Professional Documents
Culture Documents
The Power Of
POSITIVE
REINFORCEMENTS
The Key To
Unleashing
Your Dog’s
True Potential
06
contents
19 34
13 03 A Note From Jean
06 Hollywood’s Little Secret
10
10 Canine Freestyle Inspiration
13 A Dog Is Truly Man’s
(Or Woman’s) Best Friend
16 Search & Rescue and
Law Enforcement Dogs
19 It’s Not Just For Dogs!
23 Your Dog’s Deepest Desire
26 Coming When Called
50
Walking on a Loose Leash 34
Avoiding Food Possessiveness 39
I Love Getting Groomed! 43
Sit, Lie Down and Stand On Command 50
Spin, Roll Over and Figure Eight 58
More FREE Stuff On The Way! 66
16
A Note From Jean
The Power of
POSITIVE Reinforcements By Jean Cote
I would like to personally thank you for downloading my eBook. I can remember a not-so-distant past
when I was in the same shoes as you are, trying to make sense of all the different training philosophies on
the Internet.
Long story short, the end result was a very obedient dog. But the obedience came at the cost of having a
dog who was living in constant fear: my dog didn’t want to get “corrected” or be “dominated.”
Then, I asked myself this very fundamental question: “If I were a dog … how would I like to be trained?”
My answer was a painful pill to swallow, which was that I wouldn’t want to be trained the way that I had
been training my dog. So I knew that I had to make a change—and started reading dog training books and
attending seminars. What I discovered changed my life: my dog stopped living in fear and I was finally able
to communicate with my dog without the use of force or corrections.
What really got me thinking outside the box was reading about animal trainers that were training their
dogs by using only positive reinforcements. And I mean they were the best of the best, world agility cham-
pions and movie-set dog trainers.
This was a massive eye-opener for me because I had always been taught
to punish my dog whenever she “did something wrong.” But positive
reinforcement training is the complete opposite! I learned that, instead,
I needed to reward the good behaviors and choices. So I tried it—and it
worked!
I fell in love with this method of training. After a few weeks of training
with positive reinforcements, I noticed a difference in my dog’s behav-
ior and how she interacted with me. Her tail would start wagging and
I could tell that she was having so much fun with this type of training.
Since then, my focus has been to use this new way of training to strategi-
cally teach my dog to do all sorts of neat tricks. She now can clean up her
toys, fetch, play chess, jump over objects, and much more!
Then I started training and competing in dog agility, and we were very
successful. We’ve even won several 1st place finishes.
So my goal with this eBook is to invite you to have the same experience and transformation with your dog. I’ve
written this eBook to be very easy to follow and understand. Please give it a try with your dog and practice the
exercises given. They will work with dogs of any breed, size or temperament.
If you have any questions, concerns, or need clarification on anything that is in this eBook, you can find me
on the www.dogtrickacademy.com discussion forum.
Best wishes,
Jean Cote
If you’ve never watched the movie, the storyline goes like this: Bingo
is kicked out of the circus for being afraid of jumping through a fire-
lit hoop. A young boy named Chuckie finds him and takes care of
him. But there is one problem: Chuckie’s family is moving 1,000 miles
across the country and his parents won’t allow Bingo to come with
them.
I never realized it at the time, but this movie had a big influence on me. When I reflect back on it, I can see
that that was the moment I decided I wanted a dog, and that I wanted to be best friends with my dog. I was
also amazed at how Bingo was able to do those cool tricks in the movie.
Bingo can be seen doing over 130 different behaviors in the movie. He skateboards, plays video games,
makes phone calls, taps out Morse code, plays chess, catches fish, gives high fives and—my personal fa-
vorite—he even does Chuckie’s math homework!
But it wasn’t easy! I had to invest hundreds (if not thousands) of dollars on dog-training classes, books and
seminars. Most dog-training schools that I turned to were only designed to make the dog obedient, with-
out ever focusing on the cool tasks that I wanted to train my dog in, like playing chess.
And I didn’t quite agree with their training philosophy either. The way that they achieved an obedient dog
was by correcting and dominating the dog. They had silly rules like walking ahead of your dog through a
doorway, and putting the dog onto his back.
This training method and philosophy didn’t produce the result that I wanted. I wanted to become best
friends with my dog, and train my dog to do really cool tricks that I saw in the movies.
It wasn’t until a few years later that I discovered positive reinforcement training. It seemed strange at first
because it is the complete opposite of what everyone else was teaching. The fundamental difference is that
the dog is rewarded for good behaviors and choices … instead of being
punished for the bad ones.
With my first dog, Tobbie, I was naïve and followed the traditional train-
ing as previously explained. But my dog was in a constant state of fear
(due to being constantly corrected). He wouldn’t fetch a ball if his life
depended on it, and we never even went for a walk because he would
bark at everything he saw.
Although I loved Tobbie, we were far from being best friends and I was
never able to teach him any cool tricks. So our relationship never grew
to the level that I wanted to, and the day I moved out of my home, I left
Tobbie in the good care of my sister.
Canine Freestyle
Inspiration
Isn’t YouTube a wonderful thing? A few
years ago, I was browsing the Internet
one night and stumbled upon this You-
Tube video of a Canine Freestyle per-
formance on Britain’s Got Talent.
Personally, I was totally impressed with the tricks and handling displayed by Kate and Gin—so much so
that I began to train my dogs to do the same tricks as in their performance. I trained my dog to stand on
her hind legs and stand tall like a human. It was really fun!
