The Universal Traveler: Introducing Readers to the Arts, Customs and Manners of Nations Around the Globe

T HE
U N I VER S AL TR AVEL L ER :
D E S I G N E D TO I NTRO D UC E
R E ADER S A T HO M E
TO A N A C Q UA INT A N CE W IT H THE
AR T S , C U S T O MS , AN D M AN N E R S
O F T HE
PR IN CI PAL MODER N N ATI ON S ON THE GL OBE .
E MB RA C IN G A V IE W OF THE IR
PE R ONS —C H A R A CTE R—E M P L O Y M E N TS —A MU S E ME NT S —R EL I GI ON—D R ES S

S
H AB IT A TI ON S —M O D E OF W A R F A R E— FOOD —A RT S —A G R I CU L T U R D
MA N U FA C TU R ES ~S U P E R S TIT I O N S — GO VE R N M E N T
LIT R AT R
E U E , &c &c.
RI V E D F ROM THE RE S E AR CH E S
DE 01?
R ECEN T T R AVE L L E R S
A C KN OW LE D G E D EN T R PR I
E S E, T
I N EL L I G E N E, C AN D FID E LI TY ;
AN D IMB O D YI N G
A G R E A T A M O U N T OF E N TERT A I NI NG AN D I N TR UCTIV INFO R MA TI O

S E N .
BY C H A R LE S A . G OO D R IC H .
HA R TF O R D .
P U B L I S HE D B Y R OBIN S S MITH .
1 8 45 .
E N TE RED ,
A ccording to A c t of C on gr es s , in th e ye ar 1 844 , by
C HA R L E S A . G O O D R I C H,
’
In th e C lerk s O ffi c e of th e D is tr i ct C ou rt of C o nne cticut .
P R E F A C E .
WHE N th e au th o r fi rst an n o un ced h is i ntended e x p ed t on , ii it was

dou btf u l wh eth e r h is p atr ons wou l d b e s uffi c i ent ly n um er ous to m eet th e
ex p en s es i n c i den t to th e u n d e r t aki n g T h at do ub t no l o nger ex ists O n ~
. .
th e con t r ary sc ar c e ly h ad h e r es ted fr o m th e l ab o rs o f h is fi r st to u r

, ,
w h en it was a nn o u n ced th at th e s ub c r i p ti on l i s t wa s fi l l ed a nd th e c o m
s
,
p an y e v e n wa i ti n g t o atten d h im o n t h e seco n d Wi th t h e bes t en deavo rs

.
to s e r ve th em an d to r en de r t h e s eco n d t ou r m o re e n t e r ta i n i ng an d ac
,
c ep tab l e th an th e fi r s t h e h as m ad e eve ry p r ep a r ati on fo r th ei r p l eas ur e

,
an d a cc o mm odati on w i th i n h is p ow e r
,
He h as l oo ked o v er th e wh o l e
.
c o ur se an d s o a m en ded h is p l a n s as to avo i d so m e p asses w h i c h

, ,
i f n ot , ,
danger ous w er e tedi ou s an d un p r o fi tab l e

,
N o t a fe w r o ugh p l aces wi l l
.
be fo un d to b e s m ooth e r ; an d i n a ll r esp ects even th e fasti di o us t rave ll e r

wi l l fi n d i t is b eli eved l ess to c en su r e an d con dem n— p er h ap s m o r e to
, , ,
p rai se and adm i re .
B ut a s i de fr o m fi gur e ; as in th e fi rs t e di ti o n s o in th e secon d th e a u, ,
t h or h as b e e n ob l i ge d to o m i t a n o ti ce a l to geth e r o f a f ew c o un tr i es a n d ,
to ab r i dge s o m ewh at m o r e th an h e wo u l d w i s h h is a cco un t o f o th e rs ,

.
In gen era l h owev e r th e co u ntr i es o f wh i ch n o n o ti ce is taken a r e ei th e r

, , ,
o f m in o r i m p o r tan ce o r th ose o f wh i ch a m p l e p a r ti cu l ar s a e to be
, r
found in wo rks wh i ch h ave b e en w i del y c i r c ul a ted th r o ugh th e co un
,
try . W ith th es e deducti on s th e auth o r fi atter s h i m s e l f th at th e patr ons

,
o f th e w o r k w i l l fee l th at h e h as r edeem ed h is p l edge an d th at i t m ay ,
sti l l wi th s o m e p rop r i e ty b e s ty l ed T he U n iver sa l T r a veller

,
.
A s to th e s ou r ces fr o m wh i ch th em at er i a l s o f th e v o l um e h ave been

der ived th e au th o r wi l l o n l y sa y th at th ey a r e b y fa r too n u m er ous to be
, ,
sp ec i fi ed in th i s p l ace C r edit h as b een gen era l l y given i n th e b ody o f

.
th e wor k to a uth o rs wh ose lab o rs h ave b een u s e d T h r o ugh th e co ur .
t esy o f two o f th e l i terary soc i et i es atta ch ed t o Yal e C o l l ege t h e au th o r ,
h ad access by m eans o f th e i r l ib r ar i es to m any val uab l e wor ks

, ,
4 P R E F AC E .
rar ely to b e m et wi th in th i s country T h ese h e h as used with freedom,

.
an d adop te d th ei r l an guage wh en a da p ted to h is F o r th e a rt i

p urp os e
cl es on t h e U n i ted S tates F ran c e an d I ta l y
, , h e takes p l easu r e in ao
,
knowl edging h is ob l i gati ons to a dis tingu i sh ed l i ter ary fr i en d— R ev .
R oya l R obbi n s
.
In l i
co n c u s on , th e au th o r m ay b e a l l ow ed to say th at w h atever m a
, y
b e th e ex ce l l en c es o r de fe cts o f th e wo r k it h as c os t h i m n o t a fe w
,
h ou r s o f to i l in th e p r ep a r ati o n o f it ; b ut if it s h al l c on tr ib u te to th e in
st r uc ti on an d en ter ta in m en t o f i ts p a tr o n s— i f i t s h a l l m ake th em m ore
c on ten ted wi th th e goo dly l an d in wh i ch th ei r l ot i s c ast— if i t s h a l l ex
c i te i n th e ir b oso m s grati tude t o th at G o d w h o h as di s ti ngui s h ed th em

,
fr om m i l l i on s in o th er c oun t r i es in r esp ect to th e r efo r m ing an d p eace

,
insp i rin g tr u th s o f th e gosp e l — an d fi na l ly if i t s h al l p r omp t th em t o

,
ai d in s en di ng tn at gosp e l to th e m i ll i on s w h o a r e un a cqu ai n ted wi th i t ,
an d wi th th e th ou san d b l ess i n gs wh i ch sp r i n g fro m i t o n e obj ect, a n

-
d
t h at obj ect an i mp or tan t on e w i l l h ave b een attain ed
,
.
C O N T E N T S .
IN TR O D U C TI ON .
P r o po s ed m o de v ell ing e x plai e d ; A dv an tages to b e exp e cted ; D n er s and

of tra n a
s uff eri n gs in c id e tal to t h e c mm o n m o d s av o id e d ; G r e at er a m o un t o f i n o r mati o n

n o e
t o b e o b tain ed ; T h e mi n d en lar ge d an d e n r ich ed ; Th e u s e ful l e ss o n o f co nt ent m e nt

th e r es u l t .
A M E RIC A .
S s cr . 1 . N O RT H A ME R I C A .
1 U NI TE D S T A TE S
T
. .
P e r so na l appe ar an ce t h e i nh a b itan t s ;
of h e ir c h ar a ct er ; S ir it o f en te r r is e ; P e r p p
I
- .
l p
s o n a in d e e n d e n c e A l
tt ac h m e n t t o i b e r t y , c i i an d r e i gi o u s ; n t e igen c e an d e d u vl l ll
c at io n ; B
as i s o f o u r in s t it utio n s ; P ec u ia r fo r m o f e d u c at io n ; e fi n ed l
r a c t i ca R l
h u m am t M l
o r a an d r e igio u s c h ar ac t e r ; l p
h ar a c t e r o f t h e p e o l e o f N e w E n g a n d ; C l
O f th e l
iddl e S ta t e s ; O f t h e S o u th er n ; e s te r n ; E ar y s e tt e r s o f t h e co u n tr y ; W
M l M l —
o d es o f d r e s s ; D w e ll in s in N ew E n g a n d— I n th e W idd e S ta t es S o ut h e r n— e st
A Cl
r c h it ec t u r e ; l A l
e e r at e d b u i d in gs ; l r t ic es o f d ie t— in N e w E ng a n d —
M l id d e
k T v ll C l
er n ;
S t at e s S o u th e r n W e s te r n ; I n to x ic at m g d r in s ;
— — "
a e in g ; S t e am c
I T k v
r a r s ; an a s -
v l G
nn s ; F e s ti a s ; A
a m e s an d l
m us e m e n t s ; h an in g ; May da y ; E e c tio n day
’
l C
- -
F o u r th o f J u y ; H k l
o m m en c e m e n t s ; H
u s in g fr o ic s ; ir s t o f J a n u a r y ; o r s e r ac ing ;
C C k L
-
h ri s t m as ; B ar b ac u e ; Boc p k
fi gh t in g ; L
a s s h un t in g ;-
a n gu age s o e n ; it e r a t u r e ;
v
i m itati e ar t s ; M l M
ec h an ic a a r t s ; A l
a n u fac tu r e s ; E x t e n t o f e d u c at io n ; gr ic u t ur e ;
M ec h an ic a l l M
ab o r ; l l p G v C
e r c a n t i e a n d co m m e r c ia ur s u i ts ; o e rn m e nt ; o ngr es s ;
v pp l p l
E xe c uti e ; J udic iar y ; S u o r t o f r e igio n ; P ri n c i al r e igi o us d en o m inatio n s .
2 I ND I AN T am a s
T ib
. .
P e r so nal pp ear F o o d ; D r e s s ; H a b itatio n s ;

S u er s titio n s ; G o er n p v
I I C
r es ; a an c e ;
m e n t ; S to r y o f an n di an w ar ri o r ; n s tr u m e n t s o f w ar ; u s to m s ; F un e r a r ites ; I n l
dtau s o f t h e R o c y m o u nta in s ; O o n ala s h ka ;
k o o t a S o und N k .
3 C AN AD A
C C T
. .
Po p u l ati on ; h ar ac t er ; o s t u m es ; m e r ic an an d A F r e n ch s e tt e r s l v ll ing ;
R pp er C
; ra e
Foo d ; E mpl o ym en ts ; A
m u s em e nt s ; r e n c h anguage ; F l l
e i gio u s s ta t e ; U an ada.
4 E s aurma ux
. .
Lo c al itie s P er so n s D r es s ; O r n m e n ts ; H us s ; Ar tic l e o f f d ; D r in k s ;
C C
; ; a o e s oo
A m u s e m en t s ; an o e s ; h ar ac t er ; S l edge s ; D gs ; R el igio n ; Marr iage cer e m ny ;
o o
In te r m en t of t h e d e ad .
5 GRE E NL A N D ERS
Ch
. .
S tat ur e an d a pp e ar an ce ar a c t er
H u n ting a n d fi s h in ; i n ter a n d s u m m er r e s W
id en c es ; C an o e s ; Am us e m e nt s ; Rel
; .
igi o u s n o tio n s
;
g
ar ri age ; un er a s M F l .
6 I C E L A ND
pp earan c e ; C h ar ac ter ; C C
. .
P e r s on a l u s to m s o s t um e Lan ; S ch o o s ; Lit e l
Ho u s s ; D iet ; T av e lli g ; W
a ; ; g u age
rat ur e S e as o n s ; Ha k
m a i ng ; in t e r e m o y m en ts ; pl
;
C Cl
e r n -
Fo r m s an d c e r em o n ies of th e h ur ch ; e r gy ; ode o f in t er m e n t ; M ou nt H ecl a ;

G r eat G ey s er .
7 ME XI CO
C
. .
E xt en t P h y s ica l s ituatio n Po p ul atio n ; R ac e s In dian s ; o s tu m e s A c ap ul co ;

F oo d ; r in s ; r a
D k T v e ll i
;
R o ad s ; A m u s em e nts ; E du cat io n ; A g cul tur e ;
; '
;
A gr ic ul
Co ch i n eal ; R el igio n ; B rie f n o tic e o f G uatemalz
ng ;
t ur a lp
r o d u c ti o n s ;
8 . W a s r I ND I E S .
Inh ab itants ; Langua e ; P e culiar it ie s of t h e p e n le of H av an a . m anner of living ;

F un er a l c er e mon ies ; u catio n ; Co fi e e ; S
‘
ugar ; r ea d fr uit tr ee .
S E OT 11 . . SOU T H AME R I C A .
l C wm o an
Cm T
. .
Histo r ical and st at s ti cal acc o un t

io u ; C ar ac cas ; rad es eo p l e ; F e stivals ;
Ch ; ana
Am u s e i n ts R e ligi l
oc o at e tr ee C o w tr e e ; B H
ng ; o go ta ;
n ; ; ers ; o uses ;
P r od uc fi us .
6 CONT E TSN .
2 B RAZI L
Cl C
. .
M p ec t th e co untr y ;
of a s s es o f in h a b ita n ts ; h ar ac ter ; C o s tum e ; ab its and H
M an n e r s R
o y a et i u e tt e ; l
o o d ; P o u ati o n ; q r ts ; m F
u s e m e n ts ; O x c h as e l A A H
p
I
o r s es ;
l
G o d an d d iam o n d s ; iam o n d D
a s h i n g; n i an tr ib e s ;
d W
u ay c ur u s ; P ur i e s ; Bo t uc u G
doe s ; e igio n R l
U
.
3 P ER
Cl C C
. .
as s es o f inh ab itan t s ; r eo e s ; L a di e s l of P er u ; Me s tiz o el l

h o o s ; S an iar ds ; p
N egr o es ; M l u atto e s ; P e r u ian In d i an s ; v Dr e ss ; H o u s es ; A
;
l
gr ic u tu r e ; o m m er c e
; C
A m us em en ts .
4 BoL I V i A .
Po p ul ation ; M ines o f P oto s i ; Q u an tity of si lv er ; P r oc e s s o f se pa rating s ilv er fr o m

th e o r e.
5 . B uE N o s A YRE S .
L e ngth an d b r eadth o f th e co u ntr y p o s itio n an d m ann er o f th e S p ish

P er s o n s d is
inh ab i ta nt s ; C er e m o n ie s ; D r es s ; A m u s em e t s B ull fi gh ts ; M d e s o f t r v e lli ng;
,
n -
o a
an
p
Pam as ; I ndian s ; G a uc h o s ; A n im a l s o n th e Pam pa s ; I nt e r m en t o f th e d ead .
6
. C H IL E .
Po p ul atio n and e x t en t o f ; I nh ab itant s ; P eas a nts ; S an iar d s ; V al pa

th e c o u n tr y p
r ai s o B u ll fi gh ts ; M h i ean din n er ;C l
h i ean d an c e ; S an t iago ; imat e ; C l Cl
T ;
C
-
ann e r s ;
owns ; Mod e of tr a v ll
e i ng ; Pa s s age o f t h e r e at or di e r a ; A r a u ca n ia n s G ll .
7 P A TA GONI A
C
. .
I nh ab itan ts ; D r es s ; S tatur e ; a p tain M o r r e ll s ac count o f th em ’

.
EU R OPE .
I E N GL A N D
C
. .
Ap ea r an c e o f th e E n g is h ; h ar ac ter ; l
e n e r o s ity ; I n d u s tr y ; o e o f k now e dge ; G L v l
Ti ppping ; D l
r e s s ; E n g is h d i nn e r ; P ub i c b ui d i n gs ; ou s e s ; S h o s ; o ttage s ; D i l l H p C
v e s io n s ; H or s e -r ac in g ; N e w m ar e t ; o x ing ; am b i ng ; k B o ad s ; gr i G l T v ll R A
W
r r a e i ng ;
c u l tu r e ; M a n u fact u r es ; e igio n ; R l
o e r n m en t ; a es G v l .
2 S C OTL A N D
Ch
. .
P er s o n al a pp e a r an ce ; ar a ct er ; Dr am s ; T e dd y ; D r e s s o f th e L w l der s ; D r es s o an
of th e H igh lan d er s ; F oo d ; S ty l e o f B uil d i n gs ; A dv e t ur e f tr v ell e r ; Language ;
n o a a
Mu s ic ; A n ec d o t e s ; G r etn a G r e en .
3 I RE L AN D
Ch
. .
ar ac te r o f th e I r is h ; P o v er ty ; Ho s p ital ity ; P easan tr y ; S up er s titi n o I r is h b ulls ;

R e l igio us e s ta b l is h m en ts ; Lit e r atu r e ; A r t s ; M n u f t ur es ; I r h w k e a ac is a .
4 FRA NC E
L
. .
P er s o n al pp e ar
th e r en c h ; an c e o f F ; E d uc at io n ; r ite r s W
L C
a a ngu age
l l
P u b ic b u i d i n gs ; o u r e ; E x ch an ge ; v D r es s a n d t as t e ; o o e r y ; P a i s i an d i n n er ;
r k
A m u s e m en t s ; S o c i e ty ; S o c ia c o n d i t io n l of W o m en ; o er n m e n t ; G v
e i gi o n R l .
5 S P AI N
Cl Ch C
. .
as s es o f in h ab itan ts ; ar a c t e rN o b l e s an d pl eb eian s ; D r e s s ;
; o ok er y ; R oads ;
L an gu age ; A m u s e m en ts ; B ull fi gh ts ; Ed uc atio n ; Lib er al ar t s
-
.
6 PORT U G AL
C C
. .
P er s o na a ear an ce ; l pph ar a ct er ; o s tu m e of th e l ow e r o r d er s ; I nt e r n a l appear

anc e o f th e h o us e s ; Lan gu age ; P e c u iar it ies ; l R el igio n .
7 IT . A LY .
Inter e s ting as s o c iatio n s ; D r e s s o f th e I t l i n ; L angua e ; F in"e ar ts ; P ub l ic b u il d

R ema n s o f a c ient m on um en ts o f r t ; Natio l c h a cter Mo r l s ;b Me anaucfaecs
a a s g
in gs ;
R e ligi n T h e P o p e ; C o ll ege o f C di n l s ; O th er cl er gy ; Re m ar ka l pl
i n a na ra a
t ur e s o ar a .
8 GRE E CE
Ch
. .
Mod er n C r e k ar ac ter D r es s ; D i t ; D an cin M us ic R eligio n ; Rit es o f th e

Ch ;
a z
e s ; ; e
G r eek u rc h ; S u p er s tit io n s ; M rr i ge c er e m o y ;
a a n un e ral s .
9 E URO PE AN TU R KE Y
T
k s ; Ch ar ac t er ; H r e s n n e r s a d c u s to m s ; H u s e s ; T r av
. .
P er s on s o f th e m M
e m e ts ; L w s ; P u i h m e t s ; L
ur a a n o
elli ng ; A m u a gu e ; P l ygam y ; M arr i age ; R e li g o

a n s n n c
s n a
gion ; F as t s ; F e ti val s ; Pi lg im s ; F un r l c er e m e s
s r e a on i
10 S WITZERL A ND .
T
.
P er son a l app ear an c e ; N ati on a l ch ar acter ; D r es s ; F o o d ; v ll

ra e i ng ; Edu cation .
CO N TEN TS . 7
H U N G ARIA N S T A TE S
11 . .
P er sons ; C o stum es ; P easan ts ; H b it t io n s ; La nguage s ; D iet ; a a G ip si e s .
A U S TRI A B OHEM I A & c

12 .
, , .
P o litical
d ivis io n s ; P o p u l atio n ; A u s tr ian c h ar a ct e r ; A u s tr ian w o m en ; Vienna ;
Kingdo m o f Bo h e m ia, & c ; . Ty ro l .
13 G E RM A NY
T
. .
P o litic al d i is io n s ; v
an o er ian s ; S a x o n s ; Ba ar ia n s ; G er m an h o u s e s ;
H v t v l
I
i es ;
Man n er s an d c u s to m s ; A m us e m en t s ; n u is iti e n e s s ; us ic ; e an s o f e d u cat i o n q v M M
Li b r ar ie s ; er m an s t u d en ts ; o d e o f tr a e i ng
G M v ll .
14 . N E THE RL A N D S .
H o lland ; B elgiu m A pp ear an ce o f th e D u tc h D u tc h ladie s M an n er s an d c ustom s ;

h a r c t e r o f t h e B lg
a s ; H o us e i H o ll n d ; D ie t ; D iv er s i n s
e i an n a o .
1 5 D E N M A RK
P er s o n l p p ear an c e ; C las s e s o f i nh b it n t s ; H o us es ; Fo o d ; T r v e lli ng ; Div er
. .
a a a a a
s io n s ; G v er n m e n t ; R eh gio
.
o n .
1 6 N ORW AY
P er s o s ; C h ar ac t e r ; D r e s ; D ie t ; B uil d in g ; M u f t u e s ; T v ell i g ; A m u s e
. .
m e n t ; R e ligi
n s s an ac r ra n
; F u e r l c e r e m n ie ; M r e ; S up t i ti t io n d tr adi
tio n s ; N ip e n ; M o u n t in d em o n ; S t r y o f P t r t h e W o o d m
s on n a s o s a r i ag er s on no ns a
a ; A w e ddin g p ar ty o e e an .
17 S WE D E N
C
. .
In h ab itan t s ; N atio n al c h a r ac t e r ; o s tum e ; F oo d H ab itatio n s ; R o ad s ; Tr av e l

;
ling ; E d u c at i o n ; D v er
i s io n s ; Ag r ic u l tu r e ; M a nu fa c t ur e s ; W e d di n g c er em o n e s i .
1 8 L A P L A ND . .
P e r s on al a pp ear an ce ; D r ess O f th e La pp s ; H u ts ; I n l an d La pp s ; Mar itim e Lapps ;

Di et ; S u p e r s ti ti o n s ; C o ur ts h i pa nd m ar r i ag e ; D is e as e s ; S e p ul c h r al r ite s .
19 FI N L A N D
C
. .
G en eral d e s c r ip t io n ; o s t um e H D r es s ; Ho t b ath s ; P eas an tr y ; H unting ;

T ; o us e s ;
ra v l
el i n g ; M
atr i m o n i a lc o n n ex io n .
20 R U S S IA
D r e s s f th e l adie s ; C o s s ac ks ;
. .
Var iety o f r ac e s P er so n a l pp e ce ; D e s ;
C R ; R em
; a ar a n r s o
h ara c t e r th e of i k b l f th im it t i n F r t h i c ur io s ity ;
v t ; M e l ; C k e ; C l gy ; M e r c h nt ; P as an t s ;
us s an s ar a e or eir a o o e r
n e r s an d c u s to m s ; S
l n av ig tio n ; T r av ell g ; é t h s ; A m u s em e nts ; P un is h m ents ;
er an s a s oo r er a s e
P r o d u c ti o n s ; I n te r n a a in a
W eddi ngs .
A S IA .
I . A S I A TIC TR I BE S .
1 . CiR C A s s rA N s .
P er s on al app ear ance ; D r es s ; D r es s of th e fe m a es ; l H o us e s ; B ur ia l o f th eir dead .
2 G E OR G I AN S
Cl
. .
P er s o n s ; D r es s ; P un is h m en ts ; e r gy , &c .
3 T A R TA R s
. .
L o cali ties ; P h ys ic a l an d m or a l c h ar ac t e r ; W eal th ; D r es s ; D iet ; D we ll ings

Hor s em an sh ip .
4 C A LMU CK S
T d ; Cl
. .
P er so na l app ear ance ; e n ts ; Fo o as s e s or r an ks ; W ar d r es s ; Marr iages .
5 K A M S C HA TKA
C
. .
A pp e ar an c e ; o s t um e ; M a nn e r o f l iv i ng ; F ood ,
&c .
ARA B I A
Cl
.
ass es o f A r ab s ; B e do u in s ; Ph s ical a pp ear an c e ; E xt er i r d e m ean o r ; Ho s p ital

or m
C o ur te s y
of
; S p i r it of re
v er n m e nt ; Mo de o f tr av ll
v e nge ; g r es s ; D e t ; P l c e s f a m u s e m ent ; H ab ita tio n s
C r avans
i a o
o
go e i ng ; a .
3 P E R s rA
Ci
. .
P er son s ; o s tu m e ;Ho us e s ; F oo d ; H b its ; F e m l e e d u c at io n ; Su pe r s titio ns

H ors e raci g ; T rav el ling ; C o ur t s h ip W I
a a
;
gtfiggié‘g
si i l un t ng ; n a nd e d di ngs ; n t er m en t
-
(
T EN T S
'
O A O
' ta
8 CO N .
4 CE IN A
pp ear an ce N atu r al d is p o s ition s C h ar acter ; Co ndi tio n o f femal es ;
. .
P h y s ica l a
Dr e s s ; Mod e o f l iv ing am o n g th e lo w er o r de r s ; Am o ng th e w ealth y ; E ntertainm ents ;
G am ing law s P u is h m e nts Pr i on s ; I n s ; Tr avelling ; A r chi tect ur e ; Manufac tur es ;
n s n
P or c e lain ; S ilk ; P r in ti ng ; Mar r iage ; F u n e ra l r it es .
5 J . AP A N .
S itu atio n a nd ex t en t ; P er s o na a l pp e D r e s s ; H o u s e s ; D ie t A '
ltur e ;
R ;
ar an c e cu
'
A r ts an d S c ien c e s ; P ub ic o ad s ; l R el igi o us s e cts ; S up er s t itio n s ; Ce l e r atio n of

m ar r iage Fun er a c er e mo n i es l
B URM A N
.
6 E MP IRE
C
. .
S it u ation ; P h y s iogn o m y ; o st um e H o u s e s ; F ur nitur e ; Managem en t o f h ou s e

l
h o d afi ai r s ;
’
M m oni al
atr i c er em o ni e s ;
;
C h ar ac teri s tic s ; T r av elling ; Fun eral so lemn l
t ie s .
7 N EW H OLL A N D
Ch C
. .
S itu at io n an d ex te n t ; A b o r igin e s ; R el igio us o p inion s ; ar ac ter is ti c s ; an oe s ;

G o v er n m e nt .
8 N . EW ZE A L A N D .
S it u atio n an d F ir s t i t
e xt e n t w it h E u r o e an s ; P e r s o n al a p pp
Dr s ; F d ; C ann b l i m ; H b tatio R
; n er co u r s e ear an c e ;
n s ; T atto o m g ; l
e igi on ; P r i es t s ; S o ur c es o f
w eal th ; F un er al O b s e qui e s ; B attl es ; C
es oo i a s a i
an o e s ; W ar i n s t r um e n ts ; m us em ents A .
A F RI C A .
I . B ARB ARY S TA TE S .
Moo r ish D r e s s ; M ar r iages ; M od e o f sa l u t atio n ; H un ting ; F un er al r ites .
2 . N UB I A .
S itu atio n ; I nh ab itan t s ; D r es s ; H ab itatio ns D iet .
3 . A B Y S S IN IA .
S it uation ; P o p ulatio n ; M ar r ia ge ; Su p e r s titions ; F u ner al c er em on ies ; P eculiar

c u s to m s .
4 C A FF R A R I A
C
. .
B o u n da r i e s ; In h ab itan ts ; o s tum e ; Ma nn er of l ife ; D iet ; H o u s es ; Kr aa ls or vile

Iage s ; T h e A m ax o r t r ib e
U
.
5 S O THE RN A F RI C A
C T Ch
. .
S itu at io n a n d ex t e n t ; a e own ; p D ut c h b o or s ; Ho tten to ts ; Dr es s ; ar ac ter ;

B
T h e o sj e s m an s ; Th e C o r an n as ; T h e N am a q uas .
6 . N I GR I TI A OR C E NTR A L ~
A FRJ CA .
S it u atio n an d ex t en t ; o r n o u ; P o ul atio n B of B o r n o u ; M an n er o f l iving ; G am e ;

C h i e f to w n s ; D
is tr ic t s o f B egh ar m i, an da ra, an d L o ggun ; T h e F e llatah s ; S a ccatoo ;
Tim b uc too .
7 . W E S TERN A F RI CA .
S itu atio n an d ex t e nt ; D ah oni ey ; A s h an tee ; G en er al r e mar ks on th e so cia co ndi l

t io n o f th e Afr icans .
IN T R OD U CT I ON .
IT is t h e p r ivil e ge o f b ut fe w, t o vi s it a n d o b s er v e di s t an t
c oun tr i es a n d di ff e r e n t n a ti o n s A lth o u gh tr a v e l li n g h a s g r e a t
.
i n c r e a s e d o f l a t y ear s a n d a s fa ciliti es a r e m u ltipli e d , i s

i
y e , ,
lik e ly to i n c r e a s e s till m o r e , y e t it is c hi efly c o n fi n e d t o c er

t a i n cl as s e s , b y n o m e a n s n um e r i c a lly l a r ge T h e m aj o r ity
.
a r e n e c e ss a r ily c u t o ff fr o m thi s S p e ci es o f a m u s e m e n t a n d
i n fo r m a ti o n T h e y h a v e n e ith e r th e r e q u i s it e l e i s ur e n o r s u f
.
,
fi c ie n t w e a lth M a n y a l s o , a r e u nfi tte d fo r tr a v e lli n g , by r e a

.
,
s o n o f t h e i r h abits a n d di s p o s iti o n s .N e w c ou n tr i e s a n d n e w
,
o bj e ct s , w o u ld n e ith e r pl e a s e n o r p r o fit th em . A n d n o t a fe w
w h o d o t r a v e l , a r e d i s q u a lifi e d fo r i m p r o v e m e n t, fr o m th e
w a n t o f th a t p e c u li a r t a ct— th a t p o w e r o f o b s e r v a ti o n a n d
di s c r i m i n a ti o n , w hic h i s s o e s s en ti a l to a j u s t e s ti m a te o f m e n
and m a n n er s .
B u t fo r c h a p r iv a ti o n i s th e r e n o i n d em n ity ? M us t th ey,
su ,
wh o c a nn o t lit e r a lly vi s it fo r e ig n c o u n tr i e s , a n d c a nn o t vie w

w ith th e i r o w n ey e s th e v a r i e ti s o f h u
e m a n ch a r a ct e r a n d c u s ~
to m s a lw a y s r em ai n in i gn o r a n c e ? H a ppily , thi s i s n o t th e
,
s e v er e c o n d iti o n o f t h e i r b e i n g It is n o t n e c e s s a r y t o fo r e g o
.
th e pl e as ur e a n d a dv a n t a g e s o f a v a r i e d a n d e xt e n s iv e k n o w
le d g e o f th e w o r l d T h e y m a y e nj o y tr a v elli n g, a s w ell a s
.
o th er s T h e y m ay e nj o y it a t h om e, a n d in e v er y s e as o n o f
.
t h e y e a r , e v e n a m i ds t t h e fr o s ts a n d c o n fi n e m en t o f w i n ter .
Th e y m ay tr a v el , a n d y e t n e v er q u it th e i r fi r es i d es o r p o r
t ic o es .
If it be
c e s s a r y to e xpl a i n to o ur r e a d e r s h o w thi s c a n b e
ne
d o n e , w e will b e gi n by s u pp o s i n g th a t th e l o n g e v e n i n gs o f o ur
wi n ter s a r e a rr iv e d — t h e s to r m r a ge s a b r o a d th e wi n d s h o w l
-
ar o u n d y o ur dw e lli n g ; b ut
y o u a r e q u i e tly s e a t e d by y o ur c o m
fo r tab le fi r e a n d y o u w i s h s o m e a m u s i n g a n d y et p r o fit a b l e
, ,
e m pl o y m e n t i n w hic h to p ass a w ay th e h o ur s
, W e p r o p os e
.
l0 I NTR ODUCTI ON .
t o y o u, th en , to m a k e a t r a v e lli n g e xc u r s i o n —a tarr y
s or t of
a t h o m e j o ur n ey , o r v o y a g e ar o u n d th e gl o b e
-
W e will e n
.
d e a v o r , by givi n g a c o n d en s e d , y e t s uffi ci e n tly e xt en s iv e

a cc o un t o f th e w o r ld , i n th e m a n n e r s c u s t o m s r it es l a w s
, , , ,
g o v e r n m e n t s , a n d o th er p a r tic u l a r s r e s p e cti n g its i n h a bit a n t s ,

t o fu r n i s h th e m e a n s o f y o u r m a ki n gs uc h a n e xc u r s i o n We .
w ill h o ld u p a pictur e by which in t h e c o m fo r t a n d s e c ur ity o f

,
y o ur h o m es , y o u m a y s e e w h a t e v e r i s w o r thy o f i ns p e cti on ,
j u s t a s th e liter a l tr a v e ll er w o uld s e e it, in th e v ar i ou s s t a t es
a n d ki n gd o m s o f whic h th e gl o b e is c o n s titu te d .
T o th o s e , h o w e v e r , wh o ar e r e l u ct a n t t o a tte m p t s u c h a
to u r , we w o ul d s u gge s t p ar tic u l a r c o n s id er a ti o n s .
1 You will a void th e d a n g er s a n d s uf er i n g s , w hic h att e n d

.
th o s e w h o go ab r o a d a m o n g di ffe r en t n a ti o n s N o m a n w h o .
,
l e av e s h is h o m e fo r a di s t an t l a n d , k n o ws wh a t m a y b e fa ll h i m
i n h is c o u r s e ; o r r a th er , e v e r y s u c h a o n e k n o w s , th a t h e ex
p o s e s hi m s el f to n um e r o u s p e r il s a n d di ffi c u l ti es He c a n .
s c ar c e ly h o p e t o es c a p e c a s u a l t i e s a n d d i s a s t er s a n d it i s a
c h a n c e i f h i s li fe is n o t th e fo r fe itu r e o f h is c u r i o s ity W h a t .
h as b e e n th e fa t e o f t r a v e ll er s , e s p e ci a lly th e m o r e a dv e n tu r o us
o f th e m 2
'
. Witn e s s L e dy ar d, P a r k , C lap p e r to n L a n d er , a n d ,
h un d r e d s o f o th er s B ut by th e m o d e o f tr a v ell i n g h er e p r o
.
p o s e d , y o u will r u n n o s u ch h a z a r d s as a tte n d e d th es e m e n ,
'
a n d by whic h th e y l o s t th e i r liv e s . Y o u w ill e s c a pe p e r il s by

l and a n d p er il s by s ea Y o u wi ll b e ~ex p o s e d t o n o d a n ger s
.
fr o m pi r a t e s wh o i n fe s t th e s e a s , o r fr o m r o bb er s o r a s s a s s i n s ,
wh o w ayl ay th e p as s i n g l a n d t r a v e ll er
-
Y o u m ay vi s it th e
.
m o s t s a v a ge tr ib e s , i n p er fe ct s a fe ty — I n d i a n s A l g e r i n es , N e w
,
Ze a l a n d e r s , b a r b ar i a n s c a n n ib a l s Y o u will fe a r n e ith er th e
,
.
s c o r c hi n g h e a t s o f a n A fr ic an d es er t, n or th e r ig o r s o f a S ib e
r i a n w i n te r . Y o u m ay t r a ve l th o u s a n d s o f m il e s , with s c a r c e
’
ly th e s e n s e o f w ear i n e s s . Y o u m ay p en e t r a t e th e m o s t d i s
t a n t c o u n tr i e s , a n d r e m a in in p er fe ct q u i e t Y o u m a y e nj o y,
'
in a s e n s e , all th e a m us e m en t s o f th e v o y a g er o r tr a v e ll er ,
a n d s u ffer n o n e o f h i s i n c o n v e n i e n c es .
2 You w i ll b e a bl e to a c qu i r e a gr ea t er a m o un t of i nfor m a
'
t i o n, a n d th a t o f a m o r e a cc u r a t e ki n d , in a s i n gl e m o n th , th a n
by tr a v e lli n g fo r y e ar s , in th e c o m m o n a n d liter a l m o d e T hi s .
w ill b e th e c a s e , b e c au s e y o u w ill h a v e p a s s e d th r o u gh m o r e
c o un tr i es , a n d h a ve o b s e r v e d m o r e o f m e n a n d m a n ners , th a n
if y o u h a d em pl o y e d th e ti m e in p er s o n al e x a m in a ti o n And .
IN TR ODUCT I ON . 11
as to a cc ur a cy o f i n fo r m a ti o n — m i n u t e a n d full a c q u a i n t a n c e
with th e o bj e c ts m e t w ith in tr a v e lli n g, thi s m ay b e e xp e ct ed
fr o m th e m eth o d h er e p r o p o s e d , w h en it c o ul d n o t b e a tt a in e d
in a ny o th er w ay .P e r h a p s y o u a r e n o t fitte d t o m ake s u c h
n ic e o b s er v a ti o n s o n m e n a n d m a n n e rs , a s a r e fo u n d i n m a n y
b o o k s o f tr a v el P e r h a p s y o u a r e n o t a c q u a i n te d w ith th e
.
di ffe r en t l a n gu a ge s th a t ar e n e c es s a r y t o b e un d er s to o d, i n
o r d er to th e a c q u i s iti o n o f c o r r e ct k n o w l e d g e Y o u m ay n o t
.
b e a bl e t o p hil o s o p hi z e, o r d e du c e i n fer e n c e s , o r m a k e c o m
p ar i s o n s , a s i s d es i r abl e in o r d e r to l e a r n a ll th a t m igh t b e
l e ar n e d by tr a v e lli n g F o r th es e a n d o th e r r e as o n s , thi s s o rt
.
o f t a r r y a t h o m e e xc u r s i o n m a y fii r n i s h y o u n o t o n ly with
- -
m o r e, b u t b ett er i n fo r m a ti o n , r es p e c ti n g di ffe r e n t c o u n tr i e s ,
th a n i f y o u w er e a ct u a lly t o s p e n d th e s a m e ti m e in p er s o n a l
i n s p e c ti o n o f th e m .
3 T h e m od e of tr a v elli n g h er e r ecom m en d ed, w ill s er ve to

.
en la r g e a n d en r i ch t h e m i n d .N o thi n g is b e tt e r c alc ul a te d to
p r o d u c e thi s e ffe c g th a n j us t d eli n e a ti o n s o f h u m a n n a tur e— o f
'
h u m a n li fe , a n d m an n e r s a n d ch a r a ct er — o f m a n in all th e va
r i et ie s o f h i s c o n diti o n a s a n i n h a bit a n t o f th e e a r th It ex
, .
p an d s o u r vi e ws a n d fur n i s h e s th e m i n d with i nn u m e r abl e

,
t o pic s o f th o ught a n d ill us t r a ti o n K n o wl e dge g e n e r a ll y is th e

.
b t ki d
e s n o f a c q i iti
u s o n — b e tte r th a n s ilv e r o r g o ld , o r a n y o f
th e m ea n s o f s e n s u a l e nj o y m e n t It w ill b e a s o ur c e o f h ap
.
p in es s , a s y o u w ill b e a bl e t o enj o y y o u r s e lv e s i n d e p e n d e n tly

o f o th e r s . K n o wl e dg e c a n n o t b e t a k e n a w a y , a s p r o p e r ty
a n d o th e r w o r ldly a c q ui s iti o n s m a
y be It i s o ur o wn p r er o g
.
a ti v e a n d th e di s ti n cti o n o f o u r i n t e ll e ctu a l n a t ur e an d c a
, , n
b e a nn ihil a t e d o n ly w ith th e m i n d , i n w hic h it r e s id e s B e~
.
s id e s , it w ill giv e
y o u i n fl u e n c e a n d r e p u t a ti o n — e xt en d t h e
s ph e r e o f y o u r e x er ti o n s a n d i n c r e as e t h e p o w er o f d o in g
,
go o d .
I m p a r ti n g w e igh t to ch ar a ct e r , it w ill e n ti tl e y o u t o
c o n s id er a ti o n in all r e s p ect a bl e s o ci e ty T h e b r a n c h o r ki n d
.
o f k n o wl e dg e m o r e es p e ci a lly r e c o m m en d e d h e r e
,
is e q u al in
v a lu e to th a t o f a ny o th er , r eli gi o n e xc e pte d I n d e e d it m a y
.
,
le a d y o u to t r u e r e li gi o us k n o w l e dg e .I f th e r e i s a n y ki n d o f
s e c u l a r i n fo r m a ti o n which h a s a di r e ct m o r a l u s e a n
d ten d en
c y it m u s t b e thi s
, .
T h r o ugh s u c h a m o d e o f t r a v elli n g, y o u
will b e c o m e a c q u a i n te d with th e h um an ch ar a ct e r ; y o u wi ll
s e e it a s m o difi e d by r e ligi o n o r i ts o pp o s it
e Y o u w ill o f
.
c ours e b e abl e to j udg e o f th e v a l ue o f

th e B ibl e a n d C h r i s ti a n
12 IN TR O UCT I ON D .
in s ti t uti o n s , as y o u w illp e r c e iv e th ei r i nfl ue n c e up o n th e s ta te
o f s o ci e ty . Y o u w ill fi n d th e i r i n fl u en c e a l w a ys a n d u n i fo r m
ly p r o p iti o us . W h e r e th e y ar e n o t k n o w n , s o ci e ty will b e s een
to b e e m i n en tly i n a vici o u s u n h a ppy , a n d d e g r a de d s t a t e
, .
Y o u will b e a bl e t o j udg e o f th e v a l u e of th e B ibl e a n d o f Ch r is

ti a n i n s tit u ti o n s , e s p e ci a lly in th e i r i nfl u e n c e o n wom a n h o w -
th e y r a i s e h e r t o h e r p r o p e r r a n k in t h e d o m es ti c s t a t e — ex
p a n d h e r m i n d a n d r e fi ne h e r ch a r a ct e r T h e fa l s e r e ligi o us .
a n d s u p e r s titi o n s o n t h e e a r th will b e s e e n i n a ll th e i r p o ll u
,
ti n g , d e gr a di n g , a n d di s tr es s i n g i nfl ue n c e o n th e s ex T h us , .
”
th e c o m p a r i s o n o f th e e fl e c t s o f Ch r i s ti a nity a n d th o s e fa l s e ,
r e li gi o n s , whic h k n o wl e d g e in t h i s w a y a cqu i r e d will e n abl e ,.
y o u t o m a k e , c a n n o t b ut s h o w y o u th e g e n i u s o f th a t r e ligi o n ,
a n d its i n fi n ite s u p er i o r ity to e v er y o th er .
4 Yo u w i l l l ea r n fr om o u r p r op o s ed m od e of tr a velli n g , th e
.
us ef ul l es s o n of co n t en tm en t It will m a k e y o u m o r e s a t i s fi e d
.
th e v r with y o u o
a n e r w n u n r —
c o t y i ts s t a t e o f s o c i e ty — m o r a l s ,
r eli gi o n , e d u c a ti o n , g o v e r n m e n t a n d p r ivil e g e s — m o s t o f th o s e
,
ci r c u m s t a n c e s i n whic h it d i ffer s fr o m o th er c o un t r i e s a n d ,
i n d e e d all t h e ci r c u m s t a n c e s t h a t c o n tr ib u t e to n a ti o n a l h a p
p in es s. It m a y b e h o p e d t o
,
o ,
th a t y o u r gr a tit u d e t o G o d will
b e e xcit e d in vi e w o f th e d i s t i n gui s h e d m er ci e s y o u e nj o y i n ,
c o m m o n with y o u r c o u nt r y m en I t m us t b e fe lt to b e a n o c .
c as i o n o f th e m o s t s i n c e r e gr a tit ud e th a t h e h a s pl a c e d y o u in
,
s o fa v o r e d a n d go o dly a l a n d r a th e r th a n a m id th e b u r n i n g
,
s a n d s o f A fr ic a o r t h e fr o z e n wild s o f N o th r e r n A i
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i o n s i n s tit u ti o n s th a t a r e t h e g l o r y o f o ur l a n d
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w ill s e t fo r th B ut a s s e l f k n o wle dge i s th e m o s t i m p o r t a n t

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a n d a k n o wl e d g e o f o n e s o w n c o u n t r y is t o b e p r e fe r r e d t o
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th a t o f a ll o th er s w e will fi r s t t a k e a s u r v e y o f o u r s elv e s a n d
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w h en w e h a v e d o n e thi s if y o u b e c o m e w e a r y , y o u m ay r e
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tr e a t, a n d w e will e n d e a v o r to e n li s t s o m e o n e e l s e t o a e c o m
p a ny u s It i s o ur p u r p o s e h o w e v er to m a k e th e ci r c uit s o
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i n te r e s ti n g , th a t i ns te a d o f l e a vi n g u s , w e e xp e ct y o u wi ll
cli n g th e cl o se r , th e l o n ge r w e tr a v e l t o geth e r With o u t fur .
th er p r efa c e, th e n, w e w ill c o m m en c e o u r r e vi e w w ith A M ERIC A .

THE U N I VER S AL TR AVEL L ER .
A ME R I C A .
S ECT I O N I — N O R T H AME R I C A
.
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1 . U NI T E D S TATES .
T u n i n h a bit a n t s o f th e U n it e d S t a t e s h a vi n g d e s c e n d e d o r
e m ig r a t e d fr o m a l m o s t e v e r y n a ti o n i n E u r o p e , ar e n o t s o
a m a lg a m a t e d th a t th e y c a n w e ll b e b r o u ght t o g e th e r in o n e
d es c r ipti o n , a s to th e i r p e r s o n s , c o m pl e xi o n , o r fo r m I n ge n
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e r a l , th e y r e s e m bl e , i n p er s o n a l a pp e a r a n c e t h e i n h abit a n ts o f
th o s e c o u n t r i e s wh e n c e th ey o r igi n a t e d Th e r e i s , h o w e v er ,
.
th a t ch a n ge whic h a d i ffe r en t cli m a te a n d n e w m o d e s o f li fe ,

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a n d o th e r p e c u li a r ci r c u m s t a n c e s , m u s t n e c e s s a r ily p r o d u c e ,
a c c o r di n g to th e ti m e i n w hic h t h e s e v e r a l cl a s s e s o f th e p e o
l h a v e b e e n s e p a r a t e d fr o m t h e p a r e n t s t o ck T h e y m ay,
p e .
th er e fo r e , b e d e s c r i b e d i n th i s r e s p e ct, a n d p e r h a p s i n o th e r s ,
a cc o r di n g t o th e i r n a ti o n a l d e s c e n t, o r , whi c h i s m o r e c o n v e
n i e n t , a cc o r di n g t o t h e s e p ar a t e gr e a t divi s i o n s i n t o whic h
t h e u n i o n i s di s tr i b u t e d . T h e E n gli s h bl o o d gr e a tly p r e d o m i
n ate s . T hi s i s e s p e ci a lly th e c a s e i n N e w E n gl a n d T h e ih
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h ab it a n t s o f t h i s p ar t o f th e U n it e d S t a t es h a v e ge n e r ally fa i r
c o m pl exi o n s , b u t n u m b e r s a r e a s d a r k a s S p a n i a r d s o r It a l
i a n s , a n d th ey di ffer fr o m o n e a n o th e r n o t a littl e i n th e c a s t
o f th e i r c o u n t e n a n c e . T h e y ar e , fo r th e m o s t p a r t , r o b us t,
a n d c a p a bl e o f e n d u r i n g gr e a t h a r d s hip a n d fa tigu e T h ey
.
a r e s o m e wh a t t a ll e r a n d m o re s l e n d e r i n fo r m , b o t h m e n a n d
w o m e n , th a n th e i n h a b i ta n t s o f G r e a t B r it a i n T h e o b e s ity
.
a n d b r o a d c h e s ts a n d s h o ul d e r s o f t h e l a tt e r a r e s o m e ti m e s
m et with h er e b ut th e y a r e n o t s o c o m m o n a ch a r a ct er i s ti c ,
as i n th e c o u n tr y o f th e i r e a r ly a n c e s t o r s .S o m e o n e h a s es
ti m a te d , with wh a t s e r i o us n e s s w e will n o t p r e te n d to s ay , th e
We i ht o f s e v e n J oh n B u lls as e qu a l to th a t o f te n Ya n ke es
T e i n h a bit a n t s o f th e M i ddl e a n d Wes t er n S t a t es h a v e a
s i m il a r a pp e a r a n c e , s o fa r a s th e y p a r t a k e o f E n gli s h bl o o d,
a n d th a t g e n e r a lly p r e v a il s th o u h t h e r e is a far g r e a t e r m i x
, g
tur e o f r a c e s th a n t a k e s pl a c e i n N e w E n gl a n d N e w E n g .
l an d er s a n d th e i r d e s c e n d a n ts a r e fo u n d in l a r ge n u m b e r s i n
th es e p o r ti o n s o f th e U n it e d S t a t e s . P e o pl e o f D utch a nd
G r m a n d e s c e n t, h o w e v e r , c o n s tit ute n o s m all p a r t o f th e
e
Mi dd le S t a te s , p ar ti c ular ly o f N ew Y o r k a n d P e nnsylvania ,
g
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14 U NIVE R S A L T R A VELLER .
U N IT E D S TAT ES .
T h es e i n p e r s o n , r es em bl e th e n a ti o n s fr o m whic h th ey ar e
,
d e s c e n d e d , a n d v a r y , o f c o u r s e fr o m t h e N e w E n gl a n d fo r m
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a n d fe a t ur e s , th o u gh n o t i n a n y p r o m i n e n t d e r e e T h e thick e r .
fr a m e a n d s a n d y c o m pl e xi o n a r e d i s c e r n ib e b ut a m a lg a m a ,
ti o n is a dv a n ci n g by m e a n s o f i n te r m a r r i a g es T h e r e a r e .
a l s o n u m b e r s o f F r e n c h , I r i s h S wi s s a n d S w e d e s wi t h t h e i r
, , ,
ch ar a cte r i s tic di ffe r en c es o f p e r s o n a l a p p e a r a n c e .
T h e cit iz e n s o f t h e S o u th er n p or ti on o f th e c o un t r w h o ge n
e r a lly a r e o f E n gli s h d e s c e n t s h o w th e e ffe c t s 0,
a w a r m er
c li m a te , i n t h e s a ll o w c o m pl e xi o n by whic h th ey a r e d i s ti n
g u is h ed .H e r e ,
a s i n th e o th e r p a r t s o f t h e c o u nt r y d e s c e n d ,
a n t s o f d i ffe r e n t n a ti o n s a r e fo u n d wi t h t h e v a r i et y i n th e i r
p e r s o n a l a pp e a r a n c e which is to b e e xp e ct e d fr o m t h a t c a us e .
E s p e ci a lly i s thi s th e c a s e with t h e n e gr o e s th e gr e a t m a s s o f ,
W h o m a r e s l a v e s a n d w h o c o n s titute n e a r ly a n e qu a l p o r ti o n
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o f th e p o p u l a ti o n T h e i r ch a r a c te r i s tic fo r m fe a t ur e s , h u e
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& c , it is m o r e p r o p er t o d e s c r ib e wh e n w e c o m e t o s p e a k o f
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t h e n a tiv es o f A fr ic a T h e i n t e r m ixtu r e o f th e white r a c e a n d
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th e n e gr o h a s i n tr o d u c e d th e m u l a tt o w h o p a r t a k e s i n fo r m , ,
fe a tu r e s a n d c o m pl e xi o n o f b o th r a c es s o a s to m a k e a m e d i u m
, ,
c o n d iti o n i n th e s e r e s p e ct s b e tw e en whi tes a n d bl a ck s a n d is ,

m e t with fr e q u e n tly i n t h e s o u th e r n s t a te s S e v e r a l I n di a n .
tr ib e s a l s o s till r e m a i n , r e t a i n i n g th e p e c uli a r iti es o f th a t r a c e ,

a s t o p er s o n a l a pp e a r a n c e a n d c o m pl e xi o n .
I n t h e Wes t er n S t a t es o f th e u n i o n th e p o p u l a ti o n is o f a s in,
g u l ar ly m ix e d ch a r a c te r E m i.
g r a n ts p r o b a bly fr o m e v e r y,
c o un t r y o f E u r o p e a n d fr o m a ll th e o th e r s ta t e s o f th e r e p ub
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lic a r e fo un d i n th o s e wid e s p r e a d r e i o n s i n s o m e pl a c e s c o n
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o u s ly t o g e th e r C o n s e qu e n tly , th e r e is a s till r e a ter d iv e r s ity

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o f p er s o n a l a pp e a r a n c e in t h e w e s t er n s t a te s t a n e l s e wh e r e i n
thi s c o u n tr y A s h o w e v e r th e y ar e c o m p o s e d m o s tly o f t h e
.
, ,
e n t e r p r i s i n g cl a s s e s o f o t h e r r e gi o n s , th e y w e a r t h e a s p e ct o f
vi go r a n d a ctivity a n d th e i r m a n n e r o f li fe in m a n y i n s t a n c es ,
, ,
i m p a r ts to th e m a h a r d y a n d r o u gh e xt e r i o r T h ey s h o w o ften
t h e b r o w n vi s a g e , a n d t h e e xp a n d e d fo r m whic h a r e a cqu i r e d
.
by m e a n s o f t o il , exp o s u r e, a n d th e ex e r ci s e o f h un ti n g .
N e a r ly th e s a m e m a y b e s a i d r e s p e cti n g th e ch a r a ct er
o f th e p e o pl e o f t h e U n it e d S ta t e s , as w a s s a i d r es p e cti n g
th e i r p er s o n a l a pp e a r a n c e a s a w h o l e It c a n s c a r c e ly b e .
a ll o w e d e v e n u p t o thi s ti m e th a t w e h a ve th r o u gh o u t a n a
, ,
tio n a l c h ar a cte r C er t a i nly thi s will n o t b e a ll o w e d in th e

.
s e n s e in wh ic h n a ti o n a l c h a r a ct er i s a ttr ib u té d t o th e F r e n ch ,
G e r m a n s , S p a n i a r d s Chi n e s e o r i n d e e d t o m o s t o th e r n a ti o n s
, , ,
,
.
It is t o o m ix e d a n d v a r i o us to b e c o n t e m pl a te d u n d e r o n e ge n
e r a l a s p e ct o r t o b e d e s i gn a t e d by a n y p e c uli a r i t i e s a s d is ,
,
ti n ct fr o m th o s e whic h m a r k l a r g e c o ll e cti o n s o f th e h um a n
r ace T h e ci r c u m s t a n c e s o f t h e A m e r ic a n p eo pl e ar e n e w
.
a n d un e x a m le d i n th e hi s t o r y o f gr e a t n a ti o n s Th ey ar e .
c o n s titut e d 0 p or ti o n s o f e v er y E ur o p e a n n a ti o n a lth o u g h th e .
U N IT E D S T T
A ES .
w er e e xp o s e d fr o m a v a r i e ty o f o th e r c au s e s , th e fa ct a l o n e
t h a t th e y h a v e fill e d a wild a n d b o u n dl es s c o u n t r y with th e
a r t s a n d i n s tit u ti o n s o f civili z e d li fe , s h o w s a n i n d o m it a bl e
s pi r it o f ex e r ti o n a n d p e r s e v er a n c e .
W e j u s tly a l s o a ttr i but e to th e p eo pl e a l ar ge s h ar e o f p er

s on a l i n d e en d en c e a n d r es o lu ti on
p B o th n a t u r.a l a n d m o r a l
c au s es h a v e c o n s pi r e d in p r o d uci n g s u c h a tr a it o f c h a r a ct e r .
A m o n g t h e n a tu r a l c a us e s a r e o u r p r o xi m ity to th e d a n ger s
o f t h e o c e a n — t h e o r i i n a l wild n e s s o f o u r d o m a i n — th e s iz e
a n d n u m b e r o f b a y s , l a e s , a n d r iv e r s t h e n a vig a ti o n o f whic h
,
is o fte n a n e ff o r t o r w a s s u c h in fo r m er d a y s — th e e xt e n t a n d
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r u gge d fe a t u r e s o f o ur s o il a n d m a n y m o u n t a i n o u s t r a cts
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w hic h a r e th e n a tiv e s e a ts o f i n d e p e n d e n c e— th e p u r ity a n d
b r ightn e s s o f o u r s ki e s — a n d th e i n vig o r a ti n g ch a r a cte r o f o u r
c li m a t e . A m o n g t h e m o r a l c a us es p r o d uci n g tr a it s o f p er s o n ‘
it ] i n d e p e n d e n c e a n d r e s o l u ti o n , m a y b e m e n ti o n e d t h e o bj e ct s
s o u gh t in t h e e ar ly s e ttl e m e n t o f thi s c o u n t r y — t h e h a r d s hip s
t o whic h th e s e ttl er s w e r e s ub j e ct e d — th e i r fr e qu e n t c o n t e s t s
w ith th e n a tiv e s —th e r e v o l u ti o n a r y w a r a n d th e c o n s e qu e n t ,
a tt e n ti o n whic h w a s p a i d t o a r m s a n d m ilit a r y t o pic s a m o n
th e p eo pl e— t h e p r e d o m i n a n c e o f th e a g r ic ult u r a l i n t e r e s t whi o g ,
i s i n ti m a te ly c o n n e cte d with c o m p e t e n c e a n d i n d e p e n d e n c e
th e fa cility of fi n di n g e m pl o y m e n t a n d o f a cqu i r i n g p r o p e r ty
a n d t h e v a r i o u s i n s titu ti o n s civil a n d r e li gi o u s , by whic h th e
,
n a ti o n is di s ti n g u i s h e d T h e s e c a us es , e s p e ci a lly th e l a s t
.
n a m e d h a v e c o m bi n e d to p r o d u c e a n o bl e e l e v a t i o n o f th e
,
p ublic m i n d .
T h e p e o pl e o f th e U n it e d S t a t e s a r e di s ti n g ui s h e d fo r th e i r
en l i gh t en ed a n d cor d i a l a t t a ch m en t t o lib er t y b o th ci vi l a nd r e
l ig i o u s
. T h a t a tt a ch m e n t in r e s p e ct t o ci vi l lib er ty h a s b e en
m a n i fes te d i n v a r i o u s fo r m s , a n d a t gr e a t e xp e n s e It is t o b e .
s e e n i n a ll th e i r s t r uggl es with d es p o tic p o w e r, a n d i n t h e bl o o d

a n d t r e a s u r e s whic h th e y p o u r e d o u t t o o bt a i n th e i r e m a n e i
p a t i o u fr o m a fo r e i n y o k e W e l e a r n it in th e ir c o n s titutio n s l
'
o f g o v er n m e n t , b o t th a t o f th e u n i o n , a n d th o s e o f th e i n di
vid ua l s t a t e s It i s e xhi b ite d in th e s e ttl e d o pi n i o n s o f th e
.
p e o pl e , a s e xp r e s s e d in c o n v e r s a ti o n a n d w r iti n g, i n th e i r c o u n
cils a n d i n th e i r c o u r ts o f j us tic e I t m a y h e r e m a r k e d r e
.
s p e cti n g t h e A m e r ic a n c o n s titu ti o n s m er e ly , th a t th ey ar e s u
p r e m e , wr itte n l a ws , s a n cti o n i n g a n d a d o pti n g, h o w e v er , th e
la w o f n a ti o n s , a n d th e c o m m o n la w o f th e o r i gi n a l c o n fe d
er a t e d B r iti s h e m pi r e T h e y pl a c e th e l e gis l a tiv e , e x e c u tive ,
.
a n d j udici a l p o w e r s i n a s t a t e o f s e p a r a ti o n a n d m u t u a l i n d e
e n d i n m o e c o n s id e r a bl e d e r ee th a n h as b ee n d o n e
p e n c e a r g
i n a n y o th er c o u n tr y T h e p r i n cipl e s o f civil lib e r ty , s o w ell
.
d e fi ne d , h a v e b e e n s a c r e dly c h e r i s h e d th r o u gh th e wh o l e p e ri o d
o f o u r hi s t o r y T h e s a m e h a s b e e n t h e c a s e , e v e n p er h a p s
.
m o r e e m i n e n tly , in r e s p e ct t o r eli gi o u s li b e r ty I ts p r 1 n 01 p les , .
in ge n e r a i h a v e b ee n p er fe ctly u n d er s to o d , a n d m o s t s a c r e dly
u d d R p ct f t h ight o f co n s c ie n c e i s i n n o c o u n
g ar r s
c
e . e s e o r e
tr y s o ge ner a l , s o c o n s pic u o u s o r s o w ell s e c ur e d by civil ih
U NIVER S A L T R A VELLE R . [7
PE O P L I N T LLI G N T
E E E AN D E D UCA T E D .
s t ituti o n s , a n d by th e r eligi o u s di s cipli n e , p r a ctic e , a n d t e n e ts

o f t h e v a r i o u s c h u r ch e s W e s ee h e r e th e C o n g r e ga ti o n a l a n d
.
th e P r e s byte r i a n C a lvi n i s t s w o r s hippi n g th e D e ity i n e a ch o th

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e r s h o us e s S o o f t h e G e r m a n L u th e r a n a n d G e r m a n R e fo r m
.
,
e d C a lvi n i s t s S o o f t h e E n gli s h , a n d S w e d i s h a n d G e r m a n
.
,
L uth e r a n c o n g r e g a ti o n s S o m e r e li i o u s h o u s e s a r e u s e d by
.
a ll . M a r r i age s a r e p e r fo r m e d by t e m i n i s te r s a n d m a gi s
t r a te s o f e a c h o f th e v a r i o u s c h u r c h e s fo r th e m e m b e r s o f o th
ers .T h e m e m b er s o f th es e s o ci e ti e s h a v e o ffi ci a t e d a t t h e
i n t e r m e n t o f d e c e a s e d p e r s o n s o f e a c h o th er s c h u r c h e s F a m
’
.
ilie s o f a ll r e ligi o us s o ci e ti e s i n t e r m a r r y S uc h a r e c o m m on .
o c c u r r e n c es , a n d a r e t h e r e ligi ous a n d c h ar i ta b l e h a bit s o f th e

c o m m u ni ty T h e c o n s tit uti o n o f t h e U n it e d S t a t e s p r o hibit s ,
.
in exp r es s a n d p e r e m pt o r y t e r m s t h e r e qu i r i n g o f a r e ligi o u s ,
t e s t, i n a n y c a s e by th e s t a tute s o f th e n a ti o n a l l e gis l a t u r e
,
.
T h e c o n s tit uti o n s o f a v e r y l a r g e p r o p o r ti o n o f th e s e v er a l
s t a t e s c o n t a i n s i m il a r o r e q uiv a l e n t s e c u r i ti e s fo r th e r i h ts o f
c o n s ci en c e T h e r e is h er e n o w a r a m o n g t h e di ffe r e n t e ur c h
.
e s o r s o ci e ti es N o n e h a s th e s w o r d o f s t a t e to r a i s e a g a i n s t
.
a s i s t e r c h ur c h T h e p e a c e ful ch u r c h e s a r e th er e fo r e a s
.
fr e e a n d a s s t r o n g a s th e c h u r c h e s whic h a d m it d e fe n s iv e
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r e s i s ta n c e A tt a c h m e n t o f th e m o s t e nlighte n e d a n d a r d en t
.
ki n d to c ivil a n d r e li gi o us lib er ty h a s b e e n s h o w n in th e s e
v a r i o u s w a y s o n th e p a r t o f th e A m er ic a n p e o pl e It i s s till
,
.
m an i fe s t e d a m o n g t h e m i n all its p r i s ti n e vi go r .
T h e y h a v e m o r e o v e r th e c h a r a ct e r i s tic d i s ti n cti o n o f b e i n g
, ,
a n i n t elli g en t a n d ed u ca t ed eo l e T h e i n t e ll c t u l ch a r a ct er
p p e a .
o f o u r n a t iv e ci tiz e n s c o m p a r es fa v o r a b ly wi t h t h a t o f t h e n a
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ti o n fr o m which w e s p r un g a n d c o n s e qu e n tly with th a t o f o th e r ,
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T h e s tr o n g .
E n gli s h go o d s e n s e i s p r e d o m i n a n t T h e c a p a city fo r m e .
c h a n i c a l in v e n ti o n s a n d i m p r o v e m e n t s is p er h a p s s till g r e a t ,
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er . F o r th e s e e ffo r t s o f ge n i u s , th e r e is a wi d e fi el d in thi s
c o un tr y a n d th e s pi r it o f e n ter p r i s e is hi ghly fa v o r a bl e to th e i r
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d e v el o p m e n t T h e r e w a r d s o f i n t elli g e n c e a n d i n g e n u ity a r e
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w e ll c alc ul a te d to s ti m ul a te th e gi fte d m i n d s o f o u r c o u n tr y
m e n t o e x e rt i o n T h ey w h o a r e fitte d by e d uc a ti o n a n d
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k n o wl e d g e fo r s i tu a ti o n s wh er e th es e e n d o w m e n t s a r e w a n te d ,
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a bl e e m pl o y m e n t It i s n o t h er e a s i n th e c o n fi n e d , o v e r
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g r o w n c o un tr i e s o f E ur o p e ; a n d d o ubtl e s s will n o t s o o n b e , , ,
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o f b u s i n e s s i n te ll e ct u a l o r m e c h a n ic a l i s i n a s t a t e o f s u r fe it
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H er e th e fi eld fo r e n te r p r is e , di r e cte d by i n te llig e n c e is a l

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m o s t u n li m it e d .
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h ur c h It i s b eli e v e d th a t w e s h o u ld fa ll a p r e y to i n c ur abl e
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ev fl s u n l e s s t h e m i n d s o f o ur citi z e n s w er e e n li h t e n e d ~ b
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s o u n d a n d vi r t u o u s e d u c a ti o n Ext r a o r d i na r y p r ov is i o n
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h e r efo r e , h a s b e e m ad e fo r th e u niv e rs a l i n s truc t i on o f th e
g ’ p
U N IT E D S TA T ES .
p e o pl e , by m e a n s o f c o m m o n s ch o o l s in t h e r u d i m en t s o f ,
k n o wle d ge , whil e gr e a t a tte n ti o n h as b e e n p a i d t o th e t r a i n i n g
o f m a n y i n t h e hi gh e r b r a n ch e s o f l e ar n i n g T h e ge n er a l i h .
s tit utio n o f c o m m o n s ch o o l s i n th e m a nn e r i n which t h e o h
j e c t i s e ffe ct e d ,
i s p er h a p s
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a p e c uli a r ity o f th e A m e r ic a n n a
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tio n . T h e s e in m o s t o f th e s t a te s e xt e n d t h e a d va n t a g es o f
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e d u c a ti o n a n d i n t e llig e n c e th r o u gh o u t th e wh o l e m a s s o f th e
p o p u l a ti o n .
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c a u s e o f m i s r e p r es en t a ti o n o r m i s u n d e r s t a n d i n g o n th e p a r t ,
o f fo r e ig n er s a s to th e t r ue s t a t e o f thi n g s
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S o m e ti m e s w e .
h a v e b e e n r e p r o a ch e d a s n o t b e i n g a liter a r y p e o p le— a s h a v
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in g n o lit er a t u r e a n d th a t in th e fa c e o f t h e i m m e n s e p r o vi s
i o n whic h w e h a v e m a d e fo r ge n e r a l a n d th o r o ugh e d u c a ti o n .
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ity r es p e c t in g it whic h is th e c a u s e o f its b e in g m i s u n d er s t o o d

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th a t is to s ay , wh er e th e c a u s e is n o t p r ej u d ic e T h e p e c uli a r .
ity is , th a t t h e p ublic , t h e g r e a t b o d y o f th e p e o pl e a r e e n light ,
ened . T h ey h a v e a cqu i r e d m o r e o r l es s s to r e s o f i n fo r m a ti o n
It i s t h e v a s t p r o p o r ti o n a l n um be r h er e t h a t p o s s es s k n o wl e dg e ,
whic h r e n d e r s it s o di ffic ult fo r fo r eig n e r s i n m a n y c a s e s to
j u d ge o f th e l e a r n i n g o f th e n a ti o n T h e i r o pi n i o n is fo r m e d .
by wh a t th e y s e e a m o n g th e m s elv e s wh er e k n o wl e d ge is p o s ,
s e s s e d by t h e fe w a n d wh e r e o f c o u r s e i t a pp e a r s t h r o u gh t h e
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c o n tr a s t c o n s i d er abl e H e r e it i s p o s s es s e d b y a ll o r n e a r ly
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a ll, a n d th er e fo r e it i s u n d i s ti n gu i s h e d T hi s is o u r w a n t o f .
l e a r n i n g — o f lit e r a tur e ! T hi s is o u r i n t ell e ct ua l i n fe r i o r ity !

E n lighte n e d a n d c a n d id p e r s o n s w h o h av e vi s ite d u s fr o m ,
ab r o a d h a v e fo un d h o w th e fa ct i s a n d in s o m e i n s t a n c e s
, ,
h a v e m a d e it k n o w n t o th e i r c o u n t r y m en T h i s h a s b ee n d o n e .
o f l a te in a v e r y s a ti s fa ct o r y m a n n e r by D r R e i d , w h o in
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c o n n e xi o n wit h D r M a tth e s o n vi s it e d t h e A m er ic a n ch ur ch es
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i n 1 8 34 b e i n g t h e D e p u t a ti o n fr o m t h e C o n gr e g a ti o n a l U n i o n
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o f E n gl a n d a n d W a l e s A fte r a d e t ail e d a cc o un t o f th e s ub
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j c e t o f e d u c a ti o n in th i s c o u n tr y a s it w a s p r e s e n te d to h i s ,
V i e w , i n o u r c o ll e gi a t e th e o l o gic a l a n d c o m m o n s ch o o l s i n
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t h e a c a d e m y , a n d fe m a l e b o a r di n g s ch o o l s , th e wr it er fo r ci -
bly r e m a r k s :
“A n d w e a r e to l d i n th e fa c e o f a ll thi s e v id e n c e with p e tu
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l a n c e a n d p r i d e , th a t th e A m e r ic a n s h a ve n o lite r a tu r e a n d a r e ,
n o t a li t e r a r y p e o pl e N o t lit e r ar y ! a n d y e t th ey h a v e d o n e
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m o r e fo r l e tte r s t h a n a n y p e o pl e e v e r d id i n s i m il a r ci r c u m
s t a n c es N o t lit er a r y ! a n d y e t th ey h a v e m a d e m o r e e xt e n
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s iv e g r a n ts i n fa v o r o f u n iv e r s a l e d u c a ti o n th a n a n y o th e r
c o u n tr y N o t lit e r a r y ! a n d y e t n o t o n ly t h e c o m m o n s ch o o l
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b u t th e a c a d e m y a n d t h e c o ll e ge ar e tr a v e lli n g o v e r th e b r e a d t h
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o f t h e l a n d ; a n d a r e s o m e ti m e s l o c a t e d i n t h e d e s e r t, i n a n
t ic i p at io n o f a r a c e th a t s h a ll b e b o r n N o t lite r a r y ! a n d y e t .
in t h e m o r e s e ttl e d s t a tes a fo ur th p a r t o f th e p e o pl e ar e at
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s ch o o l a n d in t h e S t a t e o f N e w Y o r k a l o n e a p a r t fr o m a ll
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U NIV ER S AL T R A V E LLER . I9
LIT R A TU R E E .
t a in e d at a y e a xp en s e o f m o r e th a n
r ly e d o ll a r s N ot .
.
lite r a r y ! a n d y et th e r e ar e i n thi s n e w c o un t r y fif te en u ni ver

si t i es f o r t y
—s i x co ll eg es t w e n t y o n e m e d ic a l s ch o o l s ; a n d
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t w en t y o n e th eo lo gic a l
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N o t lit e r a r y ! a n d ye t th e y C i r c ula te
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s e ve n h u n d r ed a n d fift y m i l lio n s of n e wsp ap er s e a r — th 1 s I S

a y ,
t w en t y fi ve t o o u r o n e
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a n d a ll o u r b e s t b o o k s c o m m o n ly r u n
th r o u g h m o r e a n d l a r ge r e d it i o n s th a n th ey d o a t h o m e T h e y .
h a v e n o lit e r a t ur e i n d e e d ! T h e fa ct is th ey h a ve a ll th e ll t er a
t u r e th a t is p o s s i b l e t o th e i r a ge a n d ci r c u m s t a nc e s ; a n d a s
th e s e a d v a n c e t h e y w ill a s s u r e d ly a d v a n c e m th e m o r e a h
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s t r us e a n d a b s tr a c t s ci e n c e s til l it s h a l l b e a b o ld thi n g fo r a n y
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t o c a ll th e m s e lve s t h e i r p e e r s T h e i r fi d e lity fo r th e p a s t is
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t h e i r s e c u r i ty fo r th e f utu r e M e a n ti m e a r e no t N e wto n a n d
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L o ck e B a c o n a n d S h a k s p e a r e a s m u c h th e i r s as th e y ar e
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o ur s ? l V o u l d i t b e wi s d o m o n t h e i r p a r t t o r e p u d i a te th e m ,
e v e n if t h e y h a d n o t a n e q u a l cl a i m to t h e m W o u ld it b e
w i s d o m i n u s to r e p r o a c h t h e m with t a s t e s whic h d o th em
h o n o r a n d to e nd e a v o r t o s e p ar a te t h e m fr o m c o m m u n ity i n
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o u r c o m m o n r e p u b lic o f l e tt e r s which m o r e th a n a n y thi n g ,
m a y m a ke t w o g r e a t n a ti o n s th a t a r e o n e i n a ffi n ity o ne i n ,
fa c t ? F o r m y o w n p a r t I k n o w o f n o thi n m o r e t r uly s ub
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li m e t h a n t o s ee t hi s p e o ple i n th e v e r y i n a n cy o f th e i r n a
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ti o n a l e xi s t e n c e p ut fo r th s u ch H e r c u l e a n e n er gy fo r th e d iff u
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s i o n o f u n iv e r s a l k n o wl e dg e a n d u n iv e r s a l vi r t u e
T h e A m er ic a n p e o pl e a r e di s ti n gui s h e d by a r efin ed p r a ct i
c a l h u ma n it T hi s ch ar a cte r i s tic i s e xp r e s s e d in m a n y o f
o u r l a ws a n c u s t o m s e s p e ci a lly w h e re th ese d i ffe r fr o m th o se
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o f m o s t o th er n a ti o n s T h e l a w o f p r i m og en i tu r e is u n k n o wn
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h e r e I n E n gl a n d th e o l d e s t s o n e n gr o s s e s all th e r e a l p r o p er
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ty . S i s ter s o l d e r th a n h e a n d b r o the r s a n d s i s te r s yo u n ger ,
,
a r e u n n a t u r a lly d e p r iv e d o f e v e r y b u ild i n g a n d o f e v e r y p o r ,
’
ti o n o f th e fa th e r s l a n d a n d o f e v er y pe r p e t ua l g ro un d r en t
,
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T h u s fa m ilie s b r e d wi th e qu a l i n d ul ge n c e a nd e v e n th e te n d er ,
s ex ,
a r e s a c r ific e d to t h e p r i d e a n d i n h u m a n ity o f wh a t is c a ll
e d p r i m o g e n it u r e T h e S t a te s o f C o n n e ctic u t a n d P e n n s yl
.
v a n i a a n d p r o b a bly s o m e o th e rs , did a w a y th e E n gli s h

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c o m m o n la w b e fo r e th e r e v o l uti o n S i n c e th a t e v e n t, th e la w
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o f d e s c e n t s h a s b ee n a lt e r e d i n fa v o u r o f n a t ur a l a fl e c ti o n ,
a n d o f t h e t e n d e r l o v e o f fe m a l e c hil d r e n i n a ll th e S t a t es ,
.
T h e s it u a ti o n o f t h e wi d o w h a s a l s o b ee n a m e li o r a t e d in t hi s
c o u n t r y by m e a n s o f la w N o t o n ly th e feu d a l s y s te m b ut
,
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e v e r y m i n u t e fr a gm e n t o f th a t s ch e m e wh i c h c o n s id er e d w o ,
m e n a s n au ghts i n t h e c r e a ti o n is a b r o g a te d in A m er ic a
,
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W e h a ve n o c u s t o m o f imp r es s m en t as th ey h a v ein E n gl a n d ,
.
T h e h u m a n ity o f thi s c o u n t r y r e v o lt s a g a i n s t it I n E n gl a n d , .
it i s o fte n use d t o fo r c e l a n d s m e n a w a y fr o m th e i r c o n n e xi o ns
to en c o u n te r a n e w e l e m e n t P a s s en ger s o n th e w ay t o th ei r
.
p r o p e r ti e s o r fa m ili e s a r e e xp o s e d t o thi s di s t r e s s i n g o p e r a ti o n .
T h e y o u n g s e a m a n w h o h a s tr i e d t h e s t o r m y o c e a n , t o o bt a in
b r e a d fo r a wid o w e d m o th e r a n d o r p h a n fa m ily is c r u e lly to r n ,
fr o m th e m a t t he m o m e nt o f h is r e t ur n a n d th e m a rr i e d s ail o r ,
20 U NIVER S A L T R A VELLER .
on wh o m l xi o u s wi fe a n d r i s i n g fa m ily d e p e n d fo r
a one an an
e d u c a ti o n a n d s u b s i s t e n c e is o n ly a ll o w e d a fte r a l o n g v o y a g e
, , ,
t o vi e w a t a d i s t a n c e th e i r m o u r n fu l a b o d e I n th e U n ite d .
S ta te s s u c h s c en e s a r e n e v e r witn e s s e d
, .
T h e p en a l co d e o f thi s c o u n tr y i s r e m ar k a b ly m il d th u s ,
s h o wi n g a l s o th e e n ligh te n e d h u m a n ity o f th e n a ti o n A s th e .
r i gh ts o f c o n s ci e n c e a r e m a i n t a i n e d i n a ll o u r c o n s titu ti o n s o f
g o v er n m e n t a n d th er e a r e n o e ccl e s i a s tic a l t e s ts a ll th a t cl a s s
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o f a go n izi n g p u n i s h m e n ts fi n e s i m p r i s o n m e n ts p r iv a ti o n s
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e xil e, a n d t o r t u r e a r e u n k n o w n whic h h a v e b e e n a d m itt e d i n
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c o u ntr i e s w h e r e a r e li gi o u s ty r a nn y h a s b e e n e s t a b li s h e d T h e
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d r e a d fu l s e v e r iti e s t o o to which t h e d e fe n c e o f th e s t a t e h a s
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g iv en r i s e h a v e n,
o e xi s t e n c e i n thi s c o u n t r y W e r e ad n o t o f .
t h e r a ck th e wh eel fi r e a n d fa g o t d e c a pi t a t i o n e m b o w e lli n g
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doc a m o n g A m e r ic a n p u n i s h m e n t s o f tr e a s o n
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W e r e a d no t .
o f a n en t a il o f fo r fe it u r e u p o n t h e u n o ffe n d i n
g fa m ily a n d th e ,
m a li gn a n t c o r r u p ti o n o f t h e b lo o d T h e p o w e r o f d o i n g th e .
l a tt er i s e xp r e s s ly fo r bi d d e n t o C o n r e s s a n d th a t b o dy h a s ,
t h e r igh t t o r ej e ct t h e p un i s h m e n t o t h e l e a s t p a i n ful ki n d o f
d e a th fo r t h e m o s t high h a n d e d t r e a s o n
,
Ho w d i ffe r en t t h i s .
fr o m t h e c o d e s o f m o s t o th er n a ti o n s A n d t h e n th e n u m b er . .
o f c r i m es p u n i s h a bl e by d e a t h i n m o s t n a ti o n s — e v e n in E n
g
l a n d w h e n c e o u r p r i n cipl e s o f j u r i s p r u d en c e a r e d er iv e d is
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e n o r m o u s c o n s i d er i n g t h e v al u e o f h u m a n li fe a n d t h e n e c e s
, ,
d n e s s b y n o t c o n fo un di n g ,
u r p i tu d e I n thi s c o u n t r y o u .
,
a n d t w o o r th r ee o t h e r c r i m e s
,
I n r e s p e ct t o th ei r m or a l a n d r el ig i o n s ch a r a ct er , th e p eo pl e
o f th e U n it e d S
t at e s p r e s e n t a n i n te r e s ti n g e x a m pl e to t h e r e
s p e ct o f m a n ki n d , a s t h e e ffe ct o f t h e i r p e c u li a r i n s t it u ti o n s .
A s t o p o litic a l m o r a lity , w e c o n s i d e r t h e l a w o f n a ti o n s a s th e
p ub lic la w o f m o r a l s O ur j ud ici a r y d e p a r tm e n t i s b o un d t o
.
a dj u d ic a t e by t h a t l a w A ggr i e v e d a n d i nj ur e d in o u r p er s o n s
.
a n d p r o p e r ty by vi o l a ti o n s o f th i s la w b ey o n d e x a m pl e , w e
h a v e n ev e r y e t r a i s e d o ur v o ic e fo r i ts a b r o ga ti o n A s s o o n .
s h o u l d w e thi n k o f r e p e a li n g t h e a cts o f h o n o r , o f p r iv a te m o ‘
r a lity , o r o f r eligi o n it s el f T h ey c o m p o s e , i n t r u th , o n e gr e a t,
.
a n d g o o d , a n d bi n d i n g l a w , wit h a v a r i e ty o f s o l e m n s a n c t i o n s .
T h ey a r e , i n d e e d , b ut d i ffe r e n t n a m es fo r th e s a m e i n es ti m abl e
thi n g F o r th er e c a n b e n o h o n o r , o r p r iv a te m o r a lity , o r p o
.
liti c a l j u s tic e, whic h i s n o t fo u n d e d o n r e ligi o n Y e t, w e m a y .
n o tic e t h e fact, t h a t r e li gi o n i s n o t s u pp o r te d by p u blic e n a c t

ae n ts o f l a w in th e U n ite d S
t a tes A ll r eli g i o n s a r e equ a lly .
t o l er a t ed u n d er o u r g o v er n m en t T h e g o v e r n m en t d o e s n o t
.
u n d e r t a k e t o d e cid e wh a t fo r m o f w o r s hip is b e s t, a n d l e a v e s
e v er y i n d ivid u a l to fo ll o w t h e dict a t es o f h is c o n s ci e n c e a n d
s e n s e o f d u ty , o n thi s s u bj e ct O f c o u r s e , it h a s n o s t a te e u
.
d o w m e n t , b u t a ll is l e ft t o th e v o l u n ta r y e ffo r t s o f t h e p eo pl e,
i n s u s t a i n i n g r e li gi o us i n s titu ti o n s T hi s p e c uli ar ity o f o ur .
c o un tr y h a s a tt r a ct e d m u ch n o tic e a b r o a d , a n d d es er ves a n
U NI VER S A L T R A VELLER . 21
I NHA B ITAN T S OF N EW E NG L AND .
ex t e n d e d c o m m e n t b ut it c a n o n ly b e m e n ti o n e d h er e th a t it
,
is a gr e a t fe licity T h e e vil s o f a n o pp o s ite s t a te o f thi n gs a r e
.
in c a leul a b le T h e m i s er y o f a n i n v a d e d c o n s ci e n c e i s in c a lc u
.
l a ble A n d al m o s t e v er y o the r n a ti o n h a s i n flicte d i t o n i ts

.
s u bj e c ts A m e r i c a h as l e ar n e d wis d o m by the p a s t e r r o r s o f
.
th e w o r ld i n thi s p a r tic ul a r
,
H appy r esults , in r es p e c t to m o .
r a l s o r de r a n d pi e ty h a ve fo llo w e d th e c o ur s e whic h s h e h as
, ,
a d o pte d T h e r eligio us co r r upti o n s o f o th e r co un tr ie s h a ve
.
b e e n a vo id ed M o r ality fl o u r i s h e s R e ligio n fl o u r i s h e s O r
. . .
d e r is o b s e r ve d T h e i n s tit uti o n s o f C h r i s ti a n ity a r e h o n o r e d

.
a n d a tte n d e d u p o n T h e p r e a c hi n g o f th e G o s pe l, i n th e m a i n ,
.
is w ell s u pp o r te d ~ T h e vo l un t a r y p r i n cipl e , in o pp o s iti o n t o

.
a n E s t a b li s h m e n t i s fo u n d t o b e b o th s a fe a n d e ffic ie n t G od .
,
h a s bl es s e d o u r l a n d with m u ltipli ed a nd e xt e n d e d re fo r m a
ti o n s B en e v o l e n t o p e r a ti o n s a r e s u s t a i n e d a nd in m o s t in s ta n
.
,
c e s b ey o n d e xp e ct a ti o n T hi s is e s p e ci a lly th e fa ct in r e g a r d to
.
t h e t e m p e r a n c e r e fo r m whic h it s e l f h as m od ifi e d a n d i m ,
p r o v e d th e c h a ra c te r o f th e p e o ple, i n no in c o ns i de r a ble d e
g
S u ch ch a r ac te r o f th e p eo pl e o f th e U n ite d S t a te s , s o
i s th e
fa r a s t h ey c a n b e gr o u p e d to ge th er fo r a d e s c r ipti o n T h es e .
vi e w s w o u ld b e , in a m e a s u r e v a r i e d an d exte n d e d by c o n , ,
t e m p l atin g th e i r tr aits , in t h e d i ffe r e n t la r ge fl i vis io ns o f th e

c o un t r y .
T h e ch ar a ct e r o f th e i n h a bit a n ts o f N ew E n g la nd is n o t a
littl e m a r ke d T h e i r i n t e lli ge n c e is n u e s tio n a b le N o p e o
. .
p le a s a b o dy h a ve e nj o y e d s o m a n y m a s o f m e n t a l c ult ur e
, ,
a n d i m p r o vem ent o r h a v e m ad e s o go o d a u s e o f th e m
,
In .
n o c o u n tr y i s m or e m o n ey e xp e n d e d fo r t h e i n s t r u cti o n o f th e
e n ti r e p o p u l a ti o n o r to gr e a te r e ffec t
,
N 0 c o u ntr y is s o w e l l .
fill e d u p wit h s ch o o l s , a c a d e m i es , a n d c o ll e ge s , with s o m a n y

p er s o n s w h o h a v e a v a ile d the m se lve s o f th e p r ivil e ge s th u s
,
a ffo r d e d A ll with s c ar c e ly a ny e xc e pti o n s , a re ta u ht to

.
,
r e a d a n d w r ite ; a n d th e a cc o m pli s h m e n t o f a k n o wl e ge o f
a r ith m e tic gr a m m a r ge o g r a phy hi s t o ry
,
a n d p o litic s , i s fr e
, , ,
que n tly fo und i n th e c o m m o n w a l ks o f li fe T h e i r i n qu i s itiv e .
tur n h a s b e e n fr e que n tly n o tic e d by o th er s b ut it is n o t ge n

e r a lly to b e u n der st o o d i n a light o r fr i vo l o u s s e nse T hey .
a r e i n q u i s itiv e fo r k no wl e d ge b u t th e y s e ld o m i nd ulg e th e ,
p a s s i o n in a m a n ne r whic h j u s tifi e s th e c o m pl a i nt s t h a t h a v e
,
b e en m a de c o n ce r n i n g it T h ey r e p a y th e ta x whic h th ey .
i m p o s e o n o the r s by a n e qu a l a m o u n t o f c o m m u n ic a ti o n s
,
.
T h e y a r e r e m a r k a bl e fo r s h r e wd n es s a n d c a lc ul a ti on b ut thi s ,
s pi r it i s s eld o m a ll o y e d by th e a r t s o f d e ce p tio n A lth o u gh .
p r o p er ly s p e a ki n g th e y ar e n o t ar d e nt o r s an gui ne in t em p er a
m en t th ey a r e r e s o l ute a n d p er s e ve r i n g
,
“I n e n e r y a n d a ctivity o f m i n d ” s ay s D r D w i ht
.
g g w e ar e ,
.
,
b e hi n d n o p e o ple T h e r e is no thi n g which p r o m i s e s a b e n e fit
.
a t a ll a d e q u a t e t o th e e xp e n s e o f t h e e ffo r t w h ic h a N e w E n
g ,
l a n d e r will n o t ch e e r fu lly u n d er t a k e With t h i s a c tive s pi rit, .
th ey un ite a gen er a l d is p os itio n to a qui e t, o r d er ly, an d o b lig

22 U NIVE R S A L TR A VE LLER .
in g d e p o r tm e n t, t o t r e a t s t r a n ge r s a n d e a c h o th er with ci vil i ty ,
t o s ub m it r ea d ily to l a w fu l a u t h o r ity , a n d t o o b ey e v e n th e r e»
c o m m e n d a ti o n s o f th e i r r u l er s Th e y a r e a l s o s o ci a l ; a tt a ch
.
e d t o c o n v e r s a ti o n ; a cc u s to m e d fr o m e a r ly li fe to t a k e a n i n
t e r e s t i n t h e c o n c e r n s o f ot h e r s a n d h a b itu a lly to fe e l fr o m
childh o o d th at th e y h a ve, a n d o u ght t o h a v e , a r e a l i n te r e s t in
th e s e c o n c er n s ” .
T h e c h a r a cter o f o u r i n t er cour s e with o n e a n o th er d e s er v es

n o tic e . W e a r e s a id to b e g r a ve G r a vity is m er e ly a c o m
.
p ar a ti v e t e r m I t i s , th e r e fo r e , i m p o s s ibl e t o k n o w p r e ci s e ly
.
w h a t is m e a n t b y it, u nle s s w e k n o w a l s o th e s t an d a r d o f c o m
p ar i s o n r e fe r r e d to b y h im w h o u s es it T h a t which is gr a v e .
t o t h e e y e o f a F r e n ch m a n , w o u l d b e l ev i ty in th e vi e w o f a
S p a n i ar d T h e N e w E n gl a n d p eo pl e a pp e a r t o di s c e r n , wi th
.
a s m u ch r e a di n e s s cl e a r n e s s , a n d c er ta in ty , a s a ny p e o pl e ,
,
p e r h a p s , i n th e w o r ld , wh a t is c o m m o n l y o r i n d e e d j u s tly i n ‘
te n d e d by p r o p r i e ty , a n d as r e gu l ar ly to es t i m a te thi n gs a o
c o r d i n g t o th e i r v a lu e T h e t r uth u n qu es t i o n ab ly is , o ur s o ci a l
.
‘
m e e ti n gs a r e p r o b a b ly a s c h e er ful , S p r i ghtly , a n d r e pl e n i s h e d
a s o ften wit h s a l li es o f w it a n d go o d h u m o r , a s th o s e o f a n y
o th er p o pl e O n gr a v e s ubj e c t s w e a r e gr a v e a n d o n s uc h
e .
s u bj e ct s w e ar e m o r e a c c u s t o m e d t o d w el l with ple as u r e , t h a n
m e n l ess d i s p o s e d t o a d m it t h e d o ctr i n e s a n d d u ti e s o f d ivi n e
r e ve l a t io n . It m u s t b e a ck n o wl e d ge d th a t w e thi nk , c o n v e r s e ,
a n d w r i te m u c h le s s c o n c e r n i n g t h e a t r e s a n d a ct o r s th a n t h e
i n h a bit a n ts o f L o n d o n a s th e y d o l e s s th a n t h e i n h ab it a n ts o f
P a r i s A m u s e m ent s a r e n o t h e r e th e p r i n cip a l c o n c er n o f
.
li fe n o r a m o n g a m u s e m en ts d o w e co n s id er pl ay s a s p o s
s e s s in g t h e b es t c h ar a c te r , o r th e h a ppi es t in fl ue n c e , o n t h e i n
t e r e s ts o f m e n ” .
T h e m o r a li ty a n d p i ety o f th e p e o pl e o f N e w E n gl a n d h a ve
b ee n vi s i b l e th r o u gh o u t th e i r hi s t o r y Vic e a n d i r r e li gi o n i a
.
d e e d e xi s t— th e e ff e c ts o f th e c o m m o n d ep r a vity o f h u m a n n a
t u r e ar e c e r t a i n ly vi s i b le t o a d e gre e to be la m e n te d ; b ut in
t h e c o m p a r i so n with o th e r c o m m u n iti e s , w e h a v e m uch o cc a
s i o n t o a ck n o wl e d g e with gr a titu d e , t h e e ffi c a cy o f t h e Ch r i s
ti a n p r i n cipl es , whic h ar e s o u n iv er s a lly i n c ulc a t e d a m o n g t h e
p e o pl e It is in a d e gr e e th e c a se , a s o n e r e m ar k e d, w h o h a d
.
“
fo u n d h i s h o m e in a fo r e i gn c o u n tr y , th a t a p er s o n m u s t
n e v er l e a v e N e w E n gl a n d , w h o w o ul d p r e s er v e h is m o r a l s
th a t is , h e m us t n e v er l ea v e it fo r a fo r e ign c o un tr y T h e d e .
s c e n d a n t s o f th e p u r ita n s h e r e r e t a i n m u c h o f t h e s tr ict n e s s o f
th e i r fa th er s T h ey a r e k n o w n by th e i r ge n e r a l so b r i e ty a n d
.
'
de c o ru m — b y th e i r v e n er a ti o n fo r s a c r e d t hi n gs — by t h ei r r e
g a r d fo r t h e a S
bb a th — b y t h e i r e s ti m a ti o n o f t h e m i n i s t r y — b y
th e i r d e vo u t a tt en d a n c e o n th e p ub lic w o r s hi p o f G o d — a n d by
th e i r r eli gi o us c a r e a n d e d uc a ti o n o f t h e i r chil d r e n W e h a v e .
t i e d p e o pl e m a n y v e n e r a bl e r e m a i n s o f th e s e d a t e
y e n o u r a g
s pi r it o f o l d e r t i m e s .
I n r e s p e ct to th e ch ar a ct er o f th e wom en o f N e w E n gl a n d ,
it h a s b e e n r em ar k e d , th a t th e ir m in d s , o ft e n p o ss e s s in g a
24 U NIVER S A L TR A VELLER .
an d in P hil a d elphi a i n p a r tic ul ar , th e ar t s a n d s ci e n c es a r e

s u c c e s s fu lly c u ltiv a te d I n th e l a r ge r citi e s o f th e M id d l e
.
S ta tes , th e num b er i s v er y c o n s id er a bl e o f th o s e w h o li ve a t
p ublic h o te l s a n d b o a r d i n g h o u s es T h es e ar e e s t a bli s h m e n t s ,
-
.
wh o s e r e g ul a ti o n s a d m it o f s p e n d i n g o n ly a s h o r t ti m e a t m ea l s
— a c i r c u m s t a n c e whic h c o m p o r t s wi t h th e c o n v e n i e n c e a n d
w i s h e s o f p er s o n s w h o a r e e n g a g e d i n a ctiv e pu r s uits T h e i r
“
i n m a te s a r e c a ll e d to ge th e r a t th e s o un d o f th e b ell , a n d a fte r
a r e p a s t o f a fe w m i n u te s r e ti r e t o th ei r s e v e r a l o cc u p a ti o n s .
A n E n gli s h m a n l a t e ly vi s i ti n g thi s c o un t r y , fo u n d th e p r a ctic e

s o di ffe r e n t fr o m th a t o f h i s o wn c o u n t r y , r e m a r k s u p o n it a s
fo ll o w s .
“ T h e A m e r i c a n i n n , whi le i t p r o vi d e s b o u n ti fully
fo r p e r i o d ic a l h u n ge r , h a s n o c o m p a s s i o n fo r a di s o r d er ly a p e .
p etite T h er e is o n e h o ur , o n e t a bl e , o n e m e a l , o n e s um m o n s
.
a n d i f y o u a r e r e a d y , y o u m a y far e v e r y w e ll i f y o u m i s s th e
o pp o r t un ity , y o u m ay di e s t t h e c o n s e qu e n ce s a s y o u c a n .
It w a s i n te r e s ti n g t o s e e o w th e A m e r ic a n with h is l o v e o f
fr e e d o m , s u b m itte d t o th e s e r e s t r a i n t s w h il e J o h n B ull i n s i s t s
'
,
o n n a m i n g h i s o w n di n n e r a t h is o w n t a bl e a t h i s o w n ti m e
, , ,
a n d i n h is o w n r o o m He h a s c er t a i nly m o r e i n d e p e n d e n c e
.
i n h i s h a bi ts i f n o t in h is op i n i on s , th an h i s t r a n s a tl a n tic
,
b r e th r e n ” .
T h e ch a r a ct er o f th e p eo pl e i n th e S ou th er n S t a t es is in m a ,
n y r e s p e ct s , lik e th a t which r un s th r o u gh t h e U n i o n i n o th e r
r es p e ct s i t i s m o difi e d by v a r i o u s c au s es T h e p r i n cip a l c aus e
.
,
by which ch a r a c ter i s m o d i fi e d i n th e S o ut h , is s l a v er y T h a t .
it is u n p r o piti o u s i n its i nfl ue n c e , b o th o n th e m as ter a n d s l a v e,

m u s t b e a ck n o wl e d g e d o n a ll h an d s W e r e th e s y s t e m o f d o
.
m e s tic s e r vit ud e i n t h e S o u th er n S t a t e s a m a tt e r o f ch o ic e o n
th e i r p a r t, a n d n o t o f i n h e r it a n c e , li ttl e e xc u s e o r j u s tific a ti o n
c o ul d b e o ffer e d , fo r s uffe r i n g s o e vil a n i nfl u en c e t o o p e r a t e o n
th e o w n er s o f s l a v es , a n d o n t h e s l a v e s th e m s e lves A s it i s , .
t h e s y s t e m m a y p er h a p s , i n ti m e , b e th r o w n o ff— t h o u gh in t h e
p r e s e n t c o n d iti o n o f th e s l a v e , a n d with o ut a p ar tic u l a r tr a i n
i n g fo r th e e nj o y m e n t o f fr ee d o m , it w o u l d p er h a p s b e n eith er
r igh t n o r p r u d e n t, t o c o m m it h i m t o h is o w n p u pil age a n d c a r e .
T h e S o u th e r n p eo pl e ar e fon d of s oci et y T h o u gh th ey l iv e
.
m u c h l e s s c o m p a ctly th an p e o pl e a t th e N o r th th ey p r o b ab ly ,
vi s it e a c h o t h e r fa r m o r e th a n th e l a tt er d o T h e i r a cqu a i n t .
a u c e s a r e e x t e n s iv e , a n d th e cl a i m s o f r e l a ti o n s hip o r a ffi n ity
a r e a ll o w e d t o th e gr e a t e s t d e g r e e T h ei r h o s pit ality is e v e ry
.
wh er e c e l e b r a te d , a n d th e m o r e fr e ely th e i r g ues t p a r t a k e s o f
th ei r b o u n ti e s th e mo r e h e i s w e lc o m e
,
.
T h e p e o pl e o f t h e S o u th h a v e m o r e h aughti n e s s , m o r e
'
c o ur te s y , a n d a high e r e s ti m a ti o n o f er s o n al d ignity th a n
”
th o s e o f th e N o r th P r id e i s th e n a tur aF
,
. c o n s e q u e n c e o f s up e
r i o r ity o f s t a ti o n , th o u gh it i s ge n e r a lly i n c o m p a tibl e with m e a n
n es s . A pl a n te r w oul d b e m o r e a p t to d o wh a t h e w o u ld b e
s or r y fo r , th a n w h at h e w o u ld b e a s h a m e d o f A s li ght w o u n d .
o f p r id e i s m o r e s t ri c t ly ave ng e d , th a n a g r e a t er i nj ur y t o p r o p
er ty a n d a l a ck o f c ourtes y is , p er h a p s , a s much r e p r o b ate d ,
U NI VER S A L T R A VELLE R . 25
WE S T E R N S TAT ES .
as a b r e a c h o f m o r a ls D ue lli n g is a n a tu r a l gr o wth o f s u ch a
.
s t a t e , a n d th o u gh it is n o t fr e q u e n t, i t is b u t to o w e ll e s t a bli s h e d
by c u s to m ” .
I n r e s p e ct t o c h a r a ct e r , th e i n h a bit a n t s o f th e Wes t er n S t a t es
h a ve a fe w p e c uli a r iti e s I n i ts g e n e r a l fe a tu r e s , it r es e m bl es
.
t h e t r a it s w h ic h ar e fo un d i n N e w E n gla n d a n d t h e o u th e r n S
S t a tes , wh e n c e m u c h o f th e i r p o p ul a ti o n h a s b e e n d e r ive d In .
th e n o r th e r n p o r ti o n, i n cl u di n g p a r tic u l a r ly hi o , th e N e w O
E n gl a n d ch a r a c te r p r e d o m i n a te s I n th e s o u th e r n p o r ti o n ,
.
'
t h e s o u th e r n ch a r a cte r , m o r e e s p e ci a lly th a t o f V ir n i a , p r e
v a il s K e n tu cky , th e l e a d i n g s t a te i n th a t s e cti o n 0 th e gr e a t
.
We s t er n V a lle y , w a s s ettl e d p r i n cip a lly fr o m Vi r gi n i a ; whil e

O h i o , th e l e a d i n g s t a t e i n t h e n o r th er n s e cti o n , r e c e iv ed i ts
e a r ly p o p u l a ti o n fr o m N e w E n gl a n d A n d t h e c h a r a ct e r o f th e
.
m as s o f th e i n h a b it an t s o f t h e W e s t e r n ta t e s , m a y b e d eS
s c r i b e d as a c o m p o u n d i n a g r e a t m e a s u r e o f th e N e w E n gl a n d
a n d Vi r gi n i a c h a r a ct e r It is a ch a r a c te r m o d ifi e d by th e p e
.
c u li a r ci r c u m s t a n c es i n whic h t h e p e o pl e o f t h e W es t a r e
fo u nd , e xp e n d i n g th e i r e n e r gi e s in th e s ettl e m e n t o f a n e w
c o u n t r y , c o n te n d i n g with th e e vil s a n d d a n ger s i n cid e n t t o th e
c o n v e r s i o n o f a wil d e r n e s s i n to a fr uit ful fi e ld , a n d e n ga ge d in
e s t a bli s hi n g t h e a r ts o f civiliz e d li fe a n d i n re a r i n g c h ur ch e s
,
a n d s e m i n ar i es o f l e a r n i n i n pl c wh n n e b e fo re e xi s t
g, a e s e r e o
ed . C h a r a c t e r , u n d e r s u c h c i r c u m s t a n c e s , is m a r k e d b y a
h a r d ih o o d , a fi r m n e s s , a fr ee d o m , a n i n d e p e n d e n c e , a n d p r o b
a b ly b y a ge n e r o s i ty u n k n o w n t o p e o pl e liv in i n g r e a t er e a s e
, g
n d u n d e r e s t a b li s h e d i n s titu ti o n s .
T h e m o d es of d r es s d o n o t v a r y gr e a tly i n t h e di ffe r e n t s e c
S
ti o n s o f t h e U nite d t a te s , a n d m a y t h e r e fo r e b e s p o k e n o f a s a
wh o le . T h es e a r e e s s e n ti a l l y E u r o p e a n , m o r e e s p e ci a lly
E n gli s h a n d F r e n c h I n th e l a r ge r ci ti es o f t h e U n i o n, m o r e
.
e x p e n s i ve m o d es o f d r e s s a r e a d o pt ed th a n e l s e wh er e , i n th e
c o u n tr y .T h ey are r ic h e r a n d m o r e fa s hi o n a bl e , a n d a r e i n
t r o d u c e d g e n e r a l ly fr o m L o n d o n a n d P a r i s I n th e s o u th , t h e
.
m a t er i a l s o f d r e s s a r e s o m e wh a t light er th a n a t t h e n o r t h o r
e ast . S
T h e G e r m a n s o f th e M id dl e ta te s h a v e s o m e p e c uli a r i
t i es a s t o th e i r cl o thi n g, a n d o ft e n w e a r b r o a d h a t s a n d p u r pl e
“
I n P h il a d e lphi a , th e r e i s th e d r a b b o n ne t, a nd t h e
b r ee c h e s .
d r a b g o w n , a n d t h e fr ill , a n d t h e n e ck e r chi e f, a n d a p r o n to
c or r es p on d a ll v e r y go o d a n d i n a c e r t a i n a c c e pt a ti o n v er y
, ,
h a n d s o m e b ut th er e ar e n o fe a th er s , n o fi o u n c e s , n o g a ud y
c o l o r s , a n d fi n e r y , e ith e r g e ntee l o r s h a bby —Y o u s e l d o m s e e .
t h e Q ua k er d r es s i n thi s t o w n ; b u t it h a s e vi d e n tly q ua lifi e d

a ll y o u d o s e e It h a s a h a ppy m e di u m b e tw e e n w h a t y o u
.
w o uld fi n d i n Q u a k e r l i fe , a n d fa s hi o n a bl e li fe ; it b o r r o w s
t a s te fr o m t h e o e , a n d fe m i n i n e n ic e ty fr o m t h e o t h e r
n “ .
I n t h e w es t , t h e l a r ge b o d y o f th e p e o pl e , w h o ar e a gr i c u ltur
t s t s , a r e cl o th e d i n
gar m e n t s o f th e i r o w n m a n u fa ctu r e , w hic h
a r e l i ttl e c o n fo r m e d to e l e g a n c e o r fas hi o n o m e o f th e r e
. S
V i si t to th e A meri can C h ur ch es .
3
26 U NIVER S A L T R A VELLE R .
U N IT E D S T AT ES .
m o te t r a pp e r s o r h u n t e r s a r e d r e s s e d p ar tly i n fur s a n d y o u
m e e t fr e gue n tly with t h e h un ti n g s hi r t o r fr o ck .
I n ge n e r a l , t h e p eo pl e o f th e U n ite d S t a tes a r e b e tter cl o th e d

th a n th e p e o pl e o f a n y oth er c o un t r y A l m o s t a ll a r e c o m .
fo r t ab ly cl a d I n m o s t p ar ts o f th e c o u n t
. b e fo r e t h e m a nu
fa ct ur e s o f c o tt o n a n d w o o l , th e fa m ili es 0 fa r m e r s fa b r ic a t e d
th e i r o w n ga r m e n ts T h e h a n d c ar d a n d S pi n n i n g wh e e l w e r e
.
-
foun d i n a l m o s t e v e r y h a bi t a ti o n B ut th e s e h a v e n o w yi e l d
.
e d t o m a ch i n er y , which h a s gr e a tly c h e a p e n e d a n d m u l t ipli e d

a l m o s t e ver y s p e ci es o f cl o thi n g w o r n by t h e i n h a bit a n ts .
H a ts h a v e b ee n a n d s till a r e ge n er a lly w o r n b u t c a p s o f cl o th ,
o r fu r h a v e b ee n e xt e n s iv e ly u s e d o f l a te y e a r s A fe w c o ck .
e d h a t s a r e e xt a n t ,
th o u gh w o r n by a r a c e o f m e n th a t will
s o o n d i s a pp e a r fo r e ve r . I n w i n t er fur i s w o r n fo r t r i m m i n g s
, ,
a n d s o m e ti m e s fo r d r e s s T h e d r es s o f th e fe m a l e s e v e n in
.
r e m o t e vill a ge s i s n e a t a n d s h o w y S tr a w h a ts a r e p r i n cip al
.
ly w o r n , a n d th e y a r e m a d e i n a l m o s t e v e r y t o w n a n d i n a ,
v a r i e ty o f t a s t e fu l p a tte r n s .
T h er e i s li tt l e u n ifo r m i ty i n th e d w elli n gs o f a p e o pl e i n h ab
iti n g s o wi d e ly a n e xte n d e d c o u n tr y , a n d livi n g u n d e r cli m a te s
a n d ci r c u m s t a n c es s o v a r i o u s o r d i ss i m il a r T h e m o de o f .
,
b u ildi n i s a cc o m m o d a t e d v e r y m u ch t o th ei r e xt e r n a l c o n d i
ti o n. n ge n e r a l , el e a n c e
g ,
p r o p o r ti o n ,
o r t as t e ,
i s n o t m u c h
c o n s u l te d , es p e ci a lly i n th e l e s s s e ttl e d p a r t s o f t h e c o u n t r y .
R e fer e n c e i s h a d t o c o n v e n i e n c e a n d c o m fo r t, th o ugh n o t i n
e v er y i n s t a n c e , e v e n t o th e s e , i n t h e a b s e n c e o f b e a u ty o r
s y m m e tr y .I n ge n era l, a l s o , t h e dw e lli n gs o f t h e p eo pl e o f t h e
U n i te d S
t ate s , a r e c o m p o s e d o f l e s s s ub s t a n ti a l m a ter i a l s ,
th a n is th e c a s e with t h o s e o f s o m e E u r o p e a n c o u n tr i e s T h e y .
a r e c o n s t r u cte d c o m m o n ly o f b o a r d s o r l o g s s t o n e o r b r ic k
n o t b e i n g th e c o m m o n m a t e r i a l , e x c e p t i n ci ti e s B u t th o u gh .
t h e h o u s e s o f o u r citiz e n s , s p e a ki n g o f t h e m i n a m a s s , a r e n o t
d i s ti n gu i s h e d b y b e a u ty o r e l e ga n c e , y e t m a n y o f th e m i n th e
c o un tr y , a s w e ll a s ci ty , a r e v e r y n e at a n d h a n d s o m e s tru c
t u r e s I n d ivi d u a l h ab i t a ti o n s th e r e a r e , i n fi n e a n d i m p o s i n g
.
s it ua ti o n s , th a t a d d t o th e ch a r m s o f o u r n at ur a l s c e n e r y .
A n d th e s e r e s i d e n c e s o f gen tl e m e n , p a r tic u l a r ly m e r c h a n t s ,
p r o fe s s i o n a l m e n , h e a d m a nu fa ctur e r s , a n d w e a l th y fa r m e r s ,
a r e m u lti p lyi n g e v er y d a y a m o n g u s I n t h e vi c m ity o f citi e s
. ,
th e y a r e b e c o m i n g v e r y n u m er o u s , a n d i n dic a t e th e gr e a t i h
c r e a s e o f t a s t e, w e a lth , a n d l u xu r y T h e gr ea te r p r o p o r ti o n
.
o f g o o d dw e lli n gs i n t h e c o un t r y , a r e gr o u p e d t o ge t h er in v il
l a ge s , wh er e , wit h th e i r o u t h o u s e s , a n d fr o n t a n d g a r d e n fe n
-
c e s , th ey m a k e a n e a t a n d p r e t ty a pp e a r a n c e I n d ee d, n o c o l
.
‘
le cti o n o f h o u s e s in a n y c o u n t r y , a r e s a i d to s tr ik e t h e e y e
wi t h g r e a te r e ffe ct, a s o bj e cts o f b e a u ty , th a n m a n y A m e r ic a n
vill a ge s , a r tic ul a r ly th o s e in N e w E n gl a n d , a n d th e M iddl e
S t a te s . h e b r ight, white c o lo r o f th e h o us e s , thickly s e t wi th
wi n d o ws , whic h a r e a d o r n e d with gr e e n V e n eti a n bli n d s , t o
e th e r w ith th e i r p a i nte d a pp en d a g es, gen er a lly o f th e s a m e
g
U NI V E R S A L T R A VE LLE R . 27
M ANN E R OF BU ILD I NG .
l
c o or, b e au ti fully c o n tr a s t in th e s um m e r with th e gr e en o f
, ,
th e i r b r o a d a n d qu i e t s tr e e t s fill e d with s h a d e tr e e s , a n d o f
,
th e i r g a rd e ns a nd fi e ld s e n a m ell e d with fl o w e r s , o r r ic h with
th e pl a n ts a n d fr ui ts o f t h e s e a s o n E v e n i n th e c o un tr y th e
.
,
la r g e u n fi n i s h e d , u n c o l o r e d, b a r n lik e d we lli n g , is d i s a pp e a r
,
-
in g a n d i ts pla c e is s u ppli e d wi th th e n ea t h al f h o u s e, whic h i s

,
-
e m b e lli s h e d , n o t u n lik e th e city o r vill a ge res id e n c e I n ge n .
e r a l th er e i s a g r e a t i mp ro v e m e n t th r o u gh o u t t h e U n i o n , th o u gh
,
w e h a v e by n o m e a ns a tt a i ne d t o th e b e a u ty , n e a tn e s s , c o m fo r t,
a n d d u r a bility whic h di s ti n g ui s h t h e h a bi t a ti o n s o f th e b e tt e r
c l as s e s o f E n gli s h m e n T h e r e i s far l es s gr o u n d fo r th e r e
.
m a r k o f J e ffe r s o n n o w th an i n h is o w n d ay w h e n h e s a id , i n
, ,
r e fe r e n ce h o w e v e r t o a s i n gl e s t a t e
“ th a t th e ge n iu s o f a r chi
,
t e ctu r e s e e m s to h a v e s h e d its m a l e d icti o n o v er th e l a n d ” .
T h a t whic h is p e c uli a r o r s tr iki n g in th e d we lli ngs in th e

s e ve r a l g r a n d divi s i o n s o f t h e c o u n tr y m a y b e b r i e fly r e m a r k ,
e d u p on I n N ew E n g l a nd th e h o u s e s a r e c hi e fly o f w o o d,
.
“
,
a n d a r e fre q u e n tly l e s s s h a d e d th a n th e y s h o u l d b e Th e .
b a r n s ar e lar ge , as n o t o nly a ll th e a n i m a l s a r e s h e lter e d b ut ,
t h e h ay a nd gr a i n a r e h o u s e d , whic h in m a n y c o u n tr i e s a r e ,
s t a c k e d i n t h e o p e n a ir H er e a nd the r e , by th e s id e o f th e
.
o l d e r h o u s es m a y b e s ee n a w e ll s w ee p a p r i m itiv e c o n tr i
,
-
,
v a n c e to d r a w up w a ter by a p o l e whic h is a tt a ch e d to a b e a m , ,
m o vi n g u p a n d d o w n o n a n a xl e It is a s o r t o f l e ver ; th e
.
b u ck e t a n d b e a m ar e s o ne a r ly b a la n c e d , th a t a littl e a id fr o m
th e h a n d i s s u ffi ci e n t fo r t h e m a c hi n e r y T h e vill a ge s ar e .
g e n er a lly n e a tly b u ilt,

a n d s o m e o f th e m a r e t h e m o s t b e a u ti
ful i n t h e w o r ld T h e ch ur c h i s a p r o m i n e n t o bj e c t i n a N e w
.
E n gl an d vill a g e ; it h as ge ne r a lly a be ll a nd a s pi r e with a ,

n o r a c o m m o n i n fr o n t
” w
g r ee T h e h o u s e
. s o f o r s hip a r e
g en er a lly c o ns tr u cte d i n a go o d s tyle , an d o cc a s i o n a lly o f d u
r a bl e m a te r i a ls a s b r ick o r s to ne
’
,
“
.
I n s o m e o f th e o ld e r to w ns i n th e M i dd l e S ta t es , th er e a r e
m an y a n ci en t h o u s e s o f th e F l e m i s h m o d e l , til e d , with a bl es
o n t h e s t r e e t a n d h u ge i r o n w e a th er c o ck s o n th e to p
, n th e .
wes te r n p a r t o f N e w Y o r k th e v ill a g es a re b uilt in a n e xc e e d

,
i ngly n e a t m a nne r , a n d th e h o u ses a r e m u c h lik e a c itiz e n s ’
b o x n e ar L o n d o n , th o u gh th ey h a v e m o r e fr es h n e s s o f a pp e ar
a nce T h ey a r e o f w o o d a nd p a i n t e d w h ite , a n d th e y h a v e
.
,
r ee n wi n d o w bli n d s , a nd o fte n v e r a n d as I n m a n y p a r ts , th e .
0g h o u e s r e m a i n T h ey a r e r u d e dw e lli n gs , in whic h t h e
s .
c r a ck s a r e fill e d with m ud a n d th e chi m n ey s a r e o n th e o ut

,
s id e I n M a r yl a n d a n d P e n n s ylv a n i a a r e m a n y s t o n e h o us e s
.
a n d b a r n s ; th e l a tte r a re o ft e n o f v a s t s iz e T h e s m a ll er v il .
l a ges i n th es e S t a te s a r e m a n y o f the m p o o r ly b u ilt o f s qu a r e d

'
l o gs o r with w o o d e n fr a m es , fil l e d in with b r ick , o r s to n e a nd

,
m o r tar M a n y o f th e s e a r e s u c h a s m i ght b e m e t with i n I r e
.
l a n d o r G er m a n y th e n a tiv e c o u n tr i e s o f th e i n h a b i ta n ts w h o
,
o cc up y th e m T h e citi es a n d l ar g e t o w n s i n t h e M i d dl e S t a t es
.
h a v e a g o o d s tyl e o f b uil d i n g I n N e w Y o r k , th e h o us es a re
.
o f b r ick a n d in a n ea t a n d s ub s t a n ti a l s t l e
, y ; i n P hila
U N IT E D S T AT ES .
d elp hi a , andp e r h a p s i n B a lti m o r e , th e r e i s m or e e e l g an c e , a n d

r e a e t
r s i m plici ty
”
g .
I n th e S ou th er n S t a t es , th e m a n n e r o f b u ildi n g is l es s s ub
s ta n ti a l, th a n i n t h e M i d d l e o r N o r th er n ta t es F e w h o us e s S .
a r e o f b r ick , a n d th e l o w c o u n tr y i s with o u t s t o n es T h o s e ih .
h a bi te d by th e pl a n ter s h a v e m uc h u n i fo r m ity . T h ey a r e o f
o n e o r t w o s t o r i e s , a n d h a v e a v e r a n d a in fr o n t, a n d c h i m n ey s
a t t h e e n d , o n t h e o u t s id e T h e kitch e n a n d o t h er o ffi c es a r e
.
in s e p a r a t e b u il d i n g s , in th e r e a r T h e n e r o h o us e s h a v e
.
c hi m n e y s , a n d t wo r o o m s , a n d th e p oo r es t o th em a r e b etter
th a n th e c abi n s i n I r e l a n d , o r th e igh l a n d s o f c o tl a n d H S .
T h e r e a r e al s o i n so m e p a r t s , m a n y l o g h o us es , which a r e c o m -
”
m o n with b o th whit es a n d b l a ck s T h e r e s i d e n c e s o f th e
.
w e a lthy a r e o fte n i n go o d t a s te a n d c o m m o d i o u s , b ut s e ld o m
w ith a n y p r e t e n s i o n s t o ele g a n c e T h e y a r e ge n er a lly pl a c e d
.
a t a c o n s i d e r a bl e di s t a n c e fr o m t h e p u blic r o a d s , a n d a r e a p
p r o a c h e d t h r o ugh g a t e s , whic h o p e n i n t o a l a n e r u n n i n g m o r e
o r l e s s ci r c u it o u s ly up to t h e d w e lli n g T h ey a r e e m b o s o m e d
.
w ith tr e es , a n d cl u s te r i n g n e a r th e m o ft e n a r e th e s m a ll dwe ll
i n gs o f th e n e g r o e s T h e l a n d s a r o u n d th e m a r e c o m m o nl y
.
cl e a r e d t o a c o n s i d er a bl e e x t e n t, c o n s i s ti n g o f l a r g e fi e l d s d e
v o t e d t o th e c u ltiv a ti o n o f th e s t a pl e s o f th e o uth A ll a r o un d S .
th o s e o p e n pl a c e s is a n u nb r o ke n wil d er n es s .
I n th e Wes t, w e s e e o c c a s i o n a lly s t r u c tu r es lik e th o s e o f th e

E a s t— s o m e t o w n s a r e e v e n b u ilt o f b r ic k, b ut g e n er a lly th er e
is v er y littl e go o d a r c hit e ct ur e T h o u gh t h e vill a ge s o ften
.
l o o k w e ll , y o u m a y s e e in m o s t o f th e m , th e l o g h o us es o f th e -
fi r s t s e ttl er s “. R e m o te fr o m t o w n s , th e lo g h o u s e i s s till th e
-
-
m o s t c o m m o n b u il d i n g It r e qu i r es littl e s kill to b uild o n e , fo r

.
t h e r e a r e n e i th e r p ill a r s fo r o r n a m e n t, n o r p os ts fo r s u pp o r t .
T h e h o u se i s m a de with u n h e w n tr u n k s l a id u p o n o n e a n o th e r ,
a n d pl a s te r e d b e tw e e n t h e c r e vic es T h e c hi m n e y s ar e o n
.
th e o u t s i d e , c o m p o s e d o f cl a y , a n d s u p p o r te d by wick e r w o r k -
.
T h e h o us es a r e s e l d o m s o s p a ci o u s t h a t th e c h a m b e r , p ar l o r ,
a n d kitc h e n , a r e in di ffer e n t a p a r t m e n ts , a n d th e pig s a n d p o u l ~
t ry h a v e s o m e ti m e s a fr e e r a n ge T h e y a r e , h o w e v er , ch ea p
.
a n d c o m fo r t a bl e T h e y a r e c o v e r e d with b ar k o r l o n g s plit
.
hi n gl e s ”
s .
The a r ch i t ectur e o f S
th e U n it e d t a t e s , a s e xhi b it ed in th e
p ublic b u ildi n gs , is r e s p e ct a b l e It i s gen er a lly c h a r a ct er iz e d
.
by n e a tn e ss a n d t a s t e , —with s i m plicity a n d m o d erat e o r n a ‘
m en t . T h e r e a r e s o m e fi n e b u ildi n g s , b ut th e n u m b e r is s m a ll
c o m p a re d wi t h wh a t it i s in E n l a n d , F r a n c e , G er m a n y , o r I t a
T h e m o r e m a g n ific e n t p u lic s tr u ctu r e s in th o se c o u n
tr ie s , fi n d n o p a r a ll e l i n t h e U n it e d t a tes
. S
O ur r e c e n t o r igi n, .
w a n t o f m e a n s , a n d r e p ub lic a n s i m plicity , with o th er c au s es ,

'
h a v e b ee n u n fa v o r a b l e to th e er e cti o n o f m a n y a r c h ite c tu r a l
m o n u m e n ts . S
till , th e r e a r e a fe w i n m o s t p o r ti o n s o f th e
c o u n t r y , a n d t h e t a s te fo r th em s e e m s to b e fa s t i n c r e a s i n g .
T h e b a n k s , s p e a ki n g o f th e m a s a cl as s , ar e p er h a p s th e b e s t
ed ific es in th e U n it e d S
t a te s T h ey ar e o ften b ui lt fr o m G r e
.
30 UN IVER S A L T R A VE L L E R .
ed ; an d th e l a em pty s p a c e
r ge p r o p o r ti o n s o f th e r o o m and
v e a d i m i n u tiv e n e s s an d 1 n s 1 gn 1 fic a n c e t o th e p er s o n s p r es e n t
'
h e S e n a t e Ch a m be r i s o f fa r l e s s s iz e , a n d o f n o p r e te n s i o n s
b ut it i s w e ll a d a pt e d t o its u s es , a n d th er e fo r e giv es th e e y e
”
s a ti s fa cti o n .
Th e a bu n d a n ce a n d va r i ety o f n i te d f ar ti c l es o d i et i n t he U
S t a t e s a r e m a t te r s o f c o m m o n r e m ar k
,
T r a v e ll e r s fr o m .
a b r o a d h a v e n o tic e d t h e fa ct a n d a ll h a v e p r o n o u n c e d t h i s ,
c o un tr y a l a n d o f p l e n ty I n n o c o un tr y is th e r e m o r e o r b e t .
te r foo d , o r s u ch a v a s t p r o p o r ti o n o f p e o pl e th a t c a n c o m m a n d
its v a r i e ti es T h e c u li n a r y a r t with s o m e n a ti o n s m a y h a v e a t
.
‘
t a in e d t o gr e at er pe r fe cti o n t h a n wit h u s ; y et A m e r ic a n s a r e
n o t p e c uli ar ly d e fici e n t e v e n h e r e a n d i n m a n y p r iv a t e fa m ili e s , ,
a s w e ll a s p ub lic h o u s e s a r t i c l e s fo r t h e t a b l e a r e p r e p a r e d a n d
,
s e r v e d u p with e v e r y r e qu i s it e a tte n ti o n T h e e m pl o y m en t o f .
E ur o p e a n c o o k s is n o t u n c o m m o n i n o u r la r e pl a c e s I n
m o s t o th e r c o u n tr i e s e s p e ci a lly o f th e O ld W o r l ga n i m a l fo o d
.
,
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is a l ux u r y s el d o m e nj o y e d b y th e p o o r
,
I n thi s c o u n tr y fe w .
,
a r e i n s o s t r a i t e n e d ci r c u m s t a n c e s th a t t h ey c a n n o t a ff o r d it e v ,
e r y d ay A n d t h e n in ti m e s o f s c a r city , th r o u gh fa il u r e o f
.
, ,
t h e c r o p s o r a n y s in l e c r o p o r i n ti m e s o f s ta gn a ti o n o f b us i
, ,
n es s i n c r e d ib l e h a r s hi p s a n d s u ffe r i n gs a r e e xp e r i e n c e d b y
,
t h e n e e d y E ur o p e a n : s ta r v a ti o n i n m a n y i n s t a n c e s lite r a lly
e n s ues He r e s u c h a n o cc ur r e n c e i s s c a r c e ly e v er if ev e r
.
, , ,
h e a r d o f i n i n d ivi d u a l e xp e r i e n c e
,
T h e v a r i e ty o f s o il a n d .
,
cli m a te a n d s it u a ti o n i n o u r c o u n tr y is s o gr e a t t h a t w e a r e
, , ,
h a r d ly to l o o k fo r a fa il ur e o f a ny s i n gl e c r o p th r o u gh o u t t h e ,
c o u n t r y a n d i n a n y c o n s i d e r a b l e p a r t o f it
,
.
T h e h a b i ts o f o u r c o un t r y a ll o w th e e a t i n g o f a n i m a l fo o d ,
e n e r a lly twic e i f n o t th r e e t i m e s a d ay O ur b r e a k fa s t s a r e
g , ,
.
m u c h r ic h e r a n d m o r e s u b s ta n ti a l t h a n th o s e o f th e E n gli s h
p e o pl e w e m a k e l e s s a cc o u nt o f d i n n e r o r d i n a r ily t h a n
.
, ,
t h e y a n d o ur s u p p e r s a r e v a r i o us : wi t h s o m e cl a s se s t h e y a r e
, ,
a lig h t c o n c er n — wi th o th er s es p e c i a lly th e l ab o r i n g cl a s s e s , ,
t h ey c o n s i s t o f a b u n d a n c e o f s o li d fo o d .
I n N ew E n g l a n d i n th e c o u n t r y t o w n s b r e a k fa s t i s u s u a lly
, ,
“
m a d e a t a n e a r ly h o ur a n d o fte n a t s u n r i s e o r b e fo r e ,
In a .
fa r m er s fa m ily it c o n s i s t s o f littl e l es s t h a n h a m b e e f, s a u
’
, ,
s a ges ,
p o r k b r e a d b u tter b o il e d p o t a t o es pi e s c o ffe e, a n d
, , , , ,
ci d er T h e us e o f c o ffe e in th e m o r n i n g a n d o f te a a t n i ght,
.
i s a l m o s t u n iv e r s a l A t h o tel s a n d b o a r d i n g h o u s e s b r ea k fa s t
.
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i s o f b e e f m u tt o n h a m b r o il e d chic ke n s s a u s a ges , t r ip e v a
, , , , ,
r i o ns ki n d s o f fi s h t o n gue b r e a d b u tte r c o ffe e a n d ci d e r

, , , , ,
.
T h e m os t u s u a l b r e a d i n ci ti es i s m a d e o f wh e a t flo ur ; in th e -
c o u n tr y th e c o m m o n b r e a d i s m a d e o f r y e o r o f a m ixtur e o f ,
r y e an d I n di a n c o r n
” O f t h e fl o ur o r m e a l o f t h e l at te r an
.
,
a r t icl e o f fo o d i s m a d e c a ll e d m u s h , o r h a s ty p u d d i n g which
-
, ,
i s a fa v o r ite d i s h wi th m o s t o f th e p e o pl e a n d m o s t c o m m o n ly ,
p r e p a r e d o n S a t ur d a y e v e n i n It i s e a te n o ft en i n th a t fo r m
w ith m ilk o r w h e n fr i ed a fter g
.
. a v in g b een c o o l e d T h e b o il e d .
'
U NIVER S A L T R A VELLER . 31
F OO D .
— DRI N K S .
In di a n p u d di n g a l s o i s a fa v o r ite d i s h in th e N e w E n gl a n d
, ,
c o u n tr y t o w ns e s p e ci ally with t h e m o r e a n ci e n t cl a s s o f p e o pl e
,
.
I n t h e M i dd l e S t a t es t h er e a r e a r ti cl e s o f fo o d u s e d wh ic h
, ,
ar e r a r e ly m e t wi t h i n N e w E n gl a n d e xc e pt i n ci ti es T hi s i s ,
.
t h e c as e p a r tic u l a r ly with t h e s w ee t p o t a t o which i s m u c h ,
u s e d i n N e w J er s ey a n d i n t h e S t a t e s s o u t h o f it It i s c o o k e d .
v a r i o u s ly th o u gh it i s b e s t b o il e d o r r o a s t e d
,
T h e b u ckwh e a t .
c a k e is a d elici o u s a r ticl e o f fa r e th o u gh i t i s n o t p e c uli a r t o ,

a n y o n e s e cti o n o f c o u n tr y Hom i n y w h ich i s m a d e o f c o a r s e
.
,
I n d i a n m e a l by b o ili n g it t o a c o n s i s te n cy , i s m u c h u s e d , i n
t h e s o u t h e r n p o r ti o n o f th e M id d l e S t a t es S h a d ar e a c o m .
m o n a r ticl e o f d i e t whic h ar e c a u gh t i n a b u n d a n c e a n d o f a n
,
e xc e ll e n t q u a li t y in t h o s e S t a t e s .
I n t h e S o u th er n S t a t es t h e fo o d di ffe r s c o n s i d e r a bl y fr o m
wh a t it is a t t h e N o r t h I n the fo r m e r th e r e a r e fe w o f t h e
.
g a r d e n v e g e t a b l e s a n d t h e I r i s,
h p o t a t o i s n o t g e n e r a lly r a i s e d .
Ric e is m u c h u s e d c hi e fly b o il e d ; i t i s o fte n e a t e n a s b r e a d
,
.
H o m i ny is fo un d a t a ll t a b l es Ho e c a k e whic h is th e j o h n n y .
-
c a k e o f N e w E n gl a n d a n d a s h p o n e which is a c o ar s e c a k e
, ,
b a k e d u n d er t h e a s h e s a r e i n c o m m o n u s e a s b r e a d Ha m is
,
.
a g e n er a l ar ticl e o f fo o d a n d th e tr a v e ll e r will o fte n fi n d i t s e t

,
b e fo r e h im th r ee ti m e s a d a y I n Vi r gi n i a , it i s a s t a n d i n g d i s h .
,
a cc o m p a n i e d by g r e e n s I n L o u i s i a n a g u m bo a c o m p o u n d
.
, ,
s ou p ,
is m u ch u s e d , a n d a t N e w O r l e a n s , it is s o l d in t h e
s t r e e ts
” .
“T h e W t r
es e n S t a t es h a v e with t h e e xc e pti o n o f fi s h th e , ,
s a m e ki n d s o f fo o d th a t a r e c o m m o n i n t h e M id d l e S t a t e s a n d
,
s ev er a l m o r e T h er e is i n d e e d n o s c ar city o f fi s h i n th e r i v
.
er s b ut th ey a r e c o a r s e a n d lit tl e e s t ee m e d
, T h e t wo g r e at .
a r ticl e s o f fo o d a r e b a c o n a n d I n di a n c o r n H o m i ny a n d t h e .
j o h n n y c a k e will n e v e r fa il th e t r a v e ll e r e ith e r in th e s o uth o r

-
,
w e s t T h er e is g a m e in ab u n d a n c e a n d it is m u ch u s e d a s
.
,
fo o d . T h e s w e e t p o t a t o i s e a t e n a n d in m a n y p a r t s r ic e , ,
.
T h e r ic e is b o il e d h a r d a n d u s e d wi th g r a vy , a s p o t a t o e s a r e
,
i n N e w E n gl a n d C o ffe e a n d te a a r e a s m u c h c o n s u m e d a s
.
th ey a r e i n a ny p a r t o f th e c o u n tr y M a pl e a n d o th e r s u g a r s .
, ,
are c om m on T h e h o t el s a r e w e ll fur n i s h e d with s u b s t a n ti a l
.
fo o d , a n d a t di n n er b o th w hi s k ey a n d m ilk ar e pl a c ed u p o n
,
th e t a bl e ” .
Whi s k e y is th e m o s t c o m m o n o f th e di s till e d S pi r it s in u s e
in th e W e s t e r n a n d S o u th e r n S t a t e s a n d i n d e e d i n t h e M i d d l e , .
N e w E n gl a n d r um a p o i s o n di s till e d fr o m m o l a s s e s , is o r
,
r a th e r h a s b een th e b a n e o f t h e E a s t er n S t a t es T h e s am e is .
t r u e a l s o o f cid er b r a n dy , a s pi r ito us liq u o r m a d e by th e d is

-
tilla ti o n o f ci d e r P e a c h b r a n dy i s c o m m o n i n th e S o u th e r n
.
-
S t a tes W hil e e a c h s e cti o n h a s h a d its p ec u li a r o r fa vo r ite

.
h o m e m a n u fa ctu r e d s pi r its F r e n c h b r a n dy H o ll a n d gin a n d

-
, , ,
W e s t I n d i a r u m s h a v e b e e n m o r e o r le s s c o m m o n to t h e m a ll .
I n th e N e w E n gl a n d S t a te s a s w e ll a s s e v er a l o th e r s ci d e r is , ,
a p e v e r a e m u c h in u s e It is k e pt in b a r r el s a n d h o gs h e a d s
.
m th e c e l a r s o f far m e r s a n d s o m e o th e r cl as s e s o f citi z e n s .
It i s h o w e ve r b ut s lightly i n to xic a t i n g a n d s eld o m fo r m s o r

, , ,
p e r p etu a tes i n te m p er a te h ab its It is n e v e r th e l es s u s e d fa r to o .
lib er a lly to c o n s i s t with p e r fe ct s a fe ty to h e a lth o r m o r a ls .
M uch b e er u n h a ppily is d r a n k i n th e M i d d l e S t a t e s a n d t h e
, , ,
ti m e wa s wh e n t h e r e w a s s c a r c e ly a l a r ge to wn i n th o s e
,
S ta te s whic h h a d n o t o n e o r m o r e b r e we r i e s Ci d er b e er .
,
a n d p o r t e r , a r e i n c o n s i d e r a b l e u s e i n t h e S o u t h e r n a nd VV e s t
er n S t a t es T h e r ic h a t t h e S o u th b es t o w m u ch c a r e a n d e x
.
p e n s e u p o n th e i r wi ne s , whic h a r e chi e fly s h e r r y a n d M a d ei r a,

e xc e p t i n L o ui s i a n a wh e r e cl a r e t i s m o r e i n us e
,
.
I n a c o un t r y wh e r e liq u o r s a r e ch e a p a n d e v e r y fa ci l ity i s ,
e nj o y e d a lm o s t b e v e r y cl a s s t o c o m m a n d a ny q u a n t ity o f
i nto xic a ti n g d r i n th er e w o u ld n a t ur ally b e i n t e m p e r a n c e .
T h e h a bit s o f th e p e o pl e w er e a cc o r d i n gly b e c o m i n g e x tr e m e
ly viti a te d in r es p e c t t o t h e u s e o f i n e b r i a ti n g liq u o r s n o t
, ,
m a ny y e a r s a go T h e d a n g er t o o u r i n s tit uti o n s o ur li b er ti es
.
, ,
o u r m o r a l s o u r h e a lth a d o u r h a ppi n es s a s a p e o pl e b e c a m e
,n , ,
s o i m m i nent th a t th e pi e ty a n d p a tr i o ti s m o f t h e n a ti o n wer e
.
e xcit e d , a n d m e a s u r e s w e r e a d o p t e d b y d e g r e e s t o ch e ck i f ,
n o t e xt e r m i n a t e t h e e vil T h e d i s u s e o f a ll a r d e n t s pi r i ts a s a
,
.
d r i n k o n th e p a r t o f i n d ivi d u a l s a n d th e pl e d ge to a b s t a i n ,
th r o u gh p u blic as s o ci a ti o n s fo r thi s p u r p o s e b e ga n th e w o r k ,
o f a m e n d m e n t a n d it h a s o n e o n e v er s i n c e i n a c o n ti nu a l
, ,
ly i n c r e a s i n g r a ti o a n d i n c ud i n g in m a n y i n s t a n c es th e ab j u
‘
r a ti o n o f a ll i n eb r i a ti n g d r i n k s .
r a v elli n g , n o t o n ly i n thi s c o u n t r y , b u t i n
T h is i s th e f t er a o
m a ny o th e r s W h e th e r fo r i m p r o ve m en t, o r gr a tific a ti o n , it
.
h as i n c r e a s e d wi thi n a fe w y e ar s , fi fty o r a h u n d r e d fo l d ,
an d it is c o n ti n u a lly a u m e ntin g T h e n u m e r o us fa ciliti e s .
which h a v e b e e n c r e a t e d o r i n t e r c o u r s e n o t o n ly b e tw e e n o n e ,
p ar t o f a c o u n tr y a n d a n o th er b ut b e tw e e n o n e c o u n t r y a n d ,
o th e r c o u n t r i e s h a v e b e e n o n e c a us e d o ubtl e s s o f th e gr e a t , ,
i n c r e a s e o f tr a ve lli n g V a s t m ultit u d e s t h r o n g th e p ub lic c o n
.
v e y a n c e s i n t h e U n i te d S t a t e s T h e u s e o f p r iv a te v e hicl es
. ,
a n d p a r tic ul a r ly r i d i n g o n h o r s e b a ck fo r t h e p ur p o s e o f
m a ki n g e xt e n d e d j o u r n e y s , i s c o m p a r a t iv ely littl e k n o w n a t
p r e s e nt F e w c o u n tr i es h a ve s u c h fa ciliti e s fo r c h e a p a gr ee
.
,
ab l e a n d e X p e ditio u s t r a v e lli n g a s p o r ti o n s o f t h e U n it e d ,
,
S ta t e s a n d fe w p e o pl e h a v e a s tr o n ger d i s p o s iti o n t o a va il
,
t h e m s elv e s o f th e i r a d v a n t a g e s , i n t h i s r e s p e ct T h e ir n ob l e .
b a y s a n d l a r g e r iv er s i n d e e d a ll th e i r w a te r s o f s u ffi ci en t
,
d e pth a s w e ll a s th e o c e an it s e l f, a r e pli e d with n u m er o u s

,
s t e a m b o a ts , m a n y o f whic h a r e e l e g a n tly c o n s t r u ct e d , a n d
fur n i s h e d wi t h e v e r y a c c o m m o d a ti o n o r l u x u r y t h a t c a n h e
wi s h e d I n N e w E n gl a n d th e r o a d s a r e gen e r a lly exc elle n t

.
, ,
an d a r e th r o n g e d with s t a g e c o a ch e s m o s t o f w h ich a r e g o o d ,
.
I n m an y p a r ts o f t h e M i d d l e S t a t e s t h e r o a d s a r e fi n e f o r s t a
g e
c o a ch e s I n o th er p a r ts h o w e ver th ey a r e b a d a n d k e pt i n
.
, , ,
a v er y i n d i ffe r e n t s t a t e o f r e p a i r I n t h e S o u th e r n S t a t.es th e r e
i s littl e t r a v elli n g fo r pl e as u r e It i s chi e fly th e n ec e s s mes o f

.
U NIVE R S A L T R A VE LLE R . 33
M OD ES OF TR AV LLI NG
E .
h ea lth a n d b u s i n e s s th a t i n d u c e th e p e o pl e th er e to l e a v e th ei r
h o m es N e ith er th e r o a d s v e hicl es n o r i n n s a r e g o o d T h e
.
, ,
.
r o a d s a r e o ft e n a lt e r n a ti o n s o f s a n d a n d s w a m p fr e q u e n tly
l o gs l a id a c r o s s s er v e th e p u r p o s e o f t er r a fi r m a a n d t h e
m o ti o n o f v e hicl e s o v er th e s e i s a ny thi n g th a n p le a s ur
a bl e . I n a dditi o n to a ll t h e i r o th er i n c o n v e n i e n c es th es e ,
s w a m p r o a d s a r e o ft e n u n d er w a t er T h e m o s t e li gibl e m o de
.
o f t r a v e lli n g a t t h e s o u th i s o n h o r s eb a ck I n th e W es t e r n .
S t a te s th e r o a d s a r e to o r o u gh fo r c o m fo r t abl e r idi n g in c ar
r i a es ; th e s t a g e c o a c h es a l s o a r e l e s s c o m m o di o u s th a n a t
g
th e E a s t ; a n d s u ch i s th e e xt en t a n d un s e ttl e d n a tu r e o f th e
c o u n tr y th a t th e c o m m u n ic a ti o n is l o n g a n d di s t a n t B ut th e .
id e as o f s p a c e a n d di s t a n c e e n t e r t a i n e d by th e W e s t e r n p e o
p le , a r e o n a gr a n d s c a l e a n d c o n v e n i e n t t o th e m s e l v e s T h ey *
.
,
t hi n k littl e o f a j o u r n e y o f tw o o r th r ee t h o u s a n d m il e s T ak .
i n g h o w e v e r th e i r w a t e r c o n v e y a n c e s i n t o vi e w t h e fa cility o f
, , ,
c o m m u n ic a ti o n m a k e s s o m e a m e n d s fo r th e e vil s o f d i s t a n c e
a nd s pac e T h e i r r iv e r s a r e th e g r e a t m e a n s o f i n ter c o ur s e
.
,
a n d a r e pli e d by a ll s o r t s o f c r a ft a n d w a t e r c o n v e y a n c e s .
H u n d r e d s o f s te a m b o a t s n a vi ate th e w a te r s o f th e O hi o a n d
th e M i s s i s s ippi T h e g r e a t t o r o u h far e s in t h e W es t a r e
.
th r o n ge d with s i n g ul a r c o ll e cti o n s 0 tr a v e ll e r s M a n y a r e s o .
s t r ick e n with p o v er ty th a t th e y h a v e s c a r c e ly a n y c o m fo r t s
o th e r s a b o u n d i n fl o ck s a n d h er d s o r s l a v e s O n l a n d th ey .
,
o fte n c o o k fo r th e m s e lv e s a n d p as s th e n i ght i n th e i r w a g o n s
,
o r t e n ts .
T a ki n g th e U n ite d S t a te s th r o u gh o u t th e c o m m u n ic a ti o n by ,
m e a n s o f s t e a m b o a t s , th o u gh n o t p er fe ctly s a fe , i s th e m o s t e x
e d i tio us a n d pl e a s a n t It i s g lly l t h c h p t
p en e r a .
,
a s o ,
e e a e s
m o d e o f t r a v e lli n g I n N e w E n gl a n d a n d th e M i d dl e S t a te s ,
.
th es e b o a ts a r e a ll t h a t c a n h e wi s h e d a s t o c o m fo r t n e a tn e s s , , ,
a n d b e a u ty T h e l o s s o f li fe by e xpl o s i o n s h a s s o m e ti m e s t a
.
,
k e n pl a c e b ut e v e n h e r e thi s h a s b e e n o ft e n er o wi n g to c a r e
, ,
l e s s m a n a g e m e n t th a n t o an y o th e r c a u s e I n th e S o u th er n
,
.
c o u n tr y th er e a r e m a n y n o b l e s tr e a m s b u t th e b o a t s which ply ,
th e m a r e l e s s c o n ve n i e n t i n a s m u c h a s th e y c ar r y m er c h a n di s e
,
a n d p r o d u c e a s w e ll as p a s s e n ge r s
,
T o th e b o a t s th a t s a il
.
th e W es te r n s t r e a m s, p a r tic u l a r ly th e M i s s i s s ippi th er e a r e ,
o th e r d a n e r s th a n th o s e which a r i s e fr o m t h e b ur s ti n
g of
b o il er s . h e m o s t s e r i o u s d a n g e r a r i s e s fr o m w h a t i s c a ll e d
s n a gg i n g T h i s m ea n s th e c o lli s i o n o f t h e b o a t s a g a i ns t l a r ge
.
tr e es , th a t a r e i m b e dd e d i n th e m u d at th e b o tto m o f th e M i s
s is s ip p i T h e s e a r e fr e que n tly fa lli n g i n to t h e s tr e a m , i n c o n
.
s e qu e n c e o f th e c a vi n g i n o f th e b a n k s whi c h a r e w o r n by th e ,
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tr e es is o fte n s o b r o k e n a s t o fill i m m e di a te ly withw a t er , a n d
.
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s o m e ti m e s t h e p as s e n g er s h a v e n o o p p o r t un ity fo r e s c a p e .
L a tely h o w e ve r b o a t s a r e c o n s tr u cte d with a s n a g r oom o r

, , ,
b ulw a r k , te n o r fi ft ee n fee t a b o v e t h e b o w s , a n d th u s ar e p r o
te cte d a g a i n s t a c cid e n t s o f thi s ki n d .
Th e m od e of con veya nce i n s t ea m ca r s , o n r a il r o a d s , is

34 U N IVER S A L T R A VELLER .
U N ITE D S T AT ES .
c om in g fa s t
i n t o u s e i n thi s c o un t r y , a s th e s e r o a d s a r e c o n
s tr u c ti n g th r o ugh o u t t h e le n h a n d b r e a d t h o f th e l a n d It i s .
a n e xp e d iti o u s a n d a r e e a b e m o d e o f t r a v e lli n
g g a n d i n ge n ,
e r a l , s a fe A fe w fa t a l a cci d e n t s h a v e o cc u r r ed o n th e m , a s
m us t i n a d e gr e e , b e e xp e ct e d wh er e s t ea m is e m pl o y e d
, In .
t h e M i d d l e S ta t e s th er e is a m o d e o f t r a v e lli n g w h ic h is n o t ,
i n s o fr e qu e n t u s e e l s e wh e r e T hi s is th e s a ili n g in c a n a l b o a ts
. .
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H u d s o n r iv er a wid e e xte n t o f c o un tr y m a y b e p a s s e d o v er
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by thi s m o d e o f t r a v elli n g It i s n o t e xp e d iti o us b u t is c o m

.
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p a r a tiv e ly s a fe T h e b o a ts m o ve n o t qu ite 1 00 m il es i n 24
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h o ur s T h e r e a r e o th er c a n a l s a l s o o f c o n s id er a bl e e xt e n t i n
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th e s e S t a te s T h e y a r e a l s o fo un d in th e S o uth a n d W es t,
.
a n d a v er y fe w in N e w E n gl a n d F o o d a n d l o d gi n g a r e fur
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n i s h e d in c a n a l b o a ts , whic h , i n m a n y i n s ta n c e s a r e n e a tly ,
fi tte d up A p ar t o f a n a c c o un t fr o m a r e c e n t vi s ite r t o t h i s
.
c o un t r y whic h d es c r i b e s in a liv ely m a n n er thi s m o d e o f

,
tr a v e lli n g , w ill b e s ubj o i n e d S p e a ki n g o f th e E r i e c a n al ,
.
h e s ay s
T h e r e w a s m u c h b u s i n e s s o n thi s w a t e r th o r o u gh fa r e -
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T h e b o a t s fo r th e t r a n s it o f go o d s w er e c a ll e d li n e b o a ts a n d -
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th o s e fo r p as s en g er s , p a ck e ts T h e p a ck e ts w er e a s o r t o f
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m a il ; th ey a r e d r a w n by th r e e h o r s es a t a s l o w tr o t ; a n d d o
n o t c l e a r m o r e th a n fo ur m il es a n h o u r With s o m e twe n ty .
p er s o n s , o u r p a ck e t m i ght h a v e b ee n t o l er ab l e b u t it s o h a p
p e n e d th a t w e h a d fr o m s ixty to s e v e n ty p a s s e n g e r s o n b o a r d ,
a n d th er e w a s m u ch t o b e a r F o r a ll th es e p e r s o n s , m a l e a n d
.
fe m a l e th e r e w as o n ly o n e r o o m t o liv e a n d m e a l a n d s l ee p
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in , o f a b o u t tw e lv e fee t by s e v e n ty T h e r e we r e c ur t a i n s in
.
d e e d p r o vi d e d , whic h m igh t s e p a r a te a p o r ti o n fr o m th e r e s t
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w h e n n e e d ful s till t h e di m e n s i o n s w er e th e s a m e .
“D u r i n th e d a w c o u ld r e li e v e o u r s e lv e s by g o i n g o n
g y, e
t h e r o o f o f t h e b o a t ; a n d thi s i s a d e s i r a b l e pl a c e b o th fo r a ir ,
a n d th e s i ght o f th e c o u n t r y B u t w e h a d di ffi c u lti es h er e

. .
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b r idge s w e r e s o n um e r o u s , a n d s o lo w a s to b e e xc ee di n gly ,
t r o u bl e s o m e a n d if y o u w e r e n e gli ge n t s o m e wh a t d a n ge r o us
, ,
.
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iv e n o tic e o f th e m by th e c ry o f br i d g e It w a s s o m e ti m e
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b e fo r e w e go t d r ill e d to it ; a n d wh en w e w er e it w a s a n a m u ,
s in s p e c t a cl e S o m e twe n ty m e n w o u ld b e s ta n di n g s itti n g,
.
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an l o o ki n g a b o u t in a ll di r e cti o n s a n d v a r i o us ly e n g a ge d ;,
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b ut a t th e c r y o f a b r idg e t h ey w o u l d r e p e a t t h e c r y , a s th e
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p a pi s t w o uld h is p r a y er s a n d fix th e i r ey es i n o n e d i r e cti o n ;
,
a n d wh e n t h e o bj e ct c a m e th ey w o u l d p r o s t r a t e th e m s e lv es
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o n t h e fl o o r , a s a t th e r i n gi n g o f th e b ell , a n d th e e l e v a ti o n o f
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th e h o s t .
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, ,
i n g a cc o m m od a ti o n F r o m a ll a pp e a r a n c e s , it did n o t s ee m
.
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s o o n s h o wn h o w m u ch c o ntr iv a nc e c o uld d o , i f it c o uld n o t d o

CA NA LS .
-
IN N S .
a ll th a t th e o c c a s i o n r e q ui r e d T h e c u r t a i n s I n a m e d w er e .
d r o pp e d o v er o n e thi r d o f th e r o o m a n d th u s m a d e a p r o vi s i o n ,
fo r t h e l a d ie s a n d c hild r e n O ur p o r ti o n o f t h e r o o m w a s
.
cl ea r e d A s e t o f fr a m e s , lik e l a r ger s h e lv es w e r e pr o d u c e d
.
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n o t m o r e th a n s ix fe e t high ; s o th a t it h a d t h e a pp e a r a n c e o f
b e i n g fill e d , fr o m t o p t o flo o r , with s m a ll bi n s T h en a ll t h e .
t a bl e s w er e c o ll e ct e d a n d pl a c e d d o w n t h e m i d dl e o f th e r o o m ,
,
a s fa r a s th e y w o u ld T h e s e tt e e s w er e e m pl o y e d t o fill i n
g o .
a n y p o s s i b l e s p a c e s ; a n d a ft e r a ll t h i s a c c o m m o d a ti o n w a s
d i s p o s e d o f, it w a s pl a i n ly u n d e r s t o o d th a t th e r e r e m a i n e d j us t
th e fl o o r .
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,
t h e b o d y , a n d p o s s ibly t o fo r g e t m y s e l f fo r a fe w m o m e n t s .
t w a s n o w b e y o n d m i d n i ht ; a n d n e a r ly a ll w e r e fa s t a s l ee p ,
a n d w er e a s s u r i n g y o u 0 g it by m utt e r i n g a n d n o i s y r e s pi r a
,
ti o n . T h e s igh t w a s r e a lly a s i n gul ar o n e T h e r o o m w as .
p a ck e d a ll a r o u n d fr o m to p to b o tt o m with h u m a n b e i n g s
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.
s c a r c e ly a p l a c e t o s t a n d a n d t w o p e r s o n s l a y a t m y fe et a n d ,
o n e at m y el b o w T w o li n es o f c o r d h a d b ee n c a r r i e d d o w n
.
th e c e ili n g o f th e r o o m th a t t h e s p a r e g a r m e n ts m ight b e
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h u n g o n t h e m H e r e th e n w as a n e xhib it i o n o f c o a ts t r o u
.
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s er s
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w a i s tc o a t s c r a v a t s ,,
a n d h a t s w o r thy o f M o n m o u th ,
s t r e e t ; th e g r e a t e vil o f which w a s th a t it c u t o ff t h e lit tl e ,
c h a n c e s o f v e n til a ti o n T w o gli m m e r i n g un s nu ffe d c a n dl e s ,
.
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g a v e s e p ulch r a l li ghts t o th e w h o l e O c c a s i o n ally h o w e v e r , .
,
t h e s c en e w a s an i m a t e d T h e v es s e l w a s li a bl e t o s h a r p
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j er k s o n e n ter i n g th e l o ck s ; a n d wh en th e s e o c c u r r e d y o u ,
m ight s ee s o m e d o z e n h e a d s s t ar ti n g fr o m th e s i d es lik e s o ,
m a n y tur tl e s fr o m t h e i r s h e ll s ; with a s u it a bl e a c c o m p a n i
m e n t o f wil d a n d s l ee py e xcl a m a ti o n s a n d th e n a g a i n th e y
w er e d r a w n i n a n d a ll w a s s till I fell i n t o a s h o r t s l u m b er
,
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m y fo o t i n th e fa c e o f a n o th e r s l e e p e r ; a n d a s t h e n ight w o r e
a w a y m o s t o f th e m g e tti n i n to s i m il a r p r e dic a m e n ts ”
, .
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s p ec ts b ut th er e a r e m a n y a l s o th a t a r e i n d i ffe r e n t a n d n u m
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,
n o m e a n s e q u a l to t h o s e o f E n l a n d “T h e y a r e a b u n d a n tly
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, ,
w e ll c o o k e d T h e y a r e a l s o d e fici e n t in cl e an li n e s s , a n d i n
.
th o s e a tte n ti o n s t o t h e w a nts o f a tr a v ell e r which c a n a l o n e ,

m a k e h im fe e l a t h o m e w h en h e i s i n a s t r a n g e pl a c e T h es e
,
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d e fe cts , h o w e v e r a r i s e fr o m ign o r a n c e r a th e r th a n fr o m a
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.
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a h o t el o r in n i s a l w a y s b r e d t o h is b u s i n e s s a n d i s th e r e fo re
,
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th o r o ghly a c q u ai n t e d w ith it
u I n thi s c ou n t ry, th e t av er n .
36 U NIVE R S A L T R A VE LLER .
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k e ep er s a r e, m a ny of
th e m th o s e w h o h a v e b e e n u n s u cc e s s ful
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t n o th e r p ur s uits o r h a v e ch o s e n thi s o c c u p a ti o n with th e e r
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r o n e o u s id e a th a t a n y b o d y c a n k e e p a t a v e r n ’ C o m p e titi
on .
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a s th e y ,
a r e o f gr e a t i m p o r t a n c e t o t h e p ublic c o n v e n i e n c e w e l o k
o
up o n th e i r i m p r o v e m e n t W i th s t r o n
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g n er e s .
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w h ic h i s a s p e ci a l fa v o r ite with th e n a ti o n , o r whic h i s o b s er v
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.
c o m m o n t o a ll p a r t s 0 th e c o u n tr y , th o u gh ch er i s h e d with
d i ffer e n t d e gr e e s o f i n te r e s t E a c h s e cti o n o f th e U n i o n h a s
.
a fe w p a s ti m e s o r s p o r t s o f it s o w n whic h w e s h a ll s o o n u n
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d e r tak e to n o tic e u n d e r thi s a r ticl e I n e n e r a l, a s a p e o pl e ,
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g ,
o th e r n a ti o n s .T h ey a r e e n g a ge d in m o r e s ub s t a n ti a l p ur
s u it s , es p e ci a lly th a t o f o bt a i n i n g p r o p e r ty till, in m a n y p a r ts
. S
o f th e c o un t r y a n d a m o n g c e r t a i n d e s c r ip ti o n s o f p eo pl e t h e r e
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a r e o b s er v e d with c o n s id e r a bl e fr e q u e n cy th r o u g h o u t th e l a n d .
I f w e w e r e c a ll e d u p o n t o n a m e a n y n a tio n a l fes tiv a l , it w o ul d

b e th e F o u r th o f J uly , o r th e a n n iv e r s ar y o f o u r I n d e p e n d en c e .
A s a n a ti o n a l a m u s e m e n t , p o s s ibly d a n ci n g m i ght b e n a m e d ,
o r th a t u s e d to b e a fa v o r it e th o u h l e s s p r a cti s e d a t p r e s e n t
, g ,
a n d a l s o v ar i o u s fo r m s o f b a ll pl a yi n g -
.
I n N ew E n g l a n d , w e m a y n o tic e fi r s t , th e d a y o f Th a nks
g i v in g. T h a t d a y i s d e a r to th e h e ar t o f e v e r y s o n a n d d a ugh
t er o f th a t fa v o r e d r e gi o n It i s s w e e t in th e a n ticip a ti o n , i n t h e
.
e nj o y m e n t, a n d i n t h e r e m e m b r a n c e I n fa n cy , y o u th , a n d o ld
.
a ge— all r a n k s , d e g r ee s , s e x es a n d c o m pl exi o n s , a r e r e n d er e d

,
h a p py by i t s a n n ua l r e t ur n ; a n d a ll u n it e in t h e h e art , if n o t
with th e v o ic e , i n s h o uti n g its w e lc o m e It t a k e s pl a c e l a t e in .
a u t um n , a ft e r th e fr u its o f th e e a r th a r e g a th er e d i n , a n d t h e
l a b o r s o f th e h u s b a n d m a n h a v e b ee n r e w a r d e d by th e fr u iti o n
o f t h e h a r v es t . S
T h e go v er n o r s o f t h e t a te s a pp o i n t th e d ay ,
a n d i s s u e a p r o cl a m a ti o n t o th a t e ff e ct— a p r i n t e d c o py o f
whic h i s p ut i n t o th e h a n d o f e a ch cl e r gy m a n Wh e n th e .
h a ppy d a y ar r iv e s , t h e p e o pl e a s s e m b l e in th e i r r es p e ctiv e
pl a c e s o f w o r s h ip , d r e s s e d i n th eir b e s t a tti r e T h e r e th ey .
li s te n t o a n a pp r o p r i a t e s er m o n , a n d j o i n i n p r a y e r , hy m n s ,
a n d a n th e m s , e xp r e s s ly a d a pt e d to t h e o c c a s i o n T h es e s e r .
vic es g e n e r a lly o cc upy a b o u t t w o h o u r s , a n d th e n a r e o ve r fo r

t h e d a y ; t h e r e m a i n d er o f which i s v ar i o u s ly s p e n t , wh e th e r
r eligi o u s ly o r i n r e c r e a ti o n , a c c o r di n g to t h e t a s t e s o f th e
p e O p le.
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T h a n ks g i vi n g d in n er fo r m s , h o w e v e r , a p r o m i n en t
fe a t u r e o f t h e pict ur e E v er y fa r m e r s t a b l e n o w liter a lly
.
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gr o a n s with th e w e ight o f th e fe a s t ” F l es h a n d fo wl s o f h is
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o w n r a i s in g a n d fa tt e n i n g— fi s h a n d g a m e fr o m h is o w n s tr e a m s
a n d w o o dl a n d s — y e e t a bl es o f h i s o w n pl a n ti n g— b u tt er , m ilk ,
a n d ch ees e, th e p r o n ot o f h is o wn d a i r y — ar e n o w fo un d in
E E L CT O N — FO URTH OF U LY — C O MM NC
I . J . E E M EN TS .
l uxu r i a n t p r o fus i o n u p o n h is h os pit a bl e t a bl e ; whil e th e d e li

c io u s
“ ”
p u m pki n p ie l e a d s a h o s t o f o th e r d a i n ti es i n th e
b o u n ti ful d es s e r t A pp r e n tic es in th e citi e s , w h o a r e p e r m itt e d
.
to vi s it th e i r p a r e n t a l a n d r u r a l h o m es o n ly o n c e o r twic e a y e a r ,
a re n o w s ur e to b e p r e s e n t ; a n d a h o a r y h e a d e d p a t r i a r ch -
o fte n p r e s id e s a t th es e d o m e s tic b a n qu e ts , wh e r e th e g ues t s c o m

p r i s e t w o o r th r e e g e n e r a ti o n s o f h is o w n d e s c e n d a n ts I n th e .
c iti es a n d p o p u l o u s t o w n s o f N e w E n gl a n d , thi s fe s tiv a l is n o t

o b s e r v e d with th e s a m e s tr ic t n es s n o r e nj o y e d with th e s a m e
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z e s t th a t di s ti n guis h es it in c o u n tr y vill age s T hi s ci rc u m

,
.
s t a n c e i s p r o b a bly o wi n g t o t h e m o d e r n i n t r o d u cti o n o f o th e r
h o ly d ay s p a r tic u l ar ly th a t o f Ch r is tm as , which i s n o w k e p t,
,
wi th m o r e o r l es s d e v o ti o n, by Ch r i s ti a n s o f v a r i o u s d e no m i
n afi o n s .
E l ecti on da y, as it is i m p r o p er ly de n o m i n a te d , is a n a nn iv er
s a r y o f s o m e i m p o r t a n c e , i n th e m e tr o p o li s o f N e w E n gl a n d ,
a n d a t th e s e a t o f g o ver n m e n t, i n e a ch o f th e S t a t e s It is n o t .
t h e d ay , h o w e v e r , o n whic h th e e l e ctive fr a n c hi s e is e x er ci s e d
by th e citiz e n s , b ut o n which th e go v e r n o r e l e ct, a n d o th er s u c
c e s s fu l c a n did a te s , a r e i n s t all e d i n o ffi c e M ilit a r y p a r a d es a r e
.
c o m m o n o n the s e o c c as i o n s , a n d p e o pl e fl o ck i n to to wn fr o m
a ll qu ar t er s , t o wit n e s s t h e s pl e n did p a g e a n t E v er y pl a c e o f .
p ub lic a m u s e m en t h o ld s o ut u n usu al a ttr a c tio n s to th e e xcite d

m u ltitu d e .
T h e F o u r th of J u ly is c ele b r a te d in a ll th e citi e s a n d p c p u
l o u s t o w n s o f N e w E n gla n d , a s e l s e wh er e i n th e U n it e d S t a tes ,
b y m ilit a r y p a r a d es fi r i n g o f c a n n o n , di s pl a y o f c o l o r s , r i n g
,
i ng o f b e ll s , p a tr i o ti c o r a t i o n s , p u b lic d i n n e r s , &c .
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d a y s o f m u c h p ub lic fe s tivity , i n th e pl a c e s wh e r e th e y a r e
h el d T h e y a r e a tten d e d by n u m e r o u s vi s ite r s fr o m a b r o a d,
.
a n d ge n er a lly th o s e o f t h e m o r e p o li s h e d a n d liter a r y cl a s s e s
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T h e p u b lic e x er ci s e s o f th e d a y a r e g e n e r a lly m a d e v e r y i n t e r
e s ti n g, by th e lit e r a r y e xhibiti o n s o f t h e r a d u a ti n g s t u d e n t s
g ,
a n d by a pp r o p r i a t e m u s ic A h o lyd a y I S o fte n e nj o y e d o n
.
th e s e o cc a s i o n s , by m e ch a n ic s , a pp r e n tic es , s e r v a n ts , l a b o r e r s ,
te a ch e r s , p upil s , a n d a ll s ub o r di n a tes , w h o s e s er vic e s c a n b e
di s p e n s e d with by th e i r e m pl o y er s .
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fl us h i n g f r o li cs a r e k n o w n to N e w E n gl a n d ers b o th a s a ,
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s l o w a n d t e di o u s p r o c es s W h e n th e I n di a n c o r n , o r m a iz e
.
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h as b e e n g a th e r e d fi o m th e fi e l ds a n d d e p o s it e d i n t h e c o r n
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h us ki n g ; whic h i s s i m ply s tr ippi n g th e l e a v e s o r h u s k s fr o m
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r o ws o r ci r cl es a t c o n v e n i e n t di s t a n c e s a n d a tt a ck th e
, pe n .
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d er o u s h e a p b e fo r e th e m T h e e a r s a r e s tr ipp e d with a d e x
.
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te r o us h a n d a n d th r o wn i n t o a g e n e r a l h e a p whil e t h e h us k s
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th e j e s t an d t h e l a u gh o r o u n d whil e th e s p a r k li n g cid e r
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p it a b l e h o s t ,
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fo r th e o c c a s i o n T hi s i s n o t u n fr eq u en tly fo ll o w e d b y a b a ll ;
.
a s m o s t o f th e y o un g m e n a r e a c c o m p a n i e d by th e i r fa v o r i te
l as s es .
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th o s e o f o th e r se cti o n s o f th e U n ite d S t a t es T h e y o u n g m e r .
a r e e xp e r t i n a v a r i e ty o f ga m e s a t b a ll — s u ch a s c r i ck e t ,
b a s e c a t fo o tb a ll t r a p b a ll a l s o qu o its &c B illi ar d s , c a r d s
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d l e S t a t es , m a y n o w b e n o tic e d A m o ng th o s e m ay b e m e n .
t i o n e d t h e F i r s t of J a n u a r y whic h h a s be e n o bs er v e d a t l e a s t
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fo r o n e h u n d r e d a n d fi fty y e ar s It is a fe s ti va l o f D utch 0 1 1 .
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i n a n d o f n o li ttl e i m p o r t a n c e t o th e p e o pl e n o t o n ly a s o n e
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g e d j o u r n e y o f h u m a n li fe o r r a th e r a s a n i n n o r s t e p i n g
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pl a c e fo r r e fr e s h m e n ts It c o n s i s t s i n m a ki n g pr es e n ts p a s s
.
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i n g V i s its a n d r e vivi n g fr i e n d s h ip s o n N e w Y e a r s d a y
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ci ty o f N e w Y o r k in p a r t ic ul a r t hi s c u s to m i s k e p t u p It is
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a p r a ctic e h a ll o w e d by ti m e a n d s a n cti o n e d by i t s s a l ut a r y c o n
s e qu e n c e s I t b r i n s l o n g e s tr a n g e d fr i en d s to r e m e m b e r a n d
.
g
v i s it e a c h o th e r ; 1 t giv e s li fe a n d ga y e ty t o a d r e a r y i n cl e ,
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t o m , a n d a s s uch it m a y w ell b e h o n o r e d P ublic b u s i n e s s o f .
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tli n g to n gu es o f th e fa i r d i s tr ib u t o r s o f c a k es a n d c o ff e e with ,
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t h o u gh t h e n e w s p r e s s b e s il en t, s o m e o f its s ub o r di n a t e a ge n t s
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ar e t hi s d ay i n a ll th ei r gl o r y T h e C ARR I ER , wh o h a s fa ith .
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a r d , w h o is th u s hi m s e l f e n abl e d to j o in in th e fes tiviti es o f th e
gya .
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d e r c e r t a i n re s tr ic ti o n s is t o le r a te d by law
r a ci n g , u n ,
in t h e S t a te o f N e w Y o r k A b o ut th e m iddle o f M ay a n d O c
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t o b e r , th e U n i o n c o ur s e o n L o n g Is l an d , e xhibits a n a n i m a te d
s c e n e fo r th r ee d a y s a tte n d e d by i m m e n se c r o wd s o f s pe cta t o r s
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fr o m th e city a nd n e ighb o r i n g v ill a ge s T h e r e m u s t, h o w ev .
e r , b e n e c es s ar ily m u c h di s s ip a ti o n a nd a w a s te o f ti m e a n d
m o n e y o n s u c h o c c a s io n s
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hil a r ity a n d C h r i s tm a s e v e in th e c ity o f N e w Y o r k, e xhibit s

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a s p e ct a cle , which , t o a s tr a n g er , m us t b e highly pl e a s i n g a n d

e ffe ctiv e Wh o l e r o ws o f c o n fe c ti o n ar y s t o r es an d to y s h O p s ,
.
fa n ci fully, a n d o fte n s p le nd idly d ec o r a te d w ith fe s t o o n s o f

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,
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s h a p e a n d fi gu r e th a t im a gi n a ti o n c a n d e vi se D uri n g t he .
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,
e r s o f b o th s e x es a n d a ll a ge s ; s o m e , s e l e c t i n g t o y s a n d fr u its
fo r h o lid a y p r e s en ts ; o the r s , m er e ly l o u n gi n g fr o m s h o p to
s h o p , to e nj o y t h e v a r i e d s c e n e B u t th e m os t i n t e r es ti n g, a n d
.
i n o ur e s ti m a ti o n , th e m o s t d e light fu l s ight o f a ll, is t he h a ppy

a n d a n i m a t e d c o u nt e n a n c e s o f ch ild r en o n thi s o c c a s i o n
,
.
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m i r th , o r b e a m s fr o m th e c o u n te n a n ce in s u n n y s m il es , whic h
a r e s till m o r e e xp r e s s iv e I f th e w e a th er b e fa i r , m u s ic is
.
h e a r d fr o m v a r i o us qu ar t er s , wh il e c h a n gi n g p e a l s fr o m th e
c hi m i n g b e ll s o f o ld T r in ity , fall a t i nt er v al s o n th e d e light e d
e ar .
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o b s er v e d in th e M id d l e S t a t es , s u c h a s S t P a tr ick s d ay P as
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m en t a ll th e i r citi e s a r e a m ply s uppli e d w ith th e m

, T h e a tr e s , .
c o n c er t s pl e as u r e g ar d e n s e q ues tr i an e xhibiti o n s m u s e um s
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t o o m u ch e n c o ur a ge m e n t : wh il e r e a din g r o o m s , ac a d e m i e s o f
th e fi n e a r ts , a n d o th e r fas hi o n a b l e r e s o r ts , h o ld fo r th th e i r a t
t r a cti o n s to p r o fes s i o n a l ar tis ts , a m a teur s , liter a r y l o u n g e r s ,
a n d b o o kl e s s a u th o r s .
A m on g th e a m us em en ts of th e p eop l e of th e S ou th er n S ta t es ,
w e fi n d t h e B a r b ecu e a n d it is ge n e r ally, at t h e s a m e ti m e a n ,
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a c t o f h o s pi ta lity T hi s i s a fe a s t i n th e o p e n a ir e ith er un de r
.
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s ,
.
t p r e p a r e d un d er th e d ir ec ti o n an d a t th e ex p en s e o f s uc h
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cac o f w ho m u s u a lly c o n t r ib ut es s u c h e d i b l e d a i n ti e s , a s h i s
t as te o r c o n v en i e n c e m a y s u gge s t I n d e p en d en t o f th es e pic
.
n ic s , h o w e v e r , t h e r e is a lw a y s s o m e s a v o u r y a n i m a l r o a s t e d
wh o l e , fo r thi s oc c a s i o n , a ft e r th e m a n n er o f th e a n ci e nt s .
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fa t u , a ck fa ll o w —d eer , a s h e e p , o r o th e r a n i m a l .B ut t o c o n
s ti t ut e a b a r b ec u e it m u s t b e r o a s t e d w h o l e — n o t a b o n e o f it
,
m u s t b e b r o ke n . T h e s e fe s tiv al s t a k e p l a c e d uri n g th e s um
m e r a n d a u tu m n m o n th s , w h en e v e r y l uxur y th a t t h e se a s o n
c a n a ffo r d , a c c o m p a n i e d with wi n e , p u n c h , ic es , a n d o th er r e
fr e s h m en ts , is p r o vid e d in g e n er o u s a b u n d a n c e . B
o th s e x es
s o m e ti m es p ar t a k e o f thi s b a n q u e t, which i s t h e n e n liv e n e d by
a b a n d o f m u s ic , a n d s u cc e e d e d by a r u r a l d a n c e .
T o Hor s e r a ci n g t h e p e o pl e o f th e S o u t h a r e m o r e a ddict e d ,
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th a n th e citi z e n s o f a n y o t h e r p o r ti o n o f th e U n i o n T h e fi r s t.
cl a s s es in m a n y p ar ts o f th e S o uth en a ge in th e m E ve r y .
wh e r e th e a c c o m p li s h m e n t o f h o r se m a n s l ip i s highly a p p r e c i a
te d , a n d th e s p o r ts o f t h e tu r f s e e m t o b e e nj o y e d with m u c h
z e s t T h e Vi r gin i a n s , i n p a r tic ul ar , s ee m t o p r id e th e m s el ves
.
o n th e i r e q u e s t r i a n fe a ts .
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b u t e v e n m o r e t h a n h o r s e—r a ci n g d o we d i s a pp r o v e o f it It is .
a b a r b a r o us a m u se m e n t, a n d wit h its ki n d r e d s p o r t s o f b ul l
a n d b ear b ai ti n g, o ught t o b e di s c o un t en a n c e d by e v er y fr i e n d
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o f h u m a n i ty . B e t s r un hi gh i n th e s p o r t s b o th o f h o r se r a ci n g -
a n d c o ck fi gh tin g
-
.
T h er e ar e n o t m a ny a m u s e m en t s p e c uli a r to th e S o u th .
T h e C a th o lic s a n d E pi s c o p a li a n s , o f c o u r s e , o bse r v e s u ch fe a s t
d ay s a s t h e i r r es p e ctiv e c h ur c h e s r e q ui r e , p ar ti c ul ar ly Ch r i s t
’
m a s a n d N e w Y e ar s . T h e n e g r o e s , e v er y wi n t e r , e nj o y a
’ ’
w e ek s r e c r e a ti o n , i n cl u di n g C h r is tm a s a nd N e w Y e a r s ; d u
r i n g w hich th e y p r o s e c u t e t h e i r pl a y s a n d s p o r ts i n a v e r y lu
d i c r o us a n d e xtr a v a g a n t m a n n er , d r es s i n g a n d m a s kin g i n th e
m o s t gr o t e s q ue s tyl e, a n d h a vi n g in fa c t a c o m pl e t e c a r n iv a l .
T h e Wes ter n S t a t es b e i n g p e o pl e d p r i n cip a lly by e m ig r a n ts

fr o m th e se a b o a r d , p r e s e n t fe w n o v elti es a pplic a bl e t o o ur p r es
-
e n t s ubj e c t . T h e i r c u s to m s a n d a m us e m e n ts ar e s i m il ar to
th o s e w hic h h a v e b e en a l r ea dy d esc r ib e d .
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ti o n s , i s o n e a n d th e s a m e It i s th e gen ui n e E n gli s h o f th e
.
m o th e r c o u n tr y , a n d p r e v a il s i n a l m o s t e v er y S t a t e Th e .
F r e n c h a n d S p a n i s h a r e s p o k en e xt e n s ive ly i n L o u i s i a n a ; a n d
th e G e r m a n in P e n n s ylv a n i a , a n d i n a fe w p l a c e s, i n o n e o r t w o
o th e r S t a te s I n P e n n s ylv a n i a, th er e a r e n e ws p a p e r s , a l m a
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na c s a n d a n e diti o n o f th e S t a t e l a w s , p r i n te d i n th e G er m a n
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to n gue E v e n th e r e , h o w e v e r , th e E n gli s h is g r a du a lly gai n

