To call Peru from another country: To make a direct international call from Peru:

Dial the international access code:
US or Canada................... 011
UK or New Zealand........... 00
Australia........................ 0011
followed by the country code (51),
then the Peruvian area code and the local number.
For example, a call from the US to Lima would be
011+51+1+000+0000.
To make a call within Peru:
Within a city or town:
Dial the local number without the city
area code (e.g. 1 for Lima).
City-to-city:
Dial 0, then the city area code
and the local number.
Dial the international access code 00,
followed by the country code:
US or Canada.........1 Australia.............. 61
UK ....................... 44 New Zealand....... 64
Ireland............... 353 South Africa........ 27
then the area code and the local number.
To charge international calls through an operator:
AT&T............................ 0800/50-000
MCI.............................. 0800/50-010
Sprint........................... 0800/50-020
Directory assistance: International operator:
Dial 103. Dial 108.

To convert..................... multiply by
U.S. gallons to liters..................... 3.79
110˚F Liters to U.S. gallons.................... 0.26
40˚C U.S. gallons to imperial gallons...0.83
100˚F
Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons...1.20
90˚F Imperial gallons to liters.............. 4.55
30˚C Liters to imperial gallons............. 0.22
80˚F 1 liter = 0.26 U.S. gallon
1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters
70˚F 20˚C
60˚F
50˚F 10˚C
To convert..................... multiply by
40˚F inches to centimeters................... 2.54
32˚F 0˚C centimeters to inches................... 0.39
feet to meters................................0.30
meters to feet...............................3.28
20˚F
yards to meters.............................0.91
-10˚C meters to yards.............................1.09
10˚F
miles to kilometers.......................1.61
0˚F -18˚C kilometers to miles.......................0.62
1 ft = 0.30 m 1 mile = 1.6 km
-10˚F 1 m = 3.3 ft 1km = 0.62 mile
-20˚F -30˚C

To convert F to C: To convert..................... multiply by

subtract 32 and Ounces to grams........................ 28.35
multiply by 5/9 (0.555) Grams to ounces......................... 0.035
Pounds to kilograms......................0.45
To convert C to F: Kilograms to pounds................... 2.20
multiply by 1.8 1 ounce = 28 grams
and add 32 1 pound = 0.4555 kilogram
1 gram = 0.04 ounce
32˚F = 0˚C 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
 Peru
5th Edition