But I think that when most people watch this video, they think to themselves, “This dog is great, but there’s
no way that my dog could do that.”
And that’s totally untrue. In fact, Kate struggled with training her dog in the beginning. She was asked to
leave every dog-training club that she joined because her dog was so badly behaved. They even told her
that she was never going to be able to train her dog!
But what spirit Kate has! She was determined and did not give up. She decided to work hard at training
Gin—and as a result, millions of people can now see her performance on YouTube and be inspired by it.
This story is so inspirational! If Kate could learn how to train her dog, even after being told by the “experts”
that she was a lost cause, then surely you can, too!
And even if you don’t know how to train your dog yet … that’s okay! Everything begins with a thought, a
desire and a vision. If your outcome is to train your dog to do really cool tricks, then there’s a way to train
your dog to do them.
It’s kind of funny: a while back someone had asked me on the www.dogtrickacademy.com discussion fo-
rum how they could train their dog to jump rope. With my limited imagination, I told them that it was
impossible because dogs weren’t human. A few days later, another member posted a video of their dog
jumping rope. My belief that it was impossible had clouded my perception of what was actually possible.
I now believe that you can train a dog to do anything you want. So don’t believe it when someone tells you
that you can’t train your dog—because you can!
The way that these dogs are trained is very interesting. Each dog is uniquely trained to help the individual
they will be working with. For example, a dog who is going to assist a person in a wheelchair is trained to
pick up objects from the floor, whereas a dog who will be assisting a blind owner might be trained to avoid
obstacles.
The skills taught are always dependent on the particular disability the dog will be helping with. It can be a
variety of tasks, including opening and closing doors, turning lights on and off, and even helping with the
laundry.
Now, this does not mean that the dogs who do not pass the tests are
unworthy—quite the contrary. Any dog can be trained with enough pa-
tience and determination. But because a disabled person relies heavily
on their dog, it is important that these dogs be the best-tempered dogs “Does positive reinforcement
possible, so as to avoid any problems down the line. training work? Yes very much so.
My 2 ½ year old youngster “Ra
Kismet” was recently attacked
Once the trainers find a dog who suits their high standards, they be- whilst out walking with me by
gin the training. They start with basic obedience behaviors like sit, stay, another dog. Fortunately we both
come, down, heel. They then train the disability-related tasks that the escaped physical injury but it left
my boy psychologically scarred.
person will need, such as detecting medical problems. So much so, that if he heard or
saw another dog, he went into a
These dogs are trained for approximately 120 hours over the course of total over-reaction tantrum to a
point where all I could do was
six months or more! And if the dog is required to do a lot of tasks, for ‘hang on’.
example when helping a quadriplegic person, then it might take up to
two years and $20,000 to train that particular dog. Six weeks later, Ra Kismet, with
the aid of Positive Reinforcement
Training is now happily trotting
Why am I talking about service dogs? Because I want to inspire you! past dogs barking behind fences,
seen or otherwise, to a point
where after the occasional glance
You can use the same training concepts practiced by these professional in the direction of the barking
dog trainers to train your own dog at home. Yes, this means that you can dogs, he will re-set himself, tail
train your dog to help with the laundry or turn the lights off if you want wagging madly and his trauma to-
tally forgotten. All this was done
to! on a loose lead, soft collar using
click/treat. Positive Reinforcement
And the best part is that you can achieve this by training only for 15 to Training is, in my opinion, the
only way to train. Not only does it
20 minutes a day. I know that this might sound impossible, but it’s true! result in a well-mannered dog, but
This is the way that I’ve trained my dogs to do their really cool tricks, and one who’s so happy to work with
I rarely trained more than that per day. you, loves you and bonds with you
in the way ‘man or woman’s best
friend’ should, with complete love
Wouldn’t it be awesome if your dog could help you around the house? I
and loyalty.“ - Mary K Gill &
think so.
Ra Kismet
We’re all familiar with the classic image of a man trapped up to his neck
in snow due to an avalanche and saved by a search and rescue dog. These
dogs are incredible! They can find missing children and locate specific
scent derived from a piece of clothing.
Some of these dogs are even trained to detect explosives. You might have
seen them at the airport. They are actually highly accurate.
These dogs are highly trained and they begin the training as puppies.
They first train the basic obedience skills so that the dog is well behaved
in a variety of locations, and then they train to detect specific smells.
So, how does this relate to your dog? You can use the same training tech-
niques used to train search and rescue dogs to train your dog to find
items in your home. You could train your dog to find your lost keys or
TV remote control. “The power of a clicker and
A few years ago, I trained my dog, Chase, to find my keys. I’d spray a little positive reinforcement is life-
changing. It’s been called bribery
garlic juice on them to make them easier to find, and then I’d hide them by those who don’t understand.
all over the house. I would put them behind the bed, on the couch and on But why would I want to punish
the computer desk. Chase was so excited to look for those keys. We really my dog for being afraid? Or pun-
ish a dog simply because they just
had a blast playing this game. might not understand what I want
them to do? And that’s essentially
These sorts of tasks can be extremely beneficial, especially if you often what I was being asked to do.
lose or forget your keys. The purpose is really to stimulate your dog. Dogs When I started treating her with
really depend on their noses for hunting, so you might as well use their the respect she so deserved, and
drive for something constructive. rewarding her for all her good be-
havior, her whole attitude changed
- much the same as happens with
Need help training your dog? “Find the Keys” is one of the dog training us as humans. The bond that has
challenges over at www.dogtrickacademy.com and you are welcome to developed between my dogs and
me is based on mutual respect and
join in! trust, and is deeper than one can
imagine. Positive reinforcement
training is the best and only way
to go - our dogs deserve nothing
less.” -Jackie & Makena
A little while ago, I couldn’t believe what I had just seen… A new mem-
ber had just joined the www.dogtrickacademy.com discussion forum,
and she mentioned that she had trained her cat to do all sorts of tricks.
I was a little skeptical, because I had always been told that cats are not
trainable. To be honest, I was expecting a cheesy trick like a cat chasing
a red dot, which they all do.
But when she posted some videos, I was utterly amazed at what she
had accomplished! Her cat had been trained to respond to the com-
mon obedience commands such as sit, down and stand. But what re-
ally impressed me was her cat doing all sorts of tricks—some that were
incredibly advanced, like leapfrogging over her dog.
If she can train her cat to be well behaved and do tricks, surely you can “I used to be a corrective based
trainer, but I slowly started chang-
do the same with your dog! Right? ing my methods as I got into
adopting special needs dogs. But
This story brought back memories of a trainer I used to be good friends one very special dog has com-
pletely changed me into a Positive
with. She desperately wanted to go to dog-obedience school, but didn’t Reinforcement trainer. Oliver is a
know how well received she would be—because she kind of had a spe- street dog with serious fear-based
cial request that not too many students had. aggression. I started out with
Oliver using a mix of corrective
methods and positive methods.
Her request was definitely special: she wanted to train her pig instead But Ollie kept getting worse, not
of a dog. And, surprisingly, she found a good and open-minded train- better. I talked to other trainers in
town, and they all were telling me
ing facility that allowed her to bring her pig in for training classes. to keep doing what I was doing...
This training class focused on positive reinforcement training and, But I knew it was wrong. Oliver
amazingly, it worked! By the end of her training, her pig was just as certainly needed a different ap-
proach.
trained as the dogs… And she even continued her training into agility
and her pig was able to complete agility courses. I began joining forums, and
reading books recommended to
me, and have completely crossed
How amazing is that? Again, if someone can train a pig to behave, sure- over to the positive side. I am still
ly you can train your dog, too! working on issues that my igno-
rance caused with Ollie, but we are
slowly overcoming his fears.”
It’s no secret that I’m a “seminar junkie.” I love learning and using my
newfound knowledge to improve my life. I attended this one particular -Sara & Her Dogs
Oliver, Mouse, Boo, Scout and Zoe
seminar, and the information presented was a bit of an eye-opener for
me.
The presenter talked about how whales are trained to jump out of the water. And, to my surprise, the big-
gest misconception is that people believe they are trained with electric shocks. This couldn’t be further
from the truth!
Whales are actually trained with positive reinforcements. They are taught that if they jump out of the water
and make a big splash, they will receive a delicious fish (or several).
There are many ways to train a whale. One of them is by tying a rope from one end of the pool to the other.
Then, the whale is given a fish each time it swims above the rope. They gradually move the rope higher
and higher until the whale has no choice but to jump out of the water to go above the rope and get the fish.
I think that it’s incredible how we can train such large animals simply by strategically giving positive rein-
forcements. And what’s really cool is that your dog can be trained the same way!
Now, think about your dog’s behavior and analyze his excitement to each one of these primary reinforce-
ments. Which one of these excites your dog the most? Rate them all on a scale of 1 to 10.
Your results are probably going to be different from mine, and that’s perfectly okay! All this test does is
tell you what you should be training your dog with. With my dog, Onyx, I would primarily use treats but
would also use verbal praise as she values both.
Next, you need to dive a little deeper into this primary reinforcement. Within each group, there are sub-
categories of reinforcements, and your dog is going to respond to each one differently.
Let’s take food and treats for example. This is a very big category that could include all sorts of foods such
as kibble, broccoli and steak. It helps to be specific in what your dog values, because it tells you what you
should be using to train your dog.
Make a list of what your dog values for each of the primary reinforcements. This can be anything from your
dog’s favorite dog treat, to his favorite toy, a special word or tone of voice, or a special place that he likes to
be touched.
Verbal Praise
1. “Good girl!”
2. “Yeah!”
3. “Woo-hoo!”
Physical Touch
Your list is not going to be the same as mine. Every dog is unique and your dog will value different things.
I even had a dog on the www.dogtrickacademy.com discussion forum who valued peas and carrots more
than meat. How about that!?
The positive reinforcement you choose for training your dog should ideally be consumed in less than five
seconds. This is to allow you to practice numerous repetitions in a short amount of time.
Let’s say that you were to give your dog a cookie each time he did something right. Then your dog would
spend 30 seconds or so eating the cookie and cleaning up the crumbs, plus he would get full after only five
or six cookies. So a cookie is not ideal for training. But if you were to train with pea-sized treats, then they
would be eaten in less than two seconds and your dog wouldn’t even be full after five minutes of training.
I have one more tip for you! Create variety in your positive reinforcements so that your training sessions
don’t become boring and predictable. Train your dog with chicken one day, sausages the next, and steak
the following day.
You should now be ready to start training your dog! Have fun!
In this training guide, I will discuss the potential reasons your dog might not be willing to come to you.
Then, I will give you three simple exercises that you can practice at home that will get your dog to come
running.
The first thing that you must evaluate is what’s in it for your dog? Is coming to you a rewarding or painful
experience?
A dog runs out of the front door and runs freely around
the neighborhood. The owner panics and desperately
tries to get the dog to come back. He tries yelling the
dog’s name but the dog doesn’t respond. Then he tries
yelling, “Come” and still the dog ignores him.
Imagine the dog, bored out of his mind and locked up inside the house all day. All the dog wants to do is
experience a little freedom, explore the world and feel alive. So when the dog sees the front door standing
wide open, he sees it as an opportunity to experience these things.
And as soon as the dog runs out of the front door, that behavior is instantly rewarded. He gets to run any-
where he wants to, sniff anything he wants to … everything is rewarding to him!
Why would the dog ever go back to his owner? Especially since the owner is so angry the dog knows he’s going
to get punished once he comes back.
The dog will weigh up both options, and the one that is most rewarding will win every time. So the dog
weighs up: running free and feeling alive—or returning to the owner and getting scolded. That’s a no-
brainer for most dogs.
The owner in this scenario is well intentioned: he wanted to “punish” the dog for running out of the front
door so that it never happens again. But all the dog understands is that coming back to him is a painful
experience.
By understanding the power of positive reinforcements, you can analyze situations and see what reinforces
your dog. This is an invaluable tool that you must master to become a great trainer.
Ideally, you would want to prevent this behavior by training the dog to remain indoors. But new dog-
owners might not be prepared or have the experience to train this before it happens. So, here’s what I would
do if I were in the shoes of the owner:
Assuming that they lived in a residential area with cars driving regularly, I would have no choice but to go
after the dog. But here’s what I would do differently: I would not get angry; I would entice the dog to come
to me and sound exciting. This way, the dog would see that coming to me is something pleasurable. I would
even give the dog a treat for coming to me—if I didn’t have one, I’d bring the dog home and give him a treat.
But afterwards, I would immediately start training the dog to stay indoors when the door is open. I would
do this by rewarding the dog for making the good choice of remaining inside the house. And I would do it
very slowly and incrementally, like this:
1) First, I would open the door slightly and analyze the dog’s behavior. If the dog remained calm
and focused on me, then I’d throw him a treat.
2) Then, I would continue to reward the dog for remaining calmly inside the house while I slowly
opened the door until it was fully open. I would also keep a hand on the handle so that I could
quickly close it in the event that he decided to run outside.
3) Finally, I would challenge the dog by making it enticing to run outside, while continuing to
reward his good choice of staying calmly inside the house. I would walk outside and out of view
for a few seconds, or throw a toy outside and reward the behavior of staying inside.
By practicing this training game with your dog, you’ll be teaching him that it is much more pleasurable to
stay inside the house as opposed to running out of the front door. Plus, it will be extremely beneficial when
you bring in groceries or anytime you need the door open for a while.
You can even continue building on this training game! You can add a “break” command to let your dog
know that he’s allowed to go outside. But make sure that you reward him when he comes back inside so
that he still sees value in being inside the house.
Below are some easy exercises that you can practice with your dog. They are the same exercises that I’ve used
to train my dog to come on command.
Requirements:
• A helper
• Your dog’s primary reinforcement
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to teach your dog to come to you upon hearing his name or the command
“Come,” and that coming to you is rewarding.
Set-Up:
Pick a large room in your home that is not distracting to your dog. Stand about six to eight feet away from
your helper, so that your dog can run back and forth between the two of you.
Exercise:
1. Have your dog’s primary reinforcement in your hands or ready to give it once your dog gets to you.
2. Begin the exercise by asking your helper to hold your dog. Then call your dog’s name and entice your
dog to come to you. (You can alternatively use the command “Come.”)
3. As soon as your dog gets to you, immediately give him the positive reinforcement.
4. Now it’s your helper’s turn. Ask your helper to call your dog’s name and to give him a positive reinforce
ment once the dog gets to him.
Step-1 Step-2
Step-3 Step-4
Summary:
Practice this exercise a dozen of times or so every day for a week. You’ll instantly see a difference in your
dog’s response to his name—I guarantee it!
Requirements:
• A helper
• A large outdoor area
• Your dog’s primary reinforcement
Description:
The purpose of this drill is to build your dog’s drive to come to you—so that your dog comes running as
fast as possible!
Set-Up:
Find a large outdoor area where you can train your dog off-leash, like a backyard or a fenced-in park that
has no distractions nearby (including other dogs).
Instruct your helper to hold on to your dog until you call your dog’s name or say the “Come” command. A
practical way for your helper to hold your dog is by holding the chest area, so that the dog can look at you
as you walk away from him (see picture).
Exercise:
1. Begin this exercise by asking your helper to hold your dog while you walk about eight feet away.
Then, try to entice your dog to come to you using your voice.
You can do that by saying, “Are you ready?” “Want to do something fun?” in an exciting and cheerful tone
of voice. But do not say your dog’s name or the “Come” command, as this will be the release word.
2. Once your dog is focused entirely on you, say your dog’s name or the “Come” command. And as you
say it, your helper should immediately let go of your dog. This will result in your dog coming to you
much faster than usual.
3. As soon as your dog gets to you, immediately give him the positive reinforcement.
4. Now it’s your helper’s turn. Ask your helper to call your dog’s name and to give him a positive reinforce
ment once the dog gets to him.
Tip:
To build even more drive, wait
until your dog gets halfway to
you, then immediately turn
around and run away from your
dog. This will trigger your dog’s
chasing instinct and your dog
will now run as fast as he can to
get to you.
Summary:
This is my favorite exercise! I
practice it with my dogs all the
time when I am at the park or
when I notice that my dog is
walking too far ahead of me. It
really makes training fun, too!
Description:
The purpose of this drill is to teach your dog to come to you even if there are distractions, and that coming
to you is more pleasurable than investigating the distractions.
Set-Up:
Pick a large area where you can train your dog. It can be either inside or outside—you won’t have to run in
this exercise so it can be done in a smaller area than the previous drill. But you will need to have a mini-
mum of eight feet between you and your helper.
Exercise:
1. Begin this exercise by placing some distracting objects on the floor between you and your helper.
Make it easy for your dog to be successful. Start by placing ‘boring’ distractions like a shoe or newspaper,
then, as your dog learns to ignore those, place more distracting objects like toys and treats.
2. Ask your helper to hold your dog. Then call your dog’s name and entice your dog to come to you. (You
can alternatively use the command “Come.”)
3. As soon as your dog gets to you, immediately give him the positive reinforcement.
4. Now it’s your helper’s turn. Ask your helper to call your dog’s name and to give him a positive reinforce
ment once he gets to him.
Step-1 Step-2
Step-3 Step-4
Tip:
If your dog stops at the distracting object, it means that your dog has made the wrong choice so you should
not give your dog any positive reinforcement. Then, move the distracting object further away from the line
between you and your helper. If your dog goes out of his way to get the distracting object, then you will
need to remove it and use a less distracting object.
Summary:
Your dog will come after practicing the first two exercises, but he most likely won’t do so in a highly
distracting environment. So please practice this exercise—it could save your dog’s life one day.
Her retractable leash was fully extended and her dog was a good 10–15 feet ahead of her. It was almost like
a scene out of a movie, the girl almost having to run to keep up with her dog. I wished that I could have
helped her. Hopefully she will read this eBook. Although this story may seem “extreme,” is it unfortunately
a big problem for many dog owners. Their dog learns early on that pulling on the leash is an acceptable
behavior, and when it’s left unchecked, it turns into a really nasty habit.
The solution is simple. But first, let’s analyze why your dog wants to pull on the leash.
The “traditional” dog trainer will tell you that your dog is pulling on the leash because your dog doesn’t
respect you as a pack leader, or that your dog is trying to dominate you. And that the solution is to correct
him with pops on the leash… But that is all nonsense!
Second, you must reward your dog for the behavior that you want—which is walking nicely with you on
the leash without pulling. You can easily tell your dog, “Good dog!” or give him a treat while he’s walking
nicely with you.
The following exercise is designed to teach your dog not to pull on the leash. It will work with any type of
dog, regardless of size or breed. However, if your dog has developed a habit of pulling on the leash, then it
will take longer to get your dog to stop pulling.
Requirements:
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to teach your dog to become aware of the pressure on his collar and to de-
termine whether the leash is tight or loose. This will also teach him that pulling does not get him closer to
where he wants to go.
Set-Up:
You will need to practice this exercise in a very large outdoor area like a park, a parking lot or a large yard—
somewhere you have lots of room to walk around and won’t be bothered by anyone.
Exercise:
Tip:
Tip:
Summary:
39
The Power of
POSITIVE Reinforcements By Jean Cote
If we got too close to his food bowl, he would stop eating and growl at us. And if we tried to take it away
from him, he would literally bite us.
These mistakes were of our own doing, and it wouldn’t be until a few years later that I realized how my ac-
tions impacted Tobbie’s behavior. Then I learned all about conditioning and counter-conditioning, and I
practiced some simple exercises with my second dog.
The difference was night and day. I went from having a dog who would growl at me, to being able to put
my hand in my dog’s food bowl while she was eating (yes, I’ve actually tried this!).
I created a positive association to being near the food bowl. I gave my dog something incredibly delicious, even
more so than what she was eating so that she would see me as someone who adds value to her food bowl, not
someone who takes it away.
Below, you will find the exercise that I practiced with my dog. Practice it on a daily basis even if your dog
hasn’t shown any signs of food possessiveness. It’s much easier to prevent a problem from occurring than
to have to deal with it once it becomes a habit.
And if you have a puppy, this is the perfect time to do this exercise as the conditioning will last him a life-
time!
CAUTION:
During this exercise, you must be alert and visually attentive to your dog’s responses. Be careful and if you see
your dog showing his teeth, growling, lunging or trying to bite you, you should immediately stop this exercise
and seek professional help. Although this exercise has proven to be extremely beneficial for my dogs, I am in
no way responsible if your dog bites or injures you.
Requirements:
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to associate pleasure to you being near your dog’s food during mealtime, or
while he is eating.
Set-up:
You will need to practice this exercise while your dog is eating from his bowl.
Exercise:
1. To begin this exercise, you will first need to give your dog his regular portioned meal. It can be either
breakfast or dinner.
Step-1
2. While your dog is eating, walk towards your dog and drop
a highly desirable food or treat inside his bowl. It can be steak,
chicken, cheese or anything that your dog would see as more
valuable than his current meal.
3. Practice this exercise for a few days. Then, once your dog be
comes more comfortable with you being near him while he’s
eating, you can begin to touch his body while at the same time
put the higher valued food into his food bowl.
Tip:
Once your dog is comfortable with you being near his food, you
can pick up your dog’s bowl and add the highly desirable food or
treats inside. This way, when you give it back to your dog, it will
be better and tastier!
This same concept can be applied to possessiveness over toys and bones. The only difference is that you
must give your dog something of extreme value (that is more valuable than the toy or bone) as you take it
away. And I recommend that you give your dog his toy or bone again once he’s eaten the delicious treat.
This is a win-win situation for your dog: he gets to eat a delicious treat and he gets his toy or bone back—what
a great deal!
Important:
Be patient with your dog! You should only work at your dog’s current comfort level. If your dog shows signs
of discomfort, then stop there. Throw a few treats in his direction and continue to work at that level until
your dog accepts you coming closer.
43
The Power of
POSITIVE Reinforcements By Jean Cote
But the problem is that Tobbie hated being groomed. In fact, trimming his nails was a huge struggle and
you’d never know when he was going to snap and bite you. It was so bad, that we couldn’t even bring him
to the groomer without worrying about what might happen.
His aggressive behavior diminished greatly once we started to exercise him daily. But his distaste for being
groomed, touched and handled remained. What we did was “bribe” him with treats while we groomed
him. But we had to be quick because as
soon as the food was gone, the bad be-
havior returned.
My dogs now love being groomed! And I’m not exaggerating—one of my dogs will actually jump up on
the grooming table to be brushed. This is solely due to the fact that I created a positive association to being
touched and groomed.
I’ve successfully used this training concept with an older dog, about ten years old, to overcome her fear of
being petted on the head. For some reason, she was fearful of anyone touching her on the head. I suspect
that her previous owner might have hit her.
I practiced the exercise below for one week. The results were remarkable! She was allowing me to touch her
anywhere on her body, including her head and ears!
So if your dog is not enthusiastic about being touched, groomed or examined, then you will love this ex-
ercise! And if you have a puppy, this will be even better because the conditioning that you do now will last
a lifetime!
CAUTION:
During this exercise, you must be alert and visually attentive to your dog’s responses. Be careful and if you see
your dog showing his teeth, growling, lunging or trying to bite you, you should immediately stop this exercise
and seek professional help. Although these exercises have proven to be extremely beneficial for my dogs, I am
in no way responsible if your dog bites or injures you.
Requirements:
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to create a positive association to your touch, so that you can touch any part
of your dog’s body. This is essential to being able to groom your dog.
Set-Up:
Ideally, you should exercise your dog with a walk or a hike before practicing this exercise. This will make
your dog calmer and it will be easier to train him.
Exercise:
Step-1
1. Begin this exercise with your dog in a standing or sitting po
sition. You will also want to have your treats ready in one hand
while leaving your other hand free to touch your dog.
Tip:
Step-2
To make this exercise more efficient, bring a treat to the same hand you’ve touched your dog with before giv-
ing it to your dog. This will increase the value for him of your hand being near his body and touching him (see
attached pictures for clarification).
Requirements:
• A grooming brush
• Highly desirable food or treats Step-1
Description:
Set-Up:
Exercise:
3. Once your dog is calm and relaxed with the sensation of the brush, stroke your dog’s fur once with the
brush and then immediately give him a treat.
Continue practicing this exercise until your dog is comfortable with you brushing every part of his body.
Tip:
As your dog begins to enjoy being brushed (due to the treats being given), you can increase the amount of
brush strokes for every treat that you give. You could stroke your dog two, three or four times before giving
him a treat.
Summary:
I know that this exercise is time-consuming, but the results are well worth it! The time that you spend now
will give you a dog who enjoys being groomed.
Requirements:
• A helper
• A nail clipper
• Highly desirable food or treats
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to create a positive association to the sight and sensation of clipping your
dog’s nails. This is such a great exercise to practice with your dog, because once this is trained correctly,
trimming your dog’s nails will be no big deal.
Set-Up:
Since you will have both hands tied up with your dog’s paw and nail clippers, your helper will be in charge
of giving your dog a treat at the right moment. Let your helper read these instructions.
Exercise:
1. Begin this exercise by picking up your dog’s paw with one hand, and placing the nail clippers adjacent
to the paw with your other hand. The goal is get your dog to feel the nail clippers without trimming any
nails yet.
As soon as the nail clippers are touching your dog’s paw, your helper should immediately give your dog a
treat.
Step-1
Practice this simple exercise with all four paws, and don’t pro-
ceed further until a day or two later.
2. Once your dog is comfortable with seeing and feeling the nail
clippers, the next step is to actually trim
one of your dog’s nails.
Begin by picking up one of your dog’s paws with one hand, and
trimming a nail with the nail clippers with your other hand.
Each time a nail has been clipped, your helper should immedi-
ately give your dog a treat.
Tip:
You don’t have to trim all of your dog’s nails all at once! The
objective is to make trimming your dog’s nails a pleasant ex-
perience for your dog. So if your dog is becoming anxious or
nervous, let him go and continue this exercise a few hours later.
Summary: Step-2
This might be another time-consuming exercise, but the conditioning that you do now will pay off later,
when you will be able to trim your dog’s nails with ease.
Personally, I use the basic obedience behaviors like “Sit” and “Down” to control my dog in highly distract-
ing environments and dangerous situations. For example, I always get my dog to sit before going outside
or exiting a vehicle. And if there is another dog nearby, I can get my dog to sit quietly while she watches
him walk by.
But if this doesn’t convince you to train the basics, this should: by mastering the basics, you will be laying
the foundations for training more advanced behaviors. Because what you really learn while training the
basics is the mechanism of behavior conditioning.
In practical terms, training your dog to do a fancy trick such as “Spin” is done using the same techniques
as for the basic obedience behaviors.
There are two ways that you can teach your dog the basic obedience behaviors. You can capture it by wait-
ing for your dog to do it and reward it with a positive reinforcement. Or, you can lure the dog into the
position by using a piece of food.
Both of these training techniques will work. The capturing method might take a while to get your dog to
offer all three behaviors, but if you are patient then this will work. I personally prefer the luring technique
and I focus my training guides on this training method.
The only drawback to luring is that it will only work if your dog is food-motivated. If your dog has no in-
terest in food, then you will have to use the capturing method. Some more advanced training techniques
like shaping and targeting could be used, but because of their complexity, I cannot discuss them in length
in this eBook.
Before you begin the exercises below, it is extremely important that you first find a food or treat that your
dog really loves. It must be something that excites your dog to the point where he would do anything to get
it. It can be anything he loves—chicken, sausages, beef, liver, etc.
Requirements:
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to familiarize yourself and your dog with the luring technique by getting
your dog in the “Sit” position.
Set-Up:
Find a non-distracting environment where your dog can focus entirely on you without getting interrupted
or distracted. It can be anywhere—for example, your living room, your basement or your bedroom.
Exercise:
1. Begin this exercise by holding a treat in front of your dog’s nose. But do not let your dog eat the treat
until he is in the “Sit” position.
2. Next, move your treat upwards and forwards so that your hand moves towards your dog’s eyes and ears.
3. When you move the treat in this manner, your dog will have no choice but to “Sit” in order to follow the
treat. This gives you the opportunity to reinforce the behavior of sitting. So as soon as your dog sits, im
mediately release the treat and let your dog eat it.
4. Once your dog has mastered your lure and is easily lured into the sit position, you may want to add a
“Sit” command. You can do this by saying it one second before you lure your dog into the position.
Step-1 Step-2
Step-3
Tip: In order for this training technique to work properly, you must have precise timing. This means that
each step must take place within one second of the previous one.
Command Only:
It may take your dog a week or two before he can perform the behavior without you having to lure him.
This is normal and it’s just a matter of repetitions. So keep practicing! If your dog is really not “getting it,”
then come to the www.dogtrickacademy.com discussion forum and we will help you.
Requirements:
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to familiarize yourself and your dog with the luring technique and to teach
your dog the “Down” position.
Set-Up:
You can train this behavior with your dog starting from either a sitting or standing position. But I person-
ally find it easier to begin from a sitting position
Exercise:
1. Begin this exercise by holding a treat in front of your dog’s nose. But do not let your dog eat the treat
until he is in the “Down” position
2. Next, move your treat downwards so that your hand moves towards the middle of your dog’s front legs.
3. When you move the treat in this manner, your dog will have no choice but to “Lie down” in order to
follow the treat. This gives you the opportunity to reinforce the behavior of lying down. So as soon as
your dog lies down, immediately release the treat and let your dog eat it.
If your dog has trouble following the lure, try releasing it halfway down and gradually move it lower until
you can get your dog into the down position. And if you have a small dog, you may want to practice by the
edge of stairs, so that you can move your lure lower than your dog.
4. Once your dog has mastered your lure and is easily lured into the down position, you may want to add
a “Down” command. You can do this by saying it one second before you lure your dog into the position.
Step-1 Step-2
Step-3 Step-4
Tip:
Once your dog has mastered both the sit and down behaviors, you can easily alternate between the two—
but be sure to give your dog a treat for each behavior!
Command Only:
It may take your dog a week or two before he can perform the behavior without you having to lure him.
This is normal and it’s just a case of repetition. So keep practicing! If your dog is really not “getting it,” then
come to the www.dogtrickacademy.com discussion forum and we will help you.
Requirements:
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to familiarize yourself and your dog with the luring technique and to teach
your dog the “Stand” position.
Set-Up:
You can train this behavior with your dog starting from either a sitting or down position. But I personally
find it easier to begin from a sitting position
Exercise:
1. Begin this exercise by holding a treat in front of your dog’s nose. But do not let your dog eat the treat
until he is in the “Stand” position
2. Next, move your treat backwards towards you so that your hand moves away from your dog.
3. When you move the treat in this manner, your dog will have no choice but to “Stand” in order to follow
the treat. This gives you the opportunity to reinforce the behavior of standing.
Make sure that you move your lure just enough so that your dog’s hind legs are straightened. Be careful not
to lure your dog too far, as you would then be rewarding your dog for walking instead of standing.
4. Once your dog has mastered your lure, and is easily lured into the stand position, you may want to add
a “Stand” command. You can do this by saying it one second before you lure your dog into the position.
Step-1
Step-2 Step-3
Tip:
A really fun game to challenge your dog is to alternate randomly between all three behaviors. So you could
do: “Sit, Down, Stand” and then do “Down, Stand, Sit.” There are actually 27 different combinations! Try
it—but make sure that you give your dog a treat after each one.
Command Only:
It may take your dog a week or two before he can perform the behavior without you having to lure him.
This is normal and it’s just a matter of repetitions. So keep practicing! If your dog is really not “getting it,”
then come to the www.dogtrickacademy.com discussion forum and we will help you.
I remember the first trick that I taught my dog was, “Shake a paw.” Although very basic in nature, it was
the coolest thing to me. And this developed into all sorts of tricks like “Jumping into my arms” and “Clean
up your toys.”
Also, some tricks will require your dog to be able to sit or lie down. For example, your dog must first be
able to lie down before you can train him to, “Roll over.”
First, be sure to have some highly desirable food or treats that your dog really loves. It must be something
that excites your dog to the point where he would do anything to get it. It can be anything he loves—chick-
en, sausages, beef, liver, etc.
Requirements:
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to teach your dog to “Spin” in a circle numerous times.
Set-Up:
Find a quiet and non-distracting environment so that your dog can focus entirely on you.
Exercise:
1. Begin this exercise by holding a treat in front of your dog’s nose. But do not let your dog eat the treat
until he completes the criteria described below.
2. Next, move your treat in a semicircle, going to the right. If you can imagine a circle around your dog, you
will want to move your treat starting from your dog’s nose to your dog’s tail or rear end.
This way, your dog will be doing a half circle while following the lure. As soon as your dog completes the
half circle, immediately let go of the treat. This will reinforce your dog in this behavior.
3. As your dog becomes comfortable following the lure in this manner, you can then move the lure in a
complete circle. If you do this correctly, your dog should then do a complete circle. Again, immediately
let go of your treat once your dog turns around.
4. Practice the previous two exercises until your dog fully masters them and can do them effortlessly. The
next step is a little more challenging: it requires that you lure your dog in two or more circles before you
release the treat.
First, begin by training your dog to complete one circle. Then, once your dog can do it easily, move your
lure in a circle twice in a row before releasing the treat. You can incrementally make it more challenging
until your dog is doing four or five turns before you release the treat.
Step-1 Step-2
Step-3 Step-4
Step-5
5. If you want to associate a command to the behavior of spinning, then you will need to say your com
mand, “Spin” one second before you lure your dog into the position.
Please be patient—it may require a week or two before your dog will respond to the “Spin” command with-
out having to lure him.
Requirements:
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to teach your dog to “Roll over” numerous times.
Set-Up:
It would be ideal if you could train on a soft surface like carpet or a grass area, as a hard floor might not be
comfortable for your dog’s back.
Exercise:
1. Begin this exercise by placing your dog in a down position. Hold a treat in front of your dog’s nose, but
do not let him eat it until he completes the criteria described below.
2. Next, move your lure to your right and towards your dog’s shoulder so that your dog has to look side
ways to follow the treat. Your dog should remain in a down position for this.
Once your dog has followed the lure and is looking towards his back, immediately let go of the treat. This
is an uncomfortable position for your dog, so you want to build value in being in this position by giving
positive reinforcements.
3. As your dog becomes comfortable following the lure in this manner, you can then move the lure further
until your dog drops onto his side. Immediately let go of your treat once your dog is on his side.
4. The biggest challenge in teaching the roll over is to get your dog to roll onto his back. Some dogs really
don’t like the feeling of rolling on their back, so you will need to make sure that you give your positive
reinforcement with lots of praise as soon as your dog completes his first roll over.
An easy way to get your dog to “Roll over” is to do the exercise as described above, but with momentum.
What I mean by this is if you move your lure quickly towards your dog’s shoulder, and if he follows it with
enough momentum, he will have no choice but to roll over.
Step-1 Step-2
Step-3 Step-4
Step-5
5. If you want to associate a command to the behavior of rolling over, then you will need to say your com
mand, “Roll over” one second before you lure your dog.
Tip:
In order for the command to be properly conditioned, you must have precise timing. This means that each
step must take place within one second of the previous one.
Requirements:
Description:
The purpose of this exercise is to teach your dog to “Figure eight” in and out of your legs.
Set-Up:
Find a location with a non-slippery surface like carpet, grass or asphalt. Training your dog on a hardwood
or ceramic floor might be slippery for your dog.
Exercise:
1. Begin this exercise by placing a treat in both of your hands. Hold your right hand in front of your
dog’s nose, but do not let him eat it until he completes the criteria described below.
Place your left hand behind you and between your legs. Lure your dog towards the middle of your legs and
wiggle your left hand until your dog notices that you have a treat in it. Once he sniffs your left hand, im-
mediately let go of the treat and let him eat it (see pictures).
The goal of this exercise is to get your dog to follow the lure in your right hand, and to notice that there is
food in your left hand.
2. Next, you will want to do the same exercise as above, but this time once your dog has noticed the treat
in your left hand, you will want to move your hand around your leg. As soon as your dog goes around
your leg, immediately let go of the treat (see picture).
3. The final step of this exercise is to continue the lure to the other side. You would begin the same way as
above, but after your dog is lured around your leg, you would continue luring him with your right hand
around your other leg. This will result in your dog doing a complete figure eight in and out of your legs.
4. Associating a command to this behavior is a little challenging because most dogs rely heavily on visual
signals to do this trick. What I recommend instead is that you teach your dog to follow hand signals as
opposed to a verbal command.
Step-1 Step-2
Step-3 Step-4
Step-5 Step-6
This can be accomplished by luring your dog two or three times in a row, then repeating the action without
food in your hand. This way, your dog won’t know whether there’s food in your hand or not.
And once your dog has completed the “figure eight” behavior, you grab a treat from your pocket and give
it to him.
Thank you!
I want to personally thank you for downloading and reading my eBook. It has been a wonderful experience
writing it and I am grateful for the opportunity to help. If this eBook has helped you in any way, shape or
form, I would love to hear from you or to read about your successes.
Best wishes,
Jean Cote