.
in g o n th e G e r m a n , a n d th e y h a v e a la w, th a t n o o n e s h a ll s er ve
as a j ur o r , wh o
c a n n o t r e a d in th a t l a n gu a ge Ita li a n is a l s o .
s p o k en t o a s m a ll e xt e n t, b ut c hi e fl y i n c iti es by fo r e i gn e r s .
T h e E n gli s h , o f c o ur s e, i s th e p r o p er t o n gu e fo r th e p eo pl e o f
thi s c o un tr y .
N o twith s ta n di n g th e g r e a t ink r m ix tur e o f m en fr o m di ffer

e nt n a ti o n s whic h h a s t a k e n pl a c e i n o u r c o u n t r y , it i s n o t a lit
,
tle r e m a r k a bl e th a t th e E n gli s h is s p o k e n h er e with a s m u c h
,
p u r ity , a s in a n y p ar t o f th e B r iti s h d o m i n i o n s , a n d with a d e
~
g r e e o f u n i fo r m ity ,
whic h i s n o t fo u n d e l s e wh e re W ith v e r y .
lit tl e v a r i a ti o n th e i d i o m e ve n o f th e l o w e s t cl as s es o f s oc i e ty
, , ,
is th e s a m e in M a i n e, a s in G eo r gi a ; n o b a r b a r o u s, u n c o u th , o r
u n i n te lligi b le p r o vi n ci a l j a r go n , o r p a to i s , o ffe n d s o r di s tr a c ts
t h e e a r o f th e t r a v e lle r ; a fe w lo c a l e xp r es s i o ns , o r a s li ght
d i ffer e n c e in t h e p r o n u n ci a ti o n o r a c c e n tu a tio n o f a fe w w o r ds ,
,
i s a ll t h a t m a y b e o b s er v e d , a n d th a t o n ly i n so m e o f th e S t a te s ,
fo r th er e a r e m a n y wh e r e e v e n th e b a ck w o od s fa r m e r s s p e a k
t h e E n gli s h l a n gu a ge wi th a l m o s t cl a ss ic a l p ur ity W e h a ve .
b e e n s e ver e ly t a k e n to t a s k by th e lite r a ti o f G r e a t B r it a i n ,
fo r h a vi n g i n t r o d uc ed a fe w n e w w o r d s i n to o u r c o m m o n i d i o m ;
s u ch fo r i n s t a n c e a s th e w o r d l en g th y whic h s e e m s t o h a ve
, , ,
giv e n p e c uli a r o ffe n c e to th e n ic e e a r s o f o u r tr an s a tl a n tic

b r e th r en T his c h a r ge h o we v er , m a y b e m e t by a s i n gl e r e
.
,
m a r k v iz : th a t i f A m e r ic a h as a d o pte d a fe w w o r d s s i n c e
,
.
,
t h e p e r i o d o f h er s e p a r a ti o n fr o m G r e a t B r it a i n E n gl a n d h a s ,
a d o pt e d m a ny m o r e With wh a t gr a c e th e n d o es s h e c o n
.
d e m n A m e r ic a wh e n h e r s i ns i n th e fo r e g o i n g p ar tic ul ar a r e
,
s o m uc h m or e nu m er o u s ?
M u ch h a s b een s a id a nd w r i tt en r esp ect i ng th e li t er a tu r e o f

thi s c o u n tr y b o th i n th e ,
w ay o f d i s p ar a ge m e n t, a n d o o m m e n
d a ti o n o r d e fe n c e I t w a s c er t a i n ly n o t to h a v e b e e n e xp e c te d ,
.
t h a t u n d e r o u r p e c uli a r ci r c u m s t a n c e s , fo r m a n y y e a r s fr o m th e
s e ttl e m e n t o f t h e c o u n tr y s u c h a tt e n ti o n c o ul d b e p a id to lite r a
,
tu r e a n d s ci en c e a s i n t h e o ld er c o un tr i e s o f E ur o p e T h e
,
.
d i ffi c ul ti e s o f t r a n s fo r m i n g a wild er n e s s i n t o a fr u itful fi e l d , i n
c e s s a n t m a n u a l o c c up a ti o n a n d fr e q u en t w a r s o f s e l f d e fe n c e ,
,
-
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h av e be e n s e r i o u s o b s t a cl es to high m en t a l c uf ure Y e t m u c h .
h a s b e e n d o n e c o m p a r a tive ly fo r t hi s i m p o r t a n t o bj e ct B es id es
, .
m a ki n g a m o r e e xte n s ive a n d e ffe ct u a l p r o vi s i o n fo r ge n e r a l e d

u c a ti o n a s w e h a ve a l r ea d y s e e n , th a n h as e v er be e n r e a li z e d
,
by a n y o th er p e o pl e th e n a ti o n h a s a l r e a dy p r o d uc e d its d i s
tin u i s h e d s ch o l a r s , a n d w r ite r s s e v e r a l o f wh o m w ill b e a r n o ,
-
u n a v o r a b le c o m p a r i s o n with th e fi r s t s ch o l ar s a n d wr it e r s
ab r o ad . A m o n g th e d e p a r te d , w e m ay n a m e , a s m e n o f gr e a t
r e a ch o f th o u gh t a n d in s e v er a l i n s ta n c e s o f p o w e r fu l w r i tin g,
, ,
E dw a r d s F r a n kli n H a m ilt o n , A m es D e n n i e D wight, a n d

, , , ,
M ar s h a ll A lth o u gh m a n y wo r k s o f t a s t e a n d e l e g a n t dic ti o n,
.
h a ve n o t b e e n fo r m e r ly w r itte n , y e t th e r e h a v e n o t b e e n w a n t
in g p hil o s o phic a l di s c o v er i es , a n d r e s e a r c h es o f th e m o s t inter
42 U N IVER S A L T R A VELLER .
es ti n c h a r a ct er n o r w ell c o m p o s e d a n d e v e n th e m os t abl e p o
,
l itic a pi e c e s .
[ L is c er t a i n th a t o ur lit e r a t u r e h a s m a d e a v er y c o ns id er a bl e
p r o gr es s d ur i n g th e l as t tw e n ty o r thi r ty y e a r s a s i s a l s o th e ,
c a s e w i t h e ver y b r a n c h o f l e ar n i n g P o e t s hi s to r i a n s a n d e s .
, ,
s a y is ts h a v e a r i se n o f th e h igh e s t r es p e c t a b ility m o s t o f w h o m
, , ,
a r e s till livi n g S e ver a l sc ien tific w o r k s h a v e a ppea r e d th a t
.
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w ould c o n fer c r e d it o n th e s ch o l a r s o f any c o u n tr y I n th e o l .
ogy a n d b i b lic a l c r itici s m w e n o w h a v e w r ite r s w h o a r e p r o b ,

a b ly s u p e r i o r t o th e E n gli s h a n d a r e e xc e e d e d o n ly by th e b es t
,
o f G er m a n y I n t h e li gh ter e ffus i o n s o f t a s te an d ficti o n

.
,
s e v e r a l n a m e s a r e c e l eb r a t e d in E u r o p e a s w ell a s i n th e i r ,
n a tiv e l a n d I n l e xi c o gr a phy w e c a n b o a s t a s t a n d a r d w o r k
.
, ,
’
( W e b s t er s D icti o n a r y ,)
which ,
it i s b e li e v e d ,
fo r e xt e n t o f
l e a r n in a n d a c c u r a cy o f th o u ght i s s u p e r i o r t o a n y p u blic a ~
,
ti o n o f t e ki n d in t h e E n gli s h l a n gu a ge R e c e n tly i n p e r i o d i .
,
c a l liter a t ur e A m er ic a h a s m a d e t h e m o s t l a u d a b l e e ffo r t s ;
,
a n d i n d e e d thi s i s a fo r m i n w h ich t h e m i n d o f a ll i n t e ll e ctu a l
, ,
n a ti o n s n o w c h o o ses t o ex hi b it m u ch o f its w e a lth .
T h e p er i o d ic al p r e s s , e m b r a ci n g n e w s p a p e r s , m a g a zi n e s ,
a n d r e vi e w s d e v o t e d t o r e li gi o n , lite r a tu r e a r t s s ci e n c es p o li
, , , ,
tic s , i n te lli ge n c e a n d a m u s e m en t s c o m p r i se s a s p e ci e s o r
, , ,
fo r m o f lite r a tu r e u n k n o w n t o th e a n ci e n t s an d c o n s t itu te s a
, ,
r e m a r k a bl e fe a t ur e o f th e m o d e r n s t a t e o f s o ci e ty ; a n d i t is
o n e o f t h e m os t m o m e n t o u s c o n s e qu e n c e s o f t h e a r t o f p r i n t ;
i n g — B e fo r e t h e A m e r ic a n r e v o l uti o n v a r i o us a tte m pts w e r e ,

m a d e t o es t a bli s h r eligi o u s a n d lite r a r y j o ur n a l s in s e v er a l p l a ,
c e s in t hi s c o un tr y , p a r tic u l ar ly B o s t o n N e w Y o r k , a n d P hil a ,
d elphi a b u t n o o n e o f th e m o bt a i n e d a lib er a l s u pp o r t, o r h a d
,
a l o n g d u r a ti o n “ S i n c e th e r e v o l u ti o n a n d m o r e e s p e ci a lly , ,
s i n c e t h e c o m m e n c e m e n t o f t h e p r e s e n t c e n t u r y , e n te r p r i s e s o f
thi s n a t ur e h a v e b ee n gr e a tly m ul tipli e d ” .
I n th e U S t a t es th er e i s m u ch t a l en t f or i m i t a t i v e a r ts ,
n i t ed
a n d th e t a s te i s b e c o m i n g m o r e r e fi n e d a n d e l e v a t e d The .
p r o gr e s s m a d e in s t a tu a r y a n d p a i n ti n g, e s p e ci a lly i n t h e l a tt er ,
is gr a tify in to th e l o v er s o f a r t ; b ut t h e p a tr o n a ge a ffo r d e d
t o th e s e e o r t s o f ge n i u s , is i n a d e qu a t e t o th e i r full d e v e l o p ~
m en t . S
e v e r a l p a i n t er s , d e s tit u t e o f th e a d v a n t a ge s e nj o y e d by
E ur o p e a n a r tis ts , h a v e , n e v e r th el e s s , a tt a i n e d to e m i n e n c e , a n d
a r e a d m i r e d i n E ur o p e , a s w e ll a s a t h o m e A high r e p ut a
‘
ti o n h a s b een a tta i n e d by W es t a n d C o pl e y, by T r um b ull , S tu

a r t, a n d o th e r s T h er e a r e a fe w s c u lpto r s , w h o a r e n o t u n d i s
.
ti n guis h e d T h e r e a r e i n B o s to n , a n d i n m a n y o f th e l ar ge
.
t o wn s , m a n y c a s t s fr o m th e b e s t a n tique s c ulptur e s , a n d s o m e
o r i gi n a l w o r k s o f m er i t a r e fo u n d i n v a r i o u s p a r ts o f th e c o u n
tr y . I n c o n n e xi o n with th e A th e n eu m , a t B o s to n , i s a g all er y
t o which th e p r o p r i e t o r s o f go o d pictur es s e n d th e m , fo r a fe w
w e e k s in s u m m e r , to b e e xhi b ite d A la r e a n d e xc ell en t c o l .
le c t i o n is th u s m a d e, t o ge th er with o r i gi n a w o r k s o f a r ti s t s o f
fe r e d fo r p r em ium s I n P hil a d e lphi a, th er e ar e se v er a l dis tin
.
44 U NI V E R S A L T R A VELLER .
T o th e fi r s t cl as s b e l o n g s u ch fa ct o r i es a s th o s e a t D o v er , N o r
w ich , N a s h u a , P a tte r s o n , W a l th a m , W a r e , &c ; t o t h e l a s t, a .
m u l ti tud e o f s m a ll e r o n e s s c a tt e r e d th r o u gh o u t o u r c o u n tr y ,
a n d b e l o n gi n g e ith e r to a s i n gl e i n divid u a l , o r m o r e c o m m o n ly
to a c o m p a n y , with a c a pit a l o f o n e o r t w o h u n d r e d th o us a n d
d o ll a r s Y o u n g child r e n a r e e xte n s iv ely e m pl o y e d in e s ta b li s h
.
m e n t s o f t h is ki n d , a n d in m a n y c a s e s , w e d o u b t n o t, th e e vil s
r es u lti n g fr o m m a n u fa ct u r e s in E n gl a n d , ar e e xp e r i e n c e d t o a
l i m ite d e xte n t, i n th e n e igh b o r h o o d o f s u c h fa c t o r i e s .
N e w E n gl a n d a n d th e M id d l e S t a t e s i n cl u d e by fa r t h e g r e a t
e s t p o r ti o n o f t h e m a n u fa ct u r e s o f t h e U n i o n A m o n g th e s e , .
P e n n s ylv a n i a r a n k s th e fi r s t, a n d M a s s a c h u s e tt s t h e n e xt T h e .
gl a s s m a n u fa ct ur e s a t P itts b u r g, i n th e fo r m er S t a te a r e m u c h
c e l e b r a te d T h e gl a s s is whi te , cl e a r , a n d e xc ell e n t, b o th i n
.
te xt ur e a n d p o li s h I n M a s s a c h us e tt s , th er e a r e i m p o r t a n t m a n
.
u fa c tu r e s , n o t o n ly a t L o w e ll , a s a l r e a d y m en ti o n e d , b u t a t
W a l t h a m , F a ll Riv er Vill a ge , T a u n t o n , A m e s b u r y , S o u th
b r i d ge , & c B ut w e c a n n o t s p e ci fy th e pl a c e s i n t h e U n it e d
.
S t a te s , wh e r e m a nu fa c tu r e s a r e c a r r i e d o n , o r th e va r i e ty o f
a r ticl e s fa b r ic a t e d S uffic e it t o s ay , it is th e m o s t i m p o r ta n t
. .
i n te r es t, ne xt to a gr ic ult ur e .
Th e i mp or t a n ce of u n iv er s a l ed u ca t i on i s m o r e e xt e n s iv ely
S
fe lt in th e U n it e d t a t e s , th a n i n a n y o th e r c o u n t r y It w a s t h e .
O pi n i o n o f th e e ar ly s ettl er s ge n e r a lly , a n d h a s s i n c e b ee n o f
m o s t o f th e i r d e s c e n d a n ts , th a t t h e b e s t s e c u r ity fo r r e ligi o u s
a n d civil lib e r ty , w a s th e d i ff us i o n o f e d u c a ti o n T h e s uc c es s .
o f o u r e xp e r i m e n t , a s a r e p ub lic , i s c o n c e iv e d t o d e p e n d o n thi s
ci r c um s t a n c e A c c o r di n gly , a t te m pts h av e b e e n m a d e to s e
.
c u r e th e un iv e r s a l e d u c a ti o n o f t h e p e o pl e A n d t h e o b j e c t .
h as i n a gr e a t m e as u r e b ee n r e a liz e d B
y th e e s t a bli s h m e n t
.
o f c o m m o n s ch o o l s , th e m e a n s o f i n s t r u cti o n h a v e b e e n ge n
e r a lly e x te n d e d t o t h e p e o pl e I n c er t a i n p o r ti o n s o f th e c o u n
.
tr y , a s N ew E n g la n d , a n d N ew Yo r k, a ll lit e r a lly h a v e h a d
o pp o r t u n i ti e s t o l e a r n I n N e w E n gl a n d , g e n er a lly s p e a ki n g
.
,
th er e a r e n o n e w h o c a n n o t r e a d a n d w r ite T h e ch e a p n e s s , .
a n d n u m b e r o f p e r i o d ic a ls , giv e a l m o s t e v e r y fa m ily a cc e s s
to a t l e a s t o n e n e w s p a p e r , a n d m a n y t a k e m o r e th a n o n e .
T h e p e o pl e a r e g e n er a lly a s w e ll i n fo r m e d o f E u r o p e a n e v en t s ,
a s a r e t h e n a tiv e s o f E u r o p e a n c o u n t r i es T h e p ar tic u l a r
.
c o u n ti e s o r d i s t r icts o fte n h a v e th e i r s e p a r a t e p a p er , a n d in
citi e s , t h e y s u r p a s s i n de fi n ite ly th e n u m b e r s fo u n d in E ur o p e .
I n t h e [ Mi d d l e S t a t es , t h e m e a n s o f e d u c a ti o n , th o ugh n o t s o
w e ll e nj o y e d a s i n N e w E n gl a n d , a r e b y n o m e a n s n e gl e cte d .
It i s n o t c o m m o n , e xc e pt a m o n g th e fo r e ig n er s a n d t h ei r c hil
d r e n , t o fi n d p e r s o n s w h o c a n n o t r e a d a n d w r i te I m m e n s e .
nu m b e r s o f b o o ks a r e p ubli s h e d i n N e w Y o r k a n d P hil a d e lphi a ,

a n d t h e i r n e w s a p e r s a r e ci r c u l a t e d th r o u gh t h e wh o l e c o u n t r y
p .
I n t h e S ou th er n s ect i o n o f th e U n i o n , th er e a r e g e n e r a lly p r o
vi s i o n s fo r s ch o o l s , b ut th e p o p ul a ti o n i s s o t h i n , th a t m a n y
h a v e l e s s a dv a n t a g es fo r e du c a ti o n th a n a t th e N o r th A m o n g
’
.
ED UC A TI ON — A G RI C U LT UR E
. .
th e white s , th er e a r e a fe w w h o c a n n o t r e a d : a m o n g t h e bl a ck s
it i s g e n e r a lly di s c o ur a ge d . S
o m e o f th e c o ll e g es a r e w e ll e h
d o w e d , a n d h a v e m a n y s ch o la r s I n th e Wes t er n S t a t es a ll i s
.
d o n e fo r e d u c a ti o n , th a t w e ll c a n b e , in th ei r p r e s e n t s c a tter e d
c o n d iti o n T h e i m p o r t a n c e o f t h e s ub j e ct is d uly a p p r e m a te d
.
by e v er y l e gi s l a t ur e, a n d th e n um b er o f n a tiv e i n h a b i ta n ts w h o
c a n n o t r ea d o r w r ite , i s n o t l ar g e C o ll e g e s a n d s e m i n a r i e s o f
.
l e a r n i n g, a r e r i s i n g with gr e a t r a pidi ty in th e W es t .
D r R e e d , a fter h a vi n g d es c r i b e d s o m e o f o u r c o lle gl ate

.
s ch o o l s , a n d v e n a li s t o f th e i r n a m es , r e m a r k s t o h is c o r r e s
'
d t “ I t i k will t b bl t p a s s y o u r e e o v e r
p o n e n ,
n y o u n o e a e o y
th i s li s t, a n d th e p r e vi o u s s t a te m e n t s , a n d c o n n e ct th e m with th e
ci r c um s t a n c e s o f th e p e o pl e , with o u t b e i n g fill e d with s u r p r i s e
a n d a d m i r a ti o n . H e r e a r e n o l es s th a n tw e n ty o n e th e o l o gi c a l
-
c o ll e ge s , a ll o f whic h h a ve b e e n i n s titu t e d s i n c e th e y e a r 1 808

a n d t h e y c o n t a i n 8 53 s tu d e n t s , a n d h a v e a c c u m ul a t e d
v o l u m es ! H ‘
e r e a r e s even t yy ic e c o ll e ge s fo r g en er a l e d u c a ti o n ,
m o s t o f th e m wi th p r o fes s i o n a l d e p a r t m e n t s , a n d th e y h a v e
s tu d e n t s fo r t y o f th e s e h a ve b e e n c r e a t e d s i n c e th e y e a r
1 8 1 4 ! A lto ge th er t h er e a re n in et y s i x c o lle ge s , a n d n o l e s s
- -
th a n s tu d e n ts ! S o m e o f th e s e c o lleges ar e lit e r a lly

s p r i n gi n g u p in th e d e s er t, a n d a r e p u tti n g th e m s e lv e s i n
r e a di n es s to bl e s s e n e r a tio n s th a t s h a ll b e b o r n ! It i s i m
p o s s ibl e n o t to fe el t a t th e i n fl uen c e th ey e x e r t m us t b e a m a
zi n g in e xte n t, a n d i n th e hi gh e s t d e g r e e s a nito ry .
T h e U n i t ed S t a t es i s es s en ti a lly a n a gr i cu ltur a l co un tr y By
.
fa r t h e l a r ges t p r o p o r ti o n o f th e p e o pl e a r e e n ga ge d di r e ctly i n
a g r ic u lt ur e .M o s t o f thi s cl a s s a r e o wn e r s o f t h e s o il The
.
e xt e n t a n d c o n diti o n o f th e c o un t r y , o f c o ur s e, i n vit e t o t h e
O ur a m pl e d o m a i n , w ith i m m en s e t r a ct s o f
‘
a b o v e p ur s uit .
wil d er n ess , a n d n ew l a n d s , d em a n d s c ultiv a ti o n T h e r a w .
m a ter i a l fo r m an u fa ctu r e , m ay b e r a i s e d t o a n u n li m ite d e x

te n t F o r m a n y ge n er a ti o n s t o c o m e , a c o n ti n u a lly i n c r e a s i n g
.
a m o u n t o f p r o d u cts m ay b e r a i s e d a n d r a i s e d with p r o fit .
,
F a r m i n g, i n cl u d i n g th e v a r i e ti es o f g r a z i n g , till i n g , a n d pl a n t
in g, is , p r o p e r ly s p e a ki n g, th e gr e a t e m pl o y m e n t o f th e c o u n tr y .
E xc e pt th e s l a v e s i n th e S
o u t h , th er e a r e c o m p a r a tiv e ly fe w
m e r e o p e r a tiv e s , o r th o s e w h o liv e o n ly by d a ily l ab o r o n
far m s ; fo r a l m o s t e v e r y l ab o r er p o s s e s s e s a t l e a s t a s m a ll
p a tc h o f l a n d o f h is o w n .
E ver y u a li ty of s oi l m ay b e fo un d i n th e U n ite d S
t a t e s,
fr o m u tt er a r r en n e s s , to th e high e s t d egr ee o f fe r tility The
.
S
E a s t e r n ta te s a r e u n d er th e b e st c ul t iv a ti o n , y et h e r e th e s o il
i s c o m p a r a tiv ely p o o r , a n d b e tt e r a d a pt e d t o a z in g th a n til
S
l a ge T h e r ich e s t s o il s a r e in th e o u th er n a n d e s te r n ta te s
. S .
G e n er a lly , th e l a n d s b o r d e r i n g o n t h e A tl a n tic , a r e i n fe r i o r in
fe r tility t o th o s e w e s t o f th e A p a l a c h i a n m o u n t a i n s .
” A s a d a pt
e d t o t h e qu a lity o f th e i r s o il , th e c hi e f a g r ic ul tu r a l o c c up a
S
ti o n s in th e E a s ter n t a tes , a r e g r a z i n g a n d th e d a i r y T h e .
S
M iddl e t a t es a r e p r i n cip a lly d e v o t e d to th e c ul tiv a ti o n o f
46 U NI V E R S A L T R A VELLER .
S
w h ea t a n d m a i z e t h e o u th e r n to th a t o f to b a cco, co tton , s ug a r ,
a n d r i c e ; a n d th e W e s t er n t o m a i z e a n d wh ea t V a s t qu a n t i .
t i e s o f s wi n e ar e fa tte n e d in t h e W e s t er n t a te s , fo r th e o u th S S
e r n m a r k e t a n d t hi s , in th e c a r e a n d t r a n s p o r t a ti o n o f t h e a r
,
t ic le, giv e s e m pl o y m e n t to m a n y p e o pl e i n th o s e t a te s T h e S .
l a b o r o f s l a v e s , i s c h i e fly e m pl o y e d in th e o u th e r n ta te s , a n d S S
in s o m e o f th e M i ddl e a n d W e s te r n A g r ic u ltu r e a s a n a r t i s
.
'
a d v a n ci n g a m o n g u s A s a m e a n s o f i m p r o v e m e n t o n thi s
.
s ub j e ct o f c o m p a r a tiv ely m o d er n o r igi n , fe w h a v e p r o v e d

m ore ci e n t, a n d e vid e n tly us e ful , th a n A gr ic u lt ur a l S o ci e
e ffi
ti e s e xhibiti o n s o r a s th ey a r e c o m m o n ly c a ll e d C a ttl e S h o w s
’
, , .
A l ar ge n um b e r o f th e p e o pl e o f th e U n ite d S t a tes a r e e m
pl o y e d a l s o i n th e m ech a n i c a r ts e ith e r wh o lly, o r in p a r t
, .
O fte nti m e s th e b r a n ch es o f m e c h a n i s m a r e p ur s ue d in c o n
n ex io n w ith a gr ic ult u r e Eith er o c c up a ti o n is fo ll o w e d a fte r
.
,
a m e ch a n ic a r t o r fa r m i n g h a s b e en l e a r n e d a s o pp o r t u n ity ,
o r n e c e s s ity m a y d ict a t e H en c e, a gr e a t a m ou n t o f m e c h a n
.
ic a l l a b o r i s p er fo r m e d in a gr ic u ltur a l di s t r ict s , a n d by a g r i
c u ltur i s t s , o r th o s e w h o a r e s uc h , th e g r e a te s t p a r t o f th e y e a r .
F o r e ig n er s w h o c o m e to vi s it u s , a r e s ur p r i s e d t o s ee to h o w ,
m a n y s o r t s o f b us i n es s w e c a n t ur n o ur h a n d s , o r h o w r e a dily ,
a ft e r w e h a v e fitt e d o u r s e lv es fo r o n e p r o fes s i o n w e c a n t a k e ,
U p a n o th er T h a t fo r m o f t h e m e ch a n ic a r ts which i s i n c lu
.
,
d e d i n m a n u fa c tu r e s , o cc u pi es a c o n s i d er a bl e a m o u n t o f p o p
u l a t io n a n d it is c o n ti n u a lly i n c r e a s i n g
,
T h e E a s ter n a n d .
M i d d l e S t a t e s i n cl u d e t h e p r i n cip a l p o r ti o n o f th o s e w h o a r e
e m pl o y e d i n m a n u fa ctu r e s .
M er ca n ti l e a n d com m er ci a l p u r s u i ts o cc u py m ultit u d e s o f
p e o pl e in th e U n it e d S t at e s a n d m a n y a r e e m pl o y ed in n a vi
,
g a ti n g o u r r ive r s , b ay s c o a s ts a n d a b o ve all, th e o c e a n T h e
, ,
.
cl a s s e n g a g e d i n t r a d e a n d c o m m er c e a r e ge n e r a lly o u r r ic h ,
‘
e s t citiz e n s W e a lth h a s p o u r e d i n u p o n th e m a p a c e , o f l a te
.
y e ar s It i s h o w e v e r o n ly a s m a ll p r o p o r ti o n o f th e cl a s s ,
.
, ,
th a t s uc c e e d i n b us i n e s s , b ut th o s e w h o d o e nj o y t h e o p ul en c e ,
o f p r in ces .
T h e l ea r n ed r of es s i on s in thi s c o u n tr y a r e w ell fill e d i n ge n

er a l. T h a t 0 m e dici n e is o v e r fl o wi n g T h e n u m b e r a l s o .
w h o a r e e m pl o y e d i n t h e b u s i n e s s o f i n s tr u c tio n i n o ur u n ive r
s iti es ,
c o ll e g es , a c a d e m i e s b o a r d i n g s ch o o l s s e l e ct s ch o o l s
, , ,
a n d c o m m o n s ch o o l s i s v er y c o n s i d er a bl e a s th es e i n s ti tu
, ,
ti o n s i n th e U n it e d S t a tes h a v e m u ltipli e d o f l a te y e a r s b e y o n d ,
a ll e x a m pl e .
I n fi n e , th er e i s n o w a n t o f e m pl o y m e n t to t h e p e o pl e o f this
c o un t r y T h e r e i s s o m e b r a n c h o f b u s i n e s s m o r e o r l es s lu
.
c r a tiv e t o whic h e v e r y o n e m a y di r e ct h i s a tt e n ti o n
,
F ew .
n e e d t o b e u n o cc u pi e d fr o m d e fici e n cy o f p a t r o n a g e , a n d h a p
,
pily fe w er s till w h o c a n a ffo r d to b e i d l e .
T h e g o ver n m en t of th e U n i t ed S ta t es is th a t o f a c o n fe d er a
t e d r e p ubli c T h e a d m i n i s t r a ti o n o f t h e g o v e r n m e n t is c o n fi
.
d e d to th r ee s e p a r a te d e p ar tm en ts T h ese ar e th e l e gi s l a tive .
.
U NI V ER S A L T R A VELLER . 47
G O V E R N M E N T — P O WE R S OF C ONG R E S S
. .
th e ex ec u tiv e , a n d t h e j u d ici a l T h e l eg is la ti ve p o w er i s ves te d .
i n a C o n gr e s s w h ic h c o n s i s t s o f a S e n a t e a n d H o u s e o f R e p
,
r e s e n t a t iv e s T hi s b o dy m u s t a s s e m bl e a t l e a s t o n c e e v er y
.
y e a r o n th e fi r s t M o n d a y o f D e c e m b e r u n l e s s it i s o th e r w i s e
, ,
p r o vi d e d by la w T h e S en a t e is c o m p o s e d o f t w o m e m b e r s
.
fr o m e a c h s t a te a n d o f c o u r s e th e p r es en t r e gu l a r n u m b e r i s
,
fo r ty e ight
-
T h e y a r e ch o s e n fo r s ix y e a r s b u t d i v i d e d i n t o
.
,
cl a s s es s o th a t o n e thi r d o f th e S e n a te i s r e n e w e d o n c e i n t w o
,
y e ar s N o p er s o n c a n b e e l e cte d wh o is n o t thi r ty y e a r s o f
.
,
a ge ,
a n d w h o h a s n o t b ee n a citiz e n fo r n i n e y e a r s Th e .
S e n a te h a s th e s o l e p o we r t o tr y a ll i m p e a ch m e n t s a n d th e ,
Vic e —P r e s i d e n t o f th e U n ite d S t a t es i s P r es i d e n t o f th e S e n a t e ,
.
I n t h i s b o dy h o w e v e r h e h a s o n ly a c a s ti n g v o t e whic h i s
, , ,
iv e n i n c a s e o f a n e qu a l d ivi s i o n o f th e v o t e s o f th e S e n a t o r s
g .
I n h is a b s e n c e a P r e s i d e n t p r o t emp o r e i s c h o s e n by th e S e n a te .
T h e Ho u s e of R ep r es en t a t i v es i s c o m p o s e d o f m e m b e r s fr o m
th e s e v e r a l s t a t e s c h o s e n b y th e p e o pl e fo r th e t e r m o f t w o
,
y e a r s N 0 p er s o n i s q u a lifi e d to b e a m e m b e r w h o is u n d e r
.
,
tw e n ty fi v e y e a r s o f a ge a n d w h o h a s n o t b e e n fo r s e v e n
-
,
y e a r s a citiz e n o f th e U n it e d S t a t e s T h e R e p r e s e n t a tiv e s a r e .
a pp o r ti o n e d a m o n g t h e d i ffe r e n t S t a t e s a cc o r di n g t o p o p a l a ,
ti o n T h e p r e s e n t r a t e o f r e p r e s e n t a ti o n i s o n e r e p r e s e n t a
.
,
tiv e fo r e v e r y p er s o n s c o m p u t e d a c c o r d i n g t o t h e r ul e
,
p r e s c r i b e d by t h e C o n s tit uti o n B y thi s r ul e th r ee fi ft h s o f th e .
,
s l a v e s a r e i n cl u d e d T h e p r e s e n t r e ul a r n u m b e r i s 2 4 0 r e p
.
,
r es e n t a ti v e s a n d th r e e d e l e g a t es
,
A l b ill s fo r r a i s i n g a r e v e .
n ue ,
m u s t o r i gi n a t e i n t h e H o u s e o f R e p r e s e n t a tiv e s A ny .
bill p a s s e d i n C o n gr e s s m a y b e c o m e a la w with o u t th e a p
,
p r o b a ti o n o f th e P r es i d e n t i f a fte r h e r e tur n s it i t s h a ll b e r e
, , ,
c o n s i d e r e d a n d a pp r o v e d by t w o thi r d s o f b o th H o u s e s .
S i n c e th e 4 th o f M a r ch 1 8 07 t h e comp en s a ti on o f e a ch m e m
, ,
b e r o f C o n g r e s s h a s b e e n e ig h t d o ll a r s a d ay d u r i n g th e p e r i o d ,
o f h i s a t t en d a n c e with o u t d e d u cti o n i n c a s e o f s i ck n e s s ; a n d
,
e i ght d o ll a r s fo r e v er y tw en ty m il e s tr a v e l i n t h e u s u a l r o a d
,
in g o i n g t o a n d r e t u r n i n g fr o m th e s e a t o f g o v e r n m e n t The .
c o m p e n s a ti o n o f th e P r e s i d e n t o f t h e S e n a t e p r o t emp or e a n d ,
o f t h e S p e a k e r o f t h e H o u s e o f R e p r e s e n t a tiv e s is s ixt e e n ,
d o ll a r s a d a y .
T h e C o n g r es s h as p ow er to l a y a n d c o ll e ct t a x e s d uti e s i m , ,
p o s t s , a n d e xci s e s t o p r o vi d e fo r th e c o m m o n d e fe n c e to b o r r o w
, ,
m o n ey o u t h e p u b lic c r e d it t o r e g ul a t e fo r e i g n a n d d o m e s tic
'
c o m m e r c e to m a k e b a nk r u pt l a w s c o i n m o n e y a n d p u n i s h
, , ,
c o u n te r fe iter s e s t a b li s h p o s t o ffi c e s a n d p o s t r o a d s s e c u r e
, ,
c o p y r i gh ts a n d p a t e n t r igh t s e s t a b li s h t r ib u n a l s i nfe r i o r t o th e
,
S u p r e m e C o u r t p u n i s h fe l o n i e s a n d pi r a ci e s c o m m itte d o n t h e
,
hi gh s e a s d e cl ar e w a r a n d g r a n t l e tte r s o f m ar que a n d r e p r i
, ,
s a l m a k e r u l e s c o n c e r n i n g c a pt ur e s r a i s e a n d S upp o r t a r m i e s
, , ,
p r o vi d e a n d m a i n t a i n a n a vy p r o vi d e fo r th e c a lli n g o u t o f th e ,
m iliti a to e x e c ut e t h e l a w s o f t h e U n i o n , s u pp r es s i n s u r r e cti o n s ,
a n d r e p e l i n v a s i o n s do c & c ,
. .
T h e E x ecu ti v e p o w e r is v e s t e d in a P r es id en t ch o s e n fo r th e
48 U NIVER S A L T R A VE LLER .
ter m of y e a r s T h e m a n n er o f h i s e l e cti o n is th e fo ll o w
fo u r .
in g . E a c h S t a t e a pp o i n ts i n a w a y p r e s c r ib e d by its l egi s l a
,
t ur e a n u m b er o f e l e ct o r s e qu a l to i ts wh o l e r e p r e s en t a ti o n in
,
th e S e n a t e a n d H o u s e o f R e p r e s e n t a tive s th es e m ee t in th e i r
r es p e cti ve S t a t e s , a n d v o t e by b a ll o t fo r P r e s i d e n t a nd Vic e
P r e s i d en t o n e o f wh o m m u s t n o t b e a n i n h abit a n t o f th e s a m e
,
S ta te with th em s e lv es T h e v o te s a r e th e n s e a l e d a n d s e n t to
.
t h e P r e s id e n t o f th e S e n a te w h o c o u n t s th e m b e fo r e b o th
,
h o u s e s o f C o n gr e s s T h e p e r s o n h a vi n g th e g r e a t e s t n u m b er
.
o f v o t e s i s P r e s i d e n t, i f s u c h n u m b er b e a m aj o r ity o f th e wh o l e
n u m b e r o f e l e c to r s ; o th er wi s e th e H o u s e o f R e p r e s e n t a tiv es
i m m e d i a te ly c h o o s e a P r e s i d e n t fr o m a m o n g t h e th r e e c a n d i
d a te s w h o h a v e th e r e a tes t n u m b er o f v o te s I n thi s e l e c ti o n .
,
t h e v o t e s ar e t a k e n y S t a t e s I f n o P r e s i d e n t i s th u s ch o s e n ,
.
th e Vic e P r es i d e n t p er fo r m s th e d u ti e s o f th e o ffic e
-
I f a Vic e .
P r e s i d e n t b e n o t c h o s e n by a m aj o r ity o f th e e l e ct o r s th e S e n ,
a te ch o o s e o n e fr o m th e t w o high es t m e m b er s o f th e li s t .
N 0 p er s o n c a n b e P r es id en t w h o is n o t a n a t ur a l b o r n citi
z e n , o r w h o w a s n o t a citiz e n a t th e ti m e o f t h e a d o pti o n o f
th e C o n s tit uti o n o r w h o i s n o t t h i r ty fi v e y e a r s o f a ge o r h a s
,
-
n o t b e en a r e s id e n t o f th e U n it e d S t a t e s fo r fo u r t ee n v o a r s .
T h e c o n d iti o ns o f b e i n g a Vic e P r es i d e n t a r e t h e s a m e
-
.
T h e P r e s i d e n t i s c o m m a n d er i n chi e f o f th e a r m y a n d n a vy
- -
,
a n d o f t h e m ili ti a wh e n i n t h e a ct u a l s er vic e o f th e U n it e d
S t a te s With th e a dvic e a n d c o n s e n t o f th e S e n a te, h e m a k e s
.
t r e a ti e s , a pp o i n ts a m b a s s a d o r s J u dge s o f th e S up r e m e C o u r t,
,
a n d o th er o ffic er s o f t h e U n it e d S t a t e s wh o s e a pp o i n t m e n t is ,
n o t o th er wi s e p r o vid e d in t h e C o n s ti t uti o n He ta k es c a r e th a t .
a ll t h e l a w s s h a ll b e e x e c u t e d a n d c o m m i s s i o n s a ll o ffi c e r s
,
.
T h e P r es i d e n t a n d Vic e P r e s i d e n t m a y b e r e m o v e d o n i m
-
p e a c h m e n t a n d c o n victi o n o f b r ib e r y , tr e a s o n , o r o th er hig h
c r i m es a n d m i s d e m e a n o r s .
T h e J u d i ci a l p o w e r o f th e U n ite d S t a tes is v e s t e d in o n e
s u p r e m e c o ur t a n d i n s u c h i n fe r i o r c o ur t s a s C o n g r e s s m a y
, ,
fr o m ti m e t o ti m e e s t ab li s h
,
T h e p r es e n t j u d ici a l e s t ab li s h
.
m e n t o f th e U n it e d S t a te s c o n s i s t s o f a s u p r e m e c o u r t t h i r ty
, ,
o n e di s tr ic t c o ur s a n d s e v en ci r c u it c o u r t s w h ich a r e th u s
t , ,
o r g a n iz e d : th e S u p r e m e C o ur t i s c o m p o s e d o f o n e c hi e f j u s -
tic e a n d s ix a s s o ci at e jp s ti c es , w h o h o l d a c o ur t i n th e ci ty o f
W a s hi n gt o n , a n n u a lly b es id e s which e a ch o f th e s e j u s tic e s ,
a tt e n d s i n a c er t a i n ci r c uit , c o m p r i s i n g t w o o r m o r e d i s t r ict s ,
a pp r o p r i a t e d t o e a c h a n d t o g e t h er wi t h t h e j u d g e o f th e d is
, ,
tr i c t c o m p o s e s a ci r c u it c o ur t whic h i s h e l d i n e a c h d i s t r ic t
o f t he c i r c u it
,
. T h e d i s t r ict c o u r t s ar e h e l d r e s p e c tiv e ly b y ,
th e d i s tr ict j u d ge s a l o n e E a c h S t a t e is o n e d i s t r ic t, fo r th e
.
p ur p o s e o f h o l d i n g d i s tr ict a n d ci r c u it c o u r ts t h er e i n W i t h t h e ,
e xc e pti o n o f N e w Y o r k P e n n s ylv a n i a Vi r gi n i a T en n es s ee
, , , ,
L o u i s i a n a a n d A l ab a m a e a c h o f which is d ivi d e d i n t o t w o
,
d i s tr icts .T h e j ud ge s h o l d th e i r o ffi c e s d u r i n g g o o d b e h a vmr ,
a n d c a n b e r e m o v e d o n ly o n i m p e a ch m e n t .
U N I V E R S A L T R A V E LLER . 49
S UPP O RT OF R LI G I ON — R LI G I O U
E . E S D E NO M I N ATI ON S .
In a ll f
th e S t a t es f
th e U n i on , th e s up or t o r el igi o n , w hi c h
s c r iptu r es i s n o w l e p en ti r e ly t o th e vo lu n
o
is th a t o f th e h o ly ,
t ar y c h o ic e a n d g o o d w ill o f th e p e o pl e N o p er s o n i s oo m .
lle d t o j o i n o r b e cl as s e d w ith o r a s s o ci a te d t o a ny r e l i gi o us
p e , ,
c o m m un i o n c h u r ch o r c o n g r e g a ti o n, o r (with o u t h a v mg p r e
.
,
v io us ly giv e n h i s c o n s e n t ) t o p ay fo r t h e s u pp o r t o f m i n i s te r s
o f r e li gi o n fo r th e m a i n t e n a n c e o f p ublic w o r s h i p , o r fo r th e
.
,
bu ildi n g o r r e p a i r i n g o f ch u r c h e s .
I n s o m e p a r t s o f th e c o un t r y e s p e ci a lly i n th e n e w s e ttl e ,
m e n t s , a n d in di s tr ic ts i n which th e i n h a bit a n ts a r e m u ch s c a t
t er e d a n d t h e s t a t e o f s o ci e ty a n d e d u c a ti o n is b a ck w a r d th er e
, ,
i s a r e a t w a n t o f r eligi o u s i n s tr u cti o n I n th es e p ar ts th e r e .
,
a r e e w r e gul a r o r s e t tl e d cl er gy m e n a n d th e m i n i s t e r s w h o ,
a r e fo u n d h e r e , e xc e pt o cc a s i o n a l iti n er a n t p r e a ch er s a r e a , ,
c a t p ar t o f th e m a t l e a s t i n c o m p e t e n t o r ill q u a lifi e d fo r th e i r
, ,
-
u tie s a n d th ey r e c e iv e b ut littl e c o m p e n s a ti o n ; b u t th e citi es

, ,
a n d a l s o th o s e p o r ti o n s o f th e c o u n t r y i n which th e s t a t e o f ,
s o ci e ty is m o s t a dv a n c e d a r e a s w e ll s u ppli e d w ith m i n i s t e r s
,
a n d with th e m e a n s o f r e li gi o n a s p e r h a p s a n y p a r t o f Ch r i s ,
t e n d o m ; a n d t h e cl e r gy o f th e s e v er a l d en o m i n a ti o n s g e n er a l
ly r e c e iv e a c o m p e t e n t s u pp o r t C o ns id er in g th e r e ge n er a te d
.
c h a r a c ter o f th e m i n i s try th ey a r e b e tte r s uppli e d th a n e v e n

,
i n G r e a t B r it a i n I n th e s e p o r ti o n s o f th e c o u n tr y r e ligi o n
.
,
d o u btl e s s e x er ts a s m u c h i n fl u e n c e a s i n a n y p a r t o f t h e w o r l d ,
a s i s i n d ic a t e d by th e v o l u n t a r y s u pp o r t which is giv e n t o it,
t h e n u m b er o f c o m m u n ic a n ts th e e n er al o b s e r v a n c e o f t h e
,
S ab b a th th e h abit o f a tte n d in g p u lic w o r s hip a n d th e lib e
,
‘
,
r a li ty a n d z ea l m a n i fe s t e d i n p r o m o ti n g o bj e ct s of r e ligi o u s
a n d b e n e v o l e n t e n t e r p r i s e a s bibl e s o ci e ti e s , m i s s i o n a r y s o ci e
,
ti e s S u n d a y s ch o o l s a n d th e lik e
, , .
T h e m e a n s fo r th e s u pp o r t o f th e m i n i s ter s o f th e s e v e r a l
d e n o m i n a tio n s a r e o bt a i n e d by s ub s c r ipti o n c o n tr ib uti o n , ,
r e n t s o f p e ws fr o m th e i n c o m e o f fun d s which a r e p o s s e s s e d
, ,
by m a n y c h u r c h e s a n d c o n gr e ga ti o n s a n d t a x e s o r a s s e s s ,
m e n t s u p o n t h e m e m b er s o f r e li gi o u s s o ci e ti e s o r c o n g r e g a
ti o n s a pp o r ti o n e d a cc o r di n g to p r o p er ty T h e d e n o m i n a
, .
ti o n s w h o s e m i n i s t er s a r e s u pp o s e d to b e b e s t s upp o r te d ar e ,
t h e C o n gr e ga ti o n a li s ts i n cl u di n g t h e U n it a r i a n s th e s e v e r a l
, ,
d ivi s i o n s o f t h e P r e s byt er i a n s a n d th e E pi s c o p a li a n s , Th e .
m i n i s t e r s o f th e B a pti s t d e n o m i n a ti o n a s w e ll a s th o s e o f s o m e ,
o th e r s h a v e a v e r y c o m p e t e nt s u pp o r t i n t h e citi e s a n d l a r g e
,
to wn s . L e M e th o d i s t m i n i s tr y h a s a s u pp o r t o f a t o l er a bly
e ffici e n t ki n d a lth o u h th er e a r e s o m e p e c uli ar iti es a tt e n di n g
g ,
th e m eth o d .
T h e p r i n cip a l r eli g i o us d en om i n a ti on s i n thi s c o un tr y a r e

, ,
1 C o n gr e g a ti o n a li s ts ; 2 P r e s byt er i a n s
; 3 R e fo r m e d D u tc h
.
. .
C h u r ch ; 4 A s s o ci a te P r e s byter i a n C h u r c h ; 5 A s s o ci a te R e
.
.
fo r m e d C h ur c h ; 6 C u m b er l a n d P r e s b yte r i a n ; 7 G e r m a n R e~
.
fo r m e d C h u r ch ; 8 B a pti s t s ; 9 M e th o d i s t E pi s c o p a l C h ur c h ;
.
. .
1 0 M e th o d i s t P r o t e s t a n ts ; 1 1 P r o te s t a n t E pi s c o p a l Ch ur ch
;
.
.
1 2 R o m an C a th o lic C h ur ch
.
13 Ev an g e lic a l L ut h er a n .
5
U N IT E D TA T
S ES .
C hu r c h 1 4 Ch ur c h o f th e
. e U n it d B
r eth r e n ; 1 5 U n ita r i a n s
; .
1 6 U n iv e r s a li s t s
. 1 7 N e w J e r us a l e m Ch ur ch ; 1 8 F r i e n d s ;
.
.
1 9 S h a k e r s ; 20 J e ws
. T h es e a r e n o t h er e m e n ti o n e d in th e
. .
o r d e r o f th e i r i m p o r t a n c e o r n u m b e r s a n d s o m e fe w s e ct s n o t
,
m en ti o n e d a b o ve , m ay p er h a p s b e fo u n d in th e c o un try .
2 . IN D I A N T RI B E S .
I n th e p r e c e di n g s ur v e y o f t h e U n it e d S t at e s , w e h a v e d e
ta in e d o ur fe ll o w t r a v e ll e r s l o n g e r th an w e o r i gi n a ll y d es i gn
e d ; b u t w e t r u s t th a t it h a s b e e n n e i t h er u n pl e a s a n t, n o r u m
p r o fit a b l e ; It i s b e fit ti n g th e tr a v e ll e r to b e c o m e s o m e wh a t
,
m i n ut e y a c q u a i n t e d wit h h is o w n c o u n tr y , b e fo r e a tt e m pti n g
l
t o a c q ui r e a k n o wl e d ge o f o th e r s With thi s i n fo r m a ti o n, h e
.
will b e b e tter a bl e to a pp r e ci a te th e m a n n er s a n d c u s t o m s , th e
i n s tit uti o n s , l a ws , g o v e r n m en t, &c , whic h h e m ay o b s er v e i n .
o th e r l a n d s .
O th e r p o r ti o n s o f o u r te r r ito r y r em a i n to b e s ur v ey e d ,
th o s e o n which n e i t h e r civiliz a ti o n s ci e n c e n o r r eligi o n h a ve , ,
y e t s h e d th e i r li ght N u m e r o u s Abo r i g i n a l T r ib es a r e s c a tte r

.
e d o v er th e i m m e n s e r e gi o n s o f th e w e s t ; a n d t o s o m e o f o u r ,
fe ll o w t r a v e ll er s a p r o l o n g e d vi s it a m o n g t h e m m ig h t b e c o n
,
s i d e r e d e v e n m o r e d e s i r a b l e t h a n t h e fa r d i s t a n t v o y a g es ,
whic h w e ul tim a t ely c o n t e m pl a te I n fo r m a ti o n h o w e v e r r e .
, ,
s p e cti n g t h e I n di a n s o f th e U n it e d S t a t e s a b o u n d s a n d h e n c e, ,
l es s m i n uten e s s m a y with p r o p r i e ty b e o b s er v e d in r e g ar d to
, ,
th e m B e s i d e s a n e xte n d e d a cc o u n t o f t h e s e ver a l tr i b e s
.
,
w o u l d o c c upy th e wh o l e ti m e whic h w e p r o p o s e to d e v o t e t o
,
o u r p er e gr i n a ti o n s a n d w o u l d fill t h e v o l u m e whic h i s t o r e
, ,
c o r d t h e r e s u lt s o f o u r t r a v el s W e s h a ll th e r e fo r e r es tr ict
.
, ,
o ur s e lv e s to a fe w ge n er a l r e m a r k s u p o n t h e I n di a n s , a s a r a c e .
Th e l n d i a n s i n th e U n i t ed S t a t es a r e s e p a r a t e d i n t o s e v er a l
f
g r ea t a m i li es , a n d th es e i n to a n u n a s c e r t a i n e d n u m b er o f d is
t i n c t tr i b es T h e A lg o n qu in o r C h ip p ew a y fa m ily , i s o n e , whic h
.
i s m o s t wid ely di ff us e d T o thi s b e l o n g th e N e w E n gl a n d

.
t r ib e s , th e D e l a w a r e s , th e I r o q u o i s , o r ix N a ti o n s , th e K n i s S
t en e a ux , o r C r e e s , S
a c s , F o x e s , 85 0 A n o th e r gr e a t I n d i a n .
r a c e i s th e S i o u x , o r D a co t a h Am o n g t h e b r a n ch es o f t hi s
.
fa m ily a r e th e Wi n n eb a go e s , O to e s , I o w ay s , M is s o u r ies , O m a .
w h a w s , K a n z as , O
s a g e s , a n d A s s in b o in s T h es e l a s t a r e .
s o m e ti m e s c a ll e d S
t o n e I n d i a n s A ll t h e s e t r ib e s s p e a k d ia
.
l e ct s o f th e D a c o ta h l a n gu a g e , wh i ch r a dic ally di ff e r s fr o m th e
A l go n q ui n .
In p th er e is s o m e v a r i ety a m o n g t h e I n
er s on a l ap p ea r a n c e
di a n s I n g e n er a l h o w e v e r , th ey h a v e a b r o n z e , o r C o pp er
.
,
c o l o r — c o a rs e , s tr a i ght, bl a ck h a i r , hi gh c h e e k b o n e s s u n k en ,
ey es , an d e r e ct fo r m h
t e of r e h e a d i s u s u a s o r —
lly h t th e c o un
U N IVE R S AL T R A VEL L ER . 51
I ND I A N TRI B ES .
— FOOD .
te ma n c o wid e n o s tr il s O p e n a n d lip s thick It w a s fo r m er ly

, ,
.
s a i d t h a t t h e I n di a n s w er e d e s titu t e o f b e a r d s
,
b u t thi s is n o t
n a tu r a l it h a vi n g b e en w e ll a s c er t a i n e d th a t th e y t a k e gr e a t
p a i n s t o pl u ck t h e b e a r d by th e r oo ts , s o o n a fter it m a k e s its
a pp e a r a n c e I n r e s p e ct t o s t at ur e, th er e i s c o n s id e r a bl e dif
.
fer e n c e a m o n g d i fl e r e n t tr ib e s .
T h e I n di a n s in N ew E n g la n d a r e r e d u c e d to an in c o n s id er
abl e n u m b er N e w Y o r k h a s withi n h e r t e r r it o r y th e r e m a i n s
.
o f a c e l e b r a t e d c o n fe d e r a cy , k n o w n b y t h e n a m e o f t h e S ix
N a ti o n s T h es e t o ge th e r w ith th e r e m n a n t s of a fe w o th er
.
,
tr ib es a m o u n t to a b o u t fi v e th o u s a n d M e a s u r es a r e in p r o
,
.
gr e s s b y t h e g e n er a l go v e r n m e n t fo r th e r e m o v a l o f t h e s e v e
,
r a l tr ib es whic h o c c u py t e r r it o r i e s a t t h e S o u th a n d W e s t, to
l a n d s w e s t o f th e M i s s i s s ippi S e v er a l tr ib e s h av e a l r e a dy
.
b e e n r e m o v e d t o th e i r n e w l o c a ti o n T h e C h e r o k e es a n d .
,
C r ee k s , h o w e v er s till r e m a in in G e o r gi a a n d th e a dj a c e n t p a r ts ,
,
a n d t h e S e m i n o l e s c o n ti nu e t o p o s s e s s th e i r l a n d s i n F l o r i d a ,
a lth o u gh s o m e ti m e s i n c e s o ld t o t h e U n it e d S t a t es , u n d er a n
a g r ee m e n t th a t th ey s h o u ld b e r e m o v e d , a t th e e xp e n s e o f th e
g o ver n m en t *
.T h e p r i n cip a l tr ib e s o f I n di a n s h o w e v e r , a r e ,
n o w t o b e fo un d w e s t o f t h e M i s s i s s ippi T h e whit e p o p ul a .
ti o n is g r a d u a lly en c r o a chi n g u p o n th e m , a n d a t n o di s t a n t d a y,
th e s e a n ci e n t p o s s ess o r s o f t h e A m e r i c a n s o il will e i th er b e
k n o w n n o m o r e , o r b e r e d uc e d to a few i n c o n s i d er a b l e r e m
n a nts .
T h e food of s u ch tr i b es a s i n h a bit th e i n ter i o r o f th e c o u n t r y ,

c o n s i s t s in ge n e r a l o f th e fl e s h o f s u c h a n i m a l s a s a r e t a k en
, ,
in th e c h as e A m o n m o s t tr i b es thi s is e i t h e r r o a s te d o r
.
,
b o il e d , m o r e ge n e r a l y th e fo r m e r ; b u t fr e qu e ntly th e y are
o blig e d t o c o n s u m e th e i r fo o d r a w I n ti m e s o f s c a r city , th e y
.
d o n o t h es it a te t o e a t e v e n th e e n t r a il s o f t h e a n i m a l s whic h
th e y h a ve kill e d R e s o r t is h a d a l s o to b er r i e s a n d r o o t s
. .
A m o n g s o m e tr ib e s , c o r n p o t a to e s , p u m pki n s , s q u a s h es , b e a n s ,
,
&c a r e e xt e n s iv ely c u ltiv a t e d

. T hi s l a s t r e m a r k a p pli es
.
c hi e fly to s u c h tr i b e s a s h a v e h a d i n te r c o u r s e with th e w hites .
C o r n , h o w e v e r w a s r a i s e d in c o n s i d er a bl e qu a n titi e s by th e
,
I n di a n s wh e n th e E n gli s h fi r s t s e t tl e d in th e c o un tr y T r ib e s .
whic h liv e in th e vi ci n ity o f l a k e s a n d p o n d s , s u b s i s t, in p a r t,

up o n fi s h A s s a v a g e s h a ve n o v es s e l s whic h will a d m it o f e x
.
p o s ur e to fi r e , t h e y m a k e u s e o f la r g e u p r i ght v e s s e l s i n whic h
to b o il th ei r fo o d , c o m p o s e d o f bi r c h r i n d S to n es r e d h o t a r e
-
.
p u t i n t o t h e w a t e r ,
which s o o n o c c a s i o n it t o b o il ,
a n d by co n
ti n n i n th e p r o c e s s , th e c o o ki n g is c o m lete d M o s t o f t h e .
tr ib es ein g d e p en d an t up o n a ccid en t fo r o o d , o fte n s u ffe r fr o m
Th e ti me fi x ed b y tr eaty for t h e r em o v a l o f t h e S em in o l es h a v i ng ar
ri v ed, t h ey h a v e r ef us ed t o go ; a n d, n s m g b y gen e r a l co n cer t ag ai n s t t h e
wh i te p o pu l ati o n , are a t t h is tim e (1 83 6) c arryi ng o n a m o s t s a nguin ary w ar
fare agai n s t t h e m T h e p ro m t an d deci s w e in terfere n ce o f t h e go v er n m e n t
k
.
i ll do ub t l es s so o n gi v e a ch ec v a s t h e I n di a n s h a v e de
w t o t h ei r r a ages
; b u t
‘p refer ex ter m i n a ti o n t o r e m o v a l , i t is h i gh l y p ro b ab l e t h a t th e
nl
a dad t h a t t
S emin oles I soo n li v e only m h is to ri cal record .
52 U NIVER S A L T R A V ELLER .
IND I AN TRI B ES .
wan t , and m a n y di e y e ar ly fr o m fa m i n e . In ti m es o f s c ar city ,

th e a ge d a nd h e lpl es s a r e s u ffer e d to p er i s h .
T h ei r a r ti cles of dr es s a r e g en er a lly comp os ed of th e s ki n s a nd ,
m a k e n in th e c h a s e T h ey c o n s i s t o f m o c c a
fu r s o f an i a l s t .
s i n s , l e ggi n s , t r o u s er s , &c o r o f such ar ticl es as th e y m a

.
y
h a v e o bt a i n e d fr o m th e E n lis h , i n e xch a n g e fo r th e ir fu r s
g
.
T h ey o ften fa s ten a b o u t a h a f a y a r d o f b r o ad cl o th , i f b y a n y
m ean s th ey h a v e o bt a i n e d it, by a gi r dl e r o un d th e i r w a i s ts ,
w hic h r e a c h e s to th e m i d d l e o f th e thigh a n d th e y th r o w a
bl a n k e t l o o s ely o v e r th e i r s h o uld e r s fa s t en i n g o r h o ldi n g it to :
g e th e r b y t h e u pp e r c or n er s S u c h a s w e a r s hi r ts h a v e t h e
.
,
c o ll a r s a n d w r i s tb a n d s a l w ay s o p e n B ut a ll th e s e c o v er i n gs
.
ar e l a id a s id e a t th e i r d a n c e s T h o s e w h o h a v e n o i n ter c our s e
.
with E ur o p e an s u s e s ki n s i n s t ea d o f cl o th gen e r ally i n a s p a

, ,
r i n g m a n n er F e w h a v e a n y c o ve r i n g fo r the i r thi gh s , b ut th e y
.
w e ar s t o cki n gs o f cl oth , o r s ki n s w ith a l o o s e pi e c e, t w o o r

,
th r ee i n ch es b r o a d h a n gi n g d o w n th e o u ts id e o f th e le a n d v a
,
-
r i o us ly o r n a m en t e d T h ei r s h o es m a d e o f th e s k in 0 th e d e e r ,
.
e lk, o r b u ffa l o , ar e v er y c o n v e n i e n t fo r w alki n g T h e w o m en .
w e a r a c o v er i n g fr o m t h e n e ck to th e k n ee s , s o m eti m es o f lin
e n , s o m e ti m es o f s ki n , o r l e a th e r , w hic h c o v er s t h e b o dy , b ut
n o t th e a r m s T h e i r s h o r t p e ttic o a ts a r e a ls o o f th e s a m e m a
.
te r i als ; a n d th e y w e a r s h o es a n d s to cki n gs o r n a m e n te d s i m i ,
l ar ly w ith th o s e o f th e m e n B o t h s ex e s t a k e m uc h tr o ub l e in
.
d e c o r a tin g th e i r h a i r w ith pl um e s o f fe a th er s p o r c u pi n e qu il ls , ,
a n d o th e r fa n ci ful a r ticl e s T h e m e n p a i n t t h e i r fa c e s r e d o r
.
bl a ck a n d h a v e v a r i o us figu r e s d es c r ib e d o n di ffer en t p ar ts o f
,
th ei r b o di es b ut th es e a r e n o t th e s a m e, wh e n th ey go t o w a r ,
a s a t o th e r ti m es S o m e m a k e l o n g s li ts in th e i r e a r s a n d
.
,
s tr e tc h th e l o b es , by m ea n s o f w e ight s , till th ey n e ar ly t o u c h
th e s h o ul d e r s w hic h is d e e m e d v er y b e c o m i n g
,
O th er s pi er c e .
th e c ar til a e o f t h e n o s e , a n d s u s p e n d o r n a m e n t s fr o m it T h
g e .
w o m en p ai n t th e ir fa c e s i n p a tch e s fr e que n tly pl a ci n g o n e ,

p a tc h b y e a c h e a r a n d s o m e ti m es a thi r d o n th ei r fo r e h e a d s
, .
T h ey a l s o a d o pt th e o r n a m e n ts o f th e o th er s ex M o s t tr ib e s .
s h a v e th e h a i r fr o m th e i r h e a d s with th e e xc e pti o n o f a tu ft o r
,
pl a t p a s s i n g fr o m th e fo r e h e a d t o th e b a ck o f t h e h e a d T h e .
Chipp e w a y s, h o we v er , w e ar th e i r h a i r in full , a nd fr e q uen tly

cl ub b ed .
Th e h a bi t a ti ons of th es e p eop l e c o n s i s t o f a fe w p o l es s tu ck in
th e g r o un d , fa s t e n e d t o g e th e r a t t h e t0p , a n d c o v e r e d wi t h
s ki n s ; w ith a n o p en i n g in th e s id e fo r a n en t r a n c e , a n d a s m a ll
h o l e a t th e to p fo r th e e r e s s o f s m o k e O r , w h e n th ey tr a v el , .
th ey er e ct a h ut with a e w b r a n c h e s o f tr e e s o r s h r ub s , c o v er .
ed with s ki n s o r l e a v e s S ki n s s p r e a d o n th e g r o un d c o n s ti
.
tute th e i r b e d s a n d wh e n th e h ut i s to o s m a ll fo r th e w h o l e
fa m ily to r e p o s e th us , a fr a m e i s m a d e o f a fe w s tick s , th r ee o r
fo u r fee t high , u o n w hic h th e c hild r e n a r e pl a c e d o ver th e
a d ults S om e 0 th e I n di an lo d ges o r h ab ita tions ar e o f a c o n i
.
U NIV E R S A L T R A VELLER . 53
A MU S E M E N T S — S UP E R S TITI O N S
. .
c al s h a p e, c o ver e d chi e fly with s ki ns A m o n g o th er

a nd ar e .
tr ib es a s th e Chipp e w ay s , th e l o d ge s a r e o f a n o bl o n g s h a p e ,
a n d in a dditi o n t o s ki n s , a r e c o v er e d W i th m a ts , b a r k s , & c
,
.
c n s i s t in r un n i n g, l e a pi n g,
Th e f
a m us em ents o o t h e I nd i a n s
wr e s tli n g s h o o ti n g, d a n ci n g &c T hi s l as t is a fa v o r ite ex er
, ,
.
ci s e a m o n g a ll th e tr ib e s a n d s c a r c ely e ver d o th e y a s s e m b le
,
o n a n y fes tiv e o c c a s i o n , b u t thi s m a k e s a p a r t o f th e i r e n t e r
t a in m e n t T h e i r d a n c es a r e o f v a r i o us ki n d s a m o n g whic h
.
,
a r e t h e m ar r i a g e d a n c e pip e d a n c e , w a r d a n c e , di s c o v e r y
,
d a n c e & c T hi s l a s t ki n d o f d a n c e w as p e r fo r m e d i n th e
,
.
,
~
y ear 1 82 1 , o pp o s ite th e h o u s e o f th e P r e s id e n t o f th e U n ite d
S t a tes , by a p ar ty o f I n di a n s , c o n s i s ti n g o f P a n i s O ttas a n d , ,
Kan s a s T h e w ar d a n c e is a c c o m p a n i e d wi th V i o l e n t g e s ti o n
.
la tio n s a n d c o n to r ti o n s a cc o m p a n i e d with s c r e a m s a n d y e l ls ,
,
w hic h n o n e b ut e x a s p e r a t e d s a v a g e s c o ul d utter .
L i ke a ll o th er s a va g es , th e N or th Am er i ca n I n d i a n s a r e ex
t r em ely s up er s ti ti ou s , p a yi n g gr e a t a t te n ti o n to d r e a m s a n d
o m e n s o f v a r i o u s ki n d s T h e y h a v e a l s o n u m er o u s m a gici a n s
.
an d s o o th s a y e r s , u p o n wh o s e p r e d icti o n s th ey pl a c e t h e u t m o s t
r e li a n c e , in a l m o s t e v e r y thi n g th a t r e l a t e s t o t h e s u c c e s s o f
th e i r u n d er t a ki n g s T h ey b e li e ve i n th e e xi s te n c e o f g o o d a n d
.
e vil ge n ii , fr o m w h o m a ll t h e h a ppi n es s o r m i s e r o f hum an

li fe p r o c e e d T h e y i n v o k e th e go d o f b a ttl e , b e o r e th e y go
.
o u t t o w a r ; a n d s o m e o f t h e t r i b es w o r s hip t h e c e l e s ti a l l u m i
n ar ie s B ut r e ligi o n i s n o t th e i r p r e v a ili n g ch a r a ct e r i s tic ; a n d ,
.
e xc e pt w h e n th e y h a v e s o m e u r ge n t o c c a s i o n fo r t h e a s s i s t
a n c e o f th e i r g o d s th e y p a y th e m lit tl e o r n o a tte n ti o n V a r i .
,
o u s s t o r i e s a r e r e l a t e d b y d i ff er e n t t r ib es , t o a cc o u n t fo r th e
c r ea ti o n o f t h e w o r ld T h e fo llo w in a n s w e r w a s m a d e to
.
M r M K e n n e y , by a Chipp e w a y c hi e t o wh o m , th r o u gh a n
.
‘
i n tr e p r e te r , h e h a d p u t th e q ue s ti o n , w h o m a d e th e w o r ld ? ”
T h e c hi e f r e pli e d , “ It w a s m a d e by N a n i boj o u N a n ib oj o u .
a n d t w o w o lv es w e n t o ut h u n ti n g
’
A fte r t h e fi r s t d ay s h un t,
.
o n e o f th e w o l ve s p a r te d a n d w e n t to t h e l e ft a n d t h e o th e r
, ,
c o n ti n ue d with N a n ib oj ou , a n d N a n ib o j o u a d o pte d h im as h is
s on .N a n ib oj o u, k n o wi n g th a t th er e w e r e d evil s i n th e l a k e , h e
a n d h is s o n w e n t to w a r with th e m a n d d es t r o y e d a ll th e d e v
,
ils th a t liv e d i n o n e l a k e , th e n p u r s u e d th e i r w ay h un ti n g b ut
e v er y d e e r t h e w o l f w o u ld s t a r t a n d
giv e c h a s e to , w o ul r un
i n t o a n o th e r o f th e l a k e s O n e d a y , t h e w o l f c h a s e d a d ee r
. .
It r a n u p o n th e i c e in th e l a k e ; a n d th e w o l f p ur s u e d it— th e
w e b r o k e in a t t h e m o m e n t, wh en th e w o l f h a d c a ught th e
d e er , a n d b o th fe ll i n T h e d e vil s c a u ght b o th th e w o l f a n d
.
t h e d e er , a n d d e v o u r e d th e m T h en N a n ib oj o u w e n t U p a n d
.
dow t h e l a k e s h o r e c r yi n g ; wh e n a l o o n i n t h e l a k e h ar d
n ,
e
N a ni b oj o u c r yi n g , a n d c a ll e d t o h i m to k n o w wh a t h e w as c r y
i n g ab o ut N a nib oj o u a n s w e r e d , th a t h e h a d l o s t h is s o n i n
.
t h e l a k e ; a n d th e Ic o n r e pli e d t h e d e vil s h a v e e a te n h im ; a n d
,
i f h e W a n t e d to s e e t he d e vil s h e m ight by i
, g o n g to a c e r t a i n
54 U N I V E R S A L T R AV EL L ER .
I NDI AN TRI B ES .
l am d evils w o u ld c o m e o u t th e r e to s un th e m s e lv es
th e
ga nib oj o u w en t a cc o r di n gly a n d s a w d evil s in all m a n n er o f
,
a s .
,
fo r ms ; i n th e fo r m o f s n a k e s , b e a r s , a n d o th er thi n gs ; a n d
w h en th e tw o h e a d d e vil s go t o ut o n th e b a n k th e y s a w s o m e ,
thi n g o f u n c o m m o n a pp e a r a n c e , a n d whic h th ey h a d n o t s e e n
b e fo r e , a n d h alti n g , th e y s en t a v e ry l ar ge d e vil in th e fo r m o f ,
a s n a k e t o s e e wh a t thi s s tr a n e s i ght w a s
, N a n ib o j o u s e e .
,
in g th e d e vil c o m i n g a s s u m e t h e a p p e a r a n c e o f a s tum p
,
Y
.
T h e d e vil c o m i n g u p , w r a pp e d hi m s e l f r o u n d it an d d r e w ,
u p o n it with a ll h is s t r e n gth a n d s q u e e z e d s o h a r d , th a t N a n ib o
,
j o u w a s o n th e p o i n t o f c r yi n g o ut wh e n th e d e vil u n c o il e d h i m ,
s e l f a littl e a n d th e n w o u n d r o u n d h i m a g a i n , a n d d r e w , i f p o s
,
s ibl e , h a r d e r th a n h e did b e fo r e a n d s o s e v er e did N a n ib oj o u

fee l th e p r e s s u r e to b e th a t h e w a s j us t a b o u t c r yi n g o u t wh e n
, ,
th e d e vi l r e l a x e d h i s h o l d a n d r e tu r n e d to h is c o m p a n i o n s ,
,
a n d t o l d th e m it w a s n o thi n g b u t a s t u m p B ut th e d ev il s w er e .
n o t s at i s fi e d — s o th e y s e n t a n o th er i n th e s h a p e o f a b ear t o tr y ,
w h a t h e c o ul d m a k e o f it T h e b ea r c a m e up to N a n ib oj o u,
.
a n d h u g ge d h im , a n d bit h im , a n d cl a w e d h im — a n d s o s e v er e
w a s th e b e ar o n h im , th a t h e w a s , a s b e fo r e o n th e p o i n t o f ,
c r yi n g o u t w h e n as b e fo r e th e b ea r r e l a x e d h is h o l d a n d fo r e
, , , ,
b o r e to bit e a n d t o s c r a tch He h o w e v e r , r e p e a t e d h is a tt a ck s ,
.
,
a n d it w a s with t h e g r e a t e s t d i ffic u lty N a n ib oj o u c o u l d fo r b e a r

to c r y o ut T h e b e a r r e tur n e d a n d to ld th e d e vil s it w a s n o th
.
i ng b u t a s t u m p Wh er e up o n t h e d e vil s a ll w e n t t o s l e ep i n
.
th e s u n as th e s n a k e s d o wh e n N a n ib oj o u , o n b e i n g c o n vi n c e d
,
th a t th e y w e r e all a s l e e p s h o t with ar r o w s t h e tw o gr e a t d e vil s
,
.
W h e n th e r e s t o f t h e d e vil s a w o k e , a n d fo u n d th e i r p r i n cip a l
d ev il s h a d b e e n kill e d th ey a ll p u r s u e d N a n ib oj o n with a gr e a t
,
fl o o d o f w a t er N a ni b oj o u h e a r i n g i t c o m i n g fl e d b e fo r e it,
.
,
a n d r a n fr o m hill t o hill u n til h e go t t o t h e to p o f t h e hi gh e s t

,
m o u n t a i n s a n d th er e cli m b e d t h e high es t pi n e t r e e h e c o u l d s e e
,
.
B u t th e w a t e r s fo ll o w e d h im t o t h e t o p o f thi s tr ee wh en h e ,
p r a y e d th a t t h e t r ee m ight r o w It did gr o w , b u t th e w a ter s .
r o s e s till hi h e r
g H e p r a ye. a g a i n b e i n g a l m o s t c o v e r e d with
w a te r it b ei n g n o w a l m o s t u p t o h i s chi n He p r a y e d a thi r d
,
.
ti m e b u t th e t r e e g r e w o n ly a littl e T h en l o o ki n g r o u n d h im
,
.
u op n t h e w a t e r s ,
h e s a w a n u m b e r o f a n i m a l s s wi m m i n g i n d i fi
fe r e n t d i r e cti o n s , a n d a m o n s t t h e m a b e a v er a n o tt e r a n d a , ,
m us kr a t He c a ll e d th e m r o th er s , a n d s a i d , c o m e to m e
. .
We m u s t h a v e s o m e e a r th , o r w e s h all all d ie T h e y c a m e .
n d t h e b e a v e r w e n t fi r s t a ft e r s o m e e ar th , b y divi n i nt o th e
a
wa t e r s , b ut d r o wn e d b e fo r e h e r e a ch e d th e b o tt o m e x t th e .
,
o tt e
‘
r w en t d o w n — h e go t withi n s ight o f l a n d b u t l o s t h is ,
s en s esb e fo r e h e go t a bit e o f it T he n th e m u s k r a t w e n t d o wn ,
.
a n d go t t o th e b o tt o m , a n d j u s t a s h e go t a b it e o f it, h e l o s t h i s
s e n s e s a n d fl o a t e d u p to th e t o p o f t h e w a t er
,
N a n ib oj o u h a d .
th e m a ll b r o ught to h im wh e n h e e x a m i n e d a ll th e i r cl a w s b e
, ,
gi n n i n g with t h e b e a v er , b ut fo u n d n o e ar th in a n y o f th e m ,
e xc e pt a littl e i n t h e m u s k r a t He t o o k it in h i s h a n d , a n d
.
r ubb e d it , a n d h e ld it u p t o th e s u n u n til it d r i e d , t h e n h e bl e w
i t all r o un d h im o v er th e w a t er a n d d r y l a n d a pp e a r e d ,
"
56 U N IVE R S A L TR A V ELL ER .
I N I A N TRI B
D ES .
e v e r , ar e n o t d e s titu te o f th e ki n d fe eli n gs whic h b el o n g to o u r ,

n a tu r e .H o s pita lity is e ver to b e fo un d in th ei r h uts a n d ten ts .
I f a s t r a n e r r e fus es t o p a r ta ke o f th e m e a l w hic h th e y h a v e
p r o vi d e d o r h im th ey a r e o ff e n d e d F e m a l e c a ptives a r e
,
.
a l w a y s t r e a t e d with a p e c u li a r d e gr e e o f d e lic a cy T h e m en .
s e l d o m e xp r e s s d e e p e m o ti o n b u t th e w o m e n o n th e l o s s o f, ,
fr i e n d s giv e v en t t o e v e r y e xp r e s s i o n o f g r i e f, b e a ti n g th e i r
,
r e a s t s t e a r i n g th e i r h a i r & c
, ,
.
N o r is th e s a v a ge w a r r i o r a l w a y s a bl e to r e p r e s s th e g e n tl er
fe e li n g s o f th e s o u l T h e a u th o r w a s o n c e h i m s e l f a witn ess
.
t o a s c e n e , whic h m ight w ell e m pl o y t h e p e n cil o f a W e s t, o r a

T r u m b ull I n t h e y e a r
. a d e p u t a ti o n fr o m s o m e o f t h e
tr i b e s w es t o f th e M i ss i s s ippi , V i s ite d t h e s ea t o f o ve r n m e n t,
a n d s e v e r a l o f t h e p r i n cip a l citi es i n th e U n it e d t a tes D u .
r i n g t h e j o u r n e y , th ey s t o pp e d a t a n inn , i n th e city o f H a r t
fo r d C o n n e ctic u t
,
T h e ci r c u m s t a n c e w as s o o n r u m o r e d
.
ab r o a d a n d n o t a fe w o f th e ci ti z en s h ur r i e d to th e s p o t , t o
,
c a tc h a V i e w o f th e s e s o n s o f th e W es t T h e c hi e fs w e r e .
d r es s e d in th e c o s t um es o f th e i r r e s p e ctiv e t r ib e s T h ey .
w er e s e a t e d in a s p a ci o u s r o o m a n d fo r a ti m e b o r e th e ,
g a z e o f t h e i n c r e a s i n g th r o n g with ki n d n e s s a n d g o o d w ill .
B ut a t l e n gth w e a r i e d with th e u n s a ti s fi e d c u r i o s ity o f th e

, ,
citiz e n s , o n e o f th ei r n um b er d i s ti n gu i s h e d fo r h is n o b l e fo r m
,
a n d l o fty p o r t r o s e ,
a n d s l o wly a d v a n ci n g to a t a bl e
,
to o k ,
fr o m it a n E n gli s h s w o r d a n d t u r n i n g t o w ar d s th e s p e c ta t o r s ,
,
w a v e d it s l o wly b a ck a n d fo r th — h is e y e s ki n dli n g a s h e c o n
ti nn e d t o m a i n t a i n h is dig n ifi e d p o s tur e He u t ter e d n o t a .
s yll a b l e , n o r w er e h i s lip s s e e n t o m o v e ; th e a cti o n w as s u f

fi c ie n t a n d t h e th r o n g s tr u ck with a w e, with o u t a m u r m u r , 01
, ,
a p a u s e r e ti r e d ,
.
T h e a u th o r hi m s e l f w a s o n ly a b o y , a n d h a pp en i n g t o o c cu
a c o r n e r o f t h e r o o m w a s a ll o w e d with a c o m p a ni o n or
py , ,
tw o to r e m a i n
,
T h e s w o r d w a s s o o n a g a i n o n th e t a b l e t h e
.
,
w a r r i o r r e t ur n e d to h i s s e a t a n d i n a fe w m o m e n ts th e c o u n
,
t e n a n c e whic h h a d b e e n li ghte d wi th a m a r ti a l fi r e , a s s u m e d
i ts u s u a l c a l m e xp r e s s i o n .
S h o r tly a fter , a m o th er with h e r chil d o f s o m e th r ee o r fo u r ,

y e ar s o f a ge m a d e h e r a pp e ar a n c e a t th e d o o r l e a d i n g i n to
, ,
an a dj o i n i n g r o o m T h e child p e e pi n g fr o m b e hi n d its
.
m o th e r s go w n e y e d th e s a v a g e c hi e fs with e a g e r y e t d is
’
, ,
t r us t ful cu r i o s ity , whil e th e m o th er ge n tly u r ge d it fo r w a r d t o ,
t ak e a b e tte r vi e w T h e a c ti o n c a ught th e a tt en ti o n o f s e v
.
e r a l o f th e c hi e fs , a n d a m o n g th e m th e w a r r i o r a l r e a dy
n a m e d T h
. e l a tt e r e xt e n d e d h is h a n d ,
a n d b e ck o n e d it t o a p
p r o a c h b ut it h e ld b a ck , a n d i n th e fo ld s o f its l ur ki n g pl a c e
hid i ts h e a d .
T h e r e w a s m a gic in th e a c t o f th e child an d it s e e m e d to ,
r e n d e r t h e w a r r i o r s till m o r e a n xi o u s t o s e e it A t l e n gth ta .
,
ki n g it i n h e r a r m s th e m o th er a pp r o a ch e d th e s p o t wh e r e th e
,
s a v e e w a s s e a t e d , a n d pl a c e d h er c hil d b e fo r e h im He i h .
t
s a n t y ,
b u t g e n tly ,
e xt e n d e d h is b r a w n y a r m a n d l a i d h i s h a n d ,
U N I V E R S A L T R A V ELL ER .
S T O RY OF A W T RN CHI
ES E E F .
’
up o n th e c hild s h e a d A t th e s a m e m o m e n t h e c as t a m o s t
.
,
e xp r e s s iv e l o o k t o w ar d s t h e m o th e r , a n d r a i s i n g h i s h a n d ,
i t d t h W d m l d i
?
p o n e t o e e s a n e t e n to t ea r s .
T h e c hi e f w a s a a th er , Os we ll a s a w a r r i o r ; a n d i f by vi r
tu e o f thi s l a tt er c h a r a cte r , h e w as a s u nb en d in a s th e o a k e n
t h e m o u n ta i n s b r o w— b y V i r tu e o f th e fo r m e r , e w a s a s ten
’
d e r a n d yi e ldi n g a s th e will o w by t h e w a t e r c o u r s e He r e w a s
-
.
d e light ful p r o o f th a t withi n th a t s a v a ge t a b e r na cl e, th er e w as a

, '
s o u l a liv e to a ll t h e t en d er s e n s ibili ti e s o f o ur n a t u r e Th e .
t r u th i s , th a t i nj u s tic e h as b e en d o n e to th e s a va e c h a r a cte r
i
.
T h e y a r e s a v a ge a n d c r u el fo r th e s ub d ui n ii i fl i e n c e o f th e
Th ey a r e illiter a te
,
go s p e l h as n e v er b e en e x er t e d u p o n th e m .
a n d d e gr a d e d b e c a us e t h e ligh t o f s ci e n c e th e m e a n s o f i n
, ,
s t r u cti o n th ey h a ve n e v er e nj o y e d
,
With th e s a m e a d v a n ta
.
s whic h N e wto n a n d G a lil e o e nj o y e d th ey m i ht h a v e p r o

g e , g
v e d a s e m i n e n t i n a s t r o n o m ic a l di s c o v e r y o r a s di s tin gu i s h e d
in phil o s o phy a s w e r e B a c o n a n d L o ck e With all th e i r dis
.
a dv a n t a ge s , w h a t n a ti o n b o a s t o f n o bl e r w a r r i o r s , o r o f m o r e
e l o q ue n t o r a t o r s F o r c o ur a ge o r a ddr e s s in w ar P hilip a n d ,
T e c u m s e h w o u ld c o m p ar e wi th N a p o l e o n o r W e lli n gto n ;
C o r n P l a n ter a n d R e d J a ck e t, w o ul d a pp e a r little i n fer i o r in
t r ue e l o q ue n c e to Cic e r o o r D e m o s th e n e s O v e r th e i r r u d e .
b u r i al pl a c e s w e m ight e xcl a im , in th e b e a u ti fu l l a n g ua ge o f
,
th e p o e t, a n d with a s m uc h p r o p r i ety a s w h e n s tan d in g by t h e
gr a v es o f c ivili z e d m e n
P erh ap s in th i s n eglec ted sp o t is l ai d
S o m e h ear t o n ce r eg n a n t Wi t h cel es ti al fi re ;
Han ds th at th e re o f e m p i re m i h t h a v e s w ayed ,
O r w ak d t o ec s t as y t h e li v i n g yrs
’
.
T h e n a t i ve i ns tr u m en ts of w a r a r e th e b o w a n d a rr o ws , th e
t o m a h a wk , a n d th e s c a lpi n g k n i fe S i n c e th e i n tr o d u cti o n o f
.
m u s k e t s a m o n g th e m , m a n y t r ib e s h a v e l a i d a si d e th e b o w s a n d
a r r o w s ; t h e t o m a h a wk i s a ki n d o f b a tt l e a x e , t h e h a n dl e o f -
w hic h , h a vi n g a h o ll o w tub e d o w n its wh o l e l en gth , a n d a b o wl

a t t h e e n d , s e r v e s a s a t o b a c c o pip e ; fo r th e s e s a v a g e s a r e fo n d
o f s m o ki n g . With th e s c a lpi n g k n i fe , w hic h th e w ar r i o r s a l
w ay s w e a r s us p en d e d a b o u t th e i r n e ck s , t h e y c ut a ci r c ul a r
g a s h r o u n d th e c r o w n o f t h e h e a d o f th e i r p r i s o n er s o f w a r ,
’
a n d th e n t e ar o fi th e s ki n a n d h a i r , whic h th ey b e a r a w a y a s
l a w ful p r i z e B y th es e s c a lp s th ey r e ck o n th e n um b er o f th ei r
.
p r i s o n er s .
As th e I n di a n s a r e u n a cqu a i n t ed wi th l et ter s , th ei r h is to r y is
p r i nc i p a l lyp r es er v ed b y tr a di ti on T h e y h a v e
. n o di vi s i o n o f
tim e i n t o w ee k s , b u t r e ck on d a y s by s leep s h a l f d a y s , by
p o i n ti n g a t th e s un a t n o o n a n d qu a r t er s by h i s r i s i n g a n d s et
tin g M a n y i n th e n o r th , r e ck o n t h e i r y e a r s by s n o ws o th er s,
.
in m o r e s o uth e r n d i s tr icts , by m o o n s , o f w hic h th ey es ti m a te

t we lv e to th e y e a r , b ut a d d o n e , c a ll e d th e los t mo on, to e ver y
th irty . T h eir p o lit en ess in c o n ver s a ti o n i s c ar r i e d to ex c es s ;
; 53 U N IV E R S A L T R A V E L L ER .
I ND I A N TRI B ES .
i c e th e y n e v er c o n tr a dict n o r s eem to di s c r e dit wh a t is s a id

s n
i n th ei r p r es e n c e T h ey th us a v o id d i s p ut es ; b ut it b e c o m e s
.
di ffi c ul t to k n o w wh a t i m p r e s s i o n h b ee n m a d e o n th e ir m i n d s .
T h e m i s s i o n ar i es , w h o h a v e e n d e v o r e d t o c o n v e r t th e m t o
C h r i s ti a n ity , c o m pl a i n o f thi s h a bit, a s o n e o f th e gr e a te s t d if
fi c ultie s i n th e i r w a y T h e I n di a n s h e a r with p a t i en c e t h e
.
t r uth s o f th e g o s p e l e xpl a i n e d t o th e m a n d g iv e th e i r us u al
,
to k en s o f a s s en t a n d a pp r o b a ti o n b ut thi s d o e s n o t i m ply c o n
v i c tio n , it i s o n ly civility T h e y ge n e r a lly m a n i fe s t a gr e a t
.
i n di ffer e n c e fo r t h e p r o d u cti o n s o f a r t ; a n d, i f th ey s ee m to d e
r i ve pl ea s u r e fr o m l o o ki n g a t th e m , th ey a r e s e l d o m i n q u i s i
ti ve a b ou t th ei r c o ns tr u cti o n , o r anxi o us to k n o w th e i r u s e .
F u n er a l r i t es , a s well as m ar r i age cer em oni es , a m o n g most

I n di a n tr ib e s , ar e Ch o ct a w wid o w s exp r es s th e i r m o ur n
fe w .
i n g, by n o t c o m bi n g th e i r h a i r , u s u a lly fo r th e s p a c e o f a y e a r .
T h e C hipp e w a y m e n m o u r n by p a i n ti n g t h e i r fa c es bl a ck .
T h e S i o ux c o v er th e i r d e a d b o di es with o nly a fe w i n ch es o f
e a r th . T h e Chipp e w a y s b ur y th e m to th e d e pth o f e ight fe e t .
A m o n g t h i s l a tte r n a ti o n , fo r s e v e r a l n ights a fter a n i n ter m e n t,

fi r e is pl a c e d in th e g r a v e O n l o s i n g h e r c hild, a Chipp e w a y
.
m o th e r p r e p ar e s a n i m a ge o f it wh i c h s h e d r e s s e s a s s h e did
,
h er livi n g c hild , a n d go e s th r o ugh th e c e r e m o n i e s o f n u r s i n g it,
a s i f it w as a liv e , by d r o ppi n g littl e p a r ticl e s o f fo o d i n t h e di
‘
r e cti o n o f it s m o u th T hi s n a ti o n fr e qu en tly pl a c e s t h e c o fli n,
.
o r b o x c o n t a i n i n g a d e c e a s e d fr i e n d , o n t w o c r o s s p i e c e s ti e d to
fo ur p o l es whic h a r e a b o u t te n fe e t hi gh
,
N e a r th es e p o s ts
.
th ey pl a nt th e w il d h op , o r s o m e o th er r u n n i n g vi n e w hic h ,
s p r ea d s o v e r a n d c o v e r s t h e c o ffi n It m ay b e a d d e d in thi s
.
,
c o n n exi o n , th a t m o th er s u s u a lly c a r r y th e i r y o u n g c hild r en ,

wh e n tr a v e lli n g, o n th e i r b a ck s , in a ki n d o f c r a dl e, t h e o n ly
fa s t e n i n g t o which i s a pi e c e o f d eer s ki n , w hic h g o es r o un d
th e fo r e h e a d o f th e m o th er .
Th e I n di a ns fo th e R ocky M o un t a i n s a nd
c o th e
u n tr y b e
y o n d , a r e c o n s id e r ably n u m e r o u s , a n d d i ffer s o m e wh a t in th e i r
a pp ea r a n c e, a n d c us tom s fr o m th o s e tr ib e s w h ic h liv e b e tw e en
,
th e fo r e o i n g m o u n t a i n s a n d t h e A lle ga n ie s S o m e o f th e
.
p r in c i p a t r i b e s a r e t h e S h e s h o n e e s o r S
,
n a k e I n di a n s , th e C h 0 o
p u n n i s h fa m ily ,
t h e M a l tn o m a c k t r ib e s ,
t h e S o k u lk , Chi n a m
p um , W a lla h w o lla h ,
P i s h q u itp a h ,
W a h o w p u m ,
E n e s h u r e ,
E s
k elo o t, &c . S
o m e o f th es e t r ib e s ar e r e p r e sen t e d a s gen tl e .
a n d h o s pit a bl e I n g e n er a l , th e fem a l e s a r e t r ea te d b e tte r th a n

.
a m o n g m o r e e a s t e r n t r ib e s y e t a di ff e r e n c e,
i n thi s r e s p e c t,
h a s b ee n n o ti c e d by tr a v e ll e r s A s a r a c e , th ey a r e n o t a s
.
w ell fo r m ed a s th e I n di an s wh o m w e h a v e d e s c r ib e d B e fo r .
m ity s e e m s to b e c o n s id er e d a m o n g th e m a n e m b e lli s h m e n t,
a n d filth a V i r t ue T h e g e n e r a l p r a ctic e p r e v a il s a m o n g th e m
.
i n i n fa n cy , o f fl att e n in t h e h e a d T hi s is d o n e by a fl a t pi e c e
.
’
o f b a r k , ti e d to t h e i n a n t s fo r e h ea d , a n d t h e p r es s u r e is c o n
ti nne d, un til th e fo r e h ea d is s o fl atten e d, th at it i s in a s tr a i gh t
U N IVE R S A L T R A VELLE R . 59
lin e w ith th e n o s e, a n d th e s k u ll c o m e s t o a p o i n t o n ly a n i n ch
“
D ur i n g th e o p er a ti o n , th e e y e s s t a n d o ut o f
o r t w o th r o u gh .
”
t h e h e a d lik e th o s e o f a m o u s e s qu e e z e d to d e a th in a t r a p .
T h e h a i r o f b o t h s e x es i s p ar te d a t th e to p o f th e h e a d , a n d
th e n c e fa ll s l o o s e ly b e hi n d th e e a r s T h e m en a r e d r e s s e d i n
.
a s m a ll r o b e o f s ki n , r e a c hi n g to th e m iddl e o f th e th i gh , ti e d by
a s tr i n g a c r o s s t h e b r e a s t, whil e i ts c o r n er s h a n g l o o s e ly o v er
th e a r m s A bl a n k e t, w o v e n with th e fr i n g e s fr o m t h e w o o l
.
o f th e i r n a tiv e s h ee p , s o m e ti m es s u pp li e s t h e pl a c e o f thi s s ki n ;
a n d o c c a s i o n a lly th e y th r o w a m a t o v er t h e m , t o k e e p o ff t h e
r ai n. T h ey a r e v er y fo n d o f th e dr es s o f white m en , wh o m
th ey c all p a s h i s h cooks , o r cloth m en a n d , w h en e v er th ey c a n
-
p r o c ur e a n y o f th e i r cl o th es , th ey w e a r t h e m in th e E ur o p e a n
-
fa s hi o n , exc e pt th a t th ey n e v e r p u t o n s h o e s . T h e r o b e o f th e
w o m e n r e a c h es o n ly to t h e w a i s t, a n d b e l o w th a t th ey h a v e a
ki n d o f p e ttic o a t, r e a c hi n g to th e k n e e s T h e l a tte r is m a d e
.
w ith s tr ip e s o f s ki n o f th e s e a ~o tter , th e b e a v e r , o r th e r a c o o n ,
twi s te d a n d i n te r w o v e n with s ilk g r a s s , o r b a r k o f white c e d a r ,
-
s o th a t t h e fur a pp e a r s e qu a lly o n b o th s id es , a n d fo r m s a s o ft
a n d w a r m g ar m e n t .T h e c o v er i n g fo r th e h e a d i s c o m p o s e d
o f b e ar gr as s a n d c e d a r b a r k , i n t e r w o v e n i n a c o n ic fo r m , with
-
a k n o b o f t h e s a m e s h a p e a t to p . It h a s n o b r i m , b ut is k e pt
o n by a s t r i n g , whic h p a s s i n g u n d e r th e chi n , is fa s t e n e d t o a
s m a ll r i m withi n t h e h a t . T h e c o l o r s ar e g e n er a lly bl a c k
a n d whit e , fo r m e d i n t o v ar i o u s fi u r e s I n v er y c o l d w e a th er
g .
,
t h e w o m e n p u t o n a n a d d i ti o n a l v e s t o f s ki n s , w hich , b e i n g
ti e d b e hi n d , c o v e r s th e b o d y fr o m t h e a r m pits t o th e w a i s t
-
.
T h ey s o m e ti m e s t a tto o th e i r a r m s a n d l e gs ; a n d b o th s e x e s
a r e v er y p r o fu s e in t h e u s e o f o r n a m e n t s c o n s i s ti n g o f l a r g e
,
’
bl ue a n d white b e a d s , b e a r s cl a w s , a n d tu s k s o f e lk s ; with
b r a c el e ts o f i r o n , c o pp er , a n d b r a s s , in v a r i o u s fo r m s Y e t,
.
w ith a ll th e i r fi n er y , th ey a r e filthy a n d di s g u s ti n g .
T h e d w el li ng s of th es e p eop l e c o n s i s t o f pit s h o ll o w e d i n th e
e a r t h , s o m e ti m e s t o th e d e p t h o f fo u r o r fi v e fee t, a n d c o v er e d
with fr a m e d ti m b er h u ts T h e l a r ges t a r e d ivid e d by p a r ti
.
ti o n s i n t o r o o m s th r e e o r fo u r fa m ili e s r e s idi n g in e a c h A n .
a p e r tu r e is l e ft in th e r o o f fo r t h e s m o k e to p a s s th r o u gh a n d
,
t h e e n tr a n c e is by a s m a ll h o l e , j u s t l a r g e e n o u gh fo r a m a n t o
s q u e e z e h is b o dy th r o u gh . I n th e c e n tr e o f e a c h r o o m i s a
s p a c e , s ix o r e ig h t fee t s q u a r e , s u n k t o t h e d e pth o f tw elv e
i n c h es b e l o w th e r e s t o f th e fl o o r a n d h e r e th e fi r e i s m a d e,
fo r whic h pi n e b a r k i s p r e fe r r e d to a n y o th e r ki n d o f fu e l .
A r o u n d th e fi r e pl a c e m a t s a r e S p r e a d , whic h s e r v e fo r s e a ts
-
by d a y , a n d fr e q ue n tly , fo r b e d s a t n ight ; th o u gh c er t a i n s h e lv e s
a g a i n s t t e w a ll s m a
d
e
h y b e c o n s id er e d a s th e i r p r o p er b e d
fix
s te a ls .
B e fo r e l e a vi n g thi s p a r t o f th e c o n ti ne n t, w ew o uld p r o p o s e
to o u r fe ll o w t r a v e ll e r s a s h o r t vi s it t o O O N A L A s a x A , t h e la r
ges t o f t h e A l eu ti a n , o r F o x I s l a n ds w hich a r e s e p a r a t e d fr o m
,
so U NIVE R S A L T R A VELL ER .
'N D EA N TRI B ES .
th e c o n ti n e n t o f A m e r ic a b y a c h a n n el o f n o g r ea t width O ur .
a c c o u n t o f th e m s h a ll b e b r i e f
T h e i n h a bit a n t s o f thi s i s l a n d , a n d, i n d e e d , o f th e A l e u ti a n s
g e n er a lly ar e o f t h e m iddl e s i z e , with s tr o n gly m a r k e d fe a
,
t ur es a n d b en e v o l e n t c o un t e n a n c e s T h e i r d a r k s kin i s r en
, .
d er e d w o r s e b y w a n t o f cl e a n li n es s T h e y h a v e full r o u n d .
fa c es , fl a t n o s e s bl a ck e y e s a n d h a i r b u t n o b e a r d ; fo r thi s t h e y
, ,
pl u ck o u t by t h e r o o ts as s o o n a s it b e gi n s to gr o w T h e c o s .
t um e i s n e ar ly th e s a m e fo r b o th s e x e s ; a n d c o n s is ts o f a ki n d
’
o f s hi r t m a d e o f th e s e a d o g s s ki n o r o f t h e s ki n s o f v a r i o u s
,
-
, '
s e a bi r d s : thi s i s fas t e n e d r o u n d th e n e ck with a b r o a d s ti fi

c o ll ar a n d s o m e ti m e s i n ge n i o u s ly o r n a m e n te d w ith gl a s s b e a d s ,
,
’ ’ ’
s e a p ar r o t s b e a k s s t r ip e s o f s e a o tt er s s ki n s , g o a t s h a i r fe a th
-
,
-
,
e r s o r d y e d l e a th e r
,
T h e y h a v e a l s o ga r m e n ts o f fe a th er s in
.
,
t h e fa b r ic a ti o n o f whic h a p e r s o n will b e e m pl o y e d a wh o l e
y e a r , a n d gr e a t a r t i s di s pl a y e d in th e w o r k m a n s hip I n d ry .
a n d c o ld w e a th e r , t h e fe a th er s a r e w o r n i n w ar d s ; b u t i n r a i n y
w e a th er th e y a r e t ur n e d o u tw a r d s to th r o w o ff th e w e t B u t
, ,
.
t h e p r o p er r a i n d r e s s i s m a d e o f th e e n tr a il s o f t h e s e a d o g -
whic h a r e s o e ffe ctu ally s e w e d t o g e th e r a s to b e w a te r p r o o -
A h o o d is a tt a c h e d whic h c o v e r s t h e h e a d a n d i s ti e d u n d e r
, ,
th e chi n A w o o d e n h a t which o v e r s h a d o w s t h e e y es lik e a n
.
,
u m b r e ll a , b u t i s r o u n d e d o ff b e hi n d i s t h e m o s t e xp e n s iv e p ar t
,
o f t h e h e a d d r e s s w o r n by th e s e p e o pl e fr o m th e d i ffi c ul ty o f
-
,
p r o c ur i n g a pi e c e o f w o o d s u it a b l e fo r th e p u r p o s e , a n d b r i n g
i n g it t o th e p r o p e r s h a p e It is a d o r n e d with b e a d s a n d
.
,
s m a ll iv o r y fig ur e s o u t fr o m t h e t ee t h o f t h e s e a c o w a n d
,
-
,
— ’
with th e b r i s tl e s o f th e s e a li o n s b e a r d T h e l a s t a r e hi gh ly .
e s t e e m e d ; fo r a s e a c h a n i m a l h a s o n ly fo u r o f th es e b r i s tl e s ,
t h e w e ar in o f a c o n s i d e r a b l e n u m b er i s th e t o k e n o f a g o o d
h u n t e r T e w o m e n w e a r nu m e r o u s r i n gs up o n th e i r fi n g e r s ;
.
a n d a r e fo n d o f d e c o r a ti n g th e i r w r i s t s a n d a n kl e s with ci r cl e s
o f gl a s s b e a d s b u t th e y a r e g e n e r a lly b ar e fo o t e d T h ey al s o .
c u t th e i r h a i r j u s t a b o ve t h e e y e s a n d t ie it b e hi n d in a l ar ge
,
b un ch T h e m e n s u ffe r th e i r l o ck s t o h a n g d i s o r d e r ly a b o u t
.
th e i r s h o ul d e r s O n p a r tic u l a r o cc as i o n s a s fe s tiv a l s s tr i n g s
.
, ,
o f gl a s s b e a d s a r e s u s p e n d e d fr o m s m a ll s pli n t e r s o f w o o d th r u s t
th r o u gh t h e n o s tr il s e a r s a n d u n d e r lip s T a tto o i n g w a s fo r
, ,
.
m e r ly m u ch p r a c ti s e d by t h e fe m a l es ; b u t s i n c e t h e r e s i d en c e
o f th e R u s s i a n s a m o n g th e m it i s n e a r ly d i s c o n ti n u e d .
T h e h a bi ta ti on s of th e O on a la s h ka n s a r e h o l e s d u g i n th e
g r o u n d , a n d c o v e r e d with a r o o f, o v e r which e ar th i s th r o wn ,
a n d g r as s g r o w s u p o n it : h e n c e a V ill a ge h a s t h e a pp e a r a n c e
o f a E u r o p e a n b u r i a l g r o u n d , full o f t u r fe d gr a v e s A h o le .
in th e t o p s e r v e s fo r d o o r w a y , wi n d o w, a n d c hi m n ey F i s h a n d
-
.
s e a d o g s , with t h e fa t a n d s o m e o t h e r p a r ts o f th e wh a l e , s e r ve
-
th e s e i s l a n d e r s fo r fo o d T h e s ea d o g s uppli e s th e m with m o s t
.
-
o f t h e n e c e s s a r i e s o f li fe : th ei r cl o th e s , c a r p e t s , s h o e s , a n d s e v
e r a l h o u s e h o ld u t e n s il s , a r e m a d e o f its s ki n , with which a l s o
th ei r c an o es ar e c o v er e d ; th e g ull et is c o n v er t ed i n to tr o u se r s
U NI V ER S A L T R A VE LLER . 61
I N I AN
D S OF N OO T K A S O U N D .
and b o o ts ; liq u o r s a r e p r es er v e d i n its p a u n c h r a i n g a r m en ts

a n d wi n d o w s a r e m a d e o f i ts e n tr a il s its b r i s tl e s s e r v e a s o r
n a m en ts fo r t h e h e a d its fl e s h is e a t e n ; a n d th e o il p r o d u c e d
fr o m its fa t is n o t o n ly a n a r t icl e o f fo o d b u t a l s o fur n s h e s i
,
light a n d w a r m t h in t h e s ubte r r a n e o us a b o d e s o f th e i s l a n d er s .
Th e f
c a n o es o hich ar e v
t h e i s la n d er s , w
e r y i n ge n i o u
’
s ly c o n
s t r u ct e d wi t h w o o d e n fr a m e s a n d a c o v e r i n g o f s e a d o g s s ki n s,
,
-
a r e w e ll c a lc u l a t e d fo r s h o r t v o y a g es T h e m en di s pl a y m u c h
.
i n gen uity i n c a r vi n g figu r e s o f m e n b ea s ts a n d bi r d s fr o m , , ,

t h e t e e th o f t h e s e a c o w whic h a r e h a r d e r th a n iv o r y ; a n d
- -
t h e w o m e n a r e n o l e s s d e xt er o u s i n t h e fa b r ic a ti o n o f fi n e
m a ts s m a ll b a s k e t s a nd p o ck e t b o o k s o f s t r a w, v e r y p r e ttily
, ,
-
w o v e n t o g e th er T h e y a l s o d y e s t r a w , l e a th er , a n d o th e r o r
.
na m e n ta l a r ticl e s wi th v e r y ga y c o l o r s
,
B o th s exe s a r e ex .
tr e m e ly fo n d o f s n u ff a n d b r a n dy ; b u t t h e l a tt e r i s v e r y s c a r c e .
D a n ci n g i s a fa v o r it e a m u s e m e n t with t h e m a n d is p e r fo r m e d ,
in th e o p e n a ir , t o t h e s o un d o f a s m a ll d r u m s o m eti m e s a o ~ ,
c o m p a n i e d by s h a ki n g a bl a dd e r with p e bbl e s in it The .
d a n c es c o n s i s t o f t w o o r th r e e p e r s o n s h o ppi n g s i mu lt a n e o us ly
with o u t s hi fti n g th e i r pl a c e s .
On o ur r e ur nt fr o m O o n a l a s h k a to th e A m er ic a n c o n ti n e n t,
w e s h a ll fi n d it c o n v e n i e n t t o e nte r a r e m ar k a bl e B a y , c a ll e d
T
N OO K A O U N D S I n thi s s o u n d a r e s e v e r a l i s l a n d s , t h e p r i n c i
.
’
p a l o f whic h i s c a ll e d Q u a d r a a n d V a n co u ve r s I s l a n d ,
i n c o m
p li m e n t t o S S
i gn o r Q u a d r a , th e p a n i s h c o m m a n d e r a t N o o tk a
S o u n d , a n d C a pt a i n V a n c o u v e r .
T h e i n h a bi t a n ts of N o o tka a r e i n g en er a l r o bu s t a n d w e ll
p r o p o r ti o n e d , b u t w i t h l es s s y m m e try t h a n m o s t o th e r I n d i a n s
o f N o r th A m e r ic a ; th e i r fa c e s a r e l a r g e a n d full , th e i r c h e e k s
hi gh a n d p r o m i n e n t, th e i r e y e s s m all a n d bl a ck , n o s e s b r o a d
a n d fl a t, lip s thick , a n d t e e th o f t h e m o s t b r illi a n t w hit e n e s s .
A c u s t o m p r e v a il s a m o n g th e m o f c o m p r e s s in g t h e fo r e h e a d s
o f i n fa n t s with s t r o n g fill e ts , s o a s to m a k e th e u pp e r p a r t o f th e
h e a d g r o w o f a c o n ic a l o r s u ga r l o a f s h a p e T hi s p r a ctic e
-
.
c au s es th e e y e b r o ws t o b e d r a w n u p , fl a t te n s th e n o s e , d i s te n d s
th e n o s tr il s , a n d s o m e ti m es p r o d u c e s s qu i n ti n g y e t th e y a r e
‘
b y n o m e a n s a n ill —l o o ki n g r a c e I n c o m m o n with m a n y o t h
.
‘
er A m e r ic a n I n di a n s , th e y e xti r p a t e th e i r b e a r d s , by pl u cki n g
th e m o ut by th e r o o ts ; y e t th e h a i r o f t h e i r h e a d s i s a n o bj e ct
o f th ei r v a n ity , a n d th e y t a k e gr e a t p a i n s with it T h e i r s ki n .
is w h ite , a n d s o m e o f th e w o m e n e xhibit fa i r c o m pl e xi o n s,
'
a n d d e lic a t e, if n o t b e a u ti ful fe a t ur e s .
th es e p eop l e a re m a d e o f
v y l d b d
Th e f
h ous es o e r o n
g a n r o a
pl a nk s r e s ti n g U p o n th e e d g es o f e a c h o th er , a n d ti e d t o g eth e r
,
with with es o f th e pi n e b a r k T h e o n ly d o o r s a n d wi n d o w s th ey
.
h av e c o n s is t o f th e h o l e s r e s ulti n fr o m th e u n e qu a l l e n gth o f
S o m e s l en d e r up rigg
,
th e pl a nk s . t p o s ts o n th e o uts i d e, a nd
6
CA N A DA .
som e l a r ger p o l es , s et a s l a n t wi thi n , ar e th e on ly s u pp o r t of

th e s e fr a gil e “ w o o d en w a ll s ” .
H avi n g n o w fi n i s h e d o ur w e s t er n e xc ur s i on w e will tur n t o ,

h
t e a b o d es o f civiliz d e s o e —
ci ty a p r o p o s al which will d o ub t ,
l es s b e h a il e d with pl e as ur e b y t h e m o r e ti m id o f o u r fe ll o w
tr a v e ll er s w h o m a y , a t l e as t i n th e V i s i o n s o f th e n i gh t, fa n cy
,
th e m s e lv e s t o m a h a wk e d , o r s c a lp e d o r p e r h a p s d ev o u r e d by
,
c a n n ib a l s , a m o n g w h o m w e h a v e r o v e d A wid e d i s t a n c e .
s t r e tch e s b e fo r e u s — m o u n t a i n s l a k es fo r e s t s , i n ter v e n e a n d
, , ,
n o t a fe w a s i n h o s pit a bl e t r i b e s a s a n y w e h a v e y e t s e e n b ut .
lik e t h e u pli fte d aer o n a u t w e s a il fe a r l e s s ly o v e r d a n ge r s

, .
which thick e n u p o n m o r e s ubl u n ar y t r a v e ll er s O ur v o y age .
c o m p as s e d w e i n tr o d uc e o ur fe ll o w tr a v ell er s to th e in h a b i
,
t an ts o f C a n ad a .
3 . C A NA D A .
Th e p o p ul a ti o n o f C a n a d a ,
U pp er a n d L o w er i s c o m p u te d ,
at th e p r e s e n t ti m e a t T h ey a r e c o m p o s e d o f Am er
i ca n s , F r en ch , E n g li s h , S co tch , I r i s h , G er m a n s , a n d D u t ch .
T h e F r e n ch , h o we v e r , g r e a tly e xc e e d a ll o th e r cl a s s es ; a n d
in th e i r m a n n e r s a n d c u s t o m s h a v e e xp e r i e n c e d littl e ch a n g e ,
'
s i n c e th e c o n q u e s t o f t h e c o u n t r y by t h e r iti s h T h ey a r e B .
d e s c r ib e d a s h o n e s t, h o s pit abl e , a n d i n o ffe n s iv e b ut u n i n

fo r m e d a n d i n d o l e n t ; a tt a ch e d t o a n ci e n t r ej u dic es , a n d lim
iti n g th e i r e x e r ti o n s to th e a c q ui s iti o n 0 n e c e s s ar i e s , r a th e r
th a n th e c o n v e n i e n c e s o f li fe T h e i r p r o p e n s ity to i n a c ti o n
.
r e t a i n s m an y i n a s t a t e o f p o v e r ty ; b ut, a s th e i r w a n t s a r e
ci r c u m s c r ib e d , th ey a pp ea r h a ppy C o n ten t m e n t o f m i n d a n d
.
m il d n e s s o f d i s p o s iti o n , s e e m t o b e th e l e a d i n g fe a t u r e s in th e i r
c h a r a ct er T h e y h a v e li ttl e d e s i r e fo r n o v el ty o r i m p r ov e
.
m e n t , a n d e xhibit n o gr e a t p o r ti o n o f g e n i us .
A t a n e a r ly p er i o d o f li fe , t h e C a n a di a n i s h e a lthy a n d r o b u s t,
a n d c a n with p a ti e n c e a n d r e s o l ut i o n e n c o u n t e r gr e a t fa tig ue
i n c as e o f n e c e s s ity B ut h is s t r e n gth is n bt o f l o n g d u r a ti o n ,
.
a n d h e s o o n l o o k s o ld His n a t u r a l lo v e o f i n d o l e n c e a n d s pi r it
.
o f i n d e p e n d e n c e m a k e h im a b a d s e r v a n t ; th o u gh , a s a m a s
t er , h e is ki n d a n d i n d u l ge n t A c c u s t o m e d to c o n c e r n hi m s e l f
.
o n ly i n h i s o w n a ff a i r s , h e i s n o t r e m ar k a bl e fo r c o n s t a n cy in
fr i e n d s hip a n d is r a r e ly li a bl e t o b e o v er r e a ch e d in tr a ffic ,
B o th m e n a n d w o m e n liv e to a n a d v a n c e d a ge ; m a n y o f th e
l a tte r a r e h a n d s o m e, wh e n y o u n g ; b ut exp o s u r e t o th e we a th
e r , a n d th e l a b o r i o u s t o il s o f t h e fi e ld , i n whic h th ey a r e o bli
e d to t a k e th e i r full p r e p o r ti o n , s o o n r e n d e r th e m o f a s a ll o w
u s a n d m a s c uli n e fo r m E a ch fa m ily s u ppli es its w a n ts fr o m
.
i ts o wn r es o ur c es : th ey m a nu fa ctu r e th e i r o wn li n e n a n d w o ol
Thi s is th e esti m ate of D rs R eed . and Math eson .

C O T UM
S E OF T HE C AN AD I A N S .
le n t
s ud s ; t a n th e hi d e s o f th e i r c a ttl e ; m ake s h o es a n d
s to cki n g s a n d a r e th e i r o w n t a il o r s c a r p e n t er s m a s o ns a n d
, ,
wh e e l er s T h e fur n itur e o f th e i r h ab it a t i o n s a l s o , is e n c r a l
.
,
ly o f th e i r o w n w o r k m a n s hip , a n d c o n s e que n tly is s e l 0 m v e

T h e i r p r i n cip a l a r ti cl e o f fo od c o n s i s t s o f
0
r y o r n a m en t a l
'
p e a s e s o u p with a s m all qu a n tity o f p o r k b o il e d i n i t a n d a

-
, ,
di s h o f s o u r m ilk T e a a n d c o ffe e a r e u s e d t o s o m e e xt e n t
. .
W o m e n a n d c hild r e n s e l d o m u s e a ny o th e r d r i n k th a n m il k
a n d w a te r b ut t h e m en a r e p a s s i o n a t e ly fo n d o f r u m and
b u t fe w o f th e m , w h e n th e y go to m a r k e t w i t h th e i r c o m m o d i
ti es , r e tur n h o m e p e r fe ctly s o b er .
”
I n th e cos tu m e of th e F r en c h g en t r y i n C a n a d a , o b s e r v es
S ‘ ’
P r o fes s o r illi m a n in h is J o u r n a l , th er e i s n o thi n g p e c u li ar .
T h e p ea s a n t r y fr e q u e n tly w e a r a bl ue o r r e d w o o ll e n c a p , fa ll
in g b a ck in a p e n d a n t c o n e , a n d m a n y o f th e m w e a r a r e d o r
p a r ty c o l o r e d w o o ll en s as h a r o u n d t h e i r w a i s t s T h ey a r e .
fo n d o f t o b a c c o , a n d a r e fr e q ue n tly o b s e r v e d s m o ki n g with a
”
s h o r t pip e , whil e th e y a r e w a lki n g o r d r ivi n g th e i r c a r t s .
“W e w e r e s u ffi ci en tly a m us e d ” o b s e r v e s t h e p r o fe s s o r “a t
, ,
s e e i n g a c o m m o n F r e n c h m a n d r ivi n g a c a r t o f d ry s tr a w i n
th e s tr e e ts o f M o n t r e a l , whil e h e w a s s itti n g i m m e d i a te ly b e
fo r e it , s m o ki n g h is pip e q uit e u n c o n c er n e d , a lth o u gh a s tr o n
wi n d w a s bl o wi n g t h e s p a r k s d i r e c tly to w a r d s th e s tr a w .
d a y o r t w o a ft er , w e m e t a n o th e r , a l s o s m o ki n g , a n d with th e
f
u t m o s t s a n g r o i d, s ittin g i n th e m i d s t o f h i s l o a d o f s tr a w .
“W e v i s i t e d a n u m b er o f vill a e s a n d w e n t i n t o s e v er a l
g ,
h o us e s o f th e p e a s a n t r y , b e s i d e s l o o ki n i n to m a n y o th e r s ,
f
p a r tic ul a r ly a r o un d Q ue b e c , th e d e ligh t ul w e a th e r c a u s i n g
t h e m to th r o w th e i r w i n d o w s wid e o p e n M o s t o f th e cotta g es
.
a r e co n s t r u ct ed of log s , n ic e ly s q u ar e d a n d l a id u p ; t h e a n gl es
a r e fr a m e d o r h a lv e d t o g e th e r , t h e s ea m s a r e m a d e ti ght by
p l a i s t e r , g o o d wi n d o w s a n d d o o r s a r e fitte d in , th e r o o fs a r e
g e n er a lly o f s hi n gl e s , th e wh o l e is ti ght a ga i n s t t h e w e a th e r ,
a n d n e a tly wh it e w a s h e d , r o o f a n d a ll ; a t l e a s t thi s i s c o m
-
,
m o nly th e fa ct o n t h e S
t L a w r e n c e I h a v e a l r e a dy m e n
. .
tio ne d th a t th e b e tt er s o r t o f c o t ta g e s a r e b uilt o f s t o n e , s o m e
ti m es c o v er e d with c e m e n t a n d s o m e ti m e s n o t I n s id e , th e .
h o us e s a pp e a r v e r y c o m fo r ta b l e th e y a r e pl a is te r e d o r w a i n s
c o a t e d, a n d e a c h m a n s i o n is fu r n i s h e d with a n a m pl e s t o v e ,
u s u a lly s t a nd i n g in t h e m iddl e o f a l a r g e r o o m o r i n t h e
, p ar
t i ti o n o f t w o , o r i n th e c o m m o n a n gl e o f s e v e r a l T h er e a r e .
l ar ge o u t h o u s es , b a r n s , &c , b uilt in m u c h th e s a m e m a n n e r
-
.
a s t h e h o us es
"W e h a d o c c a s i o n s e v e r a l ti m e s to c a ll a t th e h o us e s o f th e
.
p e a s a n tr y fo r m ilk , o r s o m e th i n e l s e th a t w e w a n te d T h e .
m i lk w a s v e r y r ic h , a n d fo r a tr i e w a s b o u n ti fu lly fur n i s h e d .
T h e m a n n e r s o f th e F r e n c h in C a n a d a , a r e extr e m e ly c o u r t
co u s a n d ki n d ; th o s e o f t h e g e n tr y a r e o f c o u r s e p o li s h e d b u t
,
t h e c o m m o n p e o pl e a l s o , h a v e a wi n n i n g ge n t l e n e s s an d s u a v
i ty, an d a z e a l o us f o r w a r d n es s t o s er v e y o u, w hich a r ti c u
, p
C A N AD A .
l a r ly i n th e vill a g e s , d e li ghte d u s v er y m u ch E v e n th e c o m .
m o n o u i M o ns i eu r , i s utte r e d in a m a n n e r s o d i fl er e n t fr o m
th e bl un t c o ld ne s s O f o u r c o m m o n p e o pl e , w h o fr e que n tly
fo r ge t th e M o n s i e ur , th a t w e w er e m u c h s tr u ck with th e di ffe
r en ce .
Th e w o m en , of
c o ur s e , exc e l th e m e n in all th a t i s bl a n d ,
i n m a n n er a n d o b li gi n g in c o n d u ct ; th e r e i s a l s o a l a d y lik e -
s el f p o s s e s s i o n ab o u t th e m
-
th ey d o n o t a pp e a r a t all e m b a r
r as s e d by th e q u e s ti o n s o f a s t r a n g e r b ut a n s w e r th e m with
,
t h e e a s e a n d p o lit e n e s s O f hi gh er li fe , with o u t r e li n q u i s hi n g
th e s i m plicity o f m a n n e r s a pp r o p r i a te to th ei r o w n c o n diti o n .
A fte r o u r Vi s it t o t h e Ch au di e r e b e i n g l a te a n d in h a s te w e
, ,
a s k e d fo r s o m e m ilk a t a p e a s a n t s d o o r with o u t m e a n i n g t o
’
,
o i n ; th e m ilk w a s i n s t a n t ly p r o d uc e d b ut we m us t n o t
gr i n k it a t th e d o o r ; en tr ez JlI ons i eu r en t r ez M on s i eu r
’ ‘
,
’
, ,
,
w a s ki n dly r e p e a te d by th e w o m a n O f t h e h o us e , a n d w e w e n t
i n s h e s e a t e d u s a r o u n d a t a bl e a n d fu r n i s h e d u s with a b o wl
,
O f fi n e m ilk , a n d w ith tu m bl er s t o d r in k it o u t O f
” .
B e s id e s th e F r e n c h p o p u l a ti o n , C a n a d a c o n t a i n s s o m e A m e r
i c a n s , a n d s till m o r e s e t tl er s O f E n gli s h o r G e r m a n d e s c e n t .
B e tw e en t h e fo r m e r a n d l a tt e r th er e i s a m a r k e d di s tin cti o n .
T h e fo ll o wi n g e xhibiti o n O f th e d i ff er e n c e whic h e xi s t s b e
tw ee n th e s e t w o cl as s e s will d o ubtl es s i n te r e s t o ur fe ll o w tr a v
e ll er s :
The A m e r ic a n s e ttle r , s lo w a n d s il en t, d o es n o t r i s e v e r y
‘
e a r ly ; b ut wh e n h e h a s o n c e r i s e n , h e s p e n d s th e w h o l e O f th e
d a y i n a n un i n t er r u pte d s e r i e s O f u s e ful l ab o r s A t b r e a k fa s t, .
h e c o l d ly giv es o r d e r s t o h is wi fe , w h o r e c e iv e s th e m with
c o ld n es s a n d ti m idity , a n d o b ey s th e m with o u t c o n tr a d icti o n .
I f t h e w e a t h er b e fa i r , h e go e s o u t, pl o ugh s , fe ll s tr e e s m a k e s ,
fe n c es o r t h e lik e : i f it b e w e t, h e t a k e s a n i n v e n t o r y O f th e '
c o n t e n ts O f h is h p u e b a r n , a n d s ta bl e s ; r e p a i r s th e d o o r s
, ,
wi n d o w s o r l o ck s ; r iv es n a il s , m a k e s ch a i r s o r t a bl es ; a n d
,
i s c o n s t a n tly e m pl o y e d i n r e n d e r i n g h i s h abit a ti o n s e c u r e ,
c o n v e n i e n t, a n d n e a t With th e s e di s p o s i ti o n s h e will s el l h is
.
,
fa r m i f a n o pp o r t un ity O ff e r a n d r e ti r e i n t o th e w o o d s thi r ty
,
o r fo r ty m il e s , t o fo r m a n e w s e ttl e m e n t T h e r e h e will s p e n d
.
y e a r s in fe lli n g t r e e s , m a ki n g fo r hi m s el f fi r s t a h u t, th en a
s t a bl e th e n a b ar n ; cl e a r i n g t h e gr o u n d , a n d th e n s o wi n g it,
,
&c . His wi fe , p a ti e n t a n d s e r i o us as hi m s e l f, w ill s e c o n d h is

e n d e a v o r s o n h e r p ar t, a n d th e y will r e m a i n s o m e ti m e s s ix
m o n th s with o u t s e ei n g th e fa c e O f a s t r a n g e r B ut a t th e e x .
p ir a t io n O f fo u r o r fi v e y e a r s ,
th e y w ill h a v e a cq u i r ed an es
t a t e , th a t e n s ur es s ub s i s te n c e to th e i r fa m ily T h e F r e n c h .
s e ttl er , o n t h e c o n t r a r y r i s e s e a r ly i n th e m o r n i n g, i f it o n l y
,
b e t o t a lk O f it He c o n s u lt s h i s wi fe o n wh a t h e s h a ll d o , a n d
.
l i s ten s t o h e r a dvic e It w o uld b e a m i r a cl e , i f th ey w er e al

.
w a y s O f th e s a m e O pi n i o n t h e wi fe a r e s , o pp o s e s , di s p ute s ;
th e h us b a n d i n s is t s u p o n o r yi e l d s t e p O i n t, i s i r r it at e d o r
di s h e ar te n e d S o m eti m es h i s h o us e i s i r k s o m e to h im a n d
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U NIVE R S A L T R A VELLER . 6 5
P EC U L I A R IT I B S .
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he t a k e s h is gun , g o es a s h o o ti n g o r a j o ur n e y o r to c h a t ,
with h is n e i ghb o r s A t o t h e r ti m e s h e s t a y s a t h o m e a n d
.
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s p e n d s th e t i m e i n t a lki n g with go o d h u m o r , o r i n qu a r r e lli n g

a n d s c o l di n g .
T hi s i s o n e o f t h e m o s t di s ti n gu i s hi n g a n d ch a r a cte r i s ti c
fe a t ur es o f t h e t w o n a ti o n s A n d to thi s d i ffe r e n c e m a y b e
.
tr a c e d , in n o i n c o n s id e r a b l e d e gr e e th e d i ffe r e n c e i n t h e in ,
d us try a n d th r i ft t h a t i s o b s e r v a bl e b e tw e e n th e m T h e A m e r i
c a n s e ttl e r h a s ti m e o r t a k e s ti m e t o thi n k a n d pl a n
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c a lc ul a ti o n s a r e m a d e wi th g r ea te r a cc ur a cy a n d e x e c u te d ,
with m o r e e xp e d iti o n a n d c e r ta i n ty O n th e o th e r h a n d t h e .
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n e ig h b o r s a n d fi n d s a t l e n gt h th a t h e h a s s qu a n d e r e d a w a y
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h is ti m e with o ut b e n e fit to h i s fa m ily
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A n y p ecu li a r i ti es i n th e m o d e s o f li fe a m o n g th e i n h a bit a n t s
o f C a n a d a a r e m o s t o b s er v a bl e d ur i n g th e s e as o n o f w i n t er ,
which in th i s c o u n tr y p r es e n t s a vi e w o f n a t ur e p e r fe ctly n e w
to th e n a tiv e s o f G r e a t r it a i n BI n thi s s e a s o n , th e a pp e a r a n c e
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a n d d r e s s o f t h e C a n a di a n s a r e c o m pl e t e ly c h a n g e d , a n d i n
s t e a d o f th e h a t a n d re d b o nn e t, n o thi n g is s ee n b ut fur c a p s ,
fur cl o a k s , fur gl o v e s , a n d w o r s te d s t o cki n gs , b o th o v e r a n d
u n d er t h e b o o t s U n l e s s p r o t e ct e d in thi s m a n n e r , th ey c o ul d
.
n o t v e n t u r e wi t h i m p u n ity , i n t o th e s ep e r ity o f t h e fr o s ty a t
m o s p h e r e ; b u t e v e n u n d e r s u c h a l o a d o f cl o t hi n g, th ey a r e
a b l e t o w a lk w i th th e g r e a t e s t a gility , a n d t a k e a b un d a n t e x
e r c i s e , with o u t b e i n g fa tigu e d .
Wh en t r a v elli n g , in th e c o ld o f wi n te r , th ey a r e s till m o r e
c o m pl e tely c o v er e d with a d o ubl e cl o a k , m u ff a n d tipp et , a ll o f
fur ; a n d wh e n th ey i n t e n d t o d e vi a t e fr o m th e o r di n a r y t r a ck ,
a n d go i n t o t h e w o o d s , th e y m a k e u s e o f s n o w s h o e s , whic h
a r e m a d e o f a ki n d o f n e t w o r k , fix e d u p o n a fr a m e , a b o v e
tw o fe e t i n le n h , e i gh t e e n i n ch e s b r o a d , a n d s h a p e d lik e a
p a p e r kite *
. h e s i m pl e i n s tr u m e n t o f w a lki n g t a k e s i n s o
m u c h s u r fa c e o f s n o w , th a t th e fee t s i n k b u t a fe w i n ch es , a n d
th e p r o gr e s s is h e n c e r e n d e r e d c o m p ar a tiv e ly e a s y On ac .
c o u n t o f th e d e pth o f th e s n o w , it w o u ld b e i m p o s s i b l e to t r a v e l
with wh ee l c a r r i a ges ; a n d a ki n d o f s l e d ge, whic h p a s s e s o v e r
t h e s u r fa c e w ith o u t s i n ki n g d e e p , a n d whic h i s c a ll e d a c a r io l e,
i s s u b s titu te d i n th e i r pl a c e T h e b o dy o f thi s c o n v e y a n c e is
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s h a p e d l i k e a ph a e to n , a v i s a v i s , a fa m ily c o a c h , o r a m a r k e t
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c a r t, a c c o r di n g t o th e fa n cy o f th e o w n e r , a n d t h e p a r tic u l a r
us e to w hich i t is a ppli e d It i s fix e d up o n r u nn er s , as th e y
.
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deer s ki n s cu t i n s i n 3 i s fas t en ed t o t h e fr am e T h e fo o t is co n fi n ed t o i t b y .
m ea n s o f s t ri n s o f t e s am e m at eri a l Th e s n o w s h o e u s ed i n t h e m o u n tai n s
.
i s tu r n ed up a t t re en d, a n d s p oi n t ed T h es e s h o e s ar e o rn a m e n t ed W i t h p ai n t
i .
or p r p e q ui ll s , accor di ng t o t h e o w n er s fan cy To walk well o n t h ese

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b ro ad an d l ong b ot to m s req ui res p r acti ce .
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66 U NIVE R S A L T R A VELLE R .
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ar e c a ll e d whic h r es e m bl e in fo r m th e i r o n s o f a s k a te , r i s in g
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u p in fr o n t a fte r a s i m il a r m a n n e r ; a n d it is g e n e r a lly n i n e o r
tw e lve th o ugh s o m e ti m e s e ighte e n i n ch e s a b o v e t h e s n o w
, .
T h o s e v e hicl e s a r e , fo r th e m o s t p a r t, light o p e n c a r r i a g es , ,
d r a wn by o n e h o r s e ; b ut, th o ugh th e s no w u n d er th e i r tr a ck s
s o o n b e c o m es fi r m a n d s m o o th , y e t, fr o m t h e i m p r o p e r c o n
s t r u cti o n o f th e c a r i o l es i n c o m m o n u s e , it i s s o full o f in e q u a li
ti e s c a ll e d ca h o ts th a t th e i r m o ti o n i s d es c r ib e d b y t r a v e ll er s
, ,
a s r e s e m bli n g th e r o wi n g o f a b o a t a g a i n s t a h e a d s e a a n d a s ,
r e q u i r i n g l o n g c u s t o m to r e c o n cil e a s tr a n ge r t o b e a r it ea s ily .
T h e s m a ll r iv e r s , d itch es a n d fe n c e s , a r e s o fill e d with s n o w,

,
a s to b e o n a l e v e l with th e fi e ld s o n e v er y s i d e ; a n d t h e c o un
t ry p eo pl e , wh e n th e y fi r s t fo r m th e i r t r a ck s d i r e c t th e i r c a ~ ,
r io le s , hy th e n e a r e s t c o u r s e, o r wh er e th e s n o w i s m o s t l e v e l ,
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w ith o u t r e g a r di n g th e s u m m er r o a d s T h e s e wi n ter tr a ck s , .
by fixi n g in th e s n o w s m a ll fi r tr e e s a t s h o r t a n d r e gul a r d is
t a n c e s , whic h r e t a i n th e i r v e r d ur e till th e s p r i n g a p p e a r ,
lik e w a lk s c r o s s i n g th e c o u n tr y in v a r io us di r e cti o n s , a n d h a v e
a v e r y c ur i o us a n d s tr iki n g e ffe ct .
T h e s e v er ity o f wi n te r i n thi s c o u n t r y is a tt e n d e d with v a r i

o u s a d va n t a g es , es p e ci a lly t o th e i n h a bit a n ts o f t h e t o w n s .
A s th e l a k e s a n d r ive r s a r e t h en fr o z e n , th e c o n v e y a n c e o f
m a n y a r ticl e s is th u s gr e a tly fa cilit a te d a n d a s th e p e o pl e in th e
c o un tr y h a v e n o o th e r o cc u p a ti o n , t o whic h th ey c a n a pply ,
th ey e m pl o y th e m s e lv eg in c a r r yi n g t o t o wn a ll ki n d s o f p r o vi
s i o ns T h e m a r k e ts ar e th u s s u ppli e d fr o m a gr e a t e xte n t o f
.
c o u n tr y ; fi s h fo r i n s t a n c e is b r o u gh t fr o m t h e U n ite d S ta te s ,
, ,
fr o m a di s t a n c e o f s e v e r a l h u n d r e d m il e s ; a n d e v er y a r ticl e
o f s ub s i s t e n c e is b o th m o r e pl e n ti ful a n d a l s o m u ch c h e a p e r ,
,
th a n d ur i n g th e s um m er B y th e a i d o f wi n te r a l s o a ll k i n d s
.
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o f a n i m a l fo o d a r e p r e s e r v e d fo r th e u s e o f th e i n h a bit a n t s ,
w ith o u t m u c h t r o u bl e o r e xp e n s e A s s o o n a s th e fr o s t h a s
.
b e c o m e s u ffici e n tly i n t e n s e th e c a ttl e , s h e e p p o ul tr y &c b e

, , ,
.
fo r e th e y h a v e l o s t a n y o f th e fl es h a n d fa t which th e y h a v e
a cqu i r e d by s u m m er fe e d i n g, a r e kill e d a n d e xp o s e d fo r a ,
s h o r t ti m e t o t h e fr o s t , u p o n whic h t h e y b e c o m e a s h a r d a s
ic e a n d , a fte r b e i n g p a ck e d in c a s k s with s n o w will c o n ti n u e,
, ,
with o u t a n y o th er p r e p a r a ti o n , p er fe ctly s o u n d a n d g o o d , fo r
th e s p a c e o f fo u r o r fi v e m o n th s W h e n m e a t, i n thi s s t a te i s
.
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a b o u t to b e u s e d it i s th a we d in c o l d w a ter ; a n d w o ul d b e
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r e n d e r e d p u tr i d i n a s h o r t ti m e by a ny w ar m a pplic a ti o n In .
thi s w a y , c o n s id e r a bl e qu a n titi es o f fr e s h fi s h e s p e ci a lly o f ,

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w h a t th e C a n a di a n s c all p eti t e m or u e a n d th e E n gli s h tomm y ,

.
cod a r e p r e s e r v e d fo r th e m a r k e t
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c o u n tr y p e o pl e d u r i n g th e s t a gn ati o n o f th ei r u s u a l w o r k , by
,
n e ts o r li n e s , le t d o w n th r o u gh o p e n i n g s m a d e i n t h e i c e .
S o m e ti m e s h u t s o f b o a r d s , o r e v e n o f ic e a r e c o n s tr u cte d o v er ,
th es e O p e n i n g s with a s to v e withi n to k ee p th e fi s h e r s w ar m
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a s tr o n g li ght is th e n pl a c e d n e a r th e m o u th o f t h e O p e n i n g; by
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w hich th e fi s h ar e a tt r a cte d to t he s ur fa c e a nd a r e t ak en a s
68 U NIVER S A L T R A V ELL ER .
CANA D A .
es ti m a te d at s o ul s are c o ns i d e r e d R o m a n
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C a th o lic s T h e r e m a in in
. a r e P r o t e s t a n ts o f di ffe r e n t
r e ligi o u s den o m i n a ti o n s h e C a th o lic s h a v e 1 5 0 p r i e s t s a n d
.
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t h e P r o te s t a n ts 6 8 m i n i s t e r s , tw e n ty e ig h t o f w hich b e l o n g to -
th e Epi s c o p a l e s t a bl is h m e n t F r o m t h i s e s ti m a te it is e a s y to
.
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p er c e iv e h o w i n a d e qu a te m us t b e th e m e a n s o f i n s tr u cti o n e v e n
a m o n g t h e P r o te s t a n t s B u t fa r m o r e i n a d e qu a t e is t h e i n s tr u o
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ti o n e nj o y e d by t h e R o m a n C a t h o lic s “ T h e gr e a t o b j e ct o f .
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th e i r p r i e s ts o b s er v es D r M a th es o n in h is l a te R e p o r t r e
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s tit io n s o f P o p e r y T h e p e a s a n t r y a r e in ge n er a l a q u i e t a n d
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c o n te n t e d r a c e ; b u t gr o s s ly i gn o r a n t n o t o n ly o f th e gr e a t ,
d o ct r i n e s o f Ch r i s ti a n ity b u t e v e n o f t h e fi r s t r u di m e n t s o f
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k n o wl e d ge v e r y fe w o f th e m b ein g a bl e t o r e a d T he y a r e
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e n ti r ely u n d er t h e s pi r it u a l d o m i n a ti o n o f m a n bli n d ly a t ,
t a c h e d to t h e w o r s t c o r r u p ti o n s o f Ch r i s t i a n ity N o r ay o f .
s c r ip t ur e light h a s y e t p e n e tr a te d t h e thick d a r k n e s s th a t s u r
r o u n d s th a t p a r t o f th e p o p ul a ti o n T h e s c r ip tur e s a r e e xcl u .
d e d a n d p r o tes t a n t t e a ch e r s a r e n o t a ll o w e d to i n s tr u ct th e
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i gn o r a n t i f th e p r i es ts c a n p r e v e n t it ; a n d th ei r p o w er o v er
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t h e m i n d s o f t h e p e o pl e is a l m o s t o m n ip o t en t ” .
U p p er C a n a d a is e s ti m a t e d to c o n t a i n a t thi s t im e a b o u t
i n h a b it a n ts O f th is n u m b e r v e r y fe w a r e R o m a n
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ti o n ; t h i r ty fo u r P r e s b y ter i a n ; a n d thi r ty B a pti s t I n c o n s e

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q u e n c e o f t h e r eligi o u s d e s ti t uti o n o f th e i n h a bit a n t s o f C a n a d a ,

t h e e d u c a ti o n o f chil d r e n i s s e r i o u s ly n e gl e c t e d I n th e U pp er .
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p o u n d s a y e ar to a s s i s t in t e s u pp o r t o f a s ch o o l m a s t e r , i f th e
s e ttl er s c o ll e c t tw e n ty chil d r e n a n d p r o c ur e a s t e a c h er B ut
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a s m a n y o f t h e p ar e n t s d o n o t m u c h v a l u e e d u c a ti o n ; a n d t h e
l a b o r o f th e i r c h il d r e n , e s p e ci a lly i f th e y a r e s o n s is s o m u c h ,
n e e d e d o n th e i r fa r m s , a pplic a ti o n s fo r th e go v e r n m e n t gr a n t
a r e c o m p ar a tiv e ly fe w A n d i n c a s e s wh e r e a id is s o u ght a n d
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t h e chil d r e n o n ly a tte n d s c h o o l a fe w m o n th s i n t h e y ea r .
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, , ,
o f c o m m o n s ch o o l e d u c a ti o n will c o m p a r e t o th e e x a lt e d p r iv
i le ge s , w hic h a r e e nj o y e d b y th e c hil d r e n o f th e U n i t e d S t a t es .
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t r uth s h a ll w e b e m o r e d ee ply i m p r e s s e d th a t in r e s p e ct t o t h e
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o n t h e gl o b e t a k e p r e c e d e n c e o f th e p eo pl e o f r e p u blic a n
A m e r ic a .
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a n d a g a i n r o a m fo r a ti m e a m o n g i n h ab it a n ts a s r u d e a n d u n
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a m o n g th e E s qui m a ux .
4 . E S Q U IM AU X .
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co a s t of Am er i ca T h e s e t o th e n o r th e as t o f
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a r e o f l ar ge r s i z e th a n th o s e o f L a b r a d o r ; y e t th ey a re i n fe r i
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s a w b ut a s i n gl e o n e w h o s e h e i ght ex c ee e d fi ve fe e t P a r r y, .
d ur i n g h is s e c o n d v o y a g e , m e a s u r e d o n e w h o w as fi v e fe e t
t e n i n ch e s O f tw e nty i n d i vi d u a l s o f e a c h s e x , m e a s u r e d by
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thi s l a tte r n a vi ga t o r a t I gl o o lik , t h e a ve r a g e h e i ght o f th e

m e n w a s fi v e fe e t fi v e i n c h e s a n d o n e thi r d , a n d th a t o f th e
w o m e n , fi v e fe e t a n d h a l f a n i n c h A di ffe r e n c e m ay b e n o .
tic e d i n th e a c c o u n t o f th e E s q u i m a u x , which d i ffe r e n t w r iter s

h a ve giv e n o f thi s s i n gul a r p e o pl e , d o u btl e s s o wi n g to a re al
d i ff e r e n c e e xi s ti n g a m o n g t h e d i ffe r e n t cl a n s o r tr i b e s We .
s h a ll di r ec t t he a tte n ti o n o f o ur r ea d er s to t h e E s q ui m a ux o f
M e l ville pe n i ns ul a , a n d t h e a dj o i n i n g i s l a nd s , fo ll o wi n g th e
a c c o u n t give n u s i n th e
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se c o n d v o y a ge .
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r a th e r w e ll fo r m e d th a n o th e r s T h e i r fa c es a r e ge n e r a l ]
r o u n d a n d full, e ye s s m all a nd bl a ck , n o s e a l s o s m a ll , a n d s u n k
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fa r i n th e c h ee k b o n e s b u t n o t m u c h fl a t te n e d
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a r e s h o r t , thick a n d cl o se
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p er s o n s , a l m o s t a lw a y s white I n th e y o u n g O f b o th s e x e s ,
.
t h e c o m pl exi o n i s c l e ar a n d tr a n s p a r e n t, a n d th e s ki n
s m o o th T h e c o l o r o f t h e l a tter w h e n div e s t e d o f o il a n d
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s thl t t h e blo od is pl a i n ly p er c e ptibl e wh e n it m o un ts i n to th e

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a n d s tr ai ght T h e m e n u s u a lly we a r it v e r y l o n g , a n d a ll o w
.
i t to h a n g a b o u t th e i r h e a d s in a l o o s e a nd s lo ve n ly m a nn e r .
T h e w o me n p r id e th em se lves o n th e l e n gth a n d thic k n ess o f

th ei r h a i r , a n d wh e n i n cli n e d to b e n e a t, th ey s e pa r ate th e i r
l o ck s i n to t w o e q u al p a r ts , o n e o f whic h h a n gs o n e a c h s id e
o f th e i r h e a d s , a n d i n fr o n t o f th e i r s h o u ld er s I n thi s c o n di.
ti o n it i s b o u n d r o u n d with a s t r a p o f le a the r , a n d h a n gs d o wn
lik e a w hip o r t ai l T hi s m od e o f d re ss in is co n s id ere d n e a t
.
a nd o r n a m e n ta l I n b o th s e x es it is full o v e r m i n , w hich th e y
.
a r e i n th e c o n s t a n t h a bit o f picki n g o ut a n d e a ti n g A m an .
a n d h is wi fe will s it fo r a n h o u r t o g e th e r p e r fo r m i n g fo r e a c h
,
o th er th a t fr ie n dly o ffi ce ’
Wh e n a w o m a n s h us b a n d is ill,
.
s h e w e ars h e r h a i r l oo s e a n d c u t s it O ff a s a s ig n o f m o u r n in
,
w he n h e d ies ; a c us to m a g r e e i n g with th a t of t h e G re en la n
e rs T h e m e n w e a r th e h a i r o n th e u pp e r lip a n d c hi n , fi o m
,
a n i n c h t o a n i n ch a n d a h a l f i n l e n gth a n d s o m e w er e dis ti n
,
g ui s h e d by a little t u ft be twee n th e c hin a n d l o w er lip .

ES Q UI M AUX .
T h e dr es s es o f bo th m a l e a nd
,
bfem a le
s er v e d a m o n g th
as o
e
E s qu i m aux by C a pt P a r r y, w er e c o m p o s e d al m o s t e n ti r e iy o f
.
‘
d e er s ki n T h o s e se e n by M K e e v o r w er e m a d e O f th e s ki n s
.
o f r e i n d e e r , s e a l a n d bi r d s
, T h e o ut er ga r m e n t c o n s i st s o f a
.
j a ck e t, cl o s e , b ut n o t tight c o m i n g d o wn a s lo w a s th e hip s a n d
, ,
h a vin g s l e e ves r e a chi n g to th e w r i s ts I n th a t o f th e w o m e n , .
t h e t a il o r fl a p b e hi n d i s v e r y b r o a d a n d s o l o n g a s a l m o s t t o
,
t o uc h th e gr o un d ; while a s h o r t er a n d n a r r o w e r o n e b e fo r e
r e a ch es h a l f w a y d o w n th e thi h T h e m en h a v e a l so a t a il
.
i n th e hi n d p a r t o f th e i r j a ck e t, ut o f s m a ll e r di m en s i o n s b ut
b e fo r e , it i s ge ne r a lly s t r a i ht o r o r n a m e n t e d by a s i n gl e sc o l
,
lop . T h e h o o d o f t h e j a c e t whic h fo r m s th e o n ly c o v er i n g
,
fo r th e i r h e a d , i s m u c h th e l a r ge s t in th a t o f t h e w o m e n , fo r
t h e p u r po s e o f h o l di a chi ld T h e b a ck o f th e j a ck e t a l s o
.
b ul ges o ut in th e m i d d e to gi v e th e c hild a fo o ti n g a n d a s t r a p ,
o r gi r dl e b e l o w thi s a n d s e c u r e d r o u n d t h e w a i s t b y t wo l ar ge
,
w o o d e n b utt o n s i n fr o n t p r e v e n t s th e i n fa n t fr o m fa lli n g
,
th r o u gh w h e n th e hoo d b ei n g in u s e it i s n e c e s s a ry th us to
, , ,
’
d e p o s it e it T h e s l e e v es o f t h e w o m e n s j a ck e t s ar e m a de
.
m o r e s qu a re a n d l o o s e a b o u t th e s h o u ld er s th a n t h o s e o f t h e
m e n , fo r th e c o n v e n i e n c e o f m o r e r e a d ily d e p o s iti n g a child
i n t h e h o o d ; a n d t h e y h a v e a h abit o f s lippi n g th e i r ar m s o ut
o f th e m , a n d k ee pi n g th e m i n c o n ta ct with t h e i r b o di es , fo r
t h e s a k e o f w a r m th , j u s t a s w e d o with o ur fi n ger s i n o ur
g l o v es in v e r y c o l d w e a t h er .
I n w i n t er e v e r y i n d ivid u a l wh en in th e o p en a ir , w e a r s tw o
, ,
j a ck e t s o f which t h e o ut er o n e h a s th e h a i r o u ts id e a n d th e in
, ,
n er o n e n e xt to the b o dy .O n e n t er i n g t h e b ut th e o u t er gar ,
m e n t is r e m o v e d . T h e i r le g s a n d fe e t a r e s o w e ll cl o th e d th a t
n o d e r ee o f c o l d c a n w e ll a ffe c t th e m Wh e n a m a n go e s o n
g .
a s e a li n g e x c ur s i o n h e fi r s t p ut s o n a p a i r o f d e e r s ki n b o o ts
,
w i t h th e h a i r in s i d e an d r e a c hi n g t o th e k n e e wh er e th e y tie ,
.
O ver th es e c o m e a p a i r o f s h o es o f th e s a m e m a ter i a l ; n ext ,
8. p a i r o f d r e s s e d s e a l s ki n b o o t s p er fe ctly w a ter tight ; a n d

O v er a ll a c o r r e s p o n di n g p a i r o f s h o e s , tyi n g r o u n d th e in s t e p .
T h e E s qui m a ux wh e n t h u s e q u ipp e d m a y a t a ll ti m e s b id d e
, ,
fi a n c e t o th e r igo r o f thi s i n h o s pit a bl e cli m a te ; a n d n o thi n g

c a n e xc e e d th e c o m fo r t a bl e a pp ea r a n c e w hic h th ey e xhibit
e v en i n th e m o s t i n cl em en t w e a th e r .
Th e m os t common or n a m en t c o n s is t s i n s t r i n gs o f tee th , s o m e
ti me s m a n y h un d r e d i n n u m b e r , whic h a r e e i th er a tt a ch e d to
th e l o w e r p ar t o f t h e j a ck e t lik e fr i n ge, o r fa s t e n e d a s a b elt
r o u n d th e w a i s t .M o s t o f th e te et h a r e o f th e fo x a n d w o l f .
T a tt o o i n g, o r m a r ki n g th e b o dy , is c o m m o n a m o n g th e m , a n d
c o nsi d e r ed hi ghly o r n a m e n t al N O w o m a n i s with o u t th em
. .
T h e p a r ts o f th e b o dy th us m a r k e d a r e th e i r fa c es , ar m s , h a n d s ,
t hi h s , a n d in s o m e fe w w o m e n th e b r e a s t s , b u t n e ve r th e fe e t,
g
as i n G r een l a n d .T h e o p e ra ti o n i s e xp e di ti o u s ly m a n a g e d b y
s s i n g a n e e dl e a n d th r e a d , t h e l a tt e r c o v er e d with la m pbl a c k
‘
p a
a nd o il, un d er th e epid er mi s , a c c or d in g t o a p a tt er n , p r evi o u s ly
U NI V E R S A L T R A VEL L E R . 71
m ar k e d o ut u p o n th e s ki n S e ver a l s titc h e s b e i n g thu s t a k en a t

.
o n c e , th e th u m b i s p r e s s e d U p o n t h e p a r t , whil e t h e th r e a d i s
dr a wn th r o u gh , by which m e a n s th e c o l o r i n g m a tte r is r eta i n e d ,
a n d a p er m a n e n t d y e o f a bl ue ti n g e i m p ar te d to t h e s ki n ,
wo m a n exp e r t a t thi s b us i n e ss will p e r fo r m it v er y q uickly a n d
with gr e a t r e gu l a r ity , b ut s e ld o m with o u t d r a wi n g bl o o d in
m a n y pl a c es a n d o cc as i o n i n g s o m e i n fl a m m a ti o n
. .
T h e h o us es of th e E s qu i ma ux va r y in th e di ffe r en t t r ib es o n
th e s h o r es th a t h a v e d r i ft w o o d , th e d we lli n gs a r e o f th a t m a
te r ia l
. G e n e r a lly , th e s u m m e r d we lli n gs ar e te n ts o f s ki ns ,
s u p p o r t e d b y a s i n gl e p o l e i n th e m i d d l e T h e e n tr a n c e is
.
m a d e b y t w o fl a p s t h a t o ve r l a p e ac h o th er B u t i n wi n te r , th e
.
v er y m o n wm e n ts o f th e s e ve r ity o f t h e cli m a te s e r v e a s a d e
fe n c e fr o m i ts r i o r a n d fo r m a n y m o n th s i n th e y e a r , t h e n a
g
tiv es lie u n d er e i fi c es o f s n o w a n d ic e , whic h a r e th e w ar m e s t
a n d fi r m e s t, wh e n m o s t r e q ui r e d to b e w ar m a n d fi r m To .
w a r d s s p r i n g o n ly , th e y be c o m e s ubj e c t t o d r ippi n g , a n d th e in
h a bit a n ts r e m o v e t o t h e i r t e n ts , b e fo r e th ei r h o u s e s b e c o m e
i n s e c u r e T h e s n o w h u ts a r e o f a r e gu l a r ci r c u l a r fo r m , a n d
a r e i n fa ct d o m e s , as c o m pl e te ly a r c h e d a s th o s e o f t h e P a n ~
.
S
th e o n, o r t P e te r T h e y a r e e r e ct e d i n a s h o r t ti m e ; s l a b s
. .
a b o u t s ix i n c h es i n thick ne s s a n d t w o fee t in le n h a r e c ut
,
fr o m th e h a r d c o m p a ct s n o w, a n d l a i d in a ci r cl e 0 fr o m e i ht
g
t o fi ft e e n fe e t in d i a m e ter U p o n th e s e i s l a id a n o th e r t i e r
.
i n cli n i n g a littl e i n w a r d , a n d o th e r l ay er s a r e s u c c es s iv e ly
pl a c e d , u n til n o thi n g r e m a i n s b u t t h e ke y s to n e , whic h is a r t fully
-
a d a p te d . T h e i nn e r e dg es o f t h e bl o ck s a r e s m o o th e d o ff with
a k n i fe . T h e h e ight o f th e d o m e is o fte n t e n fe e t In con .
s tr uc t in it o ne m a n s t a n d s withi n t o pl a c e th e m a t e r i a l s
g , ,
w hic h a r e s uppli e d by a n o th er fr o m with o u t A littl e w a ter fo r .
c e m e n t i s s o m e ti m e s p o ur e d u p o n t h e j o i n ts , a n d it i ns t a n tly
b e c o m e s s o lid i c e T h e d o o r i s c u t th r o u gh th e s o u th er n s id e ,
.
a n d t h e e n tr a n c e is by a c o v e r e d w a y t w e n ty o r thi r ty fee t l o n g .
Wh e n th er e a r e m o r e fa m ili es th a n o n e livi n g to g e th er , s e v er a l
s n o w h u ts a r e b uilt a r o u n d a c o m m o n d o m e , a n d c o m m u n ic a t e
with it by d o o r s T h e ligh t is a d m itte d th r o u gh a wi n d o w o f
.
cl e a r ic e fo ur i n ch e s in thick n e s s , a n d t w o fe e t in di a m ete r ; thi s

light i s v er y s o ft a n d a gr ee a bl e, lik e th a t w hic h p as s es th r o u g h
g r o un d gl a s s .
A b a n k o f i c e o r s n o w is r a i s e d ne a r ly a r o un d th e wh o l e
a p a r t m e n t a n d thi s i s th e fo u n d a ti o n o f t h e b e d s a n d fi r e pl a c e s .
,
F o r th e b e d s thi s b a nk is c o v e r e d with s t o n e s , p a d d l e s , bl a d es
,
o f w h al e b o n e a n d twig s ; o v e r th e s e a r e s p r e a d s o m a n y
,
s k in s th a t t h e b e d s a r e b o th w a r m a n d d r y T h e o n ly fi r e
.
u s e d i n thi s s e v e r e cli m a t e i s t h a t o f a l a m p to e a c h fa m ily

,
.
T h e l a m p is a s h a ll o w s t o n e v e s s e l with a wic k o f d r y m o s s
di s p o s e d r o un d t h e e d e T h e l e n gth o f thi s i s e i ghtee n i n c h e s ,
.
a n d wh e n it i s a ll lig te d p r o d u c e s a b r illi a n t li gh t with o ut ,

,
s m o k e or s c e n t It i s fe d by th e d r ippi n gs o f a pi e c e o f bl u b
.
¢
ber s u s p en d e d o v er i t A r o u n d th e l am p I S s us p end e d a fr am e,
.
72 U NIVE R S A L T R A VE LLE R .
ES Q U I M AU X .
w hich is c o v er e d with gar me n t s to b e d r i e d ; fo r wh e n e ve r a n

E s q ui m a u x c o m es in h e t a k e s o ff h is o ut w ar d j a ck e t a n d
,
m itt en s b r u s h es o ff th e s n o w, a n d h a n g s th e m by th e l a m p
, .
T h e o nly v e s s e l fo r c o o ki n g is a s t o n e p o t which i s s u s p en d e d
‘
, ,
o v er th e l a m p ; a n d th e p r i n cip a l di s h e s fo r fo o d , a r e a w o o d en
t r ay , a c up o f th e h o r n o f th e m u s k o x a n d a v ess e l m a d e o f ,
s ki n s l a c e d tightly o v e r a fr a m e
*
.
In enu m er a ti n g th e f th eir foo d w e m ight p e r h a p s

a r t i c l es o ,
giv e a li s t o f e v e r y a n i m a l i n h a biti n g th e s e r e i o n s , as th ey
c e r t a i nly will a t ti m es e a t an y o n e o f th em T e ir p r i n cip a l .
d e p en d a n c e , h o w e v e r i s o n th e r ei n d e er m u s k o x in t h e p ar t s
, , ,
w h e r e thi s a n i m a l i s fo u n d ; wh al e w a l r u s th e la r ge a n d s m a ll
,
,
s e a l an d t w o s o r t s o f s a l m o n T h e l atter i s t a k e n b y h o o k s in
fr es h w a te r l a k es , a n d t h e fo r m e r b y s p e a r i n g i n t h e s h o a l w a t er
.
o f c er t a i n i n l e t s o f t h e s e a O f a ll th es e a n i m a l s th ey c a n o n ly
p r o c ur e i n th e w in te r th e w a l r u s a n d s ma ll s e a l u p o n thi s p a r t
.
,
o f t h e c o as t ; a n d th es e a t ti m e s , i n s c a r c e ly s uffici en t q u a n
,
ti ty fo r th e i r s ub s i s ten c e .
I n g e n e r a l th e y p r e fe r e a ti n g th e i r m e a t c o o k e d a n d wh il e
, ,
th ey h a v e fuel th ey u s u a lly b o il it ; b u t thi s i s a l uxu r y a n d
, ,
n o t a n e c es s ar y to th e m O ily a s t h e n atur e o f th e i r p r i n ci
.
p a l f o o d is , y
e t th e y c o m m o n ly t a k e a n e q u a l p r o p o r ti o n o f
l e a n to th e i r fa t a n d u n l e s s v e r y h un gr y , d o n o t e at it o th e r
,
w is e .O il th ey s eld o m o r n ev e r u s e in a ny w ay as a p a r t o f ,
th e i r g e n e r a l d i e t ; a n d e v e n o u r b utt er , o f which th ey w er e
fo n d , t h ey w o u l d n o t e a t with o u t a d ue q u a n tity o f b r e a d
,
.
T h ey d o n o t lik e s a lt m e a t a s w e ll a s fr e s h a n d n e v e r u s e s a lt ,
th e m s e lv e s b ut s hip s p o r k o r e v e n r e d h e r r i n g did n o t c o m e
’
, ,
a m i s s to th e m O f p e a s o u p th e y w o ul d e a t a s m u ch a s t h e
.
-
.
s a il o r s c o u ld a ff o r d t o giv e th e m ; a n d th a t w o r d w a s t h e o n ly
o n e wit h t h e e xc e pti o n o f o u r n a m e s
, whic h m an y o f th e m ,
e v e r l e a r n e d in E n li s h A m n g th i r o w n l u x u r i e s m us t b e
g o . e ,
m e n ti o n e d a r ic h s o u p c all e d ka yo, m a d e o f bl o o d , g r a vy , a n d
W a te r , a n d e at e n q u it e h o t .
T h e i r o n ly dr i n k is w a t er ; a n d o f thi s wh e n th e y c a n p r o ,
c u r e i t, th e y s w a ll o w a n i n c o n c e iv a bl e qu a n tity ; s o th a t o n e
o f th e pr i n cip a l o c c u p a ti o n s o f t h e w o m en d u r i n g t h e wi n t er is , ,
th e th a wi n g o f s n o w in th e o o tkoos eeks o r s t o n e p o t s fo r thi s , ,
p ur p o se T h ey c u t it i n to thi n s lic e s a n d a r e c a r e ful to h a v e

.
,
it cl e a n , o n w hich a cc o u n t t h ey will b r i n g it fr o m a di s ta n c e o f
fi fty y a r ds fr o m th e h u ts T h e y h a v e a n extr e m e di s lik e t o
.
d r in ki n g w a ter m uc h a b o v e th e te m p er a tur e o f I n e a tin g

th e ir m e a l s , t h e m i s tr e s s o f th e fa m ily h a vi n g p r e vi o u s ly ,
c o o k e d t h e m e a t ta k e s a l a r ge l um p o u t o f th e p o t with h e r
,
fi n ger s , a n d h a n d s it to h er h us b a n d , wh o pl a ci n g a p a r t o f it
b e twee n h is t ee th , c uts it o ff with a l ar g e k n i fe in th a t p o s iti o n,
a n d th e n p a s s es th e k n i fe a n d m e a t t o ge th er t o h is n ext n e igh
bo r . I n c uttin g o ff a m o uth ful o f m e a t, th e k n i fe p a sses s o
Goodrich
’
s U nivers al Geograph y .
74 U NI V E R S A L T R A VELL E R .
ES Q UIM A UX .
fa s te n s so tight a b o u t h i m a s to e xcl ud e a ll w e t ; th e r i m a l s o
s e r v es t h e p u r p o s e o f p r e v en ti n g a n y w a t er , whic h m a y h a ve
l o d ge d o n th e d e ck fr o m ge tti n g i n to th e c a n o e T h e p a d d le
,
.
o f t h e E sq ui m a u x is a b o u t te n fe e t l o n g ; n a r r o w i n th e c e n tr e
b r o a d a n d fl a t a t e ith e r ext r e m ity : wh e n s e a te d i n h is c an o e ,
h e t ak e s h o ld o f it by t h e c e n tr e r d ip s e ith e r e n d i n th e w a t e r
t
a lter n a t e ly , a n d th u s h e m o v e s wi t h i n c r e dib l e c e l er ity so

gr e a t i n d e e d , th a t a n E n gli s h b o a t with tw e lv e c ars is n o t
, , ,
a bl e t o k e e p u p with h i m T h e b r o a d fi a t p a r t is g e n e r a lly
.
i n l a id , in a v er y ta s ty a n d fa n ci fu l m a n n e r , with p o r ti o ns o f
s e a h o r s e te e th , c u t i n t o a v a r i e ty o f fo r m s
-
.
T h e d e xter ity with whic h th e y m a n a ge th e s e c a n o e s is r e a l

ly a s to n i s hi n g .N o w e a th e r c a n p r e v en t th e m fr o m g o i n g o ut
t o s e a ; th e y v e n t ur e o ut i n th e m id s t o f t e m p e s tu o u s w hi r l
w i n d s , a n d d r ivi n g s n o ws , with as m u c h c o m p o s ur e as i f it
w e r e a p er fe ct c a l m E v e n th o ugh t h e s e a s h o ul d b r e a k o v er
.
th e m , i n a n i n s ta n t th ey a r e a g a i n s e en flyi n g a l o n g th e r id ge
o f th e w a v e .
In es ti m a ti n g qui m a ux w h o m C a pt
th e ch a r a ct er o f th e E s .
P ar r y s a w , h e o b s er v e s th a t in th e i r tr a n s a cti o n s a m o n g th e m
,
s e lv e s , with fe w e xc e pti o n s , t h e s t r ict e s t h o n es ty p r e v a il s a n d ,
in th e e a r ly p a r t o f h i s i n te r c o u r se with th e m , t h e i m p r es s i o n
d er iv e d fr o m th e i r c o n d uct w as a fa v o r a bl e o n e M a ny ih .
s t a n c e s o c c u r r e d w h e r e th e y a pp e a r e d e v e n s c r u p u l o u s i n r e
,
t ur n i n g a r ticl e s th a t d id no t b e l on g to th e m ; a n d thi s to o , ,
wh e n d e te cti o n o f a th e ft o r a t l e a s t o f th e o ffe n d e r , w o ul d
,
h a v e b ee n n e xt to i m p o s s ibl e A s th e y g r e w m o r e fa m ili a r
.
,
a n d th e t e m pt a ti o n s b e c a m e s t r o n g er , th e y gr a d ua lly r e l a x e d
i n t h e i r h o n e s ty a n d p e tty t h e fts w e r e fr o m ti m e t o ti m e c o m
,
m itte d by s e v e r a l i n divid u a l s , b o t h m al e a n d fe m al e D u e al .
l o w a nc e h o w ev er , h e a d d s s h o uld b e m a d e fo r th e te m p ta
, ,
ti o n t o whic h th e y we r e d aily e xp o s e d a m id s t th e b ou n dl e s s ,
s t o r e s o f w e a l t h whic h o ur s hip s a pp e a r e d t o th e m t o fur n i s h .
A m o n g th e u nfa vo r a bl e t r a i ts o f th e i r ch ar a cte r m us t b e
r e ck o n e d a n e xt r e m e di s p o s iti o n t o en vy I f w e h a d m a de .
a ny p r e s en t s i n o n e h u t o b s er v e s t h e s a m e w r it e r th e i n m a te s
, ,
o f th e n e xt w o uld n o t fa il to t ell u s o f it a c c o m p a n yi n g th e i r ,
r e m a r k s with s o m e s a ti r ic a l o b s e r v a ti o n s t o o u n e qu iv o c a lly ,
e xp r e s s e d to b e m i s t a k e n , a n d g e n e r a lly by s o m e s tr o k e o f
ir o n y di r e c te d a ga i ns t th e fa v o r e d p e r s o n A n d it w a s n o t .
u n c o m m o n t o s ee a gr o u p o f w o m en s itti n g i n a b ut fo r h o u r s
t o g e th e r , m a ki n g s o m e a b s en t p e r s o n th e s ubj e ct o f th e i r j o k e
a n d r idic u l e ; n o w a n d th e n m i m icki n g th e p er s o n o f wh o m
th ey s p o k e to th e i r gr e a t s atis fa cti o n a n d a m us e m en t .
A n o th e r e qua lly un fa v o r a b l e tr a it i s th e i r i ng r a ti tud e E v e n . .
child r e n a pp e a r to i n d ulg e fe w s e n ti m en t s o f ki n d ne s s t o w a r ds
th ei r p ar en ts , a n d in n o c a s e s c a r c ely o n r ec ei vin a p r es en t,
fr o m us w o uld th e y c o n d es c e n d to t h a n k u s
,
S e fi s h n es s i s .
in fac t almo s t with out ex cep ti o n th e ir un iv er s a l c h ar acter is tic,

U NIVE R S A L TR A VELLER . 75
C H A R ACT E R .
a nd t h e m a i n s p r i n g o f a ll th e i r a cti o n s , a n d th a t, to o , o f a
k i n d th e m o s t d i r e ct a n d u n a m i abl e th a t c a n b e i m a gi n e d .
I n t h e fe w o pp or tun iti e s w e h a d to p u t th e i r h o sp i t a li t to
th e te s t, w e h a d e v e r y r e a s o n to b e pl e as e d with th e m . o th
a s t o fo o d a n d a c co m m o d a ti o n , th e b es t th ey h a d w er e a lw a y s
a t o u r s er vic e ; a n d th e i r a tt e n ti o n , b o th i n kin d a n d d e gr e e .
w a s e v e r y thi n g th a t h o s pit a li ty a n d e v e n g o o d b r eed i ng c o ul d

dict a te T h e ki n d ly o ffic es o f d ry i n g an d m en din g o u r cl o th e s ,
.
c o o ki n g o u r p r o vi s i o n , a n d th a wi n g s n o w fo r o ur d r i n k , w er e
p er fo r m e d by th e w o m e n wit h a n o b ligi n g c h e er ful n ess , whic h
w e s h a ll n o t e a s ily fo r ge t, a n d whic h c o m m a n d e d its d ue s h a r e
,
o f a d m i r a ti o n a n d es t e e m .
T h e e s ti m a ti o n i n w hich wom en a r e h eld am o n g th e s e p e o pl e

i s , I thi n k , s o m e wh a t gr e a t e r th a n is us u a l i n s a v a ge li fe . In
th e ir ge n er a l e m pl oy m e n t s , th e y a r e by n o m e a n s th e dr u dge s
th a t th e wi v es o f t h e G r e e n l a n d er s a r e s a id to b e ; b e i ng c c
c up ie d o n ly i n th o s e c a r e s whi c h m ay p r o p er ly b e c a ll e d d o
m e s ti c , a n d s u ch a s ar e c o ns id er e d t h e p e c uli a r b us in es s o f
t h e w o m e n a m o n g th e l o w er cl a s s e s in civili z e d s o ci e ty . The
w i fe o f o n e o f th es e p e o pl e, fo r i n s t an c e, m a k e s a n d a tt e n ds
t h e fi r e, c o o k s t h e v ictu a l s, l o o k s a fte r t h e chil dr e n , a n d is
s e m p s t r e s s to h e r w h o l e fa m ily ; w hil e h e r hus b a n d is l a b o r
i n a b r o a d fo r th e i r s u b s i s t e n c e .
h e m o s t l a b o r io us o f th e i r t a s k s o cc ur s p er h a p s i n m a ki n g
t h e i r va r i o u s j o u r n ey s , w h e n a ll th e ir go o d s a n d c h a tt e ls a r e
t o b e r e m o v e d at o n c e , a n d wh en e a ch i n di v id ua l m u s t u n
d o ubte dly p e r fo r m a full s h ar e o f th e ge n e r a l l ab o r T h e w o
.
m e n , h o w e ve r , a r e go o d w a lk er s , a n d n o t e a s ily fa ti ed ; fo r
w e h a v e s e v er a l ti m es kn o w n a y o ung w o m a n 0 t wo a n d
t w en ty, w ith a c hi ld i n h er h o o d , w a lk tw elv e m il es t o th e
s hip s , a n d b a ck a ga i n t h e s a m e d ay , fo r th e s a k e o f a littl e
b r e a d d u st , a n d a tin c a n i s t e r . W h en s t ati o n ar y in th e w i n ter,
t h e y h a v e r ea lly a l m o s t a s i n e c u r e o f it, s itti n g qu i e tly in th e ir
h u ts , a n d h a vi n g little o r n o e m pl o y m e nt fo r t h e gr ea ter p a rt
o f t h e d ay . I n s h o r t, th e re a r e fe w , i f a ny p eo pl e, i n thi s s t a t e
o f s o ci e ty , a m o n g wh o m th e w o m e n a r e s o w ell o ff . T h e y al
w a ys s it u p o n th e b e d s w ith th ei r l e gs d o uble d un d er th e m ,
a n d a r e u n e a s y i n th e p o s t ur e us u a l w ith u s . T h e m en s o m e
ti m es s it a s w e d o, b ut m or e gen er ally with th e i r l e gs c r o s s e d
b e fo r e th e m .
T h e p a r en t a l af ecti on o f th i s e O p le m er its di s ti n gui s h e d

p r a i s e N o thi n g i n d ee d c a n w el e xc e e d th e kin d n e s s with
.
w hic h th e y tr e a t th e i r child r en C o r p o r ea l p un is h m en t is n u
.
k n o wn, a n d , i n d e e d , th e r e s e ld o m a pp e ar s a n y o c c as io n fo r
—
i t t h e g e n t le n e s s a n d d o cility o f c hil d r e n r en d er in g s e ve r ity
t o w ar d s th e m q u it e u n n e c es s a ry . E ve n fr o m th e i r e a r li e s t in
fa n cy , t h ey p o s se s s th a t q u i e t di s p o s iti o n , ge n t l en ess o f d e
m e an o r, a n d u n c o m m o n e ve nn e s s o f te m p e r , fo r whic h in
m or e m at u r e a ge t h e y a r e fo r th e m o s t p a r t di s ti n gu i s h e d .
Di s o b ed i e n c e i s s c ar c e ly e ver k n o w n , a w o r d o r e v e n a l o ok
fr o m a p a re nt is e n o u gh ; a nd I n e v e r sa w a s i n gl e i ns ta nce o f
78 U NIVER S A L T R A V E LL E R .
ES Q UI M A U X .
th at fr o w ar d n e s s a n d di s p o s iti o n to mi s chi e f, whic h with o u r ,

y o u th s o o ften r e quir es t h e wh o l e a tte n ti o n o f a p a r en t to
,
w a tc h o ve r a n d to c o r r e c t T h ey n ev er c r y fr o m tr ifli n g a o
.
ci d e n t s , a n d s o m e ti m e s n o t e v e n fr o m v e r y s e v er e h u r t s a t
,
w hic h a n E n gli s h child w o ul d s o b fo r a n h o u r It is i n d e e d .
a s t o n i s hi n g t o s ee th e i n d i ffer e n c e with which e v e n te n d e r ih

fa uts b e a r t h e n u m e r o u s bl o w s th e y a cci d en t a lly r e c e iv e wh en ,
’
c a r r i ed a t th ei r m o th er s b a ck s .
Wh e n n o t m o r e th a n e ight y e a r s o ld , th e b oy s a r e t a k e n by
th e i r fa th e r s o n th ei r s e a li n g e xc u r s i o n s whe r e th e y be gi n t o ,
l e ar n th e i r fu t u r e b u s i n es s a n d e v e n a t tha t e a r ly a ge , th ey
a r e o cc a s i o n ally i n tr us t e d t o b r i n g h o m e a s l e d ge a n d d o g s
fr o m a d is t a n c e o f s e ve r a l m il e s o v er t h e i c e A t th e a ge o f .
e l e v e n , w e s e e a b o y with h i s w a t e r ti gh t bo o ts a n d m o cc a s i ns ,
-
a s p e a r i n h i s h a n d , a n d a s m a ll c o il o f li n e a t h i s b a ck , a o
c o m p a n yi n g th e m e n to th e fi s h er y , u n d er e v e r y ci r c u m s t a n c e ;
a n d fr o m t h i s ti m e hi s s er vic e s d a ily i n c r e a se i n v a l u e to t h e
W h o l e t r i be .
T h e S l ed g es whic h a r e d es i g n e d fo r eXp e d iti o u s t r a v elli n g,

a r e a b o ut t w o fe e t wid e , a n d fi ve fe e t lo n g T h os e , h o w e v er .
,
w hic h a r e d es ign e d fo r c a r r y in g b ur d e n s ar e fr o m s ix t o el e v e n
,
fe et in l ength . T h e r un n e r s a r e so m e ti m es m a d e o f t h e r i gh t
a n d l e ft j a w b o n e s o f a wh a l e b u t g e n e r a lly o f s e v e r a l pi e c e s
,
o f w ood or b o n e l a s h e d t o ge t h e r w i th th e i n t e r s tic es s t u ff e d
,
w ith m o s s , a n d th e w h o l e s e c u r e d by a c o a ti n g o f i c e h eld t o
t h by t h e v e r ity o f th e cli m a t e
g e e r e s .
D ogs a r e e m pl o y e d i n d r a wi n g th es e s l e dg es , whic h th e y d o
o fte n a t th e r a t e o f tw e lv e mi l e s a n h o u r T e n d o g s m a ke a .
full te a m T h r e e d o gs o n c e d r e w C a p ta i n Ly o n o n a s l e d ge
‘
w e i ghi n g o n e h u n dr e d p o u n d s , a mi l e in s ix m i n u tes O n a .
go o d s u r fa c e , s ix o r s e v en d o gs dr a w n e a r ly a th o us a n d w e igh t
.
s ixty m il es i n a d a y Wh en t h e r e i s n o s n o w th e d o gs a r e
.
,
m a d e t o c a r r y b u r d e n s o f a b o ut tw e n ty fi ve p o u nd s e a c h in a -
ki n d o f p a n n ie r s .
T h es e d o s, in th e fo r m o f th e i r bo di es , ha v e s h or t p r ic k e d
e a r s , thi c k ur r y c o a t s , a n d b u s hy t a il s , s o n e a r ly r es e m bli n g
t h e w o l f o f t h e se r e gi o n s , th a t w h e n o f a li ght o r b r i n d l e c o l o r ,
th ey m a y e a sil y a t a littl e di s t a n c e b e m i s t a k e n fo r th a t a n i m a l .
T h e c ol o r o f t h e d egs v a r i e s fr o m a w h it e , th o u g h b r i n d l e d , to
bl a ck a n d whi te o r a l m o s t en ti r e ly bl a ck S o m e a r e a l s o o f
,
.
a r e ddi s h o r fe r r u gi n o u s c o l o r a n d o th e r s h a v e a b r o w n i s h r e d
ti n ge o n th e i r l e g s , th e r es t o f th e i r b o di e s b e i n g o f a d a r k e r
c o l o r , a n d th e s e l as t w e r e o b s er ve d t o b e ge n er a lly th e b e s t
d o gs T h e i r h a ir in th e wi n ter is fr o m th r e e t o fo ur i n ch e s
.
l o n g ; b ut b es id es thi s, n a t ur e fur ni s h e s t h e m d ur i n g thi s r igo r

o us s e a s o n , with a thick u n d er c o ati n o f cl o s e s o ft w o o l
- Gr
t
w hic h th e y b e gi n t o c a s t in th e s p r i n g i Vh ile th u s p r o vid e d,

’ .
th e a r e a bl e to wi t h s t an d th e m o s t i n cl e m e n t w e a th e r with o u t
s u e r i n g fr o m th e c o l d , a n d a t w h a t e v e r t e m p e r a tu r e th e a t
m o s p h er e m ay b e, th ey r eq ui r e n o thi ng b ut a sh e l ter fr o m th e
U NI V E R S A L T R A VELLE R . 77
M ARR I A G E — I N T E R M E N T OF
. T HE DEAD
wi n d to m a ke th e m c o m for t abl e , and e ven this t h ey do n o t ai
w ay s o bt a i n .
T h e E s q u im a u x pp a ea r t o h a ve n o
id e a o f th e ex i s t e n c e o f
o ne S u p r em e B ei n n o r c a n th e y b e s a id to e nt e r t a i n a ny
g ,
n o ti o n s o n thi s s ubj ec t, which m ay b e dign ifie d with th e n a m e
o f r eli g i on . T h e i r s u p e r s titi o n s a r e n um er o us, b ut a ll o f th e m
h a v e r e fe r en c e to th e s u p er n a tu r a l a g e n cy o f a n um be r o f s pi r
its , with wh o m o n c e r ta i n o c c as i o n s th e i r s o r c er ers p r e te n d
, ,
t o h o ld m y s te r i o u s i n t er c o u r s e a n d wh o in v a r i o us a n d dis
,
t i n ct w a y s a r e s u pp o s e d t o p re s i d e o ve r th e d e s ti ni e s o f th e
E s qu i m a u x O n p a r tic u l a r o cc a s i o n s o f s ick n ess o r w a n t o f
.
fo o d t h e s o r c e r e r s c o n tr iv e by m e a n s o f a d a r k en e d h ut, a
,
p e c uli a r m o d ul ati o n o f v o ic e a n d th e u tteri n g o f a v ar i e ty o f

