economic
1974, during the darkest days of dictatorship, contradictions helped usher in Lula da Silva
the military-civil alliance took shape as the in 2002 as Brazil’s first elected left-wing
economy boomed, reaching annual GDP president. His Workers’ Party (Partido dos
growth rates of 12 percent. During this Trabalhadores – PT) government managed
period, the Trans-Amazon Highway was to raise 40 million Brazilians out of poverty
built, and the Rio Paraná was dammed. while appeasing the wealthy with invest-
Geisel’s accession in 1974 signaled a move ments in housing and infrastructure, a trend
toward democratic rule. He attempted to followed by his successor, Dilma Rousseff,
restrain the growing strength of the opposi- elected in 2011 and 2015. Her second term
tion parties by creating an electoral college was troubled by an economic crisis, and she
that would approve his selected replacement. was controversially impeached in 2016 for
He allowed the return of exiles, restored manipulating the budget in order to preserve
habeas corpus, and installed General João social investments. Vice-president Michel
Figueiredo as his successor in 1979. A 1981 Temer took over office against a backdrop
bombing incident at Rio City’s RioCentro of economic recession that began in 2014.
confirmed direct military involvement in
terrorism. The Figueiredo regime’s inaction
in punishing the guilty strengthened the
public’s resolve to end military rule, as Brazil
faced inflation and mounting foreign debt.
The Return to Democracy

In 1985, civilian Tancredo Neves was voted
into office as president. However, he died
before taking office. Brazil completed its tran-
sition to a popularly elected government in Brazilians protesting against the Dilma Rousseff government in
1989, when Fernando Collor de Mello won March 2016, in the largest demonstration of its kind in the country
Brazilian President Fernando

Collor de Mello 2008 Brazil appointed as host 2016 Rio de Janeiro hosts
2001 Congress approves a civil country for the 2014 World Cup the Olympics. Dilma Rousseff
1995 Fernando impeached in August; Michel
code, giving equal rights to 2009 Rio announced as host
Cardoso takes office as men and women Temer replaces her as president
president city for the 2016 Olympics
1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020
1994 Brazil 2000 UNESCO 2002 Brazil wins 2006 Lula da Silva 2011 Dilma 2015 Dilma Rousseff begins
defeats Italy to declares the Atlantic its fifth World Cup is re-elected in a Rousseff second term as president
win the World rainforest a World title defeating landslide victory, elected first
Cup title Heritage Site Germany returning as Brazil’s female 2014 Brazil hosted the
president president 2014 FIFA World Cup
SoutheaSt
Brazil
Introducing Southeast Brazil 66–69

Rio de Janeiro City 70–105
Rio de Janeiro &
Espírito Santo 106–123
Minas Gerais 124–137
São Paulo City 138–163
São Paulo State 164–175
66  SouTHEaST BRazIl
Introducing Southeast Brazil

The four states of Rio de Janeiro, Espírito Santo, Minas Gerais, and
São Paulo constitute Brazil’s economic heartland. The giant
metropolises – Rio de Janeiro, Belo Horizonte, and São Paulo –
BRAZIL
burst with energetic cultural life. Rio de Janeiro holds the greatest
attractions, with its Carnaval and breathtaking mountains and
SOUTHEAST
beaches. Beyond the urban hubs, nature and rural life exist BRAZIL
undisturbed. Wild islands lie a short boat ride away. Inland, in the
folds of the rugged Minas hills, are colonial towns whose cobbled
streets, colorful Portuguese town houses, and ornate Baroque
churches remain little changed since colonial times.
Parque Nacional Serra

da Canastra (see p137),
one of the protected
areas dotting the region,
preserves pristine
rainforest and cerrado, as
well as rich fauna.
Uberlândia
Uberaba
São José Ribeirão

de Rio Preto Preto
SÃO PAULO STATE

(See pp164–75)
Presidente
Prudente
São Paulo City (see pp138–63), the
capital of São Paulo state, is relentlessly Campinas
urban and frenetic, but has Brazil’s best
restaurants, shops, and nightlife.
Jacareí
SÃO PAULO CITY

(See pp138–63)
São Paulo’s coast (see pp168–75),

stretching across 250 miles (400 km),
features beaches and islands that serve
as the weekend playground for the city.
The pretty colonial city of Diamantina, Minas Gerais
introducing southeast brazil  67
0 km 100
0 miles 100
Diamantina (see p128), once a diamond-mining town,

set in a scenic landscape, is reputedly the finest of
colonial towns in Minas Gerais. It was designated a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.
Montes
Claros
Teófilo Otoni
RIO DE JANEIRO &

MINAS GERAIS ESPÍRITO SANTO
(See pp124–37) (See pp106–23)
Ipatinga
Linhares
Belo Horizonte
Congonhas Vitória
Petrópolis (see pp116–19), once the

summer retreat of the Brazilian royal
Juiz de Fora family, is still the home of Dom Pedro
Campos dos Goitacazes II’s heir. The lovely mountain setting
gives it a distinct character.
Petrópolis
Macaé
RIO DE
JANEIRO CITY
(See pp70–105)
São
Sebastião
Rio de Janeiro
(see pp70–105) is a city of
neighborhoods, each with
its own unique character
and most endowed with a
great view. The panorama
of Sugar Loaf and Botafogo
from Mirante Dona Marta is
simply unparalleled.
68  SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
Carnaval in Rio Carnaval Dates

One of the world’s most spectacular festivals, Carnaval 2018 Feb 9–14
2019 Mar 1–6
is celebrated all over Brazil, but the celebrations in Rio 2020 Feb 21–26
are justly famous. They remain unmatched for their 2021 Feb 12–17
sheer scale and splendor. Falling in February or early 2022 Feb 25–Mar 2
March, Carnaval is linked to the calendar of the Catholic 2023 Feb 17–22
2024 Feb 9–14
Church. Traditionally, Carnaval is the last celebration of 2025 Feb 28–Mar 5
excess and joy before the austerity and fasting of the
Lenten period. Its key elements include street celebrations,
carnival balls, and the world-famous parade of top samba
schools, which traditionally takes place at the Sambódromo
in downtown Rio.
Samba Schools are large social clubs found in Rio’s poorer

communities and neighborhoods, often linked to the local favelas.
Mangueira, one of the most prominent schools, was founded in
1928, and Portela, which began in 1923, has won the most Carnaval
titles. Many top schools date from the 1940s and 1950s, while
Grande Rio formed as late as 1988.
Giant Puppets are put

together to decorate the
floats and fascinating
costumes are created for
the participants.
Craftspeople work
throughout the year, as
Carnaval is a year-round
industry. Much of the
work can now be seen at
close quarters in the
Cidade de Samba in
downtown Rio.
Porta bandeira is the school’s

standard bearer, dressed in lavish
18th-century formal wear, regardless
of the school’s theme.
Street Carnivals take place wherever there

is a band that can strike up a samba and
move around the streets. Bands attract a
large following who dance and sing
through the neighborhoods.
INTRODUCING SOUTHEAST BRAZIL  69
Party-loving Cariocas consider

Carnaval more important than Tips for Visitors
any other event in the calendar,
Transport: Take the metro. Use
and that includes both Christmas
Central Station if your ticket is for an
and New Year. It is a week-long
uneven-numbered sector and Praça
holiday for partying around the
Onze for an even one.
clock and a sign that summer
Winner’s Parade: Those who
is finally coming to a close.
missed the event can see part of
the parade by winning schools on
the Saturday after Carnaval.
Tickets: Book your tickets in
advance from the League of Samba
Schools (LIESA), (21) 3032 0001.
A different theme is chosen by every school, and conceptualized

by the carnavalesco (director). The history of Espírito Santo,
represented by the state colors, pink, blue, and white, was the
theme of the Caprichosos de Pilares school in 2006. This float
shows antropofagismo, the concept of “cultural cannibalism,”
putting foreign art, music, and literature in a Brazilian context.
The central display is the focal point of the

float, and is often the most elaborately
designed aspect, with the most creative
costumes on display.
Passistas, or participants, numbering a

minimum of 2,500, join each float with at least
200 in the bateria (percussion section).
The Parade
Each of the 12 main samba schools will have around 4,000
participants who must cover the Passarela do Samba in not less
than 65 minutes and not more than 80 minutes. In that time,
they will put on a performance every bit as complex and visually
exciting as any musical showing on Broadway or in London’s
West End. Six schools parade each night.
Mestre sala is the school’s dance master

who, along with the porta bandeira,
performs a complex series of dance
steps as they move along the route.
Sambódromo, or Passarela do
Samba, was inaugurated in 1984.
Designed by Oscar Niemeyer, it can
accommodate over 60,000
spectators at any one time. The end
square is used for Carnaval, outdoor
concerts, and festivals.
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY

Rio de Janeiro is quite simply one of the world’s most beautiful
and vibrant cities, and is the number-one destination for visitors
coming to Brazil. Its unique setting, with dramatic mountains
and beaches at its very center, sets it apart from the other great
cities of the world. In addition, Rio’s flamboyant Carnaval, samba,
and bossa nova make for a heady mix that is impossible to ignore.
Rio de Janeiro was first discovered by Christ that looms protectively over the
European explorers on January 1, 1502. city from Corcovado mountain and the
They mistook the huge Guanabara Bay for easily recognizable Sugar Loaf Mountain
the mouth of a river (rio) and called the site at one end of Urca Bay. The landscape
“River of January,” thus giving the city its is interspersed with favelas, areas of
name. Evidence of the city’s colonial past poor housing (see p89), which form a
can still be seen in downtown Rio, with large part of the city.
buildings and artifacts dating from the Rio’s residents, affectionately called
16th to the 19th centuries. In 1763, the “Cariocas,” are a laid-back, friendly people
city became the capital of Brazil’s Vice- who love to go out. Visitors will be spoiled
Royalty and in 1808, the Portuguese royal for choice in this hedonistic city, and can
family and court abandoned Lisbon for visit Lapa for its extravagant clubs, Gávea
Rio, making it the capital of both Brazil and for its bars, and Ipanema and Leblon for
the Portuguese Empire. It remained home their boutiques and restaurants. Rio’s
to the Brazilian monarchy until 1889 and beaches provide ample opportunity for all
the capital of the Brazilian Republic until manner of water sports and are a great
1960, when the title was awarded to the meeting place for the city’s residents, both
newly built Bauhaus-style Brasília. rich and poor. Infrastructure and building
Today, Rio is an international metropolis developments for the 2014 World Cup and
and a spectacular tropical resort. Iconic the 2016 Olympic games have further
sights include the enormous statue of enhanced the city's attractions.
The colorful Copacabana beach, lined with palm trees

Sunset over Botofogo Bay and the Sugar Loaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro
Exploring Rio de Janeiro City

Baía de
Rio de Janeiro covers a vast area of Guanabara
473 sq miles (1,225 sq km) and is home IDA

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to 6.5 million people, making it Brazil’s VÃ AV
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D E TURAN O
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National Parks
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c Centro Cultural do Banco
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v Barra pp90–91
m Niterói Areas of Natural Beauty
TÚNEL
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Churches & Monasteries
pp80–81
LAGOA
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RIO DE JANEIRO CITY  73
S A LV E S
IG UE MORRO
DR AV Practical Information
RO DA SAÚDE VE
NE
ZU
ELA
Ilha das
Cobras
* 6,500,000. n Riotur Centro,
Ilha
Fiscal
Praça Pio X 119, Centro, (21) 2271
AV
R MO. DA 7000. _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar),
CONCEIÇÃO
Reveillon at Copacabana (Dec
RIO
DA
Niterói
Uruguaiana 31). ∑ rio.rj.gov.br
AM
Central
BRA
ER I C
Presidente PRAÇA
XV DE Transport
S Vargas
GA
NOVEMBRO
k 9 miles (15 km) N of center,
VA R
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AV GENERAL
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CENTRO Carioca
then taxi. ~ a short distance
E
SID
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PRE (1 km) E of Cinelândia metro
Praça station. @
Onze AV E
NIDA
MEM Cinelândia
RF DE S
R E I C AN E CA Ã LAPA Aeroporto
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RU A DO C ATE T E
COMPRIDO SANTA Janeiro City Aeroporto Internacional

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101
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C L EME N T E AV E TU
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Getting to & Around Rio
CL
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AR
A
ID
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Rio is well connected and its international airport has daily

A
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N
N
AV
flights to most major South and North American and European

E
COPACABANA
V
A
Cantagalo
Praia do
Copacabana
cities, as well as to several cities in Brazil. The city is also linked
by Brazil’s long-distance bus network, while a growing number
MORRO DO
CANTAGALO
of people also arrive here by cruise ship. Getting around Rio is
EIR A fairly simple. Taxis are plentiful and cheap, and are the best
FERR
R SÁ
option for visitors. The city’s extensive bus network can some-
General
Osório times be daunting, as it isn’t always easy to decide which bus
A QU IM
NABU
CO
to take. Although limited, the metro is efficient and the most
R JO
convenient mode of traveling from Copacabana to the city
Praia do PARQUE Praia do center. A small light-rail network, launched in 2016 and still
Arpoador Diablo
GAROTA
DE IPANEMA
expanding, links the port area to Centro. It is possible to rent a
car, but first-time visitors may find driving here a little difficult.
1Street-by-Street: Praça XV
de Novembro & Centro
Originally called the Largo do Paço, Praça XV de Novembro is
the historic heart of Rio, even if it was only so named after the
declaration of the republic on November 15, 1889. The Praça
witnessed the arrival of Dom João VI of Portugal in 1808 as he
fled with his court from Napoleon. The House of the Viceroy
became the Paço Imperial, and for a time the square was the
center of Brazil’s political and commercial power. Today, Praça XV
and the surrounding area is packed with historic buildings and Statue of General Osório
streets. Restoration of the palace in the 1980s and renovation of General Manuel Luís Osório
the square in 2016, opening it up to views of the sea, have acted defended the Empire in the War
of the Triple Alliance between
as catalysts in bringing culture and life back to the city center.
1864 and 1870 (see p57).
Nossa Senhora do
Monte do Carmo once
served as the royal chapel.
. Arco do Telles
Today a pedestrian exit, Arco de Telles dates IO
from 1757 and is all that remains of the old AR
ID O
V EN ANC
Senate House that was destroyed by a fire in A BR
1790. It is Rio’s only surviving colonial arch.
PR
AÇ
Statue of
A
XV
General Osório
DE
NO
VE
MB
. Paço Imperial
RO
The Paço Imperial has been the backdrop for

many key events in Brazilian history, including the
signing of the Lei Aurea in 1888, abolishing
slavery in Brazil.
0 meters 25
Chafariz da Pirâmide
0 yards 25 was built in 1789 to
distribute fresh water to the
city and to visiting ships.
Key
Suggested route
Rio de Janeiro.
Paço Imperial: Praça XV de
Novembro 48. Map 5 E3.
Tel (21) 2215 2431.
Open noon–6pm Tue–Sun.
Nossa Senhora da Candelária:
Locator Map Praça Pio X, Centro. Map 5 D2.
See Street Finder, map 5 Open 7:30am–4pm Mon–Fri,
8am–noon Sat, 9am–1pm Sun.
Espaço Cultural da Marinha: Av
Alfred Agache, Centro. Map 5 E2.
Tel (21) 2532 5992. Open noon–
5pm Tue–Sun.
AV
Transport
PRE
q Uruguaiana.
SV
4 Estação de Barcas.
A
RG
AS
. Nossa Senhora da
Candelária
One of Rio’s earliest
RU
churches was built on this

AD
site in 1630. The current

OR
impressive structure dates

OSA
from 1775.
RIO
O
Rç
E MA
ID
R UA
Espaço Cultural da Marinha,
the Navy’s cultural center, was
inaugurated in 1996. Located in
the old docks, the center is the
RU
starting point for tours of Baía

AD
de Guanabara.
O
OU
VID
OR
Casa França-Brasil (Franco-Brazil

Center) was opened in 1990. This cultural
center located in an 1820 customs
O house hosts exhibitions and events.
AD
RC
ME
O
AD
RU
EK
CH
I TS
K UB
ES
PR
AV
Travessa do Comércio
This photogenic pedestrian
street beyond Arco do Telles is
lined with bars and restaurants.
Carmen Miranda lived at No. 13 as a
small girl. The street is lively at lunch
and in the evening when the bars fill up.
3 Docks & technological advancements in

Waterfront building sustainable cities. There
are interactive displays about
Praça Mauá, Centro. Map 5 D2. the impact that human beings
q Carioca, Uruguaiana. 7
have on the environment and
Instituto Pretos Novos: Rua Pedro on what the future holds. The
Ernesto 32/34, Gamboa. & free Sat.
impressive, eco-efficient
Tel (21) 2516 7089. Open 1–7pm
building designed by Neo-
Tue–Fri, 11am–2pm Sat (call for local
tours). ∑ pretosnovos.com.br
Futurist Spanish architect
AquaRio: Praça Muhammad Ali, Santiago Calatrava is an attraction
Gambôa. & 0 - = Tel (21) 3613 in itself, with its lights visible
0700. Open 10am–6pm daily. from across the bay at night.
∑ aquario.rio
Detail of the gilded Baroque interior of As part of the preparations for 5Museu de Arte
Mosteiro de São Bento the 2016 Olympics, Rio revamped do Rio
its docks, now called Porto Praça Mauá 5, Centro. Map 5 D2
2 Mosteiro de São Maravilha (Port of Wonder), into q Uruguaiana. Tel (21) 3031 2741
Bento a 2.1-mile (3.5-km) pedestrian
boulevard named Orla Conde.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & free
Tue and last Sun of month. 8 7 =
Rua Dom Gerardo 68 (entrance by The dock area used to be a 0 - ∑ museudeartedorio.org.br
elevator at No. 40), Centro. Map 5 D2. slave-trade port during the
Tel (21) 2206 8100. q Uruguaiana. colonial period. Its regeneration The Rio Museum of Art displays
Open 7am–6pm daily. 8 7
unveiled numerous artefacts and works illustrating the history,
5 7:30am Mon–Fri, 8am Sat, 10am
ruins related to African heritage. life, and social fabric of the city
Sun. ∑ osb.org.br
These are now exhibited at of Rio de Janeiro. Housed in a
Benedictine monks from Bahia Instituto Pretos Novos, which heritage-listed palace, formerly
founded the São Bento also offers tours about the area’s known as Dom João VI, fused
Monastery in 1590 and much of history, including the remains of with a modern former bus
the historic building, located on a large slave cemetery and the station, the museum’s exhibits
the hills of São Bento, has been port and market where slaves are arranged by theme over four
structurally untouched since it were traded upon arrival. floors, and feature art ranging
was built between 1617 and Lovers of marine life will enjoy from the Baroque period through
1641. The exterior of the main AquaRio, South America's largest to 20th-century Modernists. It
building reflects the simplicity of aquarium, where visitors walk in also hosts temporary exhibitions.
the time of its construction and underwater tunnels to view
gives no hint of the opulence of over 300 species of marine fauna.
the gilded Baroque interior. 6 Confeitaria
A number of the works on Colombo
display were carved by one of 4 Museu do
Rua Gonçalves Dias 32, Centro.
the monks, Frei Domingos da Amanhã Map 5 D3. Tel (21) 2505 1500.
Conceição (1643–1718). They q Carioca. Open 9am–7pm Mon–
Praça Mauá 1, Centro. Map 5 D2.
include the main altar of the q Uruguaiana. Tel (21) 3812 1812. Fri, 9am–5pm Sat. 7 limited.
monastery’s church. The painting Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & free ∑ confeitariacolombo.com.br
displayed on it, which was Tue. 8 7 = 0 -
created around 1676, is ∑ museudoamanha.org.br The Colombo Tearoom dates
dedicated to Nossa Senhora de from 1894 and remains a wonder-
Montserrat (Black Virgin). Inaugurated in late 2015, the ful mix of Art Nouveau and belle
São Bento is still very much a Museum of Tomorrow is époque. Located in what was
working monastery. The dedicated to science and then the very heart of Rio, it was
Benedictine monks are protective
of the monastery and their work
and have tried hard to keep the
church from becoming simply a
tourist attraction. Many areas,
such as the beautiful cloisters,
remain out-of-bounds except on
special occasions. Mass for the
public is said daily, with a full
Gregorian chant at 10am on
Sundays. Visitors should
remember to dress appropriately
if they wish to view the interior of
the monastery. The striking Museu do Amanhã
Farther south along Avenida Rio

Branco is the heart of Cinelândia
or “cinema land,” the area around
which the city’s movie houses
sprang up in the 1920s. Many are
still in operation, most notably
the Cine Odeon BR which opened
in 1926 and closed in 1999 to
be renovated. It reopened a
year later as the headquarters of
the Rio Film Festival. Other
buildings in the area include the
Museu Nacional de Belas Artes
(see p78), Biblioteca Nacional,
and Palácio Pedro Ernesto.
9 Catedral
Opulent façade of the Theatro Municipal Metropolitana
Av República do Chile 245, Centro.
a meeting point for intellectuals, 8 Theatro Map 5 D4. Tel (21) 2240 2669.
artists, and politicians. Regulars Municipal & q Cinelândia. Open 7am–5pm daily.
included politician Ruy Barbosa,
President Getúlio Vargas, and Cinelândia 7 5 noon Mon–Sat, 10am Sun.
Museu Arquidiocesano de Arte
composer Heitor VillaLobos. Av Rio Branco, Centro. Map 5 D4. Sacra: Open 9am–4pm Wed & Fri,
The mirrors were shipped in Tel (21) 2332 9191. q Cinelândia. 9am–noon Sat & Sun. 7
from Belgium and the marble 8 11:30am–4pm Tue–Fri, ∑ catedral.com.br
from Italy, while much of the 11am–1pm Sat & Sun7
original furniture is made of ∑ theatromunicipal.rj.gov.br Rio’s striking Metropolitan
Brazilian jacaranda wood. Cathedral, with its truncated
Visitors can savor the Rio’s Municipal Theater, built conical shape, was concept
atmosphere of Rio’s past by between 1905 and 1909 and ualized by Ivo Calliari (1918–
eating a snack in the Bar Jardim, inspired by Paris's Opéra Garnier, 2005), a Catholic priest.
or a meal at the restaurant. is the main venue for the city’s The cathedral’s first stone
ballet, opera, and orchestra was laid on January 20, 1964,
(including the Municipal Sym and the inauguration of the
7 Igreja de São phony Orchestra of São Paulo), still unfinished building was
Francisco da and continues to attract the held 12 years later, in 1976,
Penitência best talent from both Brazil and marking the 300th anniversary
abroad. After renovation in the of the Diocese of Rio. Standing
Largo de Carioca 5, Centro. Map 5 D4. early 2010s, the guided tours 248 ft (75 m) high with no
q Carioca. Tel (21) 2262 0197. Open
now include the picturesque interior columns, this huge
9am–noon, 1–4pm Tue–Fri. & 8
inner stairway, a basement cathedral has a seating capacity
∑ museusacrofranciscano.org.br
restaurant with Persianstyle of 5,000 and can accommodate
Restored to its former glory, the decor, and a snippet of rehearsals. up to 20,000 people standing.
church of São Francisco da The interior is dominated by
Penitência is considered one of four magnificent stainedglass
the richest and most beautiful windows that stretch 197 ft (60
examples of Baroque art in m) to the ceiling. They represent
Brazil. Built between 1657 and the apostolic (yellow), Catholic
1772, the church exhibits (blue), ecclesiastical (green),
various works of the Portuguese and saintly (red) traditions.
artist Francisco Xavier de Brito. The Museu Arquidiocesano
His art heavily influenced the de Arte Sacra (Sacred Art
Brazilian artist Aleijadinho (see Museum) in the basement
p135), whose own work includes historical items in its
spectacularly adorns many of collection, such as the
the Baroque churches of Minas baptismal fonts used for
Gerais. One of the church’s christening the Brazilian royal
highlights is the 1738 painting family, the golden rose gifted
of the glorification of St. Francis to Princess Isabel by Pope Leo
by Caetano da Costa Coelho, XIII to celebrate her signing the
the first Brazilian painting to be Stained-glass window at the Catedral abolition of slavery, and the
done in perspective. Metropolitana throne of Dom Pedro II.
Lapa has always had a slightly Américo, whose A Batalha do

bohemian feel and during the Avaí (1877) is one of the largest
first half of the 1900s was the paintings in the world painted
center of Rio’s alternative on an easel. There is also a
nightlife. The area still boasts a gallery for contemporary exhibits.
vibrant nightlife, attracting The gallery has an extensive
people from all over the city collection of non-Brazilian works
who come looking for the best and a particularly fine selection
of Brazilian music. Key hot spots of Baroque Italian art dating
include Rio Scenarium, Carioca from the 17th and 18th
da Gema, and Dama da Noite. In centuries. The museum was
2004, the area saw the return of created on the basis of a prized
the Circo Voador (Flying Circus), art collection, brought to Brazil
now held in a purpose-built from Europe by Portugal’s King
music venue that replaced the Dom João VI and his court
earlier tent of the 1980s and when they fled Napoleon
The Bondinho de Santa Teresa streetcar early 1990s. Many of the leading in 1808 (see p56).
in Santa Teresa names in contemporary
Brazilian music – including Seu
0 Santa Teresa Jorge – got their first break at e Museu Histórico
Santa Teresa, Centro.

the Circo Voador (see pp96–9). Nacional
q Carioca. Praça Marechal Âncora.
At the top of the Santa Teresa w Museu Nacional Map 5 F4. Tel (21) 2550 9224.
q Cinelândia. Open 10am–5:30pm
hill, the neigborhood of Santa de Belas Artes Tue–Fri, 1–5pm Sat, Sun & public
Teresa offers a magnificent Av Rio Branco 199, Centro. Map 5 E4. hols. & 7 restricted.
view of the city, particularly Tel (21) 3299 0600. q Cinelândia. ∑ museuhistoriconacional.com.br
from Parque das Ruínas. Its Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 1–6pm Sat,
colonial charm has been Sun & public hols. & free on Sun. 8 Founded in 1922, the country’s
retained through a resistance by appt. 7 ∑ mnba.gov.br leading history museum
to development, and it is recounts the history of Brazil
famed for its winding cobbled The National Museum of ine Arts up to 1889. Its collection of
streets, old mansions, and is one of the most important 287,000 pieces and 80% of
for being an artistic hot spot. permanent art collections in Latin Brazil’s museological heritage
The construction of the Santa America. The building in which includes everything from
Teresa convent in the 18th it is housed dates from 1908. paintings and coins to carriages
century marked the beginning The collection, which has over and rarities such as the pen
of the development of this 16,000 pieces in its archive, used by Princess Isabel to sign
area, and it is a popular tourist features Brazilian artists from the the decree abolishing slavery.
site, with restaurants, live colonial period as well as from Apart from displaying period
music, cultural centers, and the 19th and 20th centuries. furniture, 19th-century firearms,
other attractions. A ride on Artists include Frans Post, who and locomotives, the museum
the distinctive yellow streetcar, painted Brazilian landscapes in also traces Brazil’s colonial
the Bondinho de Santa Teresa, classical Dutch style, the past in its charts and written
is an experience not to be Frenchman Jean Baptiste declarations. The building is
missed. This is the last of the Debret, who painted the one of the oldest in Rio, with a
many streetcars that used immortal Battle of Guararapes portion belonging to Santiago
to crisscross the city, and it (1879), Vitor Meireles, and Pedro Fort, dating from 1603.
connects the neighborhood
with downtown Rio.
q Lapa
Lapa, Centro. q Carioca.
The most famous image of the

area known as Lapa is the Arcos
da Lapa, an aqueduct built in
1724 to bring water down
from the Santa Teresa forest to
the public fountain in Largo da
Carioca. In 1896, it became the
base for the viaduct that carries
streetcars to Santa Teresa. A Batalha do Avaí (1877) by Pedro Américo, Museu Nacional de Belas Artes
r Museu de Arte Proclamation of the Republic

Moderna in 1889, and covers events
until 1960, when the capital
Av Infante Dom Henrique 85, Centro. and the then president,
Map 5 F5. Tel (21) 3883 5600. Kubitschek, moved from Rio
q Cinelândia. Open noon–6pm
de Janeiro to Brasília. What
Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat, Sun & public
makes the museum particularly
hols (last adm half hour before closing).
& 8 7 ∑ mamrio.org.br
special is that its building,
constructed between 1858
Rio’s Modern Art Museum and 1866, was the presidential
(MAM) has one of the best residence from 1897 until 1954.
collections of 20th-century In that year, President Getúlio
art in Brazil, surpassed only Vargas (see pp60–61), Brazil’s
by MASP in São Paulo (see p147). most influential statesman
The museum also houses who was president for 24 years,
one of the largest archives committed suicide in his
of Brazilian films. bedroom, which has been
The strikingly modern Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do Outeiro preserved exactly as it used
building that houses the MAM rising above tree tops to be when he lived here.
was far ahead of its time in its In total, the palace was home
design and architecture when majestically on top of a hill to 18 Brazilian presidents, all
it was built in 1958. In 1978, beside the freeways cutting of whom feature in the
a major fire destroyed many through Flamengo Park. museum’s various exhibits.
of its irreplaceable exhibits, The spot where the church Apart from the museum and
including the works of Miró, was built, in 1714, was first palace, there is also an attractive
Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Max used as a place of worship garden on the grounds.
Ernst, and René Magritte. It in 1608, when the image of
has taken time and the Our Lady of Gloria was placed
generosity of collectors in in a grotto.
Brazil and abroad to rebuild the The church, which was
collection. Today, the MAM is completed in 1739, became
once more a highly regarded the favorite place of worship
institution, not only for its own for Dom Pedro VI and his
archive but also for the visiting family after their arrival from
exhibitions from around the Portugal in 1808. Known for its
world that it stages frequently. hand-painted tiles dating from
Located close to its gardens the 1730s, it was declared
is a monument to the victims a national monument by
of World War II. In 1980, Pope President Vargas in 1937.
John Paul II said mass from The church can be reached
the steps of the monument by car, or by foot up the steps Attractive garden outside the Museu
to a crowd of more than known as Ladeira de Nossa da República
2 million people. Below Senhora. It is also possible
the monument is a museum to take a small cable car from
describing Brazil’s participation Rua do Russel 312. There are u Oi Futuro
in the Allied operations, known views across the bay, as well Ipanema
as the Italian Campaign, in as a small sacred art museum
Rua Visconde de Piraja 54.
and around Italy between that also includes objects Tel (21) 3131 9333. q General
1944 and 1945. from the royal family. Osório Open 1–9pm Tue–Sun.
∑ oifuturo.org.br
t Igreja Nossa y Museu da A renovated 1918 building near

Senhora da Glória República Ipanema beach houses Oi Futuro,
do Outeiro Rua do Catete 153, Catete.
a hypermodern cultural center
Tel (21) 2127 0324. q Catete. for art and technology. It hosts
Praça Nossa Senhora da Glória 135, innovative exhibitions of avant-
Glória. Tel (21) 2557 4600. q Glória. Open 10am–4:30pm Tue–Fri,
11am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. & 8 garde visual arts with multimedia
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 8am–noon
∑ museudarepublica.gov.br installations that blend art forms
Sat & Sun. 5 9am, 11am & 6:30pm
such as painting, photography,
Sun. ∑ outeirodagloria.org.br
The story of Brazil’s history, as film, music, and poetry. There
Most visitors to downtown Rio told by the Museum of the are also film screenings, dance
cannot help but notice the Republic, picks up where the performances, and concerts
beautiful octagonal church of Museu Histórico Nacional left of experimental musical styles
Our Lady of Gloria, as it sits off. It begins with the from all over the world.
i Sugar Loaf Mountain

Guarding the entrance to Guanabara Bay, the monolithic
granite and quartz Sugar Loaf rises 1,300 ft (396 m) above the
waters of the southern Atlantic Ocean. From the summit, it is
easy to understand why the early explorers believed that they
had sailed into the mouth of a great river they christened Rio
de Janeiro. The Sugar Loaf experience takes in two mountains,
Morro do Urca and Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf). It is possible
to scale both these mountains via organized climbs on most
weekends. Demanding less effort, the cable car, originally
opened in 1912, stops at the 705-ft- (224-m-) high Morro da The original 1912 cable car, a remarkable
Urca before ascending to the summit. feat of its times
Pão de Açúcar
The name of Sugar Loaf, adopted in the 19th century,
is assumed to have been derived from the mountain’s
shape, which resembles conical clay molds used earlier
to refine sugar. The Tupi Indians, however, called it “Pau-
nh-Açuquã” (high, pointed, or isolated hill).
KEY
1 The summit provides

unforgettable views out over
Copacabana, Ipanema, and the
scenic Corcovado and Tijuca.
2 Helisight, with a heliport base at
Morro da Urca, offers flights around
Sugar Loaf and Corcovado (see
6–7 .
pp86–7)
6–7)
3 Morro da Urca The flat summit
of Morro da Urca has a small
museum, restaurants, bars, and a
theater that hosts popular shows,
concerts, and even Carnaval balls.
4 Wooded Trails A series of trails
that lead to a number of good
climbing locations wind their way up
to the summit. The trails are also an Rock Climbing
ideal place to spot marmosets. Since British nanny
Henrietta Carstairs made
5 Cable car station at Praia the first recorded solo
Vermelha ascent in 1817, climbing
6 Boats can be hired at many key the smooth Sugar Loaf
locations for an enjoyable ride in has become a popular
the calm waters to the base of sport, with over 60
Sugar Loaf. known routes to the
towering summit.
Av Pasteur 520, Praia Vermelha,
Urca. Tel (21) 2546 8433. & 0
= ∑ bondinho.com.br
Cable Car: Praia Vermelha.
Open 8am–9pm (ticket booth
closes at 7:50pm)
Helisight: Tel (21) 2542 7935.
Transport
@ 107, 513, Circular 1, Circular 2.
Cable Car Ride
The current Italian cable system carries as many as 1,360 passengers
every hour. The glass walls of the cable car allow sweeping views of
the city.
Rio City at Night

The city of Rio de Janeiro boasts a
stunning nightscape. The magnificent
Sugar Loaf remains illuminated, even in
the dead of the night, by powerful 1,000-
watt projectors.
James Bond’s Moonraker

In 1979, Sugar Loaf and the cable car
formed the backdrop for a main action
sequence in Moonraker
Moonraker, with Roger
Moore playing James Bond. In real life,
the Great Train Robber, Ronald Biggs,
was kidnapped in 1981 by a group of
British mercenaries from a restaurant,
which was then located next to the
cable car station. Ironically, during a
first kidnap bid in 1979, the kidnappers
had claimed to be part of the
Moonraker crew.
A scene from the film Moonraker
opening in 1923. It has hosted

both authentic royalty and the
royalty of the entertainment
world, including Queen
Elizabeth II and Marlene
Dietrich. The hotel continues
to draw the rich and famous.
The Museu da Imagem e
do Som (Museum of Image
and Sound) places an emphasis
on the history of Brazilian music
Bustling Copacabana beach, popular with locals and vacationers and film. The striking modern
building opens in 2018 and will
o Copacabana chapel as Rio’s defense against incorporate the collection
q Siqueira Campos. n Av Princesa attack, the Forte de Copacabana previously housed in Museu
Isabel 183, (21) 2541 7522. offers scenic views of the entire Carmen Miranda, including the
sweep of Copacabana. costumes that belonged to the
One of the world’s most The main attraction of starlet, her records, and films.
celebrated beaches, the iconic Copacabana is the beach The beachfront kiosk bars
Copacabana is the center of which, along with Leme, lining Avenue Atlântica – the
Rio’s tourist trade. On New constitutes a magnificent road that runs the length of
Year’s eve, the neighborhood 3-mile (5-km) stretch from the beach – are popular. The
becomes Rio’s spiritual and Le Meridien hotel in the north entire length of Copacabana is
festive heart, as millions of on the corner of Avenida divided into stations (postos).
Cariocas and visitors take to the Princesa Isabel, to the Forte Postos 5 and 6 attract older
beach to party, and honor de Copacabana and Sofitel residents and favela youngsters.
Yemanjá, Goddess of the Sea. Rio in the south. Until 1892, The fresh catch of the day
The name Copacabana, or it had been a leading trek for can be bought at Posto 7 –
“Copa Caguana” (Luminous those from the city to reach at the southern end – known
Place) in Quechua, an ancient Copacabana. In that year, a as the posto de pescadores
language still spoken in Peru, tunnel was cut through from (fisherman’s post).
was given by the Incas to a Botafogo to Copacabana,
lovely site by the Lagoa Titicaca, followed by a second tunnel P Forte de Copacabana
where they built a temple. In in 1904 that allowed the Av Atlântica Posto 6. Tel (21) 2521 1032.
the 17th century, the captain trams to reach the beach. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. ∑ forte
of a Spanish galleon erected a The real turning point, decopacabana.com & 8 7
chapel in honor of Our Lady of however, was the creation of E Museu da Imagem e do Som
Copacabana, who came to his the Neo-Classical Copacabana Av Atlântica 3432. Tel (21) 2332 9521.
aid during a shipwreck. Built in Palace hotel (see p370), a part Open see website for times.
1914, on the promontory of the of the fabric of Rio life since its ∑ mis.rj.gov.br & 8 7
Map of Copacabana, Ipanema & Leblon

S
DO
O
R R ITOS
O BR
LEBLON L agoa CA
M
AV ATA Túnel Major

UL FO D Rodr igo
Antero de E PA Clube de Regatas AV Rubens Vaz
VIA EP de F r eit as
Quental Flamengo I TÁ
CI
AV D Jardim la O
PE
ELFI A SS
M M
O REI
de Alah de OA
RA
im Cantagalo
d
Garcia
Jar
Praia do Leblon D’Ávila

RU
A IPANEMA MORRO DOS
VI Museu da
SC
Nossa Senhora CABRITOS
AT AV
EN
ON Imagem e
LA ID
A
DE
DE
da Paz
Túnel Pref. do Som
NT
A
VI PIR
AN
EIR Sá Freire Alvin

IC AJ
AB
Praia de A Á
SO
AC
Ipanema UT
General
IC
O
OP
NT
OC Osório
AC
LÂ
EA
SEH O R
Feira Hippie
AT
N
IDA
A
AV E N
AV NOSS
0 meters 500 Praia do

Arpoador Forte de
0 yards 500 Casssino Copacabana
Shopping Centre
Praia do
For keys to symbols see back flap Diablo
The Girl from Ipanema

One of the most played and recorded
songs in popular music history, “The Girl
from Ipanema,” or “A Garota de Ipanema,”
was written in 1962 by Antônio Carlos
Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes. The duo
are said to have been inspired by a
sensual girl from Ipanema, Helô Pinheiro.
A year later, the recording of the song’s
most famous version took place in New
York’s A&R Studio, featuring João and
Astrud Gilberto
Astrud Gilberto, in the Portuguese and
English versions, respectively. In 1964,
Stan Getz, Jobim, and the Gilbertos took bossa nova to a global
Exterior of an upmarket jewelry store audience with the release of Getz/Gilberto. With “The Girl from
in Ipanema Ipanema” as the opening track, the album stayed in the US charts
for 96 weeks and won four Grammys.
p Ipanema
q General Osório, Nossa Senhora da
Leblon are considered the and mix of bars, clubs, and
Paz. n Rua Visconde de Pirajá/Rua
Joana Angélica. Open 9am–6pm daily.most desirable places to live restaurants. Rua Dias Ferreira, at
in Rio. More residential than the most westerly point, boasts
Almost as famous as Copacabana, Ipanema is also a particularly eclectic mix. Like
Copacabana, Ipanema shot into more stylish, its back streets Ipanema, there are only a few
the limelight in the 1960s with dotted with chic boutiques, hotels along the beachfront
the globally famous song bars, restaurants, and nightclubs. Avenida Delfim Moreira.
written by Antônio Jobim and The most prestigious address While the beaches of
Vinícius de Moraes, “The Girl in Rio is Avenida Vieira Souto, Copacabana and Leme flow
from Ipanema” (see p36). while running parallel, two seamlessly into each other,
The actual name of this streets back, is Rua Visconde de Leblon and Ipanema are sepa-
fashionable area is credited to Pirajá, the backbone to the rated by Jardim de Alah and the
the native Tupi-Guaraní who Ipanema shopping experience. canal that links the Lagoa Rodrigo
called the area Y-panema, or At the Copacabana end is Praça de Freitas with the sea. The
“rough water.” The first non- General Osório, the public square 1-mile- (2-km-) long Leblon is
native residents moved into the that plays host to Rio’s popular said to have been given its name
area around 1884, and today Feira Hippie de Ipanema (Hippie in honor of a blond foreigner,
Ipanema and neighboring Fair), every Sunday. The fair has one of the first residents in the
been a part of life in Ipanema area. The nationality of “Le Blond”
and Rio since opening is debatable. Some scholars say
in 1968. that he was French, while others
MORRO DE surmise he was Dutch.
The mile-long
S ÃO J O Ã O
R FI
stretch of Ipanema Leblon is the headquarters of

GUR
RUA
beach runs from Clube de Regatas Flamengo,

EIRE
SAN
Siqueira Arcoverde Leblon in the west, of which the most famous is

AV PRIN CES A ISAB
DO
Campos
TA C
up to Arpoador in the Flamengo Football Club, the

DE M
the east. Arpoador World Club Champions in 1981.

LA
AG
RA
COPACABANA extends the beach

ALHÃ
Copacabana by another half-mile,

ES
Palace Hotel and is popular with

EL
A
TIC the surf set, while the
LÂN
AT
NI
DA rock next to it is a great
AV
E Praia de
Copacabana spot to watch the sunset.
a Leblon
q Jardim de Alah, Antero de Quental.
n Rua Antero de Quental/Av Ataulfo
Paiva. Open 9am–6pm.
For many years, Leblon sat in the

shadow of Ipanema. But today it
is considered as fashionable and
desirable as its neighbor, with The exclusive Leblon neighborhood and its
perhaps an even greater density fashionable beach
year round, so it is easy to catch

the action. The club will allow
even non-members and visitors
into the members’ stand to
enjoy the race.
The track first opened in
1926, with the main stand
designed in a Louis XV style.
In total, there are five stands,
a paddock, a turf track, two
sand tracks, and an equestrian
village. The biggest race of the
year – and one of South
America’s most important –
View of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas and Jóquei Clube Brasileiro from Corcovado is the Grande Prêmio Brasil
do Turfe, that was first run in
s Lagoa Rodrigo center. Several international 1933. It traditionally takes
de Freitas regattas have been held here. place every June.
Visitors can go boating, as
Lagoa. Map 2 A3. q Jardim de Alah pedallos and other craft are
7
available for rent. It is also f Jardim Botânico
The picturesque Lagoa Rodrigo possible to rent bicycles.
Rua Jardim Botânico 920 & 1008,
de Freitas, or Lagoa (lagoon) as The Fundação Eva Klabin is
Gávea. Map 1 A1. Tel (21) 3874 1808.
it is often called, sits at the foot one of Rio’s prolific cultural @ Open 8am–5pm daily (Mon: from
of Corcovado peak and separates centers and museums. Its noon). Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. & 8
the Serra da Carioca from exhibits are part of the private 7 restricted. ∑ jbrj.gov.br
Ipanema and Leblon. A full circuit collection of Eva Klabin, whose
of the lagoon is about 5 miles family made a fortune in paper Rio’s fascinating Jardim
(8 km) and is popular with in the mid-20th century. Botânico was founded in 1808
joggers, cyclists, and parents The scenic Parque da by the Prince Regent, Dom
with children in prams. There are Catacumba around Lagoa is João VI. Originally meant to
plenty of halts en route, with interspersed with sculptures by acclimatize plants and spices
kiosks selling everything from artists Roberto Moriconi, Bruno coming from the Orient and
coconut water to full meals. Giorgi, and Caribé. Monkeys roam the East Indies, it later became
Some kiosks even offer live the park, which offers views over the Royal Garden and opened
music in the evenings. the Lagoa and toward Ipanema. to the public in 1822. Among its
The Lagoa is also bordered by many illustrious visitors were
more conventional restaurants E Fundação Eva Klabin Charles Darwin in 1832 and
and bars, especially along the Av Epitácio Pessoa 2480. Albert Einstein in 1925.
Ipanema stretch. One of Rio’s Tel (21) 3202 8550. Open 2–4pm Tue– Today, Jardim Botânico
most traditional places, Bar Sun. & free Sun. includes an area of natural
Lagoa (see p387) opened here Y Parque da Catacumba rainforest, and is home to many
in 1934. Along the northern Av Epitácio Pessoa 3000. Tel (21) 2247 species of plants, as well as
shore, highlights include Claude 9949. Open 8am–5pm daily (to 6pm innumerable types of birds
Troisgros’ Olympe (see p388), summer). and animals. However, the
which, despite a change in E Sociedade Hípica Brasileira
name since it opened in 1983, is Av Borges de Medeiros 2448. Tel (21)
still one of Rio’s best restaurants. 2156 0156. Open only for events. & 7
Several sports clubs are also
located here. Among the most
famous are the Jockey Club d Jóquei Clube
Brasileiro, the Sociedade Hípica Brasileiro
Brasileira, the city’s main Rua Jardim Botânico 1003, Gávea.
equestrian center, and the Map 1 A2. Tel (21) 3534 9061.
headquarters of the Clube q Botafogo. @ Open from 6pm
Regatas do Flamengo. Mon, from 5:30pm Fri, from 3:15pm
Flamengo, along with Vasco Sat & Sun. & 7 ∑ jcb.com.br
da Gama, Fluminense, and
Botafogo, is one of Brazil’s top With a great view of the Lagoa
soccer teams and has won the and the Corcovado mountain,
National and South American the Jockey Club has one of the
titles on many occasions. All most spectacular settings of any
clubs have rowing divisions as racecourse in the world. Races A track lined with palm trees in Jardim
the Lagoa is Brazil’s main rowing are held four days a week, all Botânico
garden’s signature are the h Museu Villa-

200 imperial palms that line
its main avenues.
Lobos
Jardim Botânico has other Rua Sorocaba 200, Botafogo.
attractions within its grounds. Tel (21) 2226 9818. q Botafogo.
These include Rio’s original Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. 8
∑ museuvillalobos.org.br
gunpowder factory dating
from 1808, the old gates of With over 1,000 compositions
the Fine Arts Academy, and to his credit, Heitor Villa-Lobos
the Empress’s Mansion, which (1897–1959) is considered one
became the headquarters of the greatest composers in
of the National School of Latin America (see p36). It is
Tropical Botany in 2001. believed that it was through
his work that Brazilian music
first became popular abroad,
g Museu do eventually gaining universal
Índio appeal with the advent of Stately building housing the Museu Casa de
bossa nova. Rui Barbosa
Rua das Palmeiras 55, Botafogo.
The Villa-Lobos Museum,
Tel (21) 3214 8702. q Botafogo.
which moved to a stately 19th- j Museu Casa de
Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, 1–5pm
Sat, Sun & public hols. =
century mansion in Botafogo in
1986, helps organize the Villa-
Rui Barbosa
∑ museudoindio.gov.br
Lobos Festival that begins on Rua São Clemente 134, Botafogo.
Founded in 1953, the Museum the anniversary of his death, Tel (21) 3289 8686. q Botafogo.
of the Indian is run by the November 17, each year. His Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, 2–6pm
second wife, Arminda Neves Sat & Sun. & 8
National Indian Foundation
∑ casaruibarbosa.gov.br
(Funai) with the aim of d’Almeida, set up the museum
giving an insight into the in 1960, one year after his death.
lives of Brazil’s Indian and Its aim is to preserve the A renowned politician,
indigenous groups. Housed composer’s personal collection diplomat, and jurist, Rui Barbosa
in a 19th-century mansion, of artifacts and keep his work de Oliveira (1849–1923) helped
this dynamic institution alive. Exhibits include his books, shape several important
has more than 14,000 music scores, photographs, Brazilian policies, including
indigenous artifacts, 50,000 and instruments. those pertaining to direct
photographs, and over 200 Villa-Lobos’s best-known work elections and the abolition of
films. With 16,000 books and is his cycle of the nine Bachianas slavery. He made his mark inter-
magazines, it also has one of Brasileiras, which pays homage nationally during the 1907
the most complete libraries to both Bach and Brazilian folk Peace Conference at the Hague,
covering topics related to music. Such was his versatility where he argued that all
indigenous peoples. that he wrote a variety of music countries should be treated
There are several permanent from choros (an upbeat waltz or equally. Barbosa contested
exhibits in the gardens, polka), concertos, symphonies, twice for the Brazilian
including a Guaraní house, and orchestral works, to presidency – in 1910 and 1919 –
inside which is a well-stocked chamber music, operas, and but lost on both occasions.
store that sells genuine ballets, as well as guitar and Barbosa was also a great
indigenous artifacts. solo piano pieces. essayist and was one of the
founders (and later president) of
the Brazilian Academy of Letters.
He was eventually elected as a
judge to the International Court
of Justice at the Hague.
The 1850 building that houses
the Rui Barbosa Museum was
the statesman’s home from
1895 until his death in 1923.
When it opened to the public
in 1930, it was the first private
residence in Brazil to be turned
into a museum. The museum
showcases a collection of
Barbosa’s personal possessions,
such as furniture and art, and
a library containing 200 of his
Indigenous roundhouse on the grounds of Museu do Índio own works.
kMorro do Corcovado &

Cristo Redentor
The 2,316-ft (706-m) Corcovado mountain derives its
name from corcova (hunchback), which describes the
physical appearance of the mountain itself. On the
summit, the iconic Cristo Redentor statue towers over
Rio, and is Brazil’s most recognizable landmark. It was
officially inaugurated in 1931 to mark the centenary of
Brazil’s independence. The enormous statue sits in the
center of the gorgeous tropical jungle of Parque Making the Head
Nacional da Tijuca. Work on the statue began in Paris in
1926, with French sculptor Paul
Landowski working on the head and
hands. The head alone weighs 30 tons.
The Statue
Having been shipped from France to Brazil,
the 98-ft (30-m) statue was faced in
limestone and hauled up the mountain by
rail to be assembled and attached to
Wide Open Arms supporting pillars.
The entire Rio City is
embraced by Christ,
and the statue’s open Morro d
a
Formiga
arms are seen as a
testament to the
warmth of the Brazilians.
E
STR DO C
Alto da
Boa Vista OR
COVADO
Mo rro d a
C o rco va d o
J
Cristo
Redentor
0 km 2
Famous Visitors 0 miles 2
Pope John Paul II, Pope Pius XII, and Albert

Einstein are some of the famous people to
have visited Corcovado.
Morro do Corcovado.
n Corcovado, (21) 2492 2252.
Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily.
(entrance at Parque Nacional
da Tijuca). ∑ corcovado.com.br
Transport
£ Cosme Velho station, Rua
Cosme Velho 513, 8:30am–7pm
daily. @ 180, 184, 583 & 584.
. Museu Internacional de Arte Naïf Shuttle van: ∑ paineiras
The museum has one of the largest collections of naive art in the corcovado.com.br
world, featuring more than 6,000 works, dating from the 15th century
to the present.
Centro Rio
de Janeiro
Largo do
COSME Boticário
VELHO Parque Nacional Da Tijuca
Estação da Estrada The statue of Christ sits in this scenic national
Centro Rio de Ferro Corcovado Museu
Internacional park, which contains the world’s largest
de Janeiro
de Arte Naïf urban forest – Floresta da Tijuca. Dotted
with natural springs, the park is home to
more than 200 species of birds and
ta
several small mammals. It draws regular
NTE
ar J crowds of resident Cariocas, especially
IRA
M
M na on the weekend (see p92).
TA
R AL Do
AR
ro
M
or
A
ON
M D
SILVESTRE IRANT
E
RM
EST
DAS PAINEIRA
EST R S
P a r q ue
N ac i on al d a T ij u c a
UÇAS
AS
REBOUÇ
IO REBO
Key
TÚNEL ANDRÉ
TÚNEL ANTÔN
Major road
Cog Train
Other road Passing through the dense
Minor road Atlantic rainforest, the train ride
Cog train route up the summit is a plus. The line
was originally built in 1882 by
Tunnels
Dom Pedro II; the current Swiss
Park boundary train dates from 1979.
KEY
1 Escalators link the base to the

train station and car park.
2 The pedestal, on which the
statue stands, is 26 ft (8 m) high.
3 The chapel at the base of
the statue can accommodate
150 people.
4 Largo do Boticário is a lovely
square surrounded by seven private
houses. Colonial in appearance, the
houses date from around 1920. . Stunning Views
5 Mirante Dona Marta offers Corcovado is located right in the center of Rio and can be seen
splendid views of Rio City. from most areas of the city. The views over and across Rio from
the summit offer a sweeping aerial panorama.

l Estádio do who was an archaeologist. The

Maracanã museum’s gardens and the
former royal palace are an
Rua Prof. Eurico Rabelo (gate 18), attraction in their own right,
Maracanã. Closed until further and their lakes and grottos are
notice 7
a big draw on the weekends.
Rio’s Maracanã Stadium is They were landscaped by the
one of the most famous French architect Auguste
soccer grounds in the world. Glaziou in 1869.
It is also the largest, having The Jardim Zoológico is
hosted crowds of up to considered one of the best in
200,000 people. the world and is Brazil’s oldest
The stadium, which was zoo, having been founded in
refurbished for the 2007 Pan 1888. It is home to approximately
American Games, was built Rio Zoo’s main gate, gifted to Dom Pedro I 350 species and more than
for the 1950 World Cup and by an English aristocrat 2,100 animals, including one of
inaugurated on June 16 the the most complete collections
same year, with a game z Quinta da Boa of Brazilian mammals and
between Rio and São Paulo. Vista butterflies. Particular highlights
The first game played include the Brazilian monkeys
by the Brazilian team took Av Pedro II (between Rua Almirante and birds. The zoo boasts
place on June 24, 1950, with Baltazar & Rua Dom Meinrdo, São an excellent aviary and an
Cristóvão). q São Cristóvão.
Brazil beating Mexico 4–0. aquarium that houses a
Museu Nacional: Tel (21) 3938 1123.
A month later, a crowd of variety of fascinating Brazilian
Open noon–4pm Mon (5pm summer),
almost 200,000 tested the 10am–4pm Tue–Sun (5pm summer).
river species.
stadium’s capacity to see Closed Jan 1, Dec 25, Carnaval & Good The zoo’s beautiful main
Brazil play Uruguay in the Friday. & Jardim Zoológico: Tel (21) entrance was a wedding gift,
final game. Brazil lost 2–1, 3461 4616. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. presented to Dom Pedro I and
and thus began its eternal ∑ riozoo.com.br the Empress Leopoldina by an
rivalry with Uruguay. English aristocrat in the early
It is not only soccer that has The Quinta da Boa Vista, the 19th century.
set stadium records. Big artists landscaped grounds of a former
have attracted massive crowds royal estate, includes the Museu
to the Maracanã, including Frank Nacional and the Jardim x Sambódromo &
Sinatra, Paul McCartney, Kiss, Zoológico (Rio Zoo). Founded by Cidade do Samba
Madonna, the Rolling Stones, Dom João VI in 1818, the Museu Sambódromo: Av Marquês de Sapucaí,
Sting, Tina Turner, and the second Nacional is the country’s oldest Centro. Map 4 A4. Tel (21) 2563 9000.
“Rock in Rio” Festival. Pope John scientific institution, which started q Praça XI. Open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri
Paul II’s public appearances in out as the House of Birds before (partially closed Dec–Carnaval). 7
1980 and 1997 were also becoming the Royal Museum, Cidade do Samba: Rua Rivadávia
attended by thousands. the Imperial Museum, and, Correa 60, Gamboa. Tel (21) 2213 2503.
Since the conclusion of finally, the National Museum. 7 ∑ cidadedosambarj.com.br
the 2016 Olympic Games, Its permanent exhibits cover a ∑ liesa.com.br
however, the stadium has fallen variety of fields from archaeology,
into a state of disrepair. A biodiversity, and botany to The Sambódromo, or Passarela
political imbroglio between ethnology, geology, and do Samba, is where Rio’s famous
the stadium’s owner and the palaeontology. A part of the samba schools parade each
operator has prevented it collection belonged to Emperor February during Carnaval
from reopening for matches Pedro II, a botanist, and his wife, (see pp68–9).
and tours until further notice. the Empress Teresa Cristina, Before Carnaval was as popular
as it is today, the schools simply
paraded on the streets and
people stood on the sidewalk,
and later, on specially built
stands. As the crowds got
bigger, the disruption caused
by the building of the stands
each year meant another
solution was needed.
The renowned Brazilian
architect, Oscar Niemeyer (see
p299), came up with a perman
ent solution. He built what is
Aerial view of the Estádio do Maracanã today the Sambódromo, which
are allowed in to watch the theaters, four exhibition rooms,

preparations and see how a a cinema, a large public library,
samba school puts on its parade, and a bookstore.
but the schedules vary and The gallery spaces offer a
visitors should call ahead and wide selection of changing
check with each school. exhibitions, from paintings
and sculpture to photography.
There is one permanent
c Centro Cultural exhibition on the evolution of
do Banco do Brasil Brazil’s currency. The cinema
Rua Primeiro de Março 66, Centro.
screens art films and hosts
Map 5 E3. Tel (21) 3808 2020. experimental film festivals,
q Carioca. Open 9am–9pm Wed– while the theaters stage
The Sambódromo, venue of parades by Rio’s Sun. 0 - ∑ bb.com.br/cultura dance performances and
samba schools during annual Carnaval lunchtime and evening
Located in what used to be the concerts of both classical and
was inaugurated in time for financial quarter of Rio de modern music, as well as plays.
the 1984 Carnaval. In order to Janeiro’s Centro district in an Many of the cultural center’s
complement the Sambódromo, impressive building dating from events are free of charge (see
a large complex, known as the 1880, the Centro Cultural do also pp98–9).
Cidade do Samba (City of Samba), Banco do Brasil (CCBB) was The building itself is worth
was established in 2005. This originally the headquarters for a visit; it consists of imposing
space is used by the main samba the Trade Association and the columns and a rotunda (the
schools to build their floats and Bank of Brazil. In 1989 the build- old trading floor stock
make their vibrant costumes. ing was converted into a major exchange), a marbled lobby,
Throughout the year, visitors cultural center with three and grand staircases.
Rio’s Favelas
As much a part of the city’s landscape as Corcovado and Sugar Loaf, Rio’s favelas are famous, largely
due to their prominence in Fernando Meirelles’ 2002 film, Cidade de Deus (City of God). Rio has about
8,000 favelas – areas of informal, often precarious urbanization, most of which lack basic services such
as water and electricity. What started as one or two shacks on a hillside has slowly grown into cities in
their own right. Estimates suggest that about 20 percent of the city’s population may now live in these
areas. Some favelas have grown into giant communities, such as Rocinha in São Conrado, with over
150,000 residents. Others, such as Pavão, Cantagalo, Vidigal, and Chapéu Mangueira, are strategically
located in hilly Zona Sul areas offering breathtaking views.
Favelas are complex and vibrant communities,
whose inhabitants mostly have low-wage jobs
in wealthier neighborhoods, while some make
a living from small local businesses. Many
favelas still have drug lords who run bocas de
fumo, where narcotics are sold. This practice
has been reduced with the introduction of
pacifying police units in some favelas since the
mid-2000s, although cases of police brutality
are not uncommon. It is still advisable only to
visit these areas as part of a guided tour. There
are several good tours on offer. Favela Tour is
run by Marcelo Armstrong, who was brought
up in an apartment block adjoining the Vila
Canoas favela. He and his team have been guid-
ing visitors around Vila Canoas and Rocinha since
1992. The tours offer valuable insights into the
lives of thousands of Rio’s less privileged citizens
and into the corporate responsibility projects
developed by Favela Tour in two of Rocinha’s
schools. Brazilidade in favela Santa Marta is run
by Sheila Souza, who was born and raised in
this favela where Michael Jackson recorded the
video for “They Don’t Care About Us”. Revenue
from her tours is reinvested in the community.
For more information and to book, visit www. Rocinha, located in São Conrado, one of Rio’s largest and most
favelatour.com.br and www.brazilidade.com.br). complex favelas
v Barra
The fastest growing suburb of Rio, Barra da Tijuca houses
the Riocentro, Latin America’s largest convention and
exhibition center, and the Sítio Roberto Burle Marx, a superb
collection of tropical plants from around the world. Besides
Barra Shopping Center, one of the largest shopping malls in
South America, Barra boasts many other modern malls and
supermarkets. There are also Rio City’s most modern
multiplex cinemas and an ever-growing number of
restaurants, bars, clubs, and hotels. Barra is bordered by
Barra Shopping Center, one of the largest
the city’s longest beach, Praia da Barra da Tijuca. shopping malls in Latin America
Map of Barra da Tijuca
A SE
EIR R
OGU TR RA
R A DO N Projac-TV ES D
SER Globo JACAREPAGUÁ RI OS
O
S
Rio Water Centro de Parque dos
Planet Conveções Atletas ITANHANGÁ
Sítio Roberto Riocentro Lagoa de Museu Seleção
Burle Marx (2km) Jacarepaguá Brasileira
BARRA DA TIJUCA Barra Shopping
Las Palmas Center Downtown
RECREIO DOS Cidade
di Jardim Oceânico
BANDEIRANTES e Marapen das Artes
Lagoa d
Casa do Lagoina
Praia da Barra
Pontal
Praia dos da Tijuca
Bandeirantes N
Praia do TIC OCEA
Praia Prainha Pontal ATLAN
0 km 3
& Grumari
0 miles 3
1 L Praia da Barra da Tijuca that has been a favorite with 2 = Barra Shopping Center
Av Sernambetiba. the surfing and hanggliding Av das Américas 4666.
Stretching for over 11 miles crowd, with a kiosk that served Tel (21) 4003 4131.
(18 km), Praia da Barra da Tijuca organic food long before This large and popular shopping
is Rio’s longest beach. The first people had heard of it. center has an impressive range of
4 miles (6 km) are the most built Crowds from all over Rio shops. There are also eight movie
up, a modernday Copacabana, are drawn to this beach at theaters, a medical center, a bowl
with large condominiums. weekends, but farther along it ing alley, and many coffee shops.
There are different hot becomes less crowded and
spots along the length of the unspoilt. During the week, 3 E Cidade das Artes
beach, the most famous of when schools are in session, Trevo das Palmeiras. Tel (21) 3325 0102.
which is Barraca do Pepê, a it is even possible to find large & ∑ cidadedasartes.org
tremendously busy food outlet isolated stretches. This cultural center houses one
of the largest concert halls in
Latin America and is home to the
Brazilian Symphony Orchestra.
With the main building sus
pended 33 ft (10 m) above
the ground, the center has a
1,800seater main hall, smaller
halls, four movie theaters, and
shops, bars, and restaurants.
4 E Museu Seleção Brasileira

Av Luís Carlos Prestes 130. Tel (21) 3572
1963. Open 10am–5:30pm daily. ∑
museuselecaobrasileira.com.br &
Soccer arrived in Brazil in
The long stretch of Praia da Barra da Tijuca 1894. Twenty years later, the
Rio de Janeiro.
* 30,000.
n Praça Pio X 119,
(21) 2088 0070.
∑ visit.rio
Transport
q Jardim Oceânico
Fascinating collection of tropical plants at Sítio Roberto Burle Marx

on the private collection by the
Brazil squad played its first produces most of its own prime- Frenchman, Jacques Van de
official match and won its first time programming, including Beuque. Around 200 artists from
trophy, the Copa Roca. So began its famous soap operas, called every region of Brazil have had
a legend. Trophies, photos, and the novelas, three of which are their works represented here.
more are on display at this screened daily. A complete The superb collection at the
shrine to the national team. entertainment factory, Projac Casa do Pontal consists of more
includes four studios, two audi- than 8,000 works of Brazilian
5 Parque dos Atletas toriums, scenery and costume folk art including sculptures,
Av Salvador Allende, Portão 9. workshops, a restaurant, and the wood carvings, models, and
Open 6am–10pm Tue–Sun. production offices. mechanized sets. These are
Also known as Parque do made from a variety of materials
Olympíco Cidade do Rock, the 8 Y Sítio Roberto Burle including clay, wood, cloth,
Althletes' Park was built in Marx sand, iron, aluminium, straw,
preparation for the 2016 Estrada Burle Marx 2019. Tel (21) 2410 wire, and even bread dough.
Olympic Games to provide 1412. Open 9:30am and 1:30pm Tue–
sports facilites and a venue for Sat by appointment only. & 0 L Praia Prainha & Grumari
large events. The large park's This private garden belonged to Av Estado da Guanabara.
leisure facilities are now open to Roberto Burle Marx (see p299), Prainha and Grumari are the
the public, and include tennis one of the most important city’s most unspoilt beaches,
courts, an ice skating rink, a landscape architects of the and are deserted during the
climbling wall, a children's 20th century. In 1949, Burle week as they are only accessible
playground, and tracks for Marx bought a plantation and by car. Prainha, just 164 yards
running and biking. The biennial started to organize his private (150 m) long, is particularly
Rock in Rio Festival is held here. collection of amazing plants. popular with the surf crowd,
He moved here in 1973 and while Grumari is larger and
6 E Centro de Conveções stayed until his death. In 1985, attracts couples and families.
Riocentro he donated the entire estate to Some scenes from the 1984
Av Salvador Allende 6555. the National Institute for Hollywood comedy Blame It
Tel (21) 2441 9100. & 7 Cultural Heritage (IPHAN). on Rio were filmed along the
∑ riocentro.com.br With around 3,500 plant road to Grumari.
Latin America’s largest species, the garden is considered The restaurant and bar,
exhibition and convention one of the most important Point de Grumari, on the top
center, Riocentro received collections of tropical and semi- of the hill to the west, offers
tremendous global attention tropical plants in the world. spectacular views along the
when it hosted the 1992 United This horticultural paradise also coast to the west.
Nations Conference on Environ- displays the works of Burle Marx,
ment and Development, the from the designs for his land-
Earth Summit, which was scape projects to his paintings
unprecedented for its magnitude and sculptures. The garden also
and the scope of its concerns. has a small Benedictine chapel
The large complex has five dating from the 17th century,
pavilions, and includes a heli- dedicated to St. Anthony.
port, lawns, gardens, a natural
lake, and parking facilities. 9 E Casa do Pontal
Estrada do Pontal 3295. Tel (21) 2490
7 Projac-TV Globo 2429. Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Estrada dos Bandeirantes 6700, & 7 ∑ museucasadopontal.
Jacarepaguá. Tel (21) 2540 2000. com.br
Globo is one of the world’s Almost the entire collection in A surfer at the picturesque and secluded
largest television networks and this charming museum is based Prainha beach
n Baía de
Guanabara
Without Baía de Guanabara,
Rio de Janeiro would probably
have been known by a
different name. On January 1,
1502, the navigators Andre
Gonçalves and Amerigo
Vespucci became the first
Europeans ever to sail into
the bay. Assuming it was the
mouth of a great river, they
called it Rio de Janeiro or
The lush setting of the Mayrink Chapel, Parque Nacional da Tijuca “River of January.” Guanabara,
meaning “Lagoon of the
b Parque Nacional (1755–1830); the 19th-century Sea,” was the name given
da Tijuca Mayrink Chapel, featuring the to the dominant bay by
work of Candido Portinari indigenous Brazilians and is
Tel (21) 2492 2253. @ 345 from q
(1903–62), one of the most rather more accurate.
Uruguai. Open 8am–6pm daily. 7
important Brazilian painters; the The bay is flanked by Rio to
n Estrada da Cascatinha 850, Terra
lovely Os Esquilos restaurant; its west and Niterói to its east,
Brasil, (21) 2492 2252.
and the hundreds of species and encompasses countless
Covering 15 sq miles (39 sq km), of plants, birds, and mammals islands. As well as the ferry
the Tijuca National Park that live here. services that begin at Praça XV,
encompasses the last remaining Many of the park’s 150-odd boats can be hired from the
tracts of Atlantic rainforest that trails, originally made by Brazil’s Marina da Glória in Flamengo
once surrounded Rio de Janeiro. indigenous people and African Park, the center of all nautical
It includes the Floresta da Tijuca slaves, exist even today. One of activities in Rio. One of the
(Tijuca Forest), Serra da Carioca them, dating more pleasant
(Carioca Mountains), and the from the 19th ways to enjoy
monoliths of Pedra da Gávea and century, takes the bay is by
Pedra Bonita. The park’s most walkers up from taking the
famous landmark is the towering Largo do Bom special cruise
statue of Cristo Redentor atop Retiro, a picnic that starts from
Corcovado peak (see pp86–7). spot in the the Espaço
Other well-known viewpoints are Floresta da Tiled map of park routes in Alto da Cultural da
the Dona Marta, the Vista Chinesa Tijuca, to Boa Vista Marinha (Navy
(with a Chinese-style pavilion), the 3,940-ft- Cultural Center)
and the Mesa do Imperador (1,201-m-) high Tijuca Peak. It is in Centro. Centro has a number
(Emperor’s Table), all of which easy to get lost in the dense of fine nautical exhibits,
offer spectacular city views. foliage, so stick to the main trails including an Imperial Barge
Sights within the Floresta da and do not go without a guide built in Salvador in 1808, and
Tijuca include Cascatinha do if planning on trekking. Book in also offers a cruise on the
Taunay, a waterfall near the advance if a guide is required. historic tugboat, Laurindo Pitta,
main gate named after the Another attraction near the which was built in England in
French painter Nicolau Taunay Floresta da Tijuca is the Museu 1910 and took part in World
do Açude, a museum housed in War I. The cruise lasts an
the Neo-Colonial building that hour and a half and passes
once served as the residence of several interesting sights
the successful businessman, along the way.
Raymundo Ottoni de Castro The Tom Jobim International
Maya (1894–1968). The museum Airport is located on the largest
is known for its French, Dutch, of the islands in the bay, Ilha do
Spanish, and Portuguese tiles Governador, while the tiny Ilha
from the 17th and 18th centuries, Fiscal houses a palace built in
and for Castro Maya’s personal 1889 at the request of Emperor
collection of Oriental art. Dom Pedro II in the style of a
14th-century French castle. The
E Museu do Açude castle’s highlights include its
Estrada do Açude 764, Alto da exceptional carved stonework
Boa Vista. Tel (21) 3433 4990. and cast-iron work, and the
Cascatinha do Taunay, one of Parque Open 11am–4:30pm Wed–Mon. turret’s mosaic floor, which is
Nacional da Tijuca’s many waterfalls & free on Thu. 8 7 made from different species of
Museu de Art Contemporârnea (MAC-Niterói), hovering like a flying saucer above Boa Viagem
hardwood. Also noteworthy m Niterói Contemporârnea (MAC-Niterói).

are the wall paintings by * 475,000. @ Ipanema, Copacabana:
The Fortaleza de Santa Cruz
19th-century Dutch artist 740D; Botafogo, Flamengo: 750D, (Santa Cruz Fort) sits on a rocky
Frederico Steckel, and the 775D; Lapa: 775D, 565D g outcrop just outside the city
tower clock and stained- ∑ niteroiturismo.com.br and guards the entrance to
glass windows, which were Guanabara Bay. Parts of the fort
imported from England. Cariocas like to joke that the date from the 16th century,
Ilha Paquetá, north of the best thing about Niterói is its when the French built an
bay, is an oasis of calm where view across the bay to Rio de improvised fortification to
no cars are allowed. Ferries and Janeiro. Whereas the view is protect the city. The structure
hydrofoils cruise up the bay to indeed stunning, Niteroi, or the grew until it became the most
the island from the Estação das “Smiling City” as locals call it, has important fortress in Brazil. It
Barcas in front of the historic its own charm. The city used to helped protect Niterói from two
Praça XV. Crossing the bay is the be the state’s capital, but lost invasions, the first of which
Rio-Niterói Bridge (officially the the title to Rio after both were came from the Dutch in 1599,
Presidente Costa e Silva Bridge), connected by the Rio-Niterói and the second from the
which is one of the longest in bridge and Brasilia took over as French in 1710.
the world at 9 miles (13 km). The the nation’s capital from Rio. The stunning Museu de Arte
project was financed by Britain, The British preferred Niterói to Contemporârnea (Contemporary
and construction began in 1968 Rio, and in 1872, founded the Rio Art Museum) appears to hover
in the presence of Queen Cricket and Athletic Club that is above the neighborhood of Boa
Elizabeth II. still active there today. Praia de Viagem. The illusion comes from
São Francisco in Guanabara Bay is its slender base pillar, which is
E Espaço Cultural da Marinha the city’s answer to Copacabana only 30 ft (9 m) in diameter.
Av Alfred Agache, Centro. Tel (21) beach, but for the most part is Inaugurated in 1996, it was the
2532 5992. Open noon–5pm Tue– not ideal for swimming. Niterói’s brainchild of the acclaimed
Sun. 8 7 & = better beaches – Camboinhas, Brazilian architect, Oscar
P Ilha Fiscal Itaipu, and Itacoatiara – lie Niemeyer (see p299), and is one
Baía de Guanabara. Tel (21) 2233 9165. on the Atlantic coast, and are of a series of his buildings
Open only for tours at 12:30pm, 2pm very popular on weekends. scattered along Niteroi’s coast-
& 3:30pm Thu–Sun. & 8 The two most popular line on Caminho Niemeyer. Its
 Marina da Glória sights in the city are the exhibits consist of 1,000 pieces
Av Infante Dom Henrique, Glória. imposing Fortaleza de Santa of Brazilian art donated by the
Tel (21) 2555 2200. 7 Cruz and the Museu de Arte eminent art collector, João
Sattamini. The view from inside
the museum at dusk, when Rio’s
lights twinkle from across the
bay, is particularly enchanting.
P Fortaleza de Santa Cruz

Estrada Gaspar Dutra, Jurujuba.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8
E Museu de Arte
Contemporânea
Mirante da Boa Viagem, Niterói. Tel (21)
2620 2400. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& 8 book in advance. 7
A panoramic view of the Marina da Glória, Baía de Guanabara ∑ culturaniteroi.com.br/macniteroi
SHOPPING IN RIO
Resident Cariocas have turned shopping into the hippest boutiques, Rio’s residents
something of an art form and use it as an have fallen in love with the experience of
alternative form of entertainment when shopping in the larger malls, such as Rio Sul
they are bored with the beach. Visitors will and Barra Shopping Center, one of the
be pleased to find out just how far their largest shopping and entertainment
money goes in Rio’s stores, especially when complexes in Latin America. The historic
it comes to buying items that have been districts of Centro and Copacabana (mainly
manufactured in Brazil. This includes top the area along Avenida Nossa Senhora de
fashion clothing, beach and sportswear, Copacabana) cannot be overlooked, as it is
leather goods, jewelry, and numerous other here that most of Rio’s quirky, special interest
items. Until the 1980s, the best place to shop shops are found. The Hippie Fair is the best
was along Visconde de Pirajá in Ipanema. place to buy arts and crafts items, trinkets,
Although the area is still considered to have curios, and souvenirs to take home as gifts.
top Brazilian retailers as well

as some familiar international
names. The two giant malls are
not the only shows in town,
and malls in every shape and
size can be found all over Rio,
including the popular Fashion
Mall in São Conrado.
Jewelry
Brazil has huge deposits of
precious and semi-precious
gemstones, and, in some
Rio Sul, one of the two giant malls dominating Rio’s shopping scene cases, holds more than 90
percent of the world’s total
Opening Hours in Copacabana and Ipanema is supply. This has turned Brazil
Most stores in Rio open from the Rio Sul mall, which is into one of the most important
9 or 10am in the morning located on the main artery manufacturers of jewelry,
until 6 or 7pm in the evening linking the Sugar Loaf end both traditional and modern,
Monday to Friday, and between of Copacabana to Botafogo and has made Rio de Janeiro
9 or 10am until 1pm on and the city. Rio Sul has more into one of the jewel capitals
Saturday. The big shopping than 400 stores, plus restaurants of the world.
malls, such as Barra Shopping and cinemas. It also runs a The two market leaders,
and Rio Sul, stay open from free bus service that picks H. Stern and Amsterdam Sauer,
10am to 10pm Monday up shoppers from all the main have stores in most of the city’s
through Saturday and from hotels along the beachfront major hotels, and at the airport.
3 to 9pm on Sunday. and drops them back with They also organize special
Most supermarkets are open their purchases. Of course, jewelry tours at the Ipanema
from 8am to 10pm Monday there are always plenty of headquarters.
to Saturday, with a limited taxis at Rio Sul.
selection remaining open on Barra Shopping Center
Sunday. There are also several (see p90) can almost
24-hour supermarkets scattered be treated as a tourist
throughout the city. attraction in its own right.
It has about 600 stores, as
well as a good selection
Shopping Malls of bars and restaurants, and
Two giant malls have entertainment that includes
dominated Rio’s shopping a modern bowling alley, an
scene since the 1980s and 18-screen multiplex cinema,
offer just about anything and a gaming area known as
people could want under one Hot Zone. Both Rio Sul and
roof. The closest and most Barra Shopping Center have H. Stern, offering a wide range of
convenient for visitors staying branches of virtually all the traditional and modern jewelry
SHOPPING IN RIO  95
large malls to get an idea of Arts & Crafts Markets

what is available. Items on dis The best and most famous arts
play are usually of high quality and crafts market in Rio is the
and are also well priced. Hippie Fair, taking place every
Sunday in and around Praça
General Osório in Ipanema. The
Shoes fair, which first began in 1968,
Brazil is one of the largest runs from 10am to 6pm and is
manufacturers of shoes the perfect place to pick up
and footwear in the world. souvenir paintings or Brazilian
The famous Blue Man line of beachwear Even the local supermarket arts and craft works. Those
is likely to stock fashion looking for authentic, traditional
Bikinis & Beachwear able flipflops, and items should also visit
The girls from Ipanema, the two most Feira de São Cristóvão
Copacabana, and Barra have famous brands (known also as Centro
helped make the bikini a sym are Havaianas and Luiz Gonzaga de
bol of the city’s lifestyle. Shops Grendha. The most Tradições Nordestinas),
specializing in bikinis, swim, popular chains, that a popular market and
surf, and beachwear can be sell wellmade and fair, with arts, crafts,
found all over Rio, especially in reasonably priced music, and food from the
Copacabana, Ipanema, and all leather shoes, are inner regions of Brazil.
the big malls. Famous chains in Mr. Cat, Andarella Flip-flops There are a number of
bikiniwear include Blue Man, and Datelli. specialized arts and crafts
Bum-Bum, and for beachgoers stores throughout the city,
on a budget, Santa Clara 33. including those in malls and
What you wear to the beach Music on Avenida Nossa Senhora
is a fashion statement in Rio, While no one music chain de Copacabana.
so designs, shapes, and colors dominates in Rio, some music
change with every season. stores are better than others.
Many stores offer a special line FNAC megastore in Barra
for visitors who find Brazilian Shopping Center has a very
fashions a bit daring. good selection. Arlequim is
a charming music shop and
bookstore with a cozy café, a
Fashion Wear wide selection of CDs, and
Brazil features prominently in knowledgeable staff. Another
the international fashion scene, top name is Saraiva, which has
and Brazilians like to keep up a large store in Rio Sul. Leading
with the latest trends. Walk supermarkets, especially Lojas Ipanema’s Hippie Fair, a great place for
around Ipanema or any of the Americanas, sell cheap CDs. souvenir shopping
DIRECTORY
Shopping Malls Jewelry Santa Clara 33 FNAC
Rua Santa Clara 33, Barra Shopping Center.
Barra Shopping Amsterdam Sauer Copacabana. Map 3 D2. Tel (21) 2109 2000.
Center Rua Garcia d’Ávila 105, Tel (21) 2549 4820.
Ipanema. Map 2 A4. Saraiva
Av das Américas 4666,
Tel (21) 2512 9878. Rio Sul, Botafogo.
Barra da Tijuca. Shoes Tel (21) 2543 7002.
Tel (21) 4003 4131. H. Stern
∑ barrashopping.
Andarella
Rua Garcia d’Ávila 113,
Rio Sul, Botafogo. Arts & Crafts
com.br Ipanema. Map 2 A4. Markets
Tel (21) 2543 2744.
Tel (21) 2106 0000.
Fashion Mall ∑ andarella.com.br
Feira de São Cristóvão
Estrada da Gávea 899, Bikinis & Campo de São Cristóvão.
Mr. Cat
São Conrado. Beachwear Rua Visconde de Pirajá Closed Mon.
Tel (21) 2111 4444. 414, Ipanema. Map 2 B4. Tel (21) 2580 5335.
∑ fashionmall. Blue Man Tel (21) 2227 6521.
com.br Rio Sul, Botafogo. Hippie Fair
Tel (21) 2541 6896. Praça General Osório.
Rio Sul Music Map 2 B5.
Rua Lauro Müller 116, Bum-Bum Arlequim
Botafogo. Rua Visconde Pirája 351, Praça XV de Novembro
Tel (21) 2122 8070. Ipanema. Map 2 B4. Tel 48, Centro. Map 5 E3.
∑ riosul.com.br (21) 2287 9951. Tel (21) 2220 8471.
ENTERTAINMENT IN RIO
As a major world city, Rio offers a wide take on Brazilian culture, on the
variety of high-quality entertainment. whole, visitors can enjoy a scintillating
However, these are targeted more toward nightlife. The trendiest and most
local residents than casual tourists. The fashionable choices are found in
big local and international acts perform Ipanema and Leblon, and around the
mainly for the Brazilians, and the same is Lagoa. Downtown Rio is also back in
true of what is presented at the theater, fashion, with Lapa being particularly
in the movie houses, clubs, and bars. popular when it comes to clubs and
Though some clubs offer a watered-down bars that play upbeat Brazilian music.
Information Major Venues Caetano and Rival in Centro,

For details of entertainment in Rio is an important venue the beautiful Sala Baden Powell
Rio, check the daily newspapers and tour stop not only for the in Copacabana, and even Morro
or their websites, most notably top names in Brazilian music, da Urca on the halfway stage
O Globo and weekly news but also for all the leading of Sugar Loaf (see pp80–81).
magazine Veja which includes international acts. The major The openair venue of Praça
the local supplement Veja Rio. foreign acts tend to prefer to da Apoteose stages large
The website Catraca Livre is play in one of two big show acts. Even the Copacabana
also a popular source. These houses in Rio, Rio Arena and the and Flamengo beaches some
normally offer an accurate Metropolitan in Barra da Tijuca. times hold free concerts.
guide to the current scene. Vivo Rio, located in the Modern Rio also hosts a number of
The concierge at any big hotel Art Museum in Flamengo, festivals during the year that
would also be of help. puts on various shows. The cover all genres. The largest
Cidade das Artes in Barra is and most famous festival is
one of South America’s largest Rock in Rio (see p91), though
Booking Tickets concert halls and is home to the this is not an annual event.
Brazilians traditionally only Brazilian Symphony Orchestra. Over the years, Rio has
buy their tickets at the very Smaller bands, or big names offered a number of shows
last moment. Even for the looking for a more intimate that primarily target the visitor
biggest events, tickets may setting, also use the Circo who might want a quick,
go on sale only a few days Voador in Lapa. Circo, as locals though somewhat over
ahead. In many cases, the call it, was launched in 1982 simplified, version of the
tickets will be sold at the and has launched nationally vast range of Brazilian culture.
venue itself, or through an acclaimed bands like Barão The glitziest show to outlast
agency. Large ticket agencies, Vermelho and Legião Urbana. them all takes place daily at
such as Ingresso Rápido, A similar audience attends Leblon’s Plataforma 1. The
and Ingresso, operate country the neighboring Fundição kitschy variety show features
wide, and offer tickets to both Progresso. Other smaller samba, bossa nova, and
events and particular venues. venues include Teatro João other Brazilian sounds.
Colorfully costumed samba performers in the floor show at Plataforma 1

E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N R I O  97
Samba, Bossa Nova &

Gafieira
Most visitors to Rio will hope
to catch a little live music and
dance action when they are in
town. While the big Brazilian
acts will be found at Canecão
and Claro Hall, there will also
be a lot of artistes performing
in smaller, more intimate
venues, many of which are
also bars and clubs.
Fans of bossa nova flock to
Vinícius in Ipanema and Bar
do Tom in Leblon. Celebrated
for its outstanding music and The Pé de Moleque group playing at the Carioca da Gema bar in Lapa
a lively bar, the tiny Bip Bip
in Copacabana is a well- Samba Schools Bars & Clubs
frequented haven for MPB. The number of shows and Rio enchants visitors with
Arab is a restaurant and bar opportunities increase the its unique range of bars
in Lagoa that often hosts closer it gets to Carnaval and clubs. Bars go through
live music, including jazz, (see pp68–9), with the “high every degree of sophistication,
instrumental, and MBP. season” for samba running from from periodically changing
Since the end of the 1990s, December through February. hot spots to those specializing
the reinvigorated nightlife in the However, those who are in cachaça and caipirinhas,
city center has given a special not visiting the city during such as the popular Academia
boost to samba and choro (an this time can watch the da Cachaça in Leblon and
upbeat waltz or polka). Lapa samba schools in their own Barra. Enhancing the variety
remains the main hub, with headquarters. For instance, are several pub-like venues,
places such as Carioca da Mangueira, one of the most the most famous of which
Gema, Bar da Ladeira, and traditional and popular samba is Lord Jim in Ipanema,
Rio Scenarium. Clube dos schools in Rio de Janeiro, while sophisticated bars
Democráticos is a spacious club organizes weekly sessions of in the top hotels offer a
in Lapa particularly renowned samba and feijoada throughout more formal elegance.
for its samba and popular the year at its main venue. Then there are the traditional
with a young crowd. Close The samba schools are botequins, or the corner bars,
by, Rivalzinho is a small bar also known to host programs with plenty to eat and drink,
that has a crowd of music lovers featuring performances and well into the early hours.
occupying its pavement at other events at the Cidade Bar Luiz in Centro, Lamas
weekends. Praça Mauá is do Samba, which opened in Flamengo, Cervantes in
also establishing itself on the in Centro in early 2006. Any Copacabana, Hipódromo
nightlife scene. Head to Pedra good hotel will be able to in Gavea, and Bar Lagoa
do Sal, a small outdoor square organize a visit to the technical on the Lagoa, have been
where live samba and choro rehearsals or a guided tour drawing a steady clientele.
music are played on Friday, of the Cidade do Samba. Favored by visitors, Garota
Saturday, and Monday evenings. de Ipanema was where
Drinks and food are sold from Tom Jobim and Vinícius de
street stalls around the square. Moraes are said to have seen
Even when the center of the girl who inspired them
Rio was not in fashion, two to write the song “A Garota
clubs prospered there and de Ipanema.”
still hold sway as the city’s The line between bars,
authentic ballrooms, or DJ bars, and clubs can get
gafieiras. Estudantina, in Praça blurred in Rio, with a surfeit
Tiradentes, dates from 1928, of bars offering dancing
while the 1918 Cordão da Bola and music as the night
Preta in Lapa is the oldest goes on. The “in” venues
carnival bloco. For those who change extremely quickly
wish to learn the basics of in terms of popularity and
dance there are a number name. Therefore, it is always
of schools in Rio. The Centro a good idea to ask a resident
Cultural Carioca offers beginner or the concierge at the hotel
classes for individuals or groups People dancing to a live gafieira show in about the places that may
for samba, forró, and gafieira. Rio Scenarium be currently in vogue.
Gay & Lesbian

Rio has a very active gay and
lesbian scene, much of which
simply blends into the everyday
life of the city. While the cozy
Fosfobox is popular with young
clubbers, La Cueva has a
diverse clientele. The Week is a
larger venue that is popular
with techno music lovers.
A good starting point is
Ipanema beach. The block
running back from the beach,
especially around Posto 9 and A soccer game in progress at the Estádio do Maracanã
Rua Farme de Amoedo, has a
number of gay and lesbian bars. However, the latest multiplex Helicopter Tours
operations all tend to be in One of the most popular tours
Barra, such as the 18-screen with visitors to Rio, a helicopter
Eating Out UCI. Smaller and older theaters ride takes people over the city
For many Cariocas, eating out can be found in Copacabana and beaches, or around Sugar
(see p382–3) is an entertainment and Ipanema. Loaf and Corcovado mountains.
in its own right. Foreign visitors International films quickly make Since 1991, Helisight has
get the best value from dining their way into Brazil, and, unless been offering seven different
at the churrascaria rodizios, the they are aimed at children, will tours that vary from eight
large barbecue houses with a be left in their original language minutes to an hour. The most
fixed-price menu. with subtitles added. At least popular tours are those that
In Rio, trying traditional one new Brazilian film is released circle Corcovado and the statue
Brazilian cuisine normally means each week, a few of which will of Christ the Redeemer.
a feijoada (see p384), a sumptuous go on to international acclaim. Helisight has modern
feast usually served for lunch on Independent world cinema heliports at Morro da Urca and
Wednesday or Saturday. takes over the city each Septem- the Lagoa. Prices range from
ber and October, when the city’s US$90 to US$400.
main film festival, Festival do Rio,
Theater holds public screenings.
Theater in Rio de Janeiro is of Soccer
a high quality, but a majority The mecca of soccer lovers, Rio
of the productions will be in Classical Music, Opera is world-renowned for its
Portuguese. The main theaters, & Dance abiding passion for the game.
generally small and intimate, are Rio de Janeiro has a healthy and Matches take place all through
found in Copacabana, Ipanema, vibrant music, opera, and dance the year, and are usually held on
and Leblon. In Centro, the Centro scene that is focused in the Wednesday evenings or Sunday
Cultural Banco do Brasil is a Theatro Municipal and the afternoons. The city’s four big
major venue. For listings, check Cidade das Artes in Barra. Small clubs are Flamengo, Fluminense,
O Globo and Jornal do Brasil. concerts and recitals also use the Vasco da Gama, and Botafogo.
Sala Cecília Meireles in Lapa. Estádio Olímpico Nilton
Rio has its own music, opera, Santos hosts some of the best
Cinema and dance companies, but also football matches. Almost
Brazil is one of the world’s attracts the very best from the synonymous with Brazil’s
biggest cinema-going markets. rest of Brazil and the world. legendary sport is the Estádio
do Maracanã, which is
undergoing renovation.
Horse Racing
Unusual as it may seem to list
it among the entertainment
options, horse racing at the
Jóquei Club Brasileiro on the
Lagoa takes place four times a
week. On Monday and Friday
evenings, one can enjoy drinks
or dinner in the members’ stand,
and watch the racing go on
An aerial view of the Helisight heliport at Morro da Urca under the floodlights.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N R I O  99
DIRECTORY
Information Vivo Rio Vinícius La Cueva
Av Infante Dom Henrique Rua Vinícius de Moraes Rua Miguel Lemos 51,
Catraca Livre 85, Flamengo. 39, Ipanema. Copacabana. Map 2 C3.
∑ catracalivre.com. Tel (21) 2272 2901. Map 2 B4. Tel (21) 2267 1364.
br/rio Tel (21) 2287 1497.
The Week
O Globo Samba, Bossa
Samba Schools Rua Sacadura Cabral 135,
∑ oglobo.globo.com Nova & Gafieira
Saúde (Centro). Map 4 C2.
Arab Cidade do Samba Tel (21) 2253 1020.
Booking Tickets Rua Rivadávia Correa 60,
Av Borges de Medeiros,
Ingresso Parque dos Patins, Kiosk 7. Gamboa. Theater
∑ ingresso.com.br Map 1 B2. Tel (21) 2213 2503.
Centro Cultural
Tel (21) 2540 0747. Mangueira Banco do Brasil
Ingresso Rápido
∑ ingressorapido. Bar da Ladeira Rua Visconde de Niterói Rua Primeiro de Março 66,
com.br Rua Evaristo da Veiga 149, 1072, Mangueira. Centro. Map 5 E3.
Lapa. Tel (21) 2567 3419. Tel (21) 3808 2020.
Major Venues Map 5 D5.
Tel (21) 2226 9691. Bars & Clubs Cinema
Cidade das Artes
Trevo das Palmeiras, Barra. Bar do Tom Academia da Cachaça UCI
Tel (21) 3325 0102. Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Rua Conde Bernadotte 26, Barra Shopping Av das
Leblon. Map 1 A4. Leblon. Américas 4666, Barra da
Circo Voador
Tel (21) 2274 4022. Tel (21) 2239 1542. Tijuca. Tel (21) 4003 4131.
Rua dos Arcos, Lapa.
Av Armando Lombardi
Map 5 D5. Bip Bip
800, Barra. Classical Music,
Tel (21) 2533 0354. Rua Almirante Gonçalves
Tel (21) 2492 1159. Opera & Dance
Fundiçao Progresso 50, Copacabana.
Rua dos Arcos 24, Centro. Map 2 C4. Bar Lagoa Sala Cecília Meireles
Map 5 D5. Tel (21) 2267 9696. Av Epitácio Pessoa 1674, Largo da Lapa 47.
Tel (21) 3212 0800. Lagoa. Map 2 A4. Map 5 D5.
Carioca da Gema
Tel (21) 2523 1135. Tel (21) 2332 9223.
Metropolitan Av Mem de Sá 79, Lapa.
Av Ayrton Senna 3000, Map 5 D5. Bar Luiz Theatro Municipal
Barra da Tijuca. Tel (21) 2221 0043. Rua da Carioca 39, Centro. Av Rio Branco. Map 5 E4.
Map 5 D4. Tel (21) 2332 9195.
Morro da Urca Clube dos
Tel (21) 2262 6900.
Av Pasteur 520, Praia Democráticos Helicopter tours
Vermelha, Urca. Rua Riachuelo 91, Lapa. Cervantes
Tel (21) 2546 8400. Map 4 C5. Av Prado Júnior 335, Helisight
Tel (21) 2252 4611. Copacabana. Map 3 F1. Lagoa: Av Borges de
Plataforma 1 Tel (21) 2275 6147. Medeiros, Heliponto da
Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Cordão da Bola
Prefeitura. Map 1 B2.
Leblon. Tel (21) 2274 4022. Preta Garota de Ipanema
Tel (21) 2259 6995.
Rua da Relação 3, Lapa. Rua Vinícius de Moraes
Praça da Apoteose Morro da Urca: Av Pasteur
Map 4 C4. 49, Ipanema. Map 2 A5.
Rua Marquês de Sapucaí, 520, 1st cable car stop.
Tel (21) 2240 8049. Tel (21) 2523 3787.
Cidade Nova. Map 4 A5. Tel (21) 2542 7935.
Tel (21) 2563 9000. Estudantina Hipódromo
Praça Tiradentes 79, Praça Santos Dumont Soccer
Rio Arena
Centro. 108, Gávea.
Av Embaixador Abelardo Estádio do Maracanã
Map 4 C4. Tel (21) 2274 9720.
Bueno 3401, Barra da Rua Eurico Rabelo,
Tijuca. Tel (21) 2430 1753. Tel (21) 2232 1149. Lamas São Cristóvão.
Rival Pedra do Sal Rua Marquês de Abrantes Tel (21) 2334 1705.
Rua Álvaro Alvim 33, Largo João da Baiana, 18, Flamengo.
Tel (21) 2556-0799.
Estádio Olimpico
Centro. Map 5 D5. Rua Argemiro Bulcão,
Nilton Santos
Tel (21) 2240 4469. Saúde (Centro). Lord Jim Rua José dos Reis 425,
Map 4 C2. Rua Paul Redfern 44,
Sala Baden Powell Engenho do Dentro.
Av Nossa Senhora de Rio Scenarium Ipanema. Map 1 C4. Tel (21) 2546 1994.
Copacabana 360, Rua do Lavradio 20, Lapa. Tel (21) 2249 4881.
Copacabana. Map 3 D3. Map 4 C4. Horse Racing
Tel (21) 2255 1067/1366. Tel (21) 3147 9000. Gay & Lesbian
Jóquei Clube
Teatro João Caetano Rivalzinho Fosfobox Brasileiro
Praça Tiradentes, Centro. Rua Álvaro Alvim 34, Rua Siqueira Campos 143, Rua Jardim Botânico 1003.
Map 4 C4. Centro. Map 5 D5. Copacabana. Map 2 D1. Map 1 A2, A3, B2, B3.
Tel (21) 2332 9257. Tel (21) 2240 4469. Tel (21) 2548 7498. Tel (21) 3534 9000.
100  R I O D E J A N E I R O
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY

STREET FINDER
Map references given in this guide for enter which follow refer to the grid reference on that
tainment venues and other attractions in Rio map. The map below shows the different areas
City refer to the Street Finder maps on the of Rio City – Leblon, Copacabana, Ipanema,
following pages. Map references are also and Centro – covered by the five Street Finder
provided for Rio City restaurants (see pp386–8) maps. Symbols used for sights and useful
and hotels (see pp370–71). The first figure in the information are displayed in the key below.
map reference indicates which Street Finder A list of important places of interest marked
map to turn to, and the letter and number on the maps can be found on page 72.
Key
Place of interest 0 km 2
Other building 0 miles 2
Train station
Ferry terminal RODRIGU E S
AV A LV
ES
AV
Metro station
3
S
1D
R GA
VA
E
Light rail TE
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Visitor information AV
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Hospital NR
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Police station
HE
Church
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Pedestrian street NJ
A RA
SL
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Scale of Maps 1 & 2–3
0 meters 400 CA
M
PO
0 yards 400 S A
Lagoa IC
Rodrigo NT
Â
de
L
AT
Freitas
AV
Atlantic
A
AV
O
S
E PIT
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Scale of Map 4–5 A V V I E IRA S O UTO
0 meters 200
0 yards 200
Streetwise in Rio It is advisable not to wander Make sure the driver turns
Though street crime is unaccompanied around the on the meter and ask for an
prevalent in Rio, a few darker corners of the Parque estimate of the average fare
precautions could help to do Flamengo, or to walk to your destination.
prevent it from happening. between Cosmo Velho and Various instances of
Contrary to general belief, Corcovado late at night. bag-snatching are common
it is probably best to avoid Robbery and assault in these on the crowded beaches
taking a stroll on the deserted areas are common. of Copacabana and Ipanema,
streets of Centro on Sundays. Passengers taking a bus are especially during the weekends,
Praça Mauá, just to the north of easy targets for thieves, and so visitors must keep a keen
Centro, is best avoided after need to be vigilant. Taxis are eye on their belongings.
nightfall. Lapa, a popular plentiful and inexpensive, Again, do not go down
nightspot in Rio, must be so avoid walking along to the water after dark. Stay
explored with great caution. empty and unfamiliar streets. on the well-lit, busy sidewalks.
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Mariano ARNALDO LUZ
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Brazil area By area  107
rio de janeiro &

espÍrito santo
Beyond the capital cities of rio and Vitória, the magnificent
scenery dominating the areas continues unchecked by rapid
modernization. along the coast are giant boulder-strewn mountains,
while farther inland are the steep, lushly forested ridges of the Mata
atlântica. Spectacular beaches, picturesque islands, and several resort
towns are among the area’s other attractions.
Stretching north and south of Rio City are area, considered one of the world’s
long strands of beaches and half-moon biodiversity hot spots, has an astounding
coves lapped or pounded by a bottle- 950 species of birds and 40 percent of
green Atlantic and visited by troops of the plants here are unique, including
sea turtles. Some surround the popular the cattleya orchid, referred to as the
resort towns of Búzios, “discovered” by “Queen of Flowers.” The largest among
Brigitte Bardot in the 1960s, and Cabo the islands, Ilha Grande has no roads.
Frio, while others lie close to the colonial Steep walking trails leave its only town
port of Paraty, which once lay at the end Abraão, to cut through the forest to
of the mule route from the gold mines still more beaches deserted but for
of Minas Gerais. Its cobbled streets are surfboards and fishing shacks.
better preserved than others on the The Espírito Santo coast is equally
southeastern coast. beautiful with its mountains, beaches,
Inland, the steep ridges of the and small towns. One of them, Itaúnas,
Mata Atlântica begin to rise vertiginously is backed by sand dunes large enough to
towards Minas Gerais and São Paulo, swallow it. A stunning sight here is Pedra
protecting a string of national and Azul, a granite monolith which changes
state parks, including Itatiaia and the from slate gray to fiery orange with the
Serra dos Órgãos, in their folds. This passage of the sun.
Pedra Azul, a spectacular granite monolith in Espírito Santo

Colorful fishing boats lined up along the coast of Paraty, Rio de Janeiro state
Exploring Rio de Janeiro

& Espírito Santo
Several towns pepper the coast of Rio de Janeiro
state. Among these, Búzios draws the most visitors
and has the best hotels and restaurants, while the
colonial town of Paraty, nestled between the coastal
mountains and an island-strewn sea, emerged in
the 2000s as a center for the arts. North of Rio is the
imperial city of Petrópolis. Brazil’s oldest national
park, Itatiaia, lies just off the interstate between Rio
and São Paulo. Ilha Grande, off the coast of Rio, and
the resorts of northern Espírito Santo are relatively
untouched. Vitória, the state’s capital, dates to the
1550s. To its south is the beach town of Guarapari, Statue of King Dom Pedro II, the founder of the
while inland is the dramatic peak of Pedra Azul. magnificent city of Petrópolis
Typical colonial buildings in Paraty
Sights at a Glance Belo

Horizonte
Towns & Cities Preto
1 Paraty pp110–12 Três Rios
2 Angra dos Reis PARQUE NACIONAL Marquês de
DO ITATIAIA Valença
5 Petrópolis pp116–19 Agulhas Negras
TERESÓPOLIS
6 Teresópolis 9,100 ft SERRA DOS ÓRGÃOS
(2,787 m)
9 Guarapari Resende Volta
Barra Mansa Redonda PETRÓPOLIS
0 Vitória São Paulo Duque de
w Itaúnas Caxias Mage
Rio Claro
Nova Iguaçu
São
National Parks & Areas of Natural Gonçalo
Itaguaí
Beauty Rio de Niterói
ANGRA DOS REIS
3 Ilha Grande Baía da Janeiro
llha Grande ILHA GRANDE
4 Parque Nacional do Itatiaia
PARATY
7 Parque Nacional da Serra dos
Trindade Punta de Juatinga
Órgãos
8 Búzios pp120–21
q Pedra Azul
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp372–3 and p388
RIO DE JANEIRO & ESPÍRITO SANTO  109
Getting Around
The Rio and Espírito Santo
coasts are served by the well és
or
signposted BR-101 interstate i m
Mucurici A Salvador
highway. Rio de Janeiro state s Montanha
do
has a good interstate bus rra
Se
service to all the beach towns. Ecoporanga ITAÚNAS
Pinheiros
The Mata Atlântica, however,
Co
is best visited on a tour or with Agua Doce xé
ta
do Norte
a hired car, as are the national Conceição
Nova Venécia da Barra
parks of Itatiaia and Serra dos
Órgãos. To visit northern and São Mateus
central Espírito Santo, visitors

will need their own transport. São Gabriel
da Palha
Ilha Grande can be reached by
passenger ferry twice a day.
Rio
Pancas Bananal Lagoa
Juparanã
Key Linhares
e
Highway D oc
Jacupemba
Major road Colatina Povoação
Minor road Regência

Itaguaçu
Ibiraçu Aracruz
Railroad Itarana
State border
Afonso ESPÍRITO Santa Cruz
Peak
Belo
Cláudio
SANTO Nova Almeida
Horizonte Serra
PEDRA
Iúna
Venda AZUL VITÓRIA
Nova Vila Velha
Pico de
Bandeiras Alfredo
9,500 ft (2,890 m) Chaves
Vargem Alta
GUARAPARI
Ita
b Cachoeiro de Iconha
Itapemirim Anchieta
ap
oana
Muqui
Bom Jesus do Itapemirim
Mimoso do Sul
Itabapoana
Itaperuna
Itabapoana
Miracema Mu Morro do Coco
ri
aé
São Fidélis Travessão

l
d o SuItaocara São João da Barra
aíba
Par
RIO DE JANEIRO Campos dos Goitacazes
r
Santo Amaro
Cordeiro Conceição
a
Lagoa de Campos
de Macabu
Trajano de M Feia
o
Morais
Serra d Quissamã
Nova Friburgo
Macaé
Silva Barra de São João

Jardim
São Pedro da Aldeia
Araruama
Saquarema
BÚZIOS
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Lush Mata Atlântica in Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, Rio de Janeiro
1 Paraty
One of the most photographed colonial towns on the
Brazilian coast, Paraty has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site
since 1958. Though settled by the Portuguese in the 16th
century, it was developed a century later as an important port
from where gold was shipped to Europe. Extremely charming,
the whitewashed churches and terra-cotta roofs offset the
lush green of the rainforest-clad mountains, and the placid
bay whose emerald waters lap at the town’s quay. Paraty has
an impressive literary tradition; the annual Festa Literária
Internacional de Paraty (FLIP) is a big draw. It is also an ideal
base for exploring the dazzling Brazilian coastline, and boasts
lovely pousadas (exclusive hotels).
Statue of St. Benedict, Nossa Senhora do

E Santa Rita dos Pardos Rosário e São Benedito
Libertos
Largo da Santa Rita. Tel (24) 3371 R Nossa Senhora do Rosário
8751; (24) 3371 8328. Open 9am–5pm e São Benedito
Tue–Sun. & ^ Rua Tenente Francisco Antônio.
The façade of Paraty’s oldest 5 7:30pm daily (8pm during daylight
church now graces travel bro- saving time). ^
chures of the city. It was built Slaves worshipped at Nossa
in 1722 by, and for, all those Senhora do Rosário e São
considered not white enough Benedito, which was built in
to attend the church of the 1725. The interior of this church
ruling elite. These would is almost entirely free of
have included the illegitimate embellishment, except for heavy
offspring of the aristocracy, their gilt on the altarpiece. However, it
Sturdy iron bars of the Casa de Cadeia, children, indigenous people, and retains a simple dignity and a
a former prison freed slaves. In design the church sacred atmosphere. Its design
is typically Jesuit, with three resembles the Minas Gerais
E Casa de Cadeia windows in the upper chancel chapels of the same period.
Rua Travessa Santa Rita. Tel (24) and a curvilinear door. Except Every November, locals celebrate
3371 1056. Open 9am–5pm daily. for the beautifully worked altar- A Festa dos Santos (Feast of
&8^ piece in the sanctuary and fine All Saints) here, where they
The 18th-century Casa de Cadeia woodwork on the doorways its remember some of the building’s
served as the town’s prison until interior is plain. Deconsecrated historical past. Mass is followed
1890. Retaining its original iron in the 20th century, the church by a procession where church-
prison bars, this building now now serves as the sparse Museu goers carry figures of a king and
serves as the public library, de Arte Sacra. Displayed religious queen, recalling the Maracatú
besides housing the Casa do artifacts include gold and monarchs of Pernambuco, and
Artesão (Artisan’s House). silver remonstrances. icons of the various saints.
Paraty’s whitewashed buildings reflected in the placid waters at the quay

R Matriz Nossa Senhora P Forte Defensor Perpétuo VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

dos Remédios Morro do Forte. Open 9am–noon,
Praça Monsenhor Helio Pires. 2–5pm Wed–Sun. & Centro de Artes Practical Information
5 7:30pm daily (8pm during daylight e Tradições Populares: Open 10am– Rio de Janeiro. * 37,000. n Av
saving). & ^ 5pm Tue–Sun. ^ Roberto Silveira 36, (24) 3371
Originally meant for the white Located on the northern 1222. _ Carnaval (Feb), Festa de
elite, this stately church took headland, just outside town, Divino Espírito Santo (May), Festas
100 years to build. When it this 19th-century fort looks Juninas (Jun), Festa Literária
Internacional de Paraty (Jul),
was near completion in 1873, more like an elongated squat
Festival da Pinga (Aug), Festa da
architects discovered that town house. Rusted cannons
Nossa Senhora dos Remédios
the soil was too muddy to and remnants of a wall sit in (Sep). ∑ visiteparaty.tur.br
support it. It was left in its front of it. The Centro de Artes
current squat state, slowly e Tradições Populares (Center Transport
subsiding to the left. Today, it for Popular Art) occupies its ~ @ Rua Jango Pádua.
serves as a parish church. principal room, displaying local
handicrafts and items related to
R Nossa Senhora das the traditional way of life of the Quilombo do Campinho da
Dores local people. Independência
Rua Fresca. 5 7:30pm daily BR 101, km 584. Tel (24) 999 316 875;
(8pm during DST). ^ (24) 998 441 385.
The colonial aristocracy Founded at the end of the 19th
also attended the century by three slave women
graceful chapel of who escaped captivity, Quilombo
Nossa Senhora das do Campinho da Independência
Dores. Built in 1800, it is a remnant of a rebel slave
was renovated in 1901. community. Today, it consists of
There are some fine about 120 families, who have
carvings on the retained much of their cultural
balustrades in the heritage. Visitors can book a tour
upper chancel. A to learn about their traditions,
catacomb-like handicrafts, and cuisine, and
cemetery adjoins enjoy an unforgettable lunch
the chapel. Cannons resting outside Forte Defensor Perpétuo in the restaurant.
Paraty Forte Defensor

Perpétuo
500 yards (450 m)
1 Casa de Cadeia ÉDIO
S
M
N S RE
2 Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos AV
3 Nossa Senhora do Rosário e

São Benedito ué -Açu
Rio Pereq
4 Matriz Nossa Senhora dos
IRA-RIO
RUA BE
Remédios
5 Nossa Senhora das Dores RUA DA
CAPELA
B RE U
Nossa Senhora
6 Forte Defensor Perpétuo Matriz Nossa Senhora PRAÇA das Dores
G . DE A
dos Remédios DA
7 Quilombo do Campinho da MATRIZ
Independência RUA DA CA DEIA

R UA
M IN GO
RUA DA PR
Nossa Senhora do
Rosário e São Benedito R A S A M U E L C O S T A
FRESC
U
RU E D O
RUA D
RUA DONA GERAL

R U A D A M AT R I Z
AIA
Rodoviária R DA FERRARIA
O CO
550 yards (500 m)

MÉ
R U A D A L A PA
RCIO
RUA DA LA
PA
Quilombo do Campinho
DA
BA
RU da Independência
R PATI TI
A S 10 miles (16 km)

A N TA
RIT PRAÇA DO
A PORTO
RUA
Santa Rita
AU R O R A dos Pardos Libertos
Casa da Cadeia
0 meters 150 Baía de Paraty

0 yards 150

Beaches Around Paraty VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Paraty, with its forest-swathed spurs of the coastal mountains, Practical Information
lies at the heart of a beautiful stretch of coastline. A short Rio de Janeiro state. n Paraty
Tours, Av Roberto Silveira 11,
way offshore are a string of islands. Until only a few decades Tel (24) 3371 1327.
ago, this area was little-known even to Brazilian holiday ∑ paratytours.com.br
makers. Much of the area, surrounded by a wealth of exotic  Praia do Jabaquara, Praia do
flora and fauna, is protected by national and state parks. Pontal, Paraty-Mirim, Trindade.
The islands can be reached by boat from Paraty town, or Transport
the nearby Paraty-Mirim. g to islands from Paraty pier.
@ from Paraty (every 45 minutes
for Paraty-Mirim & Trindade).
Beaches & Islands Around Paraty
0 km 6
The small town of Trindade,
Ilha do 0 miles 4
13 miles (21 km) south of Paraty,
Breu
Ilha do is popular with surfers from
Praia do Araújo
Araújo Ilha Rapada São Paulo. It offers a choice of
Ilha
Comprida Ilha do simply appointed pousadas and
Mantimento Ilha dos some pretty beaches connected
Praia do Meros
Jabaquara Praia das by footpaths. The scenic beach
Lulas Ilha dos
Praia Cocos running south of Trindade, Praia
Paraty Praia do Vermelha
165
Pontal Ilha do de Fora, is backed by forest-
Algodão Ponta de
Poço das Praia Boa Cajaiba covered hills. Praia do Meio is
Andorinhas Vista Paraty- a long stretch of fine sand,
Mirim Praia da Venda
s washed by waves perfect for
ero Praia
sM S A CO D E
bodysurfing. Laranjeiras, a
do Deserta
Rio M A M A N GU Á small distance downhill, is the
m hideaway for Rio’s super-rich
iri
101
M
a who flock to its private condo-

Pa
r
miniums. Trails lead from here

N
Patrimônio
o
Ri
Praia de Sá through the forest to a string of

A
101
CE
Praia
Praia do pristine beaches to the south.
O
Laranjeiras
Trindade Sono Praia do Cepilho is one of the
C
TI
best surfing spots along this

N
Praia do
A
Praia Praia do stretch of coast.

Meio Praia da
TL
de Fora Cepilho Ponta Negra Located 21 miles (34 km) from

A
Paraty, Ilha do Breu is a tiny

private island dominated by a
single pousada. The owner
Exploring Around Paraty beaches against a backdrop of breeds rare golden lion
The bays and islands off Paraty the lush Mata Atlântica. A deep tamarins, which he lets run free
are a favorite playground for sleeve of water, it is good for on his island. He also maintains
Brazil’s rich elite, who moor their snorkeling. Ilha dos Meros, 9 a small aviary, and has planted
expensive yachts in the Paraty miles (14 km) northeast of trees to attract Atlantic
Marina and fly in to the adjacent Paraty, is another snorkeling rainforest birds. Poço das
airport in their private jets for spot, though marine life is limited Andorinhas, one of the many
a weekend cruise. to large shoals of sheepshead waterfalls in the region, is a
Paraty’s city beach, close to bream and the occasional turtle. popular spot for bathing.
the historic center, is Praia do
Pontal and it lies across the Rio
Perequê-Açu. The water is not
very clean, but the barracas
(restaurants) are pleasant. A
shallow and spacious beach,
Praia do Jabaquara, is within
walking distance of Paraty town.
A glorious long beach, Paraty-
Mirim, lies 17 miles (27 km) east
of town, and can be reached by
a bumpy dirt road. Just south,
Saco de Mamanguá is lined with
old fishing villages and secluded Secluded scenic Praia de Fora near Trindade
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp372–3 and p388 For keys to symbols see back flap
Mata Atlântica
The Atlantic coastal forest, or Mata Atlântica, is one of the best bird-watching sites in
the world, with 950 resident species, almost 200 of which are endemic. It once covered
the lowlands and coastal mountains from Rio Grande do Norte to Rio Grande do Sul.
Today, less than 5 percent remains, concentrated mainly in Rio de Janeiro, Minas Gerais,
São Paulo, and Paraná. Its proximity to the Atlantic blesses it with heavy rainfall. The
vegetation is thick with epiphytic plants, and the forest is particularly rich in breathtaking
orchid species. There are many rare mammals too, including the most endangered
primate in the world, the woolly spider monkey, as well as several striking species of
uniquely colored marmosets and tamarins.
Epiphytes are
plants encrusting Vegetation at
the water’s edge B R A Z I L
every available Clearwater tends to consist
nook and cranny streams cut of fast-growing
of the larger across the thick species that
trees, drawing forest, which quickly replenish
moisture directly receives heavy their numbers
from air. rainfall, especially after floods. Locator Map
in the Southeast. Mata Atlântica
Biodiversity
Mata Atlântica is one of the world’s most biodiverse regions, with some 20,000
plant species, 40 percent of which are endemic, and one of the highest
numbers of threatened or endangered vertebrates in the world.
The seven-colored tanager The cattleya orchid,

is one of the local the world’s most
species listed as famous orchid genus,
endangered or was discovered by
threatened Englishman William
by CITES. Cattley in 1818.
The golden
lion tamarin,
The woolly one of the three
monkey, among lion tamarin
South America’s species, lives on
largest primates, a few islands Ocelots, the third-largest of Brazil’s
can weigh more and in the eight indigenous big cats, are most
than 13 lb (6 kg). Atlantic forest. abundant in southern São Paulo.
The Costa Verde unspoilt by development and

heavy tourism. The island’s
The Costa Verde (Green Coast) stretching south of Rio, past pristine state is owed in great
Paraty and Trindade (see pp110–12)
pp110–12 , deserves its name. part to its long isolation. From
Rainforests swathe the coastal mountains, which reach almost the earliest colonial days it was
a notorious pirate lair, it then
9,143 ft (2,787 m) in the alpine meadows and the forests of became a landing port for
Parque Nacional do Itatiaia. From here, they plunge down slaves destined for Rio and in
into steep ridges to meet an emerald ocean, tinged with the late 20th century it was the
turquoise at numerous long sandy beaches. Beyond are a site of an infamous prison for
scattering of breathtaking islands set in aquamarine and political prisoners. Nowadays
sitting in the deep, bottle-green Atlantic. The largest, Ilha Ilha Grande is populated
mostly by fishermen and
Grande, is particularly lush, with trees covering its rocky small tourist businesses.
mountains and sheltering its spectacular strands of fine Some sixty percent of the
white sand. The island is also the playground for the rich, 75-sq-mile- (193-sq-km-) island
who host extravagant parties in the summer. is protected and forms part of
the Parque Estadual da Ilha
Grande. Its virgin Atlantic
2 Angra dos Reis rainforest, mangrove swamps,
Rio de Janeiro. * 192,000. @ from
and coastal vegetation is home
Rio or São Paulo. n Av Ayrton to abundant wildlife, including
Senna 580, (24) 3367 7826. brown howler monkeys, sloths,
∑ visiteangradosreis.com.br small mammals, and macaws.
The village of Vila do Abraão
This unprepossessing port is is the main settlement. Tour
today mainly a jumping-off point operators and hotels in Abraão
for the islands of Ilha Grande offer trips around the island,
and Ilha da Gipóia. It was once many of them on pretty, wooden
a charming colonial town and fishing boats. The most popular
vestiges of its once dignified trip is to the sheltered cove at
past are hidden among the ever- Palmas, from where a trail leads
expanding favelas. Angra dos Town church in Vila do Abraão, Ilha Grande, to Lopes Mendes, one of Ilha
Reis was once as pretty a town against a lush backdrop Grande’s longest beaches,
as Paraty. The main church, washed by powerful surf. Other
Nossa Senhora da Conceição, 3 Ilha Grande trips include snorkeling at Saco
was built in 1626 in front of the Rio de Janeiro. * 5,000. g from
do Céu or a visit to the 18th-
docks, while the nearby Nossa Angra dos Reis, Mangaratiba or century Igreja de Santana.
Senhora do Carmo dates from Conceição do Jacareí. n Parque Self-guided trails from Abraão,
1593. The colonial naval complex Estadual Peig, Av Nacib Monteiro de lead throughout the island.
lies some 2 miles (3 km) north of Queiroz s/n, (24) 3361 5540/5800. ® Many of them are steep and
the town center towards the Vila do Abraão. ∑ ilhagrande.com.br rocky, but offer wonderful
Praia do Bonfim. views out over the Atlantic.
The most romantic and pretty The most challenging is to the
Environs of southeastern Brazil’s many 3,248-ft- (990-m-) high peak
Ilha da Gipóia, an hour’s boat islands, Ilha Grande remains of Pico do Papagaio.
ride off the port of Angra dos
Reis, is the second-largest island
in the bay after Ilha Grande, and
is known for its stunning white-
sand beaches such as Jurubaíba,
Praia do Dentista, and Norte.
Most of the beaches here are
bustling with bars floating
offshore, which can be reached
by the yachts and boats that ply
the waters of the bay.
The forested Serra do Mar lies
25 miles (40 km) inland from
Angra. On weekends and holidays,
visitors can take a picturesque
train journey there. Train tickets
should be booked a day in
advance from the tourist office. Pristine beach alcove surrounded by lush green forest, Ilha Grande
Steep mountain ridges in Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, Brazil’s oldest national park
4 Parque Nacional Birdlife, too, is prolific in the The park can be crowded on
do Itatiaia park, which is home to 350
species, many of which are
weekends when families romp
in the numerous waterfalls and
Estrada Parque Nacional, Km 8,5 Rio endangered. The park plays a wildlife makes itself scarce. But
de Janeiro. @ from Itatiaia. crucial role in their conservation. during the week the various
n (24) 3352 1292/2288/6894.
Dusky-legged guans wander trails are deserted and quiet.
∑ cmbio.gov.br/parnaitatiaia &
along the park’s few paved The ranger station provides
® Hotel Donati, Estrada do Parque
roads, brilliant seven-colored rather poor walking maps but
Nacional, Km 9,5. (24) 3352 6496.
∑ hoteldonati.com.br
and black and gold cotingas the trails are fairly clear. Hotel
flit about with toucans, and Donati, which is the best hotel
Brazil’s oldest national park, the early morning air buzzes in the park, can organize
Parque Nacional do Itatiaia with the sound of dozens of walking tours and, with advance
was founded in 1937. It was different hummingbirds. notice, wildlife guides.
established to protect the high
alpine meadows and the
gradations of thick Atlantic
rainforests that cover its steep
mountain ridges. It is the only
part of Rio de Janeiro State ever
to see snow, albeit rarely.
The scenery here is
magnificent. The highest
regions of the park are capped
with giant boulders, eroded
into strange organic shapes by
millions of years of rain and
wind. They sit on expansive
grassland coursed by babbling
brooks, which become fast-
flowing, clear-water rivers once
they reach the warmer forested
areas below. Here they tumble,
roar, and fall over waterfalls
and rapids.
The trees around them are
busy with primates. Curious
brown capuchin monkeys
are a common sight on the
numerous trails. Scarcer are
the beautiful and shy muriqui
monkeys, a threatened species. Trail through the verdant rainforests of Parque Nacional do Itatiaia
5 Petrópolis P Palácio de Cristal

Rua Alfredo Pachá, Centro.
Located in the mountains near Rio, Petrópolis owes its Tel (24) 2247 3721. Open 9am–
creation to the Brazilian royal family. Dom Pedro I’s dream 6pm Tue–Sun. 7
of building a summer residence here was fulfilled by his son, The metal structure and glass
enclosure of the Palácio de
Dom Pedro II, who was equally taken by the charms of the Cristal (Crystal Palace) were
region. In 1843, before construction of the palace began, he made in France in 1879 and
decreed the creation of Petrópolis as the summer seat of his shipped to Brazil. Inaugurated on
government. The city soon rose in importance, as trappings February 2, 1884, the palace is a
of royalty made their mark. Today, Petrópolis is popular for its fine example of the architectural
style that emerged during the
royal attractions, as well as for its mountain scenery and the
French industrial revolution.
national park of Serra dos Órgãos (see p119). Although it was originally
planned as a greenhouse for
growing orchids, the Palácio de
E Palácio Imperial Cristal was later meant to be an
See pp118–19. exhibition hall for hosting regular
displays of local products.
P Palácio Rio Negro However, it ended up as the
Av Koeller 255, Centro. Tel (24) 2246 imperial ballroom, and has been
2423. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. 8 the sight of many spectacular
Built in 1889 by Barão do Rio
Negro, a wealthy coffee baron, Casa do Barão
the palace acted as the seat de Mauá
R
of the state government io
AV P i
between 1894 and 1902, when EN a b
ID a n
A h
Petrópolis was the capital of PI a
o
A
BA
Ri
Rio de Janeiro state. N
PRAÇA DA H A
Between 1903 and 1960, CONFLUÊNCIA
the palace served as the Á Palácio

de Cristal
H
summer residence of the

C
PA
O
RD E SIQUE
presidents of the Republic. FE
DR I R A
AL PA
While Vargas converted a Exterior of French-Gothic Catedral de São A U
A
RU R
wine cellar into a Roman- Pedro de Alcântara
style bathhouse, Kubitschek
added built-in closets. All R Catedral de São Pedro
AV R i o
EN Q u
the original rooms are in de Alcântara

ID i t a
A
R ndi
excellent condition. Rua São Pedro de Alcântara 60,

SI n h
LV
Centro. Tel (24) 2242 4300.

