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To cite this article: K. Kajiwara , R. Nori & M. Okamoto (2000) New Fibers from Japan, The
Journal of The Textile Institute, 91:3, 32-78, DOI: 10.1080/00405000008659541
Download by: [Visvesvaraya Technological University - VTu] Date: 22 April 2016, At: 02:43
New Fibers from Japan
K. Kajiwara*, R. Nori*, and M. Okamotot
* Faculty of Engineering and Design, Kyoto Institute of Technology. Kyoto,
Sakyo-ku. Matsugasaki 606-8585, Japan
^Faculty of Textile Science and Technology, Shinshu University, Ueda,
Tokita, Nagano, Japan
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New fibers are categorized as: (1) high-performance fiber, (2) high-function fiber, and (3) high-
touch fiber. Products appearing in the Japanese market are introduced with the technical
background. High-performance fiber denotes fiber that possesses higher mechanical strength,
hetter heat resistance, better acid/alkali resistance, and hetter weather resistance than
conventional fibers. High-function fiher provides a «ipeeihe function required in a specific
environment or occasion, and high-touch fiber is represented hy shingosen.
1. I N T R O D U C T I O N
Since the commercialization of three major synthetic fibers; nylon in 1938, followed by
polyester and polyacrylonitrile in the 1950s, synthetic fibers developed consistently and
overtook the share of natural fibers even in the field of apparels and home furnishings in the
Japanese market in 1995. As summarized in Table I, many new polymers have been
synthesized for new fibers, but over 7 6 % of man-made fiber production is still maintained
by the three major synthetic fibers mentioned above (in Japan in 1997). The share of other
synthetic fibers is about 10%, and the rest (14%) is filled with cellulosic fibers. Synthetic
fibers were consumed mainly for apparels and home furnishings in the 1980s, but
applications have been extended to industrial use (Table II). Fiber consumption has been
almost equally divided between apparels/home furnishings and industrial use since 1995.
Fiber itself has a long tradition as the material for textile/clothing, and now fiber is
indispensable for advanced composite materials (ACMs) as the twenty-first century will be
the composite age. Fibrous materials have found many applications in the field of
aeronautical/astronautical engineering, transportation engineering, marine engineering,
civil engineering, and sports as termed generally tech-textile. Fig. I illustrates the wide
scope of advanced fiber application, and Table II indicates the present status o f t h e fibers
for industrial use with their problems that need to be solved in order to expand their
market.
In these 30 years, high-performance fibers, advanced composite materials, optical fiber,
and shingosen have been developed as high-tech fibers. High-tech fiber is defined as that
produced by high technology, and is conventionally classified into three categories of high-
performance fiber (super fiber), high-function fiber and high-touch fiber as shown sche-
matically in Fig. 2. High-performance fiber denotes fiber that possesses higher mechanical
strength, better heat resistance, better acid/alkali resistance, and better weather resistance
than conventional fibers. Especially high-performance fiber possessing the tenacity a n d
modulus higher than 20 g/denier (2.2 GPa) a n d 500 g/denier (55 GPa), respectively, is
referred to as super fiber. Commercially available super fibers in the Japanese market are
listed in Table III.
High-function fiber provides a specific function required in a specific environment or
occasion. Fiber .should possess a high tenacity a n d flexibility by having a length at least
Table 1
Molecular structure of polymers for fibrous materials
Polymer Molecular structure
IPolyolefin/vinyl polymers] -4— CH2 -CH2-)—
Polyethylene (PE) ^ 'n
Polyacrylonitrile (PAN)
CN
CH3 CH3
[Nylon/aliphatic polyamide]
Nylon 6
Nylon 66 NH - -NH-C-(CH2)4-C-
II II
o o
Nylon 46
[Aramid/aromatic polyamide]
Poly-ni-phenylene-Mo-phthalamide
(PMIA)
W ^ ^^ i! '«
Poly-p-phenylene lerephthalamide
(Kevlar; PPTA) NH
o o
Aramid copolymer (Technora)
PPTA
^^ o o
tPoIyester]
Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) - O - (CH.), - O - C - ^ ^ > - C 4—
II ^ - ^ II ' n
o o
o
Polyethylene naphthalate (PEN)
P f^^V^C-O-(CH2):-o4-
-c-i^Jk-^ '"
Poly-e-caprolactonc 0-(CHi),-c4—
II ' n
O
Table I (continued)
Econol
o o
Poly-/j-phenylene beiiz-W.s-oxazole
(PBO)
Poly-/>-phenylene benz-ftw-thiazole
(PBZT)
CH,
Polysulfone (PSF)
CH3
CH?
[Polyimide]
Polyimide (P84; PI)
Poly(pyromellitic imide)
(Capton; PPI)
[Cellulose] H OH CHiOH
Cellulose!
YO V-/H 'n
CHiOH H OH
Table I (continued)
[Amorphous polymer]
Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA)
Polycarbonate (PC)
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100 times its diameter as its basic function. Other functions are afforded by chemical/
physical processing and/or modifying polymer according to the requirements. Various
functions can be afforded, which are categorized as mechanical, physical, chemical, atid
biological functions. The mechanical functions include abrasion resistance and impact
strength. Non-transparency, heat insulation, soundproof, high absorbency and windbreak
are counted as physical functions. Chemical functions such as heat generation employ
chemical reaction and chemical affinity. Anti-bacteria activity and antiseptic activity belong
to the biological functions.
Shingosen is a typical example of high-touch fiber. Shingosen development from 1971
through 1976 focused on the hand and the silk yarn structure, resulting in four character-
istic types classified as: (I) peach skin, (2) new silky, (3) new spun, and (4) dry touch
{Okamoto and Kajiwara, 1997). Peach skin is represented by artificial suede-type leather,
and has a fluffy peach-skin appearance and soft touch with the microwave structure of
ultra-fine filament. New silky has silk-like characteristics with more voluminous hand and
drape ability and the dry scrooping feeling, where alkali weight reduction is applied to the
blended yarn of different shrinkage and non-circular cross-seclion. Wool-like character-
istics along with crispness and stifFness are afforded to new spun polyester fabrics by false
twisting after air-jet entanglement of yarns of different physical properties. Dry touch is
characterized by the rayon-like dry touch and heavy drape achieved by high-density
weaving and adding inorganic micro-particles to produce the dry-touch effect.
The following sections introduce new fibers that have appeared in the Japanese market
in three categories: (I) high-performance fiber, (2) high-function fiber, and (3) high-touch
fiber as classified above. Many new fibers cannot be uniquely classified in a single category,
and may possess multiple characteristics as realized below.
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New Fibers from Japan
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Kajiwara. Nori and Okamoto
Functional Pnf*r
Wrapping Mawriala
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Hand
'— High-Touch Fiber Appearance
appeals the human seniie (such as touch, Luster
sight, etc.) through (he shape and structure
of fiber
weight. A dilute solution of high molecular weight polyethylene forms gel, which is
extruded and drawn with a high ratio to align polyethylene molecules in an idea! structure.
Carbon fiber is an example of inorganic super fiber produced by sintering organic fiber.
Carbon fiber wasfirstdeveloped by carbonizing rayon in the 1950s. A breakthrough in the
carbon fiber production took place around 1959 in Japan by employing polyacrylonitrile or
Table III
Commercially Available Super Fibers
pitch fiber as the starting material. As carbonization proceeds according to the scheme
shown in Fig. 3, graphite is formed. Following carbon fiber, continuous silicon carbide fiber
was developed from organosilicon polymer fiber. Those inorganic fibers possess an
extremely high temperature resistance, and are applied mainly to fiber-reinforced compo-
sites.
Super fibers in three classes will be described in some detail below,
PAN
CN CN CN CN CN pitch
oxidaHon
cTO88-1inkiDg reaction
cyclization reaction
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de-Ditridrag reaction
over1500°C
-H2
difference. In the strict sense (in terms of the SI unit), Zylon*' (PBO fiber) was the first
organic fiber stronger than steel, possessing the strength of 584 kg/mm'.
The development of PBO fiber started in the late 1970s from the Air Force Ordered
Polymers Research Program, where PBZT (see Table I) was first synthesized (Kummer,
1991; Ulrich, 1987). A series of poly-benzazole groups were patented in the 1980s {see Fig.
4) (Allen et ai., 1981,1985; Wolfe and Loo, 1980; Wolfe et al., 1985), although the tenacity
was around 2-3 GPa In the same order as para-ardmid. Poly-benzazole is prepared by
polycondensation in the polyphosphoric acid solution of monomers. PBO is obtained by
polycondensation of diamino-resorcinol and terephthalic acid as shown in Fig. 5. Air-gap
wet spinning is applied lo PBO, but the air-gap distance is about 10 times longer than that
(5- 10 mm) for PPTA because of the slow orientation relaxation of Ihe PBO molecular
chain (Odell et al., 1993). The PBO dope is iyotropic. The rigid PBO chains orient easily and
assume an almost extended conformation during spinning. Thus the PBO chain is oriented
over 0.95 (in terms of the orientation factor) in the microfibril of diameter 10-50 nm formed
during spinning (Radler et ai, 1994). The structure of as-spun PBO fiber is shown in Fig. 6
(Kitagawa et a!., 1998), where the a-axis is oriented in the radial direction of the fiber cross-
section. Voids are observed between microfibrils except the skin layer of about 0.2 ^m in
thickness.
Table IV
Main Applications of Super Fibers and their Characteristics
As metitioned above, Zylon'^^ (commercial PBO fiber) possesses the highest tenacity and
modulus among organic fibers available today (see Table V), Its excellent heat resistance
and flame resistance are confirmed by the decomposition temperature and the limiting
oxygen index (LOI) as high as 650 C and 68, respectively, as demonstrated in Figures 7 and
8. Zylon* is commercially available as filament, chopped fiber, spun yam, and staple.
Although PBO exhibits excellent tensile strength and thermal characteristics, its
compressive strength as reinforcing material for ACM is unsatisfactorily low. The
compressive stress and strain of PBO were evaluated as 0.4 GPa and 0.15%, respectively,
by the 3-point bending test of a composite test bar, while those of carbon fiber were
evaluated as 2.1 GPa and 0,9%. respectively. The lack of lateral strength in PBO is
attributed to the weak intermolecular interaction, and much effort has been focused on
incorporating the effective intermolecular hydrogen bonds while keeping the rigid rod
backbone structure. Sikkema (1998) succeeded in synthesizing a new rigid polymer from
2,3,5,6-tetraaminopyridine and 2,6-dihydroxyterephthalic acid (PIPD, which is routinely
called M5), which has a rigid backbone and is physically cross-linked by hydrogen bonds
through neighboring hydroxyl groups. (See Fig. 9 for the molecular structure.) M5 fiber
possesses the tenacity of 4.0 GPa, the elongation modulus of 330 GPa, the compressive
stress of 1,0 GPa, and the compressive strain of 0.3%.
r 1
O «-v u-i O OO O
3 '2
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(N — — OO
c -a
II o o o o
o 00 o o
r-- —
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f:3 f n •^ O^ •^t
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Is 6 OJ fl W -2
J C O 3
*a M
O M
N
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trans-poly-t^phenylenebcnzobisoxuole cts-poly-p-phenylenebenzobistmiduole
N
trans-poly-p-phenylenebenzobisthtuole poly (2.5-benzoxazole)
N
ff w-^' II
cts-poly-p-phenylencbenzobistbiuole poty (2,6-bcnzothiazole)
Fig. 4 Poly-benzazole family
the maximum tenacity calculated from the ideal crystal. The concept of gel spinning
(Lemstra ei al., 1987) is illustrated in Fig. 10. Here the idea stemmed from how to make
polyethylene fiber with extended chain without folding and amorphous defect. That is,
high-molecular weight polyethylene should be used in order to reduce the chain ends, and
the resulting fiber should be drawn at high ratio. Gel-like solution is prepared by dissolving
polyethylene in decalin or paraffin just above the overlapping concentration (eliminate the
defect due to entanglement), and is extruded through a nozzle to form gel-like fiber, which
can be drawn at a high ratio.
According to the original concept of gel spinning, the polymer concentration of the dope
HOOC
HjN
Diamino-resorcinol- HCl 2
PPA
"N
PBO
Fig. 5 PBO polymerization scheme
microfibril microvoid
\ / surface
The i-uis of crystal ii radially
orienied in i fiber.
\
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\
microfibril microvoid
PBO moteculej are highly
oriented in the microfibri].
(orientation factor > 0.95)
Fig. 6 Structure model of as-spun PBO fiber
should be low (0.5-1 wt%) in the range of the semi-dilute region. The molecular weight is
about 1,000.000. and polyethylene has no branching. Gel is extruded in water to quench,
and then drawn. The drawing rate should be kept as low as about 1 m/min in order to
achieve a high drawing ratio, so that the productivity and efficiency are not suitable for a
large-scale commercial production.
Industrial gel spinning employs a concentrated solution (over 10 wt%) of high-
molecular weight (about 4.000,0(K)) polyethylene, which is dry-spun with a high-speed
take-up {Yasuda et ai, 1991). The key to industrial gel spinning is the preparation of the
homogeneous polyethylene solution of high concentration. Since the concentrated solution
is highly viscoelastic due to chain entanglement, it exhibits a strong normal stress effect,
which prevents homogeneous dissolution by stirring. To avoid this effect, polyethylene
spherulites are separated from the homogeneous dilute solution by cooling. Then wet
spherulites are padded and dispersed in solvent with a high concentration. This two-step
dissolution allows homogeneously dispersed polyethylene solution of a high concentration
to be prepared where the chain entanglement is much reduced. The dispersed gel-like
70
ZYLON
•S 60
50
c PBI
PPS
O) 40
X
O 30
o> Polyester m-Aramid p-Aramid
_c 20
'^3
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10
0
0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700
Melting or Decomposition Temp. CO
Fig. 7 Limiting oxygen index and melting/decomposing temperature of organic fibers
solution is dry-spun at a few hundred m/min, and drawn directly just below the nozzle.
Ahhough a mechanism of fiber formation in the industrial gel spinning process is not yet
completely clear, the commercial product Dyneema'' (from Toyobo) achieved the tenacity
2.6-4.0 GPa.
Since polyethylene has a low density (0.97 g/cm^), Dyneema® is the lightest super fiber
available commercially. The elongation at break is relatively high at 3.7-4.0%, resulting in
the high wear resistance and high impact strength of Dyneema". Due to the flexibility of
polyethylene chain. Dyneema " has the highest knotting strength (14-23 g/denier), easy for
knitting and weaving. The light fastness and chemical resistance are also excellent, but the
melting temperature is low (around 150X). The creep characteristic is not particularly
good in comparison with other super fibers.
Fig. 8 High-lempcrature abrasion lesl (lop) and flame-resistance test (bottom). Tbe abrasion test was
performed at 450X for 20 min wilh ihe load 300 g/cm* roialing al 300 rpm, and the flame-
resistance test according to JIS L1091. Plain fabrics of #20 spun yard were employed for the tests
voids. HT has a modulus around 230-300 GPa and a tenacity from 3 to 7 GPa. while the
modulus of HM is around 400 GPa for PAN-type and 500-800 GPa for pitch-type.
Continuous silicon carbide (SiC) fiber was developed in the niid-1970s by sintering
organosilicon polymer (PCS; polycarbosilane) (Yajima, 1985). PCS is composed of two
units represented by -((-CH3)2SiCH2-),,,- and -(-(CH_0HSiCH2-),,'. PCS is spun and is
cross-linked so as not to melt during sintering. Heat oxidation or electron irradiation is
AKZ0M5
Super-drBwing passible
Soiulion ;
Super-drawing possible
applied to cross-link PCS (M^ ^ 2000, r^, ss 500 K) in He atmosphere in order to control
the oxygen content in the product. The process is shown in Fig. 13. When sintering is
performed on electron-irradiated PCS in hydrogen atmosphere, pure SiC fiber (including
no oxygen, commercially available as Hl-Nicalon-S) is produced (Takeda ei al., 1996),
which shows no deterioration of the tensile strength even at 1800 K and has a modulus as
high as 420 GPa. Since PCS is conventionally cross-linked by heat oxidation, about 12 wt%
oxygen is contained in SiC fiber. Thus SiC fiber is composed of p-SiC microcrystallines
(about 2 nm in diameter) homogeneously dispersed in amorphous Si-C-O matrix. The size
of p-SiC microcrystalline increases with a decrease in the oxygen content in SiC fiber, and
pure SiC fiber is composed of densely packed p-SiC microcrystallines of 20 nm in diameter.
Sintering of amorphous SiC fiber at over 1800 K results in pure SiC fiber of high modulus.
Boron or aluminum is added as sintering promoter.
The characteristics of continuous ceramic fibers are summarized in Table VI. Those
ceramic fibers possess an excellent creep characteristic at high temperature (up to 2100 K),
and are applied to turbine blades and other components used at an elevated temperature as
continuous fiber reinforced ceramic composites (CFCC).
Spinning Carbonization
I
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Organic fiber
Carbon fiber
HPCF-HT
Thermal stabilization
(oxidation) GPCF (carbon)
1
200-300T Graphitization
Stabilized fiber I
Graphite fiber
HPCF-HM
GPCF (graphite)
Fig. II Schematic process of carbon fiber production
CHa H CHaH
PCS: -Sl-C-Sl-C-
H H CHs H
Irradiation •<
CHa H
I I I I I I
O .,
SS „ o
— (N rj
CD A 2
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cn U — (N — O I I
U — rs —
(J
u o
o
I
f^ (N — — — fi
conventional polyester-fiber fabrics, and the fabrics are recognized as new fabrics breaking
free from imitating natural-fiber fabrics. Those fabrics surpass silk or wool to some extent
with respect to hand, drape, and shape stability.
Two technical innovations can be considered as the key factors that ignited the
technological re-evaluation and recombination leading to the production of novel fabrics.
One is the ultra-fine polyester fiber of less than 0.6 denier and the other is the fiber
possessing a non-circular cross-section including a hollow.
An ultra-fme polyester fiber was the technological extension of the conjugate spinning
developed to produce a high-bulk polyester conjugate fiber for futon-mat tress stuffing. The
newly developed polyester conjugate fiber was more than 30% bulkier than the conven-
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tional zigzag-type crimped polyester stuffing fiber, and it had been a best-selling product in
the 1960s. Tbe conjugate spinning was performed by conjugating two polyester fibers of
different shrinkage characteristics, and the crimp appeared by a subsequent drawing and
thermal treatment after spinning.
Conventional synthetic fiber has a cross-sectional diameter of about 50 ^im. An ultra-fine
fiber is defined (not explicitly) as a fiber less than 0.7 denier. Although it depends on the
density of the fiber, the cross-sectional diameter of 0.5 denier polyester is about 4 [im. In
principle, ultra-fine fibers can be extruded by reducing the polymer output at the spinneret
and drawing with a large ratio. However, polyester for instance cannot be extruded at less
than about 0.15 g/min in practice, because the monofilament will break during the fiber-
forming process just after the extrusion. In order to overcome this problem, the extrusion of
conjugate fibers was extended by modifying the spinneret structure whereby a fiber cross-
section was designed to consist of highly dispersed (alternately arranged) conjugate
components. Here the conjugate spinning is assembled into multiple conjugate spinning
with multiple polymer flows in the specially designed spinneret prior to extrusion. There are
various types of multiple conjugate fibers available, which are classified into two classes
from the technical viewpoint: (i) the islands-in-a-sea type, in which the sea component is
removed by dissolving it in a solvent, and (ii) the separation or splitting type. In either case,
conventional processing (including drawing) can be applied to as-spun fiber, and micro-
fiberization was performed in the form of fabrics.
The surface tension tends to go round the fiber surface and produce a circular cross-
section, so that the idea of making a non-circular cross-section with a specially designed
spinneret (Holland, 1959a, b) had a strong impact on the fiber and textik industry. T-
shaped (preventing the glare observed in a triangle cross-section), pentamerous (a deep-
color effect), and hollow-square-shaped (resilient and light) cross-sections have since been
produced in Japan. The non-circular cross-section produces an unexpected effect on hand,
luster, and drape. A hollow fiber and a thin-and-thick fiber are considered as an extension
of non-circular cross-section.
The combination of ultra-fine fiber and non-circular cross-section technology produced
fabrics completely different from any existing fabrics. Those fabrics (mainly from polyester)
produced by the combination of ultra-fine (conjugate) fiber and non-circular cross-section
have changed the image of synthetic fiber, and obtained tbe social status (a high-touch
fiber) as a high-class fashion material. Here the elementary technologies were developed
from the 1950s to the 1980s, but the amalgamation of those existing technologies resulted in
a new class of fabrics. The elementary technologies were mainly developed for polyester
fiber and include: (i) the ultra-fine filament spinning technology, (ii) the spinning technol-
ogy of filaments with a non-circular cross-section, (iii) the combined-yarn-processing
technology of varying shrinkage, (iv) the combined-yarn-processing technology of varying
linear density, (v) the spinning technology with dispersed micro-particles, (vi) the polymer-
TuMkigfcovettng
TexOlte density Fabrtcitucture
SpMbig HamenU
Wettfn [vducton
modification technology, (vii) the weight-reduction technology, (viii) the napping technol-
ogy, (ix) the coniposite/combined-yam-processing technology, and (x) the heat-treatment
and chemical-processing technology. The combination of these technologies yields the
specific fabric characteristics as shown in Fig. 14. More details are reviewed in Allen et al.
(1985).
Wear comfort is a keyword for the recent development in high-touch fibers. Stretch
ability (elasticity), lightness and cool/dry touch seem to be the targets in high-touch fiber in
these three years. Polymer modification, yarn structure, hollow fiber/yarn, non-circular
cross-section, and micro-pores are the factors to be considered. Technologically those aims
can be achieved by the combination of conjugate spinning and specially designed nozzles.
Fig. 15 demonstrates the principle of conjugate spinning and the specially designed nozzles
for hollow fibers.
Water absorbency can be afforded to hydrophobic polyester by the capillary effect of
micro-pores and/or slits along/between filaments as shown in Fig. 16. A porous hollow fiber
Welky" (Teijin) absorbs sweat through micro-pores into a hollow and sweat diffuses
through a hollow. Sweat then evaporates through micro-pores as shown in Fig. 16.
A good elasticity can be afforded to a polyester yarn by a spring-like structure produced
by thermal treatment of conjugate fiber of two different thermal characteristics. Z-10" (Fig.
17) was the first product of polyester-stretch yam with a hollow yam structure.
The following are some examples, which appeared in the Japanese market in 1999-2000.
nozzle
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fusion
extrude as a single
filament A BA B
nozzle
shape
o
ooo
o o O
o
filament
cross-section + 1o es
Fig. 15 The principle of conjugate spinning and the specially designed nozzles for hoUow fibers
Sweat
Welky®
(Hallow fibar
^ hsorbing sweat
(Capillary effect)
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Siep.1
DifRision
(Hollow inside)
Porous hollow polyester fiber
Welky® (Teijin) Step 4
••»—, livaporaiion
(Towards
Zl,*! U^ a low-pressure side
Welky® (Teijin)
Tcchoofine®
(Asahi Chcmica!)
SpacetnasicnB (Kimray)
Kilarto® (Kanebo)
Fig. 16 Cross-sectJonal view of water absorbent polyester fiber. Porous hollow polyester fiber Welky " is
shown on lop with its sweat-absorbJng mechanistn
Before heat-treatment
After heat-treatment
Fig. 17 Polyesler-stretch yarn Z-10^ (Unitika)
drapability. Because of scrim the size stability is good, and Lamous* has been applied to
home furnishing (Fig. 19) as well as apparels (jackets and coats).
ALS
Asahi Chemical
Fig. 18 Sectional view of Lamous " (Asahi Chemical)
Polyester fiber Kilatt""' has a C-shaped cross-sectioti (Fig. 22), which functions as a hollow.
Kilatt" has all the merits of hollow fiber being light and water absorbent. Since the hollow
emerges at the dyeing process after fabrication, the hollow will not be crashed by false-
twisting as occurs in the conventional hollow fiber.
, Nacre'^
Random conjugate spinning and partial dissolution (Fig. 23) produce thick/thin polyester
fiber {less than 0.1 denier to 2-3 denier) of random-shaped cross-sections with sharp edges.
Here the polymer flow rate of two components is randomly varied at spinning. The fabric
has a natural hand and dry touch.
3.4 Kuraray
Sophrina Shal" is artificial leather produced from the non-woven fabric coated with
polyurethatie. The non-woven fabric is composed of specially spun conjugate fiber, shown
in Fig. 24. When two types of polymers with a different solubility are dissolved in a common
solvent and are spun, a conjugate fiber of the islands-in-a-sea type is formed, where two
polymers compose the islands and sea components, respectively. The bundle of microfibrils
will be obtained by removing the sea component, or the multi-hollow fiber (the lotus root
type) will result by dissolving the island components. These fibers with specific shapes are
non-woven for the basic fabric of artificial leather (Fig. 24).
Fig. 20 Technofine'^ (.top-left), Sheebe" (.top-righl), Noche" tboliom-leli), Gulk " (boiiom-nghij
Pharaoh^
Using a fast coagulation of the solution spinning, acrylic fiber with a Y-shaped cross-
section was deveJoped (Fig. 25). The Y-shaped fin consists of three flat fibers, and it is easily
split at the tip after the finishing. In consequence, the fiber root is coarse, resilient and bulky
while the tip is fine, flexible, and soft. The effect is similar to a natural fur.
Table VII
Polyester Fiber
3.6 Toyobo
Calouge^ . ... -
Polyester fabric is not suitable for autumn/winter clothes because of its cool touch and poor
heat insulation. Polyester hollow fiber supplements the cool touch of polyester fabric by an
air layer trapped in the hollow. Calouge " (Fig. 26) is a hollow fiber (a hollow ratio of 20%),
and Winterthur" is a conjugate fabric of Calouge" and ultra-fine polyester fiber (less than
0.5 denier), developed for men's/ladies' bottoms in autumn and winter.
Cohrfine'^
The characteristic triangular cross-section of cation-dyeable Colorfine'^ promotes the
capillary effect to ensure a quick dry.
3.7 Toray
SiUook y
Sillook Airy^^ (Fig. 27) is a hollow polyester fiber (Karst air hole structure) with a refined
non-circular cross-section. A sharp edge produces an effect of silk-like luster, and the non-
circular cross-section maintains a silky resilient feel. Yet the fiber is light and has good heat
insulation potential. The fiber surface is provided with a lateral micro slit. When woven, the
fabric is crisp and has a dry touch due to the characteristic shape of the cross-section
promoting the capillary effect.
3.8 TeijiD
Aerocapsiile^
Aerocapsule'^ (Fig. 28) has the highest hollow ratio (35-40%) among the polyester hollow
fibers. The tube thickness is calculated as 4.4 |.tm for 3 denier Aerocapsule^ filament, which
corresponds to 0.19 denier polyester filament of a circular cross-^section. Since the apparent
diameter is aboui 60% larger tban the corresponding fiber with the same weight, the fabric
of the same density will have a larger covering factor to reduce the air and light
transmission.
3.9Unitika " •
Z-W (Figures 17 and 30)
Z-10^ was the first stretch polyester with a spring-like yam structure. The conjugate yarn
composed of polyesters with different thermal characteristic crimps into a spiral by heat
treatment, und the spiral yarn structure affords elasticity. Because of stretch ability, the Z-
10" fabric has a characteristic hand of resilience and crispness. Similar polyester stretch
fibers are available from other companies.
TJ- Spinning
t
Windina
*
Drawing
(Then n u-sctling)
pjfjj^ B Comptmcnt
A CotDpDncnt
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I I
2.ak 0030 2
Fig. 24 Specially shaped fiber for artificial leather (left), and the cross-sectional view of SophrinH Shall'^
(rightj
Microart'^
Microart® is a new nylon fiber with a characteristic cross-section. The hollow ratio is as
high as 35%, but the filament has a good resilience. Since the filament surface has a tip of
the order of a micron, the fabric surface structure resembles that of a lotus leaf and has
water repellency besides the dry touch, characteristic luster, and heat-insulation effect (Fig.
31).
The idea to apply the lotus leaf structure for the vapor-permeable water-repellent fabric
was first adopted to the ultra-fine polyester high-density woven fabric with uneven surface
by micro crimp. Microft/Reetas'^, by Teijin.
4. HIGH-FUNCTION FIBER
4.1 Specific Functions Afforded to Fiber
Recently in Japan, a class of fibers was developed with a specific function as a high-function
fiber. Various functions can be afforded, which are categorized as the mechanical, physical,
chemical and biological functions as schematically shown in Fig. 32. Abrasion resistance
and impact strength represent the mechanical functions. Non-transparency, heat-insula-
tion, soundproof, high absorbency and windbreak are counted as physical functions. The
chemical functions such as heat generation employ chemical reaction and chemical afiinlty.
Anti-bacteria activity and antiseptic activity belong to the biological functions.
The examples of high-function fiber are well illustrated in the sports area (Kajiwara and
Miyamoto, 1999). Sports require various functions for the wear as exemplified in Fig. 33.
• CROSS-SECTION
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Cross-section of "PHARAOH"
Sportswear should possess not only the mechanical strength for safety and durahility, but
also various functions for better physical performance including the comfortable in-cloth
environment. Materials for sportswear should be impact-resistant, heat-resistant and/or
abrasion-resistant. Sportswear should permeate/absorb sweat quickly, keep a body warm/
cool, and/or repel rain.
The development of a swimming costume will illustrate the concept of function fibers. Of
the total resistance while swimming 5% is due to the swimming costume. For instance, the
Fig. 29 Esuviron^ (top-left), Cortigo* (top-right). Bulcotty" (boitotn-left), and Cesameine" (bottom-
right)
Cross-section
DA-SD
C-SD
Side View
Before heal-treaiment
After Keat-treatmeni
Fig. 30 Z-10^ spiral crimp by heat treatment, and a blouse made of Z-10*
Fig. 31 Microart*. Cross-sectional view of filatnent and fabrics (top-left), and a coat made of Microarl*
(top-right). The mechanism of water repellency is shown at the bottom
resistanceexertedon the body by water accounts for about lOkg/m" when one swims 100 m
in 50 s. The friction against water will be less without a swimming costume, but water hits
the body to deform. As a consequence, one ean swim faster with a swimming costume
suppressing the beating effect of a soft body. A swimming costume for competition should
fit the body without any air space, and its surface should be smooth. Thus polyurethane
elastic fiber will be the best material for a swimming costume for competition. Two-way
tricot is in general the basic fabric structure for a swimming costume. The next step is how
t;^ swww,
\ snowboard wear, Tennis shirts. voHeybatl shirtsTN.
\ bassball unHorms football slurb, niflby shirts. \ .
/ \ golf stiirts and sladis. N
/ \ ^ ^ - —-^..,__^ baseball unilorms. \
/ __, . j""^-^"ilatlcsshirtsindshorts.\
/ rubdrybiB. ^%^ track uilt^
X \ mMwWt »Mt^orIHna \ ^
\
/ SwImwBir, / \ ^
/ feolards. / Strrtct. mtirlats > r n * * * ^ " \
/ skallno / X \ toMrKlon \
/ costumss / ^ - ^ / \ Strono Swdt-atrsorUno \ / \ \
/ NretlsUncc and iKt-drylno / \ \ \
/ / \ / ElKBcBy \LhMt / \ .. . \ \
/ / / \ UMfWlX \
/ s«B-ihrouoh / \ ^ "rC!!!""! / \ nfladiiv \ \
/ pmanllon / -'^ lo awcuon / \ wnMght \
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r
Propertiess required of sportswear f{*rics, types of corresponding materials, and maior sports in which
they are used
Fig. 33 High-function fibers with the specific function required for various sports
Crost-itctioiwl projedioo
Cenv«nii<ma]
(Smaothneu
AqtupiootB
AqimspccktS
Aquaqwclct)
LyoipecM
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f Watn-nipetlHit prini
LyotpeckS
Nylon Polyurethane fiber CompariEon of the fricltcMul resistance of
Enlarged crosG-sectionsi projection of waicr of Ihe swimmitig uoslunie maierials
swimming coslumc matciial far (Note: The fiicuonal resistance of water
compel Uion for an ideal body is 0 %.)
to make its surface smooth (Niwa, 1996). If the fabric is coated to make its surface smooth,
water trapped between the body and the costume would remain to increase the water
resistance. Thus ultra-fine nylon (4) = 8.5 |im) and polyurethane fiber were knitted into the
high-density fabric Aquapion" (Toray/Mizuno, employed at the Seoul Olympics, 1988)
with a relatively smooth surface (Fig. 34). The swimming costume made of Aquapion " has
a double stretch ability, a better water draining and a smoother surface (about a half
unevenness) than a conventional material, reducing the water-frictional resistance about
10% at a fiow rate of 1.8 m/s.
Aquaspeck" (Toray/Mizuno), developed for the Barcelona Olympics, is a high-density
knitted fabric of ultra-fine polyester and polyurethane, which has an even smoother surface
(50% better than Aquapion") and reduces the water-frictional resistance about 5%.
Water-repellent coating agent is printed on Lyospeck" (developed for the Atlanta
Olympics), which reduces the water-frictional resistance a further 8%. Water should fiow
smoothly at the surface of the swimming costume. Fish secretes viscous liquid to reduce the
fictional resistance, and the dimples on the surface (like golf balls) smooth the water flow at
the surface. A fabric with dimples and coated hydrogel was developed for the swimming
costume for the Sydney Olympics. A similar principle to achieve a low frictional resistance
can be applied to the fabrics for skate and ski costumes.
A fashionable swimming costume requires a coior variation and non-transparency.
Especially a white swimming costume has a problem of becoming see-through when wet.
Bodyshell" (Toray) has a star-shaped core containing non-transparent white pigments,
which scatter incident light in random directions to prevent transparency. On the contrary,
the transparency effect will be promoted by arranging filaments with square-shaped cross-
section in parallel. See Fig. 35.
Specific functions will be afforded to the fabrics by chemical modification of original
polymers, filament/fabric structure and/or addition of active agents. The following
examples will illustrate the recent trend in developing high-function fibers in Japan.
abundant electromagnetic wave radiation may induce many problems Including the
malfunction of the electronic equipment and human health problems. The radiated
electromagnetic waves vary in frequency from 1 to 3000 MHz. Shidenkai" is a cross-
woven fabric of polyester and conductive nylon yarns. Silver-plated conductive fiber is
coated with non-conductive nylon in order to prevent metal allergy and electric shock, and
the pitch of conjugation determines the shield level. Shidenkai^ is capable of shielding over
Core: Polyester
97% of electromagnetic waves in the high-frequency range covering most of the radiated
electromagnetic waves from personal computers, mobile phones, TV, and radios. Because
of silver ion. Shidenkai'- also suppresses the bacteria growth against yellow staphylococcus
and pneumococcus.
' 'i , ,
4.3 Kanebo
Belkouple^'
Bellcouple '•' is a conjugate fiber with a sheath-and-core structure, where the sheath and core
are composed of either pair of low-meiting temperature polyester and regular polyester
(Bellcouple"), regular polyester and low-melting temperature polyester (Bellcoupleot**^), or
regular nylon and regular polyester (BellcoupleNP^). Bellcouple" can be melt-fused (Fig.
36), and Bellcouplea'"^ has high shape stability after thermo-setting.
XI000 XI000
Fig. 39 Cross-sectional view of ShineupEX ". The sheath contains photocatalytic ceramics
Fig. 40 Surface of hollow fiber membrane, and the schematic mechanism of micro-pore formation
Lactron® '' - - ..
Biodegradable polymer polylactic acid can be melt-spun into synthetic fiber, which
possesses similar tensile strength {4.5-5.5 g/denier) as polyester fiber. Kanebo commercia-
lized polylactic acid fiber Lactron". See Teramac^' (Unitika) for more technical details.
4.4 Kuraray
Kuralon'^ K-II
Utilizing the gel spinning technology, where organic solvent and non-solvent are used for
gel formation and coagulation, a new process for polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fiber was
developed. Three types of Kuralon " K-II are commercialized, where the water-soluble type
(a high degree of saponification), the high-tenacity type (a high drawing) and the fibril type
(the conjugate of PVA with different degrees of saponification) are available on the market.
Since the solvent is extracted from the cooled gel fiber, a new process produces homo-
geneous fiber with a circular cross-section unlike conventional wet spinning.
For example, water-soluble Kuralon" K-II is applied for the conjugate yarn with
natural fibers, which produces bulky/light wool yarn with a hollow (Fig. 37). Since the fibril
type Kuralon" K-Il becomes PVA pulp composed of microfibrils of less than I |im by
mechanical beating, it is blended in rubber, cement or plastics as reinforcing material
(Fig. 38).
Fig. 41 Appearance of hollow fibers (SEM picture and a schematic drawing) and a modde (right)
Modified polyester
Polyamid
Fig. 42 Sectional view of the central part of a multi-layer conjugate fiber which reveals structural color
ShineupEX®
ShineupEX* is a conjugate fiber with polyester core and nylon sheath (Fig. 39). Nylon
sheath contains metal/ceramic micro-particles, which decompose any nasty smell by
photocatalytic and neutralization reaction. A sheath-and-core type conjugate fiber is
developed for a variety of higb-function fibers as seen from the examples below.
PET or Nylon
lamellae. The process is schematically shown in Fig. 40. The polyethylene hollow fibers are
assembled in a module (Fig. 41) for purification of water for various purposes. A multi-
layered composite hollow fiber membrane is also available for a degassing module. Here the
non-porous ultra-thin membrane with high gas permselectivity is sandwiched between two
porous membranes.
4.6 Teijin
Morphotex®
Structural color is due to the interference of light as represented by the tropical blue color of
Morpho sulkowskyi wing. Morphotex^ was developed as a structural color fiber by
applying conjugate spinning. The multi-layer concentric conjugate fiber (Fig. 42) of
modified polyester and nylon reveals deep blue color by tbe interference of light reflected
from multi-layers (Tabata ei al., 1998). Since the color is due to the light interference (not
due to tbe dye or colorant), color is deep, limpid and anisotropic.
4.7 Unitika
Thermotron'
Thermotron " (also known as Solara^') was the first heat-regenerating conjugate fiber with
.8 kV K3.BBK la.
Polylactic acid fiber
(blank)
HYGRA
Regular nylon
Water-absorbing polymer
+
Regular nylon
Outmde
ig moisiurt
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Absorbing mtimiutc'
•JJ 1
Human body
Fig. 45 Hygra" (left: cross-sectional view, right: its tnoisture release mechanism)
a core containing zirconium carbide (ZrC). Since ZrC absorbs sunlight (visible and near-
infrared radiation) and emits far-infrared radiation, one feels warmer when one puts a
jacket made of Thermotron" on. Thermocatch "W (a sheath-and-core type acrylic fiber
from Mitsubishi Rayon), MasonicN " (a nylon filament mixed with ceramic micro-particles
from Kanebo), and Lonwave '^ (a hollow polyester fiber mixed with ceramic micro-particles
from Kuraray) are heat-generating fibers based on the same principle. See Fig. 43.
Terraniac '
Biodegradable fiber will become an important issue in the eco society. Polylactic acid (PLA)
is a kind of aliphatic polyester, which is biodegradable. The monomer (lactic acid) is
obtained by bacteria fermentation of starch, and PLA decomposes non-enzymatically in
the natural environment in the primary step (up to A/,> = 10,000-20.000). and further
hydrolyzes to water-soluble lactic acid oligomers by enzymes secreted by bacteria in the
soil. Bacteria eat and digest lactic acid oligomers (and monomers) to water and carbon
dioxide.
Terramac® is a PLA fiber melt-spun from high-molecular weight PLA with the melting
temperature of about 170X. PLA fiber has a melting temperature T,,, = 170X, a specific
gravity of 1.25, a tensile strength of 4.0-6.5 g/denier, and Young's modulus of 50-60 g/
denier, while polyester has 260"C, 1.38, 4.5-8.0 g/denier, and 100-120 g/denier. respec-
tively. Terramac " is commercially available as continuous filament, staple fiber, and short-
cut fiber to apply to various types of non-woven fabric. Fig. 44 shows the decomposing
process of Terramac" in tbe soil. '
yg
Hygra" is a core-and-sheatb type melt-spun conjugate fiber of water-absorbing polymer
(core) and nylon (sheath) (Fig. 45). Water-absorbing polymer will absorb water up to
35 times its weight. Because of the water-absorbing polymer, Hygra" has high moisture
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The work was financially supported by Grant-in-Aid for COE Research No. 10CE2003
(Ministry of Education, Science, Sports and Culture, Japan).
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