,
u n i n t e lli gibl e s o u n d s t o p e r s u a de th e i r c o u n tr y m e n th a t th e y
,
a r e d e s c e n di n g t o t h e l o w e r r e gi o n s fo r thi s p u r p o s e wh e r e
, ,
th e y fo r c e t h e s pi r its to c o m m uni c a te th e d es ir e d i n fo r m a ti o n .
T h e s up er s tit i o u s r e v e r e n c e i n which th e s e w iz a r d s a r e h e ld ,
a n d a c o ns i d er a bl e d e gr e e o f i n g en u ity w ith whic h th ey p e r
fo r m th e i r m um m e r y , p r ev en t t h e d e t e cti o n o f th e i m p o s tur e,
a n d s e c u r e i m plicit c o n fid en c e in th e s e a b s u r d o r a c les .
Th e-m a r r i a g e cer em on y a m o n t h e E s q u i m a ux a pp ea r s to
g
b e v e r y s i m pl e , c o n s i s ti n g o nly i n th e h u s b a n d c o m i n , w h en
’ g
d e s i r e d , t o t h e h u t o r t n t o f th e b r id e s fa th er , a n d t a k i n g h e r
t o h is o w n by fo r c e . b e r e l u ct a n c e o f th e b r id e , w hic h i n
m o s t c a s e s i s o f c o u r s e fe ig n e d , is e xp e cte d to b e s t r o n gly
m a ni fe s t e d , a n d ser v es a s a n o c c a s i o n o f n o s m a ll s p o r t a n d
a m u s e m e nt .
I n thi s c o n n exi o n , it m a y b e a dd e d , th a t th e c u s to m o f b e
“
t r o thi n g chil d r e n i n th e i r i n fa n cy i s co m m o n] p r a cti s e d h ere

h
.
T h e m e n s el d o m t a k e m o r e th a n t w o wi v es ut th e r e i s g e n e
r a lly a di ffer e n c e o f fi v e o r s ix y e ar s i n th e i r a ge s T h e s eni o r .
w i fe t a k e s h er s t a ti o n n e xt to t h e p r i n cip a l fi r e , whic h c o m es
di r e ctly un d er h e r m a n a g e m e n t I n s o m e r es p e ct s , s h e is
.
c o n s i d er e d s up er i o r to th e o th er , th o u gh th ey u s ua lly liv e to
ge th er i n t h e u t m o s t h a r m o n y .
I n th e i n ter m en t of th ei r d ea d, th e E s q ui m aux t a k e v e r y littl e

c ar e, e s p e ci ally i n the wi n te r s e a s o n T hi s a p p e a r s to a r i s e .
fr o m s o m e s u p e r s titi o us n o ti o n s , a n d p ar tic u l ar ly fr o m th e b e
li e f; th a t a ny w e i h t u p o n th e c o r p s e w o uld h a v e a n in j u r i o us
e ffe ct u p o n th e e c e a s e d , in a fut ur e s ta te o f e xis te n c e ; fo r
e v e n in s u m m e r , wh e n it w o uld b e a n e a s y m a tt er t o s e c u r e a
b o dy fr o m th e d e p r e d a ti o n s o f wild a n i m a l s , t h e m o d e o f b ur i al
i s n o t e s s e n ti a lly di ffe r en t T h e c o r p s e o f a c hild o b s e r v e d by
.
Li eu te n a n t P a l m er , h e d e s c r ib e s a s b e i n g l a id in a r egula r , b ut
s h a ll o w g r a v e
,
with h i s h e a d t o t h e n o r th e a s t It w a s d e c en t .
ly d r e s s e d in a go o d d e er s ki n j a ck e t, a n d a s e al s ki n p r e p a r e d
-
wi th o u t t h e h a i r w a s c ar e fully pl a c e d a s a c o v e r t o th e w h o l e
fi gur e ; a n d tu ck e d i n o n a ll s id es T h e b o dy w as c o v er ed
.
*
7
78 U N I V ER S A L T R A VELLER .
G R EE N LA N D
w ith fla t pi e c es o f li m e s to n e whic h h o w e v er w er e s o li ght th a t
,
a fo x m ight e a s ily h a v e r e m o v e d th e m N e ar th e gr a v e w er e
.
fo u r littl e s e p a r a t e p il es o f s t o n es n ot m o r e th a n a fo o t i n
,
h e ight, i n o ne o f whic h w e n o tic e d a p i e c e o f r e d cl o th , a n d a

bl a ck s ilk h a n d k er chi e f i n h
t e s e c o n d a p a i r o f chil d s b o o ts
’
a n d mi t t e n s , a n d i n e a c h o f th e o th er s a w h a l eb o n e p o t The .
fa c e o f t he c hil d l o o k e d u n us u a lly cl e a n a n d fr e s h , a n d a fe w
d a y s o nly c o u ld h a v e e l a p s e d s i n c e its d e c e a s e .
C a pt a i n P a r r y i n fo r m s u s , th a t h e o n c e wit n es s e d th e m an ~
n e r i n which a n E s qu i m a u x p r oc ee d e d o n t h e o cc a s i o n o f h is
’
wi fe s d e a th F i r s t, h e p r e p a r e d to d r e s s t h e d e a d b o d y b y
.
,
s t o ppi n g h i s n o s e w ith d ee r s h a i r
’
H a vi n g d o n e w h ich , h e
.
p u t o n h is gl o v es fr o m a n e vi d e n t wi s h n o t t o t o u ch th e c o r p s e
,
wi th h is n a k e d h a n d E v e r y p ar t o f th e d r e s s w a s c ar e fully
.
a dj u s t e d a s wh en s h e w a s li vi n g T h e gr a v e p r e p a r e d w a s
.
a b o ut o n e fo o t i n d e pth , a n d wh e n th e b o d y w a s pl a c e d in it,
t h e h u s b a n d c ut a ll t h e s titch e s o f th e h a m m o c k o r w r a pp er ,
i n which th e b o d y h a d be e n e n cl o s e d b y t h e E n gli s h The .
d e a th o f a c hil d s o o n fo ll o w e d th a t o f th e m o th er T hi s w a s .
b ur i e d a t s o me d i s t a n c e fr o m th e m o th e r , th e h us b a n d a s s i gn
i n g as a r e a s o n t h a t th e m o t h e r w o u l d cr y in h e r gr a v e i f p r e s s
,
e d by h e r i n fa n t T o y s a n d p r es en ts w er e b ur i e d with i t
. .
T h e t h r e e fo ll o wi n g d a y s th e fa t h e r a n d th e r e s t o f th e fa m ily
,
n e i th e r w a lk e d a b r o a d n o r p er fo r m e d a n y ki n d o f w o r k Ev e n .
t h e n e c e s s ar y a b l uti o n s o f t h e i r h a n d s an d fa c es w er e n e gl e ct e d .
A t th e expi r a ti o n o f t h r e e d ay s , h e vi s it e d t h e gr a ve o f h i s wi fe ,
wh o m h e a d d r e s s e d in c o n v e r s a ti o n te lli n g h e r h o w th e wi n d
,
b l e w , l o o ki n g a t th e s a m e ti m e in t h e d i r e c t i o n fr o m which it
c a m e He n e xt b r o k e fo r t h in a lo w m o n o to n o u s ch a n t, a n d
.
k e e pi n g h i s ey es fix e d o n t h e g r a v e , w a lk e d sl o wly r o u n d in
th e d i r e cti o n o f t h e s u n fo u r o r fi v e ti m es a n d at e a ch ci r c u it ,
s t o pp e d a fe w m o m e n t s a t th e h e a d A t th e e xpi r a ti o n o f
.
a b o u t e ight m i n u t e s , h e s to pp e d a n d t u r n i n g s ud d e n ly r o u n d
,
”
t o m e , e xcl a i m e d ’
T u gwa , (th a t s e n o ugh , ) a n d b e g a n w a lk
in g b a ck to th e s hip
5 G RE ENL A N D .
In s ta tur e, th e G r een la nd er s
l d o m e xc e e d fi v e fe e t, an d
se
fr o m th ei r m a nn er o f livi n g a r e i n cli n e d t o b e fa t Th e i r fa c e .
i s l a r ge a n d b r o a d th e n o s e n o t v e r y fl a t b u t s m all a n d s h o r t ;
, ,
th e n o s tr il s s o m e wh a t wi d e th e c h e e k b o n e s hig h th e ch ee k s
, ,
r o un d a n d pl u m p T h e fa c e fr e q ue n tly a pp e a r s fa ll e n i n q u ite
.
,
a c r o s s b e twe e n th e t e m pl e s T h e fo r e h e a d i s lo w th e e y es
.
,
s m a ll bl a ck d u ll a n d d r o o pi n g b u t h a vi n g t h e p o w e r t o di s
, , , ,
t in guis h a cc u r a te ly a t a g r e a t di s t a n c e T h e ey e lid s a r e .
d r a w n t o w a r d s t h e t e m pl e s th e m o uth i s g e n e r a lly s m a ll a n d
'
r o u n d ; th e t e e th r e g u l ar a n d b e au ti fu lly w hit e
,
t h e li p s thick,
a n d tu rn e d o ut w ar d s ; th e u n d e r l ip s o m e w h a t thick e th a n r
CHA A CT R ER — HU N TING A N D F I S H I NG .
th e upp e r .T h e i r b e ar d s a n d ey e b r o w s a r e thi n , b ut th e y h a v e
a b un d a n c e o f h a i r o n t h e h e a d , which i s bl a ck , l o n g, c o a r s e,
a n d s t r a i gh t T h ei r n e ck s a r e s h o r t, th e i r l e gs thi n b u t th e i r
. .
fe e t a n d h a n d s a r e s m a ll a n d w e ll fo r m e d ; th e i r h e a d s a r e
u n c o m m o n ly l a r g e T h e s h a p e o f t h e w o m e n i s s i m il a r t o
.
th a t o f th e m e n , a n d t h ey r e s e m bl e th e m s o n e ar ly , t h a t o n e
c a n n o t a t fi r s t d i s ti n g u i s h th e s e x es , t h e d r e s s es b e i n g n e a r ly
th e s am e T h e a pp e a r a n c e o f th e w o m e n i s by n o m e a n s
‘
.
fem i n i n e th ey h a ve hi gh b r e a s t s a n d b r o a d s h o u l d e r s , b e i n g
a c c us t o m e d wh e n y o u n g t o l a b o r h a r d , a n d c a r r y g r e a t b u r
d ens . T h e G r e e n l a n d e r s a r e o f a y e ll o wi s h g r a y c o l o r , whic h
a pp r o a c h e s s o m e w h a t t o o liv e gr e e n b u t thi s m ay b e a tt r ib
“
u te d n o t o n ly t o t h e cli m a t e , b u t t o th e i r d i r t y h a b i ts , a n d t o
t h e g r e a t qu a n tity o f s m o k e a n d s o o t whic h th e i r h o u s e s c o n
ta i n ; fo r t h e i r c hild r e n are b or n as whit e a s any E ur o p e a n
c hild .
T h e G r een la n d er s a r e v er y s o ci a b l e ; a lth o u gh t h ey d o n o t
liv e i n t o w n s o r vill a ges , th e y lik e t o vi s it a n d to b e vi s it e d A .
m an o r w o m a n n e v e r p ay s a V i s it to a p e r s o n r e s idi n g a t a
d i s t a n c e , wi th o ut m a ki n g s o m e p r e s e n t , e ith e r a s ki n o r fo wl
o r s o m e s i new .T h e y a r e fo n d o f m a ki n g b a r g a i n s , a n d o fte n
p a r t with th e i r m o s t u s e ful ute n s il s in exc h a n g e fo r tr ifi e s , p a r
ti c u l a r ly t o s ati s fy th e c a p r ic e o f th e i r wiv e s N 0 o ne d es i r e s
.
t o u s u r p a n y a u t h o r ity o v e r a n o th e r , t o m a ke r e gul a ti o n s fo r
h im , o r t o c a ll h i m t o a c c o un t fo r h is a cti o n s fo r a s th e y h a v e
n o r ic h e s , o n e i n div id u a l s u pp o r t s a n o th er , th e h e lpl es s fi n d s
r e fug e i n th e h o u s e o f t h e m o r e fo r t un a t e , with o u t b e i n g r e l a
t e d t o h i m , a n d e a c h G r e e n l a n d e r h a s h is l a n d e d p r o p e r ty
w h er e h e r es id e s T h ey m a y th er e fo r e c h a n g e th e i r r e s id e n
.
c e s a s o ft e n a s t h e y lik e W h ate v e r th e s e a d r iv e s o n s h o r e,
.
p a r tic u l a r ly fl o a ti n g ti m b er , i s t h e p r o p e r ty o f h i m w h o h a s
t a k e n it u p a n d b r o u ght i t o n s h o r e N o t w ith s t a n di n g, h o w
.
e v e r , th e i r h o n e s ty t o w ar d s e a c h o th e r , th ey ar e n o t s c r up u
l o us in s t ea li n g fr o m E u r o p e a n s .
T h e G r een la n d er s a r e v er y d ex t er ous i n h u n t i n g a n d fi s h i n
a n d u p o n thi s d e xt er ity th ey a r e o ft e n d e p e n d a n t fo r th e i r fo o
w hic h c o n s i s ts fo r th e m o s t p ar t o f fi s h , s ea ls , a n d s ea fo w ls -
.
I n th ei r m a n n e r o f p r e p a r i n g a n d e a ti n g thi s fo o d , th e y a r e
tr u ly di s g u s ti n g T r a i n o il is th e i r s a u c e , a n d th o u gh w a te r
.
i s th e i r o r di n a r y b e ve r a g e , t h ey p r e fe r t h e bl o o d o f th e s e a l to
a n y o th e r liqu i d A ve s s el is s e l d o m w a s h e d by th e m T h e c o
. .
lo r a n d th e o d o r o f t h e l as t d i s h r e m o v e s th a t o f t h e fo r m er o n e .
T h ey l ay th e i r b o il e d m e a t in w o o d e n di s h es , o f fi r w o o d , m a d e
by th e m s e lv e s , wh ic h a r e n e v e r cl e a n s e d ; a n d fi r s t d r i nk th e
s o u p , o r e a t it with S p o o n s m a d e o f b o n es o r w o o d T h e ir .
u n d r e s s e d m e a t li es o n t h e b a r e gr o u n d o r a n o ld s e a l s ki n .
,
T h e y h a v e n o d e te r m i n e d ti m e fo r d i n n e r , o r s u pp e r b ut
w h e n th e m e n o f th e h o u s e r e tu r n wit h th e g a m e , which ge n
’
er al y h a pp e n s i n th e e v e n i n g , p ar t o f th e d ay s s p o il is i m m e
l
so U NIVE R S A L T R A VE LLER .
GQE EN L AN D .
d ia tely b o il e d , a n d a ll th e p e o pl e wh o liv e in th e ne i ghb o r h o o d

ar e i n vite d .
T h e m en get th e i r m e a l fi r s t, s it ti n g u p o n th e gr o u n d r o un d
a l a r g e w o o d e n di s h , a n d t a ki n t h e m e a t with t h e i r fi n ge r s .
Wh e n thi s is o v e r , th e w o m e n c o i n in th e s a m e s tyl e , b u t a t
th e o pp o s ite e n d o f t h e h o u s e I f th e r e b e a n E u r o p e a n gu e s t ,
.
o r a n y o t h er s t r a n ger p r e s e n t, th e w o m a n o f t h e h o u s e t a k e s
a pi e c e fr o m t h e k e ttl e , lick s it cl e a n fr o m b l o o d a n d s c u m ,
a n d p r e s e n t s it to h im with h e r o w n h a n d s It w o uld b e c o n .
s i d er e d a high d e g r e e o f i m p o lite n e s s t o d e c li n e it .
I n wi n t er th ey li ve i n h o us es , a n d in s u m m e r in t e n ts Wh e n .
th e s u m m er i s o v e r , which i s e n er a lly a t t h e e n d o f A ugu s t,

t h e w o m e n b el o n gi n g to t h e a m i o r t o t h e h o u s e e m pl o y
th e m s e lv e s i n r e p a i r i n g a n o ld , o r i n b uil d i ng a n e w h o u s e .
T hi s is d o n e i n a fe w d a y s a n d th e l a b o r r e s e m bl e s th e liv e
lin e s s o f a n a n t hill -
S o m e c ar r y s t o n e s , s o m e b r i n g s o d ;
.
s e v er a l o th e r s c o n v e y t ur f ti m b e r , s h r ub s , o r e ar th The .
,
w a ll s a r e m a d e o f w a t e r w o r n s to n e s , p u t t o ge th er with t ur f
-
o r s o d , i n s t e a d o f m o r t a r ; a n d th e r o o f is fo r m e d o f a s p e ci e s
o f fl o a ti n g ti m b er It i s fl at, a n d i s c o v er e d with s h r ub s , t ur f
.
o r s o d , with e a r th T h e s t o n e s a r e t a k e n fr o m t h e s h o r e s , as
.
th ey n e v er b u il d a h o u s e a t a gr e a te r d i s t a n c e fr o m th e s ea
th a n tw e nty o r thi r ty p a c es ; th e t i m b e r s a r e p ick e d u p fr o m
t h e s e a d u r i n g th e s u m m e r T h e i r h o us es a r e s o m eti m es r e g
.
u l ar , s o m eti m e s o bl o n g s q u a r e s ; b e i n g fr o m tw e lv e t o e ight ee n
‘
fee t in l e n gt h , a n d fr o m t e n t o tw e lv e fe e t i n b r e a dth Th e .
h e ight is g e n e r a lly s ix feet T h e w a ll s a r e a t th e i r b a s e t w o

.
fe e t, a n d o n t h e t o p o n e fo o t thick T h e e n tr a n c e is u s u a lly
.
u n d e r t h e e ar th , t w o fe e t high , t w o fe e t b r o a d , a n d fr o m tw e lv e
t o fi fte e n fe e t l o n g It is i n th e c e n tr e o f th e h o u s e , a n d ge n
.
e r a lly fa c e s th e s o uth T h e h o u s e h a s n o d o o r , a n d o ne m us t
.
a lw a y s c r e e p i n o n h a n d s a n d fe e t A b o v e th e e n t r a n c e i s
.
o n e , a n d s o m e ti m e s t w o wi n d o w s , whic h ar e m a d e o f th e i n
t e s t in e s o f wh a l es , d o lphi n s , o r s e a l s , s e w e d to ge th e r The .
h o us e c o n s i s t s o f o nly o n e r o o m , a t th e b a ck o f whic h t h er e i s
a ki n d o f s t a ge , r a i s e d fr o m o n e fo o t t o o n e a n d a h a l f fr o m
th e g r o u n d , a n d e xte nd in g th e wh o l e l e n gt h o f t h e h o u s e I t is .
c o v e r e d with s ea ] s ki n, a n d i s us e d a s a b e n ch , c h a i r , t abl e,
a n d b e d s te a d .
T h e ti m e o f r e m o vi n g fr o m th e i r h o u s e s to th e i r t e n t s is n o t
e x a ctly fi x e d
- . I t t ak e s pl a c e ge n er a lly a t t h e e n d o f A p r il , o r
i n t h e m iddl e o f M a y , a s t h e s n o w m e lts s o o n er o r l a t e r ; a n d
it fr e qu e n tly h a pp e ns th a t p a r t o f th e b a dly s upp o r te d r o o f o f
th e h o us e giv e s w ay a n d fa ll s d o w n , a n a c ci d e n t whic h fo r c e s
th e m to r e m o ve to th e i r s u m m e r pl a c e T h e t e nts ar e l ar e r .
a n d s m a ll e r , i n p r o p o r ti o n to t h e s iz e o f th e fa m ily a n d it s o r
t une b ut r a r ely e xc e e d i n g t h e len h o f twe lv e fe e t, a n d th e
b r e a dth o f te n fe e t A w all o n e o o t hi h i s fi r s t m a d e o f
.
s t o n e s a n d s o d s , o n wh ic h th ey r e s t th e p o e s , whic h fo r m a n
a c u te a n gl e d t r i a n gle w ith t h e g r o un d T h e p o l es .
G R E EN L AN D .
Th e vel o city of th e d o s i s a s to n i s hi n g ; th ey m ay be d r iven

g
one hun dr e d m il es i n n i n e o r te n h o ur s .
T wo g a m es
-
f o p ba ll ar e by r ac tis ed
t h e G r e e n l an d e r s — o ne
r es e m bli n g o u r fo o t b a ll , a n d t h e o th e r a c o n te s t b e tw e en t w o
p a r ti e s fo r th e p o s s es s i o n o f th e b all T h ey h a v e a l s o s o m e .
fe a t s o f s t r en gth , p a r tic ul a r ly o f gr a p p lin o r h o o ki n g t h e fi n

g
ge r s t o ge th e r a n d p ulli n g in th a t w a y I h ey a l s o s tr ik e e a c h.
'
o th er with th e h a n d a lt e r n a te ly o n th e b a ck a n d thi s i s c o n ti n ,
u e d with m u c h s e ver ity , till o n e p a r ty yi e l d s T h e wo m en .
s o m e ti m e s d a n c e i n a ci r cl e to th e s o u n d o f a d r u m a n d t o
s i n gi n g T h e d a n c e s o f t h e m e n a r e r a th e r m a tch e s fo r gr i n
.
n i n g a n d gr i m a c es , in whic h th e o n e tr i e s t o o u t d o t h e o th e r i n
m a ki n g hid eo u s fa c es a n d a s s u m i n g gr o te s q u e a ttitu d e s The .
gr e a t s e a s o n fo r r ej o ic in is o n th e r e tur n o f th e s u n, a n d t h e
s u n fe a s t s a r e h e ld by a a t th e s e th e vi a n d s o f t h e c o un tr y
a r e fu r n i s h e d in gr e a t p r o fus i o n .
A n a m u s e m e n t o f a m o r e p a s t o r a l ki n d is a s i n gi n g m at ch ,
t o whic h o n e G r e e n l a n d er i n vites o r ch a ll e n es a n o th er Th e .
fr i e n d s o n b o th s id e s as s e m bl e , a n d th e c h a l en ge r a n d h i s a n
t a go n is t e n d e a v o r t o r e n d e r e a c h o th e r r i d ic ul o u s whil e t h e
fr i e n d s o f e a c h a ppl a u d th ei r fa v or ite T hi s s tr u ggl e i s c o n ~
~ .
t in u e d till o n e p ar t y i s exh a u s te d a n d t h e vi c to r y i s s u pp o s e d
,
t o b e l o n g t o h i m w h o h as th e l a s t w o r d T h e y a r e fa m ili a r .
with th e us e o f i r o n y , which th ey a r e o blige d to use fr o m th e

~
p o ve r ty o f th e 1a ngu a ge i n r e p r o a ch fu l w o r d s T h es e s in in g .
m a tch e s a r e s a id t o b e m a n a g e d w ith m u c h a bility , a n to

a b o u n d in s a ti r e
” .
I t is s i n gu l a r , th a t th e h ea th ens i nh a bi ti n g th is coun tr y,
-
v er y
h a v e n o w or s h ip It w a s b e lie ve d by s o m e n a vig a t o rs , w h o
.
s a w th e G r e en l a n d er s o b s e r vi n g t h e r i s i n g s un in t h e m o r n i n g,
th a t t h ey w o r s hipp e d th e s un T h ey we r e c o n fi r m e d in th e i r
.
o pi n i o n by th e s qu ar e s o f s t o n e s , whic h th ey s a w e r e ct e d fo r
th e p u r p o s e o f th e i r t e n ts , a n d s upp o s e d th ey w er e pl a c es o f
w o r s hip ; b ut th ey h a v e n o r e li gi o n a t all, a lth o ugh th y a r e
n o t with o ut s o m e n o ti o n o f a D ivi n e
-
B
e in g, a n d o f a u t ur e e
t t
s a e
S up r e m B
.
T h ey fr eq u e n tly s p e a k o f a e e i n g , c all e d by th e m
T or n a r s uk, a c o m p o un d o f b a d a n d g o o d , p r o b ab ly a r e m n a n t
o f th e r e li gi o n o f t h e o ld N o r w e gi a n s He is t h e o r a cl e o f t h e
.
An g eku t, o r G r ee n l a n d i s h s o r c e r er s , w h o a r e a l o n e a d m itte d
to h a v e i n ter c o u r s e with th a t gr e a t s pi r it, B e s ide s T o r n ar s uk,
th ey s p e a k o f m a ny i n fer i o r b e i n gs o r s pir i ts r e s id i n g i n e v e r y
c o r n e r o f th e i r c o u n tr y E a c h G r e e n l a n d e r m a y b e c o m e a n
.
g
an e u k t o r c
s o r er er *
i f h e will s ub m it to c e r t a i n t r i a l s a n d
c er e m o ni es ; b ut th e a n ge k u t n e v er e nj o y s a ny p e c u li a r ven e
r a ti o n fr o m t h e G r ee n l a n d e r s He p r o fits by th e s up er s ti ti o us
.
c r e d ulity o f h i s c o u n tr y m en , p r et e n di n g to c ure t h e S i ck Wi th
G eograp h y
’
G o odrich s .
U NIV E R S A L T R A V E LLE R . 83
M A RRI A G E — F U N E R A L S . .
m a gic p r e s e n ti n g a m u l e ts o f s e a l s r e i n d e e r s &c , a s
a r t, a n d , ,
.
a p r e s e r v a tiv e t o th o s e in h e a lth T h e a n ge k u t h a v e th e i r p e .
c u lia r ki n d o f l a n g u a g e, a j ar g o n , u n d e r s t o o d o n ly by t h e m
s e lv e s .
T h e m en s eld om m a r r y b efo r e th e tw en ti eth yea r of th ei r a g e

a n d t h e w om e n i n th e i r s e v e n t e e n th o r e i ght ee n th y e a r The .
b r i d e gr o o m n e v e r c o n c er n s hi m s el f a b o u t m a r r i a ge d o wr y ;
h e i s w ell s a ti s fi ed i f h is b r id e u n d er s t a n d s h o us e wi fe r y th a t
,
is a ll t h e b u s i n e s s whic h w e h a v e a l r e a dy m e n t i o n e d a s b e
,
l o n gi n g to th e fe m a l e T h e p a r en ts n e v e r i n ter fer e b ut th e y
.
,
a l w a y s wi s h th a t t h e i r s o n in l a w s h o u l d b e a g o o d h u n t e r ;
- -
a n d o n t h e o th e r h a n d t h a t t h e wi fe s h o ul d u n d er s t a n d h o us e
,
w i fe r y T h e gi r l a lw a y s m a k e s gr e a t d i ffic ul ti e s r u n s t o t h e
.
,
m o u n t a i n s o r c r i e s p r o fo r m a a n d t h e b r i d e gr o o m g e n er a lly
, ,
t a k es h er by fo r c e fr o m t h e h o u s e o f h er p a r e n t s a n d p u ts h e r , ,
s u pp o r t e d by s o m e o ld w o m e n , i n h is u m i a k whic h is lyi n g o n ,
s hore He b r i n gs h e r t o h is h o u s e a n d th e y a r e c o h s id e r e d
.
,
a s m a r r i ed T h e y n e v er m a r r y t h e i r r e l a ti o n s P o lyga m y i s
. .
n o t v er y c o m m o n a m o n g th e u n c o n v e r t e d a n d i s s tr o n gly p r o ,
h i b i te d a m o n g t h e b a ptiz e d It o cc u r s h o w e v er , th o u gh v e r y
.
,
r a r e l y th a t a h e a th e n h as th r e e o r fo u r wiv e s
,
T h e m o st r e .
s p e c te d o f th e m i s s h e w h o i s s o fo r t un a t e a s t o h a v e b o y s .
I f a wi fe h a s n o chil d r e n s h e h e r s el f o ft en r e q ue s t s t h e m a n
’
,
to t a k e a s e c o n d wi fe it b e i n g th o ught ig n o m i n i o u s a m o n g
,
th e m n o t t o h a v e a fa m ily T h e s e c o n d a n d thi r d wi fe a r e a l
.
w a y s i n fe r i o r in r a n k to t h e fi r s t T h e i r m a r r i a g es a r e n o t .
i n d i s s o l u b l e th e m a n s o m e ti m es p ut s h i s wi fe a w a y a n d t h e ,
wi fe a l s o o c c a s i o n a lly e l o p e s a n d g e n e r a lly r e ti r es to h e r p a
,
r e n t s i f s h e is n o t s a ti s fi e d with th e m a n o r h i s c o n d u c t
, , .
T h ey bu r y th ei r d ea d g en er a lly o n a s m a ll h i l l, in a s itti n g
p o s t ur e d r e s s e d i n th e i r b e s t cl o t h es a n d c o ve r e d with s e a l
, ,
s ki n . T h e l a n d b e i n g a m a s s o f r o ck s th e i n h a bit a n t s a r e ,
o blig e d to b u il d gr a v e s o f s t o n e which a r e c o v e r e d with pl a te s ,
o f m ic a s l a t e o r cl a y s l a t e t o p r e v e n t c a r n iv o r o us a n i m a l s
, ,
fr o m d e s tr o yi n g th e b o d i e s T h e h aj a ks (c a n o e s ) i n s t r u m e n t s
.
, ,
,
a n d u te n s il s a r e pl a c e d b y th e s i d e o f t h e
, gr a v e T h e y r e t ur n .
fr o m th e b ur i a l pl a c e t o th e h o u s e o f th e d e c e a s e d t o c o n ti n ue ,
th e l a m e n t a ti o n whic h c o n s i s ts o f a d r e a d ful m o n o t o n o us
,
h o wli n g s upp o r te d by a ll th e a tte n d a n ts w h o s it with th e i r

, ,
fa c es t u r n e d t o th e g r o u n d Wh en thi s i s o v e r , s o m e r e fr e s h
.
m en t i s t a k en , a n d e a c h r e t ur n s to h is o wn h o us e .
6 . ICEL A N D .
In er s on a l a th e
Ic el a n d e r s a r e r a th e r a b o v e th e
e s iz e w i tp a fr a n k o p e n c o un t e n a n c e fl o r i d c o m pl e xi o n
p ea r a n ce,
m id ,
y e ll o w o r fl a x e n h a i r T h e w o m en a r e s h o r t er in p r o ~
, ,
a nd
’
p o rti o n th a n th e m e n , m o r e i n cli n e d t o c o r p ul e n cy a n d g e ne ,
.
ra lly liv e to a gr ea ter a e I th ly t f li f b th

g n e e ar
p a r o .
e , o s ex es
IC LANE D.
ar e w ea kly , p er h a p s fo r w a n t o f p r o p e r fo o d a n d e x e r ci s e ;
b ut wh e n a r r iv e d a t m a t u r e a ge , th e y a r e c a p abl e o f e n d ur i n g
gr e a t h a r d s hip s . F r o m th e i r w a n t o f p er s o n a l cl e a n li n es s ,
b o th m e n a n d w o m e n m a k e a di s a g r e e a bl e a pp e ar a n c e ; a n d
fr o m thi s ci r c u m s t a n c e , a dd e d t o th e i r b e i n g fr e qu e n tly o bli ge d
to r e m a i n l o n g in th e i r w e t w o o ll e n cl o th e s th ey a r e s ub j e ct t o
c ut a n e o us d i s e a s e s a n d p ul m o n a r y c o m pl a i n ts .
T h ei r p r edo m i n a n t ch a r a ct er th a t o f u n sus p e cti n g fr a n k

is
n es s pi o u s c o n t e n t m e n t a n d a s t e a d y li v e li n e s s o f t e m p e r a
, ,
m e n t c o m bi n e d with a s t r e n gth o f i n t e ll e c t a n d a c ut e n e s s o f
,
m i n d s e l d o m to b e m e t w ith i n o th er p a r ts o f th e w o r l d T h e y .
h a v e a l s o b e e n n o te d fo r th e a l m o s t u n c o n q uer a b l e a tt a ch m e n t
w h ic h th e y fe e l t o th e i r n a tiv e i s l a n d Wi t h a ll th e i r p r iv a ti o ns
.
,
a n d e xp o s e d a s th ey a r e to n um e r o u s d a n g e r s fr o m th e o p e
r a ti o n o f phy s ic a l c a u s e s , th e y liv e u n d e r t h e p r a c tic a l i nflu
e n c e o P o n e o f th e i r c o m m o n p r o v e r b s :
“ I cela n d i s th e b es t
l a n d o n wh i ch th e s un s h i n es .
”
A m o n g th e cu s tom s whic h s er ve to ill u s tr a te th e Ic e l a n dic
c h a r a cte r , th e fo ll o wi n g a r e r e l a te d by D r . H
en d er s o n : B o th
a t m ee ti n a n d p a r ti n g, a n a ffe cti o n a t e ki s s o n th e m o u t h
g
with o u t d i s ti n cti o n o f r a n k , a ge , o r s e x , i s th e o nly m o d e o f
s a l u t a ti o n k n o w n i n Ic e l a n d , e xc e pt s o m e ti m e s i n t h e i m m e
d i a te vici n ity o f th e fa ct o r i e s , wh e r e t h e c o m m o n Ic e l a n d e r
s a l u t es a for e ign e r wh o m h e r e g a r d s a s h is s u p e r i o r , b y p l a
ci n g h i s r igh t h a n d o n h is m o uth o r l e ft b r e as t, a n d th en m aki n g
a lo w b o w . .
Wh e n y o u vi s it a fa m ily i n Ic el a n d , y o u m u s t s a l ute th e m
a c c o r d i n g t o th e i r a ge a n d r a n k , b e gi n n in with th e hi gh e s t,
a n d d e s c e n di n g , a cc o r di n g to y o u r b es t j u gm e n t, t o th e l o w
e s t, n o t e v e n e xc e pti n g t h e s erv a n t s ; b u t o n t a k i n g l e a v e , thi s

o r d e r i s c o m pl e te ly r e v e r s e d ; t h e s a l u t a ti o n i s fi r s t t e n d e r e d t o
th e s er v a n t s , th en t o t h e chil d r e n , a n d l a s t o f a ll, to t h e m i s
tr e s s a n d m a s ter o f th e fa m ily .
o n a n o th e r o c c a s i o n , whil e o n a vi s it a t th e h o u s e o f a M r .
“
Jo h n s o n , h e w r it e s : Wh e n t h e h o ur o f r e s t a pp r o a c h e d , I w a s
c o n d u cte d b y m y ki n d h o s t a n d h o s te s s i n to a b a ck a p a r tm e n t,
wh e r e w a s a n a n ci e n t b u t e xc e ll e n t b e d , o n whic h I h a d ev e r y
r e a s o n to c o n cl u d e , m o r e th a n o n e o f t h e H
o lum Bish op s h ad
r ep o s e d . A c e r e m o ny n o w t o o k pl a c e, w h ic h ex h ib it s , i n th e
s t r o n g e s t li ght, th e h o s pit a lity a n d i nn o c e n t s i m plicity o f th e
Ic e l a n d ic c h a r a ct e r . H
a vi n g wi s h e d m e a g o o d n i ght s r e s t,
’
th ey r e ti r e d , a n d l e ft th e i r el d es t d au ghte r t o a s s i s t m e in p u ll
i ng o ff m y p a n t a l o o n s a n d s t o cki n g s , a pi e c e o f ki n d ne s s , h o w
e v e r , whic h I w o u ld a t h o u s a n d ti m es r a th er h a v e di s p e n s e d
w ith , a s it w a s s o r ep u g n an t t o th o s e fe eli n g s o f d e lic a cy to
which I h a d b e e n a c c us t o m e d I n v a i n I r e m o n s tr a te d a g a i n s t
.
it as u nn e c e s s a r y T h e y o un g w o m a n m a i n ta i n e d it w a s th e
.
c u s t o m o f th e c o u n t r y , a n d th ei r d uty t o h elp th e w ea r y t r a v e l
le r Wh e n I h a d go t i n to b e d , s h e b r o u ht a l o n g b o a r d , whic h
g
.
s h e pl a c e d b e fo r e m e to p r e v en t m y fa l in g o u t ; a n d d e p os ited
86 U NIVER S A L T R A VE LLE R .
I LA N
CE D.
ch ai n s ab o u t th ei r n e ck s o n w hic h th e y s u s p e n d m ed al s or , ,
l a r ge pi e c e s o f s ilv e r b e ar i n g fi gu r es o r i n s c rip ti o n s o f t) re
,
i
.
l igio u s n a t u r e O n t h e i r fi n ge r s t h e w o m e n ge n e r a lly h a v e
.
'
m a n y r i n gs o f go l d s ilv e r o r b r a s s a cc o r d i n g t o t h ei r a bility
, ,
t o p u r ch as e t h e m B u t th e m o s t s i n gu l a r p a r t o f t h e fe m a l e
.
c so t u m e is t
,
h e h e a d —d res s c all e d a fa ld ar w hich is m a d e o f , ,
w hi t e li ne n s ti ffen ed w i th a n i m m e n s e n u m b e r o f pi n s a n d fro m ,
fi fte en to t w e n ty i n c h es in h eigh t I n s u m m er w h ic h in t h i s .
,
i s l a n d is v e r y s h o r t th e c o m m o n w o r ki n g d re s s o f t h e fe ma l es
,
-
c o n s i s t s o n ly o f th e u n de r ga rm e n t wi t h p e t tic o a ts o f w hit e ,
w a dm el a n d a bl u e c a p th e t o p o f w hich h a n gs d o w n o n o n e
, ,
s id e a n d i s t e r m i n a t e d wi t h a t a s s el
, T h i s c a p w ith bl u e p e t .
,
t ic o ats a n d a b l u e j a ck e t c o n s ti tu te t h e d o m es tic d r es s o f t h e
,
fi r s t fem a l es o n t h e i s l a n d .
T h e I cela n d ic is j u s tly r e ga rd e d a s t h e s ta nd a r d o f th e gr a n d
n o r th e r n di al e ct o f t h e G o t h ic l a n gu a ge T h e r e m o t en e s s o f .
t h e i s l a nd a n d t h e li tt l e i n te r c o u rs e whic h it s i n h a bi ta n t s h a v e
,
m a i n t a i n ed w i th t h e r e s t o f th e w o r l d h a v e effect u a lly s e cu r e d ,
t h e p u rity a n d O ri gi n a li ty o f t hi s a n ci e n t l a ngu a g e ; a n d it is a
c ur i o u s fa ct th a t w hil e o u r a bl e s t a n tiqu a ri es a r e o ften p u z z l e d
, ,
i n en de a v o r i n g t o d e ciph e r c e rt ai n w o rd s a n d p h r a s e s in w ri
tin gs w hich d a t e t h ei r o r i gi n o n ly a fe w c en tu ri e s b a ck th ere
, ,
i s n o t a p ea s a n t n o r i nd e e d s c a r c ely a s er v a n t gi rl i n Ic el a n d
, ,
w h o is n o t c a p a b l e o f r e a d i n g w ith e a s e t h e m o s t a n ci en t d o c u
m en t s ext a n t o n t h e i s l a n d .
T h e m o s t i m p o r t a n t Ic el an d i c p oems a r e c o m p r i s ed in t h e
E dda w h ic h c o n s i s t s o f t w o p a rt s
,
t h e fo rm er k n o w n by t h e ,
’
n a m e o f S cem u nd s E dda c o n t a in s a c o ll e cti o n o f t h i r ty ei gh t
,
-
e t hic m y t h o l o gic al a n d hi s t o ric a l p o em s ; a n d t h e l a t t e r c o m

, , ,
’
m o uly c a ll e d S nor r o s E dd a t re a ts o f t h e a r t o f p o e t r y a n d , ,
exhi b it s b y w a y o f ill u s tr a t i o n
,
fr a gm e n ts o f a n ci en t p o etic a l ,
c o m p o s uio n s .
T h e h is t o r i c a lc o m p o s i ti o n s o f t h e Ic el a n d e r s k no w n by t h e ,
n a m e o f S a ga s a r e e xc e e d i n gly n u m e r o u s a n d n o t l e s s w o r t h y
, ,
o f r ega r d t h a n t h e i r p o e m s Lik e t h e l a tt e r t h ey o r igi n a ted .

,
i n t h e p e c u li a r ci rc u m s t a n c e s o f t h e p e o pl e a t a n e a r ly p e r i o d ,
o f t h e i r hi s t o r y A ge d m e n w h o h a d t r e a s u r e d u p i n m e m or y
.
a r ich fu nd o f t r a d i t i o n a r y r e l a t i o n s w e re r ega rd e d a s u n d e r a ,
ki n d o f o bli ga ti o n t o r ep e a t t h e m o n s p e ci a l o cc a s i o n s t h a t ,
th e y m igh t b e le a r n e d by t h e y o u n g a n d th u s t a n s m it t ed to fu ,
r o
t u r e gen e a tio n s T o t h e s e t r a d iti o n s t h e Ic el a n de r s ga v e t h e

r
.
n am e o f S a g a s T h e y s o m e tim e s b l e n d e d ficti on a n d t z u t h
.
b u t m a ny o f th e m a r e w o rt h y o f t h e fu l l e s t c r e dit .
I cela n d h a s bu t o n e s ch oo l a n d th a t is d e s ign e d fo r s u ch a s a re ,
a ft er w a r d t o fill o ffi c es in ch u r ch a n d s t a t e : y e t th e e d u c a ti o n
o f chil d r e n is no t n e gl e c t ed Y o u c a n s c a r c ely e n t e r a h u t .
,
w h e re m a y n o t b e fo u n d s o m e i ndivi d u a l c a p a bl e o f s u s t a i ni ng
a c o n v e r s a ti o n o n t o pic s w h ic h w o u ld b e r e ck on ed a l t o ge t h er
a b o v e t h e u n d e rs t a n d i ng o f p e o pl e o f t h e s a m e r a n k i n o th
er c o u n t r i es Th is gen er a l diff us i o n o f k n o w l edge is g r ea tl y

.
U N IV E R S A L TR AV E L L E . 87
LIT R A UR
E T E .
— H008 13S .
p r o m o e t d by th e m a nn e r i n which th e Ic el a n d e r s p as s th e i r
’
l o n g wi n te r e v e n i n gs B e tw e en th r ee a n d fou r o cl o ck th e
. ,
l a m p is h un g up i n t h e p r i n cip a l a p a r t m e n t wh i c h a n s w e r s fo r ,
b o th s itti n g r o o m an d b e d r o o m a n d th e m e m b e r s o f th e fa m i iy
- -
,
t a k e th e ir s t a ti o ns with th e i r w o r k in th e i r h a n d s o n th ei r r e
, ,
s p e c t i ve b e d s , w hic h fa c e e a c h o th e r T h e m a s t er a n d m i s
.
tr e s s with t h e c hild r e n o r o th e r r e l a ti o n s o c c u py th e b e d s a t
, , ,
t h e i n n e r e n d o f th e r o o m a n d th e r es t a r e fil l e d by t h e s er v a n t s
,
.
A s s o o n a s t h e w o r k i s b e gun o n e o f th e fa m ily t a k e s a s e a t
,
n e a r th e l a m p a n d c o m m e n c e s t h e e v e n i n g r e a di n g wh c h
, , i
n e r lly c n s i s t s o f s o m e o l d s a g a o r s u c h o th e r h i s t o r i e s
g e a o ,
a s c a n b e p r o c u r e d i n th e i s l a n d T h e l e ctu r e i s o fte n i n t e r
.
r u p te d , e ith e r b y t h e h e a d o r s o m e o th e r i n t ellig e n t m e m b er
,
o f t h e fa m ily , w h o m a k e s r e m a r k s o n v a r i o u s p a r t s o f t h e
s to r y,
a n d p r o p o s e s q u e s ti o n s with a vi e w t o e x e r ci s e t h e
,
i n ge n uity o f th e c hild r e n a n d s e r v a n t s B y s u c h m e a n s , th e .
Ic e l a n d e r s a c qu i r e a n e a r ly h a bit o f t hi n ki n g A n d a s t h e y .
a r e b a dly s uppli e d w ith p r i n t e d b o o k s th e y a r e u n d e r t h e ,
n e c e s s ity o f c o pyi n g s u ch a s th e y c a n o bt a i n t h e l o a n o f ; a n d
th us m o s t o f th e m w r it e a h a n d e q u a l in b e a u ty to th a t o f,
t h e a b l es t w r iti n g m a s ter s i n E u r op e
-
I n s o m e h o u s e s , th e
.
s a g a s a r e r e p e a t e d by s u c h a s h a v e go t th e m by r o t e ; a n d it
i s n o t un c o m m o n fo r iti n e r a n t his t o r i a n s to ga i n a liv e lih o o d
d ur i n g t h e wi n te r , by s oj o ur n in a t di ff e r e n t fa r m s till th ey
h a ve e xh a u s te d th e i r s t o c k 0 lit e r a r y k n o wl e d ge P o e t r y .
h a s a lw ay s fl o u r i s h e d i n Ic e l a n d a n d th er e a r e s till s e v e r a l
,
s ca l ds ,
o r p o e t s w h o c u lti va te it wit h s u cc es s
,
T h e n a ti v e s
.
.
a r e v e r y a c u te o b s e r v e r s o f t h e gr a m m a tic a l c o n s t r u c t i o n o f
th e i r l a n guage a n d th e l e as t m i s t a k e m a d e by a fo r e ig n er , is
i m m e di a tely d e te cte d by th e l o w e s t p e a s a n t .
I n g en er a l, th e I cela n di c h o us es a r e a ll c o n s t ru cte d in t h e
s a m e m a n ner . T h e w a ll s , whic h m ay b e a b o u t fo u r fe e t in
h e ight by s ix i n thick n e s s , a r e c o m p o s e d o f a lte r n a te l a y e r s o f
e a r t h a n d s t o n e , a n d i n cli n e a lit tl e i n w ar d s , wh e n th e y a r e
m et by a s l o pi n g r o o f o r t u r f, s u pp o r te d by a fe w b e a m s , whic h
a r e c r o s s e d b y twi gs a n d b o u gh s o f bi r c h T h e r o o f al w a ys .
fur n i s h e s g o o d g r a s s , which i s c ut w ith t h e s cyth e a t t h e u s u a l

s e as o n I n fr o n t , th r ee d o o rs ge n e r a lly p r e s e n t th e m s e lv es ,
.
th e t 0 p s o f whic h fo r m t r i a n gl es , a n d a r e a l m o s t a l w a y s o r n a
m e n te d with v a n es T h e m i d d l e d o o r o p e n s i n to a d ar k p a s
.
s a ge , a b o u t thi r ty fe e t i n l e n gth , by fi v e i n b r e a d th , fr o m whic h

e ntr a n c es b r a n c h o ff o n e ith e r s id e a n d l e a d t o di ffer e n t a p a r t
,
m en t s , s u c h a s , t h e s t r a n ge r s r o o m , whic h is a lw a y s t h e b es t
’
i n th e h o us e , th e kitch e n , w e a v in g r o o m , & c , a n d a t th e i n n e r
-
.
e n d o f t h e p a s s a e li e s th e b a ds to a l pi p t m t
g f , o r s e e n g a a r e n
”
,
whic h a l s o fo r m s th e s i t ti n g a n d c o m m o n w o r ki n g r o o m o f th e -
fa m ily I n m a ny h o us e s , th i s r o o m i s i n t h e g a r r e t , to w hi c h
.
th e p as sa ge c o m m un ic a te s b y a d a r k a n d d a n ge r o u s s t a i r c as e .
T h e light i s a d m itte d th r o u gh s m a ll wi n d o w s i n t h e r o o f,whic h

gen er a lly c o ns i s t o f th e am ni o n o f s h e e p , th o u gh o f l at e y e a r s ,
88 UN IVE R S A L T R A VELLER .
IC L ANDE .
l a s s h a s go t m o r e i n to u s e S u ch o f th e h o us es
h a v e W in
g
. as
o w s in t h e w a ll s , m o s t s t r iki n g r e s e m bl a n c e to t h e
b e a r th e
e xt er i o r o f a b a s ti o n T h e s m o k e m a k es it s e s c a p e th r o u gh a
.
h o l e in th e r o o f ; b ut thi s , it is to b e o b s e r v e d is o n ly fr o m th e ,
kitc h en , a s th e Ic e l a n d er s n e v er h a v e a n y fi r e in th e i r s itti n
r o o m , e v e n d u r i n g t h e s e v e r es t c o ld i n wi n t er T h ei r b e s .
a r e ar r a n ge d o n e a c h s id e o f th e r o o m , a n d c o n s i s t o f O p e n
b e ds te a d s r a i s e d ab o ut th r e e fee t a b o v e th e g r o u n d T h ey .
a r e fill e d with s e a w e e d , fe a th er s , o r d o w n a cc o r di n g to th e
-
,
ci r c um s t a n c e s o f th e p e a s a n t ; o v er which i s th r o w n a fo ld o r
t w o o f w a d m e l , a n d a c o v e r l e t o f div e r s c o l o r s T h o ugh th e .
b e d s a r e e xtr e m e ly n a r r o w, th e I c el an d e r s c o n tr iv e to s l ee p
in th e m by c o u pl e s by lyi n g h e a d t o fo o t
,
S o m eti m es th e in .
s i d e o f t h e r o o m s a r e p a n e ll e d with b o a r d s b ut ge n e r a lly th e ,
w a ll s ar e b a r e a n d c o ll e ct m u c h d u s t s o th a t it i s s c a r c e ly
, ,
p o s s ib l e to k e e p a ny thi n g cl e a n It is s e l d o m th e fl o o r i s l a i d
.
w ith b o a r d s b u t c o n s i s t s O f d a m p ea rt h , w hich n e c e s s a r ily

,
p r o v es v er y u n h e a lthy .
Th e o r din a r y f
d i et o th e I cela n d er s i s e xtr e m ely s i m pl e
I n .
th e m o r n i n g , th e y b r e a k fa s t o n s kyr , a d i s h o f c o a gu l a t e d
m ilk , r es e m bli n g c u r d , o n ly it i s s o u r ; t o whic h th e y a d d
pl e n ty o f s w e e t m ilk o r c r e a m , a n d s o m e ti m es giv e it a p e c u
li ar fl a v o r , by m ixi n g with it bl ue a n d j un ip er b er r y j uic e -
.
T h e i r di nn e r c o n s i s ts o f d r i e d fi s h a n d b utter ; th e l a tte r o f
w hic h i s ge n er a lly s o u r , it b e i n g a c o m m o n p r a ctic e t o a ll o w
it t o a c qui r e a s t r o n g d e gr ee o f r a n cidity , a fte r whic h it will
k e e p fo r a l m o s t a n y l en gth o f ti m e F o r s u pp e r , th e y h a v e
.
e ith e r s kyr , a littl e b r e a d a n d ch e es e , o r p o r r i d g e m a d e o f th e

I c e l a n dic m o s s T o a fo r e i gn er , thi s is n o t o nly th e m o s t
.
'
h e a lthy , b ut th e m o s t p a l a t abl e o f a ll th e a r ticl e s o f Ic e l a n d i c

di e t O n p ar ti c ul a r o c c a s i o n s , s uc h a s u n d ay s , a n d o th e r
. S
h o lyd ay s , th ey e a t b o il e d m u tt o n , r y e p o r r i d g e, a n d m ilk A t
-
.
C h r i s t m as , th e fi rs t d ay o f s um m e r , a n d h ar v e s t h o m e , e xtr a -
fe a s ts a r e giv e n t o th e s e r v a n ts , c o n s i s ti n g o f fr e s h m utt o n ,
m i lk p o r r idg e, a n d b r e a d —
-
a h a r ticl e whic h thi s cl as s o f t h e
i n h a bit a n ts s e ld o m t a s te th r o ugh o u t th e y e a r T h e i r c o m m o n .
b e v e r a g e is bl a n d a a ki n d o f wh ey m ix e d wi t h w a te r ; th e
-
wh ey its el f, whic h t h ey c all s yr a an d m ilk, w hic h th ey ge n e

r a lly d r i n k w a r m .
T r a velli n g i n I c ela n d is a tt en d e d with m uch m o r e tr o ubl e

a n d di ffic u lty th a n i n a ny p a r t o f E u r o p e e r e th er e is n e i
. H
th er c o a c h n o r c ur r icl e , c a r t n o r w a g o n , fo r th e c o n v e y a n c e
’
o f o n e s p e r s o n a n d l u g ga ge E v e r y thi n g i s c a r r i e d o n h o r s e
.
b a ck T h e fi r st thi n g, th e r e fo r e , th a t a t r a v e ll er h a s to thi nk
.
o f, is th e p r o c ur i n g o f h o r s e s , whic h h e m a y e ith e r hi r e o r p u r
c h a s e b ut th e l a tte r m o d e i s p r e fer a bl e , a s in th a t c a se h e h as
th e m m o r e a t h is c o mm a n d ; a nd it i s a l s o a tten d e d with les s
e xp e n s e, e s p e ci a lly i f th e j o u r n ey b e o f a ny le n th Th e c om .
m o n h o r s es a r e, i n ge n er a l, fr o m thi r tee n to o ur teen h a n d s

90 U NI VE R S A L T R AVELLER .
IC LA ND
E .
th e plitti n g a n d c a r r yi n g h o m e o f th e fi s h is c o m m o n ly l eft to
s
‘
th e w o m en a n d child r e n .
“
T h e p r i n cip a l fi s h th e y c a tc h i n thi s w a y , is th e c o d T h ey .
c ut O ff th e h e a d s , whic h t h e y a l s o d r y , a n d s e ll t o t h e p o o r e r
p ar t o f th e p o p ul a ti o n ; th e b o n e s a r e s o m e ti m es us e d fo r fe e d
in g th e i r c a ttl e ; a n d i n s o m e p a r ts o f th e i s l a n d t h e y u s e th e m , ’
fo r fu el T h e fi s h a r e l a id o ut o n th e cli ffs , o r a l a r ge s ur fac e

.
o f fla t s t o n e s o n th e b e a ch a n d th e r e d r i e d i n t h e s u n whil e
, ,
t h e u tm o s t c a r e i s t a k e n th a t th e y ar e n o t e xp o s e d t o r a i n o r
d a m p T h ey d r y in th e c o ur s e o f th r ee w ee k s a n d a ft er w a r d s
.
,
a r e s t a ck e d u p o n t h e b e a ch
,
a n d t a k e n o d a m a g e wh a te v e r
fr o m th e r a i n .
Wh e n th e s n o w l e a v e s th e gr o un d th e fe m a l es s p r e a d th e ,
m a n u r e whic h h a s l a i n o n t h e t a n i n h e a p s a ll wi n t e r a n d c o l ,
l e ct a ny s t o n es th a t m a y h a v e g a th er e d o n it T h e m e n a r e .
e m pl o y e d i n c u tti n g t ur f b o th fo r fue l a n d a c o v er i n g fo r th e i r
,
h o us e s a n d m a ki n g c h a r c o a l fo r th e u s e o f th e s m ithy W h e n
,
.
th e y o u n g c a ttl e h a v e b e e n t ur n e d o ut o n t h e m o u n t a i n s th e ,
c a r e o f th e c o w s a n d s h e e p i s l e ft to th e fe m a l e p a r t o f th e fa m
ily , w h o m ilk th e m twic e a d ay m a k e c u r d s b utter c h e e s e, , , ,
&c a n d th e y r e p a i r in c o m p a n i e s a b o ut th e m i d d l e o f s um
.
, ,
m e r t o c o ll e ct th e L i ch en s I s l a n d ton s o r Ic e l a n d m o s s i n th e
, , ,
u n i n h a bit e d p a r ts o f th e c o u n t r y T h e y h a v e , ge n e r a lly a
’
.
,
m a n o r tw o with th e m : a n d th e fe w w e e k s th ey s p en d in t h i s
e m pl o y m e n t i n th e d e s e r t; a r e r e g a r d e d a s t h e h a ppi e s t o f th e
w h o l e y e a r T h e y liv e in t e n ts which th e y r e m o v e fr o m pl a c e
.
,
t o pl a c e a cc o r d i n g to t h e gr e a t e r o r l e s s a b u n d a n c e o f th e
,
m oss A t thi s ti m e th e m en a r e e ith e r o ut a t th e fr es h w a t e r
.
-
fi s hi n g, o r p r o c e e d i n g i n c a v a lc a d e s to th e fa cto r i e s wh er e ,
th ey b a r te r th e i r h o m e p r o du cti o n s a ga i n s t a r ticl e s o f n e c es
s a r y us e fo r th e wi n t e r .
T h e m o s t i m p o r t a n t b r a n c h o f r u r a l l a b o r in Ic e l a n d i s th e ,
h a y m a ki n g
-
A b o u t th e m i d dl e o f J uly, th e p e as a n t b egi n s to
.
c ut d o w n t h e g r a s s o f th e t u n which i s i mm e di a t e ly a t h er e d
g ,
t o a c o n v e n i e n t pl a c e i n o r d e r to d r y ; a n d a ft e r h a v m g b ee n
,
tu r n e d o n c e o r twic e i s c o n v ey e d h o m e o n h o r s e b a ck t o th e
,
y a r d, wh er e it is m a d e u p i n t O s t a c k s A t th e p o o r er far m s , '
b o th m e n a n d w o m e n h a n dl e th e s cyth e ; b ut i n ge n e r a l th e , ,
w o m e n o nly a s s is t i n m a ki n g t h e h ay , a fter it i s c ut I n m a n y .
p a r t s o f th e i s l a n d , wh e r e th er e is m u c h h ay t h e p e a s a n ts ,
hi r e m e n fr o m th e fi s hi n g pl a c e s w h o a r e p ai d fo r th e i r l a ,
b o r a t th e r a t e o f thi r ty p o u n d s o f b u tt er p e r w e e k T h ey .
c u t by m e a s ur e m en t ; t h e d a ily t a s k b e i n g a b o u t thi r ty s q uar e

fa th o m s .
Ha y h a r v es t b e i n g o v e r th e s h ee p a n d c a ttl e th a t h a v e b een
,
o u t a ll s u m m er o n th e m o u n t a i n s a r e c o ll e ct e d th e h o us e s ar e
u t i n a s t a t e o f r e p a i r fo r t h e wi n t er ; t h e w o o d n e e d e d fo r d o
p
m e s ti c p u r p o s e s is b r o u ght h o m e to e a ch far m t h e tu r f is als o
t a k e n in a n d th e l a b o r s o f th e s e a s o n c o n cl u d e with th e r e
m o v a l o f m an u r e t o di ffe r e n t p a r t s o f th e tu n .
D ur i n g th e w in ter th e c ar e o f th e c a ttl e a n d s h ee p d ev o lv e s
,
U NIVE R S A L TR A VELLE R . 91
C HU RC H — CL R GY . E .
en ti r el y o n th e m e n a n d c o n s i s ts chi efly i n fe e di n g a n d w a
t er in g th e fo r m e r , w hic h a r e k e pt in th e h o us e , whil e th e l a tt er
a r e tur n e d o u t in th e d a y ti m e t o s eek th e i r fo rfl th r o u gh t h e
sno w . W h en th e s n o w h a pp en s to b e s o d ee p th a t th ey c an
n o t s c r a p e i t a w a y th e m s e lv e s t h e b o y s d o it fo r th e m ; a n d a s
,
th e s us te n a n c e th u s p r o c ur e d i s e xc e e di n gly s c a n ty , t h e y ge n
e r ally get a littl e o f th e m e a d o w h a y a t thi s ti m e T h e fa r m ,
.
h ay is iv e n t o th e c o w s o n ly A ll th e h o r s e s , e xc e pti n g p er
.
h a p s a a v o r i te r idi n g h o r s e a r e l e ft t o p r o vi d e fo r th em s e lv es
,
th e wh o l e wi n t e r , d u r i n whic h th e y n ev e r lie d o wn , b u t r es t
g ,
th e m s e lv e s by s t a n di n g i n s o m e pl a c e o f s h e lte r .
T h e fo r m a n d c er em o n i es of th e I cel a n d i c ch u r ch a r e s tr ictly
L u th er a n T h e t o t a l n um b e r o f p ar i s h e s in Ic e l a n d am o u n ts
.
t o 1 84 T h e cl er gy a r e a ll n a tiv es o f t h e i s l a n d a n d a r e
.
,
m a i n t a i n e d p a r tly by c u ltiv a ti n g s m a ll gl e b es a tt a c h e d t o th e
ch u r ch e s , a n d p a r tly fr o m c e r t a i n tith e s r a i s e d a m o n g th e
p e a s a n t s T h e p r o vi s i o n m a d e fo r th e i r s upp o r t is e xc ee d ~
.
i n gly s c a n ty T h e r ic h e s t li v i n g o n t h e i s l a n d d o e s n o t p r o
.
d u c e 2 00 r ix d o ll a r s ; t w e n ty a n d thi r ty r i x d o ll a r s a r e th e
- -
wh o l e o f th e s tip e n d a nn ex e d t o m a n y o f th e p a r i s h es ; a n d
th e r e a r e s o m e in whic h it i s e v en a s lo w as fi v e .
S m all as th e pitt a n c e is whic h is t h u s a ffo r d e d to th e I c e

l a u di e cl e r gy , a n d m u c h a s th e i r a tte n ti o n m u s t b e di r e cte d
t o th e m a n a ge m e n t o f th e i r fa r m s th ey a r e n e v e r th e l e s s , in , ,
g e n er a l v e r y as s id u o u s i n t h e di s ch ar ge o f th e i r p u blic fun c
,
t i o n s a n d p a r tic u l ar ly a tt e n tiv e t o th e e d u c a ti o n o f t h e y o u n g
,
.
E v er y cl e r y m a n i n Ic e l an d k ee p s wh a t i s c a ll e d a r e gi s t e r o f
s o ul s whi o
,
c o n t a i n s a n a cc u r a t e s ta t e m e n t o f th e a ge s it ua ,
ti o n , c o n d uct a biliti e s a n d p r o fici en cy o f e a c h i n divid ua l i n
, ,
h is p ar i s h T h e b o o k s i n t h e p o s s es s i o n o f th e fa m ily a r e a l s o
.
e n t er e d o n th e li s t ; a n d a s thi s r e c o r d i s m a d e a nn u a lly , to
,
b e p r e s e n t e d t o th e d e a n a t h is vi s it a ti o n a r e ggl a r vi e w is ,
th us o bt a i n e d o f th e m o r a l a n d r eli gi o us s ta te o f th e p a r i s h *
.
I n r e ga r d t o s e n ti m e n t a n d s tyl e o f p r e a c hi n g t h e Ic e l a n dic ,
c le r gy m ay b e d ivi d e d i n t o tw o cl a s s e s th o s e o f th e o ld a n d ,
s u c h a s ar e o f t h e n e w s ch o o l T h e fo r m e r p r o fes s to r e c e iv e
.
th e B ibl e a s a n a u th o r it a tiv e a n d o blig a t o r y r e v e l a ti o n o f th e

w ill o f G o d , a n d b o w with r e v e r e n c e to its d e ci s i o n s T h e y a r e .
m e n w h o ar e d e a d t o th e w o r ld , a n d d e v o te d i n h e a r t a n d li fe
fi
t Th e s ab b ath I ce l a n d c ch ur ch is o n e o f a m o s t s n gul ar an d
s cen e a t a n i i
in t er e s ti ng ki n d A l i t t l e edi fi ce co n s t r uc t ed o f w oo d an d tur f, is s t u a ted,
. i
p erh ap s am i d t h e r ugged r ui n s o a s tream o f l a v a, o r b en ea th m o un t a n s co v i
er ed W i th u n m e l ti n g s n o w Her e t h e I ce l an der s as s e m b l e to p erfo r m t h e da
.
ties o f t h ei r r e l i gi o n A gr o up o f m a l e an d fe m a l e p eas an t s m a b e s een ga th

.
er ed ab o u t t h e c h u r c h , w ai ti n g t h e ar r i v a l o f t h e r p a s t o r ; a ll i
s h ted in th e r i i
b es t atti r e after t h e m a n n er o f t h ei r co un t ry ; t h e r c h l dr en w i th t h em a n d i i
t h e h o r s e s w h i c h b r o u cr h t t h e m fr o m t h ei r r es p ect v e h o m e s gra z n g quie t l y i i
a ro u n d t h e l i t t l e as s em hl T h e a r r v a l o f a n ew c o m er is w e l co m ed by e v ery
i
y
-
.
o n e w i th a ki s s o f s a l u t a ti o
n T h e p as to r m a es h is ap ear a n ce a m o ng t h em
k
h
.
a s a fri en d ; h e s a l u t e s i n di v i dua ll is fl o ck, an d s to o p s

,
y e a ch m em b er o f
do w n t o gi v e h i s a l m o s t p aren t al ki s s t o t h e l tt l e o n es , w h o are t o gr o w up un
i
der h is c are Th es e k nd o ffi ces p erfo r m ed, t h ey all go toge th er n to th e h ouse
. i i
o f p r ayer .
IC L A N
E D .
t o th e s e r vic e o f th e i r R e d e e m er T h e ir p r i va te w a lk e xhi b
.
'
its th e ge n u i n e t e n d e n cy o f th e h o ly d o ct r i n e s th ey te a c h ; a n d
th e i r p u b lic a s c o u r s e s a r e e ar n es t, e n er ge tic , a n i m a te d , p o i n t
,
e d a n d fa ith ful
,
.
S u ch o f t h e cl e r gy a s a r e o f th e n ew s c h o o l th e n u m b e r o f ,
wh o m i s h a ppily n o t v e r y gr e a t tr e a t d ivi n e t h i n gs in qui te a

,
di ffe r e n t m a n n e r T h e y a r e e n ti r e ly m e n o f th e w or l d T h e
. .
a w ful r e a li ti e s o f a n a pp r o a chi n g et e r n ity h a v e m a d e n o s u it

a bl e i m p r e s s i o n u p o n t h e i r m i n d s a n d l e vity c a ll o u s n es s a n d
, , ,
i n d i ffe r e n c e m a r k t h e wh o l e o f t h e i r c o n d u ct N o r a r e th e
,
.
e ffe ct s r e s u l t i n g fr o m th e d i s s e m i n a ti o n o f th e i r t en e t s o n s u c h
a s i m bi b e th e m l e s s vi s ibl e a n d i nj ur i o u s T h e i r m i n d s b e
,
.
c o m e i m b u e d with s k eptici s m a n d i n fi d e lity e v e r y v es ti ge o f

r e ligi o n d i s a pp e a r s a n d i m m o r a li ty o f o n e d e s c r ipti o n o r ah
,
o th e r g e n er a l ly o c c upi e s its pl a c e .
I t is i n I c el a n d a s s oon a s a p er s o n h a s d ec ea s ed ,
a cu s to m
to r e m o v e th e c o r p s e t o t h e ch ur ch , wh e r e it is s u ff e r e d t o r e
m a i n till t h e d a y o f i n ter m e n t W h e n a p e r s o n h a pp e n s t o d ie
.
i n th e vici n ity o f t h e ch u r ch , h e i s w r a pp e d i n w a d m e l , a n d
'
pl a c e d o n a b e n ch b e s i d e th e a l tar , t ill a c o ffi n c a n b e go t

r ea dy F o r m er ly , th e c o ffi n w a s pl a c e d o n a s l e d ge wh i c h
.
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te r it th e fo ll o wi n g s p r i n g .
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u te d th a n it w a s b e fo r e th e c o n q u e s t, a n d t e n u m b er o f I n
di an s h a s i n c r e a s e d d u r i n g th e l as t c e n t ur y A cc o r di n g t o a n
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e s ti m a t e s a t n e a r ly a n d th a t o f d e a th s a t It
w o u ld th us a pp e a r th a t, if thi s r a te o f i n c r e a s e w e r e n o t ch e ck
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twe e n c o un tr i e s th a t h a v e l o n g b ee n d e n s ely p e o pl e d a n d th o s e
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.
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i p p i n e I s l a n d s ; a n d n a tiv e s o f th e C a n a r y I s l a n d s , w h o a r e
g e n e r a lly d es i g n a t e d by t h e n a m e o f I s l en os , (i s l a n d e r s ,
) a n d
r a n k a s whit e s . T h e y a r e fo r th e m o s t p ar t o v e r s e er s a n d
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s u pp os e d t o b e fo r m i n g a b o u t t w o fi fth s o f th e e n ti r e
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Hu m b o ldt a s b e a r i n g a ge n e r a l r e s e mb l a n c e to th o s e w h o in
h a bit C a n a d a , F l o r i d a , P er u a n d B r a z il T h ey h a v e th e s a m e
,
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s w a r thy a n d c o pp e r c o l o r , fl a t a n d s m o o th h a i r , s m all b e a r d ,
s q u a t b o dy , l o n g ey e, w ith th e c o r n er di r e ct e d up w a r d s t o w ar d s
U NIVE R S A L T R A V ELLE R . 95
C O T UM S E .
th e t e m pl e s , p r o m i n e n t c h e e k b o n e s thick lip s , a n d a n e xp r es
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s i o n o f g e n t l e n e s s i n t h e m o u th , s tr o n gly c o n t r a s t e d with a
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dive rs ity o f fe a tur e a n d p hy s i o l o gic al ch ar a cter a m o n g th e
.
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di ffer e n t n a ti o n s , which , t h o u gh n o t d e te ct e d by th e h a s ty o h
s e r v a ti o n o f t h e E ur o p e a n s t r a n ge r is n o t l es s es s e n ti a l th a n ,
th e di ffe r e n c e b e t w ee n t h e Ci r c as s i a n , th e M o o r , a n d th e P e r
s ian .
v a r y c o n s id e r a bly
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I he
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Th e f
cos t um es o th e v a r i o us c l a s s es .
d r e s s e s o f th e S p a n i ar d s , a n d high e r cl a s s o f white n a tiv e s , s a ys

Mr . B u ll o ck d i ffe r b u,
t li t tl e fr o m t h o s e w o r n i n ~E ur o p e T he .
m en a n d b o y s o fte n a pp e a r i n th e s tr ee t s in th e l o n g cl o a k ;
a n d in t h e h o us e , ligh t j a c k e t s o f p r i n t e d c a lic o a r e g e n er a lly
w o r n T h e y s h a v e l e s s o fte n th a n w e d o ; a n d wh e n o n a
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,
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c o v e r e d o r o n ly a s li ght v e il t h r o w n o v er it T h e y t a k e g r e a t
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fee t, t h e s t o cki n g b e i n g u s ua lly o f fi n e s ilk T hi s is th e i r .
m o r n i n g a pp e a r a n c e , in whic h t h e y a r e s ee n g o i n g to o r r e
t ur n i n g fr o m ch u r c h t o t h e d u ti e s o f whic h th e y a r e v er y a t
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ar e u s e d i n a b u n d a n c e b ut o s t r ic h fe a t h e r s s p a r i n gly
,
It i s .
g er a lly i n th e i r c a r r i a g e s th a t th e l a di e s a pp e a r i n p ublic ,
e n ,
a n d v e r y s e l d o m o n h o r s e b a ck .
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a n d e xp e n s iv e ; a n d wh e n m o u n t e d o n th e i r h a n d s o m e a n d
s pi r it e d littl e h o r s e s th e y m a k e a n e l e g a n t a pp e a r a n c e
,
The .
l o w e r d r e s s c o n s i s t s o f e m b r o i d e r e d b r e e c h e s c hi e fly o f c o l o r e d ,
l e a th e r , o p en a t t h e k n ees , a n d o r n a m e n t e d wi th n u m b e r s o f
w ith high c o ll a r ; a n d a s h o r t j a ck e t o f p r i n te d c a lic o , o v e r

wh ic h is ge n e r a lly th r o w n a n e l e ga n t m a ng a , o r cl o a k o f v e l
ve t, fi n e cl o th o r fi n e fi u r e d c o t t o n t h e m a n u fa ct u r e o f t h e
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fu s i o n o f g o l d l a c e O n t h e fe e t a r e s o ft l e a th er s h o e s o r b o o ts ,
.
o ve r whic h i s ti e d a ki n d o f a it e r p e c u li ar t o t h e c u t y th e y
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r o e. T h e y a r e s o ld fr o m e i h t to fo r ty o r fi fty d o ll ar s th e
p g
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p a i r , an d at th a t p r ic e yi e ld a p o o r r e m un er a ti o n to th e m a ker s .
96 U NIV E R S A L T R A VE LLER .
M E X IC O .
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gr e a t c o n s e q ue n c e in th e fi ttin o ut ‘
ar e a n a r
o f t h e M e xic a n b e a u, w h o O fte n a pp e a r s i n thi s ki n d o f o o t,
r ichly e m br o id er e d in g o ld a n d s ilv er , whic h c o s ts u pw a r d s o f
o n e h u n d r e d d o ll a r s T h e s ti r r up s a n d s p ur s c o r r esp o n d i n
.
.
m a g n ific en c e a n d w o r k m a n s hip t o th e b o o ts T h e h a t is o f .
v a r i o u s c o l o r s l a r g e, a n d th e c r o wn v e r y fl a t a n d lo w , b o un d
,
with b r o a d go l d o r s ilv er l a c e a n d w ith a l a r ge r o un d b a n d a n d
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.
u d t h e h e d a n d s h o u l d e r s fr o m t h e s u n T h e d e c o r a ti o n s
g a o a .
o f t h e h o r s e a r e a l s o e xp e n s iv e th e g r e a t S p a n i s h s a d d l e with
its b r o a d fl a p s is r ichly e m b r o i d er e d wi t h s il k g o l d , a n d s ilv er
, , ,
whil e th o s e o f th e l o we r cl a s s es a r e o f w o o d T h e b r i d l e is s m all .
wit h a v e r y l a r ge a n d p o we r ful bit by m e a n s o f whic h th e r id e r s

,
s u dd e n ly s t o p th e i r fi n e littl e h o r s e s wh e n a t full s p e e d ,
.
T he d r es s es o f th e cou n tr y la di es a r e s h o wy b u t no t e l e g a n t ; ,
w o r k e d s hi fts with a light o p e n j a ck e t a n d a r ic hly e m b r o id e r

, ,
e d o r s p a n gl e d p e t tic o a t o f b r igh t c o l o r e d s o ft cl o th , (O ft en s c a r
,
l e t o r pi n k , ) s e e m t o b e t h e u n v a r yi n g c o s t u m e .
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for e n t p r o vi n c e s I n t h e c a p i ta l th e d r es s o f th e I n d i a n m e n i s
.
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d e s c r ib e d by M r B ull o ck a s c o n s i s ti n g o f a s t r a w h a t ; cl o s e
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l e a th e r ; s h o r t b r ee ch e s o p e n a t th e k n e e s a l s o o f l e a th er , o r
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s o m e ti m es o f g o a t s s ki n wit h t h e h a i r o u tw a r d s ; a n d u n d e r
’
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thi s fu ll c a lic o t r o us e r s r e a c hi n g to th e m iddl e o f th e le g
,
.
S o m e ti m es s a n d a l s o f l e a th e r ar e w o r n T h e w o m en a pp e a r .
in littl e m o r e th a n a p e t tic o a t a n d s h o r t j a ck e t, with th e i r l o n g

r a v e n t r e s s e s pl a tt e d with r e d t a p e .
T h e a p p ea r a n ce of t h e co u n t r y p eop le a t A cap u lco s a y s C a pt ,

.
H a ll , di ffer s fr o m th a t o f th e S o uth A m er ic a n s T h e i r fe a .
t ur es a n d c o l o r p a r t a k e s o m e wh a t o f t h e M a l a y ch a r a cter ;
th e i r fo r e h e a d s a r e b r o a d a n d s qu a r e ; th e i r ey e s s m all , a n d
n o t d ee p s e a t e d ; th ei r c h e e k b o n e s p r o m i n e n t ; a n d th e i r
-
h e a d s c o ver e d with b l a ck s t r a ight h a i r th e i r s t atur e ab o u t

th e m e d i u m s t a n d ar d ; th e i r fr a m e c o m p a ct a n d w e ll m a d e .
T h e s e a r e t h e c o u n tr y p e o pl e w h o c o m e to m a r k e t with p o u l
,
t r y , fr u it, a n d v e g e t a b l e s a n d a r e g e n e r a lly s ee n s e a te d i n t h e
,
s h a d e u n d e r th e v er a n d a h s of th e h o u s e s o r i n th e i r o w n r a n ,
c h a s , w hic h a r e s h e d s m a d e o f m a ts l o o s e ly pi n n e d t o geth e r .
W e t o o k n o tic e o f a n o th e r cl as s l es s s a v a g e i n a pp e ar a n c e
,
th a n th a t t h us d e s c r ib e d , a n d r a th e r m o r e i n t er e s ti n g ; th e y ar e
th e la bor er s a n d c a r r i er s o f b u r d e n s e m pl o y e d a b o u t t h e t o w n
a t a ll b o ld l o o ki n g s t r o n g r a c e o f m e n ; th e y w e a r a h a t t h e
-
, ,
c r o w n O f whic h is r a i s e d n o t m o r e th a n th r e e i n ch e s a b o v e a
r im o f s u ch u n u s u a l wi d th th a t it s e r ve s a s a n u m b r e ll a to
.
s h a d e t h e w h o l e R o.u n d th e i r n e ck i s s u s p e n d e d a l a r g e fl a p
o f s ti ff y e ll o w l e a th e r , r ea chi n g b e l o w t h e m id d l e, a n d n e a r ly
m e e ti n g a p a i r o f g r e a v e s o f th e s a m e m a te r i a l wh i c h e n v e l o p e ,
h
t e thigh ; t h e c a lv e s o f t h e le g a r e i n l i k e m a nn e r W i‘ p p e d
r o u n d w ith pi ec e s o f l ea th er , ti e d c ar el ess ly o n W i th a th o n g ;
98 U NIVE R S A L T R A VE LLER .
M E X IC O .
r en d er th e fru it o f th e m u s a b o th b e fo r e a n d a fte r its m a tur ity,

,
a wh o l es o m e a n d a gr e e a bl e di e t I h a v e fr e qu e n tly s e en i n
.
a s c en di n g r iv e r s th a t th e n a tiv e s a ft er th e gr e a t e s t fa ti gue ,
, ,
m a k e a c o m pl e te d i n n e r o n a v e r y s m a ll p o r ti o n o f m a n i o c
a n d th r e e b a n a n a s o f t h e l a r g e ki n d T h e r ip e fr uit o f th e .
m u s a , wh e n e xp o s e d t o t h e s u n , i s p r e s e r v e d lik e o ur fi gs .
T h e s ki n b e c o m e s bl a ck a n d t a k e s a p ar tic u l a r o d o r , whic h
,
r es e m bl e s th a t o f s m o k e d h a m T h e fr u it i n thi s s t a t e is c a ll e d
.
l a ta no p a s s a do a n d i s a n a r ticl e o f c o m m e r c e i n th e i n t e n
p ,
d e n e y o f M e ch o a c a n M e a l is e xtr a cte d fr o m th e m u s a by
.
,
c u tti n g th e gr e e n fr ui t in s lic e s d r yi n g it in th e s u n o n a s lo p e
, ,
a n d p o u n di n g it wh en it b e c o m e s fr i a bl e
,
T h e fl o ur l es s .
,
u s e d i n M e xic o th a n i n t h e i s l a n d s m ay s er v e fo r th e s a m e ,
u se a s fl o u r fr o m r ic e o r m a iz e T h e fa cility with whic h t h e

.
b a n a n a i s r e p r o d uc e d fr o m its r o o ts , gives it a n extr a o r di n a ry

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a dv a n t a g e o v e r fr u i t tr e e s a n d e v e n o v e r t h e b r e a d fr u it t r e e ,
-
,
-
w hich , fo r e i ght m o n th s i n th e y e ar , i s l o a d e d with fa r in a c e

o u s fr u it . T h e gr e e n fr u i t o f th e m us a i s e a t en d r es s e d lik e ,
th e b r e a d fr uit o r t h e p o t a t o ; b ut t h e fl o u r o f t h e m a n i o c i s
-
c o n v er t e d i n to b r e a d T h e p r o p e r n a m e o f th e pl a n t, th e r o o t
.
o f which yi e ld s t h e n u t r itiv e fl o u r o f t h e m a n i o c , i s j u c a .
T h e r e a r e t w o s p e ci e s ; t h e j u ca d u lce, th e r o o t o f whic h m a y
b e e a t e n with o u t d a n g e r ; a n d t h e j u ca a m a r g a whic h c o n ,
t a i n s a n a ctiv e p o i s o n It is th e r o o t o f t h e l a tt e r h o w e v er
.
, ,
w hic h is ge n e r a lly m a d e i n t o b r e a d , th e p o i s o n o u s j u ic e b e i n g
c ar e fully p r e s s e d o u t .
T h e i n h a bit a n t s o f th e i n ter n a l p r o vi n c e s w h o a r e c h iefi y ,
white s o r r e p u te d whit e s liv e a l m o s t excl us iv e ly o n W h ea te n

,
b r e a d T h e M e xic a n wh e a t c ultiv a te d i n th e te m p er a te r e
.
,
i o n s , i s o f th e v e r y b es t qu a lity , a n d m a y b e c o m p ar e d , H u m
go ld t s ays wi th th e fi ne s t A n d a lus i a n gr a i n A m e r ic a i s ex
e
.
,
t r em ely r ic h in v e g e t a bl e s with n u tr i tiv e r o o t s , a m o n g whic h

a r e th e o c a , t h e b ot a t e, a n d th e i g n a m e A s m a ll bl a ck b e a n i s .
a l s o v e r y e xt e n s i v e ly c ul t iv a te d a n d t h e q u a n titi es o f r e d p e p
,
e r r a i s e d i n a ll p ar ts o f t h e c o u n tr y is a l m o s t i n c r e di b l e T he
p ,
.
M e xic a n s ay s M r R o b i n s o n w o u l d r a th e r go with ou t b r e a d
,
.
, ,
th a n l a ck c hil e with h i s m e a t B o th i n its gr e en a n d d r i e d .
s t a t e t h e q u a n tity c o n s u m e d is i n c r e d i b l e
,
Wh e n m a s h e d, .
a n d m ix e d with a littl e w a t e r it i s t h e u n iv e r s a l s a u c e o n th e
,
t abl es o f th e gr e a t ; whil e with th e p o o r i t fo r m s a c o m p o n en t ,

’
p ar t o f th e i r d i e t M o r e th a n o n e thi r d o f t h e M e xic a n p O p u
.
l a ti o n liv e th r o u b o ut th e y e a r c hi e fly o n tor ti lla s , o r c a k es

, ,
with chil e S p r e a o n th em , a s b utte r is with u s O n d a ys o f .
fe s tivity th ey h a v e o c c a s i o n a lly a c h a n ge o f d ie t by th e a ddi

, ,
ti o n o f a fe w e ggs o r a li t tl e b r o th b ut th ey n e v e r r e li n qu i s h
th e i r fa v o r ite chil e A s tr a n g er h as r e a t d i ffi c ulty a t fi r s t to
b e a r with th e foo d p r e p a r e d with cg
.
, ,
ile ; b ut a fte r h i s p a l a t e
h a s b e c o m e a c c u s to m e d to it s s ti m u l us it c e a s e s to e xc o r i a te , ,
a n d h e g r o w s a s fo n d o f i t a s th e I n d i a n s a n d C r e o l e s .
O n e o f t h e m o s t i n te r es ti n g s ight s t o a n i n q ui s itiv e s tr a n ge r
in M ex i c o, s ay s M r B ull o ck , is a r a m bl e ear l y in th e mo rn i ng
.
U NI VE R S A L T R A VE LLER . 99
M AR K E TS .
to t h e c a n a l which l e a d s to th e L a k e o f Ch a lc o T h e r e h u n .
,
d r e d s o f I n di a n c a n o e s , o f di ffer en t fo r m s a n d s iz es fr e i ghte d ,
with th e g r e a te s t v a r i e ty o f t h e a n i m a l a n d v e ge t ab l e p r o d u c
ti o ns o f th e n e ighb o r h o o d , a r e c o n s t a n tly a r r i v m g: th e y a r e
fr e qu en tly n a vi ga t e d by n a tiv e w o m e n a c c o m p a n i e d by th e i r ,
fa m ili e s . T h e fi n e s t c ultiv a te d v e ge t ab l es , w hic h a r e p r o d u c e d

i n E ur o p ean g ar d e n s with t h e n u m b er l e s s fr u its o f th e t o r r i d
,
z o n e , o f m a n y o f whic h e v e n th e n a m e s a r e n o t k n o wn to u s ,
a r e pil e d u p i n py r a m id s a n d d e c o r a t e d with th e m o s t g a u dy
,
fl o w e r s I n th e fr o n t o f th e c a n o e s , th e I n di a n w o m en v er y
s li ghtly cl o th e d , with th e i r l o n g gl o s s y t r e s s e s o f j et bl a c kh a i r
.
fl o wi n g l u xu r i o u s ly to th e w a i s t, a n d o fte n with a n i n fa n t fa s
t e n e d t o th ei r b a ck s p u s h t h e c a n o es fo r w a r d with l o n g s l e n d e r
,
p o l es I n th e c e n tr e u n d er c o ve r th e r e m a i n d e r o f th e fa m ily
.
, ,
a r e s e a t e d m o s tly e m pl o y e d i n s pi n n i n g c o tt o n o r w e a v i n g i t,
, ,
i n th e i r s i m pl e p o r t a bl e l o o m s , i n to n ar r o w w e b s o f bl u e a n d
w hite cl o th , whic h fo r m s th e i r p r i n cip a l cl o thi n g O th e r b o a ts .
a r e l o a d e d with m e a t fo wl s t u r k e y s , a n d a p r o fu s i o n o f w il d
, ,
d u ck s , whic h th ey pl u ck a n d p r e p a r e o n th e i r r o a d t o m a r k e t ;
g e n er a lly th r o wi n g th e fe a th e r s whic h th ey c o n s id e r o f n o ,
v a l u e i n to th e w a te r O th e r s a g a i n a r e fr e ighte d with I n di an
,
.
c o r n i n b ulk o r s tr a w th e ge ner a l fo o d fo r h o r s e s , r e a r e d lik e

,
fl o a ti n g py r a m id s M ilk , b utte r , fr u it a n d y o un g kid s , ar e a ll

.
,
i n th e gr e a t e s t pl e n ty ; a n d w h a t a d d s t o t h e pic tu r e s q ue a p
,
p e a r a n c e o f th e wh o l e , i s th a t n e a r ly e v er y c a n o e h a s a q u a n
,
t ity o f r e d a n d whit e p o ppi e s s p r e a d o n t h e t o p o f th e o th e r
c o m m o diti e s ; a n d, i f th e r e b e a m a n o n b o a r d h e i s u s u a lly ,
e m pl o y e d i n s t r u m m i n g o n a s i m pl e gu it a r fo r t h e a m u s e m e n t
o f th e r e s t T h e wh o l e o f thi s b u s y s c e n e i s c o n d u cte d with
.
th e g r e a t e s t h a r m o n y a n d c o r di a lity T h e s e s i m pl e p e o pl e .
s e l d o m p as s e a c h o th e r with o u t s a l u ti n g B u en os d i a s S en or , .
o r S en or a i s i n e v e r y m o u th a n d th ey e m b r a c e e a c h o th er
, ,
wi th a ll th e a pp e a r a n c e o f s i n c er ity .
T h e y l a n d t h e i r c a r go es a littl e to th e s o uth o f th e p al a c e ,
n e ar t h e gr e a t m ar k e t a n d r e m o v e th e i r v a r i o us c o m m o di ti e s
o n th e i r b a ck s t o th e pl a c a wh e r e th e y d e p o s it e th e m fo r s a l e
, .
T hi s m a r k e t i s w e ll w o r th vi s iti n g a t a n e a r ly h o ur — th e n ,
th o u s a n d s o f I n di a n s a s s e m bl e d wit h th e i r v a r i o u s c o m m o d i
,
ti e s fo r s a l e , m a ny o f th e m fr o m a c o n s i d er a bl e di s ta n c e , fo r m
o n e o f t h e m o s t a n i m a t e d s i gh ts th a t c a n b e w it n e s s e d .
T h e m e a t m a r k e t i s to l er a b ly w e ll s u ppl ie d w ith b e e f m u t ,
t o n a n d p o r k n o t o f th e v er y b e s t qu ality b ut by n o m e a n s
, , ,
b a d ; a n d th er e i s g a m e i n a b u n d a n c e , wil d d u ck s , bi r d s o f
’
v a r i o u s s o r ts v e n i s o n h a r e s r a bbit s t u r k e y s — n o t to s p e a k
a n d a x o lo m
, , , , ,
o f t o r t o i s e s fr o g s
,
a s o r t o f s hr i m p s (a s p e ci e s
, , ,
o f s a l a m an d er r e s e m bli n g a w a t er n e w
t ) a ll g o o d e a ti n g T h e -
.
p r o fu s i o n a n d v a r i e ty o f fr u it s a n d v e g e t a bl e s ar e gr e a ter .
th a n i n a ny o th er m ar k e t i n E ur o p e o r A m er ic a T h e g r e a t .
m a r k e t s a y s M r B ull o ck i s l ar ger th a n C o v e n t G a r d e n , b u t
, .
,
y e t u n e qu a l t o c o n t a i n t h e qu a n tity d a ily e xp o s e d t o s a l e Th e .
r o un d is e n ti r e ly c o v er e d wi th e v e r y E ur o p ea n ki n d a n d
g ,
1 00 U NIVE R S A L T R A VE LLE R .
M E X IC O .
with m a ny, th e v er y n a m es o f whic h w e h a v e s c ar c e ly h ea r d .
B e s id es th e a r ticl es fu r n i s h e d fo r th e t abl e, n um ber s o f I n d i a n s

di s p o s e o f w o o l , c o tto n , c o ar s e c a lic o , m a n ufa ctu r e d s ki n s ,
e a r th e n w ar e , b a s k e t s , & c a n d it i s a n a m u s i n s c e n e t o wit
.
g
n e s s th e m c o ll e ct e d i n l ar g e p a r ti es , with th e i r child r e n , s e a t e d
o n th e g r o u n d , e nj o yi n g th e i r fr u g a l m e a l s o f to r ti l l a s a n d ch il e .
B ut, u n fo r tun a t ely , i n th e l a n e s n e a r th e m a r k e t a r e fo u n d

nu m b e r s o f p u l q u e s h o p s , (p u lq u e r i a s , ) wh er e th e m e n a r e
-
s e e n e nj o yi n g th e i r fa vo r ite b e v e r a ge , a n d i n d ulgi n g i n th e i r
p r o p e n s ity to g a m i n g a n d i n m o r e th an o n e i n s t a n c e , I h a v e
n o tic e d th e s e g en e r a lly o o d n a t u r e d c r e a t u re s wh en h e a t e d
g
-
,
by th e p u lqu e o r a g ua r di en t e, a n d s o u r e d by th e ill fo r tun e o f
t h e d ay , v e n ti n g th e i r di s a pp o i n t m e n t o n t h e p e r s o n s o f th e i r
u n o ffe n d in wiv es
“O f d r i n s th er e a r e i n M e xic o u n fo r t un a t ely to o m a ny
.
, ,
th a t i n to xic a t e, a n d th ei r i nj ur i o u s e ffe cts a r e to o a pp a r e n t
u p o n th e I n di a n s a n d p o o r e r p o p ul a ti o n T h e m o st usu al
'
d r i n k , n o t exc e pti n g p e r h a p s e v e n w a te r , is th e p ul q ue , a liqu o r

p r o d uc e d fr o m a v a r i e ty o f th e a g a ve a m er i ca n a T h e t a s t e
’
is a g r e ea bly a cid , a n d it i s , p er h a p s , o f a ll in to x ic a t in g liq u id s ,

th e m o s t h ur t fu l . It i s th e j uic e o f th e pl a n t, o bt a i n e d by c u t
tin o ff th e s h o o t j u s t b e fo r e it i s b ur s ti n g o ut t o fl o w e r it i s
so o ll o w e d th a t t h e j u ic e fill s th e c a vity l e ft, a n d s o a b u n d a n t
i s th e s a p , th a t it i s dipp e d o u t s e v er a l ti m e s i n th e d ay A .
l a n t e v e n in a b a r r en s o il p r o d u c e s o n e h un d r e d a n d fi fty
pottles o f p ulque, th o u gh it is ab o ut 1 6 y e ar s b efo r e it will d o
t o m a k e th e i n ci s i o n H um b o ld t c all s th e m a gue th e vi n e o f
t h e A zte c s , a n d th e n a tiv e s p r e fe r th e p u lq u e t o a llw i n e s , a n d
.
th e i r p r e fe r e n c e i s j us tifi e d by m a n y E u r o p e a n s A v e r y i n .
t o x ic a tin g b r a n dy , c a ll e d m ex i ca l s d i s till e d fr o m th e p ulqu e

'
T h e p ulqu e h a s u n fo r tun a t ely th e e s t fl a v o r , wh e n it h a s th e

l e a s t fr a g r a n c e , a s it h as o fte n w h e n i n i ts b e s t s t a t e , a fe tid
o d o r , th o u gh a s thi s i s n o t u n i ver s a l, it m a y p e r h a p s , wh e n
,
t h e c u ltiv a t o r s h a v e m o r e s kill , b e r e m e di e d T h e c o n s um p
.
ti o n o f p ul q u e in th e city i s es ti m a te d a t o f b o ttl es
a n n u a lly
”
.
T h er e i s li tt le tr a v elli n g i n M ex i co a n d o f c o u r s e th e a e c o m
,
m o d a tio n s fo r tr a v e ll er s a r e far fr o m b e i n g go o d Th e na .
t ive s s el d o m w a n d e r b e y o n d th e p r e ci n ct s o f t h e i r o w n n e igh
b o r h o o d ; th o u gh th er e a r e m a n y i n d u c e m e n ts t o tr a v e l M ex .
i c o i s a c o u n tr y mad e up o f th e b e a uti fu l a n d th e gr a n d y et
it i s a s e r vic e o f t o il a n d d a n e r to e xpl o r e e ve n th e m o s t fr e
u en t e d p ar t s It i s s u r r o u n e d by a s ickly c o a s t, w h er e t h e
q .
g a tes o f d e a th a r e alw ay s o p en T h e m a l a r i a th a t s p a r e s th e
.
n a tiv e is fat a l t o th e s t r a n g er ; u n d e r a b e a u ti ful s ky , s u r r o un d

e d by t h e m a gn ific e n t v e ge t a ti o n o f t h e t r o pic s , t h e fo r e i g n e r
i n h a l e s th e a i r s o f fr a gr a n c e , th a t a r e l o a d e d with d e a th Y e t .
t h e fo r e ign e r expl o r es M e xic o , w hil t e h e n a tiv e f e e l s n o c u~
l
r i o s1
T i l; r oa ds in M exic o , whic h un d er th e a u s pic e s o f th e
m o th er c o un tr y wer e be gi nn i n g to b e go o d, h a v e ,
s i n c e th e
1 02 U NIVER S A L T R A VELLER .
M E X IC O .
l ab o r o f th e d ay i s d o n e I n th e m o r n i n g it t a k e s n e a r ly t wo
.
h o ur s to fi n is h t h e p r ep ar a ti o n s fo r s t a r ti n g T h e m ul e s o fte n .
e s c a p e wh e n th ey c an b e t a k e n o n ly wi t h th e l a s s o o r a l o n g
, ,
r o p e wi h a n o o s e , th a t a ll M e xic a n h o r s e m e n u s e d e xt er o u s ly
t ,
a n d g e n e r a lly h a v e a tt a ch e d t o t h e p u fnm e l o f t h e s a d d l e .
T h e m o m e n t th e m u l e fe e l s th e l a s s o th r o w n u p o n h i m h e ,
s t a n d s p e r fe ctly s till b u t till th e n will n o t s u ffe r h i m s e l f t o b e
,
t a k e n I n s te e p pl a c e s wh er e t h e c ar r i a ge m i ght o th er wi s e
.
,
l o s e its b a l a n c e, t h e o utr id er s a tta ch th e l a s s o s to it a n d n o t ,
o n ly p r e s e r v e t h e b a l a n c e b u t a id i n d r a wi n g it
,
T h e m ul e s .
‘
a n d h o r s e s a r e n e v e r litt er e d ; th e y s l e e p o n pl a n k o r s t o n e
a c u r r y c o m b is u n k n o w n , b ut t h e a n i m a l s a r e fr e q ue n tly
-
wa s h ed .
“I t is t o b e r e m a r k e d th a t a lt h o ugh th e h o r s es a n d m u l es
a r e g e n e r a lly e xc e ll e n t
y et thi s d e s c r ipti o n d o e s n o t a lw a y s
,
a pply t o th o s e fur n i s h e d t o t r a v e ll er s M r P o i n s ett h a d o c. .
‘
c a s i o n th u s t o d e s c r ib e th e p r o g r es s o f du l n e s s W e s et o ff
a t a ga ll o p thi s l a s t e d till w e cl e ar e d t h e ga te s ; it w a s th en
s o b er e d i n t o a t r o t, s h o r tly a ft er i n t o a w a lk a n d a t th e e n d ,
’
o f fo u r m il es w e s t o o d s till T h e s a m e t r a v e ll e r h a d a fte r
.
w a r d s t o s en d b a ck fo r o n e o f h i s s e r v a n t s w h o wa s fo u n d ,
a s l e e p u p o n h is h o r s e t h e h o r s e h a vi n g fa v o r e d h i m with a
,
r e s t o f s o m e h o ur s . M a n a n d h o r s e w e r e fo u n d m o ti o n l e s s
a s th e s t a t ue o f Ch a r l e s IV th a t s t o o d i n t h e gr e a t s qu ar e o f
.
M e xic o .
“T h e c o un t r y l a di e s o fte n r i d e u p o n th e s a m e h o r s e w ith a
g e n tl e m a n ,
t h o u gh th e r e a r e n o pilli o n s ; t h e ge n tl e m a n r id es
b e hi n d , s u p p o r ti n h is c o m p a n i o n wi t h o n e ar m It i s a l s o a .
c o m m o n m ar k 0 p o lite n e s s t o p ut h is o w n wi d e h a t o n th e
’
l a dy s h e a d , a n d to tie up h i s o w n wit h a
T h e [ Mex ica n s y i n th ei r a m u s em en ts , fo ll o w, i n a g r e a t m e a s
u r e , t h e t a s t e o f t h e m o th e r c o un t r y . B
u ll fi gh ts a r e c o m m o n , -
b u t n o t a s s a n g ui n a r y a s i n p a i n S
T h e l o v e o f g a m i ng p e r
.
v a d e s a ll cl a s s e s ; l a d i es , p r i e s t s , s o l di e r s , l a b o r e r s , I n d i a n s ,
“
d e vo te s o m u c h ti m e to it, th a t it d es e r v e s to b e s tyl e d a n e m
pl o y m e n t , r a t h e r th a n a n a m us e m e n t I n th e p ublic s qu a r e s .
o f M e xic o , g a m i n g p a r ti e s a r e a l m o s t a lw a y s to b e s e e n , a n d
with s u ch z e a l is i t c o n d uct e d , th a t t h e l a s t c o i n i s s t a k e d , a nd
i f th a t b e l o s t, th e v e r y cl o a k whic h c o v e r s th e s h o u ld e r i s
l a i d up o n t h e s t a n d C o ck fi gh tin g i s t h e fa v o r ite n a ti o n a l
.
-
p a s ti m e P e o pl e o f a ll r a n k s u n ite in th e a m u s e m e n t, a n d a t
.
t h e c o ck pit a ll a r e o n a n e q u a l fo o ti n g
-
r o k e r s a r e p r es en t
. B
,
w ith wh o m t h e s t a k e s a r e d e p o s it e d , a n d w h o p ay o v er th e
'
m o n ey to th e wi n n e r s , r e c e ivi n g a s m a ll c o m p e n s a ti o n fr o m
e a c h o f t h e p a r ti e s C o ck s a r e u s u ally a r m e d with s l as h es ,
.
o r k n iv e s , w hich c o m m o n ly , o n t h e o n e s id e o r t h e o th e r , d o es
t h e w o r k o f e x e c uti o n i n a s h o r t ti m e T h e o v e r n m e n t li
g .
c en s es thi s s p o r t, a n d r e c e iv e s a r e v e n ue fr o m i t .
G o o dri ch
’
s U i v ers al G eogr ap hy
n .
U NIVE RS A L T R A V ELLE R . 1 03
ED U C A TI ON —.A G RIC U LT U R E .
Ample leg isl a t i ve p r ovi s ion h a s b een m a d e by th e M ex i ca n

g ov e r n m e n t t o f u r n i s h t h e m ea n s of ed u c a t i o n
,
b u t a s y e t l ittl e
b ey o nd this h a s be e n d o n e ; a n d s i n c e th e s e p a r a ti o n o f th e
‘
c o u n t r y fr o m th e do mi n i o n o f S p a i n , it is d o ubt fu l wh e th e r t h e
.
fa cili ti e s fo r o b t a i n i n g a th or o ugh ed uc a ti o n a r e e q u a l t o wh a t
th ey w e r e b e fo r e th a t e ve n t T h e U n ive r s i ty o f M ex w o h a s ,
.
a t p r e s e n t, b ut fe w s t u d e n t s ; s e v e r a l i n fe r i or c o lle g e s a n d .
s c h o o l s e xi s t , u n d e r th e di r e cti o n o f th e cl e r gy T h e h i gh e r
.
c l a s s es a r e ge n e r a lly e d u c a te d i n p r iv a t e F e w b o o ks t or e s ,
.
a n d b ut fe w p r i v a t e lib r a r i e s , ar e t o b e fo un d T he C a th e d r al
.
h a s a l a r ge lib r a r y , c h ie fly c o n fi ne d to w o r k s o n th e o l o gy .
T h e i n h a b it a n ts o f t h e city , it i s s a i d , a r e g e n er a lly a bl e t o r e a d
a n d wr i te : e v e n m e n in th e g a r b o f p o v e r t y , m ay b e s ee n r e a d
i n g i n th e s tr e e ts t h e n e w s p a p er s o f t h e d a y T h e e d u c a ti o n
.
o f fe m a l e s h a s b ee n g r e a tly n e gle cte d ; b u t with t h e fe w a d

v a n t a g e s whic h th ey h a ve e nj o y e d , th er e a r e t o b e fo un d l a d i es
o f n o s m al l i nf o r m a ti o n a n d i n t e lli ge n c e
Th e a i cul tu r e of M ex ico i s by n o m e ans as fl o ur i s hi n g a s

gr
m i ght b e e xp e ct e d , fr o m i ts n a tur a l r es o ur c e s ; a lth o u gh c o n
s id er a b le i m pr o v e me n t h a s b e e n a ffe ct e d o f l a t e y e a r s The .
p r i n cip a l a g r icu ltu r a l p r o d ucti o n s a r e g r a p es a n d n utri tive

r o o t s , t h e b a n a n a , a nd th e m a n i o c , to wh i c h m a y b e a dd e d
m a iz e , wh e a t, th e R y e a n d b a r le y a re c u ltiv a te d o n t h e hi gh e r
.
r e gi o n s , b u t o n ly to a s m a ll e x te n t O
a t s d o n o t a n s w e r w ell
. .
P o t a to es a r e a b un d a n t T h e M e xic a n s h a v e n o w a ll th e c u li
.
n a r y v e ge t a bl e s a n d fr uit t r e e s o f E ur o p e T r a ve lle rs a re
.
s u r p r i s e d to s e e th e t a bl es o f t h e w e a lthy i n h a bit a nt s l o a de d
with th e v e g e ta ble p r o d u cti o n s o f b o th c o n ti n en ts , in th e m os t
p e r fe c t s ta te .
f
T h e ecu n d i t y of la n ds wh i c h ar e we ll c u ltiv a t e d , i s s ur p r i
s n i gly gr e a t, e s p e c i a lly th o s e whic h a r e s u it a bly w a te re d .
I n t h e m o s t fe r til e p ar t o f th e t a b le l a n d b etw ee n Q u e r e t ar o
-
a n d L e o n , t h e w h e a t h a r v es t is 3 5 a n d 4 0 fo r 1 ; a n d s e v e r al
fa r m s c a n e v e n r e ck o n o n 5 0 o r 6 0 fo r 1 A t C h o lulo th e
.
c o m m o n r e t u r n i s fr o m 3 0 t o 4 0, b u t it fr e q u e n tly e xc eed s fr o m
7 0 to 80 fo r 1 .I n th e v a ll ey o f Me xico m a iz e yi eld s 200, a n d

w h e a t 1 8 o r 20 T h e m e a n p r od uc e o f th e w h o le c o u n tr y
.
_
M A b a d , a c a n o n o f th e
_
m a y b e s t a t ed a t 20 o r 2 5 fo r 1 . .
m e tr o p o lit an c h u r c h o f V a ll ad o lid de M e c h o a c a n , t o o k a t
r a n d o m fr o m a fi e ld o f wh e a t fo r ty pl a n t s , wh e n h e fo u n d th a t
e a c h s ee d h a d p r o d u c e d fo r ty , s ixty , a n d e v e n s e v e n ty s ta lk s .
T h e n u m b er o f g r a i n s which th e e ar s c o n t a i n e d fr e q ue n tly e x
c e e d e d 1 00 o r 1 2 0, a n d th e a ve r a g e a m o u n t a pp e a r e d to b e
90 . S o m e e v e n e xhibit e d 1 60 A fe w o f t h e e le v a t e d tr a cts ,
.
h o w e v e r , a r e c o v er e d with a ki n d o f cla y i m p e ne tr a bl e by th e
r o o t s o f h er b a c e o u s pl a n ts , a nd o t h e rs a r e a r id a n d n a k e d , in
w hic h th e c a ct us a nd o th e r p r ickly s h r ub s a l o n e v e ge ta te .
T h e fo ll o wi n g t a bl e e xhibits th e m e a n p r o d u c e o f th e c er eal
pl an ts i n d i ffer en t c o un tri e s o f bo th c o n ti n e n ts
1 04 U NIVE R S A L T R A VELLER .
M E X IC O .
In F ran ce, fr o m 5 t o 6 gr ain s fo r 1

In Hu n gary, C ro at ia, an d S clavo ni a, fro m 8 t o 1 0 gr ain s .
In L a P la t e , 1 2 gr ai n s
.
In t h e n or th ern p a r t of M exi c o. 1 7 gr ain s .
In e qu i n o c ti a l M exi c o , 2 4 gr ai n s .
In t h e p ro vi n ce o f P a s t o i n S an t a F e, 2 5 gr ain s ,
In t h e pl ain o f C ax am ar ca i n P er u, 1 8 t o 2 0 grai n s .
M ex i co p r od u ces th e C och i n ea l, th e n a m e o f av a l ua bl e s c ar
e t d y e o b t a i ne d fr o m a n in se ct th e C o ocu s C a ct i o f n a tur a l
,
g
t s ts ) which is fo u n d o n th e p r ick y p e a r t r e e c a ll e d N ep a l by .
t h e I n di a n s T hi s tr e e is g e n e r a lly pl a n t e d b y th e I n di a n s n e a r
.
th ei r h a bi ta ti o n s I n h o l e s ab o u t h a l f a y a r d d ee p a n d a b o ut
.
‘ ,
t w o y a r d s di s t a n t fr o m e a c h o th e r o n e o r t w o l e a v es o f th e
,
n o p a l ar e pl a c e d i n a fl a t p o s i ti o n , a n d th e n c o v e r e d with e a rt h .
T h es e l e a ve s gr o w up i n to a s i n gl e s te m which divid es i n to ,
b ra n c h e s th a t s u c c es s iv ely p r o d uc e fr e s h l e a v e s T h e s te m .
a n d b r a n ch es a r e fu ll o f k n o ts , fr o m whic h t h e l e a v e s g r o w .
T h e pl a n t is u s u a lly a b o u t th r ee y a r d s in h eigh t T h e d ec aye d .
b r a n ch es a r e c ar e fully r e m o v e d a n d th e pl a n ts k e pt fr ee o f
,
a ll ki n d s o f w e e d s A c o ll e c ti o n o f th es e t r e e s fo r m s a N ap a
.
l er i e. T h e fe m a l e c o chi n e a l i n s e ct s a r e pl a c e d a b o u t t h e 1 5th
o f O ct o b er in a n u m b e r o f s m a ll n est s a m o n g th e l e a v e s o f th e
,
n o p a l a n d th e y i m m e di a te ly w a n d e r o ve r t h e pl a n t in qu e s t o f
,
t h e p a rt ic ul a r b r a n ch e s t o whic h t h ey a tt a c h t h e m s e lv e s a n d ,
d ur i n g t h e ti m e o f b r ee di n g th ey a r e p r e s er v e d with t h e u t m o s t
,
c a r e , fr o m vi o l e n t wi n d s , fr o s t s & c a n d fr o m t h e d e p r e d a
,
.
ti o ns o f p a r tic u l a r bi r d s w o r m s doc A fte r a tt a i n i n g th e i r full

, ,
.
g r o wth t h e
,
y a r e p u t i n t o e a r th e n p o t s a n d wh e n th e y h a v e
b ee n c o n fi n e d fo r s o m e ti m e , th e y a r e kill e d g e n er a lly by ,
m e a n s o f h o t w a t er , a n d t a fte r be i n g d r i e d ar e p u t i n t o b a s
O n th e m a n n e r o f d r yi n g it th e c o l o r whic h i s o b t a i n e d chi e g
.
,
,
y
d ep e n d s T h e b es t i s th a t whi c h is d r i e d i n th e s u n
. T h r ee .
g a th er i n g a r e m a d e i n a y e ar ; b ut t h e l a s t g a th e r i n g i s t h e
l e a s t v a l ue d T h e c o chi n e a l e xp o r t e d fr o m V e r a C r u z i n
.
1 803, w a s v a l ue d a t s e v er a l milli o n s o f d o ll ar s .
Th e r el i g i on o
f M ex i co i s
lto ge th e r C a th o lic T h e cl er gy
a .
p o s s es s g r e a t i n fl ue n c e th o u gh it is n o w o n t h e d e cli n e th e i r
,
n u m b er is e s ti m a t e d a t a b o u t te n th o u s a n d h a l f o f w hich a r e
r e gu l a r a n d w e a r t h e c o wl T h ey fo r m e r ly p o s s e s s e d i m
.
m e n s e e s t a tes ; b u t withi n a fe w y e ar s th e s e h a v e b ee n r e d u
c e d t o l ess t h a n 2 0 m illi o n s T h e hi gh e s t s a l a r y enj o y e d by
.
a n y bi s h o p i s d o ll a r s a n d th e l e a s t i s 6 000 N 0 p r o
,
.
te s t a n t u n til c o n v e r t e d m a y m ar r y a R o m a n C a th o lic M a r
, ,
‘
.
r i a ges a r e c el e b r a t e d with s o m e p o m p — fo r thi s c er e m o n y th e
p r i e s t r e c e iv es fr o m p a r ti e s e v e n o f lo w r a n k tw e n ty t w o d o l
-
, ,
l a r s an d thi s in a c o u n t r y wh er e th e p r i c e o f l ab o r is o n ly o n e
,
q u a r t e r o f a d o ll a r a d ay a n d b u t 1 7 5 d a y s a ll o w e d by t h e
,
c h ur c h in which a g o o d R om a n C a th o li c m ay w o r k — M e xi
‘
,
c a n fu n er a ls a r e a t ten d e d with littl e c e r e m o n y A c o fli n is .
e m pl o y e d t o c o n v ey h e b o d y to t h e gr a v e ; b ut th er e it is
t
'
tak en o ut a n d c o n s igne d to th e ear th w ith o ut it .

1 06 UN IVE R S A L T R A VE LLER .
W T IN I
ES D ES .
T h e i nh a b it a n ts
’
f
o th e Wes t I nd i es ,
b e l o n gi n g a s th ey d o to
v a r i o us n a ti o n s , a r e gr e a tly div e r s ifi e d ; th e y c o n s i s t o f C r e
o l e s , S p a n i a r d s , F r e n ch , G e r m a n s , D a n e s , & c T h e m i x ed '
r a c es a r e n u m e r o us a n d t h e n e g r o es th e m o st n u m e r o u s o f al l
,
.
S l a ver y exi s t s in th e s e i s la n d s e xc e pt in th o s e be l o n gi n g t o
,
G r e a t B r it a i n in w hi c h it h a s b e e n r ec en tly a b o l i s h e d
"
, The .
C r e o l e s a r e gen e r a ll y t a ll er th a n th e E ur o p e a n s b ut l es s r o ,
b us t T h ey a r e q u ite g r a c e ful in th e i r m o ti o n s T h ei r e y es
. .
a r e d e e p er s e t th a n am o n g t h e n a tiv e s o f E u r o p e b ut a r e ge n ,
e r a lly b r illi a n t a n d expr es si v e I n h a bi ti n g a w a r m cli m a te
.
,
th ei r d r es s i s light an d l o o s e T h e i r b uil d i n g s , by r e a s o n o f
.
e xp o s u r e t o ea r thqu a k es a r e l o w , a n d ar e c o n s t r u ct e d w it h
,
r e fe r en c e t o c o m fo r t a n d c oo l n e s s r a th e r th a n o s t e n t a ti o n
‘
.
,
T h e fo o d o f t h e i n h a bita n ts is c hi efl y v e g et a bl e, c o n s i s ti n g o f
t h e b r e a d fru it, b a n a n a pl an t a i n , s wee t p o t ato, 65 0
-
S a lt fi s h .
is ext en s iv ely ea t en by th e s l a v e s .
S ev er a l l a n gu a g es po k e n in th e W es t I n di es , as th e
are s
E n gli s h , F r en c h S p a n i s h , with ot h er E u r o p ea n t o n g u es T h e
, .
d i s ea s es to whic h E ur o p e ans a r e s ubj e c t; a r e i n t e r m itt e n t, r e

m itt e n t, o r c o n ti n u ed fe v e r s— th e l a tt er is th e t r ue y e ll o w fe v e r .
C r e o l e s a n d n e g r o e s a r e s ubj e c t to i n te r m i tten t fe v er ; E ur o
p e a n s ,
w h o h a v e r e s id e d s o m e ti m e i n t h e W e s t I n di e s ar e ,
c o m m o n ly a tt a ck e d with fe v e r i n th e r e m itte n t fo r m ; whil st
t h e h e a lthi es t a n d th e s tr o n g e s t o f th e n e w c o m er s a r e s u bj e c t
to th e c o n ti n u e d o r y e ll o w fe v e r C f l a t e y e a r s h o w e v er , y e l
.
,
l o w fe v er in its m o s t m a lign an t fo r m , h a s n o t b e e n p r e v a l en t
i n th e B r iti s h W e s t I n di a I s l a n d s H a v a n a th e c a pit a l o f
.
,
C ub a, is s e l d o m e x e m pt fro m y e ll o w fe v er T h i s i s i m p ute d .
b y C a pt a i n A l e x an d e r to a lo n g m a r s h o f m a n g r o ve s e xt e n d
,
i n g fr o m th e s id e o f th e h a r b o r i n t o t h e c o u n t r y to th e e a s t .
T h e fo ll o wi n g fa ct is q ela te d by h im i n c o n fi r m a ti o n o f h is
O pi n i o n . Hi s B r it an n ic M aj e s ty s fr i g a te A u r o r a a r r ive d
’
s o m e ti m e a go a t H a v a n a a ft e r h a vi n g b e e n th r ee y e ar s i n
,
t h e W e s t I n d i e s ; s h e d r o pp ed h er a n ch o r a t a s p ot wh e r e th e
b r eez e bl o wi n g o v e r th e m a n gr o v e s w a m p c o u l d r e a c h h er .
T h e P yl a d e s a fr e s h a r r iv a l fr o m E n gl a n d a ls o a n c h or e d fo r
, ,
o n e n ight in t h e h ar b o r , b u t a t t h e d i s t a n c e o f a fe w h u n d r e d
y a r d s fr o m th e A u r o r a ; n ext m o r n i n g th e tw o v e s s e l s s a il e d .
T h e A u r o r a l o s t e ighty m en a n d o ffi c e r s in a fe w w e e k s fr o m
y e ll o w fe v e r , a n d t h e P yl a d e s t h o u g h un a cc
,
u s t o m e d t o t h e
c li m a t e, did n o t l o s e o n e h a n d .
It w o ul d gr e a tly exc ee d o ur li m its t o n otic e th e p eculia r itié s

o b s e r v ab l e i n t h e i n h a bit a n t s o f th e di ffe r en t i s l a n d s W e wi ll .
c o n fi n e o u r s e lv e s t o th o s e o f t h e i n h a bit a n t s o f Hav a n a The .
r i c h i n h a bit a n ts o f thi s city r i s e e a r ly t a k e a c u p o f c h o c o l a te ,

th e m e n li ht th e i r cig a r s a n d s t r o ll abo u t th e b a lc o n i e s till t e n
,
’
o cl o ck t e l a di es gen e r a lly a tte n d m a s s th e n a b r e a k fa s t
o f m e a t a n d fi s h e ggs a n d h a m wi n e a n d c o ffee i s b r o u ght i n ;
, , ,
a fter t h e s e a r e dis c u s s e d , th e c iga r s ar e a ga i n li ghte d a t a li t tle

U NIV E R S A L T R A V E L L E R . 1 07
M A NN E R OF LIVI NG .
n of c h a r c o a l pl a c e d o n th e m idd l e o f th e t a bl e , th e e ld e r l y
di e s us i ng th e c i ga r itto o r little ci a r w r a p p e d in p a p e r T h e
,
.
m e n th en o r d e r t h e v o l a n t e, o r w a l o ut, a n d th e wo m e n e ith e r
p ya a vi s it o f c e re m o n y ,
o r s i t a t h o m e t o rec e i v e o ne i n th ei r
’
r o cki n g c h a i r s . A t th r e e o cl o ck , d i nne r i s b r o u ght in , a n d
th e m e a l o f r ic h m a d e di s he s l as ts a n h ou r ; t h e c h a r c o a l p a n
a g a i n a ppe ar s ,
co ffee i s h a nd e d r o un d a n d a ll r e ti re to ta k e
,
th e i r s i es ta I n a n h o ur , th e F a s a o i s vi s ited , wh er e i s a l s o
.
th e a m phith e a t r e fo r th e car i d as d e tor us , (b ull fi gh t s , ) a n d

w h en t h es e t a k e pl a c e th e a ttr a c tio n is so g r ea t, th a t it i s e x
,
tr e m ely di ffic u l t t o p r o c u r e a d m i s s i o n .
T h e F a s a o is th e Hy d e P a r k o f H a va n a I n de s c r ibi n g thi s
.
b lic t C a pta i n A l e x a n d e r o b se r ve s A t t h di t c
p u r e s o r , e s an e
o f h a l f a m il e fr o m th e w a l ls o f t h e city w e fo u n d a b r o a d
’
, ,
r o a d wi th s id e w a lk s a n d r o w s o f t r e es M a r b l e fo u n t a i n s di f
.
fus e d a pl e a s i n g c o o l n e s s a n d s e a ts a t i n te r v a l s w e r e o cc u pi e d
,
by w e ll d r e s s e d m e n T h e l a di es we re se a ted in th e i r v o l a n tes ,
-
.
w hic h w er e hi ghly o r n a m en te d w ith s ilv e r a n d th e p o s tili o n , ,

in a r ic hly l a ce d h us s ar j a ck e t T h e v o l a n t e s fo ll o w ed o ne
.
a n o th e r a t a s l o w p a ce t h e bl u e cl o th w a s r e m o v e d fr o m th e
fr o n t o f th e v o l a n t e , a n d th e fa i r C ub a n n as s a t r e ve a l e d i n a ll
th e i r c h a r m s to th e a d m i r i n g g a z e o f th e lo u n ge r s ” .
T h e d o n n a s w er e all cl o th ed in vi r gi n w hite , w o r e n o h e a d
d r e s s e xc e pt b e a u ti fully c a r ve d a n d ve r y l a r g e to r t o i s e s h e l l
,
c o m b s, th e fas hi o n o f whic h a lt er s e ve r y m o n th , e n ta ili n g a

h e a vy e xp en se o n h u s b a n d s a n d fa th er s T h e i r h a i r w a s .
“d a r k a s th e c ur t a i n o f n ight o v er s h a d o wi n g th e b ur n i n g h
e a rt
”
o f a lo v e r a n d t h e c o o l b r e e z e o f e v en i n g w a n t o n e d wit h
‘
t h e i r t r e s s es ; th e i r c o m pl e xi o n s w er e lik e P a r i a n m ar bl e a n d ,
a s th ey p a s s e d a n a cq u a i n t a n c e th e i r fi ne ey e s b e a m e d fo r t h
,
pl e as u r e, a n d w ith a liv e ly s h a k e o f th e fa n th ey li s p e d, a di os !
a di o s
'
T h e m a n n er of li v in g a t a n Ha va n a ta ver n , o r b o ar di n g
h o us e , is th u s d e s c r ib ed by th e s a m e a u th o r T h e c h ar g e .
fo r di n n e r w a s o n e d o ll a r , fo r whic h a b un d a n t fa r e w a s p r o
-
vid e d , i n cl u s iv e o f F r e n c h cl a r e t S o u p s , s o lid s , a nd d e s s er t,
.
w e r e pl a c e d o n th e ta bl e a t o n c e ; th e di s h es we r e c r o w d ed
o n o n e a n o th er , a n d o n the r i n gi n g o f th e b e ll , th e c o m p a n y
h a s tily tdo k the i r s e a ts, a n d m ad e a vi o r o u s o ns l au ght ; e v e r y
o n e pl u n g e d h is fo r k i n to th e di s h h e ike d b e s t .
S u c h a qu a n tity o f o il a n d g r e as e , t o s ay n o thi n g o f gar lic ,

is u s e d i n S p a n is h c o o k er y , th a t I r ea lly c o ul d n o t pl a y th e
’
k n i fe a n d fo r k , th a t m y a pp e tite p ro m pte d m e to d o , b ut c o n
tr iv e d t o a ll a y t h e c r a vi n g s o f h un g e r w ith c o ffe e a n d b r e a d
a t th e e n d o f t h e fe a s t .
“T h e c o m p an y c o n s i s t e d o f S p a ni ar d s G e r m a n s F r en c h ;
, ,
m e n , R u s s i a n s , a n d E n gli s h , c a pt a i n s o f s hip s it w as a s tr a n ge
m e dl ey b o t h a s t o l a n g u a ge a n d m a n n e r s M o s t o f th e g ue s ts
.
h a d th e a ir o f d e s p er a d o e s a nd a dve n t ur e r s , a n d th ey s ee m e d
ver y in di ffe r e nt t o c o m m o n c o ur t es y i n t h e i r b e h a vi o r to eac h
1 08 U NI VE R S A L T R A V ELL ER .
W T I NDI
ES ES .
o t h er ; th u s th es e h o us e s it i s n o u n c o m m o n thi n g to s ee
at
Jo i n ts o f m e a t a n d l a s s es fl yi n g a c r o s s th e t a bl e, a n d vi o l e n t
q u ar r e l s e n d i n g i n l o w s .
S o m eti m es th ey c o m m e n c e in thi s w ay ; a s kipp er a s k s fo r

a n o m e l e t o pp o s it e t o h i m a n e g r o r u n s r o u n d t o fe tc h it ; i n
c o n veyi n g it to th e s a il o r , h e i s s to p p e d h a l f w ay b y a n o th e r
g e n tl e m a n w h
,
o c o o lly s e iz es t h e di sh c u t s t h e o m e l e t i n t w o,
,
t a k e s h a l f hi m s e l f, a n d gi ve s th e o th er h a l f to a fr i e n d n e x t
h im ; t h e di s a pp o i n t e d s kipp e r v e n ts h i s r a g e by u tte r i n g a
'
h e a r ty c ur s e , a n d s e n d s h i s gl a s s a t th e h e a d o f th e gen tl e m a n
w h o h a d t a k en t h e b r e a d o u t o f h i s
Wh en a r esp ect a bl e
p d i es i n th e a v n
er s on
a a ,
a l o fty s t a g e H
is e r e cte d i n t h e p r i nc ip a l a p a r t m e n t, c o v er e d with bl a ck
d r a p e r y a n d ti n s e l o r n a m e n t s , a n d o n th e to p o f it t h e o p e n
c o ffi n i s pl a c e d a t a n a n gl e s o a s t o e xp o s e t h e d e a d b o d y ,
d r e s s e d in h o lyd a y cl o th e s to th e s p e c t a t o r s b el o w T h e r e i s
,
. ,
'
a l s o a g r e a t d i s pl a y o f w a x light s i n t h e r o o m T h e v o l a nte s .
o f t h e fr i e n d s o f t h e d e c e a s e d b e i n g a s s e m bl e d th e bi e r i s ,
l a c e d a c r o s s th e l e a di n g o n e whic h with t h e p o s tili o n a n d ,

o r s e is c o v e r e d wi t h bl a ck cl o th , a n d a tt e n d e d by s l a v es i n
,
r e d c o a t s , g o ld l a c e d c o ck e d h a t s , a n d c a n es i n th e i r h a n d s
-
.
T h e p r o c e s s i o n m o v e s t o th e C a m p o S a n t o A rr iv e d th er e , .
t h e c o ffi n is t a k en fr o m th e v o l a n te th e h e a d o f th e c o r p s e ,
b e i n g u n c o v er e d a n d k e p t in c o n s t a n t m o ti o n by th e h a s ty
,
s t e p s o f t h e b e ar e r s It is a gh a s tly s ight A fter t h e s er vic e
. .
i s p e r fo r m e d th e b o d y i s c o m m o n ly t um b l e d u n c er e m o n i o u s ly
,
i n to a s h a ll o w g r a v e li m e a n d e a r th th r o w n o v e r it whil s t th e
, ,
c o ffi n is r e t ur n e d fo r th e n e xt w h o r e q u i r e s it Wh e n chil .
dr e n a r e b u r i e d t h e a tt e n d a n t s s i n g a n d pl ay liv e ly a i r s b e
,
fo r e t h e m .T r uly , a fun e r a l a t th e H a v an a i s c o n d uc te d i n a
m a nn e r th a t th e m o s t u n c iviliz e d n a ti o n m i ght b e a s h a m e d o f ;
b ut s u c h h a s b e e n th e c u s t o m fr o m ti m e i m m e m o r i a l .
T h r o u gh o u t th e W e s t I n d i a I s l a n d s , th e m ea n s of ed u c a t i on
a r e ext r e mely li m it e d In H
a yti , s ch o o l s ar e c o m m o n , a n d a
.
c o ll e ge w a s s o m e y e a r s s i n c e fo u n d e d a t C a e ayti e n M a n y ,
H .
o f th e y o u n m e n b e l o n gi n g to t h e W e s t I n i a I s l a n d s a r e s e n t
e ith e r t o ur o p e , o r A m e r ic a , fo r e d u c a ti o n T h e r e li gi o n .
v a r i e s in di ffe r e n t I s l a n d s I n C ub a a n d ayti, it i s ge n er a lly

. H
C a th o lic T h e I s l a n d s m o s tly b e l o n gi n g to E ur o p e a n p o w er s
.
a r e u n d er g o v e r n o r s s e n t t o th e m by t h e p a r e n t c o u n tr y .
T h e s e go v er n o r s a r e us ua lly a s s i s te d by a c o un cil T h e gov .
e r m en t o f C ub a i s in th e h a n d s o f a C a pt a i n G e n er a l , a pp o i n t
e d by th e K i n g o f S p a i n Hayti i s a r ep ublic , h a vi n g a P r es i
.
d en t ch o sen by th e s e n a te fo r li fe Ja m a ic a h a s a o v e r n o r,
g
.
a c o u n cil o f tw elv e m e m b e r s a n d a h o us e o f A s s e m b y ch o s e n
,
b y th e fr ee h o ld er s -
.
Among th e p r i ncip al p r od uct i ons of th e Wes t In dia I s l and s .

I IO U NIVER S A L T R A VE LLER .
W T IN IES D ES .
i
r es dr o p r ea dily . T h es e ar e a f e r w ar
p r e a d u p o n m a ts
t ds s
’
a n d e xp o s e d t o th e s u n s r a y s u n til p e r fe ctly d r y w h e n t h e ,
h us k i s b r o k e n wi th la r e h e a vy r o ll er s m a d e e ith e r o f w o o d
‘ r
o r o f s to ne I h e c o ee th u s cl e a r e d o f it s h us k i s a a i n
.
d r i e d th o r o ughly in t h e s u n th a t it m a y n o t b e li a bl e to
, ea t
w h e n p a ck e d fo r s hip m e n t .
T h e m e th o d e m pl o y e d i n th e W es t I n d i e s d i ffe r s fr o m thi s
‘
.
N e gr o es a r e s e t to g a t h e r s u ch o f th e b e r r i e s a s a r e s uffi c ie n t
ly r i p e a n d fo r thi s p u r p o s e ar e p r o vid e d e a c h w i th a c a n v a s s
,
b a g h a vi n g a h i r o u r i n g o r h o o p a t it s m o ut h t o k ee p it a l
, ‘
w a y s d i s ten d e d a n d thi s b a g i s s l un g r o u n d th e n e ck s o a s to
,
l e a v e b o th h a n d s a t li b e rt y A s o fte n a s thi s b a g is fill e d th e

.
,
c o n te n t s a r e tr a n s fe r r e d to a l a r g e b a s k e t pl a c e d c o n ve n i e n tly
fo r t h e p u r p o s e Wh e n th e t r e e s a r e in fu ll b e a r i n g a n i n d us
.
,
t r i o n s m a n will pi ck th r e e b u s h e l s in a d a y I f m o r e ar e g a th .
e r e d p r o p e r c a r e c a n h a r d ly b e e x e r ci s e d i n s e l e cti n g o n ly
,
t h e b er r i es th a t a r e r ip e It i s th e u s u a l c a lc u a ti o n th a t e a c h
.
,
b u s h el o f ri p e b e r r i es will yi e ld te n p o un d s w e i ; h t o f m er ch a nt
a bl e c o ffe e .
I n c u r i n g c o ffe e it is s o m e ti m e s u s u a l t o e xp o s e th e b er
’
r i es t o th e s u n s r a y s in l a y e r s fi v e o r s ix i nch es d e e p o n a
, ,
pl a t fo r m B y th i s m e a n s t h e p ulp fe r m e n ts in a fe w d a y s a n d
.
,
h a vi n g t h us t h r o w n o ff a s tr o n g a cid ul o us m o i s tu r e d r ies ,
g r a d u a lly d u r i n g a b o u t t h r e e w e e k s ; t h e h u s l s a r e a fter w a r d s
s e p a r a t e d fr o m t h e s e e d s i n a m ill O th e r pl a nte r s r e m o ve .
t h e p ul p fr o m t h e s e e d s a s s o o n a s t h e b er r i e s a r e g a t h e r e d .
T h e p ulpi n g m ill u s e d fo r thi s p u r p o s e c o n s i s t s o f a h o r iz o nt a l

fl u t e d r o ll e r t ur n e d b y a c r a n k a n d a cti n g a g a i n s t a m o v e a bl e
, ,
b r e a s t b o a r d , s o pl a c e d a s to p r e v e n t th e p a s s a ge o f wh o l e
-
b e r r i es b e tw e e n its e l f a n d th e r o ll e r T h e p ulp is t h e n s e p a r a .
t e d fr o m t h e s ee d s by w a s hi n g th e m , a n d t h e l a tt e r a r e s p r e a d
o ut i n t h e s u n t o d r y th e m It i s th e n n e c es s a r y t o r e m o v e th e
.
m e m b r a n o u s s ki n o r p a r ch m e n t, which i s e ffe ct e d b y m e an s
o f h e a vy r o ll e r s r u n n i n g in a t r o u gh wh er e i n t h e s ee d s a r e p ut .
T hi s m ill is w o r k e d by c a ttl e T h e s e e d s a r e a fte r w a r d s .
w i n n o w e d to s e p a r a t e th e ch a ff a n d i f a ny a m o n g th e m a p ,
p e a r t o h a v e e s c a p e d th e a cti o n o f th e r o ll e r t h ey a r e a g a i n ,
p a s s e d th r o u gh th e m ill ” .
“ T h e m a n u fa c tu r e o f s u a r is a s o m e wh a t c o m plic a te d
g
p r o c e s s , r e q ui r i n g fo r it s s u c c e s s ful p e r fo r m a n c e , n o t o n ly
s o m e d e g r ee o f ch e m ic a l k n o wl e d ge , b ut lik e wi s e a c o n s id e r
a bl e a m o u n t o f p r a c tic a l e xp e r i e n c e W e m u s t c o n te n t o ur .
s e lv e s h e r e with givi n g th e m er e s t o u tli n e o f t h e o p e r a t i o n s ,

r e fe r r i n g th e r e a d e r , w h o is c u r i o u s in s u c h m at te r s , t o b o o k s
wh e r e i n t h e wh o l e d e t a il s a r e giv e n .
W h e n t h e c a n e s a r e fu lly r ip e th ey ar e c ut cl o s e to th e ,
s to l e ,
n d b e i n g th e n divid e d i n t o c o n v en i en t l e n gth s a r e ti e d
,
u p in b nn dl e s a n d c o n v ey e d t o t h e m ill
,
T hi s a l w a y s c o ns is ts .
o f th r e e i r o n cyli n d er s s o m e ti m e s s t a n di n g p e r p e n dic u l a r ly
,
in a h a s with ea c h o th er a nd at o th er ti m es pl a c e d h o r i z o n
.
U NIV ER S A L T R A V E LLE R . 111
S UGA R .
t a lly a n d di s p o s e d i n t h e fo r m o f a t r i a n gl e a n d s o a dj us te d
, ,
th a t th e c a ne s o n b e i n g p a s s e d twic e b e tw e e n th e c y li n d e r s o f
,
e ith er k i n d o f m ill , s h a ll h a v e a ll th e i r j u ic e e xp r es s e d T hi s .
i s c o ll e cte d i n a ci s te r n , a n d m us t b e i m m e di a t e ly pl a c e d u n
“
d e r p r o c e s s by h e a t, to p r e v e n t i ts b e c o m i n g a cid a n e ffe c t ,
whic h h a s s o m e ti m e s c o m m e n ce d a s e a r ly a s tw e n ty m i n u te s
fr o m th e ti m e o f its b e i n g e xp r es s e d A c er t a i n qu a n t ity o f
.
li m e in p o w d er , o r o f li m e w a t er is a d d e d a t thi s ti m e t o p r o
,
-
,
m o t e th e s e p a r at i o n o f th e fe c ul e n t m a tt e r s c o n t a i n e d i n th e
j u ic e a n d th e s e b e i n g a s fa r a s p o s s ibl e r e m o v e d a t a h e a t ,
j u s t s uffi ci e n t to c a us e t h e i m p ur iti e s to c o lle ct t o g e th er o n

t h e s ur fa c e th e c a n e liqu o r i s t h e n s u bj e ct e d to a v er y r a pid
,
b o ili n g i n o r d e r t o e va p o r a te th e w a te r y p a r ticl e s a n d b r i n g
, ,
th e s y r u p t o, s u c h a c o n s i s te n cy t h a t it will g r a n ul a t e o n c o o l
ing . T h e q u a n ti ty o f s u g a r o bt a i n a bl e fr o m a giv e n m e a s u r e
o f c a n e j uic e v ar i e s a c c o r di n g t o t h e s e as o n , th e s o il t h e p e
-
, ,
r i o d o f t h e y ea r a n d th e q u a lity o f t h e c a n e s ; b u t it m ay b e
,
c a lc ul a t e d t h a t, t a ki n g o n e s t a te o f ci r c u m s ta n c e s with ah
,
o th er i n th e s e re s p e c ts e v e r y fi v e g a ll o ns , im p er i a l m e as u r e
,
o f c a n e j u ic e will yi eld s ix p o u n d s o f c r y s t a lli z e d s u a r

-
,
an ,
w ill b e o b t a ine d fr o m a b o ut o n e h u n d r e d a n d te n w e gro wn -
c an es .
T h e fu el u s e d fo r th us c o n c e n tr a ti n g th e j uic e is fu r n i s h e d
b y th e c a n e its el f, whic h , a fte r th e e xp r e s s i n g o f th a t j u ic e , is
d r i e d fo r th e p u r p o s e by e xp o s u r e to t h e s u n .
Wh e n th e s uga r is s u ffi ci e n tly c o o l ed i n s h a ll o w t r a y s , it i s
p u t i n to t h e h o
gs h e a d s w h e r e i n i t i s s hipp e d to E u r o p e T h e s e .
c a s k s h a ve th e i r b o tt o m s pi er c e d with h o les , a n d a r e pla c ed

u p r i ght o v er a l a r ge c is te r n i n t o whic h t h e m o l a s s es — whic h
i s t h e p o r ti on o f s a cch a r i n e m a tte r th a t w ill n o t c r y s t a lli z e
d r a i n s a w ay , l e a vi n g t h e r a w s u a r i n th e s t a te wh e r e i n w e
’
s e e it in o u r g ro c er s s h o p s ; t e c a s k s a r e th e n fill e d up ,
h e a d e d d o wn , a n d s hipp e d .
W ith th e pl a nt er s i n th e E n gli s h c o l o n i es , th e p r o c es s o f
s u gar m a ki n g m o s tly e n d s with t h e d r a i n i n g a w a y o f t h e m o
l a s s es i n th e m a n n e r j u s t m e n ti o n e d ; b ut in th e F r e n ch , p a n S
i s h , a n d P o r tu g u e s e s e ttl e m e n t s , it is us u a l to s u b m it t h is r a w
s u g a r to t h e fa r th e r p r o c es s o f cl a yi n g F o r thi s p u r p o s e t he
.
s u g a r , a s s o o n a s it i s c o o l i s p l a c e d i n fo rm s o r m o u l d s s i m i
, ,
l a r t o th os e us e d i n t h e s u g ar r e fi n e r i e s i n E n gl a n d , b ut m uc h
l a r ge r ; a n d th es e b ei n g pl a c e d with th e i r s m a ll e nd d o w n
w a r d s , t h e t o p o f th e s u g a r is c o ver e d with cl ay m o i s ten e d to
th e c o n s i s t en c e o f thi n p a s t e , th e w a te r c o n ta in e d in w h ic h
gr a d ua lly s o a k s th r o ugh t h e s uga r a nd w a s h e s o u t a fa r th er
qu a n tity o f m o l a ss es , with wh ich it e s c a p es th r o u h a h o l e p u r
p o s ely m a d e a t t h e p o i n t o f t h e e a r t h e n m e n (1
-
It is th e n .
c a ll e d cl a y e d s u gar : th e le a ve s wh e n r e m o v e d fr o m th e fo r m s
a r e fr e q ue n t ly d ivi d e d i n t o t h r ee p o r ti o n s wh i c h b e i n o f d i f
, , g
fer en t c o l o r s a n d qu a liti es , a r i s i n g fr o m th e g r e a t er e ffe ct o f
th e w a ter i n cl e a n s i n g t h e u pp er p o r ti o n a r e p ul v er i z ed a n d
,
a ck e d s e p a r a te l fo r e xp o r t a ti o n
p y .
W T
ES IN D I ES .
T h e m o l a s s es whic h h a v e d r a i n e d fr o m t h e s u g a r , t o g e th e r
with a ll th e s c um m i n gs o f th e c o p p er s , a r e c o ll e c t e d , a n d , b e
ing fi r s t fe r m e n te d , a r e d i s till e d fo r t h e p r o d u cti o n o f r u m T h e .
p r o p o r ti o n a te qu a n tity o f thi s s pi r it, a s c o m p a r e d with t h e

we ight o f s ug a r p r o d uc e d , v a r i e s c o n s id e r ab ly with th e s e a
s o n s a n d m a n a ge m e n t I n fa v o r a bl e y e a r s wh e n t h e c a n e s
.
a r e fully r ip e n e d , a n d th e q ua lity o f t h e s uga r i s g o o d , t h e p r o

p o r ti o n o f m o l a s s e s a n d s c um m i n g s i s c o m p a r a t iv ely s m a ll,
a n d t h e m a n u fa ct ur e o f r u m i s c o n s e q ue n t ly l es s e n e d ; th e
p r o po r ti o n u s u a lly m a d e i s r e ck o ne d to b e fr o m fi v e to s ix
ll n f p r o o f s p i r it for e v e r y h u n d r e d w e i ght o f s u ga r
”
g a o s o .
f
A m o ng th e r u i ts w hi ch d es e r v e n o tic e is th a t o f th e B r ea d
fr u i t t r e e , w hic h w a s o r i gi n a lly fo u n d in th e s o uthe a s t er n p a r ts
‘
o f A s i a , a n d th e i s l a n d s o f t h e P a cific T h e b r e a d fr u it t r e e i s
.
-
a b e a u ti ful , a s w e ll a s a us e ful t r e e ; th e t r u n k r i s es t o th e
h e ight o f a b o u t fo r ty fe e t, a n d , in a full g r o w n t r ee , i s fr o m a -
fo o t t o fi fte e n i n ch e s i n di a m e te r ; t h e b ar k i s a s h c o l o r e d , full -
o f littl e c hi n k s , a n d c o v e r e d by s m all k n o b s ; t h e i n n er b ar k i s
fib rou s , a n d u se d in t he m a n u fa c tur e o f a s o r t o f cl o th a n d
t h e w o o d i s s m o o th , s o ft , a n d o f a y e ll o w c o l o r W h e n ful l .
gr o wn , th e fr u it is a b o u t n i n e i n c h es l o n g, h e a r t s h a p e d , o f a -
r e e n i s h c o l o r , a n d m a r k e d with h e x a g o n a l w a r t s , fo r m e d
g
l n t o fa c e t s . T h e p ulp i s white , p ar tly fa r i n a c e o u s a n d p a r tly
fib r o u s ; b ut wh e n qui te r ip e, it b e c o m e s y e ll o w a n d j u icy .
S
I n th e o ut h S e a I s l a n d s , thi s t r e e c o n ti n u e s p r o d u ctiv e fo r
a b o u t e i ght m o n th s i n th e y e a r T w o o r th r ee t r e e s will s u ffi c e
.
’
fo r a m a n s y e ar ly s u pp o r t ; a s t o r e b e i n g m a d e i n t o a s o ur
p as t e c a ll e d m a k e, which i s e a t e n d u r i n g t h e u n p r o d u ctiv e s e a
s on . W he n th e fr uit i s r o a s te d u n til t h e o u ts i d e is ch ar r e d ,
th e p u lp h a s a c o n s i s te n cy n o t v er y u n lik e h e aten b r e a d ; W
a n d th e t a s t e i s i n te r m e di a t e b e tw e e n th a t o f b r e a d a n d r o a s t e d
c h e s t nu t s It is s a i d t o b e v e r y n o ur i s hi n g , a n d is p r e p a r e d in
.
v a r i o us w a y s .
P r e vi ou s ly to th e y e ar 1 7 9 3 thi s t r e e w as n o t fo u n d i n th e
,
W e s t I n d i a I s l a n d s A s e a r ly a s 1 7 8 7 t h e ki n g o f G r e a t B r it
.
,
a i n a t t h e r e q u e s t o f t h e pl a n t e r s , a n d o th e r s i n t e r e s t e d i n th e
,
W e s t I n di e s o r d e r e d a v e s s e l c a ll e d th e B o u n ty t o b e fitte d
,
”
u p fo r a v o y a g e t o O t a h e ite , fo r t h e p u r p o s e o f s hippi n g pl a n t s .
Li e ut e n a n t B li gh w a s a p p o i n t e d to t h e c o m m a n d I n N o v e m .
b er , 1 7 87 , thi s v e s s el p u t t o s e a , a n d a ft er a v o y a g e o f te n
m o n th s , a r r iv e d a t O t a h e it e .
“N o ti m e w a s l o s t i n p u tti n g th e i n s t r u cti o n s i n t o e x e c u ti o n .
T h e y o u n g s h o o t s th a t s p r u n g fr o m t h e l a t e r a l r o o t s o f t h e
b r e a d fr uit tr e e s w er e t a k e n u p w ith b a ll s o f e a r th wh er e th e
-
, ,
s o il w a s m o i s t ; a n d thi s O p e r a ti o n w a s c o n ti n u e d till th e y
'
wer e i n p o s s es s i o n o f o ne th o us a n d a n d fifte e n liv e pl a n t s s e ,
c u r e d in s e v e n h u n d r e d a n d s e v e n t y fo ur p o t s thi r ty n i ne t u b s
- -
, ,
a n d tw e n ty fo u r b o x e s
-
T h e c o m pl e ti o n o f th e c a r go o c c u
.
i d till t h 3d f A p r il 1 7 89 a n d B ligh s a il e d t h e fo ll o wi n g d ay
p e e o ,; .
H i th er to th er e h a d b een n o p er il s to c o n ten d w ith b ut th o se

1 14 U NIVER S A L T R A VELL ER .
W T IN I
ES D ES .
Ho ll a n d and N ew G u i e
n a — whic h , i n h i s fo r m er voy a g e in th e
B o u n ty ,
h e h a d b e e n th e fi r s t to n a vig a t e .
’
O n th e 9 t h o t A p r il, 1 7 9 2 , th ey r e a ch e d ta h e i te , a n d , b y O
t h e 1 7 th o f J u ly , t h ey w er e r e a d y to l e a v e th e i s l a n d , h a vi n g o n
b o a r d tw e lve h u n d r e d a n d e i ty o n e tubs a n d p o t s o f pl a n ts ,
-
’
a ll i n t h e fi n e s t c o n diti o n T e w a s n o m u ti n y o n thi s v o
.
y
a ge ; b ut th e p a s s a ge b e tw e e n N e w H
o ll a n d a n d N e w G u i n e a
w a s d a n e r o us ; a n d it w a s t h e 2 d o f ct o b er b e fo r e th e c a p O
t a i n r ea o e d h i s o ld fr i e n d s a t C o u p a n g He r e m a i n e d th er e .
fo r a w ee k , r ep l a ci n g with pl a n t s fr o m th a t i s l a n d th o s e t h a t
h a d d i e d o n t h e v o y a ge ; a n d th en h e c a m e to t h e A tl a n tic by
th e C a p e o f G o o d H
o p e , which h e c o n t r iv e d to p a s s s o cl o s e ly
a s n e v e r to h a v e a l o w er t e m p e r a t u r e th a n s ix ty o n e d e gr e es -
o f F a h r en h ei t .
O n th e 2 3 d o f J a n u a r y , 1 79 3, b e a n ch o r e d a t S t Vi n c e n t , .
w h er e h e l e ft, with D r A n d e r s o n, th e s up er i n te n d e n t o f th e
.
B o t a n ic a l g a r d e n , t h r e e h u n d r e d a n d thi r t y th r e e b r e a d — fr u it -
t r e e s , a n d t w o h u n d r e d a n d e l e v e n fr uit tr e es o f o th e r ki n d s ,
r e c e i v i n g a t th e s a m e ti m e n e a r ly fi v e h u n d r e d t r o pic a l pl a n t s
B
fo r th e o t a n ic a l g a r d e n a t K e w F r o m S t Vi n c en t, C a pt a i n
. .
B ligh s a il e d fo r J a m a i c a , wh e r e h e l e ft th r ee h u n d r e d a n d fo r
ty ~ s e v e n b r e a d fr u it s a n d t w o h u n d r e d an d s e v e n ty —
-
s ix o t h e r s ,
,
which w e r e a s e l e cti o n o f a ll th e fi n e s t fr uits o f th e e a s t S o m e
. .
o f t h e pl a n t s w er e a l s o l e ft o n th e i s l a n d o f G r a n d C a m a n ; a n d
th e s hip s fi n a lly c a m e t o th e D o w n s o n th e 2 d o f A u gu s t, 1 7 9 3 .
“B ut a fte r a ll t h e p e r il h a r d s hip a n d e xp e n s e th u s i n c u r
, , ,
r e d , t h e b r e a d fr uit t r e e h a s n o t, hith e r t o a t l e a s t , a n s w e r e d
-
,
th e e xp e ct a t i o n s t h at w e r e e n te r t a i n e d The a n a n a is m o r e
. B
ea si a n d c h e a ply c u l tiv a t e d , c o m e s i n t o b ear i n g m u ch s o o n
ly
e r a e r b e i n g pl a n t e d , b e a r s m o r e a b u n d a n tly , a n d i s b e tt e r
r e li s h e d b y t h e n e g r o es T h e m o d e o f p r o p a g a ti n g t h e b r e a d
.
fr ui t is n o t, i n d ee d , d i ffi c u lt ; fo r th e pl a n t er h a s o n ly t o l a y
b a r e o n e o f th e r o o ts , a n d m o u n d it with a s p a d e , a n d in a
s h o r t s p a c e a s h o o t c o m e s u p , whic h i s s o o n fit fo r r e m o v a l .
“E ur o p e a n s a r e m u c h fe n d e r o f t h e b r e a d fr uit th a n n e -
g r o e s T h ey c o n s i d e r i t a s a s o r t o f d a i n ty , a n d us e it e ith er
.
a s b r e a d o r p u d d i n gs W h e n r o a s t e d i n t h e o v e n , th e t as te
.
o f i t r e s e m bl e s th a t o f a p o t a t o , b ut i t i s n o t s o m e a ly a s a
go o d
W e s h a ll h er e bid a di e u, fo r th e p r e s en t, to N o r th A m er ic a ,
a n d with it t o t h e l a n d o f o u r b i r th n o t fi n a lly , w e t r u s t , fo r i n
r es ep ct to o u r c ou n t r y — o u r o w n c o u n t r y — th e l a n d o f o u r
s i r e s — th e h o m e o f o u r m o th er s — whic h o f u s s ay s n o t w ith th e
p oe t
Wh ere er ’
I v
r o am , w h a te er rea l ms t o s ee,
M y h ear t d fo n d l y
’
un t r avell t ur n s t o t h ee
Y e s , fell o w t r a v e ll er s , w e h a v e s till a fe ar ful di s t a n c e b e fo r e

us ; b u t w e w ill a g a i n r e t ur n to th e l a n d o f o u r bi r th , h a v1 n g
e th er e d i n s tr u c ti o n by wh a t w e h a v e s e en , a n d c o n te n t m e nt
y w h a t w e h a v e fe lt .
L ib . of E n ter t ai ning Kn owl edge .

U NIVE R S A L T R A VELLE R . 1 15
S O U T H A M E RI C A .
S E C T I ON II .
-
S O U T H AME R I C A .
1 . C OL OM B IA .
ON t i g S o u th A m er ic a , th e fi r s t c o untr y whic h cl a i m s
e n er n
o ur n o tic e i s th e R ep u bl i c of C o lo m bi a T h i s R e p ub lic i s o f .
r e c e n t o r i gi n W hil e u n d e r t h e S p a n i s h d o m i n i o n , it c o m p r e
.
h e n d e d t h e S t a te s Vi c e R o ya lt y of N e w G r en a d a T h e C a p ,
t a i n G en er a ls h ip of C a r a ca s a n d t h e P r es i d en cy of Qu i t o
,
.
T h e li b e r a t io n o f C o lo m b ia w a s e ff e c te d i n 1 8 1 3 by t h e c e l eb r a ,
t ed S i m o n B o li v a r w h o h a vi n g r a i s e d 1 000 m e n fo ught s e v e r a l
, ,
s u cc e s s fu l b a ttl e s wit h t h e r o y a li s t s a n d a t l e n gth e n t e r e d a s , ,
a c o n q u e r o r t h e c i ty o f C a r a c a s o n t h e 4 th o f A u g u s t o f t h e
, , ,
a b o ve y e a r I n 1 8 1 9 th e s e v e r a l t e r r it o r i e s w e r e c r e a te d i n to
.
,
a R e p ublic a n d a p o p u l a r r e p r e s e n t a tiv e go v e r n m e n t w a s e s
,
t a b li s h e d .T h e i r c o n s tit uti o n r e s e m bl es th a t o f t h e U n ite d

S t a te s .
T h i s R ep u bli c i s b ou n d ed n o r th by t h e C ar r ib e a n s ea ; e a s t
by G u i a n a a n d B r a zil ; s o uth by B r a zil a n d P e r u a n d w e s t by ,
th e P a cific O c e a n ; a n d c o n t a i n s p r o b ably a b o u t of
s q u a r e m il e s T h e p o p ul a ti o n o f thi s v a s t c o un t r y whic h is
.
,
m o r e th a n s e v e n ti m e s t h e e xte n t o f t h e B r iti s h I s l e s i s a b o u t ,
t w e n ty s e v e n t o a s q u a r e l e a gu e o r t w o m illi o n s s e v e n h u n d r e d
-
,
th o u s a n d *
. O f th e s e o n ly a r e whit e s ;
,
a re
Me s ti z o e s I n di a n s m u l a tt o e s a n d fr e e bl a ck s
a nd s l a ve s T h e C o l o m bi a n s in th e ir m a n n e r s a n d
.
c u s t o m s s tr o n gly r e s e m b l e o th e r S o u th A m er ic a n n a ti o n s .
T h e y a d o pt t h e S p a n i s h fa s hi o n s a n d u s e th e S p a n i s h la n ,
g u a g e . With o u t a tt e m pti n g t h e d i ffi c u l t t a s k o f givi n g ge n e r a l

c h a r a ct e r i s tic s wh e r e c o n s id e r a bl e v a r i e ty e xi s ts w e will p r e
, ,
s e n t o u r fe ll o w t r a v e ll er s with a n a c c o u n t o f t h e i n h a bit a n t s o f
s e v er a l o f t h e p r i n cip a l t o w n s c h i e fly d r a w n fr o m th e w r iti n g s
,
o f th e c e l e b r a t e d H u m b o ldt W e b e gi n with .
Cu m a n a — T hi s t o w n i s s it ua te d i n th e n o r th e r n p a r t o f C o
lo m bi a , n e a r t h e m o uth o f th e G ul f o f C a r i a c o , a b o u t a m il e
fr o m t h e C a r r i b e a n s e a , o n a n a r id s a n d y pl a i n A c c o r di n g .
to H u m b o l d t,
“ th e i n h a b it a n t s o f C u m a n a a r e v e r y p o lite ; it
m a y b e s a id th a t th e y a r e e xc e s s iv e ly s o T h er e i s n o t s o .
m u c h l ux ur y a m o n g th e m a s a t C a r a c a s ; th e i r h o u s e s , h o w
e v e r , a r e t o l e r a b ly w e ll fur n i s h e d T h ey a r e v er y a b s te m i o u s
. .
T h o s e d i n n e r s a n d fe s tiv a l s , whic h fo r m o n e o f t h e c h a r m s o f
s o ci e ty i n E u r o p e , a n d whic h , i n t h e r iti s h a n d F r e n c h c o l o B '
n i e s , a r e r e p e a t e d a l m o s t e v er y d a y , fr o m t h e fi r s t o f Ja n u a r y
I n 1 800, Hum b o l d t
im ated th e i nh abit an t s in Mex ico a t fo r ty nine to
es t -
th e s q uare l e ague i n G ua t em a l a for ty S i x ; i n P er u th i r t y t h ree ; i n Buen o s

- -
Ayr es ei gh t ; i n all S p an i s h A m eri c a t wen t y ei gh t

, ,
-
, , .
S O U T H AM E RICA .
to t h e la s t ofD e c e m b e r , a r e u n k n o w n t o t h e i n h abit a n ts o f
C u m a n a , a n d t h e o th e r p r o vi n c e s o f V e n e z ue l a .
“ T hi s t o w n h a s n o u b lic e s t a bli s h m e n t fo r t h e e d u c a ti o n o f
p
o u t h ; i t i s , th e r e fo r e , s u r p r i s i n g t o fi n d a n y k n o wl e d g e a m o n
y
i ts i n h a b it a n t s ; y e t, t h e r e i s s o m e i n fo r m a ti o n d i s s e m i n a te
a m o n g m a n y o f t h e C r e o l e s o f C u m an a T h ey a r e b ut s e l d o m
.
s e n t t o E ur o p e fo r t h ei r e d u c a t i o n ; t h e m o s t w e al thy r e c e iv e
it a t C a r a c a s , a n d t h e gr e a te r n u m b e r u n d e r s c h o o l m a s te r s ,
fr o m wh o m th e y l e a r n t h e S p a n i s h gr a m m a r , a r i t h m e tic , t h e
fir s t e l e m e n t s o f ge o m e t r y, d r a wi n g , a li ttl e L a ti n, a n d m u s ic .
I h a v e r e m a r k e d c o n s id e r a bl e t al en t, a pplic a ti o n , a n d go o d
c o nd uct in th e i r y o u th , a n d l es s viv a ci ty a n d v a n i ty th a n
a m o n g th o s e o f C a r a c a s N o t b e i n g s o r ic h a s th e l a tte r , t h e
.
C um a n e s e a r e b r o ught u p with p r i n cipl e s o f e c o n o m y a n d i n

d us tr y ; th er e a r e n o idl e r s a m o n g t h e m ; i n g e n e r a l , t h ey a r e
i n cli n e d to b u s i n e s s S o m e a pply th e m s elv e s to t h e m e c h a n i
.
c al a r t s ; o th e r s , t o c o m m e r c e T h ey h a v e a l s o a gr e a t p a r
.
ti a lity fo r n a vig a ti o n a n d t r a d i n g with t h e n e i h b o r i n g c o l o n i e s

o f o th e r n a ti o n s ; a n d b y t h e i r a ctivi ty a n g
p r u d e n c e , th ey
m a k e c o n s i d e r a b l e p r o fits wi t h s m a ll c a pi t a l s T h e i r a r ticl e s
.
o f e xp o r t a ti o n a r e c a ttl e , s m o k e d m e a t, a n d s a lt e d fi s h , whic h
c o m m o d iti e s th e y h a v e i n g r e a t a b u n d a n c e T w o p o un d s o f
.
b ee f ar e s o l d a t C u m a n a fo r t w o p e n c e h a l fp e n n y , a n d tw e nty
tw o p o u n d s o f s a lt m e a t a t fr o m 3 s 4 d t o 4 5 2 d . F i s h is n e v e r
. .
w ei gh e d th e r e : s o m e d a y s th e r e i s s u c h a q u a nti ty c a u ght by
th e fi s h e r m e n , t h a t t h e y giv e t e n , tw e lv e , o r fi fte e n p o u n d s
w e i ght fo r 5 d T h e p o o r 0 to t h e s e a s i d e with m a iz e, c a k es ,
.
a n d e gg s , a n d b ar t e r th e m o r fi s h Eg gs a r e th e s m a ll ch a n ge
.
i n C u m a n a , C a r a c a s , a n d o th e r p r o v i n c e s o f V e n e z u el a , wh e r e
c o pp e r c o i n i s un k n o w n , t h e s m all es t pi e c e in ci r c ul a ti o n b e i n g
a m ed i a r ea l, i n s il v e r , w o r th 2 ; d I f o n e go es i n to a s h o p t o
.
b uy s o m e thi n g w o r th l e s s t h a n 2 } d , t h e y giv e a s ch a n ge t w o
.
o r t h re e e ggs ; fo r a d o z e n o f e ggs t h e r e , a r e w o r th o n ly a
m ed i a r ea l . T hi s is a l s o th e p r ic e o f a m e as ur e o f exc ell e n t
m ilk , a b o u t a qu a r t A s h e e p i s s o ld fo r a d o ll ar , a fi n e t ur
.
k ey fo r 2 od o r 2 s , a fo wl fo r 5 d , a fa t c a p o n 7 5d t o 1 0d , a
. . . .
d u c k th e s a m e p r ic e G a m e a n d wil d fo wl a r e fr e q ue ntly s o l d
.
’
c h e a p e r t h a n b utch e r s m e a t ; a n d a ll t h o s e a r ticl e s a r e s til l
ch e a p e r i n t h e s m all t o wn s i n t h e i n te r i o r I li v d a t th e b es t .
a n d d e a r e s t h o t e l s i n C u m a n a , a t a d o ll a r p er a y , i n cl udi n g
m y s o n a n d s er v a n t T h ey g a v e u s fo r b r e a k fa s t, c o ld m e a ts,
.
fi s h , c h o c o l a t e , c o ffe e , te a , a n d S p a n i s h wi n e ; a n exc e ll e n t
d i n n e r , with S p a n i s h a n d F r e n ch wi n es c o ffe e , a n d liq ue ur s ;
in t h e e v e n i n g , c h o c o l a t e I w a s w ell lo d ge d a n d ligh te d I
. .
s h o ul d h a v e e xp e n d e d b ut h a l f th a t s u m , i f I h a d g o n e t o b o a r d
a n d l o dg e i n a fa m ily I n s h o r t, t h e r e is n o t a c o un t r y in th e
.
w o r l d , w h e r e o ne m a y liv e c h e a p e r th a n in th e p r o vi n c e o f
C u m an a A n exc ell e n t di n ne r m a y b e h a d th er e fo r 1 0d , n o t
. .
i n cl u d i n g wi ne , which d o es n o t c o s t m o r e th a n 5 d p er b o ttl e , .
to th o s e w h o b uy a qu a n tity o f i t P o o r p e op l e d r i n k p un ch ,
.
1 18 U NIVE R S A L T R A VE LLER .
C O L OM BI A .
i n fa l s e h o o d a n d d e c e i t T h e wo m en thi s t r a v e ll e r d e s c r i b e s
.
a s , u p o n th e wh o l e h a n d s o m e , s p r ightly , a n d pl e as i n g T h ey .
a r e u n i fo r m ly ki n d a n d a ff a b l e i n t h e i r m a n n e r s ; a n d w h a t
e v er fa ults a n E n gli s h m a n m ay fr e q u e n tl y o b s er v e in th e i r d o
m e s tic c o n d u ct , t h es e a r e n o t m o r e th a n m ay b e t r a c e d in t h e
m a n n er s o f o ld S p a i n I n th e m , th e S p a n i s h c h ar a c t e r a pp e a r s ,
.
p e r h a p s , wi th l e s s a lte r a ti o n th a n a m o n g th e m e n M D e p o n s . .
p a i n ts t h e m in s till m o r e V ivi d c o l o r s , s tyli n g t h e m m il d , te n

d e r , a n d s e d u ctiv e ; w ith j e t bl a ck h a i r , a l a b a s te r s ki n s , e y e s
l a r ge , a n d fi n e ly s h a p e d , a n d c ar n a ti o n lip s th ey a r e ge n er a l
ly b el o w t h e m i d dl e s iz e T h e i r a tti r e , h e s ay s , is r a th e r ele
.
ant . T h ey fee l a ki n d o f v a n ity o n b e i n g ta k e n fo r F r e n ch ,

u t, wh a t e v er r es e m bl a n c e th e r e m a y b e i n t h e d r e s s , th e r e i s
t o o lit tl e in t h e ga it, t h e s t e p , a n d to o littl e g r a c e , to p e r m i t th e
ill us i o n to s ub s i s t T h e i r e d u c a ti o n i s li m it e d to l e a r ni n g a
.
n u m b er o f p r a y e r s , r e a di n g b a d ly , s p e lli n g w o r s e , a n d pl a yi n g
by r o te a fe w tu n e s o n t h e gu i t a r a n d pi a n o fo r te T h e i r -
.
p r i n cip a l m o r n i n g o cc up a ti o n i s go i n g to m a s s , a n d a g r e a t
p o r ti o n o f th e r e s t o f th e d a y th e y p a s s a t th e i r wi n d o w s I n .
s pi te , h o w e v er
,
o f th e i r d e f e ctiv e e d u c a ti o n ,
a d d s t h e F r en c h
t r a v e ll e r , th e w o m e n o f C a r a c a s k no w h o w t o u n ite s o ci a l
m a n n er s with d e c e n t b e h a vi o r , a n d th e a r t o f c o q u e tr y wi t h
t h e m o d e s ty o f th e i r s ex I n thi s city, as i n m o s t o t h e r s , th er e
.
is a d e gr a d e d a n d a b a n d o n e d cl a s s M o r e t h a n tw o h un d r e d
.
u n fo r t u n a te s p as s t h e d ay c o v e r e d wi t h r a g s , i n t h e r e c e s s e s
o f r u i n s , a n d n e v e r go o ut b u t a t n i ght , t o d r a w fr o m vic e th e
g r o s s s u b s i s te n c e o f th e m o r r o w T h e i r d r e s s i s a whit e p e t
.
t ic o a t a n d v e il , (t h e d r e s s o f s l a v es , ) a ll r e s p e ct a bl e fe m a l e s
w e a r i n g b l a ck , with a p a s te b o a r d h a t c o v e r e d wi t h s ilk , to
-
whic h is a tta c h e d a t uft o f ti ns e l , a n d a r tifici a l fi o w er s .
T h e cl a s s o f d o m e s t ic s l a v e s i n C a r a c a s , s a y s M D e p o n s , is .
c o n s i d er a bl e A m a n thi n k s hi m s e l f r ich , o n ly i n p r o p o r ti o n
.
t o t h e n u m b er o f s l a v e s in h is h o u s e It i s n e c es s a r y t h a t h e
.
s h o u ld h av e a b o u t h i m fo u r t i m e s a s m a n y s e r v a n t s a s th e i r
w o r k r e qu i r e s ; with o ut whic h a littl e n es s is m a n i fe s ted , th a t
a nn o un c e s a p o v e r ty whic h a ll hid e a s w e ll a s t h e y c a n A
, .
w hit e w o m a n o f m o d er a te fo r t un e go e s t o m a s s o n ch ur c h
,
d a y s wi t h t w o fe m a l e n e g r o e s o r m u l a t to e s i n h e r s ui te t h o u g h
, ,
s h e d o e s n o t p o s s e s s i n o th er p r o p e r ty a n e q uiv a l e n t c a pi t a l .
T h o s e w h o a r e n o t o r i o us ly r ic h a r e fo ll o w e d by fo ur o r fi v e
s er v a n t w o m e n a n d th er e r e m a i n a s m a n y m o r e fo r e a c h
,
w hite o f t h e s a m e h o us e w h o g o e s to a n o th er c h u r ch T h e r e
. .
a r e fa m ili es i n C a r a c a s with tw e lv e a n d fi ft e e n fe m a l e s e r v a n ts ,
e xcl us iv e o f t h e fo o tm e n i n th e s e r vic e o f th e m e n .
It is p r o b a bl e th a t th e r e is n o t in th e wh o l e W e s t I n die s a
city wh er e t h e r e a r e s o m a n y fr ee d p e r s o n s , o r d e s c e n d a n t s
fr o m th e m in p r o p o r ti o n t o t h e o th e r cl a s s e s a s in C a r a c a s
, ,
.
T h e y th e r e e x e r ci s e a ll th o s e h a n dic r a fts th a t t h e white s

,
d e s pi s e E ve r y o n e w h o is a c a r p e n te r , j o i n e r , c a bi n e t m a k e r ,
.
-
m as o n bl a ck s m ith , l o ck s m it h t a il o r s h o e m a k er g o ld s m ith ,
, , , ,
& c , is , o r w a s a fr ee m a n
.
,
T h ey e xc e l i n n o n e o f th e s e tr a d e s ,
.
U NIVE R S A L T R A VE LLER . 1 19
TR A D ES PE OP L E .
— F E S TIV A L S .
b e c a us e l e a r n i n g th e m m e ch a n ic a lly th e y c o n s t a n tly o ff e n d ,
a ga i n s t t h e i r p r i n cipl e s B e s id e s i n d o l e n c e w h ic h i s in th e ir
.
, ,
n a t u r e e x t i n g u i s h e s i n th e m t h a t e m u l at i o n to w h ic h t h e a r t s
,
’ ’
o w e a ll th e i r p r o gr e s s Y e t, th e c a r p e n ter s a n d m a s o n s .
w o r k is t o l e r a bly r e gul a r b u t c a bi n e t m a ki n g is s ti ll i n i t s 1 n -
fa n cy . A ll th e s e a r ti s a n s d e p r e s s e d by a n i n d i ffer e n c e th a t ,
s e e m s m o r e p e c uli a r t o t h e i r r a c e , b u t g en e r a lly a t t a ch es t o
th e s o il t h e y i n h a bit a n d t h e n a ti o n wi t h whic h th e y a r e a s s o
,
c i a t e d w o r k b u t v e r y li ttl e ; a n d wh a t a pp e a r s in s o m e d e
,
g r e e c o n t r a dict o r y is th a t th e y w o r k m u c h c h e a p e r th a n E u
, ,
r o p e a n a r ti fi c e r s T h e y exi s t b ut b y m e a n s o f th e g r e a t e s t
.
s o b r i e ty a n d i n th e m id s t o f a ll s o r ts o f p r iv a ti o n s
,
l n gen e .
r al o v e r l o a d e d with c h il d r e n th e y liv e h e a p e d t o e t h er i n g
m i s e r a b l e s h e ll s w h e r e th e y h a v e fo r t h e i r w h o l e b e d n o thi n g
, ,
b ut a n o x hi d e a n d fo r s u s t e n a n c e o n ly th e p r o vi s i o n s o f t h e
-
, ,
c o un tr y T h e e xc e p ti o n s a r e v e r y r a r e
. .
I n thi s s t a t e o f p o v er ty n o ki n d o f w o r k c a n b e r e q u i r e d , ,
b u t th ey i n s t a n tly d e m a n d a n a d v a n c e T h e s m ith n e v e r h a s .
T h e c a r p e n t e r n e v er h a s w o o d — e v e n fo r
'
e i t h e r ir o n o r c o a l .
a t a bl e T h e y m us t h a v e m o ne y t o b uy s o m e A ll h a v e a l
. .
w a y s th e w a n t s o f a fa m ily whic h h e w h o o r d er s th e i r w o r k ,
m u s t s a ti s fy T h us y o u b e gi n by tyi n y o u r s el f t o th e w o r k
.
g
m a n y o u e m pl o y a n d m a ki n g y o u r s el d e p e n d a n t u p o n h i m
,
.
It i s n o l o n g er p o s s i b l e t o th r e a te n h is s l o th by a p p lyi n g to a n
o th e r wi th wh o m b e s id e s t h e v e r y s a m e i n c o n v e n i e n c e w o u l d
, , ,
t a k e pl a c e T h e o n ly r e s o ur c e t h e n i s th a t o f p r e s s i n g a n d
.
, ,
s u p e r i n t e n di n g t h e w o r k ; a n d i n s pi t e o f a ll th e s e a tt e n t i o n s , ,
t h e r e a r e a l w a y s i n di s p o s i t i o n s j o u r n e y s fe s tiv a l s whic h e x , , ,
h a u s t th e p a ti e n c e o f t h e m o s t p h l e g m a tic O n e is th e n v e r y
b a d ly o r a s s u r e “v v er y s l o wly s e r v e d
.
/
.
, , ,
T h e f es t i v a ls o f t h e R o m i s h c a l e n d a r a r e s o m ul ti p li e d a t C a
r a c a s t h a t th e r e a r e v e r y fe w d a y s i n t h e y e a r i n which s o m e
, ,
s a i n t o r vi r gi n d o e s n o t cl a i m a t u r n i n t h e d e v o ti o n a l c e l eb r a
t i o n s o f th e n a tiv es T h e m o s t b r illi a n t a c ts o f th e s e fe s tiv a l s a r e
.
t h e p r o c es s i o n s whic h a lw a y s t a k e pl a c e in t h e a fte r n o o n
,
.
T h e s a i n t a s l a r ge a s li fe is r ichly d r e s s e d
,
He is c a r r i e d o n, .
a t a bl e v e r y h a n d s o m e ly d e c o r a t e d a n d fo ll o w e d o r p r e c e d e d
, ,
by s o m e o t h er s a i n t o f th e s a m e c h u r c h l es s s u m pt u o u s ly ,
a do r ne d A n u m b e r o f fl a gs a n d c r o s s e s o p e n th e p r o c e s s i o n
. .
T h e m e n w a lk t w o a b r e a s t E a c h o f t h e p r i n cip a l p e r s o n s .
h as in h is h a n d a w ax t a p e r ; t h e n c o m e t h e m u s ic t h e cl e r gy , ,
th e civil a u th o r i ti e s a n d l a s tly th e w o m e n s ur r o u n d e d wi t h a
, ,
b a r r i e r o f b a y o n e ts T h e tr a i n is a lw a y s v e r y n u m e r o u s. .
T h e fr a m es o f a ll th e wi n d o w s in t h e s t r e e ts th r o u gh whic h th e ,
p r o c e s s i o n m o v es a r e o r n a m e nte d wi t h h a n gi n gs fl o a ti n g in
,
t h e a ir whic h giv e t o t h e wh o l e q u a rt e r a n a ir o f fe s ti vi ty t h a t
,
e xhil a r a t e s T h e wi n d o w s th e m s e lv e s ar e a d o r n e d with
.
w o m e n w h o c r o w d to th e m fr o m a ll p ar t s o f th e city to e nj o y
,
t n s e xhi b i t i o n F i r e w o r k s c o n c er ts , a n d d a n c e s c o n cl u d e,
i .
-
, ,
as el s e w h e r e th es e pi o us s o l e m n iti e s
, .
C O L O MB IA .
Th e p r i nc ip a l p u bli c z m u s em en ts of
C a r a c a s b e s id es th e th e ,
a t r e , a r e th r ee t e n n i s c o ur t s a c o ck pit a n d a fe w billi a r d t a
,
- -
,
bl es t h e l a tt e r a r e n o t m u c h fr e q ue n te d G a m b li n g th e un i .
,
v er s a l p a s s i o n o f t h e S p a n i a r d s is u n d er s o m e s li ght c h e ck
'
,
fr o m th e p o lic e r e gu l a ti o n s h a vi n g b ee n m a d e i n 1 8 00 fo r
s u pp r e s s i n g th e p r a ctic e B ut fo r th e s e th r e e o r fo u r y e a r s ,
.
s a y s M D ep o n s , it h a s b e e n o n ly t h e p o o r w h o h a v e b e en
.
w a tch e d i m p r i s o n e d a n d fi n e d by th e p o lic e fo r g a m i n g
, , .
T h o s e a b o v e th e c o mm o n r a n k h a ve a t a ci t p e r m i s s i o n t o r ui n
e a c h o th e r a t pl a y with o ut th e m a gi s tr a te s t a ki n g o ffen c e a t
,
’
it T h e S p a n i a r d l o v e s o n ly t h e pl a y th a t r ui n s n o t t h e pl ay
.
,
w hic h a m u s es — I n E u r o p e r e m ar k s M H u m b o l d t wh e r e n a
.
,
.
,
ti o n s d e c i d e t h ei r q u ar r e l s i n th e pl a i n s , w e cli m b t h e m o un
‘
t a i n s in s e a r c h o f s o litud e a n d lib er ty I n t h e N e w N o r ld th e .
,
C o r d ill e r a s a r e i n h a bite d to th e h e i ght o f fe e t ; a n d
thith er m e n c a r r y with th e m th e i r p o li tic a l d i s s en s i o n s a n d
th e i r lit tl e a n d h a t e ful p a s s i o n s G a m i n g h o u s es a r e e s t a b
.
lis h e d o n th e r i d ge o f t h e A n d e s , wh er e v er t h e d i s c o v e r y o f
m i n e s h a s le d to th e fo un d a ti o n o f t o wn s a n d in th o s e v a s t
s o litu d e s a l m o s t a b o v e t h e r e gi o n s o f t h e cl o u d s i n t h e m i ds t
, ,
o f o bj e c ts fitt e d t o e l e v a t e t h e th o u gh ts t h e n e w s o f a d e c o r a ,
ti o n o r a titl e r e fus e d by th e c o ur t o fte n di s tur b s th e h a ppi n ess

,
o f fa m ili e s
T h e R o m a n C a th o li c r elig i o n p r e v a il s th r o u gh o u t a ll th e
S S
p a n is h s e ttl e m e n ts in o uth A m er ic a , a n d d e v o u t h o m a ge is
p a i d t o t h e c o u rt of Rome . e n c H
e th e g r e a t m a s s o f th e p e o
p l e a r e k e pt i n p r o fo u n d i g n o r a n c e o f a ll o th e r r e ligi o u s s y s
t e m s , a n d t h e i r i gn o r a n c e a n d c r e d ulity is t a k e n a d v a n t a ge o f
by a n a r t ful p r i e s t h o o d I n n o th in gis thi s m o r e a pp a r e n t t h a n
.
i n th e n u m b e r o f b u l ls , which , u n d e r th e o ld s y s t e m o f g o v er n
m e n t, w e r e a n n u a lly s o ld , a n d which , it is b eli e ve d , c o n t i n ue t o
b e s o l d a t th e p r e s e n t d a y T h es e bu ll s w e r e o r i gi n a lly d e
.
s ig n e d fo r th o s e S
p a n i a r d s w h o e n ga g e d i n th e w a r s a ga i n s t
th e i n fi d e ls . T i m e , h o w e v e r , whic h a lte r s o r p e r fe cts e v e r y
n g, h a s c a u s e d t h e p o p e s to giv e t o th e s e b u ll s V i r t u es which
thi
“
t h ey d id n o t p o s s es s . A t thi s d a y , fo ur ki n d s o f b ull s a r e a o
k n o wl e d ge d , o f w h ic h w e s h a ll t a k e n o tic e o f b u t o n e— T h e
b u l l f or th e d ea d .
T h i s i s a s p e ci e s o f tick e t fo r a d m i s s i o n i n t o P a r a d i s e It .
e n a bl es o n e to c l e a r th e d e v o u r i n g fl a m e s o f p u r ga t o r y , a n d
c o n d u cts di r e ctly to th e ab o d e s o f th e b l e s s e d B u t o n e o f .
th es e b ull s s er v e s fo r a s o ul T h e r efo r e, t h e i n s t a n t a p a n i ar d
. S
e xpi r e s , h is r e l a t i o n s s e n d to th e t r e a s u r y t o b uy a b u ll fo r th e
d e a d , o n which i s w r itten th e n a m e o f t h e d e c e a s e d Wh e n .
th e fa m ily o f th e d e p a r t e d is s o p o o r a s to b e un a bl e to p a y fo r
th e bu ll , th a t i s t o s a y , wh e n th e y ar e r e d u c e d t o th e m o s t a h
j e c t m i s e r y ,
t w o o r th r e e o f i ts m e m b e r s d e t a ch th e m s e lv e s a nd
g o b e gg i n g th r o u g h t h e s t r e e t s t o o bt a i n t h e m e a n s o f m a ki n g
t h e p ur c h a s e . I f t h e i r z e a l is n o t c r o w n e d with s u cc e s s , th ey
s h e d t e a r s a n d utter s h r i e k s o f l am e n t a ti o n, exp r e s s iv e l es s o f
1 22 U N IV E R S A L T R A V ELL E R
C O LOM BIA .
“T h e tr ees a r e r a i s e d fr o m s e e d , whic h is s o w n un d e r t h e “
s h a d e o f th e c o r a l t r e e , o r t h e b a n a n a a n d th e y d o n o t c o m e
,
i n to b e ari n g u n til s ix o r s e v e n y e a r s o ld T h e i r c ultiv a ti o n .
d o e s n o t c a ll fo r a n y gr e a t a pplic a ti o n o f l a b o r ; a n d wh e n
th e t r ee s a r e o n c e i n a p r o d u ctiv e s t a te th ey r e qu i r e b u t littl e
,
a tt e n ti o n b ey o n d th a t n e c e s s ar y fo r m e r ely c o ll e cti n g t h e
pro
duc e .
C a c a o is p r i n cip a lly us e d a fter h a vi n g b e e n m a d e i n to c ak es ,

t o whic h t h e n a m e o f c h o c o l a t e i s giv e n T h e m e t h o d a n ci en t
.
ly e m pl o y e d b y t h e I n d i a ns i n m a ki n g t h e s e c a k e s, w as s im
ply t o r o a s t th e s e e d s i n e a r th e n p o ts a n d a fter c le a r in t h e m
,
fr o m t h e h us k s which by r e a s o n o f t h e h e a t t m p lo y e c o u ld
,
b e e a s ily r e m o v e d , t h e n a k e d s e e ds w e r e b r uis e d b e tw e e n t w o
s t o n e s a n d m a d e u p wi t h t h e h a n d s i n t o c a k e s
,
T h e p r o ce s s .
a t p r e s e n t u s e d b y E u r o p ea n s d o e s n o t d i ffe r g r e a tly fr o m
th a t j us t d e s c r ib e d ; m o r e c ar e is t a k e n in gr i n d i n g t h e s e e d s
a fte r t h e y a r e r o a s t e d s o a s t o c o n v e r t th e m i n t o a p a s t e whic h
,
i s p er fe c tly s m o o th a n d s o m e fl a v o r i n g i n g r e di e n ts a r e a d d e d ,
,
a cc o r di n g t o t h e t a s te o f t h e p e o pl e w h o a r e to c o ns u m e t h e
c h o c o l a t e Cl o v e s a n d ci n n a m o n a r e m u ch u s e d fo r thi s p u r
.
p o s e b y t h e S p a n i ar d s o th er a r o m a tic s a n d e v e n p er fu m e s , ,
s uc h a s m u s k a n d a m b er gr i s h a v e s o m e ti m es b e e n a dd e d ;
,
b ut t h e p r i n cip a l fl a v o r i n g i n g r e di e n t u s e d with c a c a o i s v a n il
l a a pl a n t w h ich p r o d u c e s a lo n fl a tt is h p o d t h e s ee d s o f
, ,
whic h h a v e a n a r o m a tic t a s te a n a fr a g r a n t s m ell , lik e th a t