by Neil E. Schlecht
A B O U T T H E AU T H O R
Neil Edward Schlecht first trekked to Machu Picchu in 1983 during his junior year abroad
in Quito, Ecuador, and he has continued making pilgrimages to Peru ever since. He is the
author and co-author of a dozen travel guides (including Frommer’s Barcelona Day by Day,
Frommer’s New York State, and Spain For Dummies), and his articles on travel, art, wine, and
tennis have appeared in Galeria Antiqvaria, The Irish Times, CNN.com, and USOpen.com.
After long stints in Spain and Brazil, he currently resides in Litchfield County, Connecticut.
Published by:
W I L E Y P U B L I S H I N G, I N C.
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Copyright © 2010 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or
otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John
Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark
of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
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mentioned in this book.
ISBN 978-0-470-60223-2
Editor: Chris Summers, with Maureen Clarke
Production Editor: Jonathan Scott
Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero
Photo Editor: Richard H. Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Machu Picchu: detail of window with ruins and clouds beyond
Back cover photo: Ollantaytambo: woman seen from behind, walking down cobblestone
street
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5 4 3 2 1
 CONTENTS
LIST OF MAPS
1 THE BEST OF PERU
1 The Most Unforgettable
Travel Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
2 The Best Ruins & Historical
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
3 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
4 The Best of Natural Peru. . . . . . . . . . . .7
5 The Best Small Towns & Villages . . . .9
6 The Best Outdoor Experiences . . . .10
7 The Best Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
8 The Best Festivals &
Celebrations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
2 PERU IN DEPTH
1 Peru Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
2 Looking Back At Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
3 Peru’s Arts & Culture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO PERU
1 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Peru Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . .45
2 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
3 Getting There & Getting
Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Combi or Carro? Getting Around
in and out of Town. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
4 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
vii
1
9 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
10 The Best Small Hotels, Inns
& Lodges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
11 The Best Local Dining
Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
12 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
13 The Best Markets & Shopping . . . . .22
14 The Best Reasons for
Bragging Rights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
15 The Best of Peru Online . . . . . . . . . . .25
26
4 The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
5 Peru in Popular Culture. . . . . . . . . . . .37
6 Eating & Drinking in Peru. . . . . . . . . .41
44
What Things Cost in Peru. . . . . . . . . . .55
5 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
6 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .60
8 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
General Resources for
Green Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
iv 9 Special- and General-Interest
Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
10 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
4 SUGGESTED PERU ITINERARIES
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
2 The Best of Peru in 1 Week . . . . . . . .78
5 THE ACTIVE VACATION PLANNER
1 Organized Adventure Trips . . . . . . . .86
2 Activities A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90
Which Jungle? Comparing
Piranhas and Monkeys . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
3 Peru’s National Parks &
PERU
Nature Reserves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
6 LIMA
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
CO N T E N T S
The Neighborhoods in Brief. . . . . . . 109
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Fast Facts: Lima. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
3 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Cevicherías . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
5 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
10 Side Trips from Lima . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
7 THE CENTRAL COAST & HIGHLANDS
1 Pisco & the Reserva Nacional de
Paracas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Paracas Culture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
Earthquake Aftershocks . . . . . . . . . . 158
2 Ica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
8 CUSCO
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
11 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .71
Shopping in Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
75
3 The Best of Peru in 2 Weeks. . . . . . .80
4 10 Days with the Kids in Peru . . . . .83
85
4 Safety & Etiquette in
Wild Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
5 What to Bring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
6 Volunteer & Study Programs . . . . 102
105
All That Glitters Isn’t
Necessarily Gold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Archaeological Sites in Lima . . . . . 139
6 Organized Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
7 Outdoor Activities & Spectator
Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
9 Lima After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
149
3 Nasca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
4 A Gem in the Central Highlands:
Ayacucho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Ayacucho’s Renowned Retablos. . . 178
184
Fast Facts: Cusco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
3 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
 Family-Friendly Hotels. . . . . . . . . . . . 197
More Hotels & Hostales in Cusco . . . 202
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
Cusco’s Quintas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
5 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
Cusco’s Boleto Turístico . . . . . . . . . . . 216
The Cusco School of Art . . . . . . . . . . 218
The Magic of Inca Stones:
A Walking Tour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220
9 MACHU PICCHU & THE SACRED VALLEY
OF THE INCAS
Getting Around the
Sacred Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
1 Pisac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
Extreme Sacred Valley: Outdoor
Adventure Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
2 Urubamba & Environs . . . . . . . . . . . 246
3 Ollantaytambo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Hiking Trails in the Sacred
Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
4 Machu Picchu &
the Inca Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
Endangered Machu Picchu . . . . . . . 264
10 SOUTHERN PERU
1 Puno & Lake Titicaca . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Puno & Lake Titicaca Festivals. . . . . 295
Celebration and Quiet on
Taquile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
Additional Hostales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Traveling to Bolivia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
2 Arequipa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
The Discovery of Juanita,
the Ampato Maiden . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
Cusco’s Spectacular v
Celebrations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
6 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
8 Cusco After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Cafe Society . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
9 Side Trips from Cusco . . . . . . . . . . . 234
And Then There Were 12:
The Inca Emperors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
238
We Call It Choclo: Foods
of the Incas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
PERU
Bingham, the “Discoverer” of
Machu Picchu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
On the Trail of “New” Inca Cities:
The Discovery Continues . . . . . . . . . 276
Inca Trail Regulations . . . . . . . . . . . . 279
CO N T E N T S
The Road Less (or More Comfortably)
Traveled: Alternatives to the
Inca Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280
More Places to Crash in Aguas
Calientes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
290
House Tour: Arequipa’s Colonial
Mansions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .317
3 Colca Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
A Typical Guided Tour of
Colca Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
On Those Camelids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
vi
11 AMAZONIA 341

1 The Southern Amazon Jungle. . . 342 The Amazon in Danger . . . . . . . . . . 358

Bird-Watching and Macaw Into the Wild: Farther Afield
Clay Licks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356 from Iquitos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
2 Iquitos & the Northern
Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356

12 NORTHERN PERU 378

1 Trujillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 4 Máncora & Peru’s Northern

Moche Culture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
2 Chiclayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395
The Sicán Civilization . . . . . . . . . . . . 401
The Ruins of Kuélap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402
PERU
Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418
5 Huaraz & the Cordillera
Blanca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
Festival Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428
More Budget Accommodations. . . 431

3 Cajamarca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405
Cordillera Huayhuash:
Caxamarca: A Brief History . . . . . . . 406 The New “It” Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
Cajamarca’s Colonial
Mansions & Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
CO N T E N T S

13 FAST FACTS 444

1 Fast Facts: Peru. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444 2 Airline, Hotel & Car-Rental

Websites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449

14 USEFUL TERMS & PHRASES 451

1 Basic Spanish Vocabulary. . . . . . . . 451 3 Quechua & Quechua-Derived

2 Spanish Menu Glossary . . . . . . . . . 454 Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
4 Etiquette & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . 457

INDEX 459
 LIST OF MAPS
The Best of Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
The Best of Peru in 1 Week . . . . . . . . 79
The Best of Peru in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . 81
10 Days with the Kids in Peru . . . . . 84
Lima at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Where to Stay & Dine in
Lima Centro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Where to Stay & Dine
in Miraflores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Where to Stay & Dine
in San Isidro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
What to See & Do
in Lima Centro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
The Central Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Pisco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Paracas National Preserve . . . . . . . 155
Ica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Nasca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
The Nasca Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Ayacucho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Where to Stay in Central Cusco . . . 195
Where to Stay & Dine
in San Blas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
Where to Dine in Central
Cusco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
What to See & Do in Cusco . . . . . . . 215
Inca Ruins near Cusco . . . . . . . . . . . 222
The Sacred Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239
Ollantaytambo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
Machu Picchu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
The Inca Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu
Pueblo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285
Southern Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
Puno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
Lake Titicaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
What to See & Do in Arequipa. . . . 313
Where to Stay & Dine
in Arequipa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
Colca Valley & Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . 331
Amazonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
The Southern Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . 345
Puerto Maldonado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
The Northern Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . 361
Iquitos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
Northern Peru. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379
Trujillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381
Chiclayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397
Cajamarca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407
The Cordillera Blanca . . . . . . . . . . . . 423
Huaraz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
H OW TO CO N TAC T U S
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops,
and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the informa-
tion with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recom-
mendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Peru, 5th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

A N A D D I T I O N A L N OT E
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is espe-
cially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when
making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for
the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we
encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
F R O M M E R ’S S TA R R AT I N G S, I CO N S & A B B R E V I AT I O N S
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,
service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and
regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and
budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recom-
mended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are
rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recom-
mended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use six feature icons that point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Facts Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S AT F R O M M E R S.CO M
Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, Frommers.com, has
travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you
access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-
rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members
through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors
and fellow travelers, and much more.
 1
The Best of Peru
Peru is legendary among world travelers looking for exciting new
experiences. Stunningly endowed in both natural and man-made attractions, the country
offers much more than most trips can even hope to take in: charming Andean highland
towns with colonial architecture, remote jungle lodges in the Amazon basin, soaring
snowcapped mountains and volcanoes, a 3,220km (2,000-mile) Pacific coastline, and, of
course, Machu Picchu and the stunning legacies of the Incas and other sophisticated
pre-Columbian civilizations. Peru is a place of brilliant hand-woven textiles and exuber-
ant celebrations, exotic animals, and fascinating peoples. It is a country bursting with
opportunities for memorable travel experiences and outdoor adventure. The following
lists describe some of my favorite places and activities, from hotels and restaurants to
outdoor experiences and festivals. But the fun of traveling to a fascinatingly diverse
country such as Peru is compiling your own unforgettable list.