EI a
RA
Open 8am–6pm daily. 5 8am

Mon–Sat; 9:30am, 11:30am &
6:30pm Sun. 7
PR A Ç A R U I
Though the cathedral’s first Casa de
Santos B A R B O SA
stone was laid in 1884 by Dumont
O
RÃ
Dom Pedro II, much of its R DO E
N BA
A DO NA
S
C
ANT R U
current structure dates from O A Z O
AM
R
JO
1925. Built in French-Gothic

ÁO
style with a beautiful rose

PE
SS
OA
window, it has a striking interior Quitandinha

decorated in Carrara marble. 4 miles (6 km)
The walls here depict detailed

scenes from the Crucifixion. parties. Most momentous were
The Imperial Chapel, to the the extravagant balls hosted by
right of the main entrance, con- Princess Isabel and Count d’Eu,
tains the mortal remains of King who is believed to have
Dom Pedro II, Princess Regent conceived the palace’s basic
Dona Teresa Cristina, their daugh- design. It was during one such
ter Isabel, her husband Count event in 1888 that Isabel signed
d’Eu, and several other members an order liberating 103 slaves. On
of the royal family. Statues of May 13 of the same year, Isabel
the royal family are also featured went on to sign the Lei Aurea
Detail on the façade of Palácio inside the chapel. The 1848 (Golden Law), the decree that, in
Rio Negro baptismal font is the original. theory, abolished slavery in Brazil.
PETRÓPOLIS  117
Rio de Janeiro. * 287,000.
n Disque Turismo, Praça
Visconde de Mauá 305, 0800
024 1516, (24) 2233 1217.
∑ petropolis.rj.gov.br/fct
Transport
@ Rua Porciúcula.
contain a workroom, a lounge-

cum-dining room, a bedroom,
The metal-and-glass exhibition hall at the Palácio de Cristal and an office. The alcohol-heated
shower in the bathroom was the
Although most of its former P Casa de Santos Dumont first of its kind in Brazil. There is
glory is lost, the palace today Rua do Encanto 22, Centro. no kitchen because Dumont had
serves as an exhibition hall. It Tel (24) 2247 5222. Open 9am–5pm all his meals sent in by the then
occasionally hosts art shows Tue–Sun. & Palace Hotel.
and cultural events. In 1918, the great Brazilian aviator The fascinating personal col-
and inventor of the wristwatch, lection of this delightful inventor
Alberto Santos Dumont (1873– includes everyday objects, such
B R ÃO D n h a
1932), designed and built his as furniture, photographs, and

O
RIO BAR a b a
CO
summerhouse in the style of a various artifacts, including

AN
Pi
French alpine chalet and named beautiful vases and lamps.

AV
it “A Encantada,” or enchanted.
The three floors P Quitandinha
Av Joaquim Rolla 2. Tel (24) 2245
RU
2020. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,

A
Casa de
13
Rui Barbosa
10am–4pm Sun & public hols. & 7
DE
A
Catedral de IPIRANG
AVENIDA An imposing palace built in
M
São Pedro
AI
A
O
de Alcântara AR
PRAÇA CÂ
NT Norman style, Quitandinha is
Palácio de PRINCESA AL
Princesa Isabel ISABEL DE located southwest of the town
RUA
R
ÃO RO
RÉ
S
P E
D
D
A center. Entrepreneur Joaquim
R DE
AN
AV
TA M Rolla built it in 1944 to be the
R UA
EN
LEON
IDA
ha TIR largest casino complex in South
in R AD
n d LE EN
TES America. For the exterior, Rolla
t a OE
ui K Palácio de
Q A
o
R i ENI
D Cultura copied the large casinos that
AV were popular at the time along
Palácio
Rio Negro the Normandy coast, while the
Salão das
Viaturas interior was by Dorothy Drape, a
RUA
I
Palácio
Amarelo
PRAÇA
D RO famous Hollywood set designer.
VISCONDE D PE
D A IM
DE MAUA RUA Quitandinha’s glory ended in

1946, when President Dutra
PERA
RUA
I Palácio
TZ banned gambling. Remarkably
T R IZ
DE Imperial
D ÂN
M
R UA well preserved, today it is mainly
G
used for drama and music

E LO
PRAÇA
DOM
PEDRO II performances. The guided tour
AR ÇO takes visitors back in time to the
E M 0 meters 500
16 D
RUA 1940s, when Quitandinha’s
0 yards 500 guests were global celebrities.
Petrópolis
1 Palácio Imperial
2 Palácio Rio Negro
3 Catedral de São Pedro
de Alcântara
4 Palácio de Cristal
5 Casa de Santos Dumont
6 Quitandinha The Norman-style architecture of the Quitandinha palace complex
Petrópolis: Palácio Imperial

Built by Dom Pedro II between 1845 and 1864, the Neo-
Classical Imperial Palace was used by the Emperor as his
summer residence every year from 1848 until the end of the
monarchy and declaration of independence in 1889. In that
year, the palace was leased out as a college, and continued
to function as such until President Vargas passed a decree in
1943 creating the Imperial Museum. Among the highlights
of the museum, which faithfully reflect the daily life of the
Brazilian royal family, are the Imperial Crown Jewels, as well
as other artifacts, paintings, and furniture that belonged to
the Emperor and his family. . Crown Jewels
The Imperial Crown of Dom Pedro
II is the most valuable piece in the
collection and was made for his
coronation on July 18, 1841, when
he was just 15 years old.
Sala do Primeiro
Reinado
This room features the last
painting of Dom Pedro I in
Brazil prior to his abdication
on April 7, 1831.
. Cetro
The Imperial Scepter, depicting Entrance
an open-mouthed dragon
with outstretched wings, was
made in 1822 for the coronation Ground floor
of Dom Pedro I.
Museum Guide
The ground floor displays royal
exhibits, and prominently features
the Crown Jewels. The first floor
houses the State Room, as well as
the royal bedrooms. The museum is
set in a pretty garden designed by
Jean Baptiste Binot, a French
landscape artist. Elegant Neo-Classical façade of the Palácio Imperial
Gabinete VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The study features 6 Teresópolis
Brazil’s first Practical Information Rio de Janeiro. * 160,000. @ from
telephone, Rua da Imperatriz 220, Petrópolis. Rio de Janeiro City. n Av Rotariana
presented to Dom Tel (24) 2233 0300. s/n, Soberbo, (21) 3642 3471; Av J. J.
Pedro II in 1876 by Open museum: 11am–6pm Tue– de Araujo Regadas, Praça Luis de
Alexander Sun; sound & light show: 8pm Camões, (21) 2742 5561.
Graham Bell. Thu, Fri & Sat. & free entry to the Set amid pretty countryside,
garden from 8am–5pm on Sun.
Teresópolis is known for its
-0
∑ museuimperial.gov.br
artisan fair in Praça Higino da
Silveira, which is lined with more
than 700 stands at weekends.
Just 3 miles (5 km) south of the
town center is AraBotânica, one
of Brazil’s largest orchid farms.
Y AraBotânica
Estrada Francisco Smolka 601, Quebra
Frascos. Tel (21) 3641 2985. 8 7 -
Open 9am–4:30pm Wed–Sun.
7 Parque Nacional
da Serra dos Órgãos
Rio de Janeiro. @ from Rio de Janeiro
. Sala de Estado & São Paulo. n (21) 2152 1108,
The throne on show in the State (21) 2152 1100. Open 8am–5pm daily.
Room came from the palace in & 8 ∑ icmbio.gov.br/
São Cristovão. parnaserradosorgaos
First floor
Created in 1939, this national
park covers an area of approxi
Sala de Música mately 100 sq miles (200 sq km)
Besides a rare triangular
that stretches from Teresópolis
spinet built by Mathias
across to Petrópolis. The park
Bosten in 1788, the
music room also has a offers good climbing and treks,
beautiful harp. including a spectacular 20mile
(32km) long trek between
both cities. Among the park’s
most notable peaks are the
7,475ft (2,263m) Pedra do Sino,
the highest in the mountain
range, and the more famous Dedo
de Deus (God’s Finger), which
stands 5,512 ft (1,680 m) high.
Of the many entrance points
to the park, the most popular
and best equipped is 3 miles
Sala do Senado features the (5 km) south of Teresópolis.
1872 Fala do Trono (Speech
from the Throne), a portrait
of Dom Pedro II in full regalia.
Key Room of His Majesty

The Dining Room Princesa Isabel’s Room
The Music Room Lobby
The Royal Costumes & Scepter The Empress’s Sewing Room
The Imperial Throne The Empress’s Piano Room
Dom Pedro II’s Study Saleta
The Princesses’ Room Senate Room
Imperial Brazilian Jewelry Other Exhibition Space Dedo de Deus (God’s Finger), Parque Nacional
Dom Pedro I’s Room NonExhibition Space da Serra dos Órgãos
8 Búzios along the scruffy roads. Yachts

Rio de Janeiro. @ from Cabo Frio.
bob in the bay in front of Búzios
n Praça Santos Dumont; Av José town, which is little more than a
Bento RIbeiro Dantas 100; (22) 2623 cluster of cobblestoned streets
4254. ® ∑ buziosturismo.com lined with smart boutiques
and restaurants. During high
Since Brigitte Bardot’s visit to season, the resort buzzes with
Búzios in 1964 with her then cruiseship passengers and
boyfriend, Brazilian actor Bob middle-class Brazilian tourists
Zagury, this peninsula has who shop by day on Rua das
developed from a quiet Pedras, the town’s main
string of isolated fishing thoroughfare, sip cocktails in
villages lost in semitropical the evening at one of the
maquis, into one of the oceanfront pousadas, and
country’s most stylish low- then dance the night away
key resorts. Private in the Ibiza-style clubs One of the souvenir shops lining Rua das
homes, designer and beachside bars. Pedras in Búzios
boutiques, and little Búzios’s raison d’être
pousadas cling to its is its beaches, which way to see them is to rent a
hills or watch over the range from half- beach buggy and explore,
numerous beaches. Statue of Brigitte moon bays to long armed with one of the
Beach buggies driven Bardot on the Orla stretches of fine ubiquitous free maps of the
by vacationers buzz Bardot white sand. The best peninsula available from every
Beaches of Costa do Sol

SOUTHEAST
The stretch of coast extending between Niterói and Búzios, BRAZIL
RIO DE
is best known for its landscape, outstanding beaches, and JANEIRO
&
upmarket resorts. Attractive beaches and sparkling waters ESPÍRITO
Rio de SANTO
make it ideal for a lazy stretch on the sand, or a dip in the Janeiro
clean waters. With its crashing waves and a steady breeze,
this stretch is popular for windsurfing. It is easy to find Locator Map
accommodation here, both in busy resorts and isolated Costa do Sul
fishing villages.
Maricá, a quiet resort town, sits at the foot of

forest-covered hills and looks over its own lagoon.
Of its many beaches, the best is 11-mile (17-km)
Praia de Itaipuaçu, which is watched over by the
Pedra do Elefante, a miniature Sugar Loaf.
124
R
MA
DO
128
RA
SER Sampaio
Bacaxa
114 Correia
Tribobó Manoel 106 Saquarema
106
Ribeiro Lagoa de Jacone
RIO DE 104
Barra Nova
JANEIRO
Jacone Praia
Rio do Ouro Maricá Lagoa de Ponta Itaúna
Niterói Guarapina Negra Praia
108 Restinga
Inoã Praia Jacone
Praia de Marica
Itaipuaçu Ponta
Boa Viagem
E A N
Praia Negra
Praia
O C
Praia de da Barra
Piratininga Itaipu Itaipuaçu
Praia
I C
Itacoatiara
A N T
L Saquarema is best known for surfing.
A T All the beaches have powerful
waves and surfing championships
0 km 100
are held on Itaúna, 2 miles (3 km)
0 miles 100 east of town.
other hotel reception. The the fiercest waves and is a all sides, and is an unofficial
peninsula is extremely well popular surf beach. Olho de nudist beach. Ferradurinha, at
signposted, and since it is Boi, which can be reached only the peninsula’s southern
only 4 miles (6 km) long and via a rocky trail that runs from extreme, has clear, calm waters
2 miles (4 km) wide, it is Brava’s southern end, is and natural swimming pools,
difficult to get lost here. surrounded by rocky hills on good for a dip.
Many of the beaches,
including the two sets of twin
sheltered coves – at Praia João
Fernandes, Praia João
Fernandinho, Praia Azeda, and
Praia Azedinha – are within half
an hour’s walk of town. Others
are a beach buggy ride away.
Praia da Ferradura, on the
opposite side from Búzios, is
one of the most beautiful
beaches near town, and one of
the least spoilt by hotel devel-
opment. Fishermen still work
from here at dawn and dusk.
Praia Brava, at the peninsula’s
eastern extreme, is washed by The small, isolated Praia Azeda, known for its tranquil waters
Cabo Frio is a triumph of

concrete over natural beauty.
The region’s busiest resort,
it overflows with locals at
Rio de Janeiro. Cabo Frio:
weekends. There is good surf
n Av Américo Vespúcio 200,
on the numerous beaches and
(22) 2645 2505. Arraial do Cabo:
dune-boarding at Praia do Peró,
n R. General Bruno Martins, s/n,
5 miles (8 km) north.
(22) 2622 1949. Araruama:
n Av Brasil 655 (22) 2665 5700.
Saquarema: n Secretaria de
Turismo, Rua Coronel Madureira
77, (22) 2651 2123. Maricá:
Praia da
Tartaruga Armacão n Praça Conselheiro Macedo
dos Búzios Soares, (21) 3731 5094.
106
178 Praia de Transport
Tucuns
@ from Rio.
104
Praia do
136 Sáo Pedro Peró
138
Iguaba da Aldeia
Grande Praia das
Iguaba Porto do Conchas
Pequena Carro
Cabo Frio
Lagoa de
Araruama Araruama
Praia Seca Figueira 132
Lagoa Praia Arraial do Cabo
Vermelha Praia Grande
Massambaba Praia do ILHA DO
Cabo Frio CABO FRIO
Praia
Vilatur
Araruama, one of the

largest lakes in Brazil,
is ringed by myriad
long white-sand Arraial do Cabo town itself is
beaches. A constant uninspiring but the confluence
breeze makes for good of currents around the cape
windsurfing. It is also provides the best diving in
famous for its medicinal southeastern Brazil and a wealth
mud and high salinity. of magnificent beaches.

Terceira Ponte Bridge connecting Vila Velha to Vitória
9 Guarapari mangroves, and reddish lagoon, Across the bay lies Vila Velha
the Lagoa de Caraís. (Old Town), the most interesting
Espírito Santo. * 122,000. @ from
part of the metropolitan area,
Vitória. n Rua Alencar Moraes de
Rezende 100, Jardim Boa Vista, (27)
} Parque Estadual Paulo reached by the majestic bridge,
César Vinha Terceira Ponte. Although few
3262 8759.
Rodovia do Sol, Km 38. colonial buildings remain, it is
Espírito Santo’s busiest beach Tel (27) 3242 3665. 7 home to the architectural
resort is fringed by dozens of symbol of the city, Convento da
long, white beaches. People from Nossa Senhora da Penha.
Minas Gerais rush down on week 0 Vitória Sitting high on a palmcovered
ends to the sandy beaches of hill overlooking Vitória Bay, its
Espírito Santo. * 360,000. ~ @
Guarapari, said to have mildly £ from Rio. n Secretaria Municipal
thick fortified walls reflect both
radioactive healing properties. de Turismo, Av Marechal Mascarenhas the sunrise and sunset. The
The best beach, Praia do Morro, de Morais 1927, Bento Ferreira. Tel (27) monastery was founded in 1558
lies to the north of the city and 3235 2237. _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar). and preserves fine 16thcentury
has a nature reserve. Praia do wood carvings and one of Brazil’s
Meio, also to the north, has rock The capital city of Espírito Santo first paintings, Nossa Senhora das
pools filled with clear water, and is dominated by a lovely bay Alegrias, by an unknown early
is good for snorkeling. with sheltered crescent coves, 16thcentury Iberian artist. At
Guarapari offers light adventure and surrounded by open ocean. the base of the hill is the 1551
activities, such as rappeling, raft Vitória was originally made up Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário,
ing, and some of the best diving of 36 distinct islands, but landfills the oldest church in the state.
in the Southeast. The town also have reduced these to just a South of Vilha Velha, Praia da
has a lively nightlife scene. handful, connected by a series of Costa is not as busy a beach as
Located about 20 km (12 miles) bridges. Praia do Camburí, the Camburí, but is a good place
north of Guarapari is the nature main beach south of the city is a to go bodysurfing.
reserve, Parque Estadual Paulo 4mile (6km) stretch, dotted Manguezal de Vitória,
César Vinha, with its dunes, with restaurants and hotels. northwest of Vitória, is the largest
stretch of urban mangroves in
South America. The mangroves
are an important nursery for
marine life and can be visited by
boat alongside some of the
bay’s wilder islands.
R Convento da Nossa Senhora

da Penha
Rua Vasco Coutinho, Prainha, Vila
Velha, Vitória. Tel (27) 3329 0420.
Open 5:15am–5pm Mon–Sat,
4:15am–5pm Sun.
} Manguezal de Vitória
Santuário de Santo Antônio. 8 boat
tours by Cores do Mar: Praia de
Sunbathers on Praia do Morro in Guarapari Camburi, Pier de Iemanjá, (27) 999 895
107. ∑ escunacoresdomar.com.br
q Pedra Azul
Espírito Santo. @ from Vitória.
n Parque Estadual da Pedra Azul,
(27) 3248 1156, (27) 997 398 005.
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun.
∑ pedraazul.com.br
Sitting in a tiny island of

remnant Mata Atlântica forest,
the 500-m- (1,640-ft-) high
Pedra Azul (Blue Stone) rises
in the middle of the Parque
Estadual da Pedra Azul, forming
a stunning centerpiece. Its
natural color is an almost
polished blue-grey, but shifts
in hue and shade depending
on the light: coal-black and
brooding under a dark cloud,
burning orange with the setting
sun, or silvery white under a Dramatic Pedra Azul, a granite monolith
full moon.
The small visitors’ center at w Itaúnas sea. Ocelots, caimans, and
the foot of the stone is a good Espírito Santo. * 2,500. @ from
capybaras live here, along with
place to collect a detailed map Vitória. n (27) 3762 5196. _ Festa an impressive variety of rare
of the park. The easiest trekking de Forró (Jul). waterbirds and small mammals.
circuit, around the stone’s base, The smattering of hotels
is 0.8 miles (1.3 km). The one This sleepy little fishing town in town offer dune buggy
leading through the natural lies tucked away in the far north tours, during which you cross
pools of the park is 1 mile of Espírito Santo on the border dozens of towering dunes
(1.6 km) long, and tougher, so with Bahia. Long strands of and empty turtle-nesting
it is advisable to hire a guide. beaches stretch to the north beaches, eventually reaching
Equipment and booking are and south of the town. These the sandy cliffs on the state
required for climbing the stone, have drifted into dunes so large border with Bahia.
and camping is forbidden. that the first settlement here lies Itaúnas itself is surprisingly
The forest surrounding submerged, the remains of lively for a town so small. It is
Pedra Azul is small but it is the original church tower famous, particularly among
the nesting ground for a occasionally appearing from the students, for its exuberant
diverse variety of wildlife. sand after a strong wind. The samba and axé parties, which
Hummingbirds, tanagers, and town lies next to the Rio Itaúnas continue from December to
tiny tufted-eared marmosets which spreads into broad March, and its exciting forró
are a common sight. marshy meadows behind the dance festival in July.
Sand dunes flanking the sleepy fishing town of Itaúnas along the Rio Itaúnas
brazil area by area  125
minas gerais
The state of Minas Gerais is dotted with pretty colonial towns,
set in a stunning landscape of rugged hills. Of these, Ouro
Preto, Congonhas, and Diamantina are UNeSCO World
Heritage Sites. beyond the towns is pastoral country broken
by wilderness, much of which has been protected by a series of
national and state parks, where several rare species of animals,
birds, and plants can be seen.
Minas’s old mining towns are laid out the tablelands of the Brazilian shield. Their
along the Estrada Real, once Brazil’s first cerrado forests are cut by several rivers that
great wagon trail and now one of its major plunge dramatically over the edges of the
tourist routes. The most famous is Ouro mesetas (tabletop mountains), forming
Preto, named after the black gold that was some of the world’s highest waterfalls.
discovered here in the late 17th century The mountains of the Serra do Caparaó
by an itinerant adventurer (bandeirante), protect a swathe of the Mata Atlântica,
who came through the vast interior in dripping with orchids and the habitat of
search of slaves. Gold brought a rush of one of the few remaining populations of
speculators and new discoveries and by woolly spider monkey – the Americas’
the mid-18th century ramshackle mining largest and rarest primate.
camps had grown into prosperous towns. The state capital, Belo Horizonte, is a
Today, Ouro Preto, Tiradentes, Mariana, modern industrial city with a lively café
São João del Rei, Congonhas, and life. President Juscelino Kubitschek’s
Diamantina preserve some of the finest favorite architect, Oscar Niemeyer,
ecclesiastical buildings and Baroque adorned the city’s Pampulha
carvings in the Americas. neighborhood with several structures
The state’s spectacular parks are home before building the nation’s capital,
to the maned wolf, as well as a plethora Brasília. Minas is also well known for its
of endemic birds and plants. The Serra distinct cuisine and its rich literary and
do Cipó and the Serra da Canastra lie on musical heritage.
A breathtaking view of mauve ipêê flowers in full bloom outside Diamantina

The cross at the top of the Igreja de São Francisco de Assis, Ouro Preto
126  SOuTHeaST BRazil
Exploring Minas Gerais

Belo Horizonte, the capital of Minas Gerais, is the focus of
life here. Most colonial mining towns, including Ouro Preto
and Congonhas, lie immediately to its south. Mariana,
another colonial city south of Belo Horizonte, is still a
working mining center. Farther south, and a day’s drive
from the capital, is the hilly Serra da Canastra National Park.
Northern Minas is much wilder, with large tracts of cerrado
forest in the Serra do Cipó and around Diamantina. The
extreme north is arid, dominated by the sertão, a region of Painting inside Igreja Nossa Senhora do
scrub and grassland, whose distinct culture and language Carmo, Diamantina
was mythologized in the most famous of all Brazilian novels,
Formoso
Grande Sertão: Veredas, by João Guimarães Rosa (see p35). Serra
Piratinga
Bonita
Buritis
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Ur
Garapuava uc
u ia
1 Diamantina
3 Belo Horizonte Unaí
Bonfinópolis
4 Ouro Preto pp130–32 de Minas
5 Mariana
Pr
et
7 Tiradentes
o
8 São João del Rei Paracatu
National Parks & Areas of João

Pinheiro
u
Natural Beauty
at
rac
2 Parque Nacional Serra
Pa
do Cipó
9 Parque Nacional Serra
Presidente
da Canastra Tupaciguara Olegário
Araguari
Historic Buildings Santa Vitória Uberlândia
Tiros
6 Basílica do Senhor Bom Ituiutaba Patrocínio
Jesus de Matosinhos, Pr
íba
ata Tij
Ara u co Ibiá
Congonhas
a
ntes
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Ouro Preto, the architecturally stunning colonial city in Minas Gerais

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p373 and pp388–9
minas gerais  127
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Matias Sunset in the cerrado landscape of Serra da Canastra

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Itambé
6,670 ft Poté
Canoeiros (2,033 m) Itamarandiba Teófilo Otôni
mbacuri
Corinto DIAMANTINA
M I N A S G E R A I S
Ita
Represa de
TrÍs Marias Sêrro Guanhães Governador
Felixlândia Curvelo Valadares
Virginópolis
Pompéu
Conselheiro
Pena
Paraopeba PARQUE NACIONAL
SERRA DO CIPÓ Ipatinga Aimorés
Pará de
Minas Caratinga Key
BELO HORIZONTE
Highway
Divinópolis Manhuaçu Major road
Formiga
OURO PRETO MARIANA Minor road
CONGONHAS Railroad
Viçosa
State border
SÃO JOÃO Muriaé
TIRADENTES Peak
DEL REI
Varginha
Juiz Além
de Fora Paraíba
Agulhas Negras
9,143 ft (2,787 m)
Itajubá Getting Around
Belo Horizonte has two airports and is connected several
times a day with all the Brazilian state capitals. There are
few other airports in the state and transport beyond the
capital is limited to buses, which are generally comfortable
and frequent. Another option is to rent a car. Driving is
possible during the day, even though many of the smaller
roads are blighted with enormous potholes.
Silva was a mulatta slave who

became one of the few black
people to become accepted by
high colonial society through
sheer force of personality.
Environs
A string of stunning natural
locations lies within easy reach
of Diamantina, the most
impressive of which is Biribiri,
located 7 miles (12 km) north of
town. A historical village, Biribiri
is home to many fazendas and is
surrounded by waterfalls and
mountains. Next to Biribiri is a
winding blackwater river and
the Parque Rio Preto, a good
Old fazenda in the beautiful village of Biribiri near Diamantina location for birdwatching.
1 Diamantina on opposite sides connected E Casa de Chica da Silva

* 48,000. @ Largo Dom João 134, by an enclosed, brilliant blue, Praça Lobo Mesquita 266.
(38) 3531 1471. n Praça Antonio secondstory passageway. The Tel (38) 3531 2491. Open noon–
Eulálio 53, (38) 3531 9532. building is not open to the public. 5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–noon Sun.
∑ diamantina.mg.gov.br/turismo There are several churches in E Museu Casa do Diamante
Diamantina. The oldest is the Rua Direita 14. Tel (38) 3531 1382.
Nestled in rugged hills and Nossa Senhora do Rosário, in Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
shrouded with cerrado forest, the square of the same name, a 9am–1pm Sun. &
Diamantina is the prettiest and short distance to the northeast of
E Museu de Juscelino
best preserved of all the colonial the Praça Guerra. It was built and
Kubitschek
cities in the state, and also a used by the enslaved black com
Rua São Francisco 241. Tel (38) 3531
UNESCO World Heritage Site. munity and the city’s poor. Next 3607. Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sat,
Diamonds were discovered here to it is an original 18thcentury 8am–1pm Sun. &
in 1728, when the city was a fountain whose waterspouts are
small settlement called Arraial basreliefs of African heads. R Nossa Senhora do Carmo
do Tijuco. Within a few decades A block south is the spectacular Rua do Carmo. Tel (38) 3531 1667.
the mud huts and encamp Nossa Senhora do Carmo. Built Open 2–5pm Tue, Thu & Fri,
9am–4pm Sat.
ments transformed into one of between 1760 and 1784, it was
the wealthiest towns in Brazil. the town’s richest church and R Nossa Senhora do Rosário
The city is tiny and most of its attended by the elite white Largo do Rosário. Tel (38) 3531 1667.
historic buildings and churches community. It is remarkable Open 8–11am & 1–5pm Tue–Sat,
lie within easy walking distance chiefly for the interior paintings 9am–1pm Sun.
of the main square, Praça by José Soares de
Guerra. This is an obvious point Araujo, from Braga,
of orientation as it is dominated Portugal. Araujo’s works
by the twin towers of the largest lie in many of the town’s
building in the city – the churches but those here
Catedral Metropolitana de Santo are his finest. The ceiling
Antônio, built in the 1930s. Just paintings are very
south of this in the adjacent striking. Near the back of
Praça Juscelino Kubitschek is a the church is a portrait
small Museu Casa do Diamante, of the Prophet Elijah
which houses a handful of the ascending to heaven
stones, together with iron collars in a chariot of fire.
once fitted onto slaves. The Casa de Chica
South again is the Museu de da Silva, a smart town
Juscelino Kubitschek, the house one block south
modest former home of the of the Nossa Senhora do
Brazilian president, Juscelino Carmo, is famous more
Kubitschek (1902–76), who built for its former owner than
Brasília (see pp306–7). Two it is for its small collection
blocks west is the city’s most of period furniture.
beautiful landmark, the Casa da During the 18th century,
Gloria, consisting of two houses Francisca (Chica) da Nave, Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo
MINAS GERAIS  129
3 Belo Horizonte the dance hall Casa do Baile,

* 2,514,000. k ~ @ £ with its sweeping curved
n Mercado das Flores: Av Afonso Pena walkway that functioned as a
1055, (31) 3277 7666. Rodoviária: ballroom till 1946, and the twin
Praça Rio Branco s/n, (31) 3277 6907. sports stadia, which are a clear
_ Carnaval (Feb/Mar). precursor to the gymnasium
∑ belohorizonte.mg Niemeyer designed for Brasília.
In the inner city, the Museu
The capital city of Minas Gerais Mineiro preserves some fine
was laid out in the 1890s and colonialera religious art,
resembles a mini São Paulo. including a number of paintings
Clusters of seemingly endless attributed to Mestre Athayde
skyscraper apartment blocks sit (1762–1830). Beyond this, Belo
in a broad valley under lush hills. Horizonte’s main attractions are
Belo Horizonte is known world the lively restaurant and nightlife
wide for its visionary architecture. scene around the innercity
Magnificent waterfall at Parque Nacional Its architectural highlights lie in neighbor hoods of Lourdes and
Serra do Cipó the suburb of Pampulha, often Savassi. These areas have many
regarded as the blueprint for chic restaurants, which often
2 Parque Nacional Brasília. The buildings are set in have live music playing during
Serra do Cipó expansive gardens designed the weekends (see pp388–9). The
by Roberto Burle Marx Lourdes and Savassi
@ from Belo Horizonte to
(1909–94), gathered neighborhoods are
Jaboticatubas, or Santana do Riacho. around a large, beauti easily explored on
Tel (31) 3718 7484, (31) 3718 7469.
ful artificial lake. All foot and make a
∑ icmbio.gov.br/parnaserradocipo
were commissioned pleasant walk.
Open 8am–4pm daily. ® Cipó
Veraneio Hotel, Rodovia MG10,
by the then mayor
Serra do Cipó, (31) 3718 7000. of Belo Horizonte, Environs
∑ cipoveraneiohotel.com.br Juscelino Kubitschek, The colonial towns
and designed by the of Sabará, Caeté,
Just northeast of Belo renowned architect and Santa Luiza, to
Horizonte, the state capital, Oscar Niemeyer in the east of Belo
this 131sqmile (338sqkm) the 1940s. Azulejos on the Horizonte, lie less
national park lies in high The most impressive outside walls of São than half an hour’s
rugged country in the Serra of all the buildings is Francisco de Assis drive away. All
do Espinhaço mountains, the Igreja de São preserve fine Baroque
which run through the middle Francisco de Assis, which was churches and streets of
of northern Minas Gerais. built in 1943 as a series of 18thcentury town houses.
Cipó protects some pristine parabolic arches in concrete,
areas of cerrado as well as and has a wonderful sense of R Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
the watersheds of many light and space. On the outside Av Otacilio Negrão de Lima 3000,
of the tributaries of the walls are a series of azulejos, Pampulha. Tel (31) 3427 1644. Open
São Francisco and the Doce or Portuguese blue tiles, depict 8am–5pm Mon–Sat & hols, noon–5pm
rivers. Waterfalls, plants, ing scenes from the life of St. Sun. 5 10am Sun, 8pm Tue & 7 ^
rare animals, and birds are Francis and painted by Brazil’s E Museu Mineiro
abundant, making this one foremost Modernist artist, Av João Pinheiro 342. Tel (31) 3269
of the most beautiful national Candido Portinari (1903–62). 1168. Open 10am–7pm Tue, Wed &
parks in Minas Gerais. Other important buildings in Fri, noon–9pm Thu, noon–7pm Sat &
It is particularly lovely in the Pampulha complex include Sun. &
May and June when the
skies are invariably blue, the
rivers full, and many of the
numerous wildflowers in
bloom. This is also a good
time to go on a guided tour,
at dawn or dusk, to spot
pumas, giant anteaters,
ocelots, maned wolves,
and howling monkeys on
the quieter trails.
The park itself does not
offer accomodation, but
the area has plenty of
lodging options. Igreja de São Francisco de Assis in Pampulha, Belo Horizonte
4 Street-by-Street: Ouro Preto

Ouro Preto, or “Black Gold,” earned its name shortly after its
founding in 1698 from tarnished gold nuggets mined in the
surrounding areas. It still resembled a boom town when it
was given city status in 1711. By the mid-18th century,
however, the gold rush had turned Ouro Preto into a wealthy
town with fine buildings. It nurtured a generation of some
of Latin America’s finest artists and craftsmen, including the
ecclesiastical painter Mestre Athayde and the great sculptor
Aleijadinho among others. Ouro Preto became the base of
the Inconfidência rebellion led by Tiradentes against Casa dos Contos
Once the gold exchange,
Portuguese colonists. then a prison, the building
is now a small museum
dedicated to
money and
finance.
A cluster of colonial buildings in hilly Ouro Preto
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. Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar
Exquisite artwork is showcased in this
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opulent Brazilian Baroque church,

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resplendent in gold. The carvings in

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the chancel are breathtaking.

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OURO PRETO  131
. Matriz de Nossa VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Senhora da Conceição
Manuel Francisco Libsoa
transformed this once-rustic
Minas Gerais. * 74,000.
church into one of the city’s n Praça Tiradentes 4, (31) 3559
most magnificently
3269. ∑ ouropreto.org.br
decorated cathedrals. _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar). Casa dos
Contos: Rua São José 12. Tel (31)
3551 1444. Igreja de Nossa
Senhora de Carmo: Rua B.
Musqueira. Tel (31) 3551 2601.
Transport
@ from Belo Horizonte.
Statue of Tiradentes
The leader of the Inconfidentes was
the only rebel against the Portuguese
colonizers to be executed. He is a cult
figure in Brazil, mainly for the poor.
Museu do Oratório
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long after the sculptor’s death,

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is housed in the Museu

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Aleijadinho. The museum
preserves a small collection of
Aleijadinho’s works.
PEREIRA
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AN
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A
Museu da
Inconfidência features
relics related to the
Inconfidentes, as well as
drawings by Aleijadinho.
Igreja de Nossa
Senhora do Carmo
The Rococo font (in
the sacristy), door- . Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
case, the altars, and One of Latin America’s most important
the statue of Santa Helena in Rococo buildings, the church combines
this church are all attributed the finest work of Aleijadinho and
to Aleijadinho. Mestre Athayde.
Exploring Ouro Preto Nearly half a ton each of gold

and silver were used to gild its
One of the first gold towns in Minas Gerais and a former state interior, which is largely the
capital, Ouro Preto is built on a series of hills. Steep, curving work of 18th-century sculptor
streets lined with 18th-century residences, many of which Francisco Xavier de Brito, an
expatriate Portuguese. The gilt
have now been converted into restaurants, bars, and shops, carving of Christ on the Cross
link the hills. Within the town, the streets lead to pretty little on the door-case to the capela-
squares dominated by Baroque churches and stately town mor (apsidal chapel) and the
houses. These include the churches of São Francisco de Assis Resurrection scene on the
and Nossa Senhora do Pilar, whose interiors bear the stamp of tabernacle are regarded as de
Brito’s finest work.
some of Latin America’s finest artists and craftsmen.
R Igreja de São Francisco is believed to have been

de Assis Aleijadinho’s first great carving.
Largo de Coimbra. Tel (31) 3551 4661. It was followed by others,
Open 8:30am–noon, 1:30–5pm Tue– including the ornately carved
Sun. & door-case and the front of the
This understated, elegant little sacristy at the rear of the church.
church was constructed
between 1766 and 1802 and R Matriz de Nossa Senhora
seems modest next to many of do Pilar
Latin America’s grand Baroque Praça Mons Castilho Barbosa. Tel (31)
churches. It is characterized by 3551 4736. Open 9am–5pm daily.
gentle curves, from the elegant 5 7am daily. & ^
S-shaped balustrades of its Commissioned by two of the
façade to the exquisitely unified, wealthiest ecclesiastical orders
undulating lines of its interior. in Ouro Preto, this church was
The quality of the church’s intended as a showpiece of
beauty lies in the mastery of its their influence. Pomp and Façade of Matriz de Nossa Senhora
art, created by two of Brazil’s circumstance surrounded its da Conceição
greatest artists, Aleijadinho (see inauguration in 1731, which
p135) and his long-term partner witnessed grand processions R Matriz de Nossa Senhora
Manuel da Costa Athayde of clergy in opulent vestments da Conceição
(1762–1830). The tablet on the and horses in velvet mantles Praça Antônio Dias. Tel (31) 3551 3282
church’s façade showing St. mounted by knights in Built by Manuel Francisco Lisboa
Francis receiving the stigmata diamond-studded robes. between 1727 and 1770, this
church is most celebrated for its
harmonious proportions – the
unity of curves and straight lines
on the façade, and the sense of
space generated by what is in
reality a modest nave and
chancel. Manuel Francisco only
added the finishing touches to
the interior and the sculptors
remain largely unknown.
P Mina do Chico Rei

Rua Dom Silvério 108. Tel (31) 3552
2866. &
This former gold mine offers
guided tours, which take visitors
on a journey through the lives
of miners, many of whom were
African slaves. It gives an
insight into their technical skills,
resilience, and importance in the
golden days of Ouro Preto. Chico
Rei was said to be an enslaved
African king who bought his
freedom in the 1740s by hiding
Ceiling painting by Athayde in Igreja de São Francisco de Assis the gold he found in his hair.
referred to as the Basílica da Sé.

Its exterior is modest, but the
interior has some of the finest
ceiling paintings by the
16th-century Portuguese artist,
Manuel Rabello de Sousa. It also
contains an exquisite 18th-
century German organ and
altarpieces by Francisco Xavier
de Brito, and a portal and lavebo
attributed to Aleijadinho. The
organ was a gift from king João V
of Portugal to the diocese when
Praça Gomes Freire in Mariana, lined by fine 18th-century houses Mariana officially became a city
and earned its current name.
5 Mariana Senhora do Carmo. Both date Restored in 1984, it can be
* 58,000. @ n Rua Direita 91, from the late 18th century and heard during regular weekend
(31) 3558 1062, (31) 3558 2315. sit next to each other in front organ recitals.
∑ mariana.mg.gov.br/turismo of the colonial building, the Just around the corner to the
Casa de Camara. south of the basilica is the most
The oldest colonial town in The church of São Francisco interesting of the civic buildings,
Minas Gerais, Mariana, which de Assis is decorated with the Museu Arquidiocesano de
was also a significant mining ceiling paintings by Manuel da Arte Sacra. This preserves paint-
town, was the capital of the Costa Athayde, who was buried ings by Athayde, objets d’art by
state in the first half of in the church. Visitors Aleijadinho, and antique liturgical
the 18th century and far should not miss the objects. Its façade is crowned
more important than its evocative scenes of the with a medal by Aleijadinho.
immediate neighbor, death of St. Francis, as well
Ouro Preto. as the relief on the door R Basílica de Nossa Senhora
The simple 18th- of St. Francis receiving da Assunção
century Basílica de the stigmata. Rua Padre Gonçalves Lopes. Tel (31)
São Pedro dos Clérigos Nossa Senhora do 3557 1216. Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun.
stands on top of the San Unique Carmo, although E Museu Arquidiocesano de
Pedro hill. From here, window in damaged by fire in 1999, Arte Sacra
there are spectacular Mariana is still remarkable for its Rua Frei Durão. Tel (31) 3557 2581.
views of Mariana’s small delicately balanced and Open 8:30am–noon, 1:30–5pm
colonial center. very Portuguese exterior. Tue–Sat, 8:30am–2pm Sun & public
An important attraction in the Known for its gentle curves hols. &
old town is the Praça Gomes and round towers, it also has
R Nossa Senhora do Carmo
Freire, a lovely garden square exquisite lozenge-shaped
surrounded by 18th-century key windows. Praça Minas Gerais.
town houses. A short distance The city’s other famous Open 9am–4pm daily.
west of Praça Gomes Freire are church is the Basílica de Nossa R São Francisco de Assis
the twin churches of São Senhora da Assunção, which Praça Minas Gerais.
Francisco de Assis and Nossa dates from 1760 and is also Open 9am–5pm daily.
View of Mariana and the twin churches from Basílica de São Pedro dos Clérigos
6Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus

de Matosinhos, Congonhas
Completed in 1771, the Baroque church of Bom Jesus de
Matosinhos was built by the diamond miner Feliciano
Mendes, who, after recovering from the brink of death, vowed
to build a church in homage to “Bom Jesus.” At the entrance
of the church, 12 soapstone statues of prophets from the Old
Testament overlook a garden, where six chapels containing
Painted Ceiling
life-size figures commemorate the Passion of Christ. The Painted by Bernardo Pires da
church is famous for preserving the most impressive ensemble Silva in 1776, the artwork on
of statues in Latin America, carved by Aleijadinho between the ceiling is regarded as the
1780 and 1814. Next door is Museu de Congonhas, a finest Rococo church
painting in Brazil.
museum devoted to the church and Baroque art.
Carved Altar
Designed by sculptor Aleijadinho, the
altar was beautifully carved by his
disciple, João Antunes de Carvalho.
KEY
1 The Crucifixion is particularly

grisly, depicting smiling soldiers
hammering nails into a spread-
eagled Christ, his face contorted
in agony.
2 Amos
3 Jonah
4 Obadiah
5 Baruch
Isaiah
6 Daniel
The sculpture of Isaiah has
7 Hosea narrow shoulders and
8 Ezekiel disproportionately short
arms, and is thought to
9 Jeremiah
have been carved by
0 Joel Aleijadinho’s students.
q Nahum
w Christ carrying the cross,
a sculpture portraying one of the
stations in the Passion of Christ. . The Prophet Habakukk
e The Flagellation of Christ and Aleijadinho’s sculptures are celebrated
the Coronation with Thorns for having an air of theatricality and
depicts a prelude to the Crucifixion. accentuated characteristics, both
striking in his statue of Habakukk.
Praça do Santuário, Congonhas.
n FUMCULT, Alameda Cidade
de Matosinhos de Portugal 153.
Tel (31) 3731 3056, (31) 3731 3979.
∑ congonhas.mg.gov.br
Basilica: Open 6am–6pm Tue–
Sun. 5 6:20am Mon–Sat; 3pm &
7pm Wed; 8am, 10am & 7pm Sun.
Museu de Congonhas: Open
9am–5pm Tue–Sun (1–9pm Wed).
_ Jubileu do Senhor Bom Jesus
do Matosinhos (Sep).
Façade of the church inspired by and modeled on the Santuário do Bom Jesus in Braga, Transport
@ Basílica from Av Júlia
Portugal, with the prophets at the entrance
Kubitschek 1982.
Aleijadinho
Aleijadinho (1738–1815)
meaning “Little Cripple,” was
nicknamed due to the
disfigurement he suffered from
leprosy. When he carved the
statues at Bom Jesus de
Matosinhos, he could no longer
. The Capture of Christ walk and had completely lost
Jesus is captured by Herod’s soldiers, led to the use of his hands. His
him by his disciple, Judas Iscariot, in the students carried him up the
Garden of Gethsemane. hill each day and strapped
hammers and chisels to his
arms. The figure watching the
Crucifixion and hiding his
hands is reputed to be a self-
portrait by Aleijadinho. The
statues are, without doubt, his
masterpieces, and his final
works of art.
Statue of Aleijadinho (standing, right)

witnessing the Crucifixion
The Angel
The figure of an angel . The Last Supper
carrying a cup filled with Faith The figures are so life-like that when they
for Christ is in the chapel of the were completed, some pilgrims are said to
Mount of Olives. have greeted them as if they were real people.
A highlight of Tiradentes is the

magnificent blue soapstone
public fountain dating from the
18th century, the Chafariz de
São José, just across from Rua
da Camara. It features an oratory
with an image of São Jose de
Botas and three faces
representing love, good fortune,
and health. The water comes
from a spring in the São José
hills overlooking the town, an
area that offers excellent hiking.
E Centro Cultural Yves Alves

Colonial Portuguese buildings in Tiradentes Rua Direita 168. Tel (32) 3355 1604.
R Matriz de Santo Antônio
7 Tiradentes smaller streets cross the two. Rua da Camara. Open 9:30am–5pm
* 6,000. @ n Largo dos Forros,
The most important of these is daily. & ^ 5 7pm Sat.
Rua Resende Costa 71, (32) 3355 1212. Rua da Câmara, whose steep
_ Festival de Cinema (Jan), Carnaval cobbles rise to the town’s most
Mardi Gras (Feb/Mar). imposing church, the Matriz de
Santo Antônio, built between
Like Ouro Preto and Mariana, 1710 and 1752. This is one of
Tiradentes became rich on the finest Baroque churches in
gold, producing some of Brazil, with wonderful wood
the most lavish Baroque carvings and gilt interiors. It
church interiors and façades hosts concerts and sound-and-
in all of Brazil. The town takes light shows on weekends. Parts
its name from the nickname of the façade are attributed to
“Tiradentes” (Tooth-puller) the architect and sculptor
of José da Silva Xavier (1746– Aleijadinho (see p135).
92), an erstwhile resident There are various other small
who became a martyr of churches scattered throughout
the Inconfidência Mineria, the town and these are all worth
the first movement in a visit. The best of these churches Chafariz de São José, an 18th-century
Brazil towards independence is Igreja Nossa Senhora do fountain in Tiradentes
from Portugal. Rosário dos Prestos, on Rua
Tiradentes is a delightful Direita, which features some ele-
colonial town. Its multicolored gant statues and painted panels. 8 São João del Rei
Portuguese cottages and Also on Rua Direita is a cultural * 85,000. £ Maria Fumaça from
miniature Baroque churches center, Centro Cultural Yves Tiradentes, Fri–Sun & public hols, (32)
flank the cobbled roads on the Alves, which hosts concerts, 3371 8485. @ from Tiradentes, Belo
steep, low São José hills around theatrical performances, Horizonte, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo.
the Rio Santo Antônio. There is films, and art exhibitions. n Praça Frei Orlando 90, (32) 3372
a craft shop, an arty little café, 7338. _ Carnaval Mardi Gras (Feb),
or a gourmet restaurant on Semana de Inconfidência (Apr), Holy
every other corner. Pretty Week. ∑ saojoaodelrei.mg.gov.br
horse-drawn carriages gather
in Largo das Forras, the town’s The largest of the historic
main plaza, and a narrow towns of Minas Gerais, Sao João
gauge steam train, Maria del Rei is a bustling place with
Fumaça (see p424), with well-preserved colonial
wooden Pullman coaches, buildings, situated 7 miles
puffs and heaves its way to (12 km) from Tiradentes. It
and from neighboring São boasts a number of Baroque
João del Rei on weekends and Rococo churches, including
and public holidays. Carmo, Rosário, and Pilar, whose
The center of Tiradentes is tiny bells can often be heard ringing.
and best seen on foot. Rua da The principal reason for
Praia runs west from Largo das visiting São João is to see the
Forras following the course of Igreja de São Francisco de
the Rio das Mortes. Rua Direita Gilt altar and interior of Matriz de Santo Assis, whose unusual curved
runs parallel to it and a series of Antônio, Tiradentes façade, turtle-back roof and
traveled to Minas Gerais from

Rio in the 19th century.
R Igreja de São Francisco

de Assis
Praça Frei Orlando.
Open 8am– 5:30pm Sun-Fri. ^
E Museu Ferroviário
Estacão Ferroviária, Av Hermílio
Alves 366. Tel (32) 3371 8485.
Open 9–11am & 1–4pm Wed,
9am–12:30pm & 2–4pm Thu–Sat,
9am–noon Sun. Giant anteater in the Parque Nacional Serra
E Museu Regional de São João da Canastra
del Rei
Rua Marechal Deodoro 12. Tel (32) almost 4,920 ft (1,500 m).
Façade, Igreja de São Francisco de Assis, 3371 7663. Open 9:30am–5:30pm Sparse cerrado forest sprinkled
São João del Rei Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat & Sun. & with boulders gathers at their
feet. Around the numerous
intricately carved medal overlook waterfalls and along the wild
a square lined with towering 9 Parque Nacional rivers are stretches of lush,
palms. The square is in the shape gallery forest. The most famed
of a lyre and at sundown the
Serra da Canastra of the falls is the Cachoeira
shadows of the palms form the @ from Belo Horizonte to Piuí, from d’Anta. Here the river’s ice-cold
instrument’s strings. Together Piuí to São Roque de Minas. n Av waters form a series of pools
with the Santuário do Bom Jesus Presidente Tancredo Neves 498, São before plunging 186 m (610 ft)
do Monte Sítio in Braga, Portugal, Roque de Minas, (37) 3433 1326; (37) off an escarpment. The park’s
and the church of São Francisco 3433 1324. Open 8am–6pm daily. & most famous trail, the Trilha
∑ serradacanastra.com.br
in Ouro Preto (see p130–32), this Casca d’Anta, begins in front
church is one of the jewels in the of the waterfall and offers a
crown of Baroque architecture. The extensive Parque Nacional spectacular view out over the
The town has a handful of Serra da Canastra, tucked away park to the denuded pasture
other interesting sights. The in the far southwest of Minas land beyond.
Museu Regional de São João Gerais, protects the head waters There is plenty of wildlife
del Rei, a colonial mansion, full of one of South America’s in the Serra da Canastra,
of antique furniture and sacred largest rivers – the Rio São though it can be hard to
art, is one of the best in Minas Francisco. This great waterway see. Maned wolves and
Gerais. The Museu Ferroviário, flows 1,963 miles (3,160 km) giant anteaters are relatively
at the Maria Fumaça railway through the rippling hills of common here, as are the
station, is a tiny locomotive Minas, and the semi-arid regions pig-sized giant armadillos.
museum housing an old, of the northeastern interior. But The park is especially rich in
Philadelphia-built, narrow gauge in the Serra da Canastra it is little birdlife, and is one of the few
steam train. It sits alongside more than a large mountain places in the world where it is
the Pullman carriages used by stream cutting through rugged possible to see the endangered
Emperor Dom Pedro II when he terrain. Bare granite peaks rise to Brazilian Merganser duck.
Granite peaks looming over the cerrado and pasture land beyond, Parque Nacional Serra da Canastra
SÃO PAULO CITY

Bristling concrete towers extend interminably over São Paulo,
an expansive, vibrant city located on a high plateau. The
impressive number of immigrants settled in its many districts
makes it one of the world’s largest metropolises. Its immense
cultural diversity has blessed it with the liveliest and most creative
artistic, musical, and gastronomic scene in the country.
São Paulo was founded in 1554 by by a wave of public support went on to

Manuel da Nóbrega and José de become Brazil’s president in 2002, and
Anchieta, and established as a Jesuit again in 2006. Regional festivals from
missionary outpost. The 17th century saw all over the country are celebrated with
the town become the headquarters for great enthusiasm in the city’s enormous
bandeirantes, or slave-trading pioneers. favelas (shantytowns).
São Paulo became a major stopover point São Paulo’s vastness and complex
for explorers and pioneers, lured by the character can be intimidating to an
prospect of gold mines and slave trading outsider. Many of the city’s pleasures
in the interiors. The expansion of the are to be found behind closed doors –
sugar and coffee industries in the late in museums, galleries, concert
18th and 19th centuries attracted halls, and in a wealth of restaurants
immigrants from the Middle East, Spanish and shops. A true haven for gourmets,
America, the Russian republics, Central São Paulo is known to serve the best food
Asia, Europe – including Spain and in South America. The city center offers
Portugal – and Japan. a host of attractions, such as the 17th-
Internal migrants from every corner century Igreja de São Francisco and
of the nation came to São Paulo in the the 20th-century Mosteiro São Bento.
mid-20th century. Among them was The city’s finest museum, Museu de Arte
an impoverished metal-worker from de São Paulo (MASP), is one of the high-
Pernambuco, Luíz Inácio da Silva, who lights of the famed Avenida Paulista.
Carnaval dancers participate in the final night of the São Paulo parade
São Paulo skyline, including the Palace of Justice and Metropolitan Cathedral, seen from the top of Edifício Altino Arantes
Exploring São Paulo City
O R DOS AMERICANOS
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Brazil’s largest city covers an area of 588 sq miles (1,520 sq km).
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S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y  141
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∑ cidadedesaopaulo.com
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Getting Around
São Paulo is well connected, with daily international flights to
most major European, and North and South American cities.
Most of these depart from Cumbica airport in Guarulhos,
19 miles (30 km) northeast of the city. Domestic flights leave
from Congonhas Airport, just south of Ibirapuera Park in the main
urban center. There are buses to every corner of Brazil and
beyond to Bolivia, Argentina, Paraguay, and Uruguay. There is an
extensive network of taxis and buses within the city. The metro
and urban railway are clean, fast, and efficient. Cars can be rented
at both the airports, although the city’s numerous one-way
systems and choking traffic make driving a little daunting.
1 Catedral daub shack, built for them by

Metropolitana their Guaraní cohorts, eventually
became a school. That school
Praça da Sé, Centro. Map 1 C3. became a church, and around
Tel (11) 3107 6832. q Sé. the church arose the buildings
Open 8am–7pm Mon–Fri, (to 5pm
that formed the core of the
Sat and 1pm Sun). 8 5 9am, noon,
original city of São Paulo.
6pm Mon & Fri; noon, 6pm Tue–Thu;
noon Sat; 9am, 11am, 5pm Sun.
In 1760, the Jesuits were
expelled from the city, but
At the heart of old downtown the college and chapel
São Paulo, the Catedral they founded remained and
Metropolitana (also known as came to be known as the
Catedral da Sé) watches over Pátio do Colégio. In 1886, the
the large pebbled Praça da Sé, tower of the original church
shaded by tropical fig and palm collapsed and the whole
trees. Built between 1912 and building was demolished.
1954, the cathedral finally Upon their return in 1954, the
gained its full complement of Carved altar in the interior of Igreja de São Jesuits immediately set about
14 turrets in 2002. Francisco de Assis building an exact replica of their
Built by Maximiliano Hell, original church and college,
the exterior is a fusion of Neo- 2 Igreja de São which is what stands today as
Gothic and Renaissance, with an Francisco de Assis Pátio do Colégio.
overly narrow nave squeezed Most of the buildings are
between two enormous Largo de São Francisco 133. occupied by the Museu Padre
318-ft- (97-m-) high spires and Map 1 A3. Tel (11) 3291 2400. q Sé. Anchieta, named after the
Open 7am–6:30pm daily. ^
a bulbous copper cupola. The Jesuit captain who led the first
cavernous interior, said to seat Immediately to the west of mission. The collection features
up to 8,000 people, looks starkly Catedral Metropolitana is a Modernist portrait of the
European. The only obvious the Igreja de São Francisco priest, by the Italian artist
local influences are visible in the de Assis, one of the city’s Menghini, some of the priest’s
capitals, delicately carved with oldest churches. Parts remains, a 17th-
distinctly Brazilian flora and of the modest Baroque century font used to
fauna. The stained-glass interior, featuring an baptize indigenous
windows were designed in intricately carved altar people, as well as a
Germany and Brazil. and ornaments, date collection of Guaraní
The cathedral’s façade has from the mid-1600s. artifacts from the
watched over the country’s The church is often colonial era. A model
largest public protests, when referred to as O reproduction
crowds gathered in the square Convento São of São Paulo in the
outside the cathedral in the late Francisco after Visão de Anchieta by 16th century is also
1980s to demand the end of the exquisite Baroque Menghini on display.
military rule. convent that stood
here until the 1930s,
when it was demolished 4 Mosteiro São
along with parts of the Bento
colonial center.
Largo de São Bento. Map 1 C2.
Tel (11) 3328 8799. q São Bento.
Open 6am–6:40pm Mon–Fri, 6am–
3 Pátio do Colégio noon & 4–6pm Sat & Sun. 5 7am,
Praça Pátio do Colégio 2. Map 2 D3. 1pm & 6pm Mon–Fri, 6am, 7am Sat,
q Sé. Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. 8:30am, 10am & 6pm (masses in Latin)
5 noon Tue–Fri, 10am–noon Sun. Sun. ∑ mosteiro.org.br
Museu Padre Anchieta: Tel (11) 3105
6899. & ^ Brazil is the only South
American country where the
Located within easy walking Benedictine order gained a
distance from the Praça da Sé, foothold, arriving in São Paulo
the Pátio do Colégio has an on this site in 1598. The current
interesting history behind it. building, however, dates from
On January 25, 1554, the Jesuits the 1920s and was designed
inaugurated the Colégio de São by Munich-based architect
Paulo de Piratinga on a small Richard Bernl.
Exterior of São Paulo Catedral bluff overlooking an extensive The monastery has a
Metropolitana, Praça da Sé forest. The original wattle-and- beautifully painted Beuronese
interior. This style is named

after techniques developed in
the late 19th and early 20th
centuries by Benedictines in
the monastery of Beuron in
southwest Germany. It is
characterized by a compressed
perspective and vivid colors.
The finest representation of
Beuronese art in Latin America
is visible inside this beautiful
Blessed Sacrament chapel.
Scenes from the life of St.
Benedict are depicted on the View of the exterior of Theatro Municipal
stained-glass windows and the
ceiling. The church has a large Janeiro. The theater was modeled 8 Edifício Itália
organ, which is the centerpiece on the Paris Opera and the city Av Ipiranga 344. Map 1 B2 & B3.
of a festival held in November waited in fevered anticipation for Tel (11) 2189 2929. Open noon–5pm
and December every year. There its inaugural night. It opened on daily. q República. &
is also a shop selling sweets and September 12, 1911, with a
cakes made by the monks. production of Hamlet, starring The Edifíco Itália, one of
the Italian baritone Titta Ruffo. São Paulo’s tallest buildings,
Nijinski, Caruso, and Toscanini was built in 1965 to honor
have all performed here. Visits are the thousands of Italian
limited, so book ahead. immigrants to the city. The
famous postcard shot of
Oscar Niemeyer’s Edífico
6 Igreja da Copan with the vast environs
Consolação of São Paulo behind was
taken from the Terraço Itália
Rua da Consolação 585. Map 1 C3.
restaurant (see p389) and
Tel (11) 3256 5356. q Anhangabaú.
viewing deck on the 45th
Open 8am–7pm. ^
floor of the building. People
Designed by Maximiliano Hell, do not usually come for the
the architect of the Catedral food – most come for the
Metropolitana, the Igreja da unbeatable view of this incre-
Consolação is a similar fusion of dible city, a view that is second
European styles. Some of the only to that from the Edifício
19th-century master Benedito Altino Arantes. Tickets include a
Calixto’s (see p34) best religious glass of sparkling wine.
The 1920s interior of Mosteiro São Bento, paintings adorn the Blessed
with its painted ceiling Sacrament chapel.
9 Edifício Altino
5 Theatro
Arantes
7 Centro Cultural
Municipal Banco do Brasil
Rua João Bricola 24. Map 1 C3.
q São Bento. Closed for renovation.
Praça Ramos de Azevedo. Map 1 C2. Rua Álvares Penteado 112. Map 1 C3.
Tel (11) 3053 2090. q Anhangabaú. ^
Also known as Edifício Banespa
Tel (11) 3113 3649. q São Bento/Sé. due to its original function as
8 English: 11am, 5pm Tue–Fri; noon
Open 9am–9pm Wed–Mon.^ the headquarters of São Paulo’s
Sat. Portuguese: 11am, 3pm, 5pm Tue– ∑ bb.com.br/cultura
Fri; 11am, noon, 2pm, 3pm Sat & pub- State Bank, this 161-m- (527-ft-)
lic hols. ∑ theatromunicipal.org.br This early 20th-century building high edifice was built in 1939
with a lovely Art Deco glass ceil- and inaugurated in 1947,
Located near the Parque ing was once the Bank of Brazil. resembling a miniature version
Anhangabaú, São Paulo’s largest It now houses the Centro Cultural of New York’s Empire State
central park with some pretty Banco do Brasil. Inside, there are Building. It was for a long time
fountains, the Theatro Municipal a series of spaces devoted to Brazil’s largest concrete
overlooks the Praça Ramos. The showing contemporary arts – building and the tallest
theater is one of the continent’s from photography, installation skyscraper in Latin America
most important venues, hosting works, and fine art to cinema until 1968. It is now occupied
a program of events. Opera and and theater. The exhibition spaces by Santander bank. The
theater were very popular among are contained within the bank’s building and observation deck
the elite in turn-of-the-19th- original vaults, some of which are currently closed to the
century São Paulo and Rio de retain their massive iron doors. public for renovations.
0 Pinacoteca de São Paulo

The Pinacoteca is a significant repository of Brazilian art,
with an archive of over 10,000 paintings and sculptures
representing all major Brazilian artists and artistic
movements. The galleries trace the evolution of Brazilian
styles from the 19th-century colonial period to Modern
and contemporary art, including the 1960s Avant Garde.
In the mid-1990s, the Pinacoteca was magnificently . Composição
renovated by the noted architect Paulo Mendes de This Brazilian Constructivist
Rocha, who filled the original Neo-Classical building composition by Alfredo Volpi (1896–
with carefully positioned partitions and capped it with 1988) fuses European style with
tropical colors.
a translucent roof. The magical sense of space and
light perfectly complements the intensity of
color and tone which characterizes Brazilian art.
Serie Bahia Musa da Paz

Belonging to an infuential
group of Paulista artists,
José Pancetti (1902–58)
rejected a European
academic approach to
art and strove to return
to a more naive style.
Entrance
Octagonal
Exhibition Hall
Façade
The Pinacoteca was tastefully refurbished
in the 1990s, leaving only the shell of the
original building.
Auditorium
Gallery Guide
The Pinacoteca’s permanent collection forms long-term First floor
displays, which change periodically. The third-floor galleries
cover the history of Brazilian art since the colonial period.
The second floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions and
Modern Brazilian art. The first floor features an educational
area, which provides activities for families, and a café.
. Tropical VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Portraying a caboclo
woman in a tropical Practical Information
setting, this painting Praça da Luz 2, Jardim da Luz.
by Anita Malfatti Map 1 C1.
(1889–1964) is a fine Tel (11) 3324 1000.
example of Brazilian Open 10am–5:30pm Wed–Mon.
Modernism. 7-
∑ pinacoteca.org.br
Transport
q Luz. @
Third floor
Formal
portraits of
Portuguese
colonial dig-
nitaries are the
most European
of the Brazilian
paintings.
. Caipira Picando Fumo

Almeida Júnior (1850–99)
was one of the first to paint
Brazil’s rich tropical light and
everyday Brazilians.
Génio do Repouso
Eterno
This statue is regarded
by many to be one of
the most beautiful
works of legendary
French sculptor,
Auguste Rodin
Second floor (1840–1917).
Pintura (1969)
Brazilian artist Tomie Ohtake (1913–
2015), mother of the famous
architect Ruy Ohtake, introduced
Japanese elements into Brazilian art.
Key
19th-Century Brazilian Art Brazilian Sculpture
Landscapes (1850–1930) Brazilian Modern Art
Sculpture Yard Temporary Exhibition Gallery
Second floor, with a temporary Brazilian Contemporary Art Educational area
exhibition area Brazilian 1960s Avant-Garde Non-Exhibition Space
e Estação
Pinacoteca
Largo General Osório 66. Map 1 C1.
Tel (11) 3335 4990. q Luz. @
Open 10am–5:30pm Wed–Mon.
∑ pinacoteca.org.br
Located in an attractive early

20th-century Neo-Classical
building, the annex of the
Pinacoteca do Estado
(see pp144–5) is one of the
Elegant façade of the Mosteiro da Luz, housing the Museu Arte Sacra city’s best contemporary
exhibition spaces. Some of
q Museu Arte Sacra features works by 18th-century Brazil’s finest Modernist
Av Tiradentes 676. Tel (11) 3326 3336.
masters such as Benedito paintings, taken from the
q Tiradentes. @ Circular Turista. Calixto and Mestre Athayde. archive of the Fundação
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & free Of special significance is José e Paulina Nemirovsky,
Sat ∑ museuartesacra.org.br the one that depicts Padre are displayed here.
Anchieta taming a wild ocelot An important milestone
Often overlooked by visitors, with the cross, a symbol of in Brazilian Modernism is
this small museum boasts the Jesuit founder of São Antropofagia by Tarsila do
one of the finest collections Paulo’s mission to the indig- Amaral (1886–1973), the
of religious artifacts in the enous Brazilians. founder of the vital
Americas. The exhibits are antropofagismo movement
housed in a large wing of (see pp34–5). There are also
a distinguished colonial w Estação da Luz key pieces by Candido
building, the early 19th-century Praça da Luz 1. Map 1 C1. Tel 0800 550 Portinari, Anita Malfatti,
Mosteiro da Luz. Restful and 121. q Luz. @ ∑ estacaodaluz. and Lasar Segall. International
serene, the entire complex is org.br art is represented by Marc
a peaceful haven from the Chagall, Pablo Picasso, and
frenetic chaos of São Paulo. One of modern Brazil’s Georges Braque, among others.
The museum’s priceless prominent symbols of industrial
objects and artifacts include progress, São Paulo’s railway
lavish monstrances (ceremonial station was built in 1901. r Sala São Paulo
vessels), ecclesiastical jewelry, The design of the Estação Praça Júlio Prestes 16. Map 1 B1.
and church altarpieces. Of da Luz is a homage to the Tel (11) 3223 3966. q Luz. @
particular note is the statuary, English railroad, and imitates Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri. 8 by
with pieces by many of the the Victorian eclectic style. appointment a day in advance, 1pm
most important Brazilian Just like all of São Paulo’s & 4:30pm Mon–Fri, 1:30pm Sat,
Baroque masters such as railways, Estação da Luz was 1pm Sun. ∑ salasaopaulo.art.br
Aleijadinho, Mestre Valentim, the creation of Brazil’s first
and Frei Agostinho da Piedade. industrialist, the Visconde de Known for the finest acoustics
One of the gems is the Mauá. After a visit to London in in Latin America, this concert
18th-century Mary Magdalene the 1840s, Mauá was convinced hall was inaugurated in 1997.
by Francisco Xavier de Brito, that Brazil’s future lay in rapid It is the city’s premier classical
which displays an effortless industrialization. He founded music venue for symphonic and
unity of motion and melancholy an ironworks, employing some chamber music and the home
contemplation. Among the 300 workers from England of Brazil’s top orchestra, the
sculptures, mostly by anon- and Scotland. In 1854, Mauá Orquestra Sinfônica do Estado
ymous Brazilian indigenous opened his first railway, de São Paulo (OSESP).
artists, two pieces which was designed and The orchestra’s artistic
stand out – a majestic run by the British. It linked director Arthur Nestrovski
African-Brazilian São Jundiaí, in the heart of is a composer and classical
Bento (with blue eyes) São Paulo’s coffee region, guitarist specializing in
and an exquisitely with Santos on the coast. Brazilian music.
detailed 18th-century Today, the Estação da Luz The grand railway building,
Neapolitan nativity serves only the São Paulo the Estação Júlio Prestes, in
crib comprising city area. Romanesque which the hall is housed, was
around 2,000 pieces, red-brick arches and designed in 1938 by Brazilian
which is the most stately cast-iron pillars architect Cristiano Stockler.
important of its support a single Largely inspired by New York,
kind outside Naples. São Bento with baby, vault that covers four it contrasts strongly with the
The collection also Museu Arte Sacra tracks and platforms. English Estação da Luz.
t Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Entrepreneur Assis Chateaubriand founded MASP in 1947 Practical Information

as Brazil's first modern museum, and invited renowned Av Paulista 1578. Map 4 F2. Tel (11)
3149 5959. Open 10am–6pm Tue,
Italian critic and collector Pietro Maria Bardi to manage it. Wed & Fri–Sun, 10am–8pm Thu.
Bardi's first acquisitions included the now priceless works by & free admission on Tue &
Degas, Van Gogh, Velázquez, Rembrandt, Turner, Titian, Bellini, Thu after 5pm. 87 0
and Raphael. Bought at absurdly low prices at the time, these ∑ masp.art.br
compose the Southern hemisphere's most significant collection Transport

of European art, along with works from Africa, Asia, and the q Trianon–Masp.
Americas. The extensive collection is constantly rotating, as

works are taken in and out of the archive. The museum also
includes a cultural center that hosts courses, seminars, and talks.
artists, crafts for sale, and

young crowds having fun
and watching passers-by.
The Collections
There are more than 8,000 works
in the collections, including
paintings, photographs,
sculptures, and installations. The Schoolboy by van Gogh (1888),
The oldest item is the statue of Northern European Collection
the goddess Hygieia (c. 400 BC).
Among recent artworks is
Paulistano Marcelo Cidade's Exhibition Design
Tempo Suspenso de um Estado Instead of being hung on walls,
Resurrection of Christ (1501/1502) by Provisório (2011). the artworks in the permanent
Raphael, Italian collection The museum has a number of collection are mounted on
important pieces by Northern panels of glass fixed into
European and Spanish artists concrete plinths designed by
The Building such as Bosch, Rembrandt, Lina Bo Bardi, and scattered
Inaugurated in 1968, the current Velázquez, El Greco, and Goya. around the entire second floor.
home of the museum is actually There are also works by There are no divisions of rooms
its second address. Italian- prominent Brazilian Modernists or rigid timelines. The art seems
Brazilian architect Lina Bo Bardi’s such as Brecheret, Tomie to float in air, providing visitors
striking building focuses on the Ohtake, and Candido Portinari. with a unique experience of
use of glass and concrete in the Italian artists in the collections walking among different artistic
creation of a Brutalist structure include a range of Renaissance ages and cultures, freed from
with a light interior (see p11). names, such as Mantegna, the weight of chronological
The plaza below the museum, Raphael, and Tintoretto. Modern linearity. Captions are displayed
popularly known as Vão Livre French art is represented by on the backs of the works.
("free span"), is intended as a works by Millet, Seurat, Manet, The museum's three other
public square. This covered Cezanne, Toulouse-Lautrec, Van floors have been assigned to
space is often full of street Gogh, Chagall and Picasso. temporary exhibitions.
Works of art displayed on iconic glass easels designed by Lina Bo Bardi at MASP
1960s. Today, only cinemas in and around Paulista,

one mansion rem- along the avenue itself, in the
ains, the French-style Shopping Paulista Mall, near
Casa das Rosas, Brigadeiro metro, and dotted
which is now a cul- along Rua da Consolação, near
tural center managed Paulista’s northern end.
and run by São Paulo Together with the Praça da
state. Interesting art Sé (see p142), Paulista is one of
shows are often held the city’s most important venues
here, but the 1935 for protests and celebrations.
mansion itself is well For a taste of Avenida Paulista
worth visiting for its as it once was, head a few
pretty rose garden blocks south, across the chic
and Art Nouveau shopping streets of the Jardins
stained-glass window. and into Jardim Europa. Here,
A stroll along along Avenida Brasil and
Paulista is an Avenida Groenlandia, the
attraction in its own stately homes of the city’s
right, especially on current rich can be seen.
Sundays, when it
becomes a pedes- P Casa das Rosas
trian park for families, Av Paulista 37. Tel (11) 3285 6986.
skaters, and tourists. Open 10am–10pm Tue–Sat,
Aerial view of the exclusive Avenida Paulista There’s also a range 10am–6pm Sun & public hols.
of museums, large E Centro Cultural FIESP
y Avenida Paulista book shops, and cultural centers. Av Paulista 1313. Tel (11) 3146 7406.
The Instituto Itaú Cultural, near Open 1–9pm Wed–Sat, 10am–7:30pm
Map 4 E2, F2 & F3. q Brigadeiro/
Trianon-Masp/Consolação. _ Gay Brigadeiro metro station, hosts a Sun.
Pride (Jun). range of concerts and exhibitions,
all of which are free of charge. It E Instituto Itaú Cultural
Modern São Paulo’s first symbol also houses the largest currency Av Paulista 149. Tel (11) 2168 1777.
of prosperity, Avenida Paulista museum in the country, the Itaú Open 9am–8pm Tue–Fri, 11am–8pm
Sat & Sun.
and its crowded skyscrapers Numismática. The Centro Cultural
continue to attest to Brazil’s FIESP, at Trianon-Masp, is a busi- Y Parque Trianon
status as South America’s major ness headquarters with a small Rua Peixoto Gomide 949.
economic power. Though often Centro Cultural that presents free Open 6am–6pm daily.
compared to New York’s Fifth live theater and art shows.
Avenue, it is a corporate valley, Immediately to its north and
business-like and functional. opposite MASP is the Parque u Museu do
In the 19th century, when a Trianon, the only green respite Futebol
Uruguayan named Joaquin from the concrete. It was named
Estádio do Pacaembu, Praça Charles
Eugenio de Lima first set up in homage to the gardens of the
Miller s/n. q Clínicas. @ 177C-10,
house here, Paulista was a hill Palace of Versailles, to which it
917M-10, 6232-10. Open 9am–5pm
on the outskirts of a small bears no resemblance. However, Tue–Sun (hours may change on match
colonial town surrounded by in the quiet of the early morning, days). ∑ museudofutebol.org.br
pastoral land and forest. Around small mammals, including agouti
this time, São Paulo was growing and marmosets, can be seen The Museum of Football is not
rich on trains and coffee. Others foraging here, and in the heat of to be missed by any fan of “the
followed de Lima and began the day, the trees provide wel- beautiful game.” Explore the
to build large houses here. come shade. There are plenty of history of soccer in Brazil and its
By the turn of the 19th century,
the avenue had become São
Paulo’s most desirable address,
and was lined with large, opulent
mansions owned by extremely
wealthy Brazilian moguls, or the
coffee barons. Each mansion
reflected the architectural predi-
lections of the owner, be it Neo-
Classical, Rhineland, or even
mock-Tudor. Having suffered
large-scale demolition after
World War II, the avenue had lost
its splendid character by the Parque Trianon, with its lush greenery, on Avenida Paulista
impact on both local society

and the global community. The
focus here is as much on Brazilian
people as it is on the sport itself,
allowing visitors to get a sense
of how habits and behaviors
changed in this country
throughout the 20th century.
The temporary exhibits at the
museum are complemented
by a 16-stage “fan path,” which
visitors may walk through. Each
room along the route offers a
mixture of some of the history
and excitement of soccer.
Shrine Gate at Oriental Quarter Japanese Town, Liberdade
i Liberdade community, their origins, and roof. Visitors are welcome to

Praça da Sé, via Av da Liberdade.
their lives in early 20th-century attend the various ceremonies,
q Praça de Sé/Liberdade. Brazil. These include a replica of the most impressive of which
@ Liberdade Rodoviária. the Kasato-Maru – the ship is the Cerimônia de Kannon,
which brought the first immi- which takes place each month.
São Paulo is home to more grants in 1908 (see p173) and The rituals, paying homage to
ethnic Japanese people than a complete early Japanese- the Buddha’s compassionate
any other city outside Japan. Brazilian agricultural cottage. nature, are accompanied by
Liberdade, located just south of The building also features a traditional Japanese instruments.
the city center, is the hub of the lovely rooftop garden.
Japanese community, and One of São Paulo’s many E Museu da Imigração Japonesa
recently for Koreans and Buddhist temples, built in 1995, Rua São Joaquim 381. Tel (11) 3209
Chinese. The neighborhood, the Templo Busshinji lies west 5465. Open 1–5pm Tue–Sun. &
small and easily manageable on of the Museu da Imigração  Templo Busshinji
foot, is best explored during the Japonesa on the same street. Rua São Joaquim 285. Tel (11) 3208
afternoon. Streets are lined with Its traditional Japanese-style 4515. Open 8am–5pm daily.
shops and restaurants selling architecture comprising wood is 8 by prior appointment. &
everything, from woks and topped with a pyramid-shaped ∑ sotozen.org.br
manga comics to sushi and
sashimi. On Sundays, there is
a lively market in the Praça de São Paulo Fashion Week
Liberdade, where stalls serve Established in 1996, São Paulo’s fashion week is Latin America’s
up steaming lacquer bowls of most important fashion event. All of the top Brazilian names and
miso soup and yakisoba noodles. faces, including Amir Slama and Havaianas, are showcased here,
Liberdade’s main thoroughfare, together with supermodels from around the world. The fashion
Rua Galvão Bueno, runs south fraternity can be seen in hip bars and boutiques in the wealthy
from this square, lined with the corners of the city. Over 100,000 people visit the show itself,
bulk of the shops and decorated which takes place twice a year – usually in January and March or
with red Japanese arches, or April – in Oscar Niemeyer’s Bienal building in Parque do Ibirapuera
torii. Many of Liberdade’s most (see pp150–51). More column inches are devoted to the event
than to any other activity in Brazil, except for soccer and political
traditional Japanese restaurants
scandals. The event generates an estimated $45 million through
are located on, and around, the media alone, with more than 2,500 newspaper and magazine
Rua Tomaz Gonzaga, which pages and almost 200 hours of television coverage.
cuts across Galvão Bueno,
south of the square.
At the corner of Galvão
Bueno and Rua São Joaquim,
an undistinguished block
houses the Museu da
Imigração Japonesa (Japanese
Immigration Museum). The
museum was opened in 1978
by the erstwhile prince, now
Emperor Akihito of Japan. It
has two floors of artifacts and
displays devoted to telling the A fashion show in full swing, with models displaying a collection
story of the Japanese immigrant
o Parque do Ibirapuera
Parque do Ibirapuera is the largest green space in central
São Paulo, and its native Brazilian woodlands and lakes are
a welcome respite from the city’s urban sprawl. Opened in
1954, it houses several museums and exhibition spaces, as
well as a complex of buildings by the country’s celebrated
architect, Oscar Niemeyer (1907–2012). These stage major
exhibitions, which have included the Terracotta Warrior
exhibition from China and the Rodin retrospective.
Monumento às Bandeiras
. Hotel Unique Completed in 1950, this tribute to
Hotel Unique (see p373), explorers or bandeirantes, who
the intriguing, half- opened up Brazil’s interior, is one
melon structure on stilts, of the more severe works by Brazil’s
is the most famous work foremost sculptor, Victor Brecheret.
of Brazil’s leading
contemporary architect,
Ruy Ohtake, son of the
artist Tomie Ohtake.
KEY
1 The Bosque da Leitura or

“reading wood” is the place to head
for on Sundays. Visitors can borrow
a book and read in the shade of
the trees.
2 The small vivarium houses a few
species of native subtropical trees.
3 The restored, state-of-the-
art planetarium Planetário
Aristóteles Orsini, is one of the
most impressive in Latin America
and is very popular with children.
All shows are in Portuguese.
4 A son et lumière fountain show
is held here on weekends.
5 The Monumento do Pedro
Álvares Cabral honors the
Portuguese explorer who first set
foot on Brazilian soil in 1500.
6 Museu Afro Brasil is devoted
to celebrating Afro-Brazilian culture.
It hosts films, exhibitions, dance, Pavilhão Japonês
music, and theater events. This pavilion and its
gardens were built in
7 Auditório Ibirapuera
strict accordance with
8 The Bienal Building, also by traditional Japanese
Niemeyer, stages the city’s flagship design, using only
fashion, art, and other premier Japanese materials.
events – São Paulo fashion week There is also an
and the Art Bienal, among others. exhibition space and a
Japanese tearoom.
Av Pedro Álvares Cabral. Map 4 E5.
Open 5am–midnight daily.
Museu de Arte Moderna, Gate 3:
Tel (11) 5085 1300. Open 10am–
6pm Tue–Sun. & free on Sun.
Museu Afro Brasil, Gate 10:
Tel (11) 3320 8900. Open 10am–
5pm Tue–Sun. Bosque da Leitura,
Gate 7: Av República do Líbano
1551. Open 9:30am–4pm Sun.
Planetário Aristóteles Orsino,
The lush expanse of Lago do Ibirapuera (Ibirapuera Lake) in the park Gate 10: Tel (11) 5575 5206.
Open 10am, noon, 3pm, 5pm Sat
& Sun (daily Dec–Feb and Jul).
0 meters 300
0 yards 300
. O Obelisco aos Heroís de 32
This giant Cleopatra’s needle was
built to honor the Paulistano
rebels who died in 1932 when
President Vargas crushed
resistance to his Estado Novo
regime (see p59).
Oca do Ibirapuera
Designed by Oscar Niemeyer,
this dome pays homage to the
indigenous Brazilian
roundhouse. It hosts major
international art exhibitions and
cultural events.
. Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM)

The best of Brazilian modern and
contemporary art is showcased in this
building designed by Lino Bo Bardi and
Oscar Niemeyer. The mural on part of its
facade is by graffiti artists OSGEMEOS .
The formal gardens in front of the Museu Paulista do Ipiranga, Parque da Independência, Ipiranga
p Parque da and paintings. The artist Pedro notable collection of early

Independência Américo’s monumental canvas 20th-century Italian paintings,
Independência ou Morte (1888), important, little-seen works by
Av Nazareth s/n, Ipiranga. depicting the young prince Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst, and
Tel (11) 2273 7250. @ 5108-10. shouting his grito (cry), sits in Henri Matisse, and Amedeo
Open 5am–8pm daily. ∑ mp.usp.br
the building’s most handsome Modigliani, which sit alongside
In 1822, Dom Pedro I declared room, the Salão Nobre. the cream of Brazil’s artists.
the famous “Grito de Ipiranga,” Brazilian Modernists, such as
or call for independence from Anita Malfatti, Vitor Brecheret,
Portugal (Independência ou a Museu de Arte and Candido Portanari, are well
Morte, or Independence or Contemporânea represented. MAC also holds
Death), on the banks of the Rio Av Pedro Alvares Cabral 130,
three of the most celebrated
Ipiranga (see p56). The large Ibirapuera. Tel (11) 2648 0254. @ works by one of the most
formal park that now occupies Open 10am–9pm Tue, 10am–6pm significant Latin American
this site was inaugurated in 1989 Wed–Sun. 8 by appointment. 7 Modernists, Tarsila do Amaral –
and includes an 1890 palace, ∑ mac.usp.br A Negra, Estrada de Ferro Central
one of the earliest monuments do Brasil, and A Floresta.
of independent Brazil. A treasure trove of modern Tarsila was the founder of
The mock French Renaissance and Post-Modern European and antropofagismo (see pp34–5) – a
gardens in front of the palace Brazilian art lies tucked away in movement that paved the way
include an enormous bronze the campus of São Paulo’s most for many important artistic
sculpture to the nation’s distinguished university. The trends within postwar Brazil.
independence, Monumento a collection at the Museu de
Independência, made by the Arte Contemporânea (MAC) is
Italian sculptor Ettore Ximenes an amalgamation of donations s Instituto Butantã
in 1921. In the chapel at the given by wealthy individuals Av Vital Brazil 1500, Cidade
base of the monument a since the early 20th century Universitária. Tel (11) 3726 7222.
tomb contains the remains of and prizes from São Paulo’s @ Open 9am–4:45pm Tue–Sun.
Dom Pedro I and Empress Art Biennials. The collection & 8 by appointment.
Leopoldina. Also in the comprises some 8,000 works ∑ butantan.gov.br
grounds is the Casa do Grito, of art. Prominent among is a
a replica of the simple adobe The Instituto Butantã is a
house depicted by Pedro biomedical research center
Américo in his painting, affiliated to the Cidade
Independência ou Morte (1888). Universitária, the University
The Museu Paulista is housed of São Paulo. Founded in
in the palace at the top of 1901 by Vital Brasil to conduct
extensive formal gardens. It is research into venomous
closed for restoration and will animals, the institute is
reopen in 2022. The museum is now one of the leading
devoted to the nation’s history, producers of anti-venoms
and contains a collection of and sera in the world. It is
exhibits which includes old also one of the city’s principal
maps, traditional colonial tourist attractions, as it is
furniture, carriages, rare Estrada de Ferro Central do Brasil by Tarsila located in a pretty forested
documents, old coins, clothing, de Amaral at MAC garden full of hummingbirds.
Pits alongside the center and an studies in Germany, and his

adjacent museum house many early work with the architect
of South America’s more exotic Lucio Costa who had worked
snakes and arachnids. Smaller with Le Corbusier. Burle Marx
but even deadlier creatures can was one of the first architects
be seen through microscopes to combine sculptural and
in the institute’s Museu de painting techniques with
Microbiologia. This bright, landscape design.
modern space also includes His gardens in the Parque
excellent interactive displays Burle Marx have been com-
which are particularly popular pared to abstract paintings,
with children. utilizing simple shapes, and
some curvilinear and recti-
linear patterns to create blocks
d Jardim Botânico of color and texture, broken by
Av Miguel Stéfano 3031. Tel (11)
paths and areas of woodland.
5067 6000. @ Open 9am–5pm Marx was a keen ecologist and
Tue–Sun. & 7 promoted the use of Brazilian
native species, and the park is
Other than the Serra da Pond with a tropical forest glade at the surrounded by a small area of
Cantareira mountains on the Jardim Botânico forest, comprising various
city’s western fringe, the Jardim Mata Atlântica species.
Botânico is the largest area with tropical forest cut by short Although Marx contributed
of green in São Paulo’s trails and little running streams. to Parque do Ibirapuera (see
metropolitan area. It combines Walkers should be wary of snakes. pp150–51), this park is the only
formal gardens, laid out around exclusive example of his work
a series of lakes with areas of in his home city. The gardens
f Parque Burle
forest large enough to support were originally private, com-
several resident troops of red Marx missioned for the millionaire
howler monkeys. Their guttural Av Dona Helena Pereira de Morais industrialist “Baby” Pignatari
calls can be heard here at dawn 200. Tel (11) 3746 7631; (11) 3776 in the 1940s.
and dusk and sometimes the 7497. @ 6291-10, 5119-23. As well as landscaping,
monkeys themselves can be Open 7am–7pm daily. & Burle Marx was allowed to
seen in the trees. There is plenty ∑ parqueburlemarx.com.br experiment and place abstract
of other wildlife too, including structures in the gardens.
agoutis, pacas, and tufted-eared Roberto Burle Marx (1909–94) These include mirrors of
marmosets. The latter often loiter was South America’s greatest water and rectangular blocks
about in the trees around the landscape architect and one of reminiscent of the low Mixtec
lawns of the sculpture garden the three core designers of buildings in Mitla, Mexico. The
hoping to grab a fruity morsel. Brasília (see pp298–9). His designs constructions near the avenue
The entrance to the park were strongly influenced by of palms at the park’s entrance
is through an avenue of Modernist ideas inspired by his are by Oscar Niemeyer.
magnificent royal palms,
surrounded by tropical and
subtropical trees. Most are
labeled with their common
and scientific names (the
former in Portuguese only).
The avenue leads to the Jardim
Lineu, inspired by the gardens
in Uppsala, Sweden, and, like
them, are laid out in homage
to 18th-century biologist Carl
Linnaeus. Glass houses here
contain a number of Atlantic
rainforest plants and a
botanical museum preserves
a bank of Brazilian seeds from
flowering plants and important
fruit species.
Beyond the Jardim Lineu are
areas of ponds and lawns
popular with picnickers on the
weekends. These are fringed Abstract rectangular structures, Parque Burle Marx
SHOPPING IN SÃO PAULO

Shopping in São Paulo is like shopping in a bursting with smart boutiques. The
large North American city. It is largely mall- numerous opulent malls, which are are
and boutique-based and geared toward large, elegant, and air-conditioned, also
high-end luxury goods. However, more contain many boutiques and shops selling
interesting are markets and fairs that take international brands and leading Brazilian
place around town on weekends, selling designers, as well as restaurants and
traditional goods. Handicrafts and entertainment areas. São Paulo’s other
traditional artisan wares can be found at good buys, such as coffee and cachaça,
some markets, and there are a few arts and can also be bought in malls, while CDs and
crafts specialist shops. The city is Latin books are best sought in mega-bookstores.
America’s fashion capital and the districts of Rua Gabriel Monteiro Silva in Jardins is the
Jardins, Pacaembu, and Vila Madalena are place for high-quality household items.
DVDs. Its selections of Latin

American art-house films
are particularly strong.
Grandes Galerias, or the
Galeria do Rock, has a large
choice of rock CDs and DVDs.
This arcade has around 100
different small shops selling
every manner of CD and DVD.
However, only a few stores
offer the desirable option of
listening before buying.
Designer shops lining Rua Oscar Freire

Beverages
Shopping hours can be found too. Amir Slama The raw ingredient for the
Shops in São Paulo are open opened his own store here and caipirinha cocktail, Brazilian
from 8am to 6pm. Street shops now stocks the world’s sexiest cachaça or sugar-cane rum is
tend to open from 8 or 10am and most fashionable bikinis. sometimes difficult to find
to 6pm. They are closed on Other designers, such as outside of Brazil. But in São Paulo,
Brazilian public holidays. Most the eco-friendly Flavia Aranha, bottles are on sale in any corner
shopping centers and malls are who is popular with those shop at a reasonable price. The
open from 10am to 10pm and looking for elegant simplicity, Cachaçaria Paulista, however, is
on weekends (including Sunday) can be found around the leafy a bar and shop for connoisseurs,
from 10am to 8pm. They often streets of Vila Madalena. selling more than 300 different
do not close on public holidays. cachaças, the best of which are
said to be from Minas Gerais.
Music & Film Fine coffee beans and grounds
Fashion Bossa nova, samba, frevo, forró, can be bought here. Santo Grão
The domestic fashion market in ax , choro – it is difficult to think
axé in Jardins and boutiques in the
Brazil is flourishing, with almost of a country with as many various malls have shops selling
all Brazilian labels coming from homegrown musical genres as gourmet and quality blends.
São Paulo. The market is Brazil. São Paulo is the best Some of the very best are to be
strongest for women’s clothing place in the country either to found in the shop of the Museu
and the best place to begin a begin an acquaintance with this do Café in Santos (see p172).
browse is in Jardins. Here, diversity or to explore its variety.
hundreds of tasteful little shops Many of the larger stores give
sell colorful, beautifully cut customers the chance to Books & Magazines
clothes. Many of the latest listen to CDs before Large bookshops can be
generation of young Paulistana buying. Such shops found in the malls and
designers, such as Adriana are to be found in are usually well-stocked
Barra and Cris Barros, have many of the larger malls with English-language
their showrooms in Jardins. but the best in the city novels. The greatest
These labels are particularly is probably FNAC, which variety is to be found
strong on dresses and evening also stocks an excellent in FNAC, and Livraria
wear. More established names selection of Brazilian Brazilian music CDs Cultura. The bookshops
S H O P P I N G I N S Ã O PA U LO  155
attached to the MASP and

MAM galleries are well worth a
browse. Brazilian art books are of
a very high international stand-
ard and much of the material,
including reproductions of
European art kept in Brazil, can
only be found here. Particularly
interesting are the gorgeous
photographic books. Brazilian
art and social photography is
excellent and well represented
in the gallery souvenir shops. Iguatemi shopping mall
Overpriced international
papers and magazines can also sells indigenous jewelry and Shopping Malls
be bought at larger bookshops. household goods. There is an There are shopping malls
There are no English-language arts and crafts market on Praça throughout the city, many of
publications in Brazil. Portuguese da Republica on Sundays, which stock similar items and
readers will find newsstands or selling handicrafts mainly from brands, making it difficult to
bancas dotted throughout the North and Northeast Brazil. choose between them. The
city. Lovers of vintage books and Feira de Artes Benedito Calixto best design names are to be
those on a budget will enjoy is a traditional street market found in South America’s oldest
Sebo do Messias, Brazil’s largest selling antiques, handicrafts, mall, Iguatemi, which still
used-book store. and art every Saturday. looks as if it was built yesterday.
Paulistanos adore decor. Etel Shopping Ibirapuera has the
Interiores has exquisite top-end most shops and perhaps the
Arts, Crafts & Design home furnishings from furniture greatest middle-brow choice.
Although arts and crafts are best to small decorative items. The High-end Daslu is inter-
bought regionally, particularly in most interesting pieces are nationally famous and attracts
centers such as Manaus, Palmas, made from sustainable élite and wealthy clients. Many
or Caruaru, there are a few materials in Acre in the Brazilian international and Brazilian big
specialist shops in São Paulo. Amazon. Firma Casa stocks the design names are sold here,
The Casa das Culturas Indígenas best of Brazil’s furniture makers. together with Daslu’s own label.
DIRECTORY
Fashion Galeria do Rock MASP Feira de Artes
Rua 24 de Maio 62 & Av Av Paulista 1578. Benedito Calixto
Adriana Barra São João 439. Map 1 B2. Praça Benedito Calixto.
Map 4 F2.
Alameda Franca 1243. Map 3 B2. ∑praca
Tel (11) 3251 5868.
Map 4 F3. Beverages ∑ masp.art.br beneditocalixto.com.br
Tel (11) 2925 2300.
∑ adrianabarra.com.br Cachaçaria Paulista Sebo do Messias Firma Casa
Rua Mourato Coelho 593, Praça Joao Mendes 140. Al Gabriel Monteiro da
Amir Slama
Pinheiro. Map 3 A3. Map 1 C4. Silva 1487. Map 3 B4.
Rua Oscar Freire 977.
Tel (11) 3815 4756. Tel (11) 3104 7111. Tel (11) 3385 9595.
Map 4 D2.
∑ firmacasa.com.br
Tel (11) 3061 0450. Santo Grão
∑ amirslama.com.br Rua Oscar Freire 413.
Arts, Crafts & Praça da Republica
Map 4 D3. Design Map 1 B2.
Cris Barros
Rua Vitório Fasano 85. Tel (11) 3082 4892. Casa das Culturas
∑ santograo.com.br
Shopping Malls
Map 4 D3. Indígenas
Tel (11) 3082 3621. Rua Augusta 1371, loja Daslu
∑ crisbarros.com.br Books & 107. Map 4 E1. Rua Haddock Lobo,
Magazines Tel (11) 3283 4924. 1583 Jardins. Map 4 D3.
Flavia Aranha
Rua Aspicuelta 224, Livraria Cultura ∑ casadasculturas Tel (11) 3078 1827.
Map 3 A1. Av Paulista 2073.Map 4 E2. indigenas.com ∑ daslu.com.br
∑ flaviaaranha.com. Tel (11) 3170 4033. Etel Interiores Iguatemi
∑ livrariacultura.com.br Al Gabriel Monteiro da Av Brig. Faria Lima 2232.
Music & Film Map 3 A5.
MAM Silva, 1834.
Parque do Ibirapuera, Map 3 A4. Tel (11) 3048 7344.
FNAC
Av Paulista 901. Portão 3. Map 4 E5. Tel (11) 3064 1266. Shopping Ibirapuera
Map 4 F3. Tel (11) 5085 1300. ∑ etelinteriores. Av Ibirapuera 3103.
Tel (11) 2123 2000. ∑ mam.org.br com.br Tel (11) 5095 2300.
ENTERTAINMENT IN
SÃO PAULO
São Paulo has an incredible nightlife with range of films can be viewed as well, with
a bewildering choice of activities on offer. state-of-the-art multiplexes showing the
Live music, in diverse styles, is performed latest blockbusters from Europe, Latin
every night by the most distinguished America, or Asia and art-house theaters
artists in the country. Brazil’s finest offering popular national cinema. A
orchestra, theater, and concert halls are progressive city, São Paulo has the largest
also located in São Paulo. The city boasts Gay Pride parade in the world, which takes
myriad dance clubs offering samba
samba, forró, place in June. Children are welcome
and a dozen other traditional styles, everywhere – even in bars and restaurants,
alongside ubiquitous international club and the largest theme park in South America,
music, often with a Brazilian twist. A wide Playcenter, lies on the city’s doorstep.
Guides & listings 1,500-seat concert hall, the Sala

The Friday edition of the Folha São Paulo. The acoustics here
de São Paulo and Estado do São are almost perfect. The Sala São
Paulo newspapers and Veja Paulo regularly advertises its
magazine’s cultural insert, upcoming programs on its web-
Veijinha, have comprehensive site. The city’s other key music
listings in Portuguese. The venue for opera and classical
website Catraca Livre, popular concerts is the distinguished
with a young crowd, offers Theatro Municipal. The Teatro
reviews of the latest events, Alfa specializes in ballet.
including those that are free.
The main ticket-selling web-
sites for São Paulo are Ingresso Dance Bars & Clubs
Rápido and Ingresso.com. Dance bars and clubs are largely
concentrated in two areas of the
Sergio Dias, Ceumar, and Rebecca Matta city – Vila Madalena and Pinheiros,
Live Music performing at SESC Pompéia southwest of the center, and the
A plethora of small venues in contiguous bairros of Vila Olímpia,
the bairros of Vila Madalena, The most popular national and Itaim, and Moema in the south.
Pinheiros, and Vila Olímpia international groups, such as The former is more lively, with
play host to all manner of live Ivete Sangalo and U2, play live forró and samba bands
acts. Almost all have a small in the Pacaembu stadium. playing to bars filled with univer-
restaurant area, a dance floor, sity students. Bambú Brasil and
and a sitting area. All have bars the Canto da Ema are always
and serve beer and excellent Classical Music & Dance packed at weekends. Vila Olímpia,
cocktails. Musical performances Brazil’s most reputable Itaim, and Moema are generally
may vary from week to week – orchestra, the São Paulo State livelier neighborhoods and are
from samba to Brazilian funk, Symphony Orchestra, has its home to the bulk of clubs which
bossa nova, or the latest post- home in Latin America’s best play host to big-name DJs, such
mangue beat sounds from the
state of Pernambuco. The best
venues include Akbar and the
Bourbon Street Music Club,
featuring jazz and Dixieland.
More popular performers, such
as João Bosco or Otto, play in the
SESCs – cultural centers with
excellent concert halls. The best
are in Vila Mariana and Pompéia.
Legendary singers such as Milton
Nascimento and Caetano Veloso
play in numerous concert halls
such as the Espaço das Américas
and Citibank Hall, which are
some of the largest in the city. Renowned trumpet player Shamarr Allen performing at the Bourbon Street Music Club
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N S Ã O PA U LO  157
as Marky and Patiffe, and play

techno and trance music. The
Consolação area is very popular
for nightlife and has numerous
trendy venues, including
Z Carniceria and Club Yacht,
while an alternative crowd
hangs out in the old city center
in clubs such as Cine Joia,
which also hosts concerts.
Cinema & Theater

The city has some 250 cinema
houses and hosts several impor- Fans cheering during a championship match at the Estádio Morumbi
tant film festivals. Almost all the
shopping malls have large multi- Children Soccer
plexes showing not only the São Paulo’s urban environment Soccer is an obsession in
latest films from Hollywood but makes outdoor attractions for São Paulo, as it is throughout
also national releases. There are children relatviely few and far the country, and the city has
more than 20 art-house cinemas, between, although there are the most prestigious soccer
including the Cine SESC and the some popular amusement and teams in Brazil. There are three
Reserva Cultural off Avenida theme parks scattered across First Division teams based
Paulista. Non-Portuguese films the city. One of the biggest in São Paulo who play in
are subtitled rather than dubbed. theme parks in Brazil, Hopi Hari, the impressive Morumbi
São Paulo has more than 100 is located 40 miles (70 km) and Pacaembu stadiums.
theaters with shows almost north of downtown São Paulo. Estádio Morumbi is the home
exclusively in Portuguese. Most The city also boasts the large ground of São Paulo Futebol
of the theaters are found in Bela Fundação Parque Zoológico Clube. Matches are generally
Vista and Bixiga. The Cultura de São Paulo (São Paulo Zoo), held on Wednesday and on
Inglesa features English- which is set in a state preserve weekends, and guided tours
language films and TV shows. of coastal rainforest. take place daily.
DIRECTORY
Guides & Listings SESC Canto da Ema Reserva Cultural
SESC Vila Mariana, Rua Av Brig. Faria Lima 364, Av Paulista 900, São
Catraca Livre Paulo. Map 4 E2.
Pelotas 141. Pinheiros.
∑ catracalivre.com.br
Tel (11) 3813 4708. Tel (11) 3287 3529.
Tel (11) 5080 3000.
Ingresso
∑ sescsp.org.br Cine Joia
∑ ingresso.com
Praça Carlos Gomes 82, Sé.
Children
Ingresso Rápido
∑ ingressorapido.
Classical Music & Map 1 C4 Fundação Parque
Dance Tel (11) 3101 1305. Zoológico de São
com.br ∑ cinejoia.tv Paulo
Live Music Sala São Paulo Club Yacht Av Miguel Stéfano 4241.
Praça Julio Prestes 16. Rua Treze de Maio 703, Tel (11) 5073 0811.
Akbar Map 1 B1. Bela Vista. Map 1 B5. ∑ zoologico.com.br
Rua Inácio Pereira da Tel (11) 3231 3705.
Tel (11) 3223 3966. Hopi Hari
Rocha 109, Vila Madalena.
Z Carniceria Rodovia dos
Map 3 A2. Teatro Alfa
Rua Augusta 934. Bandeirantes, km 72 -
Tel (11) 3816 0403. Rua Bento Branco de
Map 4 F1. Vinhedo.
∑ akbar.com.br Andrade Filho 722, Santo Tel (11) 2936 0934. Tel (11) 3270 3609.
Bourbon Street Amaro. Tel (11) 5693 4000. ∑ hopihari.com.br
Music Club Cinema & Theater
Theatro Municipal
Rua dos Chanés 127, Soccer
Moema. Tel (11) 5095 6100. Praça Ramos de Azevedo. Cine SESC
Map 1 C2 & C3. Rua Augusta 2075. Estádio Morumbi
Citibank Hall
Tel (11) 3053 2090. Map 4 E2. Praça Roberto Gomes
Av das Nações Unidas
Tel (11) 3087 0500. Pedrosa 1, São Paulo.
17955, Vila Almeida.
Tel (11) 3749 8000;
Tel (11) 4003 5588. Dance Bars & Cultura Inglesa (11) 3739 5222.
Espaço das Américas Clubs Rua Deputado
Rua Tagipuru 795 - Barra Lacerda Franco 333.
Funda. Tel (11) 3868 5860. Bambu Brasil Tel (11) 3032 4888.
∑ casadasamericas. Rua Purpurina 272. Map 3 ∑ culturainglesasp.
com.br A1. Tel (11) 3031 2331. com.br
158  S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y
SÃO PAULO STREET FINDER

Map references given in this guide that follow refer to the grid reference
for entertainment venues, shopping areas, on that map. The map below shows the
and other attractions in São Paulo City different areas of São Paulo City – Centro,
refer to the Street Finder maps on Bela Vista, Jardins, and Jardim Paulista –
the following pages. Map references covered by the five Street Finder maps.
are also provided for São Paulo City Symbols used for sights and useful
restaurants (see pp389–90) and hotels information are displayed in the key
(see p373–4). The first figure in the map below. A list of important places of
reference indicates which Street Finder interest marked on the maps can be
map to turn to, and the letter and number found on page 140.
AV MA RG
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Scale of Maps 1–2 & 3–4
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S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y S T R E E T F I N D E R  159
Streetwise in São Paulo areas around the city’s main

São Paulo has one of the train station, Praça da Sé,
highest crime rates of any city Praça da República, and
in the world. However, most of Praça Roosevelt. Be careful in
the violence is restricted to the the city center late at night,
isolated areas dominated by the as well as in the cheap
favelas (shantytowns), which lie accommodation area around
on the periphery of the city far Rua Santa Efigênia.
from the upmarket areas more Cameras, credit cards, and
frequented by visitors. Though cash should be kept out of
you are unlikely to meet with sight, preferably in a money
serious trouble in São Paulo, it belt, with a few notes left in
is important nonetheless to a pocket or handbag. It is wise
take all adequate precautions. to withdraw cash only during
Visitors are required to carry the day and use ATMs that
their identification documents are within the bank premises
at all times. rather than in a crowded street.
Visitors must exercise greater The metro is safe for
caution while traveling in commuting during the day,
certain parts of the city, but it is recommended to Brigadeiro metro station entrance in
including the district of Luz, use taxis after dark. These can Paulista Avenue, São Paulo
be booked through a hotel
or rented at one of the many If held up or driven at gunpoint
taxi stands. to an ATM machine, avoid
AV
Driving and navigation in any provocation that could

DO
São Paulo are difficult. Carjacking prove fatal.