,
o f s o m e o f t h e fi n e r b a l s a m s h e i gh t e n e d with m u s k T h e i n ti
ma te m ixt ur e o f th e s e s ub s ta n c es h av i n g b e en e ffe cte d t h e
.
wh o l e i s p ut wh il e y e t h o t, i n t o tin m o u l d s wh e r e it h ar d e n s
, ,
in c o o li n g a n d i n thi s fo r m i f p r e s er v e d fr o m th e a ir it will
, , ,
k e e p go o d fo r a c o ns i d e r a b l e ti m e: Ch o c o l a t e i s n o t v er y
m u c h c o n s um e d in E n gl a n d ; it i s i n g r e a t er e s t ee m in F r a n c e ;
it fo r m s t h e o r d i n a r y b r e a k fa s t in S p a i n ; a n d in M e xic o a c ,
c o r di n to H um b o l d t it is n o t c o n s i d e r e d a n o bj e ct o f l ux ur y ,
,
”
b ut r a t e r o f p r i m e n e c e s s ity .
Cow T r ee o r M il k T r e e — T h e p r o vi s i o n o f P r o vid e n c e fo r
.
th e w a n t s o f m a n a r e d i s c o v e r a bl e i n e v e r y c o un t r y o n e a r t h ,
a n d pl a c e s a r e o ft e n r e nd e r e d h a b i t a b l e , b y s o m e p e c u li a r p r o
vi s io n , wi th o u t whic h h uma n e xi s te n c e a t l e a s t w o u l d b e i m
p o s s i b l e A l th o u gh thi s is n o t t r ue t o th e ext e n t o f th e fo r e
.
o i n g r e m a r k in r e s p e c t to t h e p r o vi n c e s o f V e n e z u e l a , wh er e
g
t h e m ilk tr e e i s fo u n d , y e t t h e r e m a r k s o f H
u m b o l d t r e s p e cti n g
it s s itu a t i o n a n d a pp e a r a n c e will s e r v e to s h ow b y wh a t m e a n s
a n d c o n t r iv a n c es a b e n e fi c e n t P r o vid e n c e c a n a d m i n is t e r t o
th e n e c e s s iti e s o f th e c r e a t u r e s o f h is p o w e r .
On th e b a r r e n fl a n k o f a r o ck , s a y s
’
H
u m b o ldt, g r o w s a t r ee
wit h d r y a n d l ea t h e r lik e l e a v e s ; its l ar ge w o o dy r o o ts c a n
-
F o r s e v e r a m o n th s
s c a r c e ly p e n e t r a te i n t o t h e s t o n y s o il l .
o f th e y e a r , n o t a s i n gl e s h o w e r m o i s t e n s its fo l i a ge I s
t .
b r a n ch es a pp e a r d e a d a n d d r i e d y e t, w h e n th e tr u n k is
pi e r c ed , th er e flo w s fr o m i t a s w eet a nd n o ur is hi n g m i lk It i s .
U N IVE R S A L T R A VE LLE R . 1 23
BOGO T A ;
i
a t s un r s e th a t thi s v e g e t a bl e fo unt a i n i s m o s t a b u n d a n t T h e .
b l a ck s a n d t h e n a tiv e s ar e th e n t o b e s e e n h a s t e n i n g fr o m a ll
u t e r s f u r n i s h e d with l a r g e b o wl s t o r e c e iv e th e m ilk whic h
q a r ,
g r o w s y e ll o w a n d thick e n s a t i t s s u r f a c e S o.m e e m pty th e i r

Ho wl s u n d er th e t r e e, whil e o t h e r s c a r r y h o m e t h e j u ic e fo r
t h e i r chil d r e n . T hi s fi n e tr e e r is e s lik e t h e b r o a d l e a v e d s ta r
a ppl e . I ts o bl o n g a n d p o i n t e d l e a ves to u gh a n d a lte r n a te ar e
, ,
m a r k e d by l a t e r a l r i b s ; s o m e o f th e m a r e te n i n c h e s l o n g .
W e d id n o t s e e th e fl o we r T h e fr u it is s o m e wh a t fl es hy a n d
.
,
c o n ta i n s a n u t s o m e ti m es tw o T h e m ilk o bt a i n e d by in c is
, , ,
i o ns m a d e i n th e t r un k , is gl uti n o u s t o l e r a b ly thick fr e e fr o m
, ,
a ll a c r i m o ny , a nd o f a n a g r eea bl e a n d b a l m y s m ell It w a s o f
.
fe r e d t o us in t h e s h e ll o f t h e c a la b a s h t r e e -
W e dr an k a c o n
.
s id er a b le q u a n tity o f it i n th e e v e n i n g b e fo r e w e w e n t t o b e d ,
a n d v e r y e a r ly i n t h e m o r n i n g ,
wi t h o u t e xp e r i e n ci n g th e
s li ght es t i nj ur i o u s e ffec t . T h e vi s c o s ity o f t hi s m ilk a l o n e
r e n d e r s it s o m e wh a t di s a gr e e a bl e . T h e n e g r o es a n d fr e e 1a
b o r e r s d r i nk it, dippi n g i n t o it th e i r m a i z e o r c as s a v a b r e a d -
.
B og o ta — T hi s i s th e c a pit a l o f C o l o m bi a , th o ugh n o t t h e
m o s t p o p ul o u s ci ty . It is s itu a t e d i n a s p a ci o us a n d fe r ti l e
pl a i n o n th e m o s t e a s ter ly e d ge o f t h e A n d es , a t a n e l e v a ti o n
o f u p w a r d s o f 8 000 fe e t a b o ve t h e l e v e l o f t h e s e a T h e p op .
ul a tio n i s a b o u t T h e c o s t um e o f th e p e o pl e is r e m a r k
a bl e , p a r t ic u l a r ly th a t o f th e fe m a l e s T h e r e is n o d i s ti n cti o n
.
b e tw e e n r ic h a n d p o o r , i n th e s tyl e o f w a lki n d r e s s The-

.
m a n till a , bl a ck o r light bl u e , m a d e (1 la m od e a g n o l e, is
w o r n ; a pi e c e o f bl u e cl o th e n v e l o p s th e h e a d , a n fr e q ue n tly
c o n c e a l s th e wh o l e o f t h e fe a tu r e s e xc e pt t h e e y es thi s r e a c h
es t o t h e w a i s t, a n d th e wh o l e is s ur m o u n te d with a b r o a d
.
b r i m m e d b e a v e r h a t T hi s i s g e n e r a lly a ll o w e d t o b e a p r e
.
p o s ter o n s a n d u n b e c o m i n g d r es s ; b ut a s y e t, n o fa s hi o n a bl e
l a d y h a s h a d t h e c o ur a ge t o s e t a n e w s tyl e , fo r th e e x a m pl e
o f h e r c o un t r y w o m e n T h ey a r e s e d ul o us ly c a r e ful to d e ck
.
th e i r fe e t in t h e m o s t b e c o m i n g m a n n er , a n d with s t ud i e d c o .
q u e tr y , a s th e y a r e i n ge n e r a l w e ll fo r m e d a n d e xt r e m ely s m a ll .
T h e i r s te p is v er y p e c uli a r , a ll fr o m hip to a n kl e , with o ut

b e n di n g th e k n ee , a n d with a s id el o n g m o ti o n o f t h e b o dy .
T h e l o w er cl a s s e s a r e g en e r a lly b a r e fo o te d , e xc e pt t h e p e a s
a n tr y o f t h e pl a i n s , w h o w e a r a ki n d o f R o m a n s a n d a l , m a d e
o f th e fib r es o f a t r ee .T h e y w e a r lik e wi s e a full l a r ge m a n tl e,
c a ll e d r oa n a o r r o qu il la , m a d e o f th e cl o th o f th e c o un tr y t h e
h e a d p a s s e s th r o ugh a h o l e i n th e c e n t r e , a n d t h e r o q u i lla fa ll s
lo o s e ly a n d g r a c e fu lly o v e r th e s h o ul d er s , c o m pl e t ely c o v er i n g
th e bo dy , a n d c o n c e a li n g t h e a r m s S
o m e o f th e fe m a l e s a s
.
s u m e a v e r y p e c u li a r g a r b a p e t tic o a t o f S
p a n i s h b r o wn s t uff;
wi t h a m a n till a o f white k e r s ey m e r e , a b l a c k b e a v e r h a t, a n d
r o un d t h e w a i s t, a b r o a d b l a ck l e a th er n gi r dl e o n e e n d o f
, ,
w hich h a n g s d o wn fr o m t h e hip ne a rly t o th e a n kl e T h e y .
a r e c a ll e d b ea t es , a n d a tti r e th e m s e l v e s i n t hi s m a nn e r fo r
many r e as o ns , s uc h a s th e c o mm a n d s o f a c o n fe s s o r , th e s ic k
1 24 U N IVE R S A L T R A VE LLER .
C O L OMBIA .
n es s o f a h u s b an d , fa t h e r , o r a ny o th er r el a tiv e ; b ut by m a ny
it is w o r n m er e ly fr o m th e d e s i r e o f a ttr a cti n g a tten ti o n .
Th e Co lom bi a n s h a ve m a n y r ep as ts d ur in g th e d ay A t s e v en.
i n th e m o r n i n g , th ey h a v e c h o c o l a te a t ten , a m e a l d f s o u p ,
e ggs , &c . th ey di n e a t tw o , t a k e c h o c o l a te a g a i n a t fi v e, a n d
s u p a t a n e a r ly h o u r .F r o m a b o u t th r e e t o h al f p a s t fo ur ,
th ey t a k e th ei r s i es ta , d ur i n g whic h ti m e all th e s h o p s a r e s hu t,
th e s t r ee ts d e s e r te d , a n d th e wh o l e city i s i n p r o fo un d s il e n c e .
B us i n e s s is c a r r i e d o n fr o m n i n e till h a l f p as t o n e , a n d fr o m
h a l f p a s t fo ur till h a l f p a s t fi ve E v er y h o u s e h as s ilv e r o b
.
l e t s , i n whic h th e w a te r i s h a n d e d r o un d to th e gu e s ts N a p i ri s .
a r e n o t u s e d , a n d t h e t a bl e li n e n is c o ar s e It is th e c us t o m
.
to w a s h h a n d s a ft e r di n n e r ; th en s m o ki n g is i n t r o d u c e d Th e .
s e r v a n ts ar e g e n e r a lly fe m a l e s v e r y s l u tti s h a n d d i r ty , o f a
M
.
r a c e b e tw e e n t h e I n di a n s a n d u l a tt o e s T h er e a r e v er y fe w
.
m a l e d o m e s tic s , a s a ll t h e a bl e m e n w er e t a k e n o ff fo r th e
s u pply o f th e a r m i e s . T h e e m a n cip a ti o n o f s l a v e s h as b een
B
v e r y g r e a t a t o go t a , a n d b ut fe w r em a i n .
B o go t a i s s u bj e ct t o a d r e a d fu l n u i s a n c e ; e v e r y S a t ur d a y,
th e p o o r r u s h i n t o th e t o w n a s i f t o t a k e it by a s s a u lt ; th e y b e
s i e g e e v e r y d o o r , a n d , to g a i n a d m itt a n c e , e n d e a v o r t o e xcite
c o m p a s s i o n by t h e e xp o s u r e o f th e m o s t r e v o lti n g in fi r m ities .
O ld m e n , le d by chil d r e n , fo r m n um er o us g r o u p s , w hich ,
th r o u gh o u t th e d ay , o b s tr u ct th e s tr ee t s , a n d e v e n bl o ck up th e
th r e s h o ld s o f th e h o u s e s .
B
T h e g e n er a l r o u ti n e o f th e d ay a t o go t a c o mm e n c e s w ith
m a s s , whic h is a t te n d e d by fe m a l e s a n d o ld m en T h e m en i n
.
g e n er a l ,
w e a r e t o ld ,
d o n o t g i v e th e m s e lv e s m u ch t r o u bl e o n
thi s s c o r e , u n l e s s th ey h a v e s o m e p a r ti c ul a r o bj e ct in V i e w,
m o r e a ttr a ctiv e th a n d e v o ti o n T h e gr e a te r p ar t o f th e d a y,
.
th e l a di e s l o u n g e o n th e i r s o fa s A t h a l f p a s t fi v e , th ey a t
.
a
t en d th e a la m ed a , wh e n c e th ey r e tur n t o r e c e iv e Vi s its till b e

’
t w e en n i n e a n d te n o cl o ck , a t whic h h o ur th ey r e ti r e T er ta .
li as , o r e v e n i n g p ar ti es , b a ll s , m a s q u e r a d e s , a n d th e n u m er o u s
r e ligi o u s p r o c es s i o n s , a r e t h e chi e f a m u s e m e n t s .
A s far a s I h a d a n o p p o r tu n ity o f j u d gi n g , s a y s th e a u th o r
o f L e tte r s fr o m C o l o m b i a , B
o g o t a is t h e m o s t j u s tly c e le b r a te d
pl a c e in t h e wh o l e r e p ublic fo r b e a u ti ful w o m e n T h e ch a n g e .
is th e m o r e s t r iki n g , a fte r th e hid e o u s p o p ul a ti o n o n e m ee ts

with in m a ny o f t h e t o w ns a n d V ill a ge s , i n t h e e a t e xte n t o f
c o u n tr y b e tw ee n th e t w o c a pit a l s It is n o t r o m a fe w i h
.
s t a n c es o n e i s le d to fo r m s u c h a n o pi n i o n , th e m aj o r ity o f t h e
fe m al e s ex h e r e b e i n g fa i r ly e n titl e d t o thi s r e p u t a ti o n Fro m .
th e c o o l n e s s o f th e cli m a te , th e i r c o m p l e xi o n s a r e n a t ur a lly
fa i r a n d ver y cl e a r . T h e y i n h e r it, a t th e s a m e ti m e, th e fi n e,
e xp r e s s iv e d ar k e y e s , a n d r e gul a r fe a t u r es o f t h e S a n i s h
p
w o m e n , a lth o ugh p a r ta ki n g b u t in a s li ght d e gr e e o f th e i r ele
g a n t fi gu r e s , o wi n g to th e i r c a r el e s s m a n n er o f d r e s s m g a n d
se tti n g o ff th e i r p er s o n s T h ey h a v e, h o w e ver , p r e tty fe et, a n d
.
a n e a s y c ar r i a ge . F r o m th e s up er i or ity o f th e i r p er s o n al a p
P R ODUCTI ON S .
“
R LI G I ON
E .
m a n u fa ct u r e . B o th of d e s i gn e d, i f th e r e b e n o fi r e,
th e s e are
t o w a r m t h e a p a r t m e n ts , a n d to c o n c e a l t h e i n e q u a liti e s o f th e
fl o o r , wh er e un fo r tu n a t e ly , th e n e glige n c e o f th e s er v a n t s p e r
m it s t h e m o s t l o a th s o m e i n s e ct s t o s w ar m i n i m m e n s e n um
b e rs S o m e p e r s o n s c o v er th e w a ll s o f th e i r ch a m b e r s with
.
d y e d p a p e r ; a n d n u m b er s h a v e g a r l a n d s o f fl o w er s a n d g e n ii
d r a w n u p o n th e m , i n a s tyl e alik e i n dic a tiv e o f t h e b a d ta s te
o f th e p a i n t e r a n d h is e m pl o y e r T h e fur n itur e is s i m pl e , a n d
.
u s ua lly c o n s i s t s o f n o thi n m o r e th a n t w o s o fa s c o v e r e d with

g
c o tto n , t w o s m a ll t a bl e s , a e w le a th e r n ch a i r s , a fter th e fas hi o n
o f th e fi ft e e n th c e n t u r y , a l o o ki n g gl a s s , a n d th r e e l a m p s s us
p e n d e d fr o m th e c e ili n g T h e b e d i s to l er a bly w ell o r n a
.
me n te d , b u t fe a th er s ar e n e v e r u s e d ; it i s fo r m e d o f tw o w o o l
m a tt r e s s e s. With s o m e s light d i ffer e n c e , a ll t h e h o u s e s r e
s e m bl e e a c h o th e r ; n o thi n g s e r v e s t o d i s ti n g ui s h th o s e o f th e
m i n i s t e r s , a n d it w o u l d b e d i ffic u lt to r e c o gn iz e t h e P r es id e n t s ,
’
w e r e it n o t fo r t h e gu a r d a t th e e n t r a n c e .
T h e s h o p s a r e c r o wd e d t o geth e r , di r ty , a n d d a r k ; th e o n ly
a d m i s s i o n fo r d a yli h t i s by t h e d o o r T h e s e, h o w e v e r , a r e
.
p la c e s o f r e s o r t fo r t e idl e S e a t e d up o n h i s c o u n t e r , s m o k
.
i n g i n c e s s a n tly , a n d givi n g l a c o n ic a n s w e r s t o h is c u s to m er s , ’
t h e C o l o m bi a n m e r c h a n t i n m a n y r e s p e c ts r e s e m bl e s th o s e o f
S m y r n a o r A l epp o B
o g o t a c a n n o t b o a s t o f te n m e r ch a n ts ,
.
w h o c an c o m m an d pi a s tr e s , n o r o f fi v e i n divi d u a l s
livi n g u p b n a r e v e n ue o f th a t a m o unt T h e m o s t c o m m o n .
i n c o m e s a r e fr o m fi ve to pi a s tr es A l m o s t e v e r y i n h a .
bit a n t (n o t i n t h e e m pl o y m e n t o f go v e r n m en t, in th e ch ur ch ,
o r i n t h e a r m y , ) is a s h o pk e e p er .
T h e p r i n cip a l a g r i cu l tu r a l p C o l o m bi a ar e th e
r o d u ct i o n s o f
c a c a o o r ch o c o l a te t r e e,
,
i n di go ,
c o tto n , c o ffe e s u g a r t o b a cc o , , ,
m a iz e, p o t a t o e s ,
S e v e r a l o f th e s e a r e r a i s e d
i n gr e a t a b u n d a n c e ; b ut a g r ic u ltur e , s kill a n d e nt e r p r i s e ar e , ,
s o ge n e r a lly l a cki n g , th a t n o t a th o u s a n d th p a r t o f th e p r o d u c
ti o n s wh ic h e x ub er a n t n a tur e w o u ld gl a d ly yi e ld , a r e r a i s e d .
P r e vi o us t o th e y e a r 1 8 25 a m illi o n o f a c r e s w er e g r a n te d t o
,
a L o n d o n c o m p a n y , by th e C o l o m bi a n g o v er n me n t w hic h ,
u n d er t o o k t o s e n d o ut e m igr a n t s t o s e ttl e t h e t r a ct I n th e .
a b o v e y e a r 1 9 1 p er s o n s l e ft S c o tl a n d fo r th a t o b j e ct ; b ut th e y
p r o v e d un q u a lifi e d fo r th e u n d e r t a ki n g a n d by th e i r w a n t o f ,
s kill a n d e n t e r p r i s e , a dd e d t o t h e h a b it s o f i n te m p e r a n c e o n
th e p a r t o f m a n y b r o u ght a h e a vy l o s s u p o n th e a ss o ci a ti o n
,
.
“W e tr u s t ” o b s e r v e s L o u d o n “th a t t h e s u cc e s s o f th is w i s e ‘
, ,
”
,
a n d b e n e vo l e n t exp e r i m e n t i s r e t a r d e d o n ly .
T h e R om a n C a th o li c r elig i o n i s th e es t a bli s h ed r eli g i on o f A
C o l o m bi a , a n d th e s y s te m i s h e ld i n th e hi gh e s t v e n e r a ti o n .
T h e n u m b e r o f e ccl e s i a s tic s o f a ll gr a d e s i s n ea r ly s e ve n t ee n
,
h u n dr e d o f n u n s , s e v e n h un d r e d a n d fi fty , with a b o u t d o u bl e
th e l a tt e r n um b er o f n o vic es i n tw e n ty th r e e c o n v e n t s The -
.
n um b e r o f s a i n t d a y s a n d feas t d a y s , (i n cl u di n g S un d ays ) .
B R A Z IL .
a m o un s t to o n e h un d r e d a n d e ighty M a ny o f th e s e d ay s a r e .
c e l eb r a te d with gr e a t p o m p b ut th a t whic h t a k e s p r e c e d e n c e
,
o f all o th e r s is C o r p u s C h r i s ti T hi s is an n o u n c e d th e p r e .
c e di n g e v e ni n g by a r tifici a l fi r e w o r k s A t e a ch c o r n e r o f -
.
t h e gr a n d s qu ar e th r o u gh whic h t h e p r o c e s s i o n is to p a s s a r e
, ,
e r e c te d fo u r r ic hly o r n a m e n t e d a lt a r s whil e by a s i n gul ar ,
m ixtu r e o f t h e s a c r e d a n d p r o fa n e m a ts t l e c oc a g n e, p u pp e t ,
s h o w s a n d a gr e a t n u m b e r o f c a ges fu ll o f r a r e a n d c u r i o u s
,
a n i m als a r e r a n ge d o n a ll s i d e s T h e r ej o ici n g a n d g a m e s
”
.
,
c e a s e th e m o m e n t th e b ell is h e a r d a nn o un ci n g th e a pp r o a c h
o f t h e p r o c es s i o n Ev e r y o n e t a k e s o ff h i s h at a n d k n eel s
.
d o w n i n t h e s t r ee t s .
A t th e h e a d o f th e p r o c e s s i o n a r e c h a r i o t s d r a ge d a l o n g by
. m e n ; i n o n e i s ki n D a vi d wit h t h e h ea d o f c li a th i n h is
,
h a n d ; i n a n o t h e r s th e r ; i n a t hi r d M o r d e c a i ; J o s e ph n e xt
, ,
m a k e s h is a pp e ar a n c e u p o n a h o r s e r ichly c a p a r i s o n e d a n d ,
fo ll o w e d by a gr e a t n u m b e r o f gu a r d s ; th e s e h o w e v e r a r e , ,
o n ly m o u n t e d o n p a s t eb o a r d ch a r g er s A ll th e s e p e r s o n a tes
g0
.
‘
a r e t h e child r e n o f th e p r i n cip a l i n h a bit a n ts o f t h e ci ty .
o bt a i n th e h o n o r o f a cti n g a p ar t i n thi s i m p o s i n g s p e ct a cl e i s ,
a g r e a t d e s i d e r a tu m ; a n d th o s e w h o a r e h o n o r e d , by h a vi n g
th ei r chil d r e n n o m i n a te d , n e gl e ct n o ki n d o f e xp e n s e ; r iv al li n g
e a ch o th e r i n s pl e n d o r th ey la y p e a r l s d i a m o n d s e m e r a ld s , , ,
a nd r ub i e s u n d e r c o n t r i b u ti o n a n d p u t th e i r i m a gi n a ti o n to th e
,
r a ck i n o r d e r t o r e n d e r t h e d r e s s e s o f th e a c t o r s m o r e m a g n i
,
fi c ent . T h e cl e r gy a dv a n c e s l o wly a m id th e c r o wd o f t h e
fa ith ful w ith whi ch t h e s q u a r e is th r o n g e d
,
T h e m o s t b e a u ti .
ful gi r l s in t h e ci ty w a lk b e tw e e n th e r o w s o f p r i e s ts s o m e c a r ,
r y in g th e a r k a n d th e s h e w b r e a d o th e r s i n c e n s e o r b a s k e ts
,
-
, , ,
o f fl o we r s T o th e s e s u cc ee d y o u n g I n d i a n s w h o to th e s o u n d
.
,
o f a fl ut e a n d t a b o r p er fo r m wil d fa n t a s tic d a n c e s
,
T h e p ro .
c es s i o n is cl o s e d by a d e t a ch m en t o f t r o o p s , with a r m s a n d
c o l o r s r e ve r s e d .
B ull fi gh ts c o ck fi h ts th e th e a tr e, a n d ga m bli n g , a r e th e
-
,
- c
,
chi e f a m u s e m en ts o f t h e ge n tl e m e n .
2 . B R A ZIL
B r a z i l, th e s ur v ey o f which w e s h a ll n e xt a tt e m pt , li es , it
will b e s u ffic i e n t fo r o ur p ur p o s e to s ay , o n t h e s o uth a n d e a s t
o f C o l o m bi a , h a vi n g t h e A tl a n tic i n p a r t o n t h e n o r th and
,
w h o lly o n th e e a s t It h a s a n ar e a o f . s qu a r e m il es ,
a n d e xt e n d s o v er th r ee fi fth s o f th e w h o l e c o n ti n e n t o f S o u th
A m er i c a .
It i s th e re a r k o f a wr it e r, “ th a t th e r e i s s c a r c ely t o b e
l
g
,
fo u n d o n th e o b e a fi n er c o u n t r y th a n thi s o n e b l e s s e d with
a m o r e ge n i a l cli m a t e o r m o r e fe r til e s o il m o r e h a ppily di
,
v er s fi e d with w o o d a n d w a t e r o r with a b u n d a n c e o f n a vi a
r , g
b le r i v er s ; o r m o r e fa m e d fo r its p r e ci o u s p r o du c e o f g o ld a n d
1 28 U NIV E R S AL T R A VELL E R .
B R A Z IL .
d i a m o n d s I t c o m p r i s e s wit h i n its li m i t s a l m o s t a ll t h e m o s t v aI
. 4
u a b le p r o d uc t i o n s o f t h e e a r t h Vi e w e d fr o m th e s e a , t h e c o u n
.
tr y a pp e a r s r u g ge d a n d m o u n ta i n o u s ; b u t o n a n e a r e r
a pp r o a ch it s a pp e a r a n c e is h i hly r o m a n tic a n d pict ur es u e
g q ,
cl o th e d , as it is , wit h t h e m o s t l u xu r i a n t v e ge ta ti o n , its h ill s
c o ver e d wi t h th ick w o o d s , a n d i ts v a ll eys wi th a v er d ar e w h ich
n e v e r fa d e s T o w a r d s th e i n te r i o r , t h e l a n d r i s e s b y ge ntl e
.
gr a d a ti o n s t o th e h e ight o f fr o m 3 000 t o 6000 fe e t a b o ve t h e

le v el o f t h e s e a ; a n d i n th o s e te m p e r a t e r e gi o n s , E ur o p e a n
”
fr u its a n d gr a i n s ar e r a i s e d in a b un d a n c e , w h il e t h e in te r m e
d i a te v a ll ey s a r e e xt re m ely fa v o r a b l e to t h e p r o d u c ti o n o f ,
s u ga r , c o ffe e , a n d a ll ki n d s o f t r O p i c a l p r o d uc e A l a r ge p a r t .
o f t h e i n t e r i o r , h o w e v e r , i s o v e r s p r e a d wit h i m p en e t r a b l e fo r
e s t s ; t h e t r e e s cl o s ely i n t e r w o v e n with b r u s hw o o d a n d s h r ub s
'
a n d c o ve r e d wi t h c r e e pi n g pl a n ts , a d or ne d wit h b e a uti fu l
fl o w er s ; t h u s givi n g a p e c uli a r a n d r ic h a pp e a r a n c e to th e _
s cenery .
”
S u c h is a b r i e f a c c o u nt o f th e c o u n tr y wh o s e i n h a bit a n ts ,
w e p r o p o s e t o e x am i n e i n th e s e v er a l r e s p e c ts o f c h a r a ct er ,
,
m a n n e r s cu s to m s &c
,
T h ei r n u m b er i s ge n er a lly p u t a t
,
.
o f whic h o n ly o r n o t t o e xc e e d ,
a r e w hit e s ; a n e q u al n u m b e r a r e m u l a tto e s fr o m t w o m il
ti o n s to t w o m illi o n s a n d a h a l f a r e n e gr o s l a v e s a n d t h e r e s t
-
, ,
a r e I n d i a n s m ix e d b r e e d s a n d fr e e b l a ck s
,
A m o r e p a r tic u
,
.
la r cl a s s ific a t i o n w o ul d b e 1 E u r o p e a n s ; 2 whi te p er s o n s
. .
b o r n i n B r a zil w h o cl a i m t o b e d i s ti n gu i s h e d a s B r a zili a n s
,
3 M ul a tt o e s th a t i s t h e m ix e d c a s t e b e tw e en w h it e s an d
.
, , ,
b l a ck s 4 M a m a lu c o e s t h e m ix e d c a s te whi te s a n d I n di a n s
.
, ,
5 I n d i a n s i n a d o m e s tic a t e d s t a te w h o a r e ge n er a lly c a ll e d
.
,
C a b o c lo e s ; 6 I n d i a n s i n a s a v a g e s t a t e w h o a r e c
. a ]le d ~To ,
p ay as ; 7 fr ee n e gr o es b o r n i n B r a zil ; 8 m a n um itte d A fr ic a n s ;
. .
9 M e s tiz o e s , t h e m ix e d c a s t e b e tw e e n I n d i a n s a n d n e gr o e
l
. s .
,
T h e s l a v e p o p u l a ti o n c o n s i s ts o f A fr ic a n s c r e o l e n e g r o es , ,
m ul a tt o e s a n d m e s tiz o es
,
.
B S
I n r a zi l, u n lik e t h e p a n i s h a n d E n gli s h c o l o n i e s , t h e r e is
h a r d ly a n y p o litic a l d ivi s i o n o f c a s t e s , a n d v e r y fe w o f th o s e
a lli n g a n d d e g r a d i n g d i s ti n c ti o n s , w h ic h h a v e b e e n m a d e b y
g
a ll o th e r n a ti o n s , i n t h e m a n a g e m e n t o f t h e i r c o l o n i es M ar .
r i a ge s b e tw e e n white m e n a n d w o m e n o f c o l o r a r e by n o
v
m e a n s r a r e , a n d t h e ci r c u m s t a n c e i s s c a r c ely o b s e r v e d u p o n ,
u nl e s s th e w o m a n i s d e c i d e d ly o f a d a r k c o l o r , fo r e v e n a .
c o n s i d er a b l e ti n ge will p a s s fo r whi te W h a t i s r e m a r k ab l e, .
n o t w ith s t a n d i n g th e r e l a ti o n s hip o f th e m u l a tto e s o n o n e s id e

to th e b l a ck r a c e , th ey c o n s i d e r th e m s elv e s s u p e r i o r to t h e
m a m a lu c o es, t aki n g p r i d e i n b e i n g w h o lly u n c o n n e ct e d with
The
'
t h e I n d i a n s e v e n t h e m e s t iz o tr ie s t o p as s fo r a m u l a tt o .
m a m a lu c o e s , o n th e o th e r h an d , wh e t h e r fr o m a c o n s c io u s ,
n e s s o f b e i n g o f fr e e bi r th o n b o th s i d e s , o r fr o m r e s i d i n g fo r
th e m o s t p a r t i n t h e i n te r i o r , wh e r e th e g o v e r n m e nt i s m o r e
l o o s e a pp e ar to h a v e m o r e i n d e p e n d e n c e a n d to p ay l ess
, .
1 30 U NIVER S A L T R A V E LLER .
B R A Z IL .
h o s pit ality a n d g a v e u p th e i r o wn n e c es s a r y c o m fo r t s fo r m y
,
a cc o m m o d a ti o n .
I f t h e y a r e i n d o l en t it h a s hith e r to b e e n fo r w a n t o f a ,
p r o p er s t i m u l a n t a n d th e b a n e ful a n d e n e r v a ti n g e ffe cts“o f

,
h a vi n g a ll t h e i r l ab o r p e r fo r m e d a n d th e w a n t s s u ppli e d by ,
s l a ve s W h e r e a d u e i n c e ntiv e i s a ppli e d th er e a r e n o p e o ple
.
,
m o r e a ctive S i n c e t h e o p e n i ng o f th e i nt er i o r a n d a fr ee
.
,
c o m m u n ic a ti o n with o t h e r c o u n tr i e s n e w r o a d s h a v e b e en ,
p us h e d i n t o d es er t s wh e r e h u m a n fo o t e xc e pt th a t o f th e
, ,
s a v a ge n e v e r t r o d ; a n d pl a n t a ti o n s o f fo o d b e g u n
,
wh e r e ,
n o th i n b u t w o o d a n d b u s h es h a d b e fo r e b ee n s i n c e t h e c r e a
ti o n . n dee d th e i n c r e a s i n g i n t er c o ur s e o n th e r o a d s , a n d
,
t h e tr a n s p o r t a ti o n o f p r o d uc e fr o m pl a c e to pl a c e i s m o r e a o ,
tiv e th a n I h a ve s e e n in a ny c o u n tr y e xc e pt E n gl a n d ,
.
I f th e y a r e i gn o r a n t it i s n o t fr o m a n y w a n t o f a d e s i r e fo r
,
k n o wl e d ge o r a d i s p o s i ti o n t o l e a r n W h e n th e p o s t a r r iv es
,
.
a t S Jo s e o r a s i m il a r p l a c e t h e o ffi c e is c r o wd e d w ith p e o
.
, ,
p le w h o c o m e fo r th e i r n e ws p a pe r s a n d o th er s w h o p r e s s
, ,
fo r w a r d e a ge r to k n o w wh a t th ey c o n t a i n : a n d e v e r y p r o vi n
c i al t o w n h a s n o w a n e w s p a p e r o f its o w n I n th e s e r r a o f .
L e n h e ir o s th e y h a v e e s t a bli s h e d a r es p e ct a bl e p ub lic lib r a r y

, ,
a t S J o a o d e l R ey , with a lit er a r y s o ci e ty ; a n d s ch o o l s o f
’
.
p r i m a r y i n s t r u cti o n ar e o p en ed wh e r e v e r t h er e i s a c o ll e cti o n ,
o f h o u s es t o s upply s ch o l a r s wh o a r e s o e a g er t o l e a r n th a t , ,
i n s o m e pl a c es fo r w a n t o f b o o k s t h e y a r e i ns t r u cte d o u t o f
, ,
m a n u s c r ipt s ; a n d a l o n g t h e r o a d s t h e h u m b l es t p e o pl e w e r e ,
gl a d to r e c e iv e, a n d r e a d y t o giv e a n y u s e fu l i n fo r m a ti o n ,
.
“I f th ey a r e a p eo pl e o f a u i ck a n d i r r i table t em er th ey
q p ,
s e l d o m c a r r y it t o a fa t a l e xc e s s D u e lli n g th a t fl a g r a n t V i o .
,
l a ti o n o f th e l a ws o f G o d a n d m a n s o c o m m o n a m o n g u s , is ,
n e ve r h e a r d o f i n B r a zil a n d a s s a s s i n a ti o n s a r e m o r e t alk e d
,
o f th a n c o m m itte d It i s a v ulg a r p r ej u d ic e th a t a ll c r o s s es
.
,
s e t u p i n ti m a t e m u r d er
,
O f th e h un d r e d s w e m e t th e r e w er e
.
,
b u t t w o , a s fa r a s w e c o ul d l e a r n th a t d e n o te d it ; a n d b ut o n e ,
m u r d er a tt e n d e d with r o bb e r y ; t h e r e s t w er e l a n d m ar k s -
,
r o a d ma r k s
-
pi o us m ar k s o r m a r k s to i n d ic a te s u d d e n d e a t h
,
-
fr o m a cci d e n t a l o r n atu r a l c a u s e s ; m o s t o f t h e m n o w ve r y
o ld a n d r o tt e n a n d a pp a r e n tly t h e m o s t r e c e n t o f t h o s e w e
,
s aw ,
w a s d a te d i n t h e y e a r 1 8 1 6 a ffo r di n g a p r e s u m pti o n ,
th a t n o a ccid e n t o f th e ki n d it i n ti m a tes h a d o c c u r r e d fo r
tw e n ty y e a r s .
I f th ey a r e n o t i n cli n e d to i n vi t e p eop l e t o th ei r h ou s es it is ,
n o t fr o m a c h ur li s h di s p o s iti o n b ut b e c a u s e t h e i r h o u s e s a r e ,
n o t fitt e d up fo r o r th e y t h e m s e lv e s i n t h e h a b it o f s u c h i h
, ,
ter c o u r se T h ei r fe m a l e s a r e r e ti r i n g a nd d o m e s tic ye t
.
p r o m pt a n d pl e a s e d i n s h o wi n g a vi s iter a ll th e c o u r tes y a n d
civility i n th e i r p o w er A m e r c e n a r y p e o pl e I s h o ul d n o t s up
.
,
p o s e t h e m W h e ne v e r I p a id fo r a ny thi n g th e d e m a n d h as
.
,
‘
s o m e thi n g e xc e e d i n gly fa i t a n d m o d er a t e ; a n d o n s o m e o c
c a s io n s wh e n I r e c e iv e d m y m o n ey s w o r th n o r e m u n e r a tio n
,
’
,
w o ul d b e a c c e pte d T h e p r o p r i e to r o f a to p a z m in e s u ffer ed
.
U NIVER S A L T R A VELLER . 1 31
C H R ACT R
A E OF T HE I NHA B IT A N T S .
m e to pick h is ge m s , a n d p u t th e m i n m y p o ck e t ; a n d th e
up
p r o p r i e to r o f a go l d m i n e p r e s e n te d m e with a p a p er o f h is
p r e ci o us m et a l , a n d p o s i tiv e ly d e cli n e d a ny r e t ur n .
I f th ey i n d ulg e i n i l li ci t i n t er cou r s e, w e s h o u l d r e c o ll e ct
th a t o n e o f t h e b a n e fu l e ffe cts o f s l a v e r y , i s to fo r m s uc h c o n
n e x i o n s ; th a t a B
r a zili a n r e s i d i n g b y hi m s e l f, i n s u l a t e d i n a
d e s e r t, a n d h a vi n g n o n e o f t h e r e s t r a i n ts which th e O pi n i o n s
o f s o ci e ty i m p o s e t o hi n d er h i m , r e a dily a d o pt s s u c h a p r a c
tic e , a n d liv e s with h is fe m a l e s l a v es , a s wit h p e r s o n s w h o ar e
u n w o r thy o f th e r a n k o r s t a ti o n o f h i s wi fe Wh e n h e d o e s
*
.
fo r m a l e giti m a te c o n n exi o n , t h e l a w s o f m a r r i a ge a r e as m u c h
r e s p e ct e d a s i n a n y c o u n t r y i n E ur o p e , a n d a l m o s t a n y B r a
z ilia n h a s a g r e a t e r n u m b e r t h a n u s u a l o f l a w fu l chil d r e n , by
w o m e n w h o a r e r e m ar k a b l e fo r c o r r e ctn e s s o f c o n d u ct, a n d
d o m e s tic d uti e s C o n n e xi o n s o f n ea r e r ki n d r e d t h a n a r e a l
.
l o we d wi t h u s a r e v e r y u s ua l , b u t t h e y a r e s a n c ti o n e d by
S
c r o wn e d h e a d s , b o th in p a i n a n d P o r t uga l ; s u c h a s a m a n
m a r r yi n g t h e child o f h is b r o t h er a n d s i s te r Ev e n th e c o n .
n e x io n o f s t ill n e a r e r r e l a tiv e s , I a m s o r r y to s a y , t a k e s pl a c e ;
b ut it is v e r y r ar e , a n d p o i n te d a t ; a n d a s fa r a s I c o ul d l e a r n ,
as m u ch s tig m a tiz e d b y p ub lic r e p r o b a ti o n a s i n thi s c o u n tr y .
T w o p e r s o n s w er e s h o w n to m e a s livi n g i n thi s w a y , a n d with

e xp r e s s i o n s o f h o r r o r , b y m y i n fo r m a n t It is t r u e , th a t I d id
.
m e et i n th e w o o d s o f t h e s e r r a o f M a n tiq u e iz a , o n e m ix e d fa m
ily o f b l a ck s a n d whit e s , w h o e x h i b it e d in th e i r d a n c e s p a i n
fu l i n d ic a ti o n s o f lic e n ti o u s h a b it s b ut I b e li e v e th e y w er e a ll
b o r n i n s l a v e r y , a n d d i s pl a y e d r a th e r e x a m pl e s o f th a t d e
m o r a lizi n g s t a te , th a n o f th e ge n e r al ch ar a cte r o f th e B r a
z ili a n s .
“B ut o f all c h a r ge s th a t o f di s h o n
es t y a n d r o bb er , s ee m s
, y
f
m o s t u n o u nd ed , a n d I k n o w n o c o u nt r y th r o u gh whic h I w o u ld
n o w t r a v e l , wi t h a g r e a t e r fe e li n g o f s e c u r i ty I n t h e vici n ity .
o f R i o , a r o bb e r y is s o m e ti m e s c o m m itt e d o n t h e hill s by fu
,
gi tiv e s l a v e s , a n d i n t h e lo w gr o u n d s a b o u t th e b a y , b y v a gr a n t
s a il o r s ; b u t w h e n t h e s e r r a i s o n c e p a s s e d , t h e r e is n o fu r th er
d a n ge r .M y fr i e n d , M r D ur a l , t r a v e ll e d fo r w e e k s t o g et h e r
.
th r o ugh t h e c o un t r y , by n i ght a n d d a y ; h e n o wh e r e h es i ta t e d
to e n te r a w o o d , o r s to p a t a s o li t a r y r a n ch o , a n d n e v e r felt
hi m s e l f, n o r h e a r d fr o m o t h e r s , a n y c a u s e fo r t h e a p p r e h e n
s i o n o f d a n ge r Wh a te v e r is fo r go tte n a t t h e lit tl e r a n c h o s
.
o n t h e r o a d , is fo u n d u n t o u ch e d w h en t h e p a s s e n er r e t ur n s
g .
M r M ilw a r d l e ft a r ticl es c o m i n g u p , which h a d e s c a p e d h is

. .
m e m o r y ; t h e y w e r e k e pt fo r h i m a s a s o l e m n d e p o s i t, a n d d e
liv e r e d to h im w h e n w e w e r e go i n g b a ck T h e m i s er ab l e .
pl a c es c a ll e d qu a r t o s , a fl o r d littl e p r o te c t i o n a g a i n s t t h i e ve s ,
a n d t h e o p e n r a n c h o s s till l es s
; y e t, w e n e v er l o s t t h e s m a ll e s t
a rt icl e wh e n t o g e th er
’
,
n o r I by m y s e l f w h e n w e s e p a r ate d
, .
B u t th e r e i s o n e ex p e r im e n t o f m i n e , whic h I c a n n o t h elp
‘
th i n ki n g is hi gh ly c r e d it a bl e to th e n a tiv e i n te g r ity o f th e p e o .
The a u th o rh er e no ted, p ro b ab l ydoe s des ig n t o us t if yt h e ve

’
not ab o
ra c t ice , a s h e hi m s el f m in at es it l very ’
p en o o n e o f th e ba n ef ul e ect s o f s a .
1 32 UN IVER S A L T R A V ELLER .
B R A Z IL .
p l e .
It w as unive r s ally b eli e v e d an d th e r ep o r t w en t e ver y
,
wh er e b e fo r e m e , th a t I w a s b r i n gi n g with m e a ch e s t o f go l d
fr o m th e m i ne s , a n d I w a s in a s t a t e utte r ly h elpl es s a n d un
'
p r o te cte d b e i n g m y s el f a t o tal s tr a n ger , a n d h a vi n g n o o n e

,
with m e b ut a p o o r d es pi s e d n e gr o fo r a id e, w h o w a s h e l d
i n n o m o r e e s ti m a ti o n t h a n th e m u l e h e le I p a s s e d th r o u gh
s o lit a r y c o u n t r i es wh e r e th e r e w a s n e i th e r p o lic e to h u n t o ut
,
a d e li n q ue n t a p r i s o n to p ut h im i n i f h e w a s c a u gh t n o r a
, ,
j u d ge to c o n d e m n h im if h e w a s guilty I w a s c a r r yi n g a n .
o b j e ct o f gr e a t t e m pt a ti o n a n d c upi d i ty i n viti n i t w
g a s e r e, , ,
t h e p e o pl e to c o m e a n d c a r r y it o ff wh o w er e t h e m s e lv e s p r e
,
j u d i c e d a n d a ngr y a t t h e v er y a c t o f m y t a ki n g it o ut o f t h e
c o u n t r y ; a n d I m e t th e m e ve r y d ay i n l o n e ly m o un t a i n s a n d
wil d w o o d s wh er e I m ight d i s a pp e a r with m y tr ea s ur e a n d
, ,
no q u e s ti o n o r i n q u i r y b e e v e r m a d e a fte r m e a g a i n Y e t, I .
b r o u ht m y ch e s t o f s u pp o s e d go l d p e r fe ctly s a fe th r o u gh a '
p ee pg e w h o s ee m e d t o t h i n k it w a s th ei r p r o p e r ty a n d th a t I
,
h a d n o r ight t o t a k e it a w a y ; a n i n s t a n c e o f fo r b e a r a n c e in
thi s l a w l e s s c o un tr y a s s o m e a r e pl e a s e d t o c a ll it w h ic h I
, ,
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,
d o ubt w o ul d n o t h a pp e n i n E n l a n d a t t h e p r e s e n t d a y , o r in
,
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I r e l a n d e ith er , s i n c e th e d a y s 0 r ich a n d r a r e .
In r es p ec t f th e b etter c l a s s es o f th e pe o pl e ,
to th e m a n n er s o
e s p e ci a lly o f R io d e J a n e i r o Li s b o n a c c o r d i n g to M r B r a ck
, , .
e n r i d e i s th e m o d e l u p o n w h ich t h e y a r e fo r m e d ; a n d i t i s
,
p r o b a le , th at thi s h a s n o t c h an g e d s i n c e th e a r r iv a l o f t h e
r o y a l fa m ily T h e P o r tu gu e s e a r e s a i d t o b e t h e o n ly p e o pl e
.
in E u r o p e w h o p r e s er v e th a t M o o r i s h j e a l o us y , which h a s b een
b a n i s h e d e ve n fr o m S p a i n T h e fe m a l e p ar t o f th e ir fa m ili e s
.
a r e s h ut u p in t h e s t r ic te s t m a n n e r , a n d n e v e r v e n t ur e a b r o a d ,
un l es s it b e t o ch ur ch ; a n d th e n w ith th e i r fa c e s w r a pt u p in a
bl a ck m a n tl e which p a s s e s o v e r th e h e a d M e n s el d o m i n tr o
,
.
d uc e th e i r m o s t i nti m a te fr i e n d s to th e i r wiv e s o r d a ught er s ; a n d

e xc e pt a t t h e th e a tr e th ey a r e r a r e ly s e e n i n p u b lic
'
,
Some .
t i m e s , i n d e e d th e y v e n tur e to s it i n t h e e v e n i n g a t t h e i r w i n
,
d o w s a n d fr o m t h e i r a cti o n s s tr a n g er s u n a cqu a i n te d wi t h th e
, ,
c us to m s o f t h e c o u n tr y w o ul d b e a p t to fo r m un fa v o r a b l e in
,
fe r en c e s fr o m t h e i r s m il e s a n d b e ck o n i n g s T h e th r o w i n g o f .
flo w e r s a t p e r s o n s p a s s i n g a l o n g i s k n o w n to b e a n i n n o c e n t
,
d i s pl a y o f g ay e ty to w hic h c u s t o m a tt a ch e s n o t h i n g i m p r o p e r
,
.
[ t is a l s o v e r y p r o b ab l e, th a t thi s fr iv o lity is n o t v er y c o m m o n
a m o n g th e b e tte r cl a s s o f p eo pl e ; a n d t h a t s t r a n g e r s fr o m o h
s e r vi n g th e s e thi n gs i n a fe w i n s t a n c e s o f p e r s o n s o f a d i ff e r,
e n t c a s t, h a v e b e e n l e d t o fo r m a m i s t a k e n id e a o f th e r e s t .
T h e a c c o u n ts giv e n b y F r e z ie r a n d o th er s w h o c o n s i d e r th e ,
B r a z ili a n w o m e n a s t o t a lly d e v o id o f th a t d e lic a cy which ch ar

a c te r iz e s th e s ex i n o t h e r c o u n tr i e s a n d a s c o n ti n u a lly e n ga g e d
, ‘
i n t h e m o s t s h a m e fu l i n tr i gu es c a n n o t b ut b e e x a gge r a t e c
,
At .
th e s a m e ti m e , it i s n atu r a l t o s u pp o s e t h a t wh e n t h u s i m m u r e d
,
fr o m s o ci e ty a n d d e
,
p r iv e d o f d a ily a n d fr e e i nt e r c o u r s e w i th
th e w o r ld ,
th o se v e r y e ff ec t s w o u l d b e p r o d u c e d ,
a ga i n s t
1 34 (
U NIVER S A L T R A VELLER .
BRA ZIL
a s p r i gh tly l a u ghi n g a ir a n d a d e m e a n o r ga y fr a n k a n d u n~
,
‘
, ,
s us pici o u s S u c h i s t h e c o m m o n a pp e a r a n c e o f a y o un g l a d y
.
a b o ut thi r t ee n o f fo ur te e n y e a r s o f a e ; a p e r i o d wh en s h e
g
u s ua lly t a k e s u p o n h e r th e c a r e s o f a h o u s e h o ld o r r a th er n o t , ,
with s t a n d i n g o o vro us d is q u a lifi c a tio n s a s s u m e s th e ch a r a c te r ,
o f a m a tr o n I n d e e d, a t e ighte e n i n a B r a zili a n w o m a n n a tu r e
'
.
, ,
h a s a t ta in e d to full m a t u r ity ; a fe w y e a r s l a t e r s h e b e c o m es
,
,
c o r p ul e n t a n d e v e n u n wi e l d ly a cq u i r e s a g r e a t s to o p i n h e r
, ,
s h o u l d e r s a nd w a lk s wi t h a n a wkw a r d w a d d li n g g a i t ; s h e h é
, ,
gi n s to d e c a y , l o s e s th e go o d h um o r o f h e r c o un te n a n c e a s '
,
s u m e s i n its pl a c e a c o n t r a ct e d a n d s c o wli n g b r o w ; t h e e e
y
a n d m o uth b o th i n dic a te th a t t h e y h a v e b e e n a cc u s t o m e d t o
'
e xp r es s t h e vi o l e n t a n d vi n dic tiv e p a s s i o n s t h e c h ee ks a r e ,
d e p r iv e d o f th e i r pl um p n e s s a n d c o l o r a n d a t tw e n ty fi v e, ,
-
o r th i r ty a t m o s t, s h e b e c o m es a p er fe ctly w r i n kl e d o ld we
m an .
“E a r ly c o r p ul e n c e a pp e a r e d t o m e to a r i s e fr o m th e ir s eo l a .
d e d a n d i n d o l e n t h a b its T h ey w er e s e l d o m s e e n o u t o f d o o r s
.
,
o i n g to m a s s , s o e a r ly a s fo u r o cl o ck i n t h e
’
e xc e pt wh e n -
m o r n i n g o n h a s s a n to s o r d a y s o f s a c r e d o bli ga ti o n ; a n d
, ,
e v e n th e n th e w h o l e fo r m a n d fa c e w e r e s o w r a p p e d u p i n
,
m a n tl es o r e n cl ose d withi n t h e c u r t a i n s o f a ca d e ir a a s t o
, ,
p r e clu d e th e e nj o y m e n t o f fr e s h a i r a n d to c o n c e a l e v e r y fe a ,
t u r e ex c e p t p e r h a p s a wick e d ly t a lk a tiv e e y e T h es e c a d ei r a s
'
.
,
a n s w e r l es s c o m m o d i o u s ly t h e s a m e p u r p o s e a s d o t h e p a l a n
, , ,
q ui n s o f t h e E a s t T h ey c o n s i s t o f a n a r m c h a i r with a hi gh
.
-
b a ck t o which i s a tt a c h e d a l o n g fo o t b o a r d a n d a c a n o py
,
-
.
A r o u n d th e l a tte r a r e s us p e n d e d c u r t a i n s o f b l ue cl o th e d ge d ,
wi t h s o m e g a u dy c o l o r a n d k e pt cl o s e d a s th e m a chi n e p a s s es
,
”
a l o n g t h e s tr e et s i n o r d e r t o c o n c e a l t h e h a u gh ty o r t h e c o n
,
s t r a i n e d d o nn a fr o m p ub lic vi e w T h e wh o l e i s a tt a ch e d t o a .
’
l o n g p o l e p a s s i n g o v e r t h e l a d y s h e a d a n d is s u s p e n d e d b e
, ,
t w e e n t w o b l a ck m e n w h o s u pp o r t it o n th e i r s h o u l d e r s
,
.
S u ch w e r e th e o nly c a r r i a ge s us e d fo r m e r ly i n R io b y p eo pl e
o f fa s hi o n ; a n d lik e th e m o d e r n ch a i s e t o whic h t h e y h a v e ,
l a tely giv e n pl a c e th e y w e r e s o m e ti m e s v e r y s pl e n d i d b e i n g
, ,
d e c o r a te d in s u c h a m a n n e r a s m igh t b es t d i s pl a y th e t a s te ,
t h e w e a l th a n d t h e r a n k o f t h e o w n e r
,
O n t h e fo o t b o a r d , .
-
which is l a r ge e n o ugh fo r t h e p u r p o s e , i s o fte n s eat e d a li ttl e ’
s en h o r a fo r m i n g t h e s a m e i d l e h a b it s a s h e r m o t h e r h a s d o n e ,
a n d l a yi n g a fo u n d a ti o n fo r futu r e u n wi e l d i n e s s o f a s i m il a r
ki n d .
“T h e e x e r ci s e which th es e l a di e s t a k e is a l m o s t wh o lly c o n
,
fi n e d to th e h o u s e Littl e e x e r ti o n i s n e c e s s a r y a n d th a t li ttl e
.
,
i s o pp o s e d b y i n cli n a ti o n ; th ey a r e s u r r o un d e d by s l a v e s a n d ,
it is th e i r p r ivil e ge to b e w a ite d u p o n I h a v e s e e n thi s c a r .
r i e d to a n e x t e n t whic h w o u l d b e r i d ic ul o u s w e r e it n o t s o m e ,
t hi n g w o r s e ; a n d a m s o r r y t o a d d th a t s u c h s ig h ts a r e n o t ,
u nu s u a l A l a d y w a s s e a te d o n a m a t (o n e m o r n i n g w h e n I ,
W i th
.
c a ll e d up o n h e r ) s u r r o u n de d by a n u m b e r o f s l a v e s
, ,
nee dl e w o r k i n th e i r h an d s ; a d r i n ki n g v e s s e l full o f w te r
a
-
U NIV ER S A L T R A VE LLER . 1 35
H A B IT S AN D M AN N ER S .
b e i n g pl a c e d s o a s th a t s h e c o ul d c o n v e n i e n tly r e a c h it S h e .
i n t e r r u p te d t h e c o n ve r s a ti o n b y s u d d e n ly c a llin a lo ul d fo r
,
a n o t h e r s l a v e t o c o m e fr o m a di ffe r e n t p a r t 0 th e h o us e .
Wh en t h e n e gr e s s e n ter e d th e r o o m , th e l a dy s a id to h e r ,
‘ iv
G e m e th a t d r i n ki n g ve s s e l ’
S h e d id s o ; h e r m i s tr e s s .
d r a n k a n d r e t ur n e d i t ; th e s l a ve r e pl a c e d it i n its fo r m e r s i
,
tu a tio n a n d r e ti r e d wi th o u t s e e m i n g t o fe el th a t th e c o m m a n d
, ,
w a s a n e x tr a o r d i n a r y o n e o r th a t s h e h a d p e r fo r m e d a u ght
, ,
wh ich s h e h a d n o t d o n e a t h o u s a n d ti m es b e fo r e A h ! l a d i e s , .
t h o u g h t I wh a t w o n d e r th a t y o u b ec o m e c o r p ul e n t a n d r ui n
, ,
y o u r c o ns ti t uti o n ; th e s e a r e t h e n a t u r a l e ffe cts o f i n a n ity .
O th e r c a us e s o f th e ch a n ge which h a s b ee n n o tic e d m ight

b e fo u n d I h a v e o fte n t h o u gh t in a n o b s ti n a te a d h e r e n c e t o
, ,
u n s u i ta b l e c u s t o m s T h e s h r un k a n d fu r r o w e d a pp e a r a n c e o f
.
t h e b r o w s e e m s t o m e t o a r i s e i n a gr e a t m e a s u r e fr o m , ,
fo ll o wi n g E u r o p e a n fa s h i o n s u n d er t h e b u r n i n g s u n o f t h e
‘ ’
t o r r i d z o n e w h er e th e full tid e o f d a y is p o ur e d
,
E ven .
t h e white a n d g e n te el fa m ili e s o f B r a zil w e a r n o c o v e r i n g o n ,
t h e h e a d — n o s h a d e fo r t h e e y e ; h e n c e th e b r o w a n d p u pil
,
c o ntr a ct th e m s e lv e s a s m u ch a s p o s s i b l e to s hi e ld th e t e n d e r ,
o r g a n fr o m t h e s up e r ab u n d a n c e o f light
-
T h e w a ll s o f th e .
h o u s es , t o o b o th wi thi n a n d with o u t a r e u n iv er s a lly white n e d ,

, ,
h eig h t e n i n g by r e fl e cti o n th e m i d d a y gl a r e a n d s o m e ti m e s
, , ,
ci a n a l m o s t i n to l e r a bl e u n e a s i n e s s i n t h e ey e s o f
p r o d u n g
p e r s o n s p o s s es s e d o f th e s tr o n ges t s i ht I s it w o n d e r ful th a t .
t h e fo r e h e a d a n d e y e s o f d e lic a t e e m a le s s h o ul d gr a d u a lly
a s s u m e a n h a bit u a l c o n t r a cti o n w h i c h o v e r cl o u d s m a n y a ,
fa i r fa c e with a pp e a r a n c e s th a t s o m e ti m es m i s r e p r e s e n t ,
t h e r e a l tu r n o f t h e m i n d ? P r e m a t u r e a ge i s o wi n g p ar tly to
cli m a te p a r tly to a c o n s titu ti o n e n fe e bl e d a n d r u i n e d by i n
,
a ctivity ; m o s t o f a ll t o t h e u nn a t ur a l a n d s h a m e fully e a r ly
,
a ge a t whic h fe m a l es a r e a ll o w e d to m a r r y T h e i r e a r ly .
g o o d h u m o r o r th e s h o w o f it s o o n w e a r s a w ay ; th ey o fte n
, ,
b e c o m e t h e v er y r e v e r s e o f wh a t th ey w er e a n d e xhi b it t h e ,
a l t e r a ti o n t o o pl a i nly T hi s c h a n e m a y b e a t tr ib ute d p r i n ci
p a lly t o t h e c hil d i s h c er e m o n y a n §i m o r e fo o li s h fl a tt e r y with
.
, ,
which e v e r y w o m a n is t r e a t e d w h o r a n k s a b o v e th e c o n d i ,
ti o n o f a s l a v e T h ey s e e m to b e r e g a r d e d b y th e m e n as
.
d o ll s o r a s s p o il e d chil d r e n wh o s e w h i m s m u s t b e gr a tifi e d
, , ,
a n d e v e n a n ticip a t e d a n d s h e w h o h a s t h e gr e a t e s t n u m b e r
o b t a i n s t h e m o s t a tt e n ti o n T h e ge n e r a lity o f l a d i e s tr e a te d
.
in t h i s w a y b e c o m e a l m o s t o f c o ur s e fr e tful a n d p e e vi s h a n d
, , , ,
p o u r th e i r s pl ee n U p o n th e i r s l a ve s ; a n d wh e n th e s e r e s i s t o r
n e gl e c t th e o r d er s giv e n t h e m e n d e a v o r t o s u b d u e t h e m b y a ,
n o i s y a n d b o i s te r o u s b e h a vi o r n o t a lw a y s fr e e fr o m m a lig ,
n i ty a n d b y c a s ti ga ti o n n o t t h e l e s s s e v e r e fo r c o m i n g fr o m
, ,
’
a l a d y s h an d H e r e is e x e r ci s e a n d p er h a p s th e m o s t e th e a
.
,
ci o n s th a t t h e y e ve r ta k e , q uick e ni n g th e ci r c ul a ti o n givi n g ,
s o m e t o n e t o t h e m u s cl es a n d d i s ch a r gi n g p e c c a n t h u m o r s ;
,
but a t t h e s a m e ti m e d e s tr o yi n g t h e te m p e r i m pl a n ti n g in
, ,
1 36 U NIVER S A L TR A V ELL E R .
B R A Z IL .
th e h ea r t th e p ri n cipl es o f a vix e n , a n d s t a m pi n g o n th e c o u n
t e n a n c e t h e pl a i n i n d ic a ti o n s o f wh a t p a s s e s with i n
“W h e n a e n tl e m a n c a ll s u p o n a n o t h er if h e b e n o t i n ti
.
g ,
m a te a t th e h o u s e , h e go e s thith e r i n full d r e s s , with a c o ck e d
h a t, with b u ckl e s i n h i s s h o es a n d a t th e k n e e s , a n d w ith a '
s w o r d o r d ir k b y h is s i d e
y
H
a vi n g r e a ch e d t h e b o tto m o f t h e
.
s t a i r s , h e cl a ps h is h a n d s a s a s ig n a l t o a t tr a c t a tte n ti o n , a n d
u t te r s a s o r t o f s i b il a n t s o u n d b e twe e n h i s t ee t h , a n d t h e e n d
o f h i s t o n gu e, a s t h o u gh h e p r o n o u n c e d th e s yll a b l e s ch ee c u .
T h e s e r v a n t w h o a tte n d s th e c a ll , r o u ghly i n qu i r e s in a n a s a l
t o n e , W h o i s it ? a n d b e i n g to l d , r eti r e s to i n fo r m th e m a s ter
o f t h e h o u s e , w h a t a r e th e wi s h es o f t h e vi s iter If h e b e a .
fr i e n d , o r o n e s o w ell k n o w n a s t o b e r e c e iv e d with o u t c er e
m o n y , th e m a s t e r qu i ckly c o m e s to h i m , a n d us h er s h im i n t o
t h e S u la , m a ki n g l o u d p r o te s t a ti o n s o f th e pl e a s u r e v e n h im
'
by th e vi s it, m ixi n g h is c o m p li m e n t a r y s p e e c h e s w it a gr e a t
n um b e r o f b o w s B
e fo r e b u s i n e s s i s e n t er e d u p o n i f th a t b e
.
th e o b j e c t, r e p e a t e d a p o l o gi es ar e o ffe r e d fo r t h e fr e e m o d e i n
whic h th e vi s it er is r e c e ive d A n d , t h er e is o fte n n o littl e c c
.
c a s i o n fo r s uc h a p o l o gi e s ; fo r t h e e ntle m a n v e r y g e n e r a lly
d
.
m a k e s h is a pp e a r a n c e wi t h a b e ar o f m a ny d a y s g r o w th , ’
wi th h is bl a ck h a i r in th e r o u gh e s t s t a te , th o u gh b e s m e a r e d
with gr e ase , a n d wi th n o cl o thi n g o ve r h is c o tt o n s hi r t T h i s .
g a r m e n t is , i n d e e d , w ell m a d e , a n d o r n a m e n te d wi t h n ee dl e
w o r k , e s p e ci ally ab o u t th e b o s o m B ut, th e n , it is c o m m o n ly
.
w o r n in th e h o u s e , s o a s to e xp o s e th e b r e a s t, a n d th e s l e e v es
a r e tu ck e d u p t o t h e e l b o ws O r , i f by ch a n c e it b e s e c ur e d
.
a t th e n e ck a n d w r i s ts by i ts gl o b u l a r g o l d b u tt o n s , t h e fl a p s
a pp ea r o n th e o u t s i d e , h a n gi n g h al f w a y d o w n t h e s i d e s o v er
-
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a w a i s tb a n d which s e c u r e s r o u n d th e l o i n s a s h o r t p a i r o f
t r o w s e r s ; whil e th e l e gs ar e qu ite b a r e , a n d th e fee t c o v e r e d
w ith ta m a n ca s A ll th i s is n o t v er y d elic a te , m o r e e s p e ci a lly
.
a s t h e s ki n s o f t h e B
r a zili a n s ab o u n d with h a i r , a n d a r e m u ch
s u n b u r n t a b o u t th e b r e a s t a n d l e gs
-
.
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c o n d u ct th e vi s i te r to th e s a la , fr o m whic h , a s h e e nte r s , h e
o ft e n s e e s t h e p e r s o n s w h o w er e i n t h e r o o m , e s c a pi n g a t th e
o th er d o o r . H
e r e h e w a it s a l o n e , it m a y b e h a l f a n h o u r ,
wh e n th e g e n tl e m a n a pp e a r s i n a s o r t o f h a l f d r e s s T h e y -
.
b o th b o w p r o fo u n dl y a t a d i s t a n c e a fter a s uffici e n cy o f s kill

in t hi s s ci e n c e h a s b ee n di s pl a y e d , a n d th us ti m e g a i n e d t o a s
’
c e r t a i n e a c h o th er s r a nk a n d p r e te n s i o n s , th ey a pp r o a ch , i t
u n e qu a l , with c o r r e s p o n d i n d i gn ity a n d r e s p e ct— i f s upp o s e d
to b e n e ar ly e q u a l s , with a m ilia r ity T h e b u s i n e s s is th e n
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e n t er e d u p o n , a n d d e s p a tc h e d a t o n c e T h e s e b o ws b e twee n
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thi s s l o w a pp r o a ch I a l m o s t lik e , a s th ey ve
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t
s r an ger s , and ,
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m e n s o m e o pp or t u n ity to m e a s u r e a n d a pp r e ci a t e o n e a n o t e r ,
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w a r d a p o l o ies With m y c o u n tr y m e n in g e n er a l I p a r tici
.
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p a t e i n a n a h o r r e n c e o f t h e B r a zili an em br ace
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RI O J A N E IR O .
t h e Co m m o d o r e vi s e d th e m i n fu t ur e t o d r a w t h e ir s w o d
ad r 3
o n ly a g a i n s t a n e n e m y T o t h e ki n g w h o di d n o t r e q ui r e
.
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thi s r i d ic ul o us a n d i n c o n v e n i e n t h o m a g e t h e E n gli s h ge n ,
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y o .
T h e i n d o l e n c e with which a ll cl a s s e s o f t h e i n h a b i t a n ts o f
R io a r e r e p r o a ch e d is u n d o ubte dly to b e a s c r i b e d i n s o m e
, .
m e a s u r e t o t h e r e l a x i n g c li m a t e
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T h e m e r ch a n ts M r ; L u c .
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,
h o ur s i n t h e d a y T h e s h o pk e e p er s a r e e q u a lly i d l e
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t h e o nly r e g ul a r m e a l in th e d a y i s t h e n h a s tily t a k e n The .
m i d d l e cl a s s e s o f t h e citiz e n s o f R io w h o h a v e n o t e n t ir ely ,
a d o pt e d t h e m a n n e r s o f P o r tu g a l t a k e a s m a ll p r o p o r ti o n o f ,
a n i m a l fo o d c o n t e n ti n g t h e m s e lv e s with t h e a d m i r a b l e fr u it s
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a n d th e c h e e s e i m p o r te d fr o m M e r i a s G e r a e s which wi th , ,
b a n i a n s is m e t with o n e v e r y t a bl e T h e B r a zili a n e a ts e v e n
,
.
wh ea t e n b r e a d b u t s p a r i n gly , p r e fe r r i n g to it h is fa r i n h a He .
e a t s b u t m o d er a t e ly o f h i s fe w d i s h e s d r i n ks c hi e fl y w a t e r , ,
a n d t a k e s e v er y thi n g with th e gr e a t e s t r e gul a r ity I n th e .
e v e n i n g h e v e r y p r u d e n t ly t a k e s s c a r c e ly a n y thi n g ; a t th e
,
m o s t a c up o f t e a o r o f c o ffe e ; a n d h e a v o i d s e s p e ci a lly a t
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O nly s u ch a r e gi m e n s ay s D r V o n
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n ight e a t i n g c o o l fr uit s
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.
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h im fr o m m a n y d i s e a s e s t o whic h th e s tr a n g e r exp o s e s h im
’
s e l f t h r o u gh i gn o r a n c e o r i n a t te n ti o n F is h is n o t s o m uc h .
'
e a t e n h e r e a s o n th e n o r th e r n c o a s ts M a n di o c a n d m a iz e .
fl o ur a n d bl a ck b e a n s b o il e d with b a c o n a n d s a l t b e e f d r i e d
, ,
i n t h e s un , a r e th e c hi e f a r ticl e s o f d i e t a m o n g th e l o w e r
”
cl as s e s .
A t R i o J a n ei r o th e s u pp ly of o od i s a b un d a n t a n d c o n s t a n t f .
H e r d s o f bl a ck c a ttl e c o n ti n u a lly c o m e fr o m t h e i n te r i o r , a nd
a r e d r iv e n t o t h e c o r a l , a l a r g e o p e n s p a c e o n t h e P r a y a d e
L u z i a , cl o s e o n th e s e a s h o r e B
e s i d e t h i s , a r e e r e c te d p u b
-
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li c s la u gh te r h o us e s , w h e r e th ey a r e ki le d , a n d th e n c o n vey e d
l
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o n n e gr o e s
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h e a d s t o di ffe r e n t s ta ll s i n t h e ci ty “ T h e m ost .
”
d i s a gr e e a b l e s p e c ta cl e I h a v e e v e r wit ne s s e d , s a y s D r W a l s h , .
“i s o n e o f th e s e n e r o b utch er s wi t h a r e a s y r a r o u n d h is
g
w a i s t, a n d h is n a k e d b o d y , c o v er e d wi th l o o d a n go r e, p e r
s pi r i n g u n d e r a r a w c a r c a s s T hi s c o r a l is n o t fa r fr o m t h e
.
p ub lic g a r d e n s, a n d s i tu a te d o n a d e li gh t fu l w a lk a l o n g t h e
s e a s h o r e ; b ut th e s i ght a n d s m e ll o f e v e r y t hi n g a b o u t it ar e
-
s o o ffe n s iv e, th a t fe w v e n t ur e t o p a s s it T h e b e e f is s o m e « .
ti m e s o u t i n t o l a r ge fl a k e s a n d d r i e d ; a n d in t h a t s t a te c a ll e d
c a r n e s ecco Wh en h a n gi n g in v e n d a s , it l o o k s lik e hi d e s o f
.
l e a th e r .
“M utt o n is ve r s ee n i n th e m ar k e t s o f R io It is a m e a t to
ne .
whic h th e B r a zili a n s s e e m t o h a ve as gr e a t a p r ej u d i c e a s
Je ws t o p o r k Wh e n s h e ep w er e fi r s t i m p o r te d i n to S o ut h
.
U NIVER S A L T R A VELL ER . 1 39
,
RI O J AN IR O — FOOD
E . .
A m er ic a , in th e te m p e r a t e s o uth e r n r e gi o n s , th e y e xten s iv e ly
m ul tipli e d , a n d b e c a m e wild ; b u t in B r a z il th e y g r e a tly d et e
r i o r a ted T h e w o o l l o s t its fle ec i n es s a n d b e c a m e s ti ff a n d
.
,
w i r y , lik e th e h a i r o f o ld Ho w fa r thi s u n n a tu r a l
c h an ge m igh t h a ve a ffe cte d tg
oa s .
e pt e o pl e , I c a n n o t s ay ; b ut th ey
d o n o t e a t t h e s h e e p , a n d will n o t r e a r th e m B e y o n d th e .
s e r r a o f M a r tiq u e r a , a r e t h e m o s t e x te n s iv e a n d b e a uti ful

d o w n s i h th e w o r l d , c o ve re d with p a s t ur e lik e th o se o f S u s s e x,
'
i
a n d in a t e m p er a te r e gi o n ; b u t th ere is n ot t o b e s e e n o n th e m
a s i n gl e s h e e p T o w a r d s th e R io d e la P l a ta, o n th e s p a ci o u s
.
pl a i ns wh e r e th ey h a v e gr e a tly i n c r e a s e d , I h av e b e e n in
,
fo r m e d t h ey a pply th e m t o a n e xtr a o r di n ar y u s e F u e l is .
v e r y s c a r c e a n d m utto n v e r y pl e n ti ful, s o th e y th r o w s h ee p
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i nto kil n s a s a m a te r i a l to b ur n b r ick s It w a s fo r m er ly n o t
,
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u n us u a l t o d r ive s h e e p a live i n t o a li m e kil n ; b ut a n e dic t -
w a s m a d e a g a i n s t thi s c ru e l p r a ctic e , whic h i s s till in fo r c e .
’
I t ell y o u th e t a le as tw a s t o l d to m e , by s e v er a l p e o pl e ; a n d
o n i n q ui r i n g i n t o t h e t r u th o f i t, fr o m a g e n tl e m a n w h o h a d
l a te ly c o m e fr o m th a t c ou n t r y, a n d wh o s e ve r ac ity I c o uld n o t
d o ubt h e i n fo r m e d m e t h a t h e h a d a ct ua lly s e e n a m a n a t
,
B ue n o s A y r es th r o w a s h o uld e r o f m utto n, as fue l , o n th e to p

o f th e fi r e M utt o n , h o w e v e r , is s o m e ti m es p ur c h a s e d a t R io
.
by E u r o pe a n s fo r who s e use a l o n e it is kill e d It is v e r y b a d

, . .
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,
it is pl en ti ful a n d v er y go o d It is p r e p a r e d a n d e a te n in a . .
p e c uli a r w a y Whe n t h e p ig is kill e d , th e b u tch e r de xte r o us ly

.
S c o O p S o u t t h e b o n e s a n d m u s c u l a r fl e s h , l e a vi n g b e h i n d o n ly
th e c o v er i n g o f fa t I n thi s s t a te it is s a l te d , fo ld e d u p , a n d
.
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s e n t in gr e a t q u a n titi e s t o R io A ll th e s to r e s a n d v end as
.
a r e full o f it ; a n d it i s u s e d c o m m o n ly fo r c u li n a r y p ur p o s es ,
a n d fo r m s a n i n g r e di e n t i n e ve r y B r a zili a n a r ticl e o f c o o k e r y .
“F i s h is i n pl e n ty b ut n o t r e m a r k a bl e P r a w n s a r e v e ry .
,
l a r g e -r es e m bli n g y o u n g l o b s ter s
,
O ys ter s a re m i s s h a p e n, .
l o n g a n d d ee p , wit h a v e r y thick s he ll T h e i r q ua lity is d a n .
g e r c u s , a n d a v er y s m a ll q u a n tity e v e n a s i n gl e fi s h , p r o d uc e s ,
o n s t r a n g er s a vio l e n t c a th a r tic e ffe ct R e d m u ll e ts ar e a b un .
d a nt a n d v er y o o d T h e r e i s a s p e c ies o f ga r ne t, w ith e no r
m o us p e ct o r a l g
.
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j g
th a n th o s e o f a flyi n g fi s h ; th o ugh I d o n o t fi n d a s th e y e ver
us e th e m a s wi n g s I h av e fr e que n tly s e e n th e m t a k e n o ut o f
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t h e s e a , j u s t b e fo r e o ur wi n d o w s D r i e d c o d , fr o m N e w fo u n d
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l a n d i s t h e c o n s t a n t fo o d d ur i n g L e n t A m o n t h e fi s h p e
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c uli a r t o t h e h a r b o r , th e r e i s o n e o f which I h a v e a r d e xt r a
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o r di n a r y s t o r i es I t is c a lle d a m a m . Whe n y o u n g, it is e at .
e n as
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oo
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fo o d ; b u w h e n o ld , it a tt a i ns an e n o r m o us s i ze
ul v o r a city ; i n s o m u c h th a t th e m o n k s o f S a n B e n t o
e a r fd
fo r m er ly p a id a l a r ge s um o f m o n ey fo r e v e r y o n e d es t r o y e d .
C o l C u nn i ngh a m i n fo r m ed m e , th a t a b o u t s ixtee n y e a r s
. 0
h e r e m e m b e r e d th a t th r ee pe r so ns w er e d e v o ur e d b y it i n iff
fer e n t p a r t s o f th e b a y ; o ne w a s t a k e n i m m e d i a tely a fte r de
s tr oyi n g a m a n , o n t h e s h o r e o f P r a y a G r a n d e, a n d was th en
1 40 U NIV E R S A L T R A V E LLER .
B R A Z IL .
e xhibite d a t t h e cu s to m h o u s e It r e qu i r e d te n me n h e s a i d
-
.
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t o c a r r y it ; a nd it wa s c o v er e d wit h s c al e s a s l a r g e as a d o l “
la r . I c o ul d n o t l e a r n th a t it h a d b e e n l a tter ly s ee n b y a ny
p e r s o n ; b ut th e r u m o r o f it s e xi s te nc e s till d e ter s p e r s o ns
fr o m b a th i n g . T h e b l a ck s w h o a r e e ls e w h er e a m p h ib i o us
,
n e ve r v e ntu r e b e y o n d t h e i r k n e e s ; a nd whi te m e n a r e v e r y
r a r e ly s e e n i n th e w a ter S h a r k s a r e n o t d r e a d e d i n t h e b ay
.
T h e p e o pl e o f R io c a n r a i s e n o t r i g o o r w h e a t t h e m s e lve s , ,
b u t a r e V e ry fo n d o f w h e a t e n b r e a d a n d a r e fa s ti d i o u s a s to ,
its q u a lity .T h e y c o nsu m e fr o m e i gh ty t o o ne h un d r e d th o u

s a n d b a r r e ls o f fl o ur a n n ua lly wh i c h is a l m o s t e n t i r ely s e n t
-
fr o m th e U n i te d S t a te s ; t h o ugh ti ll l a t e ly i t w a s n o t m u ch u s e d .
I t is n o w a s u b s t it ute fo r far i n h a o r m e a l o f m a n d i o c a t h e
, ,
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. e r s o n ly p u r c h a s e a fe w
b a r r e ls c a r o a s a s a m pl e b f r t h y v t u o a
g e o e e e
,
n r e n .
l a r ge q u a n t i ty ; a n d fl o u r o f a n i n fe r i o r q u a li ty c a nn o t b e s o l d .
I n c o ns e q u e n c e o f t h i s t h e wh e a te n b r e a d a t R i o is v e r y ex
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c e lle u t ; i n d e e d I h a v e n e ve r in a ny c o u n t r y m e t b e t te r a n d
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s el d o m s o go o d T h e c o n s u m pti o n , h o w e v e r , i s c o n fi n e d to
.
t h e b e t te r cl a s s e s .
“ T h e fa r i n a c e o u s fo o d o f t h e p oo r i s bl a ck kid n ey b e a n s
,
a nd m a n d i o c a m e a l T h e fo r m er i s a lw ay s p r e p a r e d wit h
.
p o r k fa t ; t h e l a tte r i s a s n o w whi te p o w d e r fr o m t h e p o u n d
-
,
ed m a n d i o c a r o o t a n d e a t e n wit h o u t a ny o t h e r p r e p a r a t i o n
,
th a n d r yi n g a n d gr i n d i n g ; it i s p u t i n to a c a l a b a s h a n d t h e ,
p r e p a r e d b e a n s m ix e d wit h it wh e r e th ey l o o k lik e b l a ck
,
b e e tl e s c r a w li n g i n a h e a p o f li m e M a n d i o c a "is a l s o e a te n
.
wit h c a r n e s e c c o a n d i n t h a t s t a te r a ti o n s o f i t w er e s e r ve d
, ,
c ut t o th e I r i s h T h e b ee f w a s d r y a n d t o u gh a n d th e fl o ur
'
.
,
h a r d a n d gr i tty ; a n d a n I r i s h m a n a fte r w a r d s c o m p l a i n e d t o
’ '
m e t h a t h e go t n o thi n g t o e a t b u t s a w d u s t a n d s o l e l e a t h e r
,
.
T h e y a l s o u s e t h e m e a l o f I n d ia n c o r n wh ic h t h e y c a ll m ilh o ,
b u t i t is m o r e ge n e r a lly giv e n u n gr o u n d to h o r s e s o f wh o s e ,
fo o d it fo r m s a c o n s i d e r a b l e p o r t i o n I t i s o fte n b o il e d wh o l e
.
wi th s u ga r o r t r e a cl e a n d c a ll e d a ng u d e m i lh o it i s a g o o d
,
p ud d i n g .
T h e p eo p le o f R i o a r e m o r e i n t e m p e r a t e in e a ti n g t h a n in
d r i n ki n g P o r t wi n e i s n o t m u c h u s e d b e c a u s e it i s t o o s tr o n g
.
a n d h e a ti n g fo r t h e cli m a t e ; t h a t whic h th e y h o l d i n h igh e s t

e s te e m — a t l e a s t u s e i n t h e g r e a t e s t q ua n t i t i e s is C a t al o n i a n , ,
o f wh i c h t h e r e is c o n s i d e r a b l e i m p o r t a t i o n e ve r y y e a r The .
c o m m o n p e o p l e a n d p a r tic ul a r ly t h e n e g r o e s us e c a x a s o r
, ,
c a ch a ca a n i n fe r i o r ki n d o f r u m d i s till e d fr o m s o m e r e s u lt o f
, .
s u g a r c a ne T hi s i s s o ch e a p th a t fo r e igner s p a r tic ul a r ly s a il or s,
.
,
”
t r e a tly a ddict e d t o it 0 0
g ge .
O f th e fo u r m illi o n s o f i n h a bit a n ts i n B r a z il , fr o m t w o m il
li o n s to tw o m illi o n s a n d a h a l f a r e n e gr o s l a ves , whil e th e
whi te p o p ul a ti o n a r e b ut h a l f a m illi o n, o r n o t m o r e th a n
s o th a t th e fo r m e r e xc e e d th e l a tt e r i n th e p r o p o r ti o n
o f th r e e to o n e T h e i m p o r t ati o n o f s l av es is p u t a t
. e
p r
1 4a U NIV E R S AL T R A VEL L ER .
B R A Z IL .
u s u al o b e j cts fo u n d c h a c o ll e cti o n S e v er a l w o r k s o f
’
in su .
c o n s i d er a bl e m er it b y B r a zili a n a uth o r s h a ve b een i s s ue d fr o m

t h e p r e s s withi n t h e l a s t t w o ye a r s I n P er i o d ic a l s G a .
,
z ettes a n d N e w s p a p er s th e y a r e c o n s i d e r a b ly a d v a n c e d
, , ,
Dr . .
W a l s h s t a tes t h a t in 1 8 28 t h e r e w e r e 1 3 3 p e r i o d ic a l p a p er s
p r i n te d i n th e w h o le p e n i n s ul a o f w h ich tw e n ty fi v e a r e p ub
,
-
lis h e d in B r a zil ; viz fiftee n a t R io th r e e a t B a h i a a n d t h e

.
, ,
r e s t in o th e r pl a ce s T h e s a m e a u th o r r e m a r k s t h a t G e o gr a phy
.
,
i s a s ci e n c e i n w hic h th e B r a zili a n s s e e m m o s t d e fici en t I .
n e v e r s a w i n a n y h o u s e , s a y s h e a m a p e ve n o f t h e i r o w n ,
c o un t ry m u ch le s s O f a ny o th er ; a n d s o m e ti m e s s tr a n ge m is
,
t a k e s a r i s e Wh e n it w a s a n no un c e d in t h e R us si a n c a m
.
,
p ga i n
, t h a t t h e pl a g ue w a s a t B u c h a r e s t,
a c i r c ul ar w a s s e n t
r o u n d a nn o u n ci n g th a t a ll v e s s e ls fr o m th a t p or t w e r e to p e r
,
fo r m a q u a r a n ti n e b e fo re la n di n g p a s s e n ge r s o r c a r go i n a n y
,
“
p ar t o f B r a z i l It wa s ex pl a i n e d th a t B u ch a r es t w a s n o t a
.
p o r t, a n d a s e c o n d ci r c ula r w a s i s s ue d, c o r r e c ti n g th e fi r s t,
by s t a ti n g th a t a ny v e s s el c o m i n g fr o m a ny p ar t in th
,
t er r a n ea n , m us t p e r fo r m q u a r a n ti n e , th er eby i nc l ud i n g S p a i n ,
F r a n c e , a n d I t aly ?
T h e B r a z i li a n s h a ve em a mu s em en ts , a lth o u gh t h e y ar e a
‘
. {
ch ee r ful p e o pl e T h ey a v e a t a s te fo r m us ic , a n d a r e fo n d
o f d a nc i n g T h e y a r e m u ch give n to s e d e nt a ry g a m es o f
.
c ha nce A t p a r t ic ul a r s e a s o ns , t h ey e n ga ge i n s p o r t s O f
.
o us ki n ds , d u ri n which t h ey d el iv er t h e m s elv es u p t o u n r e
g
s t r a i ne d e nj o y m e n t .
A t L e nt, o b s e r v e s a wr it e r , “ th e s tr ee ts w er e gl o wi n g
gr e e n a n d y ell o w h u e s , a s vivid a n d gen e r a l a s t h e p u r pl e o n
t h e h il ls T hi s pr o c e ed e d fr o m v a s t qu a n titi es o f b a ll s o f
.
c o l o r e d w ax , wh ich fill e d t h e s h o ps a n d l a r ge b a s k e t s b e fo r e
t h e d o o r s , o f t h e s h a p e a n d s iz e o f e ggs , c o n t a i n i n g p u r e o r
s c e n te d w a te r I c o uld n o t c o n c e iv e w h a t t h e y w e r e i nt en d e d
.
fo r till I le a r n e d by e x p e r ie n c e i n a fe w d ay s The r a zi l . B ‘
i a n s , lik e a ll th e p e o pl e o f a t r o p ic a l cl im a t e a n d c o n s t it u
t i o n , wh e n t h e m o m e n t o f e nj o y m e n t c o m e s , d e liv e r t h e m s e lv e s
u p t o it with un r es t r a i n e d h il a r i ty T h i s is i n d u l ge d p a r ti e n
.
l a r ly d ur i n g th e i n t r u s o , a j ub il e e w h ic h p re c e d e s L e n t, a n d th e
e gg s w e r e t h e p r i n cip a l p a s ti m e A fr i e n d b r o u gh t m e t o p a y
.
a vi s it, a n d t h e fi r s t s a lut a ti o n w e r e c e iv e d w as a: s h o w e r o f
g r ee n a n d y ell o w e g s p elte d i n o ur fa c e s , by a ll t h e fa i r fe
m a l e s O f th e fa m ily g
V e w e r e th e n i n vi ted to t h e b a lc o n ie s o f
.
t h e wi n d o w s , a n d s a w a ll th o s e i n t h e s tr e et , fill e d wit h gi r l s
p e e pi n g o ut a n d w a tc hi n g th e a pp r o a ch s
o m e vic ti m .
Wh e n a ny ap p e a r e d h e w a s a s s a il e d i n a h d ir e c ti o n s , a n d
r a n O ff b e d e w e d with w a te r , a n d h is h a t a n d s e a t c o ver e d
wi t h g r e e n a n d y e ll o w e gg s h ell s I f h e s to pp e d fo r a m o m e n t
'
w h e nme sa w n o b o d y, a n d t o o k o ff h is h a t to r e m o v e th e w e t,
s o m e l a u g h i n g gi r l , p er ch e d i n a n u pp e r wi n d o w , w a s r e a d y
w ith a b a s i n o f w a te r , w hich c a m e o n h im i n a s h ee t ; i f h e
‘
r an to th e O pp o s ite s i d e to a v o id it, h e r e c eiv e d a n o th e r ; if h e

U NIV E R S A L T R AV E L L E R . 1 43
OK CHA SE .
t o o k t h e m i d dl e o f th e n a r r o w s t r ee t, h e p r o b a bly r e c e iv e d b o th
t o ge th e r B
e l o w , i n t h e s h o p s , a n d b e hg i d h a ll d o o r s , c r o wd s
.
'
of m en d with l a r g e s y r i n ge s a n d ga m a ll as whic h th e y
s oot ,
e j e cte d i n a c o n ti n u e d ci r c ui t i n h is fa c e a n d b o s o m s o t h a t ,
by th e ti m e h e ar r ived a t th e e n d o f th e s t re e t h e w a s a s c o m
l t e l d r e n ch e d a s i f h e w e r e d r a gg e d th r o u gh th e b a y
p e y .
‘fly i n v k
S h o uld h e lik e S wi ft s p a s s e n g e r o e t h e g o d s th e n
’
, , , ,
t ur n i n g s t e p to s c o l d , h e w a s s a l ute d b y cl ap in g o f h a n d s
’
a n d s h o u ts o f l a u ghte r, fr o m a th ou s a n d m e r ry a c e s fr o m al l
th e wi n d o w s r o u n d h i m S o m e ti m e s w e s a w p er s o n s th r o w n
.
d o w n a n d d r e n c h e d with w a t e r a n d p e lt e d with e ggs a l m o s t

t o s u ffo c a ti o n a n d so m e ti m es wh o l e b a s k e ts o f fl o u r w e r e
,
d i s ch a r g e d o n h is w e t b o dy till h e b e c a m e cr u s te d a ll o v e r ;
b l a ck s a n d m u l a tt o es l o o k e xc e e di n gly gr o te s q ue wh e n o r
n a m e nte d i n t hi s w ay T h e B r a zili a n gi r l s a r e n a t ur a lly p e n
.
s i ve l o o ki n g a n d r e t i r i n g ; b u t a t thi s s e a s o n th ey c h a n g e t h e i r
c h a r a ct e r a n d th e i r gr a vity a n d ti m idity a r e fo r th r e e d ays
,
l o s t in i n e x ti n gui s h a bl e m e r r i m e n t ” .
”
M c L u cc o c k i n h is n o t es h a s giv e n th e fo llo w i n a c c ou nt
o f t h e B r az ili a n a m u s e m e n t o f a n o x ch a s e o f whi o h e w as
wit n es s — a s p o r t n ot le s s h az a r d o u a n d e r h ap s n o t m u c h
l e s s r e fi n e d t h a n th e pl e as u r e s o f a n u gli s s ta g h u n t
,
.
“A fte r a r i d e o f th r e e o r fo u r m ile s o n a l a r g e o p e n pl a i n
,
W e r od e ge n tly r o un d to
.
w e fo u nd a b o u t 4 00 h ea d o f c a ttl e .
,
b r i n g th e m i n to a m o r e co m p a c t b o dy, a nd m a d e th e a n i m a l
whic h w as t o b e c h as e d d i s ti n ctly k n o w n t o e v ery i n divid u a l
,
o f th e p a r t O u r s et tl e d o b j e ct w a s to d r ive h i m t o th e h o u s e ;
a n d t o r e n e r th e s p o r t a s c o m pl e t h *
e a s p o ibl
s s e t e l as s o w a s ,
n o t t o b e u s e d u n til th e r e a pp e a r e d a p r o b a b ility th a t h e w o ul d
o th e r wi s e es c a p e S o m e o f th e p e o pl e th e n d a s h e d i nt o th e
.
m i d s t o f t h e h e r d a tt e n tiv e ly o b s e r vi n g th e s el e c te d a n i m a l
,
.
O n e h a l f o f th e o x e n w e r e th us d r iv e n a t o n c e fr o m th e s p o t,
T h e l a s s o is m a de o f n arr o w t h o n gs p l a tt ed in th e s am e w ay as the
b ri dl e s an d is ab o u t s e v e n o r ei gh t y a rds ,o n g O ne e n d o f it is fi rm l y fi x ed.
t o t h e hi n de r p ar t o f t h e s a dd l e gene ral l y o n t h e n h t S i de : a t t h e o t h er s ide

is a n ir o n ri n g abou t t wo i n c he s i n di a m et er T e h o rs e m a n, a bo ut t o u se
,
.
t h e l a s s o, for m s a s o rt o f r u n n i n n o o s e , b y p as s m g a o r t i on o f it t h ro u 0 h
g
t h e r i n g ; t h i s is t a ke n i n t h e r i g l t h a n d, so a s t h a t t e ri n g m ay b e a t t e p
O pp o s i te p a r t o f t h e C i r c l e ; t h e n o o s e i s t h e n s wu ng W i t h c are o v er t h e h e ad,
un t il t h e ex t re m e p a r t o f i t , i n c l u di n g t h e ri n g a cq uir es a co n s ider ab l e m o o
m en t u m T h e i n s tr ume n t, t h us re p ared, a s the m a n ad v an c es t o w ards h is

.
s e l ec ted v ic ti m , I S i n due t i m e d i s c ar ed, a nd c arrie s o il t h e r e m ai nder o f t h e

,
s tring w h i ch b efo r e h un g lo o s e l i n 001 s o n t h e fi nger s o f t h e l eft h a nd, a n d s el

,
do m fai l s t o en t a n gl e t h e b eas t w e ll - tr ai ned h o r s e, t h o ugh a t ta ll s p eed, w h en

.
t h e l as s o i s t h ro w n, i n s t a n t l y s t o ne, an d t ur n in ro un d, p u ll s ag ai n s t t h e a n i
m al w h i c h i s n o w a t t ac h e d t o h i m . f
T h e b a l s are t h r ee in n u m b er, ro un d
a n d n ear l y th ree in ch e s i n di a m e t er Th e ex t er n a l p ar t o f e ac h is a s o r t 0}
.
p ur s e, m ade of h ide, ren de red pl i ab l e b y so akin g : t h e p ur se is fi l l ed wi th

s a n d, a n d t h e ap er t ur e dr a w n c l o s e I n d ryin g, th e l e a t h er c o n t r ac t s , a n d
'
b ec o m es as h ar d as a s to n e T o e ach b a l l a s tr i n g is a t t ach ed, t h r ee o r fo ur

.
fee t l o n g, m ade o f p l a t te d t h o n gs , l ik e t h e l as s o, a n d t h e t h ree s t ri n gs ar e

u n i t ed b a k n o t, a t t w o feet di s t a n ce fr o m t h e b a ll s T h is m a y b e c a ll ed
.
t h e b a n le o f t h e i n s tr um e n t ; fo r t h e p er s o n u s i n g it t akes t h e kno t in h is
h an d, a nd h avrn g giv en i t t h e n eces s ar v el o ci ty, b s w i ngi n g i t o v er h is
h ead Wi t h all h is m i gh t, th ro ws i t at t e l egs o f t e h o rse o r ox. which h
144 U NIVER S A L T RAVELLE R .
B R AZl L .
an d which chose to do s o were permitted to follo w

o th er s , ,
without molestatio n ; t where ver the victim turned a horse , ,
m an met him and stopped his car eer The work w a s easy
,
.
,
until the remaining group was reduced to ab out twenty which ,
then made violent attempts to rej oin their comrades and ,
fiercely attack e d th e huntsman who intercepted them In a .
short time four o f them b eing hard p ressed plunged into some
, ,
watery ground about t wo miles from the ho u se and among ,
t hem was the obj ect o f the chase When driven from th e .
w ater this small number wer e m ore harassed than be fore

and p e r c e iv in gth e ir danger exerted themselves with redouble d
,
,
v iolence S ometimes we were obliged to ride hard and great
.
coolness and address were necessary to preve n t their escape

behind u s and into a wood which we were n o w approaching
,
.
In this la s t res p ect our e ff orts were vain ; they gained thi s,
re fuge and we co uld no longe r act in concert T he wood

,
.
was full o f thick bushes o f myrtle and m any trees spread their ,
arms horizontally seven or eight feet from the ground It was .
a matter o f high gratification as well as wonder to observe , ,

h o w our huntsmen rounded the bushes and bent under th e -
,
branches so as sometimes to hang on the sides o f their horses
,
.
T hou gh u nable to follow I soon encountered our chie f who , ,
had m ade an unsuccess ful cast with his l a s s o and was d is e n

‘
tangling it from the branch es o f a tree I s h all n ever forget .
the ard o r and rapidity with which h e a fterwards dart ed and

wheele d among the trees nor lose the conviction fixed upon ,
my mind wh at execution such men so trained mus t be c a

, , ,
pa h le o f in a c ountry like this My mu sings were soon inter .
r up te d by reaching the beach and seeing at a distance our ,

you ng h ero with th e ox securely attached to his horse by th e
,
l a s s o and leading the captive towards the house
,
T he in s tr u .
ment had gone round h is horns and was fixed close to the ,
crown o f his head T he anim al thus entangled adv anced .
with the most malici o us vexation an d m ade many ferocious ,
e fforts to gore the horse which had be fore pursued and now , ,
led him ; but the wary creature which h ad o ften be fore been ,
yoked to an unnatural and violent m ate kept his eye u pon ,

the ox an d p ulled at the las s o so as to keep it always on the
,
stretch and himsel f two springs in advance In h is p r e c au
,
.
tion he w a s greatly assisted by his rider who w ith equal

, , ,
care watched the maddening spirit o f the beast and gav e

, ,
signals to the horse Convinced at length that his attempts .

, ,
to gore his leader were vain the ox became sullen and w as , ,

partly dragged onward While he was in this mood the hors e .
,
passed to the right o f a detach ed bush and the ox by a sud , ,
h wi h
e st es I th i p g
o s ecur e th b ll g t th tm t di t
n ceer ro r es s e a s o o e u os s an
ll w d ll y p
.
w h i h th
c t i g W ll e s r n h g th l g g
s i a d t;
o an r eac in e e en er a as s ro un I
ly l gh tl y t gl g th tl y mp de
,
an d t h gh p h p
ou er m l
a s on ffi s i en an in e a ni a , su ci en i e
it s fligh t .
T h e c us t o m w as deri ved fro m th e M ar aocat o, a n d o t h er I n di an t ri b es , w h o

l
us ed th e l as so an d b a ls W i t h gr ea t effec t agai n s t M endo n ca, w h en h e landed
,
and fo unded th e c ty o f Bue nos A yres i .

B r a z i lia n Hun ter s .
Th r o wing th e L as s o
. P . 14 3
U NI V E R S A L TR A VE LLER . 1 45
HO R S ES .
den spring got nearly abreast with him on the le ft ; thus th e

, ,
l a s s o was b r ought over his back and he was enabled to e m ,

loy h is utmost might to draw the horse round the bush ; th e
horse also used all his power to counteract this m an oeu vre ;
and thu s the great stren gth o f the las s o was prove d By this .
time the whole party w as a gain co lle c te d and another la s so

, ,
a pplied to assi s t in conducting the c aptive which seemingly , ,

co n s cious th at he was completely subdued walked along quiet ,
ly. A bo a t h ad j ust reached the beach and the p e ople were ,
still on board whe n the treacherous animal as soon as he
, ,
c ame near enough mad e an unexpe cted attack and caus e d
, ,
them to tu mble one over another into the water to the great
, , ,
a mazement o f the spectators .
Returning to the hut a fter a chase o f three hours milk a n d , ,

fruit were ser v ed to us in abundance while the beast was taken ,
from his former bond a ge and tied to a post where I found h im , ,
bello wing with mad nes s and still furiously striving to release ,
himsel f A m a n now came forward with a n instrument called

.
,
a f a ca m s o m e wh at resembling both a large carving kni fe and

,
* -
a short sword ; a n d warning every one to be on his ua r d ,
p assed ne ar the heels o f the e x and ende avo re d by a ack , ,

h anded s troke to hough him T he attempt was clu m sily m ade
, .
,
and the beast though wounded was not disabled A nother
, ,
.
took the instrument and used it with greater e ff ect ; when the
,
ox gave a desperate kick at the operator and snapping the ,
tendon fell on his haunches A third then d rew a sha r p
, .
’
kni fe acro ss his throat ; blood copiously foll ow ed and with a
d eep bellow expres sive o f rage and agony he yielded up h is
, ,
li fe Immediately the people s et about s kinning the beast and
.
,
preparing a part o f him fo r dinner T he former O peration .
was per formed in a workmanlike m anner ; and the skin a s ,

it was taken o fi being care fully s tretche d upon the ground
’
, ,
preserved the flesh from b lood and dirt During this process .
,
fi res had been kindled and had burned down to clear embers , .
S lices o f flesh were then cut o ff from the ribs as the choic es t ,
part fo r the master and his guests and roasted at a fire apart ;
, ,
a fterwa rds th e atten dants helpe d themselves as they please d ,
and cooke d their portion a fter their own modes .
Ho r s es are by fastenin g
t r a i n ed f o r th e ex er ci s es f th e fi eld,
a dry hide to the back p a rt o f t he s a g
dle and allowing it to ,
trail on the ground A s the horse moves the hide rattles and
.
, ,
the noise alarm s him he attempts to fly when it beats a gainst ,
h i s heels and he kicks at it v iolently ; but soon c o n v m c e d
,
a
th at all his alarm and ra ge a re fruitless he learns to be p a ,

t ie nt and quiet In this state a person mounts and com p els
.
,
h i m to move forward ; at first gently a ft erward s at an tu ,
c reased pace He begins wi th trampling upon the h ide ; b ut
.
th i s i ncommodes him perhaps almos t throws him do ,
F ace is tb c Po rtugues e word fo r kn fe of any kind i .
la
1 46 UN IVER S AL TR AVE L LE R ~
B R AZIL .
wards ; he then sets down his feet more care fully a n d sa fely '
T he contrivance induces him also to keep an eye turned o n

th e obj ect behind ; while the rider takes him over rough o r
boggy ground obliging him at th e same time to look forward
, ,
a n d mar k where he is goin g T hus he form s a habi t o f quick .
ly di s cerning danger and avoiding it from whatever quarter , ,
i t m ay come S o much are the Bra z ilian horses in general

.
fenced against alarms that I h ardly ever met with one o f t h e ,

description which we c all skittish .
*
F u n er a ls a r e a m on g and audy displays o f

th e m os t p omp ou s
the people Those o f the better clas s are a ways conducted
.
by night by the light o f large wax tapers the size o f flam

, ,
beaux T hese are borne not only b the friends o f the de

.
ceas ed but by any passin stranger o respectable ap p earance

,
.
F o r this u r p o s e one o f t e c o n d uc to r s generally stands at th e

,
door o f t e house in which the corpse lies and invites the pas
se n ge r s to c ome in and t ake a taper Every wee k at least I .
,
have been in this way arrested as I passe d by ; and as it is ,
deemed not good manners to re fuse 1 latterly learned to pas s ,
over the other side to avoid the neces sity o f either comp lying
,
or d eclining .
T he co ffin is c arried be fore and the taper bearers follow in ,

-
a lon g procession behind to the church where the funeral ser , ,
vice i s read It is there laid on a ca t af lk or pedestal which

. a , ,
stands fo r that p urpose in the middle o f every aisle priests a t

tend who ch ant the funer a l service accompanied by the o r
, ,
gan ; and when this is concluded ei ther the flooring o f the ,
church is raised and the body d eposite d beneath or it is brought
, ,
to the cloisters whe re a small receptacle like an oven is open
, , ,
ed to receive it B e fore it i s so deposited the lid o f the co ffi n

.
,
is raised and a quantity o f qui c k l ime thrown in ; and when
,
-
i t i s decomposed by this process the bones are shut in with a ,

l o ck and key Notwithstanding their preservation o f the
.
bones o f the dead the people are remarkably careless o f the

,
r em ains o f their deceased friends T h eir only concern is .

,
that they shall receive the last rites o f their church which they ,
consider indispensable to the wel fare o f their souls F e w .
o r no relations are present at the interment ; and there is a
g reat indi fference amounting to levity not ,

only among t h e ,
ac q uaintance who attend the funeral but among the clergy
, ,
themselves .
On some occasions o f the funer als o f in fants the co ffi n is an ,
e legant embroidered trunk i n which the child lies enveloped ,
i n ar tificial flowers ; and when placed on the c a t a falk it looks ,

lik e a work box on a ladies dressing table
-
T he cloisters ’ -
.
where they are deposited are remarkably dry and neat kept ,
always fresh with paint and whitewash and generally in a ,
p r ett y garden embe llis hed with parterres a nd aroma t ic fl o
L uccock s N
’
o tes, p p . 224- 7 .
1 48 U NIV E R S AL TR A V E LL E R .
B R AZIL .
T he principal establishment is si tuated on the river Jij ito n

h o n h a a tributary o f the Rio G rande
, A t Mandan a the .
,
river is from three to nine feet deep and about a s broa as the ,
river Thames at Winds o r A t the time Mr Mawe visited th e . .
works they were working at a curve o f the river from which

, ,
the c u r r e n t h a d b e en diverted by mean s o f a canal The deep .
er parts o f the channel were laid dry by means o f ch ain pumps

w o rked by a water wheel and the c a ca lh o was then removed
-
,
s
by means o f machine ry —a s aving o f la b o r rarely thought o f

in a l and were that labor is per formed by n egroes a n d which ,
had o nly recently b een intro duced b y Dr C amara The stra . .
t um o f c a s ca lh o c onsists o f similar m aterials to that found in

the gold district In m any parts on the m a r in o f the river
.
are large conglomerate ma sses o f ro u nd p eb b es ornamented

,
by oxyde o f iron w hich s o metimes e nvelope gold and dia

,
monds Durin th e d r y season su ffi cient c a s ca lh o is dug u p

.
,
to occup y all t e hands e m ployed d uring the rainy months .
T h e me thod o f washin g t h e c a s ca lh o is thus described ,

A shed is erected i n th e form o f a para ll e l o ram twenty g ,
five or thirty y ards long and about fi ftee n wid e consis ting o f
, ,
u pright posts which support a r o o f thatched with long grass
, .
D own the middle o f the area o f this shed a current o f water ,
i s conveyed through a c anal c overed with strong pla n ks o n ,

which th e c a s c a lh o is laid two or three feet thick On t h e .
other sid e o f th e a r ea i s a fl o o r ing o f p lanks fro m four to fi ve ,
yards lon g imbedded i n clay extending th e w h ole length o f

, ,
the shed and h aving a slope from th e c anal o f t hree or fo ur

, ,
inches to a yard This floori ng is divid e d int o ab o ut twenty
.
compartments or troughs each a b out three feet wide by means

, ,
o f planks placed on the e dge Th e upp er ends o f all thes e .
troughs (here called can o es ) c ommunicate with the canal and

, , ,
are s o formed that water is admitted into them between two
,
p lanks that are about an inch separate T hrough this open .
ing the current falls about six inches into the trough and may ,
b e dire cted into any part o f it o r stopped at pl e asure by means , ,
o f a small quantity o f clay A long the low e r ends o f th e .
t roug h a s mall c hannel is dug to c arry o ff the water

, On the .
hea p o f ca s ca lh o at equal distances are plac ed three high ,

c hai r s fo r the o cers or overs eers A fter they are seated .
,
the n egr oes enter the troughs each provided with a rake with ,
a sh o rt h andle wi t h w h i c h he rakes int o the trough about fi fty
, z
o r eighty pounds o f cascalho The water being then let in .
u p o n it th e ca s calho is S pread abroad and continually raked

, ,
u p to the head o f the trou gh s o as to be kept in constant mo ,
t ion . T his ope r ation is per formed fo r the space o f a quarter

o f an h o ur ; till the water be gins to run clearer h avi n g wash ,
e d the earthy particles away T he ravel like matter is raked .
-
U p to the end o f the tr ough ; the arger stones are thrown

o ut and a fterwards those o f in ferior size ; then the whole is
,
e xamined with great care fo r diamonds W hen a negro find s .
one h e imme diately stands uprig h t and claps his hand then
, , ,
U N
IVER S A L T R A VELL E R . 1 49
D I A M O N D “A SH I N G '
.
e xtends th em holding the gem between his fore finger a nd

,
th umb A n overse er receives it from him and deposites it in a
.
,
b o w l suspended from the centre o f the structure hal f full o f

water In this vessel all the d iamon d s found i n the course o f
.
the day are placed and at the close o f the work are taken o u t
, ,
and delivered to the principal o ffic er who a fter the y have , ,
been weighed registers th e particulars

,
.
When a negro is so fo rt unate as to find a diamond o f the

weight o f an o ct a va carats ) much ceremony takes place ; ,
h e is cro wned with a wreath o f flowers and carried in p r o c es ,
sion to the administrator who give s him his freedom by p ay ,
ing his owner fo r it He also rece ives a present o f new clothe s
.
,
a n d is permitted to work o n his o w n account When a stone .
o f eight or ten carats is found the negro receives two n e w ,

s hirts a complete new suit a hat and a h andsome kni fe
,
For , ,
.
s maller stones o f trivial a m ount proportionate premiu m s are ,
g i ven .
“Many pre ca utions are taken to p r event the ne roes from

g
e mb ez zling diamonds A lthough they work in a bent p o sition
.
,
and cons equently ne ver know whether the overseers are
watching them or not yet it is easy fo r them to omit gathering
, ,
a n y which they s e e and to p la c e t h e m in a c orner o f the trough
, ,
fo r the purp o se o f secreting them at leisure hours ; to p r event
wh ich they are frequently changed while the operation is go
,
ing on A word o f comm and bein given by the overseers

.
,
th ey instantly m o ve into each other s troughs so that no o p ,
p o r tun i ty o f collusion can take plac e I f a negro be suspected .
o f having swallowe d a diamond he is confined in a strong ,

room unti l th e fact c an be ascertain e d Formerly the punish .
,
m ent inflicted on a negro fo r smuggling diamonds was con ,

fi s c a tio n o f h is person to the state ; but it being thought too
hard that the owner should su ffer fo r the o ffence o f his s ervan
t h e penalty has been commuted fo r personal imprisonment an
ch astisement T his is a much lighter punishment than that
.
which their owners or any white m an would su ffer fo r a simi

lar o ffence ” .
A fter spending se veral days at Ma u danga Mr Mawe was ,

.
c onducted to the d iamond works at Monteiro two miles up ,

the river and at th e distance o f a league further to the gold
, , ,
mines o f C arrapatos Here he was shown a heap o f c as ca l
.
,
h o estimated to be worth 10 000l
, In removing this heap from ,
.
the bed o f th e river 4 00 negroes had b een employed three

,
months ; and to wash it would occupy 1 00 men fo r three ,
months more ; the e x pense o f both O perations amounting to

about 1 5001 While M r Mawe was here six negroes in th e
. .
,
, ,
co u rse o f four hours obtained fro m about a ton o f c a s ca lh o
, ,
nearly twenty ounces troy weight o f gold T his was estee m -
.
ed a very rich place and such circumstances are o f rare oc

,
c urr ence .
S ever a l n a t ive are attered over th e r emote

I nd
18 i an t r i b es sc
[ 50 UN IVER S A L T RAVELLER .
B R A ZIL .
a
rts o f Bra z il and are said to be fe roci o us and murderou s
ghe most power ful and di s tinguish e d o f these tri b es are the
, .
G ua ycur us F u r i es and B ot u cud o es

, , The first o f these are .
th e most warlike and savage ; the last t h ou h ferocious and ,

r
,
according to some aut horities canni b al are t e most singular , .
T he name Botucudo was given them b y the P o rtugu ese on ,

a cc o unt o f the large pieces o f wo o d which they Wear inserte d ,
i n each ear and the under lip

,
S ome o f these plug s whic h .
are w o r n in th e m o uth a r e fo ur inches in diameter T he e p .
c rati o n o f in s erting it is u s ually per formed upon children ; when

,
they are seven or eight y e ars o ld F o r this p urpose th e .
l obes o f the ears and the l o wer lip are stretched ; the hole s
a r e then made with a shar p p o int e d s ti c k or skewer and ,
v e ry small p iec e s o f wood are at first in s erted which a fter ,
ward s give place to larger and la r ger ti ll th e d esired elonga ,
t ion is per fec ted T he wood used is that o f t h e ba r r i g ud o
.
,
or w o ol tree which is li ghter t h an cork and when care fully
-
, , ,
dried be fore the fi r e bec o mes ve r y white E xtremely light
,
.
h owever as these pl ugs are they weigh down the li p in o ld

, ,
per s ons ; in younger ones they give it a horizo ntal d irection , ,
o r a little raised the lip itsel f ap p earing o nly like a thin ring
,
e n c irc ling th e b o to q ue T hese plugs m ay be removed at
.
p leasure ; the lip then falls a n d shows the lo w er teeth throug h

,
the hole T he constant pressure and friction o f the botoqu e
.
,
however soon displaces the teeth o f the under j aw and b e
,
-
,
tw een twenty and thirty the Botucud o has fr e quently non e ,
to sho w T he i r nati o nal orna m ent i s m ore o ver e x tremely
.
, ,
t roublesome at meals and render s the op e ration o f eating a
, ,
s p ectacle not a little d is gu s tin
T he other ornaments o f the % o tuc udo es a r e necklaces made ,
o f h ard b erri es or th e teeth o f ani m al s which are w o rn chiefly ,

by the women and diadem s or bunches o f feathers whic h
, ,
s ometimes distingu ish their chie fs T hey als o occasionally .
p aint their bodies bl a ck and their faces red it is not stated

,
‘
whether this is their full dress or their military costume but , ,

i t heightens the f a r o u ch e e ffect o f their appearance Roun d .
the neck every Botucudo wear s attached to a strong cord

, , ,
his most pr e ciou s j ewel a kni fe U nlike th e indigenous tribes
,
.
o f Peru and Mexico they appear to have n o notion o f any o r

,
n a m enta l arts or manu facture s Indolence is a predominant .
tr ait in their character notwi th s tanding that they are capable

,
o f s o extraordinary a degr ee o f physical ex e rtion ; but their
i ndolen c e doe s not degenerate into torpor fo r adds Prince , ,
M aximilian they are gay facetious and ready to converse

, , , .
T heir huts and utensils resemble those o f the F ur ies except ,
t hat th e B otu c u d o e s d i fl e r from them as well as from the

’
g r e a ter par t o f the S outh A merican tribes in not sleeping in ,

n ets or hammocks but on the e n nd the bark o f trees s up
, ,
c
p lyin g them w i th a rude bed hey have no canoes nor any.

,
n otion o f navigation ; b ut S o uthey is mista ken in rep r esenti ng
th at they c an n o t s wi m .
1 52 NIVER S A L T R A VELLER U .
P ER U Q
.
fore there is carried to P eru the most splendid furniture o f

,
e very kind from the first rate workshops o f France E ngland
, , ,
Germany and Italy Gold and silver are employed pro fusely
,
.
in fitting out the trappings o f their h o r s e eq uip age and in fur ‘
,
n is h in g their houses the vessels in the mos t common use o f ,
the kitchen and bedchamber being m ade o f silver T heir , .
houses contain a drawing room and dining—room furnished -
with clocks ch andeliers looking glasses & c o f which they

, ,
-
,
.
are very fon d and a room fo r a li b rary T he d rawing rooms

, .
-
o f the nobility are covered with velvet e mbroidere d with gold ; ,
they have tables o f solid silver and th eir window curtains , ,

which are o f velvet are fringed with gold lace T heir tables
, .
are covered with a great pro fusion o f dishes cooked a fter the ,
French and S panish mode T hey eat abundance o f sweet .
m e ats made from the fine fruits o f the country

,
A t t h e t ab les .
o f the nobility there are always a great number o f guests call

,
“
ed om m en a les
c
”
T his mode o f li fe which is owing to the
s .
,
genero us an d hosp i t able character o f the creoles who are born ,
to independent fortunes o ften degenerates into waste ful pro ,
d i ga lity and dissipation T hey are inveterate gamblers win .
,
ning and losing a moderate fortune in a single night In the .
interior cities where there are no theatres or public places o f

,
amusement to which the wealthy and idle can resort to kill

,
time they fly to the card table to rid themselves o f ennui that
, ,
tormenting fo e to the children o f fortune in the S outh C ards .
are the usual instruments o f this vicious sport which h as al ,

ways been encouraged b y the S panish government as they ,
enj oyed the monopoly o f their sale .
T h e l a di esf in a very splendid

o Pm anner wear
er u d r es s ,
ing the m ost fine cambrics and laces o f Flanders and other ,
ric h stu ffs o f E urope ; their wardrobes are filled with these
costly articles T hey are pro fuse in the use o f per fumery
.
,
which is manu factured in great delicacy and per fection by the

nuns But what principally attracts their attention is j e w el ry
.
,
T he E uropean l adies when they arrive here present a singu ,

‘
lar contrast to the ladies o f the countr y T he P eruvi an lad ie s .
co ve r themselves with j ewels every lady generally wears t w o

th ousand dollars worth at least such a s rings pearl necklaces , , , ,
combs studded with brilliants finger rings o f go ld a n d bril ,
liants and rosaries o f pearls and diamonds T h i s renders the

,
.
d i ff erence very striking and the Peruvians c all the E uropean ,

”
ladies C h ap eton a la ton a d a —copper women .
,
T h e ftI es z i z
‘
o es are d es cend a n ts f
o wh i t es a nd I n d i a ns , and
form the third class in Peru T hey are generally p o s s es s e d o f ‘
moderate fortunes ; they carry on t h e internal commerce o f the

country and are the superintendents o f the great possessions
,
o f the men o f wealth T heir education is generally li mited to .
r eading and writing although they have a thirst fo r knowledge , ,
a nd are anxious to obtain a liberal educ ation T hey are d is .

U NIVER S A L T RAVELLER . 1 53
C H O L OS — BU LL
.
-
B AI T I N G .
tinguis h e d fo r the vivacity o f their intellec t and those fe w w h o ,

are well ed ucated are superior to a ll the o t h e r classes T hey
,
.
are more attached to the Creoles than to th e E uropeans and ,

di ffer v er y little fro m them ; and although the r educati on is '
re gular they supply the deficiency by the quickness o f the i r

,
parts T heir dress is very similar to that o f the Creoles or
.
S paniards .
T he C h o los are the descendan ts o f Mesti z oes and the In

dians T hey h ave little or n o educati on and c an scarcely
.
,
s peak the S panish language T heir complexion is darker tha n

.
that o f ei ther o f the preceding classes and more a greeable ,

and expressive ; with small but p ier c in black eyes and small ,
b eard T heir dress is a short sailor j ac et or roundabout; a n d

.
breeches without s to c kin s ; and with a square piece o f clot h

like a shawl worn over t e shoulders crossed on the breast
, , ,
and one end thrown over the le ft shoulder T he women dress .
a fter the fashion o f th e Creole ladies in fine colored woollens , ,

instead o f silks without bonnets covering their heads wit h
, ,
shawls T he di fferent ranks o f society in this countr y may al
.
ways be known by their dress T he Cholo women a re the .
ch amber m aids and nurses o f the wealthy C reoles and S pan

he m e n are generally the mech anics o f the countr y ,
u nderstanding the art o f dying and o f making gold and silver
,
lea f which are a rticles o f reat profit and demand T hey
, .
a r e miners and are equall

y s ilful in this as in every other de
,
p a r t m e nt o f industry .
T he Cholos are very fond o f gymnastic exercises and bu ll ,

b a i ti n g They have great stren h and agility o f body and
.
,
delight in fighting wild beasts hey display the same sereni .
ty and activity in the bull feasts o f the country as in war Bull .
b aiting is a c ommon diversion in Peru as in all the S panis h ,

d ominions and the Cholos particularly delight in it taking a n
, ,
a ctive part in the per formance .
T he per formances open by a fierce bull appearing in the

a rena T he first a th leter receives the fi l l lO U S beast on horse
.
‘
b ack with a pike o f three yards in length with which he stabs

, ,
him i n the head and neck to irritate him to greater fury ; t h e
b east foaming at the m outh and bellowing in a m ost fright ful ,
manner A fterwards seven or eight m en enter on foot with

.
, ,
small sticks lo aded with rockets which are dis c h a r e d at the ,
o
b ul b A quarter of an h our is thus spent in horri d c ombat

:r
,
when a man e nters with a large sword to despatc h the h al f
dead a nimal In these sports men and horses are not u n fr e
.
quently slain S ometim es the C holos mount astride o f t h e

.
bull and goad him with spears at the s ame time playing
, ,
upon the guitar ; and they will steadily and firmly m aintai n
the i r posmon a s well as i f mounted on horseback n o twith
.
,
Q ta n d in g the furious and des erate l un es o f the torm ente d
p p g
a ni mal
o
.
1 54 U NIVER S AL T RAVE L LER .
P ER U .
come ne x t in order In Peru

Th e E u r op ea n S p a n i a r ds .
,
t here are probably between 7 000 and 8000 but it is impossi b le ,
to tell the precise number as no ce n sus is ever taken O f these
, .
,
m any come out as o fficers under the government ; others a s
private adventurers who accumulate large fortunes by a rigid
,
economy and o ften by intermarriage with the daughters o f
,
the wealthy merch ants and planters o f the c ountry T he most .
s tupid and ignorant S paniard i s re ferred to the C reoles who ,

are called idlers and gamblers hey h old exclusively all the .
lucrative o ffices and enj oy the favor and protection o f the

,
government and monopolize all the foreign commerce ; they
,
are continually in contention with the creoles and they ,
mutually hate and despise each other T hey are warmly and .
s tubbornly attached to th ir native country and in the late

e
,
r evolution they frequently burst asunder the bonds o f natural
a ff ection and conjugal love ; fathers separatin g fro m their
s ons ,
and husbands from their wives A ll the i r educ ation .
consists in reading, writing and the elements o f arithmetic ; ,
and their religion is a blind and bigoted devotion to popery .
T h e N eg r o es are comparativel y an insignificant portion o f

the popul ation o f Peru They are princip ally slaves , and are
.
owned more fo r ostentation than use T hey follow their .
m asters and mistresses in rich dresses to church and to p ublic ,
amusements T hey are not so much an article o f commerce

.
in the interior o f Peru as in Buenos A yres Lima and Moque

, , ,
u e a ; b ut when once introduced into a family they regularly

g ,
descend from father to son On the Pacific coast from A rica .
,
to Lima slaves are numerous and on the sugar plantations
, ,
in the breweries and manu factories they are treated with great ,
s everity ; to send a negro to M o q u e gue a is in h is ima gination , ,

t o send him to the in fernal regions .
are not numerous ; they are generally free

T h e M u l a tt o es ,
and of bad character T hey are much addicted to thieving ;
.
are sycoph antic in their manners and very submissive and ,

obsequious to the whites T heir occupation is generally in .
the fields and mines T he prisons o f the country ar e very

.
commonly tenanted by these persons while an Indian is rarely ,

seen in them In Lima a n d on the coast o f Peru the mulat
.
, ,
toes di ffer from those o f the interior bei n g better educated , ,
an d possessed o f considerable property .
The P er u vi a n are generally o f middle stature and

I n d ia n s ,
w ell proportioned their general complexion is a co p per color ,

although in the warmer regions they are as fair as the p eople
o f the S outh o f E urope T hey h ave long black h air which
.
,
they wear loose on their sho u lders when attending upon reli ,
g io n s exercises ; they have n o beards they possess grea .

muscular strength which is owing to their temperate mode o f
,
li fe and constant exercise ; all the heavy work o f the countr y
1 56 U N IV E R S AL TRAVE L L E R .
P RU E .
l a rly in irri ation In some districts water is conveyed in

.
,
a queducts 0 stone with reat facility fo r a distance o f twenty

, ,
miles T hey are not s u j ce t to diseases like the E uropean
.
S paniards ; an Indian o f thirty is called a boy ; they are never ,

a ffl icted with the toothache and never wear spectacles T hey , “
possess a peculiar talent at following the track o f their own do

me s tic animals ; if a llama escapes from its flock its owner ,
will pursue it d istin guishing its footsteps from those o f every
,
other animal o f the same species fo r any distance ; they are ,
very fond o f dogs and keep great numbers — a single Indian

,
sometimes forty T hey are remarkable fo r their fidelity to
.
their masters and preserve with great care every thing intrust
,
e d to them ; they never steal are good husbands and fathers , ,
kno w no dissolution o f the marriage bonds never forget an ac t ,
o f kindness and are naturally generous and hospitable
*
.
,
T he principal source o f wealth to Peru is its m ines ; these

are worked by a very di fferent clas s o f persons from those o f
Mexico In the latter country mining is carried on by er
.
,
sons o f fortune and d istinction on a great sca le ; but in er u ,
the miner is generally an adventurous speculator who trades ,
with borro wed funds and is subj ect to great disadvantages ,
.
T he ores are extremely rich yielding from five to fi fty pounds ,

o f silver fo r every hundred weight o f ore
,
T he annual mean .
p roduce o f the gold and silver mines o f Peru Humboldt est i ,
m ated at o f dollars Per u is the only part o f S pan .
ish A merica which produces qu i cksilver in abundance ; it is

found in whitish masses resem b ling ill b urnt brick T he fa -
.
mous mercury mine o f G u a n c a n elic a is situated in the mount ,

ain o f S anta Barbara T he bottom o f this m ine is . feet
above the level o f the sea ; so th at the m iners work in a point
feet higher than the summit o f the peak o f T eneri ff e .
sel d om flouri shes in mi n ing countries ; this is

Ag r i cu ltu r e
pre eminently true o f Peru Its soil is far from being fertile
-
.
,
and the fe w advantages which it possesses are sadly neglected ,
.
Many o f t h e towns on the western coast besides Lima are , ,

obliged to depend on C hili fo r their provisions .
Th e Peru is not extensive Its e x ports are

co m m er c e o f .
gold and silver wine bran dy sugar Jesuits bark fine wool
, , , , ,
o f the vi cu n n a or sheep o f the A ndes &c

,
T he importati on s ,
.
are E uropean goods live stock provisions furniture tallo w , , , , ,

indigo &c Its trade is carried on with E urope the E ast I n
,
.
,
dies Mexico Guatemala Chili and the provinces o f Rio d e
, , , ,
la Plata .
Among the a m us ements o f the Peruvians are dancin g mu ,
s ic b ull fi gh ts
,
and cock fi gh ting T he mean s o f ed uc a ti o n
-
,
-
.
t
L e ter s on t h e U i
n ted P rov nces i of S outh Amer ca i .
B otuc udoes— I n dz a n s
'
f
o B r a z il . P 150
. .
158 U NIVER S AL T R A V ELL ER .
BO LI V I A .
mules , thous ands o f which may be seen o f a mornin gwin din g

their way towards the city with their burdens .
T his city is much frequented by strangers from di ffere nt

p arts o f the country ; it is a place o f great gayety and dissi
p a t ion T here are no theatres and the principal amusem ents
.
,
fo r all cl asses is gambling ; and faro banks and billiard tables -
are scattered all over the city T he city is immensely rich .
are coined every day the year ,

ro s
*
are extremely pro fuse in their ex p e
their enormous wealth with the same libe
is p o ur e d i n to th e ir la p A s the source o f t .
inex haustible mines and i f poor to d ay the m ay be rich to

,
-
,
morrow their h abits become es s entially di erc u t from those
,
o f the merchant or m anu facturer whose profits depend upo n ,
c alculation and economy .
T he m anu factures o f this city are in a wretched state b e ,

ing confined princi p ally to the making o f leather hats and , ,
tools from imported steel which is sold at an enormous price , .
T he leather is m ade from goat—skins which are o f superio r ,
quality and very abundant here G old lea f is also m a n u fa c .
t ur e d in great quantities T his article is much used in the

.
churches and the candl es even are gilded be fore they are
,
lighted ; and in the pr ivate houses o f the rich the lea ves o f ,
the flowers which they h ave in great abundan ce in their d raw

ing room s are o ften gilded with gold lea f T here are no car
-
,
.
r i a ge s in this city and when the ladies take the air it is on the
, ,
backs o f horses or mules or in s e dan ch airs which are very , ,
c ommon T here are persons here whose pro fession it is to

.
teach the mules and horses to travel with an easy gait fo r the ,
l a dies There is another mode o f tr a v e llin g which is curious

.
,
a chair is fixed on poles wh ich are laid across the backs o f

two m ules and in which two or three persons frequently ride
,
.
T he C ountess o f C asa Real a fe w years ago attempted to in , ,
tr o d uc e coaches into t he city but the first time her carri age ,
was drove into the street it w as fairly ran a way with by the ,
mules and dashed to pieces against the church T he c ity i s
,
.
situated on the si d e o f the lower part o f the mounta in in the ,

valley at the foot o f it and is altogether to o s te ep a n d irregular
,
to admit o f wheel c a r r ia ges t

h as rendered
Th e s il ver m in e f o un d i n th e m o u n t a in o f P o tos i
this place celebrated throughou t the world It was discovered .
i n 1 54 5 by a Peruvian Indian named Hu a lp a who in pursu

, , ,
in g some goats up the mountain laid hold o f a bush whose , ,
I n M ex ico , th e Az og u er os , acc o r din g t o Hu m b o dt, are m in ers , o r t h o se l

l
wh o a re em p o yed i n t h e am a gam atio n o f m et als l I n P er u t h es e p erso n s ar e .
cal led B en efi c i a do r es .
’
t P az o s L e t ter s on S o uth A m eric a .
U NIVE R S A L T R A V E LLER . 1 59
P O T OS I .
r oots gi ving way d isclosed a large vein o f silver For a time

,
.
,
Hualpa concealed the knowledge o f his disco very even from
his friends — but his sudden and abounding wealth exciting the
suspicions o f his Indian friends they at length induced h i m to ,
reveal the secret to them Not long a fter Upon an occasion .
,
o f quarrelling with Hual p a the latter made known the exist ,
ence o f the mine to his m aster who was a S paniard It was ,

.
immediately re gistered and has been wrought from that date ,
to the present time S uc h is the common story o f the manner

.
in which this mine was first discovered : but Pazo s in his letters
“
on S outh A merica states th at in Potosi the p eop le say the first ,
discoverer was not Hualpa but P o to c c h i Potosi or P o to c si , , , ,
from whom the mountain takes its name ” .
T h e q u a n t i ty which h as been obtained from the

o
f s i l v er
m inesof P otosi can probably never be accurately estim ated .
It has been immense and though the mines are n o t so produc ,

t ive as formerly millions are yet annually obtained
,
T he fo l .
lowing is the estimate o f Bell o f the produce o f these mines , ,

t o the year 1 8 03 .
Y ear s . P o un ds S terling
F ro m 1 54 5 to1 5 56
1 5 56 t o1 578 53 .
1 5 7 8 to1 7 36 1 78 . cd .
1 736 to 1 7 89
1 78 9 to 1 803 ~
Y ear s M arks P o u n ds S ter ing l
l
. . .
T o t a 1 11 2 58 ye ar s 1 05
ll l
.
A o w a n ce o t t h e v a ue of t h e
1as t r e b efore 1 6 00
A d o ne fo ur t h o f th e a bov e
l
t o t a r e gi s t er ed p roduc e fo r
co n t r ab a n d
T ot a l o f r egis t er ed an d u n r e
1s ter ed p ro du ce e x t r ac t ed
ro m t h e m i n es o f P o t o s i,
fr o m 1 54 5 t o 1 803 -
4d .
“
T he most flourishing period o f the mines o f Potosi during ,
the period from 1 556 to 1 789 was that from 1 58 5 to 1 606 , .
For several successive years the royal fi fth amounted to ,
dollars which supposes a produce o f, or

marks according as we estimate the piastre at 1 3 5 or
,
8 reals equivalent to , or dollars A ft er .
1 6 06 the produce gradually diminished especially since 1 6 9 4

, .
,
From 1 606 to 1 6 88 the annual produce was never below
,
m arks or ,dollars During the latter h a l f o f the 1 8 th .
century it generally supplied from

, to m arks ,
a yearly produce this too considerable to allow us to advanc e , ,

w i t h Robertson that these mines are no longer worth work
,
m g They are n o t indeed the first in the known world but
.
, , ,
they may sti ll be ranked immediately a fter those o f G u a n ax
uatn I n Me x l c o
, T hat they do not yield so much as formerl y ,
1 60 U NIV E R S A L T R A VE L LER .
BO LI V I A .
is not at all owing to their exhaustion but to the ignorance o f

’
the S panish miners by whose unskil ful mana e m e n t most o f

,
the pi ts are allowed to remain full o f water team engines .

,
the powers o f which are so well understood in thi s country ,
are here wholly unknown In the opinion o f Helms the .
,
mines o f Potosi might easily be m ade with moderate skill and ,
m anagement to yield ,
or even dollars '
annually In addition to. Indians employed as miners ,

there are llamas and mules employed in carry , ,
ing the ore from the mountain o f Potosi to the am algamation

works ” .
Th e p r oc es s of se
p is thus
a r a ti n g th e m eta ls f r om th ei r or es
“
described by W ilc o c k e : T he ores are first reduced to a fine
p owder or flour by hammers ; sometimes in order to render
them m ore friable they are previously roasted in an oven or
, ,
fu rnace T he powder is si fted thro u gh fi ne iron or copper
‘ '
sieve s which are large and handled by four or five Indians ;

,
, ,
the fine powder is taken away fo r amalgamation and the coarse ,
is retur n ed to the mill T he ore is sometimes pulverized dry
.
,
and sometimes with water ; i f dry it is a fterwards wet and , ,
well kneaded with the feet fo r a considerable time which i s ,
done by the Indians T he mud is then laid upon a floor in
.
square parcels o f a foot thick each containing about 2 500 ,

weight and these masses are called cu er p s or bodies On
,
o .
these heaps about 2 00 pounds o f common salt are thrown ,

w hich is moulded and incorporated with the metalli c mud fo r
two or three days A fter this the proportion o f m ercury
.
,
which is j udged proper is added to the mass T he quantity ,
.
o f m e r c u r y used depends upon the supposed richness o f the ore

“
.
T hey generally allow from four and a hal f to six pounds o f

mercury to one pound o f silver T he m asses are now stirred .
eight or ten times a d ay in order to promote the chemical a o

tion and to accelerate the amalgamation o f the mercury and
,
silver ; and fo r this purpose lime is also frequently added and , ,
sometimes lead or tin ore In cold weather this process o f .
am algamation goes on slowly so that they are o ften obliged ,

to stir the mass during a month or six weeks When the
,
.
silver is supposed to be all collected the m ass is carried to the ,

vats ma d e o f stone or wood and lined with leather into which
, , ,
a current o f water is directed to wash o ff the earth T here ,

.
are commonly three vats throug h which the mineral is passed ,
and the same process is per formed in each When the water .
r uns o ff clear the am algam is found at t h e bottom o f the vats

,
.
T his is put in a woolle n bag and hung up fo r the qu i cksilver ,
to drain out ; it is then beat with flat pieces o f wood and press ,
ed by a weight laid upon it ; when as much o f the quicksilver

as can be got out by this m eans is e x pelled they put the paste ,
or residuum into a mo u ld o f wood made in the form o f a p y ,
ramid at the bottom o f which is a copper plate full o f holes
,
a fter it has become hard the mould is taken o ff and the mas s ,
1 62 NIVER S A L T R A VELLER
U .
B U EN OS AY R E S .
“from the latitude in which this city is situated that the fac es
,
and general appearance o f the natives would partake o f a

dusky hue ; as regards the m ale sex this is c er tai nly th e c as e , .
th ough here and there the reverse is seen O f the females .

,
however many can boast a count enance o f roses and lilies
,
equal to those o f a colder clim ate A mo n gst the mulatto cast .
,
there are some pretty girls I h ave noticed that some d i s tin c .
tions are kept u p the word m u la tto be ing o ften used as a term
,
o f reproach this is illiberal One or t wo families o f red .
h aired childre n are rather remarkable in a country where the

darker hue pre d ominates I really thought they were o f S cotch .
extraction till I was in formed to the contrary ” .

,
It is rarely we see in Buenos A yres a person marked with

, ,
the small pox vaccination being generally practised ; and
,
there are very fe w de formed people Indeed the generality .
,
o f them may be called ha ndsome T he young men are well .
grown possess good figures and their m anners render them

, ,
truly agreeable .
Faces may be seen here o f female beauty worthy a painter § ’

,
study — the intelligent dark eye polished forehead and persons , ,
moulded by grace itsel f E ngland is called the lan d o f beauty
.
,
and it deserves its name ; but beauty is not peculiar to E nglan d
alone Buenos Ayres contains within its walls as much love
.
li n es s as im agination can dream o f .
T he stately elegance o f walk fo r which the S panish ladies ,

are so remarkable is in no place more conspicuous than i n
,
.
Buenos A yres and it i s not c onfi ned to the upper class — fe

m ales o f all descriptions possess it ; one m u st there fore con
c lu d e it not to be an acquired accomplishment I f my fair .
countrywomen wo uld deign to imitate them in this respect ,
and get rid o f that ungrace ful postman like pace t hey now -
h ave I should love them a ll t h e bet ter

,
.
T he inhab itants possess a h appy medium between French

vivacity a n d E n glish reserve A n E nglishman feels at home .
w ith them fo r sh ou ld he be deficient in the language he need ,

not fear that his blu nders will be lau ghed at In sickness .
,
they are proverbial fo r their kind attent ion as many o f my ,
co untryme n h ave e x perienced preparing every little delicacy ,
they think will please It is only to k n o w these people to e s

.
,
teem the rh .
The enthusias m with which th e S paniards regard the female

sex like m os t other things h as d oubtless been exaggerated
, , , ,
.
In Buenos A yres i f they h ave not exactly caught th 1 s e nth u s i

,
asm they have done better their attentions are founded on
,
real respect to the virtues o f the sex and are there fore more ,
likely to last .
T he character given to the S paniards o f all descriptions , ,
fo r j ealousy o f their females must have been either fabulous , ,
or a great change h as taken place fo r n o th m g a p p r o ac h m g to ,

it can be observed in their descendants here The gentlemen .
conduct themselves with the mos t marked polite n ess tow a r d s

U NIV ER S AL TR A VELLER . 1 63
H A B IT S AN D M A NN E R S .
the females paying them the greatest attention and respect I

-
,
.
h ave heard it asserted that they m ake negligent husbands In ,

.
e very populou s city no doubt m any o f this class are to be , ,

found : but those Buenos A y r e a n hus b ands whom I h ave the
leasure o f knowing seem devotedly attached to their wives , ,
e h a v in g with a tenderness not every day found even in E n g

land that land o f do m estic felicity
,
.
T he ladies appear equal in a fl e c tio n ; and are kind and ten ’
der mothers It is pleasing to see the care and fondness they

.
bestow on their children A stranger need not b e a day in .
Buenos A yres without discovering this and such traits S peak ,

volumes T hey d o not follow the unmotherly practice o f put
.
ting their in fants out to nurse thinking it no disgrace to suckle ,
their own o ff spring In my opinion there is as fair a propor .

,
tion o f married happiness in this city as can be found in those ,
that bear a name o f bein g more domesticated .
T he compliments o f s a lut a tio n are much the same as in E n g

land with the gentlemen v iz the good old h earty sh ake o f the
, ,
.
hand T he French embrace o f the males kissing each other

.
, ,
is n o t followed ; fo r which I am better pleased Much a s I .
esteem my friends o f B uenos A yres I wis h no other than fe ,
male lips to touch my cheek T he sal utation o f the females .
,
on bidding adieu fo r long j ourneys or on ret urning from one ,
is kissing and embracing each other ; in this respect they d if ,
fer but littl e from B ritish fem ales — p erh aps a little more fe r
vent I have seen ladies whe n returned fro m a voyage to
.
Monte Video h ug their old black servant who h as c ome to

,
meet them on the beach wit h a ll the ardor o f a ff ection so d if ,

fe r e n t from our notions o f propriety .
S hould a lady be s eized with a fit o f y a w ning she crosses ,

hersel f with the mo s t burlesque sanctity T he sty le in which .
they cross them selves requires a r e hearsal t o understand it ,
they touch the cheeks chin and bosom quick w ith the thumb , , , ,
or as a military m a n would denominate it in double quick
, ,
time .
S moking cigars is a general practic e I might almost add .

,
with m e n women a n d children the ladies o f the better class
, , ,
always excepted though repor t says they will in secret take
, , , ,
the luxury o f a cigar Here boys o f eight n i n and ten year s .
, ,
e
o f a e may be seen smoking

Tg
, .
e E n lish soon get i nto the fa shion ; and most o f t h e m

are as fo n go f the cigar as the natives who a r e sm oking from ,
the time they get up until they go to bed I f th ey ride on , .
‘
horseback a c igar is in their mouths S h ould they ali ght in

, .
the streets it is only to stop the first p erson they m e e t s m o k~

,
ing to obtain one I h ave o ften smiled to see a first rate C reo
, .
lian dandy lighting his cigar from that o f so m e dirty black

fellow .
Havana cigars are the fa v o r i tes b ut they are dear and not , ,
at all times to be had i n per fection T he paper ones or ci ~
gars de Hoj a m a d e from the tobacc o lea f, are m ostly used
.
.
, ,
1 64 NIVER S A L T R A VELL E R U .
B U E N OS AY R E S .
and by many pre ferred T he manu facture o f them a fford s

'
employment to a great m any people including females , .
S o refined are their ideas o f politeness that a person s m o k ,

ing invariably takes the cigar from his mouth when passing a n
other in the street .
In another branch o f politeness B uenos A yres is not out ,

done even by P aris itsel f ; viz the constan t custom o f taking
,
.
o ff the hat when meeting each other in the street T he E n g '
lish mode o f touching the hat is too gr o o m a n d foot man like to -
be followed here ; theirs is taken entirely from the head and

when in compliment to ladies they remain uncovered until the ,
obj ects o f their politeness have passed It is managed grace .
fully— removing the hat from behind similar to those who are ,
accustomed to wear wigs it may be to save the fronts from ,

dilapidation which suc h continual calls on them would occa
,
S i on .
T he plant called ye b a the growth o f Paraguay and the r ,

Brazi ls is the tea o f B uenos A yres They drink it out o f a
,
.
small globe to which a tube is fi x ed nearly as long as our to

,
bacco pipe it is called the matte pot and the beverage drawn
-
,
fro m the yerba is the m a tt é T hese pots are generally o f sil
,
.
v er and they h and them from one to the other in drinking —a

practice not the most cleanly When I first s aw the tubes i n .
\
the ladies mouths I conceived they were smoking Matte has
’
,
.
not a b ad flavor but nothing equal to tea It is reported by

'
,
.
some to be pern icious to the teeth In visiting parties it is

,
.
-
,
always handed round It carries such an i d ea o f the tobacco .
pipe that I do not m uch admire seeing these m atte pots in the
,
-
hands o f la d ie s .
In general the time o f meals in B ueno s A y r e an families

, ,
is pretty n early as follows — T hey h ave m a tt e the first thing ,
which they o ften take in bed ; at eight or nine they have w hat ,
we should call break fa st bee fs teaks & c ; dinner at two and , ,
.
three m tt e at six and seven followed a fter by a supper T he

a .
fashionable London hours o f break fasting at one and two in

the a fter n oon and dining at eight or nine in the evening have
, ,
n o t travelle d to this quarter o f the globe yet T hey drin k wine .
out o f tumbler glasses .
T he i es ta or a fternoon nap is not so regul arly taken a s

s , ,
formerly : they have got more into the h abits o f business and ,
c annot a fford time fo r sleeping in the day and it d oes away
the remark that d uring s ie ta time nobody is to be seen in
, ,
s ,
the streets but E nglishmen and dogs T he s i e t a has its reg . s
u lar season beginning and ending with sum mer

,
T he plod .
d ing and in dustrious world cry out against this practice as e n

c o u r a gin g sloth but I think a nap a fter din n er i n w arm lati ,
tudes both re freshing and conducive to health
,
.
Houses are not provided with the convenience o f bells ; their

servants are summoned either by calling or making a noise ,
upon th e tables A t meals the servants and slaves are in at

.
,
tenda n ce at the table .
1 66 NIV E R S A L T R A VELL E R U .
S pect with which they tr e a t t h e females ; and though there a r e

“
m any S panis h customs which I think more honored in the
”
b rea h than the observance this is one I trust will last fo r
ever c .
, , ,
I n th ei r observes the s ame author the gentlemen o f

a t t i r e,
,
Buenos A yres follow the E nglish fashion From the summer s .
’
heat j ackets and light trousers are worn with straw hats par
, , ,
tic ul ar ly those singularly shaped ones from C hili It is not .
genteel to wear j ackets at the theatre or at parties From ,

.
November to Marc h light clothing is very agreeable except ,

n o w and then during some d ays o f cold
,
In E ngland they would smile to see the dress o f the boys in

Bueno s A yres ; they have long coats capotes large hats Wel , , ,
lingtou trousers and boots ; and this fo r children o f eight a n d
,
n ine years o f age who look like men o f Lilliput , .
T he dress o f the Buenos A y r e a n ladies incl udes all that is

charming in female attire White is the prevailing c olor . .
T he waist is neither so short as the French nor so long as the ,

E nglish S hawls o f a ll descriptions are worn ; some o f them
.
serve both fo r veil and shawl covering the bosom and hang , ,
ing loosely over the back part o f th e head T he face is never .
concealed .
T he greatest attention is paid to the hair which is su ffered ,

to grow to a considerable length and is fastened by a comb ,
behind with ringlets in the front C aps or bonnets are never
,
.
worn even in extreme old age T he elderly lady h as her

,
.
white lo ok s as ca re fully combed as when in youth and the ,
s ame peculiar style o f managing the veil T hey h ave not r e .
course to powder or other disguises to hide the approach o f

, ,
age In company they are exceedin gly free and talkative and
.
,
v ery cheer ful It is a sight not devo i d o f interest to see them
.
gliding along in their black attire to church at which they are ,
th e most constant visitants — the j aded forms o f what was once ,
p erhaps so lovely ,
.
T he wearing o f m o u r n in does not co ntinue so long as with

us ; neither are young an handsome widows disfigured by
those close and melancholy looking caps that we see in E n g
la n d .
F ans are the ladies constant companions — in the s treet ’

,
theatre ball and c hamber ; and their style o f using them is
, ,
u niq ue and grace ful
,
T hey are expens ive : I have heard o f
.
s i x ty to seventy dollars being iven fo r one T he French send .
a great many wit h all the em ellis h m en ts so peculiar to that

,
nation .
T he dress o f the female children displays equal taste with

that o f their elders ; fro m which indeed there is little di ffer , ,
e nce — the short s leeve d fr o ck silk stockings curled hair and

- ‘
, , ,
T hey walk the streets with immense impor ance th e t —
fa n.
m iniat ures o f those o f maturer age d

Fi Y R id ce i Bu os Ayr
ve ear s es en n en es .
U N IV E R S AL TR A V ELL E R . 167
H A B IT S AN D MANN E RS .
G a m i ng i s Cock fighting also I S p r ac

a co m m o n a m u s em en t .
tis e dby a particular class o f people A good E nglish gam e .
cock commands thirty and even forty dollars S hooting and .
fi shing are not practised to a reat extent Fish are general .
ly taken on h orseback T wo e rses are attached one to eac h .

,
end o f the net— a m an standing on their backs In this m an .
ner they proceed into the water the horses o ften being obliged ,
to swim on account o f the depth o f the water Having made .
a su ffi cient circuit the horses return to the shore dragging their

,
nets T hrowing the lasso is also a fa vo r ite amusement o f this

.
country and is per formed by the natives with great de x terity

,
.
A man on horseback holding the l a s s o (a rope looped at the ,

end ) rides among a herd o f cattle casting the rope towards
, ,
the one he wishes to entrap ; the first attempt almost al w ays

succeeds and the anim al is fast secured by the leg : T hey
,
practise this la s o from boyh ood : it is a formidable weapon
s
against a flying enemy .
During C a n i va l they have a disgusting practice : in place

r
,
o f music m asques and dancing they amuse themselves by
, , ,
throwing buckets and pans o f water from the tops o f h ouses
and windows sousing every passenger that passes and fo l
, ,
lowing each other from house to house in regular water a t , ,
tacks E gg shells filled with water are also thrown : these are
.
-
sold in the streets T he audience o n leaving the theatre th e .

,
nigh t be fore c arnival get a plenti ful s alute o f them It lasts , .
three d ays ; and many persons go out o f town to avoid it a s it ,

is h ardly possibl e to walk the streets wi thout a ducki ng T h e .
ladies receive no mercy ; neither do they deserve any fo r they ,

take a most active part Repeatedly on passing groups o f .
,
them at night an egg o f water h as been adroitly put into my
, ,
bosom T hose whose occupations lead them into the street

.
,
must expect a wetting S trangers seem to j oin in the sport .
with great glee A n E nglish master o f a vessel j ust arrived

.
,
received a bucket o f water Not being aware o f the practice .
,
he took up bricks swearing he would break every window in ,
the house He c ould scarcely be pacified Many persons

. .
have be e n seriously ill from the e ffects o f C arnival playing .
T he newspapers a n d police h ave inter fered to suppress it ,

hitherto w ithout e ff ect though it is somewhat lessened T hey , .
follow it as an ancient custom o f the country .
B u ll F i gh ts rT he following description o f this m ost barba

- --
a
rous
“
amusement is from the pen o f H M Brackenridge E sq
, . .
, .
Our arrival at Buenos A yres h appened to be during Lent ;

the circus and theatre were closed and public amusements ,
suspended My curiosity was a goo d deal excited to see the
.
bull fi gh t s the favorite amusement in all S panish c ountries

-
, .
A s soon as the circus was O pened I took the earliest o p p o r tu ,

a l ty o f attending it It is a circular amphitheatre c apable o f .
,
conta i ni ng between two and three thousan d persons T h e .
1 68 NIVER S A L T R A VELLER U .
B U E N OS A YR E S .
arena is abo ut one hundred and fi fty feet in diameter, with an

enclosure o f ab out si x ty feet high with openings at intervals , , ,
s u ffi ciently wi d e to admit the bo d y o f a man
; at one end th e re
is a sm all covered pen with stalls in which the bulls w ere , ,
confined and opening into the arena by a gate On the oppo
, .
site side there was a large gate at which the bulls were drag
, ,
ged out a fter being killed I found the place considerably
,
.
crowded ; but chiefly by the lower classes o f people ; at least

the females appeared to be such A t one side o f the toro there .
,
was a seat appropriated to the city authorities formerly the
V iceroy and some o f the principal public functionaries had
,
, , ,
also their places set apart ; but this is no longer the case as
, ,
it is con sidered even disrespectable fo r those persons to b e
.
seen here T he town major who is the chie f o fficer o f the p o

.
-
,
lice always attends on these occasions and presides in order
, , ,
to prevent any disorder or disturbance Immediately below . .
his s eat there was a band o f m usic which played be fore the
, ,
c ommencement o f the bull fi gh ts and during the interval s b e -
,
tween them When the spect ators had begun to assemble a
.
,
guard o f soldiers abo u t thirty in number was m a r c h e d into
the arena and a fter going through a variety o f evolutions
,
, ,
were di v ided into small detachments and distributed through ,
the di fferent parts o f the toro T he di fferent comb atants .

,
who were to display their sk ill and courage on the occasion ,
c ame forward and made their obeisance to the town maj or
, ,
and then retired to their places T he first two were on horse .
back called the p i cca d or es one a C hilian o f enormous stature

, ,
and bodily strength the other a h al f Indian o f a more delicate ,

-
,
frame a n d a more sprightly counten ance
,
T hey had both .
been convicted o f crimes and condemned to fight bulls fo r the ,
amusement o f the p u blic their irons were not taken o fl un fi l i m

m ediately be fore enterin g th e to r e T here were five or s ix others .
,
called b a n d a l er os with di fferent colored flags fo r the purpose
, ,
o f provoking a n d teasing the b a ll ; the last were the m tt a a
d o r cs h aving in the le ft hand a flag and in the right a sw ord ,

.
T he p i cca d es were armed with pikes ab out twelve feet in

'
or
,
length w ith the point so as to wound the an i mal without pene
,
t r a t i n g deeply ; they posted themselves on the le ft si d e o f the
place whence the bull was to be let out and at the distance o f ,
fi fteen or twenty paces from each other On the signal given .
the gate flew ope n and a furious animal rushed forth He im ,

.
mediately m ade at the C hilian but feeling the point o f the ,
steel in his shoulder he suddenly wheeled round and ran to ,

wards the middle o f the arena when the b a n d a ler os endeavor ,
ed to provoke him with their fl ags It was the turn o f the .
mestizo to receive him next on his lance ; but it was not until
a fter the bull had chased both several times round the circus ,
that he could venture to take such a position as would justi fy
his engaging him ; it was n ecessary to be near the enclosure ,
s o as to have its support otherwise in a furious assault o f the , ,
bull he might be overturned T he a n imal a tta cke ¢ th e h al t
,
.
1 70 NIV E R S A L T R A V E LLER
U .
B UE N OS AY R E S .
street coach is much used ; it is drawn by two horses or

, ,
m ules w ith a postillion and in shape very much resembles o ur
, ,
bakers carts ; the passengers are seated sideways S om e

’
.
E n glish mercha n ts and creoles h ave c arriages a fter the E n g

li sh m ode ; b u t the nature o f the roads and streets does not a f
ford them a great opportunity to show o ff ” .
T he travelling carriages that convey families to their estates ,

hundred s o f m iles distant are heavy cumbersome machines , , ,
in the old S panish sty le A family going t o the co u ntry is no .
or d inary sight ; the mules and wagons following with the b ag

gage and the q uantity o f out riders slaves and servants in
,
-
, , ,
pe a ch s ande little d i rty hats surrounding the carriages con ,

taining the ladies and female slaves appear like a banditti e s ,
c o r ti n
g their plunder .
T here are p e st houses on the road and those leading to C hili

-
,
are very regular A constan t Su pply o f h o r s e s and guides are
.
kept ; but perso n s mostly go on horseback fo r the s ake o f ex ,
p e di tio n T he j ourn ey is thus m ade to the A ndes in a b out

.
fourteen day s C rossing the mount a ins and getting to S anti

,
,
ago in C hili will take about three weeks from B uenos A y res ;
, ,
but the horse must always be kept in full gallop C arria ges .
a r e expensive and very dilatory but they s ave a great deal

, ,
o f fatig ue .
T hey h ave no convenience like the livery stab les o f E n g

land The h e rses are put under a shed or le ft in the open
.
,
air ; the mild clim ate requiring no other care T h e se employ .
ed in drudgery with c arts at the custom house & c are as hard -
,
.
,
worked as post and hackney coach horses -
.
E nglish saddles are in vogue T he m ca d o or saddle o f the ’
.
,
country keeps its sway being so constructed that on j ourneys
, ,
it s erves fo r saddle a n d bed T he S panish bri d le and bit are .
pre ferred bo th by the E nglish and the natives T he S panish .
fashion o f having the stirrups long is invariably followed and ,

I think it more grace ful than our m o d e .
T he country wa g e ns are roo fed with hides and h ave ‘
large wheels : the creaking o f the la tter is very disagreeable ;

but they will not take the trouble t o grease them Whole .
families and parties goin g long j ourneys live and sleep fo r

,
, ,
w e eks or months together l n wagons drawn by O X O l l S ix or ’
n
c i ht o f th e m are yoked in pairs t o a log o f w ood at the back ,
0 the horns to which the rope h arness is tied and they are
, ,
th us made to draw the burden from the head T hey are

'
u rged on by poles with a sharp substance at the end ; the dri

vers h a ve like wise a piece o f lead in shape and size like a con
sta b le s sta ff with which they belabor the p oor anim al abou t
’
,
the horns .
In crossing th e pamp a s or extensive plains two modes o f , ,
travelling are adopted— i n a carriage or on horseback T he ,

.
c arriages according to C apt Head are without s p r i n gs ~e i th e r

,
.
, ,
o f wood or iron b ut they are very ingenious ly slung on hide

.
U N i V E R S A L T R A VE L L ER . 1 71
P AMP A S .
ropes which make them quite easy eno ugh T here a r e

,
.
two sorts o f carriages a long vehicle on four wheels (with , ,

a d o o r b e h in d ) whic h is drawn by fo ur or six horses and
,
, ,
whic h can carry e i ght people and a smaller c ar r i a e on two
wheels o f about h al f the length whic h is usually rawn by ,
three horses .
“When I first went across the pampas I purchased fo r my

,
p arty a large carriage , and also an enormous two wheeled -
,
covered cart which carried about twenty fi v e hundred weight
,
-
o f miners tools & c I en g aged a capataz (head m an ) and he

’
.
,
hired fo r me a number o f persons who were to receive thirty

, : ,
or forty dollars each fo r driving the vehicles t o Mendoza .
“T he day be fore we started the capataz c ame to me fo r

,
s ome money to purch ase hides in order to prepare the c ar ,
r i a ges in the usual way T he hides were soaked and t h en .

,
cut into long strips about three q u arters o f an inch broad ,
and the pole and almost all the w e e d work o f the carri age
, ,
were firmly bo und with the wet hide which when dry shrunk , , ,
i n to a ban d almost as hard as iron T he spokes o f the wheels .

,
and very much to our astonishment the fellies or the circum
, ,
ference o f the wheels were similarly bound so that they actu ,

ally travelled o n the hide We all declared it would be c ut .
be fore it got over the pavement o f B uenos A yres but it went ,

per fectly sound fo r seven hun d red mile and was then only
cut by some sharp granite rocks e ver ich we were obliged
to
B u en os A yr es i s c alled Pamp asn o ted f or i ts vas t p l a i n s .
T hat on the east the Cordillera is about 9 00miles in breadth

of ,
and is divided into re gions o f di ff erent climate and produce .
On leavi n g Buenos A yres the first o f these regions is covered ,
fo r one hundred and eighty miles with c le v er and thistles ; the

second region which e x tends fo r four hundred and fi ft y miles
, ,
produces lo n g grass ; and the third region which reaches the ,
base o f the C ordillera is a grove o f low trees and shrubs T he ,
.
second and third o f these regio n s h ave nearly the same a p

p e a r a n c e thro u ghout the year fo r the trees and shrubs are ,
evergreens and the immense plain o f grass only changes its
,
color from green to brown ; but the first re gion varies with the
four seasons o f the year in the most e x traordinary m anner , .
In winter the le aves o f the thistle are large and lu x u r iant and
, ,
the wh ole sur fac e o f the country has the rough appearance o f
a turnip fi eld T he clover in this season is extremely rich and
-
.
stron g and the sight o f the wild c att le grazing in full liberty
,
on such pasture is very b e auti ful In spring the c le v er h as .

,
vanished the leaves o f the thistle h ave extended alon the
,
gr ound and the country still looks like a rough cr 0 p o t ur

,
nip s In less than a month the change is mos t extraordinary ;

.
t F o r a n accoun t of th e m o de in wh i ch th e C ordill er a is p ass ed. t h e reader

r
i s refe red t o C h i i l .
1 72 NIVER S AL T RAVELLER U .
th e whole region becomes a luxuriant bed o f enormous thi s

tles which have suddenly shot up to a height o f ten or eleve n
,
feet and are all in full bloom
,
T he road or path is hemmed .
in on bo th si d es ; the view is completely obstru cted ; not an

animal is to be seen ; and the stems o f the thistles are s o clos e
to each other and so s tr o n g that independent o f the prickle s
, , ,
w ith which they are armed they form an impenetrable barrier , .
T he sudden growth o f these plants is quite astonishing ; and

though it would be an unusual mis fortune in military h fs to r y
yet it is really possible that an invading army unacquainte d ,
w ith this country might be imprisoned by these thistles be for e
,
they had time to escape from them T he summer is not e ver .
be fore the scene undergoes another rapid change the thistles

s uddenly lose t heir sap and verdure their hea d s droop th e , ,
leaves shrink and fade the stems become black and dead and , ,
they rem ain rattling with the breeze one a g ainst another un ti l , ,
the violence o f the pampero or hurric ane T e v el s them with the
ground where they rapidly decompose and disappear ; t h e

,
c l e v er ru shes up and the scene is again verd an t
,
.
T h e climate o f the pampas is subj ect to a great di ff erenc e

o f temperature in winter and summer though the r a d u al ,
c hanges are very regular T he winter is about as col a s o ur .
month o f November and the ground at sunrise is always co v ,

ered with white frost but the ice is seld om more than o n e ,
tenth o f an inch thick In summer the sun is v e oppress .
,
i vely hot and its fo r c e is acknowled ged by every ivin g ani
,
m al T he wild h o r s es and cattle are evi dently exhausted by
.
it and the s i es t a seems to be a repose which is natural and

,
n ecessary to all T he middle o f th e day is not a moment fo r
.
work ; and as the m e rnin are cool the latter are evidently ,
b est adapted fo r lab o r an the fo r m er fo r repose ,
.
T he on irregularity in the clim ate is the pampero or sou th

west win lywhich generated by the cold air o f the A ndes
,
, ,
r ushes over these vast plains with a velocity and a violenc e
w hich it is almost impossi b le to with stand But this rapid cir .
c ulation o f the atmo sphere has very beneficial e ff ects and th e ,

weath e r a fter one o f these tempests is always p articularly
'
, ,
h ealthy and agreeable .
Th e s ou th er n ar t o f t h e p a mp as i s i n h a b i t ed by I n d i a ns w h o
h ave no fixed a o d e s but wander from place to place as the , ,
herbage around them b ecomes consumed by their cattle .
T hey are all horsemen or rather pass their lives on horse ,

b ack T he li fe they lead is sing ularly interesting In spite o f
. .
th e climate which is burning hot in summer and freezing in

, ,
winter these brave men who have never yet been subdued
, , ,
ar e naked and h ave not even a coverin g fo r their
,
nea dentirely
T hey live to gether in tr i bes each o f which i s governed by a ,
c acique ; but they have no fixed p lace o f residence Where .
th e p as t ure i s good there they ar e to b e foun d u n ti l it is c e n

, ,
o
174 U N I V E R S A L TRA VE L L E R .
the hut in which th ey were born a nd in which th eir fathe rs ,
a n d gr and fathers li ved be fore them although it appears to a ,

s tranger t o possess fe w o f the allurements o f d u lce do m u m .
T he huts are built in the same simple form ; fo r although lux

u r y has ten thous and plans and elevations fo r the frail abod e
o f its more frail tenant yet the hut in all co u ntries is the same , ,
and there fore there is no di fference between that o f the S o u th
A merican Gaucho and the Hi h lan d er o f S cotland exceptin g
, ,
that the former is built o f mu and covered with lo n g yellow
ass while the other is formed o f sto nes and thatched with
, ,
ea t h e r .
T he materials o f both are the i mmediate produce o f the soil ,

and b o th are s o blended in color with the face o f the c ountry ,
that it is o ft en di fficult to distinguish them ; and as the pace at
which one gallops in S outh A merica is rapid and the country ,
flat one scarcely discovers the dwelling b e fore one is at the

,
door T he c o r r a l is about fi fty or one hundred yards from the
.
hut and a circle o f about th irty yards in diameter enclosed

, ,
by a number o f strong rough p osts the ends o f which are ,
s tuck into the ground U pon these posts are gen erally a .
n umber o f idle looking vultures or h a wks and the ground ,

around the hut a n d c o r r a l is covere d with b o n e s and carcasses
o f horses bullocks horns wool & c which give it the smell and
’
.
, , ,
a p pearance o f an ill ke p t dog kennel in E ngland -

.
T he hut consists generally o f one room in which all the ,
family live boys girls men women and children all huddled
, , , , , ,
together T he kitchen is a deta ched shed a fe w yards o ff :
.
there are always holes b o th in the walls an d in the roo f o f the ,

hut which one at first considers as singular marks o f the in d e
,
e
lence o f the people In the summer this abode is so filled wi th

.
fleas and b in c h uc a s (which are bugs as large as black beetles )

, ,
that the whole family sleep on the gr ound in front o f their
dwelling *
.
O n th e p a mp as , wh i ch a f ar d ex c ell en t
-
p a s t ur e, i nn um er a b le
rove unvalued and unowne d their hides and
h er d s of ca t t l e
‘
,
tallow alone being so u ght a fter by the S panish hunters From .
the 30th p arallel o f latitude so u thwar d eat numbers o f wild

horses are met with the progeny o f tg rose i mported by the
,
,
S paniards T hey congregate in herds o f several thousands
.
and one traveller states th a t b eing in these plains fo r three , ,

'
w eeks he was continually surrounded by them S ometimes

,
.
they passed by in close tr 0 0ps on full spee d fo r tw o or three ,

hours together A t other times the same district has been
.
,
passed over and no horses have been seen T hey are said
,
.
to have a tr ic k on discoveri ng any tame horse s which they do

, ,
a t a very g r eat distan ce o f formin in close column ga110 pin g , ,
u p and surrounding them ; or per aps they will run by their

,
s ide caressing them gently neig hing and fi nally enticin g ‘
, , ,
t hem away with them T hey r un with incre dible heedle s s .
Head s N o tes ’
.
U N IVER S AL T RAVELLER . 1 75
AN IMA L S O N T HE P AMPA S .
n ess and when pursued dash themselves a gainst a ny obj ec t

, , ,
th at stands in their way A stonishing instances o f this wild .
n ess are seen in dry years when water is very scarce to th e ,
south o f Bueno s A yres T hey will run all together as i f they .

,
w ere m ad in search o f som e p o n d or lake ; and on reach la
,
it plunge into the mud and the forem ost are trampled to deat
, ,
by those th at follow A zara relates that he h as m o r e tha n .
,
o n c e s een upwards o f a thousand carcasses o f wild h o r s es th at
h ave perished in that m anner A ll o f them are o f a chestnut .
or dark b ay color T he domestic horses are also very num e .
rous and on that account are most b arb arously used I n

,
.
Buenos A yres it is no extraordinary circum stance to se e

,
literally a beggar on horseback .
Wil d dogs are also very numerous in th e pampa s T hey .
are o f a large breed descended like the wild h orse s from do , , ,

m e s tic animals introduced by the fi rst settlers T hey are gre .
ga r i o u s and several will j oin t o attack and pursue a mare o r

,
c o w while others kill the fo al or c al f In th i s way they make

, .
e a t h ave c
'
In consequence o f their formidable numbers

.
,
t e government on one occasion sent out a party o f soldiers
, ,
to destroy them who killed a great number ; but the ridicule
,
c ast on the expedition b the populace who c alle d the soldiers ,
m a ta p er r os (dog ki lle rs prevented the r ene wal o f th e attempt
, ,
.
T hese o p e n plains are als o th e haunt o f the emu or Amer ,

ic an o s tr i ch In par ts where these birds are not hunted they
.
,
will approach the h abitations o f m an and are not disturbed at ,
the sight o f foot passengers ; but in the country where they , ,
a r e obj ects o f pursuit fo r the sake o f their skins and plumes ,
they are extremely shy T hey frequent especially the m arshy
,
grounds eith e r in pairs or in tr 0 0 ps o f thirty or more

, T hey ,
.
run with such swi ftness that o nly go o d horsemen well mounted
c an overtake them When c aught by means o f balls the bird *
.
,
i s n o t to be approached without great caution ; fo r thoug h it ,
doe s not strike with its bill it kic k s with great strength and , ,
is said to b e capable o f breaking a stone When ru nnin g a t .
full speed their wings are stretched out behind : in order to

,
tur n they open one wing and the wind as sists th e m to wheel
, ,
a bout wit h such rapidity as to throw out their pu rs uer Th e .
o s tr ic h when youn g is easily domesticated and will be c ome

, , ,
familiar presently Th ey go into all the apart m ents walk
‘
.
,
a bout the streets and in the country sometimes t o the distanc e
,
o f a league and return to their homes
,
T hey are full o f c u .
ri o s i ty and s te p at the windows and doors o f houses to o b

, ,
s erv e what is pass ing w ithin T hey are fe d with rain bread ,
.
,
a n d other things ; they lik ewise swallow pieces 0 money bits ,
o f metal and small stones which they pick up
, T he flesh o f .
th e young birds is tender and well flavored but n o t th a t o f th e ,

0
0 S ee p age 143 .
178 U N IV E R S AL T R A V E L L E R .
o ld ones It is believed th at th ey n ever drink ; they are how

.
,
ever excellent swimmers and will cr o ss rivers and lagoons
, , ,
e ven w hen not pursued T he number o f these birds dimin .
ish es as the po pulation increases ; fo r t h ough it i s d ifli c ult to ,
kill them with fi r e arm s or to run them down on horseback -

, ,
and impossible to take them with snares yet every one is eager ,
to search fo r their eggs and to destroy their young ,
.
Th e r o om i n w h i ch is lighted ; large a co r p s e i s d ep os i t ed
c andles are placed round the co n and the wainscoti ng ffi ; ,
tables & c are co vered with white urniture cr os ses & c
,
.
,
f , , .
The windows are o ften thrown open passengers to view ,

fo r
the scene o f death as a warning that to this complexion we “
,
”
must come at last I remembe r my surprise on first s e eing a
.
spectacle o f this sor t The corpse o f a female about thirty

,
.
,
l a y shrouded in her co ffi n the lid o f Which was taken o ff with , ,

her h ands folded o v e r her breast and a s m all cross placed b e ,
tween them T he gaudy c o ffi n and the ligh t s a r e u n d it gave
.
, ,
it t h e appear ance o f wax w o r k ; indeed I had an impression

that it was so fo r some minutes not being aware o f th e
, ,
‘
country s fashion Deceased persons are interred twenty

’
.
four hou r s a ft er their decease ; a necessary precaution in a

warm climate .
T h e h e a r s es a r e modelled a fter the F rench fashion and are

‘
n o t followed b y mourners T he relatives o f the deceased a t .
tend the burial ground to receive t h e b ody and the churc h

_
-
,
cerem onies o f mass &c take place some days a fter ,
.
,
.
T he death o f a fi lm or any priest is announced by a par , ,

tic ul ar t e lling o f th e bell .
T he m a sses fo r the repose o f th e soul are per formed at v a

r io u s churches according to the wish o f the rela tives w h o is
, ,
s ue printed notices inviting the friends o f the deceased A ny

,
.
one is a t liberty to attend T hose o f r espectability who c an .

,
a fford to pay have several masses ; but it is rather an ex p e n
,
sive a ffair The ceremony lasts from one to two hours A n

. .
imitation c o fii n is placed n e ar the altar surrounded by lights ,

.
I f it be fo r a mili tary or pu b lic m an the sword and hat are ,
p laced on the co ffi n and a company o f sold i ers fire a volley

,
at the church d e e r T owards the end o f the mass candle s .
,
are put into the hands o f the m ale part o f t h e congregation ,
a n d in a fe w m i nutes taken from them again and e x ti n gu ished .
A t the close the priests and friars headed by their s u perior

, , ,
take thei r station in two lines near the door and receive and
‘
, , ,
return the obeisanc e s o f the congregation The relations and .
particular friends a dj ourn to the dwelli n g house (sometimes -
to the re fectory o f the church ) where a repast is prepared o f , ,
c akes fr uit w ine liqueurs beer

, ,
room bei ng lighted
, , , ,
a n d h u n g with black and white decorations I h ave heard

’
.
,
some ch arming music in these masses and it is fa r fr o being ,
an unimpressive scene : the holding a light at the req em o f

’
t hose we loved c arries with it a plea s ing idea ,

.
U NIV E R S A L T R A V E LL E R .
C H IL E .
broad a n d had been dug from one wall o f the burial ground
,
-
to the other : th e cor p ses were b u ried across it by fours one ,

a b o ve another and t here was a m oveable sh utter which went
,
pe r pendicul a rly across the trench and w a s moved a step f , or

wards as soon as the fourt h bo d y was interred O n e body .
had alre a dy b een i nterred ; the son j u mped down upon it and ,
while he was thus in th e grave standi n g up on the body a nd , ,
leaning against three the two grave d iggers gave him h is fa
—
,
ther w h o was dressed in a lo n g coarse white l inen shirt

, , , .
T he grave wa s so narrow that the man had great di ffi c ulty in

laying the body in it but as soon as he ha d d one so he a d
, ,
dressed the li feless corpse o f his fathe r a n d embraced it with ,
a great deal o f feel ing ; the situation o f the father and son a i ,
though so very unusu al seemed a t the moment any thing but ,
u nnatural In scrambling o ut o f the grave,the man very near

.
ly knocked a woman out o f the tier o f c orpses at his back ;

a n d as soon as he was u p t h e t w o attendants wi th their spa d es
'
, , ,
threw earth down upon the face and the white dress o f the old
m a n u n t il both were covered wi th a very thin layer o f e ar th;
‘
the two men then j umped down with heavy wooden ra mmers
,
,
and they really rammed the corpse in that sort o f way that , ,
h ad the man be en alive he wo uld h ave been killed ; and w e
’
,
”
then all walked away .
6 . CHIL E .
This country the manners and cu s to ms o f whose inhabitants

,
we propose next to survey lies to the w est o f B uenos A yres , ,
and is separated from it by the A ndes some o f the summits o f

-
,
which have been estimated at up wards o f feet We .
sh all h ave occasion in a subsequent page t o describe m ore

, ,
particularly the manner in whi c h the pass a ge is commo nly
m ade from B uenos A yres to C hile ; it will there fore su ffi ce in
this place to observe that to ordinary travellers the A ndes are
, ,
i mpassable e x cepting in the summer season and under t h e

, ,
m ost favorable circumstance s is att e nded with imminent dan ,
ger But in o ur passage which o f our fello w travellers h a s

.
,
thou ght o f d anger n o spouting volcano has alarmed u s — and
-
n o mountain torrent has threatened us We r ise with the ease .
with which the strong pinioned condor li ft s hersel f over the to w

- s
“
ering crags and summits o f these heaven disturbing moun -
tains — and descend as sa fely as does the skil ful aeronaut on

”
,
“
his return from some aerial e x cursion to the low—ly in g l a n d s
”
b el e w l
'
Chile large country — in length 1 260 miles and in

is '
a ,
breadth 300 with an area o f ,

square miles Its pop .
u l ati o n h a s b ee n variously estim ated

'
In 1 8 20 Malte B r a n .
,
p u t it t a later writer has stated it said t o b e found

i
z ,
U NIV E R S A L T R A V E LL E R . 17 9
POP U L A TI O N OF C H IL E .
ed on a census at ,
ex clusive of in d e p en d en t f l n
consists principally o f S paniards or

T h e p op u l dti o n of C h i l e ,
people of S panis de cent I ndians and Mestizoes wit h a f w

h s , , ,
e
French nglish Irish Italians and Negroe s T he whole

,
E , , ,
.
number these several classes m ay be from one million to

of
t w el ve hundred thousand T he wealthier inhabitants are in .
"
general fond o f splendor and magnificence whic h appear in ,

their dress and equipage T he fashions are direc ted by those .
o f Lim a B yron who resided fo r s o m e ti me in the country

.
, ,
gives the follow ing description o f the m ann ers and customs o f
S t Jago “ I n their assemblies m any intrigues are carried on
~
,
. .
fo r they think o f nothing else thro u gh th e y e ar Their fa n d a n .
goes are very agreeable T h e women dance inimitably ; most .
o f them have delight ful voices and all play upon the guitar ,
a n d h arp ; on the harp t hey excel every other na tion I bey ‘

.
,
are e x tremely polite ; and w h en aske d either to play dance , ,
or sing they d o it without a m o m en t s hesitatio n and that with
,
’
,
a n e x ceeding g ood grace T hey have m any figure d ances ; .
b u t wh at they take most delight in are more like our hornpipes ,

than any thing I can compare them to and upon these occ a ,
s io n s t h e y sho w surprising agility T he wo men are r e m a r k a .
bly handsome a n d very e x travagant in their dress T heir

,
.
h air which is very thic k the wear o f great length without

a n y other o r n a m e n t U p o n t h e y
, , ,
e ad than a fe w flowers
‘
T hey .
plat it behind in four plats and twist it round a bodkin at , ,
each end o f which is a diamond ro se In winter they have an .

,
U pper w aistcoat o f cloth o f gold or silver and in s ummer o f , , ,
the finest linen covered with the finest Flanders lace When .
th ey go abroa d th ey wear a veil which is so contrived that

, ,
one eye only is s een Their feet are smal l and they value
.
,
themselves as much upon it as the C hinese do T heir b reasts .
and shoulders are al m ost naked and indeed you may easily ,
discover the whole shape fro m their m anner o f dress T hey .
h ave fine s p a rkling eyes ready wit a great deal o f good na , ,
ture and a stro n g disposition to gallantry Parag uay te a

, .
,
which they call m a tt e is always drunk twice a day T hey
, .
drink it thro ugh the conveyance o f a long silver tube at the ,

end o f which is a round strainer to prevent the herb getting
th rough A nd here it is r e c k o n e d a p iece o f poli teness in the
.
v
lady to suck the tube two or three times first and then give
,
“
,
it to the stranger without wiping it T hey eat every thing so
,
highly seasoned with red pepper th at those w h o are not used ,

to it upon the first m outh ful would im agine their throats on
, ,
fire fo r an hour a fterwards T he l adies sit cross legged . .