1 T H E M O S T U N F O R G E T TA B L E
T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S
• Soaring over the Nasca Lines: One of
South America’s great enigmas, these
ancient, baffling lines are etched into
the desert sands along Peru’s southern
coast. There are giant trapezoids and
triangles, the identifiable shapes of ani-
mal and plant figures, and more than
10,000 lines that can only really be seen
from the air. Variously thought to be
signs from the gods, agricultural and
astronomical calendars, or even extra-
terrestrial airports, the Nasca Lines were
constructed between 300 b.c. and a.d.
700. Small-craft overflights dip and
glide, and passengers strain their necks
against the window to see mysterious
figures such as “the Astronaut.” See
“Nasca,” in chapter 7.
• Gazing at Machu Picchu: However
you get to it—whether you hike the
fabled Inca Trail or hop aboard one of
the prettiest train rides in South Amer-
ica—Machu Picchu more than lives up
to its reputation as one of the most
spectacular sites on earth. The ruins of
the legendary “lost city of the Incas” sit
majestically among the massive Andes,
swathed in clouds. The ceremonial and
agricultural center, never discovered or
looted by the Spaniards, dates to the
mid-1400s but seems even more
ancient. Despite its enormous popular-
ity, exploring the site remains a thrilling
experience, especially at sunrise, when
dramatic rays of light creep over the
mountaintops. For the classic, pan-
oramic postcard views, see the ruins
from the Sun Gate or the top of Huayna
Picchu. See “Machu Picchu & the Inca
Trail,” in chapter 9.
• Hiking the Inca Trail: The legendary
trail to Machu Picchu, the Camino del
Inca, is one of the world’s most reward-
ing ecoadventures. The arduous 4-day
trek leads across astonishing Andean
mountain passes and through some of
the greatest attractions in Peru, includ-
ing dozens of Inca ruins, dense cloud
 2

