Plastering, Pointing Painting

PLASTERING , POINTING , PAINTING
CONSTRUCTION (RAR 302)

INTRODUCTION :
After the completion and making the building infrastructure strong in order to
save it and its fittings from the effect of weather, and to give it an attractive look,
the plaster, painting and polishing work is to be done.
OBJECTIVES : After going through this lesson, you will be able to:
• explain what is the necessity of plaster in inside and outside the buildings and
the rooms;
• describe the types of plaster;
• describe the precautions to be taken while covering the infrastructure
through these processes;
• describe the process and varieties of covering and making a building attractive.
AR. RAJ KUMAR SHARMA 2

APEEJAY SCHOOL OF ARCHITECTURE AND PLANNING
PLASTERING

OBJECTIVES OF PLASTERING

REQUIREMENTS OF GOOD PLASTER

TYPES OF MORTARS FOR PLASTERING

TYPES OF MORTARS FOR PLASTERING

METHODS OF PLASTERING
METHODS OF PLASTERING: There are basically three
types of plastering i.e. lime plaster and cement plaster or
combination of both. Before plastering, however, the
back ground should be prepared since the adhesion of
plaster is highly affected by the back ground. Hence at
first back ground is prepared.
•Preparation of Background:
•All masonry joints should be raked 10 mm in case of
brick masonry and 15 mm in case of stone masonry for
providing key to the plaster before onset of plastering
operation.
•All mortar drops, dusts and freshly laid concrete or
laitance should be removed with the help of a stiff brush.
Rendering is applied after any existing unevenness is
removed.
•For a three coat finishes the local projection should not be more than 10 mm
and local depression should not exceed 20 mm. For two coat plaster these
limitations are reduced to 5 and 10 mm respectively.
•The surface should be kept damp for suction and it should be cleaned 1st.The
surface should not be kept soaked and neither it should be kept less wet so as to
cause strong suction which withdraws the water from mortar and makes it weak
and porous.
•During the application of plaster on old surface, all dirt, oil, paint etc should be
removed along with complete removal of all loose and crumbling plaster to its
full thickness. The back ground of the plaster should be exposed clearly before
new plaster is applied. The surface should be kept damp to maintain optimum
suction.

LIME PLASTER
After preparation of back ground, lime plaster is applied in three coats
normally. However, two coats of plaster may be applied too. They are
discussed as follows:
1. Three Coat Plaster:
Rendering coat: This is the very first coat applied to the back ground
and its thickness is normally of 12 mm. However, this thickness may
increase as per surface unevenness. This plaster coat covers all the
irregularities and is pressed against the wall forcibly by the help of
trowel. This coat is allowed to harden for seven days and cured well.
The surface is already made scratched just after the work is over and
the surface is little bit set.
Floating coat: The rendering coat is cleaned and the floating is applied. Then the
patches of 15cm × 15cm or 10 cm wide strip is made for acting as gauge followed by
throwing of mortar with the help of mason’s trowel which is later spread with the
help of wooden float. which is cured for 10 days approximately to obtain a set
surface.
Finishing coat: As discussed above, the finishing coat follows immediately after the
floating coat while in case of lime-surkhi plaster, it’s applied after getting a set and
little hard surface. The lime cream to cement ratio is kept 4:1 in finishing coat which
is applied with the steel trowel and made smoothen. The surface is left for one day
for drying and then cured for seven days.
Two Coat Plaster: This is nothing but combination of all three coats but the
rendering and floating coat is applied at a time with out any gap in between the
operation. Also the thickness of the combined coat is kept 12 mm and the finishing
coat is finished thereafter.

CEMENT AND CEMENT-LIME PLASTER
1. Two Coat Plaster:
•The back ground is prepared by raking the surface up to 20 mm depth, followed
by cleaning operation of the surface and watering it.
•For very uneven surface, a preliminary coat is applied to even it and to fill the
voids.
•The 1st coat or rendering coat is applied which thickness is equal to the specified
thickness of plaster less 2 to 3 mm. In order to maintain uniformity, screeds are
formed on the surface by fixing dots of size 15 cm × 15 cm where vertical line
spacing of 2m is kept in between them.
The final coat may be of 2-3 mm thickness. Before application of the final coat, the
rendering coat is damped evenly. The final coat is applied with a float and finishing
is done using trowel. The coat should be done from top to bottom and should be
done in one single operation to eliminate the joint marks.
Three Coat Plaster:
Three coat plaster is quite similar to that of three coat plaster of lime mortar.
The procedure of applying the three coat plaster is same as two coat plaster
except one intermediate coat or floating coat is applied. Its purpose is to bring
the plaster surface in to more even and more protection to the plaster surface.
Hence it’s generally done on the outer surfaces. The thickness of rendering,
floating, and finishing coat is 9-12, 6-9 and 2-3 mm respectively which may be
revised as per the requirements. The floating coat is applied 4-7 days after
applying the 1st coat. The finishing coat may be applied after 6-7 hours of
application of floating coat.
Single Coat Plaster: This is applied for inferior works. It’s same as two coat
plaster except the finishing coat. The rendering coat after sufficiently hardens
become the 1st and final coat. The rendering coat therefore should be polished
and made even with high quality of workmanship.

CONSUMPTION OF CEMENT IN CEMENT PLATER

PLASTER ON LATH Lathing may be either of wood or
that of expanded metal. Wooden lath consists of thin
strips of well seasoned wood, about 25mm .in width
and 90 to 120cm

STUCCO PLASTERING
• This is special type of plaster.
• Stucco is the name given to a decorative type of
plaster which provides an excellent finish like that
with marble lining.
• After preparing the surface, stucco plastering is
applied in three coats.
• Each coat should be permitted to dry
thoroughly before applying the next coat.

STUCCO PLASTERING
• For internal surface, the first coat also known as scratch coat consists of lime
plaster 12 mm in thickness.
• The second coat or brown coat consists of rich lime plastering in 10 mm
thickness.
• The final coat or finishing coat consists of a mixture of very fine lime and white
ground stone ( marble or quartz), 3 mm in thickness.
• It is carefully polished with a bag of linen containing moist chalk in the first
instance and then chalk and oil.
• The surface is then finally finished by rubbing it with only oil as to make it
smooth and bright.

STUCCO PLASTERING
• For external surfaces, the first and second coats are 10 to12 mm thick and the
finishing coat is 3 to 6 mm thick.
• The proportion of ingredients for the first two coats is 1 part of cement to 3
parts of sand with 10% by weight of hydrated lime.
• The finishing coat consists of 1 part of cement and 2 pars of sand in which
some coloring pigment is added or colored cement is used.

STUCCO PLASTERING
• Method of applying this plaster
is same as described in case of
cement or lime plastering.
• Suitability: This type of
plastering is suitable for external
as well as internal surfaces of
buildings to provide an excellent
finish.

TYPES OF PLASTERING:
Following types of plastering is generally adopted in practice. Most of them are
termed as per their finishing. Others are as per their number of coats and resisting
capacity. They are described as below.
Smooth cast plaster or plain face plaster

•This finish is just similar to sand faced finish except fine grained sand is used
instead of coarse grain sand and the ratio of cement to sand is kept 1:3.
•In this case no sponging is done since sand grains are required to be exposed. It is
normally done on internal walls.
•For external walls, steel float is not used; instead wooden float is used as steel float
provides excessive smooth surface and hence the surface may crack due to
environmental conditions.

Smooth cast plaster or plain face plaster

Rough Cast Plaster or Spatter dash plaster:
•This plaster is a mixture of sand and gravel in specified proportion which is
dashed over a freshly plastered surface
.
•The plaster base consists of two coats, under layer 12 mm thick and top layer 10
mm thick having the cement mortar ratio 1:3. In the final coat of this plaster,
concrete is used in the ratio of cement : sand : coarse aggregate as 1:1.5:3 (M20).
The coarse aggregate is of the range 3mm to 12mm.
•The base is made more plastic, about 10% of hydrated lime by volume of
cement shall be added while preparation of mortar.
•This finish is water proof, durable and resistant to racking and crazing. Hence it
may be used for external renderings.

Rough Cast Plaster or Spatter dash plaster:

Pebbled dash plaster: It is
similar to rough cast finish
except clean pebble of size 10
mm to 20mm are dashed
against the surface so that
there are laid in position by
Scrapped Finish : It is a finish in
mortar applied already. The
which the final coat after being
mortar is in the proportion of
leveled and allowed to stiffen for a
1:3 as cement: sand.
few hours. The final coat is usually
6 to 12mm thickness. After some
time using steel blade or
plate scrap the plastered layer up
to 3mm depth. Scrapped finish is
less liable to cracks

Textured Finish
Textured Finish : In this finish, ornamental patterns or textured surfaces are

produced by working with various tools on the freshly applied final coat.

SPECIAL MATERIALS USED IN PLASTER
•Plaster of Paris (Gypsum Plastering):

Plaster of Paris is obtained from Gypsum powder on
heating it at 1600C to 1700C and is kept dry always as
it gets hardened when comes in contact with water
within 3 to 4 minutes. Its general use is with lime
combination though it may be combined with other
combinations also. They are used for ornamental
works, sound insulation, fire proofing, to reduce
shrinkage, finishing of wood or timber or metal
floorings etc due to adhesive property to them. A
major drawback of its use is the water solubility
tendency of gypsum which should be taken care of.

DEFECTS IN PLASTERING
Blistering of plastered surface: This is the formation of small patches of plaster which
swells out beyond the plastered surface, arising out of late slaking of lime particles in
the plaster. It may also arise due to presence of un slaked particles in slaked lime.
Cracking: It consists of formation of cracks and fissures on the plastering surface due
to following reasons like :
•Defective preparation of back ground
•Structural irregularities in buildings
•Discontinuity of plastered surface
•Movements in the back ground due to the thermal expansion or rapid drying or
shaking
•Movement in the plaster surface itself either due to expansion or shrinkage or due to
creep
•Excessive shrinkage caused by application of thick coat
•Faulty workmanship
Cracking of plastered surface
Blistering of plastered surface

DEFECTS IN PLASTERING
Pooping: It’s the formation of conical hole on the plastered surface due to the
presence of some expandable materials.
Rust stains: These are sometimes formed when plaster is applied on metal
laths due to rusting action.
Efflorescence: This is another defect by which the whitish crystalline material

which appears on the plastered surface due to presence of salts present in the
plastering material or building material. It gives the bad appearance and even
affects adhesion during painting. It can be removed to some extent by
washing the surface continuously and by dry brushing.
Uneven Surface: This is obtained purely due to poor workman ship.

Rust stains
Efflorescence
Uneven Surface Pooping

Falling out of plaster Falling out of plaster
a. The adhesion of the plaster to
the back ground may not be
perfect.
b. The suction of the backing
materials may not be uniform.
c. Excessive thermal changes in
plaster.

Pointing
What is pointing in Construction?
The term Pointing in construction is
applied to the finishing of mortar
joints in masonry (stone or brick).
In exposed masonry, joints are
considered to be the weakest and
most vulnerable spots from which rain
water or dampness can enter.
Pointing means implementing the
joints to a depth of 10 to 20mm and
filling it with better quality mortar in
desired shape.

MORTAR:
The pointing may be done by using different types of mortars:
The mortar for lime pointing may be done with lime mortar(1:2),
where 1 part lime & 2 part of sand or surkhi are mixed in a
grinding mill.
The mortar for cement pointing is made with CM by mixing 1 part

cement & 3 part of sand.

METHOD OF POINTING:
 The Mortar is pressed into the raked joints with a pointing trowel &
made flush, sunk or raised according to the type of pointing required.
The pointing lines should be regular, truly horizontal & vertical. In case of
random rubble masonry, where the joints are slanting, the lines should
meet at or near the junctions.
 The pointing should be kept wet for about a week.

Types of pointing
•Flush pointing
•Recessed pointing
•Beaded Pointing
•Struck Pointing
•Rubbed, keyed or grooved pointing
•Tuck Pointing
•V- pointing
•Weathered pointing

Flush pointing: In This type of pointing mortar is pressed hard in the raked joints
and by finishing off flush with the edge of masonry units. The edges are neatly
trimmed with trowel and straight edge. It does not give good appearance. But,
flush pointing is more durable because of resisting the provision of space for
dust, water etc., due to this reason, flush pointing is extensively used.
Recessed pointing
In case of recessed pointing mortar is pressing back by 5mm or more from the
edges. During placing of mortar the face of the pointing is kept vertical, by a
suitable tool. This type of pointing gives very good appearance.

Beaded pointing: It is a special type
of pointing which is formed by a
steel or ironed with a concave edge.
It gives good appearance, but it will
damage easily when compared to
other types.
Struck pointing: This is a

modification of flush pointing in
which the face the pointing is kept
inclined, with its upper edge pressed
inside the face by 10mm. struck
pointing drains water easily.

Tuck pointing: In case of tuck
pointing mortar is pressed in the
racked joint first and finishing flush
with the face. While the pressed
mortar is green, groove or narrow
channel is cut in the center of
groove which is having 5mm width
and 3mm depth. This groove is then
filled with white cement putty, kept
projecting beyond the face of the
joint by 3 mm. if projection is done
in mortar, it is called bastard
pointing or half tuck pointing.

V- Pointing: This pointing is
formed by forming V-groove in
the flush-finishing face.
Weathered pointing: This pointing
is made by making a projection in
the form of V-shape.
Rubbed, keyed or grooved

pointing:
This pointing is also a
modification of flush pointing in
which groove is formed at its mid
height, by a pointing tool. It gives
good appearance.

PAINTING: PAINT & PAINTING:
• The paints are the liquid composition of pigments & organic-binders, when applied
on timber, metal & plastered surfaces, on drying, forms a thin film to provide a
decorative finish & protection of the painted surface.
• Painting on masonry & concrete surfaces may resist checking & disintegration,
which increase the life of structure.
• Painting on metal surfaces at suitable intervals may prevent the metal surfaces from
corrosion.
CONSTITUENTS OF A PAINT:
The various constituents of a paint are as follow:
I. A base
II. A colouring pigment
III. A binder or a vehicle
IV. A solvent or thinner
V. A drier

1.Bases:
It is a principal constituent of paint. It also possesses the binding properties. It
forms an opaque coating. Commonly used bases for paints are white lead, red
lead, zinc oxide, iron oxide, titanium white, aluminium powder and lithopone.
A lead paint is suitable for painting iron and steel works, as it sticks to them
well. However it is affected by atmosphere action and hence should not be
used as final coat. While zinc forms good base but is costly.
2. Vehicles:
The vehicles are the liquid substances which hold the ingredients of a paint in
liquid suspension and allow them to be applied on the surface to be painted.
Linseed oil, Tung oil and Nut oil are used as vehicles in paints. Of the above
four oils, linseed oil is very commonly used vehicles. Boiling makes the oil
thicker and darker. Linseed oil reacts with oxygen and hardens by forming a
thin film.
3. Pigment:
Pigments give required colour for paints. They are fine particles and have a reinforcing
effect on thin film of the paint. The common pigments for different colours are:
Black—Lamp black, suit and charcoal black. Red—venedion red, red lead and Indian
red. Brown—burned timber, raw and burned sienna Green—chrome green, copper
sulphate. Blue—prussian blue and ultra marine Yellow—ochre and chrome yellow.
4. The Drier:
These are the compounds of metal like lead, manganese, cobalt. The function of a
drier is to absorb oxygen from the air and supply it to the vehicle for hardening. The
drier should not be added until the paint is about to be used.
5. The Thinner:
It is known as solvent also. It makes paint thinner and hence increases the coverage. It
helps in spreading paint uniformly over the surface Terpentine and neptha are commonly
used thinners. After paint applied, thinner evaporates and paint dries.
CHARACTERISTIC OF A GOOD OR IDEAL • TYPES OF PAINTS:
PAINT: I. Aluminium paint
The various characteristics of a good paint II. Anti corrosive paints
are as follows: III. Asbestos paints
I. It should stick properly to the surface IV. Bituminous paints
& seal the porous substrata. V. Bronze paints
II. It should provide adequate protection VI. Cellulose paints
& decoration to the surface. VII. Casein paints
III. It should be readily available & VIII. Cement based paints
economical to use. IX. Emulsion paints
IV. It should dry rapidly. X. Enamel paints
V. It should not possess cracks, flakes on XI. Oil paints
drying. XII. Plastic paints
XIII. Synthetic rubber paints
XIV. Silicates paints
Oil Paint: These paints are applied in three coats-primer, undercoat and finishing coat.
The presence of dampness while applying the primer adversely affect the life of oil
paint. This paint is cheap and easy to apply.
Enamel Paint: It contains white lead, oil, petroleum spirit and resinous material. The
surface provided by it resists acids, alkalis' and water very well. It is desirable to apply a
coat of titanium white before the coat of enamel is applied. It can be used both for
external and internal walls.
Emulsion Paint: It contains binding materials such as polyvinyl acetate, synthetic resins
etc. It dries in 1,5 to 2 hours and it is easy to apply. It is more durable and can be
cleaned with water. For plastered surfaces, first a coat of cement paint should be
applied and then the emulsion paint. Emulsion paint needs sound surfaces.

Cement Paint: It is available in powder form. It consists of white cement, pigment and
other additives. It is durable and exhibits excellent decorative appearance. It should
be applied on rough surfaces rather than on smooth surfaces. It is applied in two
coats. First coat is applied on wet surface but free from excess water and allowed to
dry for 24 hours. The second coat is then applied which gives good appearance.
Bituminous Paints: This type of paint is manufactured by dissolving asphalt or

vegetable bitumen in oil or petroleum. It is black in colour. It is used for painting iron
works under water.
Synthetic Rubber Paint: This paint is prepared from resins. It dries quickly and is little
affected by weather and sunlight. It resists chemical attack well. This paint may be
applied even on fresh concrete. Its cost is moderate and it can be applied easily.

Cellulose Paints: Natural cellulose is chemical treated and converted to nitrate or
acetate or to methyl of ethyl cellulose. The resultant derivative of cellulose is dissolved
in petroleum or in coal tar hydrocarbon. Plasticizer which is an organic compound of
low volatility is added to cellulose paints to improve adherence, toughness,
smoothness and elasticity of the paint film. Compared with ordinary oil paints, this
paint can be easily washed, cleaned as it has greater hardness, elasticity and
smoothness and withstand temperature changes and hot water better.
Aluminum Paint: It contains finely ground aluminum in spirit or oil varnish. It is visible
in darkness also. The surfaces of iron and steel are protected well with this paint. It is
widely used for painting gas tanks, water pipes and oil tanks.
Anti-corrosive Paint: It consists essentially of oil, a strong dier, lead or zinc chrome and
finely ground sand. It is cheap and resists corrosion well. It is black in colour.

Methods and Process of Painting on Different Surfaces:
•New wood work
•Repainting Old wood surface
•New iron and steel surfaces
•Repainting of old steel and iron surfaces
•Galvanized iron surface
•Metals
•Plastered surfaces
•Painting on New Wood Work

Following are the steps for painting new wooden surfaces:
 Surface
 preparation
 Knotting
Priming
 Stopping
Under coating
Finishing
1. Surface Preparation of Wooden Works: The surface should be well cleaned without any
dust, spots, greasy matter etc. The nails used in the wood work should be punched up to
3mm below the surface. The wood in wood work should be well seasoned and should not
contain more than 15% of moisture content. The surface should be dry.
2. Knotting : Knots present in the wood may eject resins from wood. So, knots are killed or
covered in this knotting process. Knotting can be done by two ways as follows: 1. In this
first method, two coats of solutions are applied on surface. First coat consists 15g of red
lead, 2 liters of water and 225 grams of glue. After adding these three, mixture is heated
and applied and left for 10 minutes. After that second coat is applied this consists red lead
ground in boiled linseed oil and thinned with turpentine oil.
Priming of New Wooden Surface
Priming is nothing but applying prime coat or first coat on surface. In this case, the surface is
smoothened with abrasive paper and then first coat of paint is applied to fill all the pores in the
surface. The ingredients used in this prime coat are same as subsequent coats but the quantity or
composition ratio may vary
Stopping :After filling all the pores of wooden surface in priming, it’s time to fill up nail holes, dents,
cracks, etc. Putty is used as the fill material. When putty is dried, then the whole surface is rubbed
with glass paper or pumice stone. This process of rubbing sown the wooden surface is called
stopping.
Under Coating of New Wooden Surface
In general, for good quality works, 4 coats of paints are applied (prime + under coatings + finishing).
For inferior quality works 2 to 3 coats can be used. So, under coatings are nothing but second and
third coats of good quality works which provides same look or shade as finishing coat. For better
results, enough time should be allowed for each coat.
Finishing of New Wooden Surface
Finishing is the last coat applied on surface which is generally applied on the under coatings. It
should be applied in smooth, uniform manner. It decides the whole final look of surface, so, skilled
workers are required for better results.
. AR. RAJ KUMAR SHARMA 66
Repainting of Old Wooden Surface
Old wood work can be repainted but the previous paint work should be removed. The
removal is more important which can be done by many ways as follows:
1. Prepare a solution of 1 kg caustic soda in 5 liters of water and apply on the old
painted surface. When this solution is applied on the surface, the old paint gets
dissolved and removed easily.
2. Another method is, prepare a hot solution consisting of soft soap, potash,
quicklime in the ratio 1:2:1. This solution is applied on old surface and washed with
hot water.1:1 mixture of washing soda and quick lime is prepared and applied on
old paint surface and then washed with water.
3. After applying any of the three methods described above, the surface is ready for
fresh painting. Before that the surface is rubbed with pumice stone or glass paper
and then 2 to 3 coats of paints are applied.

Painting of New Iron and Steel Surfaces
• Painting of iron and steel surfaces will resist the rust formation due to
weathering. Before painting the surface must be cleaned. If there is any rust or
scales, should be wiped off using steel brushes etc. stains on surface can be
washed with benzene or lime water.
• Before applying prime coat, the surface should be treated with phosphoric acid
to get better adhesive nature. Now prime coat is applied which consists 3kg of red
lead in 1 liter of boiled linseed oil. This should be applied using brush.
• After that, two or more under coats are applied which consist 3 kg of red lead in
5 liters of boiled linseed oil. After drying up, smooth finishing coat of desired paint
is applied.

Repainting of Old Steel and Iron Surfaces
Repainting of steel and iron surfaces is as same as new surfaces but cleaning of old
paint is most important. Oxy acetylene flame is used to burn off the paint surface and
then it is scrapped with brushes. Painting of Galvanized Iron Surface
• In general, Galvanized iron surface does not contain adhesive nature with paint. So,
it is difficult to apply paint on it without any special action. That special treatment
may be applying different solutions on surface.
• The solutions are 40 grams of copper acetate in one liter of water or 13 grams each
of copper chloride, copper nitrate, muriatic acid and ammonium chloride in 1 liter of
water. Any one of these two solutions are mixed in earthen vessel and applied on
surface. When the surface turns into black, then prime coat is applied after it dries,
finishing coat is applied.

Painting of Plastered Surfaces
• Painting of newly plastered surfaces is difficult because of moisture content
present in the plaster material. Heat of hydration of cement also causes severe
problems for paints especially oil based paints and distempers are liable to alkali
attack.
• To overcome this, alkali resistant primer is used in prime coat. The plastered
surface contains pores in it, and whenever the paint is applied, liquid from the paint
is absorbed by these pores which is called as suction. The suction of surface depends
upon type of paint, prime coat composition, etc. Suction should be uniform
throughout the surface.
• So, the preparation of surface depends upon the type of paint used on the surface.

DEFECTS IN PAINT WORK
The defects which are commonly found in paint work are as follow.
BLISTERING
Formation of bubbles like shapes on the painted surface is known as blistering. The
primary cause of this defect is water vapor. When water vapor trapped under the
paint layer, it creates bubbles under the film of paint. Blistering Defect of Paint

BLOOMING
Formation of dull patches on the
painted surface is known as
blooming. The primary cause of
this defect is poor quality of paint
and improper ventilation.
Blooming Defect of Paint

FADING
When there is a gradual loss
of colour from the pained
surface, it is known as
fading. The main cause of
this defect is the reaction of
sunlight on pigments of
paint. Fading Defect of Paint

FLAKING
In this type of defect, some
portion of the paint film is not
sticked properly with the surface;
resulting flaking off of the paint
layer. This is cause due to poor
adhesion between paint and the
surface to be painted. Flaking
Defect of Paint

FLASHING
Presence of glossy patches on the
painted surface is known as flashing.
The cause of this defect is mainly
due to poor workmanship, cheap
paint or weather actions. Flashing
Defect of Paint

GRINNING If the thickness of the final
coat of paint becomes very thin, the
background can be seen clearly. This is
known as grinning. Poor workmanship
is the main cause of this defect.
RUNNING This type of defect is seen

when the surface to be painted is very
smooth. In case of smooth surface the
paint runs back and leaves small areas
of surface uncovered. Running Defect
of Paint

SAPONIFICATION
Saponification Defect of Paint .
Formation of soap patches on the
painted surface is termed as
saponification. Chemical action of
alkalis is the cause of this defect.
WRINKLING
Wrinkling Defect of Paint
This type of defect is more
prominent when a thick layer of
paint is applied on a horizontal
surface. WRINKLING

Is code 7272
INTERNET , GYPROC
SITE PICS
OFFICE DRAWINGS
AR. RAJ KUMAR SHARMA


Plastering, Pointing Painting

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PLASTERING , POINTING , PAINTING

CONSTRUCTION (RAR 302)

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1. Three Coat Plaster:

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Smooth cast plaster or plain face plaster

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Textured Finish : In this finish, ornamental patterns or textured surfaces are

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•Plaster of Paris (Gypsum Plastering):

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Efflorescence: This is another defect by which the whitish crystalline material

Uneven Surface: This is obtained purely due to poor workman ship.

Uneven Surface Pooping

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The mortar for cement pointing is made with CM by mixing 1 part

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 The pointing should be kept wet for about a week.

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Struck pointing: This is a

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Rubbed, keyed or grooved

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Bituminous Paints: This type of paint is manufactured by dissolving asphalt or

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RUNNING This type of defect is seen

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