-
,
a fter the Moorish fa shion u pon the estrado which is a plat , ,
for m raised about fi ve or six inches above the floor and ,
c overed with carpets and velvet cushions T he common .
veh i cle is a calash or v is a v i s drawn by one mule only - -

, .
1 80 U NIVER S AL T RAV E LLER .
C H ILE .
B ull feasts are a common di version here and s urpass any ,

t hin o f that kind I ever saw at Lisbon or anywhere else ,
.
T e p ea s a n ts are a healthy and robust race o f men chiefly ,

c onsistin g o f creoles T hey are bold and dexte r ous horse
.
m e n fon d o f riding and almost al ways o n the saddle

, , T hey .
a r e amazingly expert also in the u s e o f the l a u i which is *

, q , ,
their principal weapon employing it on all occasions both in , ,
hunting and in their private qua rrels T he S panish creoles .
p ossess all the estimable and en gaging qualities which charac

t e r i z e those o f English and French descent T hey a r e b r a v e .
,
a ctive and enterprising frank in their m anners and o f the
, , ,
s trictest honor Their prej udices are easily er adicated ; their
.
t emper is enero u s and unsuspecting but at the same time ar

g ,
dent and i mp etuous in the pursuit o f pleasur e and too fr s ,
quently transports them beyond the strict bounds o f modera
tion T hey are fond o f learning and possess a d egree o f
.
,
p enetr ation sagacity and correctnes s o f thought that m ight

, , ,
ensure success in almost any study .
T he S p a ni s h inhabitants in e n er al are o f a h o sp itable and , ,
g enerous disposition A s but e w inns h ave been established

.
i n th e country their houses a r e a t all times open to strangers

,
a n d travellers whom they entertain with a degree o f kindnes s
,
an d liberality unequalled almost among any other people .
We m ay here notice a ga r m en t o f very general use b oth

'
,
a mong Indians and S paniards which though di ffering in , ,
quality and ornament according to the ran k o f the wearer , ,
r etains always its peculiar and distinguishing form : it is called
o n c h o and consi s ts o f a piece o f quilted cloth about three
p , ,
yards in length and two in bre adth h aving an opening in the ,
mid d le j ust large eno ugh to admit the head It hangs down on .
a ll sides serving completely the purposes o f a cloak while it

, ,
leaves the motion o f the arms more free and unembarrassed .
T he negroes are wholly employed i n domestic services and ,

tr eated with a degree o f tenderness and humanity that e atly
a lleviates their state o f servitude They are p r o te c te from .
a n y extreme cru elty on the part o f their masters should these ,
h e so inclined by a law permitting the slave in a c ase o f this

, ,
Th i l q ui diff
s a f m th t
er s d b y t h I di
ro i h i g a i gl us e e n an s n av n a s n e n oo se
i pl
n ace o f b ll t
a h
a d U ll
a i f m
ea c t h at t h
'
en Sp i h p t y oa n or s us e an s e a s an r
d h lt th
.
c an s r t ik e an a bj t f t h i t t k w t h l m
er e o ec g ot y e r a ac , i a o s t u n er r i n cer ai n t ,”
a t th d t
e f t h ty
i s an c e o f t p ir ; b t th t
or m ll d t
or h t a c es u a a s a i s a n ce, s uc as en
or fift een p d th i
a ces, re n t ty i
ers m m er ff t l H
ex en , n so e ea s ur e, i n e e c ua . e re
l ates a n in s tan ce o f t h ei r addr es s , wi t h r e ar d t o an E n glis h m an w h o m h e
kn ew at C o n ce ti o n, Tlu s m an w a s i n th e o ng b o a t o f a p n va teer t h en lym g
p
-
n C ti n t e n din g t o an d a t T a c a n l
a, W i th a v iew o f un der l
pl
i o c ep o
n a
y i n a
ll
,
i n g t h e n ei h b o ri n g Vi es , w h en a b o dy o f t 9 c o un tr y m i li t i a m a( e t o t h e
o
g
s h or e, i n or er t o o p o s e t em U p o n t h i s , t h e E n i s h fi r ed up o n t h em W i th l
k
.
t h eir m us et ry ; an no s oo n er h ad t h ey di s c h er e t h ei r p i ec es , t h an o n e o f
t h e p eas an t s, t h ou h t h e b o at w a s a t a co n s ider a ls di s t an ce, t h re w h i s n oo s e,
an d, n o t Wi t h s t an i ng all in t h e b o at th r e w t h em s elv es o n t h eir faces , h e
no osed t h e abo ve m en tio ned p er s o n, p ul lin g h im o ut o f t h e b o a t Wi th t h e '
l
gr eat es t r ap i di t w h i e t h e o th er s , i n s tead o f e n de av o ring t o s av e h i m , t h ough t
o f no t h ing in t eir frigh t but h ow t o get o ut o f dan ger a s s oo n as p o s s ib e l .
1 82 U NIVER S AL TR A VELLE R
C H ILE .
in g about smoking th eir cigars and admi r ing the ladies ,

’
dresses and some risking their money at R o ug e et N oi r fo r

,
‘
w hich there were many tables brought from the booths into
the open air But the chi ef interest lay within the Ramad a s
.
i n each o f which was to b e found a b and o f musicians a nd

dancers hired to attr act company T heir i nstr u ments wer e .
invariably a har p a guitar and a sort o f drum T he harp i s

, ,
.
held in a di fferent manner from ours ; fo r instead o f stand ing ,
erect it is kept in a horizontal position the t0p o f the in s t ru

, ,
ment resting o n th e lap o f th e player who sits on a low stool , .
T he dru m is m a d e o f a piece o f wood hollowed out and c o y ,

ered at one end with raw hide This stands on the ground .
,
and is a tte d wit h the finger s while the wrist rests upon the ,
rim . t times th e end o f the harp or the empty guitar b o x i s , ,
u sed as a substitute or any thing indeed which gi ves a clear

’
, , ,
hollow sound T he players in general are also singers a n d
.
, , ,
the voice mingles more or less at all times with the in s tr u , ,
mental music T hey sing m ostly in a high shrill tone disa
.
,
r e e a b le at first t o a stran er but in the course o f a l i ttle time

g g ,
i t recommends itsel f to h i s ear in a manner which his judg ,
ment scarc ely allows to be just Occasionally they sing in a .
lower tone when the notes are very sweet and pleasing ; b ut
,
we h ad reason to suspect that this was due to the accidenta l ,
good taste o f the sin ger rising superior tp th e general practice ,
o f th e country ;
,
“The bull fi h ts are very bo ish exhibitions and deserve

g y
-
,
n o pa r ticular desc ri p tion T he animals in fact were never .
, ,
killed but merely teased by horsemen who goaded them with
, ,
blunt spears or distracted by m e n on foot who waved flags in

,
their faces and whe n the bulls were irritated escaped over
, , ,
the railings into the Ramadas .
T he chie f interest to us at least lay in the people whose , , ,
vario us dresses we were never tired o f looking at while the in ,

t e r p r e t a tio n o f their strange language gave us ample occ u pa
tion ; fo r although they all pro fessed to S peak S panish their ,
dialect was strongly marked with a local idiom and pronuncia
tion But although every thing was new to us and partook
.
,
more or less o f a characteristic air it is not easy to describe , ,
chiefly from its want o f resemblance to any thi ng we have b e
fore witnessed .
“I met at the Ramadas one evening a family to whose a t

, ,
tention s I am m uch indebte d especially fo r their assistance in

‘
,
explaining the native customs We visited together many o f .
the booths and h ad an opportunity o f seein gmore o f the dan

,
cing than on the first night One o f their favorite figures begins .
in a manner not unlike our minuet with slow and apparent ,

ly unpremeditated movements ; the parties approaching and
receding from each other occasionally j oining hands swing , ,
i n g themselves round and sometimes sto oping so as to pass
,
under each other s arms T hese figures admit the display o f
’
.
m uch e as e and grace but inevi tab ly b etr ay any a wkwa r d n ess
,
U NIV ER S AL T R A VELLE R . 1 83
VALP AR A I SO — M ANN . E RS .
o f manner T he slow moveme nts last a minute or two a fter

.
,
w hich the measure s uddenly change s from a du ll monotonous

tune to a quick and va ried air lo udly acco m pa nie d by the ,
drum and all the voices A t this instant the dancers commence .
a so rt o f shu ffl ing step during which the feet do not slide a long ,
the ground but make with great rap idity a number o f s hor t
, , ,
s tampings A t the moment o f this change in time the d an cers
.
,
d art forwa rd toward s each o ther w aving their h andker c hie fs ,

a ff ectedly be fore them T hey do no t actually meet but whe n .
, ,
almost touching pass and continue to re volve round eac h , ,

o ther in circles larger or smaller according to the s pac e a i
, ,
lo wed accompany ing these rotatory motio n s by various ges
,
t i c ula tio n s especially th at o f waving their hand kerch ie fs o ve r

,
their partner s head T he r e was a s triking di fference b et wee n

’
.
the m a n ne r i n wh ic h the se d ances were pe r fo rme d by t h e to wns

people and by th e G u as s o s or countrymen the latter h aving
, , ,
a lways th e a d vant age both in skill and in eleg a nce .
“T he s e a musements l a st ed throughout the n ight and ai

, ,
though the peop le are n aturally tem p erate it was e vid ent th at , ,
towards morning the danc es were apt to acquire a more sav
a ge character and the son 5 t o b ec o m e licentious
,
But there .
were very fe w in s tance s 0 intoxication or riotous behavio r .
N o women except th o se pro fessio na lly attach ed to the band

,
o f music ever dan c e ; but a s the men o f a ll classes j oin occa
,
s io n a lly t h e floo r is seld om long uno cc upied no more than o n e

, ,
c ouple ever standin g up at the same ti me E ac h figure l asts .
a bout three or four minutes a fter whic h the music stops fo r a ,

fe w seconds and is then resumed this be ing always repe ated
, ,
three times T he fondness o f the populace fo r t his amusement
.
i s s o remarkable that I have o ften returned to one o f the R a

,
m adas a fter an inte rval o f several hours and found the same ,
people still lo o king on at th e s a m e dan ce with undiminish ed
”
pleasure .
The mer ch an ts and other pri ncipal inh ab itan ts r e s id e in

t h e houses built along the base o f the cli ff s in Valparaiso and ,
a long the streets o f the A lmendral But the poorer pe o ple live .
c hiefly in the Que b radas or ravine s T his class o f s ociety ,

.
h ad been the least a ffec ted by the chan ge s in th e political state

o f the country and retaine d as we we r e in form e d the sa m e
, , ,
m anners and h abits as be fo re ; a c ircums tance which gave

them a higher in terest to us and we frequently roved about in ,
the cool hours o f even i ng amongst their r a n c h as or cottages , , ,
a n d were every where rece ived with th e utm ost frankness and
, ,
as fa r as th e simple m eans o f the inh abita nts went with h os ,
p i tal ity T hey w e r e c h ie fly brickmakers day laborers a nd

. .
,
-
,
wa sher wom en who were always grati fi ed by the intere st w e
,
took in their a ffairs replying readily and che er fully to our ,
inquiries T heir firs t anxiety was th a t we shoul d be seated

.
,
in order to use their phrase tha t we might feel ourselves in
, ,
o ur own ho use ; the ir ne xt wish was tha t we s hou ld tas te ,
1 34 U NIV E R S A L T R A VELL E R .
C H IL E .
s o methi ng no m atter h ow little ; some o ffered us spiri ts o r

, ,
milk a n d bread ; others who could a ff ord nothing else pre , ,
sented a cup o f wate r Yet howeve r wretched the cottage

,
.
, ,
or po o r th e fa re th e deficiency was never made m ore a p
,
parent b y apo lo gies With u n t a u gh t politeness the best .
-
,
they had was placed be fore us gr aced wit h a hearty wel ,
come .
“T hese r a n c h a s as well as the h ouses i the t o wn are built n

, ,
o f lar e fi a t brick dried in the sun and thatched with broa d ,
palm av e s the ends o f which by overha ngin g the walls a f
, , ,
ford s h ade as w e ll a s shelter fr o m th e rain
,
E ach cottage is .
divided in to two rooms ; one fo r the beds the other as a dinin g ,
room a portion o f the mud floor o f which is always ra i se d

,
seven or eight inches above the level o f the oth e r parts and ,
bein g covered with m ats ser ve s a s a couc h fo r the siesta
“
,
s leepers a fter di nn e r .
I n o n e cot ta ge we found a y o un g woman grindi ng cor n

in a very primitive mill consisting o f two stones one a , ,
l arge grooved block placed on the gro u nd the other a polish ,
ed piece abo ut twice th e s i z e o f her hand The u n groun d .
c orn appeared to be baked till it: wo u ld crumble into powde r

between the finger a nd thum b and the coarse flour whe n , ,
mixed with water made an agreeable drink called U lp a
, ,
.
“In some o f the Quebradas we occasion a lly discovered

,
h ouses o f a better clas s generally o c e u p ie d b elderly ladie s

o f slender inc o me s who had reli n q uis h ed the fis h io n a b le a n d
,
,
expensive parts o f the town fo r more rem ote though n o t les s , ,
c om fortable dwellings N o thi ng co uld e x c e e d t h e neatness a n d
.
regularity whic h reigned in thes e hou s e s where we were o fte n ,
r eceived b y the in m ates with a p o litenes s o f m anners indica ,
t ing that they had known better days These good ladies e n .
o rally entertained us with t h e celebrated P araguay tea ca le d ,

m a t t e a bev e rage o f whic h the inha b itant s are p a s sionatel y
,
fond B e fore in fusion th e Yer b a as it is called h as a yello w

.
, , ,
color and appears partly ground and partly chopped ; the fl a
, ,
vor resemble s that o f fin e tea t o which indeed m a ny peopl e , , ,

pre fer it T he m att e is m ade in an oval shape d metal p o t
.
-
,
about twi c e as large as an egg placed nearly full o f water on , ,
the hot embers o f the brazier which stands at a ll seasons o f ,
the year in the middle o f a parlor ; when the water begins t o
boil a lump o f sugar burnt on the outsi d e is added The pot
,
.
i s next removed to a fi la gr ee silver stan d o n w h ic h it is h and ,

ed to t h e gue s t w h o dra w s th e m atte into his mou th th r ough a
,
silver pipe seven or e igh t inches in length furnished at th e , ,
lower extremity with a bu l b pierc ed with s m all h o les T h e
,
.
n atives drink it al m ost b oi ling hot and it c o s ts a st r anger many ,
a tear be fore he can imitate them in this respect There is .
one custom in these matte drinkings to which though not e a , ,
s ily reconcilable to our habits a stranger must not ventu re to ,
obj ect However numerous the company may be or howeve r

.
,
o ften the m atte pot be replenis h e d t h e tu be is ne ver c h anged ; ,

1 86 ‘
U NIV E R S A L TR A VELL E R .
C H IL E .
and lastly the enormo us p urple water mel o n th e sta ff o f li fe

, , ,
a mon gst the poorer classes in this co untry : to all which w a s
added a pleasant small wine m anu factur ed b y the hands o f ,
our absent hostess .
The whole sc en e was characteristi c of th e cou ntry We .
s at in the cross draught o f t wo doors and n u mero us Wi n dow s ,

enj oying t h e b almy a ir as it passed th rou gh the house whisk ,
i n g in its c our s e the dried fig and vine leaves along the floor
, , .
On one sid e we could see along the gravel walks o f the ga r

,
den stretching under trellised vines and shaded by a broad

, ,
belt o f lo fty walnut trees which fo rmed grate ful screens b e ,

tween us and th e fiery glare of th e wes tern sky O n the other .
h and our view e x tended as fa r as the A nd es fi fty or sixty

, ,
miles o ff indistinctly seen t h rough the waving haze ca used by
, ,
the fi e r c e n e s s o f the s un s rays striking through the arid low

’
grounds neither bird nor b e ast was to be s ee n nor the least

~
,
speck o f a cloud in the sky the tyranny o f the s a n was com
—
p le t e T.here was a solemn tranquillity in this which while it , ,
disposed the mind to tho u ght took nothing fr o m its ch eer ful ,
n ess B u t we were soon le ft to enj o y it alone as the company

.
,
dropped o ff one by o n e to take their sies ta ; the land lor d only

, ,
rem ai n ed but evidently out o f civility to his gues t s ; we there
, ,
fore took a h op p ortunity o f slipping o ff to our r ooms also that

, ,
”
he might retire .
“
T he same autho r th us des c ri be s a Ch ilea n d a nc e It con :
sists o f a great v a riety o f complicated figures a ffo r din g in fi n ite ,

opportunities fo r the display o f grace and fo r showing eleganc e ,
o f figure to the greatest advantage It is d anc ed to waltz tune s .

,
played in rather slow time ; and instead o f o n e o r t w o c ouple s ,
d ancing at once the whole o f the set from end to end is in

, , ,
m otion No dan c e can b e more beauti ful to look at or mor e
.
,
bewitching to b e e ngaged in A s all the ladies have more o r .
,
l e s s a taste fo r music and can play on t h e piano forte there

, ,
-
seldom arises on such occasions as this a di ffi culty in findin g

, ,
a player But } was s urprised and somewhat disappointed

.
, ,
to see a young lady one o f the gayest and best dancers in ,
C hile p lace hersel f at the instrument

,
T he gentlemen loudly .
appealed against this proceeding ; but she maintained her

place resolutely declaring she would not dance a si n gle step
, .
I s a w there was some mystery in this and took an op p ortu ni ,
ty o f begging to know what co uld h ave induced a pers on o f so

much good s ense a n d cheer fulness and s o fond o f dancing t o , ,
make so very preposterous a resol ution S h e laughed on hear .
i n g the subj ect treated with such earnestness and con fessed ,
that nothing wa s farther from her own wishes than her present
forbearance but that she was bound by a promise not to danc e
«
,
fo r a whole year I b e gge d an explanation o f this singula r
.
engagement when she told me that during the recent con

, , ,
fi n e m e n t o f her sister our host s wi fe at a momen t when h e r
’
, ,
li fe was despaired o f her mother had made a vow that if s h e , ,
r ecover ed not o n e o f the unmarried gi rls sho uld da n c e for

,
U NIV E R S AL T R A VELL E R . 1 87
S AN TI A GO .
twelve months Her y ounger sister however was dancing ;

. , ,
and I found she h ad m anaged to evade the obl i gat i on by an

ingenious piece o f c a suistry a rguing that as the prom i se h ad , ,
been made in town it could never be intended to apply to the ,

country T he good natured mother who p r o b ab ly r e p e n te d
.
-
,
o f her absurd v o w allo w ed that a good case o f c o n s c re n c e h a d

,
been m ade out ; and the pretty R o s a lit a danced away Wi th a
spirit which was taken up by the W hole roo m and a more a h ,
”
im a te d ball was never seen .
S T his city is si tuated in an ex tensive plain distant

a n ti a go .
— ,
from Valparaiso n inety miles A ccording to Mr Miers it 1 3 . .

,
one o f the finest c ities in S outh A merica in point o f structure , ,

convenience and healthines s but not so with regard to its
,
geographical situation : it is certainly in ferior to Lima and

Bue n os A yres in this respect as well as in the elegance o f its
,
,
public and private b uildings ; but it s urpa sses them in c le a n li
ness and regularity and possesses at first sight a more impo , , ,
sing appearance than it is found to d eserve on a closer exam

i n a t io n Like other S panish towns the city is divided in
.
,
u a d r a s or squares
q .
T his town says C apt Head is full o f priests the people

,
.
,
-
are consequently indolent and immoral ; and certainly I never

saw more sad e x amples o f the e ffects o f bad education or a ,
state o f society more deplorable T he streets are crowded .
with a set o f lazy ind olent bloated monks and priests with
, , ,
their heads shaved in di fferent ways wearing enor m ous fi a t ,
*
hats and dressed some in white serge cowls and gowns and
, ,
others in black The men all touch their hats to these drones
.
,
who are also to be seen in the houses leaning over the b acks ,
o f chairs and talking to women who are evidently o f the m ost
,
abandoned class o f society T he number o f people o f this de .
scription a t S antiago is quite extraordinary T he lower rooms .
o f the most re p utable houses are invariably let to them and it ,
is really shocking beyond description to see them sitting at

their doors with a candle in the back part o f the room burn
,
ing be fore sacred pictures and images .
T he power o f the priests h as diminished very much since

the revolution T hey are not respected they h ave almost all
.
families and lead most disreputable lives

, S till the hold they .
h ave upon s ociety is quite surprising T he common people .
l augh at their immorality yet they go to them fo r images and ,

’
I w a s o n e day in a h air dres s er s s h o p a t S an tiago , w h en a p r ies t c a m e in
-
to h av e h i s h e ad s h av ed, an d I s to p p ed t o s ee t h e o p er a tio n
.
T h e n es t w a s
l
.
a s leek fa t m an o f a b o u t fo r t y W i t h a r e m ark ab e s h o r t n o s e a n d s a lo w co m
l
p ex i o n . l
Th e m an a t h ered him w ith t h e gr e a t es t r es p ec t, a n d t h e n s h aved
t h e lo w er p ar t o f t h e h ead ab o u t a n in ch a b o ve t h e e ar s al l r o un d, a n d di s c o v
er ed b u r is w h i ch a s t u de n t o f G all an d S p urz h eim w o uld h av e b ee n s h o c k
ed a t g 18 h e ad w as de ad y w h it e a s o un g p o rl and w h i e t h e b ar b er w a s k o
l
di
;
l
.
’
t ur n i ng t h e pri es t s h ead in differ e n t r ec t i o n s , I r e a l y th o u gh t i t al t o et h er
t h e m o s t u n c m li z e d O p er a tio n I h ad ev e r w it n es s ed ; a n d w h en i t w as uis h g
l
ed a n d t h e m an s to o d up , h e o o ked so very gr o te sq ue t h at I cou d s car cely l
refr ai n fro m l aug h in g .
1 88 U NIV E R S A L T RAVELLER .
C H IL E .
p ictures , and they send their wives and daughters to con fes s
to the m T hree times a day the peo p le in the streets take o ff
.
their hats or fall down o n their knees

, .
During the day one constantly meets a c ala s h d r a w n by two

m ules driven by a dirty boy in a ponch o and followed by a
, ,
lin e o f inh abitants with their hats o ff each c arrying a lighted .
c andle in a lantern ; every individual in th e street kneels and ,

those who have windows towards th e streets (who are gene
rally the females I h ave described ) are obliged to appear w ith
a l ighted candle In the inside o f the c arriage sits a priest
.
with his hands upli fted and clasped In this syste m o f d e p r a v .
ity the great sinner pardons the little ones S ins are put into .
one scale a nd money into the other and intent upon th e bal ,
ance both parties forget the beauty and simplicity o f religion

, ,
which they nom inally pro fess .
T he s i e t a at S antiago is as long as it is at Mendoza T he

s .
sh ops are shut at noon and remain closed fo r four or five ,
hou r s d uring whic h time a ll business is at an end

,
.
T he c li m a t e o f S antiago is similar to that o f all the parts o f

Chile w h i c h I V isited T he day in summer is b urning hot ;
.
the nights delight fully cool During the day the sun re flected
_
.
, ,
from the m ountains which surround the town on every side ,
and which o f course obstruct the breeze h as a greater heat
, , ,
than is natural to the lati tude A t night the cold air rolls down .
the snowy sides o f the A ndes and fills the C hilean valleys wit h ,
a cool atmosphere which is unknown to th e great plains on
,
the other side o f the C ordillera T he e ffect o f this stream o f .
cold air is very agreeable and people whose occupati on , ,

screen them from the s u n in the day enj oy their even i ng s ,
’
ramble ; and as the sky is very clear the climate o f C hile is ,

o ften described as being extrem ly healthy Yet the leas t e .
learned but perhaps the mos t sat is factory proo f o f the h eal th i
,
ness o f a climate is not the brightness o f the stars or the color

, ,
o f the moon but the appearanc o f men s and women s faces
’ ’
e
,
and certainly the people o f C hile in general and o f S antiago ,
in particular have not a healthy appearance T he E nglish
,
.
there als o look very pale and e x h austed and althou gh they
, , ,
keep each other in c o u n te n a n c e it appeared to me that a , ,

,
strong dose o f B ritish wind with snow and rain and a fe w o f , ,

“ ”
what the S cotch call sour mornings wo uld do them a great ,
deal o f good .
f
T h e t o wn s o in the finest
C h il eparts o f the
ar e c oun bu i lt
try but not always placed so advantageously as they m ight
,
h ave been fo r th e p urpose o f commerce T he streets are about .
forty feet wide i tersecting each other at right angles and

,
n ,
forming so m any sq u ares T he h ouses i n general are built o f

.
mud or clay ha rd ened in the sun having but one story with a , ,
garden attached to each o f th e m many however o f more r e , ,
cent construction are composed o f brick or stone and fur

, ,
nis h e d with upper stories .
1 90 UN IV E R S A L T R A V E LL E R .
C H IL E .
to allude to the route b etween Buenos A yres and S antia go

a cross the pampas and the great C ordillera From B ueno s .
Ayres to Mendoza or U spallata (the latter o f which is about

, ,
2 0 miles from Mendoza and is distinguished fo r its large and ,
rich s ilver mine ) the time occupied is about fourteen days
, .
T he whole j ourney b etween Buenos A yres and S antiago i n ,

cluding the passage o f the great C ordillera usually occupies ,
three weeks but the horses to accomplish the j ourney in that
, ,
time must be kept upon the full ga 110 p in all cases where such
,
speed is practic able C apt Head th us describes the passage . .
o f the great C ordillera :

A s I was looking up at the region o f sno w and as my mule ,
was scramb ling along th e steep side o f the rock the capata z ,
overtook me and asked me if I chose to come on as he w as
, ,
goin g to look at the L adera de las V ac o as to see i f it was
”
,
passable be fore the mules c ame to it He accordingly trotted
, .
on and in h al f an hour we arrived at the spot It is t h e worst

, .
p ass in the C ordillera T he mountain above appears almost .
perpendicular a n d in on e continued slope down to the rapid

,
torrent which is ra ging underneath T he sur face is covered
, .
with loose earth and stones which have been brought down by
the water T he path goes across this s 10 pe and is very bad
.
,
fo r about seventy yards being only a fe w inches broad ; but ,
the point o f danger is the spot where the water which comes
down from the top o f the mountain either washes the path ,
away or covers it over wit h loose stones We rode over it
,
.
,
a n d it certainly was very narrow and bad In some pl aces .
,
the rock almost touches one s shoulder while the precipice is ’
,
immediately under the opposite foot and high above the head ,
are a n umber o f large loose stones which appea r a s if the

.
,
slightest touch would s end them rolling into the torrent b e

neath which is foaming and rushing wi th great violence How
’
,
.
ever the danger to the rider is only imaginary fo r the mules

, ,
are s o c are ful and seem so well aware o f th e ir s itu atio n that
, .
,
there is no ch ance o f their m aking a false step A s soon as .
we had crossed the pass which is only seventy yards long the , ,
c apataz told me that it was a very b a d place fo r baggage

mules ; that four hundred had been lost there and that we ,
should very proba b ly lose one ; he said that he would get , "
d own to the water at a place about a hundred y ar d s o ff and ,
wait there with his lasso to catch any mule that might fall into
the torrent and he re quested me to lead on his mule How
,
.
e v er I was resolved to see the tumble i f there was to be one so

, , ,
the capataz took away my mul e a n d his own and while I stood ,
on a proj ecting rock at the end o f the pass he scrambled down ,
on foot till he at last got to the level o f the water

,
.
T he dro v e o f mules now came in sight one following a n ,

oth er ; a fe w were carrying no bur d ens but the rest were ,
either mounted or heavily laden and as they wound along the ,

crooked path the d i ff erence o f color in the animals the di ffer
, ,
ent colors and shape s o f the bagga ge they were carry ing Wi th ,
P A S S A G E OF T HE G R E A T C O R D ILL E R A .
th e p i cturesque d ress o f the p o n s who were voci ferating the e ,
wi ld song by which they drive on the mules and the sight o f ,
th e da n gerous p ath they had to cross formed altogether a

’
-
,
V ery interest ing scene .
A s soon as the leading mule came to the commencement o f

the pass h e stopped evidently unwilling to proce ed and o f
, , ,
course a ll the rest stopped also .
He was the finest mule we h ad and on that account had ,

twice as much to c arry as any o f the others ; his load had never
been relieved and it c onsisted o f four portmanteaus two o f
, ,
which belon ed to me an d whic h contained not only a very ,
heavy bag 0 dollars but also papers whic h were o f such con
, ,
sequence that I could hardly h ave continued my j ourney with
,
out them T he peons now redoubled their cries and leaning
.
,
over the sides o f their mules and picking up stones they threw , ,
them at the leadi n g mule who now commenced his j ourney ,

over the path With his nose to the ground literally smelling
.
,
his way he walked gently on o ften ch anging the position o f
, ,
his feet i f he found the ground would not bear unti l he came
, ,
to the bad part o f the pass where he agai n stopped a n d I then , ,
certainly began to look with great anxiety at my portmanteaus ;
but the peons again threw stones at him and he continued his ,
ath and reached me in s a fety several others followe d A t

,
.
ast a young m ule c arrying a portm anteau with two large

, ,
sacks o f provisions and many other things in passing the , ,

bad point struck his load against the rock which knocke d his
, ,
t w o hind legs over the precipice and the loose stones imme ,
d i a t ely began to roll away fro m under them : however his fore ,
legs were still upo n the narrow path h e h a d no room to put '
his head there but h e placed his nose on the path on his le ft
, ,
and appeared to hold on by his mouth : his perilous fate was
'
soon decided by a loose mule who came and in walking alon

a fter him knocked his comrade s nose o ff the path destroye d
,
’
, ,
his b alance and head over heels the poor creature instantly
,
commenced a fall which really was quite terrific With all his .
baggage firmly lashed to him he rolled down the steep slope ,

"
,
until he came to the part which was perpendicular and then h e ,
seemed to bound o ff and turning round in the air fell into th e
, ,
deep torrent on his back and upon his baggage and instantly , ,
disappeare d I thought o f co u rse that he was kille d b u t up
.
he rose looking wild and scared and immed i ately endeavored

, ,
to stem the torrent which was foaming about him It was a .
no b le e ffort ; and fo r a moment he seemed to succeed b u t t h e ,
eddy suddenly c a u gh t t h e great load which was upon his back ,

'
and turned h i m completely over ; down went his head with a ll

t h e baggage and h e was carr i ed down the stream ; a ll I s a w
,
were h i s h ind quarters and his long thin wet tail lashing the , , , ,
water A s suddenly however u p his head came again ; but

.
, ,
h e was now weak and went down the stream turned round and
, ,
round by the eddy until passing the corner o f the rock I los t
, ,
S i ght o f h i m I s a w how e ver th e peons wi th their lass o s in
.
.
,
19 2 U NIVER S AL T RAVELLER .
C H ILE .
their hands run down the side of the torrent fo r some little
,
distan ce ; but they soon stopped and a fter lookin towards the ,
p oor mule fo r som e seconds their earnest a ttitu e gradually ,
relaxed and when they walke d towards me I concluded that

, ,
all was over I walked up to the peons and was just going to
.
,
speak to them when I saw at a distance a solitary mule walk
, ,
ing towards us !
We instantly perceived that he was the Ph aeton whose fall
we had just witnessed ; in a fe w moments he came up to us
to j oin his comrades He was o f c ourse dripping wet ; his eye
.
looked dull and his countenance was dej ected : however none
, ,
o f his bones were broken he was very little c u t and the b ulle , ,
tin o f his health was altogether incredible .
With that surprising anxiety whic h the mules all h ave to

j oin the tr 0 0 p or rather the leading mule which carries th e
, ,
bell he continued his course and actually walked over the
, ,
pass without compulsion although certainly with great caution ,
.
We then continued o ur course fo two hours until we c ame r ,

“ ”
to the Rio d e las Vac o as which is the most dangerous tor ,
rent o f any o f those which are to be crossed We got through .
it with sa fety but it was very deep and so excessively rapid

, , ,
that large stones were rolled down it with the forc e o f the w a
ter T he mules are accustomed to these torrents but they
.
,
are notwithstanding much frightened at them and it is only
, , ,
long spurs that can force them into them .
*
From this time nothing worthy o f notice occurred to C apt .
Head or his party T hey at len gth reached the summit and
.
, ,
to use his langua e it was really a moment o f great triumph
,
and satis faction : ith er to I had always been looking up w ards ,
but now the di ffi culties were all overcome and I was able to ,
look down upon the mountains T heir tops were covered with .
snow ; and as the eye wandered over the di fferent pinnacles ,

and up the white trackless ravines one could not but c on fess ,
that the scene cheerless and inhospitable as it was was never
, ,
‘
th e le s s a picture both m agnificent and sublim e .
T he descent o f the A ndes on the C hilean side is upon th e

whole less di ffi cult and dangerous than that on the B ueno s
A y r e a n side Greater quantities o f sno w are found on the fo r
.
mer than on the latter and consequently the path is o ften ex

,
c e e d i n gly treacherous and not un frequently the snow m lting

, e
o f a sudden causes torrents o f water to pour down the si d es o f
,
the mountain with grea t power o ftentimes terrific both to the ,
mules and their riders C aptain H ead and his party however
.
, ,
m ade the descent wit h out any serious accident On one o c .
casion they met with the following interesting incident which

, ,
he thus describes : We were riding close to a very high per

p e n di c ul a r mountain which was on our right and were a l l ,
lookin g up it and m aking remarks upon its singular form a
,
,
t ion when we heard a sound li ke a sudden explos i on o f a
,
Head s ’
N otes .
1 94 U NI V E R S A L T RAVELLER .
C H ILE .
cloak called p on ch o in the form o f a scapulary with an open

, , ,
ing in the head and o f a su ffi cient length to cover the hands
,
and the knees T he color o f the poncho is greenis h blue

.
among the lower orders b ut o f di fferent colors among the ,

higher classes and generally striped and orn amented with
, ,
flowers and animals T he rest o f their clothes is alwa ys een
.
ish blue which is the color o f the n ation T heir hea s are
, .
c overed with a bandage o f embroidered woc which they

,
raise a little as a mark o f courtesy T hey w ear round their .

‘
bodies a woollen s ash ; the lower class go bare footed but peo ,
p l e o f ra n k wear woollen boots and leather sandal s .
T he wom en who are delicately formed a n df r e q u e n tly h and

, ,
some are remarkable fo r the modesty and simplicity o f their
,
attire A tun i c a girdle and a short cloak clasped be fore
.
, , ,
with a silver buckle and always o f a greenish blue color are

, ,
invariably the articles o f their dress T he tunic which has .
,
no sleeves descends to their feet and is fastened on their
, ,
shoulders with silver buckl e s T heir h air floats in grace ful .
tresses over their sh oulders and a false emerald sparkles i n ,
their forehead s T heir square ear rings ar e o f silver their

.
-
,
necklaces and bracelets are m ad e o f glass and a silver ring is ,
worn u pon each finger A s ornaments o f this kind are used .
even by the poorest class it is c omputed th at a hundred thou ,

sand marks o f silver are employed in female ornaments .
T he f ood o f the A raucanians is chiefly Indian corn and p o~

t a to e s ; and when they d o eat flesh which is very seldo m it is , ,
s imply boiled or roasted T hough they h ave plenty o f excel

.
lent fish they do n o t use it m uch as food T heir substitute fo r

,
.
bread is sm all c a k e s o r roasted potatoes with s alt T heir

,
.
.
drinks are Various kinds o f beer and cider m ade from their ,
corn and fruits T hey are very fond o f wine which they pur
.
,
ch ase from the S p aniards though their own climate and soil ,
is well adapted fo r the culture o f the v ine T heir mode o f liv .
ing is in general temperate ; but at the public entertainments

, , , ,
which are given at m arriages funerals and other events o f im , ,
portance they are e x tremely pro fuse and lux urious T hree
,
.
hundred people s ometimes partake o f these fe asts which last ,

o ften fo r two or three days and which are open to every per ,
son without invitatio n When they give feasts on the occasion
.
o f cultivating their fiel d s thrashing their grain or building a , ,
house no pers c h is allowed to part icipate but those who have

, ,
labored till the work is done From their fondness fo r fe r .
m e n te d liquors they consider every entertainment as wretch

,
ed when they h ave not plenty to d rink T hese B acchanal i an
,
.
feasts are accompanied with music and dancing ; but t h e w o

men are generally forced to dance in separate companies fro m
t h e men .
T h e Ar a uc a n i a n wom en are r emarka bl e fo r their n e atn es s

U NIVER S AL TRAVELLER 1 95 .
A R A U C AN I A N S .
a n d cleanli ness T heir houses and courts are swept several

.
times e v ery day ; a n d whenever any u tensil is use d it is ,

i mmediately washed in the ru nning stream T he women .
comb their heads t wic e a d ay ; and wash them once a week

with soap m anu factured from the bark o f th e q u i ll a i ; and a
spot o f dirt is never to be seen on their clothes T he men
g
per form the s ame acts o f cleanliness T heir houses being .
placed o n the banks o f rivers they bathe three or four t i mes

a d ay in summer and always once in winter ; and hence ,
they have at tained a remarkable expertness in swimmin g and
diving .
T he A raucanians are celebrated fo r the number and i n

.
g en u ity o f their g a m.
es T he game o f c hess which they cal l .
,
c o m i ca n has been in their possession from time i m m e m o
,
rial Their gam e o f q u ech u resembles backgammon ; but in

.
place o f di c e they use triangul ar pieces o f bone m arked with

, ,
points which are thrown with a sm all hoop supported by two

,
p c gs .
T he youth s amuse themselves in wrestling running and , ,

playing with ball T heir chie f games however are the p eu co .
, ,
and the p li c a n the first o f wh ich represents the siege o f a

a ,
fort and the other a regular battle
,
In the p euco several per .
,‘
sons joinin hands form a circle round a little b o y T heir , .
ene m ies w 0 equal them in number attempt by stratagem

, , ,
o r for ce to take possession o f the boy which gives great ex

, ,
er c is e to the skill and strength o f both parties T he p a li ca n .
i s played with a wooden ball c alled p a li on a plain h al f a , , ,

mile long marked out by branches o f tr e e s a n d exactly
, .
,
°
similar to th e or p s to o f the Greeks the ca i ci co o f the Floren

a
,
tines , and the s h i n ty o f the S cotch T he succes s ful players .
obtain great credit and are invited to a ll the pr incipal parties ,
in the c ountry S ometimes two provinces challenge each

.
o t h e r and cro w ds o f spectators assemble to witness the spec

,
tac le .
As the use o f money h as not been introduced into the king

dom their comm e c e is carried o n by b arter which is regulated
,
r
,
by a kind o f conventional tari ff T hus a horse or bridle is one
.
.
payment an ox two d c T hey trade chiefly with th e S pan

, ,
o .
ia r d s who live in the province o f Maule on the frontiers o f

, ,
A raucania and wh o exchange iron ware bridle b its cutlery
, , , ,
grain and wine fo r the i r p o n ch i or cloaks horned c attle horses
, , , , ,
ostric h feathers curiously w r o u ht baskets and other ar
, ,
t i c le s o f a more trifling n ature 0 fe wer than o f these .
p on ch i are exported annually fr om A raucania T h e S paniards

who e ngage i n this trade apply fo r permission to t h e heads
.
,
,
o f fam i i es ; and a ft er having received it they p roceed to every
l , ,
h ouse and distribute their merch andise to every person who
,
a ppears When the sale is over he notifies his departure ; an d ,
all the p urchasers wi th t h e most scrupulous fidelity hasten t o , ,
del iver to h im at the first villa ge he reaches

, ,
th e commoditi es
which the y bartered .
A mong the A raucanian t r a di ti ons is that o f a great d eluge , ,

from which a fe w individuals were preserved b repairin g to
a high mountain called T h eg th e g the thun er ing or the -
sparkling which ha d three points and floated upon the water

,
, , .
Dreading that a fter an earthquake the sea will a gain deluge ,

the world they fly to mountains similar to T h e g—t h e g ; and
, ,
imagine that in conseque nce o f this rese mblance they must
, ,
h ave the property o f moving upon the waters During their .
superstitious pilgrimages they carry with them a supply o f ,

r o vis i o n s and wooden plates to protect their head s from th e
,
urning sun lest the mountain T h eg th e g s h o uld b e elevated
,
- ’
b y th e waters to the height o f that luminary -

.
T he only ceremony which attends thei r m a r r i a g es i s that o f ,

carrying o ff the bride by open violence Her father and her .
intended husband accompanied with other friends conceal , ,

themselves near the place where the bride is to pass When .
ever she appears she is seized and put on horseback behind

, ,
the bridegroom ; and notwithstanding her resistanc e and ,

counter feited shrieks she is conveyed t o the house o f her hus
,
band where h er relatives are assembled to receive the c u s

,
t o m ar y presents .
T he f un er a l r i t es o f the A raucanians be ar a strong resem

blance to those o f the ancients When an A raucanian dies .
,
his body is laid upon the ground and his weeping relation s ,
and friends sit round it fo r a considerable time T he body .
,
decked in the best apparel which he w o re when a liv e is , ,
*
p laced on a high bier and is watched by the mourners duri ng ,

the m m which is generally spent in weeping o r in feastin g
o
,
with those who com e to condole with them A ft er the termi
,
.
nation o f this black entertainment as it is called and an inter , ,

val o f one or more days the corpse is c arried in procession to ,
the family burial round in a wood or upon a hill T he c av , ,

.
alcade is precede by two young men riding at full speed ; the ,

bier supported by the relations o f the deceased and c h o ir
, ,
cled b y females who like the hired mourners amon the R 0
, ,
mans bewail the loss which has been sustained ; w h i e another
,
fem ale follows the procession strewing ashes on the way , ,

,
to prevent the return o f the soul to its earthly abode When .
the m ourners reach the burying ground the corpse is laid -

,
u pon the earth and surrounded with his arms i f a m an but

, , ,
i f a woman with fem ale implements,

A great quantity o f .
provisions and vessels filled with chica and with wine are
, ,
deposited beside the corpse to support it i n its passage to the ,
next world ; and a horse i s sometimes killed and interred in
.
the same spot A fter covering the body wi th earth an d

.
s tones in a pyramidal form and p our in g u p o n thi s tum u lus a

, ,
198 U NIVER S A L T RAVELL E R .
PAT A GO N I A .
w ood ,and their saddles resemble our pads No s tirrti p s a r e .
used and both sexes ride in the same m anner galloping with
, ,
out fear over the most rugged roads .
a good and a bad principle The first is call

T h ey w or s h ip .
ed or chie f in the land o f strong drink and by some

T o n ch a , , ,
the lord the dead ; they consider h i m the creator o f all
of
thin gs who never a fterwards troubles him sel f about his crea
,
tures T he evil principles are termed the wanderers without

.
,
an d the dwellers in the air wh o are viewed as the protectors ,

o f some and the injurers o f others Heaven they consider
,
.
the land o f drunkenness where they will find plenty o f chu ,

cha a nd enj oy hunting the ostrich P olygamy is a llo vve d
,
. .
Widows express their mourn ing by blackening their faces

fo r a year a fter the death o f their husbands On the decease
'
o f a person they remo ve his flesh from the b ones either by

, ,
burning or cutting and then form a skeleton o f them which
, ,
bei n g decked in the best robe s with vario us weapons is
“
, ,
placed in a sitting posture in a deep square pit covered with

tur f .
Th e P De Cordo v a
a t a g o n i a n s , a e c o r din
g to A dmiral Don A .
,
are a collection o f wanderi n g savages who occupy all that ,
vast tract o f country e x te n d in from the Rio de la Plata about
S latitude 37 to the S trait o Magellan in S latitude 52
.
°
.
°
T heir most settled habitations are in the interior o f the coun

t r y ; but in the hunting sea son they approach the strait where
, , ,
navigators have m et with them .
T h ei r s t tu r e so much disputed ex ceeds in general th at o f

a , , , .
E uropeans S om e o f them being measured accurately, we

.
found that the tallest did not exceed 7 feet 1 } inches B u r g os ,

m easure ; and that the common size was f rom 6 to 7 feet 1
,
.
*
But even this height is not so striking as their corpulenc e or ,
rather bulki n ess some o f them m e a s ur in four feet four inches

,
round the breast ; but their feet and b a n s are not in due pro
portion to their other parts T hey all give evident signs o f .
stren th o f body ; they are full o f flesh but cannot properly be ,
calle fat T he size and tension o f their muscles evin c e

.
strength ; and their figure on the whole is not disagreeable , , ,

although the head is large even in proportion to the body ; the ,
face broad and fla tti s h the eyes lively and the teeth extreme , ,
ly white but too lo n g,

T heir complexion like that o f other
.
,
A mericans is c et i n o (pale yellow ) or rather verging to a
,
r , ,
copper color T hey wear thin black straight hair tied on the
.
,
Th e va r a , o r y ar d o f B ur go s , th e s t an dar d o f S ain , c o n t ain s in ch es,

o r t wo f e e t n in e i n c h e s a n d o n e s ix t ee n t h E n g I s h t h e t a le s t P a t az o m an,
o °
l
t h er efo r e, did n o t ex ceed s ix fee t S l X i n ch e s a nd o n e thi r d, E n g i s h ; a n d th o s e l
, .
o f t h e co m m o n s iz e w er e fro m fi ve fee t elev en i n ch es a n d t w o t h ir ds , t o s i x

fee t fi v e in ch es a n d o n e s even th , E n gli s h I t is , h o w ever, t o b e r e m em be r ed,
l l
.
t h a t S p a n i a r ds ar e n o t in ge neral t a l m en , an d t h a t a s ea m a n i s se do m
l
am o ng t h e t a les t o f h is co un tr vm en : t o t h em , t h er efo re, th e P at ago n i an:
m igh t ap p ear gian t s .
NIVER S AL T RAVELLERU 99 .
S T A T U R E — D R E SS . .
to p o f the head wit h a piece o f thon g or riband brought round ,
the ir forehead h aving the head entirely uncovered

,
We o h .
served some with beards but w hich were ne i ther th i ck nor ,
T h ei r dr es s adds much to the e ffect o f their si z e , being c om

’
p osed o f a kind o f c lo ak m ade o f the skins o f llam as or s o r i llo s ,

arranged with some skill , with stripes o f di fferent c olors i n the
inside T hey wear it fastened round the waist, s o that i t covers
.
th em below the cal f o f the leg, letting that part co m monly hang
down which is intended fo r covering the shoulders ; an d when
the cold or other cause induces them to put it over them they
, , ,
hold the upper part o f it with th e hand and so cover them ,

selves entirely with this cloak .
S ome also besides this skin cloak or m antle wear p o n c h o n o s

, , ,
and breeches or drawers o f the same sh ape and sort with ,
those worn by the creoles o f Chile an d Buenos A yres T he .
p o n ch o is a piece o f strong cloth striped with various colors ,

about three yard s long and two broa d having an opening in ,
t h e middle made fo r the purpose o f passing it over the head ;

a piece o f dress extremely proper fo r riding on h orseb ack a s ,
it covers and de fends the arms at the sam e time leaving them ,
in per fect liberty fo r any exertion S ome had ponc h o s m ad e .
o f the stu ff s m a n u factured by our settlers in Buenos A yres .
T he breeches or drawers are very much like those worn in

, ,
E urope ; but their boots are very di fferent bein g formed o f th e ,
skin o f th e l e gs o f th e horse taken o ff whole without cutting , ,
them open and sewed up at one end
, .
T here were h owever fe w Patagonians wh o enj oyed all

, ,
these conveniences T he fa r greater number were almost

.
naked h aving only their skin cloak with a sort o f leather

, ,
purse h anging by a thong fixed round the waist and fastened ,
between the legs with one or two thongs to the former round ,
the waist .
With a piece o f skin or leather fastened round the foot they ,

make a kind o f shoe and fix to it behind two little bits o f
, ,
timber forming a sort o f fork which serve them fo r a spur ;
but they leave o f this part o f their dress wh en they h ave no
intention to go on horseback w hich however h appens very , , ,
seldom .
I t is a very general practice among them to paint the face

w ith white black and red a kind o f ornament contributing
, , ,
very little indeed to the agreeablenes s o f their appearance .
T heir equipage or horse furniture consists o f a kind o f c o v

, ,
ering formed o f several skins o f llam as one over th e other -
, ,
and rolled up a little both be fore and behind so that at first ,
s ight they have some resemblance to a saddle ; the whole fast
ened on with strong leather thongs or straps instead o f girths
T he stirr up is formed with a piece o f woo d four inches long
.
,
s upported at each end by a small thong connected with a n
,
o th e r wh i ch is fastened above t o the
girth T he other parts of .
2 00 U NIVER S AL T RAVELLER.
P A T A G ON I A .
their furniture resemble entirely those us e d b y the I ndians o f '
Buenos A yres with this di fference alone that th e bit is m ad e

’
, ,
o f very hard solid Wood .
A s the Patagonians h ave neither iron nor cord age they sup ,
p y their place with solid timber and straps and thongs o f skin
l ,
or leather .
We saw one am o n g them having a complete E uropean sad

dle a n d bridle but c o ii ld not learn by what means he had a c
quired the m
,
.
A lthough we s aw these people in troops o f 3 00 or 400 to

'
gether yet we can give no in formation concer n ing their w o

,
m e n who never came n ear enough to permit our examination
,
only an o ffi cer who was on shore in the Bay o f S t Gregorio

, .
,
assured u s that their stature was som ewh at shorter than that
o f the men and that they di ff ered very little from the men in
,
their dress .
Th e chil d re n even in their tender years show that they are

, ,
descended from pa rents o f extraordinary size ; and by the
largeness o f their features in dicate t o what they wil arrive , ,
when nature sh all h av e attained it s full vigor and their mem ,
bers sh all be properly d eveloped .
A s th e P atagonians draw no part wh atever o f their nourish

ment from the sea they have establ is h ed their dwell ings in the
,
interior o f the country in the valleys near some rivulet or pond ,
o f fresh water and in the neighborhood o f some mountain to
'
, ,
shelter themselves from the fury o f the Winds ; so that w e could
'
h ave no opportunity o f seei n g their m anner o f lodgi n g and

living h aving only now an d then on board o f the frigate h ad
, , ,
a distant view from which we were not enabled to remark
,
many particulars Nevertheless since we kno w that they .

,
lead a wandering li fe like the A rabs abando n ing the tracts , ,

that fail spontaneously to furnish them with fo od it is natural ,
to suppose that their huts are c onstructed without design or

solidity A s a proo f that they lead an unsettled wandering
.
li fe we can allege that d uring our voy age we met with the
, , ,
s ame tribe established in two di fferent parts o f the strait ,
*
In his first voyage to the S outh in 1 822 C aptain Morrell ih ,
forms u s t h at h aving a desire t o a s c e r t a i n fo r h im s e lf t h e truth

'
r especting the stature o f the P atagonians he made an excur ,
sion into the country f or that p u rpose T h e following i s h is .
a ccount o f his adventure : A ccompanied by two men only I ”
,
proceede d into t h e interior until we arrived at a valley wher e
we discovered a band o f above 200 native Patagonians all o n ,
horseback attending to a drove o f about 3 000 guanacos

,
.
A pprehensive fo r h is own sa fety and th at o f his companions , ,

Morrell concealed himsel f in some underbrush where without , ,
being seen he c au ld observe the m ovements and study th e

, ,
appearance a n d costume o f this singular people .
V o yage to t h e S trai t of M agell an b y Admir al D on A D e Co rdova . .

202 U N IVER S AL T RAVEL L E R .
'
P A T A GO N I A .
read and heard so much o f this gigantic rac e as descri b ed by ,

Ma alh a n es Byron and others
lr
, ,
.
ike most o f my contemporaries I h ave treated these a o ,

counts in a style o f light burlesque or grave skepticism : n ot
that I ever dou b ted that these navigators might h ave seen men
o f six and a hal f or even seven feet in height ; fo r m any s k ele
,
tons o f Indians have been found in the Western S tates o f
North A m erica o f a still greater len th : but I wish to dis c o un
t e n a n c e all exaggerated acc ounts 0 foreign parts which have ,
a tendency to deter investi gation and c ommercial enterprise .
Hawkins fo r instance gravely c autions navigators to beware

, ,
o f the natives on the coast o f Magellan T hey are cruel and -
treacherous says he and o f so lo fty a stature that several

, ,
voyagers h ave called them giants S uch gr a tuito u s a n d un .

‘
neces s ary cautions h ave been the principal cause that this in
t er e s ti n g re gion has never y e t been e x plore
“From all I have seen heard and read on the subj ect I
, , , ,
have no doubt that the P atagonians were once (as some o f ,
the m are now ) the tallest race o f men in the world T hey
, .
were seen by Magellan and others a long time ago and there , , ,
seems to be a natural tendency in a ll anim ated nature to de

generate i h size Other c ountries h ave at a former period
.
contained inhabitants o f as gigantic a siz e as that i mputed to

the Patagonians three centuries ago ; but their descendants
are now degenerated by luxury or refinement and inter m a r ,
r i a ge s with others o f a small stature T h e Patagonians sepa .
,
rated from the rest o f m ankind have not degenerated by lux~ ,
ury or refinement ; but there is no doubt that they have fro m
oppression Fro m whatever stock they may h ave descended
.
,
they were doubtless once existing under more favorable cir
c u m s ta n c es than at present T hey have been driven from the .
southern banks o f the L a Plata and the pampas o f eternal ,

verdure where they once grazed their flocks and herds to the
, ,
extreme southern verge o f the continent where they pre ferred ,

to starve in freedom and independence rather than become ,
slaves to the i r remorseless and unprincipled invaders They .
are now but the scattered fragments o f a colossal fabric the —

ruins o f a pastoral nation T h ough their minds have scorned .
to bend it is not surprisi n g if their bodies have degenerate d

,
in stature .
One thing is certain and I can assert it from my own o h

,
servation and actual inspection there is just as strong testi ,
-
mony in favo r o f a former gigantic race in Patagonia as there ,

is in favor o f the former exi stence in our country o f a race o f
animals now known by the appellation o f mammoth We have .
the bones and even entire skeletons o f this huge creature i n

,
our museums ; and I have seen in the interior o f P atagon i a
the bones and entire skeletons o f men who when liv in gum us t
’
have measured m ore th an seven feet in height T he tomb s .
or sepulchres in which I found them were covered wi th la r ge

ea
h ps of t s ones proba b ly to p
,
revent them fro m b ein g mol es t
U N I VER S AL T RAVELLER . 203
S TA T UR E O F T HE I N H A B ITAN T S .
ed b y w ild beasts T he position o f these was uni formly the

.
same with the head to the east ; and I sincerely regret that
,
a fter thus violating the s anctity o f their final resting place I -
,
h ad not silenced skepticis m by taking possession o f one o f
these gigantic skeletons and b ringing it to the U nited S tates
, .
S uch an acquisition to a museu m would be a very suitable a o

c o m p a n i m en t to the mammoth an d suc h a one shall b e ex
,
h ib i te d i f I ever visit Patagonia
Morr ell ’
s V oyages to th e S o uth S eas .
E U R O P E .
1 . E NGL A ND .
H u m e now m ade th e circuit o f the West ern Continent we ,

are prepared to turn our attention towards other and more
.
distant lands .
It were vain however fo r a to ur i s t lik e ourselves to launch

, , ,
, ,
fo r th u p o n such a travel ling expedi tion as we contemplate ,
without company One obj ec t o f o ur labors at l east — the en
v
t er t ai n m e n t a n d ins truc tion o f others — would in such an event , ,

be lost True our own pleasure might be promoted and this
.
, ,
t o a selfish spirit would be a co nsideration o f value — but we
have learned from an experience o f some years that selfish ,
pleasure is not h al f s o valuable as that which can be shared
by others .
Hence we are solicitous if from no other consideration

, , ,
that those who have thus fa r accompanied us should still be
our companions and having seen what people are at home
, ,
s hould become a cquainted with those ab road T he world is .
wide T he hum an family is greatly diversified Other cha

. .
r a c t e r i s ti c s belong to portions o f them than those which yet

have been noticed Lessons o f importance m ay be deduced
.
from wh at has yet to be e x plored .
Will our travelling companions then continue and wander ,

as we still wander abroad 2
' ”
.
Does the distance startle ? D o the dangers o f a rollin g

ocean deter ? Does imagination trembling at approachin g ,
tempests exclaim , ,
h p e l ft
“
W p ih t e
,
er s no a o is e
’
D ea t h r i des o n e ver y bi llo w .
We are able to c alm such fears T he merit attaches to our .
mode o f travelling that we incur no hazard No tempests

,
.
drive us Neither rocks n o r ree fs nor shores can wreck us

.
, , ,
.
S itting in our quiet h abitation we may launch forth and ima , ,
g i n a t i o n will bear us away with greater speed than i f driven

by wind or waves We need no insurance no outfi t but the
.
—
,
pages which lie be fore us and on every succeeding evening ,
can l ay ourselves down upon a pillow where none molest or , ,
m ake us a fraid .
W i th such inducements — even although we shall impart no

higher interest to our travels than we have done we ven t ure ,
t o invite our readers on board with the assurance that our ,

anchor is w eigh e d o u r canvass floats already in the wind
fl
,
“ ”
and bid d ing our native land good night we already a h -
,
nounce to our re ad ers the sight o f land when c e we again ,
206 U NIVER S A L T RAVELLER .
E N G LAN D .
animate
”
the fa r less handsome countenance of the Paris i an
fair .
In the narrow limits to which we m ust confine our investi

ga ti o n s it were vain to attempt a full anal sis o f the n a t i on l
, a
ch a r a ct e f t h e
r o E n g li s h We shall there ore glance at a fe w
.
o f their more prominent traits leaving our r e a d er s t o form '
their ultimate estim ation o f the character o f this interesting

p e o t e from the several topics which will b e the subj ect o f r e
marfl
,
A nd as blemishes in a portrait especi ally i f they be c o n s i d ,

e r e b le are more apt to b e noticed than excellences it will be
, ,
mentioned a s a ch arge frequently and we think justly made ,
agai n st the E nglish that they are distinguished fo r th eir n a
,
ti on a l p r i d e It is admissible to think well o f one s own gov
.
’
er n m e n t l a ws , religion institutions a n d country ; in other

, , ,
words there is a patriotic feeling which i f not excessive no
, , , ,
one should censure but when that feel ing lead s the subject o f
,
it to d ecr y all other lan d s and all other institu ti o ns it merits , ,
condemn ation A s a nation E nglan d has indee d m any
.
, , ,
things o f which she m ay well boast— o f which she m ay well
b e prou d i f pride be e ver just In a variety o f particulars
,
.
,
England holds a superiority over most other countries Her .
empire is a great one S h e is the m i stress o f the ocean In . .
a sense she controls the comm erce o f the world Her wealth
,
.
is boun d less— her institution s have b ecom e consolidated by

the l a pse o f time — her sway extends over portions o f the
g lobe upon which the sun never sets A nd then a ain in .
, ,
respect to warriors what country has produced t ose o f ,
greater renown — O r i f naval heroes be mentioned wh o com ,
pares with Nelson — O r i f we speak o f intellectual great

ness where are greater than Newton and B acon and Locke ?
, ,
We have no c o n tr o v e r s y w ith the E nglish when they boast '
o f superiority ; b u t it is when their pride grows int oleran t and ,
they pass the sentence o f condemnation and enstamp with ,
meanness and in s ip id ity e v er y other people all o t her countries , ,

insti tutions custom s and laws It is one thing to think highly
, ,
.
o f our country and all that pertains to it and quite another to

, ,
underrate and revile all others “ ”
In truth to u s e the lan .
,
“
guage o f a recent writer it is the unreasonable n ati onal pride ,
and vanity o f the E nglish that make the m so intolerant to a ,

spark o f the same flame in o t hers : were they n o t more pr oud ,
they would not b e moved by the harmless pride o f others
.
.
T his spirit is seldom allayed in an E nglishman by a visit to

the U nited S tates or by a favorable description o f this R e
,
public I f he but hear a farmer in New E ngland express h is
.
contentment in living un d er a govern m ent o f eq ual rights he ,
looks back to his own country and because he was not o p ,

s
p ressed there by poverty or the laws reflects not that others ,
were or he is stung by the honest yankee s rem arks because ’

,
h e reme m ber s that there are in En gland tax es game law s , ,

U NIV E R S A L T RAV E LLER .
E N G LI SH C H AR A CT E R .
and a code o f two hundred capital crimes A n E nglishm a n .
in our country nothing can s atis fy ; he loses both h i s sense o f

,
j ustice an,
d his desire to be j ust ; his judgment may be con
vi n c e d but not his will
,
T he more he i s courted the more he
.
,
is entreated the hi li er does the spirit o f rebuke and sarcas m

,
rise within him e t one o f the most intolerant o f Br i t i sh
.
“
travellers has remarked that though he o ft entimes pro voked ,
the national pride and sometimes s ought to wound h e never
, ,
”
saw an A merican out o f temper In short to use the words .
,
of Bulwer “In his own mind the E nglishm an is the p i vot o f

.
, ,
all th i ngs — the cen tre o f the solar system Like V i rtue her .
sel f, he
S tan ds as t h e s un ,
ll
A n d all t h at r o s a r oun d h i m
l l D rin ks igh t, a n d ife, a n d glo r y fr o m h i s
p t as ec .
’
But let us do the E nglish justice With all their national .
prej udices — their cold and reserved m anner — their h aughty

demeanor towards strangers unless they be men o f rank or , ,
h ave letters o f introduction— they are nevertheles s possessed

.
o f traits which would do honor to any nation They are .
a brave people as all the world well knows ; and more

,
“
than”
brave they are h onorable h o n es t and generous Honor
Z ,
.
, ,
remarks the writer last quoted honor is their creed In .
our relations with foreig n states we h ave been rarely wise , ,

but invariably honorable and we have sustained our national
ch aracter by paying with rigid punct uality the nationa l loss ” .
, ,
T he E nglish are also an eminently g en er ou s p eop l e— not

merely generous in respect to pecuniary relie f when that is ,
demanded but generous in all their s ymp a th i es they feel fo r
,
the persecuted and their love is fo r the fallen
,
.
“B u t it is m ainly th
e p eop l e (properly speaking ) the mas s , , ,
the maj ority that generosity characterizes ; nor is this virtue
,
to be traced to the aristocrati c influences ; among the a ri s to c
racy it is not commonly found A s little perhaps is it to be
,
.
, ,
traced to the influences o f trade ; it is rather connected with
our history and our writers and m ay be considered a rem ,
nant o f the chivalric spirit which departed from the nobles ere
it decreased among the people It is the mul titude who pre .
serve longest the spirit o f antiquity — the aristocracy preserve

only the forms ~ .
“Let us recall f r a moment the trial

o o f Queen Caroli ne ; in
my own mind and in the minds o f the public she was guilty
, ,
o f the crime imputed to her Be it so but the p eople sympa .
th iz e d not with the crime but the persecution They s aw a ,

.
man pampered in every specie s o f indu lgence and repudiating ,

h is wi fe in the first instance without a s s i gn a b le c au s e ; allow
i n g her full l i cense fo r con duct i f she consented to r emain
abroad and fo r eb o r e to cros s the line o f his imperial S y b ar i

,
ti s m o f e x istence ; but arming against her all the h umiliations
and all the terrors o f law the instant she appeared in E ngland ,
-
,
393 U N IVER S AL T R A VELLER .
E N G L AN D .
an d inter fered with the j ealous monopoly o f royal solemniti e s .
T hey s aw at once that this was a course o f conduct n atur al

"
rather to a man o f pass i on than o f honor ; to a man o f honor ,

disgrace to his name would have seemed equally punishabl e .
whether perpetra ted in Italy or in England T he queen cease d .
to be th e de fendant in a court o f law a nd seemed to the public ,

the victim o f a system o f oppression T he zeal with which .
the lower orders supported her was the zeal o f chivalry ; the ,
spirit which Burke invoked in vain fro m a debased nobility ,
leaped at once into li fe among a generous p eople C ompare .
the subservient and smothered disgust o f the aristocracy with

the loud indignation o f the people which was the more i n
—
d i c a tiv e o f the nobler emotions or which preserved in th e ,
higher shape our national characteristic o f generosity Who
are t hey that feel the most deeply fo r the negro slave — the
people or the nobles T he people Who attend th e meetings .
in beh al f o f Poland ? the aristocracy — some t w o or three o f

t hem indeed fo r the vanity o f uttering orations ; but it is the
people who fi ll the assembly T he people m ay be right or
,
.
,
they m ay be wrong in their zeal for either cause ; bu t it is at
,
least the zeal o f generosity .
A nother national characteristic o f the E nglish is their sp i r i t

“ T his s ays ulwer “ has been the s aving
of i n d us t r y . B , ,
p rinciple o f the nation counteracting the errors o f our laws , ,

and the imper fections o f our constitutions We have b een a .
g reat people because we ,

have always been acti ve a n d a ,
m oral people because we have not le ft ourselve s time to b e
,
vicious Industry is in a word th e distingu ishin g quality o f
.
, ,
our n atio n th e pervading genius o f our riches our r a n d eu r
,, , ,
and our power A nother writer remarking upon i e indus

.
,
tr i o u s habits o f the E nglish observes :
“ A n E nglishman while
, ,
he eats and drinks no more than another man labor s three ,
times as m any hours in the course o f the year His li fe is thre e .
common lives People o f other countries have some leisure

.
hou rs ; an E nglishm an none You may know him fi o m all .

'
the rest o f the world by his head going be fore his feet and by ,
pushing along as i f he were going fo r a wager ” T h e s ame .
writer also adds that an A meric an gentleman on h is first

, ,
“
arrival in London observed that all the people in the street
,
seemed as if they were going on an errand and had been ,
charged to m ake haste back T his incess ant propensi ty to .
activity is not confined to any parti cular class ; it is equally

displayed in the garden o f the laborer the field o f the farmer , ,
th e workshop o f the artisan the counting house o f the mer ,
-
ch ant and the amusements o f the gentleman

,
.
I n r es p ect to a d es i r e f or kn o wl edg e a regard fo r morality , ,

religion and a disposition fo r public benevolence there is
, ,
m uch to adm ire among the English T he pub lic b enevole nt .
E ngl n d an d th e E ngli h b y Bul wera s , .

210 U NIVER S AL T RAVE L LER .
E N G L AN D .
T h e h i gh er l a s s es c o f it is said
th e E n g li s h o bs er v e
, ,
s i mp lici t
y f d r es s ,
o except on public occasions than the trades ,
me n the linen drapers mercers &c T he latter are the fi nest
, , , .
dressed people in and about London The fashion o f the co ur t .
dress has experienced no change fo r seventy years T he coats .
are without collars and h ave wide sleeves and broad skirts
, .
T h e ladies have hooped skirts and high head dresses Youn g -

.
people in the metropolis and large towns are fond o f showy a p

parel which the improved state o f the manu factures ena bles
,
them to indulge in at an easy rate hence on S u ndays and ,
holydays there is among apprentices and servants a show o f

,
fashion and finery T he better sort o f p eople are distinguis h

.
ed howe ver fo r dressing with a V iew to com fort and n eat

, ,
ness T heir garments generally are by n o m ean so scanty
.
, s
nor so mean and strangely absurd as are to be met with on the

c ontinent ; still les s as the D uc de Levis r em arks are the
, ,
worn out clothes which preserving the traces o f a luxu ry u n
, ,
suitable to the condition o f those who wear them appear to be ,
the livery o f wretchedness ; on the contrary all the apparel ,

here seems at first sight fresh from the m anu factory and t h e
, , ,
same tailor appears to h ave cut o u t the co ats o f the whole na
tion ; and we are tempted to ask i f th e E n lish do not export
their old clothes 22 The truth is they Wear t em as long as we ,
do but preserve them better T he dress o f the women is like

,
.
,
that o f the men almost uni for m ; although fashions change
,
in E ngland o ftener than i n any other country C otton and .
woollen stu ffs o f which the texture fineness and patterns are
, , , ,
almost infinitely varied constitute the b asis o f it T his a d

,
.
v a n t a e o us p r a c ti c e
g among a commercial
,
people W h o pos ,
sess rich colonies maintains a multitude o f manu facturers
,
whose use ful and charmin g productions are sought a fter an
_
imitated throughout Europe Large scarlet cloaks with bon .

,
nets o f straw or black silk which preser ve and heighten the ,
fairness o f their comple x ion distinguish the country women ,

which come to market A nd the working farmer preserves .
his clothes by a covering in th e shape o f a shirt o f white brown , , ,

or bl ue d o w las s When a class so in ferior is so well dressed
.
, , ,
we cann ot doubt o f the prosperity and com fort o f the nation
to which it belongs .
and
Th e E n g l is h p r id e th em s elves m u ch up on th ei r r o a s t b eef,
in comparison with that which is ound on the continent it is
f
deci edly s perior but not superior to the b st bee in the
d u ,
e f
U nited tates In general the people
S .
,
ngland live
of E less fa r
luxuriously than the people the nited tates T he mer
of U S A .
ican laborer o en consumes a single

ft in as m ch animal
da u
food as the same description persons in gugland does in a
of
week In the latter country however more animal ood is
.
, ,
f
used th an in France A ccordin g to a late French writer who
.
,
m a y be supposed however to speak some what in favor o f h is

, ,
o wn countr y
“It is a French axiom o f good sense and good
,
UN IVE R S AL T RAVELLE R .
AN E N G LI S H D IN N ER .
c ompany to enjoy one s sel f at table In E n land on the c o n’

.
,
t r a r y to eat to live seems to be the sole ob ect ; here th e r e

‘
, ,
fi n e m e n ts o f cookery are u n known It is not i n a word a
‘
.
, ,
s cience neither does the success ion in whic h dishes should b e

served up appear to be studied T o cover a table w ith i n; .
“
mense pieces boiled or roasted and to demolish them in the

, , ,
co n fusion in which ch ance h as p lac e d them ap p e ars to b e the
'
,
”
w hole gastronomic science o f the country .
T he meat is either boiled or roasted Fish is always boiled .
and served invariably with melted butter E g are exclude .
from E n glis h d inner table s and when prod uce at other mea ls
-
,
are served in the shell E nglish fo wls are o f an indi fferent .
quality and ame is s ubj ected to a process o f roastin g whic h

depri ve s it o fmuch o f its flavor ; T he con fectionary i s b adly
, ,
made and without much variety

,
.
T he following a c co r d in to the Baron D Ha us s e is the o r

,
’
d e r in which an E ng li s h i n n er is served “ T he rst cours e .
c omprises two s oups o f di fferent kinds ; one highly peppere d ,

in whic h float m orsels o f meat ; the other a soup d la F r a nco i s e .
T hey are placed at either extremity o f the table and helpe d ,

by the master and mistress o f the house T hey are succ eede d
,
by a dish o f fish and by roast be e f o f which the tou b e s t part

, ,
is served round Where there is no p la te n a s ala occupie s
.
,
the middle o f the table T his course being removed re gular .
,
e n t r é es are b rought in and th e servants hand round d i s h e s
,
with divisions containing vegetables T he course which fo l

, .
lows is equivalent to the s econ d course in France ; but pre ,

pared wit h out taste it is served c on fusedly E ach guest a t
, .
tacks (without o ffering to his neighbor ) the dis h be fore him .
“ Th e creams have o fte n disappeared be fore the roast i

s
thought o f ; which ill carved always comes cold to him w h o
,
-
,
is to partake o f it T he E nglish c arve on the dinner table
.
-
and as be fore p r o c e ed ingto this operation each person is aske d ,

whether he w is hes to taste o f the dis h or not a considerabl e ,
time is lost in fetching th e plate o f the p erson who ac cepts A '
dinner never lasts less than two hou r s and a hal f or thr ee
hours without i n c lu d in the time the gentlemen s it at ta bl e a fte r
"
,
the departure o f the la ies T he s alad appea rs a gain be fore .
the dessert flanked by some plates o f chee s e A fter the cloth

, .
is removed d ried and green fruit with biscuit are placed on the
,
table T hese compose the not very brilliant de s sert T h e

. .
s e r vi u p o f the dinner however is t h e part about which th e

r
E n gli g ggive themselves‘ t h e least trouble T heir table only , ,
pres ents an agreeable coup l oei l be fore dinner It is the n c

’ ’
.
covered with the whitest linen and a service o f plate o f greater

’
,
var i ety richer and m o r e r es p le rid en t than is to be seen in any
, ,
other country .
“T h e
dessert served conversation com mence s T he ge n,
.
le m e n lean their elbows o n the table to converse more fam il

t
h a w
l r ly ith the i r ne ighbors T h e ladies d r a w on th eir gl o v es .
,
2 12 U N IV E R S A L T R A VELL E R .
E N G L AN D .
a nd in order not to soil them eat their dessert with their fork s , .
Now drinking com m ences to s ome purpose U p to this period .

,
the guests h ave only as it were slaked their thirst with a fe w , ,
glasses o f wi ne taken with eac h other I t is a civility in E n g .
land fo r O ne to take a glass o f wi ne with you On this occ a

'
sion you ar e be gged to na me what wine you choose T his .
propo si tion which is not to be declined imposes on you the

, ,
necess ity o f dri n kin whe n other s are thirsty I t is o ften r e

ne wed with ou t mucgr e a l i nconvenience h owever fo r those
.
, ,
who do not wi sh to drink ; fo r custom allow s you merely t o
s i p a l i ttle from the glass which y o u seem to fill on each fres h ,
ch allenge S ometim es b etween these frequent l ibations b u t

.
, ,
not commonly a glass o f beer is swallowed T his is not won

,
.
d e r ful fo r the strength o f the E nglish w ines is more calculated

,
to excite than allay th irs t T h e s ame want o f regularity and .
system which is observable in the service o f the dinner exists ,

i n the d i s tribution o f th e wine T h e di fferent species o f wine .
succeed each othe r witho ut re gard to their respective qualities .
To empty bot tles and w i n e ea s on (a vi n er ) the conversation

,
-
s
'
,
appea rs to be the o n ly o b j e c t o f the guests
'
“A t a signal given by the host the company rise s but only

, ,
the ladies retir e T he ma s te r o f the house takes his plate and
.
his glass and pla ces hi m sel f n e a r t h e person h e wishes to honor

,
.
T he other gu ests dra w near each other a n d then commence s ,
without interru p tion the ci r culation o f four glass decanters ,

whic h each man a fter hel p ing him s el f pa s ses to his neighbor
,
.
, ,
S ometimes idle conversation springs up on this o c casion ; som e

tim e s interesting political di s cussions which from the warmth ,
o f m anner and t h e force o f argument exhibited are not unlike ,
th ose p a rliamentary discu s sions o f which t h ey m ay be o fte n ,
c onsidered as the rehearsals Local interests are sometime s .
talked o f and above all hunting and co ursing which are in

, ,
E ngland important a ffairs P resently the co n versation b e .
comes more anim ated is carried on across the table and , ,

grows con fused a nd noi s y A fter three quarters o f an hour . .
or an hour they are interru pted by the announcement o f c o f

,
fe e ; b ut instantly a fter thi s announcement the conversation ,

is resumed ; nor d oes it cease till all the subj ects under dis
c u s s io n a r e e x hausted A t length the gentlemen quit the din .
n e r t a b l e and go to joi n the l a dies w h o are fo u nd round t h e

-
,
t e a ta l l e or occu p ied in t u rnin g over a collection o f caric a

-
,
tu r es . C o ffee which has been poured out since the moment

,
o f its an n ouncement and consequently cold awaits the guests , , ,
who in general take but a little pre ferring two or three cup s ,
'
o f ve s trong tea T he party is prolonged till twelve or one

.
’
o c lo c
T here are many exceptions to the state o f things I have
described In many hou s es there are French cooks ; but
.
t h e dinners w h ic h t h e y send up a r e n e i th er appreciated n o r

’
re mark ed In order that the arts may spring up in a country

‘
.
,
s o m e thin g mo r e tha n a rti s t s i s n e c e s s a ry : it i s e s s e n ti al a l s o

21 4 U NIVER S A L TR A V E LL E R .
E N G LA N D .
the cli ff on which it has stood ever sin cethe days o f E d w rd a
S econ d and yet it bears no marks o f decay On the le ft is

'
, .
,
C aes a r s T ower w hich is a b out seven hundred years old o n e
’
, ,
hundred and forty seven feet high and in nearly as good a -
,
state o f pre servation as the other After look i ng at these fo r .
a mo m ent you pass ove r the drawb r id ge and through a n

, ,
im m en s e deep arched gate w ay where y o u find yoursel f e u
, , ,
tering the great quadrangle o f the c astle On your le ft rise s .

,
a n o b le Gothic pile three hundred feet in length the princely

,
, ,
abode o f th e h e r e di ta ry p o s s e s s o r and h is fa mily When they ‘
are there y o u cannot gain admittanc e to the interior A t th e

,
.
time I V isited it they h appened to b e ab s ent and I was p er , ,
m itte d fo r a m oderate fe e to grati fy m y curiosi ty so fa r as I

wishe d S tanding near t h e great eastern gateway when y o u
,
.
enter the quadrangle on the righ t you see t w o unfinished tow ,

ers and in front c onsiderably beyond the op p osite side o f t h e
, ,
square is a very steep eminence on w h ich th e keep a kind o f
, , ,
fort is sit u ated and which seen through the thick foliage o f
, , ,
trees a n d ivy h as a ver y romantic appea r ance In goin g ,

.
thr o u g h what m ay b e calle d the mo r e public a p artments o f

th e fa m i ly m ansion you firs t enter the great hall 6 2 feet long , , ,
3 6 wide and 32 high a n d a most superb hall it is Next come s
, ,
.
the great dining room — th e n t h e ante roo m — then the cedar

'
- -
drawing room — next the state bed room — and a ft er th at th e

- -
state dressing room B esides these they show you th e B ritis h

-
.
,
armory the chapel and so m e oth er le ss i n teresting apart
, ,
m ents A great many paintin s arres t y o ur attention as you
p ass alon g a nd n o t a fe w o f tg
.
em are by distin guished ma s

,
' '
ters T here i h a ve r y c on s picuo us station is C h a r l es F i r s t

.
, , ,
and in a d ark passage a lmost behind the door is O liv er , ,
C r om w ll T ime was when a singl e gun poin ted at the r e

e .
, ,
publican army from the battlements o f this c astle would h ave

'
, ,
bro u ht l i ght enough into this and every dark co r ner alon g
g
,
wit h the cann o n balls with whic h C romw ell wo uld have visited it .
“T he pleasure gr ounds and park consistin o f about 8 00

g ,
acres are mo st taste fully laid o ut amid shrubbery and fl o w
, , ,
ers and lo fty tre es ; as you travers e the gravelled avenue s
,
and serpentine walks e v er and anon you catch s o m e enchant ,

ing glimpses o f lawns and summer hou s es and o f the quiet ,
A von windin its way through this terrestr ial paradise and
li ngerin g as i g
,
to admire the majestic shadows w h ich fall upo n ,

it s
sa me w ri ter rem ark s respectin g the la r g er towns a s
The ,
follow s : “Y o u lo o k in v ain in Liverpool or B irmingham or , ,

London fo r th os e cl e an ; airy and painted dwe llings a n d
‘
, , ,
shop s a n d wareh ouses which you h av e been accustomed to
.
“
see and admire in Baltimore P hiladelphia New York or , , ,
Boston E xc ept in the outskirts o f foreign cities every thin g

.
,
b ears the marks o f age and in some o f the m a s C hes ter fe r , , ,
0
'
Dr.
Hump h rey .
NIVER S A L T RAV EL LER
U 2 15 .
F A RM H O U S E S— C O TT A G E S .
e xample o f deep decay under the wasting hand o f time Th e

,
.
s ty le o f building is rather heavy s olid and enduring tha n , , ,
s howy T he private dwellings warehouses and factories

.
, , ,
a r e higher and more uni form t han wi t h us T he ma ter ials .
are stone and brick T hree or four cent uries a go the former
.
,
greatly predominated ; but now brick s are chie fly used ; a n d

s o much c are is take n to gu a rd against th e communi c ation
a n d spread o f fi re that a single block is rarely burnt ; and
,
you almost never hear o f any thing like those wide spreading -
c o n fl a gr a t io n s which s o o ft en ravage our cities .
“In point o f n ea t n es s b ea u t a nd l e ” the Vi llag e s o f Eng

y if “ , , ,
land are s aid to be alto gether in ferior to ours Instead o f .
having sprung up in a n ig ht they are fo r the most part the , , ,
g rowth o f other cen t ur ies T hey are built o f heavy s tone .

,
with s mall windows and s tee p thatched or tiled roo fs ; the , , ,
e aves and gable ends proj ecting a good deal over the walls .
S ome o f t hem h ave a very antique appe a rance which arrests ,

the attention o f a trave ller who like mysel f had never s een , , ,
any thing o f the kind be fore T he tha tc h is wheat s tr aw laid .
,
o n eight or ten inches thick and quite as impervious to rain , ,
I believe as any other roo f It is s aid to last when well put
,
.
,
o n fi fteen or twenty years E ven the blacksmith s shops are ’

.
,
thatched a nd why they do not o ftener take fire seems strange
, ,
to one who has been a c cus tomed to the us e o f woo d and char
c o aL
”
“ T hes cattered f a r m h ou s es are substantial and fo r the , ,
most part respectable looking dwellings ; built not fo r forty
,
or fi ft y years then to be repla c ed by others equally transito
, ,
ry but to last fo r ages E very th ing w i thin as well as t h e .
,
o uter walls is s olid and enduring T he floors the partitions .
,
, ,
the heavy oak doors and ceilings the furniture all promis e to , ,
go down s everal generations T he b arns are s mall compared .
,
with the quantitie s o f hay and grain which a New E ngland or

Pennsylvania farmer woul d think must be put under cover .
Most o f the hay is put up in large stacks near the b arn a n d , ,
the s ame is the case more or less extensively with the wheat , , ,
b arley oats beans &c
, , ,
.
“T he E
g li s h c t t g es o f the be tter sort are exceedingly
n o a
neat and attractive E very thing ar ound them observes M r

.
, .
S tewart in his S ketches as well as the whi t ewashed wall s

, , ,
looks cleanly and c are fully kept ; while honeysuckles and
j ess amines clustering roses and grace ful laburnums with
, ,
their thickly pendent blossoms o f bright yellow overhangin g “ ,
and festooning the doors and windows with s weet drapery ,
add a charm seldom s een in the abodes o f the p oor in our
o w n country and t o my mind give assurance o f some thi n
, , ,
-
-
beyond mere animal e x istence within However rude an .
uncul tivated the mind I would trust much to the hearts o f ,

.
tho s e whose dwellin gs are marked with s uch e vidence s o f

taste and
.
S tewart S ketch es
’
4! s .
2 m U ni vER s A L TR AVEL L ER .
E N G L AN D .
Th e f a vori t e c onsist o f huntin g

d i ver s i on s o f th e E n g li s h , ,
c ours ng and horse racing ; rowing and sailing a r e amus e
i -
,
me nts peculiar to them and in perfect unison wit h their insu ,
l ar situation and maritime character T he ringing o f bells is .
also much practised and has b e en b rought to great per fectio n ,

in this country A m o re re fi ned and i ntel lectual entertain
.
m ent is sou ght in the charms o f music which i s cultivated ,

wi t h great success ; and many o f the large towns as well a s ,
the metr o polis have their music meeti ng s and oratorios to
, ,
gether with as s e mbli e s and theatrical enter t ainm ents T h e .
athletic divers i on o f cricket is s till kept u p in the southern and

western counties ; and i s sometime s pract ise d b y persons o f
the highest rank C ock fi gh tin g to the disgrace o f the nation
.
-
, ,
is a favorite pastime among t h e great as well as the vulgar ; ,
and pugilistic contests though sometime s fatal to one o f the
,
,
combata n ts are patronised by what i s termed the sportin g “
,
”
world fo r the sake o f be ttin g upon the d e x terity and strength
,
o f the brutal competitors Bull b e ar and badger b aiting are .
, , ,
chiefly confin ed to the lower order s ; as a r e al s o cudgelling
and wrestling Many other diversions are common in E n g
.
land as trap ball tennis fives bowls skittles nine pin s

,
-
, , , , ,
-
,
quoits pri s on base billiards cards swimming angling & c ;
,
-
, , , , ,
.
to which ma y be added foot and donkey racing dancing , , ,

puppet—s hows and May games T h e E nglish a r e fond o f
,
-
.
s kating but not very

,
expert at it on account o f the short pe ,
r io d s o f fro st in their climate ; yet are they advent urous in it ,

frequently to the lo s s o f their lives .
O f all the amusements to which the E nglish are addicted ,

h o r s e r a ci n g h as perhaps the pre ference
-
T o the i n d ul enc e
, ,
.
o f this sport the richest classes devote the s u p er flu ity 0 their

wealth A n enormous expenditure is apparently m ade fo r
.
the p leasure o f se eing horses r un which are unfit fo r any ,

other kind o f labor A n improvement o f th e breed o f horse s
.
m ay be the result o f these sports o f the tur f ; but the benefit

which grows out o f the practice by no means compensates ,
fo r the destruction which it c auses to good order and good
mo rals .
N ew M a r ket is one o f the m o st renowned race cou rses in -
England T here are observe d three racing season s or p e

.
,
ri ods in every year each containing s ix w eeks with an inte r
, , ,
mission o f every other week A t such seasons an immens e .

,
multitu de fr om the humblest plebeian to the haughtiest noble
,
m an thr o ng the village o f N e w Market The L o ndon paper s
,
.
give weekly details o f all the parti culars o f the proceeding s

o f New Market stating the names o f the horses and o f the
,
owners o f them and the st akes or purses fo r which the horse s
,
ar e run .
or box i ng is also a favorite amusement a n d

P ugi lis m, ,
whenev e r a match ta es place attracts i mmense crowds ,
.
Th ese co nte s ts would b etter befi t th e beas ts of th e

'
s av age
2 18 U N IVER S A L T RAVELLER .
E N G LAN D .
b y the experience o f others , it is seldom that h e can avoid

th e snare But a gambler who has lost his fortun e too o ft en
.
h a s a pleasur e in reducing a ll others to the sa m e conditio n~

A young man is induced to V isit these gaming h ouses from
c uriosity , and a love o f novel ty He plays at first with cau
-
.
‘
tion and it is seldom that the company do not c ontrive that

,
he shall win fo r the first few nights E x citement soon follows .
loss a fter loss at lengt h renders him desperate ; and he soon

finds himsel f upon a level with tho s e whose very names he
would have scorned to pr o nounce but a few m onths b efore .
T he light o f th e sun is exclu d ed from these asylums T he .
shutters are closed and night succeeds day and day foll ows , ,
n ight and yet the gam b lers continue in fierce and desperate
,
contest Hazard and é cart e are the principal games T he
. .
lights cards and dice are supplied by the m aster o f the

, , ,
establishment with a casual re freshment to those who fi n d it
,
n ecessary I f the young man who has been inveigled i nto
.
these haunts can by any e ffort o f courage shake himsel f free

,
be fore it is too late the experience he has gained may be o f ,
s ervice to him ; otherwise he is plunged into irretrievable
r uin bo th o f fort une and principles
,
.
*
T h e f a ci li ti esf and the

or com forts
t r a velli n g i n E n g l a n d ,
w hich one m ay fln d in every part o f it— the roads the inns ,
th e carriages the coachmen the servants — all unite in giving

, ,
t o E ngland a great superiority over all other c ountries on the

g lobe fo r travelling But then the c ost o f tr a v e ll i.n is in pro
portion No kind o f travelling is more agreeable t an that o f
.
p os ti n g T he post
. ch aise resembles a common coach
-
except ,
i n g that it contains but two seats and is shaped like h al f th e ,
body o f a comm o n coach T he usual rate o f travelling is .
a bout ten m iles an hour Relays o f post horses are to be found .

-
a t that distance and whenever the traveller desires a post,

c haise the inn keeper is obli ed to furnish it
,
.
T he m a i l coa ch es destine fo r the transport o f letters are ,

c arriages with four inside and six outside places B ehind the .
c oach a guard is seated wi th a blunderbus s and a pair o f pis ,

tols be fore him T hese coaches travel at the rate o f ten miles
.
an hour S t a g e coa ch es are very elega n t carriages ; when

.
fi lled they carry from fi ft een to twenty travellers besides a

, ,
large weight in packages T he in side o f the coach contains .
only four places T he seat o f the coachman and another .

,
s eat plac ed imme d iately behind it admit o f six persons and , ,
t w o seats facin g each other at the hind wheels a fford places ,

fo r six or eight more T hes e seats are fixed over boots or .
b oxes fo r stowing away the luggage S uch parcels as these .
c annot contain are placed on the imperial ,

T ravellers gene .
r ally however give a pre ference to outside places unless in

, , ,
b a d weather ; and the place most in request the place o f honor

—
,
5
'
G ood rich ’
s U niver s a lG eo gr ap h y .
U N IVER S AL T RAVE LLER . 2 19
TR AV ELL I N G .
and o n e whic h even lords do not the le ft hand o f disdain— is -
the coachman T he co achmen themselves are generally a

.
r espectable class always well dressed — with h ats bro ad

brimmed drab col ored and Quaker like small clothes t heir
,
- —
,
-
boots topped with white ; thus dressed and wi th white gloves , ,

a nosegay in their button hole and their chins enveloped in -
,
an enormous cravat they mount their well cushioned throne ” -
, ,
and there t h ey have a right to stay if they please h o m Man , ,
'
c hester to London On r e a c h in a hotel where the horses a r e.

,
to be exchanged the latter stan ready harnessed in the mid

,
d le o f the s treet— and his coachm anship looks down upon h is
s ubj ects the grooms with a complacent smile fo r th e moment
, , ,
which it requires to take o ff and hitch o n when the sharp crack ,
o f his whip announces that the meas ure o f the next ten mile s
is beg un When these c o ordinate sovereigns meet as they
.
-
,
needs o ften must they exc hange s alutations very significantly
, , ,
by raising the elbo w at a sharp angle and t urning it out to ,
wards each other T he omission o f this a u st etiquette would
.
,
be regarded as a ffording su fficient cause or a complete non
intercourse i f not fo r absolute reprisals In p assin g one a n
,
.
other upon the ro ad all kinds o f vehicle s i n Great Br i tain tur n ,
to the l fi a n d not to the r i gh t as in the U nited S tates T hi s

mode 0gpassing brings both the co achmen o n th at side wher e
.
, ,
the danger o f collision lies and enables them better to avoi d ,

it E ach coachman drives from 40 to 60 miles when he r e
.
,
signs his s eat to another U pon this he advanc es in turn to .
,
e ach pass enger and to uches his hat with the tip o f his fin ger
,
-
a polite mode o f asking o f each one a sh i lling I f you gi ve .
him less he comes to a dead stand— whic h is as much as to

,
s a y that won t do sir and you rummage your purse fo r a fe w
’
, , ,
more c oppe rs Dr Humphrey to who m we are indebted fo r
. .
,
the foregoing accoun t relates the following hu morous a d ven ,
“
ture in his late tour to E ngland : In going fro m Warwick to
” “
London he says it wa s quite dark be fore we reached th e
, ,
city A fter j olting hal f a n hour over the pave ments the c oac h
.
,
t urned into a narrow gloomy alley and our baggage wa s ta , ,
k e n o ff A porter w as at hand and had shouldered my tr unk s
.
,
to carry them to a boarding house in Falcon S quare when I -
,
put what I suppose d to be the customary tribute into the hand
, ,
o f the guard It smote him like the
. shock o f a g al vanic bat
ter y ‘
.P ut d o wn that In gage exclaimed he in a peremptory ,
’
,
tone to the porter at s the m atter quoth I h aven t I
‘
.
’
,
’
,
’
given you enoug h ? ‘

E nough ! do you c all th at enough ? ’ ’
Well how much more do you ask l A sk ! I ask nothing

,
‘ ’’
.
Gentlemen al w a s give wh at they ple a se ; but that won t do ’ ’

.
My spirit I con ess was a little stirred within me A man o f

, ,
.
the world and at home in London wo uld probably h ave c alled

, ,
a po li ce man and taken his g u a r ds h ip to B o w S treet B ut
,
-
.
there I was a per fect stranger in the night and in the heart
, , ,
p f that great city which I had never seen be fore and not choos
, ,
m g to get i nto a quarrel j ust then and there fo r s ixp en c e I , , ,
E N G L AN D .
ave the fello w another metallic shock a b out as hard a s th e ,

‘
rst and stran e to tell instead o f fal ling into convulsion s

, , ,
h e walked deli er ely a way saying that will do a littl e
a t ‘
, ,
better .
’
T h e excellent state o f the r o a d s in E ngl a n d at all s e asons o f

the year conduces greatly t o the pleasur e o f tra vell in g in th at
country T heir roads are not as numerous as in ma n y parts
.
o f t h e U n it e d S tates but they are kept in a fa r better cond i tion

, ,
and are greatly su p eri or t o the roads in France T he most o f .
the great roads have within a fe w ye a rs be e n M A d a m iz e d a n d

‘
,
are kept in repair at what we should deem an enorm ous ex

pense being it is said at an annual cost o f 1 60l sterl ing p e r
, , , .
mile fo r roads o f the first cl ass and 4 0l sterling per mile fo r ,

.
r oads o f t h e second clas s E nglish r o a d s are in gene r al lev e l

.
,
a n d al m o st flat
.
A slight convexity is give n them su fficient
.
,
to turn the waters o ff which are received on either side o f th e
road by a species o f gutter paved in broken s tones with flood
gates T he general r e p air o f the roads is confided to road
.
makers wh os e em p l o y m ent c o nsists in p ickin g u p th e sur fac e

,
i n o r der to s p read the stones ; in caus ing t h e water to r un o ff ,
and in scraping the mud from either side whenc e it is im m e d i ,
ately removed unless intended fo r the purpo s e o f making foot

,
p ath s .T h e b ri dges in E ngland ar e either o f brick or ston e ,

a n d a r e constr u cted with re fe re n c e to com fo rt s a fety and d u ,
,
r a b ility T he d i rection o f the E n gl is h ro ad s is c are fully indi
.
c a te d by the aid o f fi n ge r posts placed wherever there a r e -
bra n ch or cros s com m unications Other fi n ge r p o s ts placed .

'
,
at the bo undar ies f V illa ges enable t h e traveller to ascertain
o
,
thei r respective names T he distan c es are m arked by mile .
stones Within ten miles o f London the roads are watered

.
,
during th e s ummer at the ex pe nse o f companies to whom th e

und e rtaking be l o ng s T his inc o nvenient p ractice is pushe d
.
to such e x tremes as to p roduce a liq uid mud in th e streets o f

London e v e n in the hot test Weather T he obj ect is less t h e
,
.
com fort o f th e traveller tha n the pre s ervati o n o f th e road ,

.
M A d a m iz a tio n has b e en very gen e rally s ub s tituted in the

‘
streets o f Londo n and in th os e o f most towns in lieu o f th e

, ,
old pavement T he result has been a remarkable economy a
.
,
better adaptation fo r travelling a great reduction in the repair s ,
o f carriages and an increase in the duration o f the labor 0 1

,
hors e s .
A mong the wonders o f English civilization the i n n s shoul d ,

be m entioned In many o f the large to w ns they are m a gn ifi
.
cent and they are good and well supplied in the small est In
,
.
the greater part o f them the s ervants are in livery an d in all , , ,

their attendance is prompt and respect ful On their arrival .
,
t ravellers are received by the master o f the house whose de ,
c ent dress indicates a res p ect ful feeli n g towards strangers .
Introduced into a well heated well furnished r o om t h ey h ave

— -
,
n ever to w ait fo r a meal the simplicity o f which in the way , ,
o f cookery is atoned fo r b y the elegan c e o ft en th e richne s s o f
,
.
222 U NIVER S A L T R A V EL LER .
ti ally adopted m o re in E ngland than the U nited S tates but its

,
a dvocates in both countries are yearly increasi n g and corres ~

,
,
pon d ing agric ultural income is the result .
E n glis h agric u lture is also worthy o f no tice in its endeavors

t o i mprove the b eed o f ca t t le Bake well has t h e honor o f lead
'
r . ‘
i n g the way and M att hew and G eorge C u lley o f extendin g th e

,
improvements o f the former Horses cows and sheep h av e .
, , ,
been brought to great per fection in E ngland and are the basis ,
o f a r i c u lt ur a l speculations and profits E ach county has its .
ec u ia r breed
p .
Horses are bred in meadows in th e middle o f which th ey ,
fi n d sh elter in open stables C ows a n d oxen p a ss the summer .
in the fields and the w i nter in enclosed courtyar d s in whic h

, ,
they are fe d with hay and turnips S h eep are t urned the whole .
,
year round into fields sown with turnips and tre foil They
,
.
are prevented from straying away by wickets and moveabl e ,

paling or hurdles
,
T he c u stom of i r r ig a t ion d oes not prevail indeed it is not ,

properly u nderstood in E nglish agric ulture T here a r e .
fe w countries in which this use ful practice is followed thoug h ,

the abunda n ce o f water should m ake it o b t a in e v er y w h er e .
In ch aral the E n glish are either i n d i fferent to or they

g
'
, ,
mis irect the labor that should be bestowed on natural mea,

dows In this branch o f a griculture one sees nothing in E n g
.
,
land which bears a c o m p arison with t h e practice that obtains

,
i n France .
0xen are rarely used and always ill emp loyed in a gr i c ul ,

-
»
tural labor S ix are yoked to a plo u gh which could be easily

.
,
d rawn by two T hese animals are almo st bred to do no ser

.
vice A t four years old they are fattened and delivered ove r
.
, ,
to the kni fe o f the butcher
'
T he rarity o f land carriage may be ranged amo n g the num

b e r and indeed as one o f the m ain c auses o f E nglish a gri
, ,
cultural prosperity Neither the m en nor the animals in .
, ,
c ul t ivating the earth participate in this br a nch o f industry

, .
It is not so in France Whatever p r ej udice ma y be the result

.
to husbandry the hope o f a p r o fi t su ffic es to induce the fa rmer

,
'
to postpo n e the cultivation which the land requires Hen c e .
arise delays inconveniences and what is worse the loss o f

, , ,
agricultural habits In E ngla n d on the contrary the husband

.
, ,
man is never turned from the business in hand and the seden ,
tary li fe which he leads fosters the taste fo r the species o f ,

labor which agriculture requires .
T h e appear a nce o f the rural ha b itations is the same as in

France ; though the n u mbe r and ex tent o f the d epende n t build
ings b e m u ch less in En gland when compared with those o f ,
the former cou ntry still there is a greater intelligence displayed
,
in th e orderly disposal and arra n gement o f each obj ect and a ,
m ore obvious cleanliness than on th e other side o f the straits .
F arm houses are o ften built o f planks painted white or pitch , ,
ed a n d tarred over ; s ometimes o f b rick or stone with roo fs ,

IVER S AL T RAVELLER UN 223 .
M A N U F A CT U R E S .
thatched fi led or slated Compact eart h prepared as it is in

,
.
,
France i s little u s e d in E n land
,
'
.
Owing to the agricultura habits o f E ngland m any bu i ldin gs ,

are not req uired With the exception o f horses a ll a ni m a ls
.
,
'
are kept in the open air in summer as well as in w inter “ T he ,

harvests o f whatever nature are stacked T he corn 1 s not
, ,
.
c arried into the barn till the opera tion o f thrashing is to be

commenced I f this mode o f preserving it saves the expen se
.
o f the necessary outlay fo r the building and repair o f barns 1 t ,

nevertheless superinduces a much greater annual expense than
the interest o f the money required fo r such a building fund ,
when the cost o f hand labor with the stacking and unstack ,
ing o f the corn the loss and destruction o f the grain and the
, ,
facility a ff orded to incendiaries are taken into account ,
.
Farming o ffices are generally built round a square court in ,

which the cattle are enclosed fo r the very s hort time during
which they are prevented from grazing In m any counties .
the house is in the centr e o f the farm — a location which must

obviously save much labor In the U nited S tates the far m .
,
house is o ften at one corner o f the farm from which circu m ,
stance th e transport o f the m anure and the crop is slow and
expensive .
*
U pon the whole agriculture in E ngland is fa r in advance o f

,
that o f many other countries ; st ill it is not better perhap s than
that o f Brabant o f Flanders or o f the province s o f A rtois and
, ,
Normandy or perh aps o f some parts o f France and B el gium
, .
It presents here and there beauti ful m asses o f cultivation ,

owing to the consolidation o f fortunes the peculiar ta ste o f ,
certain proprietors and the union o f large capitals all o f which
, ,
advantages are incidental to E ngland in a greater degree
than in France B u t a well c u ltivated field i s pretty much the
.
-
same in both countries .
enterprise a n d accomplishment
I n m a n uf a ctu r i ng s kill,
, ,
E ngland surpasses all other nations whether ancient or ,
m odern A large proportion o f her population are employed
.
in manu factu ring establishments ; yet by means o f machinery ,

labor is per formed which more than one hundred times that ,
pop ulation would not be able to accomplis h It is stated upon .
respectable authority th at in some m an u fa c tu r in g e s t ab li s h

,
ments by means o f labor—savin g m ac h inery one man is able

, ,
to do th e work o f one hundred and fi fty ; and that fi fty millions
‘
o f men hal f a century since would not h ave accomplished in

, ,
the cotton manu factures what is done at th e present time , .
C otton goods are chiefly m a nu factured in Manchester and

i t ne i ghborhood woollen go ods principally in the West Ri
s
d i ng o f Yorkshire at Leeds Wakefield B rad for d Hali fax, , , , ,,
and Huddersfield cutlery and plated goods at S he ffield ;
hardware at Birmingham ; ribands at Coventry ; carpeting a t
B aro n D Hau s s et
’
.
224 U NIVER S AL T RAVE LLER .
E N G L AN D .
Kidderminster ; fl an n els at S alisbury si lk iron and china , , ,

ware in the midland counties ; and in the southern co untie s
,
cotton paper and blanket s & c &c T he year] m an u fa c
, , ,
. .
-
tures o f cotton are valued at those 0 woollen at

o f silk at 000 and the linen exported at
T he iron weighe d in Great Britain in 1 827 w a s ,
tons T he value o f hardware in cutlery expo rted in
.
1 8 24 was, an d o f tin plates
We designed to notice the p r oc es s of m a nu a ctur i ng several

articles ; but our limits allow us to describe ut one viz p i ns ,
.
,
the quantity o f which made in E ngland has exceeded in value
annually .
“T his simple article which occupies so important a station

,
on th e toilet o f a lady in the course o f its m anu facture passes ,
in detail through nearly as many b an d s as the complicated
mechanism o f the watch One person is employed to polish .
the wire ; a second to cut it in suitable pieces each o f the ,

length o f two pins ; a third person takes several o f the pieces
between his thumb and forefinger and applies them to a cir ,
c u l ar steel grinding wheel or rasp T he pieces o f wire fo r a
-
.
dozen or more pins are thus sharpened at once by the opera ,

tor who dexterously c auses all o f them to turn simultaneously
,
between his thumb and finger ; whereby the points are ren
dered roun d and acute A fourth person divides each o f thes e .
pieces in the middle to form two pins an d slips on the heads

s
,
( which are formed by a fi fth person over the shank o f the

wire A sixth person n o w t ak e s the rudely formed p ins rivets
.
,
the heads and pass e s them to a seventh workman who
, ,
white n s them by means o f a composition o f melted tin T h e
’
scouring or brightening or polishi n g occupies another h and

, , , ,
and the ninth in the series is busily engaged in sticking the
'
p ins into papers fo r
T h e p r o t es ta n t is
r eli g i o n , a ccor d i n g t o th e E p i s cop al f or m ,
the established religion o f E ngland T he king whether an .

,
atheist or a believer stands at the head o f the c hurch Next ,
.
to him ranks the archbishop o f C anterbury who is called the ,

Primate o f all E ngland and next to him is the archbishop o f ,
Y ork called the Primate o f E ngland U nder these are twen

,
.
ty —four bishops all o f w h om ex c ept the Bishop o f S o d o r and

, ,
Man are peers o f the realm a n d hold seats in the House o f
, ,
Lords .
T he bench o f bishops n u mbers individual s as distingu ished

by their talents as by their moral s ; but their inter ference in the
p olitical concerns o f the nation has been a stain u pon their
ch aracter and un der the late spirit o f re form a loud dem and
,
.
has been m ade to exclude them from their seat in parliamen t .
—
T h e revenues o f the bishops are princely b y fa r too gr ea t fo r
P r ac tic l T u i
a o r s t.
226 U NIVER S A L T RAVELL E R .
E N G L AN D .
less , s ilent It rarely h appens that the rolling o f a carria ge

.
comes to interrupt the meditations o f those who pray or to ,

distract the ennui o f those whom custom confines at home .
T he approach o f carria ges to church is forbidden dur ing the

progres s o f Divine s er v we A ll places o f public amusement
.
are closed— the most innocent domestic recreations are ban

is h e d fo r the day I f the sounds o f a piano are heard it i s
.
,
in the accomp animent to psalms In many houses the i n .
,
m ates dine on cold meats prepared the day be fore so that , ,
the ser vants may be relieved from all labor T he reading .
o f a sermon is the only recreation allowed Will it then be .
s aid that a religious spirit does not exist in England ? ”

“On certain serious occasions when the country is menaced
,
or struck with some great calamity the parliament o ri gi nates , ,
and the king ordains a fast No one omits to abstain on this .
day or ventures to turn the measure into ridicu le Wh at

, .
wo uld the lib eral and unbelievers o f France have s aid if in , ,

consequence o f an epidemic Charles X had ordered his sub
j e c ts to abstain from d inn er é T here would h ave resounded
.
cries o f j esuitism the dominion o f priests superstition &c

, , .
T he j o urnals could not have found space enough in the limi ts

o f their columns nor c aricaturists ridicule enough to shower
,
down on the head o f the king and his government William .
IV orders a fast to allay the cholera and every one actually

.
,
fasts goes to church and gives abundant alms
, ,
Is it from o b e .
d i e n c e to the laws from respect fo r p ower 2 Y es but it is als o

’
, ,
from a s p i r i t of r eli gi on .
T here are few even amon g those most indi fferent to r e

,
ligio n who would dispense Wi th the hearing o f a sermon
, ,
though it dwelt u pon the most unpalatable truths which can ,
be rendered neither less repu gn ant nor more attractive by the

talents o f the preacher or Wi th being present at the service
,
that immediately follows if some friend proposed it to them, .
T he reason o f this is to be found in the dread o f making a p a

rade o f irreligion E very one appears collected during the
.
sermon— pious d u ri ng the service People listen keep their .

,
eyes on their book j om in the hymn kneel with the congrega
tion put their hea d in their hands and appear quite absorbed
,
, ,
in pious thou hts n o one co m plains on le a v in church o f , ,
the length o f t e service For the pro fane never eles s there
.
, ,
is no compensation to be found in the commonplace eloquence
o f the preacher nor in the harmony o f a choir o f children o f
,
twelve years o f age mingled with the sharp v oices o f men o f
,
fi fty the whole accompanied by the favorite instrument o f
,
England— a h organ T he English behave themselves deco
.
r o u s ly in church ; they demean themselves as they ought i n

the house o f God T hey m ay be either enn uyé or impatient
.
while there ; tha t is very possible ; but at least they do n o t

s how th at they are so Would it be thus i f the reli io us p u n
g
-
.
,
c i le were not deeply rooted in the national mind 2

Q
’’
p
B aron D Haus sez
’
.
U NIVER S A L T R A
g EL L E R . 227
G OV R NM N T
E E .
Th e g ov er n m en t is a cons titutional hereditary

f
o E ngla n d
m o n archy in which the power o f the sovereign is controlled
,
by the influence o f the aristocracy in the Hou se o f Peers and ,
by that o f the democracy in the House o f C ommons T he .
e x ecutive authority is vested in the king ; the legislati ve in the ,

k in a n d Parliament T he king has the power o f ap p o m tm g
all tg
.
l e great officers o f state and all the executive acts o f the

,
government are per formed in his name ; but the m l m s te r s
only are responsible fo r them ; fo r the king himsel f can do no
wrong .
T he principal co u ncil o f the sovereign is his p r i vy coun ci l ,
th e members o f which are chosen by him T hey are styled .
R ight Honorable and are sworn to preserve secrecy

,
.
T he C a bi n et or C a b i n et C oun ci l consists o f those ministers ,

o f S tate who hold the highest rank in E ngland T he number .
o f members v aries generally from 1 0 to 1 4 ; c onsisting o f the

Lord C hancellor the Lord Privy S eal the P resident o f the
, ,
Co uncil the First Lord o f the Treasury the C hancellor o f the
, ,
Exchequer the three principal S ecretaries o f S tate the First
, ,
Lord o f the A dmiralty and commonly some others o f the pri n
,
c ip al o ffi cers o f government T he First Lord o f the T rea .
sury is considered as the Premier or Prime Minister o f the ,

country .
T he P a r l ia m en t o f Great Britain is the great c ouncil o f the

nation constituting the legislature which is summoned by the ,
king s authority to consult on public a ff airs and enact and r e
’
, ,
peal laws It consists o f Lords S piritual and T emporal called

.
,
the Peers or U pper House ; and K n ights Citizens or Bur
, , ,
gesses wh o are comprehended under the name o f the Com
,
mons or Lower House
, .
T he Ho us e of L or ds is composed o f all the five orders o f

nobility o f E ngland dukes marquises earls viscounts and
, , , , ,
barons who h ave attained the age o f 2 1 years and labor under
, ,
no disqualification ; o f 1 6 representative peers from S c otlan d ;
28 representative peers from Ireland ; 2 E n lish archbish ops
and 24 bishops ; and 4 representative Irish g is h o p s In 1 8 30 .
,
the total num b er o f the House o f Peers was 4 01 .
T he Hous e of C omm on s consists o f 658 members o f whom ,

5 1 3 are from E ngland and Wales ; 4 5 from S cotland and 1 00 ,
from Ireland T hey are chosen by counties cities boroughs
.
, , ,
and the two universities .
*
T he House o f Lords like the S enate o f the U nited S tates

, ,
is a fa r more gr ave and digni fied body than the House o f C o m
mons . T he latter corresponds with the popular branch o f th e
national legislature o f the U n ite d S ta te s T he members o f the .
House o f C ommons present a m otley group T hey are .
dressed in the most careless fashion in frock coats in bo ots ,

-
, ,
with their h ats on or with an umbrella under the arm T hey
listen to fe w o f the speeches
.
T hey but repeat the cry o f .
Am eric an A m an ac, 1 835 l .

22 8 U N IV E T R A V E LLER
BS AL
'
”
hear hear with intonations which give to the words alter
, , ,
n a te ly a meaning o f approbation or disapprobation a s the
, y ,
perceive their friends who have heard the speaker cheerin g ,
ironically or in earnest T hey talk move about cross the .
, ,
room without attention to him who speaks or those who
,
listen It is the custom n o t to leave the house witho ut turn

.
ing towar d s the speaker and bowing to him with becomin g ,

respect .
E nglish orators speak extempore many o f them from notes , .
With some exceptions speakers o f the house are not charac ,

t e r iz e d fo r much grace A maj ority o f those who speak in .
our A merican C ongress speak as well i f not better than the , ,

orators o f S t S tephen s Am erican speeches are in general
.
’
.
, ,
m uch longer than those heard in the House o f C ommons In .
the latter the most important projects are discussed and d eci
,
d e d at a single sitting ; in the House o f Representatives a de ,
bate o n perhaps some question o f minor impor tance is con

, ,
tinned fo r weeks .
T he ex p en es o f the E nglis h government are far beyond

s
those o f any other on the globe amounting fo r the year 1 8 30 , ,

to dollars T he s alary o f the P rime Minister .
,
is that o f the Lord Lieutenant o f Ireland ,
T he salaries o f o fficers pensions sinecures & c exceed , , ,
.
,
annually P ensions are granted fo r all sorts o f .
service from downward T he list o f pensioners is said .
to be 1 500 O f sinecures there is a lar e number exceeding

.
,
in amount nearly a million and a hal f 0 dollars T he family .
o f the Duke o f Wellington has received it is sai d or , ,

n early h al f a million o f dollars fo r s er vi ces in a single year ,
.
T hese immense e x penses are met by ta x es upon every lu x ury ,

and upon almost every article o f com fort and convenience ,
and even necessity throughout the kingdom ,
.
We sh al l conclude our account o f E n land with a brie f d

,
notice o f the inh abitants o f W A L E S which lies on th e western ,
side o f the island T he Welsh are descendants o f the ancient
.
Britons who though they have long lived under the

, ,
lish government still remai n an unmi x ed race and adhere

, ,
to the customs o f their fore fathers T heir language is a di .
a l e c t o f the C eltic but in the towns the E nglish is generally ,

spoken Wales was a seat o f learning at a very early p e
.
r i o d and furnished the A nglo S axons with an alphabet

,
In -
.
more recent times it has produced some eminent literary ,

ch aracters .
In their p er s ons the Welsh are generally short and stout ,

limbed T he women fo r the most part have p retty round
.
, ,
faces clear comple xions with dark expressive eyes and good
, , ,
teeth T he higher class dress like the E n glish ; but in the

.
more humble ranks the national costume is preserved wh i ch

.
, , ,
for b oth men and w omen is compos e d o f hom e made woolle n .

-
230 U NIV E R S A L T R A VELLER .
S C O TL A N D .
2 . SC OTL A ND .
S cotland occu pies the northern portion o f the island o f Gre at

Britain and was formerly an independe n t kingdom betwee n
, ,
which and E ngland many sanguinary wars were waged A n d .
t hough they are now un ited under one constitut ion S cotland ,
stil l retains her peculiar forms o f ecclesiastical and common
law and her P resbyterian form o f church government Her
, .
population somewhat exceeds two millions .
o tek, a s a p eop l e, ar e m o r e s p a r e th a n th e E n g li s h , an d
generally have hig cheek bones T heir countenances have
h .
a staid har d y and somewhat weather beaten appearance In

, ,
-
.
national character they hold a high rank T hey are a grave

, .
,
sober sincere and religious people and attached to their s u~
, , ,
p e r i o r s whether that superiority is derived from rank wealth

, , ,
o ffi cial digni ty talents or vir tue Out o f their own country
, ,
.
they are peculiarly noted fo r their industry and enterprise and ,

fe w o f them return till they have earned a competency to sup
,
port them i n their old age Like the E nglish they are distin .
,
u i s h e d by their courage by their love o f domestic li fe and

gy a contempt fo r every thing like show or theatrical e ffect
, ,
.
,
By their enemies the S cotch have been consi d ered as displa y

,
ing a pliancy or servility o f character ; but i f this remark is

the result o f observation and not o f m alignity i t must be drawn ,
from the study o f that part o f the population whic h have but
recently esca p ed from the influence o f feudal h abits or must ,
h ave been w itnessed i n those districts where the power or the ,
kindness o f the C hie ftain still calls forth the humility or the a f
fe c t i o n o f his V a ssals In the lowlands o f S cotlan d the people
.
,
have the sa m e independence o f ch aracter as the E nglish and ,
we should be disposed to say that the S cottish peasantry even ,
surpass their neighbors in that respect in so fa r as they sur ,
pass them ln education and general knowledge which are the ,
sure found ation and the best tests o f in d e p e n d e n c e o f charac

,
ter. T here is nothing m ore character i stic o f the S cottish

pe a santry th an their respect fo r the S ab b ath In place o f .
spending the S abbath day in i dleness and gayety the S cottis h ,
peasant accompanies his family to the House o f Prayer ; and

however small m ay be his means he appears in clean and de ,
cent attire When the service is over he instructs his children

.
,
in the duti es o f religi o n read s with them the holy scriptures

, ,
and perhaps accompanies them when these duties are dis ,
ch arged to some ro mantic a n d sequestered scenes to con

, .
te m plate the beauties o f the m a ter i al w o r ld T his obser v ance .
o f th e S abbath is no doubt the principal cause o f the s u perior

‘
in formation a n d the sober and moral habits o f the people

,
.
In addition to the foregoing the followi ng remarks upon the ,

co n dition and manners o f the S cotch from the travels o f P ro ,
IVER S AL T RAVELL E R
U N 23 1 .
HO U S E S .
fo ssor S illiman will e found interesting ,

T he lower clas s .
o f people in S cotland so fa r as I have seen them appear less , ,
c om fortable than in E ngland E ven now in winter some o f .

, ,
the female servants in E dinburgh walk about the streets over ,
ice cold p a t e m e nts or through mud and snow w i th o u t s h o es

-
, ,
or s t o cki n gs ; in Londo n I never saw girls in service so desti ,
tute But it is n o t surprising that in E dinburgh they should

.
not be able to obtain necessary clothing fo r their wages are ,
only three guineas a year and in some o f the lodging houses , ,
they are obl iged to give an account o f all the money W t h i s

given them b y the lodgers tha t it may be deducted from the i r
,
wages We have no examples o f suc h poverty in A merica ;

.
even a southern negro is better provided fo r ; still these poor ,
girls can read and write and cast accounts and they are the , ,
most civil and attentive o f servants .
T he steps doors and common pass ages o f the houses i n

, ,
E dinbur g h excepting the houses o f the gentry are e x tremely

, ,
dirty T his however arises principally from the fact that th e

.
, ,
most o f t h e houses are occupied by a number o f fam ilies at
once they live i n di ff erent stories or as they call th e m fl ets , , , ,
o f the same house and go out and come i n through a common
,
door which i s always open ; it thus happens very frequently

,
that families live in the third or fourth story ; the kitchen and
all their apartments are at this height and o f course there , , ,
is a great deal o f labor in carrying articles up and down s o
many stairs ; the stairs as well as the houses themselves are , ,
o f stone Families that live under the same roo f; and use
.
constantly the same passage ha ve o ften no connexio n with , , ,

each other .
T he height o f the houses in E dinburgh is proverbial and ,

the use o f so many stories is very evident On this subj ect .
there is some exaggeration It is tru e that some house s rise .
to the astonishing height o f fourteen stories and I have r e ,
p e a t e dly seen the m o f nine and ten ; but these very lo ft y

houses are always (as far a s I have seen them ) erected on the
steep declivities o f hills where on one side that ne ar the sum , ,
mit o f the hill there will not be more than three or four stories
, ,
while on the other there may be more than twice that number
, .
T he avera e height through the whole town is probably n o t ,
more than v e or six stories ; fo r in the new tow n and in the , ,

m ost genteel parts o f the old the houses are not generally ,
more than three or four stories high .
“T here is a custom in S cotland which would appear some

wh at singular to A merican ladies Immediately a fter th e cloth .
is removed rum gin whiskey or other ardent spirits a r e

, , , , ,
placed upon the table and the lady who presides o ffers each ,
guest a dram ; th e thing is not veiled under any polite peri
p h r a s i s fo r the question is put in palpable terms Will you
, ,
drink a dram ? T he answer is commonly in the a ffi rmative
and a glass o f r a w spirits is poured out without water and
,
, ,
pas s ed from one to another each individual drinking succe s ,
2 32 U NIV E R S A L TR A VELLER .
SC O TL AN D .
s iv ely from
the same glass which is replenished as fast as it ,
is emptied T his practice is general and nearly as common
.
,
among the ladies as gentlemen but the dram is always drunk ,
with moderation and seems to be merely an interlude be fore
, ,
the re gul ar round o f wine d rink ing commences Healths are -
.
drunk with wine during dinner as with us and this is com , ,

mon in E ngland also B oth dinners and s u ppers wh e n they
.
,
are meant to be hospitable are here concluded by the drinking ,
o f hot toddy A pitcher o f hot water is placed upon the table
.
and each guest is furnished with a large foot glass hold ing -
,
nearly a pint in which he m ixes his water spirits and sugar
, , , ,
in such pr e portions as he pleases ; whiskey is pre ferred on
these occasions but that o f the Highlands which is the best
, , ,
is s o expensive in consequence o f the excise that it is not
*
, ,
univers ally used .
“E ach foot glass has a small wooden l adle which is em

-
,
ployed to dip the hot toddy out into wine glasses from wh ich -
,
it is drunk .
T he ladies are not supp lied with foot glasses but the gen -
,
tle m e n occasionally lade out some o f their own hot toddy into
the wine glasses o f the ladies who thus partake o f this bever
-
,
age although w ith much moderation
,
.
It might perhaps be in ferred th at such h abits must lead to ,

intemperance ; it cannot be doubted that they have a bad ten
deney and although I h ave never seen a single instance o f
,
excess in this way it may well be presumed that the fumes o f
,
such a hot inebriating mixture must occasionally turn the
brains o f parties not restrained by considerations o f decorum
or o f religion .
“A nd indeed among the most sober people it is easy to

, ,
perceive some exhilaration produced by the hot toddy as ,
they sit and sip from hour to hour ; and it sometimes happens
that a circle be fore mute becomes suddenly garrulous and
, ,
brilliant .
“T he manners o f the S cotch are full o f a ff ection and cor

d ia l ity ; o n parting a ft er their little social interviews they all
, ,
shake hands with each other and with the strangers who may ,
b e present ; the ladies do it as well as the gentlemen nor is it ,
a mere formality but the frank and warm e x pression o f gen

,
e r o u s feeling ; one hearty S cotch g o od n i gh t is worth a thou -
sand bows o f ceremony .
“T he food which is seen at genteel S cotch tables is very

similar to that used in E ngland and with us but they still r e , ,
tain s ome o f their own national
f
T h e d r es s is
o the same as that
th e L o f the
ow l a n d er s
E n g
In the Highlands the ancient costume has fallen greatly,
into disuse and a Highland chie f in the full dress o f his coun
, ,
try is only seen on extraordinary occasions It is howeve r

,
.
, ,
4. S illim an
’
s Journ a l .
2 34 U N IVE R S A L T R A VEL L E R .
S C O TL AN D .
of E dinburgh called the New T own contains numerous edi

, ,
fi c e s which are highly S plendid and magnificent T he habita .
tions o f the Highlanders are generally bu ilt in glens or v a l ,

-s
leys by the side o f a lake or near a r iver or stream with a

, , ,
little arable land adj oining T he walls are o f tur f or stones .
,
r aised about six feet high on the top o f which is a roo f con , ,
structed with the branches o f trees and covered with tur f on , ,
w hich the grass continues to row so that a traveller at a
little distance distinguishes withd ifii c ulty a hut from a green
, ,
, , ,
hillock T he interior is divided into t hree compartments v iz

.
, .
the bu tt or kitchen the b en n or inner room and the bya or

, , , ,
r,
cattle stall T he partition between these apartments is fr e
.
quently no more than an old blanke t or piece o f sail cloth

.
, .
In th e kitchen and so m etimes in the inner room are cupboard

, ,
beds fo r the family : but mo r e frequently when the fire on the
ground is extingu ished they lay their bed o f heath a n d blank
ets on the spot on account o f the earth being dry
, .
T he follo w ing interesting account o f an adven ture in the

Highlands is given by the author o f the P ractical T ourist
,
“Feeling a curiosity to see the interior o f some o f the poor
.
h ovels built o f loose stones and covered with thatch I enter e d

, ,
O n e o f t h e m fo r the purpose and asked fo r a dra u ght o f water ,
.
T he thin blue peat smoke was issuing from the front door as
I approached it and fr o every crevice o f the roo f I m
,
.
o
mediately on e n tering I f an d mysel f at the heels o f a cow , ,

the front door o f the hovel opening into her apartment which ,
served at the same tim e fo r the principal entrance to the only
furnished room o f the ho use T his room seemed to be at o n c e .
the parlor kitchen and bed room A n old lady was busily
, ,
-
.
employed o ver a peat fire in p r e p ar in some wool fo r comb

ing fo r m aking worsted fo r plaids T e smoke ascended in
,
.
eddies to the roo f a n d partially esca p ed through a hole in the

,
thatch ; fo r in order to prevent the d rops o f rain falling per

p e n d i c ul a r ly and extinguishing
,
th e fire the h ole in the thatch ,
is n o t made directly above the hearth T he old lady s u spend .
ed her emp loyment as I entered and raising hersel f; viewed ,

rn e attent ively to ascertain my wishes ,
T he color o f h e r .
countenance was sallow or rather o f a sa ffron shade from , ,

the e ff ect o f the constant smoke or peat reek as it is here , ,
called Her sm all gray eyes appeared sunk in their sockets

.
,
as i f they had retreated there from the smoke that must per
p e t u a lly o ff end them S h e was truly hospitable o f
.f ering me ,
some buttermilk instead o f water T he sharp acid o f the li . .
b
qu or together with th e smoke o f the room cause d tears to

, ,
start from my eyes while the mug was at my lips ,
.
“Having bestowed a sm all gratuit a n d th a n ke d her fo r her

y
hospitality I took a hasty lance at the furniture o f her apart
,
ment A sort o f bunk bui t o f boards served fo r a b e a d s te a d
.
, , ,
in one corner and a fe w earthen dishes tubs , and p ots with
, , ,
a rudely made case o f drawers seemed to constitute a ll the ,
w orldly gear belonging to the hovel Th e floor w a s o f earth .

,
U N IVER S AL TR A V E LLER . 235
L AN G U A G E S .
or mud hardened by frequent tread T he inmate however

,
.
, ,
appeared cheer ful and quite contented with her humble cot .
T he opposite door o f the room led into the sheep fold where ’
the flock is kept in winter Most o f the hovels we p assed are .
built upon the s ame plan h aving a stable at one end and the , ,
dwelling room opening into it Healthy little ch i ldren a p .

a
p e a r e d seated at the doors eating their bannocks or p ar r i c h

o
, ,
made o f oatmeal T he former sometimes resembles what is
.
called in New E ngland an Indian j ourney cake or Johnny ,
cake and the latter hasty p uddin g or mush Oats l n truth

.
,
.
, , ,
seem to form the princip al constituent o f the

Th e i n h a b it a n ts of S co t l a n d s p ea k th r ee d ie r en t la n g u a g es ,
the E nglish the cotch and the Gaelic The E nglish lan
,
S ,
.
g u a e is spoken by all Well ed u cated persons in every part o f

the in gd o m It is used in all written deeds and in all works
.
,
in prose T he S cotch language which is used by all the low~

.
,
e r class in the Lowlands and even by m any old persons o f the ,
higher ranks is still employed in their national poetry T he

,
.
Ga el ic langua e is spoken in every part o f the Highland s ; but

almost all the igh la n d er s are acquainted with E nglish whic h ,
is taught in all their schools .
T he S cotch lan guage or that which is s p oken in the Low

,
lands o f S cotland has generally been regarded as a corrupt

,
dialect o f the En glish or o f the A nglo S axon ; and those who
,
-
ha ve maintained this opi n ion have not scrupled to fix up on ,
some era at which it was imported from the S outh Their .
eminent antiquarian Dr Jamieson however wh o at first e u

,
.
, ,
te r t a i n e d this opinion was led to investigate the subj ect with

,
much attention and the resul t o f his investigation was that the
, ,
language o f the Lowlands o f S cotland is a s much a separate
language as the E nglish ; and th at its basis like tha t o f t h e ,
E nglish is T eutonic with a strong mixture o f Gaelic and
, ,
F rench .
V arious causes h ave combined to sin k the estim ation o f th e

S cottish tongu e It is no longer the language o f the noble
.
,
the opulent and fashionable n o r are the tra n sactions o f p u b
, ,
lie and private bus i ness co nducted in it It is but seldom .
partially employed in conversation by the more enlightened

and accom p lished I t is heard chiefly fro m the mouths o f th e
.
l o w illiterate and unpolished

, ,
It abounds however in term s .
, ,
and phrases connected with domestic and social l i fe w ith ,
rural scenery sentiments and occupations ; and hence is pe o u
, ,
li a r ly fitted fo r pastora l poetry and the li ghter odes It , .
surpasses in humorous repre s entations and is fa r from being ,
unsu ited to the plaintive and tender Th e poems and espe .

,
c ia lly the songs o f B urns illustrate and confirm these o b s er,
v a t io n s In the sublimer kinds o f poetry it is deficient in maj est
y
.
,
a n d compass .
Pr ac tic al To uris t .
236 U N IV E R S AL TR AV E L L E R .
S C O TL AN D .
T he G aelic langu a ge is still the universal l angu age o f the

Highlands It is a dialect o f the C eltic dialects o f which are
.
,
s o spoken in Ireland Wales and the S panish province o f
g1scay .
, ,
Of S we cannot adequately speak in this

co tti s h li t er a tu r e,
place In general however we m ay remark that there is
.
, , ,
s carcely a department in the wide field o f learnin and research
g ,
in which the S cotch have not been highly disti n n is h e d In .
m athematical and physical science the n ames 0 James and ,

D avid G regory o f Maclaurin S impson Black Hutton Robin , , , , ,
son Play fair and Ivory will be long remem b ered In the
, , , .
practical a r ts o f civil en gineering the labors o f Watts Mur , ,

d o c k R e n n ie and T el ford will bear testimony to the remotest
,
.
, ,
times o f their pre eminent talents In history F o r d un E u
,
-
.
, ,
chanan Robertson and S mollett h ave shone forth with the
, , ,
highest lustre A mo ng their ethical writers m ay be enumera.
ted Reid S mith B eattie Oswald C ampbell Lord K ames Lord

, , , , , ,
M o nb o d d o and S tewart ; among novel i sts S mollett Moore
, , , ,
Mackenzie and S ir Walter S cott ; among th eir anatomists
,
and physicians the Gregories and the Monroes ; a m o rfg cri ,
tics B lair and K ames ; am o ng antiquaries Lord Hailes G eddes

, , , ,
Pinkerton G eo C halmers and Dr Ja m ieson ; among divine s
, .
,
.
,
Macknight B lair Loga n M o n c r e ifl, and A lison ; among paint
, , ,
ers R u nciman J a mieson Raeb u r n T homson and Wilkie ;
, , , , ,
and among poets L er m o n t Barbour Douglas Ramsay , , , , ,
T hom p son Mallet A rmstrong A rbuthnot Mickle S mollett
, , , , , ,
Beattie Ferguson Burns Mackenzie Baillie S cott and
, , , , , ,
Byron *
.
S c elebr a ted f r i ts m us i c ; but the style which pre

co t l a n d is o
vails in the north or Highland country i s entirely di ff erent , ,

from that which is most relished in the southern provinces .
The so ngs o f the latter Dr Beattie rem arks are all sweetly “ .
, ,
and power f ully expressive o f love and tenderness and other ,

emotions s uited to the tranquillity o f pastoral li fe ” On the .
contrary the m u sical compositions o f the Hi ghlands ex hibit “

,
the wildest irregularity the e x pression is warlike and mel a n
c h o ly and approaches even to the terrible O f musical ln
,
” .
s tr u m e n ts the Highland pipe is peculiar to S cotland and wi ll

, ,
excite a S cotchman in the same way that the sound o f the

trumpet gives animation to the war horse or a fandango will -
,
ex cite a S paniard In the following beauti ful language a .
“
S cotch w r iter i speaks o f the bagpipe In halls o f j o y and in
‘
.
,
scenes o f mo u rning it h as prevaile d ; it has animated her war ,
riors in battle and welcomed them back a fter their toils to the
, ,
h omes o f their love and th e hills o f their nativity Its strains .
were the first sounded on the ears o f in fancy a n d they are th e ,
E dinb urgh E n cy c o p edia

N ew l .
t M acD o n ald, in h i s A n ci en t M ar ti al Musxc o f C aledo mo

,
.
,
A Highla nd B agp ip er . P 2 37
. .
NIVER S A L TR A VE LL E R U 237 .
M U S IC .
l a t to be forgotten in the wa n derings o f age E ven Highl and

s .
ers will allow that it is not the gentlest o f instruments ; b u t when

fa r from their m ountain homes what sounds h owever melodi , ,
ous co uld thr ill round their heart like one burst o f their own
,
wild native pipe ? T he feelings which other instrumen ts awa

ken are general and undefined because they talk alike to ,
Frenchmen S paniards Germans and Highlanders fo r they
, , , ,
are com m on to all ; but the bagpipe is sacred to S cotland and ,
speaks a language which S cotsmen only feel It talks to them .
o f home an d all the past and brings be fore them on the burn , ,
ing shores o f India the wild hills and o ft frequented streams o f ,
C aledonia the friends that are thinking o f them and the sweet
, ,
h earts and wives that are w e e p in ifo r them there ! A nd need i t

be told here to how many fields 0g ,
danger and victory its pro u d
strains h ave led ? T here is not a battle th at is honorable to
Br itain in which its war blast has not sounded When every
,
-
.
other instrument his been hus hed by the con fusion and carna e
o f the scene it h as been borne into the thick o f battle and
,
ar , ,
in the advance its bleeding but devoted bearer sinking on th e
, ,
eart h has sounded at once encouragement to his country men
,
”
and his own coronach .
N u m er o us a n e d o t es are rel ated o f the e ffects o f this instru

c o
ment on the hardy sons o f C ale d onia “ In the war in In di a ” .
a piper i n Lord M c L e o d s regiment seeing the British army ’

,
giving way be fore superior numbers played in his best style ,

the well known Coga dh n a S ith which filled the Highlanders ,
with such s p irit that immediately rallying they cut through , , ,

their enemies For this for t unate circumstance S ir E yre
.
,
C oote filled with admiration and appreciating the value o f

, ,
such music presented the regiment with fi fty pound s to buy a
, ,
stand o f pipes A t the battle o f Quebec in 1 7 60 the troops
.
, ,
were retreating in disorder and the general complained to a ,
field o fficer in Fraser s regiment o f the bad conduct o f his ’
,
corps : S ir said the o fficer with a degree o f warmth you

‘ ’
,
‘
,
did very wrong in forbidding the pipers to play ; nothing i n
spirits the Highlanders so much ; even now they w ould be o f
some use ‘
Let them blow in God s name then said the
.
’
,
’
, ,
’
general ; and the order being given the pipers with alacri ty ,
sounded the G r u i n n ea ch a dh on which the Gael formed in the ,
re ar and bravely returned to the charge George C lark now
, .
,
piper to the H ighland S ociety o f London was pi p e r to the 7 1 s t ,
regiment at the battle o f V im ie r a where h e was wounded in ,
the leg by a musket ball as he bo ldly ad vanced Finding him .
sel f disabled he sat down on the ground and putting his pipes
, ,
in order called out Weel lads I am sorry I can ga na far
, , , ,
ther w i you bit deel h a my saul i f ye sall want music ; and
,
’
struck up a favorite warlike a ir w ith the utmost unconcern ,

'
fo r any thing but the unspeaka b le delight o f sending his com

,
rades
“
to battle with the animatin g sound o f the p i ob r a ch d .
A t all rural occupations in the Hi ghlands it has been o h

s erved that labor is accompanied by S i nging Where musi c .
2 38 U NIVER S AL TRAVELL E R .
IR E L AN D .
can be had it is p re ferred A piper is o ften regularly en gage d

,
.
in harvest to animate the reapers and he generally keep s b e ,

hind the slowest
Th e S co t ch w er e f espe
or m er ly ex c eed in g l y
-
su
p er s ti ti o us ,
the Highlanders ; but as they become more enl ightened
c i a lly ,
their superstitious tendencies are diminished M arriage is .
usually per formed by the clergy ; justices are allowed to per

form the ceremony and even a declaration by the part ies b e ,
fore c o m p e t e n t w it n e s s e s that they take each other fo r bet ,

”
ter fo r worse is deemed a valid m arriage In the south o f .
, ,
S cotland is a small village known by the n ame o f G tn a re
G e en which fo r more than a hundred years has been the r e

r ,
sort o f fugitive lovers whom their parents and friends forbid , ,

but who were determined to be no longer twain but one “
,
”
flesh A t G retna Green there formerly lived an old black
.
,
smith who was al w ays ready to undertake the w eld ing p r oce s
,
s .
It is said that between si x ty a n d seventy such hymeneal j obs

are yearly executed at this n oted spot although the master o f ,
the forge o f Vulc an h as gi ven place to the minister o f religion . .
Funerals a mong the S cotch are conducted much a fter the

m anner o f similar solemn services in New E ngland In the .
Highlands the Gaelic manner is sometimes observed with

.
,
feasting and festivity accom p anied with the cor o n a ch or fune
, ,
ral dirge and the shrieking o f women Long processions are
,
.
common as in most parts o f S cotland all the relatives o f the

, ,
deceased being expected to attend T he funeral ceremo n y is .
per formed in silence an d the corpse is carried to the grave ,

and interred withou t a word being spo ken .
3 . IR E L A ND .
Be fore passing to the C ontinent Ireland wi ll claim our a i~ ,

tention B idding adieu there fore to S cotland let us direct
.
, , ,
our course thith er We m ight indeed adopt the usual co u rse
.
,
and taking a steamboat at Glasgow proceed to B el fast to u c n , ,
ing at Greenock about twenty fi v e miles below the latter place
,
-
.
But this would be at a charge o f five dollars fo r the passage ,

besides other charges fo r board &c Were it pleasant weather ,
.
,
we might make the passage on deck at about one d ollar But .
pre ferring as I doubt not you will an aerial passage subject

, , ,
to no charge and devoid o f the dangers o f an Irish sea we
, ,
will launch forth and here anon we find ourselves in the
, , ,
land o f S wa t e I r ela n d .
As
our principal business is with the populati on o f the coun
try I would in form y o u that a t the last census which wa s
. ,
L ogan
’
s S co t tis h G ae l .
240 U NIV E R S A L T RAVELLER .
IR E L A N D .
an E nglishman or an A merican will usually appea r grave .
Although the day was e x cessively warm I noticed a tall r o ,

«
bust man with a florid face wrapped up care fully in a great

,
,
c oat Whilst I stood observi n g the singularity o f his appear
.
ance clothed in so heavy a garm ent on a warm day a slight

, ,
b reeze blew aside the sk irt unveiling his brawny limbs in v est
,
ed only in a sh irt the color o f which seemed to indicate th at

,
it had never been parted from the wearer during a temporary
immersion in a wash tub A lad also passed me whose pan
-
.
,
t a lo o n s were so much rent as to hang loosely suspended fro m
his wais t in front like a sort o f apron or curtain his bare
, , ,
knees protruding at every step from beneath the floating screen .
One might here almost cred i t the assertion o f an Irish travel

ler wh o states that there are very many ragged people that
,
sleep in their clothes because i f they pulled o ff their loosely

,
stitched r a gs they would never succeed in getting them on
,
again T hey ha v e a s ufficient supply o f potatoes and vege

.
,
tate in rags and wretchedness ” .
“
It is stated by Mr Young that in E ngland h alf th e li fe and
.
, ,
the vigor o f yout h o f a m a n and woman are passed be fore ,
they can acc u m ul a te a small sum fo r purchasing furn iture a n d
build ing a cott a ge ; and w hen they have got them so burden ,
some are the poor to a parish that it is twenty to one i f they ,
e t permiss i on to erect their cottage But in Ire l and the cabin

g .
,
i s not an obj ect o f a m oment s consideration being a hovel
’
,
erected w ith two day s labor ; and hence the wan t o f a habi
’
t a t io n is no bar to early marriages .
T he inhabitants o f some o f the provinces live throughout

the year almost entirely on potatoes ; oat meal being cons i der -
ed as a lu x ury rather than a regular article o f diet T he food .
o f the inh abitants even in times o f plenty is the poorest kind

, ,
which human beings can subsist upon .
Notwithstanding the general poverty which prevails the ,

h o sp i t li t y o f the Irish when their circumstances are not too
a ,
wretche d to display it is remarkably great T he neighbor or
’
, .
the stranger observes T he S tranger in Ireland finds every ”

, ,
man s door open and to walk in without ceremony at meal
’
,
time and to partake o f his bowl o f potatoes is a lways sure to
, ,
give pleasure to every one o f the ho use and the p ig is turned ,
out to make room fo r the gentleman I f the visiter can relate .
a lively tale or play upon a ny instrument all the family are

, ,
in smiles and the young will begin a merry dance whils t the
, ,
old will smoke a fter one another out o f the same pipe and e u ,
t er t a in each other with stories A gentleman o f an erratic .
turn was pointed out to me who with his flute in his hand , , ,
a clean pair o f stockings and a shirt in his pocket wandered
, ,
through the country every summer ; wherever he stopped the

face o f a stranger made him welcome and the sight o f his i n ,
s tr ument doubly so the best seat i f they had any the best
-
, ,
p otatoes and new milk were allotted fo r his dinner ; and clean
,
s traw and s ometimes a pair o f sheets formed h is bed ; wh i ch
, , ,
U N IVE R S AL T RA V EL L ER . 24 1
I N S TR U CTI O N OF T HE C O MM O N P E OP LE .
a lthough frequently not a bed o f roses was always rendered ,

welcome by fa tigue and the peculiar bias o f h i s m i nd ,
.
Curran in one o f his celebrated speeches thus“ beauti fully

0
,
described the native hospitality o f his country ; T he hosp i ~ ,
tality o f other countries is i matter o f necess i ty or c o n v e n

tion ; in savage nations o f { he first in polished o f the latter ;
,
,
bu t the hospitality o f an Irish m an is not the runn i ng account
of os t ed and l eg e ed courtesies as in other
r countr i es ; i t
p ,
spri ngs like other qualities his faults his V i rtues d i rectly
, , , ,
from the heart T he heart o f an Irishman is by na ture bold

.
,
and he confides ; it is tender and he l oves ; ”it is generous , ,

and he gives ; it is social and he is hospitable ,
.
T heir n a ti ve u r ba n i ty to each other is very p le a s in I have

frequently seen two b e e r s take o ff their h ats and s a ute each
other with great civi lity T he e x pressions o f these fellows .
upon meeting one another are full o f cordiality One o f ,

.
them in Dublin met a c a m r o gu e in plain E nglish a boy a fter , ,

his own heart who in the sincerity o f his soul exc l aimed
, , , ,
“Paddy mysel f s glad to see you fo r in truth I wish you
’
well .
” “
,
B y my s houl I knows it well ” “
s aid the other but
,
, , ,
o u have but the hal f o f it that is the pleasure is divided
yf you ask a common fellow in the streets o f Dubli n whic h is
.
,
the way to a place he will take o ff his hat and i f he does not
, ,
know it he will take care not to tell you so (fo r nothing is
, ,
more pain ful to an Irishman than to be tho u ght ignorant he
will either direct you by an ap p eal to his imagination which ,
is eve r ready or he will say “I shall find it out fo r your honor
, ,
immediately and away he flies into some shop fo r in form a

tion wh ich he is happy to be the bearer o f without any hope
, ,
o f reward .
T he i t r u cti on of th e com m on p e p l e is in the lowest state o f

ns o
degradation In the summer a wretched unch aractered itin

.
,
e r a n t derives a sc anty a n d precarious existence by wander
ing from parish to parish and opening a school in some ditch ,
covered with heath and furze to wh ich the inhabitants send ,
their children to be instructed by the miserable breadless na

ing who is nearly as ignorant as themselves ; and in the
,
winter these pedagogue pedlers go from door to door o ffer

,
ing their services and pick up just su fficient to prevent them

,
selves from perishing by famine What proportion o f morals .
and learning can fl o w from such a source into the mind o f the
ragged young pupil can easily be imagined but cannot be r e ,
fi e c t e d on without serious concern A gentleman o f undoubt .
ed veracity stated not long since be fore the Dublin associa

, , ,
tion fo r d istributing B ibles a n d T e s t a m e n t s amongst the poor '
,
that whole parishes were without a Bible .
T h e p ea s a n tr y c attached to their ancient

a r e u n omm o n l
y
melod i es some o f which are e x quisitely beauti ful In some
.
, .
p arts o f Ireland the harp is yet in use

; but,the Irish bagpipe
i s the favori te instrument T h e stock o f national music h a s .
21
242 U NIVER S AL T RA V ELLE R .
IR E L AN D .
n o t b ee nmuch increased o f late years T he Irish o f all classes .
are fond o f music Dancing also is a favorite and nat ional

.
, ,
amusement S carcely ever is there an assemblage o f com
.
mon people without a dance E ven on the S abbath day a fter .

,
the hours o f devotion the spirit o f gayety bursts forth amon g
,
the peasantry the bagpipe is he ard and every foot is in mo
, ,
tion In th e nei hborhood o f some alehouse the peasantry
gect purchase a huge cake which is paid fo r
.
,
o f the vicinity col , ,
by subscription and which being placed upon a d is ta fi they
, ,
contend fo r it as a prize either in a dance or some athletic ,
exercis e T h e pi p er who is considered an essential person
.
,
a ge o n such occasion s is s e ated on th e ground with a hole , ,
dug be fore him to receive such presents as m ay b e o ffered fo r
“ ”
his services T he Irish fair also is frequently an occasion
.
o f tumult u ous j oy Originally these fairs were instituted fo r

.
,
the meeting o f traders and farmers fo r the transaction o f b u n
s in e s s but at present the y serve mostly as an occasion fo r

,
holyday recreations .
“Numerous lar e booths o f boards are erected in variou s

parts o f the open elds where the m ultitudes are assembled ,
.
T heatrical per formances shows and all sorts o f amusements , , ,

are exhibited at the cheapest rates and coarse toys and ar ti , ,
cles o f little value are o ffered fo r sale upon benches In the
,
.
a fternoon the pre vailing amusement amongst the rabble is o f

, , ,
a p ugilistic kind hal f a dozen or more participating at once
, , ,
in th i s sort o f diversion dealing out blows with their big fists , ,
as if they were tr ifle s light as air
‘
.
’
As migh t b e expected from their i gn or ance the Irish are r e ,

m a r ka b ly s u p er s ti t i o u s In the last century according to the
.
,
”
author o f the S tranger in Ireland even distinguished fami ,
lies had a banshee ; a fairy in the shape o f a little fright ful old
woman who used to warble a melanch oly ditty under the
,
windows o f great houses to warn the family that some o f the m ,
were about to die In several parts o f Ireland are elf s ton es ;
.
-
these are triangular flin ts with which the p easantry suppose ,

the fairies when angry with them destroy their cows When
, ,
.
these animals die unexpectedly o f any n atural disease they ,

say they are elf s h ot T he rustics require a great deal o f e n
-
.
c o u r a ge m e n t be fore they c an be brought to level an ant hill

-
.
from the belie f that it is a fairy mount .
F ew th i n gs a r e m or e ch a r a ct er i s t i c of th e I r i s h th an a strange
con fusion o f speech , or a sort o f intermixture o f words , which
h as received the name o f a bu ll Hence a writer somewhere .
“
remarks , th at an Irishman and a bull form a twin thought in
an E nglishman s mind T he Irish however bear a greater
’
.
”
, ,
share o f honor i n this respect than they deserve T he lower .
classes in all other countries fall into similar humorous mis

takes It may happen that the lower Irishmen make more
.
,
on account o f the uncommon quickness o f their thoughts and ,

U NIV E R S A L T RAVELLER .
IR E L AN D .
j u s tl be proud o f suc h men as U sher Goldsmith S heridan , , .
S wi S tone and Moore ; and o f B urke C as tl erea h Gratt an

Curran Plunket Ponsonby C anning and O C o n n ei as orator s
, , , ,
’
, , , ,
and statesmen ; and whate ver opinion individuals m ay enter
tain r e gar din the direction in which h e exerts his talents o f ,
the Duke o f ellington W hose military glory is however so , , ,
tr anscendent as to eclipse the renown to which he m ay lay
,
claim as a statesman a ll these stand deservedly high in pub -
li c opinion .
Ireland then should be ranked a m o n those nations which

, ,
<Jr
have produced and still ive promise o f p r o d uc i n men d i s

3
,
t in guis h e d in the walks o f ite r a tur e and science an above all , ,
in politics It is there fore only just to conclude that the vices
.
, , ,
a n d imper fections o f her s ons arise from an absence o f or an
;
imper fect ed ucation rather than fro m any inherent or natural
, ,
V i ce .
N eith er th e are in a flou r ishing

us e u l n or f or n a m en ta l a r ts
c ondition in Ireland chiefly from the want o f th at encourage ,
m ent which would be given to the m by a residence o f the rich

,
r 0 p r ie to r s in the co untry T he linen manu facture has long .
een the staple m anu facture o f Ireland Fla x seed was ori .
-
gin a lly brought from Holland b y the E arl o f S tr a fi o r d in the

'
,
reign o f C harles I T he spinners and m anu facturers were .
introduced from France and the Netherlands In 1 8 1 0 .

,
about one hundred thous and acres were cultivated with flax ,
which yielded o f the raw m aterial to the value o f one million
an d a hal f pounds sterling T ill the beginnin g o f the present .
century flax was entirely spun by hand ; it i s still so s pun

, ,
t o some e x tent at the present time ,
Coarse thread only c a n .
b e spun by machinery T he finest thread linens are still spun.
by the Irish women Machinery will produce thread o f th e .
fineness o f three hanks to the pound whereas women when , ,
t h e flax is good will spin it from twelve to twenty b a n ks

,
.
In his late tour to E urope Dr Griscom visited the linen h al l ,

.
at Bel fast “ ” “
Nothing s ays he can exceed the neatness
.
,
a n d beauty with whic h the packages o f linen are folded and ,

arranged in the various rooms o f this ex tensive buildin g .
Great attention is paid to the external decoration o f the pieces ,

such as tying the m up i n h andsome stri n gs or ribands stamp ,
ing them with beauti ful devices and attaching the maker or ,
v ender s name engraved and surrounded with an elegant vig
’
, ,
n ette . T hese ornamental doings I was told are very ex p e n , ,
s i ve but quite indispensable in the goods destined fo r the

,
American m arket U nless they look well and have a beauti ful .
,
g loss ,
they meet with a dull sale ; the quality o f the cloth having
m uch less to do with the demand than the superficial appear ,
a nce In E ngland the merchan ts and consumers have learned

.
,
b etter ; and no such expensive putting up is practised with the

goods sent to the neighboring markets It is a fact which ought .
to b e wel l understood b y the consumers o f line n tha t the gl o ss .

U NIVER S AL T R A VELLER . 24 5
LI N E N .
or glazing is produced by a violent mechanic al friction and

s tamping upon the sur face o f the stu ff wh ile it is firmly stretch ,
ed over a h ard unyielding substance T his is done by wooden .
beams armed with smooth flint stones and fo r no other pur

, ,
pose than to give it a beauti ful appearance It is nevertheless .
injurious to the cloth abrading the sur face and weaken i ng i ts

, ,
text ure It will not be long I hope be fore the corrected taste
.
, ,
o f A merican purchasers wi ll enable the Irish m anu facturers

to dispense with this useless and inj urious process fo r how ,
per fect soever the glazing o f linen m ay be it all disappears i m ,

the first washing and shrinking be fore the goods are made up ‘
,
into
S ix miles from Bel fast at Lisburn is an establishment the
, , ,
most c elebrated in Ireland fo r wea vi ng D am ask T ablecloths
,
.
“One hundred and eighty persons are employed in the various

r o c e s s es o f weaving E ach loom is m anaged by a man and
.
oy . T he former O perates the loom to beat up the cloth and ,
the latter stands by the side o f it to draw the strings to raise the ,
threads that must be skipped by the shuttle to form th e em ,

bossed figures In this as in the shawl weaving in Paisley the
.
, ,
art o f the process consists in arranging the web previously to

commencing the operation o f weaving T he designs to b e .
wrought are sketched in re d and white colors u p on a paper and ,

the artist by re ferring to it is enabled to c alculate where t o
, ,
le a v e th e delicate embossed figures o f the s ame white color

‘
with the groundwork o f the cloth S ome o f the tablecloth s .
are woven 3 } yards in wid th and o f any desirable length ,

.
T he loom upon which the cloths fo r the royal tables were

woven was pointed out T he coats o f arm s o f several n ot
,
.
b le m e n are introduced into the centre o f a fe w o f the fabric s

in the looms fo r which an extra price is paid U pon the nap
,
.
kins prepared fo r military o ffi cers the names o f the battles by ,

which the regiments have been distinguished are embossed in ,
raised work in large characters and the hal f spread wings o f ,

-
the A merican eagle appeared in some instances to be forming

by the swi ft shuttle o f the weaver .
“Most o f the linen i s bleached upon the rass and large

g ,
fields o f several acres are clothed with white linens appearing ,
at a distance to be covered with snow—dri fts In winter chem .
,
ical bleaching is sometimes practised .
“T he poor families scattered over the adj acent country

,
S pin the thread and weave it into cloth at t heir hovels It is
,
.
purchased o f them in the brown state by the capitalists who ,

carry on the bleacheries and the processes fo r finishing th e
cloth fo r m arket
“
.
T he glazing is per form ed in some instances by r ubbing

p i fl int stones upon the sur face o f the linen T he vio .
1eol
n tshed
friction o f the sta mping and polishing process upon the
cloth must be very injurious to the texture although only a
,
’
G ris com s E urop e .
24 6 U NIVER S A L T RAVELLER .
FR AN C E .
false and useless gloss is produced by the operation Much .
pains and expense are bestowed upon the external appearance

o f the goods in pressing folding and preparing them with ,
c overs o f blue and gilded papers fo r the E nglish market an d
,
,
fo r
“I n I r el a n d ” observes the author w hom we have just

, q u o «
“
ted th e r i m t r a nt is noticed with eccentric honors U pon
, g y .
the death o f an Irish m an or woman the straw upon which ,

the deceased reposed is burned be fore the cabin door and as ,
the flames arise the family set up the death howl A t n i h t
, .
cr
,
the body with the face exposed and the rest covered wit a
, ,
white s heet placed upon some boards or an unhinged door

, , ,
supported by stools is w a ked when all the relatives friends , , , ,
an d neighbors o f the deceased assemble together ; candles
-
,
an d candlesticks borrowed from the neighborhood are s t uck
, ,
round the deceased ; according to the circumstances o f the
family the company is regaled with whiskey ale cakes pipes
, , , , ,
and tobacco A sprightly tourist whose name does not a p
.
,
pear in his book observes th at walking out one morning
‘
, , ,
rather early I heard dread ful groans and shrieks in a house
,
.
A tt racted by curiosity I entered and s aw in a room abou t , ,

fi fty women weeping over a poor old man who died a couple ,
o f days be fore Four o f them in particular made more noise

.
, ,
than the rest tore their hair and o ft en embraced the deceased
, ,
.
I rem arked that in about a quarter o f an hour they were tired ,

went into another room and were replaced by four others , ,
who con tinued their shrieks until the others were recovered ;
these a fter swallowing a large glass o f whiskey to enable
, ,
them to make more noise resumed their places and the others , ,
went to re fresh themselves .
’
4 . FR A NC E .
We must leave the British Isles with not a little that is in ,
te r e s tin g to the traveller remaining unvisited and unexplored ,

.
Our rou te now lies acros s the E nglish C hannel from Dover t o
C alais a distance o f twenty—one miles occupying with a pros
, ,
perons passage by steamboat o n ly a fe w hours and by ima ,
g i n a t i o n the easier
,
mode which we have a d opted only a mo ,
ment and we find ourselves in an equally interesting coun
,
—
tr y F r an c e .
T his is a much larger co u ntry th a n England and di ffers ,
from it both in respect to climate and population in m ore par

ti cu l ar s than would be anticipated from th e narrow shee t o f
W ater that sep arates the two countries .
4' P ractica Tour l it

s .
2 48 U N IVER S AL T R A VELLER .
F R AN C E .
of the U nited S tates No system o f general educati on fo r all

.
c lasses has e v er obtained in France nor indeed in any E ur o ,
p ean nation In certain respects however , and among several

.
,
classes education is extensively promoted in esta blishments
, ,
public a nd private o f every degree C olleges and schools o f
,
.
an excellent kind are established fo r instructing youth in every

,
branch o f use ful knowledge T wenty three uni ver s ities and .
-
,
a still l arger number o f literary societ i es adorned France r e
p
v i o us ly to the Revolution S ince that era a National Instit ut e
.
,
has been established with pro fessorships in all branches o f
s cience and a r ts T his institution whi ch was b r ought into
.
,
existence or r eceived a com mon name by u niting the several
, ,
a cadem ie s o f Paris into one is di vided into four academies ,
v iz : th e A ca d em i e F r a n ca i s e c o m posed o f forty members ;
,
th at o f I n s cr i p ti on s a nd B ell es L ettr es also o f forty ; the R o ya l
~ ,
A ca d em y of S ci en c es with si x ty thr ee and th at o f the F in e
,
-
A r ts with forty
,
Napoleon s I mp er i a l U n i ver s i ty has been r e
.
’
t a i n e d with some modifications It includes twenty six acad .

-
e m i es .
T here is no circum st ance in the a p pearance o f the N ation

al Institute more striking and interes ting
” says L ady Morgan
“than the vas t proportion o f young men wh o hav e force ,
,
themselves b y superior talent with i n its walls T he law o f
, ,
.
c onscription and still more the persona l influence which N a

,
p o le o n exe r ted over the higher r a nks by inducing or forcing ,

their sons at an early age into the army m uc h interrupted th e ,
c ourse o f education and checked the progress o f elegant ,
q uir e m en t
‘
But in all ages and u nder all reigns the army

.
, ,
w a s the hereditary pro fession o f the young Frenc h no b ility ;

and the elder sons w ere as invariably g u i don s and colonels ,
a s the ca d ets were prelates and abb é s I can however on my .
, ,
o w n experience attest the ardor with which the you n g men

,
o f the h i ghest rank civil and military return to their s tudie s
, , ,
from wh i ch they have been forcibly estranged I have known .
the young heirs to the most disting uished names in modern

celebrity to the m ost illustrious titles in historic record not
, ,
l ess regular and assiduous attendants on the daily lectures o f

C uvier S t Fond F o u r c r o y Ha iiy than those w h o have to sub
,
.
, , ,
”
s ist by the exerc ise o f the i r acqu ired talents .
E d uc ation is n o w receiving the attention o f the gover n ment

'
and schools upon the system o f mutual instruction have been ,
ex ten s i vely e s ta blis h e d

. In the primary schools reading wri
.
, ,
ting and arithmetic are taught ; and those which consist o f

, ,
lyceums and high sch ools are preparatory to the colleges ,
.
S till with all the attempts that have been made to increase the
,
amount o f educatio n there are nearly four millions o f children ,
i n France destitute o f the means o f instruction It is only in .
P aris that there is any thing like a universal di ffusion o f

k n owledge .
D ur ing th e d a r k a ges , F r a nce p r oduced s om e r esp ecta bl e

F IN E A RT S .
w r i ter s and learning revived there be fore it d id in E ngland .
A mong the Frenc h authors o f those times we find the name s ,
o f A belard and A quinas whose industry and talents were ex ,

h a n sted in laborious searches a fter unmeaning subtleties .
Froissart an in genious chronicler A myot and Marot who com

, ,
posed the first i n prose the othe r in poe try with a swee tness
, , ,
and simplicit unknown be fore and Rabelais renowned fo r h is
y
, ,
b rilliancy indecency and wit,

Following these was a succes
, .
,
sion o f wri ters o f some note particularly Descartes in p h ilo s o , ,
phy It is suppose d h owever by ma ny that learning a n d fi ne

.
, ,
wri ting reached its greatest height in the reign o f Louis X I V .
A mong the accom plished authors o f that period are C orneille , ,

Pascal Moli ere Racine L a Fontaine B o ur d a lo ue Massillon
, , , , , ,
Boss uet B o r le a u Rollin and Fenelon
,
S ince the age o f
, ,
.
Louis many celebrated authors have arisen among whom are

, ,
Voltaire Ro u sseau D A le m b er t D i de r o r t Raynal C ond orcet

, ,
’
, , , ,
a n d C hateaubriand .
T he French have attained to an enviable distinction in s ci

e n ce
. T heir scientific works are numero us especially in z o ,
o lo gy b o t any
,
chemistry and mathematics T he following
, ,
.
,
a mong others are dis tinguished n a me s in t hese sciences v iz
, , .
Bu ffo n C uv ie r Lalande La Place Lace p e de Ju s s ie u Lavoi

, , , , , ,
s ier F o u r c r o y Geo ffrey

,
Many able works o n morals and
,
.
l aw are found in the Frenc h tongue particularly those o f Fen ,

e lon and Montesquieu .
T he or n a m en t l a r ts flourish in France ; and Paris p ar tic u

a
,
l a r ly is filled with paintin g and sculpture T h e mo s t splendi d
, .
collections o f specimens i n both o f these arts is the king s ’

,
m useum in the Louv re It occ upie s fo ur contiguous apart .
ments approached by a grand staircase which is ornamented ,

with twenty two marble col umns o f the Doric order an d the
-
,
whole richly embellished with sculpture T he first saloon c on .
tains a collection o f the earlie st pr oductions o f the French and

Italian s chools which are no o therwis e interesting th an a s
, ,
furni s hing illustration s o f th e progress o f the art T he .
next saloon is al m ost exclusively devoted to the battle piece s

o f La Brun T hese rooms are o f moderate dimensions form
.
,
ing the mere vestibule to t h e temple On passing the latter .
,
the long vista o f the great gallery op ens on the eye o f the
spectator fo r the whole extent o f fourteen hundred fe et and
, ,
c annot fail to st rike him w i t h surprise a nd admiration By .
the natural e ffect o f pers p ective the farther extremity is ,

c ontracted to narrow limits ; a n d throngs o f ladies and gentle
men in full dr sses moving along the varnished floor a n d r e
e
,
d u c e d to a di minutive size in the distance together with col ,
u m n s at su itable in tervals splendid mirrors busts altars ’
, , , ,
antique vases and other embellishments o f the h all present a
, ,
s cene more like enchantment than reality ; T he gallery is
lighted by double rows o f windows which sometimes thro w a ,
d isadvantageous glare across each other and the walls fro m ,
to p to b o ttom are lined wi th p ictures which chal leng e a t ten ,
FR AN C E .
tion distract the mind o f the beholder T he h a ll is p a r

and .
t ia lly and r ather nominally divided by arches erected along

the sides int o nine compartments three o f which are appro ,
p r ia te d to the F r e n c h t h r e e to the Flemish G erman and

‘
, , ,
Dutch and the remaining three to the Italian s c h o ols A mong
, .
the great masters w hose p encils h ave contributed to enrich

the gallery are C o r r e gio Guido R aphael S al vator Rosa T i
, , , , , ,
ti an P a ul Veronese and Rubens T h e m arked di ff erence
, , .
in the Ieadin characteristics and particularly in the coloring ,

o f the s evera schools will strike the most superficial observe r
, .
In anatomical exactness and in boldness o f perspec tive th e , ,

French perhaps surpass a n y other artists ; but in some i n
, ,
‘
stan ces their gaudy and glaring colors appear to be laid on

with a trowel and are wanting in that h armony so ft ness a n d
, , ,
delicacy which characterize the sch ools o f Italy T hey a lso .
gener a lly fail in expression pa rticularly in the milder expres ,

sions o f the human face overste p ping the modesty o f n a ,
”
ture and throw ing someth ing showy or fantastic u pon th e
,
c anva s s as if to chal lenge admiratio n A mong the most ce le
,
.
b r a te d pictures i n the collection are reckoned the Ho ly Trin ,

ity by Raph ael— the E ntombment o f th e S aviour by T itian
, ,
Jupiter and A ntiope by C o r r e gio — the Witc h o f E ndor raising

, ,
the Ghost o f S amuel by S alvator Rosa — the m arriage o f ,
C ana by Paul o f Ve ronese — Z
,
E n e as bearin on the shoul
ders his father A nchises and accompanied y the boy A s ,
c a n iu s by Domenichino
,
a portrait o f C harles I by Vandyeke -
.
D io enes looking fo r an ho nest man by Rubens — S t A mbrose ,

.
by h ilip de C h ampagne — T he Ports o f France at sunr ise , ,

sunset a n d in a tempest by Vernet— the Ju d ent o f S olomon
, , ,
the Institution o f the E u c h arist and the De uge by Poussin , ,
and several landsc apes by C laude L lo r r a in e ,
.
*
T he halls appropriated to sculpture are t wenty in number ,

design ated b classical names — gods oddesses and heroes
from Hercules down to the Duke d g
y ,
-
n go ule m e A lthough ’
.
they have been robbed o f their most interesting and valuable

antiques th ey are still quite numerous T he c atalogues o f the
, .
Royal museu m comprise three volumes containing merely an ,

exposition o f the curiosities to be seen I n this pa rt o f it there .
are about fi fteen hund red articles e m bracing S p ecimens o f ,
every sculptor from Phidias and Praxiteles to the scarcely , ,

less celebrated C anova S everal exquisite relics o f the two .
former are a m ong the antiques ; and two beauti ful groups o f
,
white marble fro m t he ch isel o f the latter ador n the modern ,
h all bearing the name o f the Duke d A ngoulem e Both of
,
’
.
them represent C upi d and Psyche T he proportio n s finish .

, ,
and expression o f one o f them are inimitably fine In the
-
”
other the go d o f love is in the attitude o f rescuing Psyche

w h ile sleeping and read to fall from the brink o f a precipice
,
.
T h e desi gn is not more e auti ful than the execution O f th e .
L et ters from Europ e, by N H C ar ter . .

252 U NIVER S A L T RAVE L L E R .
FR A N C E .
ne ath the horrors o f which gave rise to fright ful tales and
, ,
'
ev entually c aused the tower to be demolished ” .
Of th e E x ch a n g e or P a l a i s d e l a B o u s e the same traveller

, r
,
r em arks it is one o f the most m agnificent structures I h ave
,
ever seen and is perhaps unequalled by any thi n g o f the kind
,
i n E urope Its l ocation however is very bad being in the cen ~
.
,
tre o f the old p art o f the city s u rrounded by a swamp o f b uild ,
in s ; a nd although parti cular pains have been taken to elevate
it m m the low circumscribed area which it occupies n o dis
, ,
t ant glimpse o f it c a n be obtained Were it situated U pon .
some o f the open squares upon the banks o f the S eine the ,
grandeur and classi cal simplicity o f the edifice could not fail
to strike the m ind with admiration It is surro unded with si x ty .
four columns o f the C orinthian order rising to the second story , ,

a n d forming a most splendid colonnade In front is a porch .
,
w ith fourteen additional pillars the ascent to which is by a lo fty ,
fligh t o f sixteen steps T he principal hall is 1 1 6 feet lon g

.
,
and 75 wi d e being su ffi ciently spacio u s to accommodate two
,
thousand persons Th e inside is as rich and beauti ful as the
.
exterior Notwithstanding the boasted architecture o f Italy it

.
,
is taken as a whole the most ch aste and per fect building I have
, ,
e ver examined T he m aterial is substantial the designs clas

.
,
s ic a l and the workmanship finished A flight o f marble steps

’
,
.
,
worthy o f the taste o f B rama n te leads to the second story , .
S plen id corridors open fr om the galleries into the principal

r o om d .
’
It is di fferent in France from what it is in E ngland in regard

to commodious and elegant country h ouses there being co rn -
p a r a ti v e ly fe w o f these in France T he men o f wealth live .
mostly in the towns T he ancient chateaux occasionally a o .
p ear but
,
they are uninviting structures T here are however .
, ,
m any neat and com fortable cottages .
o
T h e F r en ch a r e c elebr a t ed f or th ei r a tt en ti o n f
t o m a tter s O
d r es s a n d t as t e From the highest to

. the lo west individuaj
dress is considered an important concern in France E very .
station in li fe has its peculiar costume Paris sets the fash ions .
o f all E urope and an immense trade in articles o f dress and

new patterns is carried on by tailors dress m akers and m ill ,
-
,
ners Every week h as its new female fashions and every
.
month its new cut fo r the male attire so that it would be im

p ossible to describe any p articular dress as a standard But .
notwithstanding this fi c kle n e s s o f fashion in the metropolis ,

and other large cities o f the kingdom the m ass o f the provin ,
c i als,
especially the peasants remain faith ful to the ancient ,
cos t ume o f an enormously large hat loose breeches and , ,
w ooden shoes fo r the men ; and the j erkin and short petticoat
, .
wi th a high c ap fo r the women ,

.
Coo ker y i n F r a n ce has reached a per fection which is u nri

valled e s e l wh ere . It is s urprisin g to s e e the v ariety and d eli
A R us s ia n S oldier . P . 3 66 .
254 UN IVER S A L T RAVEL L ER .
F AN C R E.
h o urs in fashionable French circles without either eating o r

dr in king ”
The s ame writer
.
“
remarks again concerning th e
F rench m anner o f living : S o cial plea s ures in France p o s ‘
s ess the peculiar merit o f costing little or nothing save time .

,
L adies and gentlemen can never visit fo r the sake o f the lux
u r ie s o f the sideboard and table T heir enj oyments must be .
u r ely mental ; fo r in the course o f the long est evening n o

E ,
in d s o f re freshments are introduced , not even a dish o f co ffee
or a glass o f w ine T his custom is not less conducive to tem
.
perate habits , than to a diminution o f the expenses , and o f

course to an extens ion o f the sphere o f fashionable li fe ” .
T he temper ance o f the French people has been mentioned .
France it is well known is a country abounding in wines

, , .
Many o f th ese are excellent and th e brandies which are made

“
,
in France are esteemed the best in E urope It is seldom .
however that excessive drinking is indulged among the peo~

,
,
ple In the beginnin g o f the last ce n tury France ex ported
.
, ,
Upon an average o f five years from the year 1 72 0 to 1 7 25 a n
, ,
n u a lly to the amount o f more than twenty m illi o n s o f livres ;
,
i n 1 77 8 the exportation amounted to more than twenty four
,
-
millions ; and in 1 7 8 8 to more than thirty—thr ee millions T he .
revolution n e arly annihilated the foreign trade in Fren ch

W ines Cider is made in most o f those provinces the c limate
.
o f which is not favorable to the grape .
T h e F r en ch a s a n a ti on a r e g r ea tly g i ven to a m us em en t an d ,
every variety o f games and pastimes i s found in France T h e .
n atural vivacity o f the people and their love o f amusement

, ,
seem even to be regarded as a n equivalent fo r worldly com
forts ; and it has been supposed that the sha ft s o f adverse
fortune fall innoc u ous at the feet o f a n a tio n whose buoyancy _ ,
o f spirits enables them to float upon a sea o f trouble and to ,
rise with unimpaired vigor when its billows subside T hat
,
.
the French possess these dispositions in a very remarkable

degree no one c an doubt who has seen an d known them
, ,
.
T heir love o f a m usement and willingness to be amused are

, ,
highly characteristic o f the whole nation T here is scarcely .
a town o f any note or even a pop u lous villa ge from Dieppe to ,

M arseilles that has not its S a ll e d Com é dz e its C a fi é s and
'
, , ,
p romenades where variety

,
spreads its never ending charm s -
for the you n g and the old T he S abbath is en e r ally a holy

.
day o f enj oyment and b esides these their etes occur very
, ,
frequently and furnish extraordinary occasions fo r festi vity

,
a n d mirth
*
.
On this sacred day all the theatres and pl ace s o f amusement

,
a r e open and more frequented th an on any other day o f th e

,
w eek . In the evenin every v illage h as its rural ball ; fo r
d ancing is the ra ge 0 a ll classes ; and from its great p r e v a
lence private persons are met with in society W hose tale nts
, ,
r ival those o f the pro fessors .
A Y ear in Europ e by Pr of G is com , . r .

U
"
NIVER S AL T RAVELLER . 255
SO C I E TY .
Th e c i e of P a r i s taken as a whole and includin g all

so , ,
p arties and ac tions is infinitely superior in point o f taste a o

, ,
q ui r em e n t and courtesy to that o f the capital o f any othe r

, ,
n ation . Paris th e elysiu m o f men o f letters h as always bee n
, ,
the resort o f foreigne rs o f literary sc ientific and poli tic al e m , ,
i n e n c e and princes and po tentates who have infl uenced th e ,
d es tinies o f nat ion s are seen mingling in her circles with th e

,
m ore valuable c haracte rs o f E urope whose works and name s ,
a r e destined to reach po s terity whe n ti tles o f higher soun d ,
shall be forgotten and the Humbold ts the Play fairs th e
, , ,
D avys the C as tis th e Canovas &c succe ed ed in the P arisia n
, , ,
.
,
saloons to the S terns the Humes and Walpoles and Alga
, , , ,
rottis o f forme r times T he talen t fo r conversatio n s o c o n
.
s p ic u o u s in France among all classes originatin g perh aps in .