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T H E M O S T U N F O R G E T TA B L E T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S THE BEST OF PERU
1
3
4 forest, and breathtaking mountain
scenery. The trek has a superlative pay-
off: a sunset arrival at the glorious ruins
of Machu Picchu, shrouded in mist at
your feet. The Inca Trail has become
extraordinarily popular and heavily
regulated, however; for those looking
for more off-the-beaten-track and per-
haps more “authentic” ruins treks, Cho-
quequirao, Salcantay, and other
alternatives to the Inca Trail await, as do
new luxury versions of the trail (that
still wind up at Machu Picchu). See
THE BEST OF PERU
“Machu Picchu & the Inca Trail” in
chapter 9.
• Floating on Lake Titicaca: Lake Titi-
caca, the world’s highest navigable body
of water, straddles the border between
Peru and Bolivia. To locals, it is a mys-
terious and sacred place. An hour’s boat
ride from Puno takes you to the Uros
1 floating islands, where communities
dwell upon soft patches of reeds. Visi-
T H E B E S T R U I N S & H I S TO R I C A L S I G H T S
tors have a rare opportunity to experi-
ence the ancient cultures of two
inhabited natural islands, Amantaní
and Taquile, by staying with a local
family. The views of the oceanlike lake,
at more than 3,600m (12,000 ft.) above
sea level, and the star-littered night sky
are worth the trip. Even better for those
with an adventuresome spirit and extra
time are kayaking on Titicaca and
spending the night on private Suasi
2 T H E B E S T R U I N S & H I S TO R I C A L S I G H T S
• Cantalloc Aqueduct & Chauchilla
Cemetery: An incredible necropolis
dating to around a.d. 1000 and a
sophisticated irrigation system in the
area around Nasca are two of the south’s
most interesting archaeological sites. Of
the thousands of graves at Chauchilla,
12 underground tombs have been
exposed. What they hold is fascinating:
the bleached bones of children and
Island. See “Puno & Lake Titicaca” in
chapter 10.
• Marveling as Condors Soar over
Colca Canyon: The world’s second-
deepest canyon (twice as deep as the
Grand Canyon), Colca is the best place
in South America to see giant Andean
condors, majestic birds with wingspans
of up to 3.5m (11 ft.). From a stunning
lookout point nearly 1,200m (4,000
ft.) above the canyon river, you can
watch as the condors appear, slowly
circle, and gradually gain altitude with
each pass until they soar silently above
your head and journey down the river.
A truly spine-tingling spectacle, the
flight of the big birds might make you
feel quite small and insignificant—and
certainly less graceful. See “Colca Val-
ley” in chapter 10.
• Plunging Deep into the Jungle: How-
ever you do it, and in whichever part of
the Amazon-basin rainforest you do it,
Peru’s massive tracts of jungle are not to
be missed. The northern jungle is most
accessible from Iquitos, and the south-
ern Amazon, which features two phe-
nomenal national reserves, Manu and
Tambopata, is approachable from
Cusco and Puerto Maldonado. You can
take a river cruise, stay at a rustic jungle
lodge, or lose yourself with a private
guide, making camp and catching din-
ner along the way. See chapter 11.
adults with dreadlocks, and some of the
garments and goodies they were buried
with. Close to town, nearly three dozen
aqueducts represent a spectacular engi-
neering feat of the Incas and their pre-
decessors. The canals have air vents
forming spirals descending to the water
current and are still in use today by
local farmers. See “Nasca” in chapter 7.
• Colonial and Inca Cusco: Vibrant
Cusco, the ancient Inca capital, is a liv-
ing museum of Peruvian history, with
Spanish colonial churches and man-
sions sitting atop perfectly constructed
Inca walls of exquisitely carved granite
blocks that fit together without mortar.
Streets still have evocative Quechua-
language names that date back to Inca
times, such as Saqracalle (“Where the
demons dwell”) and Pumaphaqcha
(“Puma’s tail”). See “What to See &
Do” in chapter 8.
• Qoricancha–Templo del Sol: The Inca
Temple of the Sun is an exceptional
example of the Incas’ masterful
masonry. Dedicated to sun worship, the
greatest temple in the Inca Empire was
a gleaming palace of gold before the
Spaniards raided it. During the summer
solstice, the sun still magically illumi-
nates a niche where the Inca chieftain
held court. See p. 218.
• Sacsayhuamán: On a hill overlooking
Cusco, the monumental stonework at
Sacsayhuamán forms massive zigzagged
defensive walls of three tiers. Built by the
Inca emperor Pachacútec in the mid-
15th century, some blocks weigh as
much as 300 tons, and they fit together
seamlessly without mortar. The main
pageant of the splendid Inti Raymi festi-
val, one of the greatest expressions of
Inca and Quechua culture, is celebrated
every June 24 at Sacsayhuamán. See
“What to See & Do” in chapter 8.
• Pisac Ruins: At the beginning of the
Sacred Valley, just 45 minutes from
Cusco, are some of the most spectacular
Inca ruins in Peru. Equal parts city,
religious temple, and military com-
plex—and perhaps a royal estate of the
Inca emperor—the ruins enjoy stun-
ning views of the valley. A hike up the
steep hillside to the ruins, beginning at
Pisac’s main square, is one of the most
rewarding climbs you’re likely to take.
See “Pisac” in chapter 9.
• Ollantaytambo’s Fortress Ruins: Even 5
though the Incas never finished this
temple for worship and astronomical
observation, it is still extraordinary, one
of the greatest examples of their unpar-
alleled engineering and craftsmanship.
On a rocky outcrop perched above the
valley, dozens of rows of incredibly
steep stone terraces are carved into the
hillside; high above are elegant exam-
ples of classic Inca masonry in pink
granite. If that weren’t enough, the
charming little town of “Ollanta” is a
THE BEST OF PERU
perfect grid of Inca-laid streets with
rushing canals. See “Ollantaytambo” in
chapter 9.
• New “Lost” Inca Cities: Archaeolo-
gists keep unearthing fantastic Inca
ruins in and around Machu Picchu
(which obviously qualifies as the most
fascinating ruins of all). Most are still
being excavated and documented, but
1
Choquequirao, to which hard-core
T H E B E S T R U I N S & H I S TO R I C A L S I G H T S
trekkers put off by the crowds and regu-
lations of the Inca Trail are now hiking,
and the recent discoveries of Qori-
huayrachina, Cota Coca, and Llac-
tapata are all envisioned as new Machu
Picchus. See “On the Trail of ‘New’
Inca Cities: The Discovery Continues”
on p. 276.
• Huacas de Moche: On the outskirts of
Trujillo, this complex of mysterious
Moche adobe pyramids, the Temple of
the Sun and Temple of the Moon, dates
to a.d. 500. The Temple of the Sun
(Huaca del Sol), today sadly eroded, is
still mammoth—it was once probably
the largest man-made structure in the
Americas. The smaller Temple of the
Moon (Huaca de la Luna) has been
excavated; revealed inside are cool poly-
chromatic friezes of a scary figure, the
decapitator god. See “Trujillo” in chap-
ter 12.
• Chan Chan: A sprawling city of adobe
in the Moche Valley, just beyond Tru-
jillo, Chan Chan was the capital of the
6 formidable Chimú Empire. Begun
around a.d. 1300, it is the largest adobe
complex of pre-Columbian America.
Among the nine royal palaces, the par-
tially restored Tschudi Palace has
unusual friezes and is evocative enough
to spur thoughts of the unequaled size
and sophistication of this compound of
the Chimú kingdom, which reached its
apogee in the 15th century before suc-
cumbing to the Incas. Chan Chan
includes three other sites, all quite
spread out, including a modern
THE BEST OF PERU
museum. See “Trujillo” in chapter 12.
• The Ruins of Kuélap & Choque-
quirao: The remote site of Kuélap,
hidden by thick cloud forest and more
than 800 years old, is one of the man-
made wonders of Peru waiting to be
discovered by visitors. The ruins are still
tough and time-consuming to get to,
1 but the fortress complex of 400 round
buildings, surrounded by a massive
THE BEST MUSEUMS
defensive wall, rewards the efforts of
adventurous amateur archaeologists.
3 THE BEST MUSEUMS
• Museo Arqueológico Rafael Larco
Herrera, Lima: The world’s largest pri-
vate collection of pre-Columbian art
focuses on the Moche dynasty (a.d.
200–700) and its extraordinary ceram-
ics. Packed shelves in this 18th-century
colonial building hold an incredible
45,000 pieces. And it wouldn’t be a
proper presentation of the Moche cul-
ture without a Sala Erótica, dedicated
to the culture’s shockingly explicit
ceramic sexual depictions. See p. 136.
• Museo de la Nación, Lima: The
National Museum traces the art and
history of the earliest inhabitants to the
Inca Empire. It’s sprawling but very
well designed, with scale models of
major archaeological sites and great
carved totems and textiles. See p. 136.
The same can be said about Choque-
quirao, an extraordinary and massive
Inca construction that is only 30%
uncovered; it takes 4 or 5 difficult days
on foot to get there and back, but it’s a
superb alternative to overcrowded
Machu Picchu. See “The Road Less (or
More Comfortably) Traveled” in chap-
ter 9 and “The Ruins of Kuélap” on
p. 402.
• Chavín de Huántar: About 110km (68
miles) from Huaraz and the Cordillera
Blanca are the 3,000-year-old ruins of
Chavín de Huántar, a fortress-temple
with excellent stonework, constructed
by the Chavín culture from about 1200
to 300 b.c. These are the best-preserved
ruins of one of Peru’s most sophisticated
and influential ancient civilizations. In
a subterranean tunnel is the Lanzón, a
huge and handsome stone carving and
cult object shaped like a dagger. See
“Huaraz & the Cordillera Blanca” in
chapter 12.
• Convento y Museo de San Francisco,
Lima: The capital’s best colonial-era
church, the Convent of St. Francis is a
striking 17th-century baroque complex
with gorgeous glazed ceramic tiles and
carved ceilings. The museum holds
excellent examples of religious art and a
splendid library, but deep beneath the
church are some creepy catacombs, dug
in the 16th century to house the
remains of tens of thousands of priests
and parishioners. See p. 132.
• Museo Antonini, Nasca: A private
archaeology museum with a mission,
this Italian initiative presents artifacts
from the sophisticated Nasca culture
and details the process of the excava-
tions. In the museum’s backyard is the
Bisambra aqueduct, an ancient Nasca
 stone irrigation canal. The museum is
in possession of the world’s greatest col-
lection of painted textiles, from the
huge adobe city of Cahuachi nearby,
but as of yet has no place to display
them. See p. 172.
• Convento y Museo de Santa Catalina,
Cusco: This handsome, early-17th-cen-
tury convent was constructed on top of
the Acllawasi, where the Inca emperor
sequestered his chosen Virgins of the
Sun. The museum’s collection of colo-
nial and religious art is terrific. It’s the
best place in Peru to study the painters
of the famed Escuela Cusqueña, which
forged a unique style of Amerindian art
by combining indigenous and Spanish
styles. See p. 213.
• Museo de Arte Precolombino, Cusco:
This handsomely designed museum of
pre-Columbian art possesses some pris-
tine pieces representing the whole of
Peru’s history, all taken from Lima’s
overwhelming Larco Herrera museum.
Housed in a colonial mansion on one of
Cusco’s prettiest squares, the museum is
small enough to be engaging rather
than exhausting. See p. 217.
• Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Areq-
uipa: The Convent of Santa Catalina,
founded in 1579, is hands-down the
greatest religious monument in Peru.
More than a convent, it’s an extraordi-
nary architectural complex, with Span-
ish-style cobblestone streets, passageways,
plazas, and cloisters, where more than
200 sequestered nuns once lived (only a
handful remain). Spending a sunny
afternoon here is like being transported
4 T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L P E R U
• Islas Ballestas: The Ballestas Islands,
considered the “Peruvian Galápagos,” are
home to an amazing roster of protected
species, including huge colonies of sea
lions, endangered turtles, Humboldt
to another world: a small village in 7
Andalucía, Spain. See p. 312.
• Museo Santuarios Andinos, Arequipa:
The Museum of Andean Sanctuaries
focuses on a singular exhibit, one of the
most important recent archaeological
finds in Peru: Juanita, the Ice Maiden of
Ampato. A 13- or 14-year-old girl sacri-
ficed in the 1500s by Inca priests on a
volcano at more than 6,000m (20,000
ft.), “Juanita” was discovered in almost
perfect condition in 1995. Her frozen
remains, kept inside a high-tech cham-
THE BEST OF PERU
ber, have been studied by scientific
teams from the U.S. and Peru to elicit
clues from her DNA. See p. 316.
• Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán, Lam-
bayeque: Peru’s newest major museum
is stunningly modern on the outside,
echoing the north’s ancient Moche pyr-
amids, and it holds the spectacular
tomb of the Lord of Sipán within. One
1
of Peru’s most important archaeological
T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L P E R U
discoveries, El Señor de Sipán is a
Moche royal figure, buried 1,700 years
ago with a wealth of ceremonial orna-
ments and treasures. This museum is
perhaps the best expression of Peru’s
ancient grandeur. See p. 398.
• Conjunto Monumental de Belén,
Cajamarca: A historic architectural
complex of carved volcanic stone, Belén
comprises an extraordinary colonial
church and two former hospitals hous-
ing medical and archaeological exhibits,
including textiles and ceramics dating
back to 1500 b.c. and interesting eth-
nographic displays. See p. 409.
penguins, red boobies, pelicans, turkey
vultures, and red-footed cormorants.
The islands are so covered with migra-
tory and resident seabirds that they are
known for their production of guano, or
8 bird droppings. The Ballestas are part of
the Paracas National Reserve, two-thirds
of which is ocean. Sadly, the Reserve was
affected by the 2007 earthquake, losing
one of its iconic stone formations,
known as the “Cathedral.” See “Pisco &
the Reserva Nacional de Paracas” in
chapter 7.
• Colca Valley: The Colca Canyon is an
awe-inspiring site and the best place in
South America to witness giant con-
dors, but the entire area, which Mario
Vargas Llosa called the “Valley of Won-
THE BEST OF PERU
ders,” is extraordinarily scenic. From
snowcapped volcanoes to patchwork
valleys of green, narrow gorges, and
beautiful desert landscapes, Colca has it
all. On the way to Colca Canyon, you
pass the Salinas and Aguada Blanca
Nature Reserve, where you can glimpse
vicuñas, llamas, and alpacas from the
1 road. See “Colca Valley,” in chapter 10.
• Tambopata National Reserve: A huge
T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L P E R U
reserve of rainforest in the departamento
(province) of Madre de Dios, Tambopata
has outstanding biodiversity: more spe-
cies of birds (nearly 600) and butterflies
(1,200) than any place of similar size on
earth, as well as a dozen different types of
forest and gorgeous oxbow lakes, and at
least 13 endangered animal species. The
famous Tambopata macaw clay lick,
where thousands of brilliantly colored
macaws and parrots gather daily for feed-
ings, ranks as one of the wildlife high-
lights of Peru. See “The Southern
Amazon Jungle” in chapter 11.
• Manu Biosphere Reserve: Remote
Manu—about as close as you’re likely to
come to virgin rainforest anywhere—is
the second-largest protected area in
Peru. Its incredibly varied habitats
include Andes highlands, cloud forests,
and lowland tropical rainforests. One
hectare (21⁄2 acres) of forest in Manu
could have 10 times the number of spe-
cies of trees found in a hectare of tem-
perate forest in Europe or North
America, and Manu has the highest
bird, mammal, and plant diversity of
any park on the planet. The reserve is
one of the world’s finest for birding
(greater even than all of Costa Rica);
other wildlife includes giant river otters,
cocks-of-the-rock, and perhaps 15,000
animal species, as well as native Amer-
indian tribes that remain untouched by
the modern world. See “The Southern
Amazon Jungle” in chapter 11.
• Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve:
This reserve, nearly 322km (200 miles)
south of Iquitos, is the largest protected
area in Peru and one of the best con-
served in the world. Its dense, pristine
rainforest and wetlands comprise 1.5%
of Peru’s total surface area and contain
some of the Amazon’s greatest wildlife,
including pink dolphins, macaws, black
caimans, spider monkeys, and giant
river turtles. Found in the reserve (at
last count) are 539 species of birds, 101
species of mammals, 256 kinds of fish,
and 22 species of orchids. See “Into the
Wild: Farther Afield from Iquitos” on
p. 100.
• Huascarán National Park: For trekkers
and climbers, the soaring peaks of the
longest tropical mountain range in the
world are a South American mecca. It’s
a visual feast, with 200 alpine lakes, 600
glaciers, and incomparable mountain
vistas. The park, a UNESCO Biosphere
Reserve and World Heritage Trust site,
contains nearly the whole of the 161km
(100-mile) Cordillera Blanca. See
“Huaraz & the Cordillera Blanca,” in
chapter 12.
• Lagunas de Llanganuco & Puya Rai-
mondi: Near Huaraz, the snowcapped
peaks of the Cordillera Blanca are the
biggest natural draw for trekkers, but
the area is replete with all kinds of natu-
ral wonders. The two Llanganuco lakes
are turquoise, glacier-fed alpine lakes
that reflect the snowy summits of sev-
eral 6,000m (20,000-ft.) mountains. In