EST
and red-light robberies are

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There have been many

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common after dark. As a result, incidents of organized violence

the traffic law allows drivers to by the PCC (Primeiro Comando
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stopping if there is little or unlikely event of PCC activity, it

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no traffic on the roads. is advisable to stay in your hotel.
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Key
Place of interest
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Train station
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Bus station
Visitor information
Hospital
Police station
Church Crowded shopping street lined with a selection of stores, São Paulo
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SÃO PAULO STATE

São Paulo is famous for its beaches, pristine island resorts,
spectacular surf, and majestic rainforests. Divided into
Litoral Norte and Litoral Sul, the state’s coastline is one
of the most incredible in the southern half of Brazil. São
Paulo’s agricultural hinterland is the main reason it is
Brazil’s economic powerhouse. It is also home to a
diverse range of immigrant communities.
The colony of Brazil was officially Rio City, with similar numbers of high-
established in São Vicente (present- rise buildings facing the ocean, are the
day Santos) in 1532 by Martim Afonso most popular destinations. All three
de Souza. The handful of sailors that have beaches that have consistently
remained formally named the beach been rated among the nation’s top
São Vicente, and, as pioneers, had to ten by the country’s tourist magazines.
fend for themselves in a new land, coping Puma and ocelot still hunt in the wild
with assaults launched by the local Atlantic mountain forests which lie
Tamoio Indians. Settlements followed only a short distance behind them.
shortly after in nearby Santos and in The full majesty of the Atlantic
São Sebastião, opposite the island of coastal forest, the Mata Atlântica,
Ilhabela, now a beautiful resort. All towns unfolds around Mosaico Juréia-Itatins,
in the region preserve interesting sights and Cananéia in the Litoral Sul. Lush
and legacies dating from their early ridges, waterfalls, and abundant plant
colonial days. life are its main attractions. The forest
Most visitors, however, come to the is also home to a wide array of animals,
São Paulo coast not for history but for birds, and brilliantly colored butterflies.
sand, surf, and rainforest. Ilhabela, Brazil’s One of the loveliest spots is Ilha do
largest tropical island, Ubatuba, whose Cardoso, a boat ride from Cananéia,
70 beaches stretch to the state’s far north, where caimans can be seen basking
and Guarujá, similar to Copacabana in in the sun on the beaches.
Stream flowing through the lush Mata Atlântica near Ubatuba

Ilha Urubuqueçaba, Santos, as seen from Morro Voturuá
Exploring São Paulo State

The São Paulo coast is divided into the Litoral Norte, which
stretches towards Rio in the northeast from the port city
of Santos, and the Litoral Sul, which stretches from Santos
towards Paraná state. The Litoral Norte is one of the most
heavily visited coastlines in southeastern Brazil. Beaches S ÃO
on the Ilhabela, Brazil’s largest tropical island, and the P A U LO
S TAT E
resort of Ubatuba, are magnificently backed by towering
spurs swathed in tropical rainforest. The sands of the
Litoral Sul are darker and siltier than those of the Litoral
Norte. Around Cananéia and Juréia, and stretching into Key
Paraná, are the largest tracts of lowland coastal forest Area illustrated
outside the Amazon. The beautiful beaches of the Ilha
do Cardoso are just a boat ride away from Cananéia.
São José do
Rio Preto
Sights at a Glance Limeira
Towns & Cities

Piracicaba
1 Ubatuba Americana
2 São Sebastião
Campinas
5 Guarujá
Valinhos
6 Santos Conchas
Indaiatuba
7 São Vicente Laranjal Tietê
9 Iguape Paulista
0 Cananéia Salto
Boituva
Tatuí Itu
State Parks & Areas
of Natural Beauty Sorocaba
Angatuba
8 Mosaico Juréia-Itatins São
Votorantim Roque
Islands Itapetininga
SÃO PAULO
Ibiúna
3 Ilhabela
Buri São Miguel Piedade
q Ilha do Cardoso Arcanjo Pilar do Sul
Beaches Juquitiba
Itapeva Tapiraí
Capão Bonito
4 Maresias Capuava
Itararé Guapiara
Pedro Pedro
Ribeirão a Barros Toledo
Branco c ab
pia Juquiá
na Dedo de Deus
Serra Para MOSAICO 4,429 ft
(1,350 m)
JURÉIA-ITATINS
Apiaí Rib Barra do
Eldorado eira Una
de
Ig uap
Ribeira Iporanga Jacupiranga e
IGUAPE
Barra do
Turvo
Curitiba
CANANÉIA
Key Ariri
ILHA DO CARDOSO
Highway
Major road
0 km 25
Minor road
0 miles 25
Railroad
State border
Peak
S Ã O PA U LO S TAT E  167
The Praia das Toninhas in Ubatuba

Rio de
Janeiro
Lindoia Socorro Piquete Bananal

Belo Campos Areias
Horizonte do Jordão
Amparo Lorena
Guaratinguetá Bairro dos
Macacos
Serão da
Bragança Bocaina
Paulista Pindamonhangaba
Piracaia Taubaté ga
Itatiba Cacapava Lagoinha i tin Cunha
ra
Jundiaí
Atibaia São José dos Pa
Campos
São Luís do
Paraitinga
Franco da Rocha Jacareí
Paraibuna
Guarulhos Itaquaquecetuba UBATUBA
Santo Moji Salesópolis
Embu São André das Cruzes
Paulo Caraguatatuba
São Bernardo MARESIAS
do Campo
ILHABELA
Cubatão
SÃO SEBASTIÃO Ilha do São Sebastião
SÃO VICENTE SANTOS Ponta do Boi
Praia Grande GUARUJA
Ilha de
Alcatrazes
Itanhaém
Getting Around
There are two large airports –
international and domestic – in São
Paulo City. Regular bus services ply
between São Paulo City and the major
towns on the coast, but reaching the
best of the beaches requires a car. The
main routes to the coast are the
Anchieta and Imigrantes highways
between São Paulo City and Santos.
From Santos, the route north follows
the Rio–Santos (SP-055), which passes
through all the major beach towns
and heads into Rio de Janeiro state.
The Litoral Sul can be reached by
SP-055, which reaches only as far as
the northern part of Mosaico Juréia-
Itatins. Towns farther to the south can
be reached off highway BR-116. A beautiful beach on the tropical island of Ilhabela
coastline was cloaked in a forest

larger than the Amazon. North of
Guanabara Bay was Tamoio
indigenous country, and São
Sebastião became the
northernmost Portuguese outpost
for the indigenous slave trade.
As it grew, the city became one of
the country’s first sugargrowing
centers and the thirst for slave
labor became unquenchable. The
city was also among the first to
receive Africans in the slave trade.
Picinguaba beach in Ubatuba with Serra do Mar mountains in the distance Although most people who
come to São Sebastião do so
1 Ubatuba  Aquário de Ubatuba
Rua Guaraní 859. Tel (12) 3834 1382.
merely to pass through on their
way to Ilhabela, the town has a
* 65,000. ~ @ Open 10am–8pm Sun–Thu,
n Av Iperoig 214, (12) 3833 9123.
colonial center of historical
10am–10pm Fri & Sat. &
∑ vivaubatuba.com.br importance which merits at
O Projeto Tamar least a couple of hours’ leisurely
Lying at the northern extreme Rua A. Atanázio 273. Tel (12) 3832 stroll before departing.
of São Paulo state and sitting 6202. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Thu & São Sebastião’s colonial
at the feet of the Serra do Mar Sun, 10am–8pm Fri–Sat (closed Wed streets lie in the few blocks
mountain range, Ubatuba is a in low season). between the shoreline and the
little beach resort with a small Praça Major João Fernandes at
colonial center lined with Environs the heart of the city, easily
terraced houses. Glorious The twin beaches of Domingas recognizable by the imposing
beaches surround the resort. Dias and Lázaro, whose white 17thcentury church, the Igreja
The most popular beaches, sands curve gently on either side Matriz, which watches over it.
especially those south of the of a forestclad promontory, are This is largely a 19thcentury
town center such as Praia located 11 miles (18 km) south reconstruction devoid of much
Grande, have an excellent infra of Ubatuba. The Peninsula da of its original church art.
structure, including play areas Ponta da Fortaleza lies just south However, the refurbished
for children. Buses running of Domingas Dias and is fringed Museu de Arte Sacra, housed in
along the coastal road pass with many quiet beaches, the 17thcentury chapel of São
other nearby beaches, such including Praia Vermelha do Sul. Gonçalo, a block to the south of
as Enseada, Picinguaba, and Surfers head north of Ubatuba to the church, preserves a number
Flamengo. Even in high season Praia Vermelha do Norte for the of beautiful, delicate images of
it is easy to find a quiet stretch best waves on the Litoral Norte. Christ. Dating from the 16th
of sand or lonely cove tucked century, these images were
away along the coast to the found within cavities in the wall
south of Ubatuba. 2 São Sebastião of the Igreja Matriz during its
The Aquário de Ubatuba in * 83,000. @ n Av Doutor Altino restoration in 2003.
the center of the town contains Arantes 174, (12) 3892 2620. There are also a few streets
some of the largest tanks and _ Festas do 20 de Janeiro (Jan). lined with Portuguese houses
most diverse range of tropical ∑ turismosaosebastiao.com.br and a number of civic buildings,
marine life in all of Brazil. The the most impressive of which
office of the Projeto Tamar, a São Sebastião was founded in the is the Casa Esperança on the
Brazilwide organization that early 17th century, when Brazil’s waterfront. Built from stone
monitors and preserves turtle
nesting beaches, is also located
in town. Visitors are permitted
to witness turtle hatchings
under supervision.
The Serra do Mar rises in a
vertiginous green wall only
a short distance north of
Ubatuba and an easy drive
away from the town. Carpeted
in thick primary forest,
the Serra is home to many
endangered endemic species.
Birdlife, too, is prolific in this
picturesque mountainous area. Façade of Igreja Matriz, São Sebastião
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p374 and p390–91
and wattle and daub congealed

with whale oil, the exterior is
whitewashed with lime made
from thousands of crushed
shells. The Casa contains some
faded but original 17thcentury
ceiling paintings and statuary.
P Casa Esperança
Av Altino Arantes 144. Open 9am–5pm
Mon–Fri, 7–10am Sat & Sun.
R Igreja Matriz
Praça Major João Fernandes.
Tel (12) 3892 1110. Open 8am–6pm
Mon–Fri. 5 7pm Mon, Tue & Thu–Sat; Waterfront at Vila Ilhabela with 18th-century cannon
3pm Wed; 7:30am, 9am & 7:30pm Sun.
E Museu de Arte Sacra cannons adorn its waterfront 4 Maresias
Rua Sebastião Silvestre Neves 90. and there is a little avenue of * 5,000. n Estrada do Cascalho
Tel (12) 3892 4286. Open 9am–noon, Portuguese buildings, including 1470, Boiçucanga, 4 miles (7 km) W of
2–6pm Tue–Sat. 7 ^ a 16thcentury church, the Maresias, (12) 3865 4335.
Matriz de Nossa Senhora d’Ajuda.
The island’s other road is a dirt South of São Sebastião lie a
3 Ilhabela track, usable only by fourwheel number of beautiful beach
* 32,000. g from São Sebastião to drives, which cuts across the resorts. Maresias, the liveliest of
Barra Velha. n Praça Vereador José interior from Perequê into the the lot, is busy with young, hip
Leite dos Passos 14, Barra Velha, (12) park and to the windward Paulistanos at weekends and
3895 7220. _ Festa do Camarão beaches. The most spectacular holidays. Praia de Maresias is
(Aug). ∑ ilhabela.sp.gov.br of these is the Baía de famous for its powerful surf,
Castelhanos, a perfect half half which has been the site for
One of Brazil’s largest islands, moon of sand backed by many international surfing
Ilhabela rises steeply out of the rainforestcovered slopes. competitions. Toque Toque
Atlantic, a short distance offshore The island’s longest beach, and Grande and Toque Toque
from São Sebastião. the best for surfing, is Bonete, Pequeno, 6 miles (9 km) south
With a coastline which is 9 miles (15 km) south east, are smaller, quieter beaches,
sculpted by dozens of from Borrifos village, sheltered by rainforestcovered
bays and beaches, it is along a rough forest spurs. There are plenty of
covered in rainforest, trail. pousadas and restaurants on, or
much of it cut by fastflowing Ilhabela’s forests just off, the São Sebastião road,
mountain streams. Visitors are dripping with which runs along the coast.
from São Paulo throng waterfalls, but many
here during weekends, are either completely
but during the week inaccessible or 5 Guarujá
(outside of holiday reachable only by * 310,000. n Av Marechal Deodoro
season) the island is all Blue dacnis, trail. A short distance da Fonseca 723, (13) 3344 4600.
but deserted. Much of Ilhabela inland from Perequê ∑ portal.guaruja.sp.gov.br
the forest is protected as beach, Cachoeira da Toca
part of the Parque Estadual de waterfalls plunge in a series of Situated close to São Paulo
Ilhabela and there is plenty of little cascades into swimming and on the way to Santos,
wildlife, including ocelots and pools, replete with waterslides. this beachtown is a popular
several species of primates. Cachoeira da Água Branca is weekend and daytrip destin
The presence of biting flies, or larger, with more swimming ation for São Paulo residents.
borrachudos, on the island make pools. It is an hour’s walk along It is known as the “Pearl of the
insect repellent essential. a trail which begins at the Atlantic” and has about 14 miles
Ilhabela has just two roads. entrance to the state park, a (23 km) of white beaches that
One is paved and runs the short distance beyond the turn stretch along the coast. The
entire length of the western, off to Cachoeira da Toca. longest of these, Enseada Beach,
leeward coast. Most of the Numerous shipwrecks off is popular with surfers, and its
numerous pousadas and Ilhabela also make it a popular shores are lined with hotels and
guesthouses lie here, as do scubadiving destination, kiosks. For those who don’t only
the villages of Perequê (where despite the murky water. want to soak up the sun, other
the ferry arrives), Borrifos, São activities include artisan fishing
Pedro, and Vila Ilhabela. The } Cachoeira da Toca and looking at the town’s
latter has a few colonial rem Estrada Baía de Castelhanos. historical buildings. The town
ains. Rusting 18thcentury Open 24 hrs daily. & also has an aquarium.
A fishing village on the coastal outskirts of the city of Santos, São Paulo State
Stained-glass skylight, depicting a representation of Brazil, the Mãe Douro, Bolsa e Museu do Café, Santos
6 Santos undergoing a spruce-up and is The auction room is crowned

* 418,000. @ n Praça das
now very attractive. Scottish by a magnificent stained-glass
Bandeiras, 0800 173 887. trams in British racing green skylight, with an arresting
∑ turismosantos.com run through its streets, taking representation of Brazil, the Mãe
visitors on a whistle-stop tour of Douro; crowned with a star, she
When Santos was founded in the various attractions. The city rises from flames in a landscape
1535, it was one of Portugal’s center is also small enough to thick with tropical animals and
first New World settlements. stroll around and have a closer startled-looking indigenous
Since the mid-16th century, look at these sights on foot. people. The skylight and the
when neighboring São Vicente The jewel in the city’s crown is beautiful Neo-Renaissance
was established, Santos had the Art Nouveau Museu do painting of Santos that adorns
been a port. First it Café. Its modest the walls of the stock exchange
dealt with sugar, and Victorian exterior are by Brazil’s most celebrated
then with African hides an opulent mid-19th-century artist,
slaves. However, it marble-floored Benedito Calixto (see p34).
grew rich on coffee, turn-of-the-19th- A number of Calixto’s paintings
which was brought century stock are displayed in the Pinacoteca
out of the mountains exchange and Benedito Calixto, which is
on Brazil’s first trains, museum, together housed in one of the
built by the British in with a café shop few remaining coffee baron
the late 19th century. Scottish tram serving excellent mansions. The landscapes shown
Unlike São Vicente, coffee and desserts. here give an idea of the city’s
Santos has preserved vestiges of The Bolsa was once open only once breathtaking natural beauty.
its historical legacy, and, under to wealthy (and exclusively Santos has a handful of
recent enlightened municipal male) coffee barons who traded interesting churches, but the
governance, is reinventing and here. When it was built, coffee only one open to the public is
refurbishing itself. Once was the most important and the Santuário Santo Antônio
decrepit, the city center is coveted commodity in Brazil. do Valongo. The church’s mock-
Baroque interior dates from
the 1930s. The fine original
Football Legend Pelé 17th-century altarpiece remains
Regarded as the world’s preserved in the Franciscan chapel
most famous sportsman, Pelé to the left of the main entrance;
was born in Tres Corações, the statue of Christ is particularly
Minas Gerais. He started his striking. Next door to the church
career in Santos when, in 1956, is the British-built terminus of
the Santos Futebol Clube the now defunct Santos–São
signed him. Soon, he was Paulo railway. Built between 1860
Pelé during Champions World Series offered a place in the Brazilian and 1867, the station is vaguely
national team, and went on
2003, New York reminiscent of London’s Victoria.
to play in three of Brazil’s
five World Cup-winning teams. Since his retirement in 1977, The once-filthy city beaches
Pelé has worked as a charity patron Goodwill Ambassador are now much cleaner and are
for UNICEF. In 1992, he became the UN Ambassador for lively with bustling bazaars,
Ecology and Environment. In 1995, he was appointed and people playing volleyball
Minister of Sports, a post he resigned after becoming caught and football, every evening
up in one of the rumored, or real, corruption scandals that and weekend.
blight Brazilian politics. A monument to the thousands
of Japanese-Brazilians who
arrived in São Paulo state in

the early 20th century sits here, Japanese Immigration
together with the small but Brazil is home to the largest number of
popular Aquário de Santos. ethnic Japanese people outside Japan, and
In addition to a stunning range almost all their ancestors arrived at Santos.
of tropical marine life, it displays Immigration began in earnest after the Russo-
three of the five species of Japanese War (1904–5). Although Japan
sea turtles found in Brazil. emerged victorious, the penalty was high,
The beaches lying farther out leaving the poorer Japanese population with
in the Baía de Santos (Bay of a bleak future. São Paulo seemed to offer
All Saints) bustle with activity hope, as the state was rich in coffee and
at the weekends. workers were in short supply.
For all its history, it is for The first Japanese ship to land was the Kasato
football that Santos is most Maru, which brought 165 families to Santos on
famous outside Brazil. Pelé June 18, 1908. They left for the coffee plantations
played here for almost all his in the Mogiana region. By the beginning of World
professional life. The Santos War II, almost 150,000 Japanese had arrived. After
Football Club has an excellent freeing themselves from their labor contracts,
museum, the Memorial das communities began to grow in metropolitan Japanese Immigration
Conquistas, devoted to the São Paulo (see p149) and other parts of Brazil. Monument, Santos
club’s illustrious history.
 Aquário de Santos 7 São Vicente state was formerly known,

Av Bartolomeu de Gusmão, Ponta * 332,000. @ ∑ saovicente.
São Vicente won the epithet
da Praia. Tel (13) 3278 7830. sp.gov.br of “Cellula Mater” (Mother Cell)
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–8pm for being Brazil’s first organized
Sat & Sun. & The pleasant, laid-back port town town. The 18th-century Baroque
- Museu do Café of São Vicente is known more parish church, the Igreja Matriz
Rua 15 de Novembro 95. Tel (13) 3213 for its historical significance de São Vicente Mártir, is
1750. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, than the usual tourist attractions. one of the very few historical
10am–5pm Sun. & ^ 7 - In 1532, Martim Afonso de buildings in the city to have
Sousa established a small settle- survived the ravages of time.
E Pinacoteca Benedito Calixto
ment on the eastern shores of A tidal wave destroyed the
Av Bartolomeu de Gusmão 15.
South America. Thus Brazil was first church, built close to this
Tel (13) 3288 2260. Open 9am–6pm
born, in the words of Afonso’s site by Martim Afonso shortly
Tue–Sun. ^
brother, with “each man as lord after his arrival. The second
E Memorial das Conquistas of his own property, and private parish church was built inland
Rua Princesa Isabel 77, Vila Belmiro. injuries redressed, and all the on this present site. However,
Tel (13) 3257 4099. Open 1–7pm other benefits of a secure and it fared no better, and was
Mon, 9am–7pm Tue–Sun. & 8 sociable life.” São Vicente is the ransacked by pirates. The
prior booking required. ^ 7 scene of that noble beginning, current building, standing on
R Santuário Santo Antônio though only a handful of relics its ruins, is named in honor
do Valongo belonging to that distinguished of the Spanish saint who is
Largo Marquês de Monte Alegre 13. past can be found today. patron of the city.
Tel (13) 3219 1481. Open 10am–7pm First capital of the Captaincy Also in the city center are
Tue–Sun. ^ 7 of São Vicente, as São Paulo the remains of Martim Afonso’s
former home, and the first brick
building in Brazil. These are
housed inside the impressive
late 19th-century Casa Martim
Afonso, along with a few other
interesting pieces of colonial
bric-a-brac.
E Casa Martim Afonso

Praça 22 de Janeiro 469, Centro.
Tel (13) 3568 8948. Open 9am–5pm
Tue–Sun & public hols.
R Igreja Matriz de São Vicente
Mártir
Praça João Pessoa s/n, Centro. Tel (13)
3468 2658. Open 8am–7:30pm daily.
5 8am, 7pm Mon & Wed–Fri; 8am
Proud display of trophies at the Memorial das Conquistas, Santos Tue; 7pm Sat; 7:30am, 10am, 6pm Sun.
9 Iguape
* 31,000. @ n Rua Claudino P.
Silva 248, (13) 3841 3012.
∑ iguape.sp.gov.br
This pretty little colonial town

sits in a pocket of the Brazilian
coastal rainforest, the Complexo
Estuarino Lagunar de Iguape-
Cananéia biosphere reserve, a
UNESCO world heritage site.
The verdant Serra do Mar
mountains rise up behind the
Striking hills in the Mosaico Juréia-Itatins town which is surrounded by
ecosystems. It is one of the most pristine mangrove wetlands
8 Mosaico Juréia- important breeding grounds for and lowland subtropical forest
Itatins marine species in the southern on all sides including the wilds
Atlantic and the myriad forest of the two nature reserves –
@ to Iguape or Peruíbe, then taxi.
types growing here protect one Juréia-Itatins and Chauás. The
n Peruíbe: Estrada do Guaraú 4,
of the world’s greatest diversities Mirante do Morro do Espio is a
164 Bairro Guaraú, (13) 3457 9243.
of vascular plant, vertebrate, and lookout point with a fabulous
Iguape: Praça São Benedito 110,
Centro, (13) 3841 2193. 8
invertebrate species. There is a view of the port and
unique range of birds, butterflies, surrounding area.
Brazil’s coastal rainforest and mammals. Many larger Iguape was founded in 1538
stretches in a series of rippling animals, such as jaguars and by the Portuguese. No buildings
mountains and lowland forests tapirs, which have all but remain from that time but
cut by broad rivers, mangrove disappeared from coastal Brazil, the city center preserves the
wetlands, and pristine beaches, live in healthy numbers here. largest and oldest heritage-
as well as traditional fishing Juréia itself protects a wide listed collection of post-17th-
and farming communities, variety of habitats; as a result century colonial architecture
along São Paulo State’s coast. the scenery is magnificent. in the state. Most are civic
The Mosaico Juréia-Itatins Lush green forest swathes the buildings and town houses
encompasses six protected high slopes of the Serra do painted in thick primary colors
areas of rainforest, four of which Itatins in the eastern extremity and clustered around Praça São
are open to visitors – Parque of the park and continues all the Benedito, a sleepy central
Estadual Itinguçu, Parque way through to the lowland square watched over by a
Estadual Prelado, Reserva de coastal areas, mixing with towering 18th-century basilica.
Desenvolvimento Sustentável mangrove wetlands and There are also two small
da Barra do Una, and Reserva de perfuming the park’s extensive museums in the city center.
Desenvolvimento Sustentável beaches. These beautiful The Museu Histórico e
do Despraiado. Iguape is a stretches of fine sand, many of Arqueológico is housed in a
good base for information on which are cut by clear rivers or 17th-century building which
organized tours and walking washed by waterfalls, are so was once the first gold foundry
trails in these rainforest areas. deserted that caimans can in Brazil. It showcases a mixed
This region protects Atantic occasionally be seen basking bag of historical material, from
rainforest and its associated in the sun at dawn. pre-Columbian remains found
Rio Ribeira do Iguape estuary and Igreja do Rosário rising over Iguape town
in nearby middens to artifacts q Ilha do Cardoso

from the slaving era, and early g from Cananéia. n Núcleo
photographs. The Museu de Perequê, Cananéia, (13) 3851 1163,
Arte Sacra in the Basílica do (13) 3851 1108. ∑cananela.net
Bom Jesus houses some
100 ecclesiastical objects, Just a 30-minute boat ride
most of which date from the south of Cananéia, Ilha do
18th and 19th centuries. Cardoso, a rugged 58 sq-mile-
(150 sq-km-) island, rises
E Museu de Arte Sacra dramatically out of the Atlantic
Basílica do Bom Jesus de Iguape, Ocean. The island is primarily an
Praça da Basílica. Open 9–11:30am, ecological reserve which also
1–5:30pm daily. has beautiful deserted beaches
E Museu Histórico e Stuffed great white shark, Museu and walking trails. Together
Arqueológico Municipal, Cananéia with Juréia-Itatins, this forms
Rua das Neves 45. Tel (13) 3841 part of the longest stretch of
3012. Open 8:30am–11:30am, from the docks in Cananéia to preserved coastal rainforest in
1–5pm daily. & Ilha do Cardoso, which is a a Brazil. Wetlands, mangroves,
breeding ground for several extensive beaches, coastal
Environs marine species. Car and dunes, and all of the numerous
Just across the Rio Ribeira do passenger rafts take 10 minutes forest types associated with the
Iguape estuary, east of the town to ferry across the estuary in Mata Atlântica are found here.
center, are extensive stretches of front of the town to the southern Several species of turtle nest on
fine white-sand beaches which reaches of the Ilha Comprida, the island, caimans live in the
make up the island of Ilha east of Iguape, and do so several rivers and estuaries, and jaguars
Comprida. They are accessible times per day. The beaches here and pumas still hunt in the
by road, or a 5-mile (8-km) walk lie a short distance beyond the forests that cover the upper
across the estuary and sand flats island’s ferry port along a sandy reaches. The island is also rich
via the pedestrian bridge. road, which is lined with several in birdlife.
Boqueirão Norte, located tumble-down pousadas. Pre-Columbian shell middens,
immediately across the town, While in Cananéia, it is worth or sambaquis, dot the park’s
and Praia do Viareggio, 6 miles visiting the tiny town museum, beaches and seven traditional
(10 km) south, are popular in Museu Municipal, which caiçara fishing communities live
high season and lined with preserves bits of nautical within the park, preserving a
holiday homes. Farther south miscellany. Pride of place among semi-indigenous way of life
still and reachable by dune the exhibits goes to what is which has so far largely resisted
buggy or by car is the far quieter reputed to be the second largest the pressures of urbanization.
Praia das Pedrinhas. great white shark ever, weighing Caiçara tidal fish traps can be
a hefty 7,716 lb (3,500 kg), now seen in the shallows of the
stuffed, painted, and hanging various little rivers and bays,
0 Cananéia safely from the museum ceiling. attesting to the strong
* 14,000. @ n Praça Martin Afonso indigenous heritage the
de Souza s/n, Centro, (13) 3851 1931. E Museu Municipal communities preserve to this
∑ cananeia.sp.gov.br Rua Tristão Lobo 78. Tel (13) 3851 1753. day. Many of the caiçaras act as
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. & guides and boatmen.
Cananéia is the farthest south
of São Paulo’s colonial seaside
towns, and like the others it lies
nestled at the feet of the Serra
do Mar mountains overlooking
stretches of mangrove dotted
with forest-covered islands.
Outside of the high season few
visitors ever make it here and
the town’s crumbling colonial
streets and central square often
have a sleepy feel to them.
The most compelling reason
to come to Cananéia is to take a
boat trip out to the beaches
and islands that are heritage-
listed by UNESCO as part of the
Lagamar estuary. Fishing boats
and launches can be chartered Virgin beach on Ilha do Cardoso, near Cananéia
northeast
brazil
Introducing Northeast Brazil 178–183

Bahia 184–211
Sergipe, Alagoas
& Pernambuco 212–229
Paraíba, Rio Grande
do Norte & Ceará 230–247
Piauí & Maranhão 248–259
178  NORTHEAST BRAZIL
Northeast Brazil at a Glance

Comprising the nine states of Bahia, Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco, Fernando
de Noronha
Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, Ceará, Piauí, and Maranhão, the
Northeast is truly a tropical paradise. Most of the states have three BRAZIL NORTHEAST
distinct areas – the fertile coastal strips with idyllic sand beaches BRAZIL
giving way to the intermediate hilly areas with lush Atlantic

rainforests, also home to a variety of fauna, and finally the vast
semi-arid interiors. The beaches here range from the fascinating
Canoa Quebrada beach in Ceará, to Genipabu and its sand dunes
in Rio Grande do Norte, Porto de Galinhas in Pernambuco, and
the Fernando de Noronha archipelago, among many others.
The legacy of the Northeast’s colonial history can still be
seen in numerous, impressive historic monuments
in Salvador, Olinda, and São Luís.
São Luís
Parnaíba
Santa Inês
Teresina
Imperatriz
PIAUÍ &
MARANHÃO
(See pp248–59)
Floriano
Balsas
São Luís (see pp256–8), capital of Maranhão, was

founded by the French. It is a town with a beautiful
historic core, Centro Histórico, with cobbled streets
and 5,600 pastel-colored colonial buildings, which Teresina
have been renovated. A UNESCO World Heritage (see p252)
Site, it is one of Brazil’s finest examples of
Portuguese architecture.
BAHIA
(See pp184–211)
Barreiras
Lençóis
0 km 200
Lençóis (see p208), in Bahia, is the perfect starting point to explore the
Chapada’s caves and waterfalls, or to hike up the 3,937-ft (1,200-m) 0 miles 200
surrounding peaks. Miners flocked to this area during the gold and
diamond rush.
Dazzling white sand surrounds a lagoon at Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses, Maranhão
INTRODUCING NORTHEAST BRAZIL  179
Fernando de Noronha
Fernando de Noronha (see pp228–9), part of

Pernambuco, comprises 21 islands. The warm, clear
0 km 3
waters here offer Brazil’s best scuba diving and
0 miles 3 snorkeling experience.
Sobral
Fortaleza
Mossoró
PARAÍBA,
RIO GRANDE DO Natal
NORTE & CEARÁ
Picos (See pp230–47)
João
Pessoa
Salgueiro
Recife
SERGIPE, ALAGOAS
& PERNAMBUCO
Petrolina (See pp212–29)
Maceió Natal (see p240), capital of Rio Grande do
Norte, is a popular sunshine destination.
Recife The beaches around Natal, with their huge
Aracaju (see pp220–23) moving dunes shaped by the shifting
wind, create fascinating landscapes of
snowy white sand.
Feira de
Santana Alagoinhas
Salvador
Jequié
Itabuna
Teixera
de Freitas Salvador (see pp188–99), capital of Bahia, has beautifully restored complexes of
Baroque churches and palaces, built during the 18th-century sugar boom. Its
historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers a unique glimpse into
Brazil’s history and is the crown jewel of Portuguese architecture.
Afro-Brazilian Culture
A direct legacy of three centuries of slavery, there is a
particularly strong presence of African culture in the
Northeast of Brazil. Throughout the slavery period in
colonial Brazil, there was little or no sanction on
miscegenation. Over the years, masters, slaves, former
slaves, and their descendants integrated into the new
society of Brazil, creating an interesting blend of cultures
and bloodlines with Portuguese, Dutch, West African,
and Indian elements. This has uniquely resulted in what
is now called Afro-Brazilian culture, visible in the people, Colorful ribbons, bringing luck if tied
clothing, food (see pp182–3), religion, and music. around the wrist
Music
Africans brought along their fine command of
percussion. Bahia’s characteristic brand of Afro-
Brazilian music grew in many forms, with axé
becoming the signature sound of Salvador’s
Carnaval. In Pernambuco, as many as 13 distinct
rhythms developed, including Recife’s signature
beat, frevó (see p221). During the 20th century,
African music became part of the mainstream.
Samba won acceptance in the 1930s.
Pop star Carlinhos

Brown is one of the
traditional singers
who have become
world-famous with
their percussion-heavy
rhythms. This noted
advocate of Afro-
Brazilian culture hails
from Bahia.
Capoeira
A rhythmic, dance-like form of martial arts, capoeira was once
practised only by slaves and former slaves. Over the years, it came
to put less emphasis on fighting and more on the cooperative
elements of dance and display, with rhythmic, graceful
moves (see p203). Capoeira was a
way for the slaves to
continue practicing
Traditional instruments martial arts, with kicks
used in capoeira mainly disguised as fluid
constitute berimbau, a body movements.
single-stringed percussion Increasingly popu-
instrument featuring a steel lar, today it is
string and a hollowed-out taught and
gourd; atabaque, a large performed all
drum, and the pandeiro, over the region,
which resembles a and indeed
tambourine. the world.
INTRODUCING NORTHEAST BRAZIL  181
Religion
Of West African origin, most of Brazil’s
original slave population believed in
a pantheon of deities, or orixás (see
p198). Each orixá was endowed with
its own personality and unique
powers, and was associated with a
particular set of natural elements.
The Portuguese, however, insisted
that all new arrivals be forcibly
converted to Catholicism. The Festive celebrations, such as the Lavagem do Bonfim (see
struggle gave rise to Candomblé, p199), can be experienced in and around Salvador. The day is
a blending of Catholicism and the meant to honor Yemanjá, the Goddess of the Sea. The
African beliefs (see p39). ceremonies blend Catholic-style processions with African
beats and music.
Arts & Crafts

Many of the Bahian arts and crafts are strongly
influenced by Afro-Brazilian traditions. The Mercado
Modelo (see p196) in Salvador is a good place for
souvenirs. Look for berimbaus and percussion
instruments, sometimes painted in bright colors, as
well as masks and pottery.
Wooden Masks are

intricately carved and
decorated with stones,
shells, and beads. The
northeastern masks are
allegoric representations of
the orixás.
Colorful figurines are produced by local

artisans as part of the rich pottery tradition
in the Northeast. Drawn from popular
folklore, these figurines are sold throughout
the region.
Dress
The most striking sartorial examples of African influence are the Baianas, the
women in turbans and long white dresses, often seen on the streets of
Salvador selling acarajé (see p183). The ensemble is believed to be derived
from the traditional dress of women in Nigeria. While their dresses are often
similar, each Baiana wears a different set of jewelry to pay homage to her
particular orixá (deity).
Colorful beads A young Baiana

and trinkets can in traditional
be bought from the dress of layers of
Baianas. Every color starched lace
is known to denote skirts, a shoulder
a specific orixá; cloth, high turban,
the blue is for and yellow and
Oshun, while red white beads and
represents Yansã. accessories.
182  NorTheAsT BrAzil
The Flavors of Northeast Brazil

Northeast Brazil has two distinct regional cuisines, a reflection of
both culture and climate. The narrow, densely populated coast,
rich in fresh fruit and sugar cane and bordered by a generous
sea, is home to an African-descended population who
flavor their food with coconut milk and red dendê (palm)
oil. The interior, or sertão, is arid semi-desert, largely given
over to cattle tended by the cowboy descendents of
Portuguese immigrants. The interior cuisine consists of
sober, simple dishes, whose staples include sun-dried meat, Spicy cayenne pepper
manioc (cassava) root, rice, and black beans.
as often, goat – in the root is known as macaxeira.

Northeast is usually either sun- Plain ground manioc flour
dried (carne de sol) or air-dried (farinha) is often served as a
and heavily salted (carne seca). side dish; locals put it in their
Both are served in small morning coffee. Pan-fried
portions, often shredded, and with a little oil, the manioc
mixed in with either beans, flour becomes another
rice, or manioc. Manioc, common side dish, farofa.
indeed, is a centerpiece of Finally, the lighter parts of the
northeastern cooking. Sliced manioc root are made into
into strips and fried, the tapioca, the base ingredient
sweeter version of this versatile of desserts and breakfast
Distinctive caju fruit of the cashew tree,
showing the nut Clam Lobster Octopus
Giant shrimp
Cozinha Nordestina Squid Red mullet
When Brazilians refer to
cozinha nordestina (north-
eastern food) they usually
mean the dishes of the hot, dry
hinterland. Fresh ingredients
are few here, and refrigeration
virtually nonexistent.
Ingredients include the more
resilient vegetables such as
beans, corn and, especially,
manioc. Meat – beef or, just Some of the fish and seafood of Brazil’s Atlantic coastline
Regional Dishes & Specialties

Bahian cuisine is the most popular and
sophisticated in all of the Northeast.
The cooking is characterized by the
use of coconut milk, hot peppers,
and, importantly, dendê oil, which
gives the dishes their deep orange color.
Dendê oil This oil is extracted from a palm tree that
was brought to Brazil by African slaves.
Signature Bahian dishes include moqueca,
vatapá, and bobó de camarão. All are variations on a tasty
seafood stew. Traditionally, a moqueca is cooked in a large clay
pot and served with white rice and a serving of pirão, a manioc
paste. Both bobó de camarão and camarão na moranga (see p385)
feature large, juicy prawns cooked in coconut milk. The camarão na Bolinho de bacalhau is a
moranga comes served in a hollowed-out pumpkin shell, Portuguese snack made from
its broth thickened with the addition of fresh, sweet pumpkin, mashed potatoes and shredded
locally called jerimum. salt cod.
introducing northeast brazil  183
Acarajé
Acarajé is one of the most
popular snacks, especially in
Bahia. Cooked only by Baianas,
it was originally served as an
offering to Yansã, the Goddess
of Tempests. Balls of mashed
black-eyed beans are fried in
dendê oil, then cut open and
served with dried shrimp,
vatapá (shrimp paste), caruru
(okra stew), and hot sauce.
Baiana woman in traditional all-white costume, selling acarajé Abará is another kind of acarajé,
steamed and served on a ban-
pancakes. Desserts in the is the cavaquinha, a small ana leaf with the same toppings.
Northeast are usually simple lobster known for its sweet
mixtures of sugar and tapioca and tender meat, but the full- On thE MEnu
or cornflour, often covered in size south Atlantic lobster
condensed milk. Also popular is also found to the north, Baião de dois Made with rice,
are small and intensely sweet around Ceará. Large and beans, cheese, and garlic, this
succulent shrimp are another dish is often served with sun-
portions of dried and
or air-dried meat.
concentrated fruits, such as regular menu item. However,
caju (cashew), jaca (jackfruit), the tastiest northeastern Caldo de sururu A rich broth
goiaba (guava), and banana, shrimp, the pitu, is a freshwater made from tiny clams with
usually consumed together variety. Spicy pitu moqueca coconut milk, dendê oil,
with a small, very sweet cup is among the best featured coriander, and spices.
of coffee. on any menu. Carne de sol Goat meat or beef
is sun-dried to seal in moisture. It
may be served grilled or sautéed.
Fish & Seafood Casquinha de siri A savory
The long Atlantic coastline appetizer of shredded crab-
from Bahia to Maranhão yields meat flavored with coriander,
a wealth of fish, shellfish, and coconut milk, and spices.
crustaceans. Everywhere on t
tapioca Small pancakes made
the coast, the guaiamu, a small, with tapioca, served stuffed with
blue-shelled crab with tasty sweet or savory fillings.
meat, is usually steamed and Xinxim de galinha Chicken
served up as an appetizer. sautéed in dendê oil with ginger,
Larger, soft-shelled crabs are dried shrimp, and cashew nuts.
also popular, served steamed Served with white rice and
and eaten whole, including Grated manioc root ready to be processed manioc flour.
the shell. Another crustacean into tapioca
Moqueca is a rich fish dish Ensopado is a seafood and Cocada is a sweet made with
made with coconut milk, dendê coconut milk stew made sugar and coconut. The darker
oil, cayenne pepper, and without dendê oil, making it variety is sweetened with dried
coriander (cilantro). lighter in flavor. sugar-cane juice.
BAHIA
The largest state in the Northeast, Bahia is known for its endless
stretches of stunning beach along the Atlantic coast. The idyllic
white-sand coast is dotted with laid-back resorts along its
length. Beyond the gorgeous beaches and plains, where most of
Bahia’s population lives today, lies the sertão, an arid semi-desert
partially covered in caatinga, a dry scrub forrest rich in plant and bird life.
When the Portuguese first arrived in Bahia was also the key point of entry for
Bahia in 1500, the entire 621-mile the thousands of slaves brought to Brazil
(1,000-km) coastline was covered in a from ports in Africa. The legacy of that
swathe of lush green Atlantic rainforest. transatlantic trade can be seen in Bahia’s
Today, only a few pockets of the cultural diversity. The state has Brazil’s
rainforest remain along the coast in highest percentage of Afro-Brazilian
isolated patches. Inland from the coast, residents. Bahia’s percussion-driven music,
the Portuguese successfully established the fast fight-dance known as capoeira,
the cultivation of sugar cane, and later and the spiritualist Yoruban Candomblé
cotton and cocoa in the Recôncavo, a religion all have their roots in Africa.
narrow, flat, well-watered plain, which In addition to these legacies, visitors
they called the agreste. to Bahia can experience one of Brazil’s
Bahia played a key role in the history of longest and most beautiful coastlines.
Brazil. Salvador, its capital, was founded in Fine beach resorts such as Praia do Forte
1549, and served for over two centuries as and Costa do Sauípe lie to the north of
the administrative and political center of Salvador. To the capital’s south, there are
colonial Brazil. The legacy of that period small villages such as Morro de São Paulo
is on display in Salvador’s colonial core, and Itacaré. Inland, Bahia provides unique
Pelourinho, a jewel of colonial Baroque hiking amid the mesas and valleys of
churches, cathedrals, and palaces. the Chapada Diamantina.
A view of the Parque Nacional Marinho dos Abrolhos, comprising an archipelago of five islands
The bright colors of Pelourinho’s Old Town
Exploring Bahia
Living up to its official motto, Sorria, você está na Bahia
(Smile, you’re in Bahia), Bahia offers a diverse range of
sights. The extensive coastline varies from fine Linha Verde
resorts to sleepy villages with stunning unspoilt beaches
Paçarrão
such as Trancoso. Salvador and the historic towns of the Sento Sé
Recôncavo provide fascinating glimpses into Brazil’s history.
The Chapada Diamantina is a highland region that
Barragem de
resembles the mesas of Arizona and New Mexico in Sobradinho Delfino
Southwest USA. Lençois, founded during the area’s
Ja
c
itre
ar
19th-century gold and diamond rush, boasts caverns,
é
Umburanas
Sal
waterfalls, and some of Brazil’s best hiking. Xique-Xique
Sights at a Glance Central

Capixaba
Irecê Morro do
Towns & Cities
Chapéu
Morpara
1 Salvador pp188–99
3 Santo Amaro
Ipupiara B A H I A
n t i na
4 Cachoeira Brotas de
Utinga
Ibotirama Macaúbas
5 São Félix
Wagner
ma
8 Itacaré Brasília
9 Ilhéus
Dia
LENÇÓIS
0 Porto Seguro
Paratinga PARQUE NACIONAL DE
q Trancoso
CHAPADA DIAMANTINA Iaetê
e Lençóis
Macaúbas
a
t Canudos
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Piatã
Brasília Bom Jesus Iramaia
ap
da Lapa Paramirim
o
National Parks
Ch
Br
cisc
um Barra da
ad Estiva
w Parque Nacional Marinho de Riacho de o
Fran
Abrolhos Santana
Ituaçu
r Parque Nacional de Chapada
São
Caetité
Diamantina pp208–9 Brumado
Carinhanha Guanambi
Areas of Natural Beauty Aracatu
Anagé
2 Ilha de Itaparica Pequen Caculé
rde o
ão
6 Morro de São Paulo Ve vi

Ga
Urandi Vitória da
7 Peninsula de Maraú
Conquista
Beaches & Resorts 0 kilometers 100
y Linha Verde p211
0 miles 100
Belo Horizonte,
Rio de Janeiro
Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
State border
Peak
A white-sand beach resort near Itacaré, with palm trees lining the shore
bahia  187
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CACHOEIRA SANTO AMARO

Itaberaba
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Amargosa ITAPARICA
Maracás MORRO DE SÃO

PAULO
Jequié
Camamu PENINSULA
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Vitorino Marau
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A Baiana under Mario Cravo’s towering
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Itapebi Belmonte
Santa Cruz Cabrália Getting Around

Bahia is large, and the roads are mostly precarious.
PORTO SEGURO However, the Linha Verde (BA-099), which runs north
Guaratinga
TRANCOSO along the coast from Salvador to the border with
Jucur
uçu
Sergipe, provides easy, quick access to the beach
Itamaraju Monte Pascoal
Itanhém 1,758 ft (536 m) towns. South from Salvador, the BR-101 runs parallel
to the coast, about 37 miles (60 km) inland. Access
Prado to beach towns on the southern coast is via
Itanhém
Alcobaça secondary roads. The best way to get around
Ibiranhém is to fly to one of the major destinations, such as
Caravelas
Helvécia Salvador, Ilhéus, or Porto Seguro, and proceed by
bus to explore the surrounding regions. The main
Vitória, Mucuri
Rio de PARQUE NACIONAL
destination inland, the Chapada Diamantina, is a
Janeiro MARINHO DE ABROLHOS drive from Salvador on the BR-324, BR-116, and
BR-242 highways. Lençóis in the Chapada
Diamantina can be reached by road and plane.
1 Salvador
Founded by the Portuguese in 1549 on the protective shores
of the Baía de Todos os Santos (Bay of All Saints), Salvador is
Brazil’s fourth-largest city, after São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, and
Belo Horizonte. Modern Salvador offers a fascinating blend
of old and new. In the colonial heart, Pelourinho, the
cobblestoned streets are lined with the restored 17th- and
18th-century palaces and Baroque churches. The city’s recent
growth has been eastwards along the beaches that face the
Atlantic. The city’s vibrant community of musicians draws
from the region’s African and Portuguese heritage, blending Azulejos in the cloisters of Igreja e
Convento de São Francisco
these into a unique Bahian sound.
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Historic Buildings, Streets, Å

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Towns & Neighborhoods Terminal D

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1 Pelourinho pp190–91 Turístico ER
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2 Fundação Casa de D
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7 Praça da Sé
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8 Palácio Rio Branco Baía de Todos

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Churches, Cathedrals & ALTA

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y Nosso Senhor do Bonfim
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Museums
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3 Museu Tempostal
4 Museu Afro-Brasileiro
PRAÇA
q Museu de Arte Sacra
LA
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ALVES
w Solar do Unhão
e Museu de Arte da Bahia
r Museu Rodin-Bahia
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p375 and p391
SALVADOR  189
Getting Around VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Most of the attractions in Salvador are concentrated in
Cidade Alta (Upper City), linked to the Cidade Baixa (Lower Practical Information
City) by a funicular railway and the Carlos Lacerda elevator. * 2,900,000. n Corner of Rua
The historic neighborhood of Pelourinho is located João & Laranjeiras, Pelourinho,
downtown, on top of a bluff overlooking the harbor. The (71) 3321-2133.
main sights outside Pelourinho are within walking distance ( daily market at Mercado
of the bustling waterfront. Bus services easily connect to Modelo, Praça Cayru, (71) 3241
2893. _ Lavagem do Bonfim
every part of the city. Travelers coming from the south
(Jan), Carnaval (Feb/Mar).
can take BR-101 around the Baía de Todos os Santos and ∑ bahiatursa.ba.gov.br
connect to the BR-324. Those arriving from the north
can follow the BR-009, called the Linha Verde. Transport
k ~ 22 miles (35 km) from city
center. @ Av Antônio Carlos
Magalhães 4362, Pernambués,
(71) 3616 8357/8358.
. g Av Oscar Pontes 1051,
E. A
R P MES (71) 3254 1020.
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DA B A R R O Q U
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LA D
Major road
Minor road
Railroad

1 Street-by-Street: Pelourinho
The crown jewel of Salvador is the restored historic center,
Pelourinho, which means whipping post. This originally
described only the small triangular plaza in the heart of the
city where slaves were publicly flogged. Located on a high
bluff overlooking the commercial city below, Pelourinho was
built by the Portuguese in the boom years of the 18th and
19th centuries as a residential and administrative center.
Abandoned for a greater part of the 20th century, Pelourinho
was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. Today, 4 . Museu Afro-Brasileiro
visitors can explore its magnificent colonial houses, Baroque The large wood carvings of
the Candomblé deities by
churches, and museums. renowned artist Carybé are the
highlights of this museum of Afro-
Brazilian culture.
5 Catedral Basílica
Built in 1657, the renovated cathedral has a
cedar-wood altar, and two smaller side altars,
both covered in thin layers of gold
LA
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7 Praça da Sé offers views
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across the Baía de Todos

C
os Santos
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squares in Pelourinho, was

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laid out in 1549 by

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governor Tome de Souza.
Pastel-hued buildings along the slope of Pelourinho
6 . Igreja e Convento de
Key São Francisco
Suggested route A silver chandelier weighing
176 lb (80 kg) hangs over
the ornate carvings
of this richly embellished church
SALVADOR  191
Bahia. n Rua Laranjeiras 12, (71)
3321 2133. Open 8:30am–11pm
daily. _ Terça da Benção (every
Tue). Igreja Nossa Senhora do
Rosário dos Pretos: Praça José de
Alencar s/n. Open 8am–5pm
Locator Map daily (Sat & Sun: to noon). 5
See Salvador map pp188–9 6pm Tue, 10am Sun. Igreja da
Ordem Terceira de São Francisco:
Igreja Nossa Senhora Rua Inácio Accioli. Tel (71) 3321
do Rosário dos Pretos 6968. Open 8:30am–5pm daily.
Built by slaves in the 5 8:30am Wed & Sun. &
18th century, the church
remains the center of Transport
O
@ Barra from Praça da Sé.

Afro-Brazilian traditions
IT
in Pelourinho.
BR
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2 . Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado

S
AT TOS
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The lovely café inside Foundation House, which is

E
D
dedicated to the life of one of Brazil’s most famous

E
authors, is decorated with hundreds of book jackets

D
DE M
from Amado’s novels published around the world.

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Museu Abelardo Rodrigues

S
A
Solar do Ferrão
One of Brazil’s largest private
collections of sacred art is
housed here.
Igreja da Ordem Terceira

de São Francisco
The fine 18th-century
sandstone façade of
this church was
rediscovered only in the
1930s. Craftsmen chipped
away at plaster for nine
years to reveal this
marvelous building.
2 Fundação Casa
de Jorge Amado
Largo do Pelourinho s/n. Tel (71)
3321 0070. Open 10am–6pm Mon–
Fri, 10am–4pm Sat. ∑ jorgeamado.
org.br
Although Brazilian author Jorge
Amado (1912–2001) never lived
in Pelourinho, many of his
beloved novels were set in this
neighborhood (see p204).
Opened in 1987, the Casa de
Jorge Amado is a small museum
housed in a pretty blue colonial Antique postcard displayed at the Museu Tempostal
building located at the top end
of Largo do Pelourinho. It is one has developed and grown. 5 Catedral Basílica
of the main monuments dedi Some cards are enlarged to Praça XV de Novembro, Terreiro de
cated to Bahia’s most famous give visitors a better view of Jesus s/n. Tel (71) 3321 4573.
author. Its four floors comprise the photographic details. A Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm
the entire archive of his work smaller exhibit of belle époque Sun. 5 11am–noon Sun; Baroque
and include a research center. postcards showcases some concert held every Sun at 11am. &
The collection on display elaborate samples of postcard
consists mostly of covers of his “art,” some adorned with Salvador’s main cathedral, built
books and personal belongings embroidery, others painted between 1657 and 1672, is
that tell the story of his life. like aquarelles. considered to be one of the
A mural on the ground floor richest examples of Portuguese
shows the languages into which Baroque architecture. The
his works have been translated – 4 Museu Afro- cathedral’s façade is made of
over 49 in total. Brasileiro Portuguese lioz, a type of
limestone. The interior walls and
Praça XV de Novembro, Terreiro de
Jesus s/n. Tel (71) 3283 5540. tall pillars are also covered with
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. & the palecolored stone, giving
the church a bright and
This small museum in the spacious feel.
former Faculty of Medicine The vaulted ceiling of the
building houses a collection main nave is made from wood.
of photographs, artwork, and The decorations are carved in
artifacts all related to the African relief and stand out from the
diaspora in Brazil. The main ceiling with an almost three
exhibit displays objects and dimensional effect. The main
crafts from the original African altar and two smaller side altars
cultures of regions such as are also carved out of wood
Covers of Amado’s books exhibited at Angola and Nigeria where and covered in gold leaf.
Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado Brazilbound slaves were Dedicated to St. Francis, the
captured. The highlight of the altar contains a silverplated
collection is the 27 lifesized statue of Nossa Senhora das
3 Museu Tempostal wood carvings of the orixás Maravilhas (Our Lady of
Rua Gregorio de Matos 33,
(see p181) by Bahian Miracles), which is said
Pelourinho. Tel (71) 3117 6383. artist Carybé (1911– to have inspired Father
Open noon–6pm Tue–Fri, 97), depicting their Antônio Vieira, a
noon–5pm Sat & Sun. & weapons and regalia, 17thcentury Jesuit
together with the animals priest who fought
Housed in a beautiful colonial or domain over which against the enslavement
building in the heart of they are thought to rule. of indigenous people.
Pelourinho, this museum Yemanjá, Goddess of His fiery, antislavery
displays only a fraction of the Sea, is shown with sermons did not sit well
founder Antônio Marcelino’s a fish and seashells with the Inquisition, who
collection of 30,000 postcards and the mirrors and subsequently ordered his
and photographs. Most date trinkets offered to her arrest. The former Jesuit
from the 19th and 20th by supplicants; the library now holds a
centuries. Antique postcards warrior Ogun is Yansã, Candomblé Goddess of small museum of
comprising the main display shown with his Tempests, at Museu religious art. The
tell the history of Salvador as it sword and armor. Afro-Brasileiro collection includes
SALVADOR  193
silver and gold religious artifacts so people can linger and enjoy the Palácio Rio Branco was
such as chalices and candle the capoeira presentations or rededicated in 1986 as a cultural
holders. The most modern other cultural events often held foundation, the Centro Memoria
piece in the cathedral is the in the square. da Bahia. The former reception
powerful German organ with There is a lookout point, the hall on the ground floor now
more than 500 pipes, 18 Belvedere, on the north side of tells the history of Bahia’s 40
registers, and two keyboards. the square which provides a governors through paintings,
beautiful view of the Lower City historic documents, and their
and the Baía de Todos os Santos personal belongings.
(Bay of All Saints). The fine interior is a blend
of Rococo plasterwork and
frescoes. Of particular note
8 Palácio Rio are the big dome and the
Branco magnificent views from the
Praça Tomé de Sousa s/n. Tel (71)
belvedere in the wing looking
3116 6928. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, onto the sea, as well as the iron
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. and crystal stairway and a
sculpture representing Tomé
The original Palácio Rio Branco de Souza.
has nothing in common with
the building that currently goes
by that name. The first palace
was built on this site in 1549 to
Altar of Catedral Basílica, the main house Bahia’s first governor,
cathedral of Salvador Tomé de Sousa. The Portuguese
queen and later the prince
regent resided in this palace
6 Igreja e Convento temporarily in 1808, when the
de São Francisco entire Portuguese court
See pp194–5.
relocated to Rio de Janeiro in
order to escape Napoleon’s
invasion of Portugal (see p56).
The building survived until 1900,
7 Praça da Sé when the whole structure was
leveled and then rebuilt from
Pelourinho’s Praça da Sé blends scratch in Renaissance style.
the modern with the historic. A fire in 1912 forced another
The square is a transition point major overhaul by the Italian
between the Terreiro de Jesus architect Júlio Conti, giving the
and the Praça Tomé de Sousa. building the eclectic look it still Art Deco Elevador Lacerda with market
Extensive renovations have has today. Used as an official stalls below
added fountains and benches, government building until 1979,
9 Elevador Lacerda
Praça Tomé de Sousa s/n (Upper City);
Praça Visconde Cairu (Lower City).
Open 6am–11pm. & 7
Built by merchant Antônio

Francisco de Lacerda in
1873 from the original Jesuit
installed manual pulley, the
famous Elevador Lacerda
connects Salvador’s Upper
and Lower cities.
The Elevador Lacerda is a
popular site in Salvador, used by
more than 30,000 people daily.
The elevator’s current Art Deco
look dates from a 1930s
restoration. Four elevators make
the 236ft (72m) trip up vertical
shafts in just 30 seconds, where
the view across the bay on a
Preparations for a cultural show outside Palácio Rio Branco clear day is simply stunning.
6 Igreja e Convento de São Francisco

The complex of the Church and Convent of St. Francis, which
was constructed between 1708 and 1750, is one of Brazil’s
most impressive Baroque monuments. The convent’s church
stands out for its rich and opulent interior. The inner walls and
the ceiling are largely covered in gold leaf. The main altar and
the large side altars are magnificently carved out of wood and
in typical Baroque style, ornately decorated with angels, birds,
mermaids, fruits, and leaves. An enormous silver chandelier
hangs above intricate wooden carvings, and hand-painted
blue-and-white Portuguese tiles.
. Franciscan Shield
Featuring the crossed forearms
of Jesus and St. Francis, the shield
represents the bond between
the two.
São Pedro de Alcântara

The altar of São Pedro de
Alcântara, carved by Brazilian
artist Manuel Inácio da Costa,
is a particularly fine example
of Brazilian Baroque.
Façade
The church façade dominates
the Largo de São Francisco with
imposing twin bell towers.
Oil Painting of
KEY St. Francis
The oil painting
1 Doors and windows in bright depicting an event in
tones adorn the outer walls of the life of St. Francis in
the church. the church entryway
2 Detailing of pure gold leaf is one of the classic
decorates the church interior. examples of Brazilian
Baroque Illusionism.
SALVADOR  195
. Main Altar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

A statue of Jesus on the cross
with St. Francis by his side
graces the main altar. The blue-
Largo Cruzeiro de São Francisco,
and-white tiles behind the main
Praça Anchieta, Pelourinho.
altar tell the life story of the
Tel (71) 3322 6430.
saint. The gold-and-white motif
Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Sat,
is offset by dark jacaranda
10am–3pm Sun.
wood hand railings. &87
Igreja Terceira Ordem de São
Francisco: Rua Inácio Accioli.
Open 8am–5pm daily. &
Cloisters
These secluded interior arcades are where
the monks of St. Francis would gather for
prayer or quiet contemplation.
Black Saint, Saint

Benedict
Two of the side
altars are dedicated
to black saints such
as Santa Efigênia, an
Ethiopian princess,
and São Bento, the
son of African slaves.
Igreja Terceira Ordem de São Francisco

The ornately carved and
detailed sandstone façade of
the church of the Third Order
of St. Francis next door is the
only one of its kind in Brazil.
. Azulejos The façade remained hidden
Brought over from for many years behind a layer
Portugal in 1743, of plaster, only to be
the decorative tiles uncovered accidentally when
are based on the wiring was being installed in
etchings by Flemish the 1930s. The church also
painter Otto van has a museum and a room Soapstone exterior of
Veen in his book of Franciscan tombs. the church
of moral emblems.
Pretty lace hammocks displayed in the stalls outside the Mercado Modelo
0 Mercado Modelo candlesticks, chalices, censors, of the 17th century – a chapel,

Praça Visconde de Cairu, Comércio,
and other artifacts from the a big house with slave quarters
Cidade Baixa. Tel (71) 3241 2893. 16th to 19th centuries. on the lower floor, and a large
Open 9am–7pm Mon–Sat, mill where cane was
9am–2pm Sun. transformed into sugar.
During the sugar boom of
The Mercado Modelo was built the 18th century, the owners
in 1861 as a customs building. added a courtyard fountain
The square behind the market, and a full-size church, Nossa
now used by capoeiristas Senhora da Coneição. After the
(see p203), was where boats sugar trade collapsed in the
would dock to unload their 19th century, the Solar was
merchandise for inspection. used variously as a factory, a
The building was transformed warehouse, and naval barracks.
into an indoor craft market in Finally, in the 1940s it was
1971, and renovated after a designated a National Historic
major fire in 1984. Nowadays, Monument and chosen as the
the Mercado’s two floors house site for the Museu de Arte
259 stalls that offer a variety of Moderna. A series of
northeastern arts and crafts. The Museu de Arte Sacra, housed in a renovations restored the
Popular items include naive 17th-century convent buildings to their former glory,
art paintings of Pelourinho, while upgrading the facilities
berimbaus (a stringed to include eight exhibit rooms,
instrument), embroidered w Solar do Unhão a theater, and a library.
lace tablecloths, hammocks, Av do Contorno s/n. Tel (71) 3117
The complex also houses an
colorful hats, spices, and sweets. 6132. Museu de Arte Moderna: excellent restaurant, besides
Open 1–7pm Tue–Fri, 2–7pm Sat & displaying paintings, etchings,
and sculptures by some of
q Museu de Arte Sun. Tel (71) 3117 6132.
Brazil’s best-known modern
Sacra A renovated colonial sugar mill, artists. In the evenings, it hosts
Rua do Sodré 276. Cidade Alta.
the Solar do Unhão beautifully a presentation of traditional
Tel (71) 3283 5600. blends the old and the new. Bahian dance and folklore, held
Open 11:30am–5:30pm Mon–Fri. & The original design is typical in the former slave quarters.
One of Brazil’s best collections

of religious art can be found
in this museum, which is
housed in a former Carmelite
convent. The serene and
beautiful structure was built
between 1667 and 1697, and
serves as the perfect backdrop
for the varied exhibits, which
include statues, icons,
paintings, oratorios (portable
altars), and numerous finely
wrought silver crosses, Exterior of the Solar do Unhão, once a colonial sugar mill
SALVADOR  197
e Museu de Arte
da Bahia
Av 7 de Setembro 2340, Vitória.
Tel (71) 3117 6903. Open 2–7pm Tue–
Sun. &
The Museu de Arte da Bahia
offers a glimpse of the opulent
lifestyle of Salvador’s colonial
elite. The collection includes
paintings, azulejos, furniture,
silverware, glass, china, and
crystal used by the local ruling
families during the 18th, 19th,
and early 20th centuries.
The south wing holds land- The Forte de Santo Antônio, topped by the lighthouse
scape paintings by such artists
as José Joaquim da Rocha. tForte de Santo originally built in 1698, and is
Antônio still used by boats navigating
the entrance to the bay.
r Museu Rodin- Praça Almirante Tamandaré, Largo do Inside the fort, the Museu
Bahia Farol s/n, Barra. Tel (71) 3264 3296.
Open 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun. &
Hidrográfico (Museum of
Rua Graca 284. Tel (71) 3117
Hydrography) shows historic
6910. Open 1–7pm Tue–Fri, One of Salvador’s best-known navigation instruments and a
2–7pm Sat & Sun. landmarks, the Forte Santo variety of charts. There is also a
Antônio was erected in 1535. notable collection of coins and
This small museum, in a 19th- The fort was strengthened in China from a Portuguese
century mansion near Barra, the early 17th century, in galleon that foundered in 1668,
holds four original Rodin sculp- response to Dutch attacks on off Rio Vermelho beach.
tures and 62 models made by the coast, and upgraded to its The fort also boasts a café
Rodin prior to construction of present star shape at the with an outdoor terrace
the final pieces. Among them beginning of the 18th century. offering sweeping views of
are The Kiss and The Thinker. A lighthouse atop the fort was Salvador’s skyline.
Carnaval in Salvador
Salvador’s signature event, the Carnaval, is celebrated during February or March. The centerpiece is
the trio elétrico, a giant flatbed truck carrying a massive array of speakers, topped by a rectangular
stage. The tradition was started in the 1950s with Dodó and Osmar, two local musicians who took
their music to the street on top of a 1929 Ford. Running out from behind the trio elétrico truck, a
large roped-off area serves as a movable dance floor. Access to this area is restricted to those in an
abadá, or uniform-style tank top. Revelers outside the roped-off area are called pipoca, or popcorn,
as they pop up everywhere.
Blocos (neighborhood groups) parade along one of three routes – Pelourinho, mostly for smaller and
more traditional groups; Campo Grande, which runs through the narrow streets of downtown Salvador;
and Ondina, which goes through the beachside neighborhoods of Barra and Ondina. Performers at the
Carnaval include major Brazilian artists
such as Daniela Mercury, Caetano Veloso,
Gilberto Gil, Carlinhos Brown, and popular
groups such as Olodum, Ara Ketu, and
Chiclete com Banana. In addition to these
name-brand performers, there are Afro-
Brazilian blocos such as Ilê Aye, which
only allows people of black heritage in
their parade. The queen of the Carnaval is
Ivete Sangalo, a noted exponent of axé,
Bahia’s unique rhythm that combines
pop with samba and Afro-Brazilian beats.
The grand finale occurs in the wee
hours of Ash Wednesday. All the various
blocos make their way to Praça Castro
Alves for the Encontro dos Trios, a last
late-night jam that marks the closure
Costumed dancers at the Salvador Carnaval of the Carnaval.
Candomblé religion (see p181).

On Fridays, worshippers dress
in white and dedicate their
prayers to Oxalá. On other days,
in a small chapel just to the
right of the main altar, one
can visit the Sala dos Milagres
(Chamber of Miracles). Believers
come here to offer items made
of wax, wood, or even gold.
The item represents a miracle
that has been bestowed upon
Exquisite Portuguese azulejo (tile work) at Nosso Senhor do Bonfim them. The room is packed with
replicas of hearts, lungs, livers,
y Nosso Senhor north of Pelourinho. The church and breasts, as well as babies,
do Bonfim was built between 1746 and houses, and even cars.
1754 by Captain Rodrigues de Outside, visitors are besieged
Largo do Bonfim s/n. Tel (71) 3316 Faria in fulfilment of a pledge with offers of fitas, little colored
2196. Open 7am–6pm daily (Mon: he made in the midst of a fierce ribbons purchased as a good
from 9am; Fri & Sun: from 6am).
Atlantic storm. While the hilltop luck charm. The ribbon is meant
5 7am, 8am, 5pm Tue–Sun.
setting is picturesque, what sets to be tied around the wrist with
Nosso Senhor do Bonfim (Our the church apart is not its three knots, and a wish is made
Lord of Good Success) stands architecture but the role it plays for each knot. The ribbon is then
atop a small hill on the Bonfim in Bahia’s Afro-Brazilian religion. worn until it falls off in order for
Peninsula, a strip of land jutting The church is dedicated to God the wishes to be granted.
out into the Baía de Todos os the Father, but it also honors The impressive 16th-century
Santos about 6 miles (10 km) Oxalá, the supreme deity in the Forte de São Felipe is located
Salvador’s Atlantic Coast

The tip of Porto da Barra is the beginning of a string of
ocean beaches. The best beaches for swimming and
sunbathing are close to the southern edge of the city. The
best beach close to the city center is Porto do Barra. Farther
out, Amaralina’s acarajé (see p183) kiosks are popular on
weekends. Itapoã is known for its calm waters and reefs
that form natural pools at low tide.
Ondina’ beautiful beach is lined

Ondina’s
with many of Salvador’s biggest
and best hotels that look out over
the foamy waves.
Rio Vermelho is the starting

point of a procession
honoring Yemanjá (see p45).
Porto da Barra is the

closest swimming Historic Center
ALDI
beach to Salvador’s
RIB
historic center. The

Porto da BARRA R V
A
Barra IO
A
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A. G
AV O C E Â JUN CA
lighthouse here is a NI ES R IO
CA
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AV
great place from LH

Praia do Ondina Rio DA CIDADE
A
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A
which to watch a Farol da Barra Vermelho M
HÃ
Praia de J. JOVENTINO
ES
spectacular sunset Ondina SANTA SILVA

AV
over calm waters. Praia do CRUZ

Rio Vermelho PITUBA
Amaralina
Praia de Praia da
Amaralina Pituba
SALVADOR  199
close to the church, in the

neighborhood of Boa Viagem.
Just below the fort is the
popular beach, Praia de Boa
Viagem, which is usually
bustling with locals and lined
with busy stalls selling a
variety of trinkets and snacks
on weekends.
P Forte de São Felipe

Rua Rita Durão s/n, Monte Serrat,
Boa Viagem. Tel (71) 3313 7339. A group of colorfully dressed women during Lavagem do Bonfim
Open 8am–noon daily. &
Lavagem do Bonfim
Salvador is home to some of the largest celebrations of the
Candomblé religion. One event that occurs each year at the Nosso
Senhor do Bonfim is the Lavagem do Bonfim (Washing Ceremony),
which takes place on the third Thursday of January. A procession of
thousands of devotees makes its way from Salvador city center to
the church. Once the procession has reached the church, women in
traditional white lace dresses wash the church steps with perfumed
water in honor of Oxalá. The tradition is said to stem from the days
when the slaves were not allowed inside the church and had to
worship outside. The Catholic church does not entirely approve of
Colorful ribbons on the railing outside the ceremony, and keeps its doors shut throughout the festival.
Nosso Senhor do Bonfim
Bahia. n on the corner of Rua
João de Deus & Laranjeiras,
Pelourinho.
Tel (71) 3321 2133.
∑ bahiatursa.ba.gov.br
_ Festa de Yemanjá (Feb).
0 km 1
Transport
0 miles 1
@ Barra from Praça da Sé.
Amaralina, subject to large waves and
strong winds, is an excellent beach for
surfing and boardsailing. Baianas dressed in
traditional garb sell acarajé at the numerous
kiosks lining the shore.
I
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do Rio
AV
Jardim
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de Alá Itapuã features turquoise

Jardim de Alá, a seaside park waters and reefs teeming
with grassy slopes descending
with marine life. Poet and
Praia Jardim to the sea, has a coconut
de Alá tree plantation. lyricist Vinícius de Moraes
(see p35) immortalized the
place in a popular song.

Ilha de Itaparica, one of the tropical islands in the Baía de Todos os Santos
2 Ilha de Itaparica tobacco and, more significantly, of the Bembé do Mercado.

* 18,000. g from Salvador. ® sugar cane. Until the crash of During this time, offerings are
Zimbo Tropical, (71) 3638 1148. the sugar economy in the 19th made to Yemanjá, Goddess of
century, Santo Amaro remained the Sea, to celebrate freedom
The largest island in the Baía the focus of Recôncavo’s sugar of religion. In the main square in
de Todos os Santos (Bay of All industry. Dilapidated mansions front of the town market, local
Saints), with summerhouses of the erstwhile sugar barons groups put on capoeira perform-
lining its shore, Itaparica is a can still be seen along the old ances. Theater performances of
popular weekend refuge for streets. Nowadays, this pieces, such as Nego Fugido
the residents of Salvador. unpretentious town is known (Runaway Slave), recount the
Located on the northern tip for its paper industry. It is also story of slaves fleeing their
of the island, the main city is famous as the hometown of masters to join quilombos,
guarded by the Forte de São Caetano Veloso and Maria independent communities
Lourenço, which was built by Bethânia, two of Brazil’s most set up by runaway slaves.
the Dutch in 1711. Among the popular singers. In an effort to keep folkloric
island’s main attractions are Many of the slaves, who were traditions alive, the Afro-
some historic buildings, brought from Africa to work on Brazilian community also
including the 1622 Nossa plantations, remained in the organizes presentations of the
Senhora da Piedade (Chapel Recôncavo after slavery was lesser-known maculelê sword
of Our Lady of Piety) and the abolished in 1888. The region dance, an African fight-dance,
1610 Igreja de São Lourenço. still has a very high percentage and samba de roda dances
The island is connected to of Afro-Brazilian residents, and performed by women.
the mainland by a bridge at its Santo Amaro plays a key role
narrow southern tip. The Praia in preserving their distinct
da Penha, 10 miles (6 km) traditions. Every year, the city 4 Cachoeira
south, is a lovely beach with commemorates the abolition * 30,000. @ n Praça da
views of Salvador. The region’s of slavery with a five-day festival Aclamação 4. _ Festa da Boa Morte
biggest resort, Club Med, lies on (mid-Aug, dates vary).
the Praia da Conceição, 12 miles
(19 km) south of town. Historically more powerful than
the other two main towns in
the Recôncavo – Santo Amaro
3 Santo Amaro and São Félix – Cachoeira was
* 60,000. @ from Salvador.
also the most prominent. Its
_ Bembé do Mercado (May 13–18). strategic location, between the
Baía de Todos os Santos and
The laid-back town of Santo the roads leading inland, made
Amaro lies in the Recôncavo, it an important crossroads
the fertile zone at the top end between Salvador and the
of the Baía de Todos os Santos, rest of the state.
which has formed the The city once had a busy river
backbone of Salvador’s colonial port on the Paraguaçu. Boats
economy for almost 300 years. sailed upstream from Salvador
The region’s high humidity, to load up with sugar and
abundant rainfall, and rich soils Lush hillsides in the Recôncavo, covered tobacco produced in the
were conducive to growing with sugar cane Recôncavo region. The town’s
BAHIA  201
cigar factory, founded in

1873 by German cigar-maker
Gerhard Dannemann. Blessed
by optimum conditions for
growing and processing
tobacco, the Dannemann
factory quickly became one
of the region’s finest cigar
producers. The region still
produces Dannemann cigars,
but the original factory has
now been converted into a
Cobblestoned streets lined with colorful houses in Cachoeira cultural center, known as the
Centro Cultural Dannemann.
privileged position as a 5 São Félix A small exhibit of old
commercial center is reflected @ from Cachoeira. machinery tells the story of
in its imposing colonial the early factory days. On
architecture. However, with Regarded as the twin of weekdays, it is possible to
the creation of road access to Cachoeira, São Félix lies watch the factory workers
Salvador, Cachoeira lost its key just across the Rio Paraguaçu, rolling cigars.
position and its port gradually on a hillside overlooking the
faded away. river. The railway bridge P Centro Cultural Dannemann
In the old city center, many of connecting the two towns Av Salvador Pinto 29. Tel (75) 3438 3716.
the city’s churches and wealthy was commissioned by Dom Open 8am–noon & 1–5pm Tue–Sat.
merchants’ houses are still Pedro II, and built by British
standing, although in a engineers in 1895. Cars,
dilapidated condition. trains, and foot traffic
The city has, however, all share the rickety
begun to renovate and railway bridge.
preserve its historic Several times a day,
center. As a cultural hub São Félix comes to a
of the Recôncavo region standstill as freight trains
Cachoeira celebrates the roll right through the
Festa da Boa Morte, one town center.
of the most important Larger in size, though
features of the not as impressive as
Candomblé religion. Coronas cigar Cachoeira, São Félix used
Today, the city is as much box, São Félix to earn a living
celebrated for its robust in its own right as a
wood-sculpting tradition as producer of fine charutos
for its production of the best (cigars). The heart of this Market scene in São Félix, with a vendor
tobacco in Brazil. industry was the Dannemann selling fruit
Festa da Boa Morte

Celebrated in mid August, the Festa da Boa Morte (Festival
of the Good Death) is one of the most important events
of Candomblé (see p39), a blend of African spirituality and
Catholicism. The ceremonies are held by members of the
Sisterhood of the Good Death, a religious and self-help
organization composed entirely of women of African descent.
The festival honors both the iyás (female spirits of the dead) and
the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. A Catholic mass is followed
by a large procession through the historic streets of Cachoeira.
The women come dressed in multilayered lace skirts and
blouses, white turbans, and traditional accessories in honor
of various orixás (deities). At the head of the procession,
they carry a statue of the Virgin Mary. At the end, the women
prepare an all-white meal of rice, fish, potatoes, onions, and
other white-colored foods. Samba de roda, a dance based
on the African circle dances, marks the end of the ceremonies.
Members of the Sisterhood of the Good Death Women take turns dancing in the circle to the pounding
in festive regalia rhythm of the drums. Onlookers may also be called on to dance.
7 Peninsula de
Maraú
g from Itacaré or Camamu to Barra
Grande. n Barra Grande, (75) 3258
9051. ∑ barragrande.net
The main destination at the
northern tip of the Peninsula
de Maraú is Barra Grande,
a delightful, remote fishing
village. Beautiful beaches are
scattered along the entire
length of the peninsula, but
it is difficult to get around
without a car. Four-wheel
The ruins of Fortaleza do Tapirando in Morro de São Paulo drives ferry passengers from
pousadas to various beaches
6 Morro de São season, there are parties every around the peninsula.
Paulo night and the beaches are Alternatively, the 31-mile
packed. Most nights start (50-km) walk across various
* 50,000. ~ from Salvador. g from around midnight, when palm-fringed beaches along
Salvador. n (75) 3652 1104. Primeira beach fills with locals the coastline is spectacular.
∑ morrodesaopaulo.com.br
and visitors, who dance axé and Most of the peninsula is
Although within easy reach of drink fruity cocktails. As you covered in native Mata Atlântica
Salvador, the coast immediately move away from the village, rainforest, which has been
south of the state capital does the beaches get wider and relatively well preserved. The
not have many large, developed less developed. Segunda Baía de Camamu, one of Brazil’s
tourist areas, apart from and Terceira beaches feature largest bays, separates the
Morro de São Paulo. Now a progressively more scattered peninsula from the mainland.
picturesque beach destination, pousadas. From Quarta beach The long dirt road heading
Morro de São Paulo, on the onwards, the coast remains down the peninsula (often
northern tip of Ilha da Tinharé, blissfully unspoilt, offering impassable after rains) leads to
once played a key role in the long stretches of white sand some of the best beaches facing
coastal defences of Bahia. In backed by waving groves the open ocean. Praia Taipús
1630, Governor General Diego of coconut palms. de Fora, 4 miles (7 km) south
Luiz de Oliveira ordered of Barra Grande, is considered
Fortaleza do Tapirando to be Environs one of Brazil’s most beautiful
strategically built here where Just south of Morro, Ilha de beaches. At low tide, the
it could control the Itaparica Boipeba offers a quiet, idyllic coral reefs form a clear, natural
channel, one of the main island getaway, with pristine, pool, perfect for snorkeling
approaches to Salvador. The deserted beaches. Ponta de and swimming.
ruins of the fort have been Castelhanos is especially There are also a handful of
designated a National Heritage known for diving. Travelers small fishing villages scattered
Site. The view of the sunset from can get here via boat from along the coast. Local fisher-
the fort’s crumbling walls is Morro de São Paulo. Visitors men offer excursions to Lagoa
spectacular, and dolphin coming from Salvador can drive Azul (Blue Lagoon), scenic view
sightings are quite common. to Valença, then take a boat points, bay islands, and down
Still accessible only by boat (see www.ilhaboipeba.org.br). the Rio Maraú.
or plane, Morro maintains
much of its original charm.
No cars are allowed in the
village. Lined with pousadas,
boutiques, and restaurants, the
“streets” are made of sand, and
wheelbarrows and bicycles
are the primary means of
transportation. In the evenings,
the village square transforms
into a craft market, the small
stands often lit only by
candlelight, making for a very
cozy atmosphere. Morro’s
beaches are famous in Brazil
for their parties. During high Peninsula de Maraú, overlooking the Baía de Camamu
BAHIA  203
Capoeira
Bahia, the birthplace of capoeira, offers visitors plenty of opportunities to see this
dazzling and mesmerizing mixture of dance, gymnastics, and martial arts. Capoeira was
developed by African slaves within Brazil as a form of self-defense against their brutal
slave masters. The music was added as a disguise. Many slaves successfully escaped and
formed communities in the interior called quilombos (see p219). Outlawed in 1890 and
forced underground, the sport made a slow comeback over the next few decades as
white Brazilians began to accept and celebrate the African aspects of Brazil’s culture.
Capoeira was fully rehabilitated in the 1930s, when President Vargas, calling it “the only
true Brazilian sport,” invited one of the most renowned capoeiristas of the day, Mestre
Bimba, to perform in the presidential palace. Today, Mestre Bimba’s school in Pelourinho
is run by his son, Mestre Nenel.
Berimbau, a single-string instrument that produces African drums are the additional
a metallic droning sound, sets the capoeira beat. instruments used in capoeira.
The roda, or the circle in which capoeria is always performed, is created by participants who sit or
stand and clap to the beat of a single-stringed berimbau. The people who form the roda will take turns,
usually with no predefined order, to go inside the circle and participate.
Capoeira Moves
Capoeiristas exhibit incredible muscle control, strength, and
flexibility as they carry out acrobatic moves, while keeping their
opponent at bay. The capoeira moves are carried out at lightning
speed, but with a dance-like fluidity, where each move is a
combination of skill, balance, and beauty.
Escorpião, or the scorpion Au malandro starts like a The esquiva (escape), a low
move, is a combination of back cartwheel, but only one hand ducking move, is a very
flips and cartwheels. Both goes down while the opposite common one since
participants try to create a leg kicks up in the air in a swift, capoeiristas primarily attack
beautiful performance. fluid move. with kicks and sweeps.
books, Gabriela, Clove and

Cinnamon, takes place in the
city’s historic core at the height
of the 1920s cocoa boom.
Today, visitors can stroll along
the promenades and see the
famous Bar Vesúvio and Bataclã
Cabaret that feature in his
novel. The author’s childhood
home has been opened to
visitors as the Casa de Cultura
Jorge Amado.
Among the city’s other sights
The beautiful and unspoiled Prainha beach in Itacaré is the 16th-century Igreja de
São Jorge. There are several fine
8 Itacaré follows the coastline and allows beaches to the north and south
* 24,000. ~ Ilhéus. @ n Rua access to a string of beautiful, of town and Cururupe, near the
João de Souza, Centro, (73) 3251 3922. secluded beaches, many of village of Olivença, is a favorite.
∑ itacare.com which have little or no facilities.
E Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado
The small fishing town of Itacaré Rua Jorge Amado 21. Tel (73) 3231
is part of Brazil’s famous 9 Ilhéus 7531. Open 9am–noon, 2–6pm Mon–
Discovery Coast. Portuguese Fri, 9am–1pm Sat. &
* 220,000. ~ @ n Setur, (73)
explorer Pedro Álvares Cabral 3634 6008. ∑ brasilheus.com.br E Igreja de São Jorge
(see p52), who was the first Praça Rui Barbosa. Open irregular hrs.
European to officially “discover” When farmers began growing
Brazil, landed in Porto Seguro, cocoa trees imported from the
close to Itacaré, in 1500. upper Amazon basin in the
Large areas of protected early 20th century, Ilhéus, the
Atlantic rainforest, which were largest city on Bahia’s southern
given World Heritage status by coast, established itself as a
UNESCO in 1999, meet the sea major cocoa-growing region.
along the coast of Itacaré. A disaster of epic proportions
Relatively isolated, the town is struck in 1989, when a parasite
favored by nature lovers. Itacaré infected most of the plantations
is also known for its relaxed and destroyed the entire crop.
lifestyle and typical Afro- The industry has yet to recover,
Brazilian culture. but several of the old planta-
The beaches have enormous tions have been converted
waves, making it a popular into museums.
surfing destination. Most are Ilhéus is best known as the
surrounded by lush forest and setting for several novels by
can only be accessed on foot. Bahia’s most beloved author, Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado, childhood
Prainha, Itacaré’s main attraction, Jorge Amado. One of his best home of the famed author
is considered to be one of Brazil’s
most beautiful beaches, and is
accessible only by a trail through Jorge Amado (1912–2001)
the rainforest from Ribeira beach, The son of a cocoa plantation owner, Jorge Amado was
just south of town. born near Ilhéus in 1912. In 1931, Amado moved to Rio to
study law, but his heart was already given
Environs to literature. That very year, he published
Known as the Estrada Parque his first novel, O País do Carnaval. He based
(the Park Drive), the road that his 1958 novel, Gabriela, Clove and
connects Itacaré to Ilhéus Cinnamon, on the warring cocoa barons
traverses a well-preserved of his native Ilhéus, but infused it with a
strand of Atlantic rainforest. sense of humor that won him acclaim in
Care has been taken not to Brazil and around the world. Dona Flor and
disrupt the ecosystem and to her Two Husbands (1966), Tieta do Agreste
protect animals crossing the (1977), and Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon
highway. In places, nets have were later turned into popular and
been strung from tree to tree successful films. Armado published 21
to provide safe passage for Life-like statue of Jorge novels, which were translated into 49
monkeys crossing the road. Amado, Ilhéus languages. He died in 2001.
The 49-mile (80-km) drive
BAHIA  205
w Parque Nacional
Marinho de
Abrolhos
g n Ibama, Praia do Kitongo,
Caravelas, (73) 3297 1111.
∑ abrolhos.net
Remote and uninhabited,

the archipelago of Abrolhos,
discovered by Amerigo
Vespucci in 1503, offers
excellent opportunities for
viewing wildlife. The five islands
are located off the coast of
Main square and the Matriz Nossa Senhora da Pena, Porto Seguro southern Bahia. In 1983, the
islands, together with 351 sq
0 Porto Seguro as distances are long and the miles (909 sq km) of
* 140,000. ~ @ n Av Portugal,
coastal highways are in a state surrounding ocean, were
Passarela do Alcool, Centro, (73) 3288 of disrepair. declared a National Marine Park,
3708. ∑ portosegurotur.com the first such park in Brazil.
E Museu de Porto Seguro Known for its rare formations of
Porto Seguro (Safe Port) is Praça Pero Campos Tourinho s/n. south Atlantic coral, the park
officially recognized as the site Tel (73) 3288 5182. teems with sea turtles, squid,
of the first Portuguese landing Open 9am–5pm daily. and a rich assortment of fish. A
in 1500, where Pedro Cabral variety of bird species come to
and his fleet arrived and said feed and lay eggs on the islands,
mass on Brazilian soil. The city’s q Trancoso which are otherwise dry and
small historic center (Cidade ~ Porto Seguro, then bus. @
covered in grasslands. The best
Histórica) has several stately ∑ trancosobahia.com.br time for spotting humpback
old buildings, including the whales is between July and
Matriz Nossa Senhora da Though just a short drive from November, when the
Pena, built in 1535. Its altar Porto Seguro, Trancoso has a archipelago becomes a
has an image of Saint Francis sense of tranquility that sets it calving ground for them.
of Assisi, the first religious apart from the nearby party Only one of the five islands,
statue to be brought to Brazil town. Set on a high bluff over Siriba, can actually be visited.
in 1503. On the same square, looking the ocean, the town Guided tours to the marine park
the former jail built in 1772 is center, or quadrado, is a long, should only be made with an
home to the Museu de Porto grassy space, anchored by a operator accredited by Brazil’s
Seguro, which holds a small church and framed by environmental agency, IBAMA.
collection describing the early houses, many of which have Visitors can also book a day or
colonization of the region. turned their gardens into taste overnight excursion to the
Today, Porto Seguro is best ful little cafés. Trancoso offers islands and surrounding coral
known for its buzzing nightlife, sophisticated services focusing reefs from the town of
beach parties, music festivals, on highend travelers – upscale Caravelas on the mainland.
and the notorious “Passarela do B&Bs, fine dining, and music. For snorkeling and diving
Alcool” (alcohol boardwalk), the The beaches are backed by red enthusiasts, underwater
nickname for the city’s main sandstone cliffs, and remain visibility is best between
street where vendors set up largely secluded and unspoiled. January and March.
kiosks selling fresh fruit cocktails
with a heavy alcoholic kick.
Visitors looking for a more
tranquil holiday experience
usually head farther south to
the lovely neighboring villages
of Arraial d’Ajuda and Trancoso.
South of town are a few
beaches that mainly attract
backpackers. Less developed,
but serene, these beaches can
be accessed from Porto Seguro
airport, which receives daily
flights from all over Brazil. Road
access can often be challenging, Birds nesting on Siriba island, Parque Nacional Marinho de Abrolhos
Vacationers and locals relaxing at Praia do Forte, Bahia
rParque Nacional de
Chapada Diamantina
Towering red rock formations, Rio Santo António
interspersed with lush vegetation,
Morro do Pai Inácio Salvador
characterize this 587-sq-mile 3,675 ft (1,120 m)
inho
(1,520-sq-km) park in the c ugêz
Mu
Rio
hinterland of Salvador, estab-
lished in 1985. Numerous small Gruta do
Lapão
rivers crisscross the highlands,
Rio
cascading over waterfalls, Len
çói
s
carving through canyons, and Lençóis
Ri
tumbling down waterslides.
o
São
Countless trails lead to caves and Cachoeira
Jos
A view of the old diamond-mining town da Fumaça
caverns. These undefined paths
é
of Lençóis
are best navigated with a guide. Caeté- iva
ra
Cap
e Lençóis Açú Rio
ão
ir
* 9,000. ~ 16 miles (25 km) E of al de
Rio C
town. @ n Sectur, (75) 3334 1380. or
ad
_ Festa de Senhor dos Passos (Jan), nc
SE Rio Ro ra
pa
Festa de São João (Jun). RR
Ga
A
Rio
∑ guialencois.com D A Vale do
G A Paty
Located in the foothills of RA
PA
the Chapada Diamantina
mountains in central Bahia, the
town of Lençóis sprang up
Rio
almost overnight, as diamond Pr
eto
fever struck in these interior
highlands in the late 19th . Morro do Pai Inácio
century. The name of the town, The striking mesa is the park’s signature
Rio
meaning “sheets,” derives from mountain formation. The 3,675-ft (1,120-m)

Ca
pã
the camp that grew up here plateau offers breathtaking views of the
zin
during the diamond strike. The northern half of the park.

ho
miners, too poor to afford tents,

made do with sheets draped
over branches. Cachoeira da Fumaça, or the Waterfall of
Unlike many other mining Smoke, wears a veil of mist as the water
boomtowns, however, Lençóis plunges down the 1,150-ft (340-m) precipice.
has a colonial air, with small
Baroque churches, and tiny
houses and shops painted in
pastel colors. The town’s distin-
guished main square, Praça
Horácio de Matos, consists of
19th-century houses, character-
ized by high, arched windows.
Another town landmark, Praça
Otaviano Alves, lined with
gracious colonial homes, is
farther south of the main square.
Lençóis has reinvented itself
as the base camp for eco-
tourists venturing out to
explore the caves, waterfalls,
and isolated mountaintops of . Vale do Paty
the surrounding highlands. The The multiday hike up this scenic valley offers extraordinary views
town’s pretty colonial homes of the highlands from Morro do Castelo. Other attractions include
now house trekking equipment abandoned miners’ settlements and waterfalls with natural
stores, cafés, and tasteful swimming pools at Cachoeira dos Funis, as well as the sound
photo galleries. of Barbado monkeys that inhabit this vast wilderness.
BAHIA  209
Bahia. n Fundação Chapada
Diamantina, Rua Pe de Ladeira
212, (75) 3334 1305. 8 Nas
Alturas, (75) 3334 1054.
∑ nasalturas.net; Chapada
Adventure, (75) 3334 1054.
∑ chapadaadventure.com
 in Chapada Diamantina (free,
no permit required for camping
and sleeping in the park’s caves;
Rappeling in the Chapada Diamantina a local guide is recommended).
The Chapada’s main adventure sport is rappeling down a cliff face
or into a cavern. Tour companies in Lençóis offer thrilling rappeling Transport
alongside amazing waterfalls. ~@
Poço Encantado
Remanso At the bottom of a deep cavern, the
cobalt-blue Enchanted Pool is
accessible by a steep trail. Between
April and September, sunlight
Rio Santo streaming through an aperture
makes the pool and cavern glow.
An
tó
io
n
Andaraí
Xique-Xique
Igatu
0 km 25
Rio Parag
0 miles 15
Poço
uaçu
Encantado
Mucugé
SE Rio
Mu
RR cug
A é
D
O
SI
N
C
O
R
A
Ri
Pa
o
rag
ua
çu
Cachoeira do
Buração . Cachoeira do Buracão
Key
Near the park’s southern edge,
Major road this waterfall plunges 394 ft (120 m)
Minor road into a vast pool. The river then carves
Trail
its way through a deep gorge
of sedimentary rock. Strong
Park boundary swimmers can swim downstream
Peak towards the trailhead.
Church and colorful houses in the small town of Canudos
t Canudos site of the 19th-century thorn-covered shrub very

* 59,000. @ Canudos War into a state park, common in the dry interior in
Parque Estadual de Canudos. Bahia. After the April rains, the
Traveling through the sleepy To access the park, visitors landscape briefly turns lush and
town of Canudos, it is hard to should get permission from the animals such as deer, hyacinth
imagine that this was once the Memorial de Canudos. macaws, and armadillos can
staging ground for a year-long The original settlement of be spotted frequently.
rebellion in 1897. Led by Canudos now lies at the bottom In the Canudos region during
Antônio Conselheiro, the war of the Lagoa Cocorobó, which the war, Republican soldiers
wound up costing the lives of flooded the area in 1970. were camped in the hills that
more than 20,000 people and However, many of the original were covered by favela trees.
almost destroyed the future of battlefields escaped the deluge Upon their return to Rio, the
the Brazilian Republic. and have been made into an soldiers never received the land
An eyewitness account at the open-air museum which is part which they had been promised.
end of the Canudos War was of the park, just on the outskirts They ended up squatting on the
written by journalist Euclides da of the town. The principal hills, naming their new-found
Cunha, who was on the scene museum sites include Morro do community favela after the trees
to cover the events for a São Conselheiro (Counsellor Hill), in the sertão. Hence the name
Paulo newspaper. He went on Vale da Morte (Valley of Death), favela (see p89), now used to
to write a book based on his the Estrada Sagrada (Holy Road), refer to the urban ghettos, traces
coverage of the war. Published and the Vale da Degola (Valley its origins to the Canudos War.
in 1902, Os Sertões (Rebellion in of Beheadings). The dry sertão
the Backlands) is one of the landscape is quite striking – Y Parque Estadual de
most important works of vegetation consists of caatinga Canudos
Brazilian literature. In 1997, the bushes, cacti, bromeliads, Tel (75) 3494 2000. & 8 tours
University of Bahia turned the umbu trees, and favelas, a small arranged by Memorial de Canudos.
Antônio Conselheiro
Part Robin Hood, part religious fanatic, Antônio Conselheiro,
the leader of Brazil’s 1897 Canudos War, was born Antônio
Vicente Mendes Maciel in 1830 in Ceará. Conselheiro traveled
the dry sertão for decades, first as a salesman and legal
conselheiro (counselor), then as a preacher and reformer,
raging against the plight of the peasants. In 1893, Conselheiro,
outraged at the newly imposed taxes on an already starving
population, settled in the tiny upland town of Canudos and
began creating what was, in effect, an independent state.
Conselheiro began implementing an early form of socialism,
heavily tinged with religious values. The poor of the region
flocked to Conselheiro and Canudos quickly grew to a
community of more than 8,000 people. With the prestige of
the new Republican government at stake, the army sent three
large forces against Canudos. All were destroyed. Finally, in
November of 1897, the army mounted a full-scale invasion.
Conselheiro died during the battle and all the residents of
Statue of Antônio Conselheiro Canudos were slaughtered.
BAHIA  211
y Linha Verde VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The Linha Verde (Green Line) is the 152-mile (252-km) Practical Information
stretch of coast that runs north from Salvador all the way Bahia. 8 Odara, Av ACM s/n, Praia
do Forte. Tel (71) 3676 1080.
to Mangue Seco on the Sergipe border. It is often referred ∑ praiadoforte.org.br
to as the Estrada do Côco, or Coconut Highway, because ∑ odaratours.com.br;
of the thick stands of palm trees that line the beaches. Centrotour, Av ACM s/n, Praia do
This part of the coast offers several popular holiday Forte. Tel (71) 3676 1091.
Projeto Tamar: Av ACM s/n, Praia
destinations and well-developed resorts. The most favored do Forte. Tel (71) 3676 1045.
destinations are Praia do Forte and Costa do Sauípe. Open 9am–6pm daily. 8 &
Farther north, the beaches are pristine and beautiful. ∑ tamar.org.br
Transport
SERGIPE @ from Salvador.
Mangue
Seco
Praia Sítio do Praia do Coquiro
Conde, a popular Praia Costa Azul
beach, is visited by
Praia Barra
locals on week do Itapicuru
ends. Small reefs Barra do Itapicuru
form natural pools
at low tide.
99 Praia de Poças
Sítio do Conde
Conde Praia
Sítio do
233
Conde Barra do Itariri
ES
TR
In a lovely setting with green

AD
palm trees, white sand dunes,

A
Barra do and mangroves, Barra do Itariri is

DO
Itariri an ideal beach destination.

BAHIA
CÔC
Praia Baixio
O
Sapiranga Reserve Cardeal

This ecopreserve da Silva 400 Baixio
protects some of the 99
Costa do Sauípe
last remaining Atlantic Subaúma The custombuilt
rainforest in Brazil.
Praia village at Costa do
Massarandupió Sauípe offers high
93
0 km 15 Porto do end recreation
Sauípe including spas,
0 miles 15 Costa do
Sauípe sailing, and golf.
Itanagra
Key
Main Road Açu da Imbassaí
Torre
Minor Road
505
Praia do Forte
Itacimirim
Guarajuba
Pajuca
Praia da Barra
do Jacúpe
Mata da
São João Arembepe
93
Praia do
Dias Arembepe
d’Avila
Camaçari 522
Praia do Forte
Projeto Tamar Natural pools at the north
99
As part of a conservation plan, Lauro de end of Praia do Forte
five turtle species are reared at Freitas provide snorkeling and
324
Praia do Forte. swimming areas.
SALVADOR

BRAZIL AReA By AReA  213
Sergipe, AlAgoAS &

pernAmbuco
Long stretches of white beach bathed by a warm, blue-green
ocean comprise the magnificent coastline of Sergipe, Alagoas, and
Pernambuco. In contrast, much of the interior of this region is dry
sertão, where the landscape is barren and harsh. Despite, or perhaps
because of their material poverty, these northeastern states are
culturally rich in music and folklore.
The states of Sergipe, Alagoas, and and a penchant for lively festivals. Popular
Pernambuco in the Northeast were musical styles such as forró and frevo
among the first parts of Brazil to be began or culminated in the Northeast.
colonized by Portugal, and for centuries All three states have pretty, historic
afterward they were the richest region towns, stunning coastlines, and picture-
of colonial Brazil. The wealth of the region perfect beaches. Reefs of stone and coral
came from sugar. With slave labor, sugar provide natural habitats for fish, sea turtles,
cane could be cultivated in abundance, sharks, and other tropical marine life.
and sugar sold in the burgeoning markets The island archipelago of Fernando de
of Europe. In 1654, the Portuguese Noronha, a municipality of Pernambuco,
reclaimed Pernambuco after a brief Dutch is one of Brazil’s prime marine habitats and
takeover, but opted to keep the new city, a preferred destination of scuba divers.
Recife, as the capital instead of Olinda. The Rio São Francisco, the longest river
Sugar still dominates the economy, but in Brazil, passes through the beautiful
the beaches make this region one of scenery of Sergipe and Alagoas in the last
Brazil’s hottest tourist destinations. These leg of its journey before finally meeting
states have also developed a rich culture the Atlantic Ocean.
Dois Irmãos (Mount of the Two Brothers), Parque Nacional Marinho de Fernando de Noronha
View from Igreja de São Salvador do Mundo over the rooftops of Olinda
Exploring Sergipe,
Alagoas & Pernambuco
Year-round warm weather makes this region a
popular sunshine destination. The island archipelago
of Fernando de Noronha in Pernambuco is Brazil’s
top scuba-diving destination, and it also offers a
fascinating ecosystem rich in marine life. Recife and
Olinda provide a captivating impression of 17th- and
18th-century Brazil, a legacy of Dutch and Portuguese
colonization. São Cristóvão and Penedo, located on
the border between the two states, are both
charming Baroque colonial towns. Penedo has the
added advantage of offering a spectacular view of
the Rio São Francisco. Rio São Francisco, the largest river in Northeast Brazil
Teresina
Serrolândia Exu
Juazeiro
Ri
Araripina Moreilândia do Norte

o
da
Br
Trindade ú
Bodocó Paje
ígi
Flores
da
Ouricurí Serrita
Mirandiba Serra
Santa Filomena Parnamirim Talhada
ito
Salgueiro
S ão
qu
Santa Cruz
PERNAMBUCO rí
Pedr
Dormentes Pe
Cabrobó
da
o
Ibimirim
Afrânio Floresta
Lagoa a
Orocó rr
Se
Pont
al Santa Maria São
da Boa Vista Fra Represa Inajá
nci de Itaparica
Rajada sc o
to
xo Mata
Mo
Grande
Petrolina
CANION XINGÓ
Piranhas
Pão de Açúcar
Sights at a Glance Juazeiro
Towns & Cities

Carira
1 Aracaju
2 São Cristóvão
3 Penedo
Simão Dias
6 Marechal Deodoro
7 Maceió Lagarto
9 Recife pp220–23 Salgado
0 Olinda pp224–6
Estância
w Caruaru Itabaianinha
Beaches, Islands & Areas Mangue Seco

of Natural Beauty
Salvador
4 Rio São Francisco
5 Cânion Xingó
8 Porto de Galinhas
q Ilha de Itamaracá
Stunning blue sky and pastel-colored colonial houses in the e Fernando de Noronha
picturesque town of Olinda pp228–9
SERGIPE, ALAGOAS & PERNAMBUCO  215
Getting Around
Fortaleza FERNANDO DE
Recife, Aracaju, Maceió, and Fernando de NORONHA
Noronha have good flight connections to
the rest of Brazil. However, only Recife has
an international airport. Cities on the coast Mossoró
are easily accessible by bus or car. Bus Natal
connections are fast and convenient
throughout the region. Highway BR-101 Campina
connects Aracaju, Maceió, and Recife, while Grande João Pessoa
smaller coastal destinations are only a short 0 km 200
drive east on secondary roads off the main Caruaru Recife
0 miles 100
highway. However, roads in the interior
require a bit more patience as they are often
in poor condition, making night driving
hazardous. Gas stations and services become
scarce in the sparsely populated interior;
drivers should be prepared with a full tank
of gas, snacks, and plenty of water.
João Pessoa
São José
do Egito Timbaúba Goiana
ILHA DE ITAMARACÁ
Carpina Paulista
Limoeiro
Campina
Grande Sta. Cruz do OLINDA
Capibaribe Vitória de
Sertânia Sto. Antão RECIFE
Nova Jerusalém
Pesqueira
Jaboatão
CARUARU Escada Cabo de Santo Agostinho
Arcoverde
PORTO DE GALINHAS
Palmares
a
Lajedo Rio Formoso

m
ne
Quipapá Key
Ipa
Una
Barreiros
Garanhuns Highway
Porto Cavlo
Maragogi Major road
Águas Belas
União dos Saõ Luis Minor road
Palmares do Quitunde
Railroad
Palmeira dos Rio Largo
Índios State border
Atalaia
A LArapiraca
AGOAS MACEIÓ
MARECHAL
DEODORO
Traipu RIO SÃO
FRANCISCO
Coruripe
Propriá
PENEDO
S E R G I P E Piassabussu
Maruim
Laranjeiras
ARACAJU
SÃO CRISTÓVÃO
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Sailboats near Fernando de Noronha with Morro do Pico at a distance

2 São Cristóvão
Sergipe. * 73,000. @ from Aracaju.
n Centro de Turismo, (79) 3214 8848.
_ Festival de Arte de São Cristóvão
(Oct). ∑ recifecvb.com.br/
pernambuco
A designated National Historic

Heritage Site, São Cristóvão
was founded in 1590, and is
considered one of the oldest
cities in Brazil. It served as the
capital of Sergipe in the 17th
and 18th centuries, but when
the capital shifted to Aracaju
The wide boulevards of Sergipe’s capital, Aracaju it soon dwindled to the sleepy
interior town it is today.
1 Aracaju attractions is the Museu da The town’s charming historic
Sergipe. * 570,000. ~ n Centro
Gente Sergipana, a stateof of
of center is a panoply of colonial
de Turismo, (79) 3179 1932. _ Festa theart museum exploring the squares and buildings, and is
de São João (Jan), Forró Caju Music history, culture, and traditions also a hub of commerce. The
Festival (Jun), Festa de Yemanjá (Dec). of the Sergipe region with inter most beautifully preserved
∑ aracaju.se.gov.br active exhibits. square, Praça de São Francisco,
is easily identified by the large
Sergipe’s original capital was São E Museu da Gente Sergipana Franciscan cross at its center.
Cristóvão, located inland from Av Ivo do Prado 398. Tel (79) 3218 Flanking the square are the Santa
the Atlantic Ocean. A burgeon 1551. Open Tue–Sun. & Casa Hospital, the former Gover
ing trade in sugar, however,  Oceanário nor’s Palace, and the Convento de
made a sizable port necessary, Av Santos Dumont. Tel (79) 3214 3243. São Francisco, which now houses
and in 1855, the capital trans Open 9am–9pm daily. & the Museu de Arte Sacra
ferred to Aracaju, situated at the (Museum of Sacred Art). The
mouth of the Rio Sergipe. By Environs museum has a fine collection of
1901, the sleepy fishing village Aracaju’s lively beach neighbor silver chalices and crosses, and a
soon transformed into a stately hoods lie 6 to 12 miles (10 to few beautifully sculpted statues
capital, with a horsedrawn 20 km) south of the city center. of saints. The ceiling of the
streetcar and a movie theater. The most popular suburban convent chapel was painted by
Today, Aracaju is a small city beach is Atalaia, with its sports the Bahian artist, José Teófilo de
with a commercial downtown and recreation facilities, stages Jesus (1758–1847). In October,
area along the south riverbank. for cultural events, and good the annual Festival de Arte de
Sealife enthusiasts should visit seafood joints. The other favorite São Cristóvão hosts popular
Oceanário, which has models of is Praia Atalaia Nova, on the art and music.
various marine habitats. The Ilha de Santa Luzia, an island
main highlights here include just off the coast, accessible by E Museu de Arte Sacra
the sea turtles and the shark boat from the ferry station in Praça de São Francisco. Tel (79) 3261
tank. Another of the city’s top the city center. 1385. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
Franciscan cross in front of Convento de São Francisco in São Cristóvão

Streets and historic buildings by the Penedo waterfront
3 Penedo Environs irrigation lifeline for the people

Alagoas. * 60,000. @ from Maceió.
The Rio São Francisco Delta is in the small towns of the arid
n Teatro 7 de Setembro, Centro easily accessed from the town of northeastern interior to the
Historico, (82) 3551 2727. _ Bom Piaçabuçu, 9 miles (15 km) east bigger cities along the coast.
Jesus dos Navegantes (2nd Sun in of Penedo. The delta, situated on Considered a symbol of
Jan). ∑ turismoalagoas.com the Sergipe side of the river, is national unity, Brazilians revere
rich in lagoons and mangrove the São Francisco, and it is the
The oldest settlement in forests, and is home to turtles subject of many myths and
Alagoas, Penedo was founded and migrating seabirds. The fables. Nicknamed Velho Chico
in 1565 by Duarte Coelho riverbank in Alagoas features (Old Chico), the 1,963-mile
Pereira on a strategic bluff low-rolling sand dunes. (3,160-km) river meanders
overlooking the Rio São through five states. Originating
Francisco, about 19 miles in the Serra da Canastra
(30 km) upstream of the delta. 4 Rio São Francisco mountains in Minas Gerais,
Invading Dutch forces Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco &
it flows north through Bahia,
conquered the town in 1637, Minas Gerais. and crosses briefly into
and after eight years, the Pernambuco before continuing
Portuguese managed to regain The largest and most important east, toward the Atlantic,
control. Today, Penedo’s historic river in the region, the Rio São marking the border between
center has been designated a Francisco has long served as Sergipe and Alagoas in its final
National Historic Monument. the main transport and run to the sea.
Particularly noteworthy is the
complex housing the Convento
de São Francisco and Igreja de Lampião & Maria Bonita
Santa Maria dos Anjos, built In the 1920s and 1930s, bandit leader Lampião and his
over a period of 100 years. wife Maria Bonita led a band of 40 outlaws, nicknamed
The Igreja Nossa Senhora da cangaceiros (cangaço means badlands), on a 15-year
Corrente (Church of Our Lady spree of robberies, hold-ups, rapes, and
of Chains), built in 1765 by the shoot-outs across the Northeast. As
Lemos de Gonzaga family, was their raids continued, Lampião and
used as a refuge for runaway Maria Bonita became notorious figures
slaves, who the family often throughout Brazil.
provided with forged certifi- The duo even introduced their own
cates of freedom. It has a fine style of clothing, with the round leather
Rococo-style main altar. cangaceiro hat, the front brim turned
upward and decorated with stars or
R Convento de São Francisco & coins. The police and militia searched
Igreja de Santa Maria dos Anjos for them endlessly but were unable to
Rua 7 de Setembro 218. Open capture them. Finally, in 1938, Lampião,
8–11:30am, 2–5pm Tue–Fri, Maria Bonita, and nine cangaceiros were
8am–11pm Sat & Sun. ambushed and killed by the police in
R Igreja Nossa Senhora da Sergipe. Their story has inspired
Corrente numerous songs, plays, and different Lampião and Maria Bonita
Praça 12 de Abril. Open 8am–4pm versions on film and TV. clay statues
Tue–Sun. 8
5 Cânion Xingó The authorities are working

Sergipe. @ from Aracaju.
toward removing the
n Reservatório de Xingó, (79) 9972 restaurants that have been
1320. 8 trips to the dam at 11:30am built right on the sand.
Tue–Sun, call (79) 3346 1184 for
further departure details. & R Convento do São Francisco
Praça Pedro Paulinho. Tel (82) 3551
Standing on the Rio São 2279. Open 8–11:30am, 2–5pm Mon–
Francisco, the Xingó Dam in Fri, 8–11am Sat & Sun.
Sergipe is one of the largest in R Igreja de Santa Maria
Brazil. When it was completed Madalena
in 1994, the dam blocked off the Praça João 23. Tel (82) 3263 1623.
São Francisco canyon at a point Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sun.
about 155 miles (250 km) from
the ocean, causing the river to Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena in Marechal
rise and create the Xingó Deodoro’s historic center 7 Maceió
Reservoir. This artificial lake is
Alagoas. * 930,000. ~ @ (82) 221
now a popular destination. 6 Marechal
4615. n Rua Boa Vista 453, Centro,
Catamarans and schooners Deodoro (82) 3315 5700. _ Maceió Fest (Nov).
depart from the dam and travel ∑ maceioconvention.com.br
upstream, crossing the reservoir Alagoas. * 30,000. @ from Maceió.
n (82) 8856 9091
and re-entering the main part The capital of Alagoas, Maceió is
of the river. Several rock known for its many beautiful
passageways that previously lay The capital of Alagoas until 1839, urban beaches. The best known,
at the top of the canyon are now Marechal Deodoro was founded from north to south, are Jatiúca,
open to exploration by boat. in 1611 as Vila Madalena. The city Ponta Verde, Sete Coqueiros,
Situated 2 miles (3 km) from was renamed in honor of its and Pajuçara. Protected by
the dam, the Museu de native son, Marshall Manuel reefs, the beaches have little or
Arqueológia de Xingó displays Deodoro da Fonseca (1827–92), no surf, warm water, and a
numerous archaeological elected as Brazil’s first president Caribbean turquoise-green
objects from nearby sites that in 1891. Fonseca’s childhood color. The shores are lined with
were flooded when the dam home is now a small museum, thick groves of coconut palms,
was created. Artifacts from displaying much of the original especially dense at Ponta Verde.
the earliest sites, dating from furniture and family memorabilia. About 1 mile (2 km) offshore
around 5000 BC, include The city’s small, 18th-century from Pajuçara, a series of large
arrows, rock paintings, primitive colonial center features the coral reefs are partially exposed
stone mortars, and fish- Rococo Igreja de Santa Maria at low tide, forming sizable
cleaning tools. Later sites reveal Madalena. Adjoining the natural pools that can be
a variety of items including church, the Convento do São explored with a mask and
bone jewelry, decorative Francisco houses a museum. snorkel. Small single-sail rafts
ceramics, and clay containers. Just a 15-minute bus ride known as jangadas depart daily
from the city is the Praia do at low tide from Ponta Verde
E Museu de Arqueológia Francês, with powdery sand and take about 20 minutes to
de Xingó and deep-blue water. It has reach the pools.
2 miles (3 km) from Xingó dam enormous waves for surfing at In addition to the beaches,
at Rodoviaria Canindé-Piranhas. one end, while the other end Maceió has a small historic
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 is protected by a large reef. core. The neighborhoods of
Jaraguá and Centro, just inland
from the port, have a large
number of well-preserved
historic buildings which convey
some of the atmosphere of the
city’s 19th-century sugar boom.
One of the loveliest mansions
on the waterfront has been
beautifully restored and
now houses the Museu
Théo Brandão. Named after
a local writer who wrote
about Alagoan folk art and
anthropology, the small
museum has a good collection
of native art. It also has some
View of Praia de Francês, one of the popular beaches of Marechal Deodoro wonderfully creative displays
8 Porto de Galinhas
Pernambuco. * 10,000. k Recife
Guararapes International Airport, 38
miles (60 km) N of town, then bus. n
(81) 3552 1728.
Porto de Galinhas is one

of the most popular tourist
destinations in Northeast
Brazil, and deservedly so.
There are no high-rises
dwarfing the beach here,
just low-scale pousadas and
bungalows. The star attraction
of the area, in additions to
Jangadas, small sailboats, on the beach at Ponta Verde in Maceió the beach, are the natural
tide pools that form in the
that use local crafts to depict neighborhood is known as reefs just a short distance
the region’s religious festivals, filé, a loose weave that is often offshore. Colorful jangada
typical foods, the sugar-cane brightly colored. rafts take swimmers and
industry, and folklore. snorkelers out to swim in
The southern end of the city E Museu Théo Brandão the clear shallow waters that
borders the Lagoa Mundaú, Av da Paz 1490, Centro. Tel (82) 3214 teems with tropical fish.
one of the many lagoons that 1713. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Porto de Galinhas also
have given Alagoas its name. 2–5pm Sat. 8 & offers a lively atmosphere
The lagoon encompasses with excellent restaurants
several mangrove islands Environs and shopping, and, better
teeming with crustaceans and Praia do Gunga is a pretty, still, it does not take much
other marine life. Boats make palm-fringed beach located effort to get away from the
excursions into the lagoon’s 9 miles (15 km) south of bustle. The main mode of
channels. Maceió. Access to the beach is transportation is the dune
The Pontal da Barra gained via a private road cut- buggy, which allows for easy
neighborhood on the lagoon’s ting across one of the region’s transit along the dirt and
shore is a small fishing village. largest coconut plantations. sand roads that lead to local
There are several rustic Permission to enter must be beaches. A short distance
restaurants overlooking the obtained at the gate, but south along the beach leads
water, which serve the catch of beaches in Brazil are public to Ponta de Maracaípe, a
the day. Dishes with sururu (a property and access cannot be beautiful spot with a large
small type of clam) and crab are denied. One side of the beach white sandbar, where the
especially popular. In Pontal da faces the lagoon, while the Rio Maracaípe runs into the
Barra, visitors will find highly other side looks toward the ocean. The mangroves in the
skilled rendeiras, or lace-makers, ocean, offering the option of estuary are home to several
working on a variety of laces. fresh- or salt-water swimming, species of seahorse that live
The one most typical of the as well as kayaking. amid the roots of the tree.
Quilombos
In the African Yorubá language, quilombo
means dwelling place. In Brazil, the term
was used to describe a community of
runaway slaves. Brazil’s most famous
quilombo, Quilombo dos Palmares in
Alagoas, grew to the size of a small city,
Portrait of with 30,000 residents. In the late 1600s,
Zumbi Zumbi, the quilombo’s second leader,
successfully defended it from repeated
Portuguese attacks. However, the Portuguese were relentless,
and finally, in 1694, Palmares fell. Zumbi was beheaded and
the community destroyed. A number of such places escaped
Palmares’ fate and survive even today. There are now 1,000
quilombos registered in Brazil. Zumbi’s legacy is remembered
every year on November 20, when Zumbi dos Palmares
Day, or Black Awareness Day, is celebrated. Clear-water rock pools offshore from Porto
de Galinhas
9 Recife E Kahal Zur Israel

Synagogue
The Portuguese, who had built Olinda on a hillside, ignored Rua do Bom Jesus 197. Tel (81) 3224
the swampy islands below. The site of present-day Recife was 8351. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri,
2–5:30pm Sun. &
only a fishing village when the Dutch took over Pernambuco
Built in 1637, during the city’s brief
in 1630. Count Maurice of Nassau commanded the draining period of Dutch rule, this
and dyking of the flat islands at the mouth of the Rio synagogue recounts the history of
Capibaribe. The islands of Santo Antônio, Boa Vista, and the Jewish community in Recife. It
Recife Antigo (Old Recife) were connected to each other was the first synagogue anywhere
and the mainland with an ingenious system of bridges. Boa in the Americas. Many of the Jews,
who immigrated to Dutch-
Viagem, south of Recife, has a popular beach, many
hotels, and excellent nightlife.
M I L I TA R
AV AV Museu Cais
ALF
RED
Forte do Brum O do Sertão
Exploring Recife Antigo of the city. PRAÇÅ R B V
IEJRA
RU
A D L IS B
COMUNIDADE O B OA
In the heart of downtown Old Overlooking the LUSO-BRASILEIRA
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Torre de
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Recife is the Marco Zero and Rio Capibaribe, RUA
BRU
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the surrounding square, which the former CAI
S D ZERO
A P O ANTIGO
O Frevo
marks the official point where customs building
A
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Kahal Zur
Israel Synagogue
the city was founded. The site dates back to
A
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of the original pier, it controlled 1826, when
BA
AV
Rio
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all arrivals and departures Recife was one Bebe
ribe
AN
taking place in the bay. This of Brazil’s major
BR
bustling district of the city ports. The renovated building Ponte Buarque
de Macedo
RIO
makes for a pleasant walk houses restaurants, an art
during the day. It is possible gallery, and a shopping and
AV
Rio
to take a boat from the square entertainment center.
across to the Parque das Catedral de São
Esculturas, which features Praça da
Pedro dos Clérigos
Republica
an imposing collection of tall,
exotic sculptures made by Recife City Center Igreja São Francisco &
Capela Dourada
one of Brazil’s leading ceramic 1 Paço da Alfândega Ponte Sta
RU
artists Francisco Brennand A
Isabel
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A
ES
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(see p223). 3 Paço do Frevo AU O
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The most interesting street RA L
4 Torre de Malakoff
AR
in the historic quarter is Rua

GU
Ponte Duarte
5 Museu Cais do Sertão Coelho
AV
do Bom Jesus. During the Instituto Ricardo Brennand

6 Forte do Brum 7 miles (11 km)
brief period of Dutch rule the Oficina Brennand
Ponte da
Vista Boa
7 Forte das Cinco Pontas 10 miles (16 km)
street was known as Rua dos
8 Praça da Republic BOA
Judeus (Street of the Jews).
The Jewish community thrived 9 Igreja São Francisco &
VISTA
under Dutch rule, but once Capela Dourada
the Catholic Portuguese 0 Catedral de São Pedro dos
Clérigos 0 meters 500
re-established their control,
most fled, converted, or went q Casa da Cultura 0 yards 500
underground. A large number w Instituto Ricardo Brennand
of the buildings on this street e Oficina Brennard
have been restored to their
original 17th-century condition.
Every Sunday, the street comes
alive, as an art and crafts fair, live
music, and outdoor festivities
take place.
P Paço da Alfândega
Rua da Alfândega 35. Tel (81) 3194
2100. Open 10am–10pm Mon–Sat,
noon–8pm Sun & public hols. 7
∑ pacoalfandega.com.br
Just on the edge of the
historical quarter, the Paço da
Alfândega brings together
the old and the new elements The well-preserved old buildings on Rua do Bom Jesus
RECIFE  221
controlled Recife, had originally E Paço do Frevo VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

come from Portugal, fleeing the Praça do Arsenal da Marinha s/n.
Inquisition. At the height of Dutch Tel (81) 3355 9500. Open 9am–5pm Practical Information
rule, about half of Recife’s white Tue–Fri, 2–6pm Sat & Sun. & 8 Pernambuco. * 1,500,000.
population was Jewish. ∑ pacodofrevo.org.br n Empetur, (81) 3182 8300.
Unfortunately, the period of Come to this culture center to _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar).
religious tolerance was short- learn and experience all about ∑ www2.recife.pe.gov.br
lived, and when the Dutch Recife’s unique musical rhythm. Transport
surrendered to the Portuguese in It includes a Documentation k Aeroporto dos Guararapes, 7
1654 the Jews were given three Center, Music School, School of miles (11 km) S of city center. @
months to liquidate their assets Dance, and various temporary 9 miles (14 km) SW of city center.
and leave. Many members of and permanent exhibitions.
the Recife community set sail to
New Amsterdam and helped P Torre de Malakoff P Forte do Brum
found New York. Praça do Arsenal da Marinha, Rua Praça Comunidade Luso-Brasileira.
The synagogue was do Bom Jesus. Tel (81) 3184 3180. Tel (81) 3224 4620. Open 9am–4pm
dismantled, and its role as a Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 3–6pm Sat, Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat & Sun.
temple and meeting place of 3–7pm Sun. One of the few constructions to
RU
A the Jewish community was A relative newcomer to the pre-date the Dutch, Forte Brum is
AR
RE completely
pletely forgotten. Rua do Bom Jesus, the Malakoff located at the far end of Avenida
CI
FE
S Tower was built in 1845 as South Militar. Built by the Portuguese
R M AD RE D E DEU S
America’s first astronomical in 1629, it was taken over by the
observatory, and is still functional Dutch in 1630, and strengthened
Paço da
Alfãndega G
A Ba
ci
today. Visitors can climb to the and expanded. Today it is a
ND E
E O L IN D A
R U A D A A L FA a top terrace for a splendid view military museum.

do
Ponte Mauricio
de Nassau
Ponte 12 de
Setembro
Pi
na of the city courtesy of the
A V M Q. D
LX 200 telescopes. E Forte das Cinco Pontas

Capibaribe
Praça das Cinco Pontas. Tel (81)
A
AVENIDA MARTINS DE
B ARROS
V E Museu Cais do Sertão 3355 3107. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri,
M
O
SANTO 1–5pm Sat & Sun. & 8

ARIO
RUA A Av Alfredo Lisboa. Tel (81) 3089

R D E MA R C
DE
PRA
ARMO
R U A EST DO ROS
IA 2974. Open 9am–5pm Tue– Somewhat deceptively, the Forte

ANTÔNIO
T
RUA
IN
DO R
ANG R Fri. & das Cinco Pontas (Five-Pointed
S DO C
RU EL SA
A NT
DE
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R U PE D A This well-designed, Fort) actually only has four points.
AV RU RE RI
A NH
AV N
ENI MU TA
BA
A
D A
DA
DA
DO A
FO
NI
Z interactive museum The original Dutch fort, built in
O VA
RRO
RU
N GO RU
explores the history 1630 to protect the new Dutch-
D
ES
TA A
IR
A
FLOR
DA SÃ
EI
R N
S
TA
SC O
and culture of the Brazilian capital of Mauritsstad,
S
NE CA JO
AL
B RU A LÇ
DAS
SÉ
CA
A A
ES D O HER V
AD
R VI Sertão region and had five. When the Dutch with-
FREI
R DA AS
RUA
E L
T pays tribute to the drew in 1654, the Portuguese
RUA
RU DE Forte das
AD
A
O
NE Cinco Pontas
RU PAL G Recife carnival, leveled the unique shape and
R U A MA RQU
A D MA RE
A
IR
giving a taste of put up a more traditional four-
IA
CO O
NC S
TR
A
OR
RI
DIA
PÁ
AV SUL
ES T E L I TA
the lifestyle here. pointer. Wonderfully restored,

TO
Rio
DA
R FL
VI
O RIA
In one section, the fort now houses the city
O
Casa da
DA
NO RU
SS
Cap
PEIX A
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Cultura OT
PA
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kids over seven museum and contains an
JO
O CO
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RA
ibar
RU
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BA RU OR
may even play impressive collection of maps,
O
UA
DI
SÃ
A
ibe
Estação A
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with musical paintings, and artifacts that tell
A
Central O
RU
RI Aeroporto dos
AN
Guararapes
Ponte
O
PE
IX 7 miles (11 km) instruments. the history of Dutch rule.
O
Velha TO
Frevo
Recife’s signature beat is frevo. Fast, upbeat, almost polka-like,
The building was eventually torn the rhythm is particularly popular during Carnaval (see p45).
down at the beginning of the This distinct musical genre is
20th century. reputed to have derived its name
Archaeologists have confirmed from the verb ferver (to boil),
the exact location of the original which refers to the frenetic beat of
synagogue after digging up part the brass bands. One of the
of a mikveh (ritual bath). The accessories of a frevo dancer is the
current synagogue has been brightly colored hand-held parasol
rebuilt from the ground up, based that is used in the choreography.
on these findings, historical data, First recorded in the 1930s, the
and other sources. The museum rhythm made its way into the
presents an excellent docu- repertoire of mainstream Brazilian A dancer performing frevo with
mentary and display on the history musicians by the 1950s and 1960s. a colorful parasol
of the Jews in Recife.
Exploring Modern Recife white Portuguese tiles (azulejos)

were used to decorate the main
Though modern Recife stretches onto the mainland, its center altar and the walls of the small,
comprises the islands of Santo Antônio, Boa Vista, and Recife charming cloister.
Antigo. Skyscrapers exist alongside a handful of old colonial However, the pièce de
résistance is the Capela
buildings and crowded markets, lending the city a striking Dourada (Golden Chapel),
character. The area north of the center is as appealing, with leafy added in 1695, in an annex of
suburbs and a few museums and parks. The squares, dotted the main church. All of the
with impressive churches, retain much of their old-world charm. wood in the chapel is jacaranda
and cedar and is covered in
gold leaf or paint. The intricately
carved altars, arches, and beams
showcase some outstanding
Portuguese Baroque art. Each
altar consists of various arches,
adding a depth of field to the
statues on display. One of the
walls in the church is adorned
with a painting that depicts the
Crucifixion of a group of
Franciscan saints.
R Catedral de São Pedro

dos Clérigos
Rua São Pedro s/n, Santo Antônio.
Tel (81) 3224 2954. Open 8am–noon,
2–4pm Mon–Fri.
Dating back to 1728, Catedral
de São Pedro dos Clérigos is
one of the most impressive
The courtyard of Igreja São Francisco, with a graceful, colonnaded arcade churches in Pernambuco. Its
striking façade is dominated
P Praça da República imperial architecture, marked by by a statue of St. Peter, which
Palácio do Campo das Princesas: its symmetric forms and French was added in 1980. While from
Tel (81) 3425 2124. Open 9–11am & and Italian decorative styles. the outside the walls of the
2–6pm Fri & Sat, 2–6pm Sun. Teatro The Palácio da Justiça, with church look perfectly square
Princesa Isabel: Tel (81) 3355 3323. its dome-shaped cupola, was and straight, on the inside the
Open check for performance timings. constructed in 1930 to mark the church nave is octagonal.
Palácio da Justiça: Tel (81) 3182 0100. presidency of Getúlio Vargas The best features of the
Modern Recife’s main civic square, (see pp60–61). church are its stunning wood
Praça da República, is located at carving and the illusionistic
the tip of Santo Antônio island. ceiling. The main altar,
Some of the city’s finest public R Igreja São Francisco & balconies, and most of the
buildings can be found here. Capela Dourada remaining interior elements
The Palácio do Campo das Rua do Imperador, Santo Antônio. Tel were renovated in the 19th
Princesas (Governors’ Palace) (81) 3224 0530. Open 8–11:30am, century in the Rococo style.
building was built in the 1840s. 2–5pm Mon–Fri, 8–11am Sat. & The only original pieces that
Over the years, renovations and One of the major attractions in remain are the two gold-
additions have somewhat Recife, Igreja São Francisco painted wooden pulpits.
altered the original Neo-Classical served as the convent of the The square in front of the
design and made the building Third Franciscan Order. It was church, Pátio de São Pedro,
more eclectic. The lovely interior built in 1606, when the island of is one of Recife’s most popular
garden was designed by Brazil’s Santo Antônio only had 200 public squares. The beautifully
premier landscape artist, Roberto inhabitants. The initial convent restored area hosts a number
Burle Marx. Unfortunately, the was small and rather plain. of cultural events. The most
only view available to the public During the Dutch occupation of important, Terça Negra (Black
is the one through the wrought- Recife (1630–54) it was used as Tuesday), takes place every
iron fence posts. army barracks. Renovations Tuesday night. It is widely
The Teatro Princesa Isabel, a began after the return of the known for showcasing typical
renovated pink theater, hosts Franciscans. The courtyard was regional Afro-Brazilian musical
many of Recife’s prime cultural added with a surrounding styles, such as afoxé, maculelê,
productions. The building is an arcade of delicate and ornate and coco. The area also has
elegant example of classic Tuscan columns. Blue-and- many fine restaurants.
RECIFE  223
E Instituto Ricardo E Oficina Brennand

Brennand Access via Av Caxangá, Várzea.
Av Antônio Brennand, Várzea. Tel (81) Tel (81) 3271 2466. Open 8am–5pm
2121 0352. Open 1–5pm Tue–Sun. 7 Mon–Thu, 8am–4pm Fri, 10am–4pm
Founded by the cousin of Sat & Sun.
ceramic artist Francisco Acclaimed as the most unusual
Brennand, the Instituto Ricardo cultural attraction in Recife,
Brennand includes a small the Oficina Brennand is the
castle, the Castelo São João, famed artist’s personal gallery.
which houses a large collection Brennand (b.1927) is best
of European art, an known for his large
impressive collection collection of phallic-
of medieval armory shaped ceramic
Eye-catching ceramic figures and souvenirs and weapons, and an sculptures, nearly all
on sale, Casa da Cultura extensive archive of of which are striking,
paintings and potent, and larger
P Casa da Cultura documents from the than life. His collection
Rua Floriano Peixoto s/n, São José. years of the Dutch is creatively displayed
Tel (81) 3224 0557. Open 9am–7pm conquest of Brazil. inside a ceramic-
Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm Sat, 9am–2pm Sun. Also worth seeing covered brick factory
Used as a jail until 1973, the is the Pinacoteca and its surrounding
former penitentiary now gallery that features gardens, beautifully
houses the Casa da Cultura, a large collection of landscaped by Burle
the city’s largest arts and craft 17th-century paint- Marx, a renowned
market. Each of the old jail ings and drawings landscape architect
cells holds a shop showcasing by landscape artists Ceramic tiles by of the 20th century.
some of the finest leather, Frans Post and Albert Francisco Brennand In addition to
lace, and ceramic crafts of this Eckhout, both of Brennand’s superb
region. Built in 1850, the jail whom were hired by Dutch ceramic art, the collection
was modeled after US prisons count Maurice of Nassau to also showcases thousands
in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. portray Brazil’s fauna and flora, of playfully designed ceramic
The four wings are in a cross as well as scenes from everyday tiles, as well as some of his
shape, allowing a view of life. Over the years, Brennand paintings and drawings. The
all four corridors from one has amassed the world’s largest bold mix of stylized imagery,
vantage position in the center collection of Post’s work. The embellishment, and erotic
of the cross. The center brings exhibit also includes antique motifs, visible in all his works,
out the monthly Agenda maps and documents that led one critic to define
Cultural, an excellent listing recount the brief, but eventful, Brennand’s art as “tropical
of cultural events. history of the Dutch in Brazil. sensual Baroque.”
Gardens in Oficina Brennand, adorned with ceramic sculptures

0 Olinda
One of the best-preserved colonial cities in Brazil, Olinda
was founded in 1535 by the Portuguese. Much of it was
burned down during the Dutch occupation in 1631, and later
beautifully restored to its former glory. Magnificent colonial
buildings, gardens, Baroque churches, and numerous small
chapels mark Olinda, which was designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 1982. Although much of this historic city lies
on a steep hillside, it is only a short walk up, and the views
of the Atlantic Ocean are splendid. Its narrow cobblestone
streets are perfect for exploring on foot. The highlight of the
walk suggested here is the Praça da Sé, which features historic
churches and sweeping views of Recife (see pp220–23), only The view of Olinda from Alto da Sé, with
6 miles (10 km) to the south. the sea in the background
1 Praça do Carmo, IC
the prominent city NT
LA
square, faces the AT
splendid Igreja Nossa
Senhora do Carmo,
resting on a
small hill above.
S F
RE IRE 1
A RCO
ID A M
A VEN
2 Convento de São Francisco L

SO AV
Brazil’s oldest Franciscan convent A D
O EN
O
ID
SA D
RU A
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was built in 1585. When the Dutch LIB

RUA
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invaded Olinda in 1630 the DE

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convent was abandoned, and NC

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rebuilt in the 18th century. The O S ÃO

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cloister walls, decorated with RU
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life of St. Francis. ALFR
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SA J.
T R AV E
A
PALH
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3 Igreja da Sé which was built R

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in 1535, is the oldest parish BIS

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church in Northeast Brazil. The UNT
INHO 4
3
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church has undergone many

A
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renovations over the centuries.

BE
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The last, in 1984, restored the

IO
Walk route
BI INH
G
A
SP O
building almost to its original

O
16th-century state.
Tips for Walkers

Starting point: Secretaria de
Turismo, Praça do Carmo.
Walking time: 2–3 hours. Flat,
non-slippery footwear is best.
Best days: Tue–Sat. Museums are
only open in the morning.
Places to eat: Oficina do Sabor, 4 Alto da Sé
Rua do Amparo 335; Olinda The Alto da Sé is one of the highest points in Olinda and offers a
Sorvetes e Sucos, Rua São magnificent view of Recife in the distance. In the evenings, locals
Bento 358. gather here to browse the crafts market, and eat tapioca and
pancakes made from manioc.
OLINDA  225
5 Mercado da Ribeira
Originally the building
where slaves were bought Practical Information
and sold, this 18th-century Pernambuco. * 397,000.
structure is now one of n Rua Prudente de Moraes 472,
Olinda’s busiest crafts (81) 3305 1060. _ Torneio dos
markets. Especially popular Repentistas (late Jan); Carnaval
are naive art ceramics, (Feb/Mar); Olinda Arte em Toda
carnival masks, and frevo Parte, open house event of artists’
umbrellas (see p221). studios (late Nov–early Dec).
∑ olinda.pe.gov.br
Transport
k Recife International Airport. @
6 Igreja e Mosteiro
AN São Bento
E
OC R Founded in 1582, this
MA
B EIR
A
church holds a
IDA
EN
AV
BO
RB
A
magnificient gold altar.
EL
NO
A MA It took more than a year
NID G O N Ç A LV E S
AV
E
SIGIM
UNDO and 30 professionals to
NIDA fully restore the altar in
AV E
2001. Gregorian
PRAÇA DO
SITIO DOS
REIS
6 chanters add a special
touch to the Sunday
morning mass.
AV 10
DE SE
NOV
EM
BR
RUA
O
JU S
R 15 DE NO V EMB RO
T IN
O G
RO
EI
ON
N
JA
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DE
R 27
VES
O
NT
PRAÇA JOÃO 7 Museu de Arte

BE
ALFREDO
RUA SETE
Contemporânea is
S ÃO
DE SET EMBR
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a fine 18th-century
RUA
DE
building and a former

RUA
jail. This building now

RUA
POR
houses an interesting 8 Museu do Mamulengo displays

PRU
a large collection of puppets from

TO
collection of artwork
RU
all over the Northeast. Unique to

DEN
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by contemporary
A A
Olinda’s Carnaval, the giant puppets,

N
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Pernambucan artists.
TO
UIR
5 carried by revelers along the parade

NIO
7
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route, are true works of art.

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9
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9 Rua do Amparo
0 meters 300 More than a dozen artists have set up their studios in the historic
buildings along Rua do Amparo. The street also boasts several
0 yards 300
excellent restaurants, cafés, and B&Bs.
For key to symbols see back flap
Exploring Olinda E Museu de Arte

Contemporânea
A calm, colonial city, Olinda grew to be the capital of the rich Rua 13 de Maio 149, Carmo.
sugar-growing region of Pernambuco. Reconstruction started Tel (81) 3184 3153. Open 9am–5pm
Tue–Sun.
in earnest only after Dutch forces were expelled in 1654.
Housed in a fine 18th-century
The city has maintained its 17th-century architectural fabric building that originally served
intact. Olinda is also home to a vibrant community of artists, as an ajube, or jail working in
musicians, and liberal professionals. The scenic city, though, conjunction with the Catholic
is most renowned for its lively Carnaval. church, the Museum of
Contemporary Art displays
both permanent and tem-
porary exhibits. During the
Inquisition, religious prisoners
were brought here to pray and
confess their sins. Today, the
place holds some interest for
those looking for serious
modern art. Works by local
contemporary artists are
regularly displayed in front
of the stairs.
E Museu do Mamulengo
The exterior of Igreja e Mosteiro de São Bento in Olinda Rua do Sao Bento 344. Tel (81) 3493
2753. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat.
R Convento de São R Igreja e Mosteiro de One of the region’s unique
Francisco São Bento gifts to the cultural scene in
Rua de São Francisco 280. Tel (81) 3429 Rua São Bento. Tel (81) 3316 3290. Brazil, mamulengo, or puppetry,
0517. Open 8am–noon & 2–5pm Mon– Open 8am–noon & 2–5pm daily. is showcased in this fascinating
Fri, 9am–noon & 2–4:30pm Sat. & 5 6:30am Mon–Sat, 10am Sun (with museum. Nearly 1,000 puppets
The Convento de São Francisco Gregorian chants). are featured here, with a
was the first convent built by Built in 1582, this monastery portion of the collection
the Franciscan order in Brazil. was destroyed by the Dutch dating from the 1800s.
The complex includes a 1585 along with most of the city, Having performed before
church, Nossa Senhora das and rebuilt in the late 18th political figures, royalty,
Neves (Our Lady of the Snow), century. It is acclaimed for its and luminaries through the
and the adjacent chapels of Baroque altar in the chapel ages, these puppets are
St. Anne and St. Roque, built and intricate wood carving, today used as popular
in 1754 and 1811, respectively. which features the image of entertainment. During folk
The highlight of the convent São Bento (St. Benedict) festivals, the puppets can be
is the beautiful arcade himself. In 2001, the original seen enacting comedies, skits,
surrounding the cloister. wood altar was repainted with and Pernambucan folk legends.
The tiled walls tell the story of gold leaf. The sacristy’s three For those interested in the
St. Francis of Assisi. The sacristy’s large paintings, by 18th-century puppets’ historical background,
beautiful Baroque furniture, artist José Eloy da Conceição, there is a curator who can
carved from dark jacaranda portray scenes from the life explain it by asking the
wood, is as impressive. of the saint. puppets themselves.
The Olinda Carnaval

Every year during Carnaval, the cobblestoned streets of Olinda
become the stage for a week-long street party. The meeting
place is the square, known as quarto cantos (four corners), on
the corner of Rua do Amparo and Rua Prudente de Moraes.
Here, blocos (neighborhood groups) begin their parades
through the streets, playing music, singing, and dancing as
they go. The blocos often have themes or names such as
“Virgins,” “Elephant,” or “Midnight Man.” Dominating the
festivities are enormous papier-mâché puppets that bloco
members proudly carry along the parade route. The music
Revelers filling a street in Olinda, with varies from frevo, an upbeat, almost frenetic beat unique to
larger-than-life papier-mâché puppets Pernambuco, to maracatu, a much more African beat.
q Ilha de Itamaracá
Pernambuco. * 16,000.
@ from Recife.
The island of Itamaracá played

an important strategic role during
the Dutch interregnum in Brazil.
In 1631, the Dutch built the
Forte Orange here, to protect
their new domain from invading
forces. The Portuguese destroyed
the Dutch-built adobe when
they took over in 1654. However,
the location was so unique that
the Portuguese created a new Pottery on display at a craft shop in Caruaru
fort in stone on the site. During
past renovations, artifacts dating The eastern part of Itamaracá, west of Caruaru, still specializes
back to the Dutch period were with its lovely ocean beaches, in producing figurines. Casa
found. Just across from the fort is is also a popular weekend Museu Mestre Vitalino in Alto
a small island, Coroa do Avião, destination. do Moura is dedicated to this
which has natural reef pools. Boat great artist, and displays his tools
tours to the island leave from the P Forte Orange and some personal possessions.
beach in front of the fort. Estrada do Forte. Open 9am–5pm Caruaru’s open market is the
Itamaracá is also home to the Mon–Sat, 8am–5pm Sun. & largest in the Northeast, and is a
Projeto Peixe Boi, a manatee O Projeto Peixe Boi very popular tourist attraction.
research and rehabilitation Estrada do Forte Orange. Tel (81) 3544 Besides figurines, leather bags,
center. Manatees live along the 1056. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. straw baskets, and ceramic pots
Brazilian coast from Alagoas to &7 are also sold at some of
Amapá, but are threatened by the best prices in
loss of habitat, as well as by Brazil. Apart from a
speedboats and their often- w Caruaru bustling market
lethal outboard propellers. Pernambuco. * 300,000. @ from scene, Caruaru,
Scientists estimate that there Recife. _ Festa do Forró (Jun–Jul). known as the
are only around 400 animals in ∑ caruaru.pe.gov.br capital of forró (see
the wild along this coast. The p240), hosts Brazil’s
center works to rehabilitate Located 100 miles (160 km) largest month-long
injured manatees, and to study on the mainland southwest of forró festival. The
those that cannot be released. Itamaracá, Caruaru is a market Museu do Barro
A natural history exhibit on the town whose fame rests on its pays tribute to
manatee is offered along with marvelous ceramic figurinhas Luis Gonzaga, Figurine, Casa
a host of interactive learning (figurines). Artist Vitalino Perreira the father of Museu Mestre
activities for children. Visitors are dos Santos (1909–63) made forró music. Vitalino
only allowed to observe those many of these brightly painted
animals that cannot be released sculptures, and his hometown, Environs
into the wild. Projeto Peixe Boi Alto de Moura, a community of Situated 17 miles (30 km)
is currently closed to visitors. potters located 4 miles (6 km) northwest of Caruaru, Nova
Jerusalém is an intriguing
re-creation of Jerusalem. In the
week before Easter, thousands
of people flock to watch an epic
performance of the Paixão de
Cristo (Passion of Christ). Local
tour operators offer all-inclusive
packages to the town and its
annual play.
E Casa Museu Mestre Vitalino

Rua Mestre Vitalino 281. Tel (81) 3725
0805. Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sat,
9am–5pm Sun.
E Museu do Barro
Praça José de Vasconcelos. Tel (81)
3721 2545. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat,
Rehabilitated manatees at the Projeto Peixe Boi, Ilha de Itamaracá 9am–1pm Sun.
e Fernando de Noronha ATL ANT I C

OC E AN
Discovered in 1503 by Amerigo Vespucci, the 21-island
archipelago of Fernando de Noronha was fought over for the
next two centuries by the French, Dutch, and Portuguese,
who built forts on strategic lookout points. The island, located
220 miles (354 km) off the coast, was used in a variety of ways,
including as a political prison during World War II. In 1988, the Key
Parque Nacional Marinho de Fernando de Noronha was Park boundary
created in order to protect the fragile marine and island
ecology of the archipelago. Today, a combination of crystal-
clear water, fascinating wildlife, diverse marine life which
includes multicolored fish, turtles, sharks, and whales, and
stunning beaches make Fernando de Noronha one of the
most beautiful destinations in Brazil. One of the best ways to
explore the island is to rent a buggy.
Surfing on Praia
do Boldró
Fernando de
Noronha offers
some of Brazil’s best
surfing, but only
between December
and March.
Praia do
Boldró
. Baía do Sancho Praia Cacimba RRO

The most beautiful and isolated beach on do Padre MO
Noronha, Baía do Sancho is also a snorkelers’
paradise with its clear, turquoise waters and Praia da Baía
myriad tropical fish. Praia da Baía do do Porcos
Sancho
B A ÍA D OS N DO
GOL F IN H OS
R NA
FE
O
RR
M OA N C O
B R
Praia
DA do Leão
RRO HA
MO ABIN I LHA MO R R O
IX
QU DO LEÃO
. Spinner Dolphins
Hundreds of dolphins gather at Ponta Capim
sunrise to leap and spin at Dolphin Açu
Cove in the Baía dos Golfinhos.
. Turtle Hatchlings
Ilha Morro do Leão is a prime
KEY hatchery for green sea
turtles. Between December
1 Praia do Meio is located
close to the ruins of Forte Nossa and May, around sunset,
Senhora Conceição. scores of tiny turtle
hatchlings break out of their
2 Baía do Sueste is the site for the shells and make a dash for
Projecto Tamar (see p211), and it is the sea. The beach is closed
possible to swim with the turtles. to the public during hatching
season from 6am to 6pm.
Morro do Pico VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The sharp basalt finger of Morro
do Pico, a testament to the island’s Practical Information
volcanic heritage, stands 1,053 ft Pernambuco. * 2,500.
(321 m) above sea level. n Divisão de Turismo, Palácio
São Miguel, Vila dos Remédios
(81) 3619 1352, or Projecto Tamar,
Alameda do Boldró (81) 3619
1174. Open 8am–10pm daily.
& environmental tax assessed
on all visitors to the island; to
be paid on arrival at the airport.
ILHA DO License required for scuba
RATA diving in national parks.
∑ noronha.pe.gov.br
Transport
ILHA DO ~ from Recife or Natal
MEIO
ILHA
RASA
Ponta de
Santo Antônio
Praia de
Santo Antônio
Forte dos Buraco da
Remédios Raquel
Praia do
Meio Vila dos
O Remédios
PIC
DO
Vila do
. Praia da Atalaia
Trinta
A
CÉ DO
H A shelf of volcanic rock extends out into the

ON
S
AN O
R surf line. At low tide, tropical fish take refuge

FR RR
NO in the natural pools.

O
M
DE
DO Praia da
R R O I S TA Atalaia
V
M OAO Diving & Marine Life
B
Protected as a marine national park, Fernando de Noronha offers
BAÍA the best scuba diving in Brazil. Greatly suited for diving, its water
DO temperature is a constant 28º C (82º F), and the depth of underwater
SUESTE
visibility is almost 98 ft (30 m). Underwater there is an astounding
variety of marine life – rays of all types, green sea turtles, and the even
rarer hawksbill turtle, monkfish, lemon sharks and reef sharks,
clownfish hiding in anemones, surgeon fish, and parrotfish are just
0 km 1 some varieties. As a result of the island’s volcanic heritage there are
also numerous swim-throughs.
0 miles 1
Key
Major road
Minor road
Trail
Park boundary A school of surgeon fish in the coral reefs of Fernando de Noronha

PARAÍBA, RIO GRANDE DO

NORTE & CEAR
CEARÁ
Pristine beaches, lively beach towns, and massive shifting
sand dunes are the main attractions of these three states. Natal, the
capital of Rio Grande do Norte, and João Pessoa are pleasant, historic
cities with good urban beaches. However, this part of Northeast Brazil
is best experienced along its coast, and in its quiet, relaxed fishing
villages and beautiful, isolated beaches.
In 1532, Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and west of Fortaleza. Parque Nacional
and Ceará were among the first states de Ubajara lies in western Ceará and
in the Northeast to be colonized by the comprises caves, eco trails, and
Portuguese. These states never grew as magnificent waterfalls.
rich or settled as their more southerly Rio Grande do Norte lies in the extreme
neighbors because sugar cane did not northeast corner of Brazil. The real growth
thrive here. However, the three states industry here is tourism. Natal, the capital
have taken advantage of the constant city, has become one the Northeast’s
sunshine and beautiful beaches and main points of entry for tourists from
have developed tourism as the mainstay Western Europe. Nearly all come here
of the economy. for the sunshine and beaches.
Ceará is famous for its beaches, Wedged in between Pernambuco and
with their warm, turquoise waters, set Rio Grande do Norte, Paraíba boasts some
against a backdrop of red sandstone of Brazil’s least spoilt beaches. Agriculture
cliffs. The most popular include Morro plays an important role in the state
Branco and the lively beach town of economy. The capital, João Pessoa, is a
Canoa Quebrada, both located to pleasant city with a small historic center.
the southeast of Fortaleza, and the The city of Campina Grande is famous for
isolated beach of Jericoacoara, north its June festival, the Festas Juninas.
Pedra Furada rock formation, Jericoacoara beach

Traditional wickerwork for sale at Mercado Central, Fortaleza
Exploring Paraíba, Rio Grande do

Norte & Ceará
Most visitors to the states of Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and
Ceará focus on the natural beauty of the beaches and the coastline.
The most popular gateway destinations are Natal in Rio Grande
and Fortaleza in Ceará, which offer easy access to most of the
region’s attractions. Paraíba’s capital, João Pessoa, with its colonial
buildings, parks, and beaches, is a pleasant place to visit. In the
interior of Paraíba, the monster rock formations in Cariri offer
an almost other-worldly experience. Dinosaur fossils, discovered
in Souza, have made the place archaeologically
important. The harsh, arid interior landscape
of these states has a unique, stark beauty.
Camocim JERICOACOARA
Barroquinha Acaraú
Icaraí
Sights at a Glance Granja Morrinhos

Trairi
Amontada
raú
Towns & Cities
Santana
Aca
Coreaú C
1 João Pessoa pp234–5 do Acarau Umirim
2 Campina Grande Tianguá Sobral
4 Souza
ba
PARQUE NACIONAL Pentecostes

5 Natal DE UBAJARA
pa
7 Genipabu São Benedito

São Luis Paramoti
0 Mossoró Reriutaba
Ibia
w Fortaleza pp246–7 Ipu Açude

Araras Santa Canindé
Quitéria
National Parks
r Parque Nacional de Ubajara Ipueiras Nova
Russas Madalena
Areas of Natural Beauty Tamboril
Serra da
Quixadá
3 Cariri C E A R Á
Boa Viagem
8 Maracajaú
Crateús
Quixeramobim
9 Costa Branca
q Canoa Quebrada Senador
Pompeu
e Jericoacoara
Novo
ibe
Oriente Mombaça
uar
Beaches & Resort

iu
Jag
6 Rota do Sol Beaches p241 bu

a na
Taua B Acopiara
Parambu
Catarina Açude
Orós
Iguatu
Saboeiro
Brasília
Antonina
do Norte
Campos
Sales Potengi Juàzeiro
do Norte
Araripe
Crato
Jardim
Downtown João Pessoa from across the lagoon

PA R A Í B A , R I O G R A N D E D O N O R T E & C E A R Á  233
Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
State border
Colorful old buildings in the historic center of Fortaleza
Getting Around
All major cities and some smaller destinations, such as Campina
Grande in Paraíba, can be reached by domestic flights. There are
regular buses between all towns and cities. However, roads in this
part of Brazil are in poor condition and are very badly maintained.
Cumbuco
The BR-101 connects João Pessoa to Natal. From Natal, travelers
Caucaia continuing north to Fortaleza take the BR-304, which veers west
FORTALEZA and cuts inland across Rio Grande do Norte to Ceará. The stretch
of the BR-230 towards Souza is in rough shape. Ensure that the
Pacatuba vehicle, preferably a 4WD, is in good condition. Be sure to carry
Cascavel
extra gas, water, and supplies.
Pacajus
Baturité
Aracati
CANOA QUEBRADA
Jaguaruana
COSTA BRANCA
Russas Areia Branca São Bento do Norte
Macau
Morada
Nova Limeoeiro MOSSORÓ Touros
do Norte
João
i
od
Câmara
Ap
Taipu MARACAJAÚ
Jaguaretama Apodi
Assu
RIO GRANDE GENIPABU
Ceará Mirim
Caraúbas NATAL
DO NOR TE Macaíba
has
Pereiro
Ponta Negra
an
Pau dos Patu

ROTA DO SOL
P ir
Ferros Currais Novos Tangará

Orós Goianinha BEACHES
rí Praia da Pipa
Icó Luís Acarí ai
Gomes
São Bento
Caicó Picuí Tr Canguaretama
Nova Cruz
SOUZA
Pombal Santa Rio Tinto
Guarabira
Luzia
Cajazeiras Cabedelo
Patos Esperança
P A R A Í B A Alagoa Santa Rita
CAMPINA JOÃO
Teixeira GRANDE Grande
Itaporanga PESSOA
Milagres CARIRI
Conceição Pitimbu
Sumé Recife
Alcantil
Monteiro
Sáo João
0 km 50
do Tiger
0 miles 50

1 João Pessoa
Founded in 1585 as Nossa Senhora das Neves, the city derives
its present name from a former governor of Paraíba. Brazil’s
third-oldest city, João Pessoa maintains an air of old-world
charm, with a host of well-restored colonial churches,
convents, and monasteries. Local visitors, however, flock here
mainly for the easy atmosphere of its great white sandy
beaches along the coastline. The dense tropical forest that
once covered the coastal strip of Paraíba now thrives only in
patches, one of which lies within João Pessoa, forming one of
the largest areas of natural wilderness in any city in the world.
Rococo-style painting on Igreja de São

Francisco’s ceiling
the ceiling of the church depicts

various images of St. Francis. Even
older than the church by a few
decades is a stone cross across the
courtyard. The church is part of
the larger Centro Cultural de Sao
Francisco complex, which also
includes the Convento de Santo
Antônio, chapels, and a museum
of popular and sacred art, the
result of grandscale reforms
Majestic colonial buildings, Centro Histórico carried out in 1718 and 1788.
Exploring João Pessoa R Igreja de São Francisco P Mosteiro de São Bento

One of the oldest and less Praça São Francisco, Centro Histórico. Rua General Osório, Centro Histórico.
developed cities in Brazil, João Tel (83) 3218 4505. Open 9am–5pm Tel (83) 3241 1093. Open 8:30am–
Pessoa has a small historic core, Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat & Sun. & 8 4pm Mon–Fri. 5 7am.
which remains little changed One of the most spectacular Built in the 17th century, this
despite the modernization churches in the city sits majes working monastery is a shining
drive. It is located a bit inland, tically atop a hill that bears the example of simplicity. Its
on a small hill overlooking the same name. The most striking unembellished, wellrestored
Rio Sanhauá and Rio Paraíba. feature of this impressive 18th interior features a curved
Modern João Pessoa, with fast century church is the tower wooden ceiling.
emerging skyscrapers, gravitates topped with an oriental dome.
towards the beaches. Due to a The altar contains an 18th L Praia de Tambaú
state law restricting the height century statue of St. Benedict, 4 miles (7 km) E of city center.
of buildings within 490 ft (150 m) one of the few black saints. The João Pessoa’s most popular
of the shoreline to four stories beautiful Rococostyle painting on urban beach is Praia de Tambaú,
or less, the waterfront is free a 4mile (7km) long stretch of
of the curtain wall of concrete sand lined with restaurants,
highrises that afflict some cafés, and interesting food and
other Brazilian beachfronts. craft stalls. In the evenings,
locals stroll the seawall, enjoying
R Catedral Basílica de Nossa the cool breeze.
Senhora das Neves
Rua General Osório, Centro. Tel (83) L Praia do Cabo Branco
3221 2503. Open 2–5pm Mon–Fri, S of Praia do Tambaú.
5–7pm Sat. 5 5pm Mon–Fri, 7:30pm Better suited for swimming
Sat, 6am, 9am, 7:30pm Sun. & than Tambaú, Cabo Branco is a
After four major renovations residential beach area looking
little remains of the original out over the easternmost point
cathedral built in 1586. The in the Americas, Ponta do Seixas
interior maintains a striking (Seixas Point). The point juts out
harmony, unlike many of the into the ocean, and is topped by
elaborate Rococostyle Façade of Igreja de São Francisco, João a small lighthouse, with a
churches in Brazil. Pessoa’s celebrated church monument marking the spot.
JOÃO PESSOA  235
} Ilha de Picãozinho north of Tambaú. Trips to this VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

N of Praia de Tambaú. 8 island can be arranged by
Actually a large coral reef, Ilha travel agencies. Practical Information
de Picãozinho is a popular spot. Paraíba. * 723,000. n Sectur,
At low tide, boats depart from L Praia Tambaba Parque Solonde Lucena 216,
Praia do Tambaú, and take 19 miles (30 km) S of town. (83) 3218 9852.
visitors over to swim and Tambaba is a beautiful, ∑ joaopessoa.pb.gov.br
snorkel in the natural tide pools. secluded nudist beach with Transport
Fish and starfish can be easily lush vegetation, small reefs, ~ 7 miles (11 km) W of city
observed in the crystal-clear and tide pools. Two coves center. @ Rodoviária at Rua
water. Check the tide table for make up this splendid beach. Francisco Londres, Varadouro.
specific times daily before Clothing is optional on one
taking a dip. For a few days of the coves. The other cove,
every month, the tide is too which is exclusively a nudist and allows men only if
high for the reef to be visited. beach, is closed off by a gate accompanied by women.
} Ilha de Areia Vermelha

12 miles (20 km) N of town. 8
Another low-tide attraction is
Ilha de Areia Vermelha (Island
of Red Sand). For approximately
25 days every month, low tide
exposes a beautiful beach of
striking red-orange sand, a short
distance off the coast of Joāo
Pessoa. With a choice of floating
bars, it makes a perfect spot for
swimming, snorkeling, or
sunbathing. The temporary
island is accessible from Praia
da Camboinhas, 8 miles (13 km) Praia Tambaba, located south of João Pessoa
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João Pessoa City Center
ATLANTIC
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OCEAN
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0 meters 500 Area of João Pessoa Praia de
5 Praia do Cabo Branco town map Tambaú
Praia
6 Ilha de Picãozinho 0 yards 500 Tambaba
19 miles
Praia do (30 km)
7 Ilha de Areia Vermelha Cabo Branco
8 Praia Tambaba

2 Campina Grande
Paraíba. * 400,000. ~ @ from João
Pessoa. n Rua 13 de Maio 329, (83)
3310 6100. _ Micarande (late Apr),
Festas Juninas (Jun).
Ideal for experiencing the

unique sertão culture, Campina
Grande is a large market
town with some degree of
industrial growth.
The autumn harvest festival,
Festas Juninas, although
celebrated everywhere in the
Northeast, is biggest in Campina
Grande. The vast, purpose-built The Lajedo do Pai Mateus rock formation, Cariri
fairground, Parque do Povo,
includes several smaller theme 3 Cariri the local epithet, “Devil’s Marbles.”
parks such as the Sítio São João, Paraíba. @ from Campina Grande. 8
The most remarkable of these
a reproduction of a traditional Cariri Ecotours, (84) 9660 1818. granite monsters is the Pedra
ranch where visitors can ∑ caririecotours.com.br do Capacete (Helmet Stone), a
observe the rural nordeste 20-ft- (6-m-) high boulder that is
lifestyle, and the Arraial Hilton Situated in the Cariri Paraíbano, open in the front and hollow
Motta, a replica of a small a large plateau in the Serra da underneath, resembling a huge
interior town. Borborema, Cariri is the point at war helmet.
The Museu de Arte Assis which the sertão proper begins. From the plateau, there are
Chateaubriand has a striking Tours in this area of aboriginal breathtaking views of the
collection of modern works, rock carvings and huge rock Borborema valley. The diverse
with a focus on the work of formations can be organized by landscape consists of small trees,
artists from the Northeast. Cariri Ecotours, based in Ponta bushes, cacti, and bromeliads.
Negra, Natal. Sightings of emu birds, an
E Museu de Arte Assis One of the formations, the ostrich-like avian, are common
Chateaubriand Lajedo do Pai Mateus, sits on in this area.
Rua João Lélis 581, Catolé. Tel (83) 3337 the private grounds of a fazenda.
3637. Open 1:30–6:30pm Mon–Fri. A vast slab of bare granite, it is
Parque do Povo littered with boulders bigger than 4 Souza
Tel (83) 3310 6100. Open only during houses, as if a giant had scattered Paraíba. * 60,000. @ from Campina
Festas Juninas. & 7 his collection of pebbles – hence Grande. 8 Cariri Ecotours, (84) 9660
1818. ∑ caririecotours.com.br
Brazil’s most important

prehistoric site, Souza is located
deep in the Paraíba interior,
almost on the border with
Ceará. It was a large shallow lake
where hundreds of dinosaur
species roamed, 130 million
years ago. Today, the dry
riverbed of the Rio de Peixe,
also known as the Vale dos
A night scene of Campina Grande, lit up during the Festas Juninas Dinossauros, contains one of
the world’s best collections of
Festas Juninas dinosaur tracks. The largest and
One of the most popular folklore traditions of the Northeast, best track forms a perfect 164-
the Festas Juninas began as a peasant celebration of the corn ft- (50-m-) long trail across the
harvest and the June solstice, the longest night of the year in meandering riverbed.
the Southern Hemisphere. June also coincided with the feasts Scattered throughout the
of St. Anthony, St. John, and St. Peter. Over the years, the pagan valley are numerous other
rituals and Catholic events were melded together. The atmos- tracks, most of which have
phere is burlesque, as partygoers dress up in peasant outfits and not yet been catalogued or
perform square dances to the sounds of forró (see p240). Bonfires protected. Some, indeed, have
are lit and fireworks sent aloft to safeguard the harvest and ward yet to be discovered. Cariri
off evil spirits, as well as to bring light to the long night. Ecotours can combine trips in
this area with visits to Cariri.
The Sertão
The sertão is a geographic region that encompasses almost half the territory of the
Northeast. Aridity is its single most important characteristic. Rainfall is sparse, and the
vegetation is primarily caatinga, which consists of small trees and bushes. Agriculture
is difficult in the sertão, which makes it one of Brazil’s poorest regions.
Traditionally, sertanejos have made a living herding goats or cattle. One of the
country’s original cowboy regions, the sertão has also seen the largest outflow of
people in Brazil. Hard climatic conditions forced en masse migrations either to the
coast, or to the big cities such as São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Not just the dislocated
northeasterners, or nordestinos, but all Brazilians have an affinity for the sertão way
of life: forró music is loved throughout the country, and Brazil’s popular culture
abounds with sertanejo stories and images.
After a sudden rain, the dry

land will turn green and lush
for a short period.
Palma cactus is often the only

food available to livestock. The
tough, chewy leaves are ground
into a paste and used as cattle feed.
Caatinga, the vegetation growing in this arid landscape, consists of

cacti, bromeliads, and scrubby trees and bushes. These plant species
are suitable to the challenging conditions of the sertão.
Goats are the most

Rio São Francisco is one of
important livestock in
the main water sources in the
the sertão. More
sertão. Large irrigation projects
adaptable than other
are using the water to make
animals, the goat
agriculture possible. Many
thrives in the dry and
areas in Pernambuco grow
hot conditions. It is an
fruits and vegetables.
important source of
meat, milk, and leather.
Luiz Gonzaga (1912–89), Brazil’s

Nordestino markets are where homesick communities of most famous “Son of the Sertão,”
migrants from the Northeast meet, listen to forró, and eat was a forró musician. Most of his
some of their favorite foods. São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro songs celebrated or lamented the
have the largest sertanejo immigrant communities. life of those living in the sertão.
A palm-lined beach in Fortaleza

The small chapel in the central courtyard of the Forte dos Reis Magos
5 Natal who had traveled to Bethlehem northeastern folk festivals. A

Rio Grande do Norte. * 800,000. k
bearing gifts. The Dutch restaurant and a cafeteria offer
@ n Centro de Turismo, Rua occupied the fort in 1633, some regional dishes. On
Aderbal de Figueiredo 980, (84) 3211 upgrading it into its current Thursday evenings, the
6149. _ Carnatal (Dec). five-pointed formation before courtyard of the old prison
turning it back over to the becomes an outdoor dance hall,
Natal is a pleasant, modern, and Portuguese in 1654. Access as the center plays host to forró
safe city, increasingly sought out to the fort is via a narrow com o turista, an evening of forró
as a sunshine destination by pedestrian walkway. At high dancing, with live music and
winter-weary Europeans. It has tide, the fort is cut off from land instructors on hand to help shy
several attractions, including by the waves. Visitors have the and left-footed foreigners with
beautiful beaches, sand hills, full run of the fort, from the the dance steps.
lagoons, dune buggy rides, garrisons and the mess hall to Most visitors to Natal stay in
unusual sand art, and an the high ramparts, which offer Ponta Negra, a waterfront
incredible nightlife. terrific views of the city skyline. neighborhood in a modern
The city and its most famous Natal was never a large part of the city featuring a
landmark, Forte dos Reis trading center, and there are lovely long beach with good
Magos (Fort of the Magi), few historic buildings. The waves for surfing. At the far
date back to December 25, city’s 19th-century penitentiary end of the beach the Morro do
1598, when the Portuguese has been converted into the Careca, a towering 390-ft
established a fort and settle- Centro de Turismo, a showcase (120-m) sand dune, is off-limits
ment at the mouth of the Rio for regional arts and crafts. All to climbers because of the
Potengi. In honor of the season, of the dozens of prison cells danger of erosion.
the city was named Natal, the along four corridors have been On the coast between
Portuguese word for Christmas. transformed into shops selling the old downtown and the
The fort was named after the leatherwork, lace, ceramics, modern parts of Natal there
three wise kings of the east hammocks, and figurines from stands the Parque das Dunas, a
12-sq-mile (6-sq-km) reserve
of coastal dunes and native
Forró vegetation. The park has several
According to local legend, the trails, but can only be visited
musical style known as forró is said with a guide.
to have been inspired by visiting
foreigners. In the early days of ( Centro de Turismo
World War II, the Americans Rua Aderbal de Figueiredo 980.
created a massive air base near the Tel (84) 3211 6149. Open 9am–7pm
city. Locals invited the American daily. 7
airmen to their parties, and to
make sure they felt welcome they P Forte dos Reis Magos
put up signs proclaiming that Praia do Forte. Tel (84) 3211 3820.
simplified dances with a two-step Open 8am–4:30pm daily. &
rhythm, were “for all.” The label
Y Parque das Dunas
stuck to the musical style, though
Couples dancing to the lively music in common speech “for all” Av Alexandrino de Alencar s/n.
of forró
forr became forró. Tel (84) 3201 3985. Open 8am–6pm
Tue–Sun. & 8
6 Rota do Sol Beaches

Head south from Natal on the Rota do Sol (Route of the Sun),
for beaches and more beaches, stretching from the edge of the
city to the far southern border of the state. Variety is the key
feature of this golden stretch of coast. There are beaches with
small reefs and little surf, and others with strong and steady
waves, much loved by avid surfers. There are deserted beaches
surrounded by tall dunes, accessible only by dune buggy or
4WD, far from the hustle and bustle of even the smallest
fishing village. Other beaches, particularly Pipa, are full to
Mãe Luiza lighthouse north of
bursting with energetic young Brazilians. Ponta Negra
Praia do Pinto
NATAL
Praia Mãe
Luiza
Parque das
Dunas
304 Ponta Negra
Paramirim Pium Praia Pium
Praia do 1 Ponta Negra

63 Cotovelo Located within the city limits,
Praia de
2 Búzios 101
Pirangi do Norte Pirangi Ponta Negra is the favorite and
Búzios offers high do Norte best-known beach in Natal, lively
dunes and excellent Búzios during the day and night.
opportunities for
snorkeling. Lagoa
do Bonfim
São José de Praia da
Tabatinga
Mipibu
3 Praia da Tabatinga Praia
Nísia
Barra de Tabatinga has Floresta Camurupim
scenic high cliffs and Lagoa
Nísia Floresta
great surfing waves. Barreta
Dolphins can be spotted Senador Georgino
at high tide. Avelino
Lagoa Tibaú
Guaraíras do Sul
Arês
Praia do Madeiro
4 Barreta 101
5 Tibaú do Sul
Deserted and circled by Praia da Pipa This small fishing
dunes, Barreta is best 2
village offers high-
Praia do Amor
explored by buggy. end accom-
Goianinha Praia das Minas modations and a
Barra do Cunhaú deserted beach.
Vila Flor
Praia da Barra
do Cunhaú
269 Baía Formosa
62 Praia Baía
Formosa
Canguaretama
6 Praia da Pipa
The most popular spot on the coast, Praia do Cotia
the village of Pipa is known for its
nightlife and restaurants. 101
Praia do Sagi
7 Praia do Sagi
The wild beaches, located at the 0 km 6
southernmost point of Rio Grande do Sul,
0 miles 6
are all but deserted.

8 Maracajaú
Rio Grande do Norte. @ Open at low
tide only.
Maracajaú’s coral reefs offer

one of the best spots for
snorkeling along the whole of
Brazil’s north coast. The reefs lie
approximately 4 miles (7 km)
offshore. At low tide, the
receding ocean leaves the reefs
from just 3 to 9 ft (1 to 3 m)
underwater, and forms natural
pools, called parrachos, which
combine the beauty of the
tranquil water with a spec-
tacular array of marine life.
They are shallow enough for
Snorkeling in the coral reefs, Maracajaú snorkelers and swimmers to
observe dozens of species of
7 Genipabu is the perfect place to start. This colorful, tropical fish trapped
Rio Grande do Norte. * 5,000. k
area of 164-ft (50-m) tall shifting inside the reefs. The water is
Natal Airport. @ n Associação dos dunes is off-limits to all but crystal clear and warm round
Bugueiros do Rio Grande do Norte, licensed buggy drivers who the year, making it a popular
(84) 3225 2077. know their way around every destination for scuba divers and
hump and dip. Passengers have swimmers alike. Tour operators
The main reason to visit the option of requesting a ride offer scuba-diving trips, but the
Genipabu is to experience the “com ou sem emoção” (with or water is so shallow, it is hardly
magnificent dunes. This small without the thrills and heart worth the effort or expense.
town is located north of Natal, palpitations). Well worth The best way to reach
close to the edge of an requesting, the thrill-ride is Maracajaú is by a dune buggy,
impressive landscape of shifting an amazing roller coaster of departing from Natal (or
sands that pile up into high maneuvers up and down along Genipabu) and traveling
dunes and plunge down to the the slippery front faces of the north along the white, sandy
edge of the Atlantic Ocean. dunes, descending at almost beaches. Check the tide tables
Though it is possible to ride a 90-degree angles before to time the journey in order
camel through the dunes or zooming straight up another to arrive in Maracajaú at, or
sandboard down them, the best dune on the far side. a few hours before, low tide.
way to enjoy these enormous The best time of day to visit The large Mo-Noa Park,
ridges of sand is behind the roll the Parque das Dunas is in the replete with slides and swim-
bar of a dune buggy with an afternoon, to enjoy the lovely ming pools, en route to the
experienced driver at the wheel. golden sunset over the dunes coral reefs in Maracajaú, is an
The Parque Dunas de Genipabu after the ride. enjoyable stop for children.
Tourists enjoying a buggy ride on the white sand dunes in Genipabu

Sailboats, known as jangadas, on Tibaú beach, one of the beach-villages along Costa Branca
9 Costa Branca The largest village on this coast, interior. The main places of
Rio Grande do Norte. @
Areia Branca has around 20,000 interest in Mossoró are con-
n Catavento Turismo Fortaleza, residents and offers the best nected to a glorious moment
(85) 3433 6999. tourist facilities for those in history in 1924, when the
wanting to spend a few days townspeople fought off an
The Costa Branca lies in the exploring the region. Tibaú is attack by the legendary bandit
extreme northwest of Rio the last village in Rio Grande leader Lampião and his gang
Grande do Norte. Starting at do Norte, right on the of outlaws. The event is still
Porto do Mangue, it border with Ceará. Its commemorated every June
stretches across the beach is mostly used by 13 with great ceremony.
villages of Areia Branca residents of the inland city Mossoró is an ideal jumping-
and Grossos and ends at of Mossoró. Local artisans off point for visiting the Lajedo
Tibaú. The name “Costa use sand from the de Soledade, an archaeological
Branca” refers to both the colored dunes to make site. Its limestone rocks were
white dunes and the salt artistic and pretty formed more than 90 million
works found along this Sand design in designs inside small years ago. Tours begin at the
coast. The region has not glass bottle glass bottles. visitors’ center, at the Museu de
yet been discovered by Soledade. From here, visitors
mass tourism, and its beaches, can depart on a guided walk
mangroves, dunes, and lagoons 0 Mossoró featuring 10,000-year-old rock
are blissfully devoid of crowds. Rio Grande do Norte. * 225,000.
paintings, and impressive fossils
Praia do Rosado, just west of ~ @ n Rua Ruy Barbosa 282 containing the remains of
Porto do Mangue, is famous (84) 3315 4814. _ Batalha do extinct animals, including saber-
for its pinkish sand dunes. Mossoró (Jun). toothed tigers.
The red soil underneath the
shifting dunes mixes with the Located 34 miles (55 km) inland T Lajedo de Soledade
white sand of the beach giving from the coast, Mossoró is, in Tel (84) 3333 1017. Open 8am–5pm
the dunes an unusual and many ways, the archetypal Tue–Sun. & 8
distinctly soft, pink hue. sertão town of the northeastern ∑ lajedodesoledade.org.br
Repentistas
Repentista is a popular form of entertainment in the interior of the Northeast. Its singers engage
in a two-man musical duel, making their rhymes up on the spot, trying to score points off their
opponent. Singers sometimes accompany themselves with a tambourine or the melodious viola
nordestina, developed from the Portuguese seven-string
guitar. The singing duelists take turns singing out a stanza,
trying to win the favor of the audience by making fun of
their opponent, preferably with a clever bit of rhyme.
The adversary’s manhood, sexual prowess, and ancestry
are common topics, but politics and day-to-day events also
play into the mix. In big cities with significant nordestino
populations, such as São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, repentistas
make money on the downtown streets by creating
impromptu songs to entertain homesick migrants. Repentistas performing
q Canoa Quebrada
Ceará. * 65,300. @ from Fortaleza.
n Secretaría de Turismo, (88) 3446
2451. ∑ canoaviagens.com.br
In just over four decades,

Canoa Quebrada has trans
formed from a sleepy fishing
village to a popular hippy
hangout in the 1970s, and now
a mainstream beach resort.
According to a legend, the
name Canoa Quebrada,
meaning “Broken Canoe,”
originated with a Portuguese
skipper who wrecked his ship
close to shore and donated
the useless craft to local fisher
men. Never having seen such
a craft before, locals named it
a broken canoe.
The beaches of Canoa
Quebrada, featuring red cliffs,
fine sand, and offshore reefs,
attract many visitors today. The
village itself is a bustling place,
known for its cafés and Beach along the fishing village of Jericoacoara
restaurants, and for the bars
and clubs lining the main About 6 miles (10 km) e Jericoacoara
cobblestone street. It is also northwest is the small town Ceará. * 2,000. @ from Fortaleza.
famous for its lacework. Even at of Aracati. It is one of the few ∑ jericoacoara.com
the busiest times, however, it is historic towns in this part of
not difficult to get away from Northeast Brazil. An important The isolated village of
the crowds and find a spot on center for the 18thcentury Jericoacoara is a beach lover’s
one of the more deserted cattle industry, Aracati has paradise. Although no longer
beaches or high sand dunes several buildings dating back to the sleepy fishing community
surrounding Canoa Quebrada. this time. Most noteworthy is it once was, it preserves
Buggy tours are a popular way the Mercado Central (Central much of its original charm.
to get out of town. The tour to Market), dating back to the The village consists of five
Ponta Grossa, 18 miles (30 km) 1700s, still used as the town’s streets made of sand, and
southeast, travels along miles daily openair market on houses and apartments are
of empty beaches framed by Rua Pompeu. simple, even rustic. In 2002, the
high red sandstone cliffs. entire region was declared a
Other activities include kite national park, putting a com
surfing, riding, and sailing on
w Fortaleza plete halt to the construction
a jangada (sailboat). See pp246–7. of new buildings.
Red sandstone cliffs in and around the beaches of Canoa Quebrada

The spectacular Ubajara Cave in Parque Nacional de Ubajara
Surrounded by dunes and features the Ubajara Cave. inside are Pedra do Sino (Bell
lagoons, Jeri (as locals call it) is a The entrance to the cave can Stone), Salas da Rosa (Rose
place for those who like water, be reached either by cable Rooms), Sala do Cavalo (Horse
waves, and wind. From June to car (9am–2:30pm Tue–Sun) Room), and Sala dos Retratos
January, the winds pick up and or via a steep, marked trail (Portrait Room). The cave is also
kitesurfers, windsurfers, and through the forest. The home to 14 different types of bat.
sailors from around the world 3,937-ft- (1,200-m-) long cave The elevation gain is just over
flock to Jeri. is filled with stalactites and 1,640 ft (500 m), and the trail
Dune buggies are used to stalagmites, the work of several leading up to the cave, though
explore the surrounding patient centuries of erosion rather strenuous, offers some
beaches and dunes and visit and calcium deposition. spectacular views of the Serra
the various lagoons. The most Fifteen chambers totaling da Ipiapaba and several
beautiful are Lagoa Azul and 3,674 ft (1,120 m) have been waterfalls and beautiful natural
Lagoa do Paraíso, located mapped, of which 1,377 ft pools. The hike takes about two
about 12 miles (20 km) east of (420 m) are open to visitors. hours, one-way. There are also
the village. Jeri’s postcard view Eight galleries are lit up to display many local guides available
is that of Pedra Furada, a basalt some of the amazing formations here to show visitors around
outcrop, on the edge of the sea that have taken shape inside the the park’s eco trails, caves,
with a 13-ft (4-m) hole in the cave. The main formations seen and waterfalls.
middle. It sits on the beach at
Praia Malhada, about 2 miles
(3 km) east, a 15-minute walk Buggies
from the village. The red rock Dune buggies are found everywhere on Brazil’s northeastern coast.
glows in the late afternoon light Essentially a Volkswagen Beetle chassis with a fiberglass body and
and from June to September, soft, fat tires, the Brazilian dune buggy is the perfect vehicle for
the aperture lines up perfectly exploring the endless beaches and towering sand dunes that
with the tropical setting sun. characterize Northeast Brazil.
Another beautiful spot is Duna Popular places to buggy here are Genipabu (see p242),
do Pôr do Sol (Sunset Dune). just north of Natal, and Cumbuco and Canoa Quebrada,
respectively north and south of Fortaleza. They all feature
towering mountains of sand, and dune-buggy drivers are
r Parque Nacional trained to make the most of them.
de Ubajara High-speed runs up, down, and
along the sheer, steep face of
Ceará. @ from Fortaleza. n sand dunes are among the
Secretaría de Turismo, (88) 3634 2365; most hair-raising maneuvers
Park Headquarters, (88) 3634 1388. one can expect from
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 such a tour.
Multiday buggy
Located almost exactly halfway expeditions include
between Fortaleza and Teresina, tours from Natal to
the Parque Nacional de Ubajara Fortaleza – nearly
is the smallest national park 311 miles (500 km)
in Brazil. Situated close to the of untouched sand. Dune buggy in Canoa Quebrada
small town of Ubajara, the park
w Fortaleza E Museu do Ceará

Rua São Paulo 51. Tel (85) 3101 2609.
With pretty urban beaches, a pleasant year-round climate, Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8
and a constant cooling breeze coming off the ocean, The museum possesses a vast
Fortaleza has an appealing resort-like atmosphere. Founded archive of things relating to the
history of Ceará – coins, medals,
in the early 1500s, Fortaleza remained a small town until paintings, furniture, indigenous
after Brazilian independence in 1822, then rapidly developed artifacts, folk art, and more.
into one of Brazil’s largest ports, exporting vast amounts Its most prized exhibit is the
of cotton to England in particular. There is a small historic dagger belonging to notorious
section with a 17th-century fort near the old port, now outlaw Lampião (see p217).
renovated as a nightlife area called Praia de Iracema, but
E Centro Cultural Dragão
beyond that Fortaleza has a modern feel, with apartment do Mar
high-rises, beach boulevards, and outdoor cafés. Rua Dragão do Mar 81, Iracema. Tel (85)
3488 8600. Open 8am–10pm Mon–Fri,
8am–11pm Sat & Sun. & for movies
& plays. ∑ dragaodomar.org.br
Fortaleza’s cultural center is a
striking white building with a
circular design. It houses the
Museum of Contemporary Art,
a history and anthropology
museum, a planetarium, and
a cinema and theater venue.
( Mercado Central
Rua Maestro Alberto Nepomuceno 199.
Brightly painted colonial buildings lining the streets Tel (85) 3454 8586. Open 8am–6pm
Mon–Fri, 8am–4pm Sat, 8am–1pm Sun.
F Teatro José de Alencar ( Centro de Turismo 7 ∑ mercadocentraldefortaleza.
Praça José de Alencar s/n. Tel (85) 3101 Rua Senador Pompeu 350. Tel (85) com.br
2566. Open 9am–noon, 2–5pm Tue– 3101 5508. Open 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, Fortaleza’s central market is the
Sun & 8 hourly. 7 8am–4pm Sat, 8am–noon Sun. 7 cheapest place in town for fine
Named after one of Brazil’s This formerly grim 19th-century leatherwork, lace, or textiles. The
famous novelists, prison has been market is also an excellent place
the Teatro José de transformed into a to sample local ice cream made
Alencar was built in bustling market, from regional fruits.
1908. The theater’s with a dif
different
high-Victorian cast- shop in each of the Fortaleza
iron structure was old jail cells. The
1 Teatro José de Alencar
imported straight market specializes
2 Centro de Turismo
from Glasgow. Ironwork, Teatro José de in local handicrafts,
Additional elements, Alencar including fine lace, 3 Museu do Ceará
such as the stained- leather, and figurines. 4 Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar
glass windows and interior The market is a good place 5 Mercado Central
furnishings, were done in to stock up on top-quality 6 Praia de Iracema
the Art Nouveau style. cashew nuts. 7 Praia de Meireles
8 Praia do Futuro
RU A D OS 9 Praia de Cumbuco
TA BA J
Praia de Cumbuco A RAS
Praia de
21 miles (33 km) Iracema
AV A L M I R A N T E B A RROS O
Centro de Turismo
Estação Centro Cultural
Ferroviária Dragão do Mar
PRAÇA
CASTRO AV M O N S E N H O R TA B O S AV Praia de
A PRE
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CARRIERO Mercado Central H N K Meireles
CENTRO PRAÇA
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MUNICIPAL RU E N T E B E N É V O LO
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F O R TA L E Z A  247
The Story of Iracema
Written by José de Alencar in 1865, Practical Information
the story of Iracema tells of the love that Ceará. * 2,400,000. n Casa do
a Tabajara princess bore for Martim, a Turista, Av Beira Mar at Rua Frei
white Portuguese settler. Iracema uses Mansueto, (85) 3105 2670.
magic to make Martim fall in love with ( daily craft market at Meireles
her, and is ostracized by her community. beach. _ Fortal (Jul), Regata
de Jangadas (Jul), Semana do
Away from her people, she loses her
Folclore (Aug).
magical powers and her lover. A statue
∑ fortaleza.ce.gov.br/turismo
of Iracema on Meireles beach is located
Statue of Iracema waiting for where, according to legend, she stood Transport
her lover awaiting the return of her beloved. k 4 miles (6 km) S of town.
@ (85) 3235 0688.
L Praia de Iracema L Praia de Meireles

Just east of the city center lies The city’s prettiest urban beach sipping on fresh cashew juice.
the Praia de Iracema. Though is lined with thick groves of Home to what has become
called a beach, it is actually the coconut palms and waterside the city’s prime residential
very urban former port, now cafés, although the water is not and hotel neighborhood in
renovated and transformed considered good for swimming. Fortaleza, Meireles’ pedestrian
into the city’s most popular Meireles is a great place for boulevard, running beside the
nightlife and restaurant area. strolling, shopping, sunbathing, beach, becomes a night market
The centerpiece of the area is or people-watching while every evening.
a long ocean pier called Ponte
dos Ingleses (Englishman’s Pier), L Praia do Futuro
first built in 1920, and modeled Praia do Futuro is one
on the piers of Brighton. Many of the best beaches
restaurants occupy other in the city for
original turn-of-the-19th- swimming, and a
century buildings in the area. bustling nightlife
Locally famous nightlife spots destination in its
include Piratas (open Mondays), own right. The 7-mile-
and Lupus Bier, known for its (11-km-) long beach
Wednesday evening folklore southeast of the
and variety show. Visitors at a waterside café, Praia de Meireles center is lined with
restaurants and
0 meters 500
beach shacks that serve local
cuisine. There are several discos
0 yards 500
on the beach that are popular on
R
weekends. On Thursday nights,
RUA J
Fortalezans head to Barraca
A
BR
O
RUA
IZM
Chico do Caranguejo to feast on

STR
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fresh crab and listen to popular

CA
A
RUA
OS
live forró (see p240) music.

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major kitesurfing destination.
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Lagoa do Parnamirim, just south

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of Cumbuco, is surrounded by
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“ski-bunda” (bum-skiing), where

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skiers slide on wooden boards

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down a dune into the lagoon.

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MO
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jangadas, or single-sail rafts.

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RV

Piauí & Maranhão

although part of the Northeast, Piauí and Maranhão
are different from the rest of the region culturally and
geographically. Both states have violent histories. Piauí was
the site of many skirmishes between the indigenous population
and cattle herders, and Maranhão was forcibly settled in 1612 by
the French. Today, the area is abundant in natural and cultural riches.
Unlike its southern neighbors, Piauí was neglect of the Maranhão coast, the
settled by ranchers on horseback pushing French, in 1612, landed a sizable force
northwards from the sugar plantations and founded São Luís, named in honor
of Bahia in the late 1700s. of King Louis XIII. Portuguese forces laid
Largely visited in transit, Piauí is sparsely siege for four years to drive the new
populated and possibly the poorest state French colony out.
in Brazil. The economy here is greatly Maranhão’s golden age came in the
dependent on agriculture and livestock. 19th century, with a rich agricultural
The only significant industry revolves export economy based on cotton
around the carnaúba palm, which yields and sugar. Ports such as São Luís and
a wax that is an important ingredient of Alcântara grew wealthy. When slavery
shellac. However, Piauí boasts a few was abolished in 1888, Maranhão’s sugar
fascinating natural attractions. The state and cotton industries collapsed, causing
capital, Teresina, located more than 186 an economic slump that lasted for most
miles (300 km) inland, is the only capital in of the 20th century.
Northeast Brazil which is not on the ocean, Maranhão is today an exciting
and has some interesting sights. destination, both in terms of natural
For many years after they first came to and cultural treasures. The state’s main
Brazil, the Portuguese showed little interest festival, Bumba-meu-boi, celebrates
in the area that now forms Maranhão. the indigenous, Portuguese, and
Taking advantage of the Portuguese African cultures.
Mesmerizing sand dunes of Lençóis Maranhenses in Maranhão

Beautifully decorated ceiling of the Igreja da Sé, São Luis
250  nOrTheaST brazIL
Exploring Piauí & Maranhão

Most of Piauí’s attractions are a long way from the coast. The Serra
da Capivara is one of the largest archaeological sites in the world,
containing more than 30,000 prehistoric rock paintings. The only
important destination on Piauí’s tiny 41-mile (66-km) coastline is
the town of Parnaíba. It sits at the edge of the Delta do Parnaíba,
one of the largest deep-water river deltas in the world, and now an
ecotourism destination. Most of the delta itself lies in Maranhão.
Its capital, São Luís, rivals Salvador for its collection of
Carutapera
restored colonial homes and heritage buildings. Outside
of São Luís, the biggest draw is a spectacular region of Turiaçu
Belém
stark beauty in the form of coastal sand dunes known Cururupu
Camiranga
as Lençóis Maranhenses.
Santa ALCÂNTARA
Helena
REENTRÂNCIAS Pinheiro SÃO
MARANHENSES
Sights at a Glance LUÍS
São Bento
u
Towns & Cities pi
mb
Rosário
ru
1 Teresina Viana
Gu
ca
Arari Itapicuru
5 São Luís pp256–8
ra
Mirim
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6 Alcântara Santa Inês Pirapemas

Lago
do
Belém Santa Luzia Açu I

National Parks & Areas of ré
ta
Coroatá
r ra
da
pi
Natural Beauty Pin
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Lago da Pedra Bacabal
ru
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2 Parque Nacional de Sete Codó

Arame
Cidades Pedreiras
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3 Parque Nacional de Serra da a
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Açailândia
aj
tiu
Presidente
Gr
Capivara pp252–3
Zi
4 Delta do Parnaíba & Parque

M A R A N H Ã O Dutra
Imperatriz Amarante do
Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhão Barra
im
r Buriti
Maranhenses pp254–5 Me a do Corda Bravo
Tocan
Grajaú
Montes Colinas
7 Reentrâncias Maranhenses Altos
tins
as
rcat
Porto Franco Alpe
Pastos Bons
Goiãnia Santo
Antônio Açude Boa
Esperança
Key BeneditoLeite
Uruçuí
Major road
Carolina Riachão Balsas
Minor road Bertolinía
Rio das Balsas
ba
Railroad
naí
State border Eliseu Martins

eto
Par
ei a
Uruçui Pr
Brejo da
rg
Porta
Gu
Cristino
Castro
Alto Santa
Parnaíba Filomena Bom
Jesus
Parnaibinha
Redenção
Gilbués
Curimata
Corrente
Brasília
Pedra do Elefante at the Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades

piauÍ & maranhÃo  251
Pristine Caburé beach at Lençóis Maranhenses
Primeira DELTA DO PARNAÍBA & Getting Around

Cruz
PARQUE NACIONAL DOS The São Luís airport in Maranhão has
LENÇÓIS MARANHENSES international flights, and Piauí’s capital city
Barreirinhas
Araiosos Parnaíba Teresina can be reached by flights en route to
ba
Urbano
São Luís. There are buses linking almost every
aí
Santos n
a r
São Bernardo P Cocal town in this region, but roads are in very poor
Luzilândia Fortaleza condition. It is also possible to rent a car. The
Chapadinha Piracuruca inland attractions of Piauí are far from Teresina,
Batalha PARQUE NACIONAL and from each other, so travel well equipped
Coelho DE SETE CIDADES with plenty of gas, water, and supplies.
Neto Miguel Piripiri
Alves Pedroll Most of Maranhão’s highlights are on the
José de coast. The Lençóis Maranhenses are best
Caxias Freitas
Campo Maior accessed from Barreirinhas, located just on the
edge of the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park.
Timon TERESINA Castelo From São Luís, it is a 45-minute flight in a single-
do Piaui
engine plane, or a four-hour drive. Once there,
Parnarama São Miguel most excursions are by boat or in a 4WD, as
do Tapuio
Palmeirais
there are no paved roads in the region.
Sa m
Amarante b it o
Barão de Fortaleza
Grajaú Ca Valença
nin do Piauí
Floriano dé
Jerumenha Fronteiras
Oeiras Picos
Itaueira
Canind
São José
Ita
do Peixe Jaicós
im
Recife
é
Fi d
Flores Costa
a lg
Simplício
P I A U Í
o
Mendes
Paulistana
Canto do São João
Buriti do Piauí
PARQUE NACIONAL DE
SERRA DA CAPIVARA
São Raimundo
Nonato
Brasília
0 kilometers 100
0 miles 100
Colonial-style houses and Ponte José Sarney, São Luís

Emperor Dom was modeled on an ancient

Pedro II. Teresina Egyptian temple. The former
has the dubious state legislature is now home to
honor of being the Museu do Piauí. Its small
one of Brazil’s collection provides a good
hottest cities, overview of regional history,
although Rio including both pre-historic
Parnaíba and Rio artifacts and folk art.
Poty, as well as
several large, E Museu do Piauí
tree-shaded Praça Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca,
squares scattered Centro. Tel (86) 3221 6027.
throughout Open 8am–5pm Tue–Fri, 8am–noon
Teresina, Sat & Sun.
moderate the
E Nossa Senhora do Amparo
worst of the city’s
Praça Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca
scorching heat.
s/n, Centro. Open daily.
Most historic
buildings date
back only to the Environs
end of the 19th Easily reached by bus, the
Church exterior, Nossa Senhora do Amparo century. One Parque Ambiental Encontro
of the oldest dos Rios is located just north
1 Teresina buildings is the cathedral, of Teresina, where the Poty
Nossa Senhora do Amparo. and Parnaíba rivers join up. This
Piauí. * 815,000. ~ @
n Piemtur, (86) 3215 9426 or 3215 Construction was started in pleasant park offers walking
7476. ∑ teresina.pi.gov.br 1851 but completed only trails, fishing spots, gardens, two
in 1952. More modern, but also lookouts, a floating restaurant,
Founded in 1852, Teresina was interesting, is the Palácio Karnak, a store with regionally made
named in honor of the Empress Piauí’s new state legislature. crafts and a statue of Crispim,
Teresa Cristina, wife of Brazilian Built in 1926, the palace’s façade the Bowl Head.
3Parque Nacional de Serra

da Capivara
Piauí’s most compelling park is the Serra da
Capivara, located in the far south of the state.
GURGUIE
Teresina
The park’s impressive canyons, plateaux, and
rock formations also form one of Brazil’s most
da
lin
important prehistoric sites, one that was

aO
M JESUS DA
designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in

Nov
Andorinhas
1991. Over 30,000 rock paintings have been Every evening, thousands of
Riacho
discovered within the park. The paintings swifts (andorinhas) perform

amazing aerial acrobatics
portray aspects of prehistoric life such as before retiring to a nearby
the hunt, dances, and other rituals.
SERRA BO
cave to spend the night.

DO
A
RR
SE
Key
Major road
Other road
Portaria
Minor road Terra
Vermelha
Rock Painting Trail Baixão das
Andorinhas
Scientists estimate that many of these rock Park boundary
paintings were created between 6,000 and 12,000
Petrolina
years ago. The oldest drawings may date as far back
as 29,000 years.
PIAUÍ & MARANHÃO  253
heat, and erosion, the rocks some 6,000 years old. The most
resemble animals, people, impressive painting, Pedra de
mythological beings, and Inscrição (Inscribed Rock), said
even man-made structures. to be marked with cryptic
Among the shapes are Mapa Indian runes, can be seen at
do Brasil, a backward-facing Quinta Cidade (Fifth City). Other
map of Brazil, and Biblioteca formations include Pedra do
(Library), both in Quarta Cidade Elefante (Elephant Rock) at
(Fourth City). Segundo Cidade, Sexta Cidade (Sixth City), and
the second of the seven “cities”, lookout points such as the
has a 147-ft- (45-m-) tall look- Arco de Triunfo (Triumphal
out with views out over five Arch), a 59-ft- (18-m-) tall
of the cities of stone. There arch-shaped rock, lying
Trails leading up to rock formations at are also more than 2,000 between Quarta Cidade
Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades prehistoric rock paintings, and Quinta Cidade.
2 Parque Nacional
Crispim, the Bowl Head
de Sete Cidades
A popular Piauí legend tells the story
Maranhão. @ from Teresina. of Crispim, a fisherman who lived by
n Ibama Office, Centro de Visitantes, the banks of the Rio Parnaíba. He came
(86) 3343 1342. Open 8am–5pm daily. home one day frustrated after not
& ® Parque Hotel Sete Cidades, having caught any fish. Outraged with
(86) 3276 2222. the meager lunch of beef-bone soup,
The name Sete Cidades (Seven Crispim took up a large bone and
Cities) refers to seven distinct beat his mother. As she lay dying, she Rio Parnaíba, reputedly haunted
cursed him, condemning him to live
and unusual rock formations, by Crispim
in the river as a bowl-headed monster.
spread out in the park along
The curse would be lifted when he devoured seven virgins named
7 miles (12 km) of trails. Only Maria. Locals still tell of spotting Crispim in the river, looking for
the first six are accessible to the virgins to eat.
public. Sculpted by rain, wind,
0 km 10 Caldeirão dos VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Rodrigues, a walk
0 miles 6
through Baixão da Practical Information
Pedra Furada, leads to Coronel José Dias, Piauí.
archaeological sites n Museu de Homem Americano,
with rock paintings. Bairro Campestre, São Raimundo
Nonato, (89) 3582 1612. Open
de 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Best time to
an visit is Mar–Jun. & valid for three
Gr Desfiladeiro da
rra days. 8 tour groups up to a
Se Capivara is a
São João 2-mile- (4-km-) maximum of 10 people.
do Piauí ® Hotel Serra da Capivara,
O
long trail, leading

NG
to many rock- Santa Luiza, (89) 3582 1389.

∑ fumdham.org.br
CO
painting sites.
Transport
@ from Teresina to São
Raimundo Nonato, then taxi.
Caldeirão dos
Rodrigues
Baixão da
Pedra Furada
Coronel
Baixão José Dias Baixão do Sítio Meio
do Sítio is the site where a
Meio
pottery shard nearly Baixão da Pedra Furada
São Raimundo 9,000 years old was The trail leading to the large unusual-shaped rock,
Nonato found. It is the oldest known as Pedra Furada (Pierced Rock), leads to 10
in the Americas. different archaeological sites.

4Delta do Parnaíba & Parque Nacional

dos Lençóis Maranhenses
The Delta do Parnaíba stretches roughly from the Piauí border
some 56 miles (90 km) farther up the coast in Maranhão,
where the Rio Parnaíba runs into the sea. Shaped like a hand,
the river breaks into five fingers, meandering through some
83 islands. Small villages thrive on sea salt, cashews, and
crabs. Tourism is still in its infancy. Straddling Piauí and
Maranhão, the Parque Nacional Lençóis Maranhenses offers
over 600 sq miles (1,555 sq km) of spectacular white sand
dunes created by strong coastal winds. From May to August,
rain collects in the basins between dunes, forming countless
. Queimada dos Britos
crystal-clear freshwater lagoons. In June, when the water Deep inside the park is an oasis,
levels are at their highest, the Lençóis dunes look like an array surrounded by sand dunes. It can
of white stripes, interspersed with sparkling ribbons of blue, be visited by 4WD from Sucuruju.
turquoise, and green.
Atla
ntic
Ocea
n
Lagoa
Travosa
Lagoa de
Queimada
. Scarlet Ibis Santo Amaro
dos Britos
Born gray, these birds obtain their
distinct red color from eating tiny
crustaceans found in tide flats in the Santo Amaro
estuary of the Rio Preguiças. do Maranhão
Provoado de
Primeira Sucuruju
A le g re
Cruz
Lagoa de Santo Amaro

This beautiful clear-water lake
near the tiny village of Santa
Amaro do Maranhão sits isolated
amid sand dunes.
Key
Major road
Minor road
Trail
Park boundary
KEY
1 Baixa Grande oasis can be . Lençóis

reached by hiking across the dunes. On foot, visitors can only access a small portion of the park.
2 Barreirinhas is a small town, and To appreciate the size and scale of the dunes, it is worth taking
the main access point to the park. a sightseeing flight from São Luís. The views of the large dunes
and lagoons are breathtaking.
The Versatile Buriti Palm Tree
The delta area’s dense vegetation is dominated Practical Information
by the multipurpose buriti palm tree. The fruit Piauí/Maranhão. n Av Presidente
can be eaten or used for wine, the trunk is Getúlio Vargas 21, Parnaíba,
used for house poles, while the fronds make (86) 3322 2072; Ecodunas, Rua
thatch roofs and baskets. Buriti fiber is crucial Inácio Lins 164, Barreirinhas,
for the strong but limber pouch used to (11) 4654 1200. 8 Giltur: Rua
squeeze the poison from manioc root. The Montanha Russa 22, São Luís.
twigs make good placemats, the seeds can Tel (98) 3231 7065
be fashioned into jewelry, and the bark Buriti palm tree with its ® Barreirinhas.
can be spun into twine. hanging fruit ∑ parquelencois.com.br
Transport
~ @ from Teresina to Delta do
Parnaíba & Lençóis Maranhenses.
g from Lençóis Maranhenses to
Barreirinhas, then to Atins.
Atins
Sitting on a sandpit a short distance
from the Atlantic Ocean, this tiny
settlement is a good starting point for
reaching the northeastern part of the
Lençóis Maranhenses by ferry.
0 km 5
0 miles 5
Caburé
Atins
Mandacaru Praia
Pequenos Baía Delta do
Lençóis Tutóia Parnaíba
Tutóia
Paulino
Neves
s
ça
ui
eg
Pr
São Luís
Pequenos Lençóis
This small desert of
dunes rises out of Rio
Preguiças. Ropes assist
in hiking to the Boi hill.
Delta do Parnaíba
Formed where the Rio Parnaíba meets
the Atlantic Ocean, the Parnaíba delta,
comprising 83 islands with immense
beaches, is one of the richest habitats
for birdlife in the Northeast.
5 Street-by-Street: São Luís

One of Brazil’s finest examples of Portuguese colonial
architecture, São Luís was, ironically, founded by the French
in 1612, and later taken over by Dutch invaders. In 1644, the
city was finally settled under Portuguese rule, serving as
the export point for sugar and cotton. Expensive houses and
buildings covered with brightly colored Portuguese tiles were
built in the city’s urban center. By the late 1800s, with slavery
at an end, São Luís went into a decline. At the end of the
1970s, the state government began to invest in preserving
the city’s historic center, and in 1997, the historical core of São A row of colorful houses along one of the
Luís was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. streets in São Luís
BE
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. Palácio dos Leões

Built in 1766 on the site of the original
RAM
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French Fort St. Louis, the Palácio dos A
RU
AR
Leões is now home to the Maranhão

state government.
Museu de Arte
Visuais is covered
in elaborate
Beco Catarina Mina
Portuguese tiles.
This picturesque 18th-century alley
connects the lower-lying streets of the
historic center with Avenida Dom Pedro II.
Casa do Maranhão
The former 19th-century customs building
now houses a fine collection of Bumba-
meu-boi folklore. Guides walk visitors
through the colorful exhibits.
SÃO LUÍS  257
Igreja da Sé VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The cathedral little resembles the
original 1699 structure. Extensive Practical Information
renovations were carried out in Maranhão. n SETUR, Rua da
1922, including the addition of a Palma 53, São Luís. Tel (98) 3212
Neo-Classical façade, giving the 6210. Open 8am–6pm daily.
cathedral its imposing look. ∑ saoluis.ma.gov.br/setur
Casa das Tulhas: Rua da
Estrela 401. Palácio dos Leôes:
Av Dom Pedro II. Open 2–
5:30pm Wed–Fri, 3–5:30pm
0 meters
Sat & Sun & 8
100
0 yards 100
Praça Benedito Lete is

framed by historic, beautifully
tiled houses. The statue in the
center of the square is of
former senator and state
governor, Benedito Leite.
É . Casa das Tulhas

AR
AZ Regional delicacies, such as cashew nuts and
N
dried shrimp, are on sale in the food stalls of
this 19th-century market building.
RU
Rua de Estrela is one

A
of the liveliest streets in

28
the historic center of

D
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São Luís.
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PR . Centro de Cultura Popular

A This center exhibits costumes,
D
CO artifacts, and photographs of the
Key BE Festa do Divino, one of
Maranhão’s most popular
Suggested route
religious festivals.
Marcos, Praia do Calhau, Calhau,

and Olho d’Agua. Calhau,
located 6 miles (10 km) from
São Luís, is considered by many
to be one of the nicest beaches
around the city. Many busy
kiosks and restaurants line the
beachside boulevard. The quiet
far end of the beach, where the
water is calm and restaurants
fewer, is known as Caolho.
E Cafua das Mercês

Jacinto Maia 54. Open 9am–6pm
Mon–Fri.
José Sarney Bridge connecting the historic district to São Francisco, São Luís E Casa do Maranhão
Rua do Trapiche s/n. Tel (98) 3218
Exploring São Luís The José Sarney Bridge leads 9954. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat,
The rich and diverse historical from the Centro Histórico into 9am–1pm Sun. 8
center of São Luís makes it the newer parts of the city. E Centro de Cultura Popular
ideal for touring on foot. This Across the bridge lies São Rua do Giz 221. Tel (98) 3218 9926.
is the oldest part of the city, Francisco, the city’s small central Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm
known interchangeably as business district. Just beyond Sun. 8
the Praia Grande, the São Francisco, there is a large
Reviver, and the Centro freshwater lake, the Lagoa
Histórico. All the city’s de Jansen, circled by a 6 Alcântara
museums and beautifully boardwalk with a number of Maranhão. * 21,000. g from São
preserved historic sites bars and restaurants. Much Luís. n Casa Municipal de Turismo,
are located here. calmer than the Centro (98) 3337 1140. _ Festa do Divino
The Casa do Histórico, it is a very Espírito Santo (May).
Maranhão is one of the popular place to stroll in
city’s most interesting the evenings. São Luís is Just across from São Luís,
museums, offering two blessed with a string of Alcântara lies on the other side
floors of colorful excellent beaches, all of the Baía de São Marcos.
exhibits that elaborately Cazumba figure, Casa of which can be easily The city was founded by the
explain the Festa do do Maranhão accessed by bus from Portuguese in the 1640s, and
Bumba-meu-boi. the Terminal de used as a temporary capital and
The Centro de Cultura Popular Integração in the city center. base during the campaign to
(also known as the Casa da Festa) Farther south, beyond the drive the Dutch away from São
is dedicated to showcasing the Lagoa de Jansen, the popular Luís. Alcântara reached its zenith
traditions and customs of the beaches are Ponta d’Areia, São in the 19th century as the
Festa do Divino Espírito Santo.
The highlights of the museum
are the poster-size photographs Bumba-meu-boi
of the actual celebrations, A unique folklore event endemic to Northeast Brazil, the Festa
including some compelling do Bumba-meu-boi revolves around a legendary folktale about
black-and-white images of the the life, death, and resurrection of a magical Brazilian bull. Over the
elderly women who once served centuries, the celebration has grown
as festival queens. into a huge carnivalesque festival,
The building that once housed with different neighborhood groups
the city slave market is now competing to put on the best
home to the Cafua das Mercês, re-enactment of the story. In São Luís
also known as the Museu do alone, more than 100 groups take to
Negro. This small museum the streets. A papier-mâché bull is
contains numerous artifacts created each year and displayed in
from the slave era, including raucous parades, where participants
musical instruments and tribal take on the roles of medicine men,
artwork, and sinister tools of the Indians, peasants, and cowboys.
slave trade, such as shackles and The largest celebrations take place
instruments of torture. One of in the second half of June. The
the more poignant monuments music is upbeat and lively, with
is the Pelourinho, or the different groups using different A colorful celebration of the
whipping post, on display in the rhythms and instruments. Bumba-meu-boi festival
museum’s central courtyard.
Pillory, restored mansions, and ruin of a church in Alcântara
regional center for the 7 Reentrâncias sea turtles and manatees. Many
surrounding sugar and cotton Maranhenses species of fish and crustaceans
plantations. It was the place are also found in the Reentrâncias.
where wealthy slave-owning Maranhão. @ from São Luís to The region is geographically
aristocrats built their splendid Cururupu. g from Cururupu. diverse and consists of a
n Setur, Rua da Palma 53, São Luis,
city mansions. When slavery complex riverine system of
(98) 3212 6210. 8 Maramazon,
was abolished in 1888, the extensive bays, coves, and
(98) 3235 3994. ∑ maramazon.com
local economy crashed, the rugged coastline covered mainly
white upper class departed, One of the world’s largest by mangrove forest. Many low-
and many of the fine mansions wetlands, the Reentrâncias lying islands are also found here.
stood abandoned. Maranhenses is also one of In order to protect the flora
Appreciation of Alcântara’s Maranhão’s more off-the- and fauna of this region, the
heritage value began as early as beaten-track natural attractions. Reentrâncias Maranhenses was
the 1950s, but restoration has The small town of Cururupu to designated an Area de Proteção
been slow and quite a few of its the north of São Luís offers the Ambiental (Area of Environmental
churches and mansions remain best access to the Reentrâncias Protection) and was also made a
as ruins, giving the city its own Maranhenses, with boats Ramsar site (a wetland site listed
charm. These ruins are now the departing regularly. under the Convention on
town’s main tourist attractions. Spread over an area of Wetlands of International
Day-trippers from São Luís come 10,350 sq miles (26,800 sq km), Importance) in 1993.
here to stroll the quiet the Reentrâncias Maranhenses One of the more popular
cobblestoned streets, peer forms an important habitat for destinations here is the Ilha
among the ruins, and admire the shorebirds such as scarlet ibis, dos Lençóis, to the northeast
often brightly tiled mansions of spoonbills, whimbrels, egrets, of Cururupu. The island’s
this former colonial capital. willets, ruddy turnstones, and geography somewhat
The Brazilian Heritage black-bellied plovers, as well as resembles the Lençóis
Institute, Iphan, has restored an array of marine life, including Maranhenses (see pp254–5),
several of the old mansions with its endless landscapes of
as museums. The best is the dunes and lagoons.
Casa Histórica do Iphan, A small community of about
featuring period furniture and 300 people live on Ilha dos
glassware. Informative wall Lençois and still practice
plaques and well-trained subsistence fishing. Some of
guides make getting around them are descendants of the
easy in the museum. Filhos da Lua (Sons of the
Another attraction to Moon), an albino community
Alcântara is the Festa do Divino that settled here at the
Espírito Santo, a vibrant religious beginning of the 20th century.
festival held in May every year. The isolation and flooding was
harsh on the residents and not
E Casa Histórica do Iphan many survived. Some of the
Praça de Matriz s/n. Open 9am–5pm Scarlet ibis, one of the shorebirds found in fishermen work as local tour
Tue–Sun. & Reentrâncias Maranhenses guides for a small fee.
northern
Brazil
Introducing Northern Brazil 262–267

Pará & Amapá 268–279
Amazonas, Roraima,
Acre & Rondônia 280–293
Introducing Northern Brazil

The six states of Pará, Amapá, Amazonas, Roraima,
Acre, and Rondônia cover almost half of Brazil. Northern Brazil NORTHERN
was relatively quiet until the rubber boom in the late 19th BRAZIL
century. With expansive savannas to the north, and a rich

diversity of flora and fauna in the east, today the region’s BRAZIL
economy is sustained by traditional forest products. Belém,

Manaus, Santarém, Rio Branco, and Porto Velho, cities created
by the rubber industry, are growing fast, connecting Amazônia
to the outside world.
Boa Vista’s Monte

Roraima (see p292),
with its massive uplifted
plateau, inspired Sir
Arthur Conan Doyle’s
book The Lost World.
Boa Vista
Rio Branco
(see p292) was
founded during
the rubber boom.
Today, it is better
known for its
sustainable
rubber-tapping azon
Am
forest reserves.
AMAZONAS, RORAIMA,
ACRE & RONDÔNIA
(See pp281–93)
Tabatinga
Humaitá
Cruzeiro
do Sul
Porto Velho
Rio Branco
Ji-Paraná
Madeira-Mamoré Museu
Ferroviário (see p293), in Porto
Velho, houses several impressive
0 km 200
locomotive steam engines,
antique carriages, and other 0 miles 200
railway paraphernalia.
Ribeirinhos (“river people”) boating down the Picanco River, Amazonian Estuary
INTRODUCING NORTHERN BRAZIL  263
The river scenery of Santarém (see p278), known for its

serene beauty, is the primary reason for visiting this popular
Amazon port town.
Ilha de Marajó (see p274) is

the world’s largest inland river
island. Its eastern half is
savanna dotted with small
woodland copses.
The old port of Belém
(see pp272–3) possesses more character
than any other sector of the city.
Attractive fishing boats bob up and
down in the harbor, with the large old
white fort on one side and the colorful
Ver o Peso market on the other.
Macapá
Salinópolis
zon
Óbidos Ama Belém
Santarém
Manaus
PARÁ & AMAPÁ

(See pp268–79)
Marabá The Amazon river
São Martinho
(see pp288–91), known as Rio
Solimões in its upper reaches,
was first identified by Vicente
Yáñez Pinzón. Its lower reaches
are called Rio Negro.
Teatro Amazonas (see pp286–7), in

Manaus, exudes the opulence of its
rubber-boom architects. It took the finest
of materials and the most skilled of
craftsmen to re-create an Italian
Renaissance-style edifice, with a steel
structure from Scotland and marble
imported from Italy.
The Amazon Ecosystem Ecological Concern

Brazil has over 1.3 million sq miles (3.5 million sq km) of An estimated 20 percent of the
rainforest, the largest in the world. This massive river Amazon rainforest has been cut
system contains a fifth of the world’s fresh running water down since the 1970s and an
additional 20 percent may be
at any moment. The Amazon is home to an incredible lost in the next two decades.
variety of plant, bird, fish and insect species. From the air, Stringent measures being
its magnificent canopy hides a variety of ecosystems, many taken to save this ecological
with dramatic seasonal changes. Between December and treasure include expansion of
protected areas and sustainable
April, visitors explore the flooded forest swamps and use of forest resources.
creeks that offer access to the fascinating flora and fauna.
Rubber trees (Hevea brasiliensis) growing on

riverbanks are the source of valuable latex, which
is later transformed into rubber.
The ceiba tree (Ceiba pentandra), with elegant

buttress roots that surround the trunk’s base,
is the biggest tree in the Amazon, with an
average height of 120 ft (37 m).
Walking palms appear to migrate

across the forest floor due to their
characteristic stilt roots loosely
attached to the ground.
Flowering Bromeliads are

epiphytes that gather water and
nutrients from raindrops on
leaves as well as from dew.
Fauna
One of the world’s most diverse ecosystems, the
Amazon harbors an infinite variety of animal life.
There are plenty of remote areas that provide
habitats for jaguars, tapirs, and wild pigs.
However, spotting these elusive creatures is
difficult. Monkeys, sloths, and alligators are
more commonly sighted.
The emerald tree boa is

Amazon river winding through dense rainforest not venomous, but feeds
on rodents and small
animals of the forest.
Hoatzins, one of the

most primitive of birds,
live in flocks and build
their nests in low
canopy trees.
The upper canopy, about The three-toed

131 ft (40 m) above the sloth inhabits the
ground, is active with forest canopy,
Buriti Palm reptiles, mammals, tropical moving incredibly
birds, and other wildlife. slowly in search of
its vegetarian diet of
fruits, leaves, and
sprouting plants.
The guamo tree, found all
across the Amazon, grows
very fast to an average
height of 30 ft (10 m).
Pau-d’arco-
amarelo bears
bright yellow
flowers from
August to
November,
while shedding
Tapirs, the largest of all Amazon mammals, can
all its leaves. weigh up to 661 lb (300 kg). These herbivores
take refuge in water to escape danger.
Freshwater river
dolphins, both gray and
The black water
pink, live in the main
owes its color rivers and lakes of the
to its source Amazon basin.
in low-lying
forests
where rotting
vegetation is
absorbed into
the river
system.
Piranhas are known for

their razor-sharp teeth.
Only a few species pose
a threat to larger animals.
The People of Amazônia

Approximately 900,000 indigenous people, distributed
among 240 groups, live in Brazil. Each group has its own
unique dialect, mythology, arts, and culture. A majority of
them are semi-nomadic, and live by hunting, gathering,
fishing, and migratory farming. These indigenous people
live in close harmony with the rhythms of the rainforest, and
conservation and sustainability are an integral part of their
life. The degree of exposure to western society varies
greatly. Some people, such as the nomadic Maku, are
incredibly isolated, while others, such as the literate Ticuna
Man peering through a cokar (headgear)
(see p30), are heavily reliant on modern Brazilian society. of blue macaw feathers
Yanomami people
The Yanomami live in the rainforests of southern
Venezuela and Northern Brazil. One of the most The
recently contacted tribes in Amazônia, they patterns
number around 20,000 today. Considered fierce painted on a
warriors, the tribe consists of four subdivisions, Yanomami adult
each with its distinct language. have an aesthetic, as
well as magical and
religious significance.
Hammocks,
slung under
palm leaf roofs
along the inside
perimeter of the
During Rehao, a yearly ceremony of paying circular hut, are
obeisance to the dead, the Yanomami commonly used
decorate their arms and shoulders with by old and
colorful feathers. young alike.
Tukano People Tukano

handicrafts are
The name Tukano is used for a number of sold in local
ethnolinguistic subgroups living in northwestern markets, or
Brazil along the Rio Uapés. The individual groups used as trade
live in communal houses, which are spaced out items favored
along the river at a distance of several hours by non
by canoe. The Tukano grow bitter manioc and indigenous
cultivate sweet potato, peanut, and plantain. people in the
area.
The traditional
flute, played by
male initiates, is
characterized
by a piercing
echo. The flute is
believed to be the
earthly manifest
ation of spirits
which dominate
the magical and
religious world The maloca, a hut made from wood and palm
of the Tukano. leaves, provides shelter to the whole village.
Impact of Globalization
The need for national development, fueled by globalization, is
prompting the government of Brazil to enforce economic policies
that are inimical to the tribal way of life. Pipelines to expand fuel
production, and highway projects for transporting goods for global
enterprises, are opening up indigenous lands to loggers, miners,
ranchers, and colonists. The positive impact of globalization may
involve easier access to the modern world, including medicines,
Women gaining access to modern tools education, and tools.
Kayapó People
A large lip disc
Around 12,000 Kayapós live in the Amazon River Basin
is worn by older
in an area the size of Austria, with villages along the
Kayapó men. Its
Rio Xingú. Circles are one of the tribe’s main symbols, size increases
representing the course of the sun and moon. Body with the age
paint, which is worn at all times, is equally symbolic. and importance
The Kayapó also wear ear plugs and lip discs, according of the person
to which their social status can be determined, within the
particularly their right to speak and be heard. community.
Children and
women usually
wear ear discs.
Beautiful Bead
Bracelets, created by
Kayapó women,
bear geometric
designs with
symbolic mean-
ings. These are
Ritual communal dancing constitutes a crucial part of the similar to the
Kayapó celebration of important events in the year. This is brightly colored
the time when Kayapó men and women show off their patterns painted
interesting headdresses – usually made from macaw and on their bodies with
parrot feathers – and other ritual adornments. vegetable dyes.
Ashaninka People
Originally from Peru, the Ashaninka fled to parts of Brazil Small dugout
canoes or
to escape the rubber boom from 1839 to 1913. Still
balsawood rafts
possessing a fairly traditional material culture, the
are regularly used
Ashaninka wear long cushmas that the women weave by the riverine
from cotton grown in small forest gardens. They make a Ashaninka for
living from hunting, fishing, and small-scale gardening. traveling on the
Rice, coffee, and chocolate supplement their way of life rivers along
with bought-in goods including metal tools and soaps. with their
families.
Red face paint

is traditionally
applied by Ashaninka
most of the women weave
Ashaninka cotton cloth
people. The on primitive
strong color back-strap
comes from looms, almost
seeds of the every day, to
garden-grown make the men’s
annatto bush. pretty robes.
parÁ & amapÁ

parÁ
The states of Pará and amapá in the eastern amazon are the
gateway to the world’s largest river basin. in many ways, they
are different from one another. Pará covers an enormous area,
and has benefited from the natural wealth of the amazon
rainforest. Much smaller than Pará, amapá is relatively poor.
both states rely on the mineral extraction industry.
It is the Amazon river itself that brings mangrove swamps, some splendid
most visitors to this part of Brazil. Pará beaches, and a scattering of resorts,
stretches west as far as the straits of is located in the heart of the Amazon
Óbidos, where the river suddenly river delta.
becomes narrow. This happens due to Pará is also known for large modern iron
a geological meeting of the Guyana ore mines, such as Grande Carajás and
Shield from the north and the Brazilian the older gold mine of Serra Pelada, once
Shield from the south. North of the infamous for the vast scale of human
Amazon, Amapá occupies an isolated labor used for extraction. In southern
region, stretching from the Amazon delta Pará, the rainforest transforms into
all the way to the borders of French caatinga, a scrubby savanna landscape.
Guyana and Suriname. Once exploited for its natural resources,
Pará has many places of cultural and Amapá is now making concerted
ecological interest. The capital city, efforts towards sustainable development.
Belém, has been a vital Atlantic port since More than half of the state is under
the colonial era, and still boasts many environmental protection. Macapá,
extravagant period buildings. Santarém, the state capital of Amapá, lies on the
another sizable city, is a busy and equator. The English, Dutch, and French
attractive river port replete with clamored for a base in this part of
fascinating beaches. The massive island, Amazon, before the Portuguese settled
Ilha de Marajó, which has vast areas of at Macapá in 1738.
Fishing boats moored at the old harbor near Ver o Peso market, Belém
Aerial view over the city of Belém, with the Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Nazaré in the foreground
270  norThErn BrAzIl
Exploring Pará & Amapá

Even with their widespread rainforest canopy, which can
only be seen clearly from the air, it is ocean and river travel
that have long been the hallmark of Pará and Amapá states.
Their highlights include the tasteful, restored historic
buildings of Belém in Pará, along with the Amazon river
itself, as well as splendid riverine beaches such as Alter do
Chão, close to Santarém, and those found on the Ilha de
Marajó. Macapá, the capital of Amapá, with its refreshing
sea breeze, was founded around the Forte de São José. It
lies on the equator in a strategic position on the north side
of the Amazon river estuary. More than half of the state is
under environmental protection. Corner tower, Fortaleza de São José de
Macapá, Macapá
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities
1 Belém pp272–3 Kapiting
ue
2 Salinópolis umaq
Tu m u v
4 Macapá
Asoenangka S e r ra d o
5 Santarém
Ja
Merirumã ri
6 Óbidos
Maloca
7 Monte Alegre
Manaus Mapireme
C umi
Areas of Natural Beauty Maicuru
Jari
Imab
Tauin
Trombetas
nap
3 Ilha de Marajó Arere Pa

ane
v
ru
i
ma
Porteira
ha
N
mu Cuminá
ndá
Arapari
0 km 100 ÓBIDOS MONTE
Juruti Curuaí ALEGRE
0 miles 100
Alter do Chão SANTARÉM
Boim
Boa Vista
PARÁ
Iriri
Vila Braga
Porto Alegre
Itaituba
Lua Nova Sem Tripa Forte
Veneza
Tucuparé
Bacabal
Entre Rios Sobrado
São Martinho
Jacareacanga Araras
Uari
Riozin
Se
Porto
Velho
r r eles Pire
Manuelzinho
h
a
o
T
Usina
d
o
C
Iriri
ach
imbo
s
Cachimbo
Ferries moored on the shore of Rio Tapajós,

Santarém, Pará
pa r Á & a m a pÁ  271
Ponta dos
Índios
Mountains of fresh fruit at Ver o Peso market, Belém
Oiapoque
ock
Getting Around
ap
Vila Velha
Oy
Rivers are the transport arteries of Pará, where virtually every

Lourenço village has some form of riverboat service. There are regular
Calçoene riverboat services connecting Belém, Macapá, and Santarém.
Amapá While there are very few bus routes in Pará, most access is by
road in Amapá. However, the roads are mainly unsurfaced, and
AMAPÁ bus travel during the rainy season can be treacherous in both
Serra do states. Air services are widespread. Belém and Macapá can be
Navio Nazaré
reached from most cities in Brazil by air, and there are daily
Porto Estuário do flights from Belém to most larger towns in the Amazon.
Grande Amazonas
I ratapur u
MACAPÁ
Mazagão
AJ Ó Cajuuna
Itatupã
AR
Monte M Soure SALINÓPOLIS
Dourado s E Algodoal Key
na
D
zo
ma Curumu Castanhal Major road
A
A
ILH
Abaetetuba BELÉM Minor road

Porto de Breves
Moz Pa ra Railroad
Cameta Moju São Luís
Carvalho International border
Barbacena
ins
State border
Badajós Canindé
Tocant
Belo Monte Paragominas

Altamira Joana Peres
Pindobal
i
Bacajá
up
Tucuruí Surubi
ú
r
Gu
Represa
Tucuruí
Lontra Jacunda
Porto do Barka
Itupiranga
Marabá São João do

São Sebastião s
ba Araguaia
ape
Carajás
rau
Nazaré
aia
Pa
São Félix
do Xingu
gu
Ara
Xinguara
Gradaús Redenção
Aldeia Velha
Fr Conceição
do Araguaia
Xi
es
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co
u
Santana do
Araguaia
A creek near Araruna beach, Ilha de Marajó

1 Belém
The attractive city of Belém was founded by the Portuguese
in 1616 to guard the mouth of the Amazon river against other
European powers. As the Amazon region’s resources, mainly
spices, were exploited, the city soon became a major trading
port. It was ravaged during the 1835 Cabanagem Rebellion,
when poor settlers attacked the wealthy local elite. By the
end of the 19th century, Belém had more than recovered
its economic position, largely due to the rubber boom.
It is still the most important port in Northern Brazil, and a
fascinating place in which to explore the wealth of colonial Cannon on display at the 17th-century
Forte do Castelo
and republican architecture.
wood and mud plaster by
the Portuguese colonists in
1616. It was rebuilt six years
later, and again in 1878. It
now houses the Museu do
Encontro, a small historical
museum presenting the
city’s history and the early
conquest of the Amazon.
P Palácio Antônio Lemos

Praça Dom Pedro II. Tel (91) 3114
1028. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. &
This splendid palace housed the
Ships docked on the waterfront at the Ver o Peso market municipal authorities between
1868 and 1883. It still has offices
= Estaçáo das Docas and farinha (manioc, or cassava- for the Prefeitura, but much of
Blvd Castilho França, Campina. root, flour) to medicinal herbs the building is open to the
Tel (91) 3212 5525. and aromatic oils. The market public, with some furnished
Open 10am–midnight daily. extends along the promenade period rooms upstairs. The
∑ estacaodasdocas.com.br where there are further stalls palace is home to the Museu
Three former warehouses and kiosks selling craft goods de Arte de Belém, which houses
overlooking the river have been and local food specialties. a fine collection of Brazilian
converted into a stylish, air- 20th-century paintings.
conditioned shopping, dining, P Forte do Presépio
and entertainment space. Praça Frei Caetano Brandão 117, P Teatro da Paz
Visitors enjoy the lively Cidade Velha. Tel (91) 4009 8828. Praça da República. Tel (91) 4009 8750.
atmosphere until late at night. Open 10am-4pm Tue-Sun. & Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–noon
Sitting at the confluence of Rio Sat, 10–11am Sun. 8 on the hour.
( Ver o Peso Guamá and the Baía do Guajará, This grand Neo-Classical opera
Av Castilhos França. Open 6am– this fort was first built of house was built in 1878, along
2pm daily.
Incredibly hectic early in the
morning, Ver o Peso, or “See the Transamazônica
Weight,” was originally a colonial Until the middle of the 20th century,
customs point (Posto Fiscal), riverboat or mule trail were the only
where goods were assessed for viable forms of travel across Amazônia
taxation purposes. These days, and Northern Brazil. With the ambitious
its most obvious feature is the construction of Highway BR-230 during
iron-built fish market, the the late 1960s, the Atlantic port of Belém
was effectively connected all the way
Mercado de Ferro, which was
to the Peruvian border. Known as the
designed and made in England
Transamazônica, this road is in a poor
and assembled here in the late state of repair along much of its length.
19th century. The variety of In 2005, a river bridge to Peru was
seafood inside is staggering. opened in the remote jungle state of
Outside, the main market Acre, completing the Brazilian end Unpaved section of the
expands into stalls that sell of the Transamazônica. Transamazônica
everything from jungle fruits
BELÉM  273
on 16 major arches, each VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

ornately covered in stone
mosaics and supporting a Practical Information
breathtaking red cedar roof. Pará. * 1,385,000. n Belémtur,
It was completed in 1909, to Av Presidente Vargas 158, (91) 3073
house the miraculous Virgin 9802; Paratur, Praça Waldemar
image of Nossa Senhora de Henrique, (91) 3110 5000. _
Nazaré, which is traced back Círio de Nazaré (Oct, 2nd Sun).
to early Christian Nazareth.
Transport
Linked to the icon, the Círio k 7 miles (12 km) N of town.
de Nazaré, or the Festival of @ Av G. José Malcher, (91) 3266
Candles, attracts over a million 2625. g from Macapá, Manaus &
visitors to the city every October. Santarém. Taxi: Radiotaxi Aguia,
In one of the main symbolic (91) 3276 4000
Elegant interior of the Neo-Classical acts, hundreds of local people
Teatro da Paz work together, dragging an
enormous rope from the mud
the very Parisian Avenida and water of the port, through the year are granted. The basilica
Presidente Vargas. Inspired by La the streets of the city to the also houses the Museu Círio de
Scala in Milan, the furnishings are Basílica de Nossa Senhora de Nazaré, which is devoted to the
still largely original. Legendary Nazaré. For those who cult of the Círio and exhibits
Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova participate, their sins are purged, over 500 pieces relating to the
was one of the great artists to and their hopes and wishes for religious festival.
have performed here.
R Basílica de Nossa Senhora

de Nazaré
Praça Justo Chermont. Tel (91) 4009
8400. Open 7am–6pm Mon–Sat,
6:30am–noon, 4:30–8pm Sun.
Museu Círio de Nazaré: Open 9am–
6pm Tue–Fri.
The basilica’s spectacular
interior makes it one of the
most stunning churches in
Brazil. Partially modeled on
St. Peter’s in Rome, it stands Nave of the Basílica de Nossa Senhora de Nazaré
Belém City Center 0 meters 400

1 Estaçáo das Docas 0 yards 400
2 Ver o Peso
3 Forte do Presépio Val-de-Cans
7 miles (12 km)
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4 miles (7 km)

2 Salinópolis
Pará. * 40,000. k Belém Val de Caes
Airport, 110 miles (180 km) SE of town,
then bus. @ Av Miguel Santa Brigada.
n Paratur (91) 3423 2203.
The town of Salinópolis, locally

known as Salinas, is just about
as far east as the Amazon river
delta reaches. Very much the
traditional summer resort for
city folk, Salinas has plenty of
beaches fringed with beach
huts and second homes. The
busiest beach is the central
Praia do Maçarico, which has A secluded beach near Souré, Ilha de Marajó
several bars and restaurants.
More pleasant still, there is the village or on Maiandeua island, 3 Ilha de Marajó
Praia do Atalaia, not far from adding to the remote and idyllic Pará. * 250,000. g from Belém to
the center of town, backed by feel. Electricity only reached Porto Camará. n Trapiche Municipal,
sand dunes and well provided the island in 2004, so facilities Rua 1, Souré, (91) 8769 8756.
with barracas (tents) for food are improving.
and drink. A continuation of this The main beach for the The world’s largest river island,
beach, the Praia do Farol Velho, village is the Praia da Vila do Ilha de Marajó covers over
is thickly lined with beach Algodoal. More popular, 18,533 sq miles (48,000 sq km),
houses, and is most popular however, is the palm-fringed mostly dedicated to cattle
during July, when it can often Praia da Princesa do Farol, a ranches, or fazendas. The island
get rather crowded. superb stretch of sand is famous for having the biggest
secluded from the main beach and finest buffaloes in Brazil.
Environs by a short walk at low tide or Their meat, leather, and dairy
About 19 miles (30 km) west a canoe ride. There are trails products are widely available
of Salinópolis is the relatively on the island, offering the to purchase. Ilha de Marajó was
sleepy fishing settlement and opportunity to spot wildlife also the ancient home to the
beach resort of Algodoal. The and explore the area around an indigenous culture of the
resort lies on the western edge inland freshwater lake. It is Marajoaras, notable for their
of Ilha de Maiandeua, just a advisable to carry adequate exquisite ceramic burial and
40-minute boat ride away. There cash to visit the island, since ceremonial urns.
are no motorized vehicles in the there are no banks or ATMs. The unofficial capital of the
island is Souré, which has the
most shops, restaurants, and
Pottery on Ilha De Marajó other facilities, but the ferry port
In 1948, anthropologists Betty Meggers is Porto Camará, some 16 miles
and Clifford Evans discovered a large, (27 km) south of Souré. Located
painted anthropomorphic vessel between Porto Camará and
on Ilha de Marajó. The ancient Souré, the best and most
inhabitants, the Marajoaras, left behind secluded beach is at the small
not only burial mounds, some almost town of Joanes, some 3 miles
3,000 years old, but also some very fine (5 km) off the main road. There
ceramics, leading archaeologists to are good beaches at the other
believe that between the 5th and 13th town on the island, Salvaterra,
centuries, there were sophisticated where there are also several
societies living along the banks of the hotels and pousadas. The Praia
Amazon river. Excavations reveal that
Grande beach in Salvaterra is well
the dead were buried in line according
Marajó pottery displayed in served with beach chairs, snack
to their social ranking, with larger urns
Museu Goeldi, Belém
indicating higher status. Most of these
barracas, and refreshment stands.
ceramics, representing abstract During the peak rainy season
feminine figures, demonstrate the matrilineal nature of this early (February–May) many of the
Amazonian society. As well as funerary ceramics, there were also roads are inaccessible for long
bowls, vases, spindle whorls, and stools. The larger urns generally periods; this includes the road
took three main forms: humanoid, cyclindrical, and round; and to Joanes and Salvaterra at
around 15 different finishing techniques are known to have been times. Boats for moving around
utilized. Some excellent examples of the urns can be found in the the island can be found easily
Museu Goeldi in Belém. at Souré, Salvaterra, and
Porto Camará.
PA R Á & A M A PÁ  275
4 Macapá
Amapá. * 395,000. k g from
Belém. @ Bairro São Lázaro, (96) 3251
2009. n Setur, Rua Independência
29, Centro, (96) 3212 5335.
_ O Marabaixo (May).
Split in two by the equator,

Macapá is hot and humid all
year round. The city occupies
its position as Amapá’s capital
sitting on the northern bank of
the Amazon river, very close to
the giant river’s mouth. It is
rather isolated, with mostly air A replica of a typical indigenous home, Museu SACACA, Macapá
and boat transportation, rather
than road connections. These days, Macapá is the goods, carved wooden statues,
The history of the city is rich capital of a progressive state. and allnatural medicines.
and varied. Several European Following the election of the The Marco Zero monument,
countries, including England environmentalist João a large obelisk
obeliskcumsundial,
and France, attempted to take it Capiberibe as state governor 4 miles (6 km) southwest of
over from the Portuguese, but in 1995, successive governors the city center, marks the
the Portuguese established have kept the spirit equatorial line
their hold here by completing of environ on Avenida
the grand Fortaleza de São mentalism alive. Equatorial.
José de Macapá in 1782, after One present A sports stadium
almost 20 years of construction project is to and sambódromo
by black and Indian slave labor. connect all the Wooden artifact, also form part of the
The bricks used were brought state’s protected areas Museu SACACA same complex.
over from Portugal as ballast with wildlife or bio
on the ships. diversity corridors. The Museu P Fortaleza de São José
Just to the north of the fort SACACA, or the Museum of de Macapá
there is an attractive pier, the Sustainable Development, just a Av Candido Mendes. Tel (96) 3212
Trapiche Eliezer Levy, which short distance south of the 5118. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. 8
dates back to the 1930s. The town center, offers fascinating
( Mercado dos Produtos
pier stretches far out into the guided tours of replica ribeirinho
da Floresta
water and it is an enjoyable (riverdweller) houses.
Rua São José 1500. Tel (96) 9 9961
stroll to the end of it, especially The Mercado dos Produtos
0913. Open 8am–6pm Mon–Fri.
on a breezy evening. The da Floresta offers a wide range
charming Trapiche Restaurante, of local art and craft goods, E Museu SACACA
also located at the end of the ranging from balata (ceramics) Av Feliciano Coelho, 1509.
pier, has a breathtaking view dusted with manganese ore to Tel (96) 3212 5361. Open 9am–6pm
overlooking the river. indigenous crafts, leather Tue–Sun. 8
Buildings inside the Fortaleza de São José de Macapá

Wooden house on stilts on the Amazon River, with the rainforest behind
5 Santarém
Pará. * 295,000. k ~ g from Docas
do Pará (W of center). n Santarém
Tour, Rua Adriano Pimentel 44. (93)
3522 4847. ∑ santaremtur.com.br
Amazônia’s fourth-largest city,

Santarém sits at the mouth of
the Rio Tapajós, surrounded by
brilliant white sandy beaches.
Modern Santarém began in 1661
as a Jesuit mission, following 30
years of military action in the
area to subdue the fierce,
indigenous Tapuiçu Indians.
In 1867, there was an influx of
ex-Confederates from the USA, a
handful of whose descendants
still survive. However, it was the
rubber boom and Santarem’s
strategic position as a pit stop
en route along the Amazon river
that turned the town into a Ferries moored on the shore of the Amazon river at Santarém
buzzing commercial center.
In the late 19th century, Henry An ancient center for the Santarém, which has a decent
Wickam, an English settler in production of fine ceramics, the collection of religious art.
Santarém, smuggled rubber town showcases its distinct
tree seeds out to establish Santarém Phase Pottery in a Environs
rubber plantations in striking museum, the Located 20 miles (33 km) west of
Asia. Within 40 years, Museu de Santarém. Santarém, the river-beach town
and just in time for The exhibits promi- of Alter do Chão has fine sandy
World War I, Asian nently feature burial beaches set against a calm bay
rubber plantations urns, reputed to be on the Rio Tapajós. Canoes ferry
greatly outproduced the among the oldest in visitors across the bay in order to
Brazilian Amazon. Burial urn, Museu de South America. Also climb the low-lying hills that
The local economy is Santarém known as Centro offer breathtaking views. Closer
today based on rubber, Cultural João Fona, to the main beach is another
logging, soya, brazil nuts, and the museum has a striking prominently shaped hill that
tourism. Colorful boats and interior, painted by João resembles a church altar.
frantic movement of produce at Fona, an artist from Pará. Fordlândia, 62 miles (100 km)
the port and along the attractive Another attraction is the south of town, was Henry Ford’s
riverfront are typical today. Museu de Arte Sacra de first rubber plantation, founded
The Rubber Story in Brazil

In the mid-1700s, Charles-Marie de la Condamine was
presented with latex syringes from the Hevea brasiliensis tree
by the Omagua people living in Amazônia. He returned to
France with samples, and rubber became known to the world.
Soon it was being used for everything from insulation to tyres,
and Hevea brasiliensis had become the oil of its day. In
Amazônia, where the rubber tree grew in abundance, foreign
banks and companies began to set up plantations. The rubber
boom ushered Manaus and Belém into the belle époque era,
with electric lights, lavish opera houses, and mansions for the
rubber barons. Brazil emerged as the world’s largest producer
of natural rubber. The euphoria lasted until 1910, when the
British colonies in Asia – Malaya, Ceylon, and Singapore –
outproduced the Brazilian rubber. Unprepared for
competition, Brazil was elbowed out of the rubber market by
1914. The indigenous Brazilians, who had been rounded up
and forcibly settled to work on the plantations, returned to
Belterra, a rubber plantation set up by John relative freedom. Today, much of Brazil’s rubber is imported
Ford in the 1930s from Asia.
PA R Á & A M A PÁ  279
in the 1920s to produce rubber

for the Ford Motor Company. In
the 1930s, he also established
Belterra, 12 miles (20 km) south.
Both ventures failed, and Ford
had to sell them to the Brazilian
government in 1945. These
towns are accessible by boat
from Alter do Chão.
E Museu de Arte Sacra de

Santarém
Rua Siqueira Campos 439, Centro. A surfer catching the “Pororoca” tidal wave
Tel (93) 3523 0658. Open 10am–1pm,
2–6pm Mon–Fri; 10am–1pm, 2–7pm Pororoca Wave
Sat & Sun.
Revered by surfers, the Pororoca is a legendary wave, over 16 ft (5 m)
E Museu de Santarém tall, that regularly rolls up the Amazon river. The name Pororoca
Rua do Imperador, Praça de Santarém. comes from a local Tupi Indian phrase which means “great destructive
Tel (93) 2101 5100. Open 8am–5pm noise.” Predicted to happen twice daily during full moons between
Mon–Fri. & donation expected. January and April every year, the wave comes in from the Atlantic
causing some devastation along the riverbanks. Following a low
tide in the rainy season, the force of the mighty river against the
6 Óbidos turning tide creates the large and powerful wave that rolls, literally
unstoppable, up the Amazon. The surfing record so far is 37 minutes
Pará. * 47,000. g from Santarém. in time and 7 miles (12 km) in distance, while the tidal waves are
n Rua Idelfonso Guimarães,
known to travel over 12 miles (20 km) per hour at times.
Praça da Cultura, (93) 3547 1134.
The real gateway to the deeper

Amazon, Óbidos marks the 7 Monte Alegre the rubber industry. It is best
narrowest section of the Pará. * 23,500. g 8 Rua do
known for the rock paintings of
Amazon river valley. It was Jaquara 320. Serra Paytuna and Serra Ererê,
created 40 million years ago, located 19 miles (30 km) out of
when a massive inland lake Located impressively on top of town. Estimated to be 10,000
burst through to the Atlantic at a small hill beside the Amazon years old, the paintings feature
this point, where the Guyanan river, the town of Monte Alegre abstract patterns, mostly
Shield meets the Brazilian Shield. was one of the first places on geometric in form, and some
The pretty waterfront has the river to be colonized by stylized representations of
some beautifully tiled buildings Europeans. A band of English human and animal figures. It is
and the 17th-century Forte and Irish sailors were the earliest obligatory to hire a guide and
Pauxias. There is also a free to settle here in the 1570s, a vehicle to visit them. Monte
museum featuring, among soon to be expelled by the Alegre is also renowned for
other exhibits, luxury items Portuguese. Over the last 200 scenic waterfalls and its wealth
from the rubber-boom days. years, Monte Alegre has of birdlife, for which a local guide
The museum opens on request. benefited from ranching and and a canoe will be required.
Boats moored along the waterfront in Óbidos, with rows of houses in the background
AMAZONAS, RORAIMA,
ACRE & RONDÔNIA
The states of Amazonas, Roraima, Acre, and Rondônia form
the heartland of the vast Amazon rainforest region, which is
drained by the world’s largest network of freshwater lakes and
rivers. Despite hundreds of years of European presence and the
ravages of 20th and 21st century deforestation, the region is still
home to some of the world’s most isolated indigenous peoples.
Amazonas is larger than the other Acre and Rondônia, in the very southwest
three states put together. Manaus, its corner of the Brazilian Amazon, possess
capital, is the most popular place from some fantastic protected areas of
which to explore the jungle. The city sits biodiversity, home to many indigenous
at the confluence of two of the world’s communities. Acre, the rubber-tapping
largest rivers – the Solimões (as the center of the Amazon, is known for its
Amazon river is called in this section) lush beauty. Environmental destruction
and the Rio Negro. The vast Rio Madeira has been met with equally forceful
lies downstream of Manaus. conservation movements here. The state
Roraima, which literally juts up into capital, Rio Branco, was where activist
Venezuela and Guyana, is best known Chico Mendes fought to defend the
for its superb plateau-topped mountains, forest in the late 1980s.
lakes, and substantial rainforest. A host of Rondônia, an area which has developed
indigenous groups live here, tenaciously beyond recognition, still retains some
holding on to their land and culture. of Brazil’s best flora and fauna. It also
Roraima also boasts open savannas that offers fascinating gems in terms of
have been transformed into cattle ranches. heritage, such as the Madeira-Mamoré
The state capital, Boa Vista, is a well-planned railway museum in the state capital,
city on the banks of the Rio Branco. Porto Velho.
Village huts surrounded by tall palm tree plantations in Acre

A wooden canopy walkway through Brazilian nut trees, Rio Branco, Acre
Exploring Amazonas, Roraima,

Acre & Rondônia
This region offers the ultimate rainforest experience. Most
people travel here to explore the dense forests, picturesque
river islands, and tranquil waterways. The sights include
Manaus, the legendary capital city of Amazonas, which offers
much architectural and cultural interest. Also located in
Amazonas is the Mamirauá Reserve, Brazil’s first sustainable
development reserve. The secluded and beautiful mountains
of Roraima are worth a visit, as is Acre, with its natural beauty,
history, and seringueiros (rubber-tappers) culture. Porto Velho, Spectacled caimans can be found
the capital of Rondônia, overlooking the Amazon’s longest near Manaus
tributary, the mighty Rio Madeira, is a lively place to visit.
Riverboat excursions on the Rio Madeira are a good way to
idle away a few hours and spot a few pink dolphins. Altamira
Camarão
Marabitanas
Pico da Neblina
9,888 ft (3,014 m)
Uaruma
Uaupés Castanheiro
iari
ieur
Cur São João xi
M ar i
é eiu
Un
Novo
Julia Japu Marapi
rá
Capana Estação Ecológica
Mamiraua
Tonantins Fonte Boa
Içá
aí
Jut
Amazonas
u
Jur
São Paulo Amataurá

de Olivença
Boats anchored on the Rio Madeira outside Porto Velho Tabatinga

Caxias
ba
Carauari
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Jutaí
Sights at a Glance Boa Vista
ia
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Ja
Jut
í
Towns & Cities

Itu
Foz de u á
1 Manaus pp284–7 Rodrigues Tapa
Gregório Itamarati
2 Parintins u á uá
Jur X ir
3 Boa Vista
Mamoriá
4 Rio Branco
5 Porto Velho Pucallpa Feijó
Cruzeiro
do Sul Tarauacá
ACRE Floriano
Peixoto
Boca do Acre
co
Taumaturgo Sena Madureira

Ia
Progresso
RIO BRANCO
Guanabara
Getting Around Xapuri
Joining an organized tour with one of the companies in Manaus, Boa

Vista, Porto Velho, or Rio Branco is the best way to see the Amazon
jungle. Most companies offer accommodation in tourist lodges and
travel by a combination of road and riverboat or canoe. For those 0 km 200
who want to travel independently, it is possible to move around the
0 miles 200
jungle on local riverboats. Road travel is also possible from all cities.
Manaus, for instance, is only 6 hours by bus from Novo Airão, on the
Rio Negro, where it is possible to bathe in jungle rivers and swim
with pink dolphins.
Monte Caburaí
4,777 ft (1,456 m)
Mataruca
C o tt i n ga
Serra Merari Normandia

4,068 ft (1,240 m)
Se r r a Pa r i
Ur Uraricoera
ari Bonfim
coer
a
m BOA VISTA Serra Grande
a 3,773 ft (1,150 m)
RORAIMA The Rio Branco snaking through Roraima

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Visitors exploring the forest near Manaus

1 Manaus painters, photographers, and

installation artists. The exuberant
Manaus is a legendary city, located at the heart of the Amazon paintings of local flora and fauna
forest on the banks of the Rio Negro, close to where this massive by Manaus painter Rita Loureiro
river blends with the even larger Amazon river, or Rio Solimões are especially noteworthy.
as it is known along this section of its course. Manaus is a busy E Homem do Norte
city bringing together the hectic pace of a modern port with Centro Cultural dos Povos da
the hot, laid-back feel of a jungle town. The brief period of Amazônia, Praça Francisco Pereira da
economic boom between 1888 and 1912, due to the export Silva. Tel (92) 2125 5300. Open 8:30–
11:30am, 2–4:30pm Mon–Fri. &
of rubber, catapulted Manaus into wealthy city status. The only
An anthropology and ethnology
signs that remain of this time are the fancy European buildings
museum, the fascinating Museu
of the port and the even more splendid Teatro Amazonas. do Homem do Norte (Museum
of Northern Man) has exhibits on
( Mercado Municipal fabricated in England. The stone the way of life of the people of
Adolfo Lisboa used for the building was Northern Brazil. It is particularly
Rua dos Barés 46. Open 6am–6pm brought from Scotland. The dedicated to the caboclos
Mon–Sat, 6am–noon Sun. tower used to be a lighthouse. (coppercolored) mixed
The municipal market was built Much of this refined building’s descendants of the indigenous
in 1902, very close to the port, glory can be seen from the people and Portuguese who
and is an amazing building. Praça Adalberto Valle opposite. live along the riverbanks.
Looking up to its elegant ceiling Cultural, social, and economic
and Art Nouveau ironwork struc P Teatro Amazonas aspects of life in Northern
ture, it is not difficult to see that See pp286–7. Brazil are detailed with photo
Gustave Eiffel himself had a hand graphs, documents, artifacts,
in its design. The cultural E Palacete Provincial and everyday objects, such
evening held here on the last Praça da Policia, Centro. Tel (92) 3631 as historic cooking utensils,
Friday of every month offers a 6047. Open 9am–7pm Tue–Thu (to costumes, and an interesting
chance to experience regional 8pm Fri & Sat. collection of indigenous
music, food, and entertainment. Built in 1874 originally to house weapons, including the
the police headquarters, the infamous furador de olhos
P Alfândega Palacete Provincial is now a (eye piercer). There are also
Rua Marquês de Santa Cruz. Tel (92) cultural center, which is home exhibitions on guaraná
3622 3025. Open 8am–noon Mon– to several interesting small muse and rubber production.
Sat. ums and collections, including
Constructed in 1906 at the the Museum of Image and Sound, P Palácio Rio Negro
height of the rubber boom, the the Military Police Museum, and Av 7 de Setembro 1546. Tel (92) 3232
Alfândega (Customs House), like the Numismatic Museum. The 4450. Open 9am–3pm Mon–Fri.
many of the wellengineered Palacete’s highlight is the art gal A remarkably wellpreserved
features of Manaus from this lery, which features modern and colonialperiod mansion, the
period, was entirely pre contemporary art by regional almost garish Palácio Rio Negro
The Rio Negro with the Porto Flutante (Floating Port) and the Catedral Metropolitana in the background
MANAUS  285
was built in 1913 during the Índio was established by VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
rubber boom. It was originally Salesian nuns and is based
home to an eccentric German on their work as missionaries Practical Information
rubber baron, Waldermar in the Rio Negro area. There Amazonas. * 1,800,000.
Scholz. In later years, it housed are many feather-work exhibits n AmazonasTur, Manaus
the local government. These and some weapons and tools, Airport, (92) 3652 1120.
days, much of it has been as well as household and _ Manaus Opera Festival (Apr/
opened to the public as a sacred objects on display, May), Festival Folclórico do
Amazonas (Jun).
cultural center. The palace hosts along with musical instruments
∑ manausonline.com
art exhibitions and events, as and artworks. The Tukano
well as film screenings. people (see p266) are Transport
particularly well represented k ~ @ Rua Recife 2784, (92)
E Museu do Índio here. Explanations of the 642 5805. g Porto Flutuante.
Rua Duque de Caxias 296. Tel (92) displays are in Portuguese,
3635 1922. Open 8:30am–4:30pm English, and German. The
Mon–Fri (to 11:30am Sat). & museum has a good craft O Zoológico do CIGS
An excellent ethnographic shop, with a wide range of Estrada Ponta Negra 750.
museum, the Museu do handicrafts on sale. Tel (92) 2125 6402. Open 8am–5pm
Tue–Sun. &
One of the few places around
Manaus where you might see
a jaguar at close quarters, the
Zoológico do CIGS is a great
place to take children. Located
8 miles (13 km) from Manaus
toward Ponta Negra in the
army jungle training center,
this small zoo is home to over
300 animals including many
caimans, monkeys, exotic birds,
and an unforgettable large pit
Traditional indigenous longhouse at the Museu do Índio full of anacondas.
Manaus City Center Zoológico do CIGS

RUA 10 DE J
ULHO
8 miles (13 km)
J O AQ U IM N A B U CO
AV EDUARDO RIBEIRO
PRAÇA SÃO
1 Mercado Municipal Aeroporto de Teatro SEBASTIÃO
Eduardo Gomes Amazonas
Adolfo Lisboa
VARGAS
RUA MARÇAL
GABRIEL
10 miles (17 km)
2 Alfândega
RUA BARROSO
MANAUS
AVENIDA EPAMINONDAS
RUA 24 DE MAIO
R JOAQUIM SARAMENTO
3 Teatro Amazonas
RUA LOBO D'ALMADA
MAJOR
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RUA
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Manaus: Teatro Amazonas

Built at the end of the 19th century during the belle
époque, when fortunes were made from the extraction
of rubber in Manaus, the Teatro Amazonas remains one of
the jewels of the Amazon region. This grand Renaissance-
style opera house was designed by Gabinete Português de
Engenharia de Lisbon (Portuguese Engineering Academy
of Lisbon). Inaugurated on December 31, 1896, it was two
more years before construction was completed and the
prominent landmark with a glistening dome appeared
above the port. Major restoration was carried out in 2016.
The Teatro façade, restored to pink at the close

of the 20th century
. The Painted Curtain

The main stage curtain was created by Manaus-
based artist Crispim do Amaral (1845–1911) to
depict the Meeting of the Waters (see p289), and
also a local river goddess, Iara. The curtain is
pulled up into the specially designed cupola
at the start of each performance.
The Wooden Floor

The opera-house floor, laid with
thousands of pieces of Amazon
timber, is a masterpiece of
craftsmanship. The light and dark
patterns represent the meeting of the
Negro and Amazon rivers (see p289).
KEY
Events
1 The
he roof is made of red tiles that Regular musical
were imported from Alsace in France. events and operas
include those of
2 The columns are made from the Companhia
Italian Carrara marble. de Dança and the
3 Outside balconies are built resident Orquestra
in finely cut Portuguese stone. Filarmônica do
Amazonas.
MANAUS  287
. The Cupola VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The impressive
cupola was Practical Information
created using Av Eduardo Ribeira 659, Manaus.
36,000 colorful Tel (92) 3622 1880.
ceramic tiles, Open 9am–2pm Tue–Sat. & 8
imported from Shows: opera, theater & dance
Alsace on the performances through
Franco-German the year.
border.
. The Four Painted Pillars

A key feature of the main
auditorium is a ceiling rosette
whose four pillars were painted
in Paris and reassembled in
Manaus. The pillars create the
impression of gazing up from
underneath the Eiffel Tower.
Lobby
The lobby is furnished with Murano
chandeliers made with Venetian glass
and French bronzework.
Main Auditorium
Designed in the shape of a harp, the theater can
seat almost 700 people. Like the main columns
and the three curving balconies, the seats are
made from English cast iron. The polished
wooden armchairs are made from local
jacaranda. The lower columns bear the names
of many classical composers.
Amazon Excursions from Manaus the rocks. The waterfalls

Cachoeira Iracema, Pedra da
Manaus is well located as a base from which to explore the Lua Branca, and Natal are on
rainforest. The main destinations include the Rio Negro, the Rio Urubuí and only
Lago Mamori, Rio Juma, Lago Manaquiri, Presidente accessible by boat. The Caverna
Araras is on a trail bordering the
Figueiredo, and, farther west, the splendid reserve at
Rio Urubuí. Another attractive
Mamirauá. Operators run tours, offering everything from cave is Caverna Maruaga,
basic accommodation to four- or five-star luxury lodges which has shallow river running
and boats. It is good to have at least half a day out of over its floor. Permission to visit
Manaus in order to have a reasonable chance of seeing a the caves has to be obtained
wide range of tropical birds and mammal wildlife such as from the tourist information
office in Manaus.
agoutis, monkeys, deer, or wild boar.
} Rio Negro & Ilhas de
Anavilhanas
60 miles (90 km) NW of Manaus. @
n Amazonastur, Av Ajuricaba s/n,
Novo Airão, (92) 3365 1391.
One of the least visited regions
of South America, the Rio
Negro area possesses distinctive
flora created by its acidic waters
and soil type. There is a lower
density of wildlife here than
any other area along the Rio
Negro. There are few towns
and even fewer tourist facilities
The Rio Urubuí and Cachoeira Iracema near Presidente Figueireido along the river, which stretches
right up to the Colombian and
Presidente Figueiredo some caves. Tours in and around Venezuelan borders.
62 miles (100 km) N of Manaus. @ the area can be booked from Ilhas de Anavilhanas is a
n Centro Turistico, (92) 3324 1308. Manaus or directly with local biological reserve and the
Presidente Figueiredo is a small guides through the tourist infor largest group of freshwater
town linked to Manaus by a mation office located at the bus islands in the world. Tours to
relatively good road. There are stop. One of the best waterfalls visit these islands are offered
more than 100 waterfalls dotted is the Pedra Furada, where the from Manaus or from Novo
around the town, as well as water gushes out of a hole in Airão. There are over 250
Parque Nacional Jaúi Presidente Balbina

50 miles (80 km) Figueiredo Sights at a Glance
240
N Ua 1 Presidente Figueiredo
Repartimento tu
eg
Araju m 2 Rio Negro & Ilhas de

a
r
o
Ur Anavilhanas
Mirapinima 174
ub
Codeagro 3 Novo Airão
uí
Santo Antônio 4 Encontro das Aguas

Rio Negro & Ilha
Branquinho
de Anavilhanas 5 Lago Manaquiri

Novo Airão Rio Preto
Maravilha da Eva 6 Lago Mamori
Tauapeçaçu 7 Instituto de Desenvolvimento
Ne
10 Sustentável Mamirauá
gr
Santa
o
352
Maria
M an
aca Amaz
p uru onas
Manaus
Conceição 70 Encontro das Careiro 0 kilometers 60
Aguas
Manacapuru Salgada 0 miles 60
Lago 254
Manaquiri Manaquiri
Anamã
Solimões
354 Lago Mamori Key
Instituto de Desenvolvimento
Sustentável Mamirauá Main road
265 miles (425 km)
Careiro Other road
Beruri 319

The Rio Negro winding through the rainforest
uninhabited islands stretching Novo Airão } Encontro das Aguas

for more than 187 miles (300 71 miles (115 km) W of Manaus. g from Manaus.
km). Depending on the season @ from Manaus. g from Manaus. One of the main tours offered
and time of day, it is possible Ibama: Rua Ministro João Gonçalves from Manaus, the Encontro das
to see caimans, sloths, snakes, de Souza s/n, Manaus. Tel (92) 3878 Aguas (Meeting of the Waters) is
frogs, and a wide range of 7102. Parque Nacional Jaú: Tel (92) where the Rio Solimões joins
bird species. Sprawled across an 3365 1345. the Rio Negro. The relatively
area of 1,350 sq miles (3,500 sq The small town of Novo Airão is creamy and alkaline light brown
km) of protected rainforest on located on the western side of or “white” water of the Solimões
the left bank of the Rio Negro, the Rio Negro, opposite the (Amazon) river takes several
the Estação Archipelago dos Anavilhanas. miles to absorb the dark, acid
Ecológica de Pleasant, yet laid-back, with water coming in from the Rio
Anavilhanas only a handful of attractions, Negro. The Solimões is light
(Ecological Station the town draws tourists because it starts mainly in the
of Anavilhanas) is part of mainly for the pink Andes and brings plenty of silt
the Anavilhanas islands. dolphins that come to with it. The Rio Negro wells up
Created in 1998 and named a floating platform at primarily in the swamplands
after the Archipelago dos Novo Airão’s small and smaller hills of the
Anavilhanas, it boasts port. They are fed northeastern Amazon and
several species in great Toco toucan in fish every hour and contains much more
danger of extinction, Amazonas visitors get the decomposed plant life than
including jaguars and opportunity to it does soil or silt.
night monkeys. stroke them while they are fed, Small boats go out from
A day-and-a-half’s journey coming into close contact with Manaus allowing tourists to take
from Ilhas de Anavilhanas, these friendly creatures. Some, photographs and see the clear
Barcelos, the only town of any however, may prefer to see the line between light brown and
size along the river, is an inter- dolphins out in the wild by black running down the middle
esting place to start a jungle taking a boat tour. of the river. It is a two-hour
expedition. Another two days The area neighboring Novo return trip from Manaus, and
upriver is the town of São Airão is home to a number of the best time to visit is between
Gabriel Da Cachoeira, a interesting sights, such as Airão 7 and 10am.
beautiful place deep in the Velho, the overgrown ruins of
Amazon with stunning jungle the old town center, with
scenery and wildlife. prehistoric spiral and figure-like
petroglyphs. The beautiful and
peaceful Igarapé do Mato
Grosso, a forested section of a
tributary river nearby, makes a
great place for a walk or a swim
in fresh water. The Parque
Nacional Jaú is a two-day trip
from Novo Airão, and is a
wonderful opportunity to visit
virgin Amazon rainforest. A
permit is required to enter the
park from the Ibama office in
Visitor feeding fish to pink dolphins in Manaus and the trip is best Meeting of the Rio Solimões and Rio Negro
Novo Airão done with a tour operator. at Encontro das Aguas
Mamori is located in a lush

rainforest setting. Much of it is
surrounded by narrow creeks,
hidden among forests full of
sloths, monkeys, and colorful,
noisy tropical birds. The river
and lake offer the opportunity
to see both pink and gray river
dolphins, as well as to go piranha
fishing. Nearby, the Lago Arara is
great for fishing, and home to a
Limpid blue sky mirrored in the clear waters of Lago Mamori pink dolphin feeding ground. The
local people, known as caboclos,
} Lago Manaquiri the area. Nonetheless, fishing have been here for generations
40 miles (64 km) SW of Manaus. remains the main activity, and and live in scattered riverside
∑ amazonas.am.gov.br/ there are many tour operators communities, occasionally
o-amazonas/turismo based in Manaus, offering coming together for celebra-
A 5-hour boat ride from Manaus, budget fishing packages. tions. They earn their living by
the backwater lake of Manaquiri It is always best to book your making farinha (manioc flour),
is best entered first via the Rio trip through a travel company rearing cattle, and fishing. Visits
Solimões, then upstream to a registered with the Brazilian to the caboclo homes can be
tributary that leads to the lake. Tourism Bureau (Embratur) organized by Gero’s Tours.
Its waters rise and fall with the (see p409). Some of the tour Run independently by English-
seasons. Relatively isolated, the agencies provide typical speaking Gero Mesquita, it can
Lago Manaquiri is usually a Amazon riverboats, which book hotels, arrange transport,
good spot for seeing waterbirds, may come fully equipped with and meticulously plan tours.
including the great egret kitchen, dining area, canopied Farther upstream and
(Casmerodius albus) and fish sundeck, bathroom, and shower. deeper into the forest from
eagles. It is not unusual to see Fishing is best in the dry season, here, the Rio Juma region
caimans and large Amazonian which usually lasts from August offers better access to wildlife,
alligators on the sandy shore. to December or January. but requires expedition-type
The lake provides sustenance preparation and several days.
to the small fishing town of } Lago Mamori Amazon Green Tours, a tour
Manaquiri. Local economy 60 miles (96 km) SE of Manaus. company based in Manaus,
depends more on fishing than Gero’s Tours: Rua 10 de Julho 695, can arrange expeditions in
on tourism. In 1995 and 2005, Manaus. Tel (92) 3232 4755. Amazônia, offering short
however, both were hit by the ∑ amazongero.com Nature Safaris: package tours, as well as longer
worst drought in over 40 years, Amazon Green Tours, Rua 10 de Julho safaris. It is possible to stay either
when the lagoons evaporated, 718, Manaus. Tel (092) 99106 5650. in a floating lodge, or one of the
∑ amazongreentours.com.br
and thousands of dead fish lay many jungle lodges along the
on the bed of the dried-up lake. Easily accessible by road and Rio Juma. Most of them offer
The changed climatic condi- boat from Manaus, the elongat- jungle hikes, piranha fishing,
tions continue to deplete fish in ed and breathtaking Lago and caiman spotting at night.
Caimans luxuriating on the sandy riverbank of Manaquiri, with a great egret in the foreground
2 Parintins
Amazonas. * 105,000.
g from Manaus. _ Festa do
Boi Bumbá (Jun); Festa das Pastorinhas
(Dec–Jan).
A large jungle town, Parintins

was originally the refuge of a
community of indigenous
riverine people, known as
caboclos, who were escaping
Portuguese slave traders. Today,
Parintins is best known for its
popular Festa do Boi Bumbá.
The festival is celebrated in
Cormorants and great egrets in the Mamirauá Reserve June, when the town gets so
packed that visitors often stay
O Instituto de expeditions in the lakes and on boats.
Desenvolvimento trails in the forest. Though there is little else to
Sustentável Mamirauá The preserve also offers see, besides the well-preserved
280 miles (450 km) W of Manaus. comfortable and ecologically colonial architecture, Parintins is
∑ uakarilodge.com.br Programa de sound accommodation at the known for its rich indigenous
Ecoturismo: Tel (97) 3343 4160. floating Uakari Lodge (see p378) culture, and the local handicrafts
Located at the confluence of close to forest trails, pretty make unique souvenirs. The flea
two rivers, the Rio Solimões jungle lakes, and caboclo markets sell everything from
and Rio Japurá, the Mamirauá communities. Book through a trinkets, lace, and bead-work to
Sustainable Development Manaus tour company, or masks and mahogany carvings.
Reserve covers an area of directly with the Programa de During the dry season, boat
5703 sq miles (14,770 sq km). Ecoturismo in Tefé, 16 miles trips can be taken to nearby
Since 1990, when it was (25 km) south. lakes and river beaches.
declared an ecological station,
the Mamirauá Reserve has been
one of Brazil’s most prized Festa do Boi Bumbá
ecotourism spots. The vibrant festival, Festa do Boi Bumbá, is centered around a
Splendid and luxuriant, its ritualistic dance recounting the death and rebirth of a legendary
várzea (seasonally flooded) boi (ox). Originating on the 18th-century Northeast plantations, the
vegetation offers plenty of festival arrived in Parintins almost 100 years ago with the Cid brothers
opportunity for spotting from Maranhão. They brought with them the Bumba-meu-boi
abundant wildlife, including (see p47) musical influence, steeped in the vibrant rhythms of the
endemic species such as the Northeast. The last few decades saw the festival gaining in prominence.
white uakari monkey and black- Every June, at least 35,000 people crowd into Bumbódromo, a purpose-
headed squirrel monkey. The built stadium in the town center, to join in the revelries. The fantastic
annual flood transforms the life procession incorporates dazzlingly dressed participants, including
of the whole region. During the mythological beasts. The rivalry between the two competing camps,
the red Garantido and the blue Caprichoso groups, is expressed in
high-water season, fish invade
traditional songs. Over the years, this competitive spirit, which goes
the flooded forest and disperse
right down to who wears the most outlandish costume, has brought
seeds as they move about. More forth some radical and electrifying spectacles.
than 300 species of fish have
already been catalogued in the
reserve. Mamirauá is also home
to pink river dolphin, great egret,
and the rare scarlet macaw. The
Neotropic cormorant, whose
diet consists mainly of fish, can
be spotted swimming and
feeding in large, noisy flocks.
In the dry season, which lasts
from September to December,
one can walk on trails, or paddle
almost silently through them on
canoes. The preserve’s eco-
tourism program features a
range of activities, which Garantido in bright red headgear, gearing up for the contest
includes guided nature
Tranquil waters of the Rio Branco, flowing past Roraima’s capital Boa Vista
3 Boa Vista route from Boa Vista to Santa 4 Rio Branco

Roraima. * 285,000. k ~ @
Elena is dotted with some Acre. * 335,000. k ~ @ n Via
n Centro Turismo, (95) 3623 2365. interesting sights. The Chico Mendes s/n, Arena da Floresta,
∑ turismo.rr.gov.br 8 Roraima ecological island preserve of (68) 3901 3024.
Adventures, (95) 3624 9611. Ilha do Maracá, 62 miles (100
∑ roraima-brasil.com.br km) north of Boa Vista, is known Another relatively new state,
for its species preservation and Acre was annexed from Bolivia
Created in 1991, Roraima is one biodiversity. Fringed with groves in the early 20th century by a
of Brazil’s newest states, and Boa of cashew trees, the enchanting pioneering army of Brazilian
Vista is its capital city. While the Lago Caracaranã is located 112 rubber-tappers. It was founded
savannas surrounding it are an miles (180 km) north. in 1904, under the name of a
important cattle-ranching Santa Elena de Uairén offers rubber company, Seringal
territory, the gold rush of the the best access to the Parque Empressa, by Newtel Maia
1980s still drives development Nacional de Monte Roraima. from Ceará.
in the region. The park is ideal for trekking The Parque de Maternidade
The Praça Civica forms the through a variety of eco-niches has magically transformed a
heart of the town’s arch-shaped with changing vegetation to small town water canal into a
street layout. The modern climb Monte Roraima, a point long, green city walk. In the
Paláçio Municipal is here beside where Brazil, Guyana, and town center, just a couple of
the Monumento ao Garimpeiro, Venezuela meet. At 8,970 ft blocks north from the Rio Acre,
a local monument honoring the (2,734 m) above sea level, good which cuts the town in half,
gold miners who have brought camping equipment, guides, stands the Palácio Rio Branco.
significant wealth to this state. and preparation is essential. Though restored, the building
There are good swimming Several Boa Vista-based maintains its original Neo-
beaches on the Rio Branco, only companies offer excellent week- Classical façade with four
15 minutes by bus from Boa long packages. International columns at the entrance.
Vista. The sandy beaches right in visitors require a Venezuelan It was built in the 1930s as
the town center, opposite the tourist card, which can be headquarters for the state
Orla Taumanam, offer excellent obtained at the Venezuelan government, and retains a good
swimming when the river is low. consulate in Boa Vista. collection of period furniture
Environs
Boa Vista is blessed with lush
tropical rainforest, endless
stretches of savanna plains, and
pretty river beaches, which
make the surrounding region
well worth exploring. Though
ecotourism is still in its initial
stages, organized tours are
fairly developed.
A significant staging port en
route south to Manaus or north
to Guyana and Venezuela, Boa
Vista is easily connected by bus
to the Venezuelan town of
Santa Elena de Uairén, located
147 miles (237 km) north. The Rio Branco city on the banks of Rio Acre
from the 1940s and 1950s.

A main feature of the palace,
the largest painting in Brazil,
depicts a scene in homage to
the revolutionary heroes who
liberated Acre from Bolivia.
The palace also contains several
large rooms dedicated to the
prehistory and history of the
region. The main focus is on the
20th-century history of Acre, and
there is a superb room dedicated
to indigenous culture, displaying
some stupendous feather
headdresses. Artifacts relating
to local history and tribes are
also displayed in the palace. Visitors walking through the ruined Forte Príncipe da Beira, Guajará-Mirim
A few blocks north, the Museu
da Borrachá (Rubber Museum) 5 Porto Velho in 1912 was just in time to
focuses on the fascinating local Rondônia. * 425,000. ~ @ g
witness the collapse of Brazil’s
ethnic culture, rubber-tappers, n Departamento do Turismo, rubber industry.
and ayahuasca churches, known (69) 3216 5973.
for their ceremonial use of Environs
hallucinogenic herbs. A very fast growing jungle Guajará-Mirim is on the Bolivian
Rio Branco is transforming city, Rondônia’s capital, Porto border. From here, it is possible
the city’s south bank of the Rio Velho, has grown out of a few to visit the lonely jungle fort, the
Acre, which was the focal point streets beside the giant Rio Forte Príncipe da Beira, built by
during the rubber boom and Madeira in the last 100 years. the Portuguese in 1773.
until the new north-based River trips to the nearby beach The Reserva Biologica do
commercial center emerged of Santo Antônio are popular Guaporé near Costa Marques
in the mid-20th century. The for freshly cooked fish at a town, which is located 12 miles
municipality is restoring many waterside restaurant. (20 km) east of Principe de Beira
of the buildings, which once The star attraction, however, town, is known for its diverse bird
served the river port as hotels, is the Madeira-Mamoré Museu species. The Ibama in Porto Velho
bars, and a splendid movie Ferroviário, where several arranges trips for researchers.
theater, as well as merchants’ steam locomotives, some under
stores, making for a lively cover, still defiantly symbolize a E Madeira-Mamoré Museu
rusting industrial vision in the Ferroviário
atmosphere. The promenade, Praça Madeira-Mamoré. Open 8am–
middle of the Amazon jungle. In
La Gameleira, makes a perfect noon, 2–6pm Mon–Fri. & 7
the main museum shed, there
location for a riverside walk. Tel (69) 3901 3651.
are interesting exhibits from the
The Parque Ambiental Chico
turn of the 19th century, when O Reserva Biologica do Guaporé
Mendes (Chico Mendes
the railway was being built. Av Cabixi com Limoeiro 1942.
Environmental Park) is located in
Unfortunately, its inauguration Tel (69) 3651 3782.
the former rubber plantation at
Itucumã near Vila Acre, 6 miles
(10 km) south of Rio Branco. It Chico Mendes (1944–88)
contains virgin forest areas, some
replica malocas (indigenous A rubber-tapper union leader and environmental
activist, Chico Mendes helped establish
longhouses) and rubber-tapper
the National Council of Rubber Tappers. His
dwellings, as well as a zoo and design for extractive rainforest preserves won
the Chico Mendes memorial. him recognition by the UN in 1987, with a
Global 500 award. He received another award
E Museu da Borrachá from the Better World Society, before his
Av Ceará 1441. Tel (68) 3223 1202. Open assassination by hired men employed by
Environmentalist
8am–6pm Tue–Fri, 4–9pm Sat & Sun. the ranchers on December 22, 1988. His
Chico Mendes
E Palácio Rio Branco untimely death brought international attention,
Praça E. Gaspar Dutra s/n. Tel (68)
for the first time, both to the plight of the rainforest and the
positive solution offered simply by harvesting the rainforest’s
3223 9241. Open 8am–6pm Tue–Fri,
fruits and sustainable products. Many leading Brazilian human
4–9pm Sat & Sun. 8 7 ^
rights activists, environmental campaigners, and church
O Parque Ambiental Chico organizations came together to establish the Chico Mendes
Mendes Committee, which successfully dedicated itself to seeing his
Rodovia AC-40 Km 7, Vila Acre. Tel (68) murderers brought to justice.
3221 1933. Open 7am–5pm Tue–Sun.
CENTRAL WEST
BRAZIL
Introducing Central
West Brazil 296–301
Brasília, Goiás &
Tocantins 302–317
Mato Grosso &
Mato Grosso do Sul 318–327
296  CENTRAL WEST BRAZIL
Introducing Central West Brazil

The Federal District of Brasília and four other states make up
Brazil’s Central West. Goiás and Tocantins in the east of the region BRAZIL
and Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul in the west, are areas
where the expansive wilderness of craggy cerrado-covered CENTRAL
WEST
plateaus, vast wetlands, rainforests, and deserts are beginning to BRAZIL
give way to industrialization. The slow pace of life in colonial

mining towns such as Cidade de Goiás and Pirenópolis is being
eclipsed by the urban attractions of cities such as Campo Grande
and Brasília. However, the Central West remains one of the best
regions in which to savor Brazil’s traditional rural way of life as
well as spot amazing wildlife.
Sinop
Comodoro
MATO GROSSO &
MATO GROSSO DO SUL
(See pp318–27)
Cristalino Jungle Lodge (see p323) is
situated on the banks of the Rio Cristalino, Cuiabá
in Alta Floresta. This region is rich in the
Amazon flora and fauna, and has a number
of splendid birding trails. Guided hiking
tours are also on offer. Rondonópolis
Corumbá
Campo
Grande
Bonito
Dourados
Bonito (see p327), a small, quiet town located at the southern edge
of the Pantanal, offers visitors light adventure activities such as
snorkeling in clear-water rivers, visiting caves, and hiking along short
wildlife trails.
Pantanal landscape
INTRODUCING CENTRAL WEST BRAZIL  297
Ilha do Bananal (see p315), one of

the world’s largest river islands,
contains rivers that extend up to
155 miles (250 km), and is home to
several indigenous peoples. A bird-
watcher’s paradise, the island’s wild
interior is not easily accessible.
Paraíso do
Norte
Gurupi
BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS
& TOCANTINS
(See pp302–17)
Uruaçu
Brasília (see pp306–9), the country’s

capital, is renowned for its Modernist
buildings, many of which were designed
Pirenópolis
Brasília by the noted architect Oscar Niemeyer.
Goiânia
Rio Verde
Três 0 km 150
Lagoas 0 miles 150
Pirenópolis (see pp312–13), a

picturesque former mining town
with colonial buildings and
impressive restaurants, is a popular
weekend retreat. It is also a base
for exploring the cerrado and the
region’s numerous waterfalls.
Creation of a Capital
President Juscelino Kubitschek and his team of designers,
planners, and architects, led by Oscar Niemeyer, envisaged
Brasília not only as a city, but also as a monument to the
national motto – Order and Progress. In creating this, they
turned to European Modernism, following the doctrine of
Charles-Edouard Jeanneret (1887–1965), or “Le Corbusier,”
for their inspiration. The concept stated that modern cities
should be zoned functionally with separate areas for
housing (in high-rise blocks), recreation, and administration,
broken by green belts and roads. Juscelino Kubitschek was the
president of Brazil between
1956 and 1961. He was
responsible for the creation
of Brasília as the new, modern
capital of the country.
The Missão Cruls was commissioned by President Floriano

Peixoto in 1892 and led by the Belgian scientist Luiz Cruls. It
sought to find a possible site for a new capital in the Brazilian
interior to make a more regionally neutral federal capital
where resources could be equally divided.
Eixo Rodoviária Sul is

one of the main roads
in the “wings” connect
ing Brasília from one
end to the other.
The candangos were

workers from the Northeast
brought to Brasília in vast
numbers to build the city. Brasília
Homes for their descendants
were not included in the
Located at the heart of the country,
grand plan and today Brasília Brazil’s capital city is today on UNESCO’s
is ringed with the slum cities list of World Heritage Sites, and is famous
of their children. for its innovative urban planning and
daring architecture.
1934 Possibility of a 1960 Brasília inaugurated,

1892 Luiz Eisenhower visits
Cruls sent new capital formally 1961–64 Work
to explore discussed 1946 Land on remaining
the area demarcated for buildings
Dom Bosco (1815–88) a capital continued
1880 1900 1920 1940 1960
Catedral
1883 Dom Bosco predicts Metropolitana 1956 Juscelino
a new civilization arising Kubitschek elected
between the15th and 1922 Foundation as president;
20th parallels of latitude stone for a future Project Brasília
city laid begins
Oscar Niemeyer
Born in Rio de Janeiro in 1907, Niemeyer went on
to become one of the most important names in
modern architecture. His first job was with
Le Corbusier and Lúcio Costa on Rio’s Ministry
of Education in 1936. After this he went on to
design a series of landmark buildings such as the
Contemporary Museum of Art in Niterói (see p93).
Niemeyer’s socialist beliefs led to his exile under
Lúcio Costa and Roberto Burle MarxMarx, the urban the coup of 1964. He returned to Rio in the 1980s
planner and the landscape designer behind Brasília, and continued to work. He died in 2012.
intended that every element, from the layout of
the residential and administrative districts to the
symmetry of the buildings, should be in harmony
with the city’s overall design.
Ministerial buildings were built to

flank Praça dos Três Poderes and Eixo
Monumental (see pp306–7).
Oscar Niemeyer at his office in Rio de Janeiro
Original pen and ink drawings submitted by

Lúcio Costa in 1956 in the competition for a new
capital city show Brasília’s distinctive shape, which
has been variously interpreted as an airplane, a bird
in flight, and a bow and arrow.
Superquadra 309, a The Juscelino Kubitscheck

residential neighborhood,
Bridge, designed by architect
was built in one of the
“wings” of Brasília. Alexandre Chan, opened in 2002.
The striking steel and concrete
bridge links the eastern shore of
Lake Paranoá to the center of the
city and has become a landmark.
The inauguration of Brasília by President

Juscelino Kubitschek on 21 April 1960 was
attended by thousands of people. The
new capital saw the installation of the
three powers of the republic – parliament,
judiciary, and presidency.
Flora & Fauna in the Cerrado

The Brazilian cerrado (meaning impenetrable in Portuguese)
is a biome unique to South America and is the tropical
world’s largest woodland savanna. The cerrado landscape is
made up of scattered woods and vast swathes of grassland
along riverbanks and in small valleys. One of the richest
ecosystems in the world, the cerrado is home to almost
every species of large mammal found in South America,
Key
together with an enormously prolific birdlife. The cerrado The cerrado
landscape is home to some 10,000 plant species, of which The Pantanal
4,400 are endemic to the region.
Hyacinth macaws are an

endangered species due
to overcollection for the
caged-bird trade. They are
also hunted by the Kayapó
people (see p266), who use
their bright blue feathers in
their headdresses.
The cerrado, a sprawling
1.2-million-sq-mile
(3-million-sq-km) mix of
forest and savanna, covers
75 percent of Brazil.
Capybaras, abundant in the cerrado, are semi-

aquatic, herbivorous rodents. They live in herds The marsh
and spend most of their time feeding on river- deer is
banks, where they are easily spotted during generally a
mornings and evenings. solitary animal,
or lives in herds
of fewer than
six. It has
webbed feet
The rhea is a large, which help
flightless bird native it walk on
to South America. flooded land.
Because rheas will
eat almost any
crop plant,
farmers
sometimes kill The maned wolf is the
the birds. This, only large canid in the
along with egg world that does not form
gathering and packs. The animal, now
habitat loss, has led endangered, was hunted
to a significant drop in their by poachers for its body
numbers. The species is parts, notably the eyes,
listed among the wildlife which were believed to
of “special concern.” be good-luck charms.
Buriti Palms often

grow over subter- Conservation of the Cerrado
ranean water. They are
an important source of Central Brazil’s ancient cerrado forests are
food for many large rapidly being cleared for soya plantations and
parrots and primates. cattle ranches. Since the late 1990s, steps have
been taken to identify conservation-priority
areas and better manage protected areas.
Savanna Recently, private reserves, established under
formations in the the Private Natural Heritage Reserve system,
Tractors paving the way for a new
cerrado are not have become an important component of
homogenous. Hilly farm in the cerrado
areas have denser,
biodiversity protection in the cerrado. There
more varied flora have also been more intensive faunal and floral surveys of the region. In 2016,
than the grasslands. an agreement between the state authorities, landowners, and conservation
groups set out an urgent action plan to protect designated reserves.
Ipê Tree is a large canopy tree. Its vibrant trumpet-

shaped flowers bloom in spectacular yellow, pink,
and mauve throughout the cerrado.
Flora in the Cerrado

The cerrado is characterized by its vast expanses
of grassland, scattered forests, and palm groves.
The landscape varies between the “open
cerrado,” predominantly grassland, without
trees and shrubs, and “closed cerrado,” the more
forested areas.
Flora & Fauna of Pantanal

Although the world’s largest wetland forms part of
the southern extreme of the cerrado, the Pantanal
The white-necked heron
(see pp324–5) comprises habitats most associated
is a common sight in the
with the Amazon. Many cerrado species live here, as Pantanal, especially
well as marsh deer, capybara, caimans, waterbirds, along riverbanks,
and monkeys. where it feeds.
This graceful bird builds
its nest on a platform on
trees close to the river.
Guira cuckoos
are slightly
scruffy-looking
birds that nest,
roost, and feed
Caiman numbers in the Pantanal have in groups, eat-
increased after a ban on hunting them for ing insects,
their skin and teeth (considered charms frogs, and eggs
against witchcraft) took effect. off the ground.
brasÍlia, goiÁs &

tocantins
The capital of brazil since 1960, brasília is the region’s only
metropolis. its striking city plan and futuristic architecture make it
vastly different from any other city in the country. Goiás and Tocantins
make up brazil’s heartland. Northern Goiás and Tocantins are mainly
wilderness areas of mountains and dry savanna, while in the south lie
the colonial towns of Pirenópolis and Goiás Velho.
Until the mid-20th century, only and a favorite watering hole for nearby
bandeirante slavers and gold hunters Brasília’s middle class. The Utopian, but
had ventured into the wilderness of impersonal, capital city sits on an exposed
central Brazil, a land of cerrado (savanna) plain under an expansive sky. Its brave
woodland, mesetas (tabletop mountains), new domes, churches, and steel-
and giant winding rivers, peopled by reinforced monoliths, now ringed with
indigenous groups such as the Xavante. favelas, should not be missed.
Some gold prospectors stayed on, Northern Goiás and Tocantins remain
building a handful of colonial towns frontier lands, where fields of soya are
near their mines. Cidade Goiás and fast encroaching upon the foothills of
Pirenópolis in central Goiás are very well the mesetas in Chapada dos Veadeiros
preserved, so much so that the former National Park, the dune-filled expanses
is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. of the Jalapão cerrado, and indigenous
Pirenópolis is famous for its festivals, the lands on the world’s largest river island,
liveliest of which, the Festa do Divino Ilha do Bananal. The scenery here is
Espírito Santo, re-enacts the battles spectacular, and adventure activities,
between the Christians and the Moors. such as canyoning and rappeling, are
The city is also a center for ecotourism, well developed.
The Palácio do Itamaraty (Palace of Arches), one of the most impressive modern buildings in Brasília
Tribute to Northeast Brazil’s migrant workers, Bruno Giorgio’s sculpture Os Candangos, in Brasília, the city they helped build
Exploring Brasília, Goiás & Tocantins

Cidade de Goiás and Pirenópolis in Goiás remain pleasant
colonial towns, while the spectacular Chapada dos Veadeiros
National Park in northern Goiás showcases the unique flora and Pontão
fauna of high-altitude cerrado. Brasília, the capital city of Brazil

from 1960 onward, was built from the dust and scrub of the
Garimpinho
central western cerrado, and is a Modernist marvel. In Tocantins
state, the Ilha do Bananal, one of the largest islands in Brazil, is
also the point at which three ecosystems converge – rainforest,
cerrado, and wetland. The dune deserts of Jalapão in Tocantins
are fringed by dry sertão, vast horizons of soya farms, waterfalls,
Araguacema
crystalline rivers, and forests inhabited by the Xavante and
Xingú indigenous groups.
Caseara
ia
gua
Paraíso do
Coco Norte
Ara
Pium
ia
DO BANANAL
ço enor do Rio Aragua

Cristalândia
Form
Dueré
oso
Gurupi
M
ILHA
Bra
Alvovorada
ta Teresa
São Miguel San
do Araguaia
Bandeirante Porangatu
Mara Rosa
Crixás Uruaçu
çu
Mozarlândia
sA
ixá
Aruanã Barro
Cr
Alto
Rio Preto waterfall at Chapada dos Veadeiros Araguapaz Rialma
Goianésia
Cuiabá
CIDADE
Aragarças DE GOIÁS
Sights at a Glance PIRENÓPOLIS
São Luís de Anápolis
Towns & Cities Piranhas Montes Belos
a
Turvo
ai
1 Brasília pp306–9
Goiânia
gu
a
Ar Caiapônia
2 Pirenópolis pp312–13 GOIÁS Hidrolândia
3 Cidade de Goiás e
Verd Edéia
5 Palmas Mineiros
Cl
ar
Jataí Rio Verde

o
National Parks & Areas of

Natural Beauty Goiatuba
PARQUE NACIONAL
4 Parque Nacional Chapada DAS EMAS V Quirinópolis
erd Itumbiara
dos Veadeiros pp316–17 e
São Paulo
6 Jalapão
Itarumã
7 Ilha do Bananal
8 Parque Nacional das Emas
BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS & TOCANTINS  305
Araguatins
Sitio Novo
do Tocantins Teresina
Xambioa Tocantinópolis
Araguana
ns
anti
Wanderlândia
Toc
Araguaína
Piaca
Craolândia
Se
Verme
rr Itacajá
a
do
lho
s
Pa
re Ministry buildings, Catedral Metropolitana, and Museu Nacional, in Brasília
Pedro Afonso
ns
ci
nti
s
Perdid
Toca
a
Miracema do
Tocantins
Lizarda Getting Around
T O C A N T I NS Travel inevitably begins in Brasília. There is an international
Sono airport, and flights connecting with most larger Brazilian cities,
PALMAS including frequent flights to Goiânia in Goiás and Palmas in
L A P ÃO Tocantins. Roads radiate out from these cities to other towns and
JA
states cutting through the harvest land and the stunning
Porto
Nacional Ponte Alta La TrÍs scenery. Pirenópolis, a weekend getaway from Goiânia, is reached
do Norte Rios from Brasília via a filigree of small roads and regular buses. There
are daily buses to Cidade de Goiás from Goiânia via the BR-070.
Natividade Dianópolis The Chapada dos Veadeiros, which, together with Pirenópolis,
Man
u el A Salvador
boasts the best ecotourism infrastructure, is reached from the
lves
Peixe a
little towns of São Jorge or Alto Paraíso in northern Goiás. These
lm are connected to Brasília via the GO-118. Apart from the main
Tagu
Pa
Paranã
atinga north–south artery, the BR-153, transportation in Tocantins is
Tocan
difficult. Ilha do Bananal in the west and Jalapão in the east are
Paran
remote and best visited on tours.

tins
Campos Belos
Monte Alegre
de Goiás São
PARQUE NACIONAL Domingos
CHAPADA DOS VEADEIROS
Alta Paraiso Iaciara

de Goiás
Niquelândia Mambai
São João
da Aliança
Formosa
BRASÍLIA
Gama
Luziânia
Cristalina
Vianópolis
0 km 100
Pires
do Rio Belo 0 miles 100
Horizonte
Verde
Catalão
Key
Represa de
Emborcação Major road
São Paulo
Minor road
State border
Sweeping sand dunes in Jalapão
1 Brasília
Brasília is the embodiment in concrete of President Juscelino
Kubitschek’s promise of “fifty years of economic and social
development in five,” and of the national motto – Order and
Progress. The city was built by vast teams of candangos,
workers from the Northeast, who carved it from the cerrado
at breakneck speed. They were led by urban planner Lúcio
Costa, architect Oscar Niemeyer
Niemeyer, and landscape engineer
Roberto Burle Marx (see p299). The capital of Brazil shifted
from Rio de Janeiro to Brasília on April 21, 1960. Brasília was
added to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1987 as an
example of daring urban planning and modern architecture.
Aerial view of the Eixo Monumental
Today, Brasília is a stately, organized city, albeit a little quiet.
Memorial dos Povos TV Tower is the best place

Quartel General Indígenas is fashioned like to get a bird’s-eye view of
do Exército a maloca, a traditional the city. The observation
longhouse. It is a tribute to deck is on top of the 426-ft-
Brazil’s indigenous peoples. (75-m-) high building.
VIA
N-1
OE
STE
NORTE
W3
VIA
V IA
S-1
OE
STE
0 meters 250
0 yards 250 VIA

S-1
PARQUE SARA OES
TE
VI
KUBITSCHEK A
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2
L
SU
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W
A
Eixo Monumental
VI
The Eixo Monumental, Brasília’s main thoroughfare, forms the

centerpiece of the city. Kubitschek stands at one end of the Eixo,
waving from his towering Modernist column to the seat of govern
ment, the Congresso Nacional and Palácio do Planalto, which sit
around the Praça dos Três Poderes. Many of Brazil’s most famous
architects and sculptors were involved in its construction.
Memorial Juscelino Kubitschek

Built in honor of the president
responsible for the construction of
Brasília, this monument contains Quartel General do Exército
his mausoleum, with photographs This fusion of curves, straight lines, and jagged waves echoes the
of, and documents about, the Congress complex and is the headquarters of the Brazilian army –
construction of the city. at times the key player in affairs of state.
BRASÍLIA  307
Esplanada dos
Ministérios
Tall ministry buildings,
19 in all, are lined up in
Brasília Distrito Federal.
rows along Esplanada
* 2,200,000.n Tourist Office,
dos Ministérios,
Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek
with the Juscelino
International Airport, (61) 3364
Kubitscheck bridge in
9102. ∑ wbrasilia.com/cat.htm
the background.
Transport
k Presidente Juscelino
Kubitschek International Airport,
(61) 3033 9000.
Os Candangos
Artist Bruno
Giorgio’s Os
Candangos was
built in homage to
the thousands of
Congresso Nacional e Anexos migrant workers from
Oscar Niemeyer’s most famous and celebrated group of Northeast Brazil who
Modernist buildings at the heart of Brasília is also Brazil’s went by this nick
seat of government. name and who
helped build Brasília.
Teatro Nacional,
a set of four theaters,
is the most important
in the city.
Esplanada dos
RTE
Ministérios
Palácio do Planalto,
O
Estação
or the President’s Office, is
L2 N
Central
one of Niemeyer’s best
VIA
VIA
Rodoviária N-1
OES
examples of Modernist
TE architecture.
O W
VIA
O L
N-2
INH
INH
EIX
ESPLANADA DOS
EIX
MINISTÉRIOS
AO
VIA
Fundaçās S-1
EIX
UL
OE
Biblioteca STE
L2 S
Nacional VIA
VIA
Estação S-2
Galeria
Museu Nacional Palácio de Justiça,
Honestino Guimarães, the building of the
a perfect white dome, is Ministry of Justice,
another of Niemeyer’s has a beautiful
buildings. internal garden.
Catedral Metropolitana
Nossa Senhora
Aparecida
Niemeyer’s iconic
cathedral with its curved
columns and stainedglass Supremo Tribunal Federal
interior is flanked by The highest court in the country, the
haunting sculptures of Supremo Tribunal Federal is the seat of
the four apostles. Brazil’s judicial power.
Exploring Brasília
The capital of Brazil, Brasília,
is shaped like an airplane in
homage to what was then
the incipient jet age. While
to its north and south lie the
residential wings, the Eixo
Monumental (see pp306–7)
forms the body of the jet, with
the city’s major attractions.
Praça dos Três Poderes

Eixo Monumental. The interior of Santuário Dom Bosco, bathed in blue light
Congresso Nacional e Anexos:
Tel (61) 3303 4671. Open 8:30am– The latter’s Modernist columns R Santuário Dom Bosco
5:30pm daily. 7 Palácio do Planalto: seem to rise gently from the lily Av W3 Sul, Quadra 702. Tel (61) 3223
Tel (61) 3411 2042. Open 9:30am– pond lying at its feet to form 6542. Open 7am–7pm daily. ^
2:30pm Sun. Palácio Itamaraty: smooth arches. Inside is a The city’s finest church honors
Tel (61) 3411 6155. 8 9am, 10am,
vast hall decorated with fine the 19thcentury Italian
11am, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm Mon–Fri;
sculpture and paintings. The visionary saint and founder
9am, 11am, 2pm, 3pm, 5pm Sat & Sun.
Palácio da Justiça:Tel (61) 2025 3216.
highlight is 19thcentury artist of the Salesian order. His
Open 9–11am, 3–5pm Mon–Fri. Pedro Américo’s O Grito de proclamation that a new
Ipiranga, depicting the moment civilization would arise in the
This vast square is flanked by when Dom Pedro I proclaimed third millennium between the
buildings that form the locus of Brazilian Independence (see p56). 15th and 16th parallels of
the Brazilian government. The latitudes, inspired Kubitschek to
axis of the federal state, the R Catedral Militar de Nossa build Brasília on the edge of an
Congresso Nacional e Anexos is Senhora da Paz artificial lake. The stunning
a harmonious fusion of lines and Canteiro Central do Eixo Monumental interior features an almost
curves, creating the most Oeste. Tel (61) 3323 3858. seemless panoply of glass,
monumental and timeless Open 7am–8pm daily. which ranges from light to dark
architecture in the city. On the This brilliant white triangular blue and indigo, as it ascends. In
other side of the square are the church, with its jagged windows the late afternoon, shafts of
seats of two other branches of and vast gable, echoes the light penetrate the building,
power – the Palácio do Planalto, French Notre Dame du Haut, illuminating the marble statue
the executive office of the presi designed by Niemeyer’s mentor, of the Virgin and the vast cross
dency, and opposite it, the Le Corbusier. It was completed in whose vertical was carved from
Supremo Tribunal Federal, the 1991, and was built to house the a single piece of tropical cedar.
Supreme Court headquarters, papal altar used by John Paul II The church was blessed by John
which is closed to the public. on his visit to Brasília in 1980. Paul II on his 1980 visit.
Immediately below this group
of buildings are the Palácio Quartel General do Exército Templo da Boa Vontade
Itamaraty and the Palácio da Setor Militar Urbano. Setor Garagem Sul 915. Tel (61) 3114
Justiça, two of Brasília’s few At the northeastern end of the 1070. Open 24 hrs daily.
buildings that are more Eixo Monumental, this vast Many religions, some orthodox,
aesthetic than monumental. complex of imposing buildings some decidedly alternative,
is set in a sea of lawns and thrive in and around Brasília.
watched over by a towering This marble pyramid with
obelisk. It was built during the seven open sides was built
military dictatorship and was to reflect the ecumenical
intended to show the presence attitude towards spirituality
of military power in the gov which characterizes the city.
ernment, which was notably The building’s geometry is
absent from the Praça dos Três based on multiples of seven in
Poderes. The intimidating accordance with sacred numer
stature of the buildings conveys ology. The sides rise to 69 ft (21
Niemeyer’s objective of m), the cavernous nave spans
constructing something grand 92 ft (28 m), and spiral steps
for the generals. He was wind around the interior. The
determined that the monu central portion of the temple
mentalism of these generals is illuminated by light, filtering
should not be eclipsed by through an enormous and
Palácio da Justiça with lily pond in that of President Juscelino priceless rock crystal found
the foreground Kubitschek (see p62). at Cristalino in Goiás.
BRASÍLIA  309
Catedral Metropolitana Nossa VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Senhora Aparecida Practical Information

Esplanada dos Ministérios.
Designed by Oscar Niemeyer to resemble a crown of thorns, Tel (61) 3224 4073.
this cathedral features 16 soaring curved pillars spread like Open 8am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Closed during masses: 12:15pm,
an open hand. Between them, a filigree of glass windows
6:15pm Tue–Fri, 5pm Sat, 8:30am,
is united by a fluid series of colors. The main altar and 10:30am, 6pm Sun
the altarpiece was given by Pope Paul VI in 1967, who ∑ catedral.org.br
also blessed the metal cross sitting atop the building.
The statues of the evangelists outside the cathedral are by
the Mineiro sculptor Alfredo Ceschiatti, who also sculpted
the archangels suspended from the ceiling inside.
The Catedral Metropolitana, etched against

a cloudy Brasília sky
Subterranean Entrance São Mateus

The remarkable entrance was intended to recall the catacombs Designed by
where Christ was interred, with visitors emerging out of darkness sculptor Alfredo
into the cathedral’s light. Ceschiatti (1918–
89), this 10-ft-
(3-m-) high
Curved Concrete Pillars, bronze figure of
all 16 of them, are held St. Matthew is
together at their apex by one of the four
a high-tensile steel ring. sculptures that
stand in front of
the cathedral.
Stunning Interior
Archangels hover over
the central altar, while the
light marble and ample
daylight infuse the entire
building with a
transcendent glow. The
glass panels in the interior
reflect sunlight from the
rippling water outside.
The breathtaking cachoeira (waterfall) that crashes into the Cânion do Rio Preto in the Parque Nacional Chapada dos Veadeiros, Goías
2 Pirenópolis
The picturesque town of Pirenópolis is gathered around the
Rio das Almas, surrounded by verdant cerrado woodlands,
and tucked away at the feet of low ragged hills. Pirenópolis
skillfully balances the old and the new, the traditional and the
contemporary. Crowned by Portuguese Baroque churches,
the cobbled streets clatter to the sound of cowboys on
horseback. The streets are lined with chic little restaurants,
housed in rustic 18th-century bungalows, or designed in low-
key 20th-century Art Deco style. The entire historical center
can be walked around in less than two hours. There are only a
few streets – the principal ones being Rua Direita, Rua da
Aurora, Rua do Bonfim, and Rua do Rosário, which has the
bulk of the restaurants. At weekends, a bustling crowd from Display of costumes from the Festa do
Brasília fills up the streets. Divino, Museu das Cavalhadas
E Museu das Cavalhadas

Rua Direita 39. Tel (62) 3331 1166.
Open 8am–8pm daily. &
This small museum contains
an incredible display of
Carnaval masks, ornate metal
armor costumes, photographs,
and folklore relating to the
hugely popular Festa do Divino
Espírito Santo. The festival
was originally Spanish but the
court costumes and the animal
masks are uniquely Brazilian,
originating from Afro-Brazilian
Souvenir shops selling traditional handicrafts on Rua Rui Barbosa and indigenous customs. The
collection occupies the ground
R Igreja Nosso Senhor Nossa Senhora do Rosário and floor of a home belonging to
do Bonfim has a plain white façade. The a family which has for genera-
Praça do Bonfim. Open during image of Nosso Senhor do tions played a central role in
mass: 10:30am Sun. Bonfim, in the main altarpiece, performances at the festival.
This simple but elegant little was brought here from Salvador
church on Rua do Bonfim was by a convoy of 250 slaves. F Teatro de Pirenópolis
built between 1750 and 1754. Praça da Matriz s/n. Tel (62) 3331 2029
One of the best-preserved R Igreja Matriz de Nossa (box office). Open 8–11am & 1–5pm
churches in Goiás, this modest Senhora do Rosário Mon–Fri, 9am–8pm Sat, 9am–3pm Sun.
Baroque building is archi- Praça da Matriz. Open check with This delightful, restored miniature
tecturally similar to Matriz de tourist office before visiting. 19th-century theater is one of
This parish church, founded the town’s hidden treasures and
in 1728, is the largest and the commemorated the centenary
oldest ecclesiastical building in of its foundation in 2001. The
Goiás. Until 2002, when the Teatro de Pirenópolis is best
entire attractive colonial edifice visited during one of the regular
was gutted in a fierce fire, plays, performances, and shows.
it also had one of the finest One of the most interesting small
Baroque interiors in the state. acts in the past has featured the
The church boasted an popular Mato Grosso do Sul-born
altarpiece decorated with motifs guitarist Almir Sater. The Goiás
taken from the flora of the singer-songwriter, Maria Eugenia,
surrounding cerrado, and an and the Tocantins forró singer,
impressive ceiling painted by Dorivã, regularly play here. Just
the Brazilian artist, Inácio Pereira around the corner, on the Rua do
Leal, in 1864. The church was Direita, is the little Art Deco Cine
restored and opened anew in Teatro Pireneus, whose eclectic
The well-maintained Igreja Nosso Senhor 2006, but a shortage of funds program includes films, plays,
do Bonfim has left it with a plain interior. concerts, and art exhibitions.
PIRENÓPOLIS  313
Festa do Divino Espírito Santo
This festival is based on Iberian lore dating from the Practical Information
Crusades and Catholic Whitsuntide celebrations, with Goiás. * 23,000.
n Central de Atendimento
the Cavalhadas horse parades as a central feature. The
festival begins 15 days before Pentecost Sunday, at ão Turista, (62) 3331 2633.
_ Festa do Divino Espírito
the Matriz, where a gathering of riders known as the
Cavalhadas parade Santo (May/Jun).
Folia do Divino proceed out of Pirenópolis into the
∑ pirenopolis.com.br
surrounding countryside. Masked dancers, parades of costume
horsemen dressed as Crusaders, Moors, or Cavalhadas, Transport
and many cultural and musical events follow. The festival culminates k @ Rodoviária, Rua Neco
on Pentecost Sunday in the stadium, the Cavalhadodrómo. Mendonça, (62) 3331 1080.
} Santuário de Vida pick-up points in town – an P Fazenda Babilonia

Silvestre Fazenda Vagafogo inexpensive way to get to the GO 431, Km3, Pirenópolis. Tel (62) 9294
4 miles (6 km) NW of Pirenopólis. sanctuary – or hire a cab. 1805. Open 9am–3:30pm Sat & Sun,
Tel (62) 3335 8515. Open 9am–5pm weekdays for groups of 10+ by appt.
daily. & & ∑ fazendababilonia.com.br
A beautifully preserved patch This late 18th-century fazenda
of forest lined with streams and used to be the largest sugar-
exquisite trails, Santuário cane refinery in Goiás. Founded
Vagafogo makes for a good by Joaquim Alves de Oliveira,
excursion. This stunning nature the fazenda also produced
preserve of cerrado and gallery manioc flour and cotton.
forests (forests along a river or Today, the well preserved
stream) is home to a number farm is still a working ranch.
of bird and animal species Visitors can take guided tours of
such as brown capuchins and the grounds, with its colonial
armadillos. The sanctuary offers wooden and terracotta-tiled
activities, such as tree climbling buildings and the chapel of
and rappelling. On weekends Nossa Senhora da Conceição,
and on holidays, a small which retains its glorious
restaurant at the visitors’ center original interior. The restaurant
serves fantastic fare. Visitors can A canopy walkway in the Santuário de serves local food made from the
hire a motorbike taxi from Vida Silvestre Fazenda Vagafogo fazenda’s own produce.
Pirenópolis
1 Igreja Nosso Senhor do
Santuário de Vida Silvestre
Bonfim Fazenda Vagafogo
4 miles (6 km)
2 Igreja Matriz de Nossa
R DO
Senhora do Rosário
CARM
3 Museu das Cavalhadas R DOS PI RENE

U S
PRAÇA
O
Igreja Nossa Senhora

4 Teatro de Pirenópolis do Carmo
DO
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RU
5 Santuário de Vida AD
R U A RU
A AU
Silvestre Fazenda RO
RA
Vagafogo
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I B A RB
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Rio BERIARCO
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SÁ
6 Fazenda Babilonia
SAYÃO
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RUA DO BONFIM
AV
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RU
R Ponte de
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Pedra do Bonfim
ONÇA D Có
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AT
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Museu das
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Cavalhadas
R U A N O VA
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RUA DA
Fazenda Babilonia P R AT A
17 miles (28 km)
RUA C
BRASÍLIA
0 meters 100
AV S I ZEN AND O
JAIM E
0 yards 100

5 Palmas
Tocantins. * 265,000. ~ @ (63)
3228 5600. n CATUR (Centro de
Atendimento ao Turista), (63) 2111
0213. _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar).
Built in 1989, Brazil’s newest

state capital sits at the base
of a range of forested low
hills. It is a pleasant, but
sprawling, modern city. Most
visitors come to Palmas as
it is a good jumping-off point
for the numerous attractions
A cobbled street lined with town houses in Cidade de Goías that lie within the interior
of Tocantins state, most
3 Cidade de Goiás monuments here. These include notably Jalapão and the Ilha
Goiás. * 29,000. ~ @ n
the Museu das Bandeiras, the do Bananal.
Secretaría de Turismo, (62) 3201 former seat of government, Aside from the vast Palmas
8100. _ Semana Santa (Apr), which preserves a forbidding lake formed by the dam on the
Festival Internacional de Cinema dungeon and a set of rooms Rio Tocantins, Palmas’ most
Ambiental (Jun). ∑ goiasturismo. with period furniture, a interesting area is its vast,
go.gov.br magnificent Baroque public grassy main square, Praça
fountain, Chafariz de Cauda, and Giróssois, which is lined by
Like most colonial towns in the Quartel do Vinte, an grandiose public buildings and
Brazil’s interior, Cidade de Goiás 18th-century barracks, which various monuments to its
grew rich on gold. Until the now houses the tourist office. founder, José Wilson Siqueira
middle of the 20th century, it Immediately north of Praça Campos, and his legacy.
was the capital of what was Brasil Caiado and capped with
once the largest Brazilian state an attractive, though modest,
apart from Amazonas. Also Baroque church is another
known as Goiás Velho, or just square, Praça do Coreto. The
Goiás, Cidade de Goiás is a most interesting of all the city’s
magical little city nestled at the museums, Museu de Arte Sacra
foot of the rugged Serra in the Igreja de Boa Morte, is
Dourado hills. Winding cobbled located here, preserving a series
streets lined with 18th-century of hauntingly lifelike religious
town houses lead to hills effigies by José Joaquim da
capped with churches, leafy Veiga Valle (1806–74), a self-
squares and little markets. Life taught sculptor. Opposite this
here seems to trot along as it museum is the Palácio Conde
has done for centuries. dos Arcos, complete with
While historic, Goiás is far 18th-century furniture and
from being lost in a bygone age. still used by the governor on The sparkling Rio Tocantins in Palmas
The city’s busy social calendar is city visits. at sunset
a testament to its successful
fusion of the old with the new. E Museu de Arte Sacra
There is something happening Praça do Coreto. Tel (62) 3371 1207. 6 Jalapão
almost every weekend through Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm
Sun. & Tocantins. 8 Korubo, (11) 9 8222
the year in Goiás, from 5028, ∑ jalapao.com; or Bananal
thoroughly traditional hooded E Museu das Bandeiras Ecotour (63) 3028 4200.
parades in Semana Santa (Holy Praça Brasil Caiado. Tel (62) 3371 1087.
Week) to some of the best Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm A journey through Brazil’s
world-cinema festivals and Sun. & interior would be incomplete
classical music concerts in Brazil. E Palácio Conde dos Arcos
without a visit to Jalapão.
Many buildings and museums Praça Dr. Tasso de Camargo. Tel (62) Located deep within eastern
testify to the city’s illustrious 3371 1200. Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sat, Tocantins, this breathtaking area
past, and Goiás is small enough 8am–noon Sun. & is one of South America’s great
to see them all leisurely on foot. wilderness destinations. Jalapão,
The best place to begin a tour is stretching across 13,130 sq miles
at Praça Brasil Caiado, the large 4 Chapada dos (34,000 sq km), is made up of
square which graces the town’s a state park, three private
southern end. There are a Veadeiros protected areas, and an
number of museums and See pp316–17. ecological station, Estação
BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS & TOCANTINS  315
Ecológica. The best time to visit a guide. Indigenous

is the dry season between June communities, including the
and September. Javaés and the Karajás, inhabit
Beyond the inaccessible the island, some of whom
reaches of southern Piauí, the produce carved wooden
arid cerrado forests and incipient animals and pottery figurines.
caatinga thornlands are more The southern part of the island
pristine here than anywhere also comprises seasonally
else. Many fast-flowing rivers cut flooded forests, lakes, and
through spectacular canyons swamps filled with wildlife. This
and thunder over myriad water- is a wonderful area for bird-
falls throughout Jalapão. A watching, particularly
number of rivers are born in waterbirds. There are also black
limpid glassy springs that caimans, which grow to an
bubble forth from the sands of immense size in the dark, fish-
Jalapão. Others wind their way filled waters.
through groves of buriti palms Dark waters of the Rio Javaés, one of Ilha
called veredas. These are visited do Bananal’s rivers
by Spix’s macaws and Brazilian 8 Parque Nacional
Merganser ducks, two of the 7 Ilha do Bananal das Emas
extremely rare birds lost to the Tocantins. * 3,500. 8 Bananal Goiás. n Rua do Bonfim, Centro
rest of the continent but still Ecotour Quadra 103-S, Loja 28, Palmas, Historico, (62) 3331 2633.
found in Jalapão. (63) 3028 4200. 8 Drena, Rua Aurora 21, Centro
Towering over Jalapão’s Histórico Pirenópolis, (62) 9291 3017 .
seemingly interminable plains The Rio Araguaia runs from ® Fazenda Santa Amélia, (64)
and striding out to the endless southern Goiás across Tocantins 3634 1380.
horizons are stands of state to join the Rio Tocantins
monolithic tabletop mountains, before draining into the Tucked far away in the
winding yellow sand dunes, and Amazon. In the middle of this southwest corner of Goiás and
craggy rock pinnacles. The air river sits the Ilha do Bananal, an surrounded by a sea of soya,
is so clear that even when island so vast that it has its own Emas National Park is a
these are far in the distance, rivers running through it and 500-sq-mile (1,300-sq-km) island
they appear close enough to contends with Ilha de Marajó of grassland and sparse cerrado,
touch. Trails running across (see p274) for the title of the dotted with millions of termite
the mountain summits range world’s largest river island. hills and cut by blackwater
from moderate to difficult, Access to the island’s wild rivers. The park is considered the
depending on the experience interior is not easy. Visits here best preserved cerrado in the
of the hiker. are only possible with a licensed country. In 2001, it was
The views from the top of tour operator. designated a UNESCO World
the mountains and dunes are Three ecosystems converge Heritage Site.
mesmerizing. But for the on the island – rainforest, Populations of larger
whistling breeze, it is so silent wetland, and cerrado. Bananal’s mammals, particularly the
that the infrequent pick-ups southern extremes are mostly armadillo, maned wolf, and
running across the very few dirt Terras Indígenas (indigenous puma, are so healthy here that
roads can be heard clearly even territories), where tourists are the park is a favorite location for
when they are quite a long not welcome. Its center and film crews from the BBC Natural
distance away. north are impenetrable without History Unit. It is also an
important destination for bird-
watchers, with the greatest
concentration of blue-and-yellow
macaws outside Amazônia.
Although there is no
compulsion to go on a guided
tour, it is a good idea to
organize a trip through a tour
operator in Pirenópolis, or
through the tourist office in the
nearby town of Chapadão do
Céu, east of the park. Facilities
at the park are minimal.
Accommodation is limited to
very rustic, simply appointed
Fazenda Santa Amélia in
A breathtaking view of Tocantins landscape from a dune, Jalapão Chapadão do Céu.
4Parque Nacional Chapada

dos Veadeiros
Named for the marsh deer that inhabit the area, this
national park sits on the edge of the cerrado, one of the
largest areas of wild country in the interior of Brazil. Most
easily accessed from the small town of Alto Paraíso, the
park is set in a stunning landscape. The surrounding area
is just as magical; sprawling forest is broken up by rushing
waterfalls and meadows, and dotted with stands of buriti
palms. This remarkably isolated destination offers truly
spectacular walks and pretty trails for nature lovers as
well as exciting outdoor adventure activities, such as Buriti palm groves, widely scattered in
the Chapada
rappeling and canyoning.
Ri o Ro nc
ad or
Morro da Chapéu
. Cânion Rio Preto 3,300 ft (1,000 m)
The narrow gorges of the Rio Preto, which runs
Colinas
through the middle of the park, cut into the
sandstone cliffs. The most stunning precipice has A
N
waterfalls gushing down the cliffs. TA
N
SA
E reto
D oP
Ri O
R RA ET
SE PR
O
RI
A
RR
SE
Cachoeira
Cânion I
Cariocas
Cânion II el
Cachoeira do gu
Rio Preto
i
oM
Sã
Salto do Rio Preto Rio
São Jorge UA
DA L
VALE
Giant Anteater
One of the larger mammals in the
Chapada, the giant anteater is a
common sight.
Vale da Lua The light in
this shallow canyon is
0 km
particularly beautiful at
10
sunset. The rocks have
0 miles 6 been sculpted into
strange Daliesque shapes
by the Rio São Miguel.
BRASÍLIA, GOÍAS & TOCANTINS  317
Chuveirinho Flower
The cerrado has thousands of
endemic plants and one of the
highest numbers of species
Goías. n Av Ari Valadão, Alto
found in a single area. One such
Paraíso, (62) 3446 1159; São Jorge,
indigenous plant is this unusual
(62) 3455 1090. ® in Alto Paraíso.
meadow flower.
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. Best
time to visit is April–October. &
8 visits are permitted only with
a guide, available at the park
entry station. Only 450 visitors
may enter the park at any one
s
go time and for day trips only.
São Domin Palmas
Rio
a Transport
an
@ from Brasília to Alto Paraíso,
nt
S a
Morro do Mresto
Rio then bus.
3,775 ft (1,150 m)
A
N
TA
Key
N
SA
os
Highway
E
lar
D
sC
Minor road
A
te
R
on
Trail
SE
oM
SERRA POUSO A
Ri
L TO Park boundary
Peak
Morro Capäo Grosso

5,050 ft (1,540 m)
Morro Peito de Moça

5,000 ft (1,525 m)
o
ret Cachoeira
oP
AS
Ri Aqua Fria
s
Cobra
BR
s Cachoeira
o
ur
O
Rio Cristal
das
Rio do Co
S C
Rio
Morro da Baleia
DA
4,900 ft (1,495 m)
A
RR
Alto Paraíso Adventure Sports

SE
de Goiás The Chapada is one of the most

popular places in Brazil for outdoor
adventure sports such as abseiling
Morro daBuracão Fazenda Brasília and canyoning.
5,500 ft (1,675 m) São Bento
ga
s
çe
mé
Rio Al
Trekking . Cachoeira Almeçegas

The Chapada is home to several forest A picturesque many-tiered waterfall drops over
trails, which are perfect for avid hikers and 260 ft (80 m) into deep pools, which are good for
nature lovers. swimming. Access is along a rather tortuous trail.
MATO GROSSO & MATO

GROSSO DO SUL
Once a destination for explorers and gold hunters, today Mato
Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul attract avid nature lovers. The
world’s largest wetland and a vital ecosystem, the Pantanal straddles
both states. Blessed with crystalline rivers and spectacular national
parks, and dotted with ranches and farms, this vast region is still home
to a large population of indigenous groups.
Explorations of Mato Grosso were limited to difficult to see in the closed forests of
nature expeditions and Jesuit missionaries the Amazon, it is visible in abundance
until the discovery of gold in the 18th here. From July to October, storks, ibis,
century. The gold rush led to clashes herons, and huge, colorful parrots
between Europeans and indigenous swarm the Pantanal, and can even be
groups. Many of these groups, such as the seen while driving along dirt roads. The
Bororo and Kayapó, still live in this state. wetlands are home to a diverse range of
The building of Brasília as the new wildlife, including the anaconda, the
capital of Brazil brought waves of migrant elusive jaguar, and giant otter.
workers to the Central West in the mid- Outside the Pantanal, large tracts of
20th century. In 1979, the state was split farmland are broken by low mountains and
into Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul, giant, sluggish rivers. Amazon forests cling
divided by the star attraction of the region, on in places such as Alta Floresta, Chapada
the wetlands of the Pantanal. dos Guimarães, and Bonito despite the
Very few places in the world can boast expansion of the soya industry. The entire
such enormous numbers of large birds region offers prime opportunities for bird-
as the Pantanal. While wildlife can be watching, angling, and snorkeling.
Capybara, the largest rodent in the world, frequently spotted in water ponds of the Pantanal
Snorkelers in the Lagoa Misteriosa, Mato Grosso do Sul
320  CENTRAL WEST BRAziL
Exploring Mato Grosso &

Mato Grosso do Sul
Recreio
Both Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul are
regions of enormous plains with a handful of
mountain ranges. The main attraction of this
Barracão
region is the Pantanal, the world’s largest Panelas do Barreto
wetland. This harbors an important
Jur
T h e o d o re
uen
ecosystem with varied fauna such as
a
ALTA FLORESTA
caimans, jaguars, and a profuse variety of
nco
Juruena
Bra
Aripuanã
birds. Cuiabá, Corumbá, and Campo Grande
Roo
Api Itapulúna
acá
Morerú
are good springboards for ecotourists who
seve
Pe
lt
wish to travel into or through the Pantanal. Alta ixe
s
Juara
Floresta, in the extreme north of Mato Grosso, is Juína
considered one of the best places for spotting rare Porto dos
Gaúchos Óbidos
birds and mammals. Bonito, in Mato Grosso do Sul, is Brasnorte
Porto
an area of plunging waterfalls, caves, and crystal-clear
Ar i
Velho
S an
nos
é
rivers – ideal for walks through mountains and forests, ar
gu
ar Juruena
e
and rafting and snorkeling. Flowing from central Mato am
Grosso, the Rio Xingú has indigenous peoples from Comodoro
C
Utiariti MATO
nine distinct ethnic groups living along its banks. GROSSO
S e r ra d e S
Juruena
Verde
Parecis
Sights at a Glance Nobres
Faz. Itanorte
ant
Towns & Cities

Pontes-e-
a.B
1 Cuiabá Lacerda Barra do

Bugres
ár
6 Corumbá ar CUIABÁ
b
7 Miranda a
Várzea Grande
8 Campo Grande Porto Esperidião
Cáceres
es
9 Bonito
Gom
Poconé
Cori x a
A L
nto
National Parks & Areas of

Be
Natural Beauty
Porto Jofre
Gr
A N
2 Chapada dos Guimarães

an
de
3 Xingú
4 Alta Floresta
P A N T
Amolar
5 Pantanal pp324–5 rí
Paiaguás qua
Ta
CORUMBÁ
Barra Mansa
Porto
Esperança
MIRANDA
BONITO
Porto Jardim
Murtinho
Bela Vista
Jabiru storks, also known as tuiuiú, gather to feed in the Pantanal

M ato G r o s s o & M ato G r o s s o d o s u l  321
Santarém
Liberda d e
Peixoto de Villa Rica

u
Xing
Azevedo
Peixoto
de
ze S. José
A
vedo do Xingu
u Tapirapé
Miss
uá
ssa XINGÚ Porto Alegre
do Norte
ni
Suiá
Ma
Mis
Sinop s sur
aia
rr C
A
ul
Querência
ue
ne
Jatobá Gaúcha do
tes
Norte Garapu
or
ua ero
sM
Pl an a l t o do Canarana
ia
em
da
Clear water of the Rio Sucuri at Bonito

a ri
Rio
Arag
Ver
M at o Gro sso
M
ed
Areões Cocalinho
Mazargão Paranatinga
Nova Getting Around
Xavantino
CHAPADA DOS Distances are huge in these states and there are few
GUIMARÃES General paved roads. However, the capital cities – Campo
Carneiro Goiânia
Grande in Mato Grosso do Sul and Cuiabá in Mato
Poxoréu Grosso have airports with good connections to the
Jaciara Barra do
Guiratinga Garças rest of Brazil. Alta Floresta also has an airport.
Corumbá, Bonito, and Miranda in Mato Grosso do
Rondonópolis
Sul are connected to Campo Grande by fast,
comfortable buses. Tour operators are based in the
capital cities and in Corumbá and Bonito. Most can
s
te
en Goiânia organize bookings through their websites. Tours to

rr
Co the Pantanal are also organized, and usually enter
Promissão
Pedro Gomes the Pantanal by road and spend a couple of days
exploring in canoes, motorboats, or on horseback
Coxim
from a land base. Rented 4WD are also a possibility,
Paraíso though visitors would be limited to only a few tracks
Cassilândia
Camapuã MATO along the fringes that is suitable for such vehicles.
Rochedo GROSSO Inocência

Cox
DO SUL Aparecida
im
do Tabuado
CAMPO Água Clara
GRANDE
Três Lagoas
Sidrolândia
São Paulo
Bataguaçu
Maracaju Rio Brilhante Key
Dourados São Paulo Highway
Ivinheima Major road
ná
Ponta Porã
ra
Minor road
Pa
Naviraí 0 km 100
Amambaí Railroad
0 miles 100
International border
Iguatemi State border

The spectacular vista of the Chapada dos Guimarães plateau, Mato Grosso
1 Cuiabá The most interesting of the geodesic center, the tablelands

Mato Grosso. * 485,000. ~ @
city’s sights is the small of the Chapada dos Guimarães
n Sedtur, (65) 3613 9300. university-run Museu do ĺndio are reputedly imbued with
_ Festa de São Benedito (Jul). Marechal Rondon, in which energizing powers strong
some exquisite and priceless enough to reduce the speed of
Mato Grosso’s capital and the pieces of indigenous art are a car and said to be attractive to
warmest city in Brazil sits on kept. These include exhibits UFOs. While the residents of the
a low, languid plain at the of the Xavante, Bororo, and Chapada claim that this effect
foot of the Chapada dos Karajá peoples. The has been documented, skeptics
Guimarães hills. museum houses believe otherwise.
Situated on the banks some beautiful The little town has numerous
of the Rio Cuiabá, a Bororo and Rikbaktsa shops and cafés, and a daily fair
tributary of the Rio headdresses and superb selling local arts and crafts.
Paraguai, the city has pieces of Kadiwéu There are also several spiritual
some leafy squares Kadiwéu pottery, ceramics from Mato centers devoted to the New
and is known as the Museu Rondon Grosso do Sul. Age movement, which is
Cidade Verde or the growing in Brazil. Nature lovers
Green City. Cuiabá is also E Museu do ĺndio Marechal come here to admire the
a good starting point for Rondon scenery. The edge of the
excursions into the Pantanal, Av Fernando Correia da Costa. Chapada offers sweeping vistas
a vast wetland area Tel (65) 3615 8489. Open 8–11:30am, out over the patchy, remnant
(see pp324–5). 1:30–5:30pm Tue–Fri; 1–5pm Sat, Sun
Like Cidade de Goiás (see & hols. & ^
p314) and Ouro Preto (see
pp130–31), Cuiabá was originally
a flourishing gold-mining town, 2 Chapada dos
full of handsome buildings and Guimarães
fine churches. Almost all were
Mato Grosso. * 13,500. @ from
demolished in a spate of hasty Cuiabá. 8 Eco Turismo, Av Cipriano
modernization in the late 1960s. Curvo 655, Centro, (65) 3301 1393.
The town has lost most of the _ Festival de Inverno (Jul–Aug).
splendid works of José Joaquim ∑ chapadadosguimaraes.com.br
da Veiga Valle (1806–74), one
of the country’s great geniuses The town of Chapada dos
of the Baroque. Fortunately, Guimarães is set on a plateau
some of his exquisite crafts- of the same name. Said to be
manship can still be seen in up to 500 million years old,
the well-preserved, vast, the majestic honey-colored
rectangular interiors of the tablelands and escarpments of
modern concrete Catedral the plateau are among the
do Bom Jesus, which has an oldest rock formations in the Véu de Noiva, the highest waterfall in
unusual square, Moorish façade. world. As the continent’s Chapada dos Guimarães
M ATO G R O S S O & M ATO G R O S S O D O S U L  323
cerrado forests of the Mato 4 Alta Floresta

Grosso plains. There are several Mato Grosso. * 43,000.
waterfalls in the area, the most ~ to Cuiabá, then bus.
famous and tallest of which is n Anaconda Pantanal Operators,
the Véu de Noiva, or the Bridal (65) 3028 5990. 8 Cristalino Jungle
Veil Falls. Lodge, (66) 3512 7100.
Although the Chapada has ∑ cristalinolodge.com.br
seen far more aggressive
agricultural development than Situated in the extreme north of
its counterparts in Goiás and Mato Grosso, Alta Floresta sits
Tocantins, many upland bird on the edge of the pristine
species that are not found either southern Amazon rainforest,
in the Pantanal or the Amazonian and is a rapidly growing frontier
forests can be seen here. The town. This remote town is also a
high cerrado forests, savannas, thriving agricultural settlement.
and pasturelands of the Chapada Its surrounding areas are
hold a special attraction for bird- considered some of the best in A view out over the forests of the Rio
watchers, who come the Brazilian Amazon Cristalino preserve
here in droves to for spotting rare
catalog the variety birds and mammals. large Neotropical rainforest
of birds, and perhaps One of the highlights of mammals, including the
to catch a lucky glimpse Alta Floresta is the four- endangered white-nosed
of mammals, such star hotel, Floresta bearded saki monkey, brown
as maned wolves, Red-capped Amazônica, which titi monkey, giant river otter, and
ocelots, and black- cardinal, Alta serves as a base for the three-toed sloth, as well as
tailed marmosets. Floresta Cristalino Jungle Lodge jaguar, puma, and tapir are
(see p379). present and can often be
The Cristalino Jungle Lodge spotted here. Facilities for jungle
3 Xingú sits in the Cristalino Forest walks and viewing wildlife are
Mato Grosso. @ n Fundação
Reserve deep in the forest, excellent and include English-
Nacional do Índio (Funai), Rua 8, north of Alta Floresta. The speaking, specialist guides, two
Qd. 15, (65) 3644 1839, Cuiabá. lodge is situated on the banks 164-ft- (50-m-) high canopy
∑ funai.gov.br of the Rio Cristalino, which is towers, and a very good library
the blackwater tributary of the of decent field guides.
By the end of the 19th Rio Tapajós, whose blue waters Other more challenging
century all of the great Amazon flow into the Amazon at outdoor adventure activities,
tributaries had been explored Santarém (see p278). The lodge such as camping in the
and colonized, and their is most famous for the profuse forest, trekking, survival
indigenous peoples enslaved or birdlife surrounding it, as well as techniques, rappeling,
completely wiped out. The an enormous variety of canyoning, and canoeing, can
remote region of Xingú, in the butterflies and other insects, also be arranged through the
extreme northeast of Mato reptiles, and mammals. All the Cristalino Jungle Lodge.
Grosso, was the only indigenous
settlement to survive the
onslaught and be established
as a preserve.
Home to one of the largest
areas of tribal lands in the
country, it sits as a huge island
of forest in a vast ocean of soya
plantations. These tracts of land
are concentrated around the
beautiful clear-water Rio Xingú.
Known to be sophisticated, the
indigenous peoples flourishing
in the Xingú specialize in
furniture-making and basket-
weaving, among other things.
Tourism is extremely
limited here and visits to
indigenous villages can only
be undertaken with prior
permission from Fundação
Nacional do Índio (Funai). Cristalino Jungle Lodge, in the Rio Cristalino Forest Reserve, Alta Floresta
5 Pantanal
The world’s largest wetland, the Pantanal provides a habitat
for the greatest concentration of animals in the Western
Hemisphere. Innumerable waterbirds gather toward the
end of the dry season. There are plenty of reptiles and large
mammals, including caimans, tapirs, giant anteaters, and
all of Brazil’s eight feline species. The secret to the vast
Green Kingfisher
numbers of animals lies in the diversity of vegetation and The green kingfisher is one of five
the geography of the Pantanal, a gently sloping bowl which types of kingfisher to inhabit the
floods when nutrient-rich tributaries drain from the ancient Pantanal. It is seen on the banks
sedimentary rocks of the Brazilian Shield and get trapped. of small, undisturbed rivers and
makes its nest in a tunnel.
Aquatic plants breed profusely and these provide ample food
for fish and birds, who, in turn, feed the rest of the food chain.
Barra do
Bugres
Sepotuba
ai
gu
Porto
ra
Estrela
Pa
Santa
Bárbara
Ba
rb
ad
o Porto Ja
uru
Cáceres
Esperidião
Aguapeí
es
om
San Matías
oG
nt
Be
Pixaim
Anhinga
Corixa
The anhinga is a relative of the cormorant and is
Parag
a common sight in the Pantanal. As it has no wax
Gra
uai
nd
in its feathers, it must dry its wings in the sun e

after diving for fish.
P N d o P a nt a na l
Ma t o g ro s s ens e
Amolar
0 km 50
Paiaguás
0 miles 50
ai
gu
ra
Pa
Corumbá
Urucum
Brahmin Cattle Piraputangas
The most common
animals in the Pantanal are Puga
Brahmin cattle who are Carandazal
herded by local cowboys, Bodoquena
or pantaneiros.
São Simão
KEY
1 The Estrada Parque dirt road

cuts through the southern Pantanal
and leads to the wildlife-rich
region of Nhecolândia. Like the Key
Transpantaneira, it is lined with
Major road
fazendas (farms). Porto
Minor road Murtinho
2 The Parque Nacional do
Pantanal Matogrossense formally Railroad
protects a small percentage of International border Caracol
the Pantanal UNESCO World San
San
Heritage Site. Lázaro
Carlos
. Estrada Transpantaneira VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The dirt road of Estrada
Transpantaneira is lined with Practical Information
fazendas, many of which Mato Grosso & Mato Grosso do
have accommodation for Sul. n Av Afonso Pena 4909,
tourists. Wildlife viewing is Campo Grande.
excellent and the road is Tel (67) 3314 3142.
navigable in a normal car. 8 organized tours available in
Campo Grande & Cuiabá. The dry
season (Apr–May & Sep–Oct) is
the best time to visit. Bird-
watching ideal in Jul–Sep. Fishing
best in Apr, but requires a permit
from Ibama, (67) 3317 2966.
Transport
k Campo Grande & Corumbá.
~ Caceres & Cuiabá.
Chapada dos
Guimarães
Cuiabá
Brasília
Várzea Grande
ui Jaciara
C
ab
á
Barão de Melgaço
Poconé
Rondonópolis
Planalto do o Brasília
re nç
ou
Mato Grosso Sã
oL
Rio Alegre
. Fazendas
Anhumas
Originally built as cattle ranches, many fazendas have been
Itiq
uira converted into ranch-style hotels. The fazendas are connected
Itiquira by excellent bird-watching walkways throughout the Pantanal.
Pant a n a l Correntes
M at og r o s s en s e
quar í
do Ta
n al
n ta
Pa arí
Taqu Igapó Forest
u arí Among the most
Taq Coxim Jauru diverse of the
Pantanal’s eco-
Rio Verde de
systems, the igapó is a
Co
Mato Grosso
xi
seasonally flooded
m
forest on blackwater
rivers. It is a wonderful
Ne gr o
place for wildlife-
viewing by canoe.
Maracaju
Corguinho
Rochedo
Guaicuras
an
a
Taunay au São Paulo

Miranda uid
Aq
Aquidauana
Campo
de
Bodoquena
Grande
Sidrolândia
Bonito
Serra
hante
Nioaque
Bril
Jardim
Aroeira
Maracaju
Rio Brilhante
Bela Vista
River Excursions
Dourados
Ponta Fazendas near Miranda (see p326) offer boat trips on the
Porã various Pantanal rivers. Binoculars are essential for bird and
caiman spotting.
Fazenda Meia Lua lies just on

the edge of town and is an
ideal soft adventure option.
Environs
Known for their distinctive
painted terra-cotta ceramics,
the Terena indigenous villages
surround Miranda. Tour oper-
ators in Miranda can arrange
trips to a Terena village, as well
as to the Rio Salobrinho, a
beautiful clear-water river lined
with gallery forest. Expect to
find rare bird species, including
Boats moored on the Rio Paraguai, Corumbá kingfishers and black-crowned
night herons.
6 Corumbá 7 Miranda
Mato Grosso do Sul. * 95,000. Mato Grosso do Sul. * 23,000.
~ £ @ g along Rio Paraguai. £ @ n Setur, (67) 3242 3051.
8 Campo Grande
n Secretaría de Turismo, (67) 3231 _ Festa do Homem Pantaneiro (Nov). Mato Grosso do Sul. * 665,000. k
2886. _ Festa de Nossa Senhora de ~ £ @ n Centro Informação
Candelária (Jan–Feb). The tiny town of Miranda, in the Turistica e Cultural, (67) 3314 3142.
heart of the Pantanal, hosts the
Corumbá , on the banks of the region’s liveliest festival, the Mato Grosso do Sul’s capital,
Rio Paraguai, is a small town Festa do Homem Pantaneiro. Campo Grande is also known as
surrounded by the Pantanal This grand celebration of the Cidade Morena because of its
region’s unspoilt beauty. Boat ranching and cowboy way of red earth. It is a prosperous,
rides along the river as well life features lasso contests (in modern city devoted far more
as wetland excursions form the mornings for women, at to agro-business than tourism.
Corumbá’s major attractions. night for men), and rodeos. Live Yet most visitors to the southern
Sportfishing, one of the main sertanejo bands and dancing Pantanal arrive here because
highlights, is provided at the carry on all night. the tourist infrastructure is
nature lodges, floating hotels, Miranda is an ideal base for excellent. Commerce,
and charming fazendas in visiting the southern Pantanal’s education, and tourism are
this area. various fazenda ranches (see fast-growing industries here.
Corumbá was first explored pp379–80), many of which lie The city itself has few major
by Portuguese and Spanish on the outskirts of town. The attractions, though there are
adventurers in search of gold. By Fazenda San Francisco is one many good restaurants, hotels,
the 18th century, the growing of the best locations in inland and bars, particularly along and
strategic importance of the Rio Brazil for big cats, especially around Rua Barão do Rio
Paraguai led to the construction ocelot and jaguar. The Fazenda Branco. For those who do not
of forts. The Forte Junqueira, Baía Grande preserves a diverse want to rough it out with a
built during the Paraguayan War range of Pantanal habitats, Pantanal camping tour, travel
(see p57), is the only fort still including a large caiman-filled agencies sell packages to
standing intact. lake and extensive forest. The comfortable farm hotels.
Another place worth a visit is
the Casa do Artesão, a former
prison housing an interesting
museum of indigenous and
local objets d’art. The Museu do
Pantanal also has a small
collection of indigenous art.
E Casa do Artesão
Rua Dom Aquino 205. Open 8–11am
& 2–5pm Mon–Fr, 8–11am Sat.
P Forte Junqueira
Rua Cáceres 425. Tel (67) 3231 5828.
Open 8am–5pm daily.
E Museu do Pantanal
Rua Manoel Cavassa, 275. Tel (67)
3231 0303. Open 1–6pm Tue–Sat. Rodeo at the Festa de Homem Pantaneiro
} Estância Mimosa
15 miles (24 km) NW of Bonito.
Tel (67) 8403 5213. Open 8am–3pm
daily. & 8 www.estanciamimosa.
com.br
Some of the best hiking
opportunities are offered in the
Estância Mimosa trail, which
features rivers, natural pools,
and as many as eight waterfalls.
There are various bathing spots
located in and around these
natural features. The trail goes
past the gorgeous riverside
forest of the Rio Mimoso, with
caves and a rich array of wildlife.
The fauna includes a variety of
birds and mammals, while
various kinds of fern, orchid,
and bromeliad are part of the
Rio Sucuri flowing near Bonito, reflecting the lush greenery around lush vegetation found in this
area. An optional horseback
9 Bonito } Rio Sucuri excursion is also available.
12 miles (20 km) SW of Bonito.
Mato Grosso do Sul. * 17,000. @
n Comtur. 8 Taika Tour, R. Coronel This glassy river is broken by
Pilad Rebuá 2111, (67) 3255 1354; waterfalls and large pools filled
Ygarapé Tours, Pilad Rebuá 1853, (67) with 3-ft- (1-m-) long piraputanga
3255 1733. (ray-finned fish, typical of the
Rio Paraguai basin) and silver
A one-street town, Bonito is dourado fish. Many pools are set
lined with pousadas, in woodland cut with
restaurants, shops, and wildlife trails. The gentle
tour operators whose flow of the Rio Sucuri
lifeline is tourism. It lies and the excellent
just beyond the facilities draws a plethora
Pantanal’s southern of snorkelers and rafters,
extremities, in the Serra from morning to
do Bodoquena, a low, afternoon, mainly in
cerrado-covered range the high season.
of rugged hills busy Black-collared hawk Particularly popular are
with primates and birds, the flotation points
including the black-collared where visitors begin a pleasant Lake and stalactites at the Abismo
hawk. There are numerous sights 1-mile (1.6-km) float downstream. Anhumas cavern
around Bonito, all protected by Tour agencies provide meals
regulations. Only Bonito-based and equipment. } Abismo Anhumas
tour agencies can organize trips 16 miles (25 km) W of Bonito.
and arrange permits. } Gruta do Lago Azul Open 7:30am–noon daily. &
12 miles (20 km) W of Bonito. Training Center, Bonito: Tel (67) 3255-
 Aquário Natural Baía Open 7am–2pm daily. & 3313. ∑ abismoanhumas.com.br
Bonita The Serra do Bodoquena is A pothole that descends a
4 miles (7 km) SE of Bonito. Tel (67) dotted with caves, the most vertical 240-ft (73-m) deep, the
3255 1193. Open 7:30am–3:30pm spectacular of which is the Abismo Anhumas is a cavern
daily. & ∑ aquarionatural.com.br Gruta do Lago Azul. The main filled with a large, clear, blue
One of the natural springs in highlight is a radiant under- lake featuring vast stalagmites,
the area, the Baía Bonita features ground lake that shines as stalactites, and many other cave
a pristine aquarium, which blue as a sapphire in the deposits. The entrance to the
contains 30 different varieties of morning light. From the cave is by rappel. Once visitors
fish. Facilities within the complex cave’s spectacular mouth, a have descended to the lake,
include a warm swimming pool narrow path leads deep down they can float in it, snorkel, and
and relaxation cabin. Snorkeling through striking stalactite take a boat tour. A maximum of
trips to the Rio Sucuri and Rio formations. At the bottom lies 20 people are permitted in the
da Prata are offered by tour the lake, illuminated by ambient cave on any given day. Book with
companies. Wetsuits and light that streams through the the Training Center in advance
snorkels are also provided. cave’s opening. as preparation is required.
southERN
bRazil
R
Razil
Introducing Southern
Brazil 330–335
Santa Catarina & Paraná 336–351
Rio Grande do Sul 352–363
330  SOuThERn BRAzil
Introducing Southern Brazil

The states of Paraná, Santa Catarina, and Rio Grande do Sul form
Southern Brazil – the only Brazilian region that lies entirely outside
the tropics. Often dismissed as somehow not being truly Brazilian,
BRAZIL
this region is distinctive due to more than its temperate climate.
Although there are vital indigenous, African, and Portuguese
elements to the population, the region is largely associated with
descendants of European immigrants. The landscape features SOUTHERN
BRAZIL
tremendous contrasts – the pampas grasslands, mountains,

and the highland plateau. The distinctive cultures that have
emerged there, as along the equally varied coast, are a reflection
of Brazil’s diversity.
Cascavel
Foz do Iguaçu
Foz do Iguaçu (see pp344–7) is one of South America’s most Chapecó

impressive natural features. These spectacular waterfalls are shared by
Brazil and Argentina, with each side offering unique perspectives.
From Brazil, visitors enjoy a complete panorama, while the trails in
Argentina allow visitors to see the falls close-up.
Passo
Ijuí Fundo
0 km 150
0 miles 150
Santa Maria
Uruguaiana
Rosário
RIO GRANDE
do Sul DO SUL
(See pp352–63)
Bagé
Pelotas
São Miguel das Missões (see

p363) is Rio Grande do Sul’s
best-preserved Jesuit ruin. This
haunting place offers ample
evidence of the sophistication
of native Guaraní Baroque
architecture that emerged in
this remote region in the mid-
17th century.
Foz do Iguaçu (Iguaçu Falls), Paraná
introducing southern brazil  331
Curitiba (see p340), the capital of

Paraná, is a pretty, well-planned
town. Built during the city’s cattle
and coffee boom, today Curitiba has
well-preserved historic buildings, less
pollution and traffic than other
Brazilian cities, plenty of green
spaces, a great music scene, and
several interesting sights.
Londrina
Maringá
Ponta Grossa
Curitiba
Paranaguá
SANTA CATARINA
& PARANÁ
(See pp336–51) Joinville
Florianópolis (see pp350–51), the vibrant capital
city of Santa Catarina on Ilha de Santa Catarina, is
Itajai surrounded by quiet fishing communities and
excellent beaches. The sheltered north shore has
the most developed beaches, while the east coast
Lajes Florianópolis lures surfers attracted by giant Atlantic rollers.
Caxias do Sul
Novo Hamburgo
Porto
Alegre
Rio Grande
Porto Alegre (see pp356–7), the capital of Rio

Grande do Sul, has a host of Neo-Classical
buildings dating from the 19th and early
20th centuries. The Palácio Municipal is one
such expression of civic pride, built in 1898,
when Porto Alegre was developing into a
significant city.
332  SoUThern Brazil
Multicultural Southern Brazil

More than anywhere else in the country, Southern
Brazil has been shaped culturally and economically
by immigrants. Unlike tropical Brazil to the north,
this part was considered unsuitable for plantation
agriculture, and instead immigrants were recruited
for land colonization schemes. The legacy of its
physical isolation from “mainstream” Brazilian society
is reflected in the languages and cultures of the
immigrants. The architectural heritage is highly
valued, festivals showcase traditional music and
dance, while handicrafts and local products are sold An illustration of European immigrants aboard
in villages and on farms. a ship bound for Brazil
Azoreans
In the 18th century, Azoreans settled along
the coast of Southern Brazil, bringing with
them fishing, farming, and lace-making skills.
Villages were created, in particular on the
island of Santa Catarina, whose white-and-
blue buildings resemble those of the
Portuguese mid-Atlantic islands.
Azorean lace-making is one of the

important traditions that have been
maintained by women in villages on Fishing, the main economic activity of the Azorean community in
the island of Santa Catarina. Santa Catarina
Germans
Germans were the first non-Portuguese immigrants to settle
in Southern Brazil, in the 1850s. They were drawn to the
highlands of Rio Grande do Sul and the river valleys of north-
eastern Santa Catarina. Their dialects and traditions continue
in many rural areas, while German architectural styles are
apparent in cities such as Blumenau and Nova Hamburgo.
Old-world architecture
still dominates in the
areas of Southern Brazil
settled by German
immigrants. Many
buildings are exact
replicas of ones found
in towns in southern
Germany. In the
countryside, distinctive
half-timbered farm-
houses, built by pioneer
immigrants, remain a
common sight. German-Brazilian celebration of Oktoberfest
introducing southern brazil  333
Italians
The first Italian immigrants
settled in Rio Grande do Sul in
1875, with tens of thousands
arriving there, and in Santa
Catarina and Paraná, over the
next 50 years. The vast majority
came from the northern Italian
provinces of Veneto and Trento,
introducing rich culinary Vineyards in the Serra Gaúcha (see p359) have become as much
traditions and the ability to a part of the landscape as they are in Italy. These endless stretches
cultivate lucrative grape vines of lush greenery form the center stage for the region’s wine
on the steepest of hillsides. production, known both in and outside Brazil.
Slavs
Paraná is the state most closely associated with Slavic immigrants
from Central and Eastern Europe, with Poles settling in and
around Curitiba from 1869, Ukrainians in the south-center of the
state from 1895, and Russians around Ponta Grossa in the early
1960s. The Ukrainians have been especially successful in
maintaining their ethnic identity.
São Josafat
Josafat, a
typical Byzantine-
style church in
Prudentópolis, is
easily recognizable
by its onion dome
features. The
Ukrainian Catholic
church is pivotal in A log cabin, housed in the Museu da
maintaining Imigração Polonesa in Curitiba, is one of
Ukrainian identity the structures that were built by Polish
in Brazil. immigrants in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Other Communities
At the beginning of the 20th century, Jews from Eastern
Europe founded agricultural communities in Rio Grande do
Sul. They later moved to Porto Alegre, establishing Brazil’s
third-largest Jewish community. In the 1920s and 1930s,
many Japanese immigrants relocated to Paraná from São
Paulo, setting up coffee and soya farms. Immigrants from
other ethnic backgrounds were too few to leave legacies.
Some exceptions are the Austrians who settled in central
Santa Catarina in the 1930s, and the Dutch who came to
Paraná after World War II.
Praça Ministro Andreas Thaler,

in Treze Tílias, is named for the then
Castrolanda, a Dutch settlement thriving on dairy and Austrian Minister of Agriculture,
agricultural products, mainly soya, continues to celebrate who founded the city in 1933 for
its past in the traditional folk dances of the Netherlands. Austrian immigrants.
334  SOUTHERN BRAZIL
The Gaúcho Life

The gaúcho culture developed in colonial times in what is
now northeastern Argentina, Uruguay, and Southern Brazil.
In Rio Grande do Sul, the natives of the state – whether urban
or rural, and regardless of their ethnic origin – are called
gaúchos. Traditionally, gaúchos were semi-nomadic people
who lived by hunting wild cattle. With the introduction of
fencing and border agreements, they were reduced to being
ranch hands. Nonetheless, their legacy continues to be
strongly visible in the distinct gaúcho culture of today. In the
interior of the state, in the grasslands of both the pampas
and serra, the heirs of the traditional gaúcho employ their Old estancia Sobrado, a traditional ranch,
skills as tough horsemen on cattle estancias (ranches). Rio Grande do Sul
Clothing
Traditional gaúcho attire remains commonplace
among the rural population of the pampas and
highlands of Southern Brazil. On special occasions, city
dwellers also don gaúcho clothing, an outward sign of
the distinctiveness of Rio Grande do Sul society.
Gaúcho Dress is worn with immense

pride. “Gaúcho pants” (bombachas), a
linen shirt, kerchief, poncho, rimmed
felt-hat, and pleated boots with
fancy spurs are essential
components of traditional
gaúcho clothing.
A Silver Knife
Knife, delicately
carved, is an important
gaúcho tool, handy
weapon, and eating
implement.
Centro de Tradições Gaúchas

The worldwide Brazilian-gaúcho organization,
Centro de Tradições Gaúchas, (Center for Gaúcho
Traditions) was founded by eight Porto Alegre
students in 1948, to preserve and promote
gaúcho traditions. Today, it has more than 4,500
affiliate clubs that stage rodeos, gaúcho dances,
parades, barbecues, and other social events. A
centro can now be found wherever gaúchos live,
both within Rio Grande do Sul and as far afield as
Bolivia, Japan, and Portugal. The centros are
perhaps the most convenient way for an outsider
to observe gaúcho traditions, which are
emerging as a part of popular culture even in
non-gaúcho areas. Local tourist offices and
hotels will be able to provide information on
Parade celebrating gaúcho culture in Argentina upcoming events.
introducing SoutHErn BrAZiL  335
Way of Life Rodeos, often lasting

The gaúcho way of life was originally a several days, test the
nomadic one, with the horsemen wandering skills of cattlemen,
serve as social events
the pampas, hunting wild cattle for their hides.
for local townsfolk,
Working as cattle hands today, gaúchos still
and help break the
cling to many of the traditions. isolation of rural
inhabitants.
Cattle drives by gaúchos

on horseback are com
mon sights en route to
Rio Grande
do Sul’s extensive
grassland regions.
Dance & Music

Dance performances are integral to social gatherings.
The music originates from a mixing of Portuguese,
Spanish, Basque, African, German, and Italian cultures,
with lyrics typically about local tales. Polkas and
marches form the basis of traditional gaúcho dance.
A colorful kerchief
is part of a gaúcho’s
typical dress.
Bombachas, or loose
fitting trousers belted
with a tirador (sash), are
traditionally worn by
the gaúchos.
Accordion music first

came to Southern Brazil
with Portuguese
colonists, but was trans
formed by exposure to
other influences. The
accordion and acoustic
guitar are the most com
mon folk instruments.
Food & Drink Chimarrão, a sugarless

Meat, especially beef, is central to the chá mate tea, is the
characteristic and most
traditional gaúcho diet. While the gaúcho
popular drink of Rio
grill is legendary, rice, usually cooked with
Grande do Sul. The
charque (jerked beef ), is also a staple. caffeinated herbal tea is
Pumpkin and other varieties of squash are sipped through a bomba
often incorporated into stews. (a silver straw) from a
cuia (gourd). The same
cuia is generally used by
a group of chimarrão
drinkers.
Churrasco, barbecued beef popular throughout Brazil, is

cooked on metal or wood skewers rested on a support
or stuck into the ground, and roasted over a charcoal or
firewood flame.
BrazIl arEa By arEa  337
Santa Catarina &

Par anÁ
Brazil’s southern states are a delight for nature lovers, with
Paraná’s spectacular Iguaçu Falls surrounded by lush rainforest and
lovely beaches fringing the coast of tiny Santa Catarina. The region’s
long history of immigration from Europe has created a unique,
multi-layered cultural identity.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, Valley, and Italians in the southern part of
military garrisons were established all the state. The physical and cultural isolation
along the coast of Southern Brazil to guard of ethnic groups has resulted in distinct
against possible Spanish encroachment, identities being maintained in rural areas to
and immigrants from the Portuguese this day. The towns of Paranaguá, Antonina,
mid-Atlantic islands of the Azores were and Morretes in Paraná, and Laguna,
brought in to establish farming and fishing Florianópolis, and São Francisco do Sul in
settlements. Over time, these settlements Santa Catarina also retain visible
grew into important towns, and Curitiba – characteristics of their European origins.
on the trade route between Rio Grande do The main destinations for visitors to
Sul and Minas Gerais – transformed into Paraná are the Iguaçu Falls and the
one of Brazil’s most dynamic cities. surrounding rainforest. The state’s coast
From 1840 to the mid-1900s, the has escaped the excesses of development
interiors of Paraná and Santa Catarina were despite the natural beauty of Ilha do Mel,
opened to immigration, with waves of Guaraqueçaba, and Superaguï Island.
European and other settlers staking out Visitors to Santa Catarina make straight
small farms. The newcomers settled along for the beaches of Florianópolis. The
ethnic lines, with the Polish concentrated mountainous interior around São Joaquim
around Curitiba, Ukrainians in southern and Lages is worth visiting for its
Paraná, Germans in Santa Catarina’s Itajaí spectacular scenery.
Turquoise waves hitting Florianópolis beach, Santa Catarina

Catedral Metropolitana de Florianópolis, on the Ilha de Santa Catarina
Exploring Santa Catarina & Paraná

Although the uncontested highlights of this region are
Paraná’s magnificent Iguaçu Falls and Santa Catarina’s island
resort of Florianópolis, these two states have much more Paranapanema
Porto
to offer. Santa Catarina’s 310-mile (500-km) coast features São Jose
Nova
Londrina Colorado
sheltered coves and long expanses of beach, where it is
ná
possible to observe right whales reproducing from July to
Pira
Para
Paranavaí
September. In Paraná, the Atlantic forest preserves of the Ivaí
pó
Nova
Parque Nacional Ilha de Superagüi encompass dense Rondon Esperança
Porto Maringá
virgin forest. Ilha do Mel, at the mouth of Paranaguá Camargo
Bay, is a popular beach resort, and just across the bay Cianorte
Umuarama
on the mainland is the scenic port of Paranaguá.
Cruzeiro
Inland, both states have a robust agricultural d’Oeste
industry. Vast soya farms dominate large parts of Campo Mourão
Guaíra
Paraná, while small family holdings are characteristic Piqu
iri Goio-Erê
i
ir
of Santa Catarina. Descendants of European Palotina
qu
ná
Nova
immigrants continue their traditions in these
Para
Pi
Aurora
Toledo
states, such as the Austrians in Treze Tílias. Campina
do
S. Helena
da Lagoa Pitanga
Cascavel
a
Guaraniaçu
rr
Sights at a Glance Piquiri
Se
Towns & Cities
Medianeira
1 Curitiba Laranjeiras
do Sul
3 Paranaguá FOZ DO Represa
7 Florianópolis & Ilha de Santa IGUAÇU Iguaçu Salto Paz
Catarina pp350–51 Chopimzinho
Mangueirinha
National Parks, Islands & Areas
Pato Ch
of Natural Beauty Branco op
im
2 Serra da Graciosa p341
Palmas
4 Ilha do Mel Campo Erê
có
5 Ilha de Superagüi pe
a
Ch
6 Foz do Iguaçu pp344–7 Xanxerê
Chapecó
S A N TA
Concórdia
Urugua
i
Façade of the Mercado Público in Florianópolis, Santa Catarina

S A N TA C ATA R I N A & PA R A N Á  339
Porecatu Represa
Capivara
Bandeirantes
Londrina Jacarezinho
Cornélio
Procópio Represa de
Arapongas Xavantes
Apucarana
Marlândia
do Sul Ibaiti
Venceslau
Ti
Bráz
bag
Low-lying islands covered with thick vegetation, Paraná

Ortigueira Telêmaco
i
Borba
Cândiddo Jaguariaíva
Ventania
de Abreu
Reserva Piraí do Sul
Iva
Ribeira
í
Castro
PARANÁ Cerro Azul São Paulo
Ivaí
Ponta Grossa
SERRA DA ILHA DE
Palmeira GRACIOSA SUPERAGÜI
Irati
Guarapuava
CURITIBA ILHA DO MEL
a çu
Igu
São Mateus Lapa PARANAGUÁ
do Sul
Key
ar
Mallét Guaratuba
Baía de
M
União da Rio Guaratuba Highway

Vitória Canoinhas Negro
do
São Francisco Major road

Porto União
Joinville do Sul
a
Minor road
rr
Itaiópolis
Jaraguá Bara Velha Railroad
Se
do Sul
Caçador
International border
Itajaí
C ATA R I N A Blumenau State border
Se
Rio Brusque
Joaçaba Curitibanos do Sul Porto Belo
rr
Tijucas Baía de Tijucas

João
a
Campos Ituporanga
Novos Pa
FLORIANÓPOLIS &
ul
Ri São José
o
o ILHA DE SANTA CATARINA

Ge
Lajes Palhoça
da
Bocaino
sP
do Sul
el o
ra
ta
s
São Imbituba
Joaquim Lagoa do
Orleaes Mirim Laguna
Tubarão
Criciúma
Getting Around
Both Paraná and Santa Catarina have excellent
Araranguá transportation facilities. Curitiba and Florianópolis have
Lagoa do international airports. Foz do Iguaçu’s international
Sombrio airport also serves many regional destinations. The road
Porto Torres network is good, with only a few towns connected with
Alegre
gravel or dirt roads. The main north–south highway (BR-
101) that hugs the coast of Santa Catarina is well
maintained but is often extremely congested in the
0 km 50 summer. Bus travel is excellent between the region’s
main centers as well as the smaller towns. There is only
0 miles 50
one passenger railroad network – the spectacular
68-mile (110-km) route linking Curitiba with Paranaguá.
its displays concentrating

on Paraná’s archaeology,
anthropology, and history.
The city’s commercial center
extends along Rua XV de
Novembro. Rua das Flores is the
pedestrianized section lined with
early 20th-century pastel-colored
shops. The distinctive Art
Nouveau former city hall at Praça
Generoso Marques, in front of the
flower market, is now a cultural
center. The most visited sight in
this area is Jardim Botânico, a
French-style botanic garden with
The main greenhouse in Jardim Botânico, Curitiba greenhouses, fountains,
waterfalls, and lakes.
1 Curitiba Across the square is the early To celebrate the contributions
Paraná. * 1,750,000. k 18th-century Casa Romário of European immigrants to the
£ from Morretes. n Rua da Martins, Curitiba’s oldest city, parks have been built in their
Glória 362, (41) 3350 6456. surviving house and now a honor. The best example is the
∑ turismo.curitiba.pr.gov.br cultural center featuring Bosque Papa João Paulo II
exhibitions on the history Memorial Polonês, where
Founded in 1693 as a gold- of the city. log cabins built by Polish
mining encampment, Curitiba Up the hill from here, immigrants in the 1880s
developed to become the virtually adjoining the have been re-erected.
largest city in Southern Brazil. Largo da Ordem, are The buildings, including
It emerged from being a minor Garibaldi and João a farmhouse, chapel, and
administrative, commercial, and Cândido squares. The barns, are set amid a small
agro-processing center to grow squares are surrounded araucaria preserve, pine trees
into one of Brazil’s most by brightly painted that originally dominated the
dynamic cities. Since the early late 19th- and early landscape. Bordering the
1990s, Curitiba has rivalled São 20th-century houses, Bosque Papa João Paulo II
Paulo as a location for corporate now used as art galleries, and representing modern
investment, in large measure antiques shops, and Curitiba is the Museu
attracted by the city’s quality restaurants. The grandest Oscar Niemeyer. Popularly
of life, accessibility, and public building, however, is the referred to as “The Eye” after
services, which are an example Palácio São Francisco, the construction’s central
to the rest of the country. built in 1929 and later Detail outside Museu feature, the building is
The Largo da Ordem marks serving as the state Paranaense considered one of Oscar
the heart of Curitiba’s oldest governor’s official Niemeyer’s greatest
quarter and features many well- residence. Renovated and architectural achievements.
preserved historic buildings. extended, the building now
Dating from 1737, the Igreja da houses the Museu Paranaense, Y Bosque Papa João Paulo II
Ordem is the city’s oldest Memorial Polonês
church and the finest example Av Mateus Leme/ Rua Euclides Ban-
of Portuguese ecclesiastical deira 1200 (Portal Polonês). Tel (41)
3350 9891. Open 24 hours daily.
architecture in the state. The
Memorial: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. 7
plain, whitewashed structure is
decorated inside with typically } Jardim Botânico
Portuguese blue-and-white tiles Rua Eng. Ostoja Roguski. Tel (41) 3264
and Baroque altars. Alongside 6994. Open 6am–8pm daily.
the church is the Museu de E Museu de Arte Sacra
Arte Sacra with its small but Largo da Ordem s/n. Tel (41) 3321 3265.
well-presented collection of Open 9am–noon, 1–6pm Tue–Fri,
relics gathered from churches in 1–6pm Sat, 9am–3pm Sun. 7 ^
Curitiba. On the same side of E Museu Oscar Niemeyer
the square is the Igreja do Rua Marechal Hermes 999 (Centro
Rosário, originally serving Civico). Tel
T (41) 3350 4400.
Curitiba’s slave population. First Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7
built in 1737, the church was E Museu Paranaense
completely reconstructed in the Rua Kellers 289. Tel (41) 3304 3300.
1930s but retains its original Façade of Igreja do Rosário on Largo Open 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–4pm
Portuguese colonial style. do Ordem Sat & Sun. 7
2 Serra da Graciosa VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The mountain range that separates Paraná state’s coast Practical Information
from its interior is known as the Serra do Mar. Its southern Paraná. n Casa Rocha Pombo:
Largo José Pereira S. Andrade, s/n,
extension, Serra da Graciosa, is one of the largest remaining (41) 3414 1104. ® in Morretes.
areas of Mata Atlântica (Atlantic forest) in Southern Brazil. Parque Estadual Pico do Marumbi:
The Serra is rich in flora and fauna, ranging from lowland Tel (41) 3462 3598. Open 24 hours
subtropical to cloud forest varieties. The road and railroad daily. Litorina: Tel (41) 3888 3488;
advance booking required.
linking Morretes and Curitiba are amazing feats of ∑ serraverdeexpress.com.br
19th-century engineering, zigzagging through some of the
Transport
most spectacular terrain in the country. The area is often £ Litorina @ Viaçao Graciosa.
shrouded with mist or fog, the result of cool air from the
highlands colliding with the warm air of the subtropical
coast. The forest thrives on such precipitation.
Parque Estadual Pico do Morumbi

Usually shrouded with mist, trails with The Estrada Graciosa
stunning vistas crisscross this vast expanse Completed in 1873, the Estrada Graciosa winds
of Mata Atlântica. its way through the forbidding terrain of the
Taquari Serra do Mar.
Campina
ES
Grande
TR
AD
do Sul
A
GR
AC
IO
S
A
Antonina
AR
Piraquara
Curitiba
M
O
Morretes Baía de
D
Paranaguá
A
Paranaguá
RR
SE
Alexandra
Barro Preto
Serra do Mar, with its forest- Morretes makes an

covered mountain range, excellent base to explore
separates Paraná’s coastal plain the surrounding region.
and highland plateau.
Key
The Litorina Major road
The remarkable Curitiba–Paranaguá Minor road
railroad line passes through 13 tunnels and
Railroad
across 30 bridges. For much of the route,
the line clings to a seemingly sheer
mountainside from which, on clear days, 0 km 10
there are wonderful views across
untouched forest toward the coast. 0 miles 10
4 Ilha do Mel
Paraná. * 1,200. g from Paranaguá.
∑ ilhadomelonline.com.br
The most beautiful of

Paraná’s islands, Ilha do Mel
offers a combination of almost
entirely undeveloped beaches,
isolated coves, and sandy
trails. The island guards the
entrance to Paranaguá Bay and
there are wellpreserved ruins
of the mid18thcentury fort,
Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora
dos Prazeres, that was
constructed to ward off English,
French, and Spanish attacks.
The Farol das Conchas
(Conchas Lighthouse),
imported from Glasgow and
placed on the island’s most
easterly point in 1872, is the
best place for a stunning
Colonial buildings along the waterfront in Paranaguá panoramic view of the island,
bay, and mountains.
3 Paranaguá whitewashed building has Tourist development is
Paraná. * 151,000. £ from Curitiba.
undergone renovation and lowkey. Visitor numbers are
@ n Av Arthur de Abreu 44, (41) contains a small collection of controlled, and there are no
3420 2785. ∑ paranagua.pr.gov.br sacred art. roads or motor vehicles on the
island. Building work is also
Founded in 1585, Paranaguá is E Museu de Arqueologia strictly regulated. Pousadas
the oldest city in Paraná and is e Etnologia are all small and very simple,
one of Brazil’s most important Rua 15 de Novembro 575. but most are all the more
ports today. Paranaguá’s historic Tel (41) 3423 2511. Open 9am–noon, charming for this. The Ilha do
center is small enough to 1–6pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm Sat, Sun & Mel attracts predominantly
explore on foot. The oldest public hols. & young visitors and in the
buildings are located in the
compact historic core on the
shore of Paranaguá Bay. Most of
these dilapidated, but distin
guishedlooking, 19thcentury
merchants’ houses now serve as
shops or inexpensive hotels.
Also along the shore is the
former Colégio dos Jesuítas, an
imposing building that now
houses the Museu de
Arqueologia e Etnologia,
whose rich collection relates to
the region’s indigenous inhab
itants and popular culture.
Two churches in the historic
center are worth seeking out.
The Igreja de Nossa Senhora
do Rosário, built between 1571
and 1575, has suffered consider
able changes over the centuries
but the main structure retains
a Portuguese colonial appear
ance. Built between 1600 and
1650 by slaves, the Igreja de
São Benedito is an excellent
example of popular colonial
architecture. The simple, Farol das Conchas lighthouse on the eastern tip of Ilha do Mel
A flock of migratory birds in the Parque Nacional de Superagüi, Ilha de Superagüi
summer it transforms into a from Ilha do Mel. Most of the sand. The island attracts
party island, with beachside low-lying island is covered with various migrating birds, but
bars open through the night. shrub forest and mangrove. the flocks of rare, red-faced
In spite of this, there can be Very basic accommodation is parrot ((Amazona brasiliensis) are
few more peaceful spots available at Barra de Superagüi, endemic. Visitors can observe
on the southern Brazilian a village located on the them during the early hours
coast than on this island. The southeast of the island. The only of the evening.
beaches, some with waves other part of the island that is
suitable for skilled surfers, accessible to visitors is Praia O Parque Nacional de Superagüi
others with warm, calm water Deserta, a glorious 24-mile- Barra de Superagüi. Open 24 hrs. 8
ideal for swimming, are never (38-km-) long expanse of white arranged at Pousada Superagüi.
overcrowded. Some of the
best beaches, such as Praia
Grande and Praia de Fora, are
located on the eastern part
of the island.
5 Ilha de Superagüi
Paraná. g from Paranaguá. ®
Pousada Superagui, (41) 3482 7149.
∑ pousadasuperagui.com.br
Just a few dozen people who

make a living from fishing and
tourism inhabit the island of
Superagüi. The island is part Barreado, a regional specialty of Paraná
of the Parque Nacional de
Superagüi, a large stretch Barreado
of intact Atlantic rainforest, or
In Paraná’s coastal towns, barreado is listed on the menu of
Mata Atlântica (see p113). The most restaurants. Now available throughout the year, barreado,
park is home to jaguars and considered a poor man’s meal, used to be eaten during Carnaval.
parrots, and is known for its Barreado is a dish that can provide food for several days and
mangroves and salt marshes, requires little attention while cooking. The dish is made of beef,
where an amazing variety of bacon, tomatoes, onion, cumin, and other spices. Traditionally
orchids grow. The park is also these ingredients are placed in layers in a large clay urn, covered,
part of the Atlantic forest and then sealed with a paste of ash and farinha (manioc flour),
reserves that were given before being cooked in a wood-fired oven for up to 15 hours.
UNESCO World Heritage Today, pressure cookers are sometimes used, and gas or electric
listing in 1999. The island is ovens are substituted for wood-fired ones. Barreado is served with
reached by boat, most easily farinha, which is spread on a plate; the meat and gravy is placed
from Paranaguá, although on top, and the dish is eaten with banana and orange slices.
arrangements can also be made
6 Foz do Iguaçu
Iguaçu Falls rate as one of South America’s great natural sights. The falls
are formed by a succession of 275 interlinking cataracts up to 246 ft (75 m)
in height cascading over a 1.8-mile- (3-km-) wide precipice. The falls owe
their origins to several successive volcanic layers of rock built up over
110 million years. Shared between Brazil and Argentina, the falls are
completely surrounded by nature preserves. The two preserves
of Brazil’s Parque Nacional do Iguaçu and Argentina’s Parque
Nacional Iguazú contain one of the largest surviving tracts
of Atlantic forest in South America.
. Garganta do Diabo
At the Garganta do Diabo (Devil’s Throat),
the river falls into the depths below with
immense power, producing a thick cloud
of misty spray.
Walkway
The walkway snaking
along one tier of the falls
is where visitors can peer
into the depths of the
magnificent, multiple
cascading cataracts.
KEY
0 meters 50
1 Estrada Velha de Guarapuava 0 yards 50
2 Porto Canoas Restaurant, with

its outdoor deck, has a wonderful
view of the upper falls.
3 Estación Cataratas is the starting
point of most of the trails. The station
also has a rest area and a food court.
4 The railroad track runs
through vast expanses of lush . Hotel das Cataratas
forest where wildlife and bird sight This majestic 1958 hotel
ings are common. (see p381) is the only
5 Pasarelas de la Isla San Martín one that lies in the
Brazilian national park.
Paraná. n inside bus station, Foz;
(45) 3522 6997. Parque Nacional
do Iguaçu Tel (45) 3521 4400.
Open 9am–5pm daily. & 8
Note: the best time to visit is
during the rainy season between
April and July.
Tren Ecológico
Access to the trails leading to the falls in the Argentinian park is by a Transport
k Aeroporto Internacional do
miniature train which runs on natural gas. The train stops at three
stations along the way. Foz do Iguaçu, (45) 3521 4200. @
Rodoviária Internacional, 4 miles
(6 km) NE from town.
Isla San Martín Surroundings

Walkways lead up to views of seven
cascading waterfalls, including the
powerful Salto San Martín.
Powerboat Trips
The falls can be experienced from close up in
hired powerboats that skim the rapids to the
very foot of the falls.
The Argentina Falls

Although the Brazilian side is
the best place for panoramic
views of the falls, it is easier to
get closer to both the main
cataracts as well as a series of
smaller ones from the network
of trails on the Argentinian side.
The Argentinian forest preserve
is larger than the Brazilian one,
with good walkable trails,
. Wildlife requiring more time to explore.
The forests around Foz do There is also a greater likelihood
Iguaçu host many rare wildlife of being able to spot wildlife The Sheraton Internacional Iguazú, close
species, including jaguar, ocelot, on the Argentinian side. to the falls
and harpy eagle.
Exploring Iguaçu
The spectacular falls are located near the Brazilian city of Foz
do Iguaçu and the sleepy Argentinian town of Puerto Iguazú.
Thanks to excellent roads and tourist facilities, the huge
numbers of visitors do little to detract from this majestic sight.
Both sides are flanked by lush national parks, abundant with
wildlife, and offering sweeping views of the falls, as well as
options to go closer to the cascades by boat. The region of
Iguaçu, meaning “Great Waters” in Tupi-Guaraní (see p51), was
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986. The ground-dwelling red-winged tinamou
at Parque das Aves
Key Medianeira park has large aviaries housing

some 180 species of birds from
Major road São Miguel different Brazilian and other
Minor road do Iguaçu ecosystems and include macaws,
International border parrots, toucans, redwinged
Park boundary BRAZIL tinamous, and flamingos. Apart
277 from a butterfly habitat and
Santa Terezinha a reptile exhibit, the park also
do Itaipu has a successful breeding
açu program that concentrates on
Ig u
Parque Brazilian endangered species.
Foz do Iguaçu Nacional
do Iguaçu
PARAGUAY Parque O Parque Nacional do
das Aves Iguaçu
Puerto Parque
Iguazú Nacional Iguazú Tel (45) 3521 4400. Open 9am–5pm
Macuco Safari Deseado daily. & 8 7
Tropical ∑ cataratasdoiguacu.com.br
das Cataratas Created in 1939, Brazil’s second
0 km 15 ARGENTINA oldest national park is today
0 miles 10 one of the most visited sights
in the country. Public and tour
Foz do Iguaçu spectacular waterfalls located to buses leave visitors at the
400 miles (639 km) W of Curitiba. ~ the east. Foz also boasts a wide visitors’ center near the park’s
@ n Av das Cataratas, Km 2.5, range of accommodations, as entrance where they transfer
(45) 2105 8128. Itaipu Binacional: Av well as reasonably good bars onto electricpowered, open
Tancredo Neves 6731. Tel (45) 3520 and restaurants. topped buses for the falls,
6999. Open 8am–4pm daily. & 8 located 6 miles (10 km) into
mandatory. 7 ∑ itaipu.gov.br Y Parque das Aves the park. The bus stops at the
Foz do Iguaçu, also referred to Rodovia das Cataratas Km 17. Tel (45) Estação Macuco Safari, where
just as Foz, was a sleepy little 3529 8282. Open 8:30am–5:30pm visitors can (for an additional
border town until the 1970s, daily. & 7 ∑ parquedasaves. charge) transfer onto a smaller
when construction work com.br electricpowered vehicle that
began on the nearby Itaipu Located close to the main takes them along a forest
Binacional, the world’s largest entrance to the Parque Nacional trail to the Rio Iguaçu. There,
hydroelectricity plant. Today, do Iguaçu, the Parque das Aves inflatable powerboats carry
Foz is a base from which visit serves as an excellent intro visitors across rapids toward
the city’s main attraction, the duction to Brazilian birdlife. The the Garganta do Diabo (Devil’s
Throat) and to virtually the
foot of the falls.
Along the way are various
rest points from where there
are spectacular panoramic
views of the main series of falls.
At the trail’s lowest point there
is a secure walkway that leads to
a platform where one can peer
into the stunning Garganta do
Diabo, a deep gorge into which
the fierce, cascading waters of
Jungle Explorer trucks transporting visitors to the falls the falls plummet.
Exploring the Argentinian

Side
The Argentinian side of Iguaçu
has a larger share of the
waterfalls, and offers an intimate
experience with a greater
variety of perspectives. The
quiet little town of Puerto
Iguazú is a good place to
make a base.
O Parque Nacional Iguazú

Tel (54) 3757 491469.
Open 8am–6pm daily. & 8 7
∑ iguazuargentina.com
Whereas the Brazilian park’s A rainbow arcs above the Rio Iguazú, Parque Nacional Iguazú, Argentina
great attractions are the
spectacular panoramic views of The Passeio Inferiores is a short Puerto Iguazú
the falls, the Argentinian park circuit offering even more 6 miles (10 km) S of Foz do Iguaçu. ~
has an extensive network of spectacular views of the falls @ n Av Victoria Aguirre 66, (37)
forest and waterside trails, from below. This circuit takes a 5742 0722. ∑ iguazuturismo.gov.ar
which offer visitors close-up little over an hour and involves Traveling between Foz and the
views of the smaller falls. As well climbing up and down stairs. Argentinian park by public
as the Passeio Garganta do Especially remarkable are the transport involves changing
Diablo, there are trails to the parts of the trail across catwalks buses in the Argentinian town
Passeio Inferiores and the allowing amazing views over of Puerto Iguazú. Although
Passeio Superiores. cascading water. At the lowest Puerto Iguazú boasts few
From the park’s excellent point, boats make the short sights, its quiet, tree-lined
visitors’ center, a miniature crossing to the Isla San Martín, streets make for attractive
railroad leads to the Estación an island located in the heart wandering, with wooden,
Central where the Passeio of the falls. Walking on the rather than concrete, buildings
Inferiores and Passeio Superiores island also requires a high level predominating.
circuits begin. From the Passeio of fitness, as it involves A short walk along Puerto
Superiores, visitors can look clambering up steep slopes Iguazú’s main artery, Avenida
down onto and across dozens and across some jagged rock Victoria Aguirre, leads to the
of cataracts. This circuit has formations. The Passeio Hito Tres Fronteras (Triple
concrete catwalks going Garganta do Diablo catwalk Borders Landmark). From here
behind the falls, which used begins at a quiet point there are superb views of the
to lead to the Garganta do upstream, passing several small Rio Iguaçu and Rio Paraná
Diablo until the floods swept islands before reaching its final, rivers and across the rivers to
them away. majestic destination. Brazil and Paraguay.
Wildlife in the Iguaçu Region

The extent of native flora and fauna that the parks offer is
varied. Over 2,000 species of flora have been identified, including
ferns, bromeliads, orchids, and many large species of trees that
serve as support for an equally large variety of climbing plants.
In turn, this serves as a habitat for a similarly varied range of
wildlife, lured by fruit, nesting spots, and dens. Although there
are 450 varieties of bird amid this forested area, by far the most
likely place to spot many of these is the Parque das Aves. With a
Capucin monkey, Parque Nacional Iguazú practiced eye, birds can also be spotted within the forests and
clearings of the national parks; the best time for bird-watching
is early in the morning and at dusk when toucans, parrots, and
hummingbirds abound. Some 80 kinds of mammals, with five
varieties of feline, including jaguars and pumas, also rove the
forest. Early morning and evening are the best time to see
animals, with monkeys sometimes seen drinking from pools
in the Argentinian park, or swinging overhead through the
forest’s canopy. The most commonly sighted mammal is the
coati. One of the great joys of Iguaçu during the warm summer
Coati, one of the most commonly spotted months is the immense quantity and variety of colorful
mammals in the park butterflies that flutter about.
The bright colors of the historic downtown area of Curitiba, Paraná

7 Florianópolis & Ilha de Santa Catarina

Santa Catarina’s capital, Florianópolis, is one of South
America’s hippest destinations. A gateway to the Ilha de
Santa Catarina, the sprawling urban center of Florianópolis
is also the main transport hub for the island. The industrial
zone occupies the mainland, while the colonial center sits
across the bay on the island. The island’s north shore has
pretty beaches and warm, tranquil waters that are popular
with families. The Atlantic rollers of the east coast have made
the island one of the world’s great surfing centers. In the
daytime, Praia Mole and Praia Joaquina are crowded, while
the bars of Lagoa bustle until early morning. Colorful fishing boats moored in the village
of Riberão da Ilha
Canasvieras
During the summer (Dec–
Feb), the warm water and
safe swimming of the resort
Ingleses do
of Canasvieras especially Rio Vermelho
attract families from São
Paulo and Argentina. Praia dos
Ingleses
Cachoeira do Praia Grande/

Bom Jesus Moçambique
Ponta das
Canas São João do
Rio Vermelho
Praia de
Canasvieras 403
Praia da Barra
Canasvieras da Lagoa
Vargem
Grande 406
to nes
Praia de Jurerê o Ra
402
Ri
Costa da
Praia de Daniela Lagoa
401
Forte de
São José Santo Antônio
de Lisboa
Sambaqui
Praia do
Forte Cacupé
. Santo Antônio de Lisboa
This charming little village, with BAÍA
the church as its focal point, is the NORTE
best preserved of the island’s 18th-
century Azorean settlements. Fish-
ing provides the community’s basic
livelihood, along with tourism.
KEY
1 Centro da Lagoa, an important

fishing center, is primarily known FLORIANÓPOLIS
for its lively nightlife, stylish bars,
and restaurants.
101
Biguaçu
2 Campeche is renowned for one
of the finest beaches on the island.
3 Ribeirão da Ilha is mainly visited . Florianópolis 407
for its excellent seafood restaurants, The attractions of Florianópolis include
the prime attraction being oysters, Mercado Público, which features upbeat bars,
farmed just offshore. as well as some 120 stands with fruits,
Angelina
vegetables, seafood, and handicrafts.
Santa Catarina. n Terminal Rodo-
viário Santa Maria: Av Paulo Fontes
1101, (48) 3228 1095. Mercado
Público: R Jerônimo Coelho 60,
(48) 3240 4407. ® _ Pop Gay
Carnaval (Feb); Festa do Divino
(May, Jun or Jul); National Oyster
and Azorean Culture Festival (Oct)
∑ vivendofloripa.com.br
Barra da Lagoa Transport

This pleasant fishing village and beach sits at the mouth of the Canal k 7 miles (12 km) S of
da Barra da Lagoa. Lined with a choice of accommodations and Florianópolis, then bus or taxi.
restaurants, it is particularly lively in the summer season (Dec–Feb). @ for all beaches: Av Paulo
The clear river water is perfect for swimming. Fontes, Centro, Florianopólis.
Taxi: (48) 3240 6009.
. Praia Mole
Surfers and hang-
gliding enthusiasts
favor the laid-back
Praia Mole to showcase
their talents. A number
of pleasant beach bars
and eateries line the
relaxed beach.
Praia
Barra da
Lagoa
Barra Praia
Praia Joaquina
Ri o
da Lagoa B Mole
Brazil’s famous surfing center
arr
406
is backed by huge dunes. The
a
Lagoa da cold water and the rough sea

Conceição Joaquina
suggest caution.
Praia
Centro da Joaquina
Lagoa
Key
Praia do
Campeche
ILHA 406 Major road
DE SANTA Minor road
CATARINA Campeche
FLORIANÓPOLIS Praia da Armação

0 km 5
401 Morro das Pedras
0 miles 3
Carianos Armação
Aeroporto Lagoa 406
Internacional do Peri Pântano
de Florianópolis Praia Pântano
do Sul do Sul
282
Ribeirão Praia do
B A Í A Tapera da Ilha Saquinho
da Base
S U L 401
Tapera
da Sul
São José Caieira da
Barra do Sul
Palhoça
Barra do
Aririú
Rio GRande
Rande do Sul
R
The vast rolling pampas, rugged landscape, and fertile valleys
of the Serra Gaúcha range are the dominant physical features
of rio Grande do Sul. a distinctive regional identity emerged
with the semi-nomadic gaúcho, whose culture is still most
apparent here. although arable farming is important, the area
is dominated by large, sprawling cattle estancias or ranches.
In 1494, even before Brazil was officially The forested highlands had an
“discovered,” the Treaty of Tordesillas even smaller population. European
divided South America between Portugal immigrants settled here on small
and Spain. An imaginary line was drawn farms in the mid-18th century. These
through the continent with land to its agricultural, wine-producing colonies
west awarded to Spain and that to its grew rapidly and soon transformed the
east to Portugal. Although Brazil was Serra’s landscape and economy. By
Portuguese, the area that is now the early 19th century, Rio Grande do
Rio Grande do Sul was Spanish. Sul had become synonymous with
Neither power, however, controlled beef. The charque (dried beef ) industry
this frontier region. developed around the southern town
Even after Brazil’s independence in 1822, of Pelotas. The introduction of railroads
only a few military garrisons and small and refrigeration gave a further boost
coastal settlements existed here until to the industry.
the mid-1800s. Apart from its obvious Beautiful mountain resorts and
strategic significance, the economic extraordinary hiking can be found around
potential of this sparsely populated the canyons of Parque Nacional dos
province was gradually being recognized. Aparados da Serra. Both gaúcho and
Until the mid-19th century, indigenous European influences have instilled a
Guaraní people and gaúchos inhabited the distinct cultural identity in this state,
pampas, largely the preserve of wild cattle. offering a unique Brazilian experience.
Pastoral scene of cows grazing in Rio Grande do Sul

A tourist steam train readying for departure in Caxias do Sul
Exploring Rio Grande Do Sul

The pampas that characterize the interior of southern
and western Rio Grande do Sul are the state’s economic RIO GRANDE
heartlands. Porto Alegre, the state’s capital, is a bustling DO SUL
city which is culturally rich and ethnically diverse. The
windswept coast is for the most part unrelentingly bleak,
and is fringed by lagoons and sandbars, making it one of
the world’s longest beaches. The araucaria pine forests,
immense canyons, and terraced vineyards of Bento Key
Gonçalves and Flores da Cunha in the northeast make Area illustrated
perfect backdrops for charming country hotels, wineries,
and mountain resorts. In the far west, the ruins of São
Miguel das Missões are a haunting reminder of the
Ijuí
Jesuit legacy in Brazil. Santa Barbara
do Sul
SÃO MIGUEL
DAS MISSÕES Ibirubá Tapera
Jóia Cruz Alta
Sights at a Glance Bossoroca
Represa
Towns & Cities Passo Real
Capão do Cipó
1 Porto Alegre pp356–7 Jacuizinho
Tupanciretã
2 Nova Petrópolis Salto
i
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9 Antônio Prado do Sul
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National Parks & Beach Resorts do Sul Restinga Seca
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RIO GRANDE
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5 Vale dos Vinhedos p359
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RIO GRANDE DO SUL  355
Key
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Major road
Minor road
Railroad
State border
Freshwater fishing bird on the coast of Rio Grande do Sul

Passo Fundo
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Porto Alegre, the state’s capital, has an airport which
Estreito
Pir
ati serves the capital cities of neighboring countries and
ni
major Brazilian cities. Excellent roads and good bus services
São José
Rio Grande do Norte connect all parts of Rio Grande do Sul with Porto Alegre.
Cassino Well-surfaced highways even connect most of the smallest
towns and villages. It is essential to have a hire car, or to
make advance arrangements to be met by a guide in the
nearest town, if an estancia (ranch) stay has been organized.
The Serra range is about two hours from Porto Alegre, and
the most direct route is the congested BR-116 highway.
1 Porto Alegre P Praça da Matriz

Catedral Metropolitana: Tel (51) 3225
Founded in 1772 on the right bank of the Rio Guaiba, 4980. Open 7:30am–7:30pm daily.
7 Museu Júlio de Castilhos: Tel (51)
Porto Alegre served as a Portuguese military garrison that
3221 3959. Open 8am–7pm Mon–Fri.
guarded against Spanish encroachment into southern Palácio Piratini: Tel (51) 3210 4100.
Brazil. Today, it is Rio Grande do Sul’s capital and an Open 8am–7pm Mon–Fri. 8 7
important hub for culture, business, and events. The city Teatro São Pedro: Tel (51) 3227 5100.
has some impressive public buildings and a lively street Open noon–6pm Tue–Fri, 4–6pm Sat
& Sun (subject to change – phone
life. Most sights are located in the Centro Histórico, ahead). 8 -
Cidade Baixa, Moinhos de Vento, and Rio Guaiba’s
waterfront, where the best accommodations, restaurants, Designed by Italian architect
Giovanni Giovenale, the 1773
and entertainment are also to be found. Catedral Metropolitana
features graceful classical
( Mercado Público columns, geometric designs,
Praça XV de Novembro. and a large hemispherical
Open 7:30am–7:30pm Mon–Fri, dome. The present structure
7:30am–6:30pm Sat. 7 dates from 1921.
Dating back to 1869, the Neo- Just off Praça da Matriz is the
Classical-influenced Mercado Museu Júlio de Castilhos, with
Público has a vast collection of artifacts relating to the region’s
stalls selling household goods, history. The imposing Palácio
fruit, vegetables, herbs, wine, Piratini, just west of the
meat, and fish. Characteristic of cathedral, houses the state
the region are the herb stalls government and the governor’s
selling chá mate (herbal tea) as residence. It was built in 1909 in
well as bombas and cuias (silver a mix of Neo-Classical, Baroque,
straws and drinking gourds). Also and Rococo styles. To the
of interest are the stalls devoted square’s north, the grand Neo-
to African-Brazilian religions, a Classical Teatro São Pedro is the
reminder of the importance of city’s prestigious concert hall
those traditions in a part of the and cultural complex that
country associated primarily Façade of the Mercado Público, an excellent includes educational facilities
with European culture. market for regional items and a popular restaurant.
Porto Alegre City Center

1 Mercado Público Rodoviária
Bus Station
2 Catedral Metropolitana
3 Museu Júlio de Castilhos Trensurb
Station Mercado
4 Palácio Piratini Público
RU
5 Teatro São Pedro

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Caminhos Rurais
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9 miles (14 km)

0 meters 500
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST is a collection of small properties

offering rural and ecotourism
Practical Information experiences ranging from agro-
* 1,409,000. n Mercado do ecological practices to horse-
Bonfim, Loja 12, Parque riding and organic wine tasting.
Farroupilha, (0800) 517 686.
_ Semana Farroupilha (Sep).
∑ portoalegre.travel
2 Nova Petrópolis
Transport 66 miles (106 km) N of Porto Alegre.
k 4 miles (6 km) N of city. @
* 20,000. @ n Torre Turística: Av
XV de Novembro 100, (54) 3281 1398.
_ Festa do Folclore (Jul), Frühlingsfest
1923 by German architect Theo (Oct). ∑ novapetropolis.rs.gov.br
Wiedersphan. For many years,
it was also the home of Mário German immigrants arriving
Ornate foyer of the Neo-Classical Teatro Quintana, one of the state’s in the 1820s were the first to
São Pedro foremost poets. Today, it hosts settle in the hills north of Porto
a range of attractions including Alegre. Nova Petrópolis, founded
E Museu de Arte do Rio cinema, theatre, and exhibitions in 1858, remained relatively
Grande do Sul relating to art and literature. isolated until the mid-20th
Praça da Alfândega. Tel (51) 3227 century and retains a strong
2311. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun. E Usina do Gasômetro German character.
^ = - 0 ∑ margs.rs.gov.br Av Presidente João Goulart 551. Stretching along Avenida 15 de
Late 20th-century works by local Tel (51) 3289 8112. Open 9am–9pm Novembro, the town’s commer-
artists are prominently displayed Tue–Fri, 10am–9pm Sat & Sun. cial center features a number of
in this museum. More absorbing, Built in 1928 as a thermo-electrical German-style buildings. Midway
however, is the small section power station, the Usina opened along the avenue is the Parque
devoted to 19th-century art. The in 1991 as a cultural center Aldeia do Imigrante, which
museum also hosts a number of hosting theater and art exhi- pays tribute to the region’s
interesting traveling exhibitions. bitions. It also houses a wine early settlers. Set within an
museum and an art-house araucaria forest, the park houses
E Santander Cultural cinema. The west-facing terrace beautifully reconstructed,
Rua 7 de Setembro 1028. Tel (51) 3287 offers spectacular views of the half-timbered buildings dating
5500. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat, sunset over the lake. A tourism between 1870 and 1910, which
1pm–7pm Sun. 7 stand offers information on boat re-create the atmosphere of a
This vibrant arts complex features trips from the adjacent pier. 19th-century German hamlet.
an impressive repertoire of music, The park also hosts festivals and
cinema, and art exhibitions. The E Museu de Ciência concerts and features a large
Neo-Classical building originally e Tecnologia bandstand as well as a beer hall.
served as a bank between 1927 Av Ipiranga 6681. Tel (51) 3320 3521. The hamlets and farmsteads
and 1932. Despite extensive Open 9am–5pm Tue–Thu (to 9pm surrounding Nova Petrópolis
renovations, it retains many of Fri), 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. & = also have a German flavor,
its original features including At one of Latin America's largest and German is still the
stained-glass windows. science museums visitors can dominant language.
interact with more than
E Memorial do Rio Grande 800 experiments and observe Y Parque Aldeia do Imigrante
do Sul marine life in 30 aquariums. Av 15 de Novembro 1966. Tel (54) 3281
Praça da Alfândega. Tel (51) 3224 1254. Open 8am–5:30pm daily. & 7
7210. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Fri, E Brique da Redenção
2–6pm Sat. 7 Parque Farroupilha, Av José Bonifácio.
∑ memorial.rs.gov.br Open 9am–6pm Sun.
The memorial houses exhibits This weekly cultural fair in the
relating to the state’s social and city's popular park has 300 stalls
political history, the state archives selling food, crafts, jewelry, and
and an oral history center. antiques, and features perform-
ances by musicians, actors, and
E Casa de Cultura Mário capoeira artists.
Quintana
Rua dos Andrades 736. Tel (51) 3221 E Caminhos Rurais
7147. Open 9am–9pm Tue–Fri, Southern Porto Alegre.
noon–9pm Sun & hols. 7 ∑ caminhosrurais.com.br
∑ ccmq.rs.gov.br In the rural area, which covers a
This Neo-Classical building large part of Porto Alegre, A turreted German-style building in
was designed as a hotel in Caminhos Rurais, or Rural Paths, Nova Petrópolis
and European styles. The

presence of students from
local tourism colleges gives
the town a vibrant feel.
Environs
Most of the forests of the Serra
were devastated in the
19th century in the quest for
araucaria pine. Today, some
of this forested area is being
preserved. Approximately
5 miles (8 km) north of Canela
is the Parque do Caracol, a
forest reserve with a 429-ft
(131-m) waterfall. A highlight
here is the 927-step stairway
leading to the base of the
Swiss-style chalet, a common sight in Gramado cascade from where visitors
can best appreciate its force
3 Gramado road, much of the valley’s and the surrounding forests.
* 32,000. @ from Porto Alegre. original dense Mata Atlântica A farther 3 miles (5 km)
n Av Borges de Medeiros 1647, (54) (Atlantic rainforest) remains and north along the road from
3286 1475. _ Festival de Gramado the climate is warmer and Caracol is the Parque da
(Aug), Natal Luz (Nov 3–Jan 15). more humid. The Ecoparque Ferradura, a forest reserve
∑ gramado.rs.gov.br Sperry supports an abundance notable for the dramatic views
of fauna including coati, of the horseshoe-shaped Rio
Brazil’s best-known mountain toucans, and howler and Caí and of the Arroio Caçador
resort, Gramado mimics a capuchin monkeys. Forest canyon and waterfall.
central European village. The trails pass magnificent The area is a popular
hilly landscape, reaching just waterfalls that enhance the destination for adventure
2,706 ft (825 m) around valley’s scenic splendor. tourism, with rafting along the
Gramado, is quite dramatic The valley floor is cultivated fast-flowing Rio Paranhana.
and the views are fantastic. and picturesque. Half-timbered Rapeling down its gorge allows
The flower-filled Parque farm buildings, which were built for clos-up views of the terrain.
Knorr and the Lago Negro, by German immigrants in the
an artificial lake bordered 19th century, are to be seen Y Parque da Ferradura
by pine trees imported from alongside the road. Estrada do Caracol.
Germany’s Black Forest, Tel (54) 3278 9000.
allow for pleasant strolls. Y Ecoparque Sperry Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
“Swiss chalet” is the dominant Vale do Quilombo. Y Parque do Caracol
architectural style and the Tel (54) 99629 8765. Estrada do Caracol.
profusion of geranium-filled Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Tel (54) 3278 3035.
window boxes, chocolate shops, &80 Open 9am–5:30pm daily. &
and restaurants specializing in
cheese fondues, gives a feeling
of being in Switzerland. However, 4 Canela
only a very tiny minority of
* 38,000. @ from Porto Alegre.
the population is actually of n Central de Informações, Praça
Swiss origin. João Corrêa, (54) 3282 2200.
Gramado survives almost ∑ canela.rs.gov.br
entirely on tourism. During
the first two weeks in August, Chilly winters, refreshing
the city hosts the Festival de summers, and unspoilt nature
Gramado, one of Brazil’s most attract visitors to Canela, once a
prestigious film festivals, stop-off point for catlle being
which also attracts an inter- herded across Rio Grande do
national crowd. Sul’s grasslands. The town is
dominated by the Igreja Matriz
Environs Nossa Senhora de Lourdes, an
Just 4 miles (6 km) north imposing stone church built
from Gramado’s main avenue in 1953 in English Neo-Gothic
is the Vale do Quilombo. style, with other buildings Majestic waterfall, Parque do Caracol,
Approached by a steep dirt in an eclectic mix of local near Canela
5 Tour of Vale dos Vinhedos

Some of the best wine in Brazil is produced in Vale
dos Vinhedos. The majority of inhabitants here are
descendants of immigrants from Veneto, Italy, and life
in the Vale dos Vinhedos follows a pattern very similar
to that in the corner of northeast Italy. In an area of
virtual monoculture, grape is central to the year’s
activity, while the Catholic chapels are cornerstones
for the maintenance of Italian traditions.
6 Casa Valduga
Comfortable guest
rooms and Picturesque vineyard in the Vale
excellent food is dos Vinhedos
offered by this
pioneer of the
production of
7 Capela das Neves
high-quality
Built in 1907, this is the
Brazilian wines
earliest surviving chapel
and agritourism.
in Vale dos Vinhedos.
5 Vinícola Pizzato
Still small-scale producers, the
Pizzato family offers tastings and sell Veranópolis
Monte Belo an extensive range of wines.

do Sul
Bento
Gonçalves
Santa
Teresa
0 km 1
0 miles 1
Caxias do Sul
Porto Alegre
4 Famiglia Tasca 2 Memorial do Vinho
These typical stone and wood This small, fascinating 1 Capela das Graças
farm buildings are among the exhibition charts the Honoring Our Lady of
oldest wineries in the valley. development of the local Grace, this capela is one of
wine production from the many Catholic chapels
1875 to present. that are central to the
Key valley’s Italian immigrants.
Tour route
Other road
Tips for Drivers

Starting point: Bento Gonçalves
(see p360).
Length: Allow a full day to
visit several wineries and a stop
for lunch.
Driving conditions: The main 3 Vinícola Miolo
road is paved while the side roads The largest vineyard in the valley, Vinícola Miolo produces some
have good-quality gravel surfaces. of Brazil’s best wine. The visitors’ center tells the story of Miolo’s
development and allows tastings.

Environs
Garibaldi, a small town just
12 miles (20 km) south of Bento
Gonçalves, is known for its
surprisingly good champagne-
style sparkling wines. Part of the
attraction of getting to this little
town is the ride on the steam
engine known as Maria Fumaça,
or “Smoking Mary,” a name
commonly given to tourist
steam trains (see p424).
Passing through the land-
scape’s patchwork of vineyards,
Vinhos Salton, one of the many wineries in Bento Gonçalves the 15-mile (23-km) route is
covered in an hour and a half.
6 Bento Gonçalves to bottling. Tours culminate The high point of the journey is
* 115,000. @ n Rua Mal Deodoro with a tasting. Fine wines are the stop at an observatory
70, (54) 3055 7160/7163. also produced by some smaller overlooking the Rio das Antas
∑ turismobento.com.br wineries. Visitors can find these at the point where the route
a short distance away from curves in a horseshoe shape.
Examine a bottle of Brazilian town, around the beautiful
wine and, in all likelihood, Vale dos Vinhedos (see p359).
the label will indicate Bento Adventure lovers can try 7 Caxias do Sul
Gonçalves as its place of origin. extreme sports such as * 395,000. ~ @ n Praça
Bento, as the city is usually bungee-jumping, climbing, and Dante Alighieri, 0800 541 1875.
called, is one of the largest rapeling at the Parque de ∑ caxias.tur.br
producers of wine in Aventuras Gasper, Founded in 1875, Caxias do Sul –
Brazil, with virtually located 5.5 miles (9 km) or simply Caxias, as it is usually
every patch of land outside town. called – along with Bento
outside the city Gonçalves, was one of the earliest
growing vines. The Parque de Italian colonias to be established
city’s economy relies Aventuras Gasper in the Serra. Like its neighboring
mainly on grapes and Linha Eulália. Tel (54) 3454 settlements, commercial activity
wine production, as a Wine produced in 1072, (54) 99109 4824. at first revolved entirely around
result of which Bento’s Bento Gonçalves Open 8:15–11:30am, wine production, but over
vintners dominate the 1–6pm Mon–Fri. the next century other agro-
Brazilian market. processing industries, as well
Bento was one of the earliest Cooperativa Vinícola Aurora as textiles and metalworking,
Italian communities established Rua Olavo Bilac 500, Cidade Alta. developed. Today, Caxias is Rio
in the Serra Gaúcha in 1875. Tel (54) 3455 2000. Grande do Sul’s second-largest
However, the rapid growth of Open 8:15am–5:15pm Mon–Sat, city after Porto Alegre.
the city’s urban center in recent 8:30–11:30am Sun. 8 7 Although tower blocks and
decades has left few traces of E Museu do Imigrante other concrete buildings have
Italian influence during the Rua Erny Hugo Dreher 127, overtaken much of Caxias, some
early years of immigration. The (Planalto). Tel (54) 3451 1773. visible traces of the city’s heritage
Museu do Imigrante has a rich Open noon–6pm Tue–Sat. survive. The Museu Municipal,
collection of artifacts relating to
Bento’s pioneer settlers, with
rooms focusing on the arrival of
the immigrants and the central
role of the Catholic church in
the community and farming,
in particular viticulture.
The Cooperativa Vinícola
Aurora is the best known
cooperative, and Aurora is the
most prominent wine producer
in Brazil, with a membership
of some 1,300 families, most of
whom farm in the valley. Visitors
to the cooperative are shown
the entire production process
from the crushing of grapes Maria Fumaça, plying between Bento Gonçalves and Garibaldi
9 Antônio Prado
* 14,000. @ from Caxias do Sul.
n Rua Luiza Bocchese 68, (54) 3293
1500. ∑ antonioprado.com.br
The last of the major

settlements, Antônio Prado was
established in the Italian
colonial zone in 1886. Located
in the zone’s northern extreme
and, until fairly recently, with
poor links to other centers,
Artifacts displayed in Museu Casa de Pedra in Caxias do Sul Antônio Prado failed to make
the transition from farming
built in 1880 as a private forbears, making Flores da Cunha community to industrial town.
residence, documents the history the most Italian of Brazilian The lack of development is
of Caxias, starting with the arrival towns. Visit Museu Municipal to one of the reasons why the
of the first immigrants from learn more about its history. town was declared a National
Veneto. The museum’s permanent Heritage Site in 1989. Its
collection includes objects, docu- Environs particular attraction is its
ments, and photographs charting Located in a fertile and concentration of wooden,
the development of the city. picturesque valley, Otávio stone-base buildings erected
The Museu Casa de Pedra, Rocha, 8 miles (13 km) southwest by Italian immigrants.
housed in a carefully preserved of Flores da Cunha, is especially Clustered around the town’s
stone farmhouse built in 1878, striking, with vines extending central square, Praça Garibaldi,
sheds light on the lives of the down to the main streets. The and the roads that extend
pioneer settlers with displays of village has become a popular immediately off it, some 48
tools, furniture, and photographs. place to eat and there is a good historic buildings are protected
choice of restaurants specializing and perfectly maintained.
E Museu Casa de Pedra
in simple, but tasty, northern Most of the brightly painted
Rua Matteo Gianella 531, Bairro Santa
Italian country fare. clapboard structures with their
Catarina. Tel (54) 3901 1463. Open 9am–
Another 4 miles (7 km) west unchanged interiors have been
5pm Tue–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun. &
of Otávio Rocha is Nova Pádua, turned into shops or small
E Museu Municipal another wine-producing government offices.
Rua Visconde de Pelotas, 586. município, whose inhabitants One of these buildings is now
Tel (54) 3221 2423. Open 9am–5pm are descended from Venetian the town hall on Praça Garibaldi.
Tue–Sat. & 8 immigrants. The village’s focal Also located on Praça Garibaldi,
point is the church, character- the Museu de Antônio Prado
istically Italian in style with a bell offers a useful historical
8 Flores da Cunha tower set slightly to the side of overview of the development
the main structure. A little farther of the town.
* 30,000. @ from Caxias do Sul.
west, there are breathtaking views
Tel (54) 3292 1722. Museu Municipal:
Av Vinte e Cinco de Julho 1608, below onto the fast-flowing E Museu de Antônio Prado
(54) 3292 2777. ∑ floresdacunha. Rio das Antas and a landscape Rua Luisa Bochese 34.
rs.gov.br of the Antas Valley, a mix of Tel (54) 3293 5656. Open 8:30–
vineyards and primary forest. 11:45am Tue–Fri, 1:30–5pm Sat & Sun.
The fact that Flores da Cunha
boasts the title of the largest
wine-producing city in Brazil will
come as no surprise. Just about
every available patch of land in
the municipality is given to
grape vines and cantinas,
ranging from small artisan wine
producers to huge cooperatives.
The town of Flores da Cunha
itself is remarkable for its
beautiful setting and friendly
people, also to be found in the
surrounding villages, which
could be mistaken for Italian
farming communities. The
people maintain the Venetian
dialect of their immigrant Colorful stone-base wooden houses in Antônio Prado
border with the neighboring

state of Santa Catarina. Torres is
named for a series of huge
basalt rocks, or “towers,” that jut
into the ocean and break the
otherwise seemingly unending
beach. The towers are located in
the Parque da Guarita, on the
southern perimeter of town.
Between the sea-cliff towers are
sandy coves offering protection
from fierce Atlantic rollers. Stairs
lead to caves on the cliffs facing
the open sea, which were
formed over the course of
Araucaria pine trees above the Cânion do Itaimbezinho, Aparados da Serra millions of years by the force of
the ocean. From a hill at the
0 Parque Nacional Trilha do Rio do Boi, can be southern edge of the park,
dos Aparados da challenging for unseasoned
hikers. Due to the risk of
visitors can enjoy tremendous
views of the beautifully rugged
Serra flooding, the river is monitored coastline or trek through the
@ from Canela to Cambará do Sul, regularly around the trail. dunes of 2-mile- (4-km-) long
then taxi, or from Caxias do Sul or Nearby, is the Parque Nacional Praia de Itapeva. The water
Criciúma. n RS-427, km18, (54) 3251 da Serra Geral, with trails and at Itapeva is tranquil and
1277. Open 8am–6pm Tue–Sun. & the beautiful Canyon Fortaleza. favorable for swimming. Off
∑ icmbio.gov.br/parnaaparados The best season to visit the Torres’s coast is Ilha dos Lobos, a
daserra park is in winter (May to August), small island and wildlife refuge.
The highland plateau of Southern when visibility stretches to the
Brazil emerged from the accumu- base of the canyon and toward
lation of layers of ocean sediment, the coast. September is the
with the resulting rock formations worst time to come here, with
lifted up to form the Brazilian low cloud and heavy rainfall.
Shield. Some 150 million years During the rest of the year, fog
ago, lava poured onto the shield often obscures views, though
to create a thick layer of basalt it can lift very quickly.
rock. Cracks emerged at the edge
of the plateau, taking the form
of narrow, but deep, canyons. q Torres
It is around one of the largest
* 35,000. @ from Porto Alegre or
of these canyons – Canion do
Santa Catarina. n Rua José Antonio
Itaimbezinho – that the Parque
Picoral 79, Centro, (51) 3626 9150.
Nacional dos Aparados da Serra, ∑ torres.rs.gov.br
one of Brazil’s first national
parks, was created in 1959. The main highlight of the long
Canion do Itaimbezinho is a coastline of Rio Grande do Sul Waves lapping against the cliffs, Parque
2,360-ft- (720-m-) deep, 4-mile- is Torres, located near the da Guarita
(6-km-) long canyon featuring
several ecosystems merging into
one another with transition zones
The Rise and Collapse of Jesuit Missions
between them. The plateau For much of the 17th and 18th centuries, the
around Itaimbezinho is mainly Guaraní Indians of what is now northwestern Rio
given over to cattle pasture, while Grande do Sul, as well as parts of Argentina and
dense Mata Atlântica (see p113) Paraguay, were controlled by the Jesuits. The first
covers Itaimbezinho’s lower redução (community) was established in 1610; 30
reaches. The abundant flora others followed, including Brazil’s São Miguel, which
ranges from lichens and mosses was founded in 1632. Over time, Guaraní-influenced
Baroque music, architecture, painting, and sculpture
to orchids and other flowering
began to flourish. The Spanish and Portuguese
plants and giant araucaria pines. authorities became increasingly concerned about
Trails around the edge of the the power of the Jesuits, while Rome was worried
canyon are well marked, varying that the order was too independent of papal
in length between 1 mile (2 km) authority. In 1756, Spanish and Portuguese forces
and 4 miles (6 km), with Santa Cecilia, expelled the Jesuits. The missions were razed to the
observatories offering views of wood sculpture ground or abandoned to nature.
the canyon. The longest trail,
w São Miguel das Missões VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Surviving through centuries of neglect, the São Miguel Practical Information

Mission presents a fine example of the Guaraní-Baroque São Miguel. n (55) 3381 1294.
& _ Semana Farroupilha (Sep).
style, a blend of Iberian and indigenous architectural ∑ saomiguel-rs.com.br
elements. These influences are visible in architectural Museu das Missões: Rua São
details, particularly in the carved stonework and in the Nicolau s/n. Open 9am–noon,
wooden sculptures housed in the museum. The mission 2–6pm daily (winter); 9am–noon,
2–8pm daily (summer). 7 -
was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. = Sound & Light Show: 8pm
Although the area around São Miguel has been given over (winter), 9:30pm (summer) daily. &
to farmland, the mission retains an air of isolation. Transport
@ from Porto Alegre to Santo,
then bus.
The Bell
The mission’s bell was not Inner Corridors
only rung as a call to prayers, A network of corridors
but also to warn of attacks gives a sense of the
by roving gangs hunting extent of the original
for slaves. mission site, which at its
height housed 4,000
people.
The façade is a replica of Il Gesù,
the Jesuits’ mother church in Rome.
Only one of the two original towers
remains intact.
Brick and stonework,

made from local
materials, was mainly
used in the mission’s
construction.
Entrance
Museu das Missões Ruins of Jesuit Buildings

Designed in 1937 by Lúcio Costa, this early Little remains of the workshops, school
Modernist building was inspired by Jesuit- rooms, cloisters, and living quarters of the
Baroque architecture. The museum houses Jesuit mission. However, it is still possible to
statues and other relics excavated locally. make out their distinct areas in the ruins.
Travelers’
needs
Where to Stay 366–381

Where to Eat & Drink 382–397
Shopping in Brazil 398–399
Entertainment in Brazil 400–401
Specialized Holidays &
Outdoor Activities 402–405
366  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Given the size and diversity of Brazil, it is no fancy, all-inclusive, internationally known
surprise that the country offers an excellent resort properties, as well as Brazilian-owned
selection of accommodations to suit every chain and individual hotels. There are also
taste and pocket. Large cities have a wide small, privately owned establishments, or
range of business hotels that comprise pousadas, that may only have two or three
everything from budget brands and deluxe rooms and are either very simple and basic
international properties such as Grand Hyatt, or very sophisticated and, depending on
Sofitel, and Belmond (the latter formerly size, border on being boutique hotels.
known as Orient-Express), to privately There has also been a growth in good-
owned, cutting-edge boutique hotels such quality hostels. Some of the best places
as the Fasano and Unique in São Paulo. to stay are listed on pages 370–81. Prices
In tourist areas, the options include large, are quoted in US dollars.
Booking to be taken into consideration Credit cards are accepted as

Brazil is one of the most active if you want to move around, payment at most properties,
Internet countries in the world, since one or twonight stays especially in cities. Only the
and the majority of accommo may be difficult to find. Book larger hotels in bigger cities
dations have their own websites. in advance during high will handle traveler’s checks.
Many larger properties also season, as good rooms are Many places accept payment
appear on international booking not easy to come by at the in US dollars, but they will set
engines and travel sites such as last minute. Weekends can the exchange rate, which will
Expedia, Last Minute and also get quite crowded. often be high.
Booking.com, which may offer When booking, it is important
large discounts, sometimes up to to check what taxes are included
50%, on the room rates quoted Prices & Payments in the price. These may include
by the hotel. If booking online or by phone, a 10 percent service tax, a 5 per
In the age of the Internet, it is some properties will require cent sales tax, and, in some areas
important for the traveler to either a deposit or payment of Brazil, a nightly tourist tax.
check how financially protected in advance to cover the cost of Prices throughout Brazil vary
they are if they do book directly the entire duration of the stay, greatly, and it is rare that any
and the property they choose especially in high season or for traveler should ever need to pay
goes out of business. weekend specials. the rack rate as advertised by
During the high season Hotels that do not require a the hotels. Like airlines, hotels
(during Carnaval, the Christmas deposit or full payment in often make special offers
toNew Year period, and in July advance usually ask the client available even through their
and August), many hotels and to provide their credit card own websites. Some hotels –
pousadas in Brazil will expect details to secure the reservation. normally smaller, privately
guests to stay for a minimum Be careful to check the owned properties – still think
number of nights. This will need cancellation policy. they can charge different prices
The famous Copacabana Palace Hotel in Rio de Janeiro (see p370)

Street cafés in the World Heritage Site of Paraty, Rio de Janeiro
W H E R E TO S TAY  367
Chain Hotels
Brazil’s hotel chains include a
number of longestablished
Brazilian groups, such as Othon
and Tropical. There are also
several hundreds of modern
hotels throughout the country
that operate under different
international brands, such as the
Accor and Marriott groups.
Brazilian hoteliers have not
been left behind, with the intro
duction of Blue Tree, Bristol,
Bungalow accommodation at Txai Hotel, a deluxe boutique hotel in Itacaré (see p374) the Atlântica Hotels group
(which operates as Radisson,
for Brazilian travelers and resorts also have special child Clarion, Quality, Comfort Suites,
foreign visitors, so it is worth friendly areas, playrooms, and Four Points, Sleep Inn, and Go
checking the rates on the even separate kitchens for Inn), Transamérica, and in Rio
Portugueselanguage version mothers needing to prepare de Janeiro, Windsor Hoteis.
of the website. Prices also vary food for babies and smaller The majority of chain hotels,
due to exchange rates. The price children. Many large hotels which vary greatly in terms of
often reflects not only the can also organize babysitters. price, infrastructure and quality,
quality of the accommodation, Advise the hotel of the age of tend to be targeted at Brazilian
but also the location. Hotels in your children and any special and South American business
popular cities such as Rio de requirements you may need for travelers unless they are in obvi
Janeiro tend of course to be them in advance. If the hotel ous tourist destinations. Only the
more expensive than those in does not already have what properties in the tourist areas
smaller towns in the countryside. you need, it may be willing to are likely to consider adding a
There will also be notably obtain it by the time you arrive. Brazilian or tropical flavor to the
different rates for rooms at the surroundings or decorations.
front of a beachfront property
and those at the side or behind. Travelers with Special
Prices are likely to be higher in Needs Apart-Hotels
high season or on the weekend The situation for disabled Though not strictly for budget
except at some business and travelers in Brazil has greatly travelers, aparthotels, in most
chain hotels, which have improved in the 21st century, of the main Brazilian cities, offer
cheaper rates on weekends. but not all accommodation good value for money. These
options, especially the smaller come with one, two, or more
properties with narrow lifts or bedrooms, a living area, and a
Tipping those in the remoter areas of kitchen. Some will have
It is customary and much the country, can offer wheel restaurants and cafés, as well as
appreciated for guests to leave chair access or the facilities swimming pools and gyms.
a tip for the staff who have that disabled travelers may One of the main chains with
served them well during their require. Brazilians by nature, properties throughout Brazil is
stay. This could be the chamber however, will do everything Accor’s Parthenon group, while
maid, the bellboy, or bar staff. they can to assist, so do not in São Paulo, Transamérica Flats
Many of the people who serve hesitate to ask. is a very prominent brand.
visitors will be earning the
minimum wage of around
US$300 per month, so any tips
can make a real difference.
Children
Children are always welcome
at most hotels, with only a
very few smaller, normally
romantic pousadas having any
restrictions, which will be clearly
stated on their websites or at
the time of booking. The vast
majority of hotels and pousadas
in Brazil are childfriendly. Larger
properties will have high chairs Children’s playroom, a feature in many Brazilian hotels
and possibly cots, and many
pousadas that can be

considered budget
accommodation. There is
also a good and growing
network of modern and
comfortable hostels in Brazil
for those on a really tight
budget. New independent
hostels can be found right
across Brazil, from the tourist
areas of Rio de Janeiro, to the
business heart of São Paulo.
The website of the Federação
Brasileira de Albergues da
Juventude has a full list of
A brightly decorated room in Sandi, a pousada in Paraty (see p372) hostels in Brazil that are
approved by the organization.
Pousadas buildings in stunning natural
Outside of the main city and settings, such as in Brazil’s many
town centers, the majority of national parks. Most boutique Couchsurfing
accommodations on offer are hotels are expensive, but offer a This worldwide trend, where
smaller, privately owned proper- personalised experience. They visitors can get a free bed for
ties, many in historic, colonial- are particularly popular for the night in private houses, has
era villas and mansions. Pousadas honeymoons and for other been taking off in Brazil. More
vary dramatically in terms of special occasions. common in larger towns and
cost, quality, and facilities cities, couchsurfing gives
offered. Some will be very basic travelers the opportunity to
but certainly clean, while others Resorts meet local families and to
can be considered world-class World-class resorts, many experience the domestic lives
boutique hotels set in lovely all-inclusive, can be found of Brazilians firsthand. Visit
locations. Pousadas are usually across Brazil. One of the largest couchsurfing.org for places
charming, offer good value, and is the Costa do Sauípe, just on offer, along with details of
give a real flavor of Brazil. north of Salvador, and close the host families.
It is a good idea to visit the by in Praia do Forte, Tivoli Similarly, Homestays and
website of an individual Ecoresort, Iberostar Praia AirBnB are good budget
pousada to see the pictures do Forte, and Iberostar options, with listings of rooms
of the property and what it has Bahia. Among the best available throughout Brazil.
to offer. Most good tour opera- are Transamérica on Ilha de
tors know the best pousadas Comandatuba in Bahia, Ponta
in each category and area. dos Ganchos in Santa Catarina, Private Rentals
Roteiros de Charme, a network Nannai in Porto de Galinhas, Ideal for families and groups of
of outstanding pousadas, is also and Sofitel Jequitimar in friends, houses and apartments
very useful, as is the Hidden Guarujá, to name but a few. can be rented through various
Pousadas website. In the Vale agencies, such as Aluguel
do Café region in Rio de Temporada, Brazilian Beach
Janairo State, a network of Budget Options House, and Brazil Rent My
pousadas offer stays in some of In the main areas visited Home. The huge variety of
the country’s grandest old by tourists, there are many accommodations on offer
coffee fazendas.
If staying in Rio de Janeiro,
check out Cama a Café, an
organization that looks after
many bed-and-breakfast
options across the city, the
majority in Santa Teresa. These
offer the chance to stay in a
room in a local resident’s house.
Boutique Hotels
Luxuriously appointed hotels,
these usually have only about a
dozen rooms or fewer. Some are
housed in beautiful historic The Costa do Sauípe Golf & Spa, Bahia (see p374)
ranges from simple options to

luxuriously appointed places
with even chauffeur, cook and
maid services.
Motels
Motels in Brazil have nothing in
common with the ones to be
found in North America or in
Europe. In Brazil, these tend to
be “love hotels,” renting rooms
out to couples by the hour.
Guests are not normally encour Camping in the Serra dos Órgãos National Park
aged to spend more than one
night at these establishments. one, is useful in ecotourist hotel, an airport locker, or at the
regions, such as the Amazon city office of the lodge prior to
and the Pantanal. making the transfer.
Camping
Brazil offers a massive number
of places where it is possible Lodges Recommended Hotels
to camp. However, campers The majority of wildlife lodges The many different hotels,
should make sure they have that will help visitors to see and resorts, pousadas, and lodges in
not wandered on to private enjoy some of the remoter parts this book have been carefully
property or into a restricted of Brazil are located in the selected for their facilities, good
area. Security, too, is an issue, Amazon (see p378) and the location, and value. A wide
and not just from miscreants, Pantanal (see pp379–80). While variety of accommodations is
but also from Brazilian wildlife. there are some outstanding covered, from lodges in remote
If you are not an experienced exceptions, the facilities and rainforest locations, to stylish
camper, you should stick to home comforts of many of boutique hotels in Brazil’s
official campsites, the majority these lodges may be quite basic, towns and cities.
of which are run and organized since visitors are more keen on Entries labeled as DK Choice
by the Camping Clube do exploring the surrounding highlight establishments that are
Brasil. If using one of the countryside, flora, and fauna. exceptional or notable in some
national parks, check first with It is recommended for travelers way – for their stunning location,
the park authorities where to consider traveling light, outstanding rooms, superb
camping is permitted. Having leaving the bulk of their restaurant, excellent service, or
your own tent, or hiring belongings back in the main a combination of these.
DIRECTORY
Booking Marriott Hidden Pousadas Homestays
∑ marriott.co.uk Tel (21) 98122 2000. ∑ homestay.com/brazil
Expedia ∑ hiddenpousadas ∑ couchsurfing.org
∑ expedia.com Othon brazil.com
Tel (0800) 725 0505. Private Rentals
Last Minute ∑ othon.com.br Roteiros de Charme
∑ lastminute.com Tel (21) 2287 1592. Aluguel Temporada
Transamérica ∑ roteirosdecharme.
Tel (21) 3956 9709.
Chain Hotels Tel (0800) 012 4400. com.br
∑ aluguetemporada.
∑ transamericagroup. Vale do Café
Accor com.br
com.br Tel (24) 2471 7462.
Tel (0800) 703 7000. Brazil Rent My House
∑ accor.com.br Tropical ∑ portalvaledo
cafe.com.br ∑ brazilrentmyhouse.
Tel (0800) 70 12670. com
Atlântica Hotels
∑ tropicalhotel.com.br
Tel (0800) 55 5855. Budget Options Brazilian Beach House
∑ atlanticahotels. Windsor Hoteis Tel (598) 2605 6913.
com.br Federação Brasileira
Tel (11) 3259 5323. ∑ brazilianbeach
de Albergues da
Blue Tree ∑ windsorhoteis.com Juventude house.com
Tel (0300) 150 5000. ∑ hihostelbrazil.com.br
∑ bluetree.com.br Pousadas Camping
Cama a Café
Couchsurfing
Bristol Camping Clube do
Tel (0800) 645 1816. Tel (21) 2225 4366. AirBnB Brasil
∑ bristolhoteis.com.br ∑ camacafe.com.br ∑ airbnb.com ∑ campingclube. com.br
Where to Stay
CENTRO: Novotel Santos Price Guide
Rio de Janeiro City Dumont $$ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
a standard double room, inclusive of
Business Map 5 F4
service charges and taxes.
AIRPORT: Linx $$ Rua Marechal Câmara 300
Business Tel (21) 3506 8500 $ up to US$100
Av Vinte de Janeiro s/n ∑ novotel.com S$ US$100 to US$250
$$$ over US$250
Tel (21) 2468 3400 A modern, well-equipped, no-
∑ linxriodejaneiro.com.br frills Novotel, the Santos Dumont
This is the best choice if you is well positioned for those COPACABANA & LEME:
need suitable accommodation working downtown or taking Windsor Leme $$
near the international airport for domestic flights from Santos Boutique Map 3 D4
connecting flights. Dumont airfield. Av Atlântica 656
Tel (21) 2195 7800
BARRA DA TIJUCA: CENTRO: Vila Galé Rio de ∑ windsorhoteis.com
Royal Tulip São Conrado $$ Janeiro $$ This is a luxury, stylish, top-of-the-
Resort Historical Map 5 D5 line hotel on the beachfront, with
Rua Aquarela do Brasil 75 Rua Riachuelo 124 chic rooms. The rooftop pool area
Tel (21) 3323 2200 Tel (21) 2460 4500 offers glorious views of the beach.
∑ royaltulipriodejaneiro.com ∑ vilagale.com/en/hotels/rio-de-
The England soccer team stayed janeiro/vila-gale-rio-de-janeiro
here during the 2014 World Cup. Located close to Lapa and DK Choice
It offers great views and the pool downtown Rio, this renovated COPACABANA & LEME:
area is one of the best in Rio. colonial-era mansion has a Copacabana Palace $$$
pleasant mix of new and old. The Historic Map 3 E2
BARRA DA TIJUCA: rooms are tasteful and elegant. Av Atlântica 1702
Windsor Barra $$$ Good base for sightseeing. Tel (21) 2548 7070
Business ∑ belmond.com/copacabana
Av Lucio Costa 2630 CENTRO: Windsor Asturias $$ palace
Tel (21) 2195 5000 Business Map 5 E5 Famous in Rio and around the
∑ windsorhoteis.com Rua Senador Dantas 14 world, with a guest list of
With extensive event facilities, this Tel (21) 2195 1500 celebrities to match, this top-end
large modern beachfront property ∑ windsorhoteis.com luxury grand beachfront hotel
is popular for conferences. There This good, standard business from Belmond, first opened in
are good beach and sea views hotel, housed in a 1930s building, 1923. It features Rio’s best and
from most rooms. has a rooftop terrace with most glamorous hotel pool.
lovely views.
CENTRO: Manga $
Hostel Map 5 D5 COPACABANA & LEME: COPACABANA & LEME:
Rua do Lavradio 186 Rio Lancaster $$ JW Marriott $$$
Tel (21) 3852 5742 Business Map 3 F2 Luxury Map 3 D3
∑ mangahostelrio.com Av Atlântica 1470 Av Atlântica 2600
Close to Rio’s street party scene Tel (21) 2169 8300 Tel (21) 2545 6500
in Lapa, this hostel is also well ∑ hotelriolancaster.com.br ∑ marriott.com
located for sightseeing and The front rooms of this Art This boutique hotel is one of Rio’s
the metro for the Ipanema, Deco building on Copacabana best choices for staying on the
and Copacabana beaches. beachfront have balconies and Copacabana beachfront. The
Dormitories have bright beautiful views. rooftop terrace offers amazing
colours and basic amenities. views of Sugar Loaf Mountain.
COPACABANA & LEME:
Sofitel Rio $$ COPACABANA & LEME:
Luxury Map 3 D5 Porto Bay Rio Internacional $$$
Av Atlântica 4240 Business Map 3 F2
Tel (21) 2525 1232 Av Atlântica 1500
∑ sofitel.com Tel (21) 2546 8000
There are stunning views along ∑ portobay.com
the beach from the large pool The roof terrace at this beachfront
area at this hotel located at the hotel has sweeping views of
Ipanema end of Copacabana Copacabana. Corner rooms have
beach. All rooms have a balcony. floor-to-ceiling windows.
COPACABANA & LEME: COPACABANA & LEME: Rio

Windsor Excelsior $$ Othon Palace $$$
Business Map 3 E2 Business Map 3 D3
Av Atlântica 1800 Av Atlântica 3264
Tel (21) 2195 5800 Tel (21) 2106 1500
∑ windsorhoteis.com ∑ othon.com.br
This is a solid choice for a beach- Towering, landmark hotel on
front business hotel near to but the beachfront. The rooms and
The façade and entrance of the Porto Bay cheaper than the Copacabana facilities are a bit dated, but
Rio Internacional, Copacabana Palace. It has a rooftop pool. many have spectacular views.
IPANEMA & LEBLON: Praia

Ipanema $$
Business Map 1 C5
Av Vieira Souto 706
Tel (21) 2141 4949
∑ praiaipanema.com
This pleasant hotel on Ipanema
beachfront has a small rooftop
pool, bar, and restaurant. The
light and airy rooms have tiled
floors and balconies.
IPANEMA & LEBLON: Sol

Ipanema $$
Business Map 2 A5
Av Vieira Souto 320
Tel (21) 2525 2020
∑ solipanema.com.br
Book a seafront room for the
The opulent lobby at the Windsor Atlântica view at this hotel in an excellent
beachfront location in the very
COPACABANA & LEME: heart of Ipanema close to
Windsor Atlântica $$$ DK Choice restaurants, bars, and stores. It
Luxury Map 3 F1 IPANEMA & LEBLON: has a small rooftop pool.
Av Atlântica 1020 Mango Tree $
Tel (21) 2195 7800 Hostel IPANEMA & LEBLON:
∑ windsorhoteis.com Rua Prudente de Moraes 594 Caesar Park $$$
This stylish flagship property Tel (21) 2287 9255 Luxury Map 2 A5
from the Windsor Group has ∑ mangotreehostel.com Av Vieira Souto 460
wonderful views and excellent This 1930s colonial-style house Tel (21) 2525 2525
facilities including a rooftop located a block away from ∑ sofitel.com
pool and terrace, a spa, and Ipanema beach became a local Under Sofitel management, the
two restaurants. The staff are hotspot after hosting Norway’s stylish Caesar Park has been a
friendly and helpful. sailing team during the 2016 popular choice for business and
Olympics. It offers high comfort, leisure travelers for decades. It has
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO: a friendly, laidback atmosphere, a small pool and rooftop terrace.
Discovery $ and a sumptuous Brazilian One of Ipanema’s very best.
Hostel breakfast. Try the caipirinhas.
Benjamin Constant 26 IPANEMA & LEBLON:
Tel (21) 3449 0672 Fasano $$$
∑ discoveryhostel.com IPANEMA & LEBLON: Luxury Map 2 B5
Located in Glória, a short Hotel Arpoador $$ Av Vieira Souto 80
distance from the metro, this Business Map 2 C5 Tel (21) 3202 4000
terrific small hostel has private Rua Francisco Otaviano 177 ∑ fasano.com.br
rooms and a studio apartment, Tel (21) 2523 0060 There are lovely sea views from
as well as shared dorms.There’s ∑ hotelarpoador.com all the rooms at this chic, stylish,
a bar, lounge, and small patio. At this little gem, rooms are simple boutique hotel with a gorgeous
but slightly dated. It does not have rooftop pool deck, a great
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO: a pool, but there’s a short path restaurant, and fashionable bar.
El Misti $ between the hotel and beach.
Hostel Book a high-up oceanfront room. IPANEMA & LEBLON:
Praia de Botafogo 462, Casa 9 Sheraton Grand Rio $$$
Tel (21) 2226 0991 IPANEMA & LEBLON: Ipanema Resort
∑ elmistibota.com Plaza $$ Av Niemeyer 121
Close to Botafogo metro station, Business Map 2 B5 Tel (21) 2529 1122
beach, and Sugar Loaf Mountain, Rua Farme de Amoedo 34 ∑ sheraton-rio.com.br
this excellent hostel has shared Tel (21) 3687 2000 Rio’s largest resort property
dorms and private rooms. There ∑ ipanemaplaza.com.br is located almost on its own
is a large shared kitchen, chill out This popular Ipanema hotel with beach just a short hop along
area with games, and a library a rooftop terrace is located one the coast from Leblon. A great
block back from the beach, close choice for families.
IPANEMA & LEBLON: to many restaurants and bars.
Ipanema B&B $ SANTA TERESA: Santa
Hostel Map 2 C5 IPANEMA & LEBLON: Teresa $$$
Rua Canning 18, Casa 1 Mar Ipanema $$ Luxury
Tel (21) 2287 2928 Business Map 1 C4 Av Alm Alexandrino 660
∑ ipanemabb.com Rua Visconde de Pirajá 539 Tel (21) 3380 0200
Conveniently located within Tel (21) 3875 9191 ∑ santateresahotelrio.com
walking distance of both ∑ maripanema.com This boutique hotel is tucked away
Copacabana and Ipanema Located on the main shopping in bohemian Santa Teresa. Far
beaches, this hostel offers dorms street and just two blocks from from the beach and Copacabana,
and suites. The pleasant rooftop the beach, the Mar Ipanema has it is an oasis of calm. Stylish
terrace has hammocks to relax in. elegant, tasteful rooms. rooms overlook the gardens.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 366–9
Rio de Janeiro State

& Espírito Santo
Rio de Janeiro State
ANGRA DOS REIS: Vila Galé
Eco Resort $$$
Resort
Estrada Vereador Benedito Adelino
8413, Fazenda Tanguá
Tel (24) 3379 2800
∑ vilagale.com.br
This well-structured, comfortable
resort property is located on its
own beach and is excellent for
families. This is one of the major
resorts that is closest to Rio. The sun deck at Vila d’Este, Búzios, offering beautiful views of sea and sky
BÚZIOS: Abracadabra $$$ ILHA GRANDE: Ancoradouro $$ PARATY: Casa Turquesa $$$
Pousada Pousada Pousada
Alto do Humaitá 13 Rua da Praia 121 A1, Abraão Rua Doutor Pereira 50
Tel (22) 2623 1217 Tel (24) 3361 5153 Tel (24) 3371 1037
∑ abracadabrapousada.com.br ∑ pousadancoradouro.com.br ∑ casaturquesa.com.br
Just 5 minutes from the center of This cute pousada, typical of Understated class is the mark
the action in Rua das Pedras, this those to be found in and around of this stylish and romantic
small, well-appointed pousada the main town of Ilha Grande, pousada in the historic center,
offers a stunning swimming pool offers spacious and clean rooms. a perfect base from which to
with great views over the Atlantic. explore the town.
ILHA GRANDE: Naturalia $$
BÚZIOS: Casas Brancas Pousada PARATY: Literária $$$
Boutique Hotel & Spa $$$ Rua da Praia 149 Pousada
Boutique Tel (24) 3361 9583 Rua do Comércio 362
Rua Alto do Humaitá 10 ∑ pousadanaturalia.net Tel (24) 3371 1460/1568
Tel (21) 2623 1458 A short walk from where the ∑ pousadaliteraria.com.br
∑ casasbrancas.com.br boats dock and from the center This pousada has a literary theme,
Slightly larger than the pousadas of town, this comfortable reflecting the fact that the town
but with many extra facilities, this pousada is well positioned for holds South America’s leading
hotel has individually decorated. exploring the island. literary festival. The rooms are
rooms, some with a balcony and spacious and have tasteful decor.
a private pool.
DK Choice PETRÓPOLIS: Grande Hotel $$
ILHA GRANDE: Pousada Historic
DK Choice do Preto $$ Rua do Imperador 545
BÚZIOS: Insolito Boutique Pousada Tel (24) 2244 6500
Hotel $$$ Praia do Bananal ∑ grandehotelpetropolis.com.br
Boutique Tel (24) 9 9968 9310 In a perfect location for
Rua E1, Lotes 3 and 4, Praia da ∑ pousadadopreto.com.br sightseeing, this hotel balances
Ferradura Tucked away on a small beach, the modern with the historic.
Tel (22) 2623 2172/5210 this cozy Japanese-Brazilian
∑ insolitohotel.com pousada brings guests by boat PETRÓPOLIS: Solar do Império$$
In a beautiful location on the from Angra dos Reis to a Historic
edge of Praia da Ferradura, one homely building next to a Av Koeller 376
of the region’s very best brook. This is an ideal hideaway Tel (24) 2103 3000
beaches, this stylish French- for those looking to forget ∑ solardoimperio.com.br
owned hotel offers the highest urban life while enjoying boat Set in two large houses that date
comfort and relaxation. It has trips to Ilha Grande’s beaches. from 1875 and 1983, this small
individually styled suites, a All meals are served in high classic hotel is well positioned
wellness center, lovely pool season; breakfast and dinner for sightseeing.
areas, and a good restaurant. only in low season.
Espírito Santo
BÚZIOS: Vila d’Este $$$ PARATY: Sandi $$ VITORIA: Golden Tulip Porto
Pousada Pousada Vitoria $
Alto do Humaitá 11 Largo do Rosário 1 Business
Tel (22) 2623 1546 Tel (11) 2503 0195/01956 Av Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes 635
∑ viladeste.eco.br ∑ pousadadosandi.com.br Tel (27) 3533 1300
A cross between a pousada and Set in a colonial building in ∑ goldentulipportovitoria.com
boutique hotel, within walking Paraty’s historic center, the Sandi Providing good value, this
distance of town, this is full of character, which captures modern, well-appointed hotel
establishment has a good the spirit of the town. Comfortable has good facilities and enjoys a
restaurant and a pool deck. rooms have stylish furnishings. central location.
For key to prices see page 370
VITORIA: Senac Ilha do Boi $$ OURO PRETO: Mondego $$

Business Pousada São Paulo City
Rua Bráulio Macedo 417 Largo do Coimbra 38
Tel (27) 3345 0111 Tel (31) 3552 7700 AIRPORT (GUARULHOS):
∑ hotelilhadoboi.com.br ∑ mondego.com.br Pullman São Paulo $$
As a part of Brazil’s national hotel Set in a colonial building, this Business
and catering school, this hotel comfortable pousada is located Rodovia Hélio Smidt s/n
offers great value and excellent close to the main square and is a Tel (11) 2124 5800
food. The setting is lovely, in one perfect base for exploring Ouro ∑ pullmanhotels.com
of Vitoria’s nicest neighborhoods, Preto. The pleasant bistro offers Close to the airport, this is a good
and offers great views. light meals. option if you have flight connec-
tions to make. The shuttle takes
10 minutes to reach the terminals.
DK Choice
Minas Gerais OURO PRETO: Solar do JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA:
Rosário $$ Viva Hostel Design $
BELO HORIZONTE: Holiday Inn Pousada Hostel
Belo Horizonte $$ Rua Getúlio Vagas 270 Rua Girassol 1262
Business Tel (31) 3551 5200/5040 Tel (11) 3812 9142
Rua Professor Moraes 600 ∑ hotelsolardorosario.com.br ∑ vivahostel.com.br
Tel (31) 3064 6555 This small hotel has traditional This colorful, popular, well-
∑ ihg.com charm, coupled with modern located hostel has clean, modern,
This convenient and modern comforts. It includes lovely spacious rooms or small dorms.
Holiday Inn offers all you would gardens and pools, a gym, and
expect from the chain. an excellent restaurant. Close to JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA:
the historic center, it is handy Porto Bay L’Hotel $$
BELO HORIZONTE: Ouro for sightseeing around Ouro Boutique Map 4 F3
Minas Palace $$ Preto on foot. Alameda Campinas 266,
Business Jardim Paulista
Av Cristiano Machado 4001 Tel (11) 2183 0500
Tel (31) 3429 4001 PARQUE NACIONAL DA SERRA ∑ portobay.com
∑ ourominas.com.br DO CIPÓ: Cipó Veraneio $$ Well-located for Avenida Paulista,
Considered by many to be Pousada this popular, small and friendly
the top business hotel in Belo Rodovia MG-010, Km 94 hotel offers European-style
Horizonte, this is a fashionable Tel (31) 3718 7000 elegance and service.
venue for events and conferences. ∑ cipoveraneiohotel.com.br
With a lovely garden and pool on JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA:
OURO PRETO: Grande Hotel the edge of the River Cipo, this Emiliano $$$
Ouro Preto $ pleasant hotel has simple rooms. Luxury Map 4 D3
Pousada Rua Oscar Freire 384
Rua Senador Rocha Lagoa 164 TIRADENTES: Pequena Tel (11) 3069 4369
Tel (31) 3551 1488 Tiradentes $$ ∑ emiliano.com.br
∑ grandehotelouropreto.com.br Historical A stylish boutique hotel that is
Designed by Oscar Niemeyer in Av Governador Israel Pinheiro 670 considered one of the city’s best,
1938, this historic hotel has Tel (32) 3355 1262 Emiliano is well located for both
gardens created by Burle Marx. ∑ pequenatiradentes.com.br business and leisure.
The panoramic restaurant offers Inspired by the history and
views over Ouro Preto, as do architecture of old Tiradentes, the
the duplex suites. rooms at this small hotel look like DK Choice
typical houses, and the corridors JARDINS & AVENIDA
are like streets with plants and PAULISTA: Fasano $$$
streetlights. A fun spot for families. Luxury Map 4 D3
Rua Vittorio Fasano 88
TIRADENTES: Solar da Ponte $$ Tel (11) 3896 4000
Pousada ∑ fasano.com.br
Praça das Mercês s/n Offering exclusive style, charm,
Tel (32) 3355 1255 and five-star comfort, Fasano
∑ solardaponte.com.br boasts the Fasano Italian
Old-style hospitality and modern restaurant and the bar Baretto,
comforts are found at this well- both considered among the
maintained pousada in the historic best in their class, as well as a
center of Tiradentes, set up in 1974 lovely pool and spa.
by a British engineer and his wife.
TIRADENTES: Três Portas $$ JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA:

Pousada Unique $$$
Rua Direita 280A Luxury Map 4 E5
Tel (32) 3355 1444 Av Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4700
∑ pousadatresportas.com.br Tel (11) 3055 4710
This delightful rustic pousada ∑ hotelunique.com.br
with cozy rooms is located in the This trendy boutique hotel has a
The pool at Belo Horizonte’s top business city’s main square and offers beautiful pool area, superb
hotel, Ouro Minas Palace significant discounts on weekdays. restaurant, and superb city views.
UBATUBA: Picinguaba $$
Pousada
Rua G 130, Vila Picinguaba
Tel (11) 2495 1586
∑ picinguaba.com
In an exceptional coastal setting,
this charming pousada is an oasis
of understated style and comfort
and within easy reach of Paraty.
Bahia
COSTA DA SAUIPE: Costa do
Sauipe Golf & Spa $$
Resort
Rodovia BA 099, Km 76, s/n
The upstairs lounge area with views of the city at the Grand Hyatt, São Paulo City Tel (71) 2104 7020
∑ costadosauipe.com.br
MORUMBI & BROOKLIN: Accommodations range from
Hilton Morumbi $$ DK Choice luxury to simple pousadas at this
Business ILHABELA: DPNY Beach massive resort with several
Av das Nações Unidas 12901 Hotel $$ properties set on a beach close
Tel (11) 2845 0000 Boutique to a rainforest and dunes.
∑ hiltonmorumbi.com.br Av José Pacheco do
Handy for the business district Nascimento 7668 ILHEUS: Transamérica Ilha de
of Brooklyn and Morumbi, this Tel (12) 3894 3000 Comandatuba $$$
large Hilton is in demand for ∑ dpnybeach.com.br Resort
conferences and events. Rooms One of Brazil’s trendiest and Estrada P/Canavieiras, Km 77, Una
have mountain or sea views. most fashionable beach hotels, Tel (73) 3686 1122
DPNY is popular with some of ∑ transamerica.com.br
MORUMBI & BROOKLIN: São Paulo’s most demanding Since opening in 1989, this place,
Grand Hyatt $$$ jet-setters looking to relax in located one hour from Ilheus on
Luxury style. It has three charming Ilha de Comandatuba, has been
Av das Nações Unidas 13301 restaurants, a huge outdoor regarded as one of Brazil’s best
Tel (11) 2838 1234 pool in a great beach setting, and most consistent resort
∑ saopaulo.grand.hyatt.com.br and a popular spa. Day properties. It is great for families.
Top of the line and elegant, the passports are offered for those There is an excellent golf course.
Grand Hyatt Hotel has stylish and not staying at the hotel or for
spacious rooms. Great facilities those arriving by boat. ITACARÉ: Itacaré Eco Resort $$$
include a highly rated spa and a Resort
gourmet center. Rodovia Ilhéus, Km 65, Condomínio
ILHABELA: Maison Joly $$ Vila São José
Pousada Tel (73) 3251 3133
Rua Antônio Lisboa Alves 278 ∑ ier.com.br
São Paulo State Tel (12) 3896 2364 This eco resort is located in an
∑ maisonjoly.com.br old coffee plantation. You can
GUARUJÁ: Casa Grande Hotel Situated close to the historic stay in the main hotel or chalets
Resort & Spa $$$ center of the island’s main town, in the rainforest. Lovely beach.
Resort this charming pousada offers
Av Miguel Stefano 1100 amazing ocean views from ITACARÉ: Txai $$$
Tel (13) 3389 4000 public areas and rooms. Boutique
∑ casagrandehotel.com.br BA-001, Itacaré
This comfortable, colonial-style MARESIAS: Maresias Beach $$ Tel (73) 2101 5000
resort set in large grounds and Pousada ∑ txairesorts.com.br
situated directly on one of the Rua Francisco Loup 1109 One of Brazil’s most fashionable
beaches closest to São Paulo has Tel (12) 3891 7500 and in-demand boutique hotels
five restaurants and four bars. ∑ maresiasbeachhotel.com.br offers bungalow accommodations
Wonderful for children. The great beach location, pool, with understated luxury in a
and grounds make up for the wonderful setting. There is a
GUARUJÁ: Sofitel Jequitimar average standard of the rooms at good spa and restaurant.
Guarujá $$$ this pousada. Good for families.
Resort LENÇOIS: Canto das Aguas $$
Av Marjori da Silva Prado 1100 SANTOS: Mendes Plaza $ Pousada
Tel (13) 2104 2000 Business Av Senhor dos Passos 01
∑ accorhotels.com Av Floriano Peixoto 42 Tel (75) 3334 1154
In a lovely spot, this exceptional Tel (13) 3208 6400 ∑ lencois.com.br
Sofitel is also a well-regarded spa, ∑ mendeshoteis.com.br The best hotel in Lençois from
resort, and convention center. The This friendly, comfortable hotel is which to explore the town and
hotel’s outstanding restaurant conveniently located for the national park offers lovely
serves up amazing seafood while beach and some of the city’s grounds and views, as well as
offering views of the ocean. shopping malls. a superb restaurant.
MORRO DE SÃO PAULO: SALVADOR: Sheraton da TRANCOSO: Villas de

Vila dos Orixas $$ Bahia $$ Trancoso $$$
Boutique Business Pousada
Praia do Encanto s/n Av 7 de Setembro 1537 Trancoso
Tel (75) 3652 2055 Tel (71) 3021 6700 Tel (73) 3668 1151
∑ hotelviladosorixas.com ∑ sheratondabahia.com ∑ villasdetrancoso.com
This intimate haven on a quiet Located close to Castro Alves In a lovely setting, this luxury
beach is one of the most stylish square and theater, this property beachfront pousada is great for
options on Morro de São Paulo. It offers minimalist rooms with a romantic hideaway or for
has pretty rooms and bungalows. warm decor, two outdoor families. This is one of the best
pools, a spa, a poolside bar, places for a special Brazilian and
PRAIA DO FORTE: Iberostar and a good breakfast. Bahian experience.
Bahia & Praia do Forte $$$
Resort SALVADOR: Solar dos
Rodovia BA 099, Km 56, Praia do Deuses – Suites de Charme $$
Forte, 48280 000 Boutique Sergipe, Alagoas &
Tel (71) 3676 4300 Largo do Cruzeiro do São Francisco 12 Pernambuco
∑ iberostar.com.br Tel (71) 3322 1911
Two neighboring resort ∑ solardosdeuses.com.br Sergipe
properties have over 1,000 rooms In a 17th-century building, this
between them and the necessary enchanting hotel located in the ARACAJU: Radisson Aracaju $$
infrastructure to handle that historic heart of Salvador has just Business
number of guests. Great choice six individually themed suites Rua Dr. Bezerra De Menezes, Atalia 40
for families. Closed Jun 7–Jul 1. based on the Candomblé gods. Tel (79) 3711 3300
Closed in June. ∑ atlanticahotels.com.br
PRAIA DO FORTE: Tivoli This modern, comfortable
Ecoresort $$$ SALVADOR: Zank by Toque $$ Radisson hotel off Atalaia beach
Resort Boutique is close to the beachfront, bars,
Av do Farol Rua Almirante Barroso 161 and restaurants.
Tel (71) 3676 4000 Tel (71) 3083 4000
∑ tivolihotels.com ∑ zankhotel.com.br
In a pleasant setting, this family- This stylish and good-value Alagoas
friendly eco resort has spacious hotel is located out of the city MACEIÓ: Jatiúca $$
rooms – all with a balcony with center in Rio Vermelho, close Resort
sea views. There are aso some to Farol da Barra. All rooms Dr. Mario Nunes Vieira 220,
lovely restaurants. have sea views. Mangabeiras
Tel (82) 2122 2000
SALVADOR: F Design Hostel $ SALVADOR: Villa Bahia $$$ ∑ hoteljatiuca.com.br
Hostel Historical Well located in front of Jatiúca
Travessa Prudente de Moraes 65 Largo do Cruzeiro do São Francisco 16 Beach, this urban resort property
Tel (71) 3035 9700 Tel (71) 3322 4271 is good for families.
∑ fdesignsalvador.com.br ∑ lavillabahia.com
Facilities at this trendy hostel Set in the Pelourinho area in MACEIÓ: Radisson Maceió $$
include a small pool, restaurant, two magnificent colonial Business
and bar. It has private rooms mansions, the rooms here have Av Doutor Antônio Gouveia 925
and small dorms. been renovated but preserve Tel (82) 3202 4900
their original character. There are ∑ atlanticahotels.com.br
SALVADOR: Casa Amarelindo $$ two garden courtyards and a Good-sized rooms are offered at
Historical panoramic terrace. this hotel, close to the town’s best
Rua das Portas do Carmo 6 urban beach and other attractions.
Tel (71) 3266 8550 TRANCOSO: Etnia Pousada $$$
∑ casadoamarelindo.com Pousada
Attractive and popular pousada Trancoso
in a 19th-century house in the Tel (73) 3668 1137
historic Pelourinho area. There is ∑ etniabrasil.com.br
a pool, a restaurant, two bars, and This stylish and fashionable
a roof terrace with lovely views. pousada offers eight themed
rustic-chic bungalows tucked
away in the woodland greenery.
DK Choice Closed in June.
SALVADOR: Convento do
Carmo $$ TRANCOSO:
Historic Uxua Casa Hotel $$$
Rua do Carmo 1 Boutique
Tel (71) 3327 8400 Trancoso
∑ pestana.com Tel (73) 3668 2277
Set in a convent building dating ∑ uxua.com
from 1586 in the historic heart Located in a tropical garden off
of the city, this small hotel is the main square, this has become
elegant and refined and has one of the places to see and be
a lovely pool area and seen in Trancoso. The ten rustic-
courtyard. Good service. style houses include four Tasty breakfast options at Solar dos
fishermen’s cottages. Deuses – Suites de Charme, Salvador
Pernambuco RECIFE: Atlante Plaza $

Business
Av Boa Viagem 5426, Boa Viagem
DK Choice Tel (81) 3302 3333
FERNANDO DE NORONHA: ∑ atlanteplaza.com.br
Maravilha $$$ One of the most popular high-
Pousada rise beach hotels on Boa Viagem,
BR-363 s/n, Vila do Vai quem Sabe Atlante Plaza has comfortable,
Tel (81) 3325 5302 large rooms, a rooftop pool,
∑ pousadamaravilha.com.br and lovely views.
One of the more luxurious
pousadas on the island. The RECIFE: Courtyard Recife
rooms have spectacular sea Boa Viagem $
views, and there is a gorgeous Business
pool area and a spa. Choose Av Eng Domingos Ferreira 4661
between romantic bungalows Tel (81) 3256 7700
or more family-friendly rooms. ∑ marriott.com
Tours of the island, by land and With well-equipped rooms, this
sea, are organized, plus diving modern hotel near the beach
and fishing. Lovely restaurant. is part of the Marriott chain. It
has an outdoor pool.
A king-size bed in one of the bungalows at
FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Solar dos Ventos, Fernando de Noronha RECIFE: Beach Class Suites $$
Solar dos Ventos $$$ Business
Pousada OLINDA: Sete Colinas $$ Av Boa Viagem 1906, Boa Viagem
Rod BR-363, Vila Do Sueste Historical Tel (81) 2121 2626
Tel (81) 3619 1347 Rua São Francisco 307 ∑ beachclasssuites.com
∑ pousadasolardosventos.com.br Tel (81) 3493 7766 All rooms have sea views at this
This place has a stunning setting ∑ hotel7colinas.com.br excellent beachfront hotel,
and is a perfect base for explor- With more facilities and larger centrally located on Boa Viagem.
ing the island. Rooms are set in grounds than the pousadas, this Good amenities.
bungalows and have their own small hotel’s beautiful gardens
verandas with astonishing views. have tropical vegetation and a
Close to the beach. No pool. pool. The setting is simple and
tranquil. Good choice for families. Paraíba, Rio Grande
FERNANDO DE NORONHA:
Vale $$$ PORTO DE GALINHAS: do Norte & Ceará
Pousada Tabajuba $ Paraíba
Rua Pescador Sérgio Lino 18 Pousada
Tel (81) 3619 1293 Lot. Merepe II, Quadra I, Lotes 5/6 JOÃO PESSOA: Verdegreen $
∑ pousadadovale.com Tel (81) 3552 1651 Business
One of the nicest places to stay ∑ tabajuba.com Av João Maurício, Manaíra 255
on the island, this comfortable A gorgeous, beachfront pousada, Tel (83) 3044 0000
pousada is located in Jardim this charming and intimate place ∑ verdegreen.com.br
Elizabeth. It is just a short walk to is within walking distance of the There are not a great deal of
the sea, bars, and restaurants. village. It has an outdoor pool accommodation options in João
and a good restaurants. No Pessoa, but this beachfront hotel
OLINDA: Quatro Cantos $ children under 12 are allowed. will tick most boxes. It has clean,
Pousada modern rooms.
Rua Prudente de Moraes Carmo 441 PORTO DE GALINHAS:
Tel (81) 3429 0220 Armação $$
∑ pousada4cantos.com.br Resort Rio Grande do Norte
A popular and charming pousada Lot. Merepe II, Quadra G1, Lote 1A NATAL: Manary Praia Hotel $$
in the heart of Olinda, Quatro Tel (81) 2126 2160 Boutique
Cantos is set on the carnival ∑ hotelarmacao.com.br Rua Francisco Gurgel 9067
route in an old family home. This unpretentious, good-value Tel (84) 3204 2900
property is on one of the best ∑ manary.com.br
stretches of beach in Brazil. It A gorgeous and charming hotel
DK Choice offers simple, tasteful rooms and on Ponte Negra, Manary Praia
OLINDA: Amparo $$ a beachfront pool area. There is consistently delivers high
Pousada easy access to the village just a standards and comfort. It has
Rua do Amparo 199 little over 1 mile (2 km) away. a wonderful restaurant.
Tel (81) 3439 1749
∑ pousadadoamparo.com.br PORTO DE GALINHAS: NATAL: Serhs Natal Grand $$
The best known of the pousadas Nannai Beach $$$ Resort
located in the historic center of Resort Av Senador Dinarte Medeiros
Olinda. Charming and quirky, Praia de Muro Alto Mariz 6045
with a great colonial atmosphere, Tel (81) 3552 0101 Tel (84) 4005 2000
Amparo is a good base for visit- ∑ nannai.com.br ∑ serhsnatalgrandhotel.com
ing and exploring both Olinda At this stylishly decorated resort This large, sophisticated
and Recife. It also has a very property with Polynesian beachfront resort has good
good restaurant. influences the bungalows have restaurants, a lovely beach,
their own dip pools. Good spa. and sea views.
PRAIA DE PIPA: Sombra e FORTALEZA: Luzeiros $

Água Fresca $$ Boutique Piauí & Maranhão
Resort Av Beira Mar 2600
Rua Praia do Amor 1000 Tel (85) 4006 8585
Tel (84) 3246 2376 ∑ luzeirosfortaleza.com.br Piauí
∑ sombraeaguafresca.com.br On the Meireles beachfront, this BARREIRINHAS: Encantes do
This property is divided into a impressive hotel is close to many Nordeste $$
resort, hotel, and spa and is amenities and attractions. Most Pousada
165 yards (150 m) from Praia do rooms have verandas. Rua Boa Vista s/n
Amor. The decor has an Asian Tel (98) 3349 0288
vibe. Popular with couples. FORTALEZA: Gran Marquise $$ ∑ encantesdonordeste.com.br
Business This simple pousada located by
PRAIA DE PIPA: Toca da Av Beira Mar 3980, Meirelles a river a couple of miles from
Coruja $$ Tel (85) 4006 5000 Barreirinhas town is a good base
Pousada ∑ granmarquise.com.br from which to visit the Lençois
Av Baia dos Golfunhos This standard beachfront hotel park and dunes. It offers
Tel (84) 3246 2226 with good facilities is suitable for organized tours and activities.
∑ tocadacoruja.com.br both business and leisure trips.
In a wonderful garden setting Try to book an oceanfront room. TERESINA: Metropolitan $$
close to the centre of Pipa, this Business
place has a perfect mix of rustic JERICOACOARA: Recanto do Av Frei Serafim 1696
charm and understated luxury. Barão $ Tel (86) 3216 8000
There is a free transfer to the Pousada ∑ metropolitanhotel.com.br
beach, where the hotel has its Rua do Forró 433 Teresina does not have many
own excellent bar/restaurant. Tel (85) 9989 2469 hotels, but the centrally located
∑ recantodobarao.com Metropolitan has consistently
TIBAU DO SUL: Ponta do A typical example of the been the best on offer.
Madeiro $$ charming pousadas that make up
Pousada the bulk of the accommodation
Av Antônio Florêncio 2695 options at Jericoacoara. Maranhão
Tel (84) 3246 4220 SÃO LUIS: Luzeiros $
∑ pontadomadeiro.com.br Business
The ocean views are breathtaking DK Choice Rua João Pereira Damasceno 02
from this pousada’s clifftop JERICOACOARA: My Blue Tel (98) 3311 4949
location. Take the staircase (over Hotel $$ ∑ luzeirossaoluis.com.br
200 steps) down to the beach, Boutique In a lovely setting on the beach
where the hotel has its own beach Rua Ismael s/n front at Ponta do Farol, this
bar and facilities. Transfers to Pipa. Tel (88) 3669 2203 modern design hotel offers large,
∑ mybluehotel.net airy rooms all with sea views.
On the beachfront, with two
Ceará pool areas, My Blue Hotel has SÃO LUIS: Pestana São Luis $
CANOA QUEBRADA: Azul set the standard for other hotels Business
Marinho $ in Jericoacoara. The colorful Av Avicênia 1, Praia do Calhau
Pousada rooms and suites are stylish and Tel (98) 2106 0505
Rua Leandro Bezerra s/n sophisticated and have sea, ∑ pestana.com
Tel (88) 3421 7003 pool, or garden views. Some Well located for both business
∑ azul-marinho.com also have a terrace. There is a and leisure, this hotel is within
This charming clifftop pousada spa, a gym, a restaurant, and a walking distance of Calhau
is one of the town’s best, with wine bar directly on the beach Beach and a short cab ride to
great ocean and beach views. with panoramic views. the historic center. It has an
Closed in May. excellent pool area.
CANOA QUEBRADA: Long

Beach $
Boutique
Rua Quatro Ventos
Tel (88) 3421 7404
∑ longbeachcanoa.com
Gorgeous, unpretentious hotel
with rustic charm. The pool area
has sea views. It is a short walk to
the beach and 15 minutes to the
town center. Good for families.
FORTALEZA: Ibis Fortaleza $

Business
Rua Doutor Atualpa Barbosa
Lima 660
Tel (85) 3052 2450
∑ ibis.com
A short walk from the main beach
area of Iracema, this modern hotel
has a small pool and sun deck. The beautifully kept, tranquil gardens at Toca da Coruja, Praia de Pipa
MANAUS: Amazon Jungle

Amapá Palace $$$
Pará & Amapá MACAPÁ: Ekinox $ Rainforest Lodge
Pousada Tel (92) 3211 3955
Pará Rua Jovino Dinoá 1693 ∑ amazonjunglepalace.com.br
BELEM: Grand Mercure $$ Tel (96) 3223 0086 An unusual option, this modern
Business ∑ ekinoxpousada.yahoostore.com floating lodge is an easy, comfort-
Av Nazaré 375 This friendly, well-located little able, slightly sanitized way to be
Tel (91) 3202 2000 pousada is ideal if you want to introduced to the rainforest.
∑ grandmercure.com.br avoid staying in the mediocre There are panoramic river views
Consistently one of Belém’s hotels on offer in Macapá. from all the rooms.
best, this hotel is close to tourist
attractions, restaurants, bars, MACAPÁ: Ibis Macapá Hotel $ MANAUS: Anavilhanas $$$
and the financial district, Business Rainforest Lodge
making it great for both Rua Tiradentes Centro 303 Tel (92) 3622 8996
business and sightseeing. Tel (96) 2101 9050 ∑ anavilhanaslodge.com
∑ accorhotels.com This family-friendly lodge is one of
BELEM: Radisson Belem $$ Comfortable, modern, and well- the region’s best. There is a
Business located, this Ibis hotel is simple viewing platform to see across
Av Comandante Bras do Aguir 321 but does the job. the rainforest. Stay in beautiful
Tel (91) 3205 1399 wooden bungalows or chalets.
∑ atlanticahotels.com.br
This central Radisson property MANAUS: Dolphin Lodge $$$
delivers the standards expected Amazonas, Roraima, Rainforest Lodge
of the brand. It has comfortable
and functional rooms, great for
Acre & Rondõnia Tel (92) 3663 0392
∑ dolphinlodge.tur.br
business and leisure travelers. Amazonas This rustic lodge located 78 miles
(126 km) southeast of Manaus is
ILHA DE MARAJO: Fazenda MANAUS: Caesar Business $ popular with international tour
Sanjo $ Business operators. Transfer is by van and
Fazenda Av Darcy Vargas 654, Bairro do boats, which is an adventure in
Margens do Igarapé São Sebastião Chapada itself. Rooms are wooden
Tel (91) 3228 1385 Tel (92) 3306 4700 buildings with thatched roofs.
∑ sanjo.tur.br ∑ accorhotels.com
There are limited accommodation Run by Accor, this good-quality,
options on Ilha de Marajo, but attractive hotel is close to the DK Choice
this lodge is the best base for huge Amazonas Shopping MANAUS: Juma Lodge $$$
exploring, since it is located in the Center and convention center. Rainforest Lodge
heart of the island. It offers one-, Tel (92) 3232 2707
two-, and three-night stays. MANAUS: Holiday Inn Manaus $ ∑ jumalodge.com
Business A popular lodge for travelers
SANTAREM: Barrudada Av General Rodrigo Otávio 3775 looking to immerse and
Tropical Hotel $ Tel (92) 3182 0100 integrate themselves in the full
Business ∑ holidayinn.com Amazon experience. The lovely
Av Mendonça Furtado 4120 Although basic, this modern and rooms are on stilts. Tasty food is
Tel (93) 3222 2200 comfortable Holiday Inn hotel on offer in the restaurant, and
∑ barrudadatropicalhotel.com.br offers a good base from which to there are lots of organized
This is probably the best hotel in explore Manaus and the region. activities. It is three hours from
Santarem, and offers three Manaus by boat, or 30 minutes
different kinds of rooms with MANAUS: Amazon Ecopark $$ by hydroplane, but the transfer
modern decor, two outdoor Rainforest Lodge is part of the adventure.
pools, and a terrace bar. Tel (92) 9146 0594; (21) 3005 5536
∑ amazonecopark.com.br
The pleasant, comfortable MANAUS: Uakari Lodge $$$
Amazon Ecopark is in a lovely Rainforest Lodge
river setting and is one of the Tel (97) 3343 4160
closest to Manaus. ∑ uakarilodge.com.br
Set in pristine jungle
surroundings, this well-regarded
DK Choice floating lodge can host just
MANAUS: Tropical $$ 24 guests at any one time.
Historical/Resort Special packages are also offered.
Av Coronel Teixeira 1320, Praia da
Ponta Negra
Tel (92) 2123 5000 Roraima
∑ tropicalmanaus.com.br BOA VISTA: Aipana Plaza $
Almost an attraction in its own Business
right, this luxurious ecoresort in Praça Centro Cívico 974
a secluded riverside location Tel (95) 3212 0800
has been a popular choice for ∑ aipanaplaza.com.br
decades. The large, colonial-style If you need a place to stay in Boa
The comfort of Amazon Ecopark, perfectly resort is an excellent base from Vista, you cannot go far wrong
located for Manaus which to head into the Amazon. with the Aipana Plaza, in a good
Mato Grosso & Mato

Grosso do Sul
Mato Grosso
DK Choice
ALTA FLORESTA: Cristalino
Jungle Lodge $$$
Rainforest Lodge
Av Teles Pires 2001
Tel (66) 3521 1396
∑ cristalinolodge.com.br
This highly regarded establish-
ment is considered one of the
Cristalino Jungle Lodge, one of the best ecolodges in the world, Alta Floresta world’s best ecolodges. Located
within a private forest reserve, it
downtown central location with good-value spacious, has 16 stylish and comfortable
cozy rooms and all the necessary comfortable rooms, a pool, guest quarters offering every
facilities and perks. and a large outdoor area. convenience. There’s a floating
deck, a restaurant with views,
BRASÍLIA: Meliá Brasíl 21 $$ and two 165-ft (50-m)
Acre Business observation towers to look over
RIO BRANCO (ACRE): Holiday Setor Hoteleiro Sul, Quadra 6 the canopy of trees. It offers a
inn Express Rio Branco $ Bloco D full program of activities.
Business Tel (61) 3218 4700
Rua Rio Grande do Sul 332 ∑ solmelia.com
Tel (68) 3302 2300 This towering hotel, located in CUIABÁ: Deville Cuíabá $$
∑ hiexpress.com the heart of the city, is close to Business
This centrally located Holiday the TV Tower and National Av Isaac Póvoas 1000
Inn Express has a rooftop pool Stadium. It offers a “Women Tel (63) 3319 3000
and fitness center. Traveling Alone” program. ∑ deville.com.br
Rooms and suites are elegant Situated in the city center, this
and have ample facilities. modern hotel is close to bars,
Rondõnia restaurants, and nightlife. It is a
PORTO VELHO: Oscar Hotel good base for heading in and
Executive $ DK Choice out of the Pantanal.
Business BRASÍLIA: Royal Tulip
Av 7 de Setembo, 934 Brasília $$ CUIABÁ: Gran Odara Hotel $$
Tel (69) 2182 0600 Business Business
∑ oscarhotelexecutive.com.br Setor Hoteleiro Norte, Trecho 01, Av Miguel Sutil 8344, Ribeirão da Ponte
This hotel is located in the city Conjunto 1B, Bloco C Tel (65) 3616 2014
center and is close to restaurants Tel (61) 3424 7000 ∑ en.hotelgranodara.com.br/hotel
and bars. There’s a small rooftop ∑ royaltulipbrasiliaalvorada.com This comfortable, well-run hotel
pool and bar with city views. In a city full of fairly nondescript is ideal when having to stay
hotels, the stylish Royal Tulip is overnight in Cuiabá before or after
more of a resort property than transfers to and from the Pantanal.
just a business hotel. Situated
Brasília, Goiás & on the edge of Lake Paranoá POCONÉ: Araras Lodge $$$
Tocantins close to the residence of the
Brazilian president, the hotel’s
Rainforest Lodge
Est Parque Transpantaneira Zona
Brasília front rooms have lake views Rural
and there is an excellent large Tel (65) 3682 2800
BRASÍLIA: Kubitschek Plaza $ pool area. The city center is a ∑ araraslodge.com.br
Business ten-minute taxi ride. This ecolodge is particularly
HN Quadra 2, Bloco E, popular with birders but offers
Asa Norte a full range of Pantanal activities
Tel (61) 3319 3543 for which it is well sited
∑ kubitschek.com.br Goiás and equipped.
Reliable, centrally situated hotel CHAPADA DOS VEADEIROS:
that is popular for events and Casa Rosa $
small conferences. Pousada Mato Grosso do Sul
Rua Gumercindo Barbosa 233 BONITO: Zagaia Eco-Resort $$
BRASÍLIA: Quality Hotel $ Tel (62) 3446 1319 Resort
Business ∑ pousadacasarosa.com.br Rod Bonito–Três Morros, Km 0
SMAS Trecho 3, Conjunto 2, With a pleasant garden and Tel (0800) 979 4400
Bloco A pool, this simple pousada is ∑ zagaia.com.br
Tel (61) 2196 6090 close to the entrance to the Close to Bontio, this family-
∑ atlanticahotels.com.br national park and is ideal for friendly ecolodge is a good
This popular, modern, low-rise those who appreciate nature. base from which to explore the
hotel is situated about 15 minutes’ Accommodation is in the main surrounding area and the crystal-
drive from the city center. It offers house and a number of chalets. clear waters.
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Quinta
Santa Catarina & das Videiras
Boutique
$$$
Paraná Rua Afonso Luiz Borba 113
Santa Catarina Tel (48) 3232 3005
∑ quintadasvideiras.com
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Blue Tree This elegant 19th-century
Towers Florianópolis $$ Portuguese style residence is
Business very exclusive, with only 11 suites.
Rua Bocaiuva 2304 Period furnishings are combined
Tel (48) 3251 5555 with modern amenities. It is close
∑ bluetree.com.br to Lagoa’s bars and restaurants.
Better for business than leisure,
as it is away from the island’s
main beaches, this modern, Paraná
centrally situated hotel is close CURITIBA: Four Points by
to restaurants, bars, and a Sheraton $$
shopping center. Business
Av Sete de Setembro 4211
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Quinta do Tel (41) 3340 4000
The lush greenery of the grounds at Bucanero $$ ∑ starwoodhotels.com
Meia Lua, which also has a pool for guests Resort Good standard Four Point hotel
Estrada Geral do Rosa s/n that is located in the Batel
CAMPO GRANDE: Grand Tel (48) 3355 6056 residential area, close to
Park Hotel $$ ∑ bucanero.com.br restaurants, bars, malls, and the
Business An oasis of calm at the end of historic center. There is a floor
Av Afonso Pena 5282 a dirt track, this charming, exclusively for women.
Tel (67) 3044 4444 romantic pousada, located
∑ grandparkhotel.com.br about 53 miles (85 km) south CURITIBA: Mercure Curitiba
The modern, centrally located of Florianópolis, is in a glorious Golden $$
Grand Park Hotel is close to bars setting overlooking Praia do Business
and restaurants and in front of Rosa. No children under 14. Rua Desembargador Motta 2044
the city’s main shopping center. Tel (41) 3322 7666
It is a good choice if staying FLORIANÓPOLIS: Vila ∑ mercure.com
overnight before or after a visit Tamarindo $$ This well-located hotel in the Batel
to a Pantanal lodge. Business area offers all the facilities you
Av Campeche 1836 expect from the Mercure group.
CAMPO GRANDE: Jandaia $$ Tel (48) 3237 3464
Business ∑ tamarindo.com.br CURITIBA: Slaviero Conceptual
Rua Barão do Rio Branco 1271 This popular pousada on Praia do Full Jazz Hotel $$
Tel (67) 3316 7700 Campeche is a 10-minute stroll Business
∑ jandaia.com.br from the activities at Riozinho. It Rua Silveira Peixoto 1297
Slightly dated, this is still a good has lovely grounds. Tel (41) 3312 7000
hotel option for overnight stays ∑ slavierohoteis.com.br
before or after visiting the FLORIANÓPOLIS: Costão do With jazz as its theme, this
Pantanal. It is also conveniently Santinho Resort Golf & Spa $$$ Slaviero property makes a
located for the airport. Resort welcome change from the town’s
Rodovia Vereador Onildo Lemos 2505 more standard business hotels.
MIRANDA: Meia Lua $ Tel (48) 3261 1000, 0800 645 0928 Large rooms with city views. Live
Rainforest Lodge ∑ costao.com.br jazz twice a week in the bar.
BR 262, Km 547, Zona Rural Rooms vary at this large resort;
Tel (67) 9686 9064 some are more modern than FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Che Lagarto $
∑ pantanalranchmeialua.com others. There is a golf course. Hostel
This ranch set in lovely grounds Av Juscelino Kubitschek 874
a few miles outside of Miranda Tel (45) 3027 8300
makes a simple, unfussy base DK Choice ∑ chelagarto.com
from which to explore parts of FLORIANÓPOLIS: Ponta Centrally located in Foz and close
the Pantanal. It offers organized dos Ganchos $$$ to public transport, this popular
activities such as fishing and Resort hostel offers dorms or private
horseback riding. Rua Eupídeo Alves do rooms. It has a nice roof terrace
Nascimento 104 with a pool, a Jacuzzi, a bar, and
MIRANDA: Refúgio Ecológico Tel (48) 3262 5000 beautiful sunset views.
Caiman $$$ ∑ pontadosganchos.com.br
Rainforest Lodge This stylish, romantic boutique FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Nadai
Estância Caiman s/n, Zona Rural resort is one of the best in Brazil, Confort Hotel & Spa $
Tel (67) 3242 1450 and truly world-class. In a Business
∑ caiman.com.br stunning beachfront setting on Av República Argentina 1332
One of the best-equipped a private peninsula north of Tel (45) 3521 5050
Pantanal lodges, in the heart of the Florianópolis, it has breathtaking ∑ nadaiconforthotel.com.br
region, this comprises two com- views. Stay in deluxe bungalows. Centrally located and very well
fortable pousadas and private villas No children under 18. Book well appointed, Nadai offers modern
and is still a working farm. Rates in advance. accomodations in a pleasant and
include guided tours and transfers. comfortable ambience.
FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Bourbon BENTO GONÇALVES: Pousada PORTO ALEGRE: Solar 63 $

Resort $$ Casa Valduga $$ Hostel
Resort Pousada Rua Octávio Corrêa 63
Rodovia das Cataratas, Km 2 Via Trento 2355, Linha Leopoldina, Tel (51) 3092 0063
Tel (45) 3521 3900 Vale dos Vinhedos ∑ solar63hostel.com.br
∑ bourbon.com.br Tel (54) 2105 3154 Close to the historic center, bars,
This large, self-contained resort ∑ villavalduga.com.br and restaurants, this clean,
is frequented by both Brazilian Five charming, modern pousadas friendly hostel has five small
and foreign visitors. It is located are offered at the Villa Valduga dorms and one double room.
between the town and the falls winery, close to Bento Gonçalves.
and is good for families. Breakfast and a wine course and PORTO ALEGRE: Laghetto
tasting are included. No children Viverone Moinhos $$
under eight. Business
DK Choice Rua Doutor Vale 579
FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Hotel das CANELA: Cravo & Canela $$ Tel (51) 2102 7272
Cataratas Belmond $$$ Pousada ∑ laghettohoteis.com.br
Historical / Resort Rua Ten Manoel Correa 144 The reception area here is in a
Iguaçu National Park Tel (54) 3282 1120 restored historic building at the
Tel (45) 2102 7000, (21) 2545 8878 ∑ pousadacravoecanela.com.br front of the modern hotel. The
∑ belmond.com/ Ideal for exploring Canela, this hotel is centrally located and
hoteldascataratas delightful little pousada has close to restaurants and bars.
This grand hotel is the place to lovely rooms and grounds. It is
stay when visiting the falls, as it close to the town center in a PORTO ALEGRE: Sheraton
is the only property located in quiet residential road. Porto Alegre $$
the park itself. Standards are Business
everything you would expect GRAMADO: Saint Andrews $$$ Rua Olavo Barreto Viana 18
from Belmond: lovely rooms, Boutique Tel (51) 2121 6000
pool area, and so on. The park Rua das Flores 171 ∑ sheraton-poa.com.br
closes at night, so early in the Tel (54) 3295 7700 This smart hotel is in a central
morning and during the night, ∑ saintandrews.com.br location, next to the elegant
guests have the Brazilian side of This elegant, well-kept intimate Moinhos Shopping Mall. It has
the falls to themselves, which is hotel has lovely mountain views. spacious rooms and offers
worth paying a bit more for. The restaurant is excellent and everything you would expect
the service impeccable. of a Sheraton.
MORRETES: Santuário GRAMADO: St Hubertus $$$ SÃO MIGUEL DAS MISSÕES:

Nhundiaquara $$ Boutique Pousada das Missões $
Lodge Rua da Carrieri 974 Pousada
Est das Prainhas, Km 02, Tel (54) 3286 1273 Rua São Nicolau 601
Porto de Cima ∑ sthubertus.com Tel (55) 3381 1202
Tel (41) 9972 5543, (41) 3462 1938 Set in lovely grounds 1 mile ∑ pousadadasmissoes.com.br
∑ nhundiaquara.com.br (2 km) from the city center, this With private rooms and dorms,
This is a good base when welcoming, romantic hotel this simple, well-located property
exploring Morretes and the Serra overlooks Lago Negro. It is a near the Jesuit ruins is a good
do Mar and provides rustic charm good base for exploring Gramado choice when visiting the missions.
at a reasonable price. and the surrounding countryside. It has lovely grounds and a pool.
PARANAGUÁ: San Rafael $$

Business
Rua Julia da Costa 185
Tel (41) 3721 9000
∑ sanrafaelhotel.com.br
There is not a lot of choice if you
need to stay in Paranaguá, but
San Rafael is well located and
comfortable, if unremarkable.
Rio Grande do Sul

BENTO GONÇALVES: Don
Giovanni $$
Pousada
Linha Amadeu 28, Km 12
Tel (54) 3455 6293
∑ dongiovanni.com.br
This 20th-century Italian-style
farmhouse surrounded by the
Don Giovanni vineyards is 8 miles
(12 km) outside of Bento
Gonçalves. It combines rustic
charm with contemporary style. A choice of pools at the popular, large Bourbon Resort, Foz do Iguaçu
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

As a melting pot of races and influences, possibly a feijoada (meat and bean stew).
Brazil has a rich diversity of regional culinary Everywhere in Brazil it is easy to get well-
styles (see pp182–3 and pp384–5). cooked, filling meals. For light snacks, there
Although the term “haute cuisine” does are umpteen lanchonetes, or corner snack
not strictly apply to Brazilian fare, the art of bars. For lunch, a botequim, or simple gastro
eating well, or arte do comer bem, is known pub, can be fun, while dining at a formal
to all Brazilians. A light breakfast, a hearty rodízio all-you-can-eat barbecue is a must.
lunch that can last from noon to 3pm, and Famous for offering the widest varieties of
a late afternoon snack are followed by an cuisine, São Paulo is seen as the best place
even later dinner that may go on beyond for an authentic culinary experience. A wide
midnight. Saturday and Sunday lunches variety of places to eat are listed on pages
are an elaborate, extended family affair, 386–97. Prices are quoted in US dollars.
Restaurants & Bars specific to a region. Breakfast can Paying & Tipping
In Brazil, restaurants and bars come be a meal in itself, and in most The majority of restaurants take
in every shape and size. From the cases it will be a hearty spread of credit cards. By far the most
corner botecos (pubs) and beach fruits, cold meats, cheeses, widely accepted credit cards are
bars to elegant world-class restau- breads, and pastries. Often this is MasterCard and Visa. Amex and
rants, Brazil has it all. Even dining included in your hotel room rate. Diners Club cards are also useful.
in top-notch restaurants, especially However, it is recommended to
away from Rio de Janeiro and São check first, especially at the more
Paulo, offers value for money in Dress Code expensive restaurants, where
comparison to anywhere in The easygoing Brazilian nature you might not have the cash to
Europe or North America. is also reflected in the dress cover the bill. If you do get stuck
Most Brazilian restaurants have code. In corner bars, one can in a “no credit card” situation, do
a website, so check the photos to walk in wearing casual attire. In remember that you can probably
get a clearer idea of whether or Rio and other coastal areas, it is get cash out of the local ATM
not a place is to your taste. not unusual to see women in machine on your credit card.
bikinis at beach bars. Dress codes, Technically, restaurants are not
usually more relaxed and tropical meant to add a service charge to
Local Eating Habits in the north, tend to become the bill; however, in many
Visitors will recognize that many more formal in the south. places, it will be expected as a
Brazilian eating habits have been A collar and tie for men may tip for the staff. If the service
influenced by European countries. be the norm only in restaurants charge has not been added, the
Eating is a leisurely affair. Those in the business quarter of cities, waiter will normally let you
who want to snatch a quick bite or in Brasília, where the politicians know. It is ideal to leave 10 to 12
will not be disappointed. Several and civil servants prefer formal percent or, if the service charge
restaurants are open all through dressing. It’s also worth carrying has been included, simply round
the day, so the lunch hour is an extra layer of clothing when up the bill to the next suitable
spread over many hours. dining at more upscale number. Given the average
Brazilians generally eat dinner restaurants as they tend to be wage of the staff, tips, however
late, many of them preferring to cold due to air-conditioning. small, are always welcome.
start at 10pm or later. At the week-
end, numerous restaurants in the
bigger cities take orders well after
midnight. It is not unusual to see
Brazilians retreating to the bar if
they have to wait for a table. Most
restaurants take reservations, and
this is often necessary at the more
fashionable venues, especially
those in the larger cities.
Due to the many different
culinary styles, it is virtually
impossible to say what a typical
Brazilian meal will be, although
rice and beans will probably
make an appearance at some
point. Many of the dishes are Outdoor tables at Aprazível, a fine-dining restaurant in Santa Teresa (see p388)
W H E R E TO E AT & D R I N K  383
Food Hygiene Recommended

As most of Brazil is hot and Restaurants
tropical, every Brazilian knows The restaurants featured on
the importance of keeping food the following pages have been
fresh and well refrigerated. carefully selected to give a
Food poisoning, even among cross- section of options in every
visitors, is rare. region: you will find everything
The majority of restaurants from the equivalent of Michelin-
use ice cubes made from filtered starred fine dining and traditional
water. However, in small back- restaurants, to contemporary
street bars, it is best to avoid ice. Brazilian, international cuisine,
and bistro fare. The entries are
divided into geographical areas
Alcohol & Drinks corresponding to the chapters
On the whole, Brazilians are in this guide; the entries are
not great alcohol drinkers. Beer, Drinks kiosk on the beach in Morro de then organized by town.
however, is extremely popular. São Paulo The fine-dining options
The majority of Brazilian beer is a include some of the best
refreshingly cold light lager that a suitable chair, they will almost restaurants in Brazil, often in
comes in bottles (cerveja) or on certainly try to improvise atmospheric and scenic
tap (chopp). Also common, and something. It is not uncommon locations. Given the size of the
much stronger, is a wide variety for young children to be eating country, Brazilian cuisine varies
of drinks containing cachaça, a out late with their parents. dramatically from region to
sugarcane-based spirit. The most region. For example, a typical
notable and well known of these Bahian dish will be very different
is the caipirinha with fresh lime. Vegetarians from that served in the rest of
Though Scotch is regarded as Vegetarian options are limited in the Northeast or in the south.
a status symbol, wine is rapidly Brazil. However, there are a few The barbecue house is probably
growing in popularity, but it is still specialized restaurants offering the only constant. The
expensive, particularly imported vegetarian dishes, ranging from international options serve
wine from beyond South America. basic to highly innovative. Por mostly global favorites, while
Brazil already produces some quilo restaurants (see below) can bistros generally offer a range
excellent table wines, as do be a good option, since they of cuisine alongside Brazilian
neighboring Argentina and Chile. offer large salads and a range of fare. All will reflect Brazilian
Brazilians also like soft drinks, vegetable-based dishes. influences and ingredients.
especially guaraná, which is as The DK Choice entries
omnipresent as Coca-Cola. Most highlight exceptional establish-
bars and restaurants will have Churrascaria Rodízio/ ments that offer more than just
bottled water com (with) and sem Por Quilo excellent food. Most of these are
(without) gas. Casas de sucos There are two styles of eating out popular with local residents and
(fresh-juice bars), offering juices in Brazil that can take visitors by visitors, so be sure to inquire
made from a huge range of surprise. The first is the churra regarding reservations in
Brazil’s native exotic fruits, are very scaria rodízio, or large barbecue advance, or you may face a
popular. Some of these also serve houses, found throughout the lengthy wait for a table.
light snacks. country. Here, one fixed price
covers the starter and main
course. Go to a churrascaria
Smoking rodízio when you are really hungry,
There are strict regulations about as they will keep bringing you
smoking in Brazil. Visitors should succulent pieces of grilled meat.
be aware that smoking inside Many offer a “traffic-light system”
enclosed public spaces, including where each diner will have a card.
bars and restaurants, is absolutely Leave the green side up if you
forbidden. It is also not permitted want more food; red, if not.
in the outside areas of restaurants The por quilo type are self-
that are partially covered. service restaurants with a buffet
of varying degrees of sophisti-
cation, common in larger towns
Children and cities. What you pay for at
Brazil is a child-friendly country the check-out, as far as the food
and most restaurants will is concerned, will be based on
welcome children. Staff will exactly what your plate weighs –
normally go out of their way to hence the name por quilo, or Por kilo self-service buffet at the Mangai
entertain them. If they don’t have “by-the-kilo.” restaurant (see p392)
The Flavors of Brazil

Brazil offers a vast range of regional cuisines. Climate and
geography influence ingredients, from the exotic tropical
fruits and spices in Northern Brazil to Bahian seafood (see
p183) and the heavy meat dishes of the southern states.
Cultural heritage plays a part as well. In Amazônia, the diet is
based on fruits and fish native to the forest and the rivers,
with many dishes adapted from indigenous recipes. Farther
south, settlement by Portuguese and, later, Italian and German
immigrants put a distinctly European stamp on the cooking. Brazilian Coffee
Brazil’s superb beef is at a sirloin), picanha (sirloin), alcatra

churrascaria rodízio (barbecue (top sirloin), and maminha
house). Waiters bring large (sirloin tip). Cupim is the soft
skewers of freshly barbecued floppy hump on a cow’s
beef and other meats, and slice shoulders. This tender beef,
off cuts directly onto the plate. mixed heavily with fat, is an
You can state your preference acquired taste and may not
for mal passado (rare), ao ponto necessarily be liked by all.
(medium), or bem passado
(well done), or you can just
point to the part that looks Fish & Seafood
good. Cuts include filet mignon Brazilians inherited a love of
(tenderloin), fraldinha (bottom fish from their Portuguese
Freshly caught Bonito tuna on sale at a
coastal fish market Papaya Limes Coconuts
Mangoes
Meat Pineapple Bananas
Brazil is a nation that truly

enjoys its meat and the wide
variety of ways in which beef,
chicken, and pork are prepared.
The ability to devour large
quantities of succulent
Brazilian beef is considered a
mark of manliness. The family
barbecue (churrasco) is a
Sunday tradition, but for
visitors the best way to enjoy Part of Brazil’s lush harvest of ripe tropical fruits
Brazilian Dishes & Specialties

Now considered Brazil’s national dish, feijoada was not always
the chic cuisine it is today. The rich black-bean stew traces
its humble origins to the kitchens of the country’s
slave quarters. To make a meal with the leftovers
from their masters’ tables, the slaves improvised
by combining the cast-off bits of meat into a
hearty stew with black beans, flavored with
garlic, onion, and bay leaves. Nowadays, a
full feijoada completa spread is typically
eaten for lunch on Saturdays, and in some
places, such as São Paulo, on Wednesdays.
In addition to the black beans, the stew
Black beans contains several kinds of meat, including
sausage, bacon, and sun-dried beef. Side Salgados, such as deep-fried
dishes include rice, roasted cassava flour (farofa), sautéed kale, pastries stuffed with cheese
and slices of orange. A batida de limão (cachaça with ice or meat, are popular
shavings and lime) is served before the feijoada. Brazilian snacks.
of Southern Brazil, one finds

small, tart jaboticaba, and
red acerola berries, often
mixed in juices with other
fruits. Farther north are vast
orchards of cashew (caju) – not
the nut, but the large fruit that
grows above. In the Amazon,
there are taperaba, cupuaçu,
and the queen of Amazon
berries, açaí
açaí. These are often
puréed with guaraná berry
powder or syrup and can be
mixed with banana for a high-
Table laid out with all the elements that make up a feijoada completa nutrition smoothie.
forebears. Cod, a Portuguese and the Amazon rainforest. WHAT TO DRINK

staple, is sold dried and heavily The Pantanal’s prize fish is
salted in grocery stores, the dourado, a fish with firm Brazil’s best-known drink is
almost certainly the caipirinha,
while cod balls (bolinhos de flesh that is delicious when
made with lime, sugar, ice, and
bacalhau) or cod fillets are grilled. Other popular and
cachaça (sugar-cane liquor).
found on many menus. For tasty fish include the pacú
A better choice for quenching
fresher fare, Brazil’s long and pintado. In the Amazon, thirst, however, are the wide
coastline offers a bounty of the astounding variety of variety of tropical fruit juices.
excellent fish and seafood. freshwater fish includes the Brazil’s most popular soft drink
The colder waters off Santa tambaqui, aruanã, and is the domestically produced
Catarina offer the country’s tucanaré. They guaraná. This fizzy drink is
best oysters. Ilhabela, off São are often served prepared with wild guaraná
Paulo’s Costa Verde, is grilled, or in soups berries from Amazônia. Also
known for its cold- with local herbs. enormously popular is chopp, or
water jumbo shrimp Another Amazon draft lager, served ice-cold after a
(camarão). Farther freshwater favorite hot day on the beach. Chá mate,
north are mollusks, is caldo de piranha herbal tea, is usually consumed
squid, octopus, crab, (piranha broth). hot in Southern Brazil, but in the
lobster, shrimp, and, rest of Brazil, it is served cold as
of course, fish. iced tea. Although Brazil is very
Some of Brazil’s Brazilian Fruits much a cold beverage country,
best fish come Along with tropical the exception is the ubiquitous
cafézinho, strong filter coffee,
not from the staples, there are
served in small cups. Most
ocean but from regional fruits, most of
Brazilians drink it very sweet and
the fresh waters The celebrated Brazilian which have no English
at almost any time of the day.
of the Pantanal caipirinha name. In Rio and parts
Camarão na Moranga is a Picanha steak is a sirloin Pudim de Leite, a traditional

stew of large, juicy prawns steak and usually comes Portuguese dessert, is made
cooked in coconut milk and served with only a dusting of from eggs, condensed milk,
served in a pumpkin. coarse salt. and caramelized sugar.
Where to Eat & Drink

CENTRO: Cais do Oriente $$ Price Guide
Rio de Janerio City Brazilian Map 5 E3 Prices are based on a twocourse meal
and nonalcoholic drinks for one person,
Rua Visconde de Itaboraí, 8 Centro
plus service charges.
BARRA DA TIJUCA: Fratelli $$ Tel (21) 2203 0178/ 2253 7855
Italian Set in a warehouse dating from $ up to US$25
Av Sernambetiba 2916 1878, this attractive and eclectic $$ US$25 to US$55
$$$ over US$55
Tel (21) 2494 6644 restaurant is popular for lunch
This popular eatery close to Barra and dinner with those working
beachfront opened in 1988 and downtown or visiting historic Palace, makes it even more
serves rustic, traditional Italian, sights. The menu focuses on special. Not surprisingly, it is
including pizza. Good wine list. contemporary Brazilian dishes. popular with visiting celebrities.
BARRA DA TIJUCA: Gero $$ CENTRO: Confeitaria FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO:

Italian Colombo $$ Esterla do Sul $$
Av Érico Veríssimo, 190 International Map 5 D3 Brazilian
Tel (21) 2484 9455 Closed Mon Rua Goncalves Dias, 32 Rua General Severiano 97
Part of the exclusive Fasano Tel (21) 2505 1500 Closed Sun Tel (21) 2275 6280
chain, Gero serves sophisticated A tourist attraction in its own This chain, also present in other
cuisine in a fashionable setting. A right, this place has changed little neighborhoods, brings the
less expensive executive menu is since opening in 1894. It is a coffee traditional barbecue from the
offered at lunch on Fridays. shop, tearoom, and restaurant. gauchos of Rio Grande do Sul
Many famous people have visited, all the way to Rio. It also offers a
BARRA DA TIJUCA: Ráscal $$ including King Albert of Belgium buffet of salads and warm dishes.
Mediterranean and Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II.
Av. Ayrton Senna 2150 FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO:
Tel (21) 3325 0894 COPACABANA & LEME: Fogo de Chão $$
Italian chef Nadia Pizzo offers Cervantes $ Brazilian
a wide variety of delicious Botequim Map 3 F1 Av Repórter Nestor Moreira, s/n
Mediterranean dishes as a buffet Av Prado Junior 335 Tel (21) 2542 1545
or à la carte at this restaurant Tel (21) 2275 6147 Closed Mon One of Brazil’s bestknown rodízio
inside the Casa Shopping mall. A mix of small bar, botequim, allyoucaneat barbecue houses
and restaurant. Famous for sand serving tender, tasty meats. Beef
wiches, latenight snacks, and is the specialty, but chicken, pork,
DK Choice “one for the road” as night turns and lamb are also available. Enjoy
CENTRO: Nova Capela $ to day. Always buzzing and fun. views over Sugar Loaf Mountain
Brazilian Map 5 D5 and Guanabara Bay as you eat.
Av Mem de Sá, 96 COPACABANA & LEME:
Tel (21) 2252 6228 Don Camillo $$ FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO:
Much loved in Rio’s bohemian Italian Map 3 D3 Irajá $$
nightlife scene, this authentic Av Atlântica, 3056 Brazilian
and unpretentious institution Tel (21) 2549 9958 Rua Conde de Irajá 109
dates back to 1903 and serves Most of Copacabana’s beachfront Tel (21) 2246 1395
consistently good food until 3am bars are not up to much when it This restaurant has helped build
or later. The signature dish is comes to food. Don Camillo is one Botafogo’s growing reputation as
roast goat with broccoli rice, but of the exceptions, serving excellent a hub for interesting, inventive,
other highlights include Brazilian Italian cuisine. Choose to sit either
cod balls. Expect large portions. on the outside terrace or inside
Superb chopp on tap. in a more formal dining area.
COPACABANA & LEME:

CENTRO: Ancoramar $$ La Fabrique $$
Seafood Map 5 E3 French Map 3 F1
Praça Marechal Âncora, 184 Av. Atlåntica 994
Tel (21) 2240 8378 Closed dinner Tel (21) 2541 2416
Opened in1933, this traditional Run by French and Tunisian
seafood restaurant is set in the chefs, this bistro offers traditional
last surviving tower of the old French cuisine with Brazilian
Municipal Market, close to Praça coastal influences in a relaxed
XV. Ask for a window seat, and atmosphere. Try the fried
enjoy views over Guanabara Bay. mussels, a customers’ favorite.
CENTRO: Atrium del Rey $$ COPACABANA & LEME:

International Map 5 E3 Cipriani $$$
Praça XV de Novembro, 48 Italian Map 3 E2
Tel (21) 2220 0193 Av Atlântica, 1702
Pleasant café in what was a Tel (21) 2548 7070 Closed Sun dinner
palace for the Imperial family This is an outstanding restaurant
from 1808. This is a good choice offering top northern Italian
if looking for a place for lunch cuisine. The setting, overlooking Cais do Oriente, set in a 19th-century
during a tour of downtown. the pool of the Copacabana building, Centro
and contemporary dishes in fun

surroundings. Special tasting
menu of eight courses.
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO:

Majoríca $$
Steakhouse
Rua Senador Vergueiro, 15
Tel (21) 2205 6820
At this traditional and reliable
barbecue house, you order from
an extensive menu. It is a favorite
with residents and visitors alike for
some of the best meat in town.
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO:

Miam Miam $$
French/Brazilian
Rua General Goes Monteiro, 34
Tel (21) 2244 0125 Closed Sun
Contemporary and creative Modern meets rustic at the innovative Lasai, Botafogo
comfort food and a relaxed retro
vibe have made Miam Miam a IPANEMA & LEBLON: surprisingly limited choice in Rio.
popular option. Try the oxtail in Le Vin Bistro $$ It made a name for itself after
crispy-crust pastry, or shrimp French Map 2 A4 Madonna dropped in, quickly
with spaghetti, peach palm, and Rua Barão da Torre, 490 followed by Diana Ross and
garlic couscous. If you can’t Tel (21) 3502 1002 other celebrities.
decide, go for the tasting menu. Comfortable and relaxing French
bistro in the heart of Ipanema. LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO:
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO: Instantly recognizable dishes, such Bar Lagoa $
Lasai $$$ as duck confit with sauteéd potatoes. German/Botequim Map 2 A4
Spanish/Brazilian Av Epitacio Pessoa, 1674
Rua Conde de Irajá 191 IPANEMA & LEBLON: Tel (21) 2523 1135 Closed lunch
Tel (21) 3449 1834 Closed Sun & Mon Antiquarius $$$ Mon–Fri
Chef Rafa Costa e Silva has worked Portuguese Map 1 A5 Art Deco bar overlooking the
at Spain’s two-Michelin-starred Rua Aristides Espínola 19 Lagoa that serves a menu of
Mugaritz. On offer are two daily- Tel (21) 2294 1049 snacks and main meals with a
changing contemporary set menus An elegant, old-school institu- German touch. Great draft beer.
of innovative and inventive dishes. tion serving quality Portuguese Built in 1934 as Bar Berlin, this
fare, international favorites, and has become a Rio institution.
IPANEMA & LEBLON: a highly regarded feijoada. For
Capricciosa $$ four decades, this has been one LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO:
Pizzeria Map 2 B5 of Rio’s better restaurants. Lagoon $$
Rua Vinícius de Moraes, 134 International Map 1 B3
Tel (21) 2523 3394 IPANEMA & LEBLON: Av Borges Medeiros 1424
This popular and family-friendly Esplanada Grill $$$ Tel (21) 2529 5300
pizzeria is considered by many Steakhouse Map 1 C4 Lagoon is an entertainment
to offer the best pizza in Rio, but Rua Barão da Torre, 600 complex, so it has several
it isn’t the cheapest. Tel (21) 2512 2970 restaurants, including Giuseppe
Cozy steakhouse in the middle of Grill Mar, Gula Gula, Quadrifoglio,
IPANEMA & LEBLON: Ipanema that delivers consistently Pax Delícia, and Sushi Lagoa.
Casa da Feijoada $$ high standards. There are more
Brazilian Map 2 B5 than 30 cuts of meat to choose from.
Rua Prudente de Moraes 10 DK Choice
Tel (21) 2247 2776 IPANEMA & LEBLON: LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO:
Feijoada is one of Brazil and Rio’s Fasano al Mare $$$ Olympe $$$
most traditional dishes, but is Italian Map 2 B5 French Map 2 A2
often only to be found on a Av Vieira Souto 80 Rua Custódio Serrão 62
Saturday. Casa das Feijoada solves Tel (21) 3202 4030 Tel (21) 2539 4542 Closed Sun
this problem by serving this and Italian, Mediterranean, and seafood dinner, Sat & Mon lunch
other Brazilian dishes every day. are on offer at this elegant flagship Claude Troisgros, Rio’s most
restaurant of the Fasano chain. famous and respected chef,
IPANEMA & LEBLON: Designed by Philippe Starck, this has perfected the art of
Sawasdee $$ hotel is also home to Baretto-Londra, combining Brazilian ingredients
Asian Map 1 A4 one of Rio’s top bars. Book ahead. such as baroa potato and açaí
Rua Dias Ferreira 571 with the best he can bring from
Tel (21) 2511 0057 IPANEMA & LEBLON: France. Small, elegant Olympe
This Leblon branch is the flagship Satyricon $$$ is the flagship of the Troisgros
of a well-dressed group that Seafood Map 2 B4 empire, and Claude is now
consistently serves some of the Rua Barão Da Torre, 192 joined by his brother Thomas, a
city’s best and most interesting Tel (21) 2521 0627 partnership that has garnered
Asian cuisine, with a focus on Smart, elegant, reliable seafood the restaurant several awards.
Thai. The curries are excellent. restaurant, of which there is a
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 382–3
LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO: restaurant just off the main

Roberta Sudbrack $$$ square. There is often live music.
Brazilian
Av Lineu de Paula Machado, 916 PETRÓPOLIS: Imperatriz
Tel (21) 3874 0139 Closed Sun & Leopoldina – Solar do
Mon Império $$
Close to the Botanical Gardens, Portuguese
Roberta Sudbrack offers modern Av Koeller, 376
Brazilian dishes with a twist. Tel (24) 2103 3000
There is a “gastronomic discount” Elegant setting within Petrópolis’s
every Tuesday. centrally located hotel, which is
situated within two grand 19th-
LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO: century houses. It is well known
Rubaiyat $$$ for its tea served on Friday and
Steakhouse Map 1 A2 Saturday at 5pm.
Rua Jardim Botânico 971
Tel (21) 3204 9999 Closed Sun PETRÓPOLIS: Lago Sul $$
dinner Steakhouse
In 2014, Rio finally got a branch Rua República da Argentina 259
of São Paulo’s upmarket Tel (24) 2237 1947
steakhouse. The views of Christ The rustic and charming Aprazível in This offers the best value for a
the Redeemer and the Jockey Santa Teresa diverse barbecue rodízio
í in town,
ízio
Club are a bonus. Ask for a table and includes Japanese food.
on the balcony. BÚZIOS: Cigalon $$$
French
Av José Bento Ribeiro Dantas 199 Espírito Santo
DK Choice Tel (22) 2623 1249 VITÓRIA: Lareira Portuguesa $$
SANTA TERESA: Aprazível$$$ One of the prettiest restaurants Portuguese
Brazilian in Búzios with views across the Av Saturnino de Brito, 260
Rua Aprazível 62 bay, Cigalon is located in the Tel (27) 3345 0331
Tel (21) 2508 9174 Closed Sun house where Brigitte Bardot This attractive, modern restaurant
dinner, Mon stayed in 1964. French-inspired is famous for its bacalhau (cod)
This is one of those places to dishes and seafood take pride and moquecas (fish stews).
which locals take visitors for of place.
long lunches. Hidden in Santa
Teresa, and with superb views, BÚZIOS: Satyricon $$$
it offers tropical dining and Seafood Minas Gerais
interesting dishes in a rustic, Av José Bento Ribeiro Dantas 500
yet classy setting. Try the grilled Tel (22) 2623 2691
salt-water fish with orange Satyricon is considered one of DK Choice
sauce, coconut rice, cashew Rio’s best seafood restaurants, BELO HORIZONTE:
nuts, and baked plantain. and the produce is as fresh as Glouton $$
can be. Consistently good. Brazilian
Rua Bárbara Heliodora, 59
PARATY: Banana da Terra $$ Tel (31) 3292 4237 Closed Mon
Seafood Innovative, high-quality,
Rio de Janeiro State Rua Doutor Samuel Costa, 198 contemporary Brazilian and
& Espírito Santo Tel (24) 3371 1725 Closed Tue; international fare is part of
lunch Mon, Wed, Thu an ever-changing menu at this
Rio de Janeiro State Located in the historic center in simple yet elegant restaurant
a 17th-century house, this with a small garden.
BÚZIOS: Estância Don Juan $$ charming, innovative seafood
Steakhouse restaurant is under the command
Rua das Pedras, 178 of chef Ana Bueno. BELO HORIZONTE:
Tel (22) 2623 2169 Closed Tue & Hermengarda $$
Wed in low season PARATY: Bartholomeu $$ Brazilian
Seafood rules in Búzios, but if French Rua Outono, 314
you want a good Argentinian Rua Doutor Samuel Costa, 176 Tel (31) 3225 3268 Closed Mon,
steak in relaxed surroundings, Tel (24) 3371 5032 Tue–Fri lunch, Sun dinner
head for Don Juan. Delightful contemporary French Come here for excellent contem-
restaurant that captures the porary dishes with a strong
historic spirit of Paraty in its infusion of Minas Gerais recipes,
DK Choice setting. It also offers the more in a house that pays homage to
BÚZIOS: Parvati $$ informal garden setting of Bartô the chef’s grandmother.
Italian in the city square.
Rua das Pedras 144 BELO HORIZONTE: Trindade $$
Tel (22) 2623 1375 PARATY: Punto Divino $$ Regional
The decor at this trattoria is Italian Rua Alvarenga Peixoto 388
Venice meets Búzios – an Rua Marechal Deodoro, 129 Tel (31) 2512 4479 Closed Mon,
attraction in its own right. Try Tel (24) 3371 1348 Tue–Thu lunch, Sun dinner
the seafood risotto or one of Seafood and pizza – and even a Delicious, fresh Mineiro cooking
several homemade fresh pastas. seafood pizza – take pride of place is given a contemporary and
on the menu in this romantic little creative touch in this modern
and comfortable restaurant. OURO PRETO: Chafariz $$

Choose to sit either on the Regional São Paulo City
veranda or in the main room. Rua São José 167
Tel (31) 3551 2828 Closed dinner, CENTRO: La Casserole $$
BELO HORIZONTE: Mon French Map 1 B2
Vecchio Sogno $$ Very popular for its large, well- Largo do Arouche, 346
Italian priced buffet of Mineiro dishes – Tel (11) 3331 6283 Closed Sun
Rua Martim de Carvalho, 75 a great way to try many of the dinner, Mon
Tel (31) 3292 5251 Closed Sat lunch local specialties at one sitting. This intimate, traditional French
& Sun dinner restaurant opened in 1954. The
Classic Italian dining with local TIRADENTES: Estalagem do vibe is business at lunch and
touches that keep the menu Sabor $ romantic in the evening.
fresh, besides offering a daily set Regional
menu with traditional desserts. Rua Ministro Gabriel Passos 280A CENTRO: Famiglia Mancini $$
For over 20 years, this central Tel (32) 3355 1144 Closed dinner Italian Map 1 B3
restaurant has been considered One of the oldest and most Rua Avanhandava, 81
one of Belo Horizonte’s best and respected restaurants in Tel (11) 3256 4320
most consistent. Tiradentes serves typical Mineiro In a city with many fine Italian
cuisine from the freshest local restaurants, this traditional
OURO PRETO: O Passo ingredients. Small and homely. cantina serving superb food is
Pizza Jazz $ a favorite with the locals.
Italian TIRADENTES: Angatu $$
Rua São José 56 Brazilian CENTRO: Terraço Itália $$
Tel (31) 3552 5089 Rua da Cadeia 38 Italian Map 1 B2
Known for its international-style Tel (32) 999 035 734 Closed Mon & Av Ipiranga, 344
pizza and live jazz, O Passo also Tue; Wed–Sun lunch Tel (11) 2189 2929
offers a fuller menu of a This restaurant’s name means The main draw atTerraço Itália is
surprisingly high standard. Try to “well-being” in tupi-guarani, and the stunning views over the city
get a table on the terrace, with those who taste its creative center from the 42nd floor.
views over the historic town. cuisine tend to agree. Romantic,
cozy as well as sophisticated. HIGIENÓPOLIS: Ici Bistro $$
OURO PRETO: Senhora do French
Rosário $ TIRADENTES: Tragaluz $$ Rua Pará, 36
Regional Regional Tel (11) 3259 6896
Rua Getúlio Vargas 270 Rua Direita, 52 The steak is a highlight at this
Tel (31) 3551 4200 Tel (32) 99968 4837 Closed Tue cozy and romantic French bistro,
In an elegant setting in one Wonderful romantic setting which is highly regarded. There’s
of Ouro Preto’s most charming in a small colonial town house. a good wine list, too.
and well-structured pousadas, The menu features dishes
here you will find a menu that have a modern take on JARDINS & AV PAULISTA:
of local favorites and Mineiro cuisine, as well as Amadeus $$
international dishes. international favorites. Seafood Map 4 E2
Rua Haddock Lobo, 807
OURO PRETO: Bené da Flauta $$ TIRADENTES: Uaithai $$ Tel (11) 3061 2859
Regional Asian/Regional This elegant, traditional family
Rua São Francisco de Assis, 32 Rua Direita 205A restaurant serves high-quality
Tel (31) 3551 1036 Tel (32) 999 279 903 Closed Wed; modern and traditional seafood
Located close to the church of Sun dinner dishes. It’s considered the place
São Francisco, this place serves Blending Thai aromas with Minas to go for seafood in São Paulo.
traditional Mineiro fare and Gerais’ traditional ingredients,
international classics in a this exotic bistro also caters to JARDINS & AV PAULISTA:
beautiful colonial house. The vegetarians with authentic Rodeio $$
upper floor has the best views. southeast Asian fare. Steakhouse Map 4 D3
Rua Haddock Lobo, 1498
Tel (11) 3474 1333
One of the city’s oldest and most
charming barbecue houses
opened in 1958 and helped make
the Jardins fashionable. It is within
walking distance of some of the
city’s most exclusive boutiques.
JARDINS & AV PAULISTA:

Tordesilhas $$
Brazilian Map 4 D2
Alameda Tietê, 489
Tel (11) 3107 7444 Closed Mon;
lunch Tue–Fri;
Fri; dinner Sat & Sun
The finest traditional dishes
from all over Brazil are offered
here. A good English-language
menu helps visitors on this
Airy and spacious dining room at the Bené da Flauta, Ouro Preto voyage of discovery.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 382– 3
PINHEIROS: Arturito $$
DK Choice Mediterraneanl DK Choice
JARDINS & AV PAULISTA: Rua Artur de Azevedo 542 VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:
D.O.M. $$$ Tel (11) 3063 4951 Rascal $$
Brazilian Map 4 D3 The food here is creative and Buffet
Rua Barão de Capanema 549 tasty; the setting, modern and Av Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek
Tel (11) 3088 0761 Closed Sat charming. Chef Paola Carosella Tel (11) 3152 6111
lunch, Sun hails from Argentina and is a judge The flagship branch of Rascal
Alex Atala is globally recognized on Brazilian TV’s MasterChef.
MasterChef has built a reputation for its high-
as one of the world’s most quality, competitively priced all-
creative chefs. His flagship PINHEIROS: Mani $$$ you-can-eat buffet, to which
restaurant regularly features in Brazilian Map 3 B3 other dishes may be added from
the list of the world’s top ten. A Rua Joaquim Antunes, 210 the à la carte menu.
meal at D.O.M. is not something Tel (11) 3085 4148 Closed Mon
you are going to forget, but Mani is regularly on the list of
that also means making a the world’s best restaurants,
reservation at least a month and Helena Rizzo is its award- DK Choice
in advance. This may be one winning chef. It is stylish and VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:
of the highlights of your visit modern, yet homely – all of Fogo de Chão $$$
to São Paulo. which is reflected in the menu. Barbecue (Churrascaria)
Av dos Bandeirantes, 538
PINHEIROS: Vecchio Torino $$$ Tel (11) 5505 0791
JARDINS & AV PAULISTA: Italian When it comes to upmarket
Fasano $$$ Rua Tavares Cabral, 119 rodízio all-you-can-eat
Italian Map 4 D3 Tel (11) 3816 0592 Closed Sun barbecue houses that really
Rua Vittorio Fasano, 88 dinner, Mon deliver, then Fogo de Chão is
Tel (11) 3062 4000 Closed Sun, Hidden away in a fairly often found at the top of the
lunch daily nondescript house in a side road, list. It may appear pricey at first
Sophisticated, classy Italian with this place offers sophisticated, glance, but the variety and
prices to match, but always with traditional Italian cuisine. The quality of the food on offer
fine cuisine at its heart. This is gnocchi is highly rated, and there is worth the cost.
the highly regarded eponymous is an impressive wine list.
flagship of the Fasano group.
VILA MADALENA: Canto VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:
JARDINS & AV PAULISTA: Madalena $$ Kinoshita $$$
Figueira Rubaiyat $$$ Brazilian Asian
Steakhouse Map 4 D3 Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque 471 Rua Jacques Félix, 405
Rua Haddock Lobo, 1738 Tel (11) 3813 6814 Closed Mon; Tel (11) 3849 6940 Closed Sun
Tel (11) 3087 1399 dinner Sat & Sun Highly regarded authentic
Diners come here for some of the Traditional dishes, especially from Japanese cuisine with a twist
best beef in town in an informal, Minas Gerais and Bahia, are of fusion and Kappo cuisine. It is
chic setting. Fish and vegetarian prepared to a high standard in all delivered in a stylish, elegant,
dishes are also available. this charming, fresh, and and tasteful atmosphere. In a city
welcoming restaurant. well renowned for its good Asian
LIBERDADE: Sushi Yassu $$ options, this is one of the best.
Asian Map 1 C4 VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:
Rua Tomas Gonzaga 98 Attimo $$ VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:
Tel (11) 3209 6622 Closed Mon Italian Skye $$$
São Paulo has one of the Rua Diogo Jácome, 341 International Map 4 E5
largest Japanese communities Tel (11) 5054 9999 Closed Mon, Av Brigadeiro Luís Antônio, 4700
in the world, and they consider dinner Sun Tel (11) 3055 4702
this the best traditional Modern, stylish, and cool, this This is the rooftop restaurant and
Japanese restaurant in town. restaurant has a creative and bar that São Paulo’s most stylish
Located in the heart of the interesting menu with classic and fashionable boutique hotel
Japanese quarter. Italian influences. deserves, with jaw-dropping
views across São Paulo. It is the
place to see and be seen, and the
contemporary international
menu does not disappoint.
São Paulo State

GUARUJÁ: Farol di Mare $
Italian
Av Miguel Stéfano, 4659
Tel (13) 3351 5559 Closed Wed
Opened in 1972, this popular
beachfront eatery offers Italian-
and Mediterranean-inspired dishes.
Good selection of fresh seafood.
The modern interior of Mani in Pinheiros Lovely views over the sea.
For key to price guide see page 386
SALVADOR: Al Carmo $$
Bahia Italian
Rua do Carmo, 42
ITACARE: Boca de Forno $$ Tel (71) 3242 0283 Closed Sun
Pizzeria Its location just off the
Rua Lodonio Almeida 108 Pelourinho (old city center)
Tel (73) 3251 3121 makes Al Carmo a good choice
The eclectic and cool decor here, when sightseeing. It serves
including chandeliers and colorful simple, classic Italian dishes in a
artworks, help this hip eatery beautifully restored colonial
stand out from the crowd. building. The back terrace has
views over the bay of Todos os
LENÇOIS: Cozinha Aberta $ Santos and the lower city.
International
Av Rui Barbosa, 42, Centro SALVADOR: Fogo de Chão $$
Tel (75) 3334 1321 Barbecue (Churrascaria)
Just off the main square, this Praça Colombo, 4, Rio Vermelho
Elegant, relaxed dining area at A Casa charming restaurant serves a Tel (71) 3555 9292
Vidal, Salvador varied international menu of “slow If you are looking for a change
food.” This covers everything from from seafood and Bahian cuisine,
GUARUJÁ: Casa Grande $$ Hungarian goulash to Thai curry. try this branch of São Paulo’s
International excellent upmarket allyoucan
Av Miguel Stéfano, 1100 LENÇOIS: Os Artistas eat barbecue chain housed in
Tel (13) 3389 4000 da Massa $ a large building that was
Casa Grande is a sprawling Italian formerly a theater. Meat lovers
colonial resort on the beachfront Rua da Baderna, 49 will not be disappointed.
with five restaurants and four Tel (75) 3334 1886 Closed Oct
bars of varying levels of sophisti and Nov SALVADOR: Quattro Amici $$
cation. Good choice if visiting for This is a simple Italianowned Pizzeria
the day or touring in the area. restaurant that serves excellent Rua Dom Marcos Teixeira, 35
wellpriced pasta, as well as other Tel (71) 3264 5999
ILHABELA: Viana $$ Italian dishes. Hidden away in a historic house
Seafood down a side street, this popular
Av Leonardo Reale 2301 MORRO DE SÃO PAULO: and charming eatery serves
Tel (12) 3896 1089 Pimenta Rosa $$ delicious pizzas.
Fresh and tasty seafood drive the Seafood
menu here. Sit either in the main Quarta Praia – Morro de São Paulo SALVADOR: Soho $$
restaurant overlooking the beach Tel (75) 3652 1506 Asian
or on the deck and tables on the Located right on the fourth beach, Av Lafayete Coutinho (Av Contorno)
sand. Dip in and out of the sea this beach bar and restaurant 1010, Bahia Marina
between courses. has a good infrastructure, great Tel (71) 3322 4554
views, and friendly staff. Try the Part of a popular and fashionable
Caipfruta, a version of a caipirinha. chain of upmarket Japanese
DK Choice restaurants, this stunning flagship
SÃO SEBASTIÃO: Manacá $$ SALVADOR: Solar Café $ branch in the marina offers
International International glorious views over the bay of
Rua Manacá, 102 Rua da Graça, 284 Todos os Santos. The menu
Tel (12) 3865 2546 Closed Mon– Tel (71) 3328 3444 Closed Mon includes a wide variety of sushi,
Wed (in low season) This small, unpretentious café/ sashimi, and grilled dishes.
Tucked off the road and restaurant is located in the Palacete
surrounded by luscious das Artes, which also houses a SALVADOR: Yemanjá $$
vegetation, this is one of cultural center and a museum Brazilian
those places you have to of modern art. Guests can also Av Otávio Mangabeira, 4661
make the effort to visit, but enjoy great views over the bay of Tel (71) 3461 9010
it offers a special experience. Todos os Santos from the terrace. Sited on the coast, and with
It started out in 1988 to beach views, this is the place
supply breakfast to surfers to come for an introduction to
but is now known for its DK Choice and immersion into the
ambience and excellent SALVADOR: A Casa Vidal $$ local Bahian cuisine and
fresh fish and seafood. Spanish customs – something of a
Rua Afonso Celso, 294 gastronomic institution.
Tel (71) 3565 8008 Closed lunch,
UBATUBA: Solar das Sun TRANSCOSO: O Cacau $$$
Águas Cantantes $$ This small, contemporary Spanish Brazilian
Seafood restaurant, with a large infusion Praça São João Batista, 96
Estrada do Saco da Ribeira 951 of Bahian and other Brazilian Tel (73) 3668 1266 Closed Mon
Tel (12) 3842 0178/0288 influences, has established The entrance to this attractive
Seafood and traditional itself high on the list of the restaurant is off the main square,
moquecas (fish stews) are best places to eat in Salvador. with a candlelit path leading up
served in this pousada’s Don’t miss the variety of tapas to the wide deck. It serves
restaurant, which sits on one to start, and then try the delicious Bahian cuisine with
of the prettiest beaches in mixed seafood platter. an Oriental twist. Some dishes
Ubatuba. Familyfriendly. are made with cacao.
TRANSCOSO: Capim Santo $$$

Seafood
Rua do Beco, 55
Tel (73) 3668 1122 Closed Sun
There is a wonderful ambience
here in the colorful grounds of
the pousada of the same name.
Creative modern Brazilian menu.
Sergipe, Alagoas &

Pernambuco
Sergipe
ARACAJU: Cariri $$
Brazilian
Av Santos Dumont
Tel (79) 3243 1379 Atmospheric dining area at the Capim Santo, Transcosco, Bahia
This lively restaurant serves
large portions of meat and of fresh seafood and other dishes.
seafood regional dishes. The It’s not the easiest place to find DK Choice
show house offers forró and but is worth the effort. PORTO DE GALINHAS:
other entertainment. Beijupirá $$
OLINDA: Don Francesco $ Seafood
ARACAJU: Muratto $$ Italian Rua Beijupirá s/n, Praia dos
Mediterranean Rua Prudente de Morais, 358 Carneiros
Rua Doutor Bezerra de Menezes, 102 Tel (81) 3429 3852 Closed Mon Tel (81) 3552 2354
Tel (79) 3255 2376 Closed Mon Tucked away in the cobbled Inventive contemporary
Choose between contemporary streets of Olinda, this simple Brazilian dishes are served with
Mediterranean-inspired dishes trattoria serves up tasty, a variety of tropical sauces
and Japanese sushi at this unpretentious Italian cooking. at this colorful and atmospheric
elegant venue. There is spot. The restaurant is almost
occasional live music. as famous as the town itself –
DK Choice a must-visit.
OLINDA: Oficina do Sabor $$
Alagoas Brazilian
MACEIO: Wanchako $ Rua do Amparo, 335 RECIFE: Chica Pitanga $
Peruvian Tel (81) 3429 3331 Closed Mon Buffet
Rua São Francisco de Assis, 93 This “workshop of flavors” is Rua Petrolina, 19
Tel (82) 3377 6024 Closed Sun the best known of Olinda’s Tel (81) 3465 2224
This is one of Maceio’s most restaurants and perfectly A pleasant “by the kilo” restaurant
popular eateries, serving Peruvian captures the spirit and offering a good-quality buffet at
recipes with Brazilian ingredients. atmosphere of the area. It reasonable prices, where you
offers a creative menu of local only pay for what you take. It is
MACEIO: Sur $$ Pernambucan and Brazilian popular with locals and visitors,
Regional dishes, many featuring fresh and well located for hotels on
Rua Paulina Maria Mendonça 759 fish and seafood. Boa Viagem.
Tel (82) 9678 1687 Closed lunch, Sun
This critically acclaimed restaurant RECIFE: Leite $$
serves exquisite contemporary PORTO DE GALINHAS: Portuguese
dishes with an Alagoan influence. Domingos $ Praça Joaquim Nabuco, 147
Brazilian/French Tel (81) 3224 7977 Closed Sat
Rua Beijupirá 116, Galeria Paraoby A piece of history, Leite has been
Pernambuco Tel (81) 3552 1464 operating since 1882 and is still
FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Along with Beijupira, this going strong, one of the oldest
Cacimba Bistro $ charming and romantic restaurants in Brazil. The menu
International restaurant is the best in town. features regional and Portuguese
Praça Pres Eurico Dutra 9, Vila dos A varied menu of French and influences served in an elegant,
Remedios Brazilian influences offers colonial setting.
Tel (81) 3619 1200 something for every taste.
Romantic bistro that is beautifully RECIFE: Ponte Nova $$
lit at night. Choose between the PORTO DE GALINHAS: French
pretty veranda or the cozy indoors. Peixe na Telha $ Rua do Cupim, 172
Seafood Tel (81) 3327 7226 Closed Mon
FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Av Beira Mar, 40-B The decor and menu here are
Ecologikus $$ Tel (81) 3552 1323 inspired by French Art Nouveau,
Seafood Informal beachfront restaurant but with a distinctively contem-
Estrada Velha do Sueste that works in tandem with its porary Brazilian feel to both. The
Tel (81) 3619 1807 Closed Sun neighbor, the Encontro dos Mares restaurant is as charming by
This simple, cozy family-run bistro, serving northeastern candlelight as it is by the natural
restaurant offers a nice selection specialties with fresh seafood. light of day for Sunday lunch.
NATAL: Manary Gastronomia

Paraíba, Rio Grande & Arte $$
DK Choice
Seafood
do Norte & Ceará Rua Francisco Gurgel, 9067 FORTALEZA: Coco Bambu $$
Tel (84) 3204 2900 Seafood
Paraíba In Natal’s best boutique hotel, Av Beira Mar, 3698
JOÃO PESSOA: Mangai $ this is a glorious setting for Tel (85) 3198 6000
Brazilian lunch and dinner, with sea Founded in Fortaleza in 2001,
Av General Édson Ramalho, 696 views and sounds. this is a reliable chain of
Tel (83) 3226 1615 modern, informal seafood
The very large buffet here – NATAL: Potiguarias Camarão $$ restaurants that won’t
there are more than 200 recipes – Seafood disappoint. This branch is one
offers a great introduction to Rua Pedro Fonseca Filho, 8887 of three in Fortaleza and is right
many northeastern specialties Tel (84) 3209 2425 on the seashore. The menu is
and delicacies. Look for branches If you like shrimp or prawns, you very varied and includes a
in Natal and Brasília, too. will be in heaven here, but there wide selection of salads and
are many other dishes on offer. traditional dishes served in
JOÃO PESSOA: Quintal Restô $$ One of Natal’s largest and most generous portions. Try the
Brazilian popular restaurants. fish fillet with banana and
Rua Eutiquiano Barreto, 863 white sauce, or with mango
Tel (83) 9179 3900 Closed Sun–Tue PRAIA DE PIPA: Pizzeria sauce and nuts.
Call to make a reservation, and Dall’Italiano $
wait to be charmed by the Italian
culinary skills on display in the Av Baia dos Golfinhos 731 FORTALEZA: Colher de Pau $$
place that serves the best food Tel (84) 9152 8651 Closed Mon & Brazilian
in the city. The menu changes Wed in low season Rua Ana Bilhar, 1178
almost daily. Nicely decorated, cozy, informal Tel (85) 3267 6680
pizzeria located just off the main All the color and flavor of
street. The menu also includes regional dishes of both the
Rio Grande do Norte seafood, pasta, and salads. coast and interior of Ceará can
GENIPABU: Bar 21 $$ be enjoyed at this lovely
Brazilian PRAIA DE PIPA: Camamo $$ outdoor restaurant.
Praia de Genipabu Brazilian
Tel (84) 3224 2484 Fazenda Pernambuquinho
The setting – on stilts above Tel (84) 98813 8511
the sea at the bottom of a sand Here you will be treated to a set Piauí & Maranhão
dune – is the main attraction of menu of six courses at a table on
this thatched-roofed bar/ the candlelit veranda of the Piauí
restaurant. Order the catch of the chef’s lovely house. Numbers are TERESINA: Coco Bambu $$
day and you can't go wrong. very limited each night, so make Seafood
Lunch only. a reservation for this exclusive Rua Professor Joca Vieira, 1227
dining experience. Tel 86 3232 8100
NATAL: Âncora Caipira $ This popular branch of the
Brazilian reliable Coco Bambu seafood
Av Campos Sales 474 Ceará chain is one of the best in town
Tel (84) 3202 9364 Closed Mon & CANOA QUEBRADA: and a favorite meeting point.
Carnaval L’Atelier do Brasil $ Outdoor and indoor seating.
This friendly venue is a firm International
favorite with the locals for its Rua Nascer do Sol, 360 TERESINA: Favorita Comida
authentic northeastern cuisine. Tel (88) 8817 9964 Closed Wed Tipica $$
It is also famed for its sun-dried Track down this cozy, romantic, Brazilian
meat (carne
carne do sol
sol). atmospheric restaurant, one block Rua Angélica, 1059
off the bustle of “Broadway,” and Tel (86) 3232 2020
sample its international favorites. Rustic yet comfortable, this spot
is generally thought to serve the
CANOA QUEBRADA: best regional fare in town. The
Pizza Nostra $ Favorito group has five more
Pizzeria restaurants in Teresina, including
Rua Dragão do Mar 2040 the pizzeria Favorito Forneira.
Tel (88) 9680 5863 Closed Mon
Grills, seafood, and vegetarian
options are also all on offer at this Maranhão
pizzeria in the center of the village. LENCOIS MARANHENSES:
Luzía $
FORTALEZA: L’O $ Seafood
Brazilian Canto do Atins
Av Pessoa Anta 217 Tel (98) 9 8709 7661
Tel (85) 3265 2288 The only restaurant and pousada
A mixture of Art Deco and more within the Parque dos Lençóis
modern touches has resulted in Maranhenses, on the edge of
one of the city’s most sophisticated the sand dunes, Luzía serves
Tasty prawn and shrimp dish at Potiguarias and striking dining spots with a delicious specialties of prawn,
Camarão, Natal lovely garden bar. fresh fish, and goat.
SÃO LUIS: Antigamente $ MANAUS: Bufalo Churrascaria $$

Brazilian Barbecue
Rua da Estrela, 220 DK Choice Rua Pará 490
Tel (98) 9 8876 7151 BELEM: Remanso Tel (92) 9219 7243
In the historic center, this pretty do Bosque $$ Considered the best restaurant
restaurant with a large patio is Regional in town for meat, this is a popular
good for snacks and a beer, as Av Rômulo Maiorana, 2350 rodízio all-you-can-eat barbecue
well as full meals. Tel (91) 3347 2829 Closed Mon house. It also serves sushi and
Innovative and creative use has an American bar.
of local Amazonian ingredients
DK Choice makes this the most interesting MANAUS: Himawari $$
SÃO LUIS: Cabana do Sol $ choice for foodies who want Asian
Brazilian a gourmet experience – Rua 10 de Julho, 618
Rua João Rereiro Damasceno 24, Amazonian chic, if you like. Tel (92) 3233 4229 Closed Mon
Km 5, Ponta do Farol It has the same owners as The best and most traditional
Tel (98) 3304 4235 the less sophisticated Remanso Japanese restaurant in Manaus is
Sun-dried beef (carne
carne de sol
sol), de Peixe, considered Belém’s conveniently located right next
goat, chicken, and other local best restaurant for seafood. to the famous Opera House.
dishes are the specialties at Great sushi and sashimi are
this popular, well-regarded served here.
restaurant with locally inspired
decor and a bar area. Amapá
MACAPA: Estaleiro $ Roraima
Seafood BOA VISTA: Tropical Peixada $
SÃO LUIS: Senac $ Av 1 Maio Seafood
Buffet Tel (96) 3222 8375 Rua Ajuricaba, 1525
Rua de Nazaré, 242 The nautically themed Estaleiro is Tel (95) 3224 6040 Closed Wed &
Tel (98) 3198 1100 considered one of the best and 3rd Sun of month
Part of the national hotel and most reliable restaurants in Macapa. This street-corner restaurant
catering school, this exceptional with an airy outdoor seating
all-you-can-eat buffet provides a area is popular for lunch and
good introduction to local and has a family-friendly kids’ room.
other Brazilian dishes. Amazonas, Roraima, The menu favors seafood
Acre & Rondõnia and Amazon fish.
Amazonas Acre
Pará & Amapá
MANAUS: Canto da Peixada $ RIO BRANCO: Point do Pato $
Pará Seafood Regional
BELEM: Lá em Casa $ Av Ayrão, 1677 Praca Jose Bisteni
Brazilian Tel (92) 3234 3021 Tel (68) 9972 8112 Closed Sun
Estação daws Docas – Av Boulevard One of Manaus’ best-known fish Trendy and popular with locals –
Castilho França, Galpão 2 restaurants, this is the ideal place young and old alike – this spot
Tel (91) 3212 5588 to try many of the local Amazon specializes in regional dishes
Serving regional Amazonian river fish that you will not find such as alligator steaks, as well as
dishes, Lá em Casa is located inside anywhere else in the world. international favorites, including
the dock area in the beautiful pasta and pizza. Live music.
mall, offering views over the river. MANAUS: Fiorentina $
There is an open-air terrace, too. Italian
Rua José Paranaguá, 44 Rondõnia
Tel (92) 3215 2233 PORTO VELHO: Caravela do
This pleasant, popular Italian Madeira $
restaurant in the center of Seafood
Manaus serves a range of pasta, Rua José Camacho, 104
sushi, and other standard dishes. Tel (69) 3221 6641 Closed Mon
Feijoada is offered on Saturdays. This rustic, cozy restaurant, with
views of the Madeira river and
rainforest, specializes in river fish,
DK Choice including grilled piranha. The
MANAUS: Banzeiro $$ shrimps and other seafood are
Brazilian great too.
Rua Libertador, 102
Tel (92) 3234 1621 PORTO VELHO: Miyoshi $
Credited with breathing new Asian
life into Amazonian cuisine, this Av Amazonas 1280, Nossa Senhora
restaurant is considered the das Graças
best option at which to try out Tel (69) 3224 4600
Amazonian dishes that use a Amazonian ingredients are
selection of exotic ingredients. If used to create a large menu of
you have come all the way to traditional Chinese and Japanese
Manaus and like to experiment, dishes at this modern and
Bright and lively dining area at don’t miss the experience. pleasant restaurant that is part
Antigamente, São Luis of a well-regarded chain.
veranda and pool area and

offers reliable home-style
cooking with attentive service.
Mato Grosso & Mato

Grosso do Sul
Mato Grosso
CUIABÁ: Getúlio $$
Regional
Av Presidente Getúlio Vargas, 1147
Tel (65) 3624 9992 Closed Mon
Good steaks and other grills,
including fish, are served here.
Although this is a high-end
restaurant, the atmosphere is
casual, and there's always a lively
buzz. A popular nightclub is
A typcially large portion at Casa do João, Bonito located above the restaurant.
CUIABÁ: Mahalo Cozinha

Brasília, Goiás & DK Choice Criativa $$
Tocantins BRASÍLIA: Taypá
Peruvian
$$$ Brazilianl
Rua Pres Castello Branco 359
Brasília Setor de Habitações Individuais Tel (65) 3028 7700 Closed Sun
Sul, Quadra 17, Bl 9, Shopping This smart, charming and
BRASÍLIA: Corrientes 348 $$ Fashion Park innovative restaurant is led by
Steakhouse Tel (61) 3248 0403 Paris-trained chef Ariani Malouf,
Setor de Clubes Esportivos Sul Trecho Highly regarded by critics and offering a contemporary
2, Lote40 considered one of the city’s very fusion of Brazilian and inter-
Tel (61) 3345 1348 Closed Mon best, this unpretentious Peruvian national cuisine. It is also open
This is a branch of the excellent restaurant has an innovative, Thursdays for afternoon tea from
Argentine steakhouse chain that ever-changing menu. As well as 4:30pm to 7pm.
has restaurants in São Paulo and superb ceviche, it also serves
Rio de Janeiro. It has an informal, contemporary international
relaxed atmosphere and views dishes and has a pisco bar. Mato Grosso do Sul
over Lagoa Paranoá. BONITO: Casa do João $
Seafood
BRASÍLIA: Dalí Camões $$$ BRASÍLIA: Trattoria da Rua Coronel Nelson Felício dos
Portuguese/Spanish Rosario $$$ Santos 664A
Setor Hoteleiro Sul, Qd 6, Bl B (Brasil 21) Italian Tel (67) 3255 1212
Tel (61) 3039 8156 Closed Sun Shopping Fashion Park – SHIS Qi 17, Casa do João should satisfy
Located in Hotel Brasil 21, this Bl H s/n most diners, offering a good
smart, elegant restaurant serves a Tel (61) 3248 1672 Closed Mon variety of tasty local dishes in
nice selection of Portuguese and One of the most consistent large portions.
Catalan specialties. Don’t miss Italian restaurants in town –
the seafood selection platter. although not the cheapest – is CAMPO GRANDE: Cantina
this smart spot in Fashion Park. Romana $$
BRASÍLIA: Fogo de Chão $$$ Italian
Barbecue (Churrascaria) Rua da Paz 237
SHS Quadra 5, Bloco E, Asa Sul Goiás Tel (67) 3324 9777
Tel (61) 3322 4666 CHAPADA DOS VEADEIROS: This is a popular, reliable Italian
This is a branch of the excellent Massa da Mamma $ cantina that has built a name and
Fogo de Chão barbecue house, Italian local following since opening in
recognized as one of the best all- Rua São José Operário, 305 1978. The owner also operates
you-can-eat barbecues in Brazil. Tel (62) 3446 1362 the busy Pizzeria Romana in
Centrally located, it is, not As its name suggests, this is a Campo Grande.
surprisingly, one of the city’s simple Italian cantina. Its specialty
most popular, and it seats 600. is pasta, but it also offers pizza. CAMPO GRANDE:
Fogo Caipira $$
BRASÍLIA: Gero $$$ Brazilian
Italian Tocantins Rua José Antônio Pereira 145
SHIN, CA 4, Lote A, loja 22 PALMAS: Adelaide Bistro $ Tel (67) 3324 1641 Closed Mon
Tel (61) 3577 5520 Brazilian Considered the best restaurant
Located in the Shopping Quadra 110 Sul, Alameda 21 lotes in Campo Grande for regional
Iguatemi mall, this is a branch of 73/75 Pantanal fare, Fogo Caipira is
Fasano’s fashionable and popular Tel (63) 9214 0792 very popular on weekends, so
contemporary Italian eatery. In a residential area, this is the consider booking in advance. It
Stylish, yet relaxed, it is one of best place in Tocantins for a also serves lighter meals and
the best restaurants in town. relaxing meal. It has a pretty snacks in the late afternoon.
CURITIBA: Terra Madre $$$

Santa Catarina & Italian
Rua Desembargador Otávio do
Paraná Amaral, 515
Tel (41) 3335 6070 Closed Mon;
Santa Catarina lunch Tue–Fri; dinner Sun
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Restinga Modern Italian and international
Recanto $ fare with Brazilian influences is
Seafood offered here, on a well-balanced
Rodovia Rafael da Rocha Pires, 2759 menu. Terra Madre also has a
Tel (48) 3235 2093 Closed Sun wine bar and store.
dinner, Mon
This popular rustic restaurant FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Bufalo
serves super-fresh Portuguese- Branco $
style seafood. It has panoramic Brazilian
beach and sea views from the Rua Engenheiro Rebouças, 530
terrace and there is folk-dancing Tel (45) 3523 9744
on weekends. Notes written by diners adorning the walls Probably the best barbecue
of Arante, Florianópolis house in town, the casual and
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Arante $$ fun Bufalo Branco serves
Seafood CURITIBA: Barolo Trattoria $$ excellent quality meats. It is
Rua Abelardo Otácilio Gomes 254, Italian centrally located but offers free
Pântano do Sul Av Silva Jardim, 2487 transfers from some of the out-
Tel (48) 3237 7022 Tel (41) 3243 3430 of-town hotels.
Something of a local fixture, Dishes at this excellent, charming
this large beachside bar and trattoria have a few Brazilian FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Clube
restaurant gets crowded on influences. Nice, sophisticated Maringá $
weekends and on summer atmosphere. Good wine list. Seafood
evenings, it serves reliable Rua Dourado, 111
seafood dishes. The walls are CURITIBA: Batel Grill $$ Tel (45) 3527 9683 Closed Mon
covered in notes left by visitors Brazilian Part of the local fishing club,
since the 1970s. Av Nossa Senhora Aparecida, 78 this is a good choice for lunch,
Tel (41) 3342 8101 with a great view across the
FLORIANÓPOLIS: This large, modern, popular river and on to Paraguay. The
Ostradamus $$ rodizio all-you-can-eat barbecue fixed-price buffet includes
Seafood house is considered the best of not only international dishes,
Rod Baldicero Filomeno, 7640 its type in Curitiba. but also the local delicacy, Pirá
Tel (48) 3337 5711 Closed Mon de Foz –fish fillet in white wine
Oysters are a specialty here and ginger sauce.
and are freshly harvested from DK Choice
the neighboring oyster beds, CURITIBA: Durski $$ FOZ DO IGUAÇU: La Mafia $
18 miles (30 km) from the International Italian
center of Florianópolis. Other Av Jaime Reis 254 Alameda Watslaf Nieradka, 195
seafood options are available, Tel (41) 3225 7893 Closed Mon– Tel (45) 3572 1015
too, served with a wide variety Tue; lunch Wed–Fri; dinner Sun This fun, quirky Mafia-themed
of well-preserved wines. Named best restaurant in Italian trattoria and wine bar is
Curitba in 2016, Durski offers an popular with visitors and serves
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Villa international menu with Slavic tasty food at reasonable prices.
Maggioni $$ specialties. Try the tasting menu Their pastas and bruschettas are
Mediterranean for an intense experience. The not to be missed.
Rua Canto da Amizade 273, Canto wine list includes offerings from
da Lagoa as early as 1780.
Tel (48) 3232 6859 Closed Mon & Tue DK Choice
This intimate award-winning FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Itaipu $$$
restaurant on the shores of CURITIBA: L’Épicerie $$ Brazilian
Lagoa da Conceição has an French Belmond Hotel das Cataratas,
international menu featuring Rua Fernando Simas, 340 Iguaçu National Park
Italian and Mediterranean dishes, Tel (41) 3079 1889 Closed Sun & Tel (45) 2102 7000
Mon Even if not staying at the Hotel
Considered the city’s best French Cataratas, you should head out
Paraná restaurant, this is a charming, for dinner either at the Itaipu,
CURITIBA: Madalosso $ reliable, comfy bistro in one of with its terrace overlooking
Italian Curitiba’s best neighborhoods. the falls, or the more popular
Av Manoel Ribas, 5875 poolside Ipê Grill. Itaipu offers
Tel 41 3372 2121 CURITIBA: Famiglia Caliceti – an interesting fusion of
A very large restaurant (it Ristorante Bologna $$ international and Brazilian
seats 4,500), Madalosso is an Italian dishes, while Ipê Grill serves an
attraction in its own right, Alameda Doutor Carlos de Carvalho, 1367 outstanding high-class buffet
serving a good-quality, fixed- Tel (41) 3076 9477 Closed Tue including barbecue, a wide
price Italian buffet in a number A pretty and traditional Italian choice of salads, and Brazilian
of salons. It is located in the restaurant, this has been desserts. Contact the hotel
Italian quarter of the city, in something of an institution for reservations.
Santa Felicidade. since opening in 1972.
PARANAGUÁ: Danúbio Azul $$ PORTO ALEGRE: Via Veneto PORTO ALEGRE: Puppi
Seafood Galeteria $ Baggio $$
Rua XV de Novembro, 95 Brazilian Italian
Tel (41) 3423 3255 Closed Sun dinner Rua José de Alencar, 501 Rua Dinarte Ribeiro, 155
On the water’s edge, this restaur Tel (51) 3233 1400 Closed Sun Tel (51) 3346 3630 Closed Mon
ant, open since 1953, specializes dinner Some of the best and most
in seafood and Paraná cuisine. Try Barbecued chicken is the specialty reliable pasta dishes in town, as
for a table by the window. A at this excellent restaurant, but well as great pizzas, are served
buffet is served at lunch. there is also a full buffet of other here, in a rustic, chic setting
dishes and accompaniments. inside a lovely house. Puppi
Baggio is well loved by the locals.
PORTO ALEGRE: Al Dente $$
Rio Grande do Sul Italian PORTO ALEGRE: Ratskeller
Rua Mata Bacelar, 210 Baumbach $$
Tel 51 3343 1841 Closed Sun; German
DK Choice dinner Mon Av Para 1324
BENTO GONÇALVES: A small, cozy, intimate Italian Tel (51) 3346 4322 Closed Mon;
Casa di Paolo $ restaurant. Classic, consistently Sun dinner
Brazilian wellprepared north Italian dishes Popular ever since it first opened
BR-470, Km 221.6 are the main thrust here. in 1967, Ratskeller Baumbach is
Tel (54) 3463 8505 Closed Sun considered by many to serve the
dinner PORTO ALEGRE: Koh Pee Pee $$ best German food in Porto Alegre.
A southern specialty is Asian It also serves some Central
mouthwatering, slowbarbecued Rua Schiller, 83 European dishes, including
chicken (galeto), and the Casa di Tel (51) 3333 5150 Closed Sun Hungarian delicacies. Reasonably
Paolo chain, which also serves Since opening in 1997, this priced, it offers buffet or á la
other dishes, is often voted best stylish, authentic Thai restaurant carte options for lunch, as well
in class. You will find branches has kept its standards high. It is as kids’ set menus.
across the south including regarded as one of Porto Alegre’s
Balneário Cambroiú, Porto very best restaurants of any type.
Alegre, Caxias, and Gramado. DK Choice
PORTO ALEGRE: NB Steak $$ PORTO ALEGRE: Floriano
Barbecue (Churrascaria) Spiess Cozinha de autor $$$
BENTO GONÇALVES: Av Nilo Peçanha, 2131 International
Maria Valduga $$ Tel (51) 3333 1413 Praça do Japão, 155
Italian This is part of a chain of smart, Tel (51) 3237 7601 Closed Sun &
Via Trento, 2355 – Vale dos Vinhedos comfortable rodízio allyoucan Mon
Tel (54) 2105 3122 eat barbecue houses, with a This is the city’s most talked
Four charming dining areas make more elegant presentation than about and written about
up Maria Valduga, located within many of its rivals. contemporary restaurant,
the Valduga winery. A set meal is yet still retains a culinary foot
served at lunch, and it opens for PORTO ALEGRE: Paris 6 $$ in the best of the past. Serious
dinner for groups of 20 or more. French gourmands should indulge in
Rua Padre Chagas 32 the creative eightcourse
GRAMADO: Belle du Valais $$ Tel (51) 3574 0265 tasting menu prepared by
Swiss Part of a chain based in São the awardwinning owner
Av das Hortências, 1432 Paolo, this restaurant serves and chef, and served in an
Tel (54) 3286 1744 Closed lunch everything from fresh croissants elegant but friendly setting.
This popular, cozy spot is great for to homemade pastas, many of Make sure you save room for
fondue and raclette in the colder which are named after celebrities dessert. Book ahead.
winter months, and is one of the who often show up here.
best Swiss restaurants in Brazil.
GRAMADO: La Caceria $$$

Brazilian
Av Borges de Medeiros 3166
Tel (54) 3295 7575
The charming top restaurant of the
Casa da Montanha hotel has a
small but interesting menu with
a focus on game and other by
products of the hunt. The hotel also
houses the cozy Bistrô da Varanda.
GRAMADO: Saint Andrews

Primrose $$$
French/Italian
Rua das Flores 171
Tel (54) 3295 7700
Housed in one of Gramado’s best
boutique hotels, the elegant
Primrose restaurant offers high
quality fine dining. The warm decor at Koh Pee Pee, Porto Alegre
SHOPPING IN BRAZIL
The most exciting aspect of shopping (workshops) showcase the unique,
in Brazil is that it never fails to surprise attractive products manufactured by the
visitors with its amazing variety. Major local people. Colorful street markets and
cities, such as Rio (see pp94–5) and camelódromos offer a truly exhilarating
São Paulo (pp154–5), have expansive, Brazilian shopping experience. The prices
world-class shopping centers that are, by and large, reasonable, and large
have everything from sophisticated items can be shipped home. In most state
boutiques to high-tech items. Craft capitals and tourist areas the opening
centers, artisans’ houses, and ateliers hours are extended for convenience.
Opening Hours and department store,

Business hours are normally 8am hypermarkets are often located
to 6pm on weekdays and 8am on main roads and the outskirts
to 1pm on Saturdays. In large of towns. Apart from the
cities, tourist areas, and resorts, ubiquitous local chain, Extra,
hours are more flexible. Stores in foreign names such as WalMart
central areas stay open until 7 or and Carrefour also have a
8pm on weekdays and 4pm on formidable presence in Brazil.
Saturdays. Shopping centers In resorts, smaller shopping
are open 10am to 10pm from centers sell souvenirs and
Monday to Saturday. In resorts fashionable items. Department
and tourist areas, even small stores such as C&A and Lojas
stores are open daily until Interior of an upmarket clothing store in Americanas have found their
midnight in the high season. Jardins, São Paulo way into shopping centers,
although they exist more
Shopping Centers & prominently as street shops in
How to Pay Hypermarkets the large city centers.
Major credit cards are accepted More convenient than street
in most stores in large cities and stores and offering much
resorts, though there may be a more than shopping alone, Markets &
minimum spend value (about shopping centers have multi Camelódromos
R$50). International debit cards plied in the last few years. Fast Almost every mediumsize city
are commonly accepted even food chains and restaurants, in Brazil has its own special
for small amounts. US dollars are department stores and bou market, some located in
sometimes accepted in tourist tiques, clothes repair, cobblers, beautiful historical buildings.
areas, but in small towns it is and other services can all now Lively and picturesque, these
best to pay in cash using the be found within one complex. markets sell an array of fresh
real (see p415). A combination of supermarket products from meat and fish
Ver o Peso, Belém’s picturesque waterfront mercado (market)

SHOPPING IN BRAZIL  399
to fruit and cheese. Authentic in Belém and the Ilha de Marajó.

regional food, typical sweets, Delicate lacework is found in
and crafts can also be found all northeastern states, while
here. Ver o Peso market in Belém Pernambuco and Bahia are
(see p272) and public markets in famed for their fine ceramics.
Olinda (Pernambuco), Manaus Woven items, hand-crafted
(Rua dos Bares), and Porto furniture, and Arraiolo tapestry
Alegre (Rio Grande do Sul) are are popular in Minas Gerais.
good examples. In the south, Santa Catarina’s
Everywhere in Brazil, street crystalware is exceptional. In the
traders or camelôs sell goods on state of Rio Grande do Sul, it is
improvised stands, or at places worth looking for good-quality
called camelódromos. A wide leather as well as woolen items
range of items, from clothes in Gramado and Caxias do Sul.
to electronics of fairly decent
quality, are sold at reasonably Salesman displaying gems, Howard Stern
reduced prices. Gems Jewelers, Ipanema
It is possible for shoppers to Brazil is one of the leading
bargain at open-air markets. countries in the world’s gem Food & Drink
Vendors will often start at reserves. It is the world’s largest Brazil is known for its rich
double the price of products, exporter of rough-cut gems and variety of conserves, dried
but with a little skill and some the sixth-largest exporter of fruits, and cakes (see pp384–5).
charm on the part of the buyer, worked gems. The variety and Another favorite is fruit – figs,
this can be reduced. Be on quantity of precious stones are citron ciders, pineapples,
guard in crowded street spectacular. Amethyst, citrine, and oranges – crystallized in
markets, as pickpockets are not diamond, emerald, opal, and compôte. These delicacies
uncommon. Be discreet when royal topaz are just a few of the can be bought at public
taking out money to pay. gems that Brazil is famous for. markets, craft centers, and
Rough and worked pieces can confectioners’ shops, found
be bought in the cities of Ouro everywhere in Brazil.
Preto (Minas Gerais), Cuiabá An immensely popular
(Mato Grosso), Salvador and beverage, cachaça (sugar-cane
Chapada Diamantina (Bahia), liquor) is produced all over the
and Porto Alegre. Designed country and locally distilled
jewelry can also be found in (see p385). The best cachaça
these places, as well as in São comes from Minas Gerais,
Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Rio de Janeiro, Bahia,
Although gems are largely Pernambuco, and Ceará. It can
sold in open-air markets, it is also be bought at craft centers,
best to buy them at stores local bars, and in hypermarkets
offering origin warranty cer- in the larger cities.
Traditional musical instruments and masks tificates, which gives the weight Excellent coffee and gourmet
for sale in Bahia (in carats), quality, origin, and – blends are easily available in all
in the case of ready-made big cities in Brazil. Look out for
Art & Crafts jewelry – the characteristics the ABIC seal on the packets, as
Every region in Brazil has its of any precious metal used. this certifies the coffee quality.
own distinctive handicrafts.
The use of specific raw materials
makes every piece of work
unique. The best way to buy
these pieces is to go directly to
the ateliers. Tourist information
offices can provide the
addresses. Craft centers, where
artists can be seen at work,
offer lower prices than the
upmarket souvenir shops.
Typical Amazonian crafts
include indigenous masks,
jewelry, plume helmets,
basketwork, and bows and
arrows in Manaus, Belém, and
Santarém. Attractive replicas
of Marajoara pottery are sold ç emporium in Paraty, with a large array of different types for sale
Cachaça
ça
ENTERTAINMENT IN BRAZIL
Entertainment in Brazil varies according to Brazilians. In a country known for the
the region and the city, but one thing is richness of its rhythms, there are venues
certain – Brazilians love going to bars, cafés, catering to all kinds of music and dancing,
or botecos (a kind of bar with snacks and an from forró, samba, and axé to techno and
old-fashioned atmosphere) to meet with hiphop. Outdoor activities, such as soccer
friends and drink cold beer. This usually and volleyball, are national pastimes. Water
happens before and after other activities parks, beaches, and public gardens are also
such as watching movies, plays, and shows. good places to enjoy the warm weather
Dancing is another popular activity with and outdoor activities.
Information & Booking variety of events, such as plays, in Nova Jerusalém (see p227)
Most Brazilian shows, such as dance, and art exhibitions, in the state of Pernambuco.
plays and operas, do not run for performed by professional or Another big performance
very long and tickets must be amateur companies. takes place every January
booked quickly. Rio and São in São Vicente (see p173),
Paulo have specific magazines retelling the story of the
with a good listing of events Performing Arts foundation of the town.
and entertainment (see p99 & Theater and dance shows are Musical shows are as prolific
p157). In most other Brazilian popular in bigger cities in Brazil, in Brazil. They take place at
cities, local newspapers are the where the theaters feature venues ranging from bars and
best way to find out what’s on. regular shows. At some resorts, theaters to sophisticated
They usually come with special dance or musical performances cultural centers. During music
sections or supplements on take place during the high festivals, concerts are held in
Fridays or on weekends season, or during specific open-air areas, such as squares,
showing cinema, theater, and summer or winter festivals. public parks, or beaches.
other entertainment listings. Most plays run only for a The really big and famous acts,
Only the most active theaters season. There is a fair amount which can be costly, usually
and concert houses provide of traditional and experimental perform in the stadia and
listings on the Internet. In some theater, many dance require advance booking
big cities, shows can also be performances, and chamber of tickets.
booked via Ticketmaster using and classical music recitals to
Visa, MasterCard, and American attend. Some performances
Express, for a small additional have become annual traditions, Cinema
service fee. Hotel concierges such as The Passion of Christ In larger cities, most of the
can often be helpful and play staged during Passion modern multiplex cinemas are
informative when it comes to Week at an open-air theater located in shopping centers.
finding out what shows are on
and booking them as well.
Discount Tickets &

Free Events
In general, students and seniors
(over 60) get a 50 percent
discount for most events. The
conditions for students vary
from state to state. Students
must usually show their
university identity card or proof
of enrollment. There are many
free events at museums and
cultural centers, but as they
become crowded quickly,
arriving early is wise.
Almost every city has one or
more cultural centers. Supported
by the government or by private
companies, they often offer
cheap tickets or free access to a A view of the private boxes in the Teatro Amazonas, Manaus (see pp286–7)
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N B R A Z I L  401
Inside Rio City’s world-famous soccer stadium, Estádio Maracanã (see p88)
These cinemas mainly feature and buzzing with activity sell tickets on the Internet.
recent Hollywood and European through the week, and There are some websites that
movies, as well as Brazilian films. especially on weekends. Cities sell tickets online, provided
There are also a few good without beaches generally this is done well in advance.
cineclubs, especially in Rio and make do with tables and chairs Most travel agencies and hotel
São Paulo, that host feature- and spread over the sidewalks with concierges are able to assist
short-film festivals, often impromptu cafés sprouting up with the finding and buying
screening films with English outside restaurants. of soccer tickets.
subtitles. There are four main
cinema chains operating in
Brazil – United Cinemas Soccer Matches Gardens & Theme Parks
International (UCI), Cinemark, Soccer is a national passion – Public gardens and parks are
Brazilian Playarte, and Cinemais. across Brazil there are 800 soccer always crowded on weekends.
They offer facilities for disabled clubs, 13,000 amateur teams, Many of them offer jogging
people, and sell tickets in and 300 stadia, including Rio tracks, roller-skating rinks, sports
advance via the Internet, or City’s Estádio Maracanã (see p88), courts for playing soccer,
at the box office. which hosted the 2014 World volleyball, basketball, tennis,
Cup final. There are many cham- and other games.
pionships through the year, Theme parks are becoming
Bars, Cafés & Botecos with matches on Wednesdays, increasingly popular every-
Nightlife is always exciting in Thursdays, and weekends. where in Brazil. Nowadays, most
large cities, resorts, and tourist It is not always easy to get of these parks include some
areas. Bars are open through a ticket for these games, and form of outdoor activity, such as
the week, usually after 6pm very often there are immense swimming pools, waterslides,
until 1 or 2am (some continue queues to purchase tickets. water tobogganing, horse-
until sunrise, especially those Clubs and stadia do not riding, and roller coasters.
on the beaches); some are open
24 hours. Most cities offer a
wide variety of bars to visit –
dance bars, bars with live music,
and in the bigger cities, gay
and lesbian bars. Botecos –
traditionally carioca bars known
for their simplicity and good
snacks – have now been
adopted by many cities and
have increased in popularity
and sophistication.
Happy hour is an institution
in many of the larger cities. It
begins at 6pm and extends until
9 or 10pm, after which many
people carry on at all-night bars.
Bars and kiosks on and near
the beaches are often crowded Live music in the popular Carioca da Gema, Lapa district, Rio de Janeiro
SPECIALIZED HOLIDAYS &

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
The climate and great variety of beautiful climbing peaks in spectacular settings.
landscapes – mountains, flatlands, waterfalls, However, the infrastructure varies from
and forests – make Brazil an outstanding region to region. It is best to get in touch
outdoor destination. This ecological with reputed tour operators licensed by
paradise offers great opportunities to the Brazil Ministry of Tourism (see p409),
observe its fascinating flora and fauna, or to a government tourism agency. Other
indulge in adventure sports that allow close interesting activities may involve learning
contact with the environment. Visitors can to dance to the beautiful rhythms of forró
choose from a range of thrilling activities and samba, performing the legendary
such as rappeling down cliffs, canyoning, or capoeira, or even joining a game of soccer.
Ecotourism good trekking trails, forested walking is involved, going during

Brazil’s rich and varied ecosystem areas, and scenic waterfalls. the drier months (July–Nov), will
has much to offer, and ecotour National parks such as Serra dos mean paths will be easier going
ism has become a popular way Órgãos (see p119), Parque and skies will be clearer.
to experience the wildlife up Nacional do Itatiaia (see p115),
close. Visitors can capture on and Aparados da Serra (see p362),
film the splendor of the Amazon and natural reserves such as Ilha Bird-Watching & Safaris
rainforest near Manaus or do Cardoso (see p175) offer a Home to almost a fifth of the
Belem, or enjoy excursions broad range of biodiversity. Look world’s bird population, Brazil
deeper into the forest organized for Fazenda Palomas or contact offers a surfeit of birdwatching
by jungle lodges. The farther Fellini Turismo for special rural excursions. Birding Brasil
away the lodges are from cities, tours in Rio Grande do Sul. Turismo provides good deals.
the better the chances of When booking a tour, check Iara Turismo conducts special
spotting wildlife. Amazon the size of the group, how long programs. Estação Ecológica
Mystery Tours and Amazon will be spent at each location, Santa Lúcia organizes regular
Gero are based in Manaus; in whether an expert nature guide birdwatching. Ornithologist
Belém contact Amazon Star. will be leading the tour, and Edson Endrigo runs tours to
Pantanal Explorer offers tours what exactly is included. A key Parque Nacional Itatiaia (see p115)
and expeditions into the feature of ecotourism is the and Ubatuba. A typical safari can
wilderness of Pantanal, Nobres, active involvement of the local be experienced at Jalapão State
and Chapada dos Guimarães community, so it is worth asking Park (see p314–15). The travel
from Cuiabá. whether the tour will be visiting agency Korubo Expedições
Serra da Capivara (see pp252–3
pp252–3) any families for meals or other uses a truck with hatches for
and Sete Cidades parks (Piauí) activities. If the tour is by boat, professional photo equipment.
(see p253) offer hikes to see rock going during wetter months,
formations, while Chapada May–June, will allow small craft
Diamantina in Bahia (see pp208– to go up sidecreeks, with better Off-Road Driving
9) and Chapada dos Veadeiros possibilities of spotting wildlife. Many beautiful sites in
(see pp316–17) in Goiás have On the other hand, if much Brazil are accessible only by
off road vehicles.
off
The Transpantaneira
road (Pantanal) and
the Estrada Park road
are attractions in
themselves, allowing
passengers to leisurely
observe the flora and
fauna. The Transpant
aneira extends 93 miles
(149 km) from Poconé
to Porto Jofre in Mato
Grosso and has 126
wooden bridges to
cross. Many inns and
The rare and striking scarlet ibises that inhabit the Ilha de Marajó (see p274) farms receive visitors
S P E C I A L I Z E D H O L I D AY S & O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S  403
along this road. Stretching 73

miles (117 km), the Estrada Park
road links Corumbá to Buraco
das Piranhas (Piranha’s Hole)
in the state of Mato Grosso do
Sul. Another enjoyable road
experience is to cross Jalapão
State Park, a wonderful contrast
of golden dunes and gushing
waterfalls. Korubo Expedições
offers weeklong packages
leaving from Palmas. The
Northeast region’s off
offroad
adventure Rota das Dunas
(Dunes Route) runs from Ecotourism by bicycle, Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses
Fortaleza (Ceará) to São Luís
(Maranhão), passing through (Santa Catarina). There are Paulo) are easier, while Praia
Jericoacoara Beach and Delta 30 trails that traverse its Joaquinas and other beaches
do Parnaíba (a group of 80 42 beaches, lakes, and stunning in Florianópolis offer more
islands) and Parque Nacional landscape. These and other challenging watersports
dos Lençóis Maranhenses options in the state can be activities (see pp350–51).
(see pp254–5). For bookings found at Caminhos do Sertão. The country has many
contact Jeri Off-Road. Cycling tours near the Parque scubadiving options. PDIC
Nacional Aparados da Serra Brasil (Professional Diving
covering the cities of Gramado, Instructor’s Corporation) is
Cycling & Biking Canela, and the Vale dos Vinhedos a good place to contact.
Cycling and mountain biking (see p359) are organized by Casa Rio de Janeiro state, Cabo
have been attracting increasing da Montanha Adventures. Frio, Angra dos Reis, Paraty,
numbers of enthusiasts to Brazil. Accommodation can be found and Ilhabela in São Paulo are
Many tour operators rent bikes, at the Parador Casa da Montanha, outstanding places for diving
and provide necessary equip a kind of luxurious camping site. and exploring shipwrecks.
ment, food, and accommodation. Beaches in the Northeast
Trancoso (Bahia) is the starting are a snorkeler’s paradise.
point of the Discovery Route – a Water Sports Among the sail sports, kite
crossing that passes through Vast stretches of beach, and an surf reigns in Ceará’s beaches
wonderful beaches. Contact abundance of rivers, lakes, and and lakes near Jericoacoara.
Sampa Bikers for details. waterfalls make water sports Info Kite School provides
Another popular mountain widely available and accessible facilities, tours, and safaris
biking destination in Bahia is the in Brazil. Fernando de Noronha for intermediate to advanced
Chapada Diamantina. Terra (Pernambuco) and Itacaré kiters in Preá, a small fishing
Chapada Expedições organizes (Bahia) are hot destinations for village east of Jericoacoara.
multiday tours through the park. water sports such as snorkeling, Rafting and canoeing
Mountain biking is an surfing, and windsurfing. Búzios enthusiasts should head to
interesting way to discover the and Rio (Rio de Janeiro), and Brotas and Socorro, in São Paulo;
attractions of Florianópolis Ubatuba and Guarujá (São Três Rios, in Rio de Janeiro;
Domingos Martins, in Espírito
Santo; Jaguariaíva and Tibagi, in
Paraná; Apiúna, in Santa Catarina;
and Rio Cristlino, in the Amazon
rainforest of Mato Grosso.
Cascading and canyoning
can be challenging, but highly
enjoyable, in the waterfalls of
Chapada dos Veadeiros in Goiás,
and in the Cipó mountains in
Minas Gerais where visitors can
get in touch with ABETA
(Brazilian Adventure Travel
Trade Association).
For those who enjoy fishing,
Clube de Pesca Cananéia helps
organize expeditions. This club
also makes arrangements for
Canoeing on the Rio Cristalino near Cristalino Jungle Lodge (see p323) the obligatory fishing license.
Language & Culture

Almost 70 universities in the
country offer Portuguese classes
to foreign students. Many of these
courses are now open to visitors.
Some language schools also offer
flexible Portuguese courses,
which can stretch from one week
to many months. These lessons
may include lectures on Brazilian
culture and guided tours of
museums and galleries. Some of
them prepare for the Portuguese
Proficiency Certificate (CELPE-
Bras), the Portuguese-language Couples dancing the forró
forr on a festive occasion
qualification granted by the
Ministério da Educação. Samba Schools family packages. The coaching
Excellence Idiomas, Idiomas The neighborhood samba programs vary from a week
to Go, and Diálogo Language schools in Rio de Janeiro and to several months and may
School are some of the better other major cities are at the include friendly games and
private-school options. heart of the annual Carnaval. tournaments for players bet-
They work year round on their ween 6 and 18 years of age.
music and dance preparations, Good options are Central de
Music & Dance including making costumes and Intercambio in São Paulo City
The sensuous dance forms of extravagant creations for their and Cruzeiro Esporte Clube in
Brazil have evoked a lot of parades. Whether attending the Belo Horizonte (Minas Gerais).
interest worldwide. With their Carnaval or not, visitors can take
natural hospitality, Brazilians are part in dance rehearsals, which
easily motivated to teach dance is a fun way of meeting the Capoeira Classes
steps at bars, dance houses, locals and learning some samba The amalgam of acrobatic
parties, and local performances. moves. Top samba schools in movements, rhythm, music,
You can also arrange to take Rio de Janeiro include Beija and song make capoeira
professional dancing classes Flor, Grande Rio, Mangueira, (see p203) a big draw. Almost
in the cities. In Rio de Janeiro, Portela, and Mocidade. every city has an academy.
it is possible to learn with the In Salvador, Filhos de Bimba
famous dancer Carlinhos de is one of the best and most
Jesus at Casa de Dança. Diálogo Soccer famous capoeira schools.
Language School conducts Soccer was introduced into With several branches
workshops on dancing and Brazil by a Scottish railway outside Brazil, it strives to
singing to Brazilian rhythms, engineer in the 1890s and grew keep alive the regional
which may be tied in with to become the nation’s favorite spirit of capoeira.
Portuguese-language classes. sport. It is possible to arrange
Also, keep your ears open for day and residential soccer
reggae beats on the streets camps, as well as team and Volunteer Programs
throughout the Northeast. individual training sessions or Volunteers can work in
non-profit organizations
contributing in the fields
of education, child welfare,
health, ecology, and the
environment. This is a good
way of getting to know local
people, and at the same time
making a social contribution.
These programs are open to
adults of any age, and may
include homestay with a
Brazilian family. The program
duration commonly varies from
two to ten months. To enroll
contact Diálogo Language
School, World Study or AFS
Intercultura Brasil. For all such
programs, a basic knowledge
A rigorous soccer training session, Ipanema beach, Rio de Janeiro City of Portuguese is required.
S P E C I A L I Z E D H O L I D AY S & O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S  405
DIRECTORY
Ecotourism Korubo Expedições PDIC Brasil Mangueira
Rua Traipu 260, São Paulo. (Professional Diving Rua Visconde de Niterói
Amazon Mystery Tel (11) 8222 5028. Instructors 1072, Mangueira.
Tours ∑ jalapao.com Corporation) Tel (21) 2567 3419.
Rua 2, Casa 23 Parque Av Presidente Vargas 446, ∑ mangueira.com.br
Tropical. Off-Road Driving Grupo 1006, Rio de Janeiro.
Tel (92) 9 8430 7763. Mocidade
Jeri Off-Road Tel (21) 2263 8068. Avenida Brasil, 31.146,
∑ amazon-outdoor.
Rua Principal 208. ∑ pdic.com.br Padre Miguel.
com
Jericoacoara, Ceará. Tel (21) 3291 8700.
Amazon Gero Tel (88) 3669 2268.
Language & ∑ mocidadeindepen
Rua 10 de Julho 695, ∑ jeri.tur.br
Culture dente.com.br
Manaus.
Diálogo Language Portela
Tel (92) 3232 4755. Cycling & Biking School
∑ amazongero.com Rua Clara Nunes 81,
Caminhos do Sertão Rua João Ponde 240, Madureira.
Amazon Star Rua Caminho do Barra, Salvador, Bahia. Tel (21) 2247 4800.
Rua Henrique Gurjão Tel (71) 3264 0053. ∑ gresportela.org.br
Arvoredo 169, Rio
236, Belem, Pará. ∑ dialogo-brazilstudy.
Vermelho, Florianópolis,
Tel (91) 3212 6244.
Santa Catarina. com Soccer
∑ amazonstar.com.br
Tel (48) 3234 7712.
Excellence Idiomas Central de
Fazenda Palomas ∑ caminhosdosertao.
Rua Barata Ribeiro 391, Intercambio
BR-158 Santana do com.br
Copacabana. Av Paulista 726, Loja 7,
Livramento, Rio Grande
Casa da Montanha Tel (21) 2225 7430. São Paulo.
do Sul.
Adventures ∑ excellenceidiomas. Tel (11) 3262 4012.
Tel (55) 3505 6417.
Av Borges Medeiros 3116, com.br Cruzeiro Esporte
Fellini Turismo Gramado.
Idiomas to Go Clube
Rua Gen Bento Martins, Tel (54) 3295 7525.
Alameda Jauaperi 1020, Av Otacílio Negrão
24 Conj. 401, Porto Alegre, ∑ paradorcasa
São Paulo. de Lima 7100,
Rio Grande do Sul. damontanha.com.br
Tel (11) 5052 4802. Bairro Bandeirante,
Tel (51) 3216 6300.
Sampa Bikers ∑ idiomastogo. com.br Belo Horizonte.
Pantanal Explorer Rua Baluarte 672, ∑ cruzeiro.com.br
Av Governador Ponce de São Paulo. Ministério da
Arruda 670, Varzea Tel (11) 5517 7733. Educação Capoeira Classes
Grande, Mato Grosso. ∑ sampabikers.com.br Esplanada dos Ministérios,
Tel (65) 3682 2800. Bloco L, Sala 227, Brasília. Filhos de Bimba
Terra Chapada Rua Gregório de Mattos 51,
Tel (0800) 616161.
Bird-Watching Expedições Pelourinho, Salvador, Bahia.
∑ sisu.mec.gov.br
Tel (75) 3334 1428.
& Safaris Tel (71) 3322 5082.
∑ terrachapada.com.br
Music & Dance ∑ filhosdebimba.
Birding Brasil Turismo com.br
Conjunto Acariquara 214, Water Sports Casa de Dança
Manaus, Amazonas.
ABETA (Brazilian
Rua Álvaro Ramos 11, Volunteer
∑ birdingbraziltours.
Adventure Travel Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro. Programs
com Tel (21) 2541 6186.
Trade Association) AFS Intercultura
∑ carlinhosdejesus.
Edson Endrigo Rua Minerva 156, Brasil
Rua Antonio Aggio Perdizes, São Paulo. com.br
Rua Teófilo Otoni,
1296/11, São Paulo. Tel (11) 2371 5336. 82 Centro.
Tel (11) 3742 8374. ∑ abeta.tur.br
Samba Schools
Tel (21) 0800 291 0121.
∑ avesfoto.com.br Beija Flor ∑ afs.org.br
Clube de Pesca
Estação Ecológica Cananéia Pracinha Wallace Paes
World Study
Santa Lúcia Rua João Maciel, Porto Leme 1025, Nilópolis.
Rua Piumí 987, Sion, Belo
Av José Ruschi 4, Museu Cubatão, Cananéia, Tel (21) 2247 4800.
Horizonte, Minas Gerias.
Mello Leitão, Santa São Paulo. ∑ beija-flor.com.br
Tel (31) 2535 0987.
Teresa, Espírito Santo. Tel (13) 3851 6117. Grande Rio ∑ worldstudy.com.br
Tel (27) 3259 1182. ∑ pescacananeia. Colégio São José, Avenida
com.br Presidente Kennedy,
Iara Turismo
Av Gov José Maicher 815, Info Kite School Duque de Caxias.
Belém, Pará. Rua Sao Francisco, Jeri Tel (21) 2671 3585.
Tel (91) 4006 3850. Center, Jericoacoara. ∑ academicosdo
∑ iaraturismo.com.br Tel (88) 9922 0922. grandrio.com.br
survival
guide
Practical Information 408–417

Travel Information 418–427
408  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourism is a major industry in Brazil, and the tourist destinations are very well set up to
country has invested heavily in airports, receive international visitors. English and
hotels, and other facilities. Brazil offers a Spanish are generally spoken by those who
variety of travel experiences for all ages and work in the tourism industry. However,
tastes, from the cities of Rio de Janeiro and very few other Brazilians speak English.
São Paulo to the Amazon jungle, rainforests, Fortunately, the friendliness and outgoing
and beaches . Its sheer size makes air travel nature of the people more than makes up
almost a necessity for those interested in for these challenges and Brazilians overall
exploring beyond just one region. All major are very helpful in assisting foreigners.
When to Go Visas & Passports US, the Foreign and Common

High season in Brazil runs from All travelers to Brazil except those wealth Office in the UK and the
Christmas to Carnaval (held in from some South American Department of Foreign Affairs
February or early March). Many countries must have a valid and Trade in Australia.
musical and cultural events take passport. Holders of European
place in these months. A Union and of most European,
second peak season is during New Zealand, Mexico, and South Tourist Information
July and August when schools African passports do not require All international and domestic
and universities have their winter a visa. Those with US, Canadian, airports in Brazil have tourist
break and many Europeans and or Australian passports need to information booths that offer
North Americans visit on their apply for a visa at the Brazilian maps, brochures, and general
summer holidays. The best embassy or consulate in their information. These are usually
times of year for lower prices country of residence. Always run by either the state or city’s
and fewer travelers are the low check the latest entry require- tourist office. The Brazilian
seasons from March to May and ments with the Brazilian embassy Ministry of Tourism’s website
September to November. in your country before leaving. is a useful source of information.
Upon arrival, visitors receive a Brazil’s embassies or larger
90-day entry stamp, which can consulates have tourist sections,
What to Take be extended for another 90 days where visitors can get
Dress standards in Brazil seem by the Polícia Federal, information brochures
largely a matter of personal taste. up to a maximum of and advice. Popular
A sarong or sheet sleeping bag 180 days per year. destinations such as
is invaluable for use as a towel, (Some nationalities are Rio and Salvador have
a bedsheet, or beach towel. unable to extend helpful tourist offices.
Bring a first-aid kit, raincoat, sun beyond 90 days.)
hat, penknife, flashlight, wax Visitors must also fill
earplugs, insect repellent, eye out an entry card to be Language
mask, and a chain for securing kept with their passport at all The language of Brazil is
luggage to bus seats. For a times. It must be Polícia Portuguese, but it is quite
jungle trip, a hammock and surrendered on leaving Federal different in style and
mosquito net will be useful. Brazil. Failure to produce badge pronunciation from the
this entry card may lead to Portuguese spoken in
a fine and difficulties. The 90 days Portugal. The language has
are added on the day of renewal, quite a few similarities with
so request the extension close Spanish. In major tourist areas,
to the expiry date. An expired the staff will speak some English
visa cannot be extended. and/or Spanish. However, in
The Polícia Federal may ask to general, English is not widely
see an outbound ticket and spoken and often Brazilians will
proof of sufficient funds for the only have a basic intermediate
remainder of your stay. Those knowledge of the language.
who outstay their visa term will
be fined upon departure.
Religion
Brazil is often called “the largest
Travel Safety Advice Catholic country on earth,”
Visitors can get up-to-date although, to be accurate, one
A local travel agency with Internet facilities, travel safety information from should probably call it the
Morro de São Paulo the State Department in the “largest and least devout” of
A small airplane flies over Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  409
Catholic nations. Many Brazilians buses are generally comfortable,

consider themselves culturally with special services offering
Catholic, without being regular fully reclining seats. Wheelchairs
churchgoers. In recent years, the are available at all main airports.
influence of the Church has
greatly diminished. Traditional
Afro-Brazilian religions are still Traveling with Children
followed, especially in the North Those traveling with small
and Northeast, with the religious children will find Brazilians
ceremonies and practices gaining very child-friendly and
more acceptance over the years. accommodating. There are
virtually no places that do not
welcome children. Brazilians
Time Local tour guide with a group of tourists themselves think nothing of
Brazil has four time zones. Most in Cachoeira bringing their children to
of the country is three hours restaurants, theaters, cafés,
behind GMT (known as the embrace. When introduced to a concerts, or other events.
Brasília Time Zone), including woman, it is customary to greet
Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, her with a handshake and a kiss
as well as all of Southern and on the cheek (one kiss in São Public Toilets
Northeast Brazil and Pará and Paulo and the South, two kisses Public toilets are not that hard
Amapá states. The island group in Rio, the North, and Northeast). to find in Brazil, but vary greatly
of Fernando de Noronha is two When introduced to a group of in cleanliness. Clean toilets can
hours behind GMT. The states of people, everybody has to kiss or usually be found in hotel
Mato Grosso, Mato Grosso do shake hands with everybody else. lobbies, shopping centers, and
Sul, Amazônia, Rondônia, and in public locations such as bus
Roraima are four hours behind stations, parks, or beaches.
GMT. The state of Acre, in the Women Travelers A fee is sometimes charged.
far western corner, is five hours A woman alone, especially at Note that toilet paper is
behind GMT. During daylight night, will attract some form of sometimes dispensed from a
saving hours it gets a little attention. It usually depends on central dispenser outside the
bit more complicated. The where you are. Steer clear of the stalls. It is a good idea to carry
southern states set their clocks area around bus stations, since a roll of toilet paper.
back an hour, but the states in it is likely to be a red-light area
the North and Northeast do not. at night. The transport terminals Directory
themselves, though, are usually
policed and fairly safe at all hours. Visas & Passports
Electricity
Polícia Federal
There is no uniform voltage Aeroporto Internacional
across Brazil. Some cities are Special Needs
Antônio Carlos Jobim,
110 volts, others 220 volts. Rio Travelers with mobility Terminal 1, Rio de Janeiro.
de Janeiro and São Paulo are problems will find Brazil a Tel (21) 3398 3182.
both 110 volts. Brasília is 220 very challenging country. ∑ dpf.gov.br
volts. Hotels will often have Although it is relatively easy
plugs for both voltages and are to find wheelchair-accessible Travel Safety Advice
good at labeling the outlets. hotels and restaurants, very
Adaptors for laptops and cell few public places are accessible Australia
phone chargers can normally or wheelchair-friendly. Older Department of Foreign Affairs
handle the full range of voltage, buildings may still lack elevators and Trade. ∑ dfat.gov.au
but it is always better to check or ramps, and streets and ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
the specifications of your sidewalks are often uneven UK
equipment to be sure. or broken. Foreign and Commonwealth
The metro system Office. ∑ gov.uk/foreign-
in Rio has electronic travel-advice
Etiquette wheelchair elevators,
US
Brazilians are very friendly but these are not always
US Department of State.
and outgoing, even operational. For short
∑ travel.state.gov
when meeting someone distances, buses are
for the first time. When not the best option for Tourist Information
introduced, men will disabled travelers to
greet each other with a get around. Taxis are Brazilian Ministry
handshake and a friendly better, and plentiful in of Tourism
slap on the shoulder. Wheelchair parking most cities. For long ∑ visitbrazil.com
Good friends usually sign distances, however,
Health & Medical Matters March. Symptoms include

high fever, joint pain, and
Brazil has a free national public health-care system. Even headaches (especially behind
foreign tourists will receive medical attention in any of the the eyes). The illness usually
public hospitals, should they require it. Unfortunately, the runs its course in a week or
10 days, but a check-up is
public health system is overloaded and inadequately funded,
recommended to avoid any
especially in the rural areas of Brazil. Queues can be long and complications. Visitors to Brazil
tedious, and facilities are not always up to European or North should take steps to avoid being
American standards. However, Brazil’s private hospitals and bitten by mosquitoes by using
clinics, though not free, offer world-class medical facilities. mosquito repellent, especially
A good travel insurance policy will give access to these between dusk and dawn.
Cholera occasionally occurs
private facilities in an emergency, but remember to check the in remote areas, but is mostly
fine print carefully. Overall, hygiene standards in Brazil are preventable by taking proper
high. Normal care is required with food and drink, and with hygiene precautions such as
preventive vaccinations, particularly when visiting the most drinking filtered water and
remote parts of the country. washing and peeling fruit
and vegetables. The most
important precaution is to
wash hands frequently.
Pharmacies
For minor ailments, travelers can
turn to Brazil’s farmácias, or
pharmacies. These can be found
everywhere, are always well
supplied, and are often open
late. Every city will have at least
one that is open 24 hours. Many
medications that in other
A fire brigade ambulance parked outside a fire control office countries are available only by
prescription can be bought over
Vaccinations However, a tropical disease the counter in Brazil. Take care
It is a good idea to consult a that can occur anywhere in the to remember the generic name
travel clinic or family doctor country, but is most abundant of a medication taken regularly.
for an International Certificate in towns, cities, and surrounding A trained pharmacist is
of Vaccinations, an up-to- areas, is dengue fever. It is a viral normally on hand to
date list of the required vaccina- infection that prevails through- recommend the appropriate
tions. The most commonly out South America. The disease medication for common
recommended are a DTP is transmitted by mosquitoes, ailments such as diarrhea,
(diphtheria, tetanus, and polio) and there is no vaccine to allergies, rashes, or infections.
booster, as well as vaccinations prevent it. It is much more It is possible to get injections
for typhoid and hepatitis A. common in the summer and free medical advice in
Vaccination against yellow months, from December to pharmacies all over Brazil.
fever (endemic to many parts
of South America) is highly
recommended, especially if you
are planning to visit rural areas in
Minas Gerais, Espírito Santo, and
Northern Rio de Janeiro State.
It is advisable to take this
vaccination 10 days prior to
arriving in Brazil. Anti-malarial
tablets may be advisable for
those visiting some of the more
remote parts of the Amazon.
Tropical Diseases
Visitors to Brazil’s major tourist
destinations rarely have to
worry about tropical diseases. A well-stocked pharmacy in São Paulo
Vacationers relaxing under umbrellas on the beach

Private Hospitals such as Rio de Janeiro and São stores sell a variety of national
Brazil does not offer the best Paulo, is generally safe to drink. and international sunscreen
medical facilities in its public In rural areas it is best avoided. brands. Those sold on the beach
hospitals. Foreign visitors, in Hygiene standards of food and itself, or in street markets, are
particular, may find it difficult drink are high in major tourist best avoided. The contents may
getting a bed, unless for an areas. Water is usually filtered or either be fake, or have been
infectious disease. In most bottled and ice cubes are made kept in storage for a long time,
public hospitals, the level of from filtered water. Even in the which causes the active
health care will not match most remote parts, mineral ingredients to deteriorate.
European or US standards. water can easily be bought.
Private hospitals, however, Directory
offer excellent facilities. Though
good medical care may be rare Emergency Numbers
to find in rural areas, in the Ambulance
larger cities you will never be far Tel 192.
from a decent private hospital.
In many big cities, local tourist Private Hospitals
offices and some good hotels
can provide a list of doctors Rio de Janeiro
Hospital Samaritano, Rua
who can speak English, French,
Bambina 98, Botafogo.
and German.
Tel (21) 3444 1000.
For medical emergencies in a ∑ hsamaritano.com.br
remote area, an air ambulance
service offers a pick-up within Copa d’Or, Rua Figueiredo de
24 hours of calling. However, it Magalhães 875, Copacabana.
is advisable to contact the travel A local drink seller on a Rio de Map 3 D1.
insurance company before Janeiro beach Tel (21) 2545 3600.
∑ copador.com.br
requesting this service.
Though fairly affordable by Sun protection Hospital Federal de Ipanema, Rua
international standards, private Visitors from the Northern Antônio Parreiras 67, Ipanema.
treatment in Brazil may turn out Hemisphere should take Map 2 C4.
to be expensive. Many doctors extra care with Brazil’s intense Tel (21) 3111 2303.
and hospitals do not accept tropical sun, especially for the São Paulo
travel-health insurance, and first few days in the country. Hospital Albert Einstein, Av Albert
insist on payment in cash. Brazil basks in almost year- Einstein 627–701, Morumbi.
round sunshine, making Tel (11) 2151 1233. For
adequate sun protection ambulance: (11) 3747 0200.
Health Precautions absolutely crucial. Avoid ∑ einstein.br
A visit to Brazil, by and large, exposure between 11am and Hospital Sírio-Libânes, Rua Dona
does not require special health 3pm and apply sunscreen to all Adma Jafet 91, Bela Vista.
precautions. Impure water and exposed parts of the body. Wear Map 4 F2.
contaminated food are usually sunblock (minimum SPF 30) Tel (11) 3394 0200.
the reasons for most diseases. and limit tanning to only a few ∑ hospitalsiriolibanes.org.br
Tap water in the main cities, hours. Pharmacies and grocery
Safety for Travelers

Brazil is known to have a higher crime rate than anywhere
in North America and Europe. However, in reality, the
kind of violence that affects travelers is mostly limited
to the bigger cities, and is usually restricted to thefts
of valuables such as cameras, credit cards, cell phones,
or cash. Such assaults are rare in the countryside and
smaller towns. While some parts of Brazil can truly be
regarded as violent and dangerous, travelers can be
assured of personal security by using common sense
and observing some very basic precautions.
A Guarda Municipal policewoman
accepted and can be patrolling on a bicycle, Rio City
used for purchases
in most hotels and even cigarettes. Instances
stores. Keep a few of drugging, or spiked drinks
small bills handy in are not uncommon in Brazil.
a pocket so that
when making small
purchases, the wallet Police
doesn’t have to Brazil has several different
be pulled out in types of police that travelers
a busy area. Public are likely to encounter. Known
transport is safe in to be the most efficient by far,
the daytime, but in the Polícia Federal (see p408)
the evenings taxis are responsible for passport
are a better option. control at airports and border
Local showing the way to visitors, Salvador If you get robbed, crossings. Dressed in plain
just hand over your clothes, they deal with visas
Personal Safety valuables, as robbers are often and their extensions.
The large cities, especially Rio armed with a gun or a knife. Dressed in gray uniforms
de Janeiro, São Paulo, and Streets and public places and caps, the Polícia Militar are
Salvador, are generally can be unsafe at times. A responsible for public safety
considered more prone to very common technique and can be seen patrolling the
violence than the rest of Brazil. is to distract the victim by streets, beaches, and highways.
Statistically, crime rates in these spraying something on their These policemen often carry
cities are significantly higher shoulder. An accomplice may out “blitzes” (traffic checks)
than in cities in Europe or the then offer to clean the mess, along major streets or roads.
US. However, much of the while the thief will make off These can appear a little
violent crime is confined to with your belongings. The best intimidating as the Polícia
poorer neighborhoods and and safest way is to politely Militar come out in full gear,
favelas in parts of the city turn down any such offer. carrying automatic weapons.
where travelers should not It is always best to exercise If you are driving a car, slow
venture on their own without a caution when someone down, turn on the interior light,
tour guide. The crime that unknown offers a drink, or and roll down the windows.
visitors are most likely to be
susceptible to is theft or
robbery. The most basic
precaution is not to carry
anything worth stealing and to
avoid empty beaches and
nearly empty streets after dark.
Avoid ostentatious behavior
such as walking around with
expensive equipment; instead
keep it in a plain bag.
When sightseeing, keep all
belongings in a bag that can
be placed in a money belt.
Never carry large amounts of
cash. Credit cards are widely A brightly painted tourist police station in Olinda
A few cities with a strong Directory

tourist presence, such as
Rio and Salvador, also have Police
Polícia de Turismo, or tourist Guarda Municipal
police, who offer assistance ∑ rio.rj.gov.br/web/gmrio
in case of any difficulty.
Unfortunately, many of Polícia Civil
them do not speak English. Tel 197.
A special Delegacia do Polícia Militar
Turista (tourist department) Tel 190.
is available for those who
require further help or wish Polícia de Turismo
RIO DE JANEIRO
to report a crime.
Av Afrânio de Melo Franco 159,
The state-controlled Polícia
Leblon. Map 1 B4.
Civil handle local laws and
Tel (21) 2332 2924.
investigate more serious Polícia Militar booth in São Paulo,
SALVADOR
crimes. When there is no responsible for traffic checks
Praça São Francisco 14,
tourist police post in the vicinity,
Pelourinho. Tel (71) 3322 1188.
thefts are reported to these to file a report. Missing credit SÃO PAULO
policemen. Rio City has an cards should be reported Rua Cantareira 390, Centro.
unarmed guard force, Guarda to the relevant company Map 2 D2. Tel (11) 3120 4417.
Municipal (Municipal Civil (see p414). If you have lost
Guards), to complement state or damaged your passport, Consulates
police patrolling of parks it is recommended that
and beaches.Polícia Federal car you contact your nearest Australia
consulate or embassy. Av Presidente Wilson 231, Centro,
Rio de Janeiro.
Reporting a Crime Map 5 E5. Tel (21) 3824 4624.
If you have been the Identification ∑ brazil.embassy.gov.au
victim of a crime, it can It is mandatory in Brazil to Alameda Santos 700,
be reported at the nearest carry some form of photo Jardim Paulista, São Paulo.
police station or tourist identification. Often you Tel (11) 2112 6200
police office. This should will be asked to show Canada
be done within 24 hours some form of ID when Av Atlântica 1130, 5th Floor,
of the crime. To obtain a entering an office building Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro.
report of the incident or or government agency, or Map 3 F1. Tel (21) 2453 3004.
theft for insurance purposes, sometimes even a museum Av Nações Unidas 12901,
insist that you receive a or library. To avoid carrying São Paulo. Tel (11) 5509 4321.
copy of the boletim de around a passport, keep ∑ brazil.gc.ca
ocorrência. There may be a photocopy, and carry
nobody at the police station some other form of less Ireland
who speaks English, so it may valuable ID such as a SHIS QL 12 Conjunto 5 Casa 9,
be useful to request a hotel student card, or a health Lago Sul, Brasília.
employee or tour guide to card that has your picture, Tel (61) 3248 8800.
accompany you if you need name, and date of birth. Avenida Paulista 2421, Centro,
São Paulo. Tel (11) 3898 7400
New Zealand
SHIS QI 09, Conjunto 16,
Casa 01, Brasília.
Tel (61) 3248 9900.
UK
Praia do Flamengo 284, Rio de
Janeiro. Tel (21) 2292 7117.
Rua Ferreira de Araújo 741,
Pinheiros, São Paulo.
Tel (11) 3094 2700.
USA
Av Presidente Wilson 147, Rio de
Janeiro. Map 5 E5.
Tel (21) 3823 2000.
Rua Henri Dunant 500, São Paulo.
Tel (11) 3250 5000.
Guarda Municipal car in Rio de Janeiro
Banking & Local Currency Directory

Brazil provides a range of banking facilities and money Credit Cards
exchange services. Except for the US dollar and euro, AmEx
foreign currencies are rarely accepted outside of major Tel 0800 761 1794.
tourist regions. Exchange rates for cash transactions are Diners Club Citibank
usually not very good, and the best rates can be obtained Tel 0800 701 2484.
on credit card or caixa automática (ATM) transactions. By far
MasterCard
the most convenient are credit cards (particularly Visa and Tel 0800 891 3294.
MasterCard), which are widely accepted in most estab
Visa
lishments and can be used to withdraw local currency (real), Tel 0800 891 3680.
giving a more favorable exchange rate. Traveler’s checks are
not widely accepted and can be difficult to cash. Banks
Banco do Brasil
Banking Hours Av Paulista 2163, São Paulo.
Map 4 E2. Tel (11) 4004 0001.
Bradesco has a number of
Rua Joana Angélica 124,
banks that are open from 9am
Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro.
to 5pm on all weekdays. Most
Map 2 A4. Tel (21) 3554 9700.
other banks, including Banco
∑ bb.com.br
do Brasil, are also open on
weekdays, but only from Bradesco
10am to 4pm. Hours for Av Paulista 949, São Paulo.
changing money are even more Map 4 E2. Tel (11) 4004 4722.
limited, usually falling between Av Nossa Senhora de
11am and 2pm. ATMs have Copacabana 583, Rio de Janeiro.
more flexible hours but are Map 3 E2. Tel (21) 3816 8100.
not always open 24 hours. ∑ bradesco.com.br
ATMs ATM (caixa automática) at a branch of It is also good to plan ahead on

The easiest way of getting cash Banco do Brasil weekends or statutory holidays
in big cities is by using ATMs when machines sometimes run
(caixa automática), which are HSBC, Citibank, Bradesco, and out of cash. Keep in mind, too,
widely found and accept Banco 24 Horas have reliable that some small towns and
foreign cards. Check with your networks that work with islands do not have ATMs.
bank prior to traveling to Brazil international cards.
whether your ATM card can be Bank machines are often
used internationally for cash updated and adjusted so other Credit Cards
withdrawals and that you have banks may join the network. For Credit cards are widely accepted
the appropriate PIN (numero de safety reasons, bank machines in Brazil. The most commonly
identificao). In addition to ATM are not always open 24 hours. used cards are MasterCard,
cards, most bank machines will ATMs may close at 8 or 10pm, Visa, and AmEx. Diners Club is
also give a cash advance on a or be programmed to dispense less widely used. Credit cards
credit card. Banco do Brasil, only a small amount of money. can be used in almost all stores,
hotels, and restaurants. Street
markets and kiosks, usually only
take cash. When you pay by
credit card the cashier will
usually ask “débito ou credito”
(debit or credit). It is important
to state “credito” as most
international credit cards do not
work as debit cards. Debit cards
are also widely accepted. Credit
cards with a PIN can also be
used to make cash withdrawals
from ATMs at banks. The service
fee is higher for using a credit
card instead of a regular ATM
card. It is a good idea to instruct
Branch of Banco do Brasil your bank that you will be using
your card in Brazil, so as to avoid card for major expenses incurred R$2 note is blue, featuring
any transaction problems at a at hotels and on excursions. a sea turtle. The purple R$5
later stage. Another option is to obtain a and the red R$10 have pictures
Very few banks other than a prepaid currency card and load of a heron and a macaw
handful in major cities, will cash it with Brazilian Reais before you respectively. The yellow R$20
traveler’s checks, and at those travel. Use it in Brazil like a debit notes feature the endangered
that do, there is a high fee and a card to withdraw money from mico-leão dourado (golden
long wait. Some hotels and ATMs, or to pay for goods at lion tamarin) monkey. The
some tour operators will most places. brown R$50 notes come
accept traveler’s checks, but the with a picture of a jaguar.
exchange is always unfavorable. R$100 bills, featuring the
American Express will cash Currency endangered dusky grouper
AmEx traveler’s checks for free, The currency of Brazil is the fish, are often impossible to
but they only have offices in a real (R$, plural reais). All bank break at small shops, so stock
few major cities in Brazil. It is notes have a print of a Brazilian up on change at drugstores
more convenient to use a credit animal on them. The smallest and grocery stores.
Banknotes
Brazilian reais bills come in denominations of
2, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100. Brazilian bank notes
are bright, with each denomination coming in
a different color.
2 reais
5 reais
10 reais
20 reais
50 reais
100 reais
Coins
Coins come in the following denomination:
5, 10, 25, 50 centavos and 1 real.
100 centavos make up 1 real.
5 centavos 10 centavos
c 25 centavos
c 50 centavos
c 1 real
Communications & Media However, inquire about roaming

fees to avoid nasty surprises on
Brazil has an efficient and well-developed communications your phone bill. Due to the size of
system. Cell phones are widely used, making Brazil’s one Brazil, most cell phone packages
of the world’s biggest networks, with more than 270 million are relevant to the city or state
it is issued in, so you may still
registered phones. Postal services, including registered be charged roaming fees when
post and express mail, are quite reliable. Most hotels using a Brazilian cell number – for
subscribe to a digital or satellite television service with example, for using a Rio cell
international channels. Although there are no foreign- number in São Paulo. Brazilians
language Brazilian newspapers, foreign magazines and who regularly visit different cities
in Brazil often have cell numbers
some newspapers are available in all major cities, mostly in
for each one.
the main airports, business districts, and tourist centers. The main cell operators in
Brazil are Claro (21), Oi (31), Tim
(41), and Vivo (15). It is always
region. Embratel is Brazil’s largest cheapest to use the código de
telecommunications company. If seleção de prestadora (CSP) of
using Embratel to call São Paulo, the network you are linked to
the number would look like this: when calling.
0-21-11-3455-3288. This can
be confusing because some
prestadora codes are the same Public Telephones
as some area codes – Embratel As in many countries, public
and Rio, for example. telephones (orelhôes, or “big
ears”) are diminishing in Brazil.
Pay phones do not take coins.
Cell Phones You must purchase a phone
Cell phones are common all over card (cartão telefonico), available
the country. Most tri-band GSM at newsstands, drugstores, and
phones will work in Brazil. post offices.
Public telephones, not as widespread in Coverage for 4G is available in
Brazil as they once were major cities, but in many other
places, and especially rural areas, Internet
Local & International there is 3G or 2G coverage. You Internet service is widely
Phone Calls can purchase a local SIM chip available in Brazil and it is the
Most telephone numbers in upon arrival and obtain a local world’s fourth largest country of
Brazil (fixed or cell) are now eight number. Most local cell operators internet users. If traveling with a
or nine digits. If you do come offer a very straightforward
across a seven-digit number package for international visitors, Dialing Codes
(or eight-digit cell), it is best to including for data. • A local call requires only the
confirm if it is still correct. All cell Check with your phone eight- or nine-digit number
phone numbers begin with a 9. company whether your phone of the land line or cell without
Local calls do not require a two- needs to be unlocked before the area code. Some key area
digit area code, whereas long- leaving home. If your service codes are: Belo Horizonte, 31;
distance calls do. All long-distance provider has a roaming Brasília, 61; Curitiba, 41;
calls (within Brazil and interna- agreement with Brazil, you can Fortaleza, 85; Manaus, 92;
tional) also require the use of a use your regular number. Natal, 84; Porto Alegre, 51;
long-distance service provider Recife, 81; Rio de Janeiro, 21;
(prestadora). The two-digit code Salvador, 71; São Paulo, 11.
of the prestadora needs to be • To make a long-distance call,
dialed before the area code or dial 0 or +, then the
country code for international prestadora code (CSP),
calls; there are different services followed by the area code,
and phone number.
for fixed and cell lines. In listings,
• To call abroad from Brazil,
long-distance numbers often dial 00, then the prestadora
look like this: 0-XX-11-3455- code, followed by the country
3288. The two-digit prestadora code, area code, and phone
number is inserted in place of the number.
“XX” and is known as the código • Contact Embratel at 0800
de seleção de prestadora (CSP). 703 2100 or 0800 703 2111
Customers have several to ask for collect calls or
options when choosing a service A woman on her cell phone in the Ipanema international calls.
provider, depending on the neighborhood of Rio de Janeiro
express overseas delivery, such well as a large number of

as DHL, FedEx, Skynet, and national and regional radio
World Courier. Delivery from networks, newspapers,
Brazil to the main cities and magazines, and websites. At
towns in the US or Europe hotels and in many houses,
normally takes 48 hours. visitors will have access to
hundreds of digital or satellite
channels that include inter-
Addresses national news services such
Most addresses are fairly straight- as CNN and the BBC. On the
forward, giving the street name Internet, you will be able to
first, followed by the number. access radio stations from
Landmark buildings or houses around the world.
in small towns may be listed as
The distinct blue and yellow colors of a s/n (sem número, or without Directory
post office in Rio de Janeiro number). Other abbreviations in
addresses include lj or loja Local & International
laptop, ask about the hotel’s (shop) and sl or sobreloja (first Phone Calls
Wi-Fi Internet access rates, floor or mezzanine). You should Embratel
although at more and more add the zip or postal code (CEP), ∑ embratel.com.br
hotels it is free. Cyber cafés, if you have it.
such as Cyber Copa Café in Cell Phones
Rio de Janeiro, are not as
widespread as they once were. Newspapers & Magazines Claro
There are free Wi-Fi hotspots Brazil does not have any English- ∑ claro.com.br
in some public areas in big cities language daily newspapers or Oi
such as Rio de Janeiro and magazines. The main Brazilian ∑ oi.com.br
São Paulo, including squares, dailies are, like in the US, regional,
Tim
shopping malls, and beaches. the best known being O Globo
∑ tim.com.br
Some cafés, restaurants, and (Rio de Janeiro) and the Folha
bookstores, such as FNAC de São Paulo (São Paulo). The Vivo
Centro Cultural and Icone Friday editions include a cultural ∑ vivo.com.br
Espaço Cultural in São Paulo and entertainment section
and Livraria da Travessa in Rio with detailed information on Internet
de Janeiro, have free Wi-Fi. concerts, plays, movies, and Cyber Copa Café
exhibitions. The bestselling Av Nossa Senhora de
weekly news magazines are Copacabana 1077, Rio de Janeiro.
Postal Services Època, Veja, and Isto É. In Rio de Map 2 C4. Tel (21) 2287 9403.
The Brazilian postal service is Janeiro, São Paulo, and other
quite efficient for registered large cities, the Veja (see p156) FNAC Centro Cultural
mail. Post offices (correios) are includes listings related to Praça do Omaguás 34, Pinheiros,
São Paulo. Tel (11) 3579 2000.
open from 9am to 5pm Monday cultural events.
to Friday. Large shopping centers Newspapers and magazines Icone Espaço Cultural
and airports will have branches are most commonly sold at a Rua Augusta 1415, São Paulo.
with longer opening hours, newsstand (banca
banca de jornal
jornal). Map 4 F1. Tel (11) 3288 9206.
including Saturdays. Regular del- Newsstands in Ipanema in Rio Livraria da Travessa
ivery service within Brazil takes and Praça de Republica in São Rua Visconde de Pirajá 572,
two to four days, and overseas Paulo have a good range of Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro.
six to 12 days. For guaranteed or international magazines, as do Map 2 4A Tel (21) 3205 9002
registered delivery, the correios the better bookstores, especially
offer the excellent SEDEX in major shopping centers. Postal Services
(domestic Brazilian express mail)
service, which functions like a Correios
courier service. For international Television & Radio ∑ correios.com.br
mail, there is SEDEX Mundi and Brazil is well served when it DHL
Express Mail Service (EMS). The comes to both television and ∑ dhl.com.br
correios has a good website, radio, although most of the
FedEx
parts of which are in English, local programming will be in ∑ fedex.com/br
which allows you to check Portuguese, but this can add
addresses, postal codes (known to the flavor of a local football Skynet
as CEP), locate post office match or sporting event. The ∑ skynetsao.com
branches, or track deliveries. media giant in Brazil is Globo. World Courier
In larger cities, there are also It is responsible for the country’s ∑ worldcourier.com
several international couriers for most popular TV network, as
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Most travelers arrive in Brazil by plane. There airport or in Rio de Janeiro. There are a few
are regular scheduled flights from Europe, regular flights to Salvador, Recife, Brasilia,
North and South America, and Africa. Belo Horizonte, and Fortaleza. However,
Travelers from Asia will most likely have to most direct flights to these and other
connect elsewhere before continuing to destinations in the Northeast, such as Natal,
Brazil. Several airlines offer stopovers to or are European charter flights. Air travel
from Brazil at no extra cost. Almost all direct within Brazil is efficient, and most remote
flights land at São Paulo’s international locations are accessible by plane.
Arriving by Air
Most direct international flights
land either in Rio de Janeiro
or São Paulo, but there are also
flights into other major cities,
such as Brasília, Manaus, Belo
Horizonte, Recife, and Salvador.
Convenient connections are
available for other domestic
destinations. Travelers will clear
customs at the airport where
they first enter Brazil.
International Airlines Modern, well-equipped Belém International Airport

Most major European and North
and South American airlines with Air Europa, and from stay in Brazil and will be checked
operate regularly scheduled Miami with American Airlines. on departure. Loss of the card
flights to Brazil. Delta, American Gol, Brazil’s second-largest air- may result in a major hassle and
Airlines, Continental Airlines, line, flies internationally to Latin possibly a fine (see p408). Officials
KLM, Lufthansa, Air France, American destinations only. will also stamp your passport,
British Airways, Alitalia, Iberia, and in case they are not granting
Tap, and others offer nonstop you the usual 90-day stay in
flights to Rio de Janeiro and On Arrival Brazil, the number of days will be
São Paulo. The largest Brazilian All tourists must fill out a cartao written beneath the word Prazo
airline, LATAM, has regular flights de entrada/saida (entry/exit on the stamp in your passport.
to Europe and the USA. There card). Immigration officials will For an extension of the 90-day
are also nonstop flights to keep half and return the other to entry stamp, contact the Polícia
Salvador de Bahia from Madrid you. This card serves as proof of Federal (see p408).
A Gol aircraft at the Deputado Luíz E. Magalhães International Airport, Salvador

T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  419
Directory
International Airlines
Air Europa
∑ aireuropa.com
American Airlines
Tel 3004 5000 .
∑ aa.com
Gol
Tel 0300 115 2121.
∑ voegol.com.br
Taxis waiting outside Congonhas Airport, São Paulo City LATAM

Tel 0300 570 5700.
Customs Requirements & Taxis, too, are easily available at ∑ latam.com
Duty Free a fixed price. Salvador’s inter-
Airport Shuttles
All international travelers are national airport is linked to the
allowed to purchase up to city center by an hourly shuttle Real Auto Bus
US$500 at the Brazilian duty-free express bus service. Tel 0800 886 1000.
shop in the arrival hall. Purchases ∑ realautoonibus.com.br
must be made prior to exiting the
customs area. Visitors may bring Travel Agencies & Tour Operators
items for their personal use, inclu- Packages
ding electronics. Gadgets, such as European residents have access Brazil Nuts
1660 Trade Center Way, Suite 1,
cameras or laptops, may need to to attractive package deals to
Naples, FL 34109, USA.
be registered upon arrival to Northeast Brazil. Packages
Tel +1 239 963 4282.
ensure that they will be taken out typically include hotel and airfare
∑ brazilnuts.com
of the country again. Gifts up to a to a popular destination such as
value of US$500 can be brought Fortaleza, Natal, or Recife. Though Brol
in without additional duties; affordable, these package tours 2665 South Bayshore Drive, Suite
Brazilian duty-free purchases do not offer a lot of flexibility. 445, Miami, FL 33133, USA.
are not included in this amount. Independent travelers who wish Tel +1 305 379 0005.
to visit several destinations, must ∑ brol.com
book their own airfare and Journey Latin America
Getting from Airports hotels. Confirm hotel prices with 401 King St, London W6 9NJ, UK.
In Rio City, taxis can be a rip-off. travel operators, as Brazilian Tel +44 020 3811 3988.
Either take a set-price yellow cab hotels often reserve their best ∑ journeylatinamerica.co.uk
from Rio airport or keep an eye prices for agencies.
on the taximeter. You could also A number of travel agencies,
take the Real Auto Bus, which such as Brazil Nuts, offer agency, offers tailor-made tours
runs an efficient half-hourly bus customized tours or programs, across Brazil. Based in Miami,
service. São Paulo City offers including activities for seniors, Brol (BR Online Travel) is the first
excellent air-conditioned shuttles youths, gay travelers, or for American online travel company
known as the “Airport Service.” those interested in cultural to specialize in Brazil. It sells air
These run every 30 minutes, and activities. Journey Latin passes for multiple flights
depart from the arrivals terminal. America, a UK-based travel around Brazil or South America.
Distance to City Average Taxi Average Journey

Airport Information
Center Fare Time
Internacional de São Paulo City 40–120 minutes
(11) 2445 2945 US$50
Guarulhos 17 miles (28 km) (in rush hour)
International Airport Rio de Janeiro City 40–90 minutes
(21) 3004 6050 US$40
Tom Jobim 12 miles (20 km) (in rush hour)
Deputado Luíz E. Salvador 17 miles
(71) 3204 1010 US$55 40 minutes
Magalhães (28 km)
Internacional dos Recife 11 miles
(81) 3322 4188 US$30 20 minutes
Guararapes (18 km)
Manaus 10 miles
Eduardo Gomes (92) 3652 1210 US$40 25 minutes
(16 km)
Internacional Porto Alegre 4 miles
(51) 3358 2000 US$15 15 minutes
Salgado Filho (6 km)
Domestic Air Travel airline’s website for more

detailed information and the
The sheer size of Brazil makes air travel the preferred mode terms and conditions.
of transportation. The country has an excellent network of
airlines and most airports have been modernized. Air travel is High Season
an important means of transportation to reach remote areas High season for domestic air
in Amazônia and the interior of Brazil. All towns in the country travel corresponds with the
have at least an airstrip, and all cities have an airport, usually major holidays and vacation
some distance from the city, or located fairly centrally, as in periods in Brazil. The peak season
the case with São Paulo City and Rio City. is in the Brazilian summer, from
the week of Christmas until
Carnaval in mid-February or
early March. The month of July
is also peak season when schools
and universities are off on their
winter break. Other popular
periods are Easter, Corpus
Christi, and Independence
Day (September 7).
LATAM offers significant
discounts for those who take
night flights or fly at off-peak
hours. As unpleasant as depar-
tures and arrivals in the wee
hours may be, the savings can
be significant. It is also advisable
to book well ahead of time when
planning to take flights Friday
evening or Monday morning
Gol Linhas Aereas Inteligentes aircraft taxi at Congonhas Airport, São Paulo between major cities.
Domestic Airlines Airpass
Domestic air travel within Brazil Nonresidents of Brazil who Air Taxi
is a well-organized and efficient arrive on an international flight Many parts of Brazil, and
form of transportation. There are entitled to buy an airpass particularly Amazônia, feature
are currently two major airlines with LATAM, making long- air taxi companies. Air taxis,
that fly both international distance flights within Brazil known locally as teco-tecos,
and domestic routes – LATAM quite affordable. A LATAM are not the most reliable form
and Gol. Domestic bargain Pass is based on a frequent flyer of transportation. Before
airlines include Avianca Brazil, system, which allocates reward taking one, be aware that the
Azul, Gol, and Trip. The nation’s kilometers for internal flights. airstrips are often dangerous.
largest airline, LATAM operates Passengers can also earn These small planes routinely
flights between São Paulo and kilometers by staying at hotels, fly overloaded, and are very
Mato Grosso do Sul and has renting cars and using a often in questionable condition.
built up a wide and inexpensive US Bank LATAM Pass card. There are no checks made on
network throughout the Reward kilometers can also be the qualifications of pilots, so
Amazon region. A useful accumulated on oneworld and taking an air taxi is at the
website for comparing prices associated airlines. Check the traveler’s own risk.
is decolar.com.
Checking In
Check-in for domestic flights
is normally 60 minutes prior
to departure. A valid ID
is required, and foreigners
are required to show their
passport upon check-in. Make
sure to keep the luggage claim
tags handy upon arrival, as
airport staff will check for
those when exiting the
baggage claim area. Teco-teco (air taxi) in the Amazon region
DIRECTORY
Domestic Airlines
Avianca Brazil
Tel 0800 286 6543.
∑ avianca.com.br
Azul
Tel 0800 887 1118
∑ voeazul.com.br
Gol
Tel 0300 115 2121.
∑ voegol.com.br
An Avianca flight taking off at Curitiba Airport LATAM

Tel 0300 570 5700.
Reservations & as a no-show, and all your
Cancellations ∑ latam.com
other airpass reservations will
Flights tend to be booked in also be canceled. Similarly, Trip
advance so book your tickets if you miss a flight, reconfirm Tel 0800 887 1118.
as far ahead as possible. The all onward flights on your ∑ voetrip.com.br
only exception to this is the airpass. If you don’t, all your
Rio–São Paulo shuttle, where other flights will be canceled. Domestic Airports
you can purchase tickets on
the spot. Flights at the Aeroporto de
beginning and end of working Domestic Airports Congonhas
days and on weekends are Along with domestic Tel (11) 5090 9000.
usually quite crowded. airports, such as Aeroporto
Confirm onward flights a de Congonhas in São Paulo, Aeroporto Santos
day or two in advance. This can and Aeroporto Santos Dumont
be done over the phone, as Dumont in Rio de Janeiro, Tel (21) 3814 7070.
most airlines have English- there are small domestic
speaking staff. airports all over Brazil,
If you have an airpass and including Recife, Belo and Santos Dumont airports
you happen to change your Horizonte, Cuiabá, Campo are close to the commercial
flight, remember to cancel the Grande, Curitiba, Fernando de areas. The shuttle service
original flight. If you don’t do Noronha, Florianópolis, and from Congonhas Airport to the
so, the computer will flag you Fortaleza. Both Congonhas city center takes 50 minutes.
Rio de Janeiro Flight Duration Chart

1:15 = Duration in hours:minutes
0:45 São Paulo
2:30 1:00 Florianópolis GETTING AROUND

Due to the size and distances across Brazil,
BrasÍlia the fastest and easiest way to travel around
1:30 1:35 2:17
the country is by air. All big cities, smaller
towns, and even more remote areas across
3:00 2:55 6:00 2:45 Manaus
the country have airports, or at least an
airstrip of some sort. Domestic flights are
3:35 5:25 4:40 2:20 1:00 Belém available to and from just about any major
city across Brazil.
4:00 5:45 5:25 2:27 4:20 1:00 São Luís
3:00 2:30 0:55 2:30 4:25 2:50 1:10 Fortaleza
2:45 3:00 6:18 2:20 7:30 4:20 2:45 1:10 Recife
1:50 0:45 5:10 1:55 7:30 7:45 4:35 1:40 1:10 Salvador
0:50 1:00 3:00 1:10 7:00 5:00 4:45 4:00 3:55 1:35 Belo Horizonte
Bus & Car Travel air-conditioned 4WDs. Rental

agreements can be with full or
Intercity bus travel is well organized and most routes offer partial insurance, with unlimited
efficient and comfortable express services. Driving a car can driving or with a per-kilometer
be a challenge in Brazil due to distances and the often poor charge. In terms of price, a four-
door mid-size sedan with air
quality of many public roads. Brazil possesses a total of
conditioning, unlimited driving,
932,000 miles (1.5 million km) of federal, state, and local and full insurance will cost
roads but only 49,000 miles (79,000 km) are paved and in about R$150 (US$83) per day in
decent condition. Though car rentals are widely available, a larger city. In smaller towns
given the distances and poor road quality, a car is not really and remote areas, prices go up
advisable for longer trips, but it can be a convenient way to by 50 to 100 percent. It is a
good idea to check with locals
explore attractions close to the cities. about the condition of the
roads you plan on taking.
Gas Stations
Cars in Brazil run on either
gasoline or alcohol, but many
new models run on both.
Service stations selling gasoline
are more common, especially in
remote areas. On long-distance
road trips, service stations may
be few and far between, so
ensure that the car is in good
condition. Always be well
Busy rodoviá
ária (central bus terminal) in São Paulo
rodoviária prepared with some cash, water,
enough car fluids, a good spare
Buses Car Rentals tire with tools, and a flashlight.
Brazil has an excellent network All major cities and most
of long-distance buses which smaller cities and towns offer
makes traveling around the car rental services, such as Driving in Towns
country easy and economical. Avis and Localiza. Car rental Driving in Brazilian towns
Intercity buses leave from a offices, known as locadoras, and cities can sometimes be
central station, called a rodoviá
rodov ria, can be found at every airport a frustrating experience. Any
usually located on the outskirts and in most towns. Foreigners time after about 9pm, especially
of the city. Buses are operated need to show a valid driver’s in Rio and São Paulo, drivers
by numerous private companies, license from their home begin to treat red lights as
but prices are standardized, country, state, or province, their strictly optional. Be especially
and very reasonable. passport, and a major credit alert at intersections at night
Several categories of buses card. It is also a good idea to (even as a pedestrian). Often
operate on longer routes. Regular carry an International Driver’s the driver running the red light
buses (ônibus comum) some- Permit (IDP). A wide variety of won’t even slow down, because
times do not have air-con- cars are available in Brazil, from of the risk of robberies at
ditioning, so check beforehand. small economy models with no isolated intersections. On
Comum com ar are regular air conditioning, to large highways and secondary roads,
buses with air-conditioning.
The executivo bus is more
comfortable, its chairs wider
and equipped with footrests.
The best buses for overnight
trips are known as semi-leito or
leito. Semi-leito have seats that
recline almost horizontally and
have large footrests. Leito buses
offer a fully horizontal bed-like
seat. Both normally offer onboard
refreshments, blankets, and
pillows. Nearly all buses have
onboard bathrooms. Buy your
tickets from the rodoviária ahead
of time, especially on holidays. Posto de Gasolina (gas station) in Rio de Janeiro
drivers tend to be fearless bus driving next to you to stay Directory

overtaking other vehicles, even in its lane. Drivers switch lanes
when they can’t see constantly, for no apparent Car Rentals
what’s around the bend. reason, normally
Parking, especially in without signaling. Avis
cities, can be a bit tricky However, the use of Tel 0800 725 2847.
due to security and photo radar and regular ∑ avis.com.br
space constraints. It is alcohol checks have
worth paying extra for a improved driving Localiza
hotel with a lock-up conditions. Seatbelt Tel 0800 979 2000.
garage facility. Do not laws are also rigorously
∑ localiza.com
leave valuables in the enforced. Note that in
car. It is also worth larger cities such as São
paying a few reais to self- Paulo, Rio, and Salvador, Emergency
appointed “guards” who Parking sign traffic is still very chaotic. In
may approach you to watch case of an emergency, it is Highway Police
over your car. Consult a local best to call the Polícia Militar (see Tel 191 (Road Emergencies).
regarding how much to tip. pp412–13) or Highway Police
(Polícia Rodoviária).
in southern states such as
Rules of the Road Rio and São Paulo are much
Officially, the rules of the road are Road Network better than in northeastern
much the same as in Continental Brazil’s intercity road network or Amazônian states such as
Europe or the United States. is made up of state and federal Bahia or Rondônia. Even in the
Drive on the right side of the highways. Federal highways South, roads in bad condition
road; unlike the USA, right turns are denoted by the initials BR are not uncommon.
on red lights are not allowed. followed by the number of the Traveling by night is
Roundabouts are common highway (BR-163). State roads best avoided. With very
only in Brasília. The right of way is are indicated by the state initials few exceptions, highways in
always with the car already in the (RJ for Rio de Janeiro, PA for Brazil are poorly lit, and com-
roundabout, or to the left. On Pará, and so on) followed by pletely lacking in reflective
highways, keep headlights on the highway number (PA-150). paint, reflective signage, and
or risk being fined Toll roads have become more the roadside reflectors that
However, it is the application common. Most are run by show the edge of the road.
of these rules – or lack thereof – private companies. They are The best source of national
that sets Brazil apart. Most usually well maintained and road maps can be found on the
Brazilians are aggressive and offer roadside assistance. Viagem website (viajeaqui.abril.
impatient drivers. They tend Most other state and federal com.br), which gives detailed
to drive fast, overtake often, highways are undivided two- routes, distances, and traffic
either on the right or left, lane blacktops, with occasional information for Brazil and the
and when they cannot, they passing lanes. Care is required rest of South America, as
hang impatiently on your back when driving on these roads. well as other useful travel
bumper. Do not expect the large Generally speaking, the roads tips and features.
Road sign meaning “slow down” on a highway near Goiás

Train & Boat Travel in Brazil

Train travel is not a common mode of transportation in Brazil.
While large parts of the country have never seen train tracks,
in other areas, many routes have been deactivated in favor of
roads. Today, the few remaining routes are of more interest to
train aficionados, and are often of great scenic beauty. In
some parts of Brazil, boat travel is still the only mode of
transportation. With few roads connecting the major cities,
particularly in the Amazon and along the northern coast,
locals depend entirely on boats to get around. On the Rio
Paraguay, on the western edge of the Pantanal, boats are
used for multiday fishing charters.
short historic routes. Steam The interior of a Maria Fumaça steam

locomotive trains, lovingly locomotive train
called Maria Fumaça, or
“Smoking Mary,” run on these Boat Travel
routes. One of the journeys In many parts of Brazil, boats
this unique steam engine makes are a vital form of transport.
is a regular 7-mile (12-km) run The network is extensive, and
on weekends between São services are regular, although
João del Rei and Tiradentes the facilities largely depend
(see p136), historic towns in on the type of boat chosen
Minas Gerais. An appealing for traveling.
short trip is offered along the In the Amazon, rivers are
route between the beautiful, still the major highways, and
historic mining town of Ouro old-style wooden riverboats
Preto, one of Brazil’s best- are an important part of the
preserved colonial towns, and transportation system. The most
Mariana, also in Minas. Even common and popular route
Trains waiting at the Luz railroad station in though the towns are only runs between Manaus and
São Paulo 7 miles (12 km) apart, the route Belém. The journey takes four
buzzes with history, as gold days downstream and five days
Train Travel miners and gem hunters in upstream. On this route, there
Although Brazil does not have the days of the gold rush used are also several larger and more
a large train network, there are to travel through these hills. modern boats, which feature
a few specific routes that can Contact the Estação Ferroviária air-conditioned cabins and
be useful for travelers and are for further details. even enclosed air-conditioned
good for a scenic ride. The Another spectacular route hammock spaces. Continuing
Minas–Vitória train journey is is the Curitiba–Paranaguá train right up to Tefé, AJATO runs
an excellent day trip, and ride through the Atlantic rain- a speedboat service every
perfect for those traveling forest of the Serra do Mar. Wednesday and Saturday,
between the cities of Belo The most unforgettable stretch with airplane-style seating.
Horizonte, in the heartland of is between Curitiba and On most other routes, the
Minas Gerais, and Vitória on Morretes (see p341). For boats are the older, smaller
the Espírito Santo coast. information, contact the traditional type, with small
The quickest and most Curitiba Ticket Office. wooden cabins, and two open
comfortable way to travel
between São Luís and the
interior of Pará, in Northern
Brazil, is the São Luís Carajás
railroad. In the state of Amapá,
also in Northern Brazil, a
passenger and cargo train runs
from the port of Santana, 124
miles (200 km) inland, to the
former mining town of Serra
de Navio. Its passenger cars,
though old and in need of
maintenance, are still functional.
Brazil offers a few charming, A picturesque view of one of the Maria Fumaça steam trains
Directory
Train Travel
Curitiba Ticket Office
Tel (41) 3888 3488.
∑ serraverdeexpress.com.br
Estação Ferroviária
Praça Cesário Alvim 102, barra,
Ouro Preto. Tel (31) 3551 7310.
∑ tremdavale.org
Boat Travel
AJATO
Av. Lourenço Braga, Centro,
Cruise ship Iberostar moored on the Manaus harbor Manaus
Cruise Travel Tel (92) 3622 6047.
decks – upper and lower –
where passengers sling their A very leisurely way to travel Amazonastur
hammocks. Meals and water the Brazilian coast is on board Tel (92) 3182 6250.
are provided. a cruise ship. Several companies ∑ amazonastur.am.gov.br
Boats of the old style ply offer three- to five-day cruises, Viverde
dozens of routes throughout most typically between Santos, Rua das Guariúbas 47, Manaus
the Amazon basin. The most Rio de Janeiro as far as Salvador, Tel (92) 3248 9988.
common routes run between or other northeastern cities. ∑ viverde.com.br
Manaus and Porto Velho, Another route starts in Recife
Manaus, Tabatinga, and São and travels to Fernando de Cruise Travel
Gabriel de Cachoeira, near the Noronha. There is now also
borders of Peru and Columbia, a regular cruise ship, the Amazon Clipper Cruises
respectively, and Manaus and Iberostar Grand Amazon, that Tel (92) 3656 1246.
Santarem, halfway to Belém. departs from Manaus on three- ∑ amazonclipper.com.br
The Manaus–Santarem route and four-day cruises on the Iberostar Grand Amazon
also has a high-speed Amazon. The old-style Amazon Tel (92) 2126 9927.
catamaran which makes the Clipper Cruises can be excel- ∑ iberostar.com.br
journey in a single day. Those lent for a tour of the Rio Negro.
more keen on tours than
transportation can go for one
of the comfortable boats for
charter in Manaus, such as
Viverde, that take passengers
on a personal exploration of the
Amazon River. For information
on buying tickets in advance,
contact Amazonastur, the state
tourism agency.
The Rio Paraguay on the
western edge of the Pantanal
has a large fleet of boats, most
of which are outfitted for multi-
day sportfishing cruises. These
boats depart from both
Corumbá in Mato Grosso do Sul
and Caceres in Mato Grosso.
On the Northeast coast, an
absence of roads connecting
the Maranhão and Piauí coast
makes boat travel the only
alternative to long detours
inland. The most scenic option
is to travel from Parnaíba in Piauí
through the islands and inlets
of the Delta da Parnaíba to
Tutóia, one of the gateways
to the Lençóis Maranhenses. Yachts at anchor near Ubatuba beach, São Paulo state
Getting around Brazilian Towns

Public transportation in Brazil varies greatly from city to city
and region to region. Large cities such as São Paulo and Rio
de Janeiro have modern metro systems that offer quick access
to many parts of the city and decent bus systems. However,
in most cities and towns, the main mode of transportation
is the bus and its variations, such as minivans and minibuses.
Taxis are plentiful and quite affordable. In very small
communities where there is little in the way of regular
public transportation, people often use motorcycle taxis
(moto-taxis). It is a cheap and fast one-person ride.
Taxis & Moto-Taxis Moto-taxi stand, and drivers, in Camamu

Taxis are affordable and a quick town, Bahia
mode of transportation. Prices
generally run 50 to 70 percent who don’t speak Portuguese
lower than in Europe or North and aren’t familiar with Brazil.
America. Most taxis work on the In most cities, taxis can be
meter. When starting the ride, hailed on the street, at numerous
make sure that the meter is taxi stands, or booked via
cleared and shows “tariff 1” except mobile apps. Renting a taxi for
from 11pm to 6am, Sundays, the day is an inexpensive
and in December when “2” is alternative to renting a car. The
permitted. Drivers sometimes price is negotiated with the
“forget” to start the meter and driver. Taxis in small towns do
end up charging a flat rate. not have meters, so it is best to
The only taxis allowed to agree upon a price in advance.
Visitors exploring the town of Búzios charge a flat rate are radio taxis Another option in smaller
on foot or cooperatives at airports, bus towns is the moto-taxi, or
stations, or other specific motorcycle-taxi. The driver carries
On Foot locations. The price will be set an extra helmet, and the passen-
Visitors to Brazil often seem before the passenger gets in. ger just hops on the back and
preoccupied with street crime. Rates are typically 30 to 40 rides pillion after fixing a price.
What they should really worry percent higher than regular
about is traffic. Pedestrians get metered taxis, but you know
little or no respect. It is safest what the final price will be. Metro
to assume that cars have the Although these prepaid taxis are The metro is the safest form of
absolute right of way not a bargain, they may be good public transport in Rio and São
everywhere at all times. Even value when taking a taxi from Paulo. Both cities have metro
when the pedestrian has the the international airports in Rio systems that are very convenient
right of way, such as when de Janeiro and São Paulo (see for visitors, as they offer reliable
crossing with a green light, p419), where taxi drivers have transportation to a number of
extreme care should be developed the unfortunate habit interesting sites. It is much easier
exercised at all times. of taking advantage of tourists and faster to take the metro to
After dark, or when traffic
is light, or when police are
absent, cars tend to run red
lights. Also, when making a
right turn, cars rarely give
preference to pedestrians trying
to cross. Pedestrians should
also be aware of bikes or motor-
cycles that may go down the
wrong way on a one-way street.
Always look both left and right.
Motorcyclists often weave
in and out between the cars
at high speeds. Be very
careful when walking in
between stationary or slow-
moving traffic. Yellow Rio taxis, plentiful and relatively inexpensive
Passengers waiting to board the bus at a city bus stand in Paraná
the stop closest to your midnight every day, and is clean, center will go to Copacabana.
destination and then take a taxi, efficient, and safer than the buses. Keep in mind that buses are
rather than figure out a compli For both systems, oneway often crowded, and get stuck in
cated and often slow bus system. (unitário), roundtrip (duplo), or terrible timeconsuming traffic
In Rio de Janeiro, the metro tenride (múltiplo) tickets are snarls. They are also often the
runs from 5am to midnight Mon available. However, no discounts sites of many of the city’s rob
day through Saturday, and from are offered for multipleride beries. To avoid pickpockets, try
7am to 11pm on Sundays and hol tickets. Transfers between lines to sit at the front of the bus and
idays. During Carnaval, it runs are allowed. Free metro maps to stay away from windows.
nonstop for the five days of the are available at most ticket In São Paulo, a couple of the
festival. Special return tickets are booths of both metro systems. main bus transfer points are at
required from Copacabana on Praça da Republica and the busy
New Year’s Eve. The metro has Terminal Bandeira, where it is
two main lines, both of which are Buses also possible to catch different
clean and safe, even in the eve Buses are plentiful in the big buses to faroff destinations
nings. Line 1 from Gal Osório to cities. Most buses list their desti within the city.
Uruguai has 20 stops. The line nation in large letters on their Tickets are sold on the bus by a
splits at Central, with one line front window, while another ticketseller, who sits at a turn
continuing west, while Line 2 sign with smaller lettering lists stile, or by the driver. Keep small
goes north to São Cristóvão and key landmarks along the route. change handy. Brazilian bus
beyond. Line 4, inaugurated in Most lines in Rio and São Paulo drivers can drive fast, so hold on
2015, runs along the coastline run 24 hours a day, but with at all times, especially when
from Gal Osório to Barra through fewer circulating in the middle standing. It is safer to take buses
Ipanema, Leblon, and São of the night. In Rio, most buses in the daytime. In the evenings, it
Conrado. The stops of most going from the south to the is advisable to take taxis.
interest to visitors are down
town and along the southern
beach neighborhoods, as well
as the first few stops along the
northern line to the Maracanã
Stadium and Quinta da Boã Vista.
Rio’s metro now also offers a
series of integrated metrobus
routes, which offer connections
on airconditioned buses to many
of the city’s attractions that are off
the metro system, such as Santa
Teresa, Sugar Loaf, and Ipanema.
Passengers must ask for a special
integrated ticket (integração) at
the time of purchase.
São Paulo’s metro system
covers quite a large part of the
city. It runs from 4:40am to São Paulo metro arriving in the Barra Funda station
428  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold type refer to Amaralina 199 Athayde, Mestre (Manuel da
main entries Amazon river 263, 269, 281 Costa) 34
Encontro das Aguas 289 Igreja da São Francisco de Assis
90 Mile Beach 448 Pororoca wave 279 (Ouro Preto) 131, 132
505 (Sydney) 146, 147 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and Mariana 133
Rondônia 281–93 Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo)
A hotels 378–9 146
Manaus 284–9 Ouro Preto 130
A Batalha do Avaí (Américo) 78 map 282–3 Atlantic coastal forest see Mata
A Cruz Caida (Cravo) 187 restaurants 394–5 Atlântica
Abismo Anhumas 327 Amazônia 15, 26, 276–7 ATMs 414
Abraão 107 The Amazon ecosystem Autumn in Brazil 46
Acre see Amazonas, Roraima, Acre 264–5 Avenida Paulista (São Paulo) 13,
and Rondônia boat travel 424–5 148
Addresses 417 excursions from Manaus Azoreans 332
Afonso de Sousa, Martim 165, 288–91 Azul, Lagoa 202, 245
173 history 51 Azulejos (tiles)
Afro-Brazilian culture 180–81 The people of Amazônia Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
Museu Afro-Brasileiro (Salvador) 266–7 (Belo Horizonte) 129
190, 192 The rubber story in Brazil 278 Salvador 188, 195
religions 39 Transamazônica 62, 63, 272
Agostinho de Piedade, Frei 34, 146 wildlife 28 B
Air travel 418–21 Ambulances 411 Bahia 185–211
air taxis 420 Américo, Pedro 152, 308 capoeira 203
airpass 420 A Batalha do Avaí 78 hotels 374–5
domestic air travel 420–21 Anavilhanas, Ilhas de 288–9 Linha Verde 211
international travel 418–19 Anchieta, José 35, 139 map 186–7
Akihito, Emperor of Japan 149 Anchieta, Padre 142, 146 Parque Nacional de Chapada
Alagoas see Sergipe, Alagoas and Andrade, Mário de 35 Diamantina 208–9
Pernambuco Andrade, Oswald de 35 Salvador 188–99
Alcântara 249, 258–9 Angra dos Reis 14, 114 restaurants 391–2
festivals 46 festivals 45 Baía de Castelhanos 169
Alcohol 383 hotels 372 Baía de Guanabara 92
Aleijadinho 32, 34, 76, 135 Antônio Prado 361 Baía do Sueste 228
Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Antropofagismo movement 34, 35 Baianas 31
Matosinhos 134 Aparados da Serra, Parque Nacional Balaiada Rebellion (1838–41)
Igreja da São Francisco de Assis dos 353, 354, 362 56
(Ouro Preto) 132 Apart-hotels 367 Bananal, Ilha do 297, 303, 315
Mariana 133 Aquariums Bandeira, Manuel 35
Matriz de Santo Antônio Aquário de Santos 173 Banking 414–15
(Tiradentes) 136 Aquário de Ubatuba 168 Banknotes 415
Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo) Aquário Natural Baia Bonita Barbosa de Oliveira, Rui 76
146 (Bonito) 327 Museu Casa de Rui Barbosa (Rio
Ouro Preto 130 Oceanário (Aracaju) 216 de Janeiro) 85
portrait of 131 Aracaju 216 Bardot, Brigitte 107, 120
Alencar, José de 246, 247 festivals 45 Baroque architecture 32
Alfândega (Manaus) 284 hotels 375 Barra do Itariri 211
Algodoal 274 restaurants 392 Barra Grande 202
All Souls’ Day 47 Aracati 244 Barra da Lagoa 351
Almeida, José Ferraz de Júnior Araguaia, Rio 315 Barra Shopping Center 14,
34 Araruama, Lake 121 90
Alta Floresta 323 Araujo, José Soares de 128 Barra de Superagui 343
hotels 379 Architecture 32–3 Barra da Tijuca (Rio de Janeiro) 14,
Alter do Chão 278 Arco de Telles (Rio de Janeiro) 90–91
Amado, Jorge 25, 35, 204 Street-by-Street map 74 hotels 370
Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado Arcos da Lapa (Rio de Janeiro) map 90
(Salvador) 191, 192 78 restaurants 386
Ilhéus 204 Areia Branca 243 Barreado 343
Amapá see Pará and Amapá Areia Vermelha, Ilha de (João Barreirinhas
Amaral, Cláudio Gurgel do 79 Pessoa) 235 hotels 377
Amaral, Crispim do 286 Argentina Barreta 241
Amaral, Tarsila do 34, 35 Foz do Iguaçu 344, 345, 347 Barreto, Afonso Lima 35
Estação Pinacoteca (São Paulo) Arraial do Cabo 121 Barretos
146 Art see Museums and galleries festivals 47
Estrada de Ferro Central do Brasil Artists 34 Bars 382, 401
152 Arts and crafts see Crafts Rio de Janeiro 97, 99
Museu de Arte Contemporânea Ashaninka people 267 Basílica de Nossa Senhora da
(São Paulo) 152 Atalaia 216 Asunção (Mariana) 133
GENERAL INDEX  429
Basílica de Nossa Senhora de Nazaré Biking 403, 405 Brecheret, Victor 34

(Belém) 273 Bill, Max 33 Monumento às Bandeiras 150
Basílica de São Pedro dos Clérigos Birds 28–9, 402, 405 Museu de Arte Contemporânea
(Mariana) 133 Chapada dos Guimarães 323 (São Paulo) 152
Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Mata Atlântica 113 Museu de Arte de São Paulo 147
Matosinhos (Congonhas) 134–5 Pantanal 319 Brendan, St 53
Batuque 39 Parque das Aves (Iguaçu) 15, 346 Brennand, Francisco 223
Beaches see also Wildlife Breu, Ilha do 112
Aracaju 216 Biribiri 128 Brito, Francisco Xavier de 34
Brazilian beach culture 42–3 Blumenau Basílica de Nossa Senhora da
Búzios 120–21 festivals 44 Assunção (Mariana) 133
Cananéia 175 Boa Vista 262, 281, 292 Igreja de São Francisco da
Copacabana 12, 71, 82 hotels 379 Penitência (Rio de Janeiro) 76
Costa do Sol 120–21 restaurants 394 Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar
Fortaleza 247 Boats 424–5 (Ouro Preto) 132
Grumari 91 cruises 425 Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo)
Guarapari 122 Ilhabela Sailing Week 47 146
Guarujá 169 Boff, Leonardo 38 Brown, Carlinhos 37, 180
Ilha do Mel 343 Bolpeba, Ilha de 202 Bry, Theodor de 50
Ipanema 12, 83 Bolsa e Museu do Café (Santos) 172, Buarque, Chico 35, 37
Itacaré 204 173 Buddhism 39
João Pessoa 234–5 Bond, James 81 Bueno, Maria Esther 25
Leblon 12, 83 Bonete 169 Buggies 245
Maceió 218, 219 Bonito 296, 327 Bumba-meu-boi 258
Maresias 169 hotels 379 Buriti palm trees 255
Morro de São Paulo 202 restaurants 395 Burle Marx, Roberto
Niterói 93 Bookshops Belo Horizonte 129
Paraty 112 São Paulo 155 Brasília 299, 306
Peninsula de Maraú 202 Boqueirão Norte 175 Parque Burle Marx (São Paulo)
Porto de Galinhas 219 Borrifos 169 153
Porto Seguro 205 Bosch, Hieronymus 147 Recife 222, 223
Praia da Barra da Tijuca 90 Bosco, Dom 298, 308 Sitio Roberto Burle Marx (Barra
Praia Prainha 91 Bossa nova 36 da Tijuca) 14, 91
Rota do Sol 241 Rio de Janeiro 97, 99 Buses 422
Salinópolis 274 Bosten, Mathias 119 in cities 427
Salvador’s Atlantic coast 13, Botafogo (Rio de Janeiro) 25 from airport 419
198–9 hotels 371 Búzios 12, 107, 120–21, 241
São Paulo State 165 restaurants 386–7 hotels 372
Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco Botecos 401 restaurants 388
213 Botocudos 53
Ubatuba 168 Botofogo Bay 70 C
Beça, Aníbal 35 Branco, Rio 281, 283 Cabanagem Rebellion (1835) 272
Beer 383 Brandão, Théo 218–19 Cable cars
Belém 263, 268, 269, 271, 272–3 Braque, Georges 146, 147 Sugar Loaf Mountain (Rio de
climate 49 Brasil, Vital 152 Janeiro) 80–81
festivals 44 Brasília 15, 21, 297, 306–9 Cabo Frio 107, 121
flight duration chart 421 architecture 33 Cabral, Pedro Álvares 51, 52–3
hotels 378 Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Itacaré 204
map 273 Senhora Aparecida (Brasília) 307, monument 150
restaurants 394 309 Porto Seguro 205
Bell, Alexander Graham 119 climate 49 Caburé 251, 255
Bellini, Giovanni 147 creation of a capital 298–9 Cáceres
Belo Horizonte 125, 129 flight duration chart 421 festivals 44
climate 49 history 62 Cachaça (alcohol) 383, 399
festivals 44 hotels 379 Cachoeira 200–201
flight duration chart 421 map 306–7 Cachoeira da Água Branca 169
history 58 restaurants 395 Cachoeira Almeçegas 317
hotels 373 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 303– Cachoeira d’Anta 137
restaurants 388–9 17 Cachoeira do Buraçao 209
Belterra 279 hotels 379 Cachoeira da Toca 169
Benedictine order 142–3 map 304–5 “Café com leite” Republic 58
Bento Gonçalves 22, 360 Parque Nacional Chapada dos Cafés 401
hotels 381 Veadeiros 316–17 Cafua das Mercês (São Luís), 258
restaurants 397 Pirenópolis 312–13 Caipira Picando Fumo (Júnior) 145
Bernl, Richard 142 restaurants 395 Calhau 258
Bethânia, Maria 200 Brazil, naming of 53 Calixto, Benedito 34
Beuque, Jacques van de 91 Brazilian Formula 1 Grand Prix Fundação Pinacoteca Benedito
Biggs, Ronald 81 44 Calixto (Santos) 172
Calixto, Benedito (cont.) Carvalho, João Antunes de 134 Cathedrals (cont.)

Igreja da Consolação (São Paulo) Carybé 190, 192 Catedral Metropolitana (Porto
143 Casa do Artesão (Corumbá) 326 Alegre) 356
Mãe Douro 172 Casa de Cadeia (Paraty) 110 Catedral Metropolitana (Rio de
Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo) Casa de Chica da Silva (Diamantina) Janeiro) 77
146 128 Catedral Metropolitana (São
Calliari, Ivo 77 Casa dos Contos (Ouro Preto) 130 Paulo) 12, 138, 142
Câmara, Hélder 38 Casa da Cultura (Recife) 223 Catedral Metropolitana de
Camélodromos (street traders) 398– Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado Florianópolis 336
9 (Ilhéus) 204 Catedral Metropolitana Nossa
Campeche 350 Casa de Cultura Mário Quintana Senhora Aparecida (Brasília) 307,
Campina Grande 231, 236 (Porto Alegre) 357 309
festivals 47 Casa Daros (Rio de Janeiro) 85 Catedral Militar de Nossa Senhora
Camping 369 Casa Esperança (São Sebastião) 169 da Paz (Brasília) 308
Campo Grande 326 Casa França-Brasil (Rio de Janeiro) Igreja da Sé (São Luís) 249, 257
hotels 380 75 Nossa Senhora do Amparo
restaurants 395 Casa Histórica do Iphan (Alcântara) (Teresina) 252
Cananéia 175 259 see also Churches
Canasvieras 350 Casa do Maranhão (São Luís) 258 Catholic Church 24, 38
Candomblé 24, 39, 181, 185 Casa Martim Afonso (São Vicente) Cattle
Festa da Boa Morte 201 173 gaúchos 335
Lavagem do Bonfim 199 Casa Museu Mestre Vitalino Rio Grande do Sul 353
Canela 358 (Caruaru) 227 Caves
festivals 47 Casa do Pontal (Barra da Tijuca) 14, Abismo Anhumas 327
hotels 381 91 Gruta do Lago Azul 327
Canion do Itaimbezinho 362 Casa das Rosas (São Paulo) 148 Presidente Figueiredo 288
Cânion Xingó 218 Casa de Santos Dumont (Petrópolis) Ubajara 245
Canoa Quebrada 231, 244 117 Caxias do Sul 353, 360–61
hotels 377 Casa Valduga festivals 45
restaurants 393 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Ceará see Paraíba, Rio Grande do
Canoeing 403 Casaldaliga, Pedro 38 Norte and Ceará
Canudos 210 Cascading 403 Cell phones 416
Canudos War (1897) 210 Cascatinha do Taunay 92 Central West Brazil 295–327
Canyoning 403 Cash machines 414 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins
Capela Dourada (Recife) 222 Castelo Branco, Marshal Humberto 303–17
Capela das Graças 62 creation of a capital 298–9
Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Castles and fortifications flora and fauna in the cerrado
Capela das Neves Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos 300–301
Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Prazeres (Ilha do Mel) 342 map 296–7
Capiberibe, João 275 Fortaleza de Santa Cruz (Niterói) Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do
Capoeira 13, 180, 185, 203 93 Sul 319–27
classes 404, 405 Fortaleza de São José de Macapá Pantanal 324–5
Caracaranã, Lago 292 275 Parque Nacional Chapada dos
Caravelas 205 Forte do Brum (Recife) 221 Veadeiros 303, 304, 316–17
Cardoso, Fernando Henrique 22, 63 Forte das Cinco Pontas (Recife) 221 Centro de Conveções Riocentro
Cardoso, Ilha do 165, 175 Forte de Copacabana 82 (Barra da Tijuca) 91
Caribé 84 Forte Defensor Perpétuo (Paraty) Centro de Cultura Popular (São Luís)
Cariocas 31, 71 111 257, 258
Cariri 236 Forte Junqueira (Corumbá) 326 Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil
Carnatal (Natal) 45 Forte Orange (Ilha de Itamaracá) (Rio de Janeiro) 89
Carnaval 25, 45, 47 227 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (São
Museu das Cavalhadas Forte do Presépio (Belém) 272 Paulo) 143
(Pirenópolis) 312 Forte Príncipe da Beira 293 Centro Cultural Dannemann (São
Olinda 226 Forte dos Reis Magos (Natal) 240 Félix) 201
Rio de Janeiro 68–9 Forte de Santo Antônio (Salvador) Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar
Salvador 197 13, 197 (Fortaleza) 246
São Paulo 139 Forte de São Felipe (Salvador) Centro Cultural FIESP (São Paulo)
Cars 422–3 198–9 148
driving in São Paulo 159 Castro Maya, Raymundo Ottoni de Centro Cultural Yves Alves
driving in towns 422–3 92 (Tiradentes) 136
gas stations 422 Castrolanda 333 Centro da Lagoa 350
off-road driving 402–3, 405 Cathedrals Centro de Tradições Gaúchas 334
parking 423 Catedral Basílica (Salvador) 190, Centro de Turismo (Fortaleza) 246
Rally dos Sertões 47 192–3 Centro de Turismo (Natal) 240
rental 422, 423 Catedral Basílica de Nossa Senhora Cerrado 27
rules of the road 423 das Neves (João Pessoa) 234 flora and fauna in the cerrado
see also Motor racing; Tours by car Catedral de São Pedro de 300–301
Carstairs, Henrietta 80 Alcântara (Petrópolis) 116 wildlife 29
Caruaru 227 Catedral de São Pedro dos Ceschiatti, Alfredo
festivals 47 Clérigos (Recife) 222 São Mateus 309
Céu 37 Churches (cont.) Clothes

Cézanne, Paul 147 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis Afro-Brazilian culture 181
Chafariz da Piramide (Rio de (São João del Rei) 137 Brazilian beach culture 43
Janeiro) 74 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis festivals 46
Chagall, Marc 146, 147 (São Paulo) 142 gaúcho 334
Chain hotels 368, 369 Igreja de São Francisco da in restaurants 382
Chapada Diamantina, Parque Penitência (Rio de Janeiro) 76 São Paulo Fashion Week 149
Nacional de 13, 208–9 Igreja de São Jorge (Ilhéus) 204 shopping in Rio de Janeiro 95
Chapada dos Guimarães 322–3 Igreja da Sé (Olinda) 224 shopping in São Paulo 154, 155
Chapada dos Veadeiros, Parque Igreja da Sé (São Luís) 249 what to take 408
Nacional 303, 304, 316–17 Igreja Terceira Ordem de São Clubs
hotels 379 Francisco (Salvador) 195 Rio de Janeiro 97, 99
restaurants 395 Matriz de Nossa Senhora da São Paulo 156–7
Children 409 Conceição (Ouro Preto) 131, 132 Coelho, Paulo 25, 35
in hotels 367 Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar Coelho Pereira, Duarte 217
in restaurants 383 (Ouro Preto) 130, 132 Coffee 56–7, 399
in São Paulo 157 Matriz Nossa Senhora dos Cog train (Rio de Janeiro) 12, 87
Cholera 410 Remédios (Paraty) 111 Coins 415
Churches Matriz de Santo Antônio Collor de Mello, Fernando 63
art 34 (Tiradentes) 136 Colonial literature 35
Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Nosso Senhor do Bonfim Communications 416–17
Asunção (Mariana) 133 (Salvador) 198–9 Communists 59
Basílica de Nossa Senhora de Nossa Senhora de Candelária (Rio Composição (Volpi) 144
Nazaré (Belém) 273 de Janeiro) 75 Comprida, Ilha 175
Basílica de São Pedro dos Clérigos Nossa Senhora do Carmo Conceição, Frei Domingos da 34, 76
(Mariana) 133 (Diamantina) 128 Conceição, José Eloy da 226
Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Nossa Senhora das Dores (Paraty) Condamine, Charles-Marie de la 278
Matosinhos (Congonhas) 134–5 111 Confeitaria Colombo (Rio de
Capela Dourada (Recife) 222 Nossa Senhora do Rosário Janeiro) 12, 76–7
Capela das Graças (Vale dos (Diamantina) 128 Congonhas
Vinhedos) 359 Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de
Capela das Neves (Vale dos Benedito (Paraty) 110 Matosinhos 134–5
Vinhedos) 359 Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos Congresso Nacional e Anexos
Igreja da Consolação (São Paulo) (Paraty) 110 (Brasília) 24, 307
143 Santuário Dom Bosco (Brasília) Conselheiro, Antônio 35, 210
Igreja e Convento de São 308 Constable, John 147
Francisco (Salvador) 13, 32, 190, Santuário Santo Antônio do Consulates 413
194–5 Valongo (Santos) 172, 173 Conti, Júlio 193
Igreja Matriz (São Sebastião) 168, São Josafat (Prudentópolis) 333 Convento de São Francisco (Olinda)
169 São Miguel das Missões 330, 224, 226
Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do 363 Convento de São Francisco
Rosário (Pirenópolis) 312 see also Cathedrals (Penedo) 217
Igreja Matriz de São Vicente Mártir Churrascaria rodízio (barbecue Convento do São Francisco
(São Vicente) 173 houses) 383 (Marechal Deodoro) 218
Igreja e Mosteiro São Bento Cid brothers 291 Cooperativa Vinícola Aurora (Bento
(Olinda) 225, 226 Cidade das Artes (Barra da Tijuca) Gonçalves) 360
Igreja Nossa Senhor do Bonfim 90 Copacabana 12, 71, 82
(Pirenópolis) 312 Cidade de Goiás 303, 314 festivals 45
Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Carmo festivals 46 hotels 370–71
(Ouro Preto) 131 Cidade do Samba (Rio de Janeiro) map 82–3
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Corrente 88–9 restaurants 386
(Penedo) 217 Cigars Coral reefs
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do São Félix 201 Maracajaú 242
Outeiro (Rio de Janeiro) 79 Cinelândia (Rio de Janeiro) 77 Corpus Christi 47
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário Cinema 25, 62, 400–401 Corumbá 326
dos Pretos (Salvador) 191 Cinelândia (Rio de Janeiro) 77 Costa, Cláudio Manuel da 35
Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São festivals 44, 47 Costa, Lúcio 153
Francisco (Salvador) 191 James Bond’s Moonraker 81 Brasília 299, 306
Igreja de Santa Maria dos Anjos Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Museu das Missões (São Miguel
(Penedo) 217 São Paulo 157 das Missões) 363
Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena shopping in São Paulo 154, Costa, Manuel da see Athayde,
(Marechal Deodoro) 218 155 Mestre
Igreja de São Francisco (João Circo Voador (Rio de Janeiro) 12, Costa, Manuel Inácio da 194
Pessoa) 234 78 Costa Branca 243
Igreja São Francisco (Recife) Círio de Nazaré (Belém) 44 Costa Coelho, Caetano da 76
222 Climate 48–9 Costa do Sauípe 211
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis wet and dry seasons 26 hotels 374
(Belo Horizonte) 129 Climbing Costa e Silva, Artur da 62
Igreja da São Francisco de Assis Sugar Loaf Mountain (Rio de Costa do Sol
(Ouro Preto) 124, 131, 132 Janeiro) 80 beaches 120–21
Costa Verde (Green Coast) 114 Disabled travelers 409 Estação da Luz (São Paulo) 13, 146
A week on the Costa Verde 14 in hotels 367 Estação Pinacoteca (São Paulo)
Crafts Discounts 146
Afro-Brazilian culture 181 air travel 420 Estádio do Maracanã (Rio de
Crafts shops 399 entertainment 400 Janeiro) 88
Mercado Modelo (Salvador) Diving 403 Estado Nôvo 59, 60, 151
196 Fernando de Noronha 229 Estância Mimosa 327
Rio de Janeiro 95 Docks & Waterfront (Rio de Janeiro) Estrada de Ferro Central do Brasil
São Paulo 155 76 (Amaral) 152
Cravo, Mario Doctors 411 Estrada Graciosa 341
A Cruz Caida 187 Dois Irmãos 213 Estrada Parque 204
Credit cards 412, 414–15 Domingas Dias 168 Estrada Real 125
in hotels 366 Dorivã 313 Etiquette 409
in restaurants 382 Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan 262 Eu, Count d’ 116
in shops 398 Drape, Dorothy 117 tomb 116
Crime 412–13 Drinks European immigrants 30
São Paulo 159 shopping in São Paulo 154, 155 Evangelical Protestantism 38–9
Crispim 253 see also Food and drink Evans, Cliford 274
Cristalino Jungle Lodge 296, 323 Drummond, Carlos 35 Events 44–7
Cristo de Rapadura (Dias) 151 Dry season 26 Expoflora (Holambra) 44
Cristo Redentor (Rio de Janeiro) 12, Dunes
21, 86–7 buggies 245 F
Cruises 425 Costa Branca 243 Famiglia Tasca
Cruls, Luiz 298 Genipabu 242 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359
Cuiabá 15, 322 Natal 240 Faria, Captain Rodrigues de 198
hotels 379 Dutch immigrants 333 Fascism 59, 60
restaurants 395 Dutra, General Eurico 59, 117 Fashion see Clothes
Cunha, Euclides da 34, 35, 58, 210 Duty-free allowances 419 Favelas
Curitiba 331, 337, 340, 348–9 Rio de Janeiro 89
hotels 380 E safety 412
restaurants 396 Eckhout, Albert 223 Fazenda Babilonia (Pirenópolis) 313
Currency 414–15 Eclectic architecture 33 Fernando de Noronha 179, 228–9
Curucirari people Economy 22–3 hotels 376
architecture 32 Ecoparque Sperry 358 map 215, 228–9
Cururupe 204 Ecosystems 22, 28–9 restaurants 392
Cururupu 259 Ecotourism 402, 405 Fernando de Noronha, Parque
Customs and duty free 419 Edifício Altino Arantes (São Paulo) Nacional Marinho de 213, 228
Cycling 403, 405 12, 138, 143 Ferradurinha 121
Edifício Itália (São Paulo) 12, 143 Fest Verão Paraíba (João Pessoa)
D Eiffel, Gustave 284 45
Dams Einstein, Albert 84, 86 Festa do Bembé do Mercado
Italpu Binacional 15, 346 Eisenhower, Dwight D 298 (Santo Amaro) 46
Xingó 218 Eixo Monumental (Brasília) 306 Festa da Boa Morte 201
Dance 400 Electricity 409 Festa do Boi Bumbá (Parintins) 47,
classes 404, 405 Elevador Lacerda (Salvador) 13, 291
festivals 47 193 Festa do Bumba-meu-boi (São Luis)
frevo 221 Elizabeth II, Queen of England 93 47, 258
gaúcho 335 Emas, Parque Nacional das 315 Festa do Divino Espírito Santo 46,
Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Emergencies 411, 423 313
São Paulo 156, 157 Encontro das Aguas 289 Festa Literária Internacional de
Dance bars Enseada de Botafogo 25 Paraty 47
São Paulo 156–7 Entertainment 400–401 Festa Nacional da Maçã (São
Dannemann, Gerhard 201 bars, cafés and botecos 401 Joaquim) 46
Darwin, Charles 84 cinema 400–401 Festa Nacional da Uva (Caxias do
David, Jacques-Louis 147 discount tickets and free events Sul) 45
Debret, Jean-Baptiste 34, 78 400 Festa da Nossa Senhora das Neves
Dedo de Deus 119 gardens and theme parks 401 (João Pessoa) 47
Delta do Parnaíba 254–5 information and booking 400 Festa do Peão de Boiadeiro
Dengue fever 410 performing arts 400 (Barretos) 47
Deodoro da Fonseca, Marechal Rio de Janeiro 96–9 Festa do Pinhão (Lages) 47
Manuel 58, 218 São Paulo 156–7 Festa Santa Bárbara (Salvador) 45
Di Cavalcanti, Emiliano 34, 147 soccer matches 401 Festa de São Lázaro (Salvador) 45
Dialing codes 416 Ernst, Max 152 Festas Juninas 46–7, 236
Diamantina 67, 125, 126, 128 Espaço Cultural da Marinha (Rio de Festas dos Ticumbi & Alardo
Diamonds Janeiro) 75, 92, 93 (Itaúnas) 45
Lençóis 208 Espírito Santo see Rio de Janeiro Festival de Gramado 47
Dias, Caetano and Espírito Santo Festival de Inverno (São Paulo)
Cristo de Rapadura 151 Esplanada dos Ministérios (Brasília) 47
Dinosaur tracks 307 Festival Internacional da Dança
Souza 236 Estaçáo das Docas (Belém) 272 (Joinville) 47
Festivals 44–7 Foz do Iguaçu 15, 330, 337, 344–7 Grumari (Rio de Janeiro) 91
Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro 68–9 Foz do Iguaçu (town) 346 Gruta do Lago Azul 327
Lavagem do Bonfim 199 hotels 380–81 Guanabara Bay 71, 80, 92
Figueiredo, General João 62, 63 restaurants 396 Guaraní people 353, 362
Film see Cinema France 54–5 Guarapari 122
First Republic 58 Franco, Siron 34 Guarujá 165, 169
Fiscal, Ilha 92–3 Frevo 221 hotels 374
Fish and seafood Freyre, Gilberto 35 restaurants 391
The flavors of Brazil 384–5 Friedenreich, Artur 40 Guimarães Rosa, João 35
Fishing 403 Fruit
festivals 44 The flavors of Brazil 385 H
Fittipaldi, Emerson 25 Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado Hals, Franz 147
Flamengo (Rio de Janeiro) (Salvador) 191, 192 Hatoum, Milton 35
hotels 371 Fundação Eva Klabin (Lagoa Health 410–11
restaurants 386–7 Rodrigo de Freitas) 84 Helicopter tours
Flora and fauna 28–9 Fundação Pinacoteca Benedito Rio de Janeiro 98, 99
in the cerrado 300–301 Calixto (Santos) 172, 173 Hell, Maximiliano 142, 143
Pantanal 301 Higienópolis (São Paulo City)
see also Wildlife G restaurants 389
Flores da Cunha 361 Gafieira History 51–63
Florianópolis 331, 337, 338, 350–51 Rio de Janeiro 97, 99 Holambra
flight duration chart 421 Gainsborough, Thomas 147 festivals 44
hotels 380 Galleries see Museums and galleries Holanda, Sérgio Buarque de 35
restaurants 396 Gama, José Basilio da 35 Holbein, Hans 147
Flowers Gardens see Parks and gardens Holidays, public 47
Brazil’s Flora and fauna 28–9 Garibaldi 360 Homem do Norte (Manaus) 284
Expoflora (Holambra) 44 Garrincha 40 Horse racing
Food and drink Gas stations 422 Jóquei Clube Brasileiro (Rio de
barreado 343 Gaúchos 334–5 Janeiro) 84
Brazilian beach culture 42 Rio Grande do Sul 353 Rio de Janeiro 98, 99
festivals 47 Gay and lesbian travelers Horses
The flavors of Brazil 384–5 Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 gaúchos 335
The flavors of Northeast Brazil Geisel, Ernesto 62, 63 Hospitals 411
182–3 Gems, shopping 399 Hot-Air Balloon Festival (Torres)
gaúcho 335 Génio do Repouso Eterno (Rodin) 145 46
safety 411 Genipabu 242 Hotel das Cataratas Belmond 15
shopping 399 restaurants 393 Hotel Unique (São Paulo) 33, 150
shopping in São Paulo 154, 155 German immigrants 332 Hotels 366–81
see also Restaurants; Wines Getz, Stan 36, 83 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and
Football see Soccer Gil, Gilberto 36, 37 Rondônia 378–9
Ford, Henry 278–9 Gilberto, Astrud 83 apart-hotels 367
Fordlândia 278–9 Gilberto, João 83 Bahia 374–5
Forró 240 Giorgi, Bruno 84 booking 366, 369
Fortal (Fortaleza) 47 Os Candangos 302, 307 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 379
Fortaleza 233, 238–9, 246–7 Gipóia, Ilha da 114 budget options 369
festivals 47 “The Girl from Ipanema” 83 chain hotels 368, 369
flight duration chart 421 Glaziou, Auguste 88 children in 367
hotels 377 GLBT Parade (São Paulo) 47 disabled travelers 367
map 246–7 Goiás see Brasília, Goiás and Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do
restaurants 393 Tocantins Sul 379–80
Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos Gold 55 Minas Gerais 373
Prazeres (Ilha do Mel) 342 Golden Law (1888) 57 Pará and Amapá 378
Fortaleza de Santa Cruz (Niterói) 93 Gonçalves, Andre 92 Piauí and Maranhão 377
Fortaleza de São José de Macapá Gonzaga, Luiz 227, 237 pousadas 366, 368, 369
275 Gonzaga, Tomás Antônio 35 prices and payments 366–7
Forte do Brum (Recife) 221 Goulart, João 62 resorts 368
Forte das Cinco Pontas (Recife) 221 Governador, Ilha do 92 Rio de Janeiro City 370–71
Forte de Copacabana 82 Goya y Lucientes, Francisco José Rio de Janeiro State and Espírito
Forte Defensor Perpétuo (Paraty) 147 Santo 372–3
111 Gramado 358 Rio Grande do Sul 381
Forte Junqueira (Corumbá) 326 festivals 47 Santa Catarina and Paraná 380–81
Forte Orange (Ilha de Itamaracá) hotels 381 São Paulo City 373–4
227 restaurants 397 São Paulo State 374
Forte do Presépio (Belém) 272 Grande, Ilha 14, 107, 114 Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco
Forte Príncipe da Beira 293 hotels 372 375–6
Forte dos Reis Magos (Natal) 240 Grande Carajás 269 tipping 367
Forte de Santo Antônio (Salvador) El Greco 147 Hydroelectricity
13, 197 Green Coast see Costa Verde Italpu Binacional 15, 346
Forte de São Felipe (Salvador) 198–9 Green Line see Linha Verde Hygiene 411
Foua, João 278 Gresnicht, Adelbert 34 Hypermarkets 398
I Independence Day 47 Jaú, Parque Nacional 289

Identification 413 Indigenous peoples 30 Jericoacoara 231, 244–5
Igapó forest 325 architecture 32 hotels 377
Igreja da Consolação (São Paulo) history 51, 52 Jesuits 38
143 Museu do Índio (Manaus) 15, 285 colonization of Brazil 53
Igreja e Convento de São Francisco Museu do Índio (Rio de Janeiro) literature 35
(Salvador) 13, 32, 190, 194–5 12, 85 The rise and collapse of Jesuit
Igreja Matriz (São Sebastião) 168, Museu do Índio Marechal Rondon missions 362
169 (Cuiabá) 322 São Miguel das Missões 330,
Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do The people of Amazônia 266–7 363
Rosário (Pirenópolis) 312 religion 39 São Paulo City 139, 142
Igreja Matriz de São Vicente Mártir slavery 54 Jesus, José Teófilo de 216
(São Vicente) 173 see also individual tribes Jewelry
Igreja e Mosteiro São Bento (Olinda) Instituto Butantã (São Paulo) 13, Afro-Brazilian culture 181
225, 226 152–3 buying gems 399
Igreja Nossa Senhor do Bonfim Instituto de Desenvolvimento shopping in Rio de Janeiro 94,
(Pirenópolis) 312 Sustentável Mamirauá 291 95
Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Carmo Instituto Itaú Cultural (São Paulo) Jews 39, 333
(Ouro Preto) 131 148 Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Corrente Instituto Ricardo Brennand (Recife) (Recife) 220–21
(Penedo) 217 223 Joanes 274
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do Integralistas 59, 60 João III, Dom 52, 53, 54
Outeiro (Rio de Janeiro) 79 International Book Biennial (São João VI, Dom 56, 74
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Paulo) 46 Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do
Pretos (Salvador) 191 International Festival of Culture and Outeiro (Rio de Janeiro) 79
Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Gastronomy (Tiradentes) 47 Jardim Botânico (Rio de Janeiro)
Francisco (Salvador) 191 International Fishing Festival 84
Igreja de Santa Maria dos Anjos (Cáceres) 44 Museu Nacional de Belas Artes
(Penedo) 217 International Puppet Theater (Rio de Janeiro) 78
Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena Festival 47 Museu Nacional (Rio de Janeiro)
(Marechal Deodoro) 218 Internet 417 88
Igreja de São Francisco (João Ipanema 12, 83 João Pessoa 231, 232, 234–5
Pessoa) 234 hotels 371 festivals 45, 47
Igreja São Francisco (Recife) 222 map 82–3 hotels 376
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis restaurants 387 map 235
(Belo Horizonte) 129 Iracema 247 restaurants 393
Igreja da São Francisco de Assis Isabel, Princess Jobim, Antônio Carlos (“Tom”) 36,
(Ouro Preto) 124, 131, 132 abolition of slavery 77, 78 83, 97
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (São Petrópolis 116 John XXIII, Pope 38
João del Rei) 137 tomb 116 John Paul II, Pope 79, 86, 88, 308
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (São Islam 39 Joinville
Paulo) 142 Itacaré 204 festivals 47
Igreja de São Francisco da hotels 374 Jóquei Clube Brasileiro (Rio de
Penitência (Rio de Janeiro) 76 restaurants 391 Janeiro) 84
Igreja de São Jorge (Ilhéus) 204 Italian immigrants 333 Jorge, Seu 78
Igreja da Sé (Olinda) 224 Italpu Binacional 15, 346 Juazeiro do Norte
Igreja da Sé (São Luís) 249, 257 Itamaracá, Ilha de 227 festivals 44
Igreja Terceira Ordem de São Itaparica, Ilha de 13, 200 Judaism 39
Francisco (Salvador) 195 Itapuã 199 Júnior, Almeida 147
Iguaçu, Foz do 15, 330, 337, 344–7 Itatiaia, Parque Nacional 107, 108, Caipira Picando Fumo 145
Iguaçu, Parque Nacional do 344, 115 Junta, military 62
346 Itaúnas 107, 123
Iguape 174–5 festivals 45 K
Iguazú, Parque Nacional 15, 347 Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue (Recife)
Ilha see islands by name J 220–21
Ilhabela 14, 165, 169 Jalapão 305, 314–15 Kardec, Allan 39
hotels 374 Japanese immigrants 31, 173, 333 Kayapó malocas (longhouses)
restaurants 391 Liberdade (São Paulo) 149 32
Ilhabela Sailing Week 47 religion 39 Kayapó people 267
Ilhéus 204 Jardim de Alá 199 Kitesurfing 403
hotels 374 Jardim Botânico (Rio de Janeiro) 12, Klabin, Eva 84
Immigration 24, 30–31 84 Kubitschek, Juscelino 62, 79
Japanese 173 restaurants 387–8 Belo Horizonte 125, 129
multicultural Southern Brazil 332– Jardim Botânico (São Paulo) 153 Brasília 298, 299, 306, 308
3 Jardim Zoológico (Rio de Janeiro) bust of 304
regulations 418 88 Museu de Juscelino Kubitschek
Imperial Museum (Petrópolis) 118– Jardins and Avenida Paulista (São (Diamantina) 128
19 Paulo) Palácio Rio Negro (Petrópolis)
Inconfidência Mineira rebellion hotels 373 116
(1789) 55, 130, 131 restaurants 389–90 Kuerten, Gustavo 25
L Madeira-Mamoré Museu Ferroviário Maps (cont.)

Labor Day 47 (Porto Velho) 262, 281, 293 Parque Nacional Chapada dos
Lacerda, Antônio Francisco de Mãe Douro (Calixto) 172 Veadeiros 316–17
193 Magazines 417 Parque Nacional do Lençóis
Lages shopping in São Paulo 155 Maranhenses 254–5
festivals 47 Mail services 417 Parque Nacional de Serra do
Lagoa see lakes by name Malfatti, Anita 34, 146, 152 Capivara 252–3
Lajedo de Soledade 243 Tropical 145 Petrópolis 116–17
Lampião 217 Mamori, Lago 290 Piauí and Maranhão 250–51
Landowski, Paul 86 Manaquiri, Lago 290 Pirenópolis 313
Landscape 26–7 Manatees Porto Alegre 356
The Amazon ecosystem 264–5 Projeto Peixe Bot (Ilha de Recife 220–21
sertão 237 Itamaracá) 227 Rio de Janeiro 72–3
Languages 21, 408 Manaus 15, 281, 284–91 Rio de Janeiro: Greater Rio de
classes 404, 405 airport 419 Janeiro City 73
Lapa (Rio de Janeiro) 12, 78 Amazon excursions from 288–91 Rio de Janeiro: Street Finder
Laranjeiras 112 climate 48 100–105
Latifundia 58 flight duration chart 421 Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo
Lavagem do Bonfim (Salvador) 45, hotels 378 108–9
181, 199 map 285 Rio Grande do Sul 354–5
Lázaro 168 restaurants 394 Rota do Sol beaches 241
Le Corbusier 33, 153, 299 Teatro Amazonas 286–7 Salvador 188–9
and Brasília 298, 308 Manet, Edouard 147 Salvador: Greater Salvador 189
Leblon 12, 83 Manguezal de Vitória 122 Salvador: Pelourinho 190–91
hotels 371 Mantegna, Andrea 147 Salvador’s Atlantic coast 198–9
map 82–3 Manuel I, Emperor of Portugal 52 Santa Catarina and Paraná 338–9
restaurants 387 Maps São Luís 256–7
Leme Amazon excursions from Manaus São Paulo 140–41
hotels 370–71 288 São Paulo: Street finder 158–63
restaurants 386 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and São Paulo State 167
Lemos de Gonzaga family 217 Rondônia 282–3 Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco
Lempião 243 Bahia 186–7 214–15
Lençóis 13, 178, 208 Barra 90 Serra da Graciosa 341
hotels 374 Belém 273 Southeast Brazil 18–19, 66–7
restaurants 391 Brasília 306–7 Southern Brazil 330–31
Lençóis, Ilha dos 259 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 304–5 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359
Lençóis Maranhenses, Parque Brasília: Greater Brasília 16 Maracá, Ilha do 292
Nacional do 249, 251, 254–5 Brazil 16–17 Maracajaú 242
restaurants 394 Central and South America 17 Marajó, Ilha de 263, 269, 271, 274
Leo III, Pope 77 Central West Brazil 296–7 hotels 378
Leopoldina, Empress 88 Climate of Brazil 48–9 Maranhão see Piauí and Maranhão
tomb 152 Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon Marcelino, Antônio 192
Liberation Theology 34, 38 82–3 Marechal Deodoro 218
Liberdade (São Paulo) 13, 149 Costa do Sol: beaches 120–21 Maresias 14, 169
restaurants 390 Delta do Parnaíba 254–5 hotels 374
Lima, Joaquin Eugenio de 148 Fernando de Noronha 215, 228–9 Maria Bonita 217
Linha Verde (Green Line) 13, 211 Florianópolis and Ilha de Santa Maria Eugenia 313
Linnaeus, Carl 153 Catarina 350–51 Mariana 133
Lisboa, Manuel Francisco 132 Fortaleza 246–7 Maricá 120
Lispector, Clarice 35 Foz do Iguaçu 346 Marina da Glória 92, 93
Literature 25, 35 João Pessoa 235 Marinho de Abrolhos, Parque
The Litorina 341 The landscapes of Brazil 26–7 Nacional 185, 205
Lodges 366, 369 Linha Verde 211 Markets 398–9
Lopes Mendes 114 Manaus 285 Casa da Cultura (Recife) 223
Louis XIII, King of France 249 Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Macapá 275
Loureiro, Rita 284 Sul 320–21 Mercado Central (Fortaleza) 246
Luis, Washington 60 Minas Gerais 126–7 Mercado Modelo (Salvador) 196
Lula da Silva, Luiz Inácio 22, 23, 63, Northeast Brazil 178–9 Mercado Municipal Adolfo Lisboa
139 Northern Brazil 262–3 (Manaus) 284
Olinda 224–5 Mercado Público (Porto Alegre)
M Ouro Preto 130–31 356
Macapá 269, 270, 275 Pantanal 324–5 Mercado Ribeira (Olinda) 225
hotels 378 Pará and Amapá 270–71 Marumbi, Parque Estadual de 341
restaurants 394 Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and Mata Atlântica (Atlantic forest) 27,
Maceió 218–19 Ceará 232–3 63, 107, 108, 113, 125, 165, 167
hotels 375 Paraty 111 Salvador 13, 198–9
restaurants 392 Paraty: beaches and islands Parque Nacional de Superagui 343
Machado de Assis, Joaquim Maria around 112 Pedra Azul 123
34, 35 Parque Nacional de Chapada Serra da Graciosa 341
Madeira, Rio 281, 282 Diamantina 208–9 wildlife 29
Matisse, Henri 152 Mireilles, Fernando 25 Museums and galleries (cont.)

Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Missão Cruls 298 Casa Histórica do Iphan
Sul 319–27 Misteriosa, Lagoa 318 (Alcântara) 259
hotels 379–80 Modernism Casa do Maranhão (São Luís) 258
map 320–21 architecture 33 Casa Martim Afonso (São Vicente)
Pantanal 324–5 literature 35 173
restaurants 395 Modigliani, Amadeo 152 Casa Museu Mestre Vitalino
Matos, Gregório de 35 Monasteries and convents (Caruaru) 227
Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Convento da Nossa Senhora da Casa do Pontal (Barra da Tijuca) 91
Conceição (Ouro Preto) 131, 132 Penha (Vitória) 122 Centro de Cultura Popular (São
Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar Convento de São Francisco Luís) 257, 258
(Ouro Preto) 130, 132 (Olinda) 224, 226 Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil
Matriz Nossa Senhora dos Remédios Convento de São Francisco (Rio de Janeiro) 89
(Paraty) 111 (Penedo) 217 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil
Matriz de Santo Antônio Convento do São Francisco (São Paulo) 143
(Tiradentes) 136 (Marechal Deodoro) 218 Centro Cultural Dannemann (São
Mauá, Visconde de 146 Convento de São Francisco Félix) 201
Maurice of Nassau 223 (Salvador) 32, 190, 194–5 Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar
Mayrink Chapel (Tijuca) 92 Mosteiro de São Bento (João (Fortaleza) 246
Meat Pessoa) 234 Centro Cultural Yves Alves
The flavors of Brazil 384 Mosteiro de São Bento (Rio de (Tiradentes) 136
Media 416–17 Janeiro) 76 Espaço Cultural da Marinha (Rio
Medical care 410–11 Mosteiro São Bento (São Paulo) de Janeiro) 75, 92, 93
Médici, General 62–3 142–3 Estação Pinacoteca (São Paulo) 146
Meggers, Betty 274 Money 414–15 Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado
Meireles, Vitor 78 Monte Alegre 279 (Salvador) 191, 192
Meirelles, Fernando 89 Monte Roraima 262, 292 Fundação Eva Klabin (Lagoa
Mel, Ilha do 342–3 Monte Roraima, Parque Nacional de Rodrigo de Freitas) 84
Mello, Francisco de 57 292 Fundação Pinacoteca Benedito
Memling, Hans 147 Monumento às Bandeiras (São Calixto (Santos) 172, 173
Memorial das Conquistas (Santos) Paulo) 150 Homem do Norte (Manaus) 284
173 Moonraker (film) 81 Imperial Museum (Petrópolis)
Memorial do Rio Grande do Sul Moore, Roger 81 118–19
(Porto Alegre) 357 Moraes, Vinícius de 35, 36, 83, 97 Instituto Itaú Cultural (São Paulo)
Memorial do Vinho Moriconi, Roberto 84 148
Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Morretes 341 Instituto Ricardo Brennand (Recife)
Memorial dos Povos Indígenas hotels 381 223
(Brasília) 306 Morro Branco 231 Madeira-Mamoré Museu
Mendes, Chico 281, 293 Morro do Corcovado (Rio de Ferroviário (Porto Velho) 262, 281,
Mendes, Feliciano 134 Janeiro) 12, 86–7 293
Mendes, Sergio 36 Morro do Pai Inácio 208 Museu Abelardo Rodrigues Solar
Mercado Central (Fortaleza) 246 Morro do Pico 215, 229 do Ferrão (Salvador) 191
Mercado Modelo (Salvador) 13, 196 Morro de São Paulo 13, Museu do Açude (Tijuca) 92
Mercado Municipal Adolfo Lisboa 202 Museu Afro Brasil (São Paulo) 150
(Manaus) 284 hotels 375 Museu Afro-Brasileiro (Salvador)
Mercado Público (Porto Alegre) restaurants 391 190, 192
356 Morro da Urca (Rio de Janeiro) 12, Museu do Antônio Prado 361
Mercado Ribeira (Olinda) 225 80 Museu de Arqueologia e
Mercury, Daniela 37 Mosaico Juréia-Itatins 174 Etnologia (Paranaguá) 342
Meros, Ilha dos 112 Mossoró 243 Museu de Arqueológia de Xingó
Metro 426–7 Mosteiro de São Bento (João (Cânion Xingó) 218
Mileage chart 19 Pessoa) 234 Museu Arquidiocesano de Arte
Miller, Charles 40 Mosteiro de São Bento (Rio de Sacra (Rio de Janeiro) 77
Millet, Jean François 147 Janeiro) 76 Museu de Arte Assis
Minas Gerais 12, 15, 21, 125–37 Mosteiro São Bento (São Paulo) Chateaubriand (Campina Grande)
Basílica do Nossa Senhor Bom 142–3 236
Jesus de Matosinhos (Congonhas) Motels 369 Museu de Arte da Bahia (Salvador)
134–5 Moto-taxis 426 197
festivals 46 Motor racing 25, 44 Museu de Arte Contemporânea
hotels 373 Mountain biking 403, 405 (Niterói) 93
map 126–7 Mulattoes 31 Museu de Arte Contemporânea
restaurants 388–9 Mundaú, Lagoa 219 (Olinda) 225, 226
Mines 269 Museums and galleries Museu de Arte Contemporânea
Ministry of Education (Rio de Bolsa e Museu do Café (Santos) (São Paulo) 152
Janeiro) 33, 61 172, 173 Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM,
Miranda 326 Cafua das Mercês (São Luís) Rio de Janeiro) 78–9
hotels 380 258 Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM,
Miranda, Carmen 25, 61, 75, 82 Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado São Paulo) 13, 151
Mirante do Morro do Espio (Iguape) (Ilhéus) 204 Museu de Arte Moderna
174 Casa Daros (Rio de Janeiro) 85 (Salvador) 13, 196
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) N

Museu de Arte do Rio (Rio de Museu do Mamulengo (Olinda) Naming of Brazil 53
Janeiro) 76 225, 226 Napoleon I, Emperor 56, 74
Museu de Arte do Rio Grande do Museu de Microbiologia (São Natal 179, 231, 240
Sul (Porto Alegre) 357 Paulo) 153 festivals 45
Museu de Arte Sacra (Cidade de Museu Mineiro (Belo Horizonte) 129 hotels 376
Goiás) 314 Museu das Missões (São Miguel restaurants 393
Museu de Arte Sacra (Curitiba) 340 das Missões) 363 National Handicraft Fair (Belo
Museu de Arte Sacra (Iguape) 175 Museu Municipal (Cananéia) 175 Horizonte) 44
Museu de Arte Sacra (Mariana) 133 Museu Municipal (Caxias do Sul) National parks
Museu de Arte Sacra (Salvador) 13, 361 Aparados da Serra 353, 354, 362
196 Museu Nacional (Rio de Janeiro) 88 Chapada Diamantina 13, 208–9
Museu de Arte Sacra (São Museu Nacional de Belas Artes Chapada dos Veadeiros 303, 304,
Cristóvão) 216 (Rio de Janeiro) 78 316–17
Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo) Museu Nacional Honestino Emas 315
13, 146 Guimarães (Brasília) 307 Fernando de Noronha 213, 228
Museu de Arte Sacra (São Museu Oscar Niemeyer (Curitiba) Iguaçu 344, 346
Sebastião) 168, 169 340 Iguazú 15, 347
Museu de Arte Sacra de Santarém Museu Padre Anchieta (São Paulo) Itatiaia 107, 108, 115
278, 279 142 Jaú 289
Museu de Arte de São Paulo Museu do Pantanal (Corumbá) 326 Lençóis Maranhenses 254–5
(MASP) 11, 13, 147 Museu Paranaense (Curitiba) 340 Marinho de Abrolhos 185, 205
Museu das Bandeiras (Cidade de Museu Paulista do Ipiranga (São Monte Roraima 292
Goiás) 314 Paulo) 152 Pantanal Matogrossense 324
Museu do Amanhã (Rio de Museu do Piauí (Teresina) 252 Serra da Canastra 66, 125, 127,
Janeiro) 76 Museu de Porto Seguro 205 137
Museu do Barro (Caruaru) 227 Museu Regional de São João del Serra do Capivara 252–3
Museu da Borrachá (Rio Branco) 293 Rei 137 Serra do Cipó 125, 129
Museu Cais do Sertão (Recife) 221 Museu da República (Rio de Serra dos Órgãos 107, 119
Museu Casa do Diamante Janeiro) 79 Sete Cidades 250, 253
(Diamantina) 128 Museu Rodin-Bahia (Salvador) 197 Superagui 343
Museu Casa de Pedra (Caxias do Museu SACACA (Macapá) 275 Tijuca 12, 87, 92
Sul) 361 Museu de Santarém 278, 279 Ubajara 231, 245
Museu Casa de Rui Barbosa (Rio Museu Seleção Brasileira (Barra da Negro, Rio 281, 284, 288, 289
de Janeiro) 85 Tijuca) 90–91 Neo-Classical architecture 32
Museu das Cavalhadas Museu Tempostal (Salvador) 192 Nestrovski, Arthur 146
(Pirenópolis) 312 Museu Théo Brandão (Maceió) Netherlands 54–5
Museu do Ceará (Fortaleza) 246 218–19 Neves, Tancredo 62, 63
Museu Ferroviário (São João del Museu Villa-Lobos (Rio de Janeiro) Newspapers 417
Rei) 137 85 Niemeyer, Oscar 33, 299
Museu do Futbol (São Paulo) 13, Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco Belo Horizonte 125, 129
148–9 Brennand (Recife) 223 Brasília 297, 298, 306
Museu da Gentre Sergipana Oi Futuro Ipanema (Rio de Catedral Metropolitana Nossa
(Aracaju) 216 Janeiro) 79 Senhora Aparecida (Brasília) 307,
Museu Histórico e Arqueológico Palacete Provincial (Manaus) 284 309
(Iguape) 174–5 Palácio Rio Branco 292–3 Catedral Militar de Nossa Senhora
Museu Histórico Nacional (Rio de Pinacoteca de São Paulo 13, da Paz (Brasília) 308
Janeiro) 78 144–5 Congreso Nacional e Anexos
Museu da Imagem e do Som Solar do Unhão (Salvador) 13 (Brasília) 307
(Copacabana) 82 Usina do Gasômetro (Porto Museu de Art Contemporãnea
Museu da Imigração Japonesa Alegre) 357 (Niterói) 93
(São Paulo) 149 Music 25, 36–7, 404, 405 Museu Oscar Niemeyer (Curitiba)
Museu da Imigração Polonesa Afro-Brazilian culture 180 340
(Curitiba) 333 capoeira 203, 404, 405 Palácio do Planalto (Brasília) 307
Museu do Imigrante (Bento forró 240 Parque Burle Marx (São Paulo) 153
Gonçalves) 360 frevo 221 Parque do Ibirapuera (São Paulo)
Museu Imperial (Petrópolis) 32 gaúcho 335 150, 151
Museu do Índio (Manaus) 15, 285 “The Girl from Ipanema” 83 Sambódromo (Rio de Janeiro) 69,
Museu do Índio (Rio de Janeiro) Museu da Imagem e do Som 88–9
12, 85 (Copacabana) 82 São Paulo 143
Museu do Índio Marechal Rondon Museu Villa-Lobos (Rio de Janeiro) Niterói 93
(Cuiabá) 322 85 Nóbrega, Manuel da 139
Museu da Inconfidência (Ouro repentistas 243 Northeast Brazil 177–259
Preto) 131 Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Afro-Brazilian culture 180–81
Museu Internacional de Arte Naïf São Paulo 156, 157 Bahia 185–211
(Rio de Janeiro) 12, 87 shopping in Rio de Janeiro 95 The flavors of Northeast Brazil
Museu Júlio de Castilhos (Porto shopping in São Paulo 154, 155 182–3
Alegre) 356 Música popular Brasileira 37 map 178–9
Museu de Juscelino Kubitschek Muslims 39 Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and
(Diamantina) 128 Mussolini, Benito 60 Ceará 231–47
Northeast Brazil (cont.) Orquidário Aranda (Teresópolis) 119 Paraty 14, 107, 109, 110–12
Piauí and Maranhão 249–59 Os Candangos (Giorgio) 302, 307 beaches 112
Rota do Sol beaches 241 Osório, General Manuel Luis festivals 47
Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco statue of 74 hotels 372
213–29 Otávio Rocha 361 map 111
sertão 237 Our Lady of Aparecida Day 47 restaurants 388
Northern Brazil 261–93 Ouro Preto 125, 126, 130–32 Paraty-Mirim 112
The Amazon ecosystem 264–5 hotels 373 Parintins 291
Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and restaurants 389 festivals 47
Rondônia 281–93 Street-by-Street map 130–31 Parking 423
map 262–3 Outdoor activities 402–5 Parks and gardens 401
Pará and Amapá 269–79 Bosque Papa João Paulo II
The people of Amazônia 266–7 P Memorial Polonês (Curitiba) 340
Northern Highlands 26 Paço da Alfândega (Recife) 220 Jardim Botânico (Rio de Janeiro)
Nosso Senhor do Bonfim (Salvador) Paço do Frevo (Recife) 221 12, 84
198–9 Paço Imperial (Rio de Janeiro) Jardim Botânico (São Paulo) 153
Nossa Senhora do Amparo Street-by-Street map 74 Museu Nacional (Rio de Janeiro) 88
(Teresina) 252 Padre Cícero Pilgrimage (Juazeiro Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco
Nossa Senhora de Candelária (Rio do Norte) 44 Brennand (Recife) 223
de Janeiro) Pagodinho, Zeca 36 Orquidário Aranda (Teresópolis)
Street-by-Street map 75 Palace of Justice (São Paulo) 138 119
Nossa Senhora do Carmo Palacete Provincial (Manaus) 284 Parque Aldeia do Imigrante (Nova
(Diamantina) 128 Palácio Antônio Lemos (Belém) 272 Petrópolis ) 357
Nossa Senhora das Dores (Paraty) Palácio Conde dos Arcos (Cidade de Parque Burle Marx (São Paulo) 153
111 Goiás) 314 Parque da Catacumba (Lagoa
Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo Palácio do Itamaraty (Brasília) 303, Rodrigo de Freitas) 84
(Rio de Janeiro) 74 308 Parque do Ibirapuera (São Paulo)
Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes Palácio de Justiça (Brasília) 307, 308 150–51
(Porto Alegre) 45 Palácio do Planalto (Brasília) 307, Parque Trianon (São Paulo) 148
Nossa Senhora do Rosário 308 Quinta da Boa Vista (Rio de
(Diamantina) 128 Palácio Rio Branco (Rio Branco) Janeiro) 88
Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São 292–3 Sitio Roberto Burle Marx (Barra da
Benedito (Paraty) 110 Palácio Rio Branco (Salvador) 193 Tijuca) 14, 91
Nova Jerusalém 227 Palácio Rio Negro (Manaus) 284–5 see also National parks
Nova Pádua 361 Palácio Rio Negro (Petrópolis) 116 Parliament buildings (Brasília) 33
Nova Petrópolis 357 Palm trees 255 Parnaíba, Rio 255
Novo Airão 289 Palmares, Quilombo dos 219 Parque Ambiental Chico Mendes 293
Nunes, Clara 36 Palmas 114, 314 Parque Ambiental Encontro dos
restaurants 395 Rios 252
O Pancetti, José Parque dos Atletas 91
O Obelisco aos Heroís de 32 (São Serie Bahia Musa da Paz 144 Parque das Aves (Iguaçu) 15, 346
Paulo) 151 Pantanal 15, 26, 319, 324–5 Parque Burle Marx (São Paulo) 153
Óbidos 279 flora and fauna 301 Parque do Caracol 358
Oca do Ibirapuera (São Paulo) 151 map 324–5 Parque das Dunas (Natal) 240
Oceanário (Aracaju) 216 wildlife 29 Parque Estadual de Canudos 210
Off-road driving 402–3, 405 Pantanal Matogrossense, Parque Parque Estadual de Marumbi 341
Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco Nacional do 324 Parque da Ferradura 358
Brennand (Recife) 223 Pão de Açúcar (Rio de Janeiro) 80 Parque do Ibirapuera (São Paulo) 13
Ohtake, Ruy 33, 145 Paquetá, Ilha 93 Parque da Independência (São
Hotel Unique (São Paulo) 150 Pará and Amapá 269–79 Paulo) 152
Ohtake, Tomie 34, 147 Belém 272–3 Parque Nacional dos Aparados da
Pintura 145 hotels 378 Serra 353, 354, 362
Oi Futuro Ipanema (Rio de Janeiro) map 270–71 Parque Nacional de Chapada
79 restaurants 394 Diamantina 13, 208–9
Oktoberfest (Blumenau) 44 Paraguayan War (1864–70) 57 Parque Nacional Chapada dos
Olho de Boi 121 Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and Veadeiros 303, 304, 316–17
Olinda 212, 214, 224–6 Ceará 231–47 Parque Nacional das Emas 315
Carnaval 226 Fortaleza 246–7 Parque Nacional do Iguaçu 344, 346
hotels 376 hotels 376–7 Parque Nacional Iguazú 15, 347
map 224–5 João Pessoa 234–5 Parque Nacional do Itatiaia 107, 108,
restaurants 392 map 232–3 115
Oliveira, General Diego Luiz de 202 restaurants 393 Parque Nacional Jaú 289
Ondina 198 Rota do Sol beaches 241 Parque Nacional do Lençóis
Opening hours sertão 237 Maranhenses 254–5
banks 414 Paraiso, Lagoa do 245 Parque Nacional Marinho de
shops 94, 154, 398 Paraná see Santa Catarina and Abrolhos 185, 205
Opera Paraná Parque Nacional Marinho de
Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Paranaguá 342 Fernando de Noronha 213, 228
Orellana, Francisco de 32 hotels 381 Parque Nacional de Monte Roraima
Orixás 181 restaurants 396 292
Parque Nacional do Pantanal Phones 416, 417 Portuguese language 408

Matogrossense 324 Photo identification 413 classes 404, 405
Parque Nacional Serra da Canastra Piauí and Maranhão 249–59 Post, Frans 34, 78, 147, 223
66, 125, 127, 137 Delta do Parnaíba and Parque Postal services 417
Parque Nacional de Serra do Nacional dos Lençóis Pottery on Ilha de Marajó 274
Capivara 252–3 Maranhenses 254–5 Pousadas 366, 368, 369
Parque Nacional Serra do Cipó 125, hotels 377 Praça da Matriz (Porto Alegre)
129 map 250–51 356–7
Parque Nacional da Serra dos Parque Nacional de Serra da Praça da República (Recife)
Órgãos 107, 119 Capivara 252–3 222
Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades restaurants 393–4 Praça da Sé (Salvador) 193
250, 253 São Luís 256–8 Praça dos Três Poderes (Brasília)
Parque Nacional de Superagui 343 Picãozinho, Ilha de (João Pessoa) 235 308
Parque Nacional da Tijuca 12, 87, 92 Picasso, Pablo 146, 147, 152 Praça XV de Novembro (Rio de
Parque Nacional de Ubajara 231, Pignatari, “Baby” 153 Janeiro)
245 Pinacoteca de São Paulo 13, 144–5 Street-by-Street map 74–5
Parque Trianon (São Paulo) 148 Pinga Festival (Paraty) 47 Praia da Atalaia 229
Passports 408, 409 Pinheiros (São Paulo) Praia Atalaia Nova 216
Pátio do Colégio (São Paulo) 12, 142 restaurants 390 Praia Azeda 121
Paul VI, Pope 38, 309 Pintura (Ohtake) 145 Praia Azedinha 121
Paulistanos 31, 151 Piquet, Nelson 25 Praia da Barra da Tijuca 90
Pavilhão Japonès (São Paulo) 150 Pirenópolis 297, 303, 312–13 Praia de Boa Viagem 199
Pavlova, Anna 77, 273 festivals 46 Praia Brava 121
Pedra Azul 107, 123 map 313 Praia do Cabo Branco 234
Pedra Furada 245 Pius XII, Pope 86 Praia do Camburí 122
Pedro I, Dom 56 Planetarium Praia do Cepilho 112
Brasília 308 São Paulo City 150 Praia da Costa 122
Jardim Zoológico (Rio de Janeiro) Poço das Andorinhas 112 Praia de Cumbuco 247
88 Poço Encantado 209 Praia Deserta 343
Museu Paulista do Ipiranga (São Poconé Praia da Ferradura 121
Paulo) 152 hotels 379 Praia de Fora 112
Petrópolis 116 Police 412–13, 423 Praia do Forte 206–7, 211
portrait of 118 Politics 23–4 hotels 375
tomb 152 Ponta Negra 241 Praia do Francês 218
Pedro II, Dom 56, 58 Population 24, 30–31 Praia do Futuro 247
Cog train (Rio de Janeiro) 87 The gaúcho life 334–5 Praia do Gunga 219
Ilha Fiscal 92 multicultural Southern Brazil 332–3 Praia de Iracema 247
Museu Nacional (Rio de Janeiro) 88 The people of Amazônia 266–7 Praia do Jabaquara 112
Palácio Imperial (Petrópolis) Por quilo restaurants 383 Praia João Fernandes 121
118–19 Pororoca wave 279 Praia João Fernandinho 121
Petrópolis 116 Portinari, Candido 34 Praia Joaquina 351
São Félix 201 Estacão Pinacoteca (São Paulo) Praia de Maresias 169
statue of 108 146 Praia do Meio (Fernando de
throne 77 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis Noronha) 228
tomb 116 (Belo Horizonte) 129 Praia do Meio (Guarapari) 122
trains 137 Mayrink Chapel 92 Praia do Meio (Paraty) 112
Peixoto, Floriano 298 Museu de Arte Contemporânea Praia de Meireles (Fortaleza)
Pelé 25, 40, 41, 172, 173 (São Paulo) 152 247
Pelourinho (Salvador) 13, 184, 185 Museu de Arte de São Paulo 147 Praia Mole 351
Street-by-Street map 190–91 Porto Alegre 331, 356–7 Praia do Morro 122
Penedo 217 airport 419 Praia das Pedrinhas 175
Peninsula de Maraú 202 climate 48 Praia da Penha 200
Peninsula da Ponta da Fortaleza festivals 45 Praia da Pipa 241
168 hotels 381 hotels 377
Peoples of Brazil 30–31 map 356 restaurants 393
Pequenos Lençóis 255 restaurants 397 Praia do Pontal 112
Pereira Leal, Inácio 312 Porto da Barra 198 Praia Prainha (Rio de Janeiro)
Pereira dos Santos, Vitalino 227 Porto Camará 274 91
Perequê 169 Porto de Galinhas 219 Praia do Rosado 243
Pernambuco see Sergipe, Alagoas hotels 376 Praia do Sagi 241
and Pernambuco restaurants 392 Praia Sítio do Conde 211
Pescadores do Rio Vermelho Porto Maravilha (Rio) 76 Praia da Tabatinga 241
(Salvador) 45 Porto Seguro 205 Praia Taipús de Fora 202
Petrobras 22, 23, 61 Porto Velho 293 Praia Tambaba 235
Petrópolis 12, 67, 116–19 hotels 379 Praia de Tambaú 234
hotels 372 restaurants 394–5 Praia Vermelha do Norte 168
map 116–17 Portuguese colonists 21, 24, 30, Praia Vermelha do Sul 168
Palácio Imperial 118–19 52–3, 54 Praia do Viareggio 175
restaurants 388 history 51 Prainha 204
Pharmacies 410 religion 38 Pré Cajú (Aracaju) 45
Prehistoric sites Rembrandt 147 Rio de Janeiro (cont.)

Cariri 236 Renting cars 422, 423 favelas 89
pottery on Ilha de Marajó 274 Repentistas 243 festivals 45
Monte Alegre 279 Republic Proclamation Day 47 flight duration chart 421
Parque Nacional de Serra do Reserva Biologica do Guaporé 293 history 54, 55
Capivara 252–3 Restaurants 382–97 hotels 370–71
Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades alcohol and drinks 383 map 72–3
253 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and Morro do Corcovado and Cristo
Souza 236 Rondônia 394–5 Redentor 86–7
Presidente Figueiredo 288 Bahia 391–2 Praça XV de Novembro and
Preto, Rio 316 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 395 Centro: Street-by-Street map 74–5
Processão do Bom Jesus dos children in 383 restaurants 386–8
Navegantes (Salvador) 45 churrascaria rodízio (barbecue shopping 94–5
Processão dos Navegantes (Angra houses) 383 Street Finder 100–105
dos Reis) 45 dress code 382 Sugar Loaf Mountain 80–81
Procissão do Fogaréu (Cidade de The flavors of Brazil 384–5 travel in 426–7
Goiás) 46 The flavors of Northeast Brazil two days in Rio de Janeiro 12
Projac-TV Globo (Barra da Tijuca) 91 182–3 Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo
Projeto Tamar 168, 211 food hygiene 383 107–23
Protestantism, Evangelical 38–9 local eating habits 382 Beaches of Costa do Sol 120–21
Prudentópolis 333 Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Costa Verde 114
Public holidays 47 Sul 395 hotels 372–3
Public toilets 409 Minas Gerais 388–9 map 108–9
Puerto Iguazú (Argentina) 347 Pará and Amapá 394 Mata Atlântica 113
Puppets Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and Paraty 110–12
Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro 68 Ceará 393 Petrópolis 116–19
International Puppet Theater paying and tipping 382 restaurants 388
Festival 47 Piauí and Maranhão 393–4 Rio Preto waterfall 304, 310–11
Museu do Mamulengo (Olinda) por quilo 383 Rivaldo 40
225, 226 Rio de Janeiro 386–8 Roads 423
Rio de Janeiro State and Espírito Transamazônica 62, 63, 272
Q Santo 388 Rocha, José Joaquim da 34, 197
Quadros, Janio 62 Rio Grande do Norte and Ceará Rocha, Paulo Mendes de 144
Quartel General do Exército (Brasília) 393 Rock art
306, 308 Rio Grande do Sul 397 Cariri 236
Queimada dos Britos 254 Santa Catarina and Paraná 396 Monte Alegre 279
Quilombos 219 São Paulo 389–90 Parque Nacional de Serra do
Quinta da Boa Vista (Rio de Janeiro) São Paulo State 391 Capivara 252–3
88 Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades
Quintana, Mário 357 392–3 253
Quitandinha (Petrópolis) 117 smoking 383 Rodeos 335
vegetarian meals 383 Rodin, Auguste
R see also Food and drink Génio do Repouso Eterno 145
Racing see Horse racing; Motor Resurrection of Christ (Raphael) 147 Museu Rodin-Bahia (Salvador) 197
racing Reveillon at Copacabana (Rio de Rodrigo de Freitas, Lagoa 12, 84
Radio 417 Janeiro) 45 Rolla, Joaquim 117
Rafting 403 Reynolds, Joshua 147 Romârio 40, 41
Railway stations Ribeiro, Darcy 35 Ronaldinho 40
Estação da Luz (São Paulo) 146 Riberão da Ilha 350 Ronaldo 40, 41
Railways see Trains Rio Branco 262, 281, 292–3 Rondónia see Amazonas, Roraima,
Rainforest see Amazônia; Mata climate 48 Acre and Rondônia
Atlântica hotels 379 Roraima see Amazonas, Roraima,
Rally dos Sertões 47 restaurants 394 Acre and Rondônia
Raphael Rio Grande do Norte see Paraíba, Rio Roraima, Monte 262, 292
Resurrection of Christ 147 Grande do Norte and Ceará Rota do Sol beaches 241
Rappeling Rio Grande do Sul 353–63 Rousseff, Dilma 23, 63
Chapada Diamantina 209 hotels 381 Rubber trees 264, 278
Recife 213, 220–23 map 354–5 Rubens, Peter Paul 147
airport 419 Porto Alegre 356–7 Rules of the road 423
climate 49 restaurants 397
festivals 44 São Miguel das Missões 363 S
flight duration chart 421 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Sabinada Rebellion (1837–38) 56
hotels 376 Rio de Janeiro 11, 14, 15, 21, 67, Saco de Mamanguá 112
map 220–21 71–105 Safaris 402, 405
restaurants 392–3 airport 419 Safety 412–13
Recifolia (Recife) 44 Barra 90–91 beaches 43
Reentrâncias Maranhenses 259 Cariocas 31, 71 food hygiene 383
Religion 24, 38–9, 409 Carnaval 68–9 pedestrians 426
Afro-Brazilian culture 181 climate 49 São Paulo 159
see also Candomblé entertainment 96–9 women travelers 409
Sailing 403 São João (Caruaru and Campina Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco
Ilhabela Sailing Week 47 Grande) 47 (cont.)
Sala São Paulo 146 São João del Rei 136–7 Olinda 224–6
Salgado, Sebastião 34 São Joaquim Recife 220–23
Salinópolis 274 festivals 46 restaurants 392–3
Salles, Walter 25 São Josafat (Prudentópolis) 333 Serie Bahia Musa da Paz (Pancetti)
Salobrinho, Rio 326 São Luís 178, 249, 251, 256–8 144
Salvador 15, 179, 185, 188–99 festivals 47 Serra da Canastra, Parque Nacional
airport 419 flight duration chart 421 66, 125, 127, 137
Atlantic coast 198–9 hotels 377 Serra do Capivara, Parque Nacional
Carnaval 197 restaurants 394 de 252–3
climate 49 Street-by-Street map 256–7 Serra do Cipó, Parque Nacional 125,
festivals 45 São Mateus (Ceschiatti) 309 129
flight duration chart 421 São Miguel das Missões 330, 363 hotels 373
hotels 375 hotels 381 Serra Gaúcha 22, 333, 353
Igreja e Convento de São São Paulo 14, 21, 66, 139–63 Serra da Graciosa 341
Francisco 194–5 airport 419 Serra do Mar (Angra dos Reis) 114
map 188–9 climate 49 Serra do Mar (Serra da Graciosa) 341
Pelourinho: Street-by-Street map crime 159 Serra dos Órgãos, Parque Nacional
190–91 entertainment 156–7 107, 119
restaurants 391 Fashion Week 149 Serra Pelada 269
two days in Salvador 13 festivals 44–7 Sertão 27, 237
Salvaterra 274 flight duration chart 421 wildlife 28
Samba 36 hotels 373–4 Sete Cidades, Parque Nacional de
Rio de Janeiro 68, 97, 99 map 140–41 250, 253
Sambódromo and Cidade do Museu de Arte de São Paulo Seurat, Georges 147
Samba (Rio de Janeiro) 88–9 (MASP) 147 Shoe shops
Samba Schools 404 music 37 Rio de Janeiro 95
Sambódromo (Rio de Janeiro) 69, Parque do Ibirapuera 150–51 Shopping 398–9
88–9 Paulistanos 31 arts and crafts 399
Santa Catarina, Ilha de 350–51 Pinacoteca de São Paulo 144–5 food and drink 399
map 350–51 restaurants 389–90 gems 399
Santa Catarina and Paraná 337–51 shopping 154–5 how to pay 398
Florianópolis and Ilha de Santa Street finder 158–63 markets and camélodromos 398–9
Catarina 350–51 travel in 426–7 opening hours 94, 154, 398
Foz do Iguaçu 344–7 two days in São Paulo 12–13 Rio de Janeiro 94–5
hotels 380–81 São Paulo Art Biennial 44 São Paulo 154–5
map 338–9 São Paulo Fashion Week 46 shopping centers and
restaurants 396 São Paulo International Film Festival hypermarkets 398
Serra da Graciosa 341 44 Silva, Benedita da 62
Santa Elena de Uairén 292 São Paulo State 165–75 Silva, Bernardo Pires da 134
Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos coast 66 Silva, Francisca (Chica) da 128
(Paraty) 110 hotels 374 Silva, Francisco Joaquim
Santa Teresa (Rio de Janeiro) 78 map 166–7 Béthencourt da 85
hotels 371 restaurants 391 Silva, Leônidas 40
restaurants 388 São Pedro 169 Siqueira Campos, José Wilson 314
Santander Cultural (Porto Alegre) São Pedro dos Clérigos (Recife) Sitio Roberto Burle Marx (Barra da
357 32 Tijuca) 14, 91
Santarém 263, 269, 270, 278–9 São Sebastião 14, 168–9 Slav immigrants 333
hotels 378 restaurants 391 Slaves 24, 54
Santo Amaro 200 São Silvestre Race (São Paulo) 45 abolition of slavery 57
festivals 46 São Vicente 173 Afro-Brazilian culture 180–81
Santo Amaro, Lagoa de 254 Sapiranga Reserve 211 capoeira 203
Santo Antônio de Lisboa 350 Saquarema 120 Salvador 185
Santo Daime 39 Sater, Almir 313 Santo Amaro 200
Santos 172–3 Sattamini, João 93 Smoking
hotels 374 Scholz, Waldemar 285 in restaurants 383
Santos Dumont, Alberto The Schoolboy (Van Gogh) 147 Snorkeling 403
Casa de Santos Dumont Scliar, Moacyr 35, 39 Soccer 25, 40–41, 401
(Petrópolis) 117 Scuba diving 403 Estádio do Maracanã (Rio de
Santos-São Paulo Railroad 57 Security 412–13 Janeiro) 88
Santuário Dom Bosco (Brasília) 308 Segall, Lasar 34, 146 Memorial das Conquistas (Santos)
Santuário Santo Antônio do Semana Santa 46 173
Valongo (Santos) 172, 173 Senna, Ayrton 25 Museu do Futbol (São Paulo) 13,
Santuário de Vida Silvestre Fazenda Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco 148–9
Vagafogo (Pirenópolis) 313 213–29 Museu Seleção Brasileira (Barra da
São Cristóvão 216 Fernando de Noronha 228–9 Tijuca) 90–91
São Félix 201 festivals 46 Pelé 172, 173
São Francisco, Rio 213, 214, 217, hotels 375–6 Rio de Janeiro 98, 99
218, 237 map 214–15 São Paulo 157
Soccer (cont.) Taxis 426 Trains (cont.)

training sessions 404, 405 air taxis 420 Museu Ferroviário (São João del
World Cup 40, 59, 61, 62, 63 airport 419 Rei) 137
Sociedade Hípica Brasileira (Lagoa Teatro Amazonas (Manaus) 10, 15, Tren Ecológico (Foz do Iguaçu)
Rodrigo de Freitas) 84 33, 263, 286–7 345
Sócrates 41 Teatro José de Alencar (Fortaleza) Trancoso 205
Solano Lopez, Francisco 57 246 hotels 375
Solar do Unhão (Salvador) 13, 196 Teatro da Paz (Belém) 272–3 Transamazônica (Trans-Amazon
Solimões, Rio 281, 289 Teatro de Pirenópolis 313 Highway) 62, 63, 272
see also Amazon river Telephones 416, 417 Transcoso
Souré 274 Television 417 restaurants 392
Sousa, Manuel Rabello de 133 Telles, Lygia Fagundes 35 Travel 418–27
Sousa, Martim Alfonso da 52 Templo da Boa Vontade (Brasília) air 418–21
Sousa, Tomé de 54, 193 308 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and
Southeast Brazil 65–175 Templo Busshinji (São Paulo) 149 Rondônia 282
map 66–7 Tennis 25 Bahia 187
Minas Gerais 125–37 Terena villages 326 boats 424–5
Rio de Janeiro 71–105 Teresa Cristina, Empress 88, 252 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 305
Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo tomb 116 buses 422, 427
107–23 Teresina 249, 252–3 cars 422–3
São Paulo 139–63 hotels 377 in cities 426–7
São Paulo State 165–75 restaurants 393 Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do
Southern Brazil 329–63 Teresópolis 119 Sul 321
Foz do Iguaçu 344–7 Terreiro de Jesus (Salvador) 190 metro 426–7
The gaúcho life 334–5 Thaler, Andreas 333 Ouro Preto 126
map 330–31 Theater 400 Pará and Amapá 271
multicultural Southern Brazil 332– Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and
3 Theatro Municipal (Rio de Janeiro) Ceará 233
Rio Grande do Sul 353–63 12, 77 Piauí and Maranhão 251
Santa Catarina and Paraná 337– Theatro Municipal (São Paulo) 143 Rio de Janeiro 73
51 Theft 412 Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo
Serra da Graciosa 341 São Paulo 159 109
Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Theme parks 401 Rio Grande do Sul 355
Souza 236 Tibaú do Sul 241 Salvador 189
Souza, Tome de 190 hotels 377 Santa Catarina and Paraná 339
Specialized holidays 402–5 restaurants 393 São Paulo City 141
Spiritism 39 Ticuna community 30 Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco
Sport 25 Tijuca, Parque Nacional da 12, 87, 92 215
Brazilian beach culture 43 Time zones 409 taxis 426
see also Soccer Tintoretto 147 trains 424, 425
Spring in Brazil 44 Tipping Travel agencies 419
Statues in hotels 367 Traveler’s checks 415
Cristo Redentor (Rio de Janeiro) in restaurants 382 in hotels 366
12, 21, 86–7 Tiradentes 136 Travessa do Comércio (Rio de
Steckel, Frederico 93 festivals 47 Janeiro) 75
Stockler, Cristiano 146 hotels 373 Trees
Sucuri, Rio 321, 327 restaurants 389 Buriti palm trees 255
Sugar 54, 58 Tiradentes (rebel) 55, 130 Tren Ecológico (Foz do Iguaçu)
Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco statue of 130 345
213 Tiradentes Day 47 Treze Tilias 333
Sugar Loaf Mountain (Rio de Titian 147 Trindade 112
Janeiro) 12, 70, 80–81 Tocantins see Brasília, Goiás and Tropical (Malfatti) 145
Summer in Brazil 45 Tocantins Tropical diseases 410
Sun protection 411 Toilets, public 409 Tropicalismo 37
Superagui, Ilha de 343 Toque Toque Grande 169 Tukano people 266
Superagui, Parque Nacional de 343 Toque Toque Pequeno 169 Tupi-Guaraní people 51
Supremo Tribunal Federal (Brasília) Tordesillas, Treaty of (1494) 51, 353 Tupinambá people 51, 53
307, 308 Torre de Malakoff (Recife) 221 Turner, JMW 147
Surfing 403 Torres 362 TV Tower (Brasília) 15, 306
Pororoca wave 279 festivals 46
The Surrender of Uruguaiana 57 Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de 147 U
Synagogues Tourist information 408, 409 Ubajara, Parque Nacional de 231,
Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue Tours by car 245
(Recife) 220–21 Vale dos Vinhedos 359 Ubatuba 14, 165, 167, 168–9
Trains 424, 425 hotels 374
T Cog train (Rio de Janeiro) 12, 87 restaurants 391
Tamoio Indians 165 The Litorina 341 Umbanda 39
Taunay, Nicolau 92 Madeira-Mamoré Museu UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Taxes Ferroviário (Porto Velho) 262, 281, Brasília 298, 306
in hotels 367 293 Cidade Goiás 303
UNESCO World Heritage Sites Vieira, Father Antônio 35, 192 Wildlife (cont.)
(cont.) Vila do Abraão 114 Amazon excursions from Manaus
Diamantina 67, 128 Vila Ilhabela 169 288–91
Foz do Iguaçu 346 Villa-Lobos, Heitor 25, 36, 77 Brazil’s flora and fauna 28–9
Itacaré 204 Museu Villa-Lobos (Rio de Janeiro) Ecoparque Sperry 358
Mata Atlântica 63, 343 85 ecotourism 402, 405
Olinda 224–6 Vila Olímpia and Itaim Bibi (São flora and fauna in the cerrado
Paraty 110 Paulo) 300–301
Parque Nacional das Emas 315 restaurants 390 flora and fauna of Pantanal 301
Parque Nacional de Serra do Vinícola Miolo Iguaçu region 345, 347
Capivara 252 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Ilha do Cardoso 175
Pelourinho (Salvador) 13, 190 Vinícola Pizzato Mata Atlântica 113
Salvador 179 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Mosaico Juréia-Itatins 174
São Luís 178, 256–7 Visas 408, 409 Pantanal 15, 29, 319, 324–5
São Miguel das Missões 363 Vitória 122 Reentrâncias Maranhenses 259
Urubuqueçaba, Ilha 164 hotels 372–3 Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo
Usina do Gasômetro (Porto Alegre) restaurants 388 107
357 Volpi, Alfredo 34 see also Aquariums; Birds; National
Composição 144 parks; Zoos
V Volunteer programs 404, 405 Wind surfing 403
Vaccinations 410 Wines 383
Vale do Paty 208 W Bento Gonçalves 360
Vale do Quilombo 358 Walking, in cities 426 Flores da Cunha 361
Vale dos Vinhedos 359 War of the Triple Alliance (1864–70) Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359
Valentim, Mestre 34, 146 57 Winter in Brazil 46–7
Van Gogh, Vincent Water, drinking 411 Women travelers 409
The Schoolboy 147 Water sports 43, 403, 405 Workers’ Party (PT, Partido dos
Vargas, Getúlio Dornelles 59, 60– Waterfalls Trabalhadores) 23, 63
61 Cachoeira da Água Branca 169 World Cup (soccer) 40, 59, 61, 62,
capoeira 203 Cachoeira Almeçegas 317 63
death 59, 79 Cachoeira d’Anta 137 World Heritage Sites see UNESCO
Confeitaria Colombo (Rio de Cachoeira do Buraçao 209 World Heritage Sites
Janeiro) 77 Cachoeira da Toca 169 World War I 58–9
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do cascading and canyoning 403 World War II 79
Outeiro (Rio de Janeiro) 79 Cascatinha do Taunay 92 Writers 34, 35
Palácio Imperial (Petrópolis) Foz do Iguaçu 15, 330, 337, 344–7
118 Parque do Caracol 358 X
Palácio Rio Negro (Petrópolis) Presidente Figueiredo 288 Xavier, José da Silva 136
116 Rio Preto 304, 310–11 Ximenes, Ettore 152
Paulistano rebellion 151 Véu de Noiva 322, 323 Xingú 323
Recife 222 Weather see Climate
Veen, Otto van 195 Wet season 26 Y
Vegetarian meals 383 Wetlands Yánez Pinzón, Vicente 51
Veiga Valle, José Joaquim da 34, Pantanal 15, 26, 29, 301, 319, 324– Yanomami people 266
314, 322 5
Velázquez, Diego de Silva y 147 Wheelchair access see Disabled Z
Veloso, Caetano 37, 200 travelers Zagury, Bob 120
Ver o Peso (Belém) 272 When to go 408 Zoos
Vespucci, Amerigo 52 Wickam, Henry 278 Jardim Zoológico (Rio de Janeiro)
Abrolhos 205 Wiedersphan, Theo 357 88
Baía de Guanabara 92 Wildlife Zoológico do CIGS (Manaus) 285
Fernando de Noronha 228 Alta Floresta 323 see also Aquariums; Wildlife
Véu de Noiva 322, 323 Amazon ecosystem 265 Zumbi 219
444  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many people Cartography Credits
whose help and assistance contributed to the preparation Base mapping for São Paulo derived from Netmaps,
of this book. and assistance from Ed Merrit.
Main Contributors Special Assistance

Shawn Blore, a Rio de Janeiro-based journalist, publishes Dorling Kindersley would like to thank José Mayrink,
travel and investigative articles in magazines and Sônia Lúcia da Costa Conrado, Leonardo A. P. Silva, and
newspapers in Canada, the USA, the UK, and elsewhere.
Adriana Teixeira for their assistance.
Dilwyn Jenkins (1957–2014) began travelling in South
America in 1976. Anthropologist, sustainable development Revisions Team
expert, and travel writer, he made documentaries for Hansa Babra, Neha Chander, Rachel Fox, Rhiannon Furbear,
television for 30 years. Lydia Halliday, Kaberi Hazarika, Huw Hennessy, Bharti
Karakoti, Sumita Khatwani, Priya Kukadia, Jude Ledger,
Oliver Marshall has been visiting Brazil regularly since 1982. Phoebe Lowndes, Alison McGill, Rada Radojicic, Alex
Specializing in travel and history, he has written extensively
Robinson, Jun Shimada, Sands Publishing Solutions,
on Latin America.
Beverly Smart.
Christopher Pickard lived in Brazil for nearly 20 years and has
written widely about the country. He is vice-chairman of the Picture Credits
Latin American Travel Association. The publisher would like to thank the following for their
kind permission to reproduce their photographs:
Alex Robinson is a travel writer and photographer with a
client list that includes Conde Nast Traveller
Traveller, Wanderlust,
Wanderlust
Footprint BBC, and Channel 4.
Footprint, Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-center; f-far;
l-left; r-right; t-top.
Neiva Augusta Silva writes for Brazilian travel guides
and magazines, as well as on adventure sports and Alta Floresta: Cristalino Jungle Lodge; Belém: Basílica
rural tourism. de Nossa Senhora de Nazaré, Teatro da Paz; Brasília:
Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida,
Fact Checkers Santuário Dom Bosco; Caxias do Sul: Museu da Casa
Alexandra de Vries, Fernanda Drummond, Stephen de Pedra; Congonhas: Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus
Wingrove de Matosinhos; Curitiba: Hotel Burbon; Diamantina:
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo; Itamaracá Island:
Proofreader Projeto Peixe Boi; João Pessoa: Igreja de São
Susanne Hillen Francisco; Manaus: Teatro Amazonas; Olinda:
Convento de São Francisco, Mosteiro de São
Indexer Bento; Ouro Preto: Casa dos Contos, Igreja de São
Hilary Bird Francisco de Assis, Matriz de Nossa Senhora da
Conceição de Antônio Dias, Museu do Aleijadinho;
Design and Editorial Paraty: Casa de Cadeia, Igreja de Nossa Senhora
Publisher Douglas Amrine do Rosário e São Benedito; Petrópolis: Museu das
Publishing Managers Jane Ewart, Scarlett O’Hara, Anna Cavalhadas, Palácio de Cristal; Piauí & Maranhâo:
Streiffert
Maranhâo State Government Tourist Board, Sea
Senior Designer Paul Jackson
Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris and Air Maranhâo; Porto Alegre: Museu de arte
Editorial Assistance Alexandra Farrell, Fay Franklin de Rio Grande do Sul, Teatro São Pedro; Recife:
DTP Designer Natasha Lu Casa da Cultura, Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand,
Picture Researcher Ellen Root Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue; Rio de Janeiro: Barra
Production Controller Shane Higgins Shopping, Blue Man, Confeitaria Colombo,
XML Coordinator Bulent Yusuf H. Stern, Museu do Índio, Museu Nacional de Belas
Artes, Nossa Senhora da Candelária, Rio Scenarium Bar;
Additional Photography Salvador: Catedral Basílica, Fundação Casa de Jorge
Geoff Brightling, Geoff Dann, Barnabus Kindersley, Amado, Igreja e Convento de São Francisco, Memorial
Cyril Laubscher, Ian O’Leary, Jose Olimpio. das Conquistas do Santos, Museu Afro-Brasileiro,
Museu Tempostal; Santos: Bolsa e Museu do Café; São
Additional Illustrations Paulo City: Igreja São Francisco de Assis, Jacaré do Brasil,
Chapel Design and Marketing Ltd. Mosteiro de São Bento de São Paulo, Museu de Arte
Contemporânea, Museu de Arte de São Paulo, Museu
Additional Picture Research de Arte Sacra de São Paulo, Museu de Arte Moderna
Julia Harris-Voss, Phoebe Lowndes, Susie Peachey, de São Paulo, Vila Madalena; Tiradentes: Igreja Matriz
Ellen Root, Lucy Sienkowska de Santo Antônio.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  445
Works of art have been reproduced with the kind Baptiste Debret 57bc; Giraudon/Museu de Arte, Sao Paulo
permission of the following copyright holders: The Slave Hunter (oil on canvas) Jean Baptiste Debret 54tl;
Giraudon/Private Collection The Funeral of the Emperor of
Alfredo Volpi, Composição (1976) 144tr; José Pancetti, Serie Brazil: The Carriage from ‘Le Petit Journal December 1891
Bahia Musa da Paz 144cl; Anita Malfatti, Tropical 145tc, Henri Meyer 58tc. Index/Museu Historico Nacional, Buenos
Almeida Júnior, Caipira Picando Fumo 145cra; Tomie Ohtake, Aires The Surrender of Uruguaiana, Candido Lopez 1865
Pintura (1969) 145crb. 57tr, 57bc; Index/Museu Historico Nacional, Rio de Janeiro
‘Independence or Death’, the Shout of Ipiranga on the 7th
4Corners: Antonino Bartuccio 336; Giordano Cipriani September 1822 Dome Pedro di Figueredo 56tl; Stapleton
406–7; Guido Cozzi 328–9; Schapowalow/Chris Seba Collection Botocudos family, Rio Grande, from Le Costume
348–9; SIME/Antonino Bartuccio 184, 206–7. Ancien et Moderne, Volume II plate 3737, Jules Ferrario,
A Casa Vidal: 391tl. published c. 1820s–30s 53tr;
Alamy Stock Photo: 1Apix 404t; age fotostock/P&R Fotos Marcio Cabral: 208c.
280; AM Corporation 149tr; Arco Images GmbH 22tl, 24br, Cais do Oriente: 386br.
325tl, /Therin-Weise 248, 258tc, 403tr; Aurora Photos/ Camarões Potiguar: 393bl.
Matthew Wakem 394bl; Ricardo Beliel 30tr; ARDUOPRESS / Capim Santo: 392tr.
Andre M Chang 152t, BrazilPhotos /Ricardo Beliel 31tl, 43br, Casa do João: 395tl.
/Nando Neves 293cb, /Marco A. Rezende 37tr, /Ricardo Sonia Conrado: 191crb.
Siqueira 107b; George Brewin 242b; Cristiano Burmester Corbis: Alinari Archives 58bc; Theo Allofs 265crb, 319b;
253cr; Gary Calton 260–61; Cephas Picture Library 359cla, Archivo Iconografico, S.A. 54crb, 56crb; Ricardo Azoury
359br; Gary Cook 181br, 287cr; David Crausby 62bc; David 97tr, 120clb, 253br; Yann Arthus Bertrand 26bc, 26br, 41cra,
Davis Photo Productions 384cla, 89br; Danita Delimont 345br; Bettmann 36tr, 58cl, 59tc, 59c, 60br, 60–61c, 62c;
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44b; Redmond Durrell 265bc; Dynamic Graphics Group/ Pierre Colombel 51bc; Andrea Comas
Creatas 182cl; Chad Ehlers 81cla; Julio Etchart 41cb; Eye 180cl; Corbis Sygma 266cra, 266cl, 266br, /Bernard Bisson
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Goldwater 267crb, 267bl; Hemis 235cr; Andrew Holt 60tr; 25cl, /Manchete 86clb; /Whitemore Hank 267cla;
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Network Photographers 286cla; niceartphoto 106; David Collart Herve 226bl; Eric and David Hosking 113clb;
Parker 212; Beren Patterson 197bl; Natalie Pecht 30–31c; Wolfgang Kaehler 264clb, 287tl; Kuba 399br; Lawrence
Pictorial Press Ltd 61tl, 81crb; Fabio Pili 350br, 351tl; Manning 52tr; Stephanie Maze 399tr; Joe McDonald
Popperfoto 40br, 41bl, 41bc, 59bc, 61tr, 172bl; Pulsar 265fcra; Wilson Melo 267cra; Diego Lezama Orezzoli 257tl;
Imagens 304cl; Ricardo Ribas 396tc; Richard Wareham Fabio Polenghi 40tr; Jose Fuste Raga 71b; Reuters/Paulo
Fotografie 345crb; robertharding 137tl; Robert Harding Whitaker 420cla, /Sergio Moraes 279tr; Kevin Schafer 113bl,
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Imagery/Yadid Levy 20; Marcelo Rudini 352; Kevin Schafer 157tr, 267tr.
29bl; Sdbphoto Brasil 335cr; Andre Seale 179b, 199br, 228br, Cristalino Jungle Lodge: Katia Kuwabara 379tl.
301cb; David South 178bl; richard sowersby 413bl; Dorling Kindersley Ltd: Andy Crawford/Courtesy of the
StockBrazil 121c, 208br, 209cl, 365tr; Sue Cunningham Football Museum, Preston 40clb.
Photographic 30cl; Angel Terry 87cr; Travelstock44 31bl, Dreamstime.com: Marcos Casiano 299crb; Dabldy 11crb,
96b; Peter Treanor 25t, 68bl, 82tl; Genevieve Vallee 252c, 63crb, 78tl; Ekaterinabelova 366b; Alexandre Fagundes De
297tr, 301cra, 315tc; Mireille Vautier 8–9, 180br; Visual Arts Fagundes 10cl, 357br; Filipe Frazao 159tr, 195tl; Eric
Library (London) 56bc; Andrew Woodley 83tl; Worldwide Gevaert 4cr; Pedro Gomes 37br; Jakazvan 303b; Katoton
Picture Library 137tr, 267cr, /Sue Cunningham 183c; 167br; Keystone-France 40cl, 40bc; Lazyllama 12bl, 13br;
Noel Yates 83tr. Giancarlo Liguori 11tl; Marchello74 70; Megumi 4tc;
Amazon Ecopark: Fabio Colombini 378bl. Antonio De Azevedo Negrão 231b; Sergey Mostovoy
Aprazivel: 388tc. 108cl, 136tl; Pixattitude 124, 302; Kseniya Ragozina 255cl;
AWL Images: Christian Heeb 364–5; Alex Robinson 138, Luis Ribeiro 155tr; Rodrigolab 76br; Celso Pupo Rodrigues
151bl, 268, 310–11, 318. 63tc; Luca Roggero 176–7; Sjors737 43bl; Samystclair 5cr;
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Bourbon Resort: 381bl. Getty Images: AFP/Mauricio Lima 35tr; AFP/Stringer 390bl;
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18th century (wood) by French School 54br; Archives 350tr; Rebeca Mello 170–71; Popperfoto 40ca;
Charmet/Bibliothéque National, Paris The Dinner, a white SambaPhoto/Eduardo Barcellos 183tl; Stone/Will & Deni
couple being served and fanned by black slaves, from McIntyre 181bl; Stringer/Atsushi Tomura 37tl; Time Life
Voyages Pictoresque et Historique au Brésil 1839 Jean Pictures 62tl; Priscila Zambotto 164.
446  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The Granger Collection, New York: 35cl, 50, 52cla, 52bl, 47tl, 120tr; André Seale 28tr, 205br, 229br, 265br; Paula
52–9c, 53tl, 53cl, 55t, 57cb, 332tr. Simas 23br; Mauricio Simonetti 29tl, 29tr, 29cl, 66ca,
Hyatt Hotels: 374tl. 127tr, 137b, 240bl, 322t, 404tr; Luciana Whitaker 93bl;
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Phototreat 298–299c; Yuri de Mesquita Bar 2–3. Robert Harding Picture Library: Holger Leue 276–7;
Koh Pee Pee Restaurant: 397br. Sakis Papadopoulos 238–9.
Lasai: 387tl. Sofitel Hotels & Resort: Christian Knepper 188cl, 190clb,
Latin Photo: Biosfera 267tl, 267br; Carlos Ortiz Fragalá 334bl. 191tc, 367bc, 399cl.
Marriott Resort & Spa: 368b. Solar dos Deuses: Alessandro Iglesias 375bl.
Mary Evans Picture Library: 53bl, 60bl. Solar dos Ventos: José Henrique Moura 376tc.
Masterfile: Mark Leibowitz 32tr; F Lukasseck 29crb; Lori Stilger: 300cla.
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Woodhouse 24tl, 29cr. Toca da Coruja: 377br.
Meia Lua: 380tl. Tyba Photographic Agency: J.R. Couto 80cl, 88bl, 90bl;
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Marcos Issa 210bl, 237cla, 337b; Zig Koch 27cr, Viana Photography: Sergio Viana 252tl.
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Phrase Book  447
Phrase Book
The Portuguese spoken in Brazil differs in various ways Useful Words
from the Portuguese spoken in Portugal. In general, Brazilian big grande granj
pronunciation tends to omit far fewer sounds, especially small pequeno pikaynoo
the sounds at the end of words, and rarely runs two words hot quente kayntsh
together, both of which are common practice in Portugal. cold frio free-oo
One feature of Brazilian Portuguese, particularly in the Rio bad mau mow
de Janeiro area, is that an “r” sound can be spoken like an “h.” good bom bong
So carro (car) may sound like “ka-hoo.” Another difference enough suficiente soofis-yayntsh
lies in the ways of saying “you.” The Portuguese form of placing open aberto abehrtoo
closed fechado fishadoo
the definite article in front of a person’s name (o João, a Cristina),
dangerous perigoso pirigohzoo
as a way of saying “you,” does not exist in Brazil, where você and safe seguro sigooroo
vocês are the most common words for “you.” The Portuguese tu is full cheio shay-oo
not used much in Brazil. A huge number of other vocabulary empty vazio vazee-oo
differences exist, many at the level of everyday speech: train is trem straight on reto rehtoo
in Brazil, comboio in Portugal; breakfast is café da manhã in Brazil, under debaixo ī
īshoo
dibīshoo
pequeno almoço in Portugal; bathroom is banheiro in Brazil, casa de over em cima ayng seema
banho in Portugal; goalkeeper is goleiro in Brazil, guarda-redes in in front of em frente de ayng frayntsh ji
Portugal; to drive is dirigir in Brazil, conduzir in Portugal. The sound behind atrás de atra
atraaJJ jih
indicated by “ī” in the phrase book is like the “i” in English word “hi.” first floor primeiro andar primayroo andar
“J” sounds like the “s” in the word “pleasure.” ground floor térreo tehrryoo
lift elevador elevadohr
toilet banheiro ban-yayroo
In an Emergency men’s dos homens dooz ohmaynsh
Help! Socorro! sookorroo women’s das mulheres dash mool-yehrish
Stop! Pare! pahree quick rápido r pidoo
ra
Call a doctor! Chame um médico! shamih oong soon cedo saydoo
eh
ehjikoo
mehjikoo late tarde tarj
Call an Chame uma shamih ooma now agora agora
ambulance! ambulância! amboolans-ya more mais mīsh
Where is the Onde é o hospital? ohnd-
ohnd-yeh oo oshpital less menos maynoosh
hospital? a little um pouco oong pohkoo
Police! Polícia! poolees-ya a lot muito mweengtoo
Fire! Fogo! f goo
foh too much demais dimīshī
īsh
I’ve been robbed Fui assaltado fwee asaltadoo entrance entrada ayntr da
ayntra
exit saída sa-eeda
Communication Essentials passport passaporte pasaportsh
Yes Sim seeng
No Não nowng Post Offices & Banks
Hello Olá ohla bank banco bankoo
How are you? Como vai? kohmoo vī bureau de (casa de) câmbio (kaza jih)
How is it going? Tudo bem/ toodoo bayng/ change kamb-yoo
tudo bom? toodo bong exchange rate taxa de câmbio tasha jih kamb-yoo
Goodbye Tchau tshow post office correio koorr -oo
koorray
See you later Até logo ateh logoo postcard cartão postal kartowng pooshtal
Excuse me Com licença kong lisaynsa postbox caixa de correio kīīsha
kī sha jih koorray-oo
koorray
I’m sorry Desculpe dishkoolp ATM caixa automática kīīsha
kī sha owtoomatshika
Thank you Obrigado (if a obrigadoo/obrigada stamp selo sayloo
man is speaking)/ cash dinheiro jeen-yayroo
obrigada (if a withdraw money tirar dinheiro tshir r jeen-yayroo
tshira
woman is speaking)
Good morning Bom dia bong jeea Shopping
Good afternoon Boa tarde boh-a tarj How much is it? Quanto é? kwantweh
Good evening/ Boa noite boh-a noh-itsh I would like… Eu quero… ay-oo kehroo
night clothes roupa rohpa
Pleased to Muito prazer mweengtoo prazayr This one Esta ehshta
meet you That one Essa ehsa
I’m fine Estou bem/ shtoh bayng/ market mercado merkadoo
tudo bem toodoo bayng supermarket Supermercado soopermerkadoo
Today Hoje ohJ Do you accept Aceitam cartão asaytowng kartowng
Yesterday Ontem ohntayng credit cards? de crédito? jih krehditoo
Tomorrow Amanhã aman-yang expensive caro karoo
What? O que? oo kay baker’s padaria padaree-a
When? Quando? kwandoo butcher’s açougue asohgee
How? Como? kohmoo chemist’s farmácia farmas-ya
Why? Por que? poorkay
Sightseeing
Useful Phrases museum museu moozay-oo
On the left/right À esquerda/direita a-shkayrda/jiray
rda/jir ta
rda/jiray art gallery galeria de arte galiree-a jih artsh
I don’t Não entendo nowng ayntayndoo national park parque nacional parkee nas-yoonal
understand beach praia prī-a
prī ī-a
Please speak Fale devagar f lee jivagar
fa park parque parkee
slowly por favor poor favohr river rio ree-oo
What’s your Qual é seu nome? kwal eh church igreja igr -Ja
igray
name? say-oo nohm cathedral catedral katidrow
My name is... Meu nome é... may-oo nohm eh district bairro ī
īrroo
bīrroo
Go away! Vá embora! va aymbora garden jardim Jardeeng
That’s fine Está bem shtah bayng tourist office informações infoormasoyngsh
Where is…? Onde está/fica…? ohnj shtah/f
shtah/feeka turísticas tooreeshtsheekash
When does the A que horas sai/ a kih orash sī/ guide guia gee-a
bus leave/arrive? chega o ônibus? ayga oo
ay
shayga guided tour excursão com guia shkoorsowng kong
ohniboosh gee-a
Is this the way Este é o aysht-yeh oo ticket bilhete/ingresso bil-yaytsh/ingrehsoo
to the…? caminho para…? kameen-yoo pra map mapa mapa
448  Phrase Book
Transport farofa farofa dish based on

manioc/cassava meal
bus ônibus ohniboosh
frango fr ngoo
fra chicken
boat barco barkoo
train trem trayng fruta froota fruit
airport aeroporto a-ayroopohrtoo grelhado gril-yadoo grilled
airplane avião av-yowng lanche lanshee snack
flight vôo voh-oo leite laytsh milk
bus station rodoviária roodohvyar-ya manteiga ay
ayga
mantayga butter
bus stop ponto de ônibus pohntoo j- muqueca de mookehka jih fish stew with
yohniboosh peixe ay
ayshee
payshee coconut milk
train station estação de trem stasowng jih trayng ovo cozido ohvoo koozeedoo hard-boiled egg
ticket passagem a
aJayng
pasaJayng pão powng bread
taxi táxi a
axee
taxee pão de queijo powng jih kay-Joo cheese cookie
subway metrô metroh pastel de carne pashteh-oo jih karnee puff-pastry patty
filled with mince
Health pastel de queijo pashteh-oo jih kay-Joo puff-pastry patty
filled with cheese
I feel bad/ill Sinto-me mal/doente seentoomih mow/
peixe ay
ayshee
payshee fish
dwayntsh
pimenta pimaynta pepper
I need to rest Preciso descansar eezoo jishkansar
ee
priseezoo
mal passado mow pasadoo rare
diarrhoea diarréia j-yarreh-ya
pharmacy farmácia farmas-ya ao ponto ow pohntoo medium
headache dor de cabeça ay
aysa
dohr jih kabaysa quindim keenjeeng coconut and egg
medicine remédio rimehd-yoo sweet
sanitary towels/ absorventes/ absoorvayntsh/ refrigerante rifrigir ntsh
rifrigira soft drink
tampons tampões tampoyngsh sal sow salt
mosquito repelente de ripelayntsh dih sorvete sohrvaytsh ice cream
repellent mosquito mooshkeetoo suco sookoo fruit juice
doctor médico eh
ehjikoo
mehjikoo vinho veen-yoo wine
condom camisinha kamizeen-ya
Time
Staying in a Hotel minute minuto minootoo
hotel hotel ohteh-oo hour hora ora
boutique hotel pousada pohzada half an hour meia hora may-a ora
guesthouse pensão paynsowng next week na próxima semana na prosima simana
hostel albergue owbehrgee last month no mês passado noo maysh pasadoo
Do you have Tem um quarto? tayng oong Monday segunda-feira sigoondanda ffayra
a room? kwartoo Tuesday terça-feira tayrsa
rsa ffayra
I have a Tenho uma reserva tayn-yoo ooma Wednesday quarta-feira kwartarta ffayra
reservation risehrva Thursday quinta-feira keenta
nta ffayra
single/double (quarto de) (kwartoo jih) Friday sexta-feira ayshta
ay
sayshta ayra
shta ffay
(room) solteiro/casal sooltayroo/kazow Saturday sábado sabadoo
shower chuveiro shoovayroo Sunday domingo doomeengoo
sheet lençol laynsoh January janeiro Janayroo
bed cama kama February fevereiro fever roo
feveray
pillow travesseiro travisayroo March março marsoo
towel toalha twal-ya April abril abree-oo
toilet paper papel higiênico papeh-oo
-oo iJ-y
iJ-yehnikoo May maio ī
ī-oo
mī-oo
June junho Joon-yoo
Eating Out July julho Jool-yoo
I want to Quero reservar… kehroo rizirvar August agosto agohshtoo
reserve… September setembro sitaymbroo
Do you have…? Tem…? tayng October outubro ohtoobroo
The bill, please A conta, por favor a kohnta, poor November novembro noov mbroo
noovay
fav r
favoh December dezembro dizaymbroo
menu cardápio/menu kardap-yoo/maynoo
wine list lista de vinhos leeshta de veen- Numbers
yoosh
glass copo kopoo 1 um/uma oong/ooma
bottle garrafa garr fa
garra 2 dois/duas doh-ish/doo-ash
fork garfo garfoo 3 três traysh
knife faca f ka
fa 4 quatro kwatroo
spoon colher kool-yehr 5 cinco seenkoo
restaurant restaurante rishtowr ntsh
rishtowra 6 seis saysh
breakfast café da manhã kaf da man-yang
kafeh 7 sete seht
lunch almoço owmohsoo 8 oito oh-itoo
dinner/supper jantar Jantar 9 nove novee
(mineral) water água (mineral) agwa (minerow)
ow
ow) 10 dez dehsh
vegetarian vegetariano vigitar-yanoo 11 onze ohnzee
Is service O serviço está oo sirveesoo shtah 12 doze dohzee
included? incluído? inklweedoo 13 treze trayzee
ayzee
tray
14 catorze katohrzee
Menu Decoder 15 quinze keenzee
açúcar asookar sugar 16 dezesseis ay
aysh
dizesaysh
alho al-yoo garlic 17 dezessete dizesehtee
arroz arrohsh rice 18 dezoito dizoh-itoo
azeite azaytsh olive oil 19 dezenove dizenovee
batatas fritas batatash freetash chips 20 vinte veentee
bebida bibeeda drink 21 vinte e um veentih-oong
bem passado bayng pasadoo well done 30 trinta treenta
bife beefee steak 40 quarenta kwar nta
kwaray
café kaf
kafeh coffee 50 cinqüenta sinkwaynta
carne karnee beef 60 sessenta sesaynta
cerveja ay
ayJa
sirvayJa beer 70 setenta setaynta
chá sha tea 80 oitenta oh-itaynta
churrasco shoorr shkoo
shoorra barbecue 90 noventa nohv nta
nohvay
feijão (preto) fayJowng
ng (pr
(praytoo) (black) beans 100 cem, cento sayng/sayntoo
feijoada fayJwada bean and meat stew 1000 mil mee-oo

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Southeast Brazil 64 Where to Stay 366 Practical Information 408

Wooden mask from

The Modernist Catedral Metropolitana Nossa

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

each sight is easy to locate within

the chapter as it follows the

numerical order on the map.

Country maps show the location

140  SOUTHEAST BRAZIL S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y  141

Exploring São Paulo City

For easy reference, the sights

Nov), Festa da Primavera (Sep).

are numbered and located on

Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC). The commercial districts of

posh neighborhood, Jardins, is lined with South America’s finest shops

a map. The main streets, bus

and restaurants. Another upscale area, Vila Mariana, is home to Parque S

do Ibirapuera, a green oasis among the relentless high-rises.

stations and railway stations,

Q UEI RÓS Guarulhos

A AV VIT 6 miles (10 km)

parking areas and tourist offices

Towns & Neighborhoods

República São Bento

are also shown. Sights in the city

7 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil CONSOLAÇÃO

8 Edifício Itália Pedro II

0 Pinacoteca do Estado pp144–5 TABOÃO

q Museu Arte Sacra AÇ de Sé SAO

centre are also shown on the

t Museu de Arte de São Paulo

Street Finders for Rio de Janerio

p Museu Paulista do Ipiranga

o Parque do Ibirapuera pp150–51

City (see pp100–105) and for São

NA Trianon Area of the main map

Paulo City (see pp158–63).

2 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis

148 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y 149

Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s mansion itself is

community, their origins, and roof. Visitors are welcome to

sights by category: churches, cathedrals,

monastaries, historic buildings, museums,

parks, gardens, streets, and neighborhoods. y Avenida Paulista

telephone numbers, opening

hours, admission charges, and

information on how to get there

symbols is shown on the back flap.

the history and are given on the Regional Map at

282  NORTHERN BRAZIL

Exploring Amazonas, Roraima,

of the whole region. All

visit are numbered and

there are useful tips on

9,888 ft (3,014 m) Catrimani ap

Cur São João xi

Novo Tucandera Moura

Içá Fonte Boa PARINTINS Peak

São Paulo Amataurá Manacapuru

Carauari Co Novo Aripuanã

Story boxes explore some of

Towns & Cities