, ,
the rapidity o f perc e p tion a nd fac ility o f combination o f th e
’
people was e arly perfecte d b y institutes which prohibiting

, , ,
an interference in m atters o f government d etermined the ,
p ow e rs o f national intellect to s ubj e cts o f social discussion and

t aste ful analysis .
T he circles o f fash ion in P aris are ch arac teriz ed by a fo r

m ality in the ir arrangem e nt to whic h their sedentary propen ,
s ities in all ranks reatly c ontri but e Nob o dy is locomotiv e
g .
from a love o f mot io n ; the re a re no pro fesse d lou ngers n o r ,
h abitual walkers E verybo dy sits o r reclines when where

.
, , ,
a n d as o ft en as he can ; and chairs are provide d; not o nly fo r
t hose who resort to the public gardens but also in the streets
'
, ,
a long the most fashionable Boulevards and be fore all the c a é s
and es ta m i n ets which are farmed out at a moderate pri ce f ,
.
,
T h e promenade o f pe rsons o f fashion is merely a seat in th e ,
a ir. T hey drive to the gardens o f th e T uiller ie s alight fro m ,
t heir c arriage s and im me diately take their se at unde r the s h ad e
,
o f the noblest groves o f c h e st nut s or in t h e perfume d a tmo ,
s phere o f ros es and orange trees -
.
T he gr e at attrac tion and cemen t o f societ y in F ranc e is ,

c onversation ; and enerally s p e a kin all forms and arrang
g ,
e
m ents tend towar d s i ts pro m otio n o rival s plendor s no os .
,
t entatio n s d is p la y n o indiscrimi na te multitude make a p art o f
‘
, ,
the scheme T he t alents which lend t he ir charms to s ocial
.
c ommunion are estimated fa r beyond the rank that might dig

,
n i fy or the magnificen ce that mi gh t adorn it
,
In the saloo n .
,
‘
V i gil m igh t take his place with A ugus tus and Vol tair e with
é onrl e ’
.
,
,
T he youth o f bot h sexes m arry n o w a s form e r ly m uc h , ,

earlier than in England ; and wi thout p ausin g to cons ider th e
e ffec ts o f such prematu re uni ons upo n moral and politi cal li fe ,
it is ve ry obvious that t he ple as ures o f pri vate socie ty gain m a
t er ia lly by the change M arri ages are still pretty ge nerally ar
.
r anged by the prudence and foresight o f the parents ; b ut

d aughters are no longer shut up in c onvents till the day o f ,
t heir nuptials ; nor ar e they conde mned to behold fo r the fi r s t
time th eir h u s b and a n d their lover alm o s t at th e s ame mo ,
256 U NIVE R S A L TR A VELLER .
FR A N C E .
m ent . E d uc ated chiefly at home , they mingle with the c us

t o m a r y uest s o f the m aternal circle , from w hich the compa u
g
io n o f t eir future li fe is not un fre q uentl y chosen ; and since
i nclinati on is never violated , nor repugnanc e resisted , it must
o ften happen among the young, the p le a s in and the s us c ep
tible , that duty and pre ference may go toget er h .
T here is perhaps no country in the world where the social

p o sition o f woman is so delectable , as in France T he darlin g .
of s ociety indul ged not spoiled p residing over its pleasures

, , , ,
pr eserving its refi n e ments tak ing nothing from its strength , ,
a dding much to its brilliancy permitted the full exercise o f all ,
her faculties retainin g t h e full endowment o f all her graces
, ,
she pursues the round o f her honored existence limited only ,
in her c ourse by her feebleness and her t a ste by her want o f ,
power and absence o f inclination to overstep the m od esty o f

”
nature or to in fringe upon privileges exclusively the a ttr i
,
bute f h e s tr a n ger s ex
o t “ T o p int the character o f woman
a .
”
“
says Diderot you m us t u s e the feather o f a b u tter fly s wing ” ’
,
, .
He must have meant the character o f a F ench woman w h o r

,
unit es to her more solid qualities many o f the peculiar a ttr i
butes o f that lively insect L i ght brilliant and volatile s h e .
, , ,
s eems to flutter on the s ur face o f li fe with endles s adaptation s ,
to its fo rms b u t qui ck shrewd and rapid in her perceptions , , ,
s h e app e ar s t o rea c h by intuition what intellect vainly toils t o ,
obtain by in fe rence and combinati o n More susceptible tha n . .
s en s i b le more awakened through her imagina t ion than e x c i

,
ted thro u gh her heart love is to her almost a J ew d e f a n t
,
’
n .
T he distrust she inspires in her lover acts favorably fo r h er ,
interests on the natural inconstancy o f man and she secure s ,

the durability o f her chain by the carelessnes s with which ,
s h e imposes it S haring largely in the national de ference fo r
.
ties o f blood she is peculiarly adapted to the influence o f

,
h abitual attachments ; a n d in whatever other countries friend
s hip may raise her alt a rs it is in Fr a nce and by the Frenc h , ,
wo m en that she will find them best served

,
.
*
T he French women are e x tremely clever in the transaction

o f business ; and possessing perhaps an innate fondness fo r
s upremacy increased by education and h abit they e x ercise a
, ,
controlling influence in all the depa r tments o f li fe They are .
the undisputed mistresse s o f nearly all the shops in Paris and ,

manage them with great financial skill It is s u rprising t o .
find among them so much indu s try patient d rudgery and la , ,
b o r io u s a t te n tic m to busi n es s T hey are up early and late

‘
.
a b s o r b e d i n the cares o f their families whose s u pport depen d s ,

chiefly on their e fforts whi le their husbands are loungi n g at
,
the th e atre co ffee h ou s e or gambling table T his respons i
,
-
,
.
‘
b ility is voluntarily assumed and arises from a prope n sity tr} ,
r ul e in every thing 1
'
.
F r an ce, b y L ady Mo rgan .
t L et ter s fro m E ur op e
'
.
2 53 U N IVER S A L TRA VE LLER .
of C hrist i anity altogether is b ecome however very fa s h i o n a , , ,

b le in France T he moral aspects o f the co untry are not a
.
l ittle disheartening T he number o f the Roman C athol i c .
clergy o f all or d ers and degrees i s'
v iz I 4 archbishop s ,
-
.
6 0 bishops , 1 7 4 vicars general 66 0 canons 7 67 rectors o f t h e -

, ,
first class rectors o f the second class
,
curates , ,
vicars 7 1 ch apter s o f S t Denis 1 6 choristers
,
.
, ,
s eminaris t s T h e numbe r of Re fo r m ed o r C alvinist minister s
.
is 360 and o f Lutheran 22 5 T he clergy cost the country

,
.
francs exclusive o f fees g ift s and other allowance s , , ,

from p ari shes communes and dep a rtments , ,
.
*
Th e p eop l e wh o hav e de ri ve d their o r igi n n ow i n h a b i t S p a in ,

from a vari e ty o f stocks its soil having been occ upied in w e ,
ce ss ion by t h e C arthaginians R o mans Goths A rabs and , , , ,
F re n ch T h e original natives were in course o f time con
.
founded with their conqu erors who introduced in some de , ,

gree their own law s manners and custom s ; and hence h a s
, , ,
resulted that diversity o f appearance and character which i s ,

s o observable among its present inhabitants A s the physica l .
c o nstitution o f a people is generally influenced b y the nature

o f the climate under which they live and as every province o f ,
S pain di ffers mat e r ially in this respect this circumstance may ,

likewise in a great measure account fo r this variety “ Th e .
, ,
” “
C astilians s ays Laborde appear delicate but they are
, , ,
strong T he G alicians are large n ervous robust and abl e
.
, , ,
to endure fatigue T he inhabitant s o f E s t r a m a du r a a r e .
strong stout and well made but more swarthy than any other
, ,
-
,
S paniards The A n d alusians are light slender and per fectly
.
, ,
well proportioned T he Murcians are gloomy indolent and
-
.
, ,
heavy ; their complexion is pale and almost lead colored , ,
-
.
T he Val e ncians are d e lic ate slight and e fle m in a te but intel , ,

'
,
i igen t and active in labor T he C a t a li a n s are nervous strong
,
.
, ,
active intelligent inde fa tigable and abo ve the middle sta ture
, , ,
.
T he A r r a go n e s e are tall and well made and as robust as but -

, ,
less active than the C at a li a n s T he Biscayans are strong ,

.
,
v igorous agile and gay ; thei r complexion is fine their ex
, , ,
p ression qu i ck anim ated cheer ful and open I n general the

, , ,
.
,
S paniards may be described as rather b elow than above th e

middle sta tur e well proportioned and o f a swarthy complex ,
-
,
ion with a n intelligent countenance regular features and
, , ,
eyes quick and animated T he females are naturally beauti .
fu l and the greater part are brunett es o f a slender and deli

, ,
cate shape with a fine oval face and black or rich brown
, ,
hair T hey have large and open eyes usually bl a ck or dark
.
,
0 i
Am er can A man ac for 1 834 l .
U NIVER S AL T R A VELLER . 2 59
C H A R A CT E R O F T HE P E OP L E .
hazel d elicate and regular features a peculiar supple n ess and

, , ,
a charming natural grace in their motions with a pleasing a n d ,
expressive gesture T heir countenances are O pen and full o f

.
,
truth and intelligence ; the look is gentle animated e x p res '
, ,
sive ; their smile agreeable ; they are naturally pale but th i s

"
paleness seems to vanish under the brilliancy and express i ve

lustre o f t h e ir eyes T hey are full o f grace which appears i n
.
,
their discourse in their looks their gestures motions and a r

, , , ,
T h e d isp os i ti o n s this people are even m ore

a n d ch a r a c t er o f
diversified th an their outward appearance ; and there are not
two provinces in whi ch the y are ex actly alike T he old Cas .
tili a n s s ays the author already quoted are silent gloomy and
, , , ,
indolent ; they a r e the most severely grave o f all the S paniards ,
b ut they possess a steady prudence an admirable constancy ,
under adversity an elevation o f soul and an unalterable probi
, ,
ty and u p rightness ; they are faith ful friendly c o n fi din g u n , , ,
a ffectedly kind ; in short a completely worthy people S om e ,

.
districts have peculiar shades o f character .
T he P a r i eg os are active and clever in trade and are the ,
p edlers o f a great part o f S pain T he inh abitants o f the val .
ley o f Mena are robust courageous and employed in a gr ic ul , ,

tu re ; they believe th emselves descended from the ancient
C antabri T he M a a g a tos are lean dry frank but the most
. r
, , ,
taciturn o f the old C astilians ; there are some am ong them ,
w h o were never seen to laugh they particularly addict them
selves to the business o f carriers .
T he character o f the natives o f N ew C a s ti l e is nearly the

same but more open and less grave and taciturn ; it is als o
, ,
so m ewhat m odified in the districts bordering on other prov

i n c es. T he qualities usually acquired by residing in or near
a ca p ital may be observed in them T he inhabitants o f A l .
c arri a ought to be distinguished from the rest as simple amia , ,

b le and industrious
, .
T he inhabitants o f L a M a flbh a greatly resemble thos e o f

N e w Castile but are more serious and gloomy ; they are a
,
g ood kind o f p eo p le .
I n docility and conceit make part o f the ch aracter o f th e

people o f N a va r r e ; they are distinguished by lightness and
adroitness .
T he B is ca ya n s are proud conceite d impetuous and irrita

, , , ,
b le ; they h ave something abrupt in discourse and in action ,
and an air o f haughtiness and independence ; they are les s
-
sober than most other S p a n i a rd s but are industrious dilige n t , ,

faith ful hos p itable a n d sociable
, T hey have an open coun
, .
t e n a n c e and a q uick anim ated and laughing expression

, , ,
.
T he women are equall y h aughty and c ourageous T hey la .
bor in fields and at other works where strength is require d , ,
L ’
ab or de s V i ew of S p am .
260 U NIVE R S AL T R A VELLER .
SP A I N .
like the men T he idea o f som ething noble attached to being

.
a native o f Biscay influences the character o f the inhabitants ,

o f this pro vince in a singular m anner ; it keeps up among them
‘
a feeling o f dignity which gives a haughtiness to their c ar ,

r ia ge and an elevation to their sentiments even in the lowest
, ,
s tations o f li fe .
T he G a li ci a ns are gloomy and live very little in society ; ,

u t they a r e b o ld laborious sober and distinguished fo r their
B delit
, , ,
Tt s tu r i a ns particip ate in the character both o f the Gali

-
c i a n s and Bisc ayans but they are less industrious than the ,
former less civilized less sociable less amiable and more
, , , ,
h au h ty than the latter T heir haughtiness is also more .
m ar ed more repulsive and less so ftened b y th e ir temper and

, ,
v
manners .
The people o f E s tr a m a d ur a are proud haughty vain se , , ,
rio n s indolent and still m ore sober than the Galicians T hey
, ,
.
seldom go out o f their own province are a fraid o f strangers , ,

and shun their company ; but they are true honorable and , ,
courageous .
T he M u ci a ns are lazy listless plotting and suspicious ;

r , , ,
they s carcely go out o f their own country and neither addict ,
t hemselves to science to the a r ts t o commerce navigation , , , ,
nor a military li fe ; they only cultivate their lands from me
,
c e s s ity and m ake but little advantage o f a rich and fertile

,
soil a facility o f irrigation and the m ost happy climate
, , .
T h e common people are sometimes dangerous ; they too fr e

quently m ake use o f the kni fe and the da gger ; people o f a s u
perior c ondition lead a melancholy and monotonous li fe,
.
T he V lenci a n s are light inconstant and without decision

a
, ,
o f character ; gay fond o f p leasure little attached to one
, ,
another and still less to strangers ; but they are a ffable
, ,
entle and agreeable in the intercourse o f society and able
gy their diligence to unite the love o f pleasure with indus
,
,
, ,
tr i o u s occupation T hey are accused o f b eing vindictive

.
,
and hiding under a mild exterio r their wishes and schemes o f
vengeance till an opportunity o ffers o f executing them in a
,
s a fe and secret manner ; but the hired assassins formerly ,

common in Valencia have disappeared and the people are ,
daily becoming more civilized by the operation o f wealth and
p rosperity .
T he C a ta la ns are proud haughty violent in th eir passions ; , ,

rude in di scourse and in action turbulent untractable a n d , , ,
,
p assionately fond o f independence ; they are not particularly

liberal but active industrious and inde fatigable ; they a r e
, , ,
s ailors husbandmen and builders and run to all corners o f
, , ,
the worl d to seek their for tunes T hey are brave intrepi d .
, ,
sometimes rash obstinate in a d h er in g t o their schemes a n d
,
'
o ft en s uccess ful in vanq uishing by their steady perseverance , ,

o bstacles which would appear insurmountable to others .
T he A r r a gon es e are hau ghty intrepid ambitious tenacious , , ,

see U N IVE R S A L T RAVELLER .
SP A I N .
gallantry While it would be considered indecorous in an un

.
m arried female to be seen alone o ut o f doors , or sitting t ete a -
t et e with a gentleman , the married lady goes where she pleases

receives what company she likes ; and even when indispose d
in bed she does not scru ple to see every one o f her m ale
,
visiters Many gentlemen are introduced to ladies o f the first
.
fashion and visit them on the most familiar footing without the
,
least acquaintance or even personal knowledge of their hus ,
bands Immediately a ft er m arriage the lady must h ave as a

.
, ,
m atter o f course a cor t e o or lover who has in general a ve r y
,
‘
, ,
stro n g hold upon her a e c tio ns and co m pared with who m the ,
husband is a person o f very secondary consideration He at .
tends her upon all occasions in private and in public in health , ,

and in sickness When she sits at home he is at her side ;
-
.
,
when she walks out his arm supports her ; and when she j oins ,
in the dance he must be her partner S o general is this sys
,
.
tem that there is scarcely a lady o f respectability who has not

, ,
her cor t eio Mr T ownsend mentions the cir cumstance o f a
. .
e n tle m a n in C arthagena saying one m o r n i n

“
to a friend B e ,
ore I go to rest this night the whole city w i 1 be thrown into ,
con fusion ” T his he himsel f occasioned by going home an
.
hour be fore his usual time to the no small vexation o f his ,

wi fe and her cor t ej o whose precipitate retreat a n d unexpect ,
ed arrival in his house occasioned the like con fusion there ; ,
and thus by successive and similar O perations was literally
fulfilled the prediction o f the morning T hough it would a p .
pear from this extract that m arried men do not hesitate to

hold the situation o f a cortej o yet in this disgrace ful connex ,
ion the clergy in general hold th e p r in c ip a l places ; in the
great cities the canons o f the cathedra ls ; and in country vil
,
la ges the monks
,
*
.
T h e S p a n i a rds m a y, i n g en er a l, b e d i vi d ed i n to two clas s es

n obl es , o r h i d a lg os , a n d p l ebei a n s T he former includes a ll .
those whose families, either b immemorial prescription , or

by the king s patent are entitle to particular privileges T his
’
,
.
honor branches out through every male whose father enj oys
that privilege and thus S pain is overrun with g en tr y many o f
, ,
whom earn their living in the meanest employments T he .
grandees hold the first rank and are divided into three classes , ,
which however di ffer from each other only in the form o f the
, ,
ceremonial to be observed by them when intr oduced at court .
A grandee o f the highest rank when presented to the king , ,

covers himsel f be fore he replies to the salutation o f his m aj es
ty ; one o f the second remains uncovered till he has paid his ,
compliments ; but one o f the third rank is not allo wed to cover ,
him sel f till he has paid his compliments m ade his bow a n d , ,
mingled with the crowd o f cour tiers T he privileges o f this .
b ody are very important T hey alone are admissible into th e .
’
To wnsend s Tr ave s in S p a n l i .
C OS T U M E .
four military orders ; they are exempt from ce rtain imposts ,
from service in the militia and from the b i lleti ng o f troops

-
.
,
T hey are not liable to imprisonment fo r debt except fo r ar ,
rears o f taxes payable to the kin they cannot be confined i n

the c ommon prisons nor c an t eir h ouse the i r horse thei r
, , ,
mule or th eir arm s be taken in execution

, ,
.
T h e d r es s f o the di fferent provinces

th e i nh a bi t a n ts o f varie s
in several particulars although in others there is a s triking r e
,
semblance We sh all notice the costume o f several provinces
.
.
T hat o f the city o f B arcelona in the province o f C atalonia i s , ,
the u sual S pa n ish dress T he ladies o f every condition wear .
the b a qu in (skirt ) a ya (body or S pencer ) and m a n tilla

s a ,
s
v c il ) together with silk stockings and shoes embroidered

( , ,
either with silk or with gold and silver fringe spangles or

, , ,
pearls T heir feet are fo r the most part small and well shaped
.
-
,
a n d the b a s q u i n a admits o f the display o f this important part

o f the dress and figure o f a S panish belle T he veil i s th e .
only covering worn on the head ; and by the m aterial o f which

this is made the higher classes are distinguished A S panis h
,
.
lady s full dres s is generally black with the veil either white
’
,
or black more commonly the latter ; her undres s is o f any

,
color T hey are fond o f adorning their h air ne ck arms and

.
, , ,
fin ers with j ewels T he fa n is a most indispensable article ;
a n dto wield this sceptre o f the fair with grace and to m ake
.
,
it per form all its telegraphic p urposes is a prime accomplish ,
ment T he gala dress o f the noblemen is as superb as gold
.
and silver embroidery can m ake it .
T he common dres s o f a C atalonian sailor or muleteer Mr ,

.
S winburne says is brown ; and the distinctive mark by whic h

,
they are kno w n in S pain —is a red woollen cap falling forwards , , ,
like that o f the ancient Phrygians T he middling s ort o f p e o .
ple and a r tifi c er s wear h ats and dark clothes wit h a hal f wide ,
-
coat carelessly tossed over the shoulders T he dres s o f the .
women is a black silk shirt over a little hoop shoes without ,
heels bare shoulders and a black veil sti ff ened out w ith wire
, , ,
so as to arch out on each side o f the head somewhat resem ,
bling the hooded serpent T he use o f slouched h ats white .

,
shoes and large brown cloaks by the Catalonians h ad been
, ,
forbidden by government .
In M u r ci a the women dress as in other parts o f S pain b ut

, ,
instead o f the elegant s atin or velvet b a s gu i n a s an d ric h m a n
t i lla s which are seen elsewhere the b a s qu in a is o f yellow red , , ,
green or black serge wide s p reading and short showing in
, ,
-
, ,
place o f the h andsome shoe and stocking o f a S p anish belle ,
red or yellow woollen hose hal f way u p to the k nee T he m a n -
.
t i lla worn here is heavy and dismal ; a n d instead o f the

, , ,
usual S panish head dress the Murcian ladies h ave their sleek
-
, ,
shining black hair combed backwards tight and flat ; while
,
the grace ful fa n is superseded by a huge chaplet o f larg e

b eads reachin g nearly to the groun d which they carry a l
, ,
2 64 U NIVER S AL T RAV E LLER .
SP A I N .
most always about with them even when not going to church . .
T he military the merchants and the o ffi cial persons , dress in

, ,
the French fashion T he common people in town s wear a .
,
round h a t o v e r a black net a black waistcoat a n d a large
.
, ,
brown or black m antle The Murcian peasant wears instead .

,
o f a cloak a piece o f coarse striped woollen hal f an ell wide
, , ,
and two ells long thrown over the right shoulder a white , ,
j acket short white trousers not c o v e r in the knee a r e d
, , ,
woollen girdle shoes o f hemp or bass an either a round or
, , ,
slo u ched h at or a leathern cap called a m on ter a From his
,
.
general appearance and sunburnt complexion h e might be ,

taken fo r a M oor .
T he dress o f the G r a n a di a n s consists o f the most costly

Persi an or Turkish robes o f either fine woollen linen silk , , , ,
o r c o tto n In winter they wear the a lb r n os or A frican cloak ;
.
,
o
in summer a loo se white wrapper T he soldiers o f S panish

_
extraction use in war a sh ort coat o f mail a light helmet A ra , ,

bian horse furniture a leathern buckler a n d a slender spear
-
,
.
T hose born in A frica bear very long staves called a m r a s ,

.
T h e Women are h andsome b u t o f a stature rather below the

'
,
middle size so that it is r a re to meet with a tall one among
,
them T hey are very delicate and proud o f encouraging a
.
,
prodigious length o f hair ; their teeth are white as the d riven

snow and their whole person is ke p t per fectly sweet by the
,
abun d ant use o f the m ost exquisite per fumes ; they are light
and airy in their gait o f a sprightly acute wit and smart i n , , ,
con v ersation In this age the vanity o f the sex has carried
.
,
the art o f dressi n g the m selves out with elegance pro fusion , ,
and magnificence to such an excess th at it can no longer be
,
'
simply c alled a luxury but it is become absolute madness ,

.
*
Th e following graphic description o f a great diversity o f

d ress noticed in the frontier city o f B adaj oz the capital o f the ,
province o f E s tr a m a d ur a is from the pen o f a British o fficer : ,
T he market p lace o f B adaj oz which at the time I s a w it , , ,

was crowded with stra n gers had all the appearance o f a pic ,
t ur e s q u e and well arranged m asquerade -
T he di fferent modes .
o f dress ancient and not liable to da ily changes a r e no

, , , ,
doubt the same they were four centuries ago
,
.
T he E s tr a m a d u r a n himsel f h as a brown j acket without a ,
collar a n d with sleeves which lace at the shoulder s o that

, ,
they are removed at pleas u re T he red sash is universally .
worn and a cloak is generally carried on the le ft arm A

,
.
jacket and waistcoat pro fusely ornamented with silk lace and ,
bu ttons o f silver filigree the hair clubbed and tied with broad ,
b lack riband and a neat c a p o f cloth or vel vet m ark the A h

, , ,
d al us i a n T he ass driver o f C ordova i s clothed in a complete

.
-
dress o f the tawny brown leather o f his native province T h e .
lemonade seller o f Valencia h as a linen shirt open at the nec k

-
,
a fancy waistcoat without sleeves a kilt o f white cotton w hite , ,
i
N ew Ed nburgh En cy c op edia l .
266 U NIVER S AL T RAVE L LE R .
SP A I N .
Th e Irish women tie a kerchie f round their heads wear r e d ,

skirts go bare footed in all which they resemble the Biscaya ns
, , ,
and with them h ave an equally good opinion o f their anc ient
descent T he poor Biscayans though haughty are laborious
.
, ,
and active an example worthy to be imitated by the Irish S o

, .
m any c o n c ur r in circumstances support the idea o f their h av

ing been origina ly one people .
T h e u n i ver s a l a n d r egu la r di s h fo r all classes is the p ot eh ei r o ,

o r p u ch er o a stew o f meat with an excellent species o f large
,
pea which grows in the utmost per fection near S a n Ilde fonso
, .
With by far the greater part o f the populati on this forms the ,
whole dinner and is truly a national dish being regularly
, ,
served every d ay at the king s table as well as at that o f the ’

,
p oorest mechanic A nother favorite dish is called g a p a ch o

. z
,
consisting o f bread oil vine ar onions salt and red pepper , , , , ,
-
,
mixed together in water ith such a mess a S paniard o f .
,
the lower class appeases his hunger fo r the whole day T o .
these national dishes m ay be added , th e s op a d e g a to or s ou p

me agre made o f bread oil s alt garlick and water ; and m i
, , , , ,
g as cr umbs o f bread fried with oil s alt and pepper

, ,
On th e , ,
.
latter or on rice with a sausage or a bit o f pork lard boile d

, ,
-
in it the S panish tr 0 0ps sub sisted fo r months durin the first

, ,
Peninsular war without a murmur In almost all t e dishes
,
.
,
except the p o t eh ei r o oil is greatly used and that not o f the
,
, ,
best quality T wo other chie f ingre dients in S panish cookery
.
are the tom a t a or love apple and the green pepper pod : the
, ,
-
,
former stewe d and the latter boiled and eaten with bread
,
.
form in their seasons very material articles o f food amon g

, ,
the lower classes T he markets o f Madrid are scantily sup.
plied with meat —bee f and veal from A ragon mutton from
, ,
T oledo and Leon pork from E s tr a m a d ur a game from Old , ,
Castile and other districts and fish from Valencia —but ple u , ,
t i fully With vegetables and fruit from Valenci a and A ragon ,

flour from Old C astile and wine from L a Manch a T he gra p es ,
.
,
melons peaches and cherries are delicious

, , ,
.
During dinner the C astilians drink plenti fully o f wine dilu

,
ted with water and a fe w bottles o f French wine terminate th e
,
r epast ; co ffee is then served up a fter which the company r e ,
tire to take their s i es t a Fresh parties are formed in the ,

“
even
ing either fo r the prado t he theatre or t er ta li us
.
‘ In the , ,
.
,
“
use o f wine says Mr S emple they are certa i nly temperate ;
”
,
.
,
and a drunken S paniard even o f the lowest class is scarcely , ,
ever seen in the streets o f Madrid T o atone fo r this they .

,
smoke immoderately and at all hours from their first rising , ,
to their h our o f going to bed T hey do not use pipes but .
,
sm oke the tob acco lea f itsel f rolled up or cut small and wrap ,
ped in a slight covering such as paper or the thin lea ves , ,
of maize Great quantities

.
o f tobacco thus prepared are i m
ported fro m the Havana under the name o f cigars in slight , ,
c edar or m ahogany boxes containing a thousan d each .

,
T hose wrapped in the lea f o f ma i z e a r e called p a c h i ll o s or ,

U NIVER S AL T RAVELLER . 267
R O A DS — L AN G U AG E .
little straws and are chiefly smoked ,

by the women fo n w h o s e
,
us e also others are formed o f white paper ornamented W i th ,
a kind o f gold wire I have seen women o f some ran k play . ,
ia g at cards and smoking these p a c h illo s

,
T he great dutches s .
o f A lva one o f the most sensible and noble sp i r i ted women

-
,
that S pain has p roduced fo r m any years was fond o f u s m g ,
t hem ” .
I t is t h e r em ar k o f a wr i t er , th a t th er e ar e but t welve good

r o a ds in S pain ; these are M A d a m iz e d T he pri nc i pal o f
‘
.
these roads are from Madrid to Bayonne to Barcelona and , ,
to S eville Between Madri d and T oledo the latter o f which

.
,
i s a large city and an important place 1 00 miles distant there

, ,
h as been no road made and the route lies through fields , ,
woods and rocks T he nec essary e ffect o f this want o f ia
,
.
ternal communication is to repress th e spirit o f industry and

i mprovement A gricultu re su ff ers in an especial degree The
. .
little travel which is accomplished is either o n horse b ack , on ,

mules in diligences or in a long covered wagon called
, , ,
g a ler a or g a lley T he diligences are drawn by seven or eight

.
m ules and travel at the rate o f seven m iles an hour

,
T he .
c hie f muleteer is called M a yo r a l and the postillion L a g a l ,

.
T ravelling in S pain it is well known is attended with danger, , ,

fr om numerous bands o f robbers w h o in fest the country ,
.
Murders perhaps do no t o ften take place but the traveller is

, , ,
s ure to have a sound beating unless his pocket or portmanteau
furnishes some booty to the plunderer Guards are frequently .
sent with the diligences but the traveller h as no security from ,

these as they frequently have an understanding with the rob
,
bers and divide with them the spoil which has been take n ,
from the v ery persons whom they have been sent to guard .
In some places the traveller is warned o f d anger by crosse s

,
'
which are erected and on which are inscribed notices o f tragi

,
c a l events which happe ned in th ose spots ; fo r example “Her e
,
J ohn was killed doc ” .
,
Th e S p a n i s h la ngu a g e is
a compound o f the Latin and T eu
tonic with a sma ll admixture o f A rabic When the country
, .
was divided into a v a r ie ty o f independent sovereignties eac h '
,
kingdom had a dialect 0 t its own But since the union o f the .
crowns the dialect o f C astile has become the general language

,
o f t h e whol e monarchy and is still c alled the Castilian l a n ,
guage It is spoken in its purest state in New Castile espe

.
,
c i ally in the ancient kingdom o f T oledo and is one o f the finest
,
o f h e E uropean langu ages It is dignified harmonious ener
t .
, ,
geti c and expressive ; and abounds in grand and sonorou s
,
express i ons wh i c h un ite into measured period s whose c a

, ,
dence i s very a greeable to the ear It is a language w e ll adapted .
to p oetry but i t also inclines to exaggeration and its ve h e

,
m ence e as fly degenerates into bombast

,
T hough naturally .
gra v e i t e as fly adm i ts o f p leasantry In the mouth o f well

. .
, .
SPA IN .
e d ucated men it is noble and expressive ; lively and pointed

,
in that o f the common people ; sweet seductive and p e r s u a , ,
s ive when utter e d by a female
, A mongst the orators it i s .
,
touching and imposi n g though rather d i ffuse ; at the bar and , ,
i n the schools it is barbarous ; and is spoken b y those about
,
the court in a conci se and agreeable m anner In the othe r .
provinces its purity has su ff ered considerably from the in

,
t r o d uc tio n o f foreign words and idiom s It is mix ed with .
French in Navarre C atalonia and Valencia ; with P ortuguese , ,

in Galicia and with A rabic in Murcia and A ndalusia The .
Basque which is still spoken in Biscay is supposed to be the ,

ancient la n guage o f that country be fore the invasion o f the
Romans and is mentioned by S trabo a n d S eneca It has n o
, .
analogy with any known tongue ; and is preserved without al

t e r a t io n or corruption in the mountainous parts o f Biscay .
T hough it appears harsh and coarse to those who do n o t u h

d er s ta n d it y e t it is said to be destit ute neither o f eleg ance nor
,
expression .
*
D a n ci n g is a f a vor i t e a mus em ent o f the whole nation ; youn g

and old equally engage in it with enthusiasm Besides th e
,
.
dances common to ot her countries the S paniards have thre e ,

th at are purely n ational namely the f a n d a n go the bo l er o and , , , ,
the s egu i d illa Mr T ownsend gives a lively idea o f their p a s
. .
s ion fo r these dances by s aying :

“ I f a person were to come ,
s u d denly into a church or a co u rt o f justice playing the f a n , ,
d a n g o or the bo ler o priests j udges lawyers criminals a ud i , , , , ,
ence one and all grave and gay you n g and old would quit
, , , ,
their functions forget all t heir distinctions and comme n c e
, ,
dancing Nocturnal serenades o f vocal or instru mental music
.
are given by the young men under the windows o f their m is

tresses R om r i es or pilgri m ages to celebrate ch a pels o r
. a , , ,
hermitages on the e v e o f the festival o f the p atron saint a r e
, ,
v ery fashionable T he devotees and th ose who accompany

.
,
them from curiosity or worse motives pass the night either , ,
in the porch o f the ch u rch or ch apel or in the neighborin ,

g
field s or under tents : m e n w o m en and children are hud d le d

, , , ,
together ; they eat drink laugh sing lie down and sleep ; , , , ,
w hile darkness throws a veil over a scene altogether i n co m

patible with acts o f devotion In the same spirit when the , ,
c hurch bells at sunset give the signal o f repeating the prayer
, ,
to the Virgin the per formers at the theatres as well as t h e

, ,
a u dience fall u pon their knees and so remain fo r sev eral

, ,
m inutes ; the busy multitude in the streets are also hushed on

the same occasion and arrested in their p u rsuits as i f by , ,
m agic and all carriages stop ; the women cover their fa ces
,
with their fans the m e n take o ff their h ats and all breathe
, , ,
or are supposed to breathe a short prayer to the protectin g ,
p o wer w hich has brought them to the close o f anot her day .
Modern Tr avell er .
SP A I N .
tween his shoulders T he h ull ran a fe w paces stagge red

.
,
and dropped dead T he trumpets sounded a flourish ; horses
.
galloped in and being fastened to the carcass dragged it

, ,
away amid the applauding shouts o f the spectators S ix or .
seven other bulls were then despatched in a similar manner

with only such variations as were occasioned by the di fferent
degre e s o f courage which the animals possessed When the .
last bull wa s fighting the matador so contrived it that he , ,

gave him the coup d e gr a c e immediately under the box in
which Lord Wellington and the E nglish party were seated .
B e fore this operation he addressed himsel f to his lor d ship

, ,
a n d said with much dignity that he should kill that bull to the ,
health o f K ing George the T hird w hich was quickly per form ,
ed His lordship thre w him some money and the entertain
.
,
m ent closed .
“T his bull fi h t was represented to m e as a very in ferior ex

g
-
h ib itio n o w ing to the coolness o f the weather ; the b u ll s h aving

,
much more courage during the intense heat o f summer than ,
at the present season (N o ve m b er ) It is certainly an amuse
,
.
ment attended with great cruelty both to the bulls and the
h orses though not involving much danger to the men
,
From .
this they were partly secured by their own agility and by the ,
de x terous appli c ation o f their cloaks when the animal charged
them and partly by the barriers placed round the circle b e
, ,
hind which they retired when pr essed by the bull How r e .
p u gn a n t s oever this diversion may appear to every delicate

and feeling mind it is more fre quented and admired by the
,
ladies than by the gentlemen T hey attend these exhibitions .
i n their gayest dresses applaud the address o f the inhuman,

comba tants and fee l the greatest solicitude at the di fferent crit
,
ical turns o f the fight Many o f the young country gentlemen

.
m ay trace their r u in t o these spectacles as decidedly as E n ,
g li s h m e n o f the same class m ay trace thei r s to New Market .
In fact it is the great obj ect which engages the attention o f

,
that description o f men distinguished by the term o f m j os “ a .
E d u ca t i o n i n S p a i n is extremely low T here were formerl y .
twenty four universities , but they are at present reduced to

-
fi ft ee n , and o f these , only s ix deserve the n ame— S alam anca ,

T oledo , S aragos sa , Valencia , A lcala , and C ervera T hat o f .
S alamanca is t h e most ancient, and was at one time the most

celebrated in E urope Besides the universities , military a n d
.
naval schools exist , and the means o f elementary instruction

are fo und in all parts o f the country ; but bein under the di ”
rection o f a bigoted priesthood , they have lit e other e ffect

tha n to propagate error , and such error as will advance t h e
i nterest o f the pap al power .
Th e li b er a l a r ts in S pain were once cultivated with gr eat

J acob
’
s Tr a vel s.
U NIVER S AL T RAVELLER . 27 1
P O RTU G A L :
s uccess T he ir architec t ure o f the sixteenth century has bee n
.
compared to that o f the R emans and the bridges o f Badaj os ,

and T oledo with some o f the public buildings o f the latter city
, ,
and o f Madrid deserve th e c ar efii l attention o f the skil ful o b
,
s erver
“
.
S pain can b o a s t a ls o o f some dis tinguished sculptors ; but

” “
o f all the liberal arts s ays Laborde painting is that which
<
, ,
has been most cultivated in S pain and in which its natives
'
,
have best succeeded T he S panish school holds a middle .
place between the Italian and Flemish schools being more ,

natural than the first more noble than the second and partici
, ,
pating in the beauties o f both ” A mong its distinguished .
pain ters may be mentioned Ribera better known by the name ,

o f S p a gn o le t distinguished fo r his skill in r e p re s e n t in
,
s ufi e r
ing and sorrow— Velasquez excellent in portraits ,
u r illo
-
,
noted fo r the finish and warmth o f his coloring Music is cul .
t iv a te d and many o f the national airs o f S pa i n are beauti ful

,
.
T he former is not as pathetic as the Italian but has greater ,
energy and approximates more to the romantic It speaks ” .

, ,
says a w r iter o f a more mountainous country o f a more high
, ,
souled and chivalrous people T he I talian airs breathe o f little .
but love T he songs o f S pain are mingled with romance de

.
,
v o t io n,
and glory as well as with tenderness Music is not
,
.
cultivated as in Italy ; but it is t h e a m u s e m en t o f all ranks and '
conditions in S pain T he muleteer sings to beguile the lon

. g
hours as he speeds on his way and his rude carol is mingle d ,

with the wild ji n gl ing o f the bells T he peasants sing as they .
dance the s eq uid ill a to the s ounds o f the castanet an d guit a

,
r.
T he cavalier j oins his voice to the music o f his guitar when ,

he serenades his high born beauty beneath her latticed window
-
.
“T he guitar is universally play e d by the S paniards and

;
suits well with the wild romantic melody o f S panish airs T he .
Moorish ballads which remain are mourn ful and tender breath , ,
ing the very spirit o f gallantry and impassioned devotion .
T he conquest o f Granada called forth a ll the musical strains

o f her minstrels whether in lamentations over the fallen city
, ,
or in reproaches to the conquerors and the ballad entitled ,
‘
T he S iege and C onquest o f A lhama h a d such an e ffect ,
’
,
th at it was forbidden to be sung by the Moors on pain o f
death within th e walls o f
6 . P OR T U G A L .
Th e P or tug u es e r es em b le th e S p a n i a r ds , but in general they

are not s o tall nor so well m ade T hey h ave swarthy com
le x m n s , blac k h air , and dark eyes , and are said to be ir a s c i
.
B le and reve nge ful in their tempers , an d eager in th eir gestures
G o o drich ’
q nivei s al
-
G eogr ap hy .
272 U N IVER S AL TRAVELLER .
PO RT U G A L .
on trivial occasions T he women are small with brown com .

,
p lex io n s but ,
regular features and dark expressive e yes T h e .
round face and plump form are more esteemed in this country ,
th an the long tapering visage and thin delicate frame o f the
S panish ladies In an interesting volume published b y Mrs
. .
Balie who resided in Portugal fo r about two years and a h al f

, ,
we have the following account o f females in Portugal : S ome
fe w youth ful fa c e s w h i c h I have seen appear pre tty enou gh
'
, ,
the great charm being produced by the dark and brilliant eye
and depth o f eyelash to which I h ave already alluded ; and
.
,
a lth o u gh t h e complexion is generally sallow and almost with , ,
out exception brown I have once or twice remarked a very
, ,
rich and beauti ful low like the bloom o f a crimson carnatio n ,
u pon the cheek he old women appear to m e from the spe
.
,
c im e n s I have hitherto seen to be invariably hideous We ,
.
are given to understand that the higher the rank o f the peo ,
ple in this country the plainer in feature they generally become
, ,
and th at with some fe w exceptions it is among the peasantry

, ,
”
alone that true beauty exists .
S tr ip a f S p ania r dand you make a Portu o h is vi r t u es ,

u e se of
”
him says the panish proverb “I h a v e heard it
’
S
g ,
“
.
more truly said says Dr S outhey add hyp ocrisy to a

”
,
.
S paniard s V ices an
.
’
you h ave the Portu guese ch aracter ” .
,
T he P o rtuguese are c a r a c te r iz e d by di fferent fea tures in the '
d i fferent parts o f the kingdom In Lisbon they are pre emi .

,
-
u ently rem arkable fo r corruption fo r insincerity and luxury ; , ,

in the southern provinces they are simple and unsophis ticate d , .
polite but ex tr em et y indolent ; while in the northern districts

, .
they are open candid industrious enterprising and ambi

, , , ,
tious T he general fea tures h owever o f th e peasantry and
.
, , ,
the inh abitants o f the minor towns are primitiveness and

simplicity such as may be expected to obtain among a peo ~
,
.
,
ple that have enj oyed little interco u rse with strangers — inac
t i v ity want o f enterprise silence retirement dislike to social
, -
, , ,
ple asures attachment to the higher orders blind reverence to
, ,
t h e i r p r ie s ts a d loyalty to their sovereign
,
n T reachery ih .
,
gratitud e v indictiveness h ave also b e en u n i fo r m ly laid to
, ,
their charge Notwithstanding their fondness fo r seclusion
.
,
they are hospitable to strangers particularly if they belong to ,
the P opish church which is the national religion T he n o bil ,
.
ity are proud ostentatious and tyrannical displaying th at

, , ,
feudal illiberality and despotism which is so bane ful to the ,
progress o f liberal knowledge and to indepen d ence o f spirit , ,

and which has now nearly disappeared in all the more civili
zed countries o f E urope T he peasantry are consequently .
, ,
in a state o f complete vassalage to the h i d a lgos or gentlemen , ,
though in opposition to this it m ay be mentioned as a favor
, ,
able indication o f character that the utmost kindness and a f ,
fa b ility are in general shown to domestic servants no small

, ,
number o f whom spend their days in the same family Tha t .

274 U NIVER S A L TR AV E LLER .
P O RT U G AL .
i nduces this chastity o f taste in decoration , an d I wish it p r o

d u c e d an equally beneficial result in other respects ” .
A mong th e peas antry who come into Lisbon from the coun
tr y , e s p e c i ally o n S undays , it is easy , Mr S emple s ays , to o b
‘
s erve a n um ber o f particulars in dres s and m anners which

,
m ust be re ferred to a C eltic origin Instead o f hats , they fr e .
quently wear c aps or bonnets T he ancient pl aid too warm .

,
t o be carried in this climate as a cloak is converted into a ,
particolored sash which they wear round the middle and in
, ,
which they uni formly c arry a dirk or long kni fe ; and their
favorite instrument o f music is the bagpipe adorned with ,
ribands exactly similar to that used in the Highlands o f
,
S cotland To the sound o f this very in s tru m en two or three
.
o f them together dance a kind o f reel ; or i th e t un e be ,

.
slow and solemn the piper walks backward and forward ,

amidst a silent and attenti ve crowd In their lively dances .
,
they raise " their hands above their heads and keep time ,
with their c astanets T he S cotch High landers observe ex .
a c tly the same practice and there c an be no doubt th at their

s trong snapping o f fingers is i n imitation o f the sound o f the
castanet .
In f
co ns equ en ce o f they spend most
th e bea u t y o th e c l i m a t e,
o f their time in the open air ; and their houses there fore in , ,
stead o f being as in Britain an obj ect o f embellishment and
, ,
c are are plain or are neglected to a degree inconceivable to a
, ,
s tranger ; and the furniture even o f the most elegant edifices is

i ndicative o f poverty or a total disregard o f taste T he houses
,
.
o f even the most opulent and eminent P ortug uese have not yet ,
been disti nguished by paintings or any work o f art or en iu s , .
Billiards backgammon cards and dice h ave been long nown

, , , ,
and practised ; but their chie f amusements are bull fi gh ts in -
the amphitheatre a practice common both in s pa m and P ortu

,
all, and inco m patible with great delic acy or refinement o f
ee i n g .
Beggars are a formidable class in this country ; they in fest

every place not entreating but demanding alms I f they meet
, ,
.
a well dressed person on the road he must o ff er them money

-
, ,
the amount o f which is not al w ays le ft to his discretion He .
must give first fo r the sake o f S t An thony then fo r th e s ake .

,
o f S t Francis ; a fter which he is called upon to give fo r the

.
honor o f the Virgin Mary ; and ulti m ately he is robbed fo r the ,

love o f God !
Th e P or tugu es e l a n gua g e, l ike
the S panish is derived from ,
the Latin which indeed at one period was the language o f
, , , ,
the whole Peninsula but it is also composed o f many Gree k ,
and A rabic words ; and in the southern provinces traces m ay ,
be found o f the ancient dialect o f the Moors A s the royal line .
o f Portugal was o f French origin there is as may be suppose d , , ,
a n a dmixture o f various ter ms o f the lan gua ge o f F rance I t .

U NIV ER S A L TR AVE L LER . 27 5
IT A LY .
is a grave solem n and melodious speech ; the use o f vowel s

, ,
is predominant an d it is possessed o f no guttural sounds ; but
,
when a ton gue like the Portuguese is composed o f a vari ety
, ,
.
o f dialects intr od uced at di fferent periods and bearing little or

“
,
n o r e s e m b a n c e to each other a wide di ff erence of style m ay

.
,
be expected to ob tain between the writers o f the di fferent ages .
T his is the case in a remarkable degree and constitutes one o f ,

the greatest di fficulties in obtaining a knowled ge o f the lan
age ; philology is little studied and no cultivated nati on o f ,
u r o p e has produced fewer or more de fective lexic o ns th an , ,
Portugal .
the Portu guese the following are

A m on g th e p ecu li a r i t i es of ,
very conspicuous Corn instead o f being thrashed is trodden
.
, ,
from the h usk by oxen Women when they ride sit with the .
, ,
le ft side towards the horse s head ; an d a postillion rides on the ’
le ft horse Footmen play at cards whi lst waitin g fo r their mas

.
ters T ailors sit a t work lik e sh oema kers Hair dres sers
. .
-
appear o n S un d a ys with a sword a cockade and two watches

A
, , ,
or at least two watc h chains A tavern is known by a vine -
.
bush ; a house to be let by a piece o f bla nk paper ; and a Jew , ,

by his extra C atholic devotion F is h w o m e n are seen with .
trinkets o f gold and silver about the neck a n d wrists ; and the
custom o f wearing b o ots and black conical caps is peculia r to
fruit women-
.
In visiting any one above the rank o f a tradesm an it is n e ,

c e s s a r y to wear a s w ord and chapeau
; i f the family be in
m ourning the visiter must also wear black I f h e come not in
, .
a coach the servant will not consider him a e n tle m a n : and

,
were he to visit in boots he would c ommit a unpardonable ,
o ff ence unless he likewise wore spurs T he m aster o f the

, .
house follows the visitant when he comes in ; and precede s him

when he goes away .
Th e R c r eligi on is established in Portugal and

om a n C a th o li
,
is maintained with a great degree o f rigor and superstition A s .
a body the cler gy are ignorant and unenlightened and their

,
example is fa r fio m being sa fe to follo w A t the head o f the

,
r
.
establishment is a patriarch who is subordinate to the pope ,

T here are two archbishops a nd ten bishops ; parishes
.
, ,
4 1 8 convents and 1 50 nunneries T he secular clergy amount ,

, .
to the m onks to and the nuns to T he

whole number o f the clergy is or one to every fi fteen
o f the people .
I T A LY .
I ta ly, a s th e coun tr o th e a n c i en t R om a ns can never be co n

y f ,
te mp late d Wi th o ut a deep and l i vely in terest . T his is the c as e
276 U NIVER S AL T RAVELLE R .
IT A L Y .
in re ard to national scenery , and the monumental remai n s, by

w h ic it is ennobled and adorne d I n respect also to its i nh a b~ .
i t a n ts , it is natural to feel a similar interest, and to wish to know

wh a t th e y are , as com p ared with their a n cestors T he people .
who now dwell in this country are rather successors o f t h e ,
Romans than d escendants Originally many o f the inhabit .
ants o f Italy came from Greece and the east ; while a portion
o f them , it is believed , must come from the C eltic or G o m e r i an
tribes o f the north , who entered Italy from that quarter T he .
early Roman stock was constituted o f these mingled races .
T he present Italians are descend ed from di fferent natio n s .
which overran Italy at various periods though they a r e now ,

a m algam ated and form but one people Traces o f the Roman .
,
in the appeara n ce o f this people are probably nearly e ffaced ; ,
b u t they ha ve their p eculiarity as the closely blended race o f

‘
various ancestors They are nearly a ll Italians A fe w . .
Greeks live on the coast o f th e A d r ia ti c — there are some Ger

mans in Lomb a r d y Ven ice &c ; and Jews live scattered over
, ,
.
the country as they do in other countries But the whole o f the

,
.
latter classes or races do not exceed a fe w hundred thousand

inh abitants .
“In all the states o f Italy there are the u sual grades o f E u
r o p e a n nobil i ty ; and the i n dividuals a r e m ore n u m erous than
those o f the same class in any other country In so m e o f the .
states o f Italy all the sons o f the n obility a n d their sons bear
, ,
the original title O f course n umbers are indigent ; and m any

.
o f th e m are known to s olicit charity .
“T he Italians are distinguished fo r their anim ated and ex
‘
ress i ve counte n ances and t hey h ave very brillia n t eyes
pI bey are gen erally o f d ark comp lexio n s well formed and , .
,
active T h e women h ave b la c k o r auburn hair and most
.
'
o f the requisites fo r beauty A mong th e inhabitants are .
m any cripples a n d de formed : fo r the poor in Italy su ffer

m any h ar dships a n d privations ; but am ong the lowest class ,
and especially at N a ples the hum a n form is seen i n its great ,
est per fect ion and th e hal f—clad laz z a r o n i a r e the best m odels
,
fo r a sculptor .
. Th e h ig h er c l a s s es w ea r th e co m m o n E u r op ea n d r es s . At
Genoa however females o f all ranks wear very g race fully
, ,
the m a z z a o a kind o f shawl thrown over the head and shoul

r , ,
ders a n d fol d ed round the arms Lady Morgan testifies r e
,
.
specting the Genoese la d ies as she saw them in the streets in , ,
the church or the circle that they a ppear grace ful p equ a n t s
, , ,
e ,
and partic u larly hand some that they d es s r ich ly exhibiti n g -

r ,
their finely formed arm s and necks even in the morni ng to , ,
great advantage ; and seem nei ther unconscious n o r yet osten ,
t a ti o u s o f th e ir attractions
,
The c o s tli m e o f the higher class .
es ih the d i fferent cities most probably varies o n e from th e

other and it is said that the common people all over Italy have
,
th ei r local pe cu li a riti es o f dr es s T he fashio ns vary even in .

( T A LY .
from the a ge o f these distinguished writers to the present d ay .
F o r the space o f five centuries , the Italian authors h ave c on

t i n u e d to write in one uni form dialect S weetness is the char .
a c te r is tic feature o f the language ; and it appears as i f pur
p o s ely formed for the service o f unusual
I ta ly, a bov e a ll o th er s i s th e la n d o
f th e n e a r ts , includin g
both its ancient and mo dern days It is fi l ed with a r c h ite c tu .
ral monuments which are obj ects o f universal admiration and ,

with the richest specimens o f sculpture and painting It is the .
great school o f art to modern civilized nations The remains .
o f the glory o f its former days wil l better be d e s c r ib e d un d e r

'
th e head o f antiquiti es T he more modern state o f the arts .
will come under notice in this place .
Italy stands pre eminent above every country in the world

-
,
both as to the comp os i ti on a n d ex ecu ti on of m us i c but this de
light ful art in the hands o f modern Italians h as lost much o f
, ,
its strength and dignity and become almost exclusively devo ,
ted to the purpose o f licentiousness or at least o f e ffeminacy ,
.
T he people o f this country evince an ardent and universal

sensibility to the power o f music and th e Neapolitans p a r tic u , ,
lar ly are counted the m ost refined and correct j udges o f the
,
art It was not h owever till the beginning o f the seventeenth
.
cen tury that the opera or musical dram a was introduced into
,
Rome and V enice nor till the beginning o f the present century
,
at Naples T ill the time o f the elder S carlatti Naples was
.
,
less diligent in th e c ultiv atio n o f dramatic music than any
other Italian state S ince that time all the rest o f E urope has
,
been furnished with composers and performers from th at city ,

and the opera o f S a n Carlo at Naples is unrivalled even by the
S cala at Milan T he Italian opera h as been imported into all
.
the great towns in Europe and the singers are engaged at an ,

enormous sum .
In p a i n ti ng and s cu lp tur e Italy furnishes the most abundan t ,
oppo r tunities o f improvement to the artist or o f gratification ,

to the am ateur T he enormous collection o f statues i n s c r ip
.
,
tions busts and b as relie fs amassed together in this palace
’
-
, , , ,
”
by the c are o f the late popes s ays B arthelemy re ferri n g to , ,
“
the Rom an capitol alone exhausts admiration We live in ” .
,
an iron age as antiquaries ; it is in Italy alone that we must
m ake researches Figure to yoursel f vast apartments I will
.
,
not say ornamented but fi lle d —fi lle d even to thronging with , , ,
statues and a ll sorts o f remains ; a cabinet full o f busts o f
phi losophers another o f busts o f emperors ; gallery a fter a l
,
lery corridors staircases in which noth ing i; to be seen a t
, , , ,
g rand statues grand inscriptions ,

grand bas relie fs consula r ,
-
,
calendars ancient plans o f Rome in mosaic colossal E gyptian

, ,
stat ues in b a s alth us or black marble But why mention p ar

, ,
.
t ic ula r s ? We find here ancient Egypt ancient A thens a h , ,
i
N ew E d nburgh E ncy010p edia. Am e ric an edit on . i
U N IVER S A L TR A VEL L E R . 279
F I N ART S E .
ci n e t Ro me Italy is ful l o f s uch obj ects T he fr esco paint

.
” .
'
i n s especially o f Pis a Florence and Rome sti ll remain n u

g , , , ,
inj ur ed and al so the m aster pieces o f Bologna

,
B eside s -
.
im mense numbers o f statues r elie vo e s and oil painting in the , ,

-
,
c hurches and palaces t h ere are museums and galleries almost ,

in e very town O f these the most celebrated are the galleries
.
in the Vatic an in the villa o f A ld o b r a n din i ; in the villa o f

,
Borghese at Rome and those o f Florence and Milan Portrai t ,
.
p ainting alone is a branch which is rather in low estim atio n

i n Italy T he inhab itan ts in general re ard such p er fo r m a n
ces as engaging the admiration only o f t g
.
e person represented ,
or o f the painter himsel f ; and those who are able to pay the
best artists generally employ them on subj ects more univer
,
s ally interesting .
“Italy is peopled with ‘bein s o f mind ’ o ffsprings o f th e

,
genius o f M A ngelo Raphae Corr io T in to r e t C laude
C ar a v a gi o the C aracci Domenichino % arlo Dolci Guercino
.
, , ,
, , , ,
G uido S alvator Rosa and many other m asters T he num
, ,
.
ber o f good paintings is im mense ; collecti on a fter collection ,

and museum a ft er museum open upon the traveller and the , ,
walls o f hundreds o f edifices are covered with frescoes to ex ,
amine which is the work o f months T he frescoes contain
,
.
the best productions o f the art T he best living painters are .
C a m m u c i n a at Rome and Benven u to at Florence T he fo r

, .
mer is the greatest draughtsman in E urope but neither o f the m ,

h a ve the great requisites fo r excellence ” .
S culpture has at the present day attained to greater exce l

lence than painting T h o r w als d e n a D ane the son o f a n .
, ,
Icelander i s the greatest living sculpt or He h as an original
, .
,
but so mewhat erratic geni us his statues have much merit and ,
his relie fs h ave not been surp assed but in antiquity Had h e .
lived fi fty years be fore he would have secured a greater fame , ,

fo r it is perilous even fo r excellence in the art to be contem ,
p o r ar y with t h e works o f Canova who has drawn from mar ,

ble the mos t per fect form s that have been created since the
best age o f G recian sculpture ” .
Th e m o d er n bu i ld i n g s o f Italy are extremely numerous an d ,
generally beauti ful T he grand colonnade o f the Vatican is

.
one o f the most extensive and beauti ful specimens o f the

la r e d portico in the world ; and the galleries o f Vicenza a n d
Bologna o f the arcade style T he cathedrals o f Florence and
, .
Milan excel in magnitud e and those o f S t Ge orgio at Venice , .

,
and S ta Giustina at Padua are distin guished fo r internal beau
.
,
ty.
The churches and part icularly th e cathedrals present , ,
s tr i k i ng instances o f architectural elegance and each o f the m
.
,
c onta i ns a chapel o f the holy sacrament which is almost uni
,
ve r s a lly o f exquisite workm anship and splendid decora tion s .
O n e h a lf o f the Italian church es are imper fectly finished on th e

o uts i de i n c onsequence o f their founders wanting funds to
o
,
c omplete th i r plans and the buildings h aving thus been car
e ,
r i e d o n at d i fferent eriod T h lace al so are frequently
p s e p a s
.
.
,
ITA L Y .
In t h e ir ex te r io r , deficient in strict architectural beauty, b ut

'
well furnished wi t h marbles , statues , and paintings It has, .
howe v er , been said o f Italy , with truth , that no coun try poss ess
es so m any specimens both o f good and o f bad architecture
'
A mong the most no ted o f the modern structures may be men

ti o n e d — a t Rome , the church o f S t Peter , the first in ar c h ite c .
tu ral grandeur or beauty in the world , the ch u rches o f S t

'
C le m ent, S t Mart in , and others ; the p alaces o f the ponti ff in

.
the Quirin al , Lateran , and Vatic a n , the piazzas o f Raven

n a C olonna , Monte C ito r io — a t Naples, where the churches are
d eficient in arc hitectural t a ste , but s u p e r io r i n the riches which
they contain , th e c athedral o f S t P aul and o f S pirito S anto ; .
the theatre o f S a n Carlo , the most spacious and m agnificent

in the world— at Genoa , the pal aces o f Durazzo and Doria
a t V e n ic e , the church o f S t Marco ; the ducal palace , the
‘
bridge o f Rialto , and the arsenal— a t P adua , the town —hall , the
largest in E urope — at Vicenza the palaces della Ragione , and
d e l C a p ita rieo , and many others o f unusual m a gnifi c e n c e — a t
Florence, the cathedral , in ferior in m agnitude only to the
Vati can ; the mausoleum o f th e Medicean family ; the ponte
della Trinita, one o f the most beauti ful bridges in E urope *
.
S peaking o f S t P eter s c h u r c h a t Rome , Mr Forsyth says ,

’
. .
“the
,
cupola is glorious Vie w ed in its desi n its altit ude or

.
, ,
even its decorations viewed either a s a who e or a part it e n
, ,
chants the ey e it s atisfies the taste it expands the soul T he
, ,
.
very air seems to eat up all that i s harsh or colossal a n d leaves , ,

u s nothing but the sublime to feast on a s ublime as peculia r -
as the genius o f the immortal architect and comprehensible ,

only on the spot T he four surrounding cupolas though but
.
,
s atellites to t h e maj esty o f this might have crowned four ele ,
g ant churches No architecture ever

. surpassed in e ffect the
i nterior o f this pile when illuminated at E aster by a single cross
,
o f lam ps T he immediate focus o f glor — all the gradations
.
o f light and darkness — the fi n e or the a n t a s tic accidents o f

this chiaro scuro — the proj ection o f fixed or moving shadows
-
-
the sombre o f the deep perspectives— th e multitude kneeling
round the pope — the groups in the distant aisles — what a
worl d o f pictures fo r men o f art to copy or combine ! Wh at
fancy was ever so dull or discipli ned or worn as to resist the , ,
enthusiasm o f such a scene
U n ti l th e 1 5th throughout Italy were em
c en t ur y, th e r u i ns
ployed as quarries fo r modern buildings particularly fo r forti ,
fi c a tio ns without the slightest reverence or reflection ; but in

,
later times the inh a bitants on the contrary frequently con
, , ,
tri b ute large sums to preserve and repair the monuments o f

antiquity in their neighborhood T he most remarkable o f .
these remains still vis i b le in Rome are the Roman Forum , ,

the Coliseum the C elo ac a Maxima the Circus o f C aracall a
, ,
.
N ew Edinburgh E ncyc op ed a, Am er l i ican editi on.

282 U NIV E R S AL T R A VELLE R .
ITA L Y .
ch a r a ct er more opposite a n d inconsistent sketches h ave been

given than o f the modern inhabitants o f Italy It is utterly
, .
impossible to reconcile the varying testimonies o f d i fferent

travellers on the s ubject or to c ollect the leading features o f
,
one generally applicable description T he cause may proba~ .
b ly be found not merely in the di ff erent degrees o f judgment

, ,
candor and oppor tunity pos s essed by the writers ; but in the
,
real diversity o f ch aracter which e x ists in the country where ,

the inhabitants live under so many di fferent form s o f govern
ment and in such diversified circumstanc es o f cond itions
, .
T he o aths and curses fo r instance so frequent in the mouths

, ,
o f t h e v u lg a r
” “
s ays S w inburne change ent irely at the first
, ,
step one makes out o f the Roman into the Neapolitan territo ~
‘
_
ries T he Romans having the fear o f the inquisition be fore

.
’
their e y es vent their choler in obscure words or pious ej a c u

, ,
l a tio n s ; but the swe aring o f the Neapolitan who is under no ,
such restraint borders upon blasphemy Nay even in the
,
” .
,
d i fferent provinces o f the same state d iversities are observa~ ,
ble in the m anners and dispositions o f the inh abitants T he .
north C alabrese have a great deal o f Germ an solidity in their

disposition supposed to arise from the colonies transplanted
,
thither under the S u ab i a n princes while the most evident tra

ces o f G recian m anners and turn o f mind are found in the
o u th er n C alabrese and the Neapolitans ; and the P iedmontese
a pproach in like manner to t li e French character A mong t h .
e
Neapolitans the u pper ranks are ignorant licentious dissi

, , ,
p ated ,
a n d inveterately a d dicted to the most ruinous gallantry ;
the gen tlemen o f the church and the law tol e rably well edu ,
c a t e d ; the middle c l as s possessed o f considerable worth ; a n d
th e lower pop ulace goo d—humored open hearted passionate ,
-
, ,
b u t not m alic ious and so fond o f drollery that a j oke will fr e

, ,
q uently serve to check their most violent fits o f anger .
T he Tuscans are in every V iew the most worthy and i n

, ,
d u s t r i o u s part o f the nation T he wealth ier in d ivid u als ar e

. .
fond o f learning and fr iendly to strangers “ T he peasantry

,
are sober in the ir manners and even d istinguished above th e ,
other Italians in respect to their personal appearance .
T he Romans possess neither the worth o f the Tuscans nor ,
the good humored bu ff oonery o f the Neapolitans T he nobles

-
.
are polite to foreigners but the trades people and populace a r e

,
-
s avage and fraudulent retaining much o f the ancient h au gh ty

,
character ; and proud o f their descent from the conquerors o f
th e world T he higher ranks thr oughout Italy are extremely
.
hospitable so that a good letter o f recommendation m ay carry

,
a traveller from house to hous all over the country Perso n s e

.
o f rank among themselves usually pass in their journe y s from

,
one villa to another without m aking use o f the inn wh ich

,
s .
are consequently pos sessed o f very in ferior accommodations .
T he inhabitants in general are full o f civility to strangers ; and

are remarkable fo r honesty to one another so that even in ,
Cal abria th e hous e s ar e left enti rely O p e n d ur in g th e abs ence ,
UN IVER S A L T R A VELLER . 283
C H AR A CTE R —M O R A L S .
of the family on their daily avocations T he Italians in gen .

,
e ral are repre s ented as dir ty in their dres s cookery and per
, , ,
son s .
*
S ay s an A merican traveller respecting the character o f th e ,

“
Italians the country is to o muc h impoverished to perm i t the
,
richest to be very ho s pitable From the peculiarity o f some .
o f their customs from their ro ote d attachment to the Ro m is h

,
-
—
religion the pro ud recollectio ns o f past glo ry and the ex a s
—
produced by recent inju y and oppress i on v i s i ters
o
p er a t i o n r ,
from several nations are apt to meet with coldness and reserve .
T he A ustrians are abhorred fo r their tyrannical e xaction

and fo r the sordid parsimony which ho ards up th e fruits 0
their rapacity T he Fre nch are d isliked by m any fo r their ri
.
valry and vani ty an d fo r m ani fold evils too fresh to be ,
gotten T he E nglish by their religion their gravity the

.
, ,
s everity o f their O pinions upon certain points and the di ffer ,
ence in the whole cast o f their hab its and manners have still ,
les s a ffini ty with the Italians A ny o f these who are pro perly .
introduced may be well received though p erhaps with less ,

c ordiality than in any other nation in E urope T he A meri .
c an except in the Neapolitan kingdom finds predilecti on ln

, ,
stead o f prejudice but yet he is peculiarly circumstanced We ,
.
h ave scarcely any connexion with their people T hat which .
e x ists h as ari sen almost entirely out o f a very inconsiderable

trade and is c o nfi n ed to a fe w commercial ports We h ave
,
.
no p r iv ile ge d o r d er s among us who can pro cure us admission

'
into the best society here ; and thou h fro m accidental inti
m acies or from letters obtained a b r o a
,
individuals may som e
times b e enabled to associate with the nobility and gentry yet ,
I never heard o f many o f our countrymen who had enj oyed this
advantage .
The Italians with the exception o f some o f the lowest walks

,
o f society are a kind hearted a n d a ffectionate people
,
-
We .
d iscover this in their general air and m anner in the little cour ,
te s ie s o f li fe in the endearing nature o f their salutations to
,
each other and in the warm attachment arising very o ften
,
out o f incidental and transient intimacies A friend in meet .
in
g another addresses him wit h,
ca r o c a r o a term appro , ,
p r i a t e d among us to those alone who stand in the te nderest

relations to us I f he is visiting a villa and finds at the gate
.
,
the porter s wi fe or asks a question o f any woman in the streets
’
, ,
he al w ays pre faces it with sp os a s p os a an appe llation which , ,
is not pe culiarly significant in itsel f; but which impresses
a stranger pleasantly by the so ft ness o f the sound and the ,
familiar regard with which it is spoken I f he introduces y o u .
t o his family or friends it is with such extravagant expres ,

sions o f kindness as would make you uneas were y o u not
soon p u t at ease by as kind a reception y
,
f b e parts with .
y o u fo r a time he kisses you on both cheeks wi th many a n

, ,
0
N ew E dinbur gh E ncyc op edia. Amer l i
can edition.
29 ! U NIVER S A L T R A VELLER .
a d di o ; or
he re c eives y o u a fter any absence there is th e
if ,
s ame regard with th e most hearty greetings Eve n
t o k en o f ,
, .
a t a co ffee house where you are well known on your retur n

-
,
fro m a j ourney the servants will accos t you with a smile a n d ,
”
b en arr i va to .
“How
.
much o f all this is fe lt it is diffi cult to say b ut it i s , ,

a ccompanied by such an appearance o f openness and s in c er
ity as induced me to ive them credit for a good degree o f i t
, ,
and to belie ve them a ind and amia b le people
“T h is i s likewise shown in their general urb anity to ward s
.
s tran er s a nd in the m obliging o ffi ces whic h they are di s

,
a ny
po se to ren d er to them l hey d o not as was be fore remarked .
, ,
indulg e in an expensive hospitality T hey are sparing o f their
.
.
m oney but not o f their time and tr ouble ”

,
.
“The state o f m or a ls from a ll that I could learn is deplora

, ,
ble T he license d gallan try in the married state among th e
.
Upper classes furnishes a fear ful conj ecture o f their corruption

,
in other points fo r how can the s o cial or domestic virtues b e
cherished where the practice o f the highest bring s no hono r
, ,
n o r the violation o f it any re p roach Home h a s not our tie s . .
It is not so much respected and endeared and accordi n gly ,

there never was perhaps any people wh o lived so much away
from it The promenades the c af é s the r es t a u r a n ts and all
.
, , ,
the public places are filled with them ” .
,
“T he people o f the lo w er c la s s es appeared to me almost uni
formly d eceit ful and disho n est A n exception is a prodigy .
-
.
T he perso ns with whom a traveller has most to deal are not ,

indee d a fair specimen o f the morals o f any country But we .
were occasionally brou ht into contact with others not com

prehended under this e s c r ip tio n and there seemed to be a ,
settled design among all to impose on the ignorant and to c ir ,
c u m v e n t the cunning and in formed Perpetual vigilance and .
the nicest precautions are the only secur ity against perpetual ,
p lunder A nd sometimes
. in resisting the fraudulent exactness
o f the more vulgar our firmness is nearly subd ued by thei r ,
fi er c en e s s brutality and clamor ” .
, ,
“Much o f this inconvenience which is the greatest drawback
,
on our pleasure in this delightful country may be avoided by ,

settling the price o f every thing however trifling be forehand , , ,
and by acting in all cases when you are satisfied that you are ,
right with determination and at the same time with modera
, ,
”
tion and prudence .
T he Italians h ave less gayety and vivacity th an the Fr ench ,

but more good nature more uni form cheer fulness and greater , ,
equanimity o f tem p er T hey will become earnest and warm .
in conversation and so r a pid voci ferous and varied in the i n

, , ,
to n a ti o n s o f their voice that those who are unacquainted with ,

them would imagine th at a storm was gathering when perh aps ,
no other emotion is felt than a lively interest in the subject uh
der discussion But they do not like the latter u nder real
.
, ,
266 U N I VER S AL T R A VELL E R .
e pigram and thus p asquinade is but the o ffspring o f hypocr i sy ,

th e only resource o f wits who are obliged to be grave on so ,
m a ny a b s u r d ities in religion and r e spe ctful to s o many up ,
s tarts in purple .
T he R om an l a d i es ar e more indebte d to nature than to

man T heir gener al sty le o f beauty is lar ge like the Jun o ;
.
‘
,
a n d th eir forms th ough luxuriant are so per fect in proportio n
, , ,
that a critic is dr iven to their feet be fore he can find a de fect .
A nimation o f feature d ignity o f gestur e a language a ll music

, , ,
quicknes s o f rem ark a fi n e tinge o f r eli gion— every fe male a t
,
traction is their s except p erhaps the best; But alas ! c a n
,
m od esty be expec ted i h a state where celibac y sits enthroned ,
and fills eve r y po st o f authority or du s tr u c tio n ? Must n ot
the interest the anim al wants o f th e governors discourage
,
fideli ty in th e sex ? Must not a go vernmen t o f priests fro m ,
necessi ty form a nati on o f l ibertines
,
W b m e n thus born fo r seduction excel in all th e syren a o ,
c o m p li s h m e n t s music dancing and s o metimes poetry ; b ut
, , ,
the y h ave lost those se v erer graces a n d that literate character
which once astonished Europe T he time is past when Italia n .
ladies w e r e the doctoral cap fille d the faculty chairs preach ,

-
,
ed di ssected sp o ke Latin wrote Gr eek and plunged in to th e
, , , ,
depths o f scienc e T he tim e is pas t whe n the fir st women in
.
Italy seemed to live fo r t h e histor ia n .
N o class in th e p a pal s t ate c an be more import ant than th e »
clergy Th ese in general are learned at least literary men ;

.
, ,
»
p retty correct in exteriors and guarded in th e ir debauchery , .
From the len h and rigor o f their educati o n most o f the m ,

sme ll o f the co lege or c onvent When dazzled with the splen .
dor o f the Roman clergy through all their gradation o f color , ,
gray bl ack purple scarlet U p to the sovereign white ; whe n

, , , ,
we have a d mired their pa laces their liveries their carriage s , ,

wheeled out in rows to be admired ; let us then reverse th e
m edal a n d view the exhaustion which this gross plethory o f
“
,
clerical wealth leaves below it Let us survey a ll the for ms .
o f misery the si ckness t h e sores

,
t h e de for mity t h e hun er
, , ,
which in fest the streets where every beggar is distinguis e ,
by his own attitud e tone and vari e ty o f the pathetic while ali
, , ,
together present a strange clim ax of wretched ne s s .
In the m o rning c omes a Marche sa t o y o ur lodgings recoun ts ,
fortun e s o f her n o ble house its rank its loyalty its disa s , , ,
“
ters its fall a nd then r elie ves your most illustrious E x c ellezb
, ,
cy
” from e mbarr a s s m ent by begging one or two pauls An .
,
old abate steals on yo u r evenin walk and twitching you with ,
a ff ected secrecy whispers th a t e i s starving On the dirty
,
.
paveme nt you see Poveri Vergogno si kne eling s ilentl y in

m asks In the c o ffee h ouses stan d a m ore un for tunate clas s
.
-
,
w h o watch the waiter s motions to dart on your change

’
In .
th e courts o f palaces you meet wretches gnawing the r a w ,
r o ots gleaned from the dunghill and at night you will som e _ ,
tune s find at y our ga teway a p oor b oy sle ep in g c lo se to h is

U NIVE R S A L T RAVELLE R . 287
C H A R A C TE R— MAN U FA C TU R E S .
d o g fo r mutual w a rmth S uc h is th e m etr opolis o f p a p al

.
C hristianity on earth
“T he Rom ans gener a lly are the le ast cheer ful o f a ll the
, ,
c ople o f Italy though at the Carnival their gayety is withou t
go un ds It would seem fro m the ir dispositions that to live
.
,
, ,
among the wrecks o f former greatness has a d epressing e ffect ,
u p o n th eir s pirits O n the many holydays t hat abound in the
.
c apital o f the C atholic c hurch the common people a r e seen ,

listlessly s tanding or s auntering about the s tree ts with no out
ward sign o f cheer fulness ; whereas at holyd ays or on all d ays ,
a t Florence and N aples th e in h h b ita n ts s ee m to be a nimated
,
by some j oyo us impulse But no e x tremes a re more distant .
t h an the ch aracter o f Rome and Naples But the Rom ans .
h ave much to depress them bes ides the ruins o f former great ,
n ess which indeed make no part o f their regrets
,
T hey are .
o ppressed pillaged b ound in ignorance and steeped in pov

, , ,
e r ty
. T hey li ve in a g loom y c ity s urround ed by a desert , ,
a nd th e m alaria invades their very dwellings T here is o pen .
to them no e n n o bl in pursuit ; to ta lent there is neithe r excite

ment nor reward here are ne ither th e amusements o f the
.
French nor the d omestic li fe o f the E nglish ; and if the R 0

,
m an is not ch ee r ful by tempe rament h e has little to make him ,
s o in his circumstances
” .
T he inhabitants o f the Nea p olitan territo ry preserve th e

l evity and cheer fulness o f their G re ek ancestors ; and the
h ave a vehemence o f character that seems suited to their v o g
c ani o s oil A ll their pursuits whether o f pleasure devoti on
.
, , ,
o r gain inspire them fo r the moment with the ardor o f a ruling
,
passion T he A rnauts o f C alabria are a fin e race o f me
.
h ardy and brave but les s cheer ful than their country men o
,
the plains .
’
T h e m a n uf a c tu r es are ne ither numerous n o r exten

f
o I ta ly
sive when compared wi th the fertility o f the s oil and a d v a n ta
,
ge on s situ ation of th e country S ilk wool and cotton are the .

, ,
principal articles which occupy its m anu facturing population ;
but a grea ter pr e portion o f these commodities a r e exported
in the raw state than wrought up at home T he former m ay
, .
be considered as the staple o f Italy and m any o f its poor find ,

regular employment in the care o f the silkworm and the cul ,
ture o f the mulberry tree on which it feed s In the Neapolitan .
territory e x cise duties are extremely he avy on th e silk manu

facture E very mulberry tree p ays a tax o f t wo c a li m (about
.
r
‘
1 6 cents ) per ann um A s soon as the silk i s drawn while the

.
,
a rt i cle is stil l wet and heavy forty t wo grano (about 3 3 -
,
cen ts ) are exacted fo r every pound and even the re fuse and ,
u nprofitable pod s are forced to pay one grano nearly o n e
(
cent) per pound Yet with all these exactions and oppress
.
to ns, about pounds weight are annually p roduced in

F or s yt h ’
s R emarks on I taly .
28 8 UN IVER S AL T RAVELL ER .
IT A LY .
the kingd om o f Naples o f wh ic h one hal f is sup p osed to b e ,
worked at home and the other h al f exported in the r a w state

, .
.
T he best silks in the whole Italian district and perhaps in t h e ,

w orld are said to be those o f M o ndovi Dronero and G e vag
, , ,
lio near C oni and o f the little tract o f F os s o m b r o n a in t h e
, ,
dutchy o f U rbino .
,
Wo ol is exported chiefly in the raw m aterial ; and the prov

i nc e s o f Italy p articularly those o f the south with every
, ,
advantage fo r the m anu facture o f broadcl o ths depend almo s t ,
entirely on the foreign market fo r most w o ollen stu ffs For .
m erly the woollen manu fa ct ures o f Padua were in a very

,
flourishing state and its cloths are still e s teemed the best in
Italy Manu factures o f woollen have in later years been
.
est a blished at Rome ; and that named S t Michael is famous .
fo r its fine cl o ths but are all underso l d by the E nglish arti
,
cles T he cotton also is ex ported in great quantities ; but in
.
several provinces especially that o f Otranto i s manu factured , ,
into a variety o f valua b le commodities I n G a llip p o li muslin s .

,
o f all kinds and cott o n stockings are made in considerabl e
,
,
quantities ; and at Nar d o and G a lat o n a in its vicinity a r e , ,
wro u ght those fam ous cotton coverlets w hich are exported to
all parts o f the world and bring in a considerable revenue to ,
the crown T aranto is celebrated fo r the extraordinary beau
.
ty and fineness o f the cotton stockings which are m ade by its

i nha b itants some o f whi c h cos t on the spot not les s than a
,
guinea a pair .
A t Teramo is a m anu facture o f pottery ware remarkably ,

hard and fine fo r which there is a considera b le demand i n
,
Ge rm any by the way o f Trie s te and the porcelain made at
N aple s and Mi lan m ay v ie with any in the world a s to ele ,
gan c e o f form and beauty o f design T he mosaic m an u factory
,
.
a t R o m e and that o f tortoise s h ell and m usical strings at N a

,
ples may a ls o b e no ticed as both o f th e m are d is tin gm s h e d for
, ,
their superiority Na p le s excels als o in works o f embroidery
.
,
in con fection s and liqueurs T he velvets and damasks o f .
Genoa and Venice still preserve their ancient r e p uta tio n n nd ,

rich silk stu ffs are manu factured to a c o n siderable extent ih
-
.
Lucca Florence and Milan

, ,
.
*
Th e es t a bli s h ed f and worship pre

C a th ol i c or R om i s h a i th ,
vail s exclusively over all Italy ; and n owhere is its authority

and jurisd iction m o re complete Over thi s church o f Italy the .
Pope presides as primate w ith the same prerogative s whic h ,

accompany that title and station in other countries But b e .
sides the peculiar o ffice which merely expresses his relation

to the Italian ecclesiastical c o n s it uti o n he is al s o th e chie f
. ,
pastor o f the C atholic church over the whole world ; and thu s
pos sesses in the o pinion o f th at church a spiritual suprema
, ,
cy and i n fluence in every country wh e re any port ion o f it ex
4' N ew i
Ed nburgh Enc yclon l ia.
290 UN IVER S A L T RAVELL E R .
th e Pope presides in person ; but less fo r the purpose o f dis

c u ssing than witnessing the ratification o f measures already
a dopted in the cabinet o f the P o n ti fi Their principal pre ‘
r ogative is exe r ci s ed in the conclave where they are confined ,

it h in the V a ti c an palace till they agree i n the election o f a
gope , ,
A ll the gr eat cities and s o me even o f a secondary rate

, ,
h ave a r ch bi s h op s while al m ost every town especially i f it be ,
o f ancient name is the see o f a bisho p ; a circumstance which
,
confirms the fact that primitive bishop s were more like the
first ministers o f a parish than a diocesan Besides the c a .
l
th e d r als there are several collegiate churches which hav e

, ,
t heir deans and chapters Every bisho p has his diocesan col
.
lege fo r the purpose only o f ecclesiasti cal education ; in thi s

s eminary under his own inspection with the assistance o f a
, ,
few o f h is more eminent clergy the candidates fo r orders in ,
‘
the d io c e s s must attend three years in a course o f prepara

tion fo r their cleric a l functions — which course consists in
hearin g lectures on the scriptures and the scholastic syst em s ,
o f ethics and theology
T he ) a r och i a l cler g y are numerous ; pluralities are ne v er
.
a ll owe d ; and residence is strictly en fo rced T hese regular .
c lergy ar e descri b ed as generally e x emplary and active in th e

dischar ge o f their duti e s ; but though their number h as been
c onside r ably diminish e d by the alienation o f church property
durin g the French domi n ation they are a cknowledged to be ,
s till t o o n umerous especially the lower orders o f them
,
.
T he i r r egu la r cler g y so called from taking u pon themselves

,
certain rules and statute s n o t connected with the clerical pro

fes s io n are still more nu m erous and exhibit a great varie t o f
T hey m ay be divi ded int o two great clas ses yiz
, ,
c ostumes .
,
, .
m o n ks and f r i a r s who are bo und by the three vows o f poverty

, ,
chastity and obedience but who live under very di fferent r e
'
T he m onks under various appellations follow ag

, ,
ula ti o n s .
, ,
most univers ally the rule o f S t Benedi c t which is rather a .
,
treatise o f morals than a set o f statutes T o the monks may be
,
.
added the canons regular who take upon them s elves the li fe ,
and engagement o f a convent while they bear the d ress and ,
discharge the duties o f ordinary prebendaries T hese are all .
supported by a re gular settled income which contr ibutes much ,

to their gen er al r es p ec t ab ilit and distinguishes them fro m
the mendicants or friars his second class o f irregular
.
clergy subsist upon alms and donations and constitute a mul ,

titu d in o u s and various body T hey h ave m any di fferent sub .
divisions dresses and O bservances ; but th e most prevalent

, ,
a r e the Franciscans Dominicans Carmelites and A ugustines
, , ,
.
T hey were all intended to act as assistants tothe clergy in their

p arochial duties ; but the auxiliaries h ave become the m ost
n umerous and h ave encr o ached upon the prero gatives o f th e
,
main b ody *
.
N w Edi bu gh E y l p die n r nc c o e a.
U NIVER S AL T RAVELLER . 29 1 '
R EM AR K A B L E P L A C E S .
A lm os t ever y cons i d er a b l e la c e in
Italy is marked by som e
g
c ircu m sta nce in its nat ural i a tur e s ,
or by some achievement
or event in its history which connects it in the minds o f scho l ,
a rs with the most deli ht ful associations A mong these 10
g .
c a liti es are the fo llo w m g which we group together with out

, ,
a n y parti cular order :
Rome built on seven hills was the great ci ty o f Italy and
, ,
the Romans Here was the beginning o f this celebrate d peo
.
ple T he city was sm all and m e an at first bu t in the cours e

.
o f ages be came magnificent beyond co nc eption and the em

,
,
o r i um o f th e civilized world A ndes near Mantua was the
pir th p lac e o f Virgil ; Comum that o f the younger Pliny ; V e
.
.
, ,
-
, ,
rona o f C atullus ; and Pata vium o f Livy R avenn a was the

, ,
.
reside nce o f the e m perors o f th e west when driven from Rome .
T he river P 0 is famous fo r the d eath o f Ph aeton who as the , ,

poets mention was thrown down into it by the thunderb olts
,
o f Jupiter .
Pad usa one o f the mouths o ft he P 0 w as s a id to abo u nd in

, ,
swans Rubicon was a mountain torrent which it w a s fo r
.
bidden to pass with an armed force with dread ful imprecations ,

.
T he inh abitants of E truria were famous fo r their skill in augu

r y early civilization and resolution and were conquere d by
, , ,
the Rom ans only a fter much bloodshed C ir c e ii w as th e r es .
idence o f the fabled enchan tress C irce Tusculu m was th e ,

.
Villa o f C icero C apua was celebra ted fo r its wealth vo lup tu

.
,
o u s n e ss and so ft clim ate

,
Near the prom o ntory o f Cuma was .
th e residence o f the S ybil A t Nola east o f Naples bells wer e .

, ,
first invented T h e e ruption o f Vesuvi u s A D 79 o ve rwhelm ~
. . .
e d the cit ies o f Pom p e i i H erc ul aneum and S ta b i m and d e ,

, ,
s troyed the li fe o f Pliny .
T h e city o f A rpi was founded by Diomedes Venusia w a s .
th e birthplace o f Horace T he country o f A pulia was cele .
bra i ed fo r its woo l B r un d us iu m w as the port fo r passing

.
from Italy to Greece R u diae wa s th e birthplace o f E nnius

. .
T arentum was fo unded by the L a ce d mm o n ia ns ; P aestum in ,
Lu c ania was famous fo r its roses On the coast was Me

,
.
ta p o n t um the school o f Pythagoras T h u r iu m w as also c alled

,
.
S ybaris fro m the e ffe m i n a cy o f its inhabitants

,
Petili a w as .
built by Ph iloctetes a fter the Troj an war ,

.
S icily was famous in antiquity fo r the birth o f Ceres the ,

r ape o f Proserpine the giant E nce ladus mount Etna and the
, , ,
Cyclops with the whirlpool Charybdis opposite to S cylla on

, ,
the Italian c oast obj ects o f terror to m ariners S ic il was
,
.
the storehouse o f Italy Mount E ryx was celebrated or its .

~
t emple o f Venus T he plains o f E nna where Proserpine

.
,
was carried away by Pluto abounded in honey Lipara ‘
,
.
was famous fo r its fruit ; its raisins are still in high repute .
V ulcan had forges here S ardinia was c alled by the Greek s .
I c h n us a from its resemblance to th e print o f a foot

, It w as .
famous fo r wormwood and bitter herbs and its air w as uh

wh o les o me Corsic a w a s cele b r ated fo r its b ox and y e wtr ees
,
.
- .
U N IV E R S A L T R A VELL ER .
ca nnon .
U rc in ium , founded
by a son o f Aj ax i s no w A j accio and cel , ,
'
o
e b r a te d in modern ti mes as the birthp lac e o f Napol eon B o

n ap ar te .
8 . GR E EC E .
it is thought a s tr i ki ng r es em b la n ce
T h e m od er n G r eeks b ea r , ,
t o the descriptions which ha ve be en t r ansmitted o f the ancient
inhab itants o f th e cou ntr y in th e ir bo dily appearan ce dres s , , ,
di et and tempers T he re is a na tio n al likeness o bservabl e
,
.
a m ong them all but the islanders are o f a darker complexion

, ,
and a stronger m ake than those o f the m ain land T heir cou n~ .
t e n a n c e s are su c h as may be supposed to have served fo r

m odels t o their a n cient s culp tors ; and the you n g men parti e
ul a r ly a re distinguished by a degree o f beaut which would be
considered a s to o e ff e m inate among th os e 0 the same age in
m ore norther n c limates T heir eyes are large a n d dark .
,
t heir eyebrow s arched th eir complexion s brown but clear , , ,
and th eir cheeks and li p s tinged with a bright vermilion color .
T heir faces are a regul ar oval a n d their featu res per fectly ,
proport ioned e x cept that their ears are rather larger than
,
u sual T heir hair is dark and l o ng but sh aved o ff in the fore
.
,
p art o f th e c r ow n a n d s ides o f the face Beard s a r e wor n .
only by the clergy and persons o f authori ty but all o f them ,

w ar thin long b l a c k m usta c he s o n the r up p ei lip T hei r
e , ,
i f ; .
necks are long but broad and w ell set their c h e sts wide and
, , ,
open their shoulders strong but their waists rather slender
, , ,
and their legs large but well m ade Th eir stature is abov e .
t h e middle size a n d th e i r form m u s c ui a r and round but n o t

, ,
c orpulent T he women ar e in feri o r to the m en both in fac e
.
,
a nd fi gure ; and though they h ave t h e sa m e kind o f features ,
yet their eyes are languid and their complexi ons p ale thei r ,
w hole persons loose and flaccid their stature rather low a n d , ,
t heir forms as they advance in li fe fa t and unwieldy
,
T hose ,
.
o f th e bett er cl as s are very care fu l to impr ove their beauty b y

p aints a n d wash e s ; but they o ften lay on their colo rin g s ub
s tances to a very unnat ural degree .
m s i s various ly repre sent

f
T h e ch ar a ct er od er n G r eek o th e
ed but the greater number o f travellers c o ncur i n the princi
p al feature s o f the foll owing po r trait T heir manners are .
v ery enga gi ng, but ha v e rather too much the appearance o f

obsequiou sness and insincerity T hey are extremely courteous .
t owards in feriors and even servants and m ake very little dis
, ,
ti nction in their behavior to each other on account o f rank .
T h e ri ch are versatile and intriguing ; the lower classes full of

izné r r iin e n t doin g n othing at certain seasons but pipe a n d
'
, ,
z
nce I h er e i s still abundanc e o f native g enius amon g
.
da r
men ; b ut in the sub sta n tial par ts o f c h a racter t h ey are 9 de

.
'
f»
.
294 BN IV E R S A L T RAVELL E R .
G R EE C E .
wr a p p e d once rou nd the b ody restingloosely on the h i ps ,

,
, an d
fa ste ne d b e fo r e w ith a lar ge plat or tied with a s p r e a di n
' e
,
kn o t T he dress o f the
. ric h er fe m 116 3 is loa d ed with gold an
silver trimmin gs b r ac ele ts o f p r e c o us stones an d strings o f
,
.
,
gol d coi ns r o un d the ir neck s T he y oung women have their .
hair hanging down the back loose or platted c o m b e d over th e , ,

fo rehead and the sides o f the cheeks and a li ttle red cap with , ,
a gold tas s el s tudd e d with e q uin s on the one side o f th e
'
,
crown When th ey g o a h r o a they are m u ffl ed up in a wra n
.
ping cloak with a long veil but in their private apartments

‘
-
, ,
they h ave t h eir feet naked and their b odies thinly clothed a s "
, ,
the tem p e ratur e o f the weath er m ay admit T h eir toe nail s .
-
and fi n ge r tops are staine d o f a ros y c o lor and their eye~

-
,
lashes with black No change as to fashion takes place in .
their dres s but their ha bits are estee m ed entirely in propor

,
tion to the price which they cost T h e n ost universal part o f . ,
Grecian dress w h ich is al s o w o r n by all th e in h abitants o f th e

,
Levant Mahom etan s, o r C hristia ns m ales o r fe m ales a n d
, , ,
t h e s al e o f w hi c h for ms a principal article o f Grecian com
~
merce i s th e anc ient Pelasgi c bo n net sh aped like a scalp
, , ,
which th e natives of G reece are said to h ave worn ever sinc e
they were known as a people Th e Greeks wear it simply a s .
a h at ; th e Turks surround it with a turb an ; and the women

adorn it with a h andkerc hie f tasse ls and fringes , ,
.
T h e di et o even in the higher ranks o f

f th e m od er n G r eeks ,
s ociety is very poor and com ortles s
,
Fow ls newly killed f .
and there fore t o u gh though boiled down to rags heaped to , ,

gether in a large plate form a principal dish at dinner T h e ,
.
table is a low sto o l and the guests are seated round it o n ,

c u shi o ns A l o n g co ar s e narrow to wel is s p read over th e
.
, , ,
kn e es o f the p arty at table ; and the master o f the ho u se strip ,
ping his arms bare by turning up the sleeves o f his tunic , ,
s er v e s o u t the meat and soup tearing the poultry and butcher
‘
,
meat into pieces with his fin ge r s which t h e guests eat in th e ,
.
s a m e sty le I f knives and spo o ns are u se d they are neve r

.
,
changed and o n e dish o nly i s placed o n the table at the sam e

,
t ime .Brandy i s h a nded t o the c ompany be fore they sit down

to tab l e an d a single gl ass o f wine is presented to each along
,
with the dessert D ur ing the ti m e o f di nner th e room is filled
.
with a multitude o f vi s iters meaner dependants and even , ,
s l av e s ~w h o do not partake o f the repast but sit and c o nvers e

, ,
together behind th e party at table ; and a fte r dinner an itin er
ant s on gst er p us he s through th e cr o wd to a conspic uou s plac e
,
in th e apartment and accompanie s w ith h is ly r e so me miser

'
'
,
able recitative suited to the oc casion or s o m e c o m m o n love
, ,
’
di tty repeated again and again with little melody or expre s

, ,
s ion W h en the meal is concluded a m aid servant sweep s -

.
,
th e c arp e t ; and the master and mistres s o f the house seati ng ,
th e mselv es at the up p er end o f the divan or couch the rest o f ,
th e com p any a r e m arsh a lled on e ith er side in two lin e s ao ,

UN IVER S AL T RAVE LLER . 29 5
D AN CI NG— M U S IC .
c ording to the rules o f precedence Wh en all are thus seate d .
cross legged a little wter basin is placed b fore each person

-
,
e
who has partaken o the meal and all wash their hands and ,
mouth with a lather o f soap ; the s ame having been do n e
als o be fore eating T obacco pipes are then brought in an d
.
,
female visitants arriving the mistress o f the house retires with ,
the women w h o are present to receive these new guests in ,
another apartment .
D a n ci n g is lear ned from

a u n i ver s a l a eco m li s h m en t, and is
one another in a style which elegance nor i s p l a y s neither
liveliness and which chiefly consists in a solemn poisin g o f
,
the body on one foot then on the other accompanied with , ,
various elevations and depressions o f the arms But not .
,
withstanding their want (i f educat ion most o f them are a o ,
q u a in te d with a number o f songs or recitations accomp ani ed ,

with tales which are taken up and continued apparently with
, ,
out end by di fferent i ndividuals o f the party fo r hours t o geth
,
er VVh e n e ver they h ave an opportunity o f making farther at
.
t a in m e n t s they discover great q u i c k n e s s o f understanding

, ,
and readily acquire the mo dern lan guages an d the elements ,

o f general literature T heir ch aracter is described as amiable
.
,
and they mak e assiduous housewives and tender mothers .
T he dances o f the young women particularly tho se called

~
,
R omaica consist in slow movements in which they hold by
, ,
each other s handkerchie fs while one o f them as a leader
’
, , ,
s ets the step and the time In their mixed dances a m ale and .
,
female are alternately linked together holding their h a n dke r ,
chie fs high over their h eads while the leader dances through ,
them ; and various figures are per formed as well a s s in gle ,
hornpipes S ingle per formers among the men exhibit fr e
.
q uently a rapid fanta stic step whic h is considered as the a n ,

cient pyrrhic dance T o such amusements the natives are .
greatly devoted ; and am i dst all their poverty and o p p r e s

” “
sion says S andys they will dance whilst their legs will
, ,
b ear them a n d sing till they grow h oarse ” T here is an a n
, .
cient dance much in request per formed by b oys or by girls in

, , ,
the harems fo r the entertainment o f the Turks and which i s
, ,
wholly o f a lascivious tendency Nay in most parts o f mod .
,
ern Greece these indecent attitu des which are esteemed as the
, ,
highest a c c o m p li s h m e n t c f the art are practised by the most ,
discreet females without any appearance o f depraved feelings
,
on their par t .
c is plaintive but very mono tonous ; and it

T h e G r eek m us i ,
1 8 doubt ul whether most o f their airs m ay not b e o f modern
f
o ri gin T hey sing through the nose and in a c on fused m an
.
,
ner men and w o men all j oining together O f m any t une s
, .
b orrowed from the French and Italian it is said they never

~
,
g o beyond the first p art T hey have an admirable kyr i e el

. ei
s on s ays C hateaubriand It is b ut o n e n o te kep t up b y d if ‘ '
,
.
,
2 06 U N IVER S A L T R A V ELLER .
GR EE E C .
fer o nt voices , some b ass and some treble , executing a nda nt e

a n d m ez z o r ace, the octave , the fi fth , a n d the third
. T he sol .
e m u and m aj estic e ffect o f this kyr i e is surprising It is .
doubtless a relic o f the ancient singing o f the primitive church .
T he fiddle and lyre , or three stringed guitar, are the usual ih

-
s tr u m e n ts upon which most o f the young men , and p a r tic u

la r ly the s ailors , are able to per form Pan s pipe , and a kind
’
.
o f ba pipe , are also met with in the Levant Modern travel

g .
lers g i ve a very u n favorable account o f the general strain o f

mus ic in Greece Dr C larke , p articularly, repre sents it as
-
.
in ferior to that o f any other E uropean nation , except the very

l o w e s t i n point o f civilization and refineme nt “ T he tone o f .
” “
the voc al part, he s ays o f a certain per form er , resembled
_
rather the howli n g o f dogs through the night, than any sound
W t h might be c alled musical A nd this was the impression
.
m ade upon us everywhere by the nat ional music o f the mod

ern Greeks , that if a s cale were formed fo r comparing it with
t h e state o f music in other E uropean nations , it wo u ld fall b e
low every other , excepting only that o f the Laplanders , to
”
which nevertheles s it bears some resemblance
, ,
.
Th er e i s con s i d er a bl e r es em b l a n c e i n t h e d octr i n es a nd g en e
and those
r a l f o r m of th e G r eek c h u r ch , the church o f
of
Rome In the nu ber the s acraments the invocation o f
. m of ,
s aints ,
th e b e l ithe r al
e f o f e p r practise auricular
es e n c e ,
t h e ‘
o f
con ession the o ering
f ,
ff masses
o f the dead the division
fo r ,
of the cler y into regular and secular the spiritual jurisdiction

,
bis ops and their o cials the distinction ranks and
,
of th e ffi of
,
o ces among the ecclesiastics there is
ffi ,
di fference
v e r y li tt le
’
between the c hurches Greece and Rome

of .
T he rites the Greek church are in themselves very ab

of
surd and are per formed with very little solemnity T here
,
.
are prayers and portions o f scripture histories o f the saints , ,
hymns and forms fo r di ff erent festivals but the service con

,
sists principally in singing without musical instruments In the .
celebration o f the m ass the chie f part o f the worship consists

,
in crossing and repeating a thousand times in a combined ,
s ong the words

“ ”
Lord have m ercy u pon m e Pictures are .
, , ,
admitted into the churches ; and great attention paid to the
form and color o f the clerical vestments T heir festi v als are .
very numerous which the people are strictly enj oine d to o b

,
serve : and as most o f them are celebrated by dancing and
music ; they are the great delight o f the frivolous nati ves T he .
s acrament o f the eucharist is administered to new born in fants

-
,
and that o f extreme u nction is not c onfined to the dying but ,
is given to devout persons upon the slightest mala d y and even ,
to those who are in full health by way o f anticipation T h e

,
.
l aity are devoutly attache d to a ll the ceremonies and o r di n a n

.
ces o f their church which are numerous and severe Wed

,
.
n es d a y s and Fridays are perpetual days o f fasting ; and som e
of the principal ast

f s continue forty days ; so that there a re
29 8 NIV E R S A L T R A VELL E R
U
E U R OP E AN T U R K E Y .
h eads ch anging them several times with great rapidity gab

, ,
b ling and singi ng all the time till at last the rings are le ft on t h e ,
roper fingers and the garlands laid aside together S om e
g , .
3 read W t h
, has been blessed and marked with the sign o f th e
c ross is then broken and eaten by the bride and bridegroom
, ,
and a cup o f wine is presented to them successively ; a fter
w hich the woman hands round the cake and liquor to the per
s ons present from whom i f she is not o f high rank she r e
, , ,
c e i ve s a piece o f money and kisses their hands in return
.
On
, .
the same or sometimes the following day she i s c arried in

, ,
p roces sion to her husb and s house and the evening is conclu
’
,
ded with music dancing and a feast chiefly o f fruits and
, , , ,
p artic ularly nuts . 2
T h e f un er a ls like thos e o f their ancestors are

f
o th e G r eeks , ,
c elebrated as occasions fo r various enterta inmen ts and in , ,
s ome respects bear a considerable resemblance to those o f
,
t h e lower Irish On the death o f any person o f dignity the
.
,
b ody is dressed in a rich garment and the litter covere d with ,
flowers T he friend s and domestics with the priests walk in
.
, ,
p rocession be fore the body and a fe w old women on each , ,

s ide o f the bier continue howling and lamenti ng enumerating
, ,
th e virtues o f the deceased and dwelling on the man y reasons ,

which should h ave m ade him remain longer in li fe Behind .
the body come the female relations and friends m uffled up in ,

m ourni ng habits A t t h e place o f interment a funeral ser
.
vi ce is read and the body rolled in a winding sheet is d e

, ,
-
,
p osited i h the grave with some o f the fl owers that had

a dorned e bier About the ninth day a fter the funeral
‘
th . a ,
feast is prepared by the nearest relation who makes presents ,
to the priests and entertains th e guests with music dancing
, , ,
a n d every kind o f merriment The burying grounds are at .
-
a distance from the towns and the chur ches are generally ,
n ear the hi h ro ad G r o v e s o f cypress or yew trees e n e r a lly
s urroun d tg
.
e tombs ; and these spots are frequente on cer

t ain days by the relatives o f~ the recent dead wh o a fi er shed , ,
ding a fe w tears and depositing a garland or lock o f hair
, , ,
i n the grave s p e nd the remainder o f the day in dancin g an d
,
s i n gin g
9 . E U ROPEAN TU RKE Y .
Q
are generally stout well made and
I n th ei r p er s ons th e T u r ks , ,
r obust ; their complexions are naturally fair and their featur es

. .
“
h andsome Dr Madd en pronounces them physically speak ,
i t)
g to be the fin est animals and indeed excelling all Europea ns
,
”
in bo di ly vigor as we ll as beauty Their hair is o f a d ark au .
N ew E dinb urgh Encyc op ed a l i .

U N I V ER S AL T RA V ELLE R . 299
T U R K I S H C H A R A CT ER .
burn chestnut sometimes black o f which last color are th e

or , ,
eye s . T he fem ales are well proportioned and inclined to cor ,
p ul e n c y ; whilst young they are be a uti ful ; but they loo

,
k old at
thirty ;
Th es e p eop l e a r e and requir e

h a bi tua lly g r a ve a nd i ndo len t ;
str ong excitements to rouse them to action ; but they are easi
ly provoked and then they become furious and uncontrollable
,
.
In religious m atters they are tenacious superstitious and mo ,
rose T hey are full o f dissimulation suspicion and j ealousy ;

. , ,
and will even abandon their ava r ice to grati fy their revenge .
Acc ustomed to an abstemious li fe and early inured to hard ,
ships the in ferior classes are well fitted fo r the fatigues and
'
,
h ardships o f war E very Turk considers himsel f by birth a
.
soldier ; and only in the c am can he be s aid to live In the .
pomp the noise the glitter 0 war he delights in the ho ur o f

, , ,
actual battle he is all energy ; but the incessan t fatigu e o f the

,
fi eld s oon disheartens him .
When speaking o f the T urkish character Dr Madden says ,

.
“In my medical relations w ith them I had much to admire

, ,
and a great deal to condemn I found them charitable to the .
poor attentive to the sick and kind to their domestic s ; but I

, ,
a lso fo und them p e r fi d io u s to their friends treacherous to their ,
enemies and thankless to their bene factors Eight c ases o f
,
.
poisoning have fallen under my observation already ; fi ve o f

these victims I attended and in every case the fatal d ose did ,
its deadly b us iness within e i h t a n d forty hours but in most ‘ -

,
instances within twelve T e nature o f the poison I cannot .
s peak o f with certainty ; from its being tasteless in the co ffee ,

which is commonly made its vehicle it c an neither be opium , .
nor c orrosive sublimate ; but from the symptoms it p roduces , ,

I b elie v e d it to b e arsenic O f all things in Turkey human .
,
li fe is o f the least value and o f all the roads to honor and a m , .
b itio n murder is deemed the most secure

,
I sat beside a C an .
diote T urk at dinner who boaste d o f having killed eleven men

,
'
in cold blood ; and the society o f t h is assassin was c ourted by

the cousin o f the R eis flen di at whose house I met him b e
cause h e was a m an 0 gcourage I attended the h arem o f a
, ,
‘ ’
.
ri ch U l em a a man o f the law and o f e religion wh ose fe

, , ,
m ale slave was incapacitated fo r dr gery He proposed .
‘
s endin pg fo r one o f the Jewish wo men who followed the avo ca ,
tion o f in fa n tic id e and wh o are c onsulted not only by the

,
Turks but als o by the most respectable o f Levantines I o f
, .
co urse declined a consultation With a p r ivile ed m u rderess ,

and represent e d the evil consequences a r is in rom such pra o
tices In short one o f the most de p lorable e ects o f despotis m
.
,
is the little va lue it c ause s the pe ople to set on human li fe
, I .
do not im agine they are wantonly cruel ; but a government

which overwhelms without punishing— which visits cri m e with
th e h and o f ven geance and not o f j ustice — which i n flicts , ,
de a th n o t fo r example but fo r the s ake o f getting rid o f th e
, ,
300
.
U N I V ER S A L T RA V E L L E R .
U R OP EA N T U R K EY E .
o ff ender — and whose fanaticism m akes a merit o f s h e d d in

,
blood —such a go vernmen t I s ay must deprave the he arts 0
, , ,
th e people and render them sanguinary and atrocious
,
“T he T urks are enerally considered to be honester th a
.
g n
the Greeks and in point o f fact they are or at least appear so ;
, ,
they are certainly less mendacious and are to o clumsy to ,
p racti c e chicanery to a dvantage T heir probity however .

,
d epends not on any moral rep u gnance to deceit but solely on ,
the want o f talent to decei ve I never found a Turk who kept .
his word whe n it was his interest to break it ; but then I never
,
knew a Greek wh o was not unnecess arily and habitually a

, .
liar He is subtle in spirit insidious in discours e plausible i n

.
, ,
his manner and inde fatigable in dishonesty ; he is an a c c o m
-
~
,
p l is h e d scoundrel ; and beside him the Turk with all the de , ,

sire to de fraud is so g a uch e in knavery that to avoid d e te c
, , ,
ti on he is constrained to b e h o n es t
~ ” .
,
S om eth i n g f u r th er ma y b e l ea r n ed of th e T ur kis h ch a r a ct er ,
as w ell as o f the manners and customs o f this people , from a n
account o f their h a r ems T h e ter m harem is used to d istin
. .
a
guish such apart m ents as are allotted to women T he word .
si nifies a secret retreat, and also th e fem ale part o f a Turk

_
g
is family being c ollected in it T he author who m we h ave .
already quoted , enj oyed a peculiarly favorable opportunity ,

from his pro fess ion , to witness the interior o f these well guard
ed retreats .
He s ays on my first visit to a h a r em the inmates were al

, ,
ways veiled and the pulse was e ven to be f lt through th e
,
e
medium o f a piece o f gauze ; but subseq uently whether I , ,
spired confidence by sedateness or de ference to my orders by ,

firmness o f m anne r I know not but my fair patients usually
, ,
submitted to inspection with a o o d race and in the a bsenc e , ,
o f the husband even laugh s an j ested in my presence
,
.
S ome who called me dog at the first interview and did

,
‘ ’
,
every thing but spit upon me became familiarized with the ,
presence o f an infidel and o ften m ade me present s o f e mb r o i
,
dered handkerchie fs and purses T hey asked me the most .
ridiculous questions about the women o f my country i f they

‘
,
were su ffered to go abroad witho ut a eunuch ; if they could

love men who wore -h ats ; i f we drowned them o ften ; if they
went to the bath every week ; i f they s u ll i ed or washed their
e lbows ; i f I was m arried and h o w m any wives I had ; and
’
,
s ometimes the husband was even present at the con vers ation ,
and condescended to laugh with pity when he heard that ,
Englis h ladies walked unveiled and that it was unusual to have ,
more than one at a time fo r a wi fe But what seemed to cre .
ate the greatest horror o f all was the disuse o f those lower ,
g arments which are indispensable to Turkis h ladies .
Where personal charms are all that make a woman v alua~

ble it is not to be supposed but that eve r y care is taken to
,
h ei ghten them cosmetics are used in abundan ce ; th ey t in ge
302 NI V ER S A L T R A V E L L ER
U .
E U R OP E AN T U R K EY .
p ften much lower and i s t h en fastened with little gol

, d kn o b s
m r e a t numbers
‘g .
tawdry decorations T he ceilings are daubed in fresco ; th e

.
p anels and c ornice are gilt ; in the walls there are various
nooks with Moorish carvings inlaid with mother o f pearl
, ,
- -
s erving fo r boudoirs &c

,
.
“
In the centre o f the sitting room there is commonly a mar
,
-
,
ble fountain whose falling water lulls th e indolent to repose
,
,
and amuses the thoughtless with i ts murmurs T he richest .
per fumes are kept burning near the divan and the very air is ,
ma d e the pander o f the senses A ll the furniture o f the cham .
ber consists o f the divan it surrounds th e room ; the cover is

o f the finest cloth ; the cushions o f blue or purple velvet , .
Costly car p ets are spread over the marble floor and u pon ,
them the la d ies seat themselves to di rie a fter the lord o f the ,
cre a tion has appeased his appetite ; there are neither knives
nor forks nor plates nor drink ing glasses nor chairs nor ta
, , , ,
bles ; one common dish a p pears at a time and perhaps fi fty ,
are b rou ht in succession T he prej udice against greasy fi n .
gers at r st made it rather monstrous to see delicate ladies

, ,
plunging their hands into reeking dishes ; tearing a leg o f

mutton piecemea l or tugging at the wing o f an obdurate fowl
,
b ut now I can look on a greasy finger with as much compla
c e n c y as a silver fork and drink soup with a wooden spoo n,
out o f a tureen that supplies perhaps a dozen ” .
Th e T u r ks s it cr os s -legg ed on s of a s , c us h i o ns , o r m a ttr es s es ,
a s w ell a t m ea ls a s i n co mp a n y T heir ide as seldom extend
b eyond the wall s o f their own houses , where th ey sit conver
sing with their women , drinking co ffee o r sherbet, or sm okin g
tobacco T hey are strangers to wit and agreeable convers a
.
tion ; h ave fe w printed books and rarely read any other th an ,

the K oran and the comments u pon it T hey dine about ele v .
en in the forenoon and su p ~a t five in the winter or six in the

, ,
summer ; the latter is their princip a l meal T he dishes are .
served up one by one but they h ave neither knives nor forks ,
a n d t h e ir religion prohibits the use o f gold or silver spoons

‘
T heir victuals are always highly seasoned Rice is the ordi .
n ary food o f the l o w es t o r d e r s ; and sometimes it is boi ed up

l
with gravy ; but their favorite dish is p i la w whic h cons i sts o f ,
a highly seasoned soup made o f mutton a n d fo w l bo l led to ,

ra gs an d poured upon rice that has been b o rled qu i te dry
,
.
T hey are temperate and sober ; their religi on forb i ds the m

the use o f wine yet in private m any o f them indulge in i t
, ,
.
T he use o f the pipe ho wever a ffo r d s th e chie f employment

, ,
‘
to a T urk T he use o f it is u ni versal and almost uninterrupted

.
, ,
.
On horseback riding sitting walking reclining or l abori n g

, , , , ,
at hi s ar t it is a cons tant companion It is one o f the fe w
,
.
t hings on which the Turks display much splendor or tas te .

U N IVER S AL T RAVELLER . 303
MANN ER S AN D C U S T O M S .
It is always sumptuo u s with those who can a ord

fi l
f ,
it T he tub e .
is six or s even feet in length and the bowl is r ch y ornamen te d ,

.
T he bowl is sometimes supporte d on wheels that i n m o vm g , ,
it th e indolence o f the smoker may not be V i ola ted

,
.
In a li fe as void o f incident as that o f the Turk some there ,
are who seek the excitement o f opium T hey are called th e .

t
r i a ki s opium eaters and particular co ffee hou ses ex i st where

- -
, , ,
t hey asse mble to indulge themselves in their del i ght ful employ
ment “
I had heard says Dr Madden so many contr a
”
.
,
.
,
d i c t o r y reports o f the sensations produced by this dru g that I ,
resolved to know th e truth and accor di ngly took my seat i n ,

the co ffee house with hal f a dozen th er i a k is T heir gestures
-
,
- -
.
w ere fright ful ; those who were completely under the i n fluence
o f the O pium talked incoherently their features were flushed , ,
their eyes had an unnatural brilliancy and the general expres ,
sion o f their countenances was horribly wild T he e ffect is .
usually pro duced in two hours and lasts four or five ; the dose ,
varies from three grains to a drachm I s aw an old m an take .
four pills o f six grains each in the course o f two hours ; I

, ,
was told he had been using opium fo r fi v e and twenty years ; - -
but this is a very rare example o f an opium eater passing thir -
ty years o f age i f he commence the practice early

,
T he de .
b ility both moral and physical attendant on its excitement is

, , ,
terrible ; the appetite is soon des troyed every fibre in the body ,
t rembles the nerves o f the neck become a ffected and the
, ,
m uscles get rigid ; several o f these I have seen in this place ,
at various times who had wry necks and contracted fingers ;
,
b u t still they c annot abandon the custo m ; they are miserable
til l the hour arrives fo r taking their regular dose ; and when
its delight ful influence begins t hey are a ll fire and animation , .
S ome o f them compose excellent verses and others addres s ,

the b y standers in the most eloquent discourses imagining ,
themselves to be em p erors and to have all the h arems in the ,
world at their command I c o m m en c e d with one grain ; in .
the course o f an hour and a hal f it produced no perceptible e f

fe e t ; the co ffee house keeper was very anxious to give me an
-
a dd i tional pill o f two grains but I was contented w ith hal f a one ; ,
a n d a fter another hal f hour feeling nothing o f the expected ,
revery I took hal f a grain more m aking in all two grains in
, , ,
the course o f two hours A fter two hours and a hal f from the.
first dose I took two grains m ore ; and shortly a ft er this dose
, ,
my spirits became sensibly excited : the pleasure o f the sen
s ation seemed to depend on a univers al expansion o f mind
a n d matter My faculties appe ared enlarged : every thing I
.
looked on seemed increased in volume ; I had no longer the

s ame ple a sure when I closed my eyes which I had when they
,
were open ; i t appeared to me as if it were only external o h
J e C tS W t h were acted upon by the imagination and magni ,
fi e d i n to i m a ge s o f pleasure : in s hort it was the faint ex q u
‘
O
i
’
,
S i te mus m o f a dream in a waking moment I made m y way
.
’
'
h o me as fa st as p ossible dreadin g at every ste p t h at I should

, ,
3 04 NIVER S A L T RAVELLER U .
E U R O P E AN TU R K EY .
c ommit some extravagance In walkin g I w a s hardly sensi .

,
b le o f my feet touching the ground ; it seemed as i f I slid along
th e street impelled by some invisible agent and that my blood
, ,
was composed o f some ethereal fluid which rendered my body ,
lighter than air I got to bed the moment I r eached home
.
.
T he most ex traordinary visions o f delight filled my brain all

night In the morning I rose pale and di spirited ; my head
.
,
ached and my body was so deb ilitated that I was obliged to
remain on the so fa all the day dearly paying fo r my fi rst essay ,
at opium
Th e T u r ki s h ci ti eswhen see n
h a v e a l l a sp len d i d a pp ea r a n c e,
a t a distance but the delusion vanishes on entering them
, .
T here are many towers domes and minarets and these seen , , , ,
over the line o f walls always make an imposing show But the ,
.
individual houses have neither elegance nor com fort ; and

m any o f them are slightly built o f perishable m aterials T he ,
.
m ore substantial kinds have verandahs an d courts and on th e ,

flat roo fs the inhabita nts sleep in certain se asons A fire r a .
“
ges in a T urkish city T he general apathy o f the people the

"
.
,
want o f concert or organization and their creed o f predesti ,
n a tio n a r e s o many allies to the flame which is seldom check
'
, ,
ed at Constantinople till it l acks fuel by reaching an ope n
, ,
p lace or ,
till a space is cleared by the removal o f houses T his .
is not di fficult as the buildings are small T he houses have

,
.
little exterior ornament fo r in T urkey it is not sa fe to m ake , , ,

.
a display o f wealth T h e in ter io r is finished w ith much finery

.
,
b u t little taste T he rooms have carpets a nd there is a divan
.
, ,
or raised step or platform running round them which is c o v
, , ,
ered with cushions that m ake the only seats o f the Turks on, ,
which they sit cro s s legged like tailors S ometimes several -
.
cushions are pile d together and form a sort o f raised couch ,

.
T here are no tables but trays are used which are placed on , ,
the floor T here are no fi r e places and though it is not rar e
.
-
,
that persons are killed by the vapor o f charcoal the rooms ,
are warmed by nothi n g else .
A rchitecture is an art founded on necessity and wher e this ,

is neglected the ornamental arts can have no encouragement
,
.
Yet perhaps any other people than the T urks would in Tur
, ,
key h ave produced some monuments o f goo d architecture .
A sia Minor and S yria h ave m ore numerous and imposing r e

mains o f ancient art than are to be found in Europe T he .
T urk views them with his usual apathy ; and s o much above
his estimation o f human means do they seem th at he re fers ,
their erection to the agency o f spirits summoned by S olomon ;

yet he feels no admiration and attempts no imitation ,
.
I n E u r op ea n T ur key, p os ts a r e es t a bli s h ed , but the hors es

a r e v ery in ferior , and they are to be had only on the c h ief
Madden ’
s Tr a vel s in Tu rkey and Egyp t .
306 NIVER S AL T R A VELLER
U .
E U R OP E A N T U R K E Y .
pu ff and drove the tube against the palate o f his mouth with
,
great v iolence ; his lips were bloody i n a moment and th e sight ,

only excited a roar o f merriment around him I w a s in hopes .
the a m us em en t was over but another and a more inhum an

, ,
j est succeeded —a plate was filled with flour and in this ,
twenty short piece s o f lighted candle were stuck ; the bu ffoon
and his companion were placed kneeling in the centre o f the
room O pposite to each other and they were m ade to hold the ,
plate by their teet h ; at a given signal they were to blow the
fl our in each other s face across the candles and he wh o
’
, ,
gave the quickest blast escaped the volume o f flame which the
ignited part icles o f flour sent forth ; the fellow‘who sustained
the first injury had the good fortune to esc ape u nscorched ;
,
he completely singed the bald head o f his companion and ,
burned the upper part o f his face and brows severely ; the re
was another shout o f sa v age laughter while the un fortunate ,
m a n was smearing oil over his features to allay the p a in I .
saw preparations m aking fo r farther feats o f T urkish humor ,

but I was thorou ghly disgusted and gladly le ft the place ” .
,
He only remnant o f S aracen chivalry existin g in Turke y
is t e j er eed t o u rnament “ ”
I witnessed one says Dr Mad
. .
,
“
den i h honor o f the birth o f a child in the imperial harem
, ,
and certainly never beheld s o im posing a spectacle as this im
mense assembla e o f people exhibited ; upwards o f sixty thou
sand persons 0 either sex in all the varieties o f E astern ,
costume and in which all the colors o f the rainbow were blend
,
ed were seated o u the sloping sides o f a natural amphitheatre
,
the S ultan sat above magnificently apparelled surrounded by
,
his black and white slaves in glittering attire He appeared .
about forty four years o f age ; his figure m ajestic and h is

-
,
aspect noble ; his long black beard added to the solemnity o f
features which he never rela x ed fo r a moment ; and while all
,
around were convulsed with laughter at the bu ffooneries o f
a merry andrew who amused the multitude he kept his
-
, ,
dark eye on the juggler but he never smiled Hu ii dr e d s o f
,
.
»
horsemen were galloping to an d fr o on the plain below hurl ,
ing the j e eed at random ; now assailing the nearest to them

r ,
now in pursuit o f the disa r med T heir de x terity in avoiding .
the weapon was luckily very great otherwise many li v es must

'
,
have been lost ; as it was I saw one cavalier led o ff with his
,
e ye punched out and another crushed under a horse ; these

,
accidents never inter fered fo r a moment wit h the sports ; one
spor t succeeded another A fter the j er eed came the wrestlers
.
, ,
n aked to the wai st and smeare d wit h oil

,
T hey prostrated .
themsel ves several times be fore the S ultan per formed a num
'
,
ber o f very clumsy feats and then set to T heir address lay
,
.
in seizing one another by the hips ; and he who had the most
strength li fted his a d versary o ff h is legs and then flinging h i m
, ,
to the earth fell with all his force upon him Music relieved the
,
.
tedium between the rounds and several occurred be fore any ,

serious mischie f was sustained A t last one poor fell ow was .
'
IVER S A L T RAV E LLER UN 307 .
P UN I SH M EN T S .
m aimed fo r li fe to m ake a T u rkish holyday ; he had his thigh

,
bone smashed and was carried o ff the field with great a p
,
p la u s e ! Bear fi h tin g was next attempted ; but Bruin was not

to be coaxe d or g
-
rightened into pugnacity the dogs growled

at him in vain During all these pastimes the slaves were run
.
,
ning b ackward s and forwards from the multitude to th e S ultan ,

carrying him innu merable petitions from the former which ,
he c annot re fuse to receive and s e ldo m ~c a n find leisure to ,
read T he departure o f the pacific bear terminated these

.
brutal sports and every one except the friends o f the dead
, ,
m an and the two wounded appeared to go away delighted b e ,

yond measure ” .
.
T h e l a wsf oare principally contained
T u r key, in the Koran ,
and commentaries sages In wh atever justice they may b e
of .
founded it is admitted by travellers that the administration o f

,
them is singularly corrupt B ribery is practised to a great .
extent and seldom is it that a j udge h as not his price Dr .
C larke recites the following c a s e as an example o f the manne r

.
,
in which a principle o f la w is sometimes applied A youn g .
m an d e s p e r ately i n love with a girl o f S ta n c h io eagerly sought ,

to marry her ; but his proposals were rej ected In c ouse . :
q u en c e o f his disappointme n t he bought some poison and de ,
stroyed himsel f T he T urk ish police instantly arrested the

. .
father o f the young w oman as the cause by i mp l i c t ion o f the , a ,
man s death ; under the fif th p eci s h om i ci d e h e became

’
s e 0 ,
'
there fore amenable fo r this act o f suicide When the case .
came be fore the m a gistrate it was urged literally by the , ,
accusers th at I f h e the accuse d had not had a daughter th e

‘
, , , ,
d eceased would not have fallen in love ; consequently h e
'
,
would not have been dis a ppointed ; consequently he would not
h ave swallowed poison ; c onsequently he would not h ave
d ied — but he the accuse d h ad a daughter ; and the deceased
‘
, ,
h ad fallen i n love ; and had been d isappo inted ; and had s w a l
lowed poison ; and had died U pon all these counts he was .
’
,
c alled u pon to pay the price o f the young m an s li fe ; and this ’
being fixed at the sum o f eighty p i a s t es was accordi n gly ex r

,
capital punishment there are several v a rieties One is

Of .
by poison which is sometimes conveyed in co ffee on the mouth

piece o f a pipe or in sherbet D r Madden observes that he
, . .
once h ad an opportunity o f seeing the speedy e ffect o f poison

ed co ffee on an E gyptian merchant ; he died se ven hours a f
ter its administration o f dread f ul torture “ D e c a ifi ta tio n ”
, .
,
“
observes the same author is the m ost humane and most com ,
m on mode o f inflicting death ; de faulters to government murder ,
ers rebellious subjects generally undergo thi s punishment I

, ,
.
h ave seen it v ar io u s ly per formed at one time with a single back ,
h anded stroke o f a h a nj a r at other times wi th the curved ,
C larke ’
s T r av e l s .
308 NIVER S A L T RAVELLER U .
E U R OP E A N T U R K E Y .
a ti ca n and with repeated blows : i f a Turk the head is placed

ig
, ,
en e a th the elbow i f a Greek in a more opprobrious position
, , .
Impaling is rare and reserved fo r highway robbery ; the last,
time I heard of its being practised was on a highwayman in

Wallachia A stake was thru st through h i s body and it w a s
.
,
thus set up fo r exhibition T he b owstr ing I saw inflicted in .
,
C a n ea on an A lbanian soldier who shot a woman in the street
,
T he operation wa s very sum
,
from a co ffe e house window .
mary : the pallid wretch was tried in the morning and he ,

knew nothing o f the nature o f his sentence till he was seize d
by two strong fellows hurried into the courtyard o f the house ,
and exactly at sunset a gun w as fired the noose was slipped
, ,
o ver his face a short stick passed between the back o f his
-
,
neck and th e cord and this w as twi sted round and round till ,
he was strangled
“T he bastinado is the chasti seme n t visited on petty larceny
.
,
w h i c h is a crime h o wever very freq uent in Turkey ) on
g r u n k e n n e s s re fusal o f paying tribute ta x es & c ; and some
,
, ,
, ,
.
,
times it is employed on R a y h s to extort a con fession o f their a ,

wealth T here are also various methods o f i nflicting the bas
.
t in a d o : on the soles o f the feet with the thong o f the hide o f ,
th e hippopotamus called co u r b a h this I have seen laid on by ,

s
two men one at each side o f the poor wretch who is placed
, ,
on his back and kept down by a m an sitting on his breast ; the
,
legs are generally streaming with blood a fter this horrid pun
is h m e n t ! From ninety to two hundre d stripes are commonly
i ven ; but fo r greater crimes fi v e hundred are inflicted ; and ,
or still greater a thousand ; this number is always fatal
,
.
A n o th efr very common mode o f bastinadoing is with thick ,

long sta ff s o ver the stomach ribs a n d loins ; and this bar , ,
barous practice generally maims th e m an fo r li fe
-
.
“Other modes o f apital punishment a e by the sack and by

c r
drowning Nailing by the ears is an operation per formed on
.
bakers fo r selling l ight bread T here is a hole cut in the door .
fo r the bac k o f the c ulprit s head ; the ears are then nailed ’
to the panel ; h e is le ft in this position till sunset then r e ,

leased ; and seldom sustains any permanent i njury from the
punishmen t except in his reputation A nd lastly I must no .
, ,
tice the absurd mode o f p unishing perj uries ; an o ffence which

,
is so little thought o f that it is visited with the mildest o f all ,

their punishments T he o ff ender is set u pon an ass with his .
,
face to the tail and a label on his back with the t erm s ch ea t
, , ,
o r perjurer .
T h e T ur ki s h l a n gu a g e is written in the A rabic character ,

and is evidently o f T artar origin ; b ut its writers have borrow
ed so copiously from the languages o f P ersia and A rabia , that
“
i t h a s r e ceived the appellation o f M ule m m a , or the pied
“
m are Mr T hornto n says no language it better suited fo r
” . .
,
colloq uial purposes ; and though he m aintains that it excels in
dignity and gravity he allows that it is deficient in terms o f
, ,
3 10 NIVE R S A L T RAVE L LER U .
E U R OP E AN TU R K E Y .
i n a city T he m an enters into a compact be fore the c adi to

.
, ,
maintain the woman as his wi fe fo r a given period or till such ,
time as his busines s calls him away .
Th e European T urkey is th e M a h om eta n Ch r i s

r eli g i on o f
,
t i a n a n d J ewi s h
,
T he Christia n embraces the A rmenian
.
,
C atholic and Greek churches M a h o m eta nis m however i s
,
.
, ,
the prevailing faith and its pro fessors acting upon the princi , ,
ple o f exclusion inculcated in the Koran regard with disdain ,
and aversion all who ado t a d i fferent faith , .
T he K or a n is the bible o the Mahometans It was the work .

,
as our readers well know o f Mahomet the founder o f this r e , ,
li gio n wh o was born at Mecc a A D 5 69
,
In his youth he ,
. . .
was a travelling merchan t His fortunes and influence were .
established by his marria e o f a rich widow by the name o f

C a d ij a h in whose service e h ad been employed
, A t the age .
o f forty he be an to promulgate his religion which p artaking

, , ,
somewhat o f u d a is m and Christianity has been called a ,
“Christian heresy ” In successive years he published por
,
.
tion s o f the K o ran as suited his convenience accommodating , ,
his revelations to exigences as they occurr ed A t fir st his .

,
succes s was sm all his converts fe w ; but at len gth he gather,
ed strength ma d e himsel f master o f A r abia and now fo r mor e

, ,
than twelve hundred years M a h o m et a n is m h as prevailed to a ,
g reat extent in A sia and also in A fri ca T urkey in Europe ,

.
i s one o f its strongholds ;

T he Koran inculcates the belie f 0 six articles or command
m ents .
l s t T he belie f in one only God

. .
2 d T he b elie f in Mahome t s apostolic al ch aracter

’
. .
3 d T he observance o f the R am azan Fast

. .
4 th T he practice o f the five prayers and ablutions

. .
5 th T he application o f t wo and a h al f per cent o f pro p erty

. .
to the poor .
6 th T he per form ance o f the pilgrimage to Mecca

; .
T he fi v e prayers are to be repeated daily ; one be fore sun

rise one at the dawn one at noon one at four in the a fternoon
, , , ,
and one at sunset T heir posture during prayer is erect with.
,
their arms folded over their breasts and apparently in serious ,
contemplation o f the duty they a re per forming T heir faces .
are turned to the east ; nothing is heard but a short ej aculatio n

as they place themselves cross—legged fo r a fe w minutes and ,
t hen s alute t h e gro und with their foreheads ; this prostration

occurs nine times .
T he Mu fti is the head o f the religion an o fficer o f the ,
h ighest rank entitled to m any immunities and to one espe

, ,
c ia lly o f no little value in T urkey exemption from capita l ,
p unis hment .
M uf t is however under violent S ultans h ave been pounded

, , ,
in m ortars fo r sli ght o ffen c e s T o this p onti ff all matte rs o f .

U N IVER S AL T RAV E L LER . 811
R E LI GI ON .
re li gion are re ferred ; and by him a ll kn otty points o f theolo gy

ar e d isentangled .
T here can h ar dly b e said to exist a church establishment in

T urkey ; there are in fact no pro fessed priests ; th e I m a ms, , ,
who occasionally expound a passage o f the Koran in the
m o sque h ave no other duty to per form there and commonly
, ,
follow some lucrative employm ent .
T h e M o ul a h s are the bodies from which th e m ufi i is cho sen

g
,
and are not churchme n but lawye r s T he muezzi n super ,
.
sedes the necessity o f a bell : he ascends the minaret five times

a day and calls the faith ful to p rayer ; he tells them at day
, ,
b reak th at prayer is better than slee
,
and at dinner hour -
,
th at prayer is better th an fo od T he e r v is h e s correspond to .
the monks o f Italy ; they are lazy and un cleanly they pro
fes s to live a li fe o f abstinence but drink rum with great de ,
v o tio n They eat much O pium Th e sect o f them c alled
’
. .
Mevelevi from their founder are the whirling der vishes they
, ,
S pi n roun d and round in acts o f devo tion with such velocity , ,

th at they sometimes drop to the ground ; and there in a state ,
o f int o xic ation they a ffect to have celestial vi sions and edi fy
, ,
th e surrounding multitude wi th such marvellous descriptions
as Don Quixote detailed a fter his subterrane an j ourney .
In the Mahometan religion nothing is inculcated m ore ,
s trictly th a n the observance o f the fast o f the R a m a z a n durin

g ,
a lunar month F rom sunrise to sunset the pleasures o f th e
.
,
table the pipe and the h arem are forbidden It is n o t~p e r m it~
, , ,
.
ted to taste a m o r s el o f foo d nor a drop o f water all d ay long

”
; , .
No sooner is th e M ag r eb anno unced from the mosque the p e ,

a
rio d permitted fo r eating and drinking than the revels o f the ,
night commence and they feast and enj oy themselves till the
,
approach of the unwelcome morning A fter this fast comes .

,
the great feast o f th e b ei r a m a festival corresponding to E ast ’
,
‘
er T his is a time o f uni versal r ej o ic i n every one is dress

ed in his richest apparel Even the Ia g
. ‘
ie s are permitte d to
'
visit their friends and to receive the visits o f their nearest

,
male relations that is to say o f their fathers brothers and n u
, , , ,
cl es ; b u t they are permitted this visit at no other period ; and
it is in general short and ceremonious
, , T h e Turks imagine .
th e current o f their v i ves a ffections c an n ever fl o w in two ’

‘
channels ; and that it is impossible fo r a woman to love a

b rother and a husb a nd at the same time .
T he sixt h com m andment or per formance o f the pilgrimage ,

to Mecca is o f s uch vital importance to a ll Mussulmans that
, ,
no one is exemp t from its obligations exc ept the grand seignior , ,
and even he m u st go through it by proxy .
A fter the R ama z an F ast the three caravans from C airo , , ,

D a m a s c us a n d A rabia set out fo r the Holy C ity
, In di fferent , .
years the number o f pil grims varies from sixty to one hundred
.
th ousand soul s and the number o f c amels from eighty tho u

, ,
s and to a hundred and fi fl
y th o u s a n d
'
, .
T o w alk seven times h o und the hou s e o f Abrah am as th ey ,

31 2 U N I V ER S A L T RAVE L LE R .
U R OP EAN TU R KE Y E .
call the chie f mosque in Mecca to kiss a b lack stone whic h , ,

they pretend fell white from heaven ; to plunge into a well ,
called Zem Zem and to take a draught o f fetid water an in ,
fatu ate d multitude tra verse the burning deserts o f A rabia and
,
h undreds o f them annually leave their bones to bleach in t h e
wi d e wilderness A s no m a n h as a n y honor till he becomes a
.
h a dg i or pilgrim every one endeavors to visit the Holy C ity

, , ,
wh atever may be his circ umstances or occupation .
T h e r o om wh er e a d yi n g l i es , is crowded with his male

ma n
‘
rel ations ; they tell him theangel o f death has summoned him “
to heaven , and that he should go there with a cheer ful coun

te n a n c e that he should meet his fate as a m a n , and rejoice in
d ying a true believer, which ultimatel y must lead him to para
dise whatever may h ave been his crimes T hey then make
, .
“
very hyperbolical a s surances o f friend ship that they would
willingly die to have the pleasure o f his soc i ety in eter ni ty ;
“that i f it were possible they would die f
o r him
” B u t as u n .
‘
for t unately they cannot and the patient gives up th e ghost

, ,
they then give way to immoderate sorrow ; they wee p ove r
the corpse the nearest relatives rend their garments —but ,
gradually the d istant ones dry their eyes gi ve com fort to the ,
others and a m ore m anly sorrow is soon e x hibited such as
, ,
would do honor to any C hristian b osom A ll this time .
w ith l d p l i t ou er a n
o
Th e w o m en s p ed t th ei r W 0,
tear their h air and apostrophi z e the corpse and ask him
, , ,
“why he le ft his wives and his servants and his horses ?”
, ,
T he shrillness o f the screa m s pierces e very ear in the n e igh a
b o r h o o d it is a peculiar yell c onsisting o f certain vibrations ,
o f the glottis w hich could only be imitated by giving the tone

,
o f an octave to the watchm an s rattle T his sound is indica ’

.
tive both o f j o y and s orro w and it is str a nge enough that all ,
the women o f the E a st Tu rk ish A rabian C optic and Arme

, , , ,
n ian should have th e same method o f demonstrating their
,
delight at a wedding and their grie f at a funeral
,
.
T hi s howl over the d ead the el elea o f the G reeks and u lu

’
.
, ,
la lu o f the Iris h is c alled a r h l a in T urkish er r a w a in A rabic

,
r ,
.
No sooner is the br eath out o f a man s body than all the ’

,
women in the vicinity rep air to the house o f mourning and ,
b o w l fo r a quarter o f an hour T hey mimic sorrow when .
the heart is no t sad and torment th e real mourners with form s

,
of consolation which
,
every well —bred woman has by heart .
B ut o n the other h and where there are many wives and

, , ,
where lo ve has been divided among many lamentation is also ,
partitioned and then it is only incumbent on her who has

,
borne most children to be inconsolable to the last
,
.
A s no Christian is su ffere d to be present at the preparation

o f the body fo r interment D r Madden said he risked his , eck . .
o n the roo f o f an adj oining house to see the process he '

.
,
3 14 U NI VER S AL T RAVELLER .
S WITZ E RLAN D .
v ersation o f the blessed T he torments will b e great heat .
a n d cold ; and the li htest o f all pain will b e to be s h od with

'
s hoes o f fi r e whose e r v o r will cause the skull to boil l ike a

,
cal dron B ut the good will b e immediately re freshed with the
.
rivers o f paradise surroun ded by as many cups as there are

,
stars in the sky ; and he who drinks will th irst no more T his .
paradise is in the seventh heaven ; its earth is o f musk its stones ,

are o f pearls its walls o f silver and its trees o f gold ; the fin est
, ,
tr e e i s t h a t c a lle d Tuba the tree o f happiness It is in Mahomet s
,
.
’
palace and h as a branch s reading to the house o f every true

,
moslem ; it is laden with elic io u s fru i t an d whatever sort a
m an Wishes it pr esents it to him T h e bo u gh s bend down to
,
.
him who stretches towards them with fish and flesh ready , ,
dresse d silken garments and ready s addled beasts This
, ,
.
tree is s o large that a fleet horse could n o t gallop round it in

a hundred years T here are a pro fusion o f rivers o f milk
.
,
wine and honey : fountains and streams o f living water whose
, ,
pebbles are rubies whose beds are camphor and whose sides
, ,
are sa ffron But all these glories w ill be eclipsed by the r e
.
splendent eyes o f the enchanting girls o f Paradise whose com ,

pany is the principal felicity o f th e fait h ful and who are secluded ,
from public view (fo r the are o f surprising m odesty ) in pa ‘
v ilio n s o f hollow pearls he meanest person will have c i h

two thous and servants and seventy two wi ves o f these b ac ,
-
e ed houris besides the wives he had in this world ; and these

,
b es s in s he will enj oy in a tent o f vast ex tent o f j ac inth s and
e m e r al *
s .
10 S . WIT ZE R LA N D .
S witz
erland embraces t wenty two cantons each o f which -
,
has a separate constitution but are all united like the U m te d , ,
S tates o f A merica in a con federacy fo r mu t ual de fence and

'
,
order In len gt h it is about 200 m iles and in breadth 1 30
.
, , ,
.
S quare miles about Its popul ation somewhat exceeds
Th e S iois s ,
a w r i t er r em ar ks ,
h a vet h e b ea u ty that comes from
health and strength They are tall robust and well made .
, ,
.
T h e women are pronounced by some to be even h andsome ;

b ut however destitute o f the b ea u i d ea l they are modest frank , ,
.
a n d agreeable in conversation .
Th e h a t ion a l ch a r ac t er o f the S wiss has deservedly been the

-
s ubj ect o f praise , on the part o f writers o f e v e ry k in d T hough .
t h e country consists o f a variety o f S tates , so me o f them fo r

m erly in d ep en d e n t, a n d each varying in i n stitutions and m an
‘
M adden ’
s Tr ave l s in Turkey an dEgyp t .
U nivE R s A L T R A V E L LER . 3 15
N A TI O NA L C H A R A C T E R .
ne rs somewh at from the rest the character o f the people is ,
a lmost unvaried being amiable and simple,

T hey are r em ar k a .
ble fo r their love o f country a feeling certainly common to ,

t hem with Oth e r s b ut which they seem to possess to a de ee
'
,
a ltogether unrivalled T his m ay arise in no small degree m m
.
the romanti c features o f their native land fo r it seems to b e

an invariable principle that patriotism is strong in proporti o n ,
as the country to whic h it re fers is distinguishe d by such fe a

tures .Goldsmith has well said
th l d th wh i l wi d
’
E dt r t
ven e ou or en an e r n s roar,
t m t m
,
B t b dh m t h
u in i o i s n a i ve o un ai n s o re .
”
T his unconquerable passion says Mr Pinkerton seem s “ .
, ,
to arise in part fro m a m oral sensibility to the enchanting eas e
and frankness o f the native m anners ; and in p art from th e ,
picturesque features o f the country the verd ant h ills contrasted ,
with A lpine snows and delicious vales watered by transparent
,
streams scenes nowhere else to be discerned in such p er fe c
,
tion and which must power fully a ff ect the imagination th e
, ,
-
”
parent o f the passions T he S wiss indeed posses s this pas
.
, ,
sion in so remarkable a degree that although no people emi , ,
ate more there are fe w who do n o t return to their native
,
and to lay down their b ones beside th o se o f their fathers .
T his love o f country i s liable to be excited and c alled into

action by circu m stances apparently trifling Hence in th e .
,
F rench armies c ompose d o f S wiss mercenaries the tun e

, ,
c alled the R a n ce d es Va ch es which in their youth they had , , ,
he ard so o ft en sung by the S wiss milkm aids when they went ,
to the pastures was care fully interdicted because it m elted th e
, ,
rough S wiss s oldier into tears and not un frequently led to de ,
sertion T he S wiss h ave long been as muc h distingu ished
.
fo r bravery as fo r patriotism T his virtue has b een o ft en .
eminently and success fully displayed in m a i ntaining the inde

p e n d e n c e o f their country ; and as mercenaries they are r e ,
garded as forming the best soldiers in Europe Lik e othe r .
people in a c om p aratively rude state o f society they are fond ,

o f traditions and o f ancestry and feel great reverence fo r a n ,
cient customs and i nstitutions T heir love o f freedom is ex .
tr ao r d i n a r y and they are always ready to risk or sacrific e

their li fe in de fence o f it T he hum an mind however s ays a .
, ,
modern writer on S witzerland is m ade up o f so m any con ,
tr a d ic ti o n s that in this country where liberty has been estab
, ,
li s h e d fo r s everal ages some remains o f the worst o f govern
,
ments are su ffered to continue ; j ustice is privately a d m in is
te r e d and the torture is still in us e
, T hey are fond o f labor .
,
by whic h they have surmounted every disadvantage o f so il
and climate and have spread fertility and beauty over spots
,
whic h nature seems to have meant fo r everlasting barren

n ess . T hey are farther characterize d by great simplicity
o f mann e r s b y an o p en a n d u na ffected frankn es s b y h os
, , ‘
SW ITZ E RL A N D .
honesty
itality , an d a ll the virtues o f private li fe Criam
ps rare and instances
-
, .
,
o f capital punishment seldom occur .
T h e S wis s , i n g en er a l, a r e n ot g i ven i nor d i n a t ely to d r es s ;

yet in some cantons sumptuary laws h ave been framed to p r e
v en t i d le ornaments Di fferent cos tumes the o rigin o f so m e
.
,
o f which is very ancient prevail in di fferent districts T hey , .
h ave little round h ats coats and waistcoats o f a kind o f coarse

b lack cloth ; breeches o f coarse linen somewhat like sailors ,
t rousers but drawn together in plaits below the knees ; and
,
r
s t o ckings o f the same sort o f stu ff T he women wear short .
j ackets with a pro fusion o f buttons and petti coats reaching to

, ,
t h e middle o f t h e le g T he sleeves o f the under garment are
’
fil l] and tied above the elbows

, U nm arried females set a v a l .
u e on the length o f thei r h air which they separate into two ,

d ivisions and allow to hang at full length braid ed with r i b~
, ,
a nds . A fter marria e these tresses are twisted round the hea d ,
i n spiral lines and ed at the crown with silver pins Both
, .
s ingle and m arried women wear straw hats ornamented with ,

b lack ribands Near Be r n the hat gives place to a strange
.
,
l ooking bla c k cap standing o ff the face a n d in shape like the
, ,
t w o wings o f a butterfly In some parts the hair is platted .
, ,
a n d pierced down to the heels In A p p en z el the modern ia .
,
v e n tio n o f braces is not yet adopted ; the dress is a s c a n ty
‘
ac ke t and short breeches and there is a preposterous interva l

'
,
e t w e e n the two garme n ts whic h the wearer makes frequent ,
b ut ine ffectual hitches to close .
M os t of are b uilt o f wood with

th e h o us es i n S wi tz er la nd ,
s taircases on the outside ; large s olid and compact ; and , ,
eat pent—house roo fs r eaching very low and proj ectin g
gyond the area o f the foundation T his peculiar structure is ,
.
,
designed to keep o ff the snow and is in unison with the beau ,

.
t i ful wildness o f the country T he houses o f the principal .
bur ghers are o f the sam e m aterials but lar er Numerous cot ,
.
t age s called ch a la te built on the sides 0 the mountains are

, , ,
m erely wooden hove ls with only one or two rooms ; and some ,
h ave their roo fs secured by no o th er f as ten ing th an the pres
s ure o f stones laid upon them S everal o f these rustic dwell .
ings are situated in places almost inaccessible to any but a

S wiss ; and to screen them fr om the e ffects o f the tremendou s
a valanche or descent o f mountain snow they are commonly
, ,
p laced beneath some towering rock over which the desolating ,
r uin shoots without touching the humble h u t

,
.
T he S wiss cotta g es are genera lly formed o f wood with pro ,
j e c t i n g roo fs as abo ve described covered with slates tiles or

, , ,
s hingles A fe w s m all enclos ures surround or are contiguo us

.
,
to them some o f which are watered mea dows others d

, p as ,
ture and one or more always devoted to the raising o oats ,
s o me barley and r y e or wheat fo r family consumption

, ,
In ,
.
th e garden which is large in proportion to th e far m ar e

, ,
g w r o n h e m p fl ax to b acco po ta to e,
s w hite b,
e e ts to b e u s e d , , ,
o
318 U NIVER S A L T R A V E LLER .
SWITZ E RLAN D .
w ith the pressed leaves , or the bruis ed seed o f the m elilo t .
T h e merit o f the Gruyere cheese depends chiefly on the herb

age o f the mountain pastures , and partly on the custom o f
m ixing the flowers or the bruised seed o f the melilot be fore it
i s r es s e d .
he inhabitants also eat the Ch a mo i s goa t with which som e ,

o f the forests ab ound T he hunting o f this is both an employ
.
ment and an amusement ; but in whatever r es p e c t it is regard

e d i t is full o f danger
,
T he wily goat i s at per fect ease on the
.
m ost giddy and slippery precipice O ft en must the hunter .
“climb icy barriers where a slip f the hand or oot would

o , f
p recipitate h im down a fathomless abyss or stand in a gale ,
upon the pinnacle o f a rock with the confidence o f the C hamo is ,
itsel f where as Gray said a goat may dance a n d s c r atch an
, , ,
‘
ear with its hind foot in a place where I could not h ave s tood
,
s till fo r a l l beneath the moon
” .
within a fe w years be c ome

'
T r a velli n g i n S wi tz er la n d , h a s , ,
quite ashionable
f ,
rom
no t f ease with which its valleys and
th e
mountains are explored but ro the toil and danger at the
,
f m ,
expense which its lpine scenery must be surveyed With
of A “ .
” “
in the present century remarks writer there were no inns
a , ,
in the m ountains and the tr aveller stopped at the house o f a
,
clergyma n or substantial farmer T he road s are o f all kinds ; .
s ome hard and smooth h aving seats and fountains at regular ,

distances ; but more are impassable to carriages and scarcely ,
s a fe fo r the sure instinc t o f mules On som e routes there are .
regular post coaches ; but generally the traveller unless h e

-
,
walks hires his own conveyance In the m ountains a ch a r a
,
.
-
b a n c is used a light carriage o f two flexible bars on four

,
w h eels T wo or three people sit sideways upon the bars and
.
,
the driver sits in front T here is but one horse Many trav . .
ellers p r e fer to explo r e S witzerland on foot a cheape r and not

'
,
less expeditious m ode o f travelling ” .
E d u ca ti o n i n S wi tz has in general not k ept pace with

er l a n d
the spir t the times Geneva however is distinguished fo r
i of .
, ,
its schools T he only university in S witzerland is at B asle
. .
A t Ho fwyl near Bern is the celebra ted school o f M Fellen

, ,
.
b erg . T his is a m an ual labor school the members o f which ,

0 out every morning to their work soon a fter sunrise having
first break fasted and received a lesson o f about an hour ; they
,
,
return at noon Dinner takes them hal f a n hour a lesson o f
. .
,
one ho u r follows ; then they work again till six in the evening .
On S unday the di fferent les sons take six hours instead o f two ;
,
a n d they have butcher s meat on that day only T hey are di
’
.
vid e d into three classes according to age and strength ; an ,
e ntry is made in a book ever n ight o f the number o f hours

e a c h class has worked speci ying the sort o f labor done in, ,
o rder that it may be charged to the proper account each par
'
ticular crop having an account o p ened fo r it as We ll as every ,

IVER S AL T R A VELLER UN .
H U N G A RI AN S T A T E S .
n e w building the live stock the m a c hines

,
the schools th em , ,
s elves &c &c In winter and wh e n ey er th er e I S n o o utto f

‘
,
.
,
.
,
d o ors work the b oys pla t straw fo r cha i rs make baskets s a w

, , ,
l ogs with the c r oss s aw and split them thrash and w m n o w -

,
corn grind colors knit stockings or assist the wh eel r i gh t and

, , ,
other a r tifi c er s o f whom there are many employed i n the es
,
ta bli s h m e n t For all which di fferent sorts Of labor a n a d e
.
quate s ala r y is c redited to each b oy s cl a s s T h e boys ne ver

’
.
s e e a newspaper and scarcely a book ; they a re taught c w a

,
v oc e a fe w m a tte rs o f fac t and rules o f pr actical appl i ca no ,
t h e rest o f their education consists c h i efi y i n inculcating hab i

O f industry frugality veracity do cility and m u tual k i ndness
, , , , ,
by means o f good ex ample rathe r than pr ecep ts ; and ab ove , ,
a ll by th e absence o f bad ex a mple

*
.
,
11 . H U NGARIAN S T A TE S .
Th e con t tute a ortion o f the Au s tria n

Hu nga r i a n S ta t es s i p
e mpire and consis t
,
Hungary with the prov o f t h e k i n gd o m o f ,
inc e s o f S c l a v o n ia and C roatia the pri ncipality o f T r a n s yl ,

vania the kingdom o f D almatia & c T he inhabita nts o f these
, ,
.
s tates are var i ous Hungary Proper containing no less tha n ,
t welve distinct people or nati ons ,

.
T h e Hungarians are not tall but well s h ape d acti ve a nd ,

-
,
muscular ; they ar e also bra v e o f a s anguine di sposi tio n t e , ,
venge ful and more addicted to arms martial exercise s and
, , ,
h unting than to arts commerce agricul ture and le arning:
T rade and manu fac t ures are le ft to the Greeks and other
, , ,
strangers settled in the country T he e mper or o f A ustria is

, .
king o f Hungary ; b ut he is here less absolute than in his other

d ominions T h e nobility who i n the court lang uage are
.
, ,
:
,
a lone considere d the Hungarian people have many and great ,
pri vileges which they watch over with scrupulous j ealousy ;
,
but the lower orders are in a most abj ect state o f poverty de ,
r a d a tio n and ignorance not one in twenty being able to rea
, ,
Vari ous languages are used in the di fferent parts o f the cou n
try ; and the real Hun arian which is said to be o f S cythian ,
o r i in h as very little a n ity with any E uropean lan uage
’
, g .
a n y o f the nobility who a r e ve ry numerous pas s their

'
, ,
ti me chiefly in hunting marti al exercis es and sens ual gr atifi , ,
c ations T hey a ffect much pomp and magnifice nce and par
.
,
t ic u l ar ly delight in feas ting T he costumes are various a nd .
picturesque but the higher classes follow somewhat the Fre nch
,
and German fashions T heir d res s us ually consists o f a fur .
cap a close b o died co at girt with a s as h and a cloak o r

,
-
,
:
,
'
,
mantle buckled under th e arm so as to leave the right han d
, ,
a t liberty T his gives them an air o f military di gnity which
.
,
L ondo n .
320 NIV E R S A L T R A V ELLER U .
I
H U N G A R I AN S T A T E S .
"
is he i ghtened by the mustaches worn on the upper lip : th e

rest o f the beard is shaved o ff T he ladies are reckoned .
ha n dsomer than those o f A ustria ; and their s able dress with ,

long sleeves fitting cl o se upon the arms a n d stays fastened in
, ,
front wi th small but tons o f gold pearl or d i amonds give
, , , ,
them a grace ful aspec t .
T h appearance o f the peasants is w r etched : obliged to

work ?ike slaves fo r the lords o f their soil they have no s tim u ,
lus to inventio n no excitement to industry be yond what they
, ,
are obliged to pe r form F rom a small hut cover e d wi th stra w .
fi lls the peasant s long black m atted hair negligently platted

’
, , , ,
or tied i n knots ; and over his dirty j a cket and trousers is
wrapped a coarse woollen cloak or a sheepskin still r etainin g , ,
its wool In summer as well a s in winter on the S unday a s

.
, , ,
o n the working d ay h e keeps on this covering ; and is never ,
s een b ut in heavy boots In a ll th e habi tations a per fect uni '
.
,
formity o f design is observable A village consists o f two
’
rows o f clay cotta ges one on ea c h side o f a wide muddy road : ,
the roo fs are covered with a thick thatch ; the walls are white
washed and pierced towards the road by two s m a ll windows
,
.
T h e c o ttages stand a fe w yards distant from each other ; the

interve nin g space d e fended b y a r a il and gate or a hedg e o f
, ,
w i c k er f w o r k towards the r oad constitu tes the farm yard

, ,
-
,
w hi c h r uns back some way and contains a shed or an out , ,
house fo r c a ttle T he interior o f the cottage is generally di
,
'
v i d e d int o three sma ll rooms o n the ground floor with a litt l e ,

space in the roo f fo r lumber T he door opens in the side int o .
;
the middle o f t h e room or kitchen wherein is a clay built , ,

-
oven and various implements fo r d omestic purposes which

, ,
'
fully occupy the apartment: On one side o f the k itchen a ,

door opens into the family sleeping room : here are the two -
windows which look into the road T his chamber is usually

,
.
s mall but well arranged ; the d s are piled in order one upon
, b e ,
the o ther to b e S pread o ut o n the floor at night ; and the walls

,
are cov e red w ith a multiplicity o f religious pictures together ,
with dishes pl ates and vessels o f coarse eart h enware
, ,
On .
the o pposite side o f the kitchen is anoth er door leading to the , ,

store r oo m in which are dep o sited the gr eater part o f the pea
-
,
“
sant s riche s c o nsisting o f bags o f grain o f various kinds blad

’
, ,
ders o f tallow sausa ge s a n d other articles o f provision in large
, ,
quantities T he yards or fields be tween the ho uses are muc h
.
, , ,
n eglected and the fo ul rece p tacl e s o f thousands o f uncleanly
,
obj ects Light carts and ploughs mea er cattle a loose rude
.
, ,
ly fo r m e d h e a p o f hay and h al f a ozen ra gged children
'
, ,
stan d there in mixed con fusion u nder the guardianship o f ,
three or four dogs o f a peculiar kind resembling in some de ,
g ree the New foundland breed .
Intermingled with thes e humble dwellings are seen the mar

ble palaces o f the nobility towering to the skie s surrou nded
~
, ,
b y gardens for tresses and terraces and decorated w th oun
,
i f , ,
t ains grottoes s tatue s and costly pictures ; a contrast o f
.
, ,
322 U NI VE R S A L T R A VELL E R .
A us T R rA , BOH E MI A ,
T HE T Yl t O L
,
&c .
h imsel f, at the council o f Trent, was sustained by the counc i l ,

i n pr o n o uncing it to be the best o f wines C onsiderable q uan .
ti ties o f rosoglio are c o nsumed , and also o f Maraschi n o , a

c ordial m ade o f acid cherries T hese are made c h iefi y i n Dal .
m atia , where there is distilled als o a spirituous liquor , fr om the

arbute tree T he Dalm atians are given to e x cess in the us e
.
o f spiri tuous liquors T obacco is universally used in smoking;

.
and as snu ff .
“In Hun ary there are inns but they a fford lit tle besides
,
shelte r ; e n gei the tra veller h as frequently to p u rchase his pro
visi o ns at the large to w n s T he post coach e s are o ft en b ut .
-
carts and generally the facilities fo r travelling are fe w

, ,
.
“Hungary may be considered the home o f the Gypsies but

,
even here that singular race have the same restless wanderi n g ,
disposition that disti nguishes them elsewhe re They are the .
travelling ti nkers and m usicians a n d when they h ave a set

i led or a tempor ary residence it is in summer a cave or a
'
, , ,
tent and in wi nter a b u t like the den o f a wild beast from

, , ,
which the light is excluded T he most usual tra d es followed .
b y the Gypsies are th ose o f black and white smiths though

, ,
they act as farriers carpenters and turners T hey are uni ,
.
'
“
,
,
v er s ally the executi o ners a n d the han gmen .
12 . AU S T RI A BOHEMI A , ,
T HE T Y ROL ,
&c .
T h at part o f the A u strian empire which we prop ose at thi s

t ime to survey consists o f a number o f S tates m ost o f which
, ,
h ave d i s tinct constitutions that gi v e a kind o f modification to
th e absol u te mo n archy w hi c h the e s ror other wi s e pos
’
'
sesses T hese S tates in order are

. T he A r c h dut c h y o f ,
A ustri a ; 2 T he Dutchy o f S tyria ; 3 T he K ingdom o f Illyria
4 T he Tyrol ; 5 T he K ingdom o f Bohemia ; 6 T he Mar
,
a
, , ,
graviate o f M ora via a n d A ustri an S ilesia ; 7 T he Kingdom , ,

o f Galicia .
T h e Op u la ti o n b elon g in g to these several S tat es i s conside

r ab ly i v er s i fi e d In A ustria Proper, the established rel i gi on
.
i s R o man C a th o i c , but all sect s are tolerated T he Germa n

'
langua ge is used by the A ustrians ; the S cla v o m c is s p o ken in

Bohem i a , Moravia , and Galicia E duc ation i s in a low state . .
T he higher classes are indeed intelligent especially at Vienna

“
, ,
and most o f the people at large are able to r e ad and write .
But A u strian literature has no claim to celebrity T he art s .
and sciences except music are in ferior to those o f many

, ,
other countries In music the names o f Haydn and Mozart

,
. ,
whose powers and taste were formed at Vienna the ca p ital o f ,
t he empire ar e su ffi cient to esta bli sh the national fame

,
.
0 Goo dr ch i ’
s U nivers al G eogr ap h y .
U NIVE R S A L T RAVE L L E R . 32 3
CH AR ACT E R OF T HE I N H A B IT AN T S .
T he A ustrians are ingenious in respect to mechan ical inve n

ti ons but they seem disposed to direct their powers to grati fy .
the fancy rather than to promote the purposes o f practical

utility T he invention o f a machine or puppet c apable o f
.
, ,
per forming the functions o f an expert chess player or o f o ne -
,
that can imitate the various s ou nds o f the human voice a n

'
,
ear to be m ore within the compass o f the ir genius th an the ,
o ily conce ptions o f Fulton Whitne y Watt or A rkwright , , ,

.
T he A ustrians generally speakin g are a handsome athletic

, , ,
race co mpos ed fo r the m o st part o f Germ an m ate rials but

, , , ,
mixed with the di fferent inh abita nts o f Hun ary Italy and , ,
Bohemi a Hence the darker complexion older fe atures
.
, ,
b l acker eyes and more animated expressio n o f the A ustri an
, ,
th an o f the German countenanc e .
The A us tri an c h aracter also pa rtakes o f the grand German

outline in which sinc erity fidelity in d u s tr y a n d a love o f o r
, , , t
der are c ons picuous ; but these valuable qualities a re o ft en

,
c ounteracted by a predilection fo r sen s ual pursuits and a ,
b lind adherence to old customs T heir sensuality however .
, ,
n ever enervates them ; fo r they c a n rush from the ball or the
’
b anquet into the field o f battle and there enj oy the terrors o f ,
war no les s th an the pleasures from which it h as called them
With great physical vigor and ardent lo ve o f ple asure are
.
, ,
combined the most astonishing sel f command forbearance -
, ,
and good nature Quarrels even among pe rsons intoxica ted
.
,
with spirituous liquors scarcely ever attain any height even , ,
in words ; blows are not heard o f in m any to wns durin g a
whole year ; and ma iming or murder on such oc c asions is , ,
totally unkno wn .
T he A ustrian women in point o f beauty are excelle d by no , ,

fem ales in E urope the Briti s h only excepted ; in m anners
, ,
t h ey are elegant and in convers ation lively and well in formed
, , .
Previously to m arriage they enj oy a greater degree o f free ,
d om than the s ame c las s do in France and s ome others o f the ,

m ore southern c ountries o f E urope ; and subsequently they
are as d istinguished by an as siduous fulfilment o f all the
relative duties o f li fe Domestic disquietudes are rare e s pe
.
,
c i a lly among the lower classes
; the care o f children h abi ts ,
o f labor and attendance on divine worship seem to occupy all
, ,
their thoughts .
Vienna the capita l o f all A ustri a is the centre and seat o f

, ,
pl eas ure and amusement A late wri ter h as pronounced the .
“
inh abitants o f thi s city to be the most devoted fri ends o f j o
v mh ty ple a sure and good living and mo r e bitter enemies o f
, , ,
every thing like c are or thinking a more eating drink ing good , , ,
nature d i ll educated hospitable and langhin people than
,
-
, , ,
any other o f G ermany or perhaps o f Euro pe T heir cli
, , ,
.
mate and s oil he adds the corn and wine with which Heaven
, ,
h a s b lessed them exempt them from any very a n xi o us de r ee
g
R uss e l l ’
s To ur is t .
324 UN IVER S AL T RAVELL E R .
A U S TRI A , BOH EMI A, T HE TY R O L
pf thought about their own wants ; and the government with ,

i ts spi es and police takes most e ffectu al care that their gayety
,
s hall not b e disturbed by thinking o f the pub lic necessities or
,
s tudying fo r the public w e al In regard to themselves they .
,
are distinguishe d by a love o f p l e asure in regard to stranger s
by great kindn ess and hospitality It is di fficult to bring an .
A u st r ian to a downright quarrel with you and it is almo st ,

equally di ffic ult to prevent him from injuring your health by
g o od living .
In Vi enna with th r ee hun dred thousand inh abi tant s ther e

, ,
are thirty booksellers four cir cu lating libraries six ty fi v e , ,
-
piano forte makers five theatres and dancing halls without

, ,
-
n umber M any o f these dancing halls are institutions fo r in

.
-
famous purp oses T he y belong to private p r o p ri etors w h o

.
,
a r e always inn kee p ers On the evenin g o f every S unday
-
.
,
an d generally o f every great religiou s festival when every ,
b ody is idle and seeking amu sement the se congregations are
, ,
open in the suburbs as well as in the city The balls given in
,
.
them are less or more a worthless pretext fo r brin ging wort h '
les s persons together T he pric e o f admission is extremely .
low fo r the scoundrelly landlor d s p eculates on the c o n s u m p

,
t ion o f wi n e and eatables duri ng the evening In m o re c as e s .
t han o n e the o b ject i s s o little concealed that females are a d

,
m itted gratis It is t hus that these institutions by furnishing
.
,
oppor tunity and infla m in g the pa s sions at so c h e ap a rate
, ,
d i ff us e the poison o f licentiousnes s am ong the m ales o f t h e
middle and l ower orders .
A ustria is an absol ute m onarchy and every p ossible means ,

is taken to secure the dependance o f the people on the govern ~
m ent an d to prevent all innovation on, or discussion o f poli
, ,
tical institutions Y et the Jaws in A ustria a r e mild and th e
.
,
administration o f th em j ust Durin the C ongress o f L ayb a c h .

,
th e em p eror said to th e teachers 0 a public seminary I want ,
n o learned men ; I need no l e arned men ; I want m en who wil l

”
do what I bid them or something to the same purpose the —
, ,
most un fortun ate words fo r the honor o f his throne that could ,
b e put in the mouth o f a monarch T he principle is h i lly .
acted o n in Vienna ; over all knowledge and all thinkin g , ,
on every thing public and on every thing relating to the pol i ti

,
c al events and institutions not only o f the empire but o f a ll , ,
“
other c o un tries there bro o ds a darkness which m ay b e felt
,
n owhere will you find a mo r e l amentable i o r a n c e or a more ,
m elancholy horror o f bei n g suspected o a desire to be W i se

ab ove What i s written down by the editor o f the A ustrian O b
s e rver .N othing is known bu t to offi cial men ; and the firs t
o ffi ci al duty is to confine all knowled ge within t h e o fii m a l c rr «
c le. T alk to a Vien n ese ab out the finances fo r example ,
Wh at i s the amount o f the public revenue ? I d o n t kno w ’

.
W a is
h t done with i t Z I don t know Ho w much d oes y ou r
’
.
’
.
a rmy c o s t Z I don t kno w How much does th e civi l ad m m

' ’
. .
is tr atio n c o s t ? I do n t know What is th e amount o f you r

’
.
326 NIV ER S A L T RAVELLER U .
A U S TRI A BOHE MI A T HE TY R O L , , .
l and and devote it to agricult ure

,
A fter all however they .
, ,
a r e obliged to import corn T he bowels o f the eart h ar e .
m ore productive ; eve r y species o f ore from gol d to coa be , .

,
»
i n g found there ; b u t comparatively fe w are wrought Mineral .
S prings are common Vineyards are numerous particularly .

,
i n the valley o f the A dige T he natives cultivate fruit trees ; .
a n d fro m the forest they rear silkworms and ex port raw , ,

s il k
. T he transi t trade b etwe en I t aly and Germ any forms a ,
m ost ext ensive and lucrative branch o f commerce .
T hey are a singularly i n dus t r i ous people T hey cannot b e .
s aid to possess any m anu fact o ries but every Tyrolean is a ,
m anu facturer T here is little di vi son o f labor A family or

. .
a n individual is obli ed to do every thing fo r himsel f else his ,

fe w wants could not e easily supplied A nd recourse is b a d .
to the most ingenious m odes o f fabricating the articles o f which

they stand in need Do they require flour or stand in need
.
,
o f o il Z A s every individual provides in some r e spec ts fo r his

’
.
o wn wants there are neither millers nor oil mills ; but at the
,
n eigh b oring stream the corn is ground and the oleaginous, ,

pla n ts are pressed ” A German traveller observes .
“ that to , ,
abridge labor he h as seen a child rocked in its cradle by
,
”
means o f a wheel m ade to revolve by a stream .
T he people have a thirst fo r independence and i f they can

n o t find emplo y ment a t home they do not hesitate to emigrate ,
to other countries to gain a livelihood B avaria or the neigh .
,
bo r ing province s which is their earliest outlet do not satis fy
-
,
them T hey emigrate to the most distant countries to E n g
.
,
l and A meric a or the E ast In d ies generally as pedlers selling

, , , ,
petty wares T hirty thousand are calculated to leave th eir
.
n ative land annually T hey return however in old age hav .

, , ,
i n g amas s e d a little stock to enable them to spend the even ,

i n o f th e ir days in comparative independence
o T he music .
0 the Tyrolese has been long celebrated fo r its simple and

plaintive character In other respects they are distinguished .
,
by the characteristics comm on in their circumstances ; loyalty ,
l ove o f country bravery frankness h ospitality uncorrupted

, , , ,
m orals superstition religion
,
T hey are all Roman Catholics
,
.
,
w ith t h e exception o f eig h t or ten Jewish families Their lan .
guage is German Tyrol c annot boast o f a university b ut .

,
there are various Lyceums Gymnas i a and other seminaries , , ,
w here every branch o f education is taught *

.
13 . GERM A N Y .
Ge rmany politically contains thirty three states besid es -
~
, , ,
four cities which together
,
with A ustria and Prussia,
are u n i ,
ted in a con fed eration and h ave a federati ve diet in whi c h , ,
N ew Ed nburgh Encyc op ed ai l i .
U NIV E R S A L T RAVELLER .
H AN O VE R I A N S — S AX O N S— B AVARIAN S .
a ll the states are re pr e sented and by which their a ffairs ar e ,
r egulated a c c o r din to a writt en compact By this compac t .

,
the states a gree to e fen d each other from foreign hostilities
not to make war on each other but to submit their di fference s ,
t o the diet— not to contract engage ments contr ary to the se

c u r i ty o f the con federation — to allow full religio us tolerati o n
to the citize ns o f every state s o T here are se ve nteen vote s ,
.
in t h e diet each o f the large r states having one and two or ,
m ore o f the s m aller state s united in the eger c is e o f a singl e

,
vote A ustri a presides in the diet

. .
C on federate Germany contains a populati on exceedin g

thirty millions but excluding A ustria and Prussia Germany
, ,
c ontains s omething more th an twelve millions T he pr incipal .
o f the G erman S tates are B avaria S axony Hanover W ur te m , , ,

b ur Baden Holstein Hesse D armstadt a nd He sse C as sel
, , ,
.
T us separated into distinct communities some variety ,

m ay be suppos ed to exist among the Germ an s but the d if ,
fe r e n c e s are les s th an a stranger would anticipate In gen s
e ral the Germ ans ar e h ardy and robus t with light h air and
, ,
c omplexions and blue eyes especially in the north T he
, ,
.
personal appearance o f the inh abitan ts o f some o f the princi

pal states may he re be m ore particularly but briefly noti ced
, ,
.
T he Ha n ver i a ns are represented as tall fa ir and well

o , ,
m ade T he women have fine complex ions fair h air and in
.
, ,
m any ins tance s a de li c acy o f fe ature and symmetr y o f for m
, ,
th at would riva l the grea test beauties o f other countri es .
T hey have a to uc h in voice and a re modest but less timid , ,

t han English women e c a u se less accustomed to meet their
,
s uperiors among the men .
T he S ax ons bear a gene ral resembl ance to th e o ther Ger

mans but are more live ly and animated T he men are robust
, .
,
a n d frequently well made ; and the women are o ften h and
s ome with fair complexions blue eyes and a sprigh tline s s o f
, ,
,
e xpression in their countenances which is not very commo n
,
with Germ an females T heir l ikeness to the E nglish is muc h
.
g reater than in most other parts o f the continent .
The B a va r i a ns are stout and vigoro us well a dapted to bear ,

th e fatigues o f war and in general are good sol diers
,
Many .
o f the women ar e h andsome lively a n d grace ful ; but their

, ,
c harms are merely personal : mental cul tivat i on is at a very
lo w ebb among them ; a nd they are strongly a ddicted to
pleasures and trifling purs uits .
said by tr avelle rs to exc eed in c o m

T h e G er m a n h o us es are
fort any other urope Few carpets co ver the ir fl oors
in E . .
But there is genera ly in the win ter s eason a good stove

l ,
wh ch send orth its warm and agreeable heat T he Germ a n
i s f .
beds however are

, , less com fortable than thos e which th e
fa r
tra velle r finds in France T hey are universally narro w .
,
adapted to a single person an d so short that it is frequently ,
n ec ssary to sp ice th em
e l “A s soon as th e frost m ak es its
.
UN IV E R S A L TR A V E LL E R .
G E RMAN Y .
ap e ar a n c e ,
”
o b serves Mr Dwight in his Travels land .
* “th e
,
la y surprises you wit h another bed whic h sh e carr ies int o ,
your room and throws it upon the top o f yours as a s ub s ti
, ,
t ut e fo r bl ankets A s this is never more than five feet long
.
,
all the sons o f Anak o f the present ge n eration must splic e , ,
this also or h ave a part o f the b o dy in the tr o pic s a n d th e

, ,
rest in a polar atmosphere A s it i s i m possible to move i n .
your sleep without the bed or the blankets rolling o ff it is ,

necessary to fa s ten them d o wn with an additional covering
l ar ge e n ou h to em br ac e the m a ll C o m ple te ly to arrange .
your bed or repose at night (fo r th e d a n ge r o f every thin g ,

’
ab ove y o u b eing thr o w n o ff by the first mo tion is so great , ,

that you a r e unwilling to trust your servant without ocular
examination ) require s as much time as was necessary som e
,
thirty months since to tack about our good shi p the Lewis , , ,
when beating against a he ad wind In fact ther e is so littl e .
,
com fort here at ni gh t th a t as m i d night approaches y o u wis h
, ,
yoursel f in Par is m Italy or in the moo n while as soon a s
, , ,
you arise the genial temperatur e o f your ro o m enables you
,
to forget all these evils T hey tell a story o f an Irishm an .
tr avelling s o me winter s since in Germany who seeing anoth

er be d place d ab ove h is o wn c on c l ude d tha t it m ust be th e
,
,
custom here to sleep in layers o n e above anoth er A s no o n e ,
.
came he rang the bell and directed the servant to tell th e

, ,
gentleman who was t o lie on t o p that being very sleepy h e , ,
would thank him to come soo n to bed as h e di d n ot like to be ,
disturbed a fter h e h ad fallen a sleep ”
Th Ge r m an s a r e excee d ingly fond o f t i t les A mo n g th e

e .
n obility there are fou r classes v iz : Prince Count Baron and

, ,
.
, , ,
Herr Von T h e latter correspo n ds to the French B e In
. .
addressing fo r ex a mple a Co u nt y ou w o ul d say to the High

, , , ,
Well b or n Co un t C ou n t of
-
I f you addres s a citizen y o u
, ,
direct to th e w ell bor n M r M r S K ci t iz en I f you address a
-
.
,
.
,
.
lett e r to a me chanic you direct t o th e r esp ect a bly w ell bo r n

,
-
;
M r ,
. Mr t ai lor or s h o em a ker
. T o a peasant you say to
,
.
,
th e tol er a b ly bor n Mr .
,
Mr .
p ea s a n t .
Ifyou inquire a fter a P ro fessor Doc t or Lawyer o r Minis , , ,

t r you pr efix t o each o f the se titles the name Mr
e
,
S hould .
you inquire fo r the ladies o f these gentlem e n you ask fo r Mrs ,

.
o r th e L a d y Pro fessoress or the Lady Lawyeress & c

‘
.
, ,
In P r us s i a wh e n tw o p e rso ns are e n g a ged to b e m arried
, ,
th e engagement i s a n nounce d in a p ub li c ne wspaper T hus .
I have the honor r espect fully to gi ve no tic e o f the betroth

in g o f my only daughter to Mr o f N e w s te a d Judge o f ,
.
,
th e dom ain .
S igned T h e widowed C o u n s ell o r e s s o f Justi c e

,
A s betrothed present their remembrance to A melia
E DW AR D
* Tr avels in th e nor th o f Germ any, by Hen ry E D wigh t . .
330 U N IV E R S A L TR A VEL L ER .
GER M AN Y .
s oon as they h ave taken their seats in an arbor the mother ,

and daughters unroll their hal f fi n is h e d sto ckin gs and kni t -
,
away w ith an ardor that almost leads you to bel i eve you a r e
i n a school o f indu s t ry rat h er t h a n a p lac e o f fes t ivity
,
T her e .
is so m ething almos t ludicr ous i n t h is attachment o f the G e t “
m ans to knitti ng T o see fifty or a hundred girls hal f hid in

.
,
arbors with bright rosy cheeks and laughing eyes b usily e n
, ,
gaged i n taking up stitche s and making the circ ui t o f their
,
stock in gs while as many young fellows are rallying them o r
, ,
perhaps sa y ing things almost unutterable is a spectacle which ,
is visi b le in no country but Germany T h is c u stom is not .
confin e d t o the m id dl ing class es E ven th e daught ers o f .
her r von s and baron s may be s e en thus o ccupied with hug e

stockings dangling at their fingers .
A s a co unterpart to the industry o f the fem ales in the above

p articular is the smoking propensity o f the ot he r sex
,
.
G er m an may be al mo st said to be born with a pipe in

mouth at l east he is se ld o m without o n e a fter he is born I t .
is their constant compan i on whi le at h o m e and abroad T he .
peasant as commonly takes his pipe to th e fie ld as the tool s

with which he la b o rs and o ften labors as diligently with t h e
,
one as the other .
D a n ci n g is a favorite and a com m on amusement It is r e .
m arked by Mr Dwight that the Ge r m ans h ave a stronger a t

.
t a c h m en t t o thi s e x ercise t h an even th e Fren ch R o yal per .
s o n a ges do not dance b u t p o lo n a i s e i n a light airy s te p b e

,
tween a dance and a walk T he waltz is a natio n al dance.
,
and originated in this country O ften in the same danc e .
,
mothers un ite with d a n gh t e r s a n d fa the r s with sons In thei r
,
.
m otions the German s a r e less gra c e ful than the French .
A nother amusement whic h is h ighly valued in G er m any i s

the ch a s e T his however is confined to the royal family and
.
t h e no b ility T he right o f the chase is v ested in th e king o r

.
,
in t no s e who have purc h ased th e privilege N o one who h a s .
n o t purchased the r ight not e ven an inv i ted c ompanion may

, ,
at any time sh oot an animal Th e cha s e o f the wild boar is a

.
favorite amusement o f the G e rman princes On such occ a .
sions they are usually attended b y a large cavalcade o f coaches ,
w h o a r e e rrp e c te d to witnes s the monarch s prow e ss T hat ’

- .
prowess is us a a lly displayed when at len th th e huntsma n ,
has worn out and wou nded the e x h a u s te a n imal by h is ‘
a lighting from his ch arger an d taki n g a long kni fe w ith whic h ,

he pierces the yet palpitating heart o f his vi ctim .
T he following are the rem arks o f the writer wh o m we h av e ,

h ad o ccasion to quote respecting the cu r i os i ty o f the G ermans ;
,
and from their inquisitive propensities it m ay well be in ferred

that the dispo sition to ask questions to u ching one s country ’
,
p ro fession & e ,
is n o.t wholly
,
c onfine d to t h e Ya nkees ; He
“
says I have never held five minutes conversation with a
,
F r en ch man or Ita lia n; at least wi th th o se o f the m id dl e cla s s

IV E R S AL T RAVEL L E R
'
U N 33 1 .
I N Q U I S ITIV E N E SS— M U S IC .
o f society without being questioned as to my country my c c

, ,
c u p a tio n &c ,
In Germany these questi ons are put to y o u
.
les s frequently but still so o ften as to remind you that inquisi

,
tive n es s is n o t con fi ned to our villages T he form o f addres s .
is always the same You are an E nglishman I su p pose No . .
A S cotchman perhaps ? N 0 You must be an Irishman

,
.
,
then I am not Y o u are not a Frenchman Certainly .
not A re o n an Italian ? No You must be an E nglish

.
’
man then [ neve r was in E n gland A re you a S p aniard

,
. .
,
or Portuguese ? N 0 You are neither Greek nor Turk ? No . .
Oh ! I kno w now ; you are a Russian I have never been in

Russia A re you from the north o f E urop e I am not Y o u
. .
must be an A siatic then ? I have never seen A sia You ,

.
cannot be an A frican ? No By this time they arrive at the .
u l t i m a t h u l e o f their recollection and looking round at their ,

companions i f there are any pre s ent with an expression o f
, ,
wonder and then at me with a ga z e o f astonishment ; they
, ,
ei ther declare that I am from the moon or with great earnest ,
ness inquire from what part o f t h e world I have come S o m e .
times I tell them th at I have come from the moon which they ,
s eem hal f inclined to believe ; or when I mention my co untry ,
they exhibit as much surpri se as if a lu n a r i a n had really de
sce nded to the earth ” .
Next to the Italians the Germ ans are the most success ful
cultivators o f m us i c For eminent composers they are per .
h aps u nrivalled T heir musical compositions are more l a .
bored than those o f the Italians and imbody more science ,

.
Fully to appreciate the higher orders o f German music a

“
,
cultivated taste is essential but to those who are capable o f ,
ap p reciating its ex cellence it is a source o f the highest enj oy ,
ment Both in Russia and A ustria military music is carried
.
,
to the highest per fection In vocal m u sic the Italians are .
thought by some to excel the Germans but the latter are de ,

c id e d ly superior to the French and indeed to all the northern
,
nations o f E urope In several parts o f Germ any particularly .
,
i n S axony and in some o f the districts o f Bohemia peasants
, ,
may be found who are accomplished practitioners on the
guitar and piano A lm ost every large city supports several .
bands o f music and in most o f the towns sin ging boys are , ,
wholly or partially m aintained by the citizens to sing at fune
rals and at public worship .
A mong the most cele b rated G erman composers may be

ranked Handel Haydn Mozart B eethoven Weber S pontini , , , , , ,
a n d S pohr O f these Mozart is considered t h e prince ; B e e
.
,
th o ve n ranks ne x t T his eminent man is still living and .
,
strange as it may seem is so dea f that no music str ikes his ,

ear besides the loud swell o f the m ilitary bands or that o f the ,
orchestra .
In p a i n tin g and cu lp tu r e the Germans do not compare with s
some other nations but their literature is rich Few if any , .

G ERMA N Y .
countries have furnished men o f greater intellectual wealth

than P u fi en d o r f; K lopstock Wieland S chiller G oethe Rich
'
, , , ,
ter Lessing Leibnitz Werner Herder the S chlegels E ichorn
, , , , , , ,
Kant Hu m boldt Herschel and Kepler
, , ,
.
I n th e m ea n s the north o f Germany fa r sur

f
o ed u c a ti o n ,
passes every other country T h e P rotest ant S tates are more .
enlightened than the Catholic and in S axony there is hardly ,

a peasant that cannot read and write In P russia there are .
,
U pwar ds o f 2 0000 elementary schools T he gymnasia o f the .
n orth o f G ermany are celebrated ; they are schools prepara

tory to the universities ; but the studie s pursued in them are
equal to those o f the universities in some countries T h e .
gymnastic exercise s are purs ued in some though in the most ,

they are discontinued T he universities o f Germ any are the .
best in the world T hey have students from every E uropean

.
nation and from A merica T he university o f G ottingen

,
.
,
though it has been established but about a century holds the ,
first rank ; but the universities o f Berlin Jena Halle and Leip , , ,
zig are celebrated In 1 8 26 there were in the German uni

,
.
,
v e r s iti es ,
students and 9 27 instructors A t Berlin ,
.
,
there were 1 52 6 s tudents at Halle 1 1 1 9 at G ottingen 1 54 5 , , , , ,
and at Leipzig 1 384 T he smallest number out o f 2 0 univer
,
.
sities was 2 1 4 T he instructions are given in a gr at meas

,
.
, e
ure by lectures and one pro fessor o ft en lectures o n s ever a l

, ,
subj ects T he libraries are the best and most extens ive in the
.
world and any student may take out many books at a time ,
a hundred if he will T he li b raries contain all that is v alu a .
ble in ancient or modern science T he library at G ottingen .
contains volumes all collected in less than a cen t ury ,

.
N orth o f the Mayne it is di fficult to travel fo r a day without ,

finding a library ; at C arlsr uhe is one o f volumes ; at ,
the distance o f a few hour s ride is another at Heidelberg o f
’
, , ,
volumes A t the distance o f 30 miles is a third at
.
, ,
Darmsta d t o f 9 0000 volumes ; at Mentz is another o f

,
and another still at Frank fort o f T hirty miles from ,
Frank fort is a small l ibrary o f

,
volumes but at Mar ,
burg 20 miles further is one o f
,
A t C assel the library
, ,
contains volumes and from this town the traveller may ,
arrive in a day at Gottingen where he finds a collection o f ,

books and at Wol fenbuttel about forty m iles distant , ,
is another o f A t Hamburg are t w o libraries one o f ,
th e other o f volumes A t We imar is another .

