MODULE 4: Part 1

MUNICIPAL FISHING BOAT/BANCA

Background

The Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resource (BFAR) has for the past
years contented with multifarious problems besetting the small-scale fisherman,
with the end in view of improving their stead through extension of much needed
technology and research, training and other related support services.

Fishing boat mechanization in the field of municipal fisheries includes not

only technical advice in the design, construction, maintenance and repair on
suitable type of fishing gear to be used, it also contains considerable information
on the design, construction and installation of engine and its accessories.

General Information

A Municipal Fishing boat/banca is a reinforced dug-out not more than

three (3) gross tons usually made of marine plywood and relatively narrow with or
without outrigger and engine. It is a specialized craft which is intended to perform
certain well-defined tasks of catching fish or gathering aquatic resources. Its size,
lay-out, carrying capacity, maneuverability, accommodation, machinery and
equipment are all related to its functions in carrying out its planned operation.
In the boat design and construction, keep in mind that a boat should be
seaworthy, it must be able to withstand big waves and strong winds thus, and the
boat must be strongly built, Plan ahead to avoid errors in the purchase of
materials.

The following common errors should be avoided:

 Use of poor lumber
 Unfair curves
 Poor fits
 Rough edges
**It is always advisable to own the tools than borrowing them, keep them all in good
shape.

DESIGN/ STRUCTURAL PLAN

Design /structural plan of a municipal fishing boat/banca (40ft x 2.75ft. 3ft)

Construction of a municipal fishing boat/banca

Shaping-out the dug-out of a banca

 1. Cut the log measure 20 inches’ diameter x 36ft long for the banca to be
constructed.

2. Mark the deck line (Top portion) and bottom line of the dug-out using a batten.
Chop off the excess portion above the deck line and the position below the bottom
line using axe or two-man saw

3. Mark the breath line (port and starboard) and shape of the hollow canal of the
dug-out

4. Chop the outer portion of the breath line and dig the hollow canal by using axe
and “Pandaras” considering the sliding and bottom thickness of the dig-out.

5. Fairing the curvature of the line breath line

Divide the deck length of the boat into 4 equal parts and name them as stations
0,1,2,3 and 4

At station 2 which is at the midship is the desired breath of the boat

At station 1 and 3 the breath is equal to 80% of station 2
At station 0 and 4 the breath is equal to ½ the 1.2 thickness of the stem.
Use a long thin stick (batten) to pair the smooth curvature of the breath line

Joining the stem and the dug-out

Two (2) types of joining the stem and the dug-out are illustrated below

 Prepare one (1) piece of 4x6x10 guijo wood for the stem. Fore and aft.
 Draw the shape of the stem by using batten.
 Shape the lumber according to the desired shape of the stem.
 Fit the stem into the contact point of the dug-out by applying marine epoxy
or weld wood.
 Repeat procedures for the other stem

Fastening the frame or rib to the dug-out

 Prepare and cut 38 pieces 1.5x 3 x 24 guijo wood for the dug-out frame
provided with lap joint.
 Fit the frames to the topside of the dug-out and fasten with G.L carriage
bolts at 24inchs frame spacing
 Fastening the stringer to frames
 The stringer is extended horizon up to both ends of the boat (bow to
astern stem). The stringer is fastened half lap to every frame, reinforced
with a nail and gined at every intersection
 Prepare and cut four 9 (1) pieces 1 ½ x 2 x 22 tanguile wood for side
stringer with half lap joint cut at every intersection of the frame
  Fit the side stringer with half lap joint to the frame using nail or wood
screw and glue
 Repeat the same procedure for the other side frameFastening clamp and
rail to frames
 Install the clamp horizontally in line to top end of the frames and fastened
by nailing or bolting to every frame.
 Install the rail at the top of the clamp and frames using carriage bolt in
between the frames
Planking the banca

 Use ¼ inch thick marine plywood for planking.

 Attach planking using copper nail or wood screw to the dug-out frames,
stringer and stem at a distances form 3 to 4 inches apart.
 Coincide every planking joint to the frames, and glue the joining surface
with marine epoxy or weldwood to make it watertight to prevent leaking.

Installation of the engine and astern assembly

 Install the engine at about eight (8) feet away from the stern of the dug-out.
 Incline the shaft a little bit downward to the waterline to avail of the maximum push
of the propeller.

Bending of the outrigger beam(Batangan)

 Fix one end of the bamboo pole (Bayog type) to an improvised grip.
 Place a weight on the other end of the bamboo to induce bending
 Heat the portion of time bamboo to be bent to the desired curvature.

Painting

Paint with flat primer followed by at least two coating of gloss with a light touch of sand
paper in-between coatings. Below the waterline portion of the boat, apply three (3)
coating of anti-fouling paints.

Important point in painting:

 Avoid painting on rainy days
 Don’t paint wet timber, should only have at most 12% moisture content
 New wood structure should receive wood primer
 Scrape off thoroughly old paint before painting
 All fastening and holes should be properly sealed by a seaming compound

Care and maintenance

 It is of common knowledge that the lifespan boat/banca shall be longer if
there is proper care and maintenance.

The following tips should be observed:

 Keep the boat in heavy mooring. Every time the boat is left tie it up as though you
expect a bad weather.
 Scrap the bottom for barnacles twice a month and wash with fresh water and the
dry. Coat it with anti-fouling paint and timber protection and grease it.
 Keep it pumped out, washed clean, and all gears stored in their proper places
 When not in use, haul it out and store in a dry, well ventilated place.
 When the boat dries up and shows some openings causing leakage, get the boat
into the water as soon as possible soak into water for two (2) days before putting
strain on hull.

Appendix
A. Glossary of items
 Abaft – towards he stern of a boat
 Astern or stern – the rear portion of the boat
 Banca – a dug- out canoe with or without outrigger
 Batten – a long slender stick or splint used to draw curve lines
 Boom – a beam projecting from the mast used for up lifting load
 Breath – the extreme width of the boat
 Canoe - a small dag-out boat
 Fishing boat – those boat engaged in fishing
 Frame – structure giving transverse shape and rigidity to the boat
 Gross Tonnage – the total volume of space in 100 cubic feet
 Hull - the main body or frame of the boat
 Lap Joint – a joint made by lapping one piece or part over another and fastening
them together
 Length – the horizontal distance between both ends of the boat
 Keel – a longitudinal timber extending along the bottom; the backbone of the boat
 Mooring Line – a line for tying the boat to the wharf or buoy
 Planking - planks of wood covering the boat
 Port – the left side of the boat
 Rabbet Line – a groove or notch in a plank or timber to receive the edge of the
plank
 Rotting – the decomposition of wood caused by fungi usually at the edge of the
plank
 Rubber a device used for steering, to control the boat’s course
 Starboard – the right side of a boat
 Stringer – a strengthening timber running horizontally from fore to aft
 Tenon – a projecting part cut at the end of a piece of wood for insertion into a
corresponding hole (mortise) in another piece to make a joint
 Tiller – the handle by which the rubber is controlled
 Waterline – the level reached by the water surface of water on the side of the boat.
List of Hand Tools
 Adjustable level – a device used in leveling surface in a balance position
 Adjustable Wrench – a wrench having one fixed jaw and one adjustable jaw
 Batten – a thin strip of wood used in oaring a boat line in the mold loft
 Bit Brace - used for boring holes or cutting edges to insert saw tooth
 C-Clamp – a device used for holding or compressing things to be joined
 Chisel – a toll consisting of a short metal with a sharpened edge at the end used
for boring, chipping, curving, and cutting wood materials.
 Claw Hammer – used in extracting nails
 Crosscut Saw- used for cutting wood
 Hacksaw frames – for cutting metal or other hard materials
 Hand Drill – small portable drilling machine, designed to be held and operated by
hand
 Philip’s Screw Driver – a tool for turning screws so as to hold them into their place
 Planer – a medium-sized tool used purposely for planning and smoothing wood
surface
 Pliers – a pincher, for holding small objects or bending and cutting wire
 Plumb Bob – a metal bob used for leveling surfaces
 Spoke Shave – small transverse plane for planning concave surfaces
 Tape Measure - used for measuring