Development formulation

Calendula Depilatory Cream C1921

This depilatory cream is based on Crodafos CES, a finely-balanced complex blend of fatty
alcohol and phosphate esters, which was originally developed as an emulsifying and
conditioning wax for high pH hair relaxer systems. Emulsions based on Crodafos CES exhibit
thixotropy (shear thinning), promoting the combined release of oil and water from the system.
Crodafos CES is particularly useful for depilatory products where rapid penetration of the
hydroxide ion results in shorter contact times and significantly lower skin irritation potential. The
inclusion of Calendula oil, an extract of Marigold flowers, soothes dry skin whilst generating an
attractive marketing claim.
% by wt

CRODAFOS CES (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate Croda 8.0

(and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate)
CRODACOL CS90 EP (Cetearyl Alcohol) Croda 4.0
Mineral Oil 25cS at 25°C (Paraffinum Liquidum) - 1.0
CALENDULA OIL MONAROM (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Crodarom 0.4
(and) Calendula Officinalis (and) Tocopherol)

Water Deionised (Aqua) - to 100

Urea - 10.0
Cellosize HEC QP-30,000-H (Hydroxyethylcellulose) Amerchol 0.25

Thioglycerol - 5.0
Sodium Hydroxide (50% Solution) - 3.8
Perfume, Preservative, Colour - qs

Method
Hydrate Cellosize in warm water. Add urea and heat to 65-70°C. Heat oil phase to 65-70°C.
Add water phase to oil phase slowly with stirring. Stir to cool. At 40-42°C add thioglycerol.
Slowly add sodium hydroxide solution. Check pH and adjust pH to 11.5-12.0 if required.

The cream should be applied with a spatula to clean dry skin and left for 5-8 minutes (no
longer than 10 minutes). It is removed with a spatula and residues washed off with warm
water.

Non-warranty
This formulation has been subjected to limited stability tests and has been shown to perform well. However formulators adopting this approach should ensure to
their own satisfaction long term stability and functionality. It is good practice to conduct safety tests on all final formulations prior to marketing. Suggested uses should
not be taken as an inducement to infringe any existing patents.
Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole DN14 9AA United Kingdom
Tel +44 (0) 1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 Website www.croda.co.uk

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