,
library o f vol u m es ; and at Jena a second o f ,
Dresden has one o f vol umes ; B erlin another o f

a n d Munich one o f the greatest T hirty one l ibra ,
-
ries in Germany contain m ore than volumes or on ,

an average each T he thirty one largest li b raries in
,
.
-
the U nited S tates do not contain volumes .
“T he Germans are inde fatigable students and m any o f the

,
,
learned have devoted fi ft een hours daily to study T he stu ,
.
G E RM A N Y .
d ressed like the comb atants : they stand by the side o f their
p rincipals and are permitted
,
to ward o ff the blows T h e .
combatants sometimes lose an eye or a nose many have sc ar s ,

in their faces and some are miserably hacked
,
.
“T he L a n d s m a n n s ch a t are the nurseries o f duel ling eac h

f
club being exceedin gly tenacious o f its own dignity Fencing .
,
very improperly makes a part o f the university instruction
,
.
A ll the d etails o f the duel are fixed i n the Com m en t or B ur .
,
schen
Th e m od e in Germany by public conveyance
f
o t r a velli n g ,
both in respect to speed and expense is in ferior even to that ,
o f France and altogether so to that o f E ngland and A mer
,
ica T he S ch n ellu a g en which is the quickest carriage a o
.
, ,
c o m m o d a te s but six persons inside and t w o out and usually ,
proceeds but six miles an h our In some parts co aches go .
,
but little more than three miles an hour T runks and other .
,
baggage are conveyed in a species o f lumber wagon In the

,
.
French diligence six horses would c arry twenty persons with

,
one postillion whereas in P russia to convey the same num
,
ber o f passengers you must employ the S chnell Wagen three
, ,
carriages and a lumber wagon with a dri ver and a u ar d

, ,
.
T he former c arriage an d the lumber wagon h ave e a o four ,

horses the others two Hence to convey twenty persons
,
.
,
fourteen horses are ne c essary a conducteur a postillion four , , ,
drivers and a guard In France six horses a conducteur
,
.
, ,
and one postillion co n vey the same number o f passengers ,
besides merchandise su ffi cient to meet hal f o f th e expe nse o f
th e line .
14 . NE T HERL A ND S .
T his countr y consists o f two very distinct portions : HO L

L a gm in the north and B E L G I U M in the south ; which together
,
are called Netherlands or Low C ountries from their fi a t sur , ,

face and low situation ; m any o f the towns and villages be i n g -
below the level o f the neighboring sea but preser ved from ih ,
un d ation by the persevering industry o f the inhab i tants T h e .
o v e r n m e n t is a constitutional monarchy with a considerabl e ,

e gr e e o f resemblance to that o f Great Britain
’
In Holland the established religion is C hristianity o f the ,
C alvinistic form ; but the Belgians are o f the Roman Catholi c

persuasion .
The Dutch lan guage (fo r so is the dialect o f the Holl a nders
c alled ) is a kindred tongue to the Germ an copious though , ,
u ncouth and in need o f improvement T he Flemish or
,
.
,
G oodr ch i ’
s U niver s al G eograp hy ,
U NIVER S AL T RAVELLER .
P ER SO NA L C H A R A CT E RI S TIC S .
language the Belgians di ffers in some respects from th e

of ,
Dutch but not so much as to prevent the natives from under
,
s tanding eac h other French is generally S poken p a r tic

.
,
ul ar ly in th e south where it has superseded the native tongue
, ,
except with the lower classes E ducation is greatly pro .
moted in this kingdom T he Dutch take the lead o f the Bel .
gi ans in literature ; and both have produced painters o f the first

celebrity .
T he people o f Holland m ay be divided into t h e followi ng

classes : the clowns or boors who cultivate the land ; the mar
, ,
i n er s or skippers wh o navigate the ships and inland boats ;
, ,
th e m erchants and tra d ers who fill the town s the r en t een er s , ,
or men that also live in towns upon the rents o f their estates ; ,
and the gentlemen officers o f the army and navy magistrates

, , ,
&c . T he boors feed chie fly on herbs roots and milk T he , ,
.
other classes drink enormous quantities o f tea and co ffee or , ,

m ore properly speaking o f lukewarm water scarcely c olored , .
A great quantity o f spirituo us liquors are als o drank ;

ankers o f G en eva being annually consumed in the province
o f Holland T he class o f gentlemen or nobles is very limited ;
.
,
most o f the families having been extinguished in the long wars
with S pain .
T h e D u t ch ar e g en er inclineda lly b elo w th e m i d d le s t a t u r e,

to
“
corpulency and remarkable , a heavy awkward mien fo r .
T he women says Pro essor illiman h ave very fine f S “

, ,
complexions probably the finest in the world ; their skins are
,
o f a v ery pure and beauti ful white w ith less redundancy o f ,
rouge than the E nglis h women p ossess but generally they , ,
fail in expression and resemble fine wax work ,
T hey -
.
wear close caps and gowns with long waists and their whole
, ,
dress being o f the s ame stamp gives them a prec ise and ,
form al appearance T he fashionable ladies however gen ~
.
, ,
e r a lly appear much as in E n land but fashion has very little
to d o in Holland ; and it is p r o § ab le that the dres s o f the Dutch

,
is now substantially the same that it was in the time o f the Duke
o f A lva .
The pers on s o f the la d i es are too short and robust fo r beau

ty. T he women among the peasantry make a most grotesque ,
appearance T hey wear very large hats o f straw nearly as

.
,
large a s an u mbrella and fanci fully adorned with pictures o f
,
stars birds beasts & c T heir waists are o f extravagant

, , ,
.
len gth and the rest o f their dress is stu ff ed and padded out to
,
a S i ze that mocks all proportion ; their petticoats are very short ,

and they wear wooden shoes with high heels T he m e n also .
wear wooden shoes and their dress is o f the same style with
,
th at o f the women T hey are fond o f having a gre at m any
.
buttons on their clothes ; they are o f a most extraordina r y size

and are figured with rude ,
’
4 S illim an s Jo urn al
336 U NIVER S AL T RAVELLER .
N E T H E RL AN DS .
. Of th e ch a r a cter is ti c m a n n er s a n d cus toms o f the people o f

Holland we can only mention a fe w T o every house through
, .
out North Holland there are two doors ; one o f which is never
O pened but when a corpse or a christening is carried from the
house while the other serves fo r the ordinary purposes o f the
,
family this custom is peculiar to North Holland T he .
houses in almos t every part o f the province have a gay appear

ance ; the windows and doors are generally painted green T he .
m ost scrupulous cleanliness is practised respecting them ; not

only the windows but the whole front o f the house in most
, ,
o f t h e towns is generally W ashed two or three times a week
, ,
by engines fo r that purpose which are abundantly supplied ,
with water from the c anals ; and the same care is e x tended to
the pavement o f the streets in whic h the more op ulent inb ah
i ta n ts reside A Dutch house in the o ld style o f building such
.
, ,
as are seen in Leyden more particularly is generally six sto ,
ries high the thr ee first o f which are o f an equal breadth but
, ,
o f uneq u al heights ; from the third story the roo f rises to a point , ,
and the rooms in this part o f the house necessarily diminish in
size as they approach to the top o f the building T he front .
wall o f the upper apartments proj ects so much from the roo f
as nearly to hide it u n less viewed in profile ; and the e x terior
,
o f each room diminishes till that o f the attic s tory is two thirds
,
less than the basement T o the aperture o f the uppermost .
room is commonly fi x ed a small crane fo r the convenience ,
o f hoisting up wood and tur f and these cranes sometimes have ,

grotesque figures c arved upon them In the lar ge and com .
m e r c i a l towns it frequently happens that apartments that

,
would grace the mansions o f a prince h ave no other Vi ew , ,
from their windows than the dead walls o f a warehouse used

, ,
as a magazine fo r stock fi s h skins tobacco & c so that the -
, , ,
.
eye may turn from the works o f R ubens and T itian t o these
disagreeable and disgusting obj ects .
T he custom o f smoking is so prevalent in Holland that a ,

genuine Dutch boor instead o f describing the distances o f,
places by miles or hours says they are so many pipes asunder ,
T hus a man m ay reach D elft from Rotterdam in four pipes ,
but if he goes on to the Hague he will smoke sev during the ,
j ourney A dj o in in to their theatre is a room

. ere re fresh
ments are to be s o l and here the lovers o f tobacco resort to ,
smoke their pipes between the acts T heir rigid attention to .
cleanliness and bigoted attachment to smoking j ointly give

, ,
rise to a most inconvenient and disgusting custom A fter din .
ner there is placed on the table along with the wine and
, ,
glasses a spitting pot which is h anded round as regularly as
, ,
the bottle A ll Dutchmen o f the lower classes o f s ociety an d
.
'
,
not a fe w in the higher walks o f li fe carry in their pocket the ,
whole apparatus that is necessary fo r smoking : a box o f enor
mous size which frequently contains hal f a pound o f tobacco ;
,
a pipe o f clay or ivory according to the fancy or wealth o f
, ,
the posses sor ; if the latter he carries also instrumen ts to cle an ,
U NIVE R S A L T RAVELLER . 337
MAN N E RS AN D C U S T O M S .
it ; a pricker to remove obstructions from the tube o f the

p ipe ; a cover o f brass wire fo r the bowl to prevent the ashes , ,
or sparks o f the tobacco from flying o u t ; and sometimes a
,
ti nder box or bottle o f phosphorus to procure fire in case
-
, ,
none is at hand .
T he characteristics o f the D utch are patience ingenuity and , ,

pe rseverance T heir natural temperament is phlegmatic and
.
,
their labor consists rather in slow and continued application ,
than in arduous exertion T he love o f money is their ruling .
p assion and the spring o f all their actions and as they are ever
, ,
plodding u pon ways and means to get it no people are so u n ,
so ciable T hey will rarely step one inch out o f their way to
.
save from inconvenience those whom they do not know ; and ,

on the other hand they never lose a moment in the grati fication
,
o f malice the indul gence o f envy or the assumpt i on o f those

, ,
petty triumphs which in other countr ies fill li fe with much un
,
necessary misery .
T h e g en er a l ch a r a c t er of th e B elg ia ns is much
less fixed than
that o f the Dutch T heir situation brings them more im m e di
.
ately into contact with the French : and a considerable portion

o f the vivacity o f that volatile people has been ingra fted upon
the gravity o f the original stock T he most striking fea t ure .
in their national character is an extravagant fon d ness fo r re ,

li gi o us ceremonies and processions .
T h e lo w er p a r t is lined with white

f
o th e h ou s es i n Holla n d
D utch tiles ; and some o f the rooms are paved with small
square tiles put to gether without cement T he kitchen fur n i
,
.
ture in copper pewter and iron a ffords a striking proo f

, , , ,
o f the mistress s regard to neatnes s and cleanlines s which
’
, ,
however is too frequently bestowed U pon her furniture more
,
studiously than upon her person T he beds and tables are .
co v ered with the finest linen the rooms are adorned with pic ,
tures and the yards and gardens with flowers T he rooms
, .
are warmed by mea n s o f stoves placed beneath or around the ,

apartments so as to render the heat equal on all sides T he
, .
females have little stoves or pans o f burning peat which they , , ,

put into a sq uare box under their feet ; a n d persons o f con ~
dition take these with them to church or on visits , .
T he d i et o f the Dutch boors is usually coarse consisting o f ,

roots herbs sour milk and pulse In town s the common
, , ,
.
,
people fare better A ll rank s are fond o f butter ; and a j our
.
ney is seldom undertaken without a butter box in the pocket -

.
T he d i v er s i on s o f the Dutch are mostly o f the placid and r e

ti red k i nd except that o f s katin which is practised by bot h
0
s exes o f all ra nks when the cana s and rivers are frozen over
, , .
S ledge rac i ng on the ice is also much practised at that season .
In other r espects little o f the robust S to be found in their

, I
a musements .
15 . D E NM A R K .
T he p op u la ti o n o f Denmark s o m ew h at exceeds two million s .
In general the Danes are tall and robust with regular features
, , ,
florid complexions and hair inclining to yellow or red T h e
, .
females however are seldom distinguished fo r symmetry o f

, ,
sh ape or fo r taste or elegance in dress T he superior classes

, .
are fond o f m agn ificence and show and v alue themsel ves ,
much upon those titles and privileges which they purchase o f
the crown T he French fa shions are generally adopted by
.
both sexes in s u mmer ; but in winter they have recourse to ,

furs and woollen garments T hey endeavor to imitate the .
French i n their galla n try though naturally they are the very ,
contrast o f that nation The common people are neat priding .

,
themselves in d ifferent chan es o f lin e n ; and even the peasants
exhibit a neatness in their ress which seems to surpass their ,
cond ition .
Yet the D anes are not o f the most cleanly order in their
persons a n d ho u ses ; which may be owing to th eir use o f stoves ,
as m u ch as to their poverty T he cold o f winter impels the m .
to e x clu d e the fresh air as m u ch as possible from their apart

m ents ; and m any o f them during their hot summers will not , ,
lay asi d e their great co ats or other heavy g a rments -
,
.
T he Danes are d ivided into five c la s s es first the nobility : , ,

who hold privileged estates uh der the king ; secon d ly the tit ,
ular nobility which embraces the two orders o f knighthood a ll
, ,
counts and barons possessed o f privileged estates a n d all the ,
higher o fficers o f S tate civil mil itary and ecclesiastical who , , , ,

hold their nobility by virtue o f the ir o ffi ces the latter are fr e
quently purchased fo r the sole purpose o f acquiring rank
without the holders disch arging the duties they nominally in ~
,
volve or acquiring e m olument from them Thirdly the in fe

,
.
,
rior clergy lawyers and students Fourthly merchants and
, ,
.
,
citizens Fi ft hly farmers and seamen
.
,
.
T he h o u s es o f the Danes are generally o f timber ; and it i s

only in cities that any considerable portion o f brick houses is
to be m et with E ach house has a kind o f piazza be fore it
.
,
where the family o ft en sit in summer and the landlord smokes ,
his l i p e .
T h c t bles of th e r i ch a bou n d i n ever y lu u r y common to

a x
Europeans ; and even those o f the middle classes frequently

exhibit a variety o f foreign delicacies B ut the food o f the .
lower orders consists o f oatcakes rye bread fis h cheese and , , ,
other ordinary products o f the country E xcess in the us e .
o f wines and other strong liquors i s a bad characteristi c ,

” ~
o f th ese people : and a drunken D ane has become pro
v er b ia l .
T he veh i cle used fo r travelling in Den mar k is someth i ng h e

N O R WA Y .
purpose o f fixing or remo ving the valve in the roo f

th e ;
by
which the smoke escapes .
Th e ch a r a ct er f
o th e N o r w egi a ns , as a people, is more
inte r
esting and estim able than th at o f most other nations
T hei r .
expressions are clear and energetic their answers distinct and ,

correct their questions pertinent and j udicious, their r efl ec
,
tions o ft en pro fo und and intelligent beyond what could be ,
imagined in their limited opportun ities o f education T here .
is a generosity o f heart and elevati on o f mind about them

_
,
which gives to their m anners a very frank and decided stamp .
T hey speak and act in the fu ll spirit o f freemen open and ,

u ndaun ted yet never insolent in t h e presence o f the ir supe
,
riors T hey are reproached with being slow in reconciliati ons
.
,
but are obliging hospitable and liberal even to d isplay when
, , , ,
they possess the means In some o f the cities there is a cul .
,
tiv a te d style o f conversation and polish o f m anners mixe d , ,
with the high and independent spirit o f the nation which form ,
altogether an accomplished character not to be expected in ,

the remote latitudes and limited advantages o f S candinavia ;
and in some o f the inland districts where the corrupting in flu ,
ence o f c ommerce h as not reached there prevails a pure and ,
primitive spirit o f religion united with a quiet industry and , ,
do mestic retirement which are peculiarly suited to cheer th e
,
state o f poverty and privati on in wh i c h th e ir d a ys are spent .
T hey are generally animated b an ardent spirit o f patriot

ism particularly ih the city 0 D r o nt h eim which has less
, ,
dependance upon foreign connexions and may be c o ns id ,
ered as a kind o f insulated territory in which the true Nor ,
i i e gi a n character appears in all its native warmth and sim

pii c ity .
Th e f
us u a l consis
d r es s t s o
o f a w ide loos
th e e N or w eg i a ns
j acket m ade coarse cloth with a waistcoat and breeches o f
,
of ,
the sam e T heir h eads are covered with fl a p p ed hats or
.
,
c aps ornamented with ribands T hey wear shoes destitute

,
.
o f outer soles ; and in the winter leathern buskins T hey

, ,
.
h ave likewise snow shoes and long skates with which they
-
,
travel at a great pace either on land or on ice A corps o f ,
.
soldiers thus accoutred can outmarch the swi ft est horses

, ,
.
T hough their dress i s in m any respects accommodated to

,
, ,
the severity o f the climate under which they live ; yet by cus ,
tom instead o f guarding against it they seem to outbrave th e
, ,
inclemency o f the weather T he Norwe gian peasant wears a .
n eckcloth only on extraordinary occasions ; at other times ,

his neck an d breast are uncovered and the snow beats into ,
his bosom His body is girt with a broad leathern belt adorn
.
,
ed with brass plates from which depends a brass chain that ,
s ustains a large kni fe a gimlet and other tackle T he wome n

, ,
.
w ear close laced j ackets ; and their leathern girdles are d e co

r ated with silver ornaments T hey likewise wear silver chain s .
U NIV ER S A L T RAVELLER . 34 1
D I ET .
a bout their necks with gilt medals fixed at the ends ; and
,
their c aps and neckerchie fs are almost covered with small
plates o f silver brass or tin large rings and buttons A
, , , ,
.
m aiden bride appears with her hair platted and hung full o f ,
s uch jinglin trinkets as are also her clothes In g eneral

,
.
,
the dress 0 the Norwegi ans is o f a stone color W i th wh i te ,
metal buttons and red button holes ; but in this and other -
respects the inhabitants o f the several valleys o f this moun

,
t a i n o u s country vary so much from each other that a stranger , ,
seeing them assembled at the great fair o f Christiana might ,
b elieve himsel f in the midst o f a diversity f nations

o
.
the towns resembles nearly

T h e d i et of th e i n h a bi ta n ts o f
that o f the other countries in the north o f E urope ; but in the
c oun try districts peculiar modes o f living prevail A t an e h
,
.
t e r ta i n m e n t given by the better class the guests place them ,

selves a t table without etiquette and every one sits as he ,
c hooses T hey continue long at their meals but converse with

.
,
much liveliness T hey do not remain at table a fter dinner ;

.
and the constant presence o f the ladies who o ft en take the ,
lead in conversation renders their social m eetings cheer ful

,
and agreeable T heir fare is o f a very substantial nature
.
,
yet not without elegance ; and even at supper three or four ,
c ourses o f soup fowls ham fish &c follow one a ft er another

, , , ,
.
, ,
while perhaps a quarter o f veal appears at last as the con
, ,
cluding delicacy A ft er dinner the company all bow to the
.
,
hostess drink her health and then suddenly rising push back
, , ,
their chairs with a tremendous noise to the sides o f the room .
T hen they stand fo r a short time as i f they were saying a

grace ; a fter which bowing to the m aster o f the h ouse and to
, ,
each other they shake h ands with the hos kiss the hand o f
,
the hostess and conduct the ladies out o f t e room C o ffee

, .
is th en served while some gentlemen retire to smoke tobacco

,
in another room T ea is then brought in a fter which the card
.
,
tables are set out and punch served up A solid supper fi n al
, .
ly appears as be fore mentioned

, .
While the nobility and merch ants o f Norway fare thus

sumptuously the peasantry live with the utmost frugality a n d
,
temperance T heir common bread is oat meal cakes about

.
-
,
the size and thickness o f pancakes ; an d this is m ade only
twice a year In times o f scarci ty to which such a country
.
,
i s much e x posed they boil dry and grind the bark o f the fir
, , ,
tree into a kind o f flour which they mix with their o at—meal ; ,
and s metimes the bark o f the elm is used in a similar manner

o .
In places where a fishery i s c arried on the roes o f cod are ,

kneaded with the oat meal ; or mixed with the barley meal ; -
,
-
t hey are m ade into a kind o f hasty pudding and soup which -
i s enr i ched with a pickled herring or a salted m ackere l T he .

,
flesh o f the shark is considered a dainty ; as are also thin sli
ces o f meat sprinkled with salt and dried in the wind Fresh ,
.
fi s h are h a abundance on the sea co ast but fo r want o f

d ip
-
,
gg
342 U N I VER S A L T RAVELL ER .
N ORWAY .
means o f quick conveyance they are unknown in the interior , .
Here however grouse partridges hares red deer and rein

, , , , ,
-
,
deer are hunted and eaten C ows sh eep and goats are slai n
, .
, , ,
fo r winter stock the flesh being preserved by pickling smo
,
king or dry salting A fter making cheese they convert th e
,
-
.
,
sour whey into a liquor called s y e which mixed with water ,
r
, , ,
constit utes their ordinary drink ; but they provide a store o f
strong beer fo r the C hristmas festivities weddings christen , ,
i ngs a n d other entertainments
, .
T h er e ar e
f ew sp
y even in the
l en di d bu i ld i n gs i n N o r wa ,
principal towns ; and the greater part the houses are con of
structed chiefly o f wood with foundations o f stone plaster , ,
ed and whitewashed on the outside T he interio r is lined
, .
wit h planks which are covered with oil paint ; and the open
,
spaces are filled with pitch tow or moss to ex cl ude the cold , , ,
.
But it is generally observed that the Norwegians do no t b e

stow s u fli c i en t attention upon the closeness o f t heir houses ,
and seem to trust fo r warmth rather to their immense fires o f
wood The roo fs are frequently covered with tiles but m ore
.
,
commonly with planks U pon which are laid the bark o f the ,
birch tree with a coat o f tur f above all which in summe r

, , , ,
bears grass and flowers on which the go ats are fond o f bro w ,
sing T he cleanliness o f the cottages is very remarkable ; and

.
much o f their furniture such as polished pewter dishes a n d , ,

earthen s aucepans bright wooden bedsteads chairs an d
, , ,
tables bleached with frequent scouring bears a close r e s e m
, ,
a
blance to the state o f the E nglish cottages in former times

T he ceilings windows and walls are frequently painted with
, , ,
showy color s ; the tables colored in imitation o f o il cloth ,
-
.
There a r e m any elegant country seats whic h are oblong -
,
buildings consisting o f one floor the outsides painted red
, , ,
and the frames o f the windows green T he walls and beams .
o f the houses are o ften c overed with inscriptions o f a moral

and religious n at ure or expressive o f the feelings o f hospi
,
tality T he d w elling houses in the country which are gen
.
,
er a lly situated in the most pleasi n g and even picturesque
spots that can be found are usually spacious and c o m m o di , ,
o u s ly arranged ; consisting o f three or four room s on one

floor wit h large windows but somet imes with nothing but a
, ,
square hole in the roo f which serves als o fo r a passage to the
,
smoke and which is occasionally fille d by a wooden pane
,
covered with bladder .
I t i s s t ill s o m u ch th e p r a ct i c e i n N or w a y f or ever y f a m i ly to
a br i ca t e a g r ea t p a r t of th e a r t ic l es which they require fo r
f
domestic purposes , that manu factures , and even the ordinary
trades , have m ade little progress in the country ; a nd the d i s
tance at which the peasants commonly live from each other,
tends to continue this state o f thin gs T he peasantry not only .
m ake the coarse cloth with which they are clothed but also ,
S wedis h Pea s a n ts . P . 351 .
N o r weg ia n Pea s a n ts . P . 34 0
.
344 UN IVER S A L T RA VELLER .
N O R WA Y .
Hailing which resembles tumbling more than dancin and in

which the per former standing upon his head kicks E
,
is heels , ,
about in the air ; and another called Polsk resembling a waltz , ,
in v h ic h the male dancers exhibit a number o f lascivious a t
titu ges .
S kating u pon the snow which is o ften h ard as ice is also a , ,

favorite amusement The skates are m ade o f wood and are.
,
very large A t D r o nth e im is a regiment o f soldiers called
.
skate runners T hey carry a rifle a sword and a long clim b

-
.
, ,
ing pole tipped with iron They proceed at some distance .
apart and such is their speed that no body o f cavalry is able

, ,
to overt ake them .
Th e and its ecclesiastical polity resem

r eli g io n o f N o r w a y, ,
ble that o f Denmark T he king nominates to the greater part .
o f the b e n e fi c e s and there are about 5 1 8 clergy o f all ranks

,
i n the country T here are a fe w individuals connected with
.
the re formed churches but not a su fficient number to form reg ,

ular communities No Jews have ever found a footing in N o r
.
way ; and the apprehension o f their engrossing the tra ffi c in

metals is supposed to have contributed chiefly to their exclu
sion There are several missionaries sent to Lapland b y the
.
bishop o f D r o n th e im who su ffer severe privations among the

,
miserable inhabitants and who receive a s alary o f 1 00 crowns , ,
per annum T he means o f education are very limited in Nor

.
way .
Wh en m a r r i a g e t a kes p la c e in Norway, O pen house is

a
kept fo r all comers fo r a whole week E very neighbor and .
relation o f the brid e and bridegroom brings provi sions as a

contribution to the feast, and the new m arried couple are ex -
p e c te d to provide beer and brandy When the guests take .
their leave they m ake presen ts to th e married pair accord

, ,
ing to their circumst a nces an d their consanguinity so that ,
generally 1 00 and sometimes 300 dollars are collected fo r the
,
young couple .
Th e f u n er a l c er em on i es o f the Norwegians contain vestiges

o f former paganism T hey play on the viol in a t the head o f
.
the co ffi n, and also whilst the corpse is con v e yed to the church ,
which is O ften d one in a boat In several districts , it is cus .
t o m a r y to put a n u mber o f questions to the deceased : as why

he died whether his wi fe and neighbors were kind to him 2 ’
A t the sa m e time the m ourners i mplore’ forgiveness , if at a n d

time they h ave inj ured or o ffended him .
The Norw a y are quite

s up er s t i ti ou s n o ti on s a n d tr a d i ti o n s o f
numerous a nd peculiar Nor are these confined to th e lower .
orders O f the peasantry but are fou nd to exist amo n g the ,
l and owners o f the highest cl ass

-
.
T he s up er n atural b ein g in whose existence and power th e

S ka te-
r un n er s . P 344
. .
L ap la nder s dr i vi
ng eir R e indeer
th . P 3 58
. .
346 U NIV E R S A L T RAVELLER .
th i s custom o f taking the cake to N ip e n is considered highly

honorable so much so that the members o f a family take it
, ,
i n rotation T he boy h aving got N ip en s cake le ft the house

.
’
, ,
which was very near the mill to carry it there but as h e went , ,
h e was seized with an irresistible desire to taste the cake — it ,
l ooked so tempting and smelt so delicious and such a cake
, ,
he had never tasted be fore He tasted accordingly and s o .
,
excellent did he find it that he tasted again and agai n break , ,

i n g o ff little pieces till at length the cake assumed a mutilated
,
appearance and was so much reduced in size that he began

, ,
to think it would not be treating N ip en with su fficient respect
to o ff er him such a cake and that it was bett er to o ffer him ,
nothing than to m ake a fool o f him ; and so he ate it all up
, .
He then hesitated fo r some time whether he should set down

the beer ; b ut arguin with hi m sel f in the same way and com ,
ing to the same conc us i o n with regard to it as to the cake he ,
drank it also Great remorse followed these i m pious actions ;
.
but he had no coura e to tell what he h ad done but went home , ,

and patiently waite the event T he year passed on and a .
,
m ost prosperous one it proved to the mill so that when
Christmas again cam e roun d the father said it was but j ust to ,
m ake N ip e n an o ffering this year i f possible even surpassing ,
the last ; an d when the cake was m a d e the boy who was at
.
, ,
this time the only one in the house was again intrusted with ,
it Now thought he as he went to the mill the mill h as never
.
, , ,
prospered more than l ast year and yet N ip en got nothi n g ; ,

why then give this cake any more than the other ? and h e
s at down and devoured it little thinking that though N ip en , , ,
could forgive one o ffen ce he was n o t to be tr ifle d with a sec ,

ond time But feeling no fear o f N ip en he drank the beer
.
, ,
and we nt on to set down the empty vessel under the fa r mers ,
a s he h ad d one the year be fore It was a cl e ar frosty night .
,
and so still th at the tread o f a bea r might be heard a mile o ff ;
,
but just as he stooped down to lay the vessel on the g r ound ,

the fa r mers fle w round and struck him do wn ; but he lived to
”
cre ep home and tell his story and then he died ,
.
N ex t i n power to Nipe h are the L o ca l I n t ellig en c es supposed

, ,
to preside over di fferent parts o f the sur face o f the country the ,
M oun t a i n D em on the Wood D em o n the R i ver D m on whose

, ,
e
,
power also extends over the lakes T he Wood Demon di ffers .
from all the others in being supposed to be visi ble Woodmen .
m ay be found in various places who will aver th a t t h ey have seen

him and others who have had the honor o f conversing with him
,
.
On midsummer s eve the Wood Demon expects that every

’
,
woodman will leave his axe stuck into a tree in order that the ,
Demon m ay himsel f that night fell one o f the trees thus taking ,
the lead in the operations o f the following year Respecting .
this custom the follo wing story was related to C onway by a .
man who was himsel f concerned

,
“When a young man he .
,
was as usual employed in the wood along with his comrades ;

, ,
an d when night came on they began to make free as they us u , ,

UN IVER S AL T RAVELLER . 347
L O C A L I N TE LLI G E N C ES .
a lly d i d o n midsummer eve with a flask o f c o r n brandy T hey ,

.
had placed an o ff ering on the ground but forgot to strike their

axes into the tr ee s ; and the liquor taking its e ffect upon them ,
one a ft er another they all fell asleep without r e c o lle c ti n g the

,
omission It w a s broad day when they awoke and then seeing ,
the axes lying b eside them recollected the fatal error How ,
.
ever eac h man t ook his axe sorrow ful ly and went to his work ;
, ,
but not an axe would penetrate the bark ; they all rebounded
as if the trees h ad been cased in copper and rung with a ter ,
r iffi c sound ; so t hey gave up working and waited till ni ght , ,
when eac h man hung his axe upon a branch and they then ,
lay down all together ; but every attempt to keep themselves
awake was ine ffe c tual ; sleep overcame them and next m orn ,
ing upon waking every a x e was found sticking in a tree fo r
, , ,
the Demon had been satisfied with their contrition But the .
Demon is not always s o forgiving as will appear fi o m the ,

following relation which has given rise in Norway to the b e
lie f i n C hattering Peter
‘ ’
.
f Peter was a woodman employed in the forests on th e

‘
,
Glommen one who had the character o f never ha ving shown
,
su fficient respect to the Demon e ith e r i n his language or by , ,
his o fferings ; and he was even reputed to have once said he ,
was a match fo r the Demon in felling a tree or in any other ,
piece o f forest work One day in the latter end o f the year.
, ,
just about the confines o f winter but be fore the frost h ad set ,
in or any snow had fallen Peter was in the forest finis hing the
, ,
labor o f rolling a number o f felled trees to the brink o f the river ,
and tumbling them in ; and it was a ft er sunset and j ust begin ,
ning to grow dusk when he laid hold o f the only tree that r e
,
m ained A ll the woodmen had gone home and Peter was quite
.
,
alone ; and he toiled and toiled to move the tree but all in vain ,
.
A t last overcome he s at down upon the tree and began to

, , ,
wipe his face and to say to himsel f T he Demon could n o t roll
, ,
this tree to the river s brink Just as he s aid this a man ’
.
,
s carcely bigger than Peter and dressed in a fu r cloak and red ,
c ap as i f he had been a native o f G ulb r a n d s la d e n stepped
, ,
from behind a tree and saluting Peter s aid Why m an cannot
, , , , ,
you move that tree ? T o which P eter who had a shrewd ’
, ,
guess who the speaker was replied N 0 nor you neither
‘
, , ,
.
’
U pon this the stranger stooped down a nd taking hold o f the

, ,
tr ee li fted it upon his shoulder and carrying it to the brink o f
, ,
the river as if it had been a sapling threw it in N o w then
‘
,
.
, ,
’
s‘aid the Demon fo r it was none ot h er who had done the thing
, ,
what am I to h ave fo r my j ob ? ‘
P erhaps s aid P eter ta ’
,
’
,
ki ng courage at the famili ar terms in which the Demon a d
dressed him er h ap s S ir you will accept a lit tle o f this 2
,
2
,
’
taking a skin 0 tobacco from his pocket T hat won t d o fo r .

’
me eter said the Demon

P ’ ‘
T hen perh aps replied Peter
’
‘
, , .
, , ,
your h onor doesn t take tobacco but the demon
’
who can be
j ocular if he pleases disliked Peter s free way o f speaking ;
,
’
,
an d besi des knowing his character a n d h aving n il doubt
.
, ,
348 U NIV E R S AL T R A VELLE R .
N O R WAY .
overheard the slighting things he had said without further

ceremony took Peter by the foot and pitc hed him upon th e
, ,
top o f one o f the tallest pines in the forest and then went h is ,
way T hat very night winter set in ; the wind came h owli ng
.
through the woods the snow began to fall and next morn i ng , ,
the trees were m antled over Peter is still supposed to sit upon .
a pine tree his teeth chattering with cold Where he is during

,
.
s ummer the woodmen cannot tell ; but they will all aver that at
, ,
the end o f autumn he resumes his seat ; and that during all the
winter and early in the spring Peter s teeth may be heard
, ,
’
”
chattering a ny still night on the skirts o f the forest
, ,
.
One other tradition o f the forest superstition T h e Wood

De mon is supposed to h ave great skill in music ; and like ,
the son o f Jupite r to gather around him the beasts o f the fo r

,
es t by the melody o f his pipe and by the same power to e n , ,
tice women into the forest B ut he chooses winter fo r the ex .
e r c is e o f h is talent A peasant who to make a near cut home

.
, , ,
p assed through a part o f the forest one clear winter night ,
hearin the pipe was constrained to draw near and found

himsel gin the midst o f a large assemblage o f wild anim als
, ,
bears wolves lynxes & c T he beasts o ffered him no harm ;

, , ,
.
the Demon sat upon a stump o f a tree playing ; and at length ,
all the beasts departed and the Demon and the peasant were ,
le ft alone T h e D e mon made h i m a present o f an axe th at
.
felled the trees almost as soon as it touched them ; and by ,
this means the peasant grew rich A nd having one m i d

, ,
summer eve le ft his axe as usual s tuck in a tree he found

, , ,
next morning that the D e m o n h a d taken back his axe th i nk

,
'
,
ing perha p s the man was rich enough T he Demon I S how

, ,
.
,
ever susceptible o f cold at times although he chooses w m ter

, ,
fo r his piping ; fo r there are traditions o f his h aving approach

ed th e fires o f the peasants to warm him sel f and o f h a vm g ,
even entered their houses and partaken o f their che er ; but

never without leaving a prese nt o f some kind or other It .
is worthy o f adding th at the man who related all these tra ,
d it io n s and stories and several others w h i c h I omitted to take

,
any note o f and whose scruples had been at first overcome
,
by some glasses o f brandy began when the e ffects o f the , ,
brandy had ceased to resume his fear and scruples ; and ,
in so much awe did he stand o f the Wood Demon to whom ,
his disclosures mi ht be o ffens ive th at he remained all night ,

where he had tol the stori es rather tha n venture through ”
a
,
small strip o f wood which lay on the way to his house .
In one o f his excursio n s while travelling i n Norway Mr , , .
Conway had an O pportunity o f j oining a wedd i ng party an -
account o f w hich with the ceremony w h i ch followed he thus

,
,
relates :
T he party was going to a church h i gher up the lake and ,
on the opposite side ; and as I w as told I should save two ,

hours walk by takin a seat in the boat I Wi ll i ngly accepted
’
,
the p w p o s al more t o m a desire o f seeing how these thin gs
.
P 350
. .
350 U NIV E R S A L T R A V E LLER .
S WE D E N .
par ty immediately disembarked and placing the music at their ,

head walked to the church door where the V iolin the p i pe
, , , ,
and the drum kept u p the serenade all the time o f the cere
,
mony In the ceremony itsel f there was nothing e x tr a o r d i
.
,
nary T he bride c ontinued to wear her honorable crown ;
.
and when it was concluded the party returned in the same ,

order in which it arrived ; and lon a fter the boats pulled fro m
,
th e shore the soun d s o f music an mirth were borne over the

,
lake I have since had opportunities o f seeing many cou ntry
.
m arriages which were a ll conducted nearly as the one I h ave

,
described with the di fference only that if the j ourney to
, ,
church be a land j ourney it is per formed i f in summer o n , , ,

hors eback and i f in winter on sledges The Norweg ians
, ,
.
seize every opportunity o f feasting and among these o p p o r ,
t u n itie s marriage takes the lead

,
T here is a smaller fest iv a l .
c onnected with marriage which is called in Norway F es t er al , , ,

the day u pon which two young persons plight their troth and ,
”
declare their intended m arria ge .
17 . S WED E N .
T he S wedes are o f the middle size and fe w o f th em are cor ,
p u l e n t T
. hey have light fl a x e n hair and a ruddy c o u n te ,
nance wit h what Dr T hompson calls a certain degree o f
,
.
fl a b b in e s s ” in their complex ion T he females are distinguish .

,
ed fo r their beauty T heir genera l resemblance would in d i

.
cate that they belong to the s ame family rather than that they ,
were n atives o f a large country In their m anners such is .

,
“
their vivacity that they h ave been styled the French o f the
,
”
North .
The the S wedes is highly respectable

n a ti o n a l ch a r a ct er o f ,
and interesting T hey are remarkable fo r great simplicity
.
,
both in m anner in dress and in feeling T hey are eminently

, ,
.
hospitable honest conte nted ind ustrio us brave T he pop a

, , , ,
.
lation b eing thinly settled and communication with strangers ,

not being very frequent they like the S cotch Hi h la n d e r s and , ,
the VV e lc h are attached to ancient us a ges an traditionary

, ,
legen d s ; and their tendency in this respect is found to be con ,
s id e r a b ly inveterate not being eas ily removed or modified

,
by recent improvement T he weakest point in their character .
,
h owever is an immoderate indulgence i n the use o f ardent
,
spirits T his indulgence is confined chiefly to the lower o r
.
d ers : a co n siderable quantity o f corn is m ade u s e o f every

year fo r the p urpose o f distillation B ut with this exception .
,
the ch aracter o f the S wedes is entitled to the highest com
m a nd ation A s a further illustration o f the S wedish character
.
“
,
the fol low ing e x tract fro m M r C onway m ay be added , M y .
,
aur ne y from U n de v a lla was mad e on S unday an d Jud gi n g

j ,
NIV E R S AL T R A V ELL E R
U 35 1 .
'
C OS T U M E— D I E T— C O TTA G ES .
from the concourse o f people who thronged the road and ,
particularly from the multitude assembled in a churchyard

wh i ch lay close to it I had every reason to conclude that th e
,
S wedes are a church going people I was exceedingly pleased -
.
wit h the respectable appearance o f the peasantry I kn o w .
they are poor wretchedly poor but they h ad ne i ther forgott en

, ,
the way to the house o f God nor omitted in the i r poverty to ,
provide decent apparel fo r their appearance there From a .
height over which the road passed in the course o f th i s day s ,

’
j ourney I counted no fewer than eleven churches i n S i ght at

,
the same time From other specimens than that which I h ave
.
n e n t io n e d I have no reason to doubt o f their being all well

Elled .
”
,
“In passing along the S wedish roads ” conti nues the same
,
“
writer the traveller frequently sees a charity box fixed at -
,
the way side ; and it is a beauti ful trait in the character o f th at
-
nation worth all their records o f glory and deeds O f arms

, ,
th at there i s no instance o f one o f thes e boxes bein plundered .
T he poor in S weden are well provided fo r both y these r e ,

c e p t a c le s fo r c asual alms o fferings and by a re lar parish
-
,
provision ; but to recur to the ho n esty o f the S w e es I think .
it may sa fely be averred that S weden is the m ost remarkable

o f any o f the E u ropean nations On account o f this virtue .
,
doors are cons t an tly le ft upon the latch Horse stealing and .
-
sheep stealing are utterly unknown O f s ac ri lege there is no

-
.
e x ample upon record ; and indeed excepting at S tockhol m ,

and Gottenburg where a taint o f foreign manners m ay be
,
e x pected to obtain every description o f property m ay be c on

,
s i d e r e d as s a fe from dishonesty
”
.
I n S wed en , i t ca n ch a n g e of
h a r d ly b e s a id th a t th er e i s a ny
c o s tu m e ;blue and black are the most common colors ; and if
in some instances a variation o f color distinguishes the inbah
i ta n ts o f one province from those o f another still the dress ,
is in other respects the same A broad brimmed hat with a .
-
,
very low crown and a black riband tied round it distinguish
, ,
es the holyday dress o f the men but on days o f labor a c ap ,

is the covering fo r the head T he national dres s as estab .
,
lis h e d by the king in 1 7 7 7 fo r the purpose o f suppressing luxu,
r y consists O f a close coat very wide breeches strings in the
, , ,
shoes a girdle and a cloak B y the same ordinance the w o
, ,
.
,
m e n w e r e to wear a black robe w ith pu ffed gauze sleeves a
_ , ,
colored sash and ribands Veils are much used by females
,
.
o f all classes ; and even the peasants while at work in the

,
fields cover their heads with black crape
, .
Th ei r f oo d and fish eggs

p r i n cip a ll y c o n s i s t s o
f s a lt ed
f l es h , ,
milk and h ard bread A t Michaelm as they usually kill their
, .
,
cattle and s alt them fo r the ensuing winter and spring T wic e
, .
in a year they bake their bread in large round cakes whic h

, ,
ar e strung upon files o f sticks and suspended close to the c eil
,
352 U NIVER S A L T RAV ELLER .
S WE D E N .
i n gs o f the cottage T hey are so h ard as to be occasionally

'
b roken with a hatchet but are not unpleas ant The peasants , .
u s e beer fo r their common drink and are much addicted to ,

m alt spirits In the districts towards the western coast and at
.
,
no great distance inland tea and co ffee are not unusua lly ,
found which are procured in great plenty and at a cheap rate
, , ,
from G ottenburg No dinner is made without brandy E ven. .
ladies use it Be fore a dinner the guests are led to a side ta

.
,
ble fii r n is h e d with liquors and slight food as a preliminary to
, , ,
the more important repast T he dishes are a ll brought on to .
the table at once and the guests do not ask fo r any particular ,
one A ll are circulated in turn and all are partaken unless
.
, , ,
the guest pre fers to sit with an empty plate till his favorite ,
dish m ay arrive A fter dinner the guests gravely thank the .
,
host fo r his entertainment T he S wedes l ike all northern .

,
people use much tobacco
, .
T h ei r f
co tt a g es and only o f one story
,
th o u gh bu ilt o w oo d, ,
are com fortable a n d c o m m o d io u s T he room in which the ‘
family sleep i s pro vided with ranges o f beds in tiers one

, ,
above the other : upon the wooden testers o f the beds in which
the women lie are placed others fo r the reception o f the men
, , ,
to which they ascend by means o f ladders T o a person who .
h as j ust quitted Germany and been accustomed to tolerable ,

inns the S wedish cottages m ay perhaps appear miserable hov
,
els : to m e who h ad been long used to places o f fa r in ferior
,
accommodation they seemed almost palaces The travelle r ,

.
is able to procure many conveniences and particularly a sep ,

arate room from that inhabited by the family whi c h could ,
seldom be obtained in the Polish and Russian Villages Dur .
ing my course says Mr Coxe through these two countries a

,
.
, ,
bed was a phenomenon which seldom occurred excepting in ,
the large towns and even then not always completely equip
,
ped : but the o o r es t huts o f S weden were never defic ient in
this article 0 com fort a n evident proo f that the S wedish ,
-
peasants are more civilized than those o f Pol and and Russia .
S w ed en i s n ot m or e c el ebr a t ed fo r any thing , than fo r the state

of its roads . T he hig h roads , says Mr C o x e , wind agreeably .
throu gh the country are m ade with stone or gravel and are , ,
as good as the turnpike in E ngland ; and yet not a single toll

is exacted from the traveller E ach landlord is obliged to .
keep in repair a certain part o f the road in proportion to his ,
property ; and fo r the purpose o f ascertaining their respective

portions small pieces o f wood or stone marked with numbers
, ,
and capital letters are placed at d i fferent distances on each ,
side o f the way S uch indeed are their goodness throughout

.
, ,
the whole country th at during several thousa n d miles which , ,
I travelled in this and in my former tour in 1 7 7 9 I scarcely , ,

met with fi fty miles th at deserved the name o f indi fferent .
T hey are also as pleasant as they are good and in m any pla ,
S WE D EN .
solely from their employers Orders h ave recently been given .
by the king to establish s chools on the Lancasterian system

, .
Government indeed is doin all in its power to introduce i m

, ,
p r o v e m e n ts in teaching ; an pays no less than annu

ally in the s hape o f s alaries allowances to the poorer stu
, ,
dents &c T he clergy take all seminaries o f learning par
,
.
,
t ic u la r ly schools under their particular jurisdiction and labor
, ,
by liberal attention to pro m ote the obj ect whic h such in s titu
‘
tions have in view .
Th e fi rst o f May are consecrated to

a nd M i ds umm er d a y, -
mirth and estivity d uring which the S wedes display all their
f ,
gayety by dances and songs ; the greater part o f which a r e
national and partake o f the gloom o f the climate On Mon
, .
d ay large fires are lighted in the fields as emblem atical o f the

, ,
natural warmth which is about to succeed the severity o f a

long winter ; and around these the people assem ble to enj oy
good cheer and amuse themselves with sports On the eve
,
.
o f Midsummer day a season still more calculated to inspire

-
,
hilarity and j oy the houses are ornamented with bo u ghs a n d
, ,
the young men and women dance round a pole till the morn
ing T hey then take a fe w hours repose a fter which they r e
.
pair to the church to implore the divine protection and then ,

give themselves up to fres h amusements .
C on s i d er a bl e a t t en t i on h a s been p a i d b y th e S w ed es to a gr i
c u ltu r e,but owing to the poverty the soil they scarcely of ,
raise enough fo r home consumption In respect to summer .

,
agricultural operations the S wedish farmer is obliged to o b ,

serve the greatest d e s p a tc h or the season will be gone S u m ,
.
mer bursts suddenly from winter and vegetation is quick the , ,

valleys are green in a fe w days which were be fore covered ,
with snow : this verdant prospect lasts about three months ,

during which short period they sow and plant ; the women
here taking upon themselves the toils o f husban d ry go to ,
plough and when ready thrash out the corn ; nor does female
, , ,
industry stop here ; they also row upon the water serve the ,
bricklayers and like porters carry burdens like the men
, , ,
: ,
they are in general healthy complaisant and courageous ; , ,
both sexes can endure hunger cold and poverty T heir ani , ,
.
m als are similar to those o f Norway T o their h orses a de .
cided pre ference is i v en o ver those o f Germany fo r purposes ,

o f war S weden a ounds in venison and fish and the G ul f
.
,
o f Finland furnishes the m with inn umerable seals from which ,
they produce train oil in su ffi cient quantity to render it an ar

-
ti o le o f com m erce which they e x port T here is excellent

,
.
pasturage but not much corn T he neat cattle and sheep do

,
.
not seem to present any thing remarkable .
Th e m a n uf ctu r es of th i s cou n t y are not numerous c onsist

a r
,
ing chiefly o f those o f iron copper tar pitch hemp an d tim , , , .
,
b er : o f these iron is the most considerable ; nor is it to b e

,
. uN IV ER s AL T R AVELLE R .
— d
~355
L AP L AN D .
wondered at when the number o f mines in th e king d o m i s

a bout
He r rin gs als o form a co nsid er able article o f export while ,
thos e o f importation are chiefly tobacco sugar c o fi e e wine s '
'
, , , ,
s ilks and drugs A nd as this country s growth o f corn is in
’
,
.
g eneral inadequate to its consumption grain o f var i o us kinds ,

is annually importe d par tic u larly rye
.
,
.
ays Dr C larke is a lways a pleasin g

A we d di n g i n S wed en , s .
,
a nd sing lar sight
u strangers Bo th the bride a nd b r ide
fo r .
g room are dressed in T he bride is dec or at ed fro m

b la ck .
.
h er head to her waist with a pro fusio n o f artifici a l fl ower s

, ,
m d a e either by th eminister s wi fe or by some ingen io u s
’
,
f riend
,
o f colored p p er O n her he ad s h e wears a silver
a .
,
c rown richly gilt and kept o n by a doubl e c h ain wh ic h
, , , ,
h anging down on either side o f her head s h e h o l ds b y o ne ,
h and A fte r the ma r ria ge ce rem ony h as been per form ed
.
,
feasting begi ns and is continued during an entire week
, .
i n this interval the most intim ate friends o f the new m arrie d
,
-
c ouple bring large sheets o f ornamented paper covered wit h ,

vases and various devices somewhat like E nglis h va len ti n es , ,
a n d c ontaining also the names o f the parti e s a nd the d ate o f
,
t heir marria ge T h e se generally re m ain fo r m any years in
.
the houses where the wed ding festival h as be en h e ld ; th e

o wners setting the highest value upon them .
18 . L A PL A ND .
T h e L a la n d er s h a ve ,
a s wa r th y co mp l ex i on , b lac k, s h o rt
h air a
,
w i e mouth hollow chee ks and a chin
, ,
somewh at long
a nd po nt d T heir eyes are weak an d watery in c o n s e
i e .
,
c e it is s up p os ed o f th eir sm o k
q u e n , y h a b it ations or the dri
, ,
v in and gl aring s no ws o f winter wh ich o ften h ave t h e e ffect ,
of e p r iv i n
g the natives o f sight fo r several d ays a fter return ,
ing fro m a hunting excursion T hey possess great stren h .
o f body and are capable o f u nd ergoing ex tr a o r d in ar e

,
grees o f labor T hey ar e not less remarkable fo r swi nes s

.
o f foot and b o dily agilit y ; a n d are inured from their in fancy

, ,
to every kind o f activity and exerti on T hey are rather o f .
diminutive stature a circumstance which has been generally ,
ascribe d to the s everity o f their clima te and the s cantin e s s o f

their diet T heir s lo u c h in g ga it and want o f artificial hee ls
.
'
giv e th e m however the appearan ce o f being lower than they

, ,
are 1 11 reality ; and as the boys h ave o ft en the air o f matu re,
vears and are employed in driving the s ledges it is not n u
, ,
likely that they may h ave be en mista ken by many tr a veller s
t o r men .
T h e dr es s o f th e L a
p la nd er s cons is ts o f a conical c ap . in th e
356 UN IVER S A L T RAVE L LER .
L APL AN D .
form a s gar o and o f a grayish color made with eight

of u —l a f
, ,
seams whic h are covered with s tr ip e s o f brown cloth with a
'
, ,
tassel o f var io u s colored s hreds on the t0p and a border o f ,
fur round th e lower p a rt someti m es the co l or o f the cap
red and the stripes yellow Whi le engaged i n hunti n g or in
,
.
,
tending the reindeer they wear also a kind o f ridin hoo d
,
-
,
which covers the who le head breast and shoulders a vi n g , , ,
only a s m al l openi n g to l o ok through T he men rarely wear .
any covering about their necks wh i ch are e x posed naked t o ,

the weather with no other protection but what is deri ved fro m
,
t h e th ic k collar s o f their coa ts T he c o a t wh i ch serves at .
,
o nce as sh ir t and outer garme n t is generally m ade o f sheep ,

sk in w ith the wool upon it turned ne x t the skin and reache s
, ,
below the knees when not tied up with a girdle It is open in
,
.
front h al f way down the bosom below which it is fastene d

-
,
with hooks as fa r as the lower part o f the stomach T he col .
lar is high and thick quilted with cl o th frequently ornamented

, ,
with di fferent c o l ore d threads and e x tending a l ittle way dow n ,
the bosom on each side I n st ead o f pocket s they carry a lit .

,
tle bag h anging ov e r th e br e ast d ivided into two compart ,
ments and containing their tobacco pipe tinder box tobacc o

,
-
,
-
, ,
and spoon T he great co at made o f kersey or reindeer skin
.
-
, , ,
with t h e h a iry side outwar d s is like the jacket open only a t , , ,

the breast and provided with an upright s tifi e n e d collar with
, ,
a running string to d raw it close abou t the ne c k T he collar

. .
,
the ope n ing at the breast t h e shoulder band the cu ffs o f the ,
-
,
sleeve and the bottom o f the coat and j acket are commonly
, ,
bor d ered with cloth or furs o f di ffe r ent colors and worked ,
with threads o f various hues T hey use no stockings but .
,
wear a kind o f pantaloo n s o f coarse cl o th or ta n ned leather , ,
or the skin o f the reindeer s legs fitted close to the limb ’

,
s .
T heir shoes are m ade from the skin o f the reindeer the soles ,
being taken from the forehead and th e upper leather from t h e ,

legs o f the anim al T hey wear leather belts ornamented with
.
tin and with thongs o f leather to which are attach ed tin balls
, , ,
key s &c h anging down behind T h e women wear caps o f

,
.
,
.
woollen or linen cloth with stripes and borders o f yellow , ,

cloth and ribands o f gold or silver tinsel and use riding hoods
, ,
-
when abroad like those o f the men except that the former i s
, ,
a t h er e d into plaits be fore and behind and is rather shorter ,

t an that o f the other sex while the latter is longer T he ,
.
other p arts o f their dress are little di fferent from those o f the
men ; but their gloves and shoes are generally o f white skins ,
a n d their girdles more ornamente d T hey wear al s o ker .
chie fs or m antles o f Russian linen or cotton and narrow

, ,
aprons o f the same stu ffs always furnished with a fringe or ,
border A ll their articles o f dress are m ade by the women
. .
*
T he Lapps who do not exceed ten thousand in number are

, ,
d ivided into two classes viz : those who live in huts or ,

.
N ew Edinb urgh E n cyclop edia .

U N IV E R S A L T R A VEL L ER . 3 57
D IE F HU TS .
g a m m es ,on the s ea co ast and su b sist in a great measure by

-
, , ,
fi shing ; an d th ose who live in the interior and depend chiefly ,
u pon th e reindeer fo r support T he latter d well in t ents a n d .
,
wander from place to place as th e se as o ns or other circ u m ,
s tanc e s may render nece ss ary .
Th e h u ts f o are o f a m o t w
th e L a p p s
s ret che d de s c r iption ;
not more th an eight or ten fe et in diameter and fro m fo ur to ,
s ix feet in height ; not unlike a baker s oven in shape T hey
’
.
are sometimes built with stones and sods an d roo fed with ,
beams an d ra fters wit h small w o o d bet w e en them over which
, ,
a r e laid b u shes and tur f with fine ea r th on the to p ; somet imes
,
they are constructed only o f b ranc hes covered over with grass , ,
o r moss and this so negligently that th e wind penetrates in

, ,
e very direction A hole at the top serves bo th fo r window
.
a n d chimney ; a nd instead o f a door there a re t wo lo w vault ,

c d pass ages throu gh w hich it is nec e s sary to crawl on the
,
h ands and knees to gain admis sion to th e in terior T he s e .
passages are o f di ffere nt dimensions ; through the s mallest ,

the men sally forth to their h unting or other pursuits ; but no ,
Wo man attempts th e use o f t his entry lest she should m eet a .
m an at his de partu re a ci r c u m stance that would b e d ee med a

,
.
b ad omen and cause him to re turn an d sit idle during the r e

,
m a i n d er o f the day S ep arate p a rts o f the li mi ted s pa ce o f

.
these h a ts are ass ign e d to each branch o f the family T he fire .

,
i n the centre sepa rates t h e t wo sides ; t h e side O ppo s ite th e
,
door is deemed the most honorable and reserved fo r the ,
m aster and mistress T he children are next them ; and the
.
s ervants nearest the door .
T he t ents o f the in la n d Lapps composed o f stakes set up ,

r ight in the ground an d fastened together at t he t O p in a con ~
,
ic al form are covered with coarse linen o r w o ollen cloth
T he side most exposed t o the win d
,
s ometimes with sail cloth .
is protected by a double c overing T he se ats within are com .
posed o f so ft reindeer skins and white woollen covers T h e .
q uality o f this skin and cover also d etermines the rank o f the
-
p lace an d o f the p erson w h o is to occupy it

,
.
In bounds so restricted it is almost inconceivable how a ,

n umerous family can he r d together fo r many m onth s as th e ,
L apps are o bliged to do A ll the m embe rs o f th e fam ily in .
,
d eed are rarely as sembled at one time : the herd o f reindeer
,
demands their presence and atte ntion even during the m ost ,
stormy n i hts ; and men and boys wives and dau h te r s take
t h e post o fw at ch i n g alternately twice or thrice a a y
, ,
E ach ,
.
goes out in turn with several dogs which be lon g to th a t i n di ,

v idual alo n e who se com mands only they will obey ; an d th e
,
guard s which they relieve re t urn with their hun ry dogs

Hence it not u n frequently h appens th at ten or a g
.
, o z en r un
o ver the heads o f persons sleeping in the g a m m e in quest o f ,
c om fortable spots fo r themselves to rest in ; and when th e
Lapp ret urns we ar ied h e alway s s h are s h is r e in deer fl es h
'
, ,
358 U NIVER S A L T R A VELL E R .
L AP L AN D .
and his soup with his dog though he would hard y p art ,
‘
wi th
it fo r either father or mot h er .
T h e m a r i ti m e L a p l an d er s fi li ers and s u bs i s t o n sh
,
fi sh - v
,
train oil ; and o f these they pr o cure o nly a scanty supply ;
hence they are continually aspiring to the rank o f the moun
,
t a in ee r s or F i eld t L a pp s
,
T he latter as lo n g as they can .
,
k eep u p a stock o f three or four hundred reindeer are in tole
:
,
rable prosperity ; fo r they can a ff ord to kill as m any o f the m
as are neces sary fo r food and cl o thing shoes and boots and , ,
to sell b esides a fe w s kins hides and horns to the merchants , , , ,
in exch ange fo r meal brandy or woollen stu ffs B ut when a , ,
.
famil y is brought so low as to possess only a hundred rei n

deer they give u p th eir pastoral li fe a n d get towards the s e a
, ,
o r lake to gain from t h e wat er s that su bs istence w hich they
,
c an no Io n er find on the lan d .
E very a y ” “
says Dr C larke I have s e en reindeer fles h
.
, ,
cooked in all these g a m m es fo r the wh o le family in large iron , ,

kettles E ach person cer tai nly recei ved more than a poun d
.
for his share When the fl e s h w a s cooked it was immediately

.
torn asunder by the master o f the ho use with his fingers and , ,
d ivided out among th e family ; and the eagerness with w hic h
each person received his allowance and the rapidity with ,
which they strove as fo r a w a ger to tear it with t h e teeth a n d
, ,
finger s are almost inco nceivable In the mean time the broth
,
.
,
rem ain s in the kettle and boiled u p with reindeer m ilk made
, ,
th ick with rye or oat meal and sometimes though seldom with
-
, , ,
a litt l e s al t
:
:
T his broth is then distributed an d swallowed

.
,
with th e same hungry
T h e blood o f th e rei nde er a l s o sup p lies these people with
food ; it is p u t either alone or mix ed with wild berries into th e
, ,
stom ach o f the animal from which it was taken and being ,
boiled a ff ords a n articl e fo r the table not very dis s im ila r t o th e
,
black puddin gs o f othe r coun tries Besides th e reindeer th e
C
.
,
Lapps obtain a supply from the chase at which they are very ,
expe rt and they ea t all kin d s o f wild animal s not excepti n g suc h
, ,
as are ca r n iv er c us and bi r ds o f prey : b ut bears flesh is the ir
,
’
gre atest delicacy T he mari time Lapps likewise eat fi s h o f c v

.
ery description even to the sea ~dog T heir winter provisio n s

,
.
consist chiefly o f flesh and fish dried in the open air and eaten , ,
without any farther cooking T heir common drink is water .
,
sometimes m ixed with milk ; and th e y also are fond o f broths
and fish so u ps B r a n d y is very scarce among them but they
.
are ver y fond o f it ; a n d a glass o f it will always ensure enter

t a in m e n t to a traveller in their huts when every appeal to thei r ,
humanity would be made in vain .
Guests on a visit are entertaine d with singing and p r esented

, ,
with so ft clean skin s to sit upon T h e men talk gravely a n d
-
.
,
.
c onsiderably o f the weather and o f hunting and fishing : they ,
C lar ke ’
s Trave ls .
F N L AN D
I .
o
y un g m an is allowed to vi s it his mistress fr om time to time ;
and as every visit is purchased from the fat h er w ith a bottle o f
brandy the courtship is sometimes prolonged fo r two or three
,
years A t last the banns are published in th e church and the
.
, ,
marriage immediately succeeds their pub lication ; but th e
b r idegroo m is obliged to serve his father in l aw fo r four year s - -
a fter m a r ria ge He then takes home his wi fe and her fortune

.
, ,
w hich o r dina r ily consists o f a few sheep a kettle and some , ,
trifling articles ; but the dowry o f the wealthy consists o f from
thirty to forty or even fi fty reind ee r b e s ides ves s els o f silver
, , , ,
a n d other utensils .
Th e L app and generally attain a very great

s a r e r a r el y s i ck,
age Ev .
from the i ri ng W
old men are hearty and scarcely distinguishable
Blindness is the chie f malady to which they
are subj ect ; the d a z z lin reflection o f the snow without and
.
,
,
the e ffect o f smoke wit in their dwellings so operate u pon ,
their eyes th at fe w o f them retain their sight with any degre e

,
o f v i o r a fter they ar e a dvanced in years
cr .
Whe n a Lapp is suppo s e d to be ap p roaching the close o f

li fe h i s friend s exh ort him to die in the C hristian faith ; but
,
th ey a r e unwilling to attend h im in h is last moments A s soon .
as he expires e ven h is n eare st kindred flee from the plac e

,
with the utmost precipitati o n from the belie f th at the spirit r e ,
«
mains in or about the corpse a n d deli ghts in doing mischie f to ,

t h e l i vin g .
T h e se pu lc h re consists o f an old sledge t urned bottom u p ,

wards over th e s p ot where the b ody is bu ried A n axe an d
,
.
a tinder box are placed by the side o f a man s corpse and

-
’
,
scissors and needles by that o f a woman from a suppositio n ,

that they will be use ful to them in the other world Fro m a b e .
lie f that the felicity o f a future state consists in eating drink ,

ing brandy smoking & c they fo r the fir s t three years a d e r
, ,
.
, ,
the decease o f a friend or relation dig h o le s from time to time , , ,
by the side o f the grave and deposite therein a small quantity ,
o f t b ac c o or whatever the dece as ed was fo ndest o f w h e n liv
'
mg o .
k
,
19 . FINL A ND .
Th e F i ns ppear to have been the ori ginal inhab itants o f

a
S weden to w h ich cou nt ry Finland formerly be longed b ut
, ,
p or t ions o f which were at di ffer e nt times acquir e d by Russia ,

a n d in 1 8 09 t h e wh ole passed under t h e dominion o f the lat
,
ter T he Fins are decidedly a distinct race from the Russians ;
.
a n d their dress m anners and character are also di fferent , ,

.
T h ey ar e o f a middle stat ure fair complexion genera lly red , ,
Asp in
’
s Cos morama .
A P ea s a n t of F in la nd
. P . 36 1 .
FI N LAN D .
are warmly clothed and above their other garments wear a ,

large linen shi ft which gives them the appearance o f bein g
,
i n an und ress In the h ouse the men generally throw o ff their
.
,
coat and even in th at manner per form their ordinary labors
,
in the open air ; but when they go out to a greater distance in
the w inter season they wear a kind o f short coat m ade o f cal f
, ,
skin or a woollen surtout fastened round the mid dle with a ,
girdl e ; and pull over their b o ots co arse woollen stockings ,

b oth fo r warmth and fo r s a fer walking on the ice Most o f the .
e a s a n t s have a small house fo r the purpose o f taking a warm

gath which is done in the following m ann er A num b er o f
,
.
stones in the inner m ost part o f the chamber are h eated by

, ,
“
fire till they become red ; and w ater being thrown upon them
in this state the bathers are involved in a cloud o f thick hot
,
vapor air ; they remain naked fo r the space o f h al f an hour or ,
e ven a whole hour rub b ing their bodies or lashing them wit h
, ,
bunch es o f twigs and frequently go o u t without any c o vering , ,
in to the open air or even roll themselves in the snow thus ma
, ,
king a n instantaneous transition o f perh aps 1 00 degrees which ,

is almost equivalent to a passage from boiling to freezing w a
ter T his practice they a ffi rm has a most invigorating e ffect
.
, ,
Upon their frames and recruits their s trength as much as rest
,
o r sleep .
T h e F i n n i s h p ea s a n t r y a r e, a t a l l s ea s o ns , bu s i ly emp loyed
in active labor ; and even in the depth o f winter find abun ,
d ance o f employment both in the house and abroad Within .

,
they are en gaged in m aking nets constructing cartwheels , ,
forming fagots fo r fuel or thrashing their corn ; and out o f ,

doors they cut down timber and e asily drag over the i c e or
, ,
s now such enormo u s trunks as they are scarcely able to ,
m ove in summer Fishing and hunting may be c onsidered

.
as their necessary avocations rather th an voluntary amuse ,

m ents .In fishing with ho o ks they scour over the ice in long ,
w ooden p attens pushing themselves with incredible veloc i ty
, ,
b y means o f a pole which t h ey hold in their hands ; a n d when

t hey hav e reac h ed the place W here they intend to fish they ,
s pread a triangular sail to shelter them from the W i nd p er fo

.
r ate the ice with a chisel pl unge their line into the sea to the ,
depth o f about 30 feet and are sometimes obliged to continue ,
stirring the sur face o f the water to prevent its fr e e z m g In .
fishing with nets they m ake two openings i n the i c e and by

, ,
m eans o f ropes and long pol es pass the nets from the one to ,
the other which they a ft er wards draw out with great labor
,
.
In autumn when the frost begins to set in and the i c e i s most

.
, ,
ansparent the fisherman courses along the r vers W th a
.
tr i i
,
w ooden club or mallet in his h and ; and when he o bserves a

fi s h under the ice in shallow w a ter he strikes a violent blow ,
p
erpendicularly above it which at once breaks the ice ,
and
s t uns the fish so th at he easily seizes i t W i th an i nstr u ment
,
ma de fo r the p urpose In h unting the seals they take
. post in
NIVER S AL T R A VELLER
U .
H U N TI N G — TR AVIS L L I N G .
th e neighborhood o f their h aunts behind a mass o f ice a n d , ,

wait till one o f them comes out o f th e water It frequently ,
.
happens th at the hole in the ice by which he ascends is froze n ,

over al m ost instantaneously ; and the hunters then fall upo n
h i m be fore he has time to make a new aperture with his breath ,
or at least be fore he can reach th e O pening should it still b e ,
pa ssable In these extremities th e animal m akes a desperate

.
,
de fence seizi n g the clubs with his teeth and attem p tin to
, ,
reach the assa ilant ; but the slowness o f his motions ren ers
his e fforts unavailing and he is soon despatched without
, ,
much risk T he Finlander s mode o f hunting the bear r e
.
’
quires a greater degree o f intrepidity and presence o f mind .
Instead o f a very uncertain weapon the h unter uses an iro n ,

l ance fix ed at the end o f a pole and having a cross bar abou t ,
-
a foot distant from the point When the bear has been irrita .
ted to rush from his den and is rearing himsel f on his hind
,
legs to seize his daring antagonist the pe as ant drawing b ack ,
the iron lance clo se to his breast so as to conceal the length ,
o f his weapon and render the animal less watch ful agai n st i ts
,
s troke a d vances boldly within arm s length o f the bear and ’
, ,
plunges the point into his hear t T he cross bar prevents the .
-
lance from passing thro u gh th e body keep s the a nimal fro m ,

reaching the hunter with his paws a nd se rves to thro w h im ,
o n his back while the wounded bear hast ens his o w n deat h
,
b y h olding the weapon fa st and pressing it more deeply in to ,
the wound A still more hazardous enterprise is th e seal

.
hunting in the spring a fter the frozen sea break s up and the
, ,
ice flo ats in s hoals upon the sur face Four or five persons .
set s ail in an open bo at with one small m ast ; and e xpos e

thems elves during the spac e o f a mo nth or more and in the ,
most un favorable circumstances to all the dangers o f the ,
o cean . In this pursuit their little bark is continually placed
,
be tween m asses o f ice which threaten to crus h it to piec es ;
,
a n d in order to reach the s eals they must creep alon the
g ,
floating shoals killing them as they repos e upon the ice D a
, .
ring the same season they hunt the squirrel which they kill ,
with a blun t woode n arro w shot from a cro ss bow th at they ,
-
,
m ay not injure the skin T he bow used in this sport is o f a
.
,
very ancient construction extremely heavy and req uiring , ,
great stren gth to bend it even with the assistance o f a thong
, .
T he peasantry are remarkably dexterous both in the use o f

this bow and o f the fowling piece loa ding the latter always
,
-
,
with ball and rarely missing the sm allest bird T hey employ
, .
fo r this purpose a kind of r ifle gun with a narrow bore -
wh i ch requires gut a very small charge and yet c arries to a

. , ,
,
.
considerable distance T he win te r also is the principal sea

.
s o n o f tra ffi c and all the great fairs are held in Finland a n d
S weden in that time o f th e year in consequence o f the facility
,
o f carr ying goods over the ice and travelling in sledges o n
,
the sno w T he p easants on these occasions frequent ly un
.
de rta ke j ourney s o f three or four hundred E ng lish mil es

,
364 NIV E R S A L TR A V E LLER
U .
R U SS IA .
c arrying along with them whatever article s they h ave fo r ,
s ale . In Finland the sledges are very narrow containing

, ,
o nly o n e person and drawn by a single horse
,
and the roads
are deep ruts formed by the suc c essive passage o f these v e
hi e les thus admitting none o f a larger size than what are gen
,
e r ally used in the c o untry T h e circ umstance o f being over .
turned is rarely productive o f any serious c o nsequences ; and

the dangers attending the traveller arise chie fly from thos e ‘
parts o f the rivers or lakes where the ice is insu fficient to

support the weight E xcepting the b e ar which rarely comes
.
,
from his den to attack the inhabitants u ntil he is first p r o ,
»
y oked the o nly other savage creatures in the country are

"
, ,
wo lves ; and those even when starvi n g will not venture sing
, ,
ly to assail the passenger When assembled ho w ever in .
, ,
herds and impelled by famine they sometimes rush upon
, ,
the horses in the sledges ; and should the traveller be over
t urned and le ft upon the r o ad he mus t fall a prey to their fe ,
r o c it y
*
.
Wh en f
a bo u t to or m a Finlander
a m a tr i m o n i a l co n n ex i on ,
commissions some old w o men to make known his propos als
to the obj ect o f his a ffections a n d at the s ame time sending a ,
present o f a handkerchie f rib and or p iece o f money T he , ,
.
messenge r waits upon the young woman while undressing at

ni ht and a ft er dwelling on the praise o f the lover slips his
g
, ,
g i int o t h e fair one s bo som I f the present is retained the

’
.
,
young people c onsider themselves as mutually engaged and ,
nothing but the marriage ceremony is wanti ng B u t i f the .
present be returned this indicates a re fusal which may never

, ,
t h e le s s yield to a sec o nd pro p o sal unless the young woman , ,
instead o f r eturning th e gi ft with her hands su ff ers it to drop ,
t o the ground which is co unted a positive t o ken o f decided

,
rej ection A t the m a rria ge one o f the friends or neighbors
.
, ,
with th e o rator or s p eaker doe s the honor o f the feast w h o , ,
generally also recites verses or makes them e x tempore suita , ,
ble to the occasi o n ; and on the day fo llowing a fter address , ,

‘
ing some advices to the m arried co upl e h e strikes the woman ,
r epeatedly round the body with the husband s breeches com

’
,
m anding her to be fruit ful and to furnis h him with h eirs o f ,

his own body .
20 . RU S S IA .
Perh aps in no population o f equal number in any other

,
p art o f the earth is there s o great a v a r i et y of r a c es o f people

, ,
a s in the which the Russian empire comprehends .
T hey may be thus distinguished and divided : 1 T hose o f .
N ew Edinb urgh E n cyc op edia l .

A R us s ia n N oblema n . P . 366 .
U N IV E R S AL 3 05
P ER S O N A L A PP E A R A NC E— D R E SS .
S ori n the Russians (properly so c alled ) and th e

c l a v o n ic
'
Poles are o f t is race and likewise the in h abitants o f L ith u a ,
n i a Courland & c ; they form the maj o rity o f the populati on

, ,
.
,
amounting to about 2 Germans : a ll the noblesse .
a n d b urghers o f Finland Livonia E sthoni a and Courland , , , ,

are Germans as well as most o f the colonists in the interior
,
and so uth o f the empire : with these as o f the s a m e Go thi c

race m ay be enumerated the S wedes who inh abit Finland
, , ,
and the D anes wh o inhabit two o f the B altic isles belonging
,
to Russia 3 T he Fins : these are subdivided into thirtee n
. .
tribes the principal o f which a re the Fins proper in Finland ;

, ,
the E sthonians and Livonians in the governme nts o f Riga
, , ,
and Revel ; the Laplanders ; the Permians and the O stia n s , ,
o f the Ob 4 People o f the T artar race : o f these there are
. .
numerous varieties ; the chie f are the T artars generally so ,

c alled who inh abit the C rimea the southern districts o f th e
, ,
5 G e or gi a n s , C a u c a s ian s , a n d C ir c as s i a n s 6 P e e
. . .
ple the Mongol race these are subdivide into the Mongols
of : d
proper who inh abit the southern part
,
iberia the Calmucks
of S , ,
and the T he amo eds nomadic trib s on the
B o u r i a ts 7 S y . . e
borders the Frozen Ocean
of T he 8 M a n s h ur e s , Y u n gus es ,
. .
'
and L a m ute s T he nomade tribes in the north

9 . east
. an d of
S i e r ia Turks and rmenians in Moldavia and Bessa
g
10 . A
.
, ,
ra ia .
T he limits o f the p r ese nt work we need scarcely add will , ,

not admit o f even a general description o f the various disti nct
classes and tribes which a re comprehended in this immense
empi re We shall there fore direct the attention o f o ur r e ad
.
ers to thos e classes only which possess the greatest p o in ts o f

interest .
Th e R i n ge n er a l m idd le s iz ed , robust, and vig ~

us s i a n s a r e -
or c us , di ffering little in complexion from the inhabitants o f

Great Britain T owards the n orth , they are o f diminutive
.
stature ; but iii the south , tall and grace ful With m o uth and .
lips small white teeth nose u sually small and t urned u p

, ,
wards low forehead thick and bushy beard and th e hair v a
, , ,
r y in g i n color from d ark brown to red ; the general expression
o f the Russian countenance i s that o f gravity rather than o f
sprightliness yet indic a tive o f go o d nature T he females
,
.
h ave a delicate skin and fine complexion which they o ften ,

destroy by the use o f paint T heir personal charms decay .
rem ature ly and their intellect and acc omplishments are rare
,
y su ffi cient to preserve the empire which their early beauty
had acquired .
T h e dr es s of th e d f
f er en t clas s es o
f R s ia
u s exhibitsic o n s id ~
e r ab le variety In summer the p ea s a n ts go with naked feet
.
,
and seldom any covering on their heads ; the men literally
wear nothing more than a shirt and trousers o f striped linen ,
.
T he shirt is c losed at the neck with a buckle or clasp Th e , .
*
31
36 6 NIV E R S A L TR A V E LLE R
U .
R U SS I A .
wo m en wear a blue dress o f dyed linen closed down to the ,

point with buttons and fastened on the shoulders with clasps
, .
It is called a s er r a fa n T heir heads are s ometimes bound .
with handkerchie fs o f various colors .
T he winter dress o f a n obl em a n consists o f a turban o r m e d

cap o f sable fo r the head a large cloak called a s h o o with ,
arms lined throughout with bear Liberian fo x racoon or , , ,

other skins covering the whole body c aped and cu ffed with
, ,
fur .His shoes which are called ka ng ees are made o f elk or
, ,
c a l fi s kin .
T he w i nes o f the native merchants are d ressed in all the

riches their husbands can a fford in a fashion hot sti ff, and , , ,
most discordant with their figures Their petticoat is o f a .
brocade silk gaudily flowered and slung on their shoulde r s

, ,
by a kind o f gallowses thick with embroidery ; the body is ,
covered with a j acket either o f velvet or stu ff bound wit h , ,
g old lace and colors T heir linen sleeves reach to the elbow
. .
T heir neck and arm s are b are hun w ith beads necklaces , , ,
ear and fi n ge r rings innumerable -
ome wear diadems o f .
set with colored stones and pearls ; others a large square

1g
,
old
a n dk e r c h i e f richly sh ot with s ilver and various hues and ,
thrown down their backs one corner being ingeniously wo und ,
round their heads , making a simple and pretty c o ffur e T hey e .
als o wear boots m ade o f leather or velvet according t o th e

, ,
p ecuniary ability o f the purchaser ; indeed this invention fo r

the com fort o f the leg is s o respected here that the smallest ,
in fants j ust able to crawl are encumbered sooner with boots
, ,
than with shirts .
T he military dress o f the Cos s a ck consists o f a close dark

blue j acket and very large full trousers unde r which they
, ,
wear drawers and boots Their head is covered with a high .
black cap o f sheep skin a red bag hangs from its top orna
-
m en te d with a chain o f white worsted lace and tassels a red

strip e rather broad runs along the out side o f the trousers as
, , ,
well as a cord o f the same color round the c a p and sleeves .
A single row o f bu ttons closes the j acket at the breast A .
broad leather belt containing cartridges and to which is sus

, ,
pended a light sabre, con fin es their waist T heir principal .
weapons are a pike a b out eight feet long and a pair o f pis, ,
tols A black belt crosses their le ft shoulder to which is a t
.
,
a
t a c h e d a sort o f tin cartouch — box holding ammunition and , ,

surmounted with a ramrod A n uncouth saddle is bo u nd on .
t h e horse somewhat like a doubl e pillow under which is a

, ,
sq uar e pi ece o f oilcloth painted in various colors T here are,
.
ot hers bu t a great similarity preva ils the only di fference b e

, ,
in g in the color o f the dress which is pink and having the a d , ,

ditio n o f a musket .
*
T he follow ing sum mary o f the character of the Russ ians , is
C o s tum es of R us s ia .
368 IVER S AL TRAVELLE R UN .
R U SSI A
ideas and talents ; and a few o f them have wr itten well i n
French .
A nother characteristic o f the Russians is a cur i os i ty to

pry into the a ff airs o f others T his trait pertains to all ranks .
.
With the greatest ease the nobles ask the most impertinent ,
questions wi th respect to a person s connexions and family ; ’
his property and revenues and his secre t a ffairs and private ,
opinions E vasive answers so fa r from silencing them only
.
, ,
prompt farther their curiosity and they continue to tease him ,
with their demands in all forms either till he lose his patience , ,
and show symptoms o f displeasure or till they extract some ,
intelligence from him Nay s o singular are they that they .
, ,
evidently sho w hurt feelings at his re fusal to grati fy t heir in

q uis i tiv e n e s s espe cially i f he be in the smallest de gree de p end
,
a n t upon them T hey are not contented with m ak i ng i n quiries
.
merely o f himsel f ; they apply to his servant women or his ,

servant men to his lackey or his coachman or to anybody
, , ,
who may be able to give them in formation I f he is living in .
one o f their families the master o r mistress generally is , , ,

acquainted with every thing he does through inquiries made ,
o f his servants .
Ver m i n especially among the pea

a r e a bu n d a n t in R us s i a ,
s antry Many o f the nobles are also surcharged with them
.
,
and even some o f th e ladies are not free from corp or ea l
a n d cr a n i a l insects and o f course require to use the close
,
teethed com b A t the same time it must be admitted that a

.
, ,
fe w are cleanly in their persons T he warmth o f the R ussian .
houses in consequence o f the universal use o f stoves and o f

, ,
coverings o f d i fferent kinds o f fur even within doors partly ,
-
,
account fo r the abundance o f a variety o f vermin while their ,
filthy manners must explain the origin and propagation o f the

rest .
It was formerly a general practice fo r i nd ivi d uals o f all ranks ,
and at the first tables , to retain the same knives and forks d ur ‘
ing dinner at the conclusion o f each dish cleanin g them upon

,
a piece o f bread or sometimes without this ceremony lay , ,
ing them down U pon the tablecloth The same indecorous .
custo m still prevails e x cept in the houses o f the more polished

,
nobles where the knives and forks when put down upon the
, ,
plate are taken away a n d r e p l a c e d by others ; but among the

,
'
lower classes when le ft upon the p late they are taken away
, , ,
w iped and returned so that the same knives and fork s are
—
, ,
u sed fo r a va r iety o f dishes ; fo r fish flesh and fowl A t a Rus , ,

.
sian table every one pleases himsel f so that it not un frequently ,

h appens that one hal f o f a p arty h ave their knives and fork s
changed while the other hal f retain theirs from the commence
,
ment to the conclusion o f the repast In some houses little .
,
low silver stands are placed upon the table one fo r each guest
on purpose to lay the knives and forks upon when not imme ~
, ,
d i a tely requisite It is n o t very uncommon Dr C larke say s

.
,
.
U NIVER S AL T R A VE LLER . 369
M ANN E R S AN D C U S T O M S .
for the Russian servants be fore your eyes to spit up on th e , ,

plates and wipe them with a dirty napkin or a more filthy
, ,
towel A nother abomin able usage is common in the houses
.
o f a ll the princes and all the nobles o f the empire T he ser .
vant men are s o numerous tha t very o ften there is one fo r ,

each guest besides those who serve up th e dishes : so that
,
not un frequently we see tens and even twen ti es o f the m ,
arranged in rows behind the chairs o f the comp any each with ,
a plate under his le ft arm or rather in his arm pit which is ,

-
,
by this means warmed and per fumed by the time the guest he
W aits upon is ready to receive it .
T here are but fe w b eds in the wh ole Rus sian emp ire which
an E nglishman aware o f their condition would venture to , ,
approach It is astonishing th at the Russians should not p ay

.
more attention to fine bed roo ms a n d elegant b eds fo r d aily -
,
convenience and not fo r m ere exhibition espec i ally as m ost
, ,
o f the articles requisite fo r th e purpose are low priced in thei r -
country Few rooms altogether fitted up and furnished like

.
,
bed rooms as in Britain are to be found in the northern em
-
, ,
pire T hey form a luxury whi ch the Russian knows nothing
.
'
o f except what he h as learned in forei n countries heard o f

, g ,
from travellers or read o f in books T he Russians assur edly
, .
have plenty o f s p a lvi or bed rooms a s they c all them whic h ,

-
,
are open to the whole house and o ften form one o f a suite o f ,
rooms in small houses In the palaces and m ansions o f the .
nobles there are elegant rooms containing state beds in whic h

, , ,
no person reposes T hey are generally le ft open and as they .

,
make p art o f a suite o fl c h a m b er s may be reckoned part o f a ,
noblem an s p r a d e o r s h ow r oom s
’
a .
T he Russian nobility when they attend the festivals o f their ,

neighbors generally c arry their beds with them Hence on
, .
the day be fore a fete numerous c arriages filled with nobles , , ,

arrive from time to time some o f them with large bags filled ,
with beds and pillows A fter supper and the conclusion o f .
,
the amusement o f the day c ards & c a scene o f bustle and , ,
.
,
con fus i on follows which seems extremely curious and r idic u
,
lous T he d ining room the drawing room the hall and the
.
-
,
-
,
whole suite o f apartments in which the evening h as been pass ,
ed are converted into bed rooms Dozens o f small painted
,
-
.
and unpainted bedsteads each fo r a single person and o f the

value o f five roubles are speedily transported in to the ch am ~
, ,
bers and arranged along the sides o f the rooms which soon
, ,
resemble a b a fr a c k or the wards o f an h ospital S c ores o f , .
servants belonging to the host and to the visiters are seen run , ,
n i ng back wards and forwards with beds and m attresses pil , ,
lows and linen s h oobs and baggage Many o f these beds have
, .
no i nv i ti ng appearance Others o f the guests who h ave been .

,
less p r o w d e n t than their neighbors are accommodated w it h
. ,
beds from the m aster o f the house and when a scarcity occurs , ,
th e beds o f the servants are put in req u isition It also happens .
fr eq uently that the number o f bedsteads is insu fficient but th is

,
370 U NIVER S AL T R A VELLER .
R U SS I A .
is o f little moment In this case the beds are arranged U po n.

,
the floor upon chairs and upon the flat parts o f som e o f the
, ,
stoves Besides all the so fas and di vans are at once conver t
.
,
ed into places o f repose fo r the night Dr Lyall has drawn a . .
description o f such a scene at a grand fete given by a noble

m an He made a visit to one o f the houses adj oining to the
.
proprietor s mansion in whic h a number o f his acquaintances

’
,
were lodged He found the hall and the drawing room liter
.
-
ally a b arrack S o fas divans and chairs put together cover

.
, , ,
ed with beds and their fatigued or lazy tenants formed the
, ,
scenery o f the first apartment ; in the latter was arranged a
s leep i n g p la ce upon the first floor fo r hal f a dozen noblemen , ,
with beds pi llows s h o ob s &c T he possessors o f this den
, ,
.
'
,
wrapped up in splendid silk n i h t gowns some lying down -
,
some sittin up in bed some rinking co ffee and tea a n d
s moking tog
, ,
acco amidst mephitic air and surrounded by
, ,
chamber utensils and other disagreeable trumpery formed a

, ,
c urious motley association .
An o th er a nd a cur i ous n igh t s cen e t a kes p lac e in the palace s

o f the nobles o f Petersburgh and Moscow , as well a s in those
i n the interior o f the empire T he enormous number o f ser .
v ants o ften 4 00 or 500 attached to the establishment o f the

gran dees , h as excited the surprise o f all E uropean travellers ;
but fe w o f them , perhaps, inquired , or h ad an O pportunity o f
kn o w in how these servants are disposed o f when the evening
p arties reak up Many o f them retire to the wings and the
.
other numerous edifices which are always the concomitants ,

o f a princely fortune i n this country ; and those who are i n
m ates o f the master s dwelling occupy the lower story and the ’
,
back rooms and there they sleep ; the rest m ake their beds
,
U pon the fl oo rs o f the ante chambers and even at ti m es within -
, ,
the rooms T hus the whole range o f the back apartments o f
.
a large h ouse or palace is every night covere d with beds laid

upon the floor and a crowd o f human beings huddled together
, ,
u nder sheep skins s h oobs great coats bed covers or whateve r

-
, ,
-
,
-
,
comes most readily to h and ; so that while the walls of the
elegant suite o f apartmen ts in the front are covered wit h
p aintings the floors in that o f the back are cover ed with h u
,
m an beings like so m any dogs The bad air and filth o f . .
s uch a den on the following morning are indescribable ; and

, ,
the numerous kinds o f vermin which have revelled the whole
n ight can only bear allus ion
,
In the morning all hands are .
,
called to work to remove the beds and other a ccou tr em en ts
, ,
and clear the floor fo r a few hour s when the same scene is ,
r epeated .
Th e R ardent spirits vodh i in the

us s i a n n obl es do n ot d r ink , ,
mornin g as has been represented by some T he custo m i n
,
.
Russia i s to take tea and co ffee at a pretty early hour and gen ,
er ally witho ut ei ther b r ead o r s weet ca k e T he Russi an z av .
372 U NIV E R S A L T RAV E LLER .
R U SS I A .
exemplary in their lives and mix now and then in polite s o ,
c i e ty T he lower orders o f the clergy by fa r the most numer

.
,
ous — including the p op es or parish priests with a fe w ex c ep ,
-
tions know li ttle beyond the per formance o f the d uties o f their
,
c alling F e w o f them are worthy men ; most o f them are
.
dissolute and irregular in their l ives and freely indulge in ,

potations o f S pirits T he higher clergy are not permitted to
.
marry ; no parish priest in the country can be ordained b e~ ,

fore he is married Mr C oxe remarks (a n d the remark is
. .
,
still applicable ) th at persons o f the sacred pro fession are
,
seldom seen at the tables o f the n obility or gentry During .
the five years that he passed at S t Petersburgh though in a l .

,
most constant intercourse with them he never saw at their ,
table an ecclesiastic “ I t must be allowed ” “
he adds that
.
, ,
the parish priests are fo r the most part too low and ignorant , ,
to be qualified fo r admission into genteel society while the ,

dignitaries being a separate order and restrained by sev
, ,
eral strict regulations reside chiefly in their palaces within , ,
their mona s teries A ll the clergy wear long beards and long
.
h air falling over their sho ulders a square bonnet and a long
, ,
robe .
M er ch a n ts c omp os e a class they

th e th i r d cla s s o f s oci et
y . As ,
are singu larly de voted to their a ffairs and to the accumula ,
i t io n and hoarding o f money Very fe w o f them possess any .
knowledge beyond what is necessary fo r these obj ects and the

ceremonies o f their religion Dr Lyall h as portrayed at . .
length the degraded character o f the Russian merchants and ,

explained the pe culiarities o f their ne farious system o f com
merce from long and busy observations made in the theatre
,
o f their actions the bargainin shops at Moscow In succes
g
,
.
sion he speaks o f their d eceit in de m anding three four six

, , , , ,
or even ten times the value o f an article or more than they a o ,
cept o f ; in the a dulterati on o f thei r goods and wares and in
the use o f false weights and false measures ; and then con
e ludes his picture in these strong words T he R ussian mer
chants shopkeepers a n d dealers cheat in the q uantity in the
, , , ,
quality and in the price I f they miss their aim in the quantity
,
.
,
they succeed in the quality ; and i f they fail in both it will be ,
ten to one but that they are success ful in th e price T h e wa r y .
e v en are cheated in one or two o f th e s e ways and the stranger ,

”
is o ften duped by stra t agem in all the three B eyond all ques
, ,
.
tion the Russ i an merchants h ave adopted the following max

,
i m as the guide o f their actions
T h e p ro p er v alue o f a th ing
I s j u s t as m uch a s I t Wi ll b ri n g .
T he Russians are trained up to villany from their youth and

the expertness o f boys o f eight and ten years o f age in the arts
o f their m asters is incredi b le
,
they are children in almost every
U N IVER S A L T RAVELLER . 373
P E A S A N TR Y .
thing but men in deception A nd so w idely di ffused is the sys

,
.
tem o f imposition that even the peasant who knows little b e, , ,
yon d his field his yard his horse and his t eleg a (a small cart )
, , , , ,
is a per fect knave when he comes to market U n fortunately .

,
also the same system prevails wherever the Russians have
,
conquered or treacherously acquired new dominions T he
,
.
T artars in the C rimea and the Georgians at T efli s have co m , ,
p l et e ly adopted the Russian mode o f commerce with all its ,

d etestable details .
T h e f o u r th a nd la s t clas s o f th e s u bj ec ts o f R us s i a is comp os ed
of th e ea s a n ts T hese with fe w exceptions are all slaves
,
.
,
.
T hey orm classes peasants o f the crown and peasants

two —
,
belonging to individuals T he late emperor A lexander did .
, ,
much to lessen the evils o f the former and to render their man ,
u m i s s i o n as well as that o f the latter class more easily p r a c t i
, ,
cable Yet the condition o f both is still degrading and dep l e r
.
‘
able It is calculated that about a sixth part o f the peasantry b e

.
long to the crown ; these are immediately under the j u r is dic

tion o f imperial o fii c e r s : many have been en franchised a n d ,
have become burghers P easants belonging to individual s . .
are their private property as much as the cattle on their e s

tates The rent pa i d by the crown peasants is fixed ; that
.
p aid by private peasants is regulated by their means o f getti n g

money or in other words is a tax on their industry T here
, ,
.
is no law to restrain the demands o f the master ; their time

and their labor are absolutely at his command S ome o f the .
nobility send their slaves to S t P etersburgh or Moscow to be .

,
instructed in various trades ; and then eith er employ them on ,
their own estates let them fo r hire sell to them permission to

-
, ,
e x ercise their trade or dispose o f them at an advance price ,
.
S ome o f the Russian nobles have or peasants

from this it may well be supposed that their wealth is immens e ,
in whatever manner the labor o f these slaves is employed .
Women and children as well as men must labor fo r their mas , ,

ter fo r such pay as his caprice or his wants may dispose or
,
enable him to give Tithes are besides demanded o f what .
ever may remain in their hands A s soon as the child reaches .
the age o f ten its labor is requ ired ; and when he reache s fi f
,
teen each m ale slave is obli ed by law to labor three days in

,
each week fo r his master I the proprietor chooses to employ .
him the other days he may ; as fo r e x ample in a manu factory ,

in this case however he finds him in foo d and clothing In
, ,
.
general the master instead o f e x acting the labor o f his slave

, ,
fo r the stated portion o f the week a gr e e s t o receive a rent
'
, ,
and he is bound to furnish him with a house and a certain por
ti on o f land ; the aged and infirm are provided with food rai ,
ment and lodging at his expense
, .
The master has the power o f correcting his slaves by blows .
or confinement ; b u t the law — which however is easily eval , ,

ded forbids th ex er c is e o f any great cruelty No slave c a n
e
-
.
gg
37 4 NIV E R S A L T RAVELLER U .
R U SS IA .
quit his v illage or if he be a domesti c slave his master s fa m

, ,
’
ily without a passport

,
Imprisonment w ith h ard labor is the .
p unishment fo r runaway slaves A master may send his slave .
to the public workhouse or into the army ; in the latter case ,

he sends one man les s the next levy No slave can be sold .
out o f Russia nor in it except to a noble but this law is fr e

,
.
,
quently eluded A slave may obtain his liberty by m an u m is
.
sion (this is frequently granted to favorite domestic slaves on

the death o f their master ) by purchase or by s er vin g in the , ,
army or navy .
T he political sta te o f the Russ i an peasantry d egrading and ,

injurious as it is to the highest energies and best feelings o f
our nature is not however much aggravat e d by their condition
, , ,
in other respects I f any thing could atone fo r personal and
.
political slavery it m ight be justly maintained that a large

, ,
class o f the peasantry o f Ireland fro m the total absence o f d o ,
m e s tic com fort among them are in a more miserable state ,
than the slaves o f Russia T heir houses formed o f w hole .
,
trees and usually constructed solely with the assistance o f the
,
hatchet are in tolerable repair and well adapted to their
, ,
habits T hey sometimes but not o ften consist o f two stories :
.
, ,
the lower forms a storeroom in the upper one they dwell A .
kind o f ladder on the outside serves as a staircase There i s .
generally but one room in the h abitable part T heir furniture .
s eldom comprises more than a wooden table and benche s ,
fastened to the sides o f the room wooden platters bowls and , , ,

spoons and perhaps a large earthen pan to cook their victual s
,
in T heir diet is substantial ; black rye bread eggs salt fish
.
-
, , ,
mushrooms and bacon ; a hotch potch o f salt or fresh meat

,
-
,
groats and rye fl o u r seasoned w ith onions and garlic con
,
-
, ,
s titu t e s their favorite d ish O f this kind o f food they obtai n .

,
plenty at a cheap rate T heir clothing however is dear T o .

, ,
.
clothe a Russian peasant or soldier costs nearly three times ,

as much as in E ngland ; but their clothi n g is strong and being ,
made l oose and wide lasts longer It is rare to see a Russi a n ,

.
in rags In general the Russian peasants are a large coarse

.
, , ,
hardy race o f great bodily strength rarely below the middle

, ,
stature strong limbed commonly lean but well built Their
,
-
, ,
.
mouth and eyes are small their lips thin teeth even and , ,
beauti ful ; their hair brown reddish or flaxen ; their beard , ,
strong and bushy T heir orga n s o f taste smell sight and hear
.
, , ,
ing are acute especially the latter two T hey are brisk and
, ,
.
active and by no means wanting in industry when they have

,
an interest in exertion T he complexion o f the female peas .
a u try is br u n ette their skin in general delicate S ome of them .

,
as well as o f th e other classes are e x tremely handsome F e ,

.
males o f all ranks soon attain maturity but fall o ff and look ,
o ld at “
a very early period o f li fe T he frequent use o f the hot .
bath is supposed to occasion this premat ure decay among all

classes ; while amon the higher ranks the odi ous practi ce o f ,
painting the face an among the peasantry hard work the i r
, ,
.
376 NIVER S A L T R A VELLER U .
R U SS I A .
“A t the conclusion o f the long fast which closes o n the 1

,
o f December (0 S ) the Russians lay in their provisions fo r
,
. .
the rem aining part o f the winter For this purpose an annual .
,
m arket which lasts three days is held upon the river near the
, , ,
fortress A long street above a mile in length was lined o n
.
, ,
each side with an immense store o f provisions su fficient fo r ,
the s u pply o f this capital fo r the three following months .
Many thousand raw carcasses o f oxen sheep ho s pigs to , , , ,

gether with geese fowls and every species o f rozen food , ,
were exposed to sale T he larger quadrupeds were grouped .
in various circles u p r i ht their hind legs fixed in the snow

, , ,
with their heads and ore legs turned to each other ; these
.
tow ered above the rest and occupied the hindermost row ,
.
Next to them succeeded a regu lar series o f animals descend ,

ing gradually to the s mallest intermixed with poultry and ,
game hanging in festoons and garnished with heaps o f

, ,
ter fish and eggs I soon perceived from the pro fusion o f
, ,
.
p artridges pheasants moor fowls and cocks o f the woo d that

, , , ,
there were no laws in this c ountry which prohibited th e selling
o f game I observed also the truth o f which has been fr e
.
,
quently asserted th at many o f the birds as well as several
, ,
animals in thes e northern re gions become white in winter , ,
m any hundred black cocks be i ng changed to that color ; and
some which had been taken be fore they h ad completed thei r
metamorphosis exhibited a mixture o f black and white plu
,
m age T he most distant quarters contributed to supply this
.
vast store o f provisio n s ; and the finest veal had been sent by
land carriage as far as from A rcha n el which i s situated at ,
the distance o f 8 30 miles from S t e te r s b u r gh ; yet every .
species o f food is surprisingly cheap In order to render .
this frozen food fit fo r dressing it is first thawed in cold ,

water Frozen meat however certainly looses much o f its
.
, ,
flavor and accordingly the tables o f persons o f condition

, , ,
and those o f the E nglish merchants are supplied with fresh ,
killed
R us s i a is c el ebr a t ed this the f or i ts i n t er n a l n a vi g a t i o n . Of ,
randest branch is that which brings S t P etersburgh the pro
guce o f the southern provinces by means o f the canals o f La
.
,
doga and V y s h n ei V o lo s h o k which unite the Baltic and the ,
C aspian : goods a r e thus conveyed to the capital through a
tract o f 1 4 34 miles without once lan d i ng them T his naviga ,
.
tion begins at S t Petersburgh by the Neva which issues from

.
, ,
lake Ladoga B y a canal uniting the V o lc h o f which falls into
.
,
the Volga the communication between the Baltic and the Cas
,
pian is e ff ected T he canals o f Lad o ga and V y s h n ei V o lo s h o k

.
likewise enable S t P etersb u rgh to receive the produce o f C h i

.
n a an d S iberi a almost entirely by inland navigation T he .
dis ta nce from S t Petersburgh to the frontiers o f China is from

.
,
C ox e
’
s Tr a vl e s in P o l an d, R uss i a. &c .
P 3 77
. .
Win ter A m u s em ent .

378 U N I V E R S AL TR AVELL ER .
R U SS I A .
ver sits at the further

end near the horse s tail ; the hinder ,
’
p art is covered with a tilt open in front m ade o f l aths and , , ,

c overed with birch or other b ark T he whole m achine does
,
.
not contain a single piece o f iron and there are no springs ,

the body o f the carriage is fastened to the wheels by wooden
pins ropes and sticks I n order to prevent the inconvenience
, ,
.
th at would arise from the j olting in such roads as those o f

Russia a feather bed is usually placed at the bottom With
, .
this precaution a ki bi tlra is a snug and com fortable vehicle

, .
In some parts o f T artary the t 0p is taken o ff at night and , ,

serves as a tent ; hence the Russians call the tents o f the C a l
m ucks ki bi tka .
A n E nglish traveller who had visited the most re m ote and ,

desolate parts o f the S cotch Highlands even h al f a century ,
a ge would be ill prepared to encounter the inconveniences
, ,
discom forts a n d privations to which he would be exposed in
,
j ourneying fro m one capital o f Russia to the other i f he did ,
not carry alo n g with him the means o f preventing or remedy
ing them T he representations o f Dr C larke with regard to
. .
the condition o f Russia m ust be taken with much caution ,

and qu alification ; yet he speaks but the language o f all othe r ,
travellers i n this country when he advises th at nothing should ,
b e expected from inns or houses o f entertainment not even ,
cle a n straw fo r a bed He enumerates the fo llo w in articles .
as forming an indispensable portion o f the traveller s a gga ge ’
a —a pewter tea pot a kettle ; a sauce p an the top o f wh i ch

- -
,
m ay be used a s a dish tea sug a r and a large cheese ; lo aves , ,
o f bread m ade into rusks ; i f in the winter frozen m eat ; wine ,

in the cold districts vinegar in the hot T hus prepared he ,
.
,
m ay s a fely encounter this long j ourney .
T h e R u s s i a n s u s e th e b a th a s a m ea n s of p r es er vi n g cl ea n li o
n es s a n d h ea lth , as a lu x ury , and as an amusement B aths .
are to be found in any part o f the e mpire , and are among the
pl a ces o f resort fo r the lower or d ers T he fo llo w in g a c c o unt .
‘
o f their vapor baths was communicated to Mr -

C o x e by an .
English gentleman at S t Petersburgh , who was ordered to .
b athe fo r his health T he bathing room was small an d low,

.
-
and contained a heap o f large stones piled over a fire and

two bro ad benches one near the ground and the other near , ,
the ceili n g S mall buckets o f water bein g occasionally thrown
.
u pon the heated stones filled the room with a hot and su if e ,
c ating vapor which fr om its tendency to ascend rendered
, ,
the upper part much hotter than the lower : Hav m g taken o ff
my clothes I laid mysel f d own upon the h i ghest bench wh i le
, ,
the bathing wom an was preparing tubs o f hot and cold water ,
and continued to increase the vapor in the m anner above

mentioned Having dipped a branch o f twig s into the not
.
water she repeatedly sprinkled and then rubbed Wi th i t my

, ,
whole body In about hal f an hour I removed to the lower
.
,
ben c h which I found much cooler where the b athi ng woman
. ,
U N I V ER S AL TRA V E LLE R . 379
U S E M EN T S AM .
lathered me from head to foo t with soap scru bbed me w i th ,

flannel fo r the space o f ten minutes and throwing several ,
b uckets o f warm water ov e r me till the soap was entirely ,
washed o ff she then d ried me with napkins A s I put on my

,
.
clothes in a room without a fire I had an opportunity o f r e ,

m arking that the cold air had little e ffect o n my body tho u gh
, ,
in so heated a state : fo r while I was dressing I felt a glow o f ,
warmth which continued during the whole night T his cir .
c u m s t a n c e convinced me that when the natives rush from t h e ,

va p o r ~ b a th s into the river or even roll in the snow their sen , ,
‘
s a ti o n s are in n o respect disagreeable nor the e ff ects in any ,

degree
T he other most characteristic and favorite amusements in
S t Petersburgh are singi ng dancing swinging and descend
.
, , , , ,
ing the ice —hills A ll the R u ssians are fo n d o f m us ic and they
.
,
possess m any airs o f exquisite simplic ity and pathos ; not in f
feri e r in these respects to th e old n ational airs o f S cotland or

Ireland though peculiar and with a very m arked character
, ,
.
In every town and Village these popular ditties are sung by ,
the lower classes : and the higher ranks in S t P etersburgh .
m ake it a customary recreation to take with them in their ,

water parties a b and o f e x pert singers and o ften h ave them
, ,
at their tables at h ome to sing the popular Russian ballads , .
T he old popular ballads are also sometimes sung to the G o a
lub e tz a favorite nat i onal dance

,
T his like all dances o f rud e .
p eople is pantomimic : the modest solicitations o f the lover

, ,
and the a ffected coyness o f the fair one are e x hibited by a ,
variety o f gestures and movements T he s w in g is the amuse .
ment o f all ranks and conditions a n d E aster witnesses it in ,
its greatest per fection swin gs bein g t h en set up in all the pub
,
lic squares A nother kind o f holyday diversion is the ice

.
,
hills A sca ffold abo u t thirty feet high is erec ted on the Neva
.
,
on one side o f it a re steps or a ladder to ascend to the plat , ,
form on the top ; on the opposite side a steep inclined plane , ,
about four y ards broad and th ir ty l o ng descends to the river ; , ,
this is supported by strong poles and its sides are protecte d ,

by a parapet o f fl a nks Large square blocks o f ice a b out .
,
four inches thick are laid upon the inclin e d plane close to
, ,
one another and smoothed wit h the axe ; they are then con
,
solidated by water thrown over them Th e snow is cleared .
away at the bottom o f the pla n e fo r the le n gth o f t w o hundred

yards and the breadth o f four ; and the si d es o f this course as ,
well as those o f the sc a ffolding are ornamente d and protected ,
with firs and pines E ac h p erson provided w ith a little low
.
“
,
s ledge something like a b u tch er s tray mounts the ladder
,
’
, ,
and glides with i conceivable rapidity down the inclined n
plane poising his sledge as he goes d own T he momentum

, .
t hus acquired carries h i m to a second hill at the foot o f which

, , ,
he alights mounts again and in the same manner glides down
, ,
C ox e ’
s Tr ave l s.
380 NIVER S A L TR A V ELLER
U .
R U SS I A .
th e other inclined plane o f ice The boys a lso amuse them .
s elve s in sk ating do wn these hills S ummer hi lls constructe d .

-
,
in imitation o f the ice h ills also a fford a favorite amusement
-
,
to the inh abitants o f S t Petersbur h especially during their

.
,
carnivals T hese co nsist o f a s e a old between thirty or forty
.
feet high With an inclined plane in front flowers and boughs

.
,
o f trees sheltering the person in his descent a small narrow , ,
cart on four wheels is used instead o f the sledge below there ,
is a level stage o f some hundred feet in length along which
.
,
he is carried by the impulse o f his descent T he winter is the .
season when the most characteristic amusements o f the Rus

sians m ay be witnessed especially on the Neva ,
S carcely
'
”
a day passed says Mr Coxe th at I did not take my m orn
.
, ,
ing walk or drive in a sledge on that r iver Many carriage s
,
.
a n d sled es and nu mberless foot passenger s perpet ually cross

,
ing it a ord a constant succes sion o f moving obj ects and the
, ,
ice is also covered with d i fferent groups o f people dispersed or ,
gathered together and variously employed as their fancy lea ds
,
them In one part there are several long areas railed o ff fo r
.
,
the purpose o f skating ; a little further is an enclosure where ,

*
i n a noblem an is training his horses and teaching them the ,

various evolutions o f th e minage In another part the crowd .
,
are spectators o f what is called a sledge race T he course is -
.
an oblong space about the lengt h o f a mile and su fficiently ,

broad to tu r n the carriage It can hardly be denominated a
.
race fo r there is only a si n gle sledge drawn by two horses ;

, ,
and the whole art o f the driver consists in making the sha ft
horse trot as fast as he can while the other is pushed into a ,
gallop .
T h er e a r e th r ee i ns tr u m en ts f or wh ip p in g in use in Russia ,
two o f which resemble a cat o nine tails, and the knout The
’ - - -
.
latter, besides being applied to petty o ffenders , is the first and

preparatory punishment o f\ felo n s “ ”
One morning, s ays Mr . .
“
Coxe , as I was casua lly strolling through the streets o f S t .
Petersburgh , near the m arket place , I observed a large crowd o f

-
people flocking to one particular spot U pon inquiring o f my .
Russian servant the cause o f this concourse , he in formed me,

that the multitude was assembled in order to see a felon , who
had been convicted o f murder , receive the knout A ltho u gh .
I natu rally shuddered at the very idea o f being a spectator o f

the agonies o f a fellow creature , yet my curiosity overcame
my feelings W ith the assistance o f my servant, I penetrated
.
'
through the crowd , and ascended the r o o f o f a wooden h ouse ,

o f one story , from whence I had a distinct ie w o f the dread ful V
O peration hich was already begun T he executioner held in
,
w .
his h and the knout This instrument is a thong about the

.
thick ness o f a crown piece and about three fourths o f an inch

,
broad and rendered extremely hard by a p ec uliar kind o f pre
,
a r a ti o n ; it is tied to a th i ck platted whip which is connec ted
py means o f an iron ring with a small piece o f lea ther that acts
,
,
3 82 NIVER S AL TRAVELLE R
U .
R U SS I A .
k ing in token o f submission and he fails not to emp loy it as

, ,
the instrument o f his authority B ut the barbarous treatment .
o f wives by their husb ands which formerly exten ded to the ,

right o f putting them to the torture or even to death is now , ,
guarded against either by the laws o f the country or by par
, ,
t ic ul a r stipulations in the m arriage contract .
Th e f c er em
un er a lo n i es especially in the distant
,
provinces ,
embrace some peculiar customs S oon a fter a person expires .
,
the body is dressed in its usual clothes and laid in a co ffi n with , ,
a luncheon o f bread a pair o f shoes and a fe w pieces o f m e
, ,
ney ; and a priest is hired to pray fo r the soul to purify the ,
body with incense and to sprinkle it occasionally with holy
,
water till the time o f interment When it is carried to the
,
.
grave the priest produces a ticket sign ed by the bishop and

, ,
another clergyman and directed to S t Nicholas : this is con
,
.
s id e r e d as the passport to heaven and is placed bet ween the ,

fingers o f the deceased T he body is then lowered into the
.
grave and the attendan ts return to the house whence the fu

,
neral r o c ee d e d to drown their s o r r o w in i n to x ic atin g dra ughts
,
.
T he une r a l festivities are continued with very little interrup ,

.
tion fo r the space o f forty days ; during which a prayer is daily

,
recited over the grave by th e priest ; fo r although the doctrine
o f purgatory is not received by the Russians they suppose that ,
suc h prayers may assist their departed friend in his long j our
ney to his place o f final destination A n annual feast is like .
wise held fo r the dead at the commencement o f the new year ;

,
when every o n e attends the graves o f his departed relations ,
and places some victuals upon them wh i ch become the p er q ui ,
site o f the priests who celebrate m as s up on the occasion .
AS IA .
T HE c ontinent o f A sia now lies be fore u s — a territo r y which

stretches from the Dardanelles to Behring s S trait about ’
,
British m le s ; this is its length In breadth it extends from
. .
,
the southern cape o f the peninsula o f Malacc a to the most
northern par ts o f S iberia about miles In comparison
’
.
,
with E urope there fore it is at least six times larger Its ih
, ,
.
h abitants are more than double as are also the various lan ,
guages or dialects which are spoken A siatic Russia alone
,
.
contains m o r e th a n one hundred tribes d i ffe r in gi n languages

'
, ,
m anners and religion

,
.
A sia on many accounts is an i nte r e s tin portion o f the

, ,
globe especially from the circumstances t at both sacred
, ,
and pro fane history h ave here placed the primeval seat o f the
human race and c oncur in pointing out this as the quarter
,
whence population h as gradually extended over the rest o f the
earth G reat as the population o f A sia is in the aggregate
.
,
numerically it is fa r less than might be expected in regions so
early peopled and aboun d ing in every production which can
,
contr ibute to t h e subsistence or com fort o f m ankin d One ,
cause fo r this comp a r a t i vely limited population and perhaps ,

the most operative is the feeble and despotic ch aracter o f the
,
overnments which prevail S uch governments are un friend
g
.
y to vir t ue industry ,
and enterprise and consequently
,
to ,
population S till the four or five hundred millions found on
.
,
A siatic territory are one o f the best proo fs o f the kindness o f
,
nature and the luxuriance o f the soil
, .
O f this large pr e portion o f the hu m an race s cattered over ,
the extensive regions o f A sia fe w enj oy the blessings o f free ,

dom and civilization Despotism stretches its iron hand with .
,
l ittle interruption from one ex tremity o f this vast continent to
,
the other ; and arrested by its benumbing influence the know ,
ledge and arts o f civilized li fe h ave not e x panded into that
full per fection to which they have attained in regions cheered
by the more genial rays o f freedom On the condition o f s e .
c le ty in A sia its religions too have shed the most bane ful ih
, , ,
flu e n c e . T o these perh aps more than to any other causes
, , ,
are to be attributed the retardation o f improvement and the ,
debasement o f the human character in this q uarter o f the ,
globe .
From that same source alas ! from which we dra w ,
o ur h i gh e s t hopes has o ft en likewise flowed the d eepest degra ~
“
dat i on o f our race During t h e last century and more espe

.
,
e i a lly o f late years various attempts have bee n m ade in d i f
, ,
fe r e n t parts o f this cont inent to withdra w the inh abitants from ,
the preva i l i ng superstitions by acquainting them with the
.
,
3 84 U NIVER S A L TR A V E LLER .
CIRC A SS I A N S .
purer doctrines and institutions o f C hristianity Missionarie s .
from E urope and A merica have been fo r years and are still ,
attempting to spread the light o f the gospel over di fferent p arts
.
O f A sia . A fe w spots O f this vast region have been rescued

from the cruel d espotism o f S atan and some feeble rays O f ,
gospel light sent through its spiritual darkness C omparative .
ly little success has crowned the e fl b r ts O f the pious and b e

n e v o le n t .T his however has not O perated even to cool the
, ,
ardor by which the friends o f mankind are actuated Nor .
should it For we know that a period is fixed in the counsels

.
o f heaven when
“the knowledge o f the Lord shall cover the
,
earth a s the waters cover the sea Whether this period be
”
.
near or whether it be distant is not fo r us to determine B ut

, ,
.
when it shall come we may look forward to it as the era o f a

, ,
happy revolution in the conditio n o f A s iatic society ; as the
era whence the stagnating current o f its civilization shall
again begin to flow a n d its fettered energies be s et free from
,
their confinement For the e x perience o f its e ffects in other
.
regions permits us not to doubt that along w ith the religion , ,

o f Jesus in th is quarter o f the world also shall be s e w n the
,
seeds o f civil liberty and be laid the foundations o f p r o gr e s

,
sive improvement .
H aving occupied so large a S pace in the record o f o ur o b

s e r v a t i o n s in relation to A merica and E urope we feel obliged ,
in our survey o f the inhabitants o f this portion o f the globe to ,
proceed upon the principle o f selection and to turn our atten ,
tion to those nations and tribes only an acquaintance with ,
whose m anners and customs m ay be supposed to be most

valuable and interesting .
AS IAT IC T R I BE S .
1 . C IRC A S S I A N S .
Th e C i r c a s s i a n sf who occupy the

co n s i s t o n u m er o u s tr i b es ,
mountainous districts between the B lack S e a and the C a s
pian T hey have long been celebrated fo r the beauty o f th eir
.
features a nd the symmetry o f their form ; an d not W i thout

,
reason T heir noses are aq uiline th e ir eyebrows arched
.
,
and regular mouths small teeth remarkably white and their
, , ,
ears neither so large nor so prominent as a m ong the T artars , ,

their neighbors T heir hair is brown o f various shades gen
.
, ,
e r a lly dark and sometimes approaching to black

,
T hey are .
o f the middle size r arely exceeding five feet eight or n i ne

,
i nches in height ; and they are finely shaped and very acti ve .
T hey bear in their countenance a most striking ex p r e s s w n O I

ferocious valor cunning suspicion and distrust
,
T he women , ,
.
are fi nel y s ha p ed have very delicate features smooth clear

. ,
.
U NI V E R S A L T R AV EL LE R . 3 85
D R E SS .
c omplexions beauti ful b lack eyes and a fascinating perfection

, ,
o f countenance T heir feet are remarkably sm all a n e ffect
.
,
o f their forcing them when very young into very ti ght sl i p

.
, ,
pers ; and their slender waists which are cons i dered as the ,
and essential o f b eauty are prod uced by li ght lac i ng i n ,
e a th er n b elts put on from the hour o f t he i r b i rth and worn ,
,
till they are married T his preposterous custom renders the .
shoulders disproportionably broad Many o f th e T urk i sh .
and Persian h arems are supplied with these females who are
'
,
c arried o ff by the petty princes in their plunderi ng exped i ti ons ,
and sold or if this method fail they sell their own daughters ,
or those O f their vassals .
T h es e
p eop have th e legs
l e, i n t h ei r feet c om m o n a t t ir e, , ,
and arm s with a considerable portion o f the body n aked
, ,
.
T hey wear no shirt and only a pair o f coarse ragged drawers, ,

reaching a little below th e knee Over their shoulders they .
c arry even in th e midst o f summer a heavy thick cloak o f

, ,
felt or the hide o f a goat with the h air outwards reach i ng b e
, ,
low the waist U nder this covering appear the s abre musket
.
,
b o w q u iv e r and other weapons
, ,T heir heads are shorn and .
,
covered with an embroidered cap quilted with cotton in the
_
, ,
form O f a melon ; this among the wealthy is ornamented with , ,
gold and silver laces In some n ations the dress o f the supe .
,
rior persons is more elegant T he under garment is m ade o f .
a light s tu fl, over which is worn a short rich waistcoat ; and ,

this is surmounted with a cloak O f cloth or other strong ,
woven s tu ff somewh at shorter than the under garment with
, ,
the sleeves slit open and bordered with furs and furnished , ,
with two small embroidered breast pockets fo r containing ,
c artridges The breeches are m ade with knee straps and
.
-
,
the seams are bound with small lace or embroidery which , ,
the women very skil fully m anu facture o f gold and silver
threads .
T he C ircassians are excelle nt equestri a ns ; their horses are

high bred A rabians and extremely fleet ; and they so much ,
excel the C ossacks in horsemanship that the latter acknow ,

ledge their inability to overtake them in pursuit .
When a prince or u s d e n pays a visit in full dress h e arrays

, , ,
himsel f with all his acco u trements and co at o f arms over ,
which he occasionally has an additional j acket o f mail When .
people o f the lower class do not carry a sabre with their other
arms they have a strong sta ff a b o ut fo u r feet and a hal f in
, ,
’
length with a large iron head at o n e end and a sharp iron

, , ,
ke about eighteen inches long at the other which they thro w
pie a dart wit h great accuracy Persons o f wealth and rank
'
,
,
,
.
,
never leave their dwellin s without a s abre nor do they v e n g

;
t ure beyond the limits o f th e village otherwise than completely
arrayed with their breast pockets wel l sup p lied with ball car
,
t r i d ge s fo r every one plunders his neighbor
,
—
T he inhabit .
ants o f th e pl a ins go co m pletely armed to the labors o f the

33
386 U NIVER S AL TRAVELLER .
CIRC A SS I A N S .
fi eld ; the crops are guarded by armed men ; and the im ple
m ents o f husbandry are not more essential to the harvest than ,
the carbine the pistol and the sabre
, ,
.
T he dress o f the f em a les consists o f a tight j acket over the

under garment and an open p etticoat which reaches to th e an
, ,
kl e s . T he head is covered with a cap somewhat r e s e m b in g ,
that o f the other sex but drawn up at top in form o f a crown ,
.
U nder this the hair is turned up in a thick queue which i s

, ,
also covered with a piece o f fine linen Married women wear .
wide trousers ; and a fter the birth o f their first child they b e ,
gin to cover the head with a white kerchie f drawn close over ,
the forehead and fa s tened under the chin When females

,
.
go abroad they wear high wooden clogs to keep their feet

, ,
clear and draw m ittens over their d elicate hands Girls are
,
.
pe rmitted to dye the finger nails with the flowers o f b a ls a m i

na ,
called h n a in their dialect ; but painting the face is con
s id e r e d as a meretricious artifice .
T h e h o us es , f are m ade o f platted

or h u ts , o th es e p eop le
o siers plastered within and without and covered with straw
, ,
.
Forty or fi fty o f them placed in a circle constitute a vill age ,

.
T h e utmost cleanliness prevails in these dwellings as well as ,
in the persons dress and cookery o f the inhabitants E ach

, , ,
.
family ha s two o f these huts ; one appropriated to the u s e O I

the husband and the reception o f strangers ; the other to the
,
wi fe and family A t meals the whole family is a ssembled .
,
together ; their food is extremely simple c onsisting only o f ,
a little meat some millet paste and a fermented beer ma d e

, , ,
o f the same grain In their excursions their saddle serves .

,
fo r a pillow their piece o f felt fo r a bed and their large

, ,
cloak fo r a covering In bad weather they construct a .

,
sm all tent with the felt which is supported by branches o f ,
trees .
with their face

Th e M oh a m m ed a n Ci r c a s s ia n s bu r y th ei r d ea d
towards Mecca and the
; or priest reads some
m o o lla h , ,
passages rom the oran at the uneral
f K f which he is usu
,
fo r
ally rewarded wit the best horse
h the deceased T he
Of .
most valuable e ects were ormerly uried ith the body ; but
ff f b w
now his common clothes only are burie lack is worn fo r
d B .
a twelvemonth except
,
f such as are slain in battle with the
o r
Russians whose spirits are believed to pass immediately into
,
p a radise ; so great is the merit deemed o f O pposition to that
n ation w hich they utterly abh or
,
When the head o f a family .
dies the surviving wido w expresses her a ffl iction by scratch

, ,
in g her face and bosom t ill the blood issues ; a n d the men strike
their faces wit h a whip till they produce black spots which , ,
they exhibit fo r a considerable time a fter w a r d s fi ‘
Vie w of th e M anners an d C u s t om s o f all N at ion s.

3 89 U ni vE R s AL TR A VELLE R .
letter on the breast o f the corpse requiring , St . Peter to admit

his soul into the mansions o f the blessed .
3 . TAR TAR s .
T hese people are divided into numerous clans or hordes ; ,

each o f which has some peculiar manners ; but our limits will
allow little more than a general V iew o f them The country .
named a fter them has Persia Tibet and C hina on the south , , , ,
from whence they are di ffused as fa r as the Northern Ocean .
T hey h ave in all ages been a w a n d e r in g p e o p le renowned fo r ,

their invincible courage and surprising conquests C hina , .
,
Hindostan Persia and part o f E urope have all witnessed

, , ,
their prowess and been subjugated by their arms T hey
, .
,
n evertheless disdain the confinement o f a sedentary li fe and
, ,
on every re turn o f the spring they recommence their pere ,
g r i n a t i O n s. When they find a fertile spot they pitch thei r ,

tents and when all the produce is consumed remove in ques t
, ,
o f a fresh supply .
S pread over a vast extent o f c ountry where they are sub ,
j e c te d to great diversities o f clim ate and local circumstances ,

the di fferent tribes O f T artars e x hibit con s i d er a ble va r i ety i n
t h ei r p h ys i c a l a n d m or a l ch a r a c t er s though always retaining ,
distinctive m arks o f the original stock T he genuine T artar .
is O f the middle size and thin str o ng a thletic and robust

, , , ,
.
His head is oval his face flat his forehead wrinkled ; his eyes
, ,
are small but e x pressive and generally black ; his eyebrows
, ,
are heavy his cheek bones high his nose is short and thick ;
,
-
his mouth sm all teeth white and even ; his chin long his h air
, ,
dark brown or black ; his complexion thou h dark is ruddy , ,

and lively ; his countenance is open and r ien dly his body ,
well proportioned with an easy respect ful deportment He
, ,
.
is fierce warlike and fond O f hunting ; despising fatigue a t

, , ,
t ac h e d to independence ; and frequently inhuma n ly savage .
T he bloom o f health and symmetry o f shape cause the females

to rival in er s o n al c h a r m s the women O f most E uropean
countries . e m p er a n c e and cleanliness are characteristics in
both sexes .
T he w ea lth o f the T artars consists in their flocks and herds ,

which th ey exchange with the Russians and other traders fo r , ,
clothes fo r t h emselves and families T heir dr es s consists .
principally o f large calico shirts and drawers T hose in the .
northern parts are lined with sheep skins ; while in the south -
ern districts they seldom wear shirts in the summer and use
, ,
a kind o f doublet without sleeves made o f sheep skin with

, ,
-
,
wool outside In winter the skin is worn with the wool inside
.
,
.
A large s h eep f s k in robe fastened about the waist with straps,

-
,
o fte n covers the whole Capacious boots and small round .
,
cap s o f leather edged with fur complete their costume T h e

, ,
.
U N IV E R S AL T RA V ELL ER . 38 9
D R E SS— FOOD — D WE LLI N GS .
dress o f the females di ffers little from that o f the men : i n the
warmer parts their c alico garment alone is worn in summer ;
,
but in winter they add a large sheep skin gown or robe and -
, ,
a cap o r bonnet similar to that o f the men Red is the colo r
,
-
,
.
highest in esteem with the T artars : their chie fs though other ,
wise meanly attired seldom fail to have a s carlet robe fo r state

,
occasions ; and a wom an o f quality would not thi nk hersel f
well dressed were she without a garment o f this hue T hese
,
.
robes are o ften made o f silk or stu ff over which a sheep skin , ,
-
coat is worn In time o f war they cover their heads and

.
,
bodies with iron net work the links o f which are close eno ugh
-
,
to be proo f against any weapons except fi rearm s o f which , ,
they stand in great awe .
A s the T artars in general neither s ow nor reap nor make ,

hay fo r their cattle vegetables scarcely form any part o f their
,
diet : a little millet is the only grain they use and this but ,
sparingly T hey live upon horse fle s h mutton fish wild fowl
.
-
, , ,
-
,
and venison ; but are not fond o f bee f or veal T hey have .
plenty o f mil k b utter and cheese ; but m are s milk is always

, ,
’
pre ferred ; and from this they make a very strong spirit O f ,
which they are very fond .
T h e or di n a r y d w elli n g s o f the T artars consist o f sm all tents ,

o f an o v al form covered with a kind o f felt in which both sexes
, ,
are promiscuously lodged : the small aperture which serves

fo r a door always faces the south
,
E ven the houses or pal .
,
aces o f the great are no more than wooden huts that may
, , ,
be conveniently fixed on large wagons and dra wn by a team ,
O f twenty or thirty oxen .
A ll the T artars are e x cellent ri ders and constant practice ,

h as given them s o fi r m a seat that they have been supposed ,
to per form the ordinary duties o f civil li fe to eat to drink and , , ,
even to sleep without dismounting T hey excel in the man
,
.
a e m e n t o f the lance : the long T artar bow is drawn with a

g
nervous arm and the arrow is directed to its O bj ect with a l
,
most unerring aim and irresistible force T he general hunt .
ing m atches the pride and delight o f the T artar princes con
-
, ,
s t it ut e instructive exercises fo r the ir numerous c avalry and
the amusements o f th e chase s erve as a prelude to the con
quest o f an empire .
The T artars have few mechanics amon them except such ,
as make arms and female ornaments an dressers o f skins ,

.
Hospitality is their rand characteristic particularly towards

strangers who con fidently put themselves under their prote o
,
,
tion T hey are o f an easy cheer ful temper seldom depress
.
, ,
e d by care or m elancholy and so much deli ghted with their
(
,
own country that they conceive it impossible fOr a foreigner
,
to traverse their plains w ithout envying them in their posses ,

sion .
*
’
A s p in s C o s m or am a .
U NIV E R S A L T R A VE L L ER .
T HE C A LM U C K S .
4 T HE
. C A LM U C K S .
T hese people though c o m m o n ly c o n s id er e d as T artars are

, ,
i n reality a tribe o f the Mongols or Moguls who have them , ,
s elves been also imp r operly con founded with the T artars .
T he C almucks are extensive wanderers and to be foun d in ,

nearly the whole o f A sia north o f India and C hina ; and even ,
in the southern parts o f E urop ean R ussia to the banks o f the ,

Dnieper T hey are distinguished by peculiarity o f features
.
and m anners from the surrounding T artar tribes T heir per

, .
sonal appearance is athleti c and revolting ; their skin nearly

bla ck ; their hair Coarse and their la ng uage e x tremely harsh , .
T he men who are frequently o f iga n tic stat ure have no other
clothing than a piece o f cloth aho ut the waist The women
, ,
.
,
who are uncommonly har d y have broad high cheek bones , ,
-
,
very small eyes set at a great distance apart scarcely any
, ,
eyebrows b road flat noses and enormous ears The black
, , , .
hair o f the m arried women h angs in thick braids on each sid e

O f the face and over the shoulders the ends being fastened
'
, ,
With p ieces o f lead or tin ; the unm arried have only one b rai d
behind T heir ears are adorned with shells or large irregular
.
,
pearls C hildren o f both sexes go entirely naked till they are
.
,
twelve or fourteen ye a rs o f age T he C almuck women are .
fond o f tobacco which they smoke in short pipes ; and they

,
are renowned riders O ften outstripping their male companions ,

in the chase .
T hese people dwell in c onical tents called kh a bi th a construct ‘
, ,
ed with cane covered with a thick camel s h air felt and placed
,
’
,
on wagons fo r convenience o f re m oval witho ut takin them
, ,
down A hole in the top serves the two fold purpos e 0 chim
.
ney and window Interiorly th ese tents are commodious a nd.

, ,
supplied with many necessaries O f li fe ; fo r the C almucks are
farther advanced i n the arts o f li fe th an many o f the A siatic
erratics S everal a rts generally considered to be peculiar
.
,
to c ivilized nations are here to be met with ; and from time ,
immemorial they have possessed that o f making gunpowder .
T hey are nevertheless so averse to dwelling in towns that they ,

deem the confined air o f a room insupportable .
T h eir f a vo r i te f is horse fle s h which they o ften eat raw ;

ood -
,
and generally large pieces o f it are placed on upright sticks
near their tents to be dried by the sun On a j ourney they
,
.
,
place it under their saddles to be ready when wanted T he ,
.
li mbs o f dogs c ats rats marmots and other anim a ls are also
, , , , ,
seen suspende d about th e tents and are o ften quite bl ck V e ,
a .
a
e t a b l e s bread and fr uits constit ute no part o f their diet T h e

g , ,
.
drink o f these remarkable people is sour or fermented m are s ’
mil k which they call koum i s s and fro m which they a lso pro
,
duce brandy by di s tillation .
39 2 U NIVER S AL T R A VELL E R .
THE K AM T S C HA T D A L ES .
both sexes except th at the women have an under garment

, ,
which they c ommo nly w e ar at home consisting o f wid e ,
breeches and a waistco at s ewed to gether On holydays th e
, ,
.
,
women frequently put on a silk gown a fter the O ld Russian ,
m anner with p arty colo red kerchie fs ab out their heads

,
-
Th e .
women do all t h eir work in mitten s ; and use white and red
paint pro fusely .
T h ese people formerly lived i n h o vels excavated in th

gr ound so m e o f which are now existing though in most in
, ,
s tances t h e y h ave been exch ange d fo r t h e log huts o f the -
Russians In the south these huts are rai se d on p os ts to th e

.
,
h ei gh t of twelve or fi fteen feet T h e inland Ka m ts c h a td ales
build their villages in thick wo o d s and other na turally strong ,
places at a distance from the s e a but have summer h abi
, ,
.
t a tio n s near the mouths o f rivers T hos e w h o live on th e .
coast build their V illages very near the s h ore T o kindle fire
,
.
,
they rub a sm all round stick in a hole per forated through a
dry bo ard till it takes fire ; and instead o f tinder they us e
, ,
dried grass b e aten so ft 0 .
T he d i et o f th e se people consist s c h iefly o f fi s h p repare d in ,

various ways ; a n d they are partic ul arly fond of ca vi a m ad e r
o f the roes o f fish T he y never go on a j o urney with o ut som e

.
dry c aviar with a po und o f which a K a m ts c h atd ale can sub

,
sist fo r a great while every b irch o r alder tree supplying h im
,
with bark to eat w ith it i nstead o f b read T h ey also very ,

.
much esteem a dish whi c h they call h a tga l consisting o f fi s h

that has been laid in a pit till it be comes sour or rather putrid ;
»
and tho ug h th e smell is intolerable to all others to a K amt ,

s c h a td a l e the odor i s a n exquisite per fu me and t he article i t ,
sel f an absolute luxury T he fles h o f land and large s ea .
ani m al s they boil w ith di fferent herbs and roots : the bro th
they drink out o f la dles a n d bowls and they take o u t the m eat ,
upon b oards and eat it in their h an d s
, .
T he fat o f th e whale and walrus they also b oi l with roots

and a principal dish at all their feasts which they call s el g a ,
a ,
is made by pounding roots and berries o f di fferent kinds with ,

c aviar and mi x ing up the whole with whale or seal fa t In
,
'
fo r mer times t h eir or d inary beverage was w ater ; and when

,
they made merry they drank s uch as had mus h roo m s steeped
,
in it They now swallow spirits as freely as the R ussian s
. .
A ft er dinner however they still drink water ; and on going to

, , ,
b e d set a vesse l o f water by them with the addition o f snow

, ,
or ice to keep it cold : this is always consume d be fore th e

-
morning .
A s reindeer have become scarce in K amtschatka and ,

horses cannot easily be supported the natives train their dogs ,
to draw their sledges on which they travel with s u rprisin g ,
velocity over the snow T he do gs are peculiar to the coun .
try and can bear any degree O f cold rather than heat They
,
.
are fe d on fish raw dressed dried fresh frozen o r putri d

, , , , , , ,
a s suits the convenience O f t heir owners S ix o f th e m cge n .
U NIVE R S A L T R A VELLER . 393
AR A B I A .
e r a lly form
a team and they w ill draw six or seven hun a red
weight a t the rate o f eight or ten miles an hel m E ach d o g
,
has a p articul ar name which is o f great use i n d r l v mg them
.
, ,
as they are m anaged by the voice and the j ingl i ng o f r m gs or

o
s hells fastened to a s tick neither reins nor wh i p be

,
i ng used
by the driver .
*
6 . A RABI A .
T he modern inhabitants o f A rabia are divided into two

classes ; the genuine and the adulterated A rabs T he first .
c lass are the d o u in s o f the desert w h o h a v e preserved in ,

‘
the greatest pur ty the character and m anners o f their an o es

,
tors A ttached to a pastoral li fe and acknowledging no s u
.
,
perior but the chie f o f their tribe they pi tch their ten t s where ,
c aprice or necessity dictates and have m aintaine d in the de , ,
se rt that freedom and independence which no subj ect can

,
e nj oy T heir chie f occupation is the breeding o f sheep and
.
camels which are their only treasures T hey disdain hus

,
.
b andry as an employment by which they would be degraded ,
and look upon those who inhabit cities as having for feited , ,
by their intercourse with strangers and their indolent m anner ,

o f li fe all title to the dignified appellation o f a descendant o f
,
“
Ishmael Robbers by pro fession their hands are against
.
,
”
every man 3 but right not necessity is the plea by which the
, ,
Bedouins stop and pillage the traveller in the desert For .
as Ishmael received no share o f his father s patrimony but ’

,
was driven into the wilderness to shi ft fo r himsel f they con ,
sider thems elves at liberty to regain by force that inherit , ,
ance o f which he was so u njustly deprived Their robberies . .
however are not attended w ith murder or ill treatment unless

, ,
opposition is m ade to wh at they deem a law ful and reason
able demand “ U ndress thysel f
.
” “
cries the robber ; thy ,
aunt (my wi fe ) is without a garment submission ens ures
sa fety ; but resistance must be atoned fo r by the blood o f the
o ff ender .
T he li fe o f the Bedouins is a li fe o f danger and distress .
Compe lled to wander in search o f a hard earned subsistence -
,
and knowing the wants and inconveniences o f these desolate
solitudes their hearts are ever open to the c alls o f hum anity
, .
T he su fferings and mis fortunes o f the stranger entitle him to

the i r compassion and he w h o confides in their honor is sure
o f their hospitality and protection T hey inhabit a solitary .
desert whic h a ffords them fe w o f the com forts and none o f

, ,
the luxur i es o f li fe Their poverty however is voluntary ;
.
, ,
th ey pre fer liberty to wealth and pastoral simplici ty to a li fe ,
o f labor and constraint I f at any time by pillage or exch a n ge
.
, , ,
Vie w of th e. C o s tum es a nd P ecu iar ties l i o f all N ti

a ons .
'
39 4 U NIVER S A L T R A V E LLER .
A R A B IA
they m ay appropriate to th emselves the fruits o f industry y et ,
they can be o f little advantage to them who know not thei r
value A rticl e s o f fo o d and trappi ngs fo r their horses ar e t h e
.
o nly riches they require ; so th at the most precious c o m m o d i

ti e s o f a plu n dered caravan are o ften scatt e red in the desert ,
as useless and insignificant T he Bedouins are early train e d .
to the exercise o f arm s and horsemanship which the contin ,

ual j arrings o f the independent tribes render necessary fo r
their protection and de fence T he care o f the flocks is aban ~ .
d o n e d to the women o f the trib e while the youth are ever on ,

horseb ack and in the field practising the u s e o f the h o w th e , ,
j avelin and the swor d It was a usual s ayi n g amongst them

,
.
,
that God had bestowed upon the A rabs turbans instead o f
diadems swords inste a d o f i n tr en c h m e n tsf ten ts instead o f
,
houses and poem s instead o f written laws
,
.
T he inhabitants o f t h e cities are m ore in dolent and e ffe m i

nate and may be said to have lost by their intermixture with
, ,
other nations somewhat o f their national character and m an
,
ners T hey are chiefly employed in merch andise and in c ul
.
,
t iv a ti n g t h e land and are kept in constant poverty by the ex

orbitant taxes levied to su p p o rt the pomp h n d majesty o f a
,
despotic monarchy T hey have acquired a spirit o f duplicity
.
,
w hich is observable in all their intercourse with stranger s ;
and they take every opportunity o f c heating the C hristians ,
and then drawing them into expense and trouble ; and these
e ffeminate citizens by their living un d er an arbitrary govern
,
ment seem to h ave lost in a great m easure that generosity
, , ,
and probity fo r which their brethren in the desert are so high
ly distinguishe d .
T h e Ar a b 7s n ot but he is rather tall well formed

'
r o bu s t, , ,
and active e less o f d anger and i n sensible to fatigue : h is
,
f a r ,
min is quick and his character marked by the extremes o f
d ,
credulity and enth u siasm His head is oval his brow high .
,
and arched his nose aquiline and his ey es are large His
, ,
.
dark complexion is rendere d still deeper by exposure to the

s u n but he ha s an un c o mmonly gen tle look
,
T he women are .
taller in proportion t h an th e men and have a d ignified deport ,

m ent ; but their elegant forms are degraded by their rag ed
clothing and squalid looks ; and the regularity o f their e a
tures loses its attraction by the influence o f their C opper tint .
T o be admired they must be seen at a distance and the b e

, ,
holder must confine himsel f to general ap p earance .
T h e Ar a bs , i n th ei r are dignified and r e

ex ter i or d em ea n or ,
served seldom provoked to laughter S paring o f words they
,
.
,
are o ffended at a repeti tion o f questions ; their speech is S low ,
wei ghty and articulate ; their apprehension quick with a
spiri t o f independence appearing in the countenance o f the
,
lowest o f them T heir V irtues and their vices are in a degree

.
, ,
p e culiar to th emselves T hey are the fi r m e s t friend

. s an d th e ,
ARA B I A .
c able and unrelenting A n a ffront once received is laid up .

, ,
an d cherished in his breast ; and no circumstance n o r time
can e fface it from his mind until he h as obtained full repara ,
tion T he A rab has no idea o f forgiveness ; his whole soul

.
seems absorbed in the inj ury ; and the most abj ect submission
cannot s creen the culprit from his rage A n insulting expres .
can o n ly be wiped away by the blood o f th e o ffender ;

an d a murder must be expiated by the slaughter o f a family .
T he most irritable and implacable a r e the m artial Bedouins

“
,
who are jealous in honor sudden and quick in quarrel ”
, .
A n indecent action or a contemptuous word will raise him to

, ,
m adness ; and such is his v indictive spirit that he will p a ,
tie n tly wait months and years fo r an O pportunity o f revenge .
Families and sometimes tribes are thu s involved in endless

, ,
hostilities by an inadvertent expression or the carelessness o f
, ,
one o f its members ; and the individuals o f either lead a li fe o f
incessant malice and suspicion No reconciliation can tak e .
place until the reproach has been washed out with blood .
E very new o ff ence is add ed to the bloody debt and h al f a cen

tury will someti mes elapse be fore the account o f ve n geance
,
is finally settled .
f
T h e d r es s o suitable to the general fashion
th e Ar a bi a n s i s
o f the east except th at they h ave more variety than the neigh
,
boring nations A rabians o f distinction in Yemen have wi de
.
-
, ,
drawers o f cotton cloth over which they wear a shirt ; and a ,

vest with strait sleeves is c overed with a flowing gown A ,
.
girdle o f embroidery encircles the loins at which is suspended ,
a kind o f crooked cutlass called a j a m bea T hey wear by .

,
way o f ornament a piece o f fine l i nen cloth hanging over
,
their shoulders T hey use no stockings and have only a sort

.
,
o f h al f boots or slippers upon their feet
-
T heir head dress .
-
consists o f from 1 0 to 1 5 bonnets o f linen or cotton the out ,

most richly embroidered with gold round which is wrapped a ,
sort o f muslin with silk or golden fringes fl owing loose upon
,
the shoulders T his cumbersome cove ring is to sec u re their
.
heads from what is called the stroke o f the sun ; and in those
hot countries laborers w ill strip themselves naked and place
, ,
their clothes up o n their head S ome have drawers and a .
S hirt but the greatest number have only a piece o f linen about
,
the loins a large girdle with the j a m b ea and a piece o f cloth
, ,
about the shoulders Lar e drawers a flowing shirt and a .
, ,
veil is the general dress 0 the fema les T heir faces are dis
,
.
figured with b lack spots by way o f bea u ty impressed into , ,

the skin T heir eyebrows are artificially blackened ; their
.
feet and hands stained brown and their nails red T hey wear ,
.
a gr eat pro fusion o f rings with bracelets and necklaces o f ,

false pearls T he subj ects o f the Ima m o f S ana shave their
.
h eads ; but in the other districts the hair is preserved and

kn otted up behind in a handkerchie f T heir mustaches are .
in geh er a l kept very short but all wear the beard its na t ural
, ,
UN IVER S AL T R A VE LL E R .
397
D R ES S 01E B.
'
f '
l en gth Con for ma ble with their d ress is th eir manner o f s it

.
-
t ing T hey squat t h e mse lves u pon the ground with th e leg s
.
,
c ros s e d u n der the body a p o sture very c o nvenient and r e ,

freshing to thos e who wear lo o se garme nts In the p resen ce .
o f a superior an A rab S its with his knees close together and

, ,
t h e weig h t o f his body res ting upon t h e h e els In th is posture .
t hey u s ua lly p l a ce th e mselves a t th e t able as it occupies ,
l ea s t room ; but it is very u n ea s y to tho s e wh o are not a cc u s

t o m e d to i t Inste ad o f chairs which are u nknown in the
~
.
,
e ast the ro om s o f the higher classes are laid round wi h c
,
t u s h
i ons a nd their floors with rich c arpets
,
.
T h e A r a bs and t em p er at e
a r e in g en er a l a bs t emi o us .
m a] f ood is thou ght very unwholesome in hot climates and

except among the B e do uins in th e desert very little is used in ,
A ra bia T he ir principal foo d consists o f rice pulse and milk ;
.
, ,
the common people live chiefly upon d ur r a m ade into cakes , ,
with c a mel s milk or butter T heir m anner o f eating h o w e v
’
,
.
,
e r is most repulsive to E uropea n s

,
T hey have neithe r knives .
n o r forks but m ake a dexterou s use o f their fingers and eat

, ,
w ith amazing quickness N o soone r is a dish s et upon the ta .
ble than all hands are thrust into it a n d it i s instantly emptied

, ,
'
o f its contents A nother immediately supplies its place whic h

.
,
is as quickly despatched ; and the service is repeated until
t h e whole company are satisfie d Be fore they sit down to ta .
“
ble they repeat a sh o rt prayer in the name o f the most mer
, ,
”
c i fu l G o d ; a nd every one when done r is e s without waiting , ,
“ ”
fo r the rest and p ro n ounce s ,
G o d be praised T he ir favor ,
.
ite drink is ki sch er which is pr ep ared from the husks o f co ff ee

,
beans slightly roasted and pounded It tast es like tea and is
,
.
,
thought very re fre shing T hough the u se o f intoxica ti ng liq h o r s .
is prohibite d in the Koran yet s o me o f them indul ge in pri ,

vate but never appear drunk i n c om pany or in the streets
, ,
.
T he rich substitute tobacc o in their place smoking it mixe d ,

with a kind o f odori ferous wood which communicates to it a ,
very agreeable taste ; the lower people smo ke h a s ch ech the ,
dried leaves o f a sort o f hemp which exalts their courage an d , ,
rai s s the ir s pirits to a s ta te o f intoxication
e
.
T h ei r ch i ef p la c es
f are th e public co ffee houses .
o a mus em ent -
,
which are v ery muc h frequente d T here they are served with .
pipes and c o ffee and entertained with music son and ora
, ,
tions T he orators are generally poo r sch ol a rs w o frequen t
.
,
these places to earn a sc anty subsistence T hey rec ite tales .
and fables o f their own invention or repeat p assages from ,

s ome favorite authors A s a ll ame s o f chance are fo rbidde n .
by the Koran their principal s e e n ta ry amusements are chess

,
a n d draughts o f which they are so fond that they will some
, ,
times sit a whole day without interruptio n .
S tr a nger s to th e lux ur i es o f th e t a bl e, th e Ar abi ans are

34
398 U NI V E R S A L T RAVELLE R .
A R A B IA .
e a llyu n acquainted with the com forts o f a good h a bi ta t ion

Tqpeir buildings display no exterior mag nificence nor thei r
.
,
a partments splendor or elega n ce T he common people are .
m iserably lodged Houses made o f mud thatched with grass

.
, ,
without windows and with a str aw mat fo r the door form
, ,
m any o f the s treets in the chie f cities o f A rabia T he houses .
o f the r ich however are sometimes built o f stone or burnt

, ,
brick with terrace roo fs ; bu t fe w o f them h ave gl as s windows
,
, .
A s it is considered very un p olite to salute a w o m a n in A rabia ,

the women generally occupy s eparate ap a rtments which are -
,
in the back part o f the house where strangers are never in ,
tr o du c e d T hose who have no such apartments are care ful
.
,
whe n they carr y a strang er to the house to enter first and
“ ”
cry t a r i ck r etire upon which the women instantly di s ap
, ,
, ,
pear and are invisible to their best friends
,
.
Th e P a tr i a r ch a l f or m h as prevailed among o f G ov er n m en t
rab s rom
t h e iw a n d e r in g A f remotest antiquity T he a u th e .
th o r ity o fa is at
S c h ie k th a ather over his family whose of f ,
obe ience is o nded upon natural a ection and th e be h evo

d f u ff ,
lence th e ruler
of ll the
A however who belong to the
. S c h ie k s ,
s ame tribe enter into an a sociation
,
their common de fence s fo r
and s e c urity T hey acknowledge a common ch i ef who may
.
,
guide and direct them in thei r predatory war fare ; and in
m aintaining the honor a n d independe n ce o f their tribe against
the attack o f their neighbors T his chie f is dignified with the .
title S c h ie k o f S c h ie k s and is el e cted from a certain family ,

in which this d ignity is hereditary by the in ferior S c h ie ks , ,
without any r egard to seniority lineal succession or any other , ,
consideration except superiority o f abilities He considers

,
.
himsel f as absolute lord o f his whole territories a nd a o ,
c o r din gly e xacts the same duties upon merchandise pas ing
s
through h is dominions as are levi ed by other princes He i s .
obliged to treat the in ferior S c h ie k s as associates rather than

subj ects and to share with them the sovereign authority I f .
dissatis fied with his government they depo se him or depart , ,

with their flocks and leave him at the mercy o f a r iv a l
, ,
or more power ful tribe The lower classes are bound to .
their chie f by the sam e tenure ; they can quit his ser vice
s
a t pleasure ; their steps are unconfined the desert is open , ,
a n d the spirit o f liberty which animates the whole nation , ,

renders them incapable o f continued subj ection Thus the .
Bedouin nursed in independence and master o f his acti o ns

, , ,
soon acquires a high sense o f his own impor tance T hi s .
renders him proud easily provoked and impatie n t o f control, ,

.
Ignorant o f submission h e cannot brook the language o f ,

authority and his services are the e ffects o f inclination rather
,
than o f constraint .
T h e o n ly s a f e wa y o t r a velli n g in A rabia as in other coun

,
t ri es of A sia a nd A ri ca , i s in caravans A cara van IS a
.
400 .
UN WE R S A L T R A VELL ER .
P E R SIA .
a dar k olive to a slight tinge o f yellow T hey are o f a m id .
dl in g stature ro b ust and active ; brave hospitabl e patient in

, , , ,
adver s ity a ff able to strangers and highly p olished in their
, ,
m anners ; bu t they pos s ess strong passion s and are c a pabl e ,
o f acts o f great cru elt y when under the influence o f a n ger .
A ctivity and indolence a r e singularly c o mb ined in the Persia n

character Passionately fond o f s moking these people will
.
,
in d u lge in it from morning to night ; and in the abs e n ce o f pow
e r ful indu cement s to a ction they seem to resign themselve s
,
to idleness ; sitting in on e pos tur e upon their heels with thei r ,
legs~bent under them fo r hour s together and fireq u en tly sleep
, ,
in g . When however they a r e roused from this lethargic state
, ,
by urge n t neces sity they will m o unt thei r horses and ride d ay
,
and night witho u t intermis s ion T hey are excellent e q ue s tm
,
.
a n s being tau ght t o ride from their in fanc n d hunting an d

, y ; a
h awking are t h eir favori te amuseme n ts .
The Persian d r es s consists fo r the men o f a shirt o f silk , , ,

o r calico str iped with blue which is seldom changed til l
, ,
w orn out ; a vest fitting tight t o the body a s far a s the hips ,
whence it descends like a pettico a t a s low as the a ncles ‘
u nder this they h ave dra w ers woollen st ocking s and boots ; , ,
o r a pa i r o f very wid e trousers o f red silk or blue co tton ; ,

a n d over all a long rob e rea ching nearly to the feet
, , The .
latter is s ometimes trimmed with fu r a n d s o metimes m ade o f ,
g old cloth or brocade

,
richly o rnamented with gold la c e
, By .
w ay o f sash a piece o f chints or flowered muslin about ei ght

, , ,
yard s long is worn around the body and in the folds Wt h
, , ,
s erv e fo r pockets are carried a kni fe a pu rse p e ns and in k T h e
, , , .
dagger is als o dep o s ite d in this s a sh ornamented accordin g ,

to the ability o f the possessor a n d no Persian considers him
s el f dres sed without a sword T he court dres s is distingu ishe d .
h o m the ordinary cos t ume b y gr een sli p pers with high heel s
‘
,
a n d red clot h s tockings T he dres s o f the commonalty co n
.
s ists generally o f t w o or three light garments reaching o nly to

th e knee In m any p art s o f the c o untry they wear a sheep s ’
.
,
s kin with the wool inwards
,
Persians o f all degrees keep .
their heads remarkably warm wearing e v e n i n summer ,

a
,
black fi n caps faced with lamb s skin s o fashioned as to ris e
' ’
,
into four corners at th e t o p which is fr eque ntly ten or twelv e ,
i nches high T he king and his sons are distinguished by

.
h aving a sh awl wrapped round this b lack cap a m ark o f —

h onor which is als o e xte nded to some o f the nob ility a n d ,
mi nis ters o f state .
T he Persi an s shave th e wh o l e o f the head except a tu ft o f ,

h air which they leave on th e cro w n and a lo o k behind each ,
e ar . But they su ffer their beards to grow to their fil l] extent ;

a n d ge nerally dye them quite black by an unpleasan t a n d ,
te dious operation which must be repeated once a fortnight .
T he costume o f the f em a les in the summer season consists ,
of a si lk or m us l in un d er garm en t, a p ai r o f loo s e v e l vet tr on

-
»
NI VER S A L T RAVELLER
'
U . 401
H O U S E S— FOOD .
s ers and a vest T he hea d i s covered with a large black tur

,
.
ban over which a cash mere shawl is grace fully thrown to

, ,
answer the purpose o f a veil In cold weather a close bo di ed .
,
-
velvet robe reaching to the kn ees fa stened in front w ith large

, ,
old buttons and sometime s orna m en te d with j ewels is worn
,
g , ,
over the vest Necklaces are i n general use w ith s mall gol d
sce nt boxes appended to them lo w in the bos o m A mong
.
-
.
o ther ornaments used by the l a dies is a gold pl a te with an , ,

A rabic prayer engrave n u p on it and suspend e d on the right ,
cheek just below the ear A s thick and dark e yebro ws are
,
.
esteemed essential to beauty in Persia the ladies dye the m ,

black if they a re not s o natu rally T hey also rub their feet .
a n d hands with pomatum o f an orange tint and injure their

nat ural co mple x ions with paint and varnishes T hey are ex .
cee di ngly neat in their garments and houses ; indeed the fr e

quent ablutio ns enj oined by their religio n and rendered a gr ee ,
able by the heat o f the ir clim ate preven ts the m fro m bein g ,
otherwise than cleanly .
T he Persi an ho us es which are lo w and flat roo fed are built

,
-
,
o f mud or unburned bricks and stand each in a court e u com , ,
passed by a high wall T hey have no wi ndows towards the .
l street ; a n d the windo w s whic h front the court are entirely

O pen on that side but have a large curtain to b e let down when
,
not in use T he palaces o f the nobility are generally divided

.
into several courts the centre o f whic h is laid out in par

,
t erres m o s t c ommonl y ornamented with fountains

,
.
T he Persians seldom h ave fires in their apartments ; but in

co ld weather put on an additional robe or pelisse T hey do ,
.
not recline on cus hions as do the Turks nor sit like them , , ,
cro ss legged ; but they sit on their heels with their legs ben t
-
,
u n der the m li ke a c a m el on a thick fel t a carpe t or a m at I n , , , .
this posture u neasy in the extreme to those who are not ac

,
customed to it they will sit fo r hours together
,
.
T he s e people admit but little variety in their f ood they ris e

with the sun and having taken a cup o f co ffee some fruit or
, , ,
other light re freshment they enter on the busines s o f the day, ,
s moke or converse till ten o r eleven o clock when they tak e
’
a sli ht repast o f sweetmeats fr uits and dishes composed

,
mostg
, ,
y o f milk T hey then retire to the harem till ab o ut three
.
when they renew their business or smoking In the evening .
they t ake their princ ipal meal ; which consists o f animal fo o

mi x ed with rice and boiled down to rags so a s to render
, ,
knives and forks unnec es sary With the s ame hand that h a s .
j ust torn a fowl or lamb to pieces or grasped an omelet s wim ,

m i ng i n 0 11 a melon is scooped out and as a mark o f es 8
, , ,
c 1 al favor presented by a superior to his guest The s o r a
, .
,
or tablecloth is s pread upon the floor and the company
, ,
seated as usual upon their heels aroun it bend themselve s ,
d o w n and 8 0 01) the victu als into their mouths with their fin
,
343
402 U N IV E R S AL TR AV E L L ER .
P E R S IA .
ger s and the thu m b o f th e right hand When they have eate n .
enough (and their m e als are very s o on over ) they sit up r i ht

with the right hand pl a ced in a certain position over the e ft
,
arm till water is brought in and e very one washes his hand
, ,
a n d his mout h T he s o fra consists o f a fine chints cloth ;
.
but fro m a s u pe rst itious noti on that changing it brings ill luck .
,
it is generally covered with the fragments o f former meals ,
and emits a scent very un gr ate ful to the ol factory powers o f
E nglish m en w h o consider a cle an t able cloth among th e
,
n eces sary com for ts o f li fe fi
‘
all th e h a bi ts o f a Persian the mo s t comm o n is that o f

Of ,
s moking Whethe r he is with his women or in the company
.
o f h i s friends whether h e is going abroa d or to court he i s

, ,
never without his p ip e T he Persian pipe which is called ka l .
,
Ii oun is totally di fferent from ours It is shaped like a bottl e .
,
term i nated by the neck at the t0p o f which is a bowl fo r r e ,
c eiv in g the tobacco T he tube is attached to the bottom o f thi s
.
b owl and frequ ently makes several windings in the bottle

'
.
,
T he latter w h ich is o f blown glass has a curious appearance
, ,
to a stranger ; it is ornamented in the inside with the r e p r e
s e n ta ti o n o f trees flowers & c A handsome k all io u n costs
, ,
.
,
we are told nearly fi fty guineas T o use this pipe the bottle .
is filled with water and the tobacco lighted Th e smoke

,
.
, ,
a fter thus passi n g through the bottle arrives at the mouth coo l , ,
and disengaged from the coarse vapors .
T he women o f Persia like those o f all M a h o m e d an countrie s , ,

r eceive no moral education whatever When they have learn .
ed reading writing and embroidery their educatio n is fi n is h ~

, , ,
ed ; and those t h ings they a r e taught either by females hired
fo r the purp ose or at the schools which they frequent till they
, ,
h ave attained such an age as not to be permitt ed to go abroad
without a veil Neither dancin g music nor other accomp lish
.
, ,
m ent s n o r reading nor study ever develop or heigh ten their

, , ,
natural graces or enrich their minds Livi ng shut up in a
,
.
h a r em visi ting and being visited by none but females society

, ,
never form s their m anners ; the power o f human respect o p

p oses no barrier to their passions to the vices o f their hearts , ,
an d to the extravagances o f their dispositions : the intercours e
with women‘ perverts rather than purifies their morals T he .
mother exc usively s uperintends the education o f her d au gh

ter and fa t fi fully transmit s to her de fects which were not cor
,
.
,
r e c te d wh n she was her s el f yb u n g : virt ue and modesty are
e
terms w l ch she never utters in her hearing fo r they are term s

“
.
,
as u n m a ming to the one as to the other S h e familiarizes h er
; .
with t u t one idea— that she is one day to belong to an ab s o

l ute master whose love she must strive to acquire not by p r a c
, ,
ti v
n g the virtues o f her sex and condition but by the art s o f ,
fi n e d coquetry which though they may e x cite passion ar e
'
, , ,
’
Asp in s Co s moram a .
4 04 U NIVER S A L TRAV E LLER .
P E RS I A .
a cup o f very strong co ffee without sugar In the second .

,
another ka lli ou n 1 s given with s w eet co ffee so called becaus e ,

it is composed o rose water and sugar A fresh ka llz ow
f
un .
s weetmeats and sherbet make up the third act , .
T hese sweetmeats are generally brought on silver plated ,

o r Japanned trays adorned with painted flowers or other
,
ornaments : they usually consist o f sugar almonds and p is ~ -
t a c h i o nuts or sma ll orange fl o w er cakes

,
T he P ersian s are-
.
p assionately fond o f sweetmeats and excel 1 n the art o f mak ,

i n g them .
T hey are also fond o f the ch a s e it is an e x e r c 1 s e to which

they are addi cted from their youth and in which they excel ,
.
A ll the people o f distinction keep falcons sparrow hawks and ,

-
other birds o f p rey fo r sport i ng In C h a r din s time the hunt

,
.
’
ing establishment o f the sovereign contained eight hundred

o f those birds U pon the whole the Persians make but little
.
,
use o f dogs in hunting considering them as the most impu l e
,
o f animals ; hence they employ birds in their stead .
T hey have brought their hawks to a great degree o f d c c il

ity particularly one clas s wh ich they call the ch m kh and
, ,
which 1 s trained to catch antelop es It 1 s hunted with i n t h i s .
m anner — When a herd o f deer 1 s dis covered one is s ep a1 a ted

fro mthe rest by the dogs and the bird being let loose almost
,
, , ,
immediately pounces upon it flapping its wings over the eyes ,

o f the antelope T he animal endeavors to 1 id itsel f o f the
.
c h a r kh by beating its head against the ground ; b u t as the

,
bird is perched on the upper part o f the head this attempt is ,
o f no avail A s the antelope stops th e instant the ch a r kh

.
pounces on it, the dogs soon come up to sec u re their prey

O
.
One o f these b 1 r d s will kill two sometimes three antelopes m a ,

day T his manner o f catching deer a ffords much amusement
. .
T he wild ass is someti mes hunted though rarely on account , ,

o f its very great speed Whenever it i s horses are statione d
.
,
in places where it is most likely to run and by conti n ually
changing horses the hunter sometimes overt akes this s u r p r i
,
singly fleet animal .
T he P ersians delight in keeping fighting rams A mor e .
bloody or cruel conflict can sc arcely be witnessed than two ,
o f these fu 1 1 c us animals engagi n g each other On these 0 0 .
casions the passions o f the P ersians are worked up to th e

,
highest pitch ; and it o ften happens that a quarrel among th e
men succeeds a battle between the beasts .
T he h o r s e r a ces o f the P ersians are very di fferent from ours . .
T he horses start at the distance o f perhaps fi fteen miles and ,

pursue a direct course to the post N 0 care is taken to levei .
’
the ground ; and as it o ften happens that more than twenty

horses start together there are frequent accidents P urses o f
,
.
gold are given to the fi 1 st second and third horses T hey , ,

.
take great p ains in training their horses which they do fo r a ,

.
much lo nger time than 1 s practised l n E urope .
A s to the ma nn er o f tr a velling l n the east it is widely di ff e r ,

’
U N IVE R S AL T RA V EL L ER . 4 05
TR AV E LLIN G— C O U RT SH I P .
e nt from our own In Persia it is dangerous to travel even a

.
,
small distance with out attendants or an escort In lo n ge r ,
.
j ourneys it is common to j oin a company o f travellers wh o ar e

going to the same place S uch a company is called a caravan
. .
T h e beasts o f burden are camels horses and mules T he , ,

.
caravan is comm anded by a chie f w h o undertakes to fi1 r 11i s h ,

'
s ervants horses and other beasts o f bur den d uring the j ourney
,
, ,
at such a rate as m ay be agree d on .
T he caravan m arches in the closest order pos sible When .
ther e are n o c a r a va ns a r i es in the country through which it is

travelling as soon as it reaches its res ting place th e chi e f
, ,
oints out to each individual the spot where he is to deposite
pis baggage and merchandise that there may be no con fusion ,
.
T he baggage form s a semicircle the centre o f which is o c cu ,

pied by the provisions and beds T his place as well as th e .
,
encampment o f each traveller is encompassed with a hair ,
rope T he beasts o f burden are all stationed facing their r e
.
s p ec tiv e loads and are merely tied by hair ropes .

,
T he chie f is stirring with his people b e fore light to s up e rin ,
tend the loading o f the goods so that the caravan may sta rt ,
with the dawn that is between three and four in the morning
, , .
A bell gives the signal fo r departure .
T he mode o f m a tr im on i a l cou r ts h ip s in Persia does not allo w

the eyes o f the parties to direct their choice till they are m u ,
tu ally pledged to each other T he proposal is generally.
m ade by the relations o f the youth through an elderly female , ,

and i f accepted by the relations of the lady the heads o f th e ,
families meet and the necessary contracts are drawn up
, On .
the morning o f the day fixed fo r the weddi ng the lover sends ,
a train o f mules laden with the promised gi fts fo r his bride to ,
the house o f her parents ; the whole being att ended b y n um er
ous servants and preceded by music and drums Besides
, .
the presents fo r the lady the procession carries all s orts o f

,
cost ly viands on large silver trays ready prepared to be im ,
mediately spread be fore the inmates o f the house T he whol e .
o f the d ay is spent in feasting and j ollity ; towards evening

, ,
the damsel makes her appearance enveloped in a long veil o f ,
scarlet or crimson silk and being placed on a horse or mule
splendidly c ap a r is o n e is conducted to the habitation o f her
a fii a n ce d husband by all her relations m arching in regular
,
order to the sound o f the s ame clamorous band which had
escorted the presents When alighted at the bridegroom s
.
’
door the lady is led to her future apartments within the house
, ,
accompanied by her female relations and waiting maids .
F e a s t mg and rej oi c ing now commenc e and a supper feast

,
concludes the entertainment .
*
T h e P ersians i n t er th ei r d ea d with th e same ceremo ni es

W t h are practised by other M a h o m e d a n nations Mournin g .
las t s fort days Garments o f a bro w n or p ale c olor ar e

y .
wo rn d ur m g that season .
N ew Edi burgh E cycl op edia n n .

C H I NA .
8 . CHIN A .
Th e n a tu r a l color o is th at intermediate hue

f th e Ch i n es e,
b etween a fair and dark complexion called a b r u n ett e ; a n d ,
t hose who are exposed to the influe n ce o f the climate esp e ,
c i ally the women who l abor in the fields h ave a deeper color
,
, ,
and coarser features T here is s aid to be scarcely any appa
.
r ent physical di fference betwixt the C hinese and the T artars ,

except that the former are rather taller in sta ture and more ,
s lender in form than the latter who are in general short thick , , ,
and robust T he T artar is also more active hardy and ab le
.
, ,
to endure fatigue possessed o f greater firmness o f character
, ,
and displaying greater fortitude under pain In the c o u n te .
nance o f both the small eye elliptical at the end nearest to

, ,
the nose is a predominant feature ; and both also have high
, , ,
cheek bones and pointed chins which with the mode o f
, , ,
s h aving their hair gives to the head the appearance o f an
,
i nverted cone T hey have s m a ll flat noses and extremely
.
,
l arge ears .
T heir figure is generally large and square ; and nothing is

c onceived more becoming and reputable than a c o r p ulen t h ab it ,
o f body A mong the women there are fe w that can be called
.
,
b eauties ; and the univers al features are a short rounded nose ,
g e n er a lly a little flattened lips rather thick a small and

,
dark ,
bro w n eye with j et black hair T hey are by no mean s a
,
.
c lea n ly people either in their person or dress

,
They seldom .
change their under garments fo r the purpose o f washing them ;

n ever employ the ba th either cold or warm make no use o f
,
s oap and scarcely ever wash their bodies ; and even the inte
,
r ior wrappers o f the ladies feet are allowed to remain as long
’
a s they will hold together T hey carry no pocket h an d ke r .
chie fs T hey sleep at night huddled up under a coverlet

.
,
nearly in the s ame clothes which they wear throu gh the day
a circumstance which together with their general fi lth in e s s is
, .
o ft en productive o f vermin .
I n th ei r n a tu r a l the Chinese are a mild c h eer fii l

d i sp os i t i on , ,
contented and obliging people In their exterior deportment
,
.
,
they are un commonly decent and in their manners extremely ,
prepossessing T hey seldom use abusive lan guage ; and if at
.
any time they quarrel it seldom proceeds farther than the tear
,
ing o f each other s clothes or the plucking out o f each other s
’
,
’
hair T hey are the most timid people on earth entirely de

.
,
void o f personal courage and presence o f mind in cases o f
danger an d capable o f being terrified almo t into convulsions
,
b y the drawing o f swords or th e presenti g o f a pistol ,

In .
point o f m or a l character they are extremely debased In ,

.
their conversation they m ani fest great apparent s im p licny

.
,
a n d O p enne s s y e t t h es e ar e att en de d with a degr ee o f ar t an d
408 U NIVE R S AL T RAVELLER .
d en, and are at times employed in dragging the plough or the

harrow which their lazy helpmate holds wi th on e hand while
, ,
he casts the seed into the ground with the other E ven in .
their state o f domestic improvement they possess no privileges , .
or indul gences and are not permitted to sit a t the s ame table
, ,
or in tlle same apartment with their husbands The wives o f
''
.
tradesmen and mechanics generally employ themselves in

weaving and embroidering silks or in painting upon their ,
gauze the figures o f i nsects birds and flowers B ut in the, ,
.
,
higher ranks it is accounted a degrading o ffice to handle the
,
.
needle or th e pencil ; and the amount o f their education con

sists in a little music and dancing U tterly unqualified th ere .
,
fore ; to pursue any mental or improving occupation they em ,
ploy much o f their time in listening to j ugglers or fortune
t ellers and generally have recourse to the tobacco —pipe as the
,
chie f expedient fo r beguiling their tedious hours T he most .
rem arkable circumstance respecting the women o f C hina is ,

the custo m o f compres sing their feet from their in fancy push ,
ing forward the heel till it be entirely obliterated a n d confining ,
the toes with bandages beneath the sole till they actually grow ,
into the foot o f which they become as it were a part T he

, , ,
.
large toe is le ft free and preserves its natural size but still
,
the foot makes scarcely any addition to its growth except a ,
kind o f swelling above the instep near to the ankle bone and
the whole is generally so very di m inutive as to enter into a ,
shoe o f four inches in length and an inch and a hal f in ,
breadth T his practice prevails among all cl asses in China ;
.
a n d the smallnes s o f the foot is reckone d the most essential

point in female beau t y without which indee d they would be
, , ,
look e d upon as utterly despicable T he origin o f this strange .
an d unnatural custom is wholly unknown and is conj ectu red

to have been only adopted during the lapse o f a fe w centuries ,
a s it is not noticed in the reports o f the earliest travellers into
C hina .It has been attributed to the j ealousy o f the men as ,
a method o f keeping the fem ales more at home and is con
c e iv e d to have been a ft erwards continued by the ladies them
s elves as a m ark o f superior station .
,
T h e q u a li ty a n d co lor o f is fixed by law

th e Ch i n es e d r es s , ,
a ccording to the rank and situation in li fe o f the wearer The .
royal family alone are allowed to wear yellow : on days o f

ceremony certai n mandarins are permitted to appear in red
,
s atin but at other times black blue or violet are the colors
, , ,
prescribed fo r them T he c ommon people are allowed to
.
wear only blue or black cotton White is the distinguishing .
c olor fo r m o ur n in ; which a son has no right to wear whilst

cr
his father and moth er are living ; but he can wear no other fo r
three years a fter their death ; and ever a fter his clothes must
b e o f one color T he men s c aps are shaped like bells ; a n d
’
.
the higher classes ornament them with j ewels T he rest o f .
th e a ttire con s ists o f a shirt under which a si lk net i s worn to

, ,
U N IVER S AL T RAVELLER :
C OS T U M E— M OD E OF LI VI NG .
prevent its adhesion to the skin ; over the s h irt is a vest with ,
s leeves very wide toward s the shoulders but narrowing as they ,
a pproach the waist where they terminate in a horseshoe and
, ,
cover the hands leavi ng only the ends o f the fingers vi s i e
From a large silk en sash which is worn about the wais yis
, .
,
suspende d a sheath with a kind o f kni fe and two small ,
sticks which serve as forks at meal ti me U nder the vest the
,
-
.
,
Chinese wear loose dra wers or trousers suited to the sea , ,
son ; in summer they are made o f linen ; in winter o f s atin , ,
lined wi th fur Over all they wear a kind o f surtou t with
.
,
w ide sleeves In warm weather they go with their necks
.
bare ; but in wi nter they h ave a coll ar j oined to the vest o f

, ,
si lk s able or fo x skin Clumsy boots o f satin silk or cotto n
, ,
.
, , ,
are universally worn abroad ; but at home they are exchanged

fo r slippers .
T h e female costu me fo r the higher orders consists o f a si lk, ,

waistcoat and drawers which in winter time are lined with fur ; ,
over these is a long robe o f s atin very close at top and , ,
grace fully gathered around the wais t by a s ash T he several .
parts o f the dres s are o f di ff erent colors but a c hange o f ,

fashion is unknown T he head dress consists in an arrange
.
ment o f the curls which are interspersed with small tu fts o f

,
flowers or gold and s ilver ornaments Young ladies als o
wear a kind o f bonnet covered with stu ff or silk and adorned
.
, ,
with pearls diamonds and other costly decorations
, , .
Th e mo d e o f in C hina is mise
l i vi ng a mo ng th e lo w er or d er s
rable in the e x treme T wo or three j ars a fe w basins o f .
,
coars e earthen ware a large iron pot a frying pan and a , , ,
‘
portable stove are the chie f articles o f furniture in their p os

,
s es sion T hey neither u s e tables nor chairs but at meals a ll
.
,
the family sit upon their heels round the large pot with a b a ,
sin in every one s h and T hey take the rice from the pot with
’
.
a spoon and put it into the basin which they h old in their le ft
, ,
hand close to their mouths and then with two slender sticks ,
or porcupine quills between the two first fingers o f the right

,
hand they throw the food with great e x pedition into their
,
mouths T heir food consist chiefly o f boiled rice millet or

.
, ,
s ome other grains with the addition o f onions or garlic or
, , ,
some other vegetable especially the P e ts ai a kind o f insipid ,
-
,
cabbage or beet fried in oil which is most esteemed when in a
, ,
rancid state ; and sometimes they season their food with a
wretched kind o f ragout m ade o f shrimps pickled in brine , ,
.
T hey ha ve little milk no butter cheese or bread ; and u n less

, , , ,
in those places where fish abounds a morsel o f pork is the ,
only animal food which the poor c a n a ffo r d to taste as a rel
. ’
ish to their rice T hey are little s crupulous however as to

.
, ,
the articles o f their diet ; and rats frogs worms and dogs , , , .
are all excellent food to a C hinese Rice however is their gre at .

, , .
s ta ff o f li fe and its name

, f a n occurs in almost eve expre s , ,
s i on w hich r lates to fo od A meal is named tche an to eat
e
.
,
s5
C H I NA .
r i ce break fast is called tsao fa n , or m o r ni ng r i ce and s li p -
per ouan fa n or even i n g r i ce

— .
T he diet o f the wealthy in C hina is as plenti ful and s u m p tu

ous as that o f the lower classes is poor and meager T he s ub .
s t a n ti al articles o f their ordinary meals are rice pulse pork

, , , .
mutt on , poultry, and fish T hey seldom use bee f, which is said ,
.
h owever to be excellent at Wampoo ; and mutton also is good

, ,
but abounds only in the northern provinces D u cks and game .
are in daily use ; but the flesh o f young pigs which is said to ,
be extremely light and wholesome in C hina is the most com ,
mon species o f animal food at the tables o f the higher orders .
T he T artars make regular use o f ass fle s h as well as o f horse -
,
flesh which is s aid to be sold at a higher rate in C anton than
O
,
young pork T he flesh o f the b ar e and o f the stag is much
.
used in P ekin and the most esteemed part o f the latter animal
i s the tail which is reserved fo r the ta ble o f the emperor and
, ,
which sometimes sells fo r thirty or fo r ty taels It is said to .
have the taste o f rancid tallow T he wealthy C hinese seek . .
a fter the most nourishing and invigorati ng diet with great

avidity and at whatever price T he greatest delicacies are
,
.
the most gelatinous substances the paws o f the bear the fins , ,
o f the shark the sinewy parts o f the stag and other animals
, ,
the nests o f a particular species o f swallow brought chiefly ,
from C ambodia and a kind o f fucus or sea plant
,
O f this ,
-
.
last they make a very nourishi ng and re freshing j elly which

, ,
is mi x ed with sugar and orange juice T heir bread is made .
without yeast into small cakes and is very light and white , ,
but seldom su ffi ciently baked They use a variety o f vegeta .
ble substances in the form o f pickles particularly p e tsai ,

-
,
already m entioned onions gi nger and the young shoots o f
, , ,
bamboo T hey have a n umber o f fruits also preserved by
.
sugar especially a preparation from the flour o f beans which

, ,
is used s ometimes in a liquid and sometimes in a solid form , ,
and which is represented as remarkably insipid T hey are .
very fond o f eating their fruit a fter it h a been cooled upon s
ice ; and this lu x ury is so abundantly collected in the city o f

P ekin that even the poorer classes are able to procure it
,
.
Their cookery is sa i d to be su fficiently good the ir soups and ,
vermicelli particularly excellent and their pastry made from , ,

the flour o f buckwheat unusually light and as white as snow, ,
.
T heir dishes are chiefly in the form o f stews o f fish fowls and , ,
m eat sometimes separately and sometimes promiscuously

, , ,
mixed with various vegetables and s auces and their drink at
table is either tea or an ardent spirit distilled from millet or
,
rice which they always drink in a hot state and which is s aid
, ,
to resemble bur nt brandy T hey eat very plenti fully and .
,
rather voraciously at meals ; and throughout the day are con
,
s ta n tly eating pastry and fr uits sipping spirituous liquors , ,
smoking tobacco or chewing betel and arreca nut , ,

.
a a l m eeti n gs among thems elves

T h e C h in es e h a ve fet s oci ,
4 12 UN IVER S AL T RAVELLE R .
c ontinue W hole days at play and s ometi mes carry their in fat u ,
a ti on to s u ch a height as to stake their wives and children
‘
,
u p on a throw o f the dice T he higher classes are p assion .
a tely addicted to the barbarous amusement o f cock fi h tin

g g
-
,
o r rather quail fi gh t in g ; and ha ve even employed fo r the i r
-
s port in a similar m anner a species o f locusts which fight with , ,

s uch ferocity as seldom to quit their hold o f each other with
,
out bringing away a limb in their gripe T hese lit tle insect s .
are fe d with great care each in a separate b amboo cage ; and

,
it is s aid that durin g the sum mer months s carcely a boy i s
, , ,
to b e seen without h i s cage and grasshoppers Dancing is .
rather a S pectacle or pantomime in China than an exercise o f ,

i ndividuals fo r their own amusemen t ; and consists merely in
a set o f marches and evoluti ons su ffi ciently whimsical and ,
w earisome T hey h ave frequently plays represented even at
.
,
their private entertainments ; and a stage is prepared in an
instant with merely a table and a fe w chairs placed in fr ont o f
,
a large hanging in which are two openings fo r the pass age o f
,
the actors T he m andarins h ave generally rooms fo r th e
.
purpose ; and the people o ften fit up parts o f the pagods a s

theatres or erect them across the streets from one corner
, ,
house to the other where the mul titude spend whole days in
,
witnessing the exhibitions .
T h e la ws of Ch i n a a r e p a r ti cu la r ly s ever e, with respect to

a ll o ff ences committed against the sovereign ; and his li fe and
authority are guarded by the most minute and cautious regu
la tio n s . Persons convicted o f treasonable p ractices are to be ,
put to death by slow an d pain ful tortures all their male rela
tion s in th e first degree indiscriminately behe aded their fe
, , ,
m ale relati ons s old into slavery and all their connexions , ,
r esiding within their household relentlessly put to death To ,
.
intr ude even into the line o f the imperial retinue wh ile the ,
emperor is travelling or to enter any o f the apartments in the
,
palace ac t ually occupied by himsel f or his family is punish
, ,
able with death Nay to walk or ride upon the road and
.
,
b ridges along which the emperor is to p ass exposes the o f ,
fend e r to severe punishment A ll the workmen employed .
ab out the grounds a nd buildings in the palace have their ,

n a mes inserted in a list as they go in and come out ,
a r e pro
v i d e d with passports as they enter the gates which they must ,

deliver back at their ret urn ; and regularly counted as they ,
p as s and repass ; and if any one remains behind he is sub ,
j e c t to a capital p u n i s l ment I f the emperor s physician com.

’
pound any medicine fo r the use o f the sovereign in a m anner ,

which is not sanctioned by established usage he is subject to ,
the punishment o f 1 00 blows I f any di r t is found in his m a .
j y
e s t ’
s food the cook ,
is condemned to receive 8 0 blows ; if he
sends u p any dish which he has not previously tasted he r e
, ,
c eiv e s 50 blows ; i f he has mixed any unusual ingredi ent in

the food he is liable to 1 00 blows and is compell ed to s wallow
, ,
NIVE R S A L T RAVELLER U 413 .
P UN I SH M E N TS .
the article himsel f T he li fe o f man is held peculiarly s acred ;

a n d except in the case o f exposing in fants mur d er is never ,
overlooked M u rder by design is punished by beheading A d
. .
mi nistering poison is a capital crime though the dose should ,

no t occasion death Killing in an a ffray is als o punished with
.
death Homici d e or even wounding by accide n t is still pun

.
, ,
is h ab le with death ; but the o ffender may in this case redeem
h imsel f from the capi tal part o f t h e sentence by p aying a fine ,
to the relations o f the su fferer to de fray the expense o f his ,
funeral T he mere attempt or design to commit parricide is
.
p unished by beheading ; and the ac t ual perpetration o f this

crime by death with tor ture A practitioner in medicine per
,
.
,
forming any operation or administering any medicines in a , ,
manner contrary to the established rules and practice and ,
thereby occasioning the death o f his patient is considered as ,
guilty o f homicide but i t,upon examinati on it appears to have ,
been simply an error he may redeem his li fe by a fine upon

condition that he quit his pro fes sion forever T o strike a fa t her
,
.
,
mother grand father or grandmother is punishable b yb eh ea d
, , ,
in g ; and s hould a w i fe strike her husband s relations in any ’
o f these degrees she is p u nished by thr e e degrees more se

,
,
v er ely than fo r a common ass aul t ; i f she maim him she is
,
put to death ; and if he di e in consequence she is executed ,
by torture .
Th e p un i s h m en ts i nfl i ct ed by l a w i n C h i n a , are various , a o
cording to the nat ure o f the o ffence We shall notice but two . .
1 .T he bastinade which is inflicted by the pam tse or bamboo

,
-
,
.
T his instrument is a lath o f bamboo about five or six feet in ,

length and four inches in breadth at the end which is applied
, ,
to the o ffender rounded at the sides and polished at the ex

, ,
tr e m ity which is held in the hand o f the e x ecutioner It is .
g erally applied in a severe and cruel manner and it is sel

e n
,
d o m that a delinquent sur vives a fter receiving fi fty blows .
This instrument is in constant application and is inflicted fo r ,

the smallest o ffence T he more ordinary chastisements are .
not attended with dis grace and are considered merely as a ,

slight paternal correct i on It is s aid to be frequently inflicted .
in this V iew by the emperor himsel f u pon h is courtiers and

, ,
prime ministers without their for feiting his favor or losi n g
, ,
their respectability w ith the n ation ; and one o fficer may ap
ply it to another o f an in ferior order in a very summary ,
m anner upon his failing in any duty or even neglecting t o
, ,
salute his superior with proper respect When it is infl icted .
i n a court o f j ustice the presiding m andarin takes a small

,
stick about six inches in len gth and one in b readth out of a
, , ,
sag placed be fore him and throws it upon the ground T he ,
.
cul prit is instantly seized by the attendants and stretched upon ,

ni s face on the earth his clothes p u lled down t o his heels and
, ,
{i ve smart blows applied to his posterior ; and fo r every ,
‘
b ti ck th e m a darin throws from h i s b a g fi v e ad d i tional blow s
§5n ,
4 14 U N IVER S AL T RAVELLER .
C H IN A .
ar e inflicted T he o ffender must then throw himsel f upon h is

.
knees be fore the judge incline his body to the ground and
, ,
ve him thanks fo r the Care which he takes o f his morals
'
his is affi rmed to be done even by the higher o ffi cers to

t heir superiors When women are subj ected to this punish
.
ment they are permitted to wear an upper and under gar

,
ment except in cases o f a dultery when they are all owed only
, ,
the under garment It is s aid th at a Chinese when undergo
.
, ,
ing the bamboo cries out in a most piteous manner and
, ,
m akes his acknowledgments a fterwards wi th the utmost h u
m ilia tio n ; but that a T artar generally su ffers in silence ,
grumbles against the executioner and at length sul lenly r e ,
tires In the c ase o f mandarins corpor eal chastisement may
.
, ,
in ordinary cases be commuted fo r fine or degradation or
, ,
en tire dismiss al from the service o f govern ment T he near .
relation also o f a convicted o ff ender m ay put himsel f in the

, , ,
p lace o f his friend and undergo the legal punishment pro

, ,
v i d e d that it be slight It is a ffi rmed even that there are per
.
, ,
sons who make a trade o f o ffering themselves as substitutes
in these cases and who are fr eely a d m itte d by the j udges
,
'
.
T hese persons contrive to es cape without much injury by ,

s haring their pay with the executioner as the actual o ffender ,
also m ay do when he submits in person in the following man
, ,
ner — When the deli n quent or substit ute is stretched upon the
earth a n d the executioner ready to s trik e he raises his fingers
, , ,
in what number he thinks proper each o f them expressing a ,
certain number o f the smaller coins T he soldier under .
stands the signal appears to strik e with all his force but takes
, ,
c are to make the end o f the bamboo touch the ground ; and
thu s the su fferer though he does not fail to utter loud cries to
,
keep up the deception re turns without h aving sustained much
,
D ea th b y s t r a n g li n g T he former punishment
or b eh ea d i n g —
is not inflicted by s uspension as in E urope but a running , ,
noose is put round the neck o f th e criminal a n d two attend ,
ants pull the cords in di fferent directions with all their might , ,
suddenly quit their hold fo r a moment then give a second pull
which ge nerally completes the business ; or the criminal is tie d
,
u pright to a cross a rope passed about his neck and twisted

, ,
strongly behind by means o f a stick or b o w in the hand o f , ,
the executioner T he latter punishment that o f beheading
.
, ,
is accounted the most in famous ; and as the C hinese consider

the los s o f any member with which they have been born as
, ,
one o f the greatest mis fortunes they have a peculiar horror ,
o f su ffering decapitation and o f thus dying in a mutilated,

state deprived o f the noblest part o f the body S ometi mes
,
.
the head o f the criminal esp ecially o f an assassin is exposed

, ,
in a cage suspended from a post erected at the side o f the
highway Persons guilty o igh treason are put to death by
.
f h
a slow and pain ful execution and though it is sometimes spe

c ifi e d t hat this shall be done by O pening the be lly o f the crim
4 16 U NIV ER S A L T R AVELLER .
C H I NA .
wi th medicines and attended by a physician at the expens e

, ,
o f the emperor U pon the death o f a prisoner the emperor
.
,
must be immediately in formed and he sometimes commis ,
‘
sions a higher mandarin to inquire how far the inspecting

o ffi cer has done his duty T he body o f a deceased prisoner .
is not carried out by the ordinary gate but by a hole in the wall , ,
m ade fo r the purpose which is accoun ted one o f the most i n ,
famous occurr ences in the li fe o f a Chinese ; and one o f their
heaviest imprecations upon another is to wish that he may ,
be carried through the hole Hence when a person pos~ .
, ,
sessed o f any property or station falls sick in prison his rela , ,
tions use all their means to procure his dismissal ti ll cured ,
th at in case o f his dying he may thus avoid the fate o f being
, ,
c arried through the wall .
T h er e a r e no i n n s i n a n y a r t of th e emp i r e that is in h ab , ,
ite d houses where the trave er may procure rest and re fresh
ment ; and th is want is not compens ated by the hospitality o f
the natives who are rather inclined to s hut their doors against
,
strangers than to welcome them with the o ffer o f rest or shel

,
ter There are indeed wh at are called inns or rather resting
.
, ,
places consisting o f bare walls where the traveller m ay pur
, ,
chase permission to pass the night and perhaps procure a cup ,
o f tea O f these there are a su fficient n umber some o f which
.
,
are established by government fo r the convenience o f those
who travel in the service o f the emperor ; but the o ffi cers o f
th e state very generally m ake use o f the temples and convents
as places o f lodging when they travel by land and the in fr e
,
quen o y o f land travelling in C hina is such as scarcely to ,
a fford s u pport to houses o f proper accommodation fo r pas
s e n ge r s .
It is scarcely possible to procure horses upon the roads ,
especially in the southern provinces but there is no difii c ulty ,

in fi nding abundance o f palanquins carts ha n d barrows and , ,
-
,
especially e x cellent porters who are chiefly empl oyed in trans ,
porting baggage from one town or stage to another T hey .
.
are united in bodies in every town under a common chie f who ,
re gulates their engagements fixes the price o f their labors , ,

receives their hire and is respo n sible fo r their fidelity T hese
,
.
o ffi ces are all regulated by government and m aintain a cor ,

respondence with each other T he traveller carries to one o f .
them be fore his depart ure a list o f the articles which he

, ,
wishes to have conveyed and which is immediately enter e d ,
into a book E very thing is w eighed be fore the eyes o f the
.
chie f ; the fare is generally paid in advance at the rate o f ,
fi v e pence per cwt fo r one day s carriage and the trave ller
-
’
on his arrival at the next city finds every thing sa fely lodge d
.
,
,
at the corresponding o ffi ce .
T here are post houses established upon the great roads but
-
,
s olely fo r the service o f government ; and no one but the

couriers o f the state are allowed to use the horses which are
.
found at these stations T hese posts or relays are by no .

,
U NI VE R S AL T RAVE L LE R . 4 17
A RC H IT E CT U R E .
m eans very numerous and are frequently at great di s t anc e ,

from each other T he couriers carry the despatches in a ro ll
.
or long b ag covered wi th yellow s ilk and laid across their

, ,
back ; and either the horse has a belt attached to its neck or ,
the rider strikes upon a copper dr um to announce h is arrival ,
that a fresh horse may be ready without delay T hough th e .
horses which belong to government are small ill fe d and

, , , ,
c arelessly treate d t h ese couriers tr avel at a considerable rate
,
g enerally 1 00 and sometimes 1 5 0 miles in

,
the 2 4 hours ; an ,
they have been known to pas s between Canton and Pekin in the
s pace o f 1 1 days T here are al so c avalry soldi ers at every
.
city who are intended to carry the orders and despatches o f

,
the mandari ns ; but who volunt arily t ake charge o f the letters
o f individuals which they carry in a leather bag attached to
,
t heir s addle .
Guard houses are placed along the r oads fo r the p rotecti on

-
o f travellers at in tervals o f hal f a lea gue a league two

, , ,
lea gues or even more ; and the space between them is com
,
mouly m arked upon a wooden door in their fr ont T hey are .
p rovided with a guard o f five soldiers and consist general ly ,

o f a lodging house and a stable ; someti mes accomp anied
-
by a square tower aho u t 20 or 25 feet in height adorned with ,
p arapets and a small apa rtment on the top ; or a small wooden

,
c ab supporte d by four very tal l posts to which they ascend
'
,
b y a adder ; or a square buil di ng o f two stories on a risin g ,
ground w ith a smal l O pen room on its summit T hese towers
,
.
,
c abins and heights are used by the soldi ers as places fr om
, ,
which they occasionally keep a lookout and make signals to ,
the neighboring guard stations by kindling a heap o f str aw in ,
a brick furnac e The soldiers however who ought to do .
, ,
duty at these watch houses are frequently absent and th eir -
, ,
doors shut It is only when a m andarin is expected to pass
.
,
that they are sure to be at their post and on such occasions ,
the guard is drawn out the kettle drum sounded and thr ee ,
-
,
rounds fi red .
T h e Ch i n es e c tu r e bears no resemblance to that o f

a r ch i t e
Europe ; and is not easily described in the usual term s o f a r t .
T heir houses in general have nothing remarkable in their ex

t ernal appearance and even their public edifices are di sti n ,
gui s h e d rather by their extent than the ir magnificence T heir .
whole sty le o f buildin g is represented by intelligent observers ,

as extremely slight and ill proportioned inelegant in their de -
sign and clumsy in the execution A l l their dwellings are

, .
supposed to have been originally constructed a fter the model

o f a t ent with a carved roo f and wooden pillars round the
, ,
brick wall in imitati on o f the poles which support the sides o f
the tent T he external form and aspect o f a ll the houses are
.
extremely simi lar ; and the habitation o f a grandee in the capi

tal is di stin guished h o m that o f a tradesman chiefly by b ein g
, ,
surr o un ded by a h igh wall and by occupyi ng a great er spac e ,
C H INA .
of ground T he dwellings o f the peasantr y indeed are in

.
, ,
general extremely wretched and little better than huts con , ,
sisting o f low brick or eart hen walls covered by a slender ,
roo f o f straw or reeds T he habitations o f the ordinary in
.
habitants in cities are confined within narrow limits ; an d a

smal l court w ith two or three lo wl r o o fe d apartments form s
, ,
the lodging o f a whole family T he walls are generally o f .
wood occasionally o f brick but rarely o f stone ; and are

, ,
neither solidl y constructed nor properly founded T he roo f ,
.
is commonly composed o f tiles formed in the shape o f a ,

canal and those which are placed at the extremi ty are fo r the
,
most part curiously wr ought and di fferently shaped The .
lower stories are raised a little above the sur face o f the ground
to avoid the moisture and are paved with bricks or square
,
tiles T he second flats are chiefly employed as store —rooms
.
,
and the stairs in constructing which the C hinese architect s
,
are extremely unskil ful are little better than uprigh t ladders
,
.
T he houses o f the more wealthy are distingu ished by their

large courts galleries o f communication and various gates
, ,
.
T he ground plot o f 300 or 4 00feet is laid out into ten or twelve

courts paved with tiles In some o f these courts a r e three or
.
four tent shaped houses standing upon stone terraces which

-
, ,
are about three feet above the leve l o f the pavement ; and from
each o f these apartments and courts are galleries o f c o m m u
n ic a tio n consisting o f colonnades o f red wooden pillars rest
,
ing on stone leading to the adj oining p arts o f the habitati on
so th at every part o f it may be visited without being expose d
,
to the sun or air T he floors o f the apartments are pave d

.
with bricks or clay ; the ceiling is forme d o f bamboo laths

covered with plaster or is le ft altogether open without any
, ,
thing to conceal the ra fters T he windows are without glass .
,
but are furnished wi th oil paper horn silk gauze or pearl shell , , , ,
as a substit ute T he w alls are generally whitened wi th lime

.
m ade from shells or covered with white paper ; and some o f

,
the room s have holes in the corners by way o f fireplaces , ,
from which the heat is conveyed through flu e s in the walls or ,
u nder the floor T he apartments o f the ladies have frequently
.
two stories the uppermost o f which have o ften no light a n d

, ,
are seldom so good as the common garret in E ngland T he .
furniture consists o f a table a fe w clumsy chairs o f varnished ,

wood which on days o f ceremony are covered with red cloth
, ,
s ome porcelain dishes filled with lemon tr ees or other s hrubs ,
copper vessels fo r burning per fumes and lantern s o f various ,
forms m ade o f paper silk ivory or horn and sometimes orna
, , , , ,
m en te d in a very expensive manner Looking glasses are .
-
rarely found in C hinese apartments and little a ttention ap ,

pears to be paid to internal decorations .
F ew o th e m a n uf a ctur i n g a r ts h ave attained any high de gre e

o f ex c e lence in China ; and almost the only one , in w h ic h t ey
h
e xcel, is in the art o f pott ery E ven the super i or q uah ty .
U N IVER S AL T RAVELL E R .
C H I NA .
them passing through a variety o f hands perhaps to the num ,

b er o f twenty be fore they are ready fo r the furnace
,
T hey .
are then baked but it o ften h appens that from too strong a
, .
heat the whole are completely spoiled being converted into a

s hapeless mass as h ard as flint Th e C hinese n ame fo r .
porcel ain is tse kee ; and the best is made in the v illage o f
-
Kiang te ching in the province o f K iang—see T he finest is

- -
,
.
reserved fo r the emperor ; and it has been questioned whether ,

any o f the largest and most beauti ful pieces have ever been
brought to E urope T he porcelain pieces are painted o f v a .
r i o u s colors ; but the prevailing color is white with blue fl o w ,

e r s ; and the greater part o f what is transported to E urope is
o f this color A n in ferior kind entirely white i s also brought
_
to Canton in order to be painte d there according to the orders

,
, ,
o f the E uropean merchants It is said that one o f th e most e s .
,
t eemed and expensive kinds is o f a red color which is some ,
times uni form throughout and someti mes merely sprinkled in ,
the form o f sm all spots which is done by dipping the end o f
a pipe cover ed wi th gauze into the coloring matter and then ,
blowing it upon the porcelain T here is also a black or lead .
c olored porcelain sometimes interspersed with gi lding which

, , ,
is in great request ; and this gold color is prepared by rubbing
with the palm o f the hand in a plate o f the porcelain gold
'
, ,
dust mi x ed with water and sugar It is then applied with a .
pencil dippe d in clear gum —water and when the vessel has
passed h r o u gh the furnace the gold is polished wi th a fi ne
wet san (s
,
Th e u s e of has unquestionably been known in China from

s i lk
a very remote period ; and mentio n is m ade o f a kind o f bro
c ade in the annals o f T c h eo o about 7 8 0 years be fore C hrist “
.
T here are strong grounds however fo r the belie f that the cul , , ,
ture o f the silk worm was first introduced into the C hinese
-
empire by a colony o f Jews a fter the expe d ition o f A lexande r ,

to India had opened a communication with these countries ;
and it i s at least certain that they are the best manu facturers
o f that article in C hina and abound chiefly in the silk prov~
,
,
in c e s But in whatever way and at whatever period the
.
, , ,
m anu facture o f silk was introduced it has been c u ltivated to ,
such an amazing e x tent that besides the immense quantitie s , ,
annually exported it forms the principal clothing o f the greater
,
part o f the inhabitants T he best is produced in the province .
o f T che — kiang and i s distinguished by its superior fineness o f

,
texture so ftn ess to th e touch and whiteness o f color T he
, ,
.
greater quantity o f silk stu ffs are manu factured in the prov
ince o f K iang nan and its capital Na nk een from which i s
-
, ,
procured all that is intende d fo r the use o f the empire The .
C hinese manu facture this substance into a great variety o f

s t uff s plain striped flowered napped clouded gauzes vel , , , , ,
v ets and brocades o f every di fferent color especially V iolet

, ,
, , , ,
r e d yellow and black ; and a multitude o f oth e r kinds who s e

, , ,
Per s ia n qf High R
'
a n k. P 4 00
. .
Per s ia n S moking . P 4 02
. .
422 U NIVER S AL T R A VELLER .
C H I NA .
unless he be a mandarin in which case he presen ts his work ,

to the emperor and i f approved by the imperial college it i s
, , ,
printed at the expense o f gover n ment T here are numerous .
printing o ffi ces in C hina especially in the city o f S o o tche c o

,
-
fo o in the province o f Kiang—nan where a considerable

, ,
trade is carried on in books which are chiefly however col , , ,
lections o f poetical pieces .
Th e w o m en ar e and are not per

i n va r i a bly s old a t m a r r i a g e,
m itte d to exercise any choice their own T he bridegroom of .
bargains with the p arents or other relations ; and the highest

bidder is commonly pre ferred A t the same time he is not .
,
allo wed to see his intended wi fe till she arrives in processio n ,
at his gate shut up in a close chair o f which he then receives
, ,
the key and should it happen upon his opening the door o f
, ,
the vehicle that he is not pleased with his bargain he is at
,
liberty to return her to her friends upon condition o ffor feiting ,
the p u rchase money But the lady h as no remedy or option
.
,
and m u s t p a s s to the highest purchaser or to the person whom ,
her p arents choose to pre fer Mutual a ffection there fore b e .
, ,
tween the sex es m ay be considered as in a manner unknown
,
i n C hina ; but every one h astens to p rocure a wi fe because ,
such i s the law and custom o f his country He sets out to .
purch ase his future partner as he would look out fo r some , .
necess ary article o f household furniture ; and she co n tinues ,

on her side to act nearly as inanimate and motionless a part
,
as i f she were nothing else S h e neither considers it any ln .
dignity nor expresses any feeli n g o f j ealousy though a second

, ,
or third wi fe should be brought into the house ; but is content
ed with presiding as the first female ih the family and with ,
being called mother by all the children U pon the death o f .
the husband the widow i f a person o f rank is honored by

, , ,
pr s e ing her state o f widowhood ; a n d it is very rarely the
e r v
case that she enters the seco n d time into the marriage li fe .
But in the lower classes the relations o f the deceased gene

, ,
rally dispose o f the widow to another husband that they may ,
gain s omething by pocketing th e price which she brings T he .
m arriage ceremo n y is su ffi c i ently simple and consists in little ,

else than the procession o f the bride to the gate o f the bride
groom and his reception o f her into his house T he bargain
,
.
,
as h as been me n tioned is concluded between the relations on

,
each side ; and the acceptance o f the marriage presents is a o
counted a su fficient evidence and ratification o f the contr act .
On the d ay appointed the bride is conveyed in a close palan

,
quin to her future residence escorted by domestic and female ,
slaves bearing presents from her family to her inte n ded hus
,
band preceded by musicians o f di fferent descriptions a n d
, ,
fo llowed by her friends and relations One o f her nearest .
kindred carries the key o f the palanquin and commits it to ,

the bridegroom upon reaching his house who conducts h is ,
s pouse to the presence o f his parents be fore whom they b oth ,

NI VER S A L T R A VELLER
U 423 .
FU N E R A L RITE S .
prostrate themselves in token o f duti ful submission A ft er ,

.
wards the two parties partake together o f food and drink

, ,
wine out o f the s ame cup T he male attendants are enter .
t a in e d in one apartment and the females in another ; and on ,

these occ asions the C hinese are o ften extr emely extra vagant ,
so as frequently to impoverish themselves during the rest 0 .
their lives by the expenses att endin g the m arriages o f their

,
children T he wives continue their fb r m er retired li fe seein g
.
,
only their husbands or near relati ons occu pying the m selv e s ,
wi th the internal economy o f their households and de v otin g ,
the greatest attention to the care o f their children .
Th e f u n er a l are attended with enormous expens e in

r i t es
C hina ; and the most showy articles to be foun d fo r sale in the
large cities are co ffins fo r the dead They are made 0
,
. ,
planks from three to six inches in thickness very closely j oin

, ,
e d ; raised like a tru n k on the top and general] convex als o , , ,
at the two ends T hey are sometimes m ade 0 the more p r e
.
c io u s k i nds o f wood ve r y richly ornamented and cost from , ,

300 to 6 00 dollars while tha t o f a person in ordinary wealthy
circumstances is seldom procured fo r less than from 1 0 to 1 5
or twenty dollars It is a comm on practice fo r indi viduals to
.
purchase their co ffi ns during their lives ; and it is frequently

the son who presents one to his father which is always th e ,
more high ly valued and shown with greater complacency ,
to every visiter in proportion to its magni ficence Whe n .
brought forth fo r use a layer o f lime is put into the bottom ,

the body deposited in full dress with a cushion under th e ,
head ; the vacant place is completely fil led wi th lime and cot
ton and the lid then fastened down with the utmost exact
,
ness T he whole co ffin is gen erall y pitched within and with
.
out sometimes covered with varnish and whitened externally

, , .
In this state th ey o ft en remain in the houses a considera b le

ti me without the smallest odor being perceived ; and while
, ,
the body o f a parent is thus kept uninterred during the period
o f mourning his children go every day to weep at the side
'
,
o f the co ffin I n or di nary cases th e corpse is laid in a room
.
hung w ith white cloth w ith a covering o f the s ame colo r ,

thrown over the c o fli n and a table placed b e fore it with candl es ,
o f per fumed m aterials In this situation it remains several .
days in the house previous to interment ; and all wh o come to

show their respect to the memory o f th e deceased are enter ,
t a in e d by some o f the relatives with tea and other re fres h
ments On the day o f th e funeral a ft er the relations an d
.
,
friends are assembled the proces sion i s opened by musicia n s , ,
who are followed by several persons c a r r yin the figures o f
various anim als the insignia o f the rank 0 the deceased
, .
small pagodas parasols white and blue flags with vessels o f

, , ,
perfumes Next walk a party o f B onzes immediately be fo r e
.
,
the c o tfi n which is carried by 4 8 or even 20 men upon a lit
, , , ,
t er which is s ometimes surmounted by a canopy
, Behin d th e .
J AP AN .
b ody are the children and near relatives with robes o f coarse ,
li nen over their clothes and caps o f the same s t uff The eld
, .
es t s o n walks w ith his body bent forwards lea ni ng upon a

,
s t a ff and is generally supported by two friends one on each
, ,
side wh o prevent his repeated attempts to tear hi s hair and
his face T hese are followed by the friends and domestics :
.
and last o f a ll at a little distance behind appear the women

, , ,
o n foot or in palanquins
,
with dishevelled hair and broad ,
white fillets round their temples dressed also in the same ,
c oarse linen as the men and bursting at intervals as with one
, ,
consent into lamentations and tears When the co ffi n is e n
,
.
tir ely covered with earth libations are poured out ; per fumed,
candles and paper flags placed around and upon the tomb ;
and the figures o f men clothes and horses all o f cut paper
, , , ,
are burned u pon the s p o in the firm persuasion th at the o h ,
j e c t s thereby re r es en te will attend the deceased into the

other world A er the ceremonies are finishe d the company
.
,
rest themselves in tents erected at a lit tle distance from the
grave where they pronounce the eulog ium o f the deceased
, ,
and partake o f th e meats o ffered to his memory ; and
t ur ning to the grave prostrate themselves be fore it and ex
, ,
c han ge s alutations wi t h the chie f mourner in pro found silence ,
9 . JA PAN .
T he islands o f Japan consist o f thr ee large and numerous ,

other smaller islands lying on the eastern side o f Asia in the
, ,
S outh Pacific Ocean T he largest and by far the most im
.
portant island is calle d by the Japanese p N i h o n — but by the

C hinese S ip o n and J ep u en T his island is 700 miles in length
.
,
and h o m 7 5 to 80 broad .
Th e or f has
ig i n a l p op u la t i onbeen li ttle il lustrated
o J ap a n .
T he present Japanese seem to b e a kindred race with the C h i

nese having at the same time according to K amp fer a lan
, , ,
guage radically di stinct Perhaps in the earlier stages o f s o
.
c i e ty as is observed by Pinkerton
,
the Japanese may have ,
emigrated from C hina and their complete insular separation
,
m ay have ven birth to a lan guage rendered peculiar by the
'
progress 0 a distinct ci vilization T he people o f this nation .
are described by T hunberg to be well made active free and , ,

easy in their motions and stout limbed though yieldi ng in
, ,
s trength to the northern inhabitants o f E urope The men are .
middle sized and in general not corpulent all over o f a yel

, ,
lowi sh color ; in some brown in others white predominates , .
T he lower classes from exposure to the sun are brown but

, , ,
ladies o f distinction who seldom go abroad uncovered are
, ,
p er fectly white T he discriminating

. mark o f the Japanese ,
426 U NI VER S A L T R A VELLER .
JA PAN .
are o f wood never e x ceedi ng two storie s

T h e J a p a n h ou s es , .
the upper one consisting chiefly o f garrets and lumber rooms .
T ho u gh the house is commodious it consists in general o f ,

one room capable by moveable partitions and screens o f
, , ,
being divided into apartments Neither tables nor ch airs are .
used the people sitting squ at on straw mats in which position

, ,
they eat thei r food .
T h e d i et the Japanese is composed o f a greater varie ty o f

of
articles than that o f any other people in the world Not con ~ .
tented with the numerous kinds o f wholesome and n utr itive

food supplied by the produce o f their lands and waters they ,
contrive by their modes o f preparing their victuals to re n der ,
the less valuable and even the poisonous parts o f animal a n d
,
vegetable substances use ful or at least harmless articles o f ,
subs i stence T heir meats are cu t into small pieces thorough
.
,
ly stewed or boiled and always h i ghly seasoned with strong ,
spices and sauces A t their meals the company are seated on
.
,
the fl o o r mats with a small square table be fore each person
-
, ,
whose portion is served u p in neat vessels o f porcelain or o f ,
j apanned wood which are tolerably large b asins always fu r
, ,
n i s h e d with lids T he guests salute each other with a low
.
bow be fore they begi n to eat ; and like the C hinese take u p , ,
the food by means o f two small pieces o f wood held between ,
the fingers o f the right hand and used with great dex terity so , ,
as to pick up the smallest grain o f rice B et w een each dish .
they drink warm s a c ki or rice beer out o f shallow sau cers , , ,

and at the same time occasionally take a bit o f a hard boiled
egg S ome o f the most c o m m o rnd is h e s are fish boiled with
.
onions and a kind o f small beans or d re sse d with oil ; fowls ,

stewed and prepared in numerous modes ; and boiled ric e ,
which suppl i es the place o f bread fo r all their provisions .
Oils mushrooms carrots and variou s bulbous roots are used

, , , ,
in making up their dishes Tea and rice beer are the only .
liquors u sed by the Japanese ; and it is with di fli culty that they

can be persuaded to taste wine or S pirits T he s a c ki or rice .
,
beer b e a ts and inebriates when taken to any extent but the
, ,
intoxication which it produces passes o ff speedily T ea which .
,
is always ready is the usual beverage fo r quenching thirst
,
.
It is customary to eat three times a day ; at eight o clock in ’
the morning two in the a fternoon and eight in the evening

, ,
.
T he women eat by themselves apart from the men T he ,

.
practice o f smoking tob acco which is supposed to have been ,

introduced into Japan by the P ortuguese is very common with ,
both sexes T heir pipes are very short seldom more t h an six
.
,
inches in length and scarcely contain hal f a thimble full o f to
,
bacco T he stem is made o f lackered bamboo and the mouth
.
,
piece and bowl o f copper T hey are smoked out by a very
,
‘
fe w whi ff s and require to be repeatedly filled

,
T he appara .
tus used by persons o f distinction consists o f an oblong box ,

a bout ei ghtee n inch e s in len gt h and a foot in br e adth o f a ,
UN IVER S AL T RAVELLE R . 427
J A P AN .
b rown or black color w hich c o ntains be s ides pipes and tobac

, ,
c o three c up s ; o n e whic h is lined with brass fo r hol d ing a
, , ,
live coal to light the pipe another to receive the ashes o f the ,
t obac co an d th e third to s erve as a spit box
,
A t vi sits this -
.
apparatus is the fi r st thing th at is pla ced be fo r e the guests ,

a n d is sometimes carri e d by a s er vant to places where tobac
c o is not expected to b e p res ent e d T he poorer classes have .
their to ba c co p ou c h a nd p ipe s lung to their gir d le by a silken

c ord .
Ag r i cu ltu r e b ei n g i n h igh in J apan it meets wi th es t im a ti on ,

the greates t encou ragement from the governm e nt T h e chie f .
produce is rice barley and wheat being little u s e d A kind o f

,
.
p otato is co mmon and several s orts o f beans and p eas

,
turnips and cabbage abound T h e rice is s own in A p ril an ,
.
,
gathered in November T h e s ides o f the hills pres en t a s ingu .
lar spectacle to th e s tr an ger from the mode o f cultivation ,

which is adopted S tone walls support level platforms sown
.
wit h rice or roo ts ; and thousands o f th ese are scatt ered over
,
th e mountains a fford ing a favo rable picture o f the ingenuity
,
a n d industry o f the inhabitants T hough the space should .
not exceed two fe et square a s tone wall is raised at the b o t ,
tom the enclo s ure fil led with earth and care ful ly sown with
, ,
rice or planted with esculent roots A s m ay be easily sup
,
.
posed from this state o f general cultivatio n fe w forests are

, ,
s u ffered to grow : these are co nfined to the sides o f such
mountains probably as c an be subdued by neither a gri c ul
, ,
ture la b or nor skill
, ,
.
T here are no fences u s ed in dividing the cultiva ted gr ounds

in this country ; and the fields o ften resemble kitchen gar dens
d ivided into narrow be ds which are separated from each other ,
by a dee p trench ne arly as bro ad as the divisions which are
,
under the crop A fter a certain interval the trench e s ar e
.
,
filled up w ith earth s o as to b e c onverted in their tu r n into
,
beds and give the soil a res t from cons tant b earing I n thes e
,
.
beds the corn is sown sometimes lengt hwise but more com ,
m o n ly ac ros s and a fter th e c r O p is cut down another kind ,
o f grain is sown in the s am e sea son between the stubble o f ,
the old crop so as to make th e s ame field produce twi ce in
o n e ye ar Th e greates t care is bestowed upo n manuri ng a n d
.
cleaning ground Every kin d o f substance which can be

.
conver te d into m anure is care fully c ollecte d ; and together with

urine a n d foul water fro m the kitc hen i s mixed up in a liquid ,
s tate It is then c arried in large pails to the fields an d by
.
, ,
means o f a ladle it is p oured upo n the plant a fter it is six
,
i nches in height Irrigation is also much practised wherever
water can be procured in the Vicini ty o f th e fields Th e weed s
.
“
are so completely cleared away that the most quick sighte d -
,
” “
botanist says T hunberg would scarcely be able to discov er
, ,
a single plant o f ano ther species among the corn ” Th e .
grain is frequently separated from th e straw merely by be ating

428 U N I VE R S A L TRA V EL LER .
JA P AN .
the sheaves against a post or barr e l ; b u t it is commonly

thrash e d o n straw mats in the open air by means o f fi ails with ,
thr e e s w ingles T here are no pasture grou nds amon g th e
.
cultivated tracts ; and the fe w cattle u s ed in the country are

all fe d in the farmyards T hunberg a ffi rms that the soil .
,
throughout Japan is natur ally barren and has been rendere d ,

so remarkably pro duc tive only by th e lab o r and skill o f the
T he Japanese have been c elebrated fo r the ir proficiency in

th e t s a n d s ci en c es
ar Pe rhaps the sa fest s tandar d o f compar
.
ison in this respect will be their neighbors the C hinese

, , ,
.
T hey excel in the manu fac t ure s o f silk and cotton T heir .
swords ar e o f curio u s workm anship T heir varnish is well .
known a s ini mitabl e, b ut fo r this they are chiefly indebted to

the vegetable from which it is made T he Jap a ne s e cultivat e .
music painting dra w ing geo ap h y a s tro n omy and history

, , , , ,
.
T heir art o f pr inting is con ned to the u s e o f bloc ks with

wh ich they impress only one side o f the paper S chools gene .
rally abound and corporal punishment it is said is not in

, , ,
t r od uc e d into t h eir s ystem o f educ ati o n T hey have som e .
knowled ge o f engrav ing ; and are tolerably versed in t h e

practical part o f surveying s o as to pos s ess pretty accurate ,
maps o f th eir own country and its towns T hei r a r tific e r s .
work very skil fully in iron and copper and in a mixture o f ,

gold and C opper called souas which they have the art o f
, ,
staining black or blue by means o f their ink T hey excel in .
the fabrication o f the steel instruments a nd their swords ar e ,

o f i n co m parable p r o o f They are acqu ainted wit h the art o f
.
making glas s a n d grinding it fo r telesc o p e s ; wit h the con

.
struction o f w atche s w hich they learned from their E uropean

,
visiters ; and with th e m anu facture o f p aper from the bark o f
the mulberry tree T heir silk and cotton stu ffs are equal and
.
,
o ften superior to similar pr o duction s of other eastern coun
tries and their lackering or varnishing in woo d su rpasses a ll
t h e attemp ts which have ever been made in that depa r tment by
an y other people in the world .
T h e p u bli c constr ucted and kept with great care

r oa ds a r e .
T hey are made very broad wi th a ditch on e ach side to carry ,

o ff the water ; and are frequ ently bordered wi th hedges whic h ,
sometimes are formed o f the t ea sh r ub P osts are regul arly -
.
erected to indicate the miles which are all meas u red from the ,
capital and also to direct the traveller at every cross road A t
,
.
the time when the princes o f the country m ake th eir annual
j ourney to the court the roads a r e freed fr o m every kind o f
,
dirt sprinkled with water in hot weather and sometimes even
, ,
swept w ith brooms In travelling on these roads it is the rule
.
,
fo r all who are going towards the capital to keep to the le ft a n d
,
fo r those who move in an opposite d irection to take the r i ght ;
or rather fo r each passenger to keep always to the side on h is
430 U NIV ER S A L T R A V E LLER .
JA P AN .
T he Japanese put gr ea t faith in amul ets : hence a monstro us ,

picture o f a human h gure covered with hair and with a sword , ,
in each hand or a drag o n s h e a d with a wide mouth large
,
’
, ,
teeth a nd fiery eyes is placed over the door o f every h ou se
, , ,
t o keep all m is fortun e s from the inmates In s o me cases the .
,
branch o f a tree ; o r lo n g strips o f paper inscribed with nec

'
,
rom antic characters are employed fo r the same "
purpose ,
On .
the high road every m o untain hill and c lifi is consecrated

, , , ,
to some divinity ; and at all these places t r avellers h av e to
,
repeat prayers fr equently several tim e s over But as the per

,
.
,
fo r m a n c e o f this duty woul d detain pio u s travelle rs too long ,

certa in p r a yi ng m a ch i n es are res orted to T hese machine s .
c onsist o f a p o st set upright i n the ground with a long verti

, ,
cal cut in it abou t three feet and a hal f abo v e
,
a n d in thi s o p e n ing a flat r o und iron p l ate t urns like a s hea ve ,
in a block T h e praye r is en graved upon the plate and to
.
,
turn it round is equivalent to repeating the pra yer which is ,
supposed to be a s many ti me s as the plate turns In this man .
ner the traveller is able w ithout s te p p in g and merely by '
, ,
t ur ning the plate with his finger to send up to the presidin g ,
divinity even mo r e prayers than he i s enj o ined to d o a nota
ble kin d o f
i
’
c elebr a t ed among the Japanese with ma ny ri

Ma r r i a g e i s
di c ulo u s ceremonies and o ften with great pomp T he prince s
,
.
r e ce i ve t he ir b ri d es from the hands o f the sovereig n ; a n d th e

m arri ages o f the vassal s are regulated by th eir lo r d s A mong '
the middle classes in the cities the business is arranged by , ,

the parents The wives bring no po rtions but are purchase d
.
,
o f t heir parents a n d relation s to whom h andsom e daughters , ,
or ward s are o fi e n a gr e at sour ce o f wealth T h e bridegroo m
,
.
most commonly sees his b ride for the first time u pon her b e , ,
ing brought to his house from the te mple where th e nupti al
ceremony has been performed a n d where she i s cl o sely veile d ,
fr om head t o ~fo ot On the wedding day the bride s teeth ar e
r .
,
’
blackened with a c orrosive liqu id a n d they eve r a fter remain ,

s o : in some part s o f the empire her eyebrows are also sha ,
v e d o ff . A fter marriage th e wives o f the rich are m ostly con ,
fined to their o w n apartments those o f the o ther classes visit ,
their relations and appear in publi c but are distinguished by
, ,
great res erve and modes ty .
J apanese
W
L i tt l e d
d t hose
r en c e ex
o he orientals Whe n a prince o r
i s ts b et ween th e
of t r
f un er a l c er em on i es o f th e
an .
,
great m an di es ten twen ty or more youth s o f his househol d
, , , ,
and such as w er e his greatest favorites put themselves to a ,
voluntary death at the place o f interme nt or burning T h e
,
.
funeral pile consis t s o f odori ferous woods gums spices oils , , , ,

and oth er c o m b us tibl e s as soon as it is lighted the r elati on s
-
t N ew Edinb u rg h E n cyclonedia
U NI V E R S A L T RAVELLER . 43 1
B IRM A N E MPIR E .
an dfriends the deceased throw their o e gs o f clo thes

of
ff rin
,
arms , food , money herbs and flowers in to th e fl a m es im
, , , ,
a gi n in g they will be of u se to him in the other world T he .
m ausolea in which the as hes o f the grea t are deposited are

, ,
g en e ral l y ve ry m agnifice nt and situated at s o m e distance ,
from the towns T h e middle and lower orders o f the peop le

.
bury their dead with no other ceremony than that o f burning

s ome odori ferous wood and gums P eriodical visits are paid .
to th e to mbs and fe st iva ls ar e h el d in hon or o f the dead

,
.
*
10 . BIRM A N EMPIRE .
T his empire which lies to the s outh and southwest o f Chin a

, ,
e xtends over what is us ually ca lled India be yond the G ange s ,
and embraces various distinct nations or tribes di ffering ,
w idely in d ialect h ysiognomy and cus to ms Malte B run

p
.
, ,
e stimates t h e emp i re at about 1 05 0 geo graphical m iles in
len gth and 6 00in breadth containing he thi nks square , ,
m iles T he population has been vario usly esti ma ted from
,
.
four to seventeen millions .
I n th ei r p l the Birm ans bear a n e ar er r es em

s i ogn o m
blance to the gh in es e t an to the n atives o f Hindostan T he ,

.
women are fairer than the Hindoo females but not so deli ,
c a t e ly formed ; they are however well m ade and in general , , ,
:
inclined to corpule n ce ; their hair is black coarse and long , ,

.
T h e men are not tall but active and athletic and h ave a very , ,
outh ful appearance from the custom o f plucking their beards
y11 their temperament which is lively chole ric and restless
.
,
,
they present a striking contrast to the langui d ina ctivity o f
, ,
th e Hind o os Dr B uchanan describes them as o f a short

“
. .
,
squat robust fleshy make with a face somewhat in shape o f
, , ,
a lozenge the forehead and chin b eing sha r pened while at
, ,
the cheek bones it is very broad T he eyeb rows proj ect very .
little ; the eyes are very narrow and place d obliquely the ex , ,
ternal angles being the highest ; the nose is sm all but has not ,
the flattened appearance o f th at fe a t ur e in the ne gro ; th e
nostrils circular and divergent ; the mouth in general well
,
shaped : th e hair harsh lank and black T hose who reside , ,
.
in the warmest climate do not acquire the deep hue o f the

negro or Hindo o ; n o r do s uch as live in the coldest coun
tries eve r ac quire th e clear bloom o f the E u r o p e a n ] L
On p ublic days days o f worship and when vi siting it is a n

, , ,
obj ect wi th them to put on the appearance o f neatness in their

p ersons and apparel T he women are usually dressed in .
View s of th e C o s tum es an d P ec u iarities l o f all N ation s.
1 As'
i atic R esear ch es .
432 U NIVER S AL T R A VE LLE R .
B IRMA N EM P IR E .
lo n g, loose white cot to n gowns wi th petticoats o f cotton cot ~

ton and si or silk o f vari co l ored stripes T he men we a r
,
-
.
gowns a little simil r to those o f the women with cotton o f

.
silk plaid cloth decently wrapped around their loins a n d ha n g ,

ing in front below the knees T he women wear their h ai r .
colle cted into a knot on the back part o f the head wh il e th e ,

men twist their s into a s piral form upon the top e n c ir c lin th e ,
tr
head either wit h a checkered or a white mu slin kerchie f fold , ,
ed to a narrow width T he men commonly tatto o themselv e s

.
wi th various figures upon the thighs the abdomen and t h e , ,

loins T he shoes o f both sexes protect only the sole o f t h e
.
foot having two loops into which t h e great toe and the other
, ,
four are inserted ; they are manu factur ed o f wood or hid e s ,
.
T he women to render themse lves more attractive rub thei r

, ,
faces w i th a fine powder m ade o f the bark o f a species o f ,
s andal highly o dori ferous and sometimes color with a beau ~ , ,
ti ful red the nails o f their fingers and toes
,
.
bamboo o f which
I n th e co ns tr uc ti o n of th ei r d w elli n g h ou s es , ,
there are several sp ecies and in great abundance is the prin , ,
c ip al and in many in s tances the only material used Holes , ,
.
,
,
two or three feet deep in the earth receive the posts which , ,
are m o r e or fewer according to the size o f the houses Ma ts .
,
made o f split bambo o s form the outside covering inside par
, ,
titi o n s a n d someti m es the floor But commonly the l atter is

made by splitting the material into qu arters laying them down
.
,
in a se r ies and tying them to the transverse poles with split
ratta ns L eaves o f the Nipah tree called here d nc e compose
.
,
a ,
the roo f ; and a house not positively uncom for table and s u fii ,
c ie n tly capacious fo r a small family is constructed at the mod ,
c rate expense o f thirty or forty rupees Men o f high ra nk .
and ample means build their houses in the same form with
posts o f teak ; the sides partitions and floors are boards o f
, ,
the same wood and the roo f is made either o f leaves or o f
,
flat tiles T hese tiles are burnt like bricks each about eight
.
,
inches long five broad and nearly one thick jutting over at
, , ,
the h e ad a b out an inch by which they retai n their position s
,
upon the ra ft ers T hey are laid double the l o wer edges of
.
,
one se ries proj ecting over and lying upon the heads o f the next
lower series ; thus forming a de fence fr om wind and rain and ,
pre s e n ting a good degree o f secu ri ty from ex terior fires .
T he monasteries are built in the same manner h aving two or ,

three roo fs elevated one above anot her and in many ln ,
stan c e s their cornices angles and eaves ornamented w ith
, , ,
carved work o f flowers fi gures o f elephants o f pries ts and
, , ,
o f other forms which have no existence b u t in the superstition
o f the people T he posts o f the houses and monasterie s
.
,
b eing inse rted from two to fou r or fi v e feet in the ground are ,
s ubj ect to the depredations o f white ants and to rapid decay .
,
T he old palace at A m a r ap o o r a is bui lt o f teak : the roo fs piled
up o n each other to a great height and diminishin g in siz e as ,
qf N ew Zea la nder s . P 44 0
. .
N ew Zea la n d Hut . P 444

. .
M AN N E R S AN D C U S T O M S.
th ey ascend present t he ap p ear ance o f a l o fty spire T h e

,
.
e xterior and in terior p osts a r e covere d w ith goldlea f and the ,
whole exhibits a resplende nt obj ec t to the beho lder His pres .
e n t maje s ty Wh o a s cend e d the throne o f h is gr a nd father

,
a bout June 1 8 1 9 has since built a new pa la ce a t A va a fe w
, , ,
miles below the former c a pital o f which he too k poss es s ion

T h e pagod as are s olid mass e s o f m as on ~
,
a bout March 1 82 4 ,
.
r y varying in height o f a c o nical form covered with plaster

‘
, , ,
c omposed o f s and and lime and m any o f them with o l dle a
g ,
T he large pagoda s ituate d about a m ile and a h alf t o th e
N W o f Rang o on and calle d S h u n d a gon P a r a h is a splen
. .
,
-
,
d id a n d m agnifice nt mon ument o f heathen superstition and
idolatry A ccording to its history the foundation w a s Ia id
.
,
s oon a ft er t h e suppo s ed annihilatio n o f Gautama I f th i s b e
O
true it mu st h a ve ex isted fo r a period o f abo ut

, y ears .
S in c e its erection its siz e has b e en increa s e d by s u c ce s s we

s
F r o m th e a bo v e d es cr ip ti o n f
o th ei r d w elli ng h o u s es , the tran
s itio u is eas y to a correct in fe rence relative to the f u n i tu r e r
which they contain A fe w mats answer the purpose o f beds .

,
c ouches chai rs and tables and two or three wooden p lates
, , ,
o f B irman m a n u facture or o f coarse ea r thenware imported
, ,
form the bre ak fast and dinner s ervice A small box or tw o .
,
o r as many b a ske ts conta in the wardrobe o f the family , .
T hose however wh o h ave the m e an s i n d ulge themselves in

, , ,
‘
the use o f a bedstead A lthough i n their hous es and pers ons .

, ,
the appe arance o f cleanlines s is not very striking yet in this , ,
respect they a r e on a par wi th the ir western neighbors But
, .
this is not s aying much in their favor ; they certainly do not

e xhibit pa rtic ularly in their houses any special regard to
, ,
neatnes s ; no r on th e other hand can they be considered a s
, ,
ina ttentive to personal appe arance Both sex es enj oy the .
c om fort o f fr equent bathing T hey a r e m uch ad dicted to the .
p ractice o f chewing betel and in the disposition of t h e saliv a ,

they are not particularly nice T he more respectable cl a s s .
a ccommodate themsel ve s with i d a nn i es and betel boxes

p g
-
,
the bearers o f which are in c o ns tant atte ndance T hese m ate .
rials are o f gold silver or les s valuab le me tal a c co rding to the

, , ,
rank or circumstances o f tho se who us e them T hey univer .
s ally anoint the head with oil ; and as the hair is permitted to
gro w to i t s n at ural length and u en S I ty w ith o u t the fre quen t
.
,
‘
a pplication o f a c o mb a convenient situation is a fforded fo r

,
the accommodation o f vermin ; and as the Birman reli io n

prohibits the destruction o f li fe the ir pro p a gatio n is s e l om ,
interrup te d except by casualties
, .
I n t h e m a n a g eme n t f
o i n t er n a l h o us eh o ld f
a a ir s ,
takes the principal s hare oes hersel to the market or . S he g f ,
directs p urch a ses to be made and superintends the cooking , ,
o r do e s it wit h her o wn hand s A s o pportunity pre s ents , s h e .
37
434 U NIVER S A L T RAVELLE R .
B IRM AN EMP IRE .
br ingsin her contribution to th e dome s tic e s tablishment b y ,

s pi nni ng weaving tra fficking in bazar articles or by keeping
, , ,
a shop an d v en ding merchandi s e In conducting the e n er a l
family c oncerns she is by no means excluded ; her ju d
.
,
gmen t
is con s ulted given with per fect fre edom and s eldom entirely
, ,
disreg a rded T he female bra n ches o f the family are n o t r e

.
cluses here neithe r are they re s erved or shy in their manners

,
they form a co n stituent part o f dom e stic and public society .
T hey esteem it happy to b ecome moth e rs but con s ider th e ,

.
b irth o f a son as a more fortunate event than that o f a daughte r .
T hey in general nurse their children till they arrive at the age
o f three o r flour A s they are s eldom blessed with a numer “
.
o u s pr o geny the increa s e o f p opulation i s slo w

, T h e wi fe o f .
a j udge or govern o r is o ft en seen at h i s side assisting in the ,

d ecision o f causes ; and the w ives o f viceroys and other high
o fficers are o ften permitted to h old their own c o u rt s an d de ,
cid e independently on petitions presented to them Women
.
o f all ranks enj oy a high degree o f freedom appear abroad ,

unve il ed whenever they c hoose ornam ented according to the ,
taste and fa s hion o f the country and add zest to public scene s ,
o f amusement b y their presence and gayety .
f
I n th e f or m a ti on o t h ere is
th eir ma t r i mon i a l con n ex i on s ,
generally an a p p r O p r i ate pre face o f personal acquaintance and
plighted l o v e In the ceremony o f m arriage little expense is
.
i ncurred either o f time or money A feast 0 good things a o

cording to the ability o f the bridegroom is prepared in w hich
.
, ,
the assembled family connexions participate T he married .
pair taste a mixture o f the tea lea f steeped in oil (which is the -
,
form o f sealing all contracts ) eat together from the same plate , ,
and exchanging their reciprocal pro mises they twain are
,
m ade one fl esh U n fo rtunately however { h r the perpetuity
.
, ,
o f conjugal felicity in no country perhaps is the marriage

, , ,
contract regarded with so little respect or maintained with so ,
little propriety as in B ir m a h No disgrace is attached to a
,
.
divorced hu s band or wi fe S li ht o ccasions originate verbal .
abuse an d the s e quarrel s are 0 en protracted till both parties

seek that remedy which i s to be found in their countr y in any , ,
c o mm o n court o f justice Polygamy in not only allowe d but .
,
aboun ds in this count r y Money is not o ffered to obtain a .
female a s a wi fe but fo r the purchase o f bondmaids a s con

,
c u b in e s
a
. I f a c oncubine o f this sort wishes to be r eleased the
.
, ,
term s o f her depart ure are made easy A high sense o f .
female chastity not being prevalent th e consequences are ,

obvious T he mal e s ex conceive them s elves by nature
.
,
both phy s ically and mentally the supe rior ; hence are seen ,
lordships in the one sex and subj ection in the other A ,
.
b rother exerci s es o ver a sister and a husband over a wi fe , ,

c ontrol at pleas ure and applies i f need require the shoe t h e
rod the foot the palm o f the hand or even the point o f the
, , ,
, , ,
elb o w to c o rr ec t th e forw ar dne s s or ob s tin a cy o f t h e we ak e r
,
m U N IVER S A L T RA VE LL E R .
N EW H O LL AN D .
ments ; and could the ir public c h ar a c te r b e fo rmed in a dif

fo rent mo ul d fl o m t h a t in whi ch their system o f g o vernmen t
has already cast it they w o u l d b e by no mean s des tit ute o f
,
’
thos e el em en tary p rinciples whic h c o mbi n e to form the h ap

p in e s s o f civ ilize d s oc ie ty .
Th ei r are c o n d u cte d with de c en cy T h e

f un er a l s olem ni ti es .
m anner o f di s p o s ing o f the dead is eithe r by incineration or

burial : t h e fii r m er i s esteemed the mos t ho n o rable T h e .
corp se is enclosed in a co ffin or na m e n ted wi th goldl ea f o r ,

otherwise according to the means o f the friends o f the de
,
ceased a n d foll owed b y the mou r ners dressed in white is
,
.
,
b orne to the pub lic p lace o f interm e nt (which is without th e -
,
city or town ) the procession be in g us ually prec eded by th e
,
music o f wind in s tru m ents a nd drums and the presents in ,
tended fo r th e prie s t s wh o ma y b e in v ited on the occasion .
T h e se presents usually consi st o f p ieces o f cotton cloth s u ,

gar cane and fruits o f various kinds On their arrival at th e
,
.
place o f incineration fuel is place d unde r the co ffi n the mov e

, ,
able ornaments b ei n g fi r st taken away ; and th e corpse is co ri
s umed a fter whi ch the bo ne s are interred
,
In fants and crimi .
n ai ls are buried as al s o the poo r e s t part o f the communi ty

,
.
A ll funeral processi o ns must p as s o ut o f the city by a par

ti c ul a r gate call e d the funeral gate ; and no corpse must b e
,
carried towards a ci or town where the governors usually
reside The banks 0 th e Irra w a ddy a r e n o t sel e cted fo r th e
.
p er formanc e o f funeral obs equies like th e ba nks o f the Gan ,

ges : neither are it s waters regarded as possessi n g any sacre d
qualities nor are they in the lea s t degr e e the obj ect o f super
,
s titi o u s reverence .
*
H N EW . HOLLA N D .
T his i s the largest islan d on the globe and on a cco u nt o f ,

its great extent has by some g e ographe rs b een s tyle d a conti
,
nent It is situated in the s outh P aci fi c ocean Lat 1 1 to 4 9
.
,
.
,
Lon 1 1 0 to 1 5 3 E T h e e ast ern s ide which be longs to G rea t
. .
,
Britai n i s calle d N ew S cu ff» Wa les In this d i strict the E n g
,
.
lish have a valuable and thriving col o ny formed in the firs t , ,

i nst anc e by the exiled felons ; but o f late y ears t h e settlemen t
, ,
has been increased and improved b y a number o f vo luntary
T he a bor ig in es o f this country w h o d wel l in the vicinity o f ,

the E uropean settlements are s till in a state o f nature ; and , ,
alth o ugh forty ye ar s have elapsed since their first interc o u r se
0 Modern Tr avelle r
U N IVER S AL T RAVELLE R . 437
A BO RI G IN ES .
wi th the British colonists they are s o fa r from having b ee n ,

benefited by the acquaintance th at men and women are to b e ,
s een in the str e ets o f the colo nial towns in a c o mp l ete s ta te o f ,
n udi ty T his is th e more s urpris ing as th e y a re ver y inge
.
,
nio n s and are p o ss e s se d o f accura te o b s erva tio n and a quic k
, ,
p erception In th ei r persons th ey are more di min uti v e and

.
,
.
s lighter made than E u ropea ns ; in general they cannot be ,

s aid to be well shape d yet ins tanc es o f absolut e d e fii r m ity are
,
very rare am o ng them Their color is no t in all c as es th e .
s ame ; s ome a r e n ea rly a s bla ck as th e A frica n n egro ; o th e r s

a r e o f th e coppe r or Malay h ue Their hair is n e r ally .
,
bla ck but s ometimes o f a r e d d is h ca s t A high o r eh ea d
,
’
.
,
with prominent overhanging eyebrows gives them an air o f ,
r esolute dignity whi ch recom mends them in s pi te o f th eir
, ,
negro no se thick lips a n d wide mouth T h eir hands and fe d :
, ,
.
a r e small ; their eyes fi i ll black and piercing ; the tone o f their

,
voice is loud but not harsh T he women are proportionably
,
.
s maller th a n the men ; and that feminine delicacy which i s

found among white people may be traced upon their sable
cheeks In commo n with all other nations these
. ple e u ,
d e a v o r to heigh ten their pers ona l a ttractions by a v e n tit io us ,
e mbellishments T hey cannot indee d do this by the finery
.
, ,
o f clothing fo r they are naked ; b u t they thrust a s tick or a
, ,
bone th rough the septum o f the nose decorate their hair wi th
, ,
s hark s teeth and scari fy their bodies ; the charm s o f which
‘
,
a r e supposed to increas e in pro p ortion to the number and m a
g
n itu d e o f the seams by which they are distingui shed Bo th .
s exes be s mear their bodies with di fferent colors : but re d and

white are most in us e T he musc ular force o f these peo ple is
.
n o t gr e at ; but the pliancy o f the ir limbs render s them active .
T hose who live on the s ea co as t depend o n fish fo r their sub «
s istence ; i f a dead whale be cast on shore they fl oc k to it in ,
grea t numbers and feast sumptuo u sly till the bones are well
,
picked T heir substi tute fo r bread is a species o f fer n which
.
, ,
being ro asted and pounded between two stone s is mixed with
,
fish and constitutes the chie f part o f their fo o
,
T ho se wh o
dwell in the woods maintain a hal f famished li fe by the chase
,
-
,
or by ensnaring the beasts o f the fore sts Their habitations .
are o f the rudest construction T h e b ut o f the woodman is .
m ade o f the bark o f a single tr ee bent in the middle and , ,

placed on its two ends upon the ground a ffordi ng shel ter o n ly ,
to one miserable tenant On the s e a coast the huts are lar er .
, ,
and form e d o f pieces o f bark from se veral trees put toge er ,

in the form o f an o ven lar ?b e enough to contain s ix or seve n
,
'
people A t the entrance o f this b u t rather within than wi th

.
,
out the fire is made ; s o that the in terior is always smok e
,
dried and fil thy .
T he New Hollanders are supposed to acknowledge the ex

is te n c e o f a S upreme Power ; an d their dread o f spirits in di
c ates their belie f in a future s tate I f asked where their de .
ceas ed friends are they always point to the s ky Th ey

,
.
7k
37
438 U NIVER S AL T RAVE L L E R
N EW H O LL AN D .
believe that pa r ticu lar as pe cts of the heavenly b o di s ind i a te “
e c
good or evil consequences to themselves or friends A n d .
when they see the lightning gla r e and hear the th u nder roll ,
they rush out and d e p recate destru ction but d o n o t attem p t ,

t o fle e
. T hey h ave a dance and s ong appropriate d to suc h
a w ful oc c asions consisti n g o f wil d and uncouth n o xs e s a n d
,
g estures .
Nearly a ll the native s h av e a pe c uliar tal ent fo r mi m icry ;

the singularities o f the colonists are represented by them with
great correctness T hey are also great p r o fi c ie n t s in the v ul
.
ar language o f the convicts and in case o f any quarrel a r e

gy no me ans uneq ual to the m in the exchange o f abuse B ut .
,
this is the s u m total o f their acquisitions from E uropean inter

course T hey are still as unprotected as ever against the i n
.
.
clemency o f the weather and equally unpr o vided fo r the vic is ,

v
s itu d e s o f plenty and famine T h e fact is they hate lab o r .

, ,
and place thei r happiness in listle s s inaction : h e n ce the arts

o f civilized li fe which require ap p lication and industry h av e
, ,
n o c h arms fo r the indolent New Hollander .
Intrepidity is a marked feature in their character ; but they

are al s o vola tile fickle and passionate T hey are s ud den in
, ,
-
.
“
quarrel yet not implacable in their desire o f reve n ge When

,
.
a person is slain either in a p itched battle or in o n e o f those

, ,
h asty quarrels which frequ e ntly arise among them t h e s u r v i
, ,
vor i s obliged to stand in his own de fence fo r a certain num ,
b e r o f s pears to be thrown at him by the friends or relatives o f
the deceased ; if he esc ape alive the matter ends ; b u t s h o uld ,
'
h e be killed h is antagoni s t must undergo a similar ordeal

,
.
T heir honesty when tempted by novelty is not un im p e a c h a

, ,
ble ; but among themselve s there is good reas o n to believe
that fe w breaches o f this virtue occur T hey pay no regard .
to tr uth w h e n their interest seems to lead them to dissimulate

,
.
Like mo st other s avages their sight and heari ng are so acute , ,

that they can di st inguish obj ects which wo uld totally e scape a
E u r opean In their c onflicts with each other they use spear s
.
,
and shields ; the former are made o f the bulrush and pointed ,
with hard wood ; the latter are only o f bark ; and the spear s
a r e thrown with such force as frequ ently to pierce them .
Dexterity in throwing a n d parrying the spear is considered a s

the hi ghest acquirement ; children o f both se x es practise it
from the time they are able to throw a rush ; and they become
s uch sure marksmen that they will bring down a bird not , ,
larger th an a pige o n at the distanc e o f thirty yards I f a
, .
s pear drop from them when engaged in a contest they do ,

not stop to p ick it up but hook it between the ir toes and li ft
, ,
i t till it m eet the hand ; thus the eye is never diverted fr o m
th e fo e .
Their canoes composed o f the bark o f trees tied to ethe r

, ,
19 small splinters are miserable vehicles usually hal till ed
, ,
With w at e r ; and nothing but the n atural buoyancy o f the m a
ter i als could p revent them from sinking In th iamr az y kin d .
U NIVER S AL T RAVE L LER .
N EW Z E A L AN D .
p e ans was marked by independence and resistance T h ey .
gave blow fo r blow T hey did not stand still to be slaugh

.
te r e d like the Peruvians by the S paniards , but they tried the

strength o f the club against the flash o f the mus ket The fo l .
lowing incident, which occurred the s e c o rfd day a ft er C ook s’
first arrival at the Island w ill serve to show their bold and ,
daring spirit B ein g in want o f fresh water C ook had set o ut
.
,
with his boats well manned to m ake the circuit o f a bay in
search fo r some On their way they met a fishing canoe com
.
ing in from the sea having seven people on board four men
, ,
and three boys A s soon as the New Zealanders perceived
.
-
the boats which they did not do till they were almost in the
,
midst o f them they took to their paddles and plied them s o
, .
,
bris kly that they would actually h ave e ffected their escape ,
had not Cook ordered a musket to be fired over their heads ,
thinking this would prob ably make them surrender B u t u n .
fortunately it had n o t that e ffect ; fo r although on th e discharge ,

o f the piece they imm ediately ceased pad d ling and began to ,
,
strip it was only that unequal as was the contest they might
, , ,
meet and fight their assailants T hey themselves indeed as .
, ,
s oon as the boat came up commenced the attack with their ,

paddles and what other weapo n s they had with them ; and so
,
obstinate was the resistance they made that the s c u ffl e did not
end till the four men were killed a circumstance which C ook ,
a fterwards greatly regretted On this the boys the eldest o f .
, ,
whom was about nineteen and the youngest about eleve n

instantly leaped into the water but even here they continue d
,
,
their resistance by every means in their power until they were ,
at last taken up and placed in the boat .
T h e N ew Zea la n d er s many ar e i n g en er a l a t a ll r a ce o f m en ,
o f the individuals belon gi ng to the upper classes being six feet
high and upwards T hey are also described as strong active
.
, ,
and almost uni formly well shaped T heir hair is commonly .
straight but sometimes curly Crozet S ays he saw a fe w o f

,
.
them with red hair C ook describes the females as fa r from

.
attractive ; but other observers give a more flattering account

o f them . Mr S avage fo r example assures us that their fe a
.
, ,
.
tures are re gular and pleasing ; and he seems to have been .
much s truck by their long black hair and dark penetrating ,

eyes as well as their well formed figure the interesting cast o f -
the cou nten ance and the sweet tone o f their V O i c e C aptain
,
.
,
C ru is e s testimo n y is almost equally favorable
’
They are dis .
tin gu i s h e d from each other by a very considerable diversi ty

‘
in the shades o f what may be called the common hue C roze t . .
“
divides them into three classes Whites browns and blacks ” .
, , ,
T he whites he considers the original inhabitants o f the coun

try the browns and blacks to be foreign admixtures r e c e iv , ,
ed from the neighboring continent o f N e w Holland Whether .
Crozet be correct or not it is cer tain t h at in some parts o f ,

UN IVE R S A L T RAVELLER . 44 1
DR ES S é F O OD .
N ew Zealand the natives are much fairer than in other s

,
.
C ook remarks in the account o f his first voyage that the peo
, ,
ple about the B ay o f Islands seemed darker than those he had
seen farther to the south ; and the ir color generally is a ft er
wards described a s‘v a r yin g fr om a pretty deep black to a yel
lowish or olive tinge .
Th e d r es s f is
o exactly the same and
th e two s ex es consists ,
o f an inner mat or t unic fastened by a girdle round their ,
waists and an upper cloak whi ch is made o f very coarse
, ,
materials fo r ord inary wear ; but is o f a much finer fabric and “
,
o ften indeed elaborately ornamented when intended fo r o c
, , ,
casions o f display Both these articles o f atti re are always
.
made o f the native flax T he New Zealanders we ar no c o v .

'
ering either fo r the head or feet the feathers with whi ch both
'
,
se x es ornamented the head being excepted T he C hie fta in .
decorates his head with plumes and is doubtless proud o f the ,

gra ce ful distinction both as a token o f his ra n k and adding ele
, ,
gance and majesty to his fi gure His dress mantle is als o .
elaborately embroidered ; and both sexes o ften wear curi ously

carved combs in their hair, and clusters o f ornaments sus
pended from their ears and round their necks T he m en ,
.
,
indeed as well a s the women are fond o f dress and show all
, ,
the vanity o f children whe n they are more gayly arrayed than
,
usual T o a chie f Mr Nic h olas relates who came o n board

.
,
.
,
the A ctive while she was passing the North C ape on her way
, ,
to the B a y o f Islands Mr Marsden presented a piece o f Indi a
,
.
print which quite transported him with delight ; he gazed on

,
the fi gures with the most vivid a m a z em en and throwing it

over his shoulders strutted about the dec with his whole
,
s oul absorbed in his splendid bedizenment On a subsequent .
occasion Mr N icholas being on shore and engaged in m a

,
.
,
king some purchases from the natives was assailed by an old ,
man who o ffered him a large mat fo r his coat T he proposed
,
.
e x change having been agreed to was immediately made and , ,

our author having wrapped himsel f up in the New Zealand
garment the other put on the coat No sooner h ad he got it
,
.
adjusted on his perso n than the whole being o f the savage ,

seemed to have undergone a change instead o f a figure bent
with age and a grave and c ircumspect demeanor he now ex
h ib ite d the erect port o f a man in the spring o f li fe and at the
,
,
same time a sprightliness and a ffec ted ease and fr ivolity o f ,
manner whic h were meant to be qui te captivating and were
,
.
,
certainly indescribably ludicrous His countrymen were at .
fir st so m u ch amazed at his su d den metamorphosis that they ,

seemed to doubt his identity ; but they soon felt the full absur d
i ty o f the spectacle he exhibited and greeted him with peal s
,
o f l a ughter .
T he food upon wh ich the New Zealanders principally live ,

is the root o f the f er n p la n t which grows all over the coun ,
N E W ZE A L AN D .
tr y . T his root sometimes swallowed entirely and so me

*
, ,
.
times only masticated and the fibres rej ected after the jui c e ,
has been extracte d serves the New Zealanders not o nl y fo r
,
bread but even occasionally fo r a meal by itsel f When fish are
,
.
used they do not appear as in many other countries to be eaten

raw but are always cooked either by being fix ed upon a stick
, ,
, ,
s tuck in the ground and so exposed to the fire or by being , ,
folded in green leaves and then laid between heated stones to ,
bake But little o f any other animal food is consumed birds
.
,
being killed chiefly fo r their feathers and pigs being produced ,
on days o f special festi vi ty T he first pigs were le ft in New .
Zealand by C aptain C ook who made many attempts to stock ,

the co untry both with this and other use ful animals most o f ,
whom however were so much neglected that they soon d is a p
peare C ook l ikewise as has already been mentioned intro , ,
d u c e d the potato i nto New Zealand and that valuable root ,
appears to be now pretty generally cul tivated througho u t the
northern island T he only agricul tural implements however
.
, ,
which the natives possess are o f the rudest description ; that ,
w ith which they dig their potatoes being merely a wooden
pole with a cross bar o f the same material fixed to it about
,
-
,
three feet from the ground Mr Marsden s aw the w ives o f . .
several o f the chie f toiling hard in th e fields with no better

s
,
spade than this ; among others the head w i fe o f the great ,
S h u n gh ie who although quite bl ind appeared to dig the
, , ,
ground he s ays a s fast as those who had their sight and as
, , ,
well first pulling up the weeds as she went along with her
,
’
hands then setting her feet upon them th at she m i ght kno w
,
where they were ; an d finally a fter she had broken the soil , ,
th rowing the mould over the we eds with her hands .
T he N e w Zealanders make only two meal s in a day one in ,

the morning and another at sun set ; but their voracity wh en
, ,
they do eat, is o ften very great In consequence o f thi s hab i t .
o f consum i ng an extraordinary quantity o f food a New Ze a ,
lander with all his powers o f endurance in other respects s u f

fers dread fully when he has not his usual means o f sat is fyin g
,
his hunger One o f the strongest prejudices o f the New Ze a

.
landers is an aversion to be where any article o f food is sus

,
pended over their heads and on this account they never per
mit any thing eatable to be brought within their huts, but take
all their meals out o f doors in an open space adj oini ng to the ,
house which has been called by some w riters the kitchen it
_
, ,
being there that the meal is cooked as well as eaten Crozet .
says that every one o f these kitchens has in it a cooking hole

, ,
dug in the ground o f about two feet in diameter and between
, ,
one and two deep E ven when the natives are c on fi ned to
.
their be ds by sickness and it may be at the point o f dea th , , ,
T h e fer n r oo t s are fi rs t r o as t ed, an d after war ds b eing aid up on a s t on l

are b eat w ith a p iec e o f w oo d, unti l t h ey b eco m e so ft ike do ugh Wh en col l .
ag ain. h owever. it b ecom es h ard, an d s nap s l i e h ard ginger b read k .

N EW Z E A LA N D .
b uried , was taken up and devoured S ome o f the o fficers hap .
pening to pass through the village while the natives were enga ,
ged at this feast observed them to th r o w th e ir mats over some
,
obj ect around which they were sitting when they s a w the stran ,
gers appro ach A lthough the gentlemen walk ed on wi tho ut
.
appearing to notice what they had seen a common sailor who ,

a fterwards c a m e up was not only an eye witness o f the ir eating
,
-
the body but was invited to partake o f th e r ep a s t Mr M ars ‘
den in l ike manner assures us in the j ournal o f his first visit

.
, , ,
to the country t hat th e natives did not appear to have a n y idea

,
that cannibalism was an unnatural crime ; and when he ex
presse d to them his abhorrence o f the practice they merely ,
rem arked that it had always been the custom with them to eat
the ir e n emies T o the s ame e ffect is the testimony o f John
.
Ruther for d an E nglishman who a fter ten years detention

, ,
among the inhabitants o f New Zealand re turned to E ngland ,
in the early part o f 1 828 In the course o f his j ourney into the .
interior he was taken to the house o f a chie f whose name was

,
A im y Here he observes a pig was killed from which we
'
.
, , ,
supped ; and a fterwards seating ourselves around the fire we
, ,
amused ourselves by listening to several o f the women singing .
In t h e mean time a s la v e gi r l wa ki lled and put into a hole in

'
,
s ,
the earth to r o a s t in order to furnish the feast the following day ,

in honor o f the c il ie f s return home We slept that night in the
’
.
chie f s house but the next morning a num ber o f the natives
’
were set to work to build us one fo r ourselves o f the same ,
form wi th that in which the chie f lived and nearly the same ,
size In the course o f this day many other chie fs arrived at
.
,
the village accompanied by their families and slaves to wel
, ,
come A i m y home which they did in their usual m anner S ome

,
.
o f them brought with them a quantity o f watermelo n s wh i ch ,
they gave to me and my comrade A t last they all seated .
themselves upon the ground to have their feast several large

—
pigs together with some scores o f baskets o f potatoes tava
, , ,
and watermelons h aving first been brought forward by ,
A i m y s people T he pigs a fter being dro wned in the r i ver
.
’
.
,
and dressed had been laid to roast beside the potatoes
,
.
When these were eaten the fi r e that had been made the n i ght ,
be fore was opened and the b ody o f the slave girl was taken
out o f it which they next proceeded to feast upon i n the
.
,
eagerest manner We were not asked to partake o f i t fo r
. ,
A im y knew that we had r e fii s e d to eat human flesh be fore .
A fte r the feast was over t h e fragments w er e c o lle c te d and

‘
, ,
carried home by the slaves o f the di fler ent ch i e fs accord ing

o
to the custom which is al w ays observed on such occas i on s

,
in New Zealand ;
Th a li a bi tat i on s , the common peopleor r a th er th e h a ts o f ,

are described as very wretched and little better than sheds ,
.
Bu t Mr Nicholas mentions that those which he saw i n th e

.
,
no rthern part o f the country h a d uni formly well culti vated lit
N ew—
Zea la nd P r ies t
. P 44 8
. .
446 U NIVER S AL T RAVEL L ER .
N E W ZE AL AN D .
d o wn by fi v e or six men while two others commenced th e ,

o pera tion o f tattooing us Having taken a piece o f charcoa
a n d rubbed it upon a stone with a little water u ntil they ha l
.
i
p roduced a thickish liquid they then dipped into it an in s tr u ,
m ent made o f bone h aving a sharp edge like a chisel a n d
, ,
s h aped in the fashion o f a garden hoe and imme di ately a
p ,
p lied to the skin striking it twice or thrice with a small piece

,
o f wood T his m ade it cut into the flesh as a kni fe would
.
h ave done and caused a good deal o f blood to flow] whic h

,
they kept wiping o ff w ith the side o f the hand to see if the im
pression wa s su ffi ciently clear When it was no they ap .
p e d th e bone the second time to the same place

li hey em
~
.
p loyed, however various instruments in the course o f the

,
O perat i on : one which they sometimes used being made o f a
shark s tooth and another having teeth like a saw T hey had
’
,
.
them also o f d i fferent sizes to suit the di fferent parts o f the ,

work While I was undergoing this operation although the
.
,
ain was most acute I never even moved or uttered a sound ;
put my comrades moaned dread fully A lthough the O pera .
tors were very quick and dexterou s I was four hours under ,
their hands ; and during the operatio n Aim y s eldest d au gh ’
ter several times wiped the blood from my face with som e
d r e s s e d fl ax
'
A ft er it was over she led me to the river

.
, ,
that I mi ght was h mysel f, (fo r it h a d m a d e me completely '
blind ) a n cl then conducted me to a great fire T hey now r e

,
.
turned u s all o ur clothes with the exception o f our shirts , ,

which the wo men kept fo r thems elves wearing them as we , ,
observed with the fronts behind We were now not only tat
,
.
t o o e d but wh at they c alled t a boo ed the meaning o f which is

, ,
m ade sacred or forbidden to touch any provisions o f any kin
,
‘
with our h ands T his state o f things lasted fo r three d ays

.
,
during which time we were fe d by the daughters o f the chie fs ,
with the s ame victuals and out o f the same basket as the , ,
chie fs themselves and the persons who had tattooed us In
,
.
three days the swelling which had been produced by the oper
,
ation had greatly su b sided and I began to recover my sight ,
but it was six weeks be fore I w a s completely well I had no
'
medical assistance o f any kind duri n g my illness but A im y s ’
two daughters were very attentive to me and would frequently ,

sit beside me and talk to me in their langu a ge o f which a s
, ,
”
yet h o vve v er I did not understand much
, ,
.
Ruther ford states th a t in the part o f the country where he

was the men were commonly tattooed on their face hips and
, , ,
body and some as low as the heel None were allowed to be

,
.
tattooed on the forehead chin a n d upper lip except the very , , ,
g reatest amon the chie fs T he priests h ave only a small

.
square patch 0 tattooing over the right eye The i r stai ns al

.
.
,
though their brilliancy may perhaps decay with time bei ng thu s ,
fi xed in the flesh ar e o f course i ndelible just as much a a tb e

,
m arks o f a similar nature which s ail ors frequently make on t h ei r

a rms and breas ts by i ntroducin gg unpowder u nder the ski n .
‘
U NIVER S AL T RAVELLER . 447
R E LI G I O N .
The New Zealanders like many other s avages are also in , ,

the habit o f anointing themselves with a mixt ure o f greas e
and red ochre T his sort o f rouge is very much“
. used by th e
“ ”
women and being generally s ays Cook fresh and ric h
, , .
,
upon their cheeks and foreheads was easily trans ferred to th e ,
noses o f those who thought fit to salute them ; and that they
were not wholly averse to such familia rity the noses o f sev ,
”
eral o f our people strongly testified T he faces o f m en he .
,
adds were not s o genera lly painted ; yet we s aw one whose
, ,
whole body a n d even his garments were ru bbed over W i th
, ,
dry o chre o f which he kept a piece constantly in his h and a n d
, ,
was every minute renewi ng the decorati on in one p art or
ano ther where he supposed it was become deficient
,
.
T h e N ew Zea l a n d er s h a v e or temples amon m or a l s

them yet they are not without some noti ons o f religion an g
no
,
in many particulars they are rem arkably superstitious For .
instance they think that if they w ere to allow a fire to be

,
lighted under a shed where there are no provisions their god , ,
would kill them T hey have m any supersti tions also with .
, ,
regard to cutt in g their hair Cook in the account o f h is .
,
third voyage speaks o f a young man he had taken o n
,
board the ship and who having one day per formed this cer e
, ,
mony could not be prevailed upon to eat a morsel ti ll n igh t
, ,
“
insisting that the A tu a would most certainly kill him i f h e ,
”
di d .Cook adds that the hair thus cut is collected and fr e ,
quently tied to the branches o f the trees near the villages A o .
co rding to one o f the missionaries it is s ometimes buried in a

s ec r e t p la c e .
Mr Marsden on a s kin g a New Zealander what he con

.
,
c eiv e d A tu a to be was answered an immortal shadow ”
, .
,
A lthough possessed o f the attributes o f immortality omni ,
resence invisibility and su p reme power he is universally
peliev e d to be in disposition merely a vindictive demon When
, , ,
.
one o f the missionaries had one day bee n telling a number o f

them o f the infinite goodness o f God they asked h im if he ,
was not j oking with them T hey believe that whene ver any .
,
p erson is sick his illness is occasioned by

,
the A t u a in the ,
s hape o f a lizard preying upon his entra ils ; and according
, ,
"
ly in such cases they o ften address the most horrid impreca
, ,
tions and curses to the invisible cannibal in the hope o f there ,
-
by frightening him away T hey imagine that at other time s .
he amuses him s el f in entangling their nets and o versetting ,

t heir canoes .
T he white man s God the b elieve to be altogether a di ffer ’
e n t being fi o m their o w n tu a Mr Marsden in one o f h is

'
. .
,
letters relates a convers ation he h ad upon this subj ec t wi t h
,
s ome o f the chie f s sons who resided wi th him in New S outh
’
,
Wales When h e told them th at there was but one God an d
.
t hat o ur God was also theirs they asked him i f our G o d h a d ,
g i ve n t h e m any s wee t p ota to es ; an d c o ul d wit h di ffi culty b e

4 48 U NIVER S AL T RAVELLE R .
N E W ZE A L AN D .
m ade to see how one G o d should give these to the New Ze a

lander and not equally to the white m an ; or on the oth er ,
hand ow he shoul d h ave acted so partially as to give to the
,
white man only such possessions as c attle sheep and horses
, , , ,
w hich the New Z ealander as much required T he argument .
,
however u pon which they seem m ost to h ave rested was
, ,
But we are o f a di fferent color from you ; and i f one God
made u s both he would not have committed such a mistake
, ,
as to make use o f di fferent colors ” E ven one o f the chie fs .
,
w h o had been a great deal with Mr Marsden and was dispo .
,
sed to acknowledge the absurdity both o f the taboo and o f ,
m any o f his other n ative superstitions could not be brought to ,
admit that the same God who made the white man had also
m ade the New Z ealanders .
Besides the A tua or chie f god the N e w Zealanders have

, ,
numerous other subordinate divinities to whom they are in ,
the habit o f praying in all their emergencies T hey daily ,
.
adore the sun moon and stars When addressing the moon
, ,
.
,
they employ Mr S avage tells us a mourn ful song and seem
,
.
, ,
as full o f apprehension as o f devotion : whereas when pay ,
ing their adoration to the rising sun the arm s are sp read , ,
an d the head bo w ed with the appearance o f much j oy in
,
their countena n ces accompanied with a de gree o f elegant
,
and reverential solemnity an d the song used upon the occa ,
sion is cheer ful .
T he priests or T ohungas as they are called are pers ons o f

, , ,
great importance and authori ty in New Zealand being es
teemed almost the keepers and rulers o f the gods theifi s elv e s .
Many o f the greatest o f the chie fs are also priests It is the .
priest who attends at the bedside o f the dying chi ef an d re gu ,

lates every part o f the treatment o f the p atient When the .
body o f a chie f who has been kil led in battle is to be eaten , ,

it is the priest who first gives the command fo r its being roast
ed T he first mouth fuls o f the flesh also being regarded as
.
, ,
the dues o f the gods are always eaten by the priest whose
, ,
aid is invoked to obtain relie f from heaven .
T he New Zealanders also consider all their priests as a s p e

cies o f sorcerers and believe that they have the power to take
,
the li ves o f whomsoever they choose by incantation Th e ,
.
most n oted p riest o f New Zealand s ome fe w years since w a s ,

T a m a n h e n a who was believed to have absolute command over
,
the winds a n d w a v e s He o ft en acted as a pilot as well as a
‘
.
,
priest and on one occasion b e accompanied Mr Marsden in a
,
.
c anoe to examine the entrance o f a river It was blowing quite .
fresh at the time but T a m a n h e n a assured him that he would

,
soon make both the w inds and waves fall For this purpose .
,
he began to speak in an angry and commanding tone to th e
gods the winds and the waves but like Baal o f old they heed
, , , ,
ed not the voice o f the voci ferating priest Captain C ruis e .
d uring his visit to New Zealand him sel f s a w T a m a n h en a an , ,

450 U N IVER S A L TRAVELLER .
N EW Z EA L AN D .
hooks and other implements

, fo r fishing which they make , of
bone are o f various form s
, .
R u th er o r d f ,
wh om w e h a v e h a d fr e wen t o cc a s o n i to quote ,
g ives the following account o f the s i c n es s d ea th a n d

f u n er a l , ,
o bs e u i es o f the mother o f A im
q y the chie f whose two d a u gh ,
ters he a fterwards married “A i m y and his family having .
go ne to a feast at another vill age a fe w miles distant from ,

ours my comrade and mysel f were le ft at home with nobody
, ,
but a fe w slaves and the chie f s m other an old woman who,
’
, ,
w a s s ic k and attended by a physician
, A physician in this .
country remains with his patien t s constantly both d a y and ,

night never leaving them till they recover or die in which lat
, ,
ter case he is brought be fore a court o f inq uiry composed o f
, ,
all the chie fs fo r many miles round During the absence o f .
the family at th e feast my comrade chanced to lend his kni fe ,
to a slave fo r him to cut some rushes with in order to repair

, ,
a h ouse ; and when this was done he received it back a ain
g .
S oon a fter he and I killed a pig from which we cut a portion

, ,
into sm all pieces and put them into our iron pot along with
, ,
s ome potatoes which we had also peeled with our knives
, .
When the potatoes were cooked the old woman who was sick ,
desired us to give her some which we did in the presence o f ,
the doctor and she ate them Next morning s he died whe n
,
.
,
th e c h ie f a n d the rest o f his family im mediately returned hom e .
T he corpse was first remove d to an unoccupied piece o f

ground in the centre o f the V illage and there placed with a ,
m at under it in a sitting position against a post bein covered
with another mat up to the chin T he head and g
, ,
ace wer e .
anointed with shark oil and a piece o f green flax was als o ,
tied round the head in which were stuck several white fea ,
t h e r s — the sort o f feathers whic h are here pre ferred to any
other T hey then constructed around the corpse an en o lo
.
, ,
’
sure o f twigs some thing like a bird s c age fo r the purpose o f

,
’
,
keeping the dogs pigs and children fro m it ; and these opera , ,
tions being over muskets continued to be occ asionally fired

,
during the remainder o f the day to the memory o f the old w o ,
man Meanwhile the chie fs and their families from miles

.
, ,
round were m aking their appearance in our village bringing

, ,
with them their slaves loa d ed with provisions O n the third ,

.
day a fter the death they all to the n umber o f some hundreds , , ,
knelt down around the corpse and having thrown o fl their ,
”
m ats proceeded to cry and cut themselves in the same m an

,
n e r as we h ad seen done on occasion o f the d i fferent chie fs

o f the villages through which we passed being welcomed
home A fter some time S pent in th i s ceremony they all s a t
.
,
down together to a great feast made o f their own provision , ,
which they had brou ht with them T he following morn i ng .

,
the men alone forme a circle round the d ead body armed ,
with spears muskets tomahawks and merys ; and the doc
, , ,
'
tor appeared walking b ackwards and forwards i n the mug

,
.
IVER S AL T RAVEL L ER
UN 45 1 .
F U N E R A L R I TE S .
B this time my companion and I had learned a goo d deal

y ,
o t their lan guage ; and as we stood liste n ing to what was said ,
we heard the doctor relate the particulars o f the old woman s ’
illness and death : a fter which the chie fs began to inquire very ,
closely into what she had eaten fo r the three d ays be fore she
expired A t last th e doctor having retired from the ring an
.
, ,
old chie f stepped forward with three or four white feathers ,

stuck in his h air ; and h aving walked several times up and
,
down in the ring addressed the meeting and s aid that i n his
'
, , ,
opinion the old wom an s death had been occasioned by her

,
’
h a ving eaten potatoes that had be en peeled with a white m an s ’
kni fe a fter it had been used fo r cutting rushes to repair a

h ouse ; on which account he thought that the white m an to ,
whom the kni fe belonged should be kille d which would be a ,
great honor con ferred upon the memory o f the dead wom an .
T o this propos al many o f the other chie fs expressed their as

sent and i t seemed about to be adopted by the court Mean
,
.
w hile my companion stood trembl ing and unable to speak

from fear ; I then went forward mysel f into the ring and tol d
, ,
,
them that i f the white man had done wrong in lending h is
,
kni fe to the slave he h ad d one so ignorantly fro m not kn ow
, ,
ing the custom o f th e country I ventured at the same time t o .
address mysel f to A i m y beseeching him to spare my sh i p ,

m ate s li fe ; but he continued t o keep his seat on the ground
’
,
mo urning the loss o f his mother without answering m e or , ,
seeming to take any notice o f w h at I said ; and wh i le I w as
yet speaking to him the chie f with the white feathers went ,
and struck my comrade on the head with a mery and killed ,
him A im y however would not allow him to be eaten though
.
, , ,
fo r what reason I could never learn T he slaves there fore .
, ,
h aving dug a grave fo r him he was interred a ft er my d ir ec ,
tions A s fo r the corpse o f the old wom an it was now wrap
.
,
ped up in several m ats and carried away by A i m y and the ,
doctor no person being allowed to follo w them I le a r n e d

,
.
,
h owever that they took her into a n eighboring wood and there
, ,
buried her A fter this the strangers all le ft our village and
.
,
re turned to their respective homes In about three months .
,
the body o f the woman was again taken up and c arried to ,
the river side where the bones were scraped and washed and
-
, ,
then enclosed in a box which had been prepared fo r that p u r
pose T he box was a fterwards fastened on the top o f a post
.
,
in the place where the bo d y first lay in state ; and a space o f
thir ty feet in circ u m ference being railed i n ar ound it ,
a wooden image was erected to signi fy that the ground was ,
tabooed or sacred and a s a warning that n o one should e n
, ,
ter the enclosure T his is the reg ular manner o f interme nt in
.
New Zealand fo r any one belonging to a chie f s family W hen ’

.
a slave dies a hole is dug and the body is thrown into it with
, ,
out any ceremony ; nor is it ever disinterred again or any ,

fi l r th er notice taken o f it T hey never eat any person who .
dies d sease or in the course o f nat ure

o f i .
” .
452 U NIVER S A L T RAVEL L ER .
N EW ZE A LAN D .
R u th erf or d h a s g iv en us th e f o llo w in g a c co un t o
f a N ew Zea
l a n d b a t t le E arly the next morning the enemy retreated to
.
the distance abou two miles from the river ; upon o b s er v

of t
ing which our party immediately threw o ff their mats and go t
, ,
u n d er arms T he two parties h ad altogether about two thou
.
sand muskets among them chiefly purchased from the E n

lish and A meric a n S outh S e a ships which touch at the islan%
,
.
We now crossed the river ; and having arrived on the opposite ,

side I took my station on a rising ground about a quarter o f
, ,
a mile distant from where our part y h alted so th at I had a ,
full view o f the engagement I was not mysel f required to .
fight but I lo aded my double barrelled gun a n d thus armed

,
-
, , ,
remained at m post my wi fe and the two slave girls having
s eated themse y
,
ves at my feet T he com m ander in chie f o f .
- -
each party now stepped forward a fe w yards and placing , ,

h i m s e lf i n front o f his troops commenced the war song When ,
-
.
this was ended both p arties danced a war dance singing at

,
-
,
the s ame time as loud as they could and brandishing their ,
weapons in the air Having finished their dance each party .
,
formed into a line two deep the women and boys stationing ,
themselves about ten yards to the rear T he two parties the n .
advanced to within about a hundred yards o f each other when ,

th ey fired o ff their muskets Few o f them put the musket to .
th e shoulder while firing it but merely held it at the ch arge ,

.
T hey only fired once and then threw their muskets behind ,
them when they were picked up by the women and boys d rew
, ,
their merys and tomahawks out o f their belts w hen the w a r , ,
song bein screamed by the whole o f them together in a man ,
ner most ismal to be heard the two parties rushed into close ,
c ombat T hey now took hold o f the hair o f each o t h er s h e a ds
.
’ ‘
with their le ft hands u sing the right to cut o ff the head Mean
,
.
time the women and boys followed close behi n d them utterin
the m ost shocking cries I ever heard T hese last receive g
,
.
the heads o f the slain from those engaged in the battle as soon ,
as they were cut o ff a fter which the men went in among the
enemy fo r the dead bodies ; but many o f them recei ved bodies
that did not belong to the heads they had cut o ff T he engage .
ment had not lasted many minutes when the enemy began to ,
retreat and were pursued by our party through the woods
,
.
S om e o f them in their flight crossed the hill on which I stood ;

, ,
and one threw a s h o r t j a gged spear at me as he passed which , , ,
st uck in th e inside o f my le ft thigh It was a fterwards cut

out by tw o women with an oyster shell T he operation le ft
,
‘
-
.
a wound as large as a common sized tea cup ; and a fter i t had

,
- -
been per formed I was carried across the river on a woman s

,
’
back to my hut where my wi fe applied some green herbs to

, ,
the wound whic h immediately stopped the bleeding and also
, ,
made the pain much les s severe .
In a short time our party returned victorious b ringin g alon g

, ,
w i th them m any prisoners Persons taken in battle whether .

,
chie fs or not become slaves to tho se who take them One o f

,
.
N E W ZE A L AN D .
th e head being generally the part aimed at ; and one well

di rected blow is quite enough to split the hardest skull T he .
n ame usually gi ven to it in the earlier accounts o f New

Zealand is p a to vp a too
, Mr A nderson in his general r e . .
,
m arks on the people o f Queen Charlott e 8 S ound says it i s ,
also called cm cct a But its correct and distinctive nam e .
seems to be that by which Ruther ford always designates it ,

th e m er y or m a i r y
,
.
T heir only missile weapons (except stones which they ,

merely throw from the hand ) are short spears made o f hard ,
wood or wh alebone and pointed at one extremity T hese
, , .
the are very dexterous in using both in darting at a mark , ,

an in receiving or turning aside w ith the blades o f their
battleaxes which are the only shields they use except the
, ,
folds o f their thick and flowing mats which th ey raise on the ,
le ft arm and which are tough enough to impede the passage
,
of a spear T hey have other spears however varying
.
, ,
from thirteen or fourteen to thir feet in length which they ,
u s e as lances or bayonets T ese or rather the shorter .
,
s ort are also sometimes called by E nglish writers p ato o s
, ,
or patoo p ato o s Lastly they o ften carry an instrument
-
.
,
somewhat like a sergeant s h a lb er fi curiously carved and
’
adorned with bunches o f parrot s te a th er s tied round the

B ,
’
top o f it T his they call a k en n ee T he musket has n o w

. .
,
however in a great measure superseded these primitive
,
weapons although the New Zealanders are as yet far from
,
being expert in the use o f it T he ships that touch at the .
country always find it the readiest way o f obtaining the sup

plies they want from the natives to purch ase them with arm s ,
or ammunition ; and the missionaries who have declined
to tr a fli c in these articles h ave o ften scarcely been able to ,
pro cure a single pig by the most tem p tin g price they could
o ffer in another shape .
Voca l m us i c i s f f on e o the N e w th e a vor i t e a m us em en ts o f

Zealanders Desti tute as they are . the art writing they of of ,
have nevertheless their song poetry part which is tradi

, ,
o f
tio n a r y and part the produce
,
such passing events a s of
strongly excite their feelings and prompt their ancy to thi s ,
f
on ly work o f composition o f which they have any knowledge .
Certain individuals among them are di stinguished fo r their

s uccess in these e ffusions but the people i n habiting the vicini
ty o f the east cape seem generally to enj oy the highest repu
tafion fo r this species o f talent T heir wind instru ments are .
s imilar to our fi fe s or flutes One which is frequently to be .
met with a t the Bay Islands consists according to Mr S avage ,

.
,
o f a tube six or seven inches long open at both extremities , ,
a n d h avin g three holes on one side and one on the other ,
.
Another is formed o f two pieces o f wood bound together s o

a s to make a t ube inflated at the middl e at which place there ,
is a s in gle h ole It is b lown i nto at one extremity wh i le th e

.
.
,
UN IVER S AL T RAVELLER . 455
V O C A L MU S IC .
ot her is stop ped and o p ene d to produce di fferent m o difi c a

,
ti ons o f the sound .
T he N e w Zealanders h ave a vari ety o f national dance s ;

b ut none o f them h ave been minu tely described S ome o f
.
t hem are s aid to display much grace o f movement ; other s

a r e chi efly remarkabl e fo r th e e xtr eme violence wi t h whi c h
th ey a r e p er formed .
A F R I C A .
L I K E A sia A fri ca is a conti nent or rather a penin sula of

, ,
vast extent miles in length and about in its ,
greatest breadth with an area o f nearly ,
square
miles and a populatio n according to Malte Brun o f
, , ,
For more than three hundred years the ships o f E urope ,
have been circumnavigating the coasts o f A frica ; but until
the last hal f century its interior recesses have presented and
, , ,
indee d at the present day to a great extent they present a
, , ,
blank in Geography— a p hysical and not les s a moral prob ,
lem a dark and be w ildering mystery
— ” “ T he spirit o f e h .
” “
ter p r i s e ,
a writer eloquently remarks h as opened the way
fo r civilization through the primeval orests o f the A merican
continent has traversed the boundless steppes o f the S outh
, ,
and planted cities in the heart o f th e A ndes But the rivers o f .
A fric a h ave hitherto a fforded no inlet to its central re gi ons ;

and the fiery deserts which extend from E gypt to the A tlantic ,
have proved a barrier against the march o f conquest or o f
civilization more impassable than the frozen wilds o f S iberia
“
, ,
or the Himal aya itsel f !
T he year 1 78 8 co n stituted a new era in the annals o f A fri
can discovery B e fore this motives o f interest had alone
.
,
guided such enterprises as h ad been undertaken in m aking ,
researches in A fric a ; but an association w a s n o w formed con ’
sisting o f men o f rank and wealth the obj ect o f which w a s ,

the advancement o f geographical knowledge U nder this .
association Ledyard Lucas Houghton Park B orneman and

, , , , , ,
B urckhardt prosecuted their discoveries

,
A t a still later date .
,
besides others Denham C la p p e r t o n Laing M a c G ill Tuckey
and last the Landers Richard and John have greatly adde d
, , , , ,
, ,
to our knowledge o f the geography o f A frica and also o f its ,
o p u l a tio n T o the Landers it may be mentioned in this place
b
, ,
~
.
elongs the honor of resolving the problem respecting the N i

ger or Q uo r r a which fo r years had occ u pied the attention o f
, ,
the whole civili zed world By means o f this river the com .
,
m u n ic a tio n with the interior o f A frica m ay at no distant day , ,

“
be both easy and sa fe an d our knowled ge o f its interior r e
,
cesses be even mo r e per fect than it now is o f its m aritim e
,
”
,
tribe s
Modern Traveller .
NIV ER S A L T RAVELLER
U 4 57 .
P OP U L ATI O N .
T he p u la ti on of Af r ica with which we are now chiefly

concerneeff: n aturally divides itsel f into two great portions
,
n orth and south o f the mountains o f K ong and the J a b el a l ,
K om r which give rise to the waters o f the S enegal the Niger

, , ,
and the Nile T o the north o f this line A fric a i s ruled an d
.
, ,
p artially occupied by fore i gn races who h ave taken posses
, ,
sion o f all the fertile districts and driven the aboriginal p O p u ,
la tion into the mountains and deserts o f the interior Here .

,
the Mohammedan creed maintains its ascendancy S outh o f .
this line we find A frica entirely peopled with the negro race
, ,
who alone seem c apable o f sustaini ng the fiery climate by ,

means o f a redundant physical energy scarcely compatible
w ith the full development o f the intellectual powers o f m an .
T h is 1 8 C entral A frica — a region as has been eloquently r e l: ,

“
marke d distinguished from all others by i ts productions and
,
climate ; by the simplicity and yet b arbarian magni fi cence o f
,
its states ; by the mildness and yet the diabolical ferocity o f its
,
inhabitants and peculiarly by the darker nature o f its super
stit io n s — the magical rites which have struck with awe stran
, ,
ge i s in all ages and which pres ent s o m e th in g i n ex p lic ab le
,
a n d even appalling to enlightened E uropeans T he E v il P rin .
c ip le here seems to reign with less o f limitation and in r e , ,

cesses inaccessible to white men still to enchant an d delude ,
the nations T he common and characterist ic mark o f their
.
superstition is the system o f F eti ch es by which an individual

, ,
appropriates to himsel f some casual obj ect as divine and ,
which with respe c t to him by this process becomes deified
, , ,
and exerts a peculiar fatality over his fortun e T he barbarism .
o f A frica may be attributed in part to its great fer tility which, , ,

enables its inh abitants to live without care but chiefly to its ,
impervio u sness E very petty state is so surrounded with na
.
tural barriers that it is isolated from the rest ; and though it

,
may be overrun and wasted and part o f its inhabitants c ar ,
ried into captivity it has never been m ade to form a c o n s tit

,
u e n t part o f one large consolidated empire ; and thus smaller ,

states become dependent without being incorporated T he .
whole region is still more inaccessible on a grand scale than ,

the petty states are in miniature ; and while the rest o f the
earth has become trite from the frequency o f visiters it still ,
retains part o f the mystery which hung over the primitive
a n d u n trodden world .
With these general remarks we proceed to some brie f n o ,

tices o f the principal countries o f A frica .
l
D o ug as
’
Hin t s on Mi s sions .
B A R B AR Y ST ATE S .
1 . BARB A R Y S T ATE S .
The countr i es included under the general description o f

Barbary occupy th e northern extremity o f A fric a and form a
, ,
narro w strip o f territory along the south side o f the M e d ite r
r a ne an A ccording to some authorities the len gth from east
.
,
to west is miles ; others estimate it at The width
v aries from 1 40 to 5 50 miles The principal S tates included .
in this territory are T ripoli Tunis A lgiers and Morocco , , ,

.
T he inhabitants are a very mixed race and may be d is tr i

buted into di fferent classes ; such a s Turks Moors A rabs , ,
B er ebb er s S h ell uh s Negroes and J ews
, , ,
.
O f these the least numerous are the T u r ks ; but they are

,
n evertheless to be considered as the so vereigns o f North and
East Barbary T hey are in general a very abandoned race
.
,
the re fuse o f Turkey chiefly composed o f pirates and other ,
banditti who h ave either enlisted in the service o f A lgiers
, ,
T unis Tripoli or who h ave fled from their country to escape
,
t h e punishment o f their crimes .
T he M oo r s who m ay be considered as the descendants o f

,
those who were driven out o f S pain reside chiefly in the towns ,
and villages T hey have a s allow complexion an aquiline
.
,
nose o o d teeth black eyes m a nly features but frequently a
”
, , , ,
very er o c io us expression of countenance T heir limbs are .
clumsily shaped ; their stature is commonly above the middle

size ; and their whole figure has rather a commanding ap
p ar a nc e
e T hey are naturally o f a grave and pensive dispo
.
sitiou indolent to an extreme and roused only by such vio

, ,
lent passions as avarice and hatred They h ave little curiosity .
or ambition a fter knowledge ; and no spirit o f enterprise i h ,

d us t ry or improvement
,
.
T he Ar a bs o f Barbary are partly the descendants o f those

who at first overrun the country under their Mohammedan ,
leaders and who have still kept themselves distinct from th e
,
other inhabitants ; and partly emigrants from S ah ara who ,
advance into the more northern districts whenever the de ,
populations o f the plague or other calamities a fford admis , ,
sion to a new colony They are divided into a large number .
o f tribes which never mingle by intermarriages and which

, ,
are o ften at war with eac h other They liv e in tents ; and .
en e r a lly form their encampments at a considerable distance .
rom any town or village T heir occ upation consists in ta .
king care o f their flocks and herds and in raising a little ,

wheat or barley When the land round their residence h as
.
become less productive and their c attle h ave consumed a ll ,

the pas ture they strike their tents and remove to a more fer
, ,
tile spot .
The B r ebes or B er eb b er s i nhabit the mountains o f North

,
Atl as ; a nd a r e s upposed to b e the o ffs p rin g o f the ori gin al
B AR BARY S TA TE S .
despotic description ; and the inhabitants are subject to th e

m ost degrading oppressions T he supreme power is entirely .
without control ; and the lives and property o f the natives are
wholly at the disposal o f their rulers E very kind o f cruelty .
and injustice is systematically practised ; and it is even said

to be a maxim o f government in this unhappy country that , ,
in order to rule the people e ffectually th ere should always be ,
“
a stream o f blood flowing from the throne ” .
T he r eli gi o n o f Barbary is the Mohammedan o f which it is ,

unnecessary to give a detailed account ; but which it may be ,
observed the Moors h ave greatly relaxed with respect to
,
m any o f its precepts and which on the other hand they have , , ,
burdened with many ad d itional superstitions T hey secretly .
drink wine without scruple and o ften to great excess ; and ,

easily satis fy their consciences by pro fessing to take it as a
medicine In like manner they render any prohibited food
.
,
per fectly law ful by merely ascribing to it some medicinal
,
quality
The s t a t e of kn o w l ed g e in Barbary is low in the extreme ;
and the modern Moo r s have n o t the smallest portion o f the
literary spirit o f their ancestors T hey are not deficient in .
natural genius and a b ilities ; but their minds are degraded by

their oppressi ve government and cramped by their l i mited e d ,
u c a t io n .In the state o f childhood they display an u ncommon ,

share o f acuteness and vivacity ; and are remarkable while at ,
school fo r their memory and application but a fter having been
, ,
taught to repeat a fe w select passages from the koran and per ,

h aps also to read and write their progress i n learning is termi ,
h ated ,
and they are allowed to grow up without any farther
discipline or instruction .
T he m ech a ni c a r t lik ewise are in a very rude state among

s
, ,
the Moors and seem to h ave undergone no improvement what
,
ever fo r many ages past T heir tools are very fe w and sim .
ple : their implements o f husbandry especially their ,

ploughs mills looms forges are all i n m i n i ature an d at the
, , , , ,
same time most clumsily constructed A goldsmith fo r ih .
,
stance will come to work fo r his employer in the corner o f a
,
court where he soon fixes his stall His anvil hammer bel
,
.
, ,
lows files and melting ladles are all brought along with h im
, ,
in a bag His bellows are made o f a goat skin into which he
.
-
,
inserts a reed ; and holding this with one h and he presses the ,
b a g wi th the other and thus blows and kindles his fire

,
Other .
trades are carried on with the same rude simplicity ; and yet ,
so ingenious are the workmen that they can accomplish com ,
p a r a t iv e ] great things by th e most i na d equate means

,
.
T he cor i s h h ous es are very dark and gloomy as the win ,

dows are extremely small and all look into the court excep t , ,
perhaps one lattice or balcony above the gateway towards the ,
street which however is very seldom opened unless on festi
, , , ,
val da s T he stairs are either in the porch or in the cor

.
,
h er s o the court T he roo fs are flat covered with p laster

.
, ,
U NIVER S AL T RAV E LL E R . 46 1
D IET .
and surrounde d with a parapet : there the fem ale part o f the
family are accustomed to walk and amuse themselves in the
cool o f the evening T o the habitations o f the more weal t h
. y
,
an additio na l building is frequently attached called the A lee , ,
or O le a h ; the apartments o f which are used as wardrobes as ,
places o f greater retirement or as lodgings fo r strangers ,
.
T he houses are generally whitened on the outside ; and a p

pear at a distance like vaulted tombs in a ch u rchyard T he
, ,
.
villages are always in the neighborhood o f the towns an d ,

are composed o f huts o f stone earth and reeds surrounded , , ,
with thick and high hedges .
T he inhabitants o f B arbary are remarkably a b t em i o us i n s
t h ei r d i et and c an subsist upon a very small quantity o f the

s implest nourishment The lower classes especially among
.
,
the A rabs live chiefly upon the roots o f vegetables w ild fruits
, , ,
and a mixture o f meal and water ; a fe w balls o f which or a ,
fe w dates and a dra u ght o f camel s milk will o ften support

,
’
,
them on a journey fo r a whole day The principal dish among .
a ll ranks from the prince to the peasant i s cu s c s o e a kind o f

, ,
a ,
granulated paste made o f flour very c oarsely ground heaped
, ,
up in a vessel full o f small holes placed above the pot in whic h ,
the vegetables or flesh meat is boiled and in this m anner
, ,
stewed by the ris i ng vapor ; it is then mi x ed with soup m ilk , ,
butter honey spices pot herbs or animal food The more
, , ,
-
,
.
opulent persons have various preparations o f almonds dates , ,

sweetmeats milk honey and other delicacies ; and all rank s
, , ,
in B arbary u se a great proportion o f bread o f which they ,
o ften make a meal with the addition o f a little oil vinegar or
, , ,
milk T he Moors agreeably to the Jewish custom cut the
.
, ,
throats o f all the animals which they use fo r food at the same ,
time turning their heads towards Mecca in a d oration o f their
prophet ; and a fter su ffering them to bleed freely they care~ ,
fully wash away the rema ining bloo d an d divide the meat ,
into small pieces about two pounds i n weight T he natives o f .
B arbary are very regular w ith respect to the hours o f eating .
T hey break fast soon a fter daybreak ; take a slight rep ast
about noon ; and make their principal m eal at sunset A t .
these seasons a large flat earthen dish full o f th e prepared

, , ,
food is placed upon a low round tray or merely set upon the
floor A round this the family s e a t ~
, , ,
. t h e m s e lv e s cross legged -
,
upon m ats ; and having previously washed their b a n d s they
, ,
tear the meat with their fingers and form it along with the , ,
c u s c a s o e into little balls which they throw with a dexterous
, ,
j erk into their mouths T hey m ake no use o f knives and .
forks and very rarely even o f spoons

, T he m ale part o f th e .
family eat in one company the females in another ; and the

children with the servants in the thi rd B u t among the A rab s
, ,
.
and B er eb b er s the master o f the tent generally eats alone ;

,
the dish then passes to the children nex t to the wives a n d , ,
lastly to the domestics A fter eating they again wash their .
,
h ands mouth 1 beard ; but sometime s content themselve s
,
355 ,
B AR B A R Y S TA T E S .
with wiping their fingers on their clothes o r on the wooll y ,
heads o f their negro slaves It must b e o b s e r v ed also that .

, , ,
be fore beginning a repast and even be fore entering u pon any ,
kind o f work they reverently utter the word B i m i lla h that is s
“i n the name o f G o d ,
and upon concluding their meals or
, ,
,
c ompleting any und e rtaking they s ay in like manner A lli a n
“ , , ,
d i l l a h that is
,
G o d be pra i sed
,
.
’
T he M oo r i h dr es s consists o f a shirt and drawers the

s
,
mer worn over the latter and reaching to the knee Over this , .
is a ca ftan or coat buttoned down the front and confined to

, , ,
the bo dy by a sash T he head is covere d w i th a red cap and.
turban and the feet with yellow slippers or san d als T he

, , .
legs and arms are bare When they go out they thro w care .
,
lessly over the head a piece o f white cotton or silk called a , ,
h a yk five or s ix y ards in length and nearly as many in
, ,
breadth In presence o f a superior the hayk is su ffered
.
,
to fall upon the shoulders ; but the turban is never taken o ff
nor moved The female dress resembles that o f the men ex
.
,
cept in the adjustment o f the hayk the pre ference o f the most ,
gaudy colours and the slippers being red T hey also wear
,
.
rings bracelets an d other ornament in pr of usion

, ,
s
,
.
T he natives o f B arbary m a y at a very early age ; an d rr
generally witho ut h aving h ad much opportunity to establish

an attachment o f a ffection In forming matrimonial connex .
ions the parents o f the parties may be said to be the o ly

, n
agents ; and it frequently happens that the bride and bride
room do not see each other till the ceremony is per formed , .
uring several days be fore marriage the br i de remains at ,

hom e to receive the congratulations o f her friends to be in ,
structed by the t a eb or priest in the duties o f the married , ,
state and to undergo the process o f a fresh painting During
,
.
this period the bridegroom receives the vis its o f his friends
‘
in the morni n gs ; and in the evenings is paraded through the

streets on horseback attended by a musical band o f hautboys , ,
drums triangles & c ; and surrounded by his m ale relations
, ,
.
and acquaintances who testi fy their j oy on these occasions by

, ,
dancing and jumping and twirling their muskets in the air by
, , ,
exhibiting the ir horsemanship and by firing in the face and at ,
the feet o f the bridegroom On the day o f the marriage the .

,
bride is placed in a square vehicle about twelve feet i n cir ,
c u m fe r e n c e covered w ith white linen or variegated silk and
, ,
,
fixed on th e back o f a m u le In this litter she is carr ied .
,
through the town in the midst o f her relatives and c o m p a n
,
ions accompanied w ith the light o f torches the sound o f m a

, ,
s i c a l instruments and the frequent volleys o f musketry
, I rr .
this m anner she is conducted to the house o f her intended hus

band who returns about the same time from a similar e x h i
, ,
b iti o n : and great care is taken that she does not touch the
threshold o f the door as she enters S h e then sits down with .
her h and over her eyes and the company retires the bride ,
groom is introduced to her alon e perhaps fo r the first tim es

4 64 U NIVER S A L T RAVELLER .
B A R B A RY ST A TES .
m ain in these places fo r wh ole days living on barley me al ,

and water T heir manner o f hunting the hyena is also very
.
s in ul ar and deserves to be particularly mentioned } T en o r

tweg
,
v e persons repair to the cave whic h the animal is und e r
stood to frequent and in which he always remains through
the day One o f these strips himsel f naked seizes a dagger
.
,
i n one h and and taking the end o f a r o p e with a noose in the

,’
o ther h e a d x a n c es gradually into the cave s peaking gently

'
r
, , ,
with an insinuating tone o f voice as i f with a V iew to fascinate ,
the hyena When he has reached the animal he str okes h is
.
,
b ack in order to s o othe him dexterously slips the noose round ,
his neck throws a pie c e o f cloth over his face pulls the rop e
, ,
at the same instant to indicate to his com panion s that it i s
fixed ; and then retiring be hind urges th e a n imal forward , ,
while the d ogs attack him in front as he is dragged along I n ,
.
the pursuit o f the ostrich the A rabs m ak e use o f the deser t ,

horse and s e t out in a party o f twenty or mo r e riding gently
, , ,
against the wind one a fter the other at the d istance o f abo ut
, ,
hal f a mile asunder till they discover the footmarks o f th e ,
bird When they come in sight o f their game they rush fo r

.
,
ward at full s p eed al w ays observing the same relative dis
,
tance T he os t ri c h finding her wings an impediment to her

.
,
progres s when thus moving against the wind turns toward s ,
her pursu ers endeavoring to pass them ; and though she may
,
escape the firs t or second she i s generally brought down by ,
the musket or blu d geon o f tho se that follow .
Wh en a number o f women are h ired fo r th e

a n y on e d i es ,
purpose o f lamentation ; and they per fo r m th eir d uty by m a ,
king the mo st fright ful h owlings by beating their heads and ,
breast s and tear ing their faces with the nails o f their fingers
,
.
T hey are so expert in the expressions o f gr ie f that they sel ,
dom fail by their mourn ful sound s and a fflicted gestures to

, ,
impress the funeral as sembly with the deepest tho ught fulnes s
and sorrow T he dead are interred a fe w hours a ft er thei r
.
d e cease ; and the greatest importance is attached to the rites

o f b urial It is an opinion among the M o o rs as it was among
.
,
th e ancient heathen that the souls o f those w h o have not r e

,
c e i v e d proper interment are e x cluded from the abodes o f th e
,
bless e d ; and hence it is a c counted the most dread ful o f a ll
,
punishments to be cut to pieces and thrown to th e dogs A s .
soon as the dying p erson h as brea t hed his last the body is ,
care fully washed and sewed up in a winding sheet o f white
,
-
cloth : fo r this purp o se cloth th at h as b e e n b r o u gh t from Mec

‘
,
c a and blessed by the Imam o f that city is most highly valu
, ,
ed T he corpse is next placed o n a bier and carried on hors e
.
,
b ack or men s shoulders to the burying ground which is a l
,
’
,
-
,
ways on the outside o f the tow n and o f which every family ,
has a portion walled i n fo r their own use A ll devout persons .
a ccount it a highly meritorious duty to assist in those rites ;
and to a ccom p any at least a p art o f the way every de a d b o

, , ,
IVE R S AL T RAVELLER
U N 4m .
N UB I A .
d y which they m ay happen to meet T he att endants wa lk .
t w o abreast go very qui c k and sing hymns adapt ed to t h e

, ,
occ asion The grave is m ade wide at the bottom and n a r
.
,
r o w at the top ; and the body is dep o site d on its side with th e ,
face towards the east a nd t h e right ha n d under the head

, ,
pointing t owar ds Mecca while one o f the pries ts ne r ally ,
puts into the h and a let ter o f reco mmendatio n to MO a m m e d .
A n arch is in most cases formed o ver the b ody wit h branch

, ,
e s o f trees to keep o ff th e earth ; di fferent kinds o f vessels and
,
u tensils are frequently inte rred along with the corpse ; large
s tones are placed upon t h e grave to resist the attempts o f ,
w ild beasts ; and a flag is finally er ect ed over the spot It is .
c ustomary fo r the female relatives to weep at the to mbs of

t heir deceased frie nds fo r several d ays a ft er the fune ral ; and
a ll who pass by a b urying gr o u n d
,
o ffe r up pr ayers fo r the -
,
d ead . Wh en a wi fe lo ses h er husb and by death she mourn s ,
four months and eight d ays during whic h period she wears ,
n o silver or gold ; and i f she h appe n s to be pregnant she mus t ,
c ontinue mourning till h e r d elivery whi le th e relatio n s o f h er ,
l ate husband are b oun d in th e mean tim e to p rovide fo r h er
, ,
s ubsistence T he men usually express their grie f by abst ain
.
i n g fro m sh avin g their he a d fr om trim ming their b e a rd an d , ,

from par ing the ir na il s .
*
2 . N U BIA .
S outh o f Egypt is Nubia the in h abitants o f which derive ,

t heir origin from the Bed o uin A rabs who invaded the coun ~ ,
t r y a ft e r t he invasion o f M a h o m e tis m T h e men are s om e .
what below the E gyptians in sta ture but gener ally well m ade , ,
s trong and mu s cular
, with fine features T he women th e
, .
,
most virtuous o f the E ast posse ss go od figures with pleas in g , ,
though not handsome countenances and engaging m anners , .
T hey are however worn d own by cont inual labor from their
, ,
e arliest years ; the whole business o f the ho us ehold be ing le ft
to them while the men attend o nly t o t he cul ture o f the s oil
, .
North o f Dehr t h e met ropolis o f th e country t he u s uald r es s

, ,
o f the men is only a linen s hir t the usual color o f W hich amon g , ,
the wealthy is blue T he cloak wo rn by th e E gyptia n pea s
,
.
'
ant is also i n use T he head dress is a small line n c a p with

.
-
,
s ometimes a fe w rags twisted round it by way o f a tur ban .
Boys and girls go quite naked T he women wrap themselve s .
i n black linen go vvn s and we a r ear rings and glass brace lets
’
-
,
s uch as cannot a ff ord to purchase the latter m ake bracele ts ,
o f s tra w . Their hair hangs in ringlets and is ornamented be ,
i
N ew Ed nb ur gh E n cyc op edia l .
4m U NI VE R S AL T RAVELLE R .
N U B IA .
h ind with pieces o f glass or s tones which are c o nsidered as , ,

a mulets .
S outh o f Dehr a small a p ron or a p iece o f cloth about th e

, ,
wa i st is all that is worn
, .
T h e Nub ians seldom go unarmed : as soon a s a boy grow s

u p his first care is to purchase a short crooked kni fe which
, , ,
he ties over his le ft e lbo w u nder his shirt and is always rea , ,
d y to draw it upo n t h e s lightest quarrel W hen h e goes fro m .
one village to another t he N ub ian carries a heav y stick load

, ,
e d with iron a t o n e e n d ; b esides whic h he is armed w ith a
lance and shield S ome have swords also ; b ut fi r e arms a n d
.
-
ammunition are scarce .
T he h a bi ta ti ons o f t h e peopl e are c o nst ructed either wi th

mud or loos e stone s T h e latt er s o rt generally stand on th e
.
declivity o f th e hills and consist o f two se parate and circula r

,
buildi n gs o n e fo r the males and the other fo r the females
, ,
.
T he m ud dwellings a r e commonly so low that a pe rson c a n ,

scarcely stand upright in the m They are covered with t h e .
stalk s o f the dhourra which are soon eaten up by the cattle

, ,
and then their place is s u pplied by palm leave s T he house s -
.
o f the richer inhabitants frequently surrou nd an area or e u

,
closed space with the me n s apartments separated from thos e
,
’
o f the w m e n Th e ir principal utensils c o n s ist o f ab out h al f

q .
a doz en coarse earthen j ars in which the pr o visions are kept ,
a fe w earthen plates a b a n mill a hatchet and s ome round

,
-
, ,
stick s over which the loom is laid Nubia possesses but few
,
.
roups o f house s deserving the name o f towns ; and the vil~

age s ar e fo r the m os t part widely s eparated
, ,
.
A m o ng the chie f articl e s o f Nubian d i et are c oarse cake s ,

made o f dhourra ; which is ground by the w omen eve r y morn
ing an d kn e aded and baked in a fe w minutes P alm wine i s .
t o he h a d in most o f the villages ; and a liquor resemblin g

.
be er called bouz a is made from b ot h dhourra and barley

, ,
.
T he N ub ia n s purchase their wives and are extremely j ealous ,

o f their honor U pon the slight est suspicion the husban d
.
,
drags his un fortunate wi fe by night to the ba nk s o f the river ,
and a fter cutting open her bos o m with his k n i fe throws h er ,
“
into the water to be foo d fo r the crocodiles ”
Otherwis e ,
.
,
they are kind in disposition hospit abl e to strangers fond o f , ,
singing and so extremely honest that pil fering is scarcely
, ,
k n og n among them C uriosity is one o f their most prominent
.
characteristic s ; and they ask their g uest a thousand q ues

tions about the place he came from and th e busi nes s th at ,
b rou ght him into their country .
468 U N IV ER S AL T R AVELL E R .
A BYSS I I A N .
W hen settin g out on a j ourney they pay articular attentio n

si n gular specie s o f falcon o f a deep g
,
to a rown color with a , ,
white breast If it s it still with the breast t o w ards them
.
, ,
while they pass it is a goo d sign and the business they a r e
, ,
going upon i s expected to prosper : i f its back be turned

t o wards th em it i s thought unpr o pitious th o u gh not su ih
, ,
o
c ie n tly s o as to create alarm but should it fly away on thei r

approach they return home and wait for a m ore favorable
,
oppor tunity .
When a person is seized wi th the fe v er called T i gr e T er 3 , ,

d isease p ec uliar to the country the relati o ns expose to h i s ,
sight all the fine cl othes and ornam ents o f gold and silver t hey
can collect or borrow making at the s ame time as muc h
, ,
n oise as possi b le with drums tr umpets and voci fero u s out ,
s
,
cries in order to drive out o f the patient the de v il by whom
, ,
they believe him to be posses sed A s soon however as th e .
, ,
s ick person approaches the mom ent o f death the d rums and
,
t rumpets ceas e and a m ourn ful how ] is set up
,
When t h e .
death is announced the friends tear their hair scratch th e

, ,
skin from their temples and thro w themselves on the ground
, ,
sob b ing and s creaming in all the a gony o f despair ; and in
this they are j oined by all the nei h b o r s and acquaintance o f
th e deceased with their several e p e n d a n ts
,
.
S oon a fter death the bo d y h avin g been care fully washed

, ,
and fumigated with incense is sewed up in one o f the cloth s ,
whi c h the deceased wore in his li fetime and carried to th e ,
g rave by the relations ; and while it is being deposited in t h e

earth th e p riests recite an appointed form o f prayer On t h e
,
.
following d ay or as soon a ft erwards as the friends o f th e

,
party can be as s embled a feast i s held in honor o f the de ,
c eased which commences with a procession to the grave a t
, ,
tended by hired female mourners who rend the air wit h their ,
outcries and concludes with eating to excess and drinking ,
till the whole assembly is intoxicated T his strange kind o f .
commemoration is repeated several times in the course o f th e

year every n e w relation striving to outdo the rest in the
,
s plendor o f his entertainment A n attendance at these meet
.
i ngs is considered the highest honor that c an be con ferred

u pon the family .
A m o n the cu s to ms p ecu li a r to A byssinia we select the fo l

rr
l owing V
E
Vh en a build i ng has been le ft un inhabited it is usual

.
,
to kill a cow or a sheep and distribute the carcass within the
,
walls ; an o ffering which it is presumed satisfies the ghost o f
th e place who immedia tely leaves it in peace
,
But when .
s uch houses are a b andoned or n eglected the o ffended dem on ,

h aun ts the mouldering remains and kills those whom it finds ,
taking up even a temporary residence among them without ,
ap peasing its wrath by the customary obligation .
A nother cus tom is in courts o f law whether held by t h e

, ,
o ver n o r o f the province or by a subordinate magistrate fo r ,
p la in tiff an d th e de fe n d ant to s t an d up w it h th ei r d r ess ti e d

Gaf fe Ma n
. P 4 69
. .
470 U N I VER S AL T RAVELL E R .
C AF F R A R I A .
a dvanced in years T hey h ave no traces whatever o f th e .
t hick lip which forms such a prominent trait in the featu re s

,
o f the A frican negro ; and as widely do they di ffer bot h in ,
p erson and character from the Hottentot race in whose bor ,

ders they have so lon b een resident T hey are remarkably .
ood humored cheer ul and animated excepting when e n fe e

gled by sickness or age T here is a national sprightliness
-
, ,
.
,
activity and vivacity about them which greatly d istin guishes
, ,
them from the women o f most natio n s that are but little a d
v a n c e d in civilization and who are generally reserved in their ,
d isp ositi o n towards strangers .
Th ei r like that o f the ancient B r ito n s in the days o f

a p p a r el, ,
J ulius C aesar consists wh olly o f beasts skins curried and p r e

,
’
,
p ared i n such a m anner as to render them per fectly so ft and ,
p liable T he inner side is then colored with a kind o f dark

.
o chre or charcoal
,
T hese leathern garments which are gen
.
,
e r ally long enough to rea ch to the feet are merely suspended ,
from the shoulders like a soldier s cloak and ha n g entirely

,
’
,
l o ose excepting when th e cold renders it necessary to wrap

,
themselves up more closely But leavi ng out o f the question .
,
a small and indecent coveri ng that hides the part whence the
foreskin was cut in circumc i sion a state o f nudity i s that in ,
w hich the men are most frequently seen ; a n d in which they
a ppear to pride themselves Hence arises the filthy practice o f .
r ubbing their bodies fr o m h ead to foot with the fa t o f animals

, , ,
o r some other u nctuous m atter to prevent the skin from being ,
arche d by the sun s rays T he head is quite exposed in the’
.
o ftest as well as the c oldest weather unless sickness o blige ,

them to cover it T hey frequently indeed d eprive themselves
.
, ,
o f the slight covering with which nature has furnished them ,
b y s h a vin g th e head altogether But this is doubtless done in .
,
m ost c ases at least fo r the purpose o f riddi n g themselves o f

,
v ermin which is not a little increas ed by the mode adopted
, ,
a n d the materials used in dressing their h air T hey seldom
,
.
p ut any thing on the feet except when travelling and about , ,

taking a considerable j ourney ; and then they only wear soles ,
o r a r ude description o f sandals consisting o f sti ff pieces o f ,
h ide roughly sh aped to the foot and fixed by means o f two
'
,
o r three short tho n gs th at pass over the instep ,
.
T he dress o f the wom en consists o f the s ame rude materials

a s that o f the men : it only di ff ers in sha p e T heir i n gu bo or .
,
u pper garment has a narrow loose flap appended to the collar

,
behi nd : this extends to the bottom o f the skirts and some ,
t imes lower forming a sort o f train It is usually ornamented
,
.
w ith three rows o f butt ons placed in parallel lines from the ,
-
t 0p to the bottom o f the m antle each being set as thickly as ,
p ossible Without . these (whic h all are not wealthy enon h ,

to p rocure ) th e cloak is considered incomplete
,
S hort leat .
e r n petticoats also are worn ; and when engaged in an kind

of lab or s uch as gardenin g &c constit ute their only { abili
, , ,
.
, , ,
U NIVER S AL T RAVELLER . 47 1
C OS TU M E .
m e nts i n g ub o
: th e
is then laid aside being too cumbersom e ,
.
amon g the higher classes especially noth

B y m a ny , h o w ev e r , ,
ing more than a small apron decorated with various colore d ,
b eads is used under the cloak
,
T his is but three or fo ur .
inches broad and might seem to b e used more as an orna

,
ment than as a m atter o f decorum E xcepting c as es o f age .
,
childhood and mothers who nurse it is accounted exceed
, ,
i n gly unbecoming fo r a female to go about with her breasts
uncovered Over these there fore ; she wears th e i m le ka
.
, ,
which is also orna m ented with be ads Great taste is fr e .
quently displayed in their c aps or head dresses which are ,

-
,
g enerally the mo s t expensive p art o f their cos tume T hey .
a r e made from the skin o f a peculiar s p e cies o f antelope indi ,

enous to the forests and c alled b y the natives i ut i , T hi s
gcing cut to the shape required a large quantity 0 var i egated
,
,
be ads are stitched on with great regularity ; and as white and
light blue gene rally form the principal s hades in this C a ffre
turban their contrast with the sa b le countenance o f the wear
,
er is fa r from being disagreeable When complete th e weight
, .
,
is o f cours e c o nsiderable ; a n d the sh ape altoge t her too mas
culine to a c c o r d w ith E urop ean ideas o f female delicacy It is .
rare indeed to see a wom an with any thing on her feet even
, , ,
when travelling : she almost invariably goes bare foot under ,
a ll circu ms tances a nd in all kinds o f we ath er ,
.
T he chie f women even to the queen he rs el f are no t at all

, ,
distingu is hed by dr es s from the m o s t com mon order s ; like all
the rest they are wholly d estitute o f change ei ther fo r days or
,
s easons each carries her entire wardrobe about her pers on
,
daily and has no other bedclo thes at night T heir leathern
, .
m antles are u sually renewed o n c e a ye a r ; and choice cattle

are then s laughtered fo r this pur po se expressly Black c o w s .
or oxen are generally selected a decid ed pre ference being ,

given to th at color T he only visible d i ffe re nce between the
.
m ost ex alted and poores t females o f th e land consists in th e

quantity o f ornaments they p os sess O f these bra cele ts .
, ,
n ecklaces and ear drops form the princip al
,
-
S o me have as .
,
m any as fi fty and others more than thr ee times that number o f
,
bead strings aro und the neck ; on the arms are rings o f copper
-
or iron ; and when beads were les s plenti fu l in the country ,

festoons o f s m all cyp r aea shell were appe nded to the ir caps ,
a nd sometimes worn as necklaces S us p ende d from the .
neck or from some p art o f th e cloak man y c arry the shell o f

, ,
a small land tortoise contai ning a quantity o f red pulverized
-
,
o chre together w ith a thin piece o f leathe r which with thi s
, , ,
Ca ffre r ouge is occasionally rubbed upon the cheeks A
,
.
b utton shell or small string o f be a ds us u ally serves a s a

, , ,
s uccedaneum fo r ear rings -
.
T he men s ornaments are much the s ame as those o f th e

’
w omen Th eir arms above the elbows are o ft en adorne d

.
, ,
wit h broad ivory rings cut out o f the s o lid part o f an eleph a nt s
,
’
tus k well p o lis h ed

, F r om th e wr is t up w ar ds t h ere ar e fi e
.
C AF F R AR l A .
qu ently as many as thirty bracelets mad e o f iron or b ra s s ; ,

a n d meta l rings are al s o wor n on the legs ju s t above th e
,
a nkle s In addition to great quantities o f beads various othe r
.
,
things are suspe nded from the neck such as small pieces o f ,
cedar wood the bones and teeth o f certain a n imal s &c T hese
, ,
.
,
however are regarded as a kind o f charm rathe r th an orna

ments R ound t h e heads o f the chie fs are so m etimes seen
.
n arro w straps thickly studded w ith di ff erent colored bead s

,
singularly and taste fully arrang ed ; and on going to war th e ,
complete wings o f the blue crane fastened on each side o f t h e ,

head constitute t heir national plum e s Many decorate their
, .
legs with the hairy ex tremity o f a favorite cow s tail or with ’

,
t h at o f s o me w il d b e a s t that has fallen un der their s pear in th e
c hase This is attached to th e knee and hangs down th e
.
,
shin T he ears o f all with comparatively few exceptions
.
, ,
are bored ; and among s ome o f the tr ibes this practice is car
ried to an extravagant extent d is te n din g the lobes to the very ,
utter m s t a n d leaving ho les o f enorm o us size
A,
e’
, .
Th ei r m a n n er qf l if e i s truly patriarchal , and g e ne ral di es

e xtreme ] simple T hi s ordinar ily consists o f milk , which ,
.
like th e rab s , and Fou lah natio n o f We s tern A frica , they i h ~

v ariab ly use in a sour curdled state It is called a m a a z , a n d .
r endered thus thick and acidulous by being kept in leathern

s acks or bottles the appearance o f which is filthy in the ex
,
treme and to the eye o f a stranger exceedingly disgusting
, ,
T hese vessels are replenished with fresh m ilk from the c o w

.
,
m orning and evening ; thi s is generally found in a n n our o r
two be fore th e y dra w o ff that designed fo r family u s e It is .
s ometimes kept in calabashes (gourd shells but in these it o f

ten contr a c ts a p ec uliar and dis agreeable taste New milk is .
se ld o m used excepting b y children ; no r does it ever underg o

,
any oth er preparation than that already mentioned T hi s .
forms th e C a ffre s standing dish and next to this a bowl o f

’
,
boiled corn T he grain most commonly cultivated by th e
.
tr ibes o f S outher n A frica is a species o f millet o r guinea corn ,

called a m a z im ba by the Ca ffre a n d m a ba li by the B o o c h u a n a ,
.
It i s u sed in di fferent way s ; but most commonly in a boiled

s tat e .Wh e n thu s prepared it i s served up in small basket s , ,
out o f which each helps hi m s el f making his h a nd s serve as a ,
s uccedaneum fo r sp o ons S easoning o f any kind is s eldom .
u sed : excepting when mixed with a little milk the bare grain ,
constitutes the s ole ingredient o f the mess It i s s ometi me s .
p ounded between two stones with the hand (cor n mills b ein g ,
-
a ltogether u n known in C a ff r a r i a ) and made into a kind o f ,
p ottage and at other times formed into thick cakes which are ,
a lways on the hear th amid hot embers a fter the manner o f th e , ,
a ncients Indian corn also is cultivated but not so extensive
.
,
ly ; pum p kins likewise together with a fe w oth er esculent
, ,
p lant s But o
. f the latter they seldom lay up any store ; co
n
s equen tly they a r e o nl y u se ful w h ile th e s ea s on l a sts ; an d thi s
474 U N IV E R S A L TRAV E L L E R .
of the work A s fragile h ab itati o ns require but comparatively

.
l ittle labor and less cost their destruction or the necessity o f , ,

l eaving them is seldom the c ause o f m uch un e a siness to t h e
,
o ccu p ant s to who s e p a storal and migratory hab its this u n sub
‘
a
,
s t a n ti a l m o de o f building in all probability owes its ori i n
g , , .
Being u tter strangers to the c o m forts and conveniences o f

c ivilized li fe they o f course see no necessity fo r a larger and
,
m ore commodi o us kind o f dwel ling T h e cli m ate i s so fine .
an d Warm in gener al that th e day is us u ally spent in t h e O pe n

air ; it is only the night sh ade bad weather o r si c knes s th at -
, ,
will induce them to remain much within doors ; and when th e
.
latter o f these causes operates as the o ccasion o f their con

fi n em e n t th e scene is m elanc h oly inde e d
,
A Ca ffre um z e village c om m only calle d ‘
c o n sist s
“k r aal ”
, , ,
s imply o f six ten or a doz en o f thes e huts and a cattle fol d
, , ,
-
o r tw o T he latter u s ually c onstitute by fa r the most promi

.
n ent obj ects in the view ; whatever m a y be the state o f t h e

h ouses the fold s have at all times para m o u nt claims upon th e
,
attenti o n of the o wne r s, and are almos t al w ays kept in muc h

better repair T he question whether or not a prop os ed spot
.
,
is suitable fo r the r ebu h la n ti o ft en determines t h e site o f a ,
village ; which on this account is invariably built s o as to en
, ,
s ure the sun s genia l in fl u ence at an early hour in the morn
’
ing T hese enclosures are generally erected in the midst o f th e

.
houses under the o wner s eye and within r e ach o f instan t

,
’
,
p rotecti o n in a ll c ases o f e m erge ncy Gardens o f corn —land s .
a re sc arcely eve r attached to their h amlets with the V ie w o f

,
enriching the prospect profit alone being the incentive by ,

whi c h the nat ive h o rticultu rist is actuated No flower bed s
“
-
t h e re fore are t o b e fo u nd i n a C a ffre garden ; the rose a n d

.
,
t he vi ol et &c never y e t o c c upied a place there ; n o r do they
,
.
,
e ver se e m to have thought o f planting trees o f any d es c r ip «
»
tion whatever S o entirely devoid are they o f that taste which

.
induces an admiration o f natural scenery that they a nhe si ,

t a tin gly cut down the finest trees fo r t h e m o st t r i fling purposes .
T h e rural and the ro m anti c are alike destitute o f charms in

t h e eye o f a C a ffr e when selecting his d w elling place henc e
,
-
t h e traveller need n o t b e surprised to find even chie fs w h o ,
h ave the l and be fore them bury ing themselves in barren nooks , ,
w here they cannot s e e to t h e distance o f hal f a mile in any
direction .
In some things th e A m ax o s a tri be o f Ca ffres are extreme , ,

ly p articular ; b ut in other s their habits are disgusting beyon d
m easure When sitting down to m eat fo r instance if th e
.
, ,
h ands are cons id ered un clean a quantity o f fresh c o w d u n g is
‘
i nvariably used a s the substitute fo r s o ap and wate r Whe n .
e n ga ged in th e act o f slaughteri n g the beast is no so o ner op en ,
e d th an a sc ra m b le takes p l ace fo r the g all the bitte r contents o f ,

wh ich are eagerl y d ru nk by th e individual who fir st gets hold o f
i.t N o r is thi s all th at is c alc ulated to s k en o ne on s uc h occ a
ie ~
U N I V ER S AL T RA V E L L ER . 475
SO U T H ER N A FR J CA .
s ion s When cut up pieces o f th e meat are purposely rolle d

.
,
o n the floor o f the c attle fo ld previously to b eing u sed ; and d
,
certain parts even o f the entrails are b ut just thrown on th e
fi r e be fore the s avage butchers voraciously devo ur them whil e
literally co vered with filth T he small baskets in which their .
food is usually served up are m ade from a species o f c yp er us , ,
a strong r eedy grass that is fr equently fo und growing about

,
fountains T hey are o f a circular shape neatly wrought ; and
.
,
th e tex ture is so close as to render them capable o f c o ntain ‘
ing any kind o f liquid One traveller tells us th at it is into .
these vessels th at mil k is thrown fo r the p urpose o f coagul a

tion ; w h ile another Vaillant with s till les s accuracy assert s
, , ,
th at they wash them with urine to m ake the milk coagulate ,
more speedily But although n either one nor the other o f
.
these gentlemen is correct the state in which these bowls are ,

k ept is indescribably dirt y Whenever emptied o f their con .
tents they are immediately placed on the ground fo r t h e dogs

,
to lick ; and this c onstitutes almost the only purification they
e ver obtain *
.
5 . S OU T HER N A F R IC A .
S outhern A fric a comprehends C ape Colony or the D utch ,

s ettle m ents near the C ape o f Good Ho p e and the re gions ,
north occupied by various tribes o f Hotten tots
, .
T he C a 6 was originally discovered by the Portuguese and ,

a fterwar s colonized by the Dutch C a p e T o wn the capital , .
,
wa s founded in 1 6 52 and is built with great r e la r ity and a
,
considerable degree o f elegance T he streets w ich are w id e .
, ,
intersect each other at right angles T he houses probab ly e .
'
x
c e e d 2 000 in number and fo r the most p art are o f stone c e
, ,
m e n te d wi th a glutinous kind f ear th and are generally white o ,
:
Washed on the outside T heir height is seldom more than .
two floors frequent storms rendering a greater elevation dan

,
!
gerons T he p opulation o f C a p e T own is now probably more

.
than T he population o f thirteen divisions o f the eas t

and west provi n ces into which the colony is divided was in , ,
1 82 7 about
, A l though th e colony has passed into the
possession o f Great B r ita in a great proportion o f the inhabit
'
s
,
ants are descendants o f the fi r st se ttlers .
Notwithstanding their E uropean descent these people usu , ,

ally denominated b oa r s or farme r s are destitute o f even the
,
ru diments o f a good education a n d their notions o f religio n ,
and morals are extreme ly relaxed S moking and sleep o c c u .
y a great part o f their time ; and indolenc e has become s o

flab itual to them as to prove to o p ower ful even fo r their n a
, «
’
0 Ka y s C afi r aria .
476 U NI V ER S A L T R AVE L L ER .
SO U T H E R N A F RIC A .
t io n a l characteristic o f sel f interest T hey h ave oxen in abu n -

.
d ance but seldom use any fo r food T heir lands overflo w

, .
w ith mil k and butter which they scarcely ever taste ,

Win e .
i s produced by many and easily produced by all ; yet this ,

they rare ly d rink Mutton bad bread and vegetables stewed
.
, ,
in sheep s fat con s tit ute their fare Eve ry thin about them
’
,
.
m ani fests the utmos t wretchednes s where com ort m ight be ,

a s ily enj o yed had they but industry to make themselves
fi PPY
a
,
T his indolence is occasioned by the fa cility with which Hot

ten tOt sl aves are obtained ; and a boor has generally twenty
or thirty o f these poor creatures r unn in about him though ,
he has not em p loyment fo r more than our or five e x cept in “
harvest time T h e consequence is that his sons and daughters

.
,
h ave no occasion to put their h ands to any work and being
des titute o f intellectual attainment s they lounge about or , ,
sleep durin gthe gre ater part o f the day T hus their y ears
, .
r oll on in m i serable listlessness .
T he boors treat their Hottentots with great se verity ; and

there is scarcely an act o f cruelty in the history o f West India
s lavery that has n o t its p arallel in their cond uct C utting .
,
with the ch a mbos a kin d o f whip m ade from the hide o f th e
,
rhinoceros which is pliable and almost as heavy as lead is
, , ,
cons idered a slight chastisement ; firing s mall shot into their
legs has been used as a punishment fo r trifling o ffences ; and
li fe itsel f has not un fr equently been sacrificed by these brutal
m asters S uch is the general character o f the Dutch boors ;
.
_
happily it does not apply to every individual ; some fe w are

,
to be met with in whom a spirit o f industry and economy are
,
c ombined with unbounded hospitality a fi r m adherence to ,
truth and a great respect fo r religion
,
.
T he Hottentots consist o f several tribes a s the C o lo n i a l Ho t ,

t en tots or such as live within the colony o f the C ape o f Good
,
Hope ; the B osj es m a ns or Wild Hott en tots who occupy part o f ,
the mountains on the north o f the colony ; the Cor r a nn a s or
C o r r a ns who dwell north o f the Bosj esm ans ; and the N a m a
,
u a s who dwell partly in the northwest district o f the colony
q , ,
and spread b eyond it .
T h e C o loni a l Ho t t en to ts or Qu m g u a as they call themselves

’
, , ,
are descendants o f the aborigines o f th e country In their .
persons these Hottentots are tolerably well proportioned and

, ,
erect Their heads feet and j oi nts are small and their no
.
, , ,
dies a r e delicately formed ; but their general appearance is
feminine T heir countenance however is any thing but h and
.
, ,
s ome ; the head very fl at ; cheek bones prominent and high ; -
c hin pointed ; eyes o f a d eep chestnut color long narro w and , , ,
dist a nt from each other ; eyelids rounded like those o f th e

Chinese ; and the complexion where not concealed by a thick ,
c oat o f grease and dirt o f a yello wish brow n r e s emb lin that
, ,
v
o f a Europ ean in on e o f th e last sta ges o f j aundice : suc a re

478 NIVER S AL TRA V ELLER
U .
SO U T H E R N A F RIC A .
r iors ; and endure pain w ith great fortit ude Whoever trave ls .
a mong them may be su re o f finding food and lo d ging suc h

, ,
a s they have to bestow ; and thou h they will receive presents
,
they ask fo r nothing O f their w i lin gn e s s to receive instru o
.
tion and their apti tude to learn ample testimony is given by

, ,
the Christian missionaries who since the commencement o f , ,
the present century have been s ettled amon them b y Bri tis h
,
b e n vo len c e ; and whose labors have met wit most promising
e
r es ‘lts .
T he B osj es m a ns or B us h m an are am o n gth e lowest ranks o f

, ,
hu man b ei ngs ; their rugged haunts and their valor have ,
reserved their independence and the most confirmed hatred ,
a s long subsisted b etween them and the colonists upon ,
whom they o ften make inroads carry o ff their sheep and cat ,
tle and kill the boors who go out fo r the express purpose as
, , ,
the E nglish gentry go out to shoot wil d fowls or hares .
T he name o f these people has been derived from two

sources ; first their practice o f attacking their enemies and their
,
prey fi o m be hind a bush ; secondly from their h abit o f nestling
'
,
in bushes T he stature o f the Bosj esmans is considerably
.
b elow that o f th e other Hott entots fe w attaining four feet and

s ix inc h es Their p hysiognomy ha s the same ch aracteristic
.
features with the coloni al tribe but their eyes are vastly °
more wild and animated and t heir whole countenance is more ,

expressive exhi b iting str ong symptoms o f suspicion and a p
,
prehension T hey are in general so miserably lean that
.
,
t heir skin hangs in fol d s ; and their women are i f possible more , ,
ugly than those o f the colony S loth seems to be inherent in .
these people ; but if once this propensity be so far subdued

th at they commence an undertaking they pursue it with bold ,
n ess ,
with cunnin g and with pertinacity till it is a c c o m
, ,
p li s h e d T hey
. are great cowards and ne v er stop to meet a n ,
adversary in the open field ; a single musket shot will put a
.
h un d red o f them to flight ; and whoever rushes upon them

with a good stick in his hand has no reason to fear any r e ,
s i s ta n c e from ever so large a number T o aim their p oisoned .
a rrows at an unarmed person from some secure hid i ng place

i s the only mode o f making war A mong themselves strength .
,
a lone is the arbiter o f their di fferences and even the family

compact is not binding T he s tronger sometimes takes both .
the wi fe and the weapons o f the weaker who is then l e ft with ,

o u t redress T he sight o f the Bosj esmans is v e quick
.
,
from constant exercise in disco vering the obj ects o f c o d at a
d is t ance ; but their taste smell and feeling are highly de , , ,
fe c ti v e ; no disgust is evinced by them at the most nauseou s

k inds o f food ; and they appear to be little sensible o f th e
c h an ges o f temperat ure Wi th their envenomed arrows they
.
,
c an strike with great precision those wild beasts whos e

, ,
s tr en gth and swi ftn es s woul d otherwi se be an overmatch fo r

th em . T h e e ffect o f th e p oison is s o ra p id that they ar e S ure ,
U N IV ER S AL T RAVELLER . 479
T HE BOSJ E S MAN S— C O R A N N A S .
to find the animal d e a d /o r dying w ithin a quarter o f an hour ,
a ft e r it has been touched T o cut out the poisoned part and .

,
to be n to devour the prey are acts which follow each other

'
with fie utmost rapidity ; nor is the s p ot quitted until the last

,
bone is picked .
a T he Bosj esm an has n o s ettled h a bi ta ti on his wh ole l i fe I S

spent in wandering from place to place rarely pas sing two ,
s uccessive nights on the same spot He is fond o f tak i n g up .
h is abode in caverns among the mountains or in cle ft s o f the ,
r ocks i f i n the plain h e gets into the middle o f a bush and

, ,
bending the boughs around him makes them serve as a de ,

fence against enemies or wild beasts or h e digs a hole in the ,
around a fe w inches deep and o f an oval shape and wra pped
, , , ,
i n a sheep s skin buries himsel f within it

’
,
In the hot season .
o f the year he stretches himsel f in the bed o f a river under

, ,
t h e shade o f the mimo sas the branches o f whic h he draws ,

aroun d him as a screen from the sun and wind .
A s these people live by destruction all their ingenuity is ,
employed in preparing weapons by which it m ay be e ffected .
T heir bows and arrows and the poison by which the latter ,
ar e armed display considerable art

,
T heir whole stock o f .
o ther u tensils consists only o f a fe w tortoise shells ostrich ,

e ggs and gourd s
,
T hey usually eat their flesh raw ; or if
.
,
they cook it they only warm it and apply their teeth to it the
, ,
moment it is taken o il the embers T h eir beverage is water ”
.
,
which they always drink from the running stream T hey .
are however n o t much accustomed to drink and will remain

, , ,
whole days without any liquid passing their lips ; as a s ub s ti
tute they chew the fe w succulent plants with which their bar
,
ren soil supplies them ; and their food is eaten without salt .
A lthough the Bosj esm ans are so e x tse m ely voracious th at

hal f a dozen o f them will devour a fa t sheep in an hour they ,
can endure surprising fasts o f several days continuance ,

’
.
Mere sloth is sometimes the m otive o f this abstinence and ,

they would rather resist the cravings o f the stomach and e n .
,
d e a v o r to sleep them away than m ake any bodily exertions ,

to satis fy them .
S everal attempts to civilize these people h ave been m ade by

the missionaries but hitherto without success , .
T he Car a n n a s or C o r a ns who dwell n orth o f the Bosj es

, ,
mans and are perpet ually at war with them are represented
, ,
as a mild and well disposed race descended from the oldest-
,
inhabitants o f this part o f A fr ica They live in small vil .
lages called kr a a ls composed o f huts o f hemispherical form

, ,
.
T hey much resemble the C olonial Hotte ntots but their cheek ,
bones are less prominent and th eir faces more oval T hey ,
.
are also more voluptuous deficient in bodily stren gth given , ,

to idle ness little interested fo r others and not renowned fo r
, ,
m artial courage T heir clothing consists o f a mantle o f pre
.
p ar ed s kin either bullock s or antelo p e s and it o fte n h as

’ ’
, ,
480 NIVER S AL T R A VELLER U .
SO U T H ER N A F RIC A .
fi gures o f various kinds scraped upon the hairy side T he

d ecorate their ears necks and arms with ornaments which
.
, , , ,
t hey purchase from the neighboring tribe o f Beetjuans .
T hey are much celebra te d fo r training oxen both fo r ridin g ,

a n d draught a n d the Beetjuans purch as e the former o f them
; .
T he s e animals trot or gallop excellently we ll and clea v e ,

.
space o f ground without urging in a short time On di s , ,

.
m ounting t h e rider always has the animal led about fo r a fe w

,
minutes that he m ay cool gradually T he bridle is fas tened
, .
to a piece o f wood passed thro u gh the c artilage o f the nose , ,

a n d a sheep s or goat s skin serves fo r a saddle T he C oran
’ ’
.
n a s apply themselves but little to agriculture S ome skins .
and m ats on which they sleep leathern knapsacks and v es

, , ,
sels re s embling cans cut out o f a solid piece o f wood with , ,
c alabashes and bamboo ca n es compose the whole o f their ,
furniture Most o f them c arry a B eetj ua n kni fe in a case
.
slung round their necks with a small leathern bag or the shell , ,
o f a tortoise fo r a pipe tobacco and flint O f tobacco and ,
.
, ,
ardent spirits they are extremely fond and m ay be won to ,

a ny purpose b them T hey also find great pleasure in dan .
cing T hey o ten shi ft their resi d ence always carrying with
.
,
them the sticks and mats o f which their c abins are built .
T hese with their fe w h ousehold goods bein expeditiously

, ,
packed in a sm all compass on the backs 0 their oxen a ,

whole village is struck and in m arch in a fe w m i nutes T he .
richest man in the kraal is leade r o f the party and spokesm an ,

o n all occasions but he possess es no j udicial right over the
,
rest T he e ff orts o f the missionaries have been equally u n
.
availing here as among the Bosj esmans ,

-
.
T he N a m a qu a s inh abit both banks o f the Orange River ,

n ear its j unction with the sea and are pertinacious adherents ,
to the customs o f their fore fathers T hey di ffe r little from .
o ther Hottentots except that they are gene r ally taller and
,
more active as well as more advanced in th e arts o f li fe such
, ,
as the construction o f huts the rearing o f cattle and other , ,
simple labors S ome o f the females while young h ave ele
.
, ,
g ant figures but an old Namaqua

,
woman is altogether dis
usting Cattle are their chie f wealth ; and in the wars and
.
is s e n s i o n s wh ich are frequent among them the great o h

, ,
ec t is t o seize each other s herds Hunting is pursued in the ’
j .
usual A frican method : the whole kraal turns o ut and having ,

surrounded the ame they contract the circle till they bring
all within a s m afispace and can kil l them with their spears
, ,
.
,
T he houses o f the N a m a q u a s are hemispheres about ten or ,
twelve fe et in diameter compo se d o f a frame work o f sticks -
T he latter is m anu facture d

,
and covered with sedge m atti n
by the women w h o also build t e houses milk the cows a nd
, , ,
d i up wild roots fo r food T heir principal drink is milk a nd the

o n%y fermented liquor they h ave is made from honey
,
.
When ,
.
a man wish es to marry he p urchases his bride o f her p are nts , ,

P 471
. .
U N I VER S AL T RAVELLER . 48 1
C EN TR A L AFRIC A .
fo r cattle and some are also slaughtered fo r a feast Wh e n

,
.
a youth h as grown up to manhood his neck and head are e n ,

v elo p e d with th e fat o f an anim al slaughtered fo r the occa
s i on which he must wear till it gradually drops o ff
,
S everal .
in cisions are also m ade on his breast with a sh arp in s tru

ment ; and a feast o f milk concludes this first day s c er e m o ’
ny . T he youn g man continues eight days under the shed in

which this initiation h as be en per formed takin nothin but ,
milk for his sustenance ; a dance then takes p ace an the ,
entrails o f the a nimal slain at the commencement o f the cere ~

mony h aving been dried and reduced to powder are mixed
, ,
with water an d he is rubbed all over with them and declared
, ,
to be a m an in the presence o f the whole kraal A ll W h O d O
,
.
'
not submit to this rite are despised and allowed to eat only ,
with women When a m an first kills an elephant a sea cow

.
,
-
,
or a rhinoceros he receives peculiar honors ; and ri ngs
, ,
m ade o f the animal s entrails are put upon his arms and ’
, ,
constantly worn a fterwards A strong a ffection appears to .
exist here between parents and their children Old age is .
c ommon among them When a father dies his eldest son i n .

,
h er it s t h e whole property i f the other sons get any thing it ,
is only by fighting fo r it ; and in all c ases the widow is le ft
destitute o f any share S omething like witc h cra ft is in use .
am ong these people ; they practice many supers titions over

t heir sick and bury their dead in round holes
, .
Within the last twelve or fourteen years so me missionary ,

stations h ave been established among these people wi th m ore ,
succes s than could h ave been expected A t m ost o f these .
places the population h as become stationary the ro u nd is

, ,
cultivated substantial houses as well as places 0 worship
, , ,
h ave been built ; the latter are attended with decorum and ,
the C hristian S ab b ath is respected * .
6 . C E N T RAL AFRICA .
Central A frica sometimes called N igr itia or N egr o lan d c c

, , ,
c u p ie s a wide extent o f country and embraces numerous ,
states or kingdoms the principal o f which are B ornou B eg
, , ,
harmi Mandara L o ggu n the Fellatah kingdom T imbuctoo
, , , , ,
B o r go o Y o u r ib a Bambarra & c
, , ,
.
O f these B O R N O U appears to be the most important s o v e

,
é
r e i gn ty and the best known

, It lies west o f the lake T chad .
and east o f Houss a between 1 0° and 1 5 N lat It forms a n

,
° . .
extensive plain stretchi n g 200 miles along th e western shore

,
o f the immense lake already mentio n ed and nearly the s am e
,
d i s tance inland .
AS p in
’
s C os mo r am a.
T he Bornou estimated by Maj or Denham at

p op u la ti on of ,
souls is composed o f a great diversity o f races and
,
tri bes ; and no fewer than ten di fferent dialects are spoken in
the empire T he B o r n o u es e or K an o wr y as they call them
.
, ,
selves are characterized by a large unmeaning face with th e
, ,
negro nose wide mouth good teeth and high forehead
, , .
T hey are peaceable quiet and civil ; they s alute each other
, ,
with courteousnes s and warmth ; a n d there is a remarkably
good natured heaviness about them T hey are no warriors
-
.
,
b ut revenge ful ; and the best o f them are given to petty lar
c e n i s on every opportunity that o ffers T hey are extremely
timi g
.
“T he women are particul arly cleanly but not good looking

,
they h ave large mouths very thick lips and high foreheads , , .
T he manner o f dres sing their hair is also very unbecoming .
It is brought over the top o f the head in three thick rolls j oining ,
in front in a point and thickly plastered with indigo and bees
,
wax Behind the point it is wiry very finely platted and turn
.
, , ,
ed up like a drake s tail T he ta ttoos common to all negro
’
.
,
nations in these lati tudes and by which their country is i n ,
s t a n tly known are here particularly unbecoming T he B o r '
.
,
n o u e s e have twenty cuts or lines on each side o f the face ,
drawn from the corners o f the mouth towards the angles o f
the lower j aw and cheek bone T hey have also one cut in the -
.
centre o f the forehead six on each arm six on each leg and , ,
thigh four on each breast and nine on each side just above
, , ,
the hips ” “.
”
It is quite distressing s ays Maj or Denham to “
, ,
witness the torture the poor litt le children u ndergo who are ,
thus marked ; enduring not only heat but the attacks o f mil ,
lions o f flies ” They are the most humble o f females never ,
.
approaching the ir husbands excep t on their knees or speak ,

ing to any o f the male sex otherwise than with the head and ,
face covered and kneeling ,

.
In their m n n er of li v in g the B o r n ou e s e are simple in th e

a ,
extreme Flour m ade into a paste sweetened with honey

.
, ,
and with fa t poured over it is a dish fo r a sultan T he use o f ,
.
bread is n o t known ; little wheat there fore is grown Indeed , ,

.
,
it is found only in the houses o f the great B arley is also .
scarce ; a little is sown between the wheat and is used when , ,
bruised to take o ff the brackish taste o f the water T he grai n

,
.
most in use among th e people o f all classes and u pon which ,

also animals are fe d is gu s ob a species o f millet T he poor
,
s ,
.
people will eat it raw or parched in the sun and be s atisfied ,
w ithout any other nourishment fo r several days together .
Bruised and steeped in water it forms the travelling stock o f ,
a ll pilgrims and soldiers .
T he r ice o f Bornou is o f an in ferior quality ; what is u sed is

brought from S oudan Indian corn cotton and indigo are the .
, , ,
most valuable productions o f the soil ; the latter grow wild .
close to the T chad and in the inundated grounds T he senn a

,
.
p lant is also found wild and in abundance T here is

,
probably .
434 U N IVER S AL T R A VE L LER .
c
”
ity s ays Major Denham certainly tended more s tr o ngly to
, ,
c onvince us o f the power o f its former sul tans tha n any o f the
t ales we have heard o f their magni fi cence ” .
B E G HAR M I is a large and ferti le region north o f Bornou Of .
its in h ab it a n t s li t tle is known , excepting that they are in ferior,

x
b o th in number and civilization , to their southern neighbors .
With the latter they carry on a continual war fare, the chie f
obj ect o f which is to procure slaves , which they send into
E gypt a n d Fezzan Maj or Denham s ays that the B e gh ar m i
.
c a y a lr y are individually strong and fierce , and that both riders

and horses are still more thoroughly cased in mail than those
o f Bornou ; but their courage when b rought to the proo f i s , ,
rarely on a level .
M AN D AR A lies south o f Bornou Its c apit al i s Mora 1 80 .

,
miles from Kouka T he people di ffer in appearance from
.
the B o r n o u es e and the di fference is all in their favor The

,
.
men are intelli gen t and lively with high though flat foreheads , , ,
large sparkling eyes nose inclined to aquiline and featu res
, ,
altogether less flattened than in the B o r n o u es e with wiry
curled hair T he women are proverbial fo r their goo d
.
“
”
looks their Hottentot protuberance o f form and delight fully
, ,
sm all hands and feet ; and as these are all es teemed a r ec o m
m e n d atio n in the eye o f a Turk Mandara slaves obtain an ,
advanced pric e — O f the iron found in all the Mandara hills ,
the natives m ake hinges small bars and a sort o f hoe used
to weed the corn which they send fo r sale to the towns o f
,
,
Bornou .
L lies east o f Man dara u pon the S hary a river which

O G GU N , ,
flows into the river Tchad It is a rich cou n try abounding in
grain and cattle and diversified with forests o f lo fty acacias
.
, ,
and with many beauti ful shrubs Its capital is Ker m uck which .
, ,
according to Maj or Denham co n tains at least lubabi
,
.
“
tants They speak a language nearly B e gh arm i ” T hey .
ar e a much handsomer race than the B o r n o u e s e and fa r more ,

i ntelligent ; the women particularly s o In their carriage and .
manner they struck Maj or Denham as superior to any negro

,
nation he had seen Modesty h owever is not among their
.
,
virtues ; they are m o s t ex p e r t thieves ; and they are pronoun
c e d altogether the cleverest and the most immoral race that ,
the above traveller had met with in the black country Both .
sexes are industrious and labor at the lo o m more regularly .
than in any part o f the sheikh s dom inions A lmost every ’

.
house h as its rude machinery fo r weaving and the finer an d ,

closer linen is here produced : the width however is inva r ia , ,
b ly the s ame a s l th e B o r n o u e s e g u bka not excee di ng s ix o r ,
s even inches T he free people usually per form this labor

.
,
while the female slaves prepare the cotton and give it th e ,
dee p blue dye s o much es tee me d by their in comparab le indi ,
U N IV ER S AL TR AVELLER . 485
FE LL A TA HS .
go .Th ey have a metal currency here o f “ a singular d es c rip ~

tion : it co n sists o f thin plates o f iron something in the ,
shape o f the tip w ith which they shoe race horses ; these a r e
,
m ade into parcels o f ten or twelve according to the weigh ,

and thirty o f these parcels are equal to ten r o tto la or a d o llar ’
, .
Th e F ELL AT AH kingdom or territory lies west o f Bornou ,

a n d c omprises Houssa Ze gz e g Kano G ash n a & c , , , ,
.
Ho us a is itsel f an extensive region comprehending several

s ,
mi n or states T he inhabitants are ne groes but not quite black
'
.
, ,
very intelligent and distinguishe d by their skill and industry
,
.
T hey manu facture large quantities o f cotton and can dye all ,
c olors but scarlet T he governme n t is despotic and the p o

.
,
lice well m aintained T he revenue o f the state ari se s from .
an impost on l and and merch andise ; from which last foreign ,

merchants are e x empt as an encouragement fo r them to r e ,
s ort thither : a n evident proo f th at these people are aware o f
what constitutes the true riches and strength o f a nation .
T he Ho us s a n s are distinguished from other ne roes by more

i nteresting countenances T heir nose is sma ]gbut not flat . .
T heir character is mild and their m anners are courteous , .
T hey are extremely fond o f dancing singing and all kinds o f , ,
a m u s e m nts in which the fe males excel T hey accompa ny

their s ié dn g with a small instrument made o f a gourd with
, .
, ,
a skin stretched over it like a drum T he army contains fro m .
seventy thousand to eighty thousand c avalry and one hun ,

d red thousand in fantry armed with m atchlocks and bows , .
A fe w miles east o f Houssa the capita l o f the country gold is , ,

obtained and s ought fo r in the night For this purpose they
,
.
,
cover the legs o f their camels to protect them from snakes ; ,
and taking a bag o f s and m ark with it the places on the sur
, ,
face o f the ground which glitter ; they a fter w ards collect the
s oil and carry it to the refiner who separates the precious
, ,
m etal and sometimes extracts an ounce o f gold from a h u n
,
dred weight o f earth .
K a no is a highly cultivated , populous district or province .
T h e c apital o f the same name is situated in lat 1 2 N and i s .

°
.
now as it was six hundred years ago the chie f commercial

, ,
city o f Houss a and o f all C entral A frica During his first
, .
j ourney C apt C lap p e r to n visited this city the population o f

,
.
,
whi ch b e estim ated to be b e t w een
~
and Its m ar
ket he represen ts as the greatest s cene o f commercial tr ans
actions ih A frica B ut the busiest scene is the slave m a r k e '
c o mpos e d o f two l ong r a nges o f sheds one fo r m ales an fi

.
, ,
another fo r fe m ales T hese poor creatures are seated in rows .
,
decked out fo r ex hibition ; the buyer scrutinizes them a s
n icely as a purchaser with us does a horse inspecting th e
to n g ue teeth eyes and limbs making t h em cough and per
, , , ,
form various movements to ascertain i f there be any thin g ,
un s ound ; and in case o f a b lemis h ap p earing or eve n wi th ,
*
41
48 6 U N IV ER S AL TR A V EL L ER .
C E N TR A L AF RIC A .
o ut assigning a reason he may return them wi thin thr ee ,

days A s soon as the slaves are sold the ex poser gets b ack
.
,
t heir fi nery to be employed in ornamenting others
, Most of .
t h e c aptives purch ased at Kano are conveyed across the d e s

ert during which their m aster s endeavor to keep up their
,
s pirits by an assurance that o n passing its boundary they
, ,
will be set free and be dressed in red w hich they account , ,
the gayest o f colors S upplies however o ften fail in this .
, ,
dreary j c urney — a want felt first by the slaves many o f whom
, ,
perish with hunger and fatigue Mr C lap p er t o n heard the . .
do le ful tale o f a mother who had seen her child dashed to the
‘
ground wh ile she hersel f was compelled by the lash to dr a g

,
on an exh austed frame Yet when at all tolerably treated .
they are very gayf —a h observation generally made in regar d

,
to slaves ; but this ga yety arisi n g only from the absence o f ,

thought probably conceals much secret wretchedness
, .
B ox i n g in Houssa like wrestling in Bornou for ms a favor , ,

-
t
ite exercise and the grand national spectacle ,

Mr Clapper . .
ton having heard m uch o f the f a n cy o f Kano intimated

, ,
his willingness to pay fo r a per form ance which was forthwith ,
arranged T he whole body o f butchers atte n ded and acted
.
,
as masters o f the ceremonies ; while as soon as the tiding s ,
s pr ead girls le ft their pitchers at the wells the market people
, ,
t hrew do w n their baskets an d an immense crowd was a s ,
s embled Th e ring being formed and drums beat the per
.
, ,
formers first came forward singing p ly in their muscles like ,
a musician tuning his instr ument and e a c calling out to the ,
b ysta n ders “ I am a hyena ; I am a lion ; I c an kill all th at
,
O ppose me
” A fter about twenty h a d shown o ff in this m an
.
ner they came forward in pairs weari n g only a leathern

, ,
girdle and with their hands mu ffled up in numerous folds o f

,
country cloth It w a s fir st ascertained th at they were not
.
mutual friends a fter which they closed with the utmost fury , ,
aiming their blows at the most m ortal parts as the pit o f t h e ,
s tomach beneath the ribs ,
or under the ear ; they even en ,
»
d e a v o r e d to scoop out the eyes so that in spite o f every pre ,

c aution the m atch o ften terminates in the d e ath o f one o f the
,
combatants Whenever Mr C la p p er t o n saw the a ffair v er g
. .
ing to such an issu e he gave orders to st o p ; and a fter seeing , ,

s ix pairs exhibit pa i d the hire and broke up the meeting ,
.
T he most populous city seen by C la p p er to n in the interio r

o f A frica is S o cc a too the c apital o f the Fellatah dominions , ,
which stan ds on a river dividing G ashna from Kano T he .
houses in this city stand more closely together than in most

other towns o f Houssa and are regular well built stree ts ,
.
It i s surrounded by a wall twenty or thi r ty fe et high with ,

twelve gates which are punctually shut at sunset Th e d well
,
.
i ngs o f the princi p al inhabitan ts are cl usters o f cottages and

fl a t roo fed houses in the Moorish style enclosed by high
-
, ,
wa lls T h ere ar e two mosques one o f whic h then in pro gres s

. , ,
488 U NIVE R S A L TR A V E L L ER .
WE S TE R N AFRIC A .
The population he estim ates a t only or which

n o t being in proportion to a town three miles in circum ferenc e
is probably u nderrated It i s a place o f great commerce e s .
,
p e c i ally in salt T he population consists in Moors and N e

.
groes T hey are represented as much attached to their nativ e

.
country and possess great ease and suavity o f m anners

, .
T hey are in general a stout healthy race and grease them , ,

s elves to make their skins smooth and shiny T he females .
are represented as very handsome Both sexes m ake in c is .
ions ih their faces and stain the m blue T he usual dress is

,
.
a b lue nank een frock or s hirt reachin g a little below the , ,

knees T he people are dirty but very fond o f ornaments
wearing brass rings on their fingers and in their ears ; a n d
,
.
d ancing is their favorite amusement T hey measure time by .
d ays weeks and lunar months ; yet fe w o f them can tell their
, ,
own age E very three m onths they hold a festival o f two or

.
three days continuance ; but observe no sabbath ; neither

’
have they temples churches mosques or rel i gious c er em o

, , ,
n ies nor even obs equies fo r the dead
* in
.
,
7 . WE S TERN A F RICA .
Western A frica includes a great extent o f country a nd um ,

der the general d ivisions o f S enegambia Guinea C ongo A n , , ,
ola and B enguela comprehends many subdivisions and i n ~
,
e p en d e n t states T o minutely s urvey even a m oiety o f these

.
,
a fter th e wide range we h ave taken would tax the time and ,
patience o f our fellow travellers beyond civility Like our .
selves we are willing to fancy them if not actually weary at

, , ,
least willing to rest and indulging a n i ncreasin g desire to look

,
once more upon our n ative la nd .
We will there fore relieve our friends h aving briefly turn

, , ,
ed their atte n tion to two or three kingdoms which have
attracted the a ttention o f travellers more than others on a c ,
cou n t o f greater improvements n oticed among them than in ,
any other portion o f Western A frica .
T he first o f these is the kingdom o f D a h om ey lyin g north o f ,
the gul f o f Guinea and eas t o f A sh antee T he capital is A bo

,
.
m ey about 1 80 miles in the interior

,
Mr Norris some years . .
,
s ince visited this country to observe the character and pos i

,
tion o f this remarkable people and to m ake arrangements fo r ,
the benefit o f the English trade He arrived at the capital at .
appalling season that o f the annual cus toms when th e great

, ,
men assembled from every qu arter o f the kingdom ; and h e

was truly astonished to see those fierce and warlike chi e f
0 D i s co ve ry an d Adven tur es in Africa .
D A H O M EY .
tai ns whose very name spreads terror throughout A fric a

, ,
p rostrating themselves be fore the monarch flat on the ground , ,

a n d piling dust on their heads in token o f the most abj ec t
s ub m ission T his homage is yielded not from fear but from
.
, ,
a blind and idolatrous veneratio n which m akes them regard ,

their king in the light o f a superior being In his name they .
r ush to battle and encounter their foes with S partan intrepid

,
“
One o f them s aid to Mr Norris I th i n k o f my kin
i ty . .
,
”
a n d then I dare engage five o f the enemy mysel f He ad .
“
ed my head belongs to the king and not to mysel f ; i f he
, ,
p lease to send fo r i I am ready to resign it ; or i f it be shot

through in a battle am satisfied since it is in his service ” .
, ,
T he m ain obj ect contemplated in this national anniversary is ,
that the king may wa ter the graves o f his ancestors with the
b loo d o f human victims T hese are nume r ous consisting o f.
,
p risoners taken in war o f condemne d criminals and

,
o f many ,
s e w ed by lawles s violence T he c aptives are brought out in
'
s uccession with their arm s pinioned ; and a f el ts /

,
Le er laying
,
h is hand upon the devoted head utters a fe w m agic words , ,
w hile a nother from behind wit h a large cimeter severs it , ,
from the bo d when shouts o f applause ascend from the sur
r ounding m titu d e A t any time when the king has a mes
.
s age to convey to his deceased relations he delivers it to o n e ,
o f h i s subj ects then strikes o ff his head that he may carry

, ,
it to another world ; and i f any thing further occurs to h im
a fte r he has per formed this ceremony he delivers it to anothe r ,
messenger whom he despatches in the s ame m anner
,
.
A nother grand obj ect o f this periodic al festival is the m arke t

fo r wives A ll the unmarried females throughout the king
.
dom are esteemed the property o f the sovereign and are ,

b rought to the annual customs to be placed at his dispos al ,
.
He selects fo r himsel f such as appear most b eauti ful and e h

g aging and retails
,
the others at enormous prices to his chie fs
a n d nobles No choice on this occasion is allowed to the ur
.
chaser ; in return fo r his twenty thousand cowries a w i e is ,

h an ded out and even i f she be old and ugly he must rest
, ,
contented ; nay some it is s aid h ave in mockery been pre
, , ,
s ented with their own mothers T he king usually keeps his .
wives up to the number o f three thousand who serve him in ,

various capacities — being partly trained to act as body guard -
,
r egularly regimented and equi pped with drums flags bows , , ,
and arrows while a fe w carry muskets T hey all reside in
, .
the palace which consists merely o f an immense assemblage

,
o f cane a n d m u d tents enclosed by a high wall T he sculls
,
.
an d j a w —bones o f enemies slain in battle form the favorite o r

n a m e n t o f palace and temples T he king s apartment is ’
.
p aved and the walls a n d roo f stuck over with these horrid
,
t rophies ; and i f a further supply appears desirable he an ,
n t n c es to his general that
’
“ his house wants thatch whe n ”

ag aar fo r that purpose is im mediately undertaken .
,
T h e mo s t p o wer ful kin gdo m ho we ver in all Wes ter n Afr i , ,

'
490 U N IVER S AL TR A V E L L ER .
WE S TE R N A FRIC A .
c a, is that o f As h a n t ee It is 8 00 miles in length, and 350 in

.
breadth lying west o f Da h omey Its population i s estimated

,
.
at without reckoning the tributary nation s which a r e ,

twenty two in n umber T he capital is C oom a s s i e T his was
-
. .
visited by Commissioners o f the British Government i n 1 8 1 7 ,

to adjust some dissensions which h ad arisen .
Great was the surprise o f these commissioners at the u n

expecte d splendor o f the capital T he h ouses though lo w .
, ,
and constructed only o f wood were pro fu s ely covered with ,
ornaments a n d sculpture T he array o f the caboceers great
.
,
war chie fs was at once brilliant da z zling and wild T hey
-
, , ,
.
were loaded with fine clothes in which variously colored

threads o f the richest foreign silks were curiously interwoven ;
and both themselves and their horses were covered with dec
orations o f gold beads Moorish charms or amulets pur
, , ,
chased a t a high price and the whole intermingled with
,
S trings o f human teeth and bones Leopards skins sea shells .
’
,
-
,
elephants tails eagle and ostrich feathers and brass bells
’
, , ,
were a mong the favorite ornaments On being intr oduced to .
the king the E nglish found all these embellishments crowded

,
and concentrated on his own person and that o f his attend
ants who were literally oppressed with large masses o f solid
,
gold E ven the most common utensils were composed o f that
.
metal A t the same time , the executioner with a hatchet on

.
his breast and the executi on stool clott ed with blood gave a
,
-
,
th orou ghly savage character to all this pomp The manners .
o f the king however were marked by a dignified courtesy ;

, ,
he received the strangers cordially and desired them to com e ,
and speak their palaver in the market place -
.
During their stay at Coomassie the commissioners wit ,
n es s e d dread ful scenes which seem to sink the A shantee

,
character even below the ordinary level o f s avage li fe T he .
c us tom s or human sacrifices

,
are practised on a scale sti ll
,
more tremendous than at Dahomey T he king h ad lately s a .
c r ifi c e d on the grave o f his mother 3 000 v ictims 2 000 o f whom ,

w ere Fantee prisoners ; and at the death o f the late sovereign ,
t h e sacrifice was continued weekly fo r three months consist ,
ing each time o f two hundred slaves T he absurd belie f here .
entertaine d tha t the rank o f the deceased in the future world

,
is decided by the train which he c arries along with him m akes ,
filial piety interested in promoting by this means the exalta , ,

tion o f a departed p arent On these occasions the caboceers
.
,
and princes in order to court royal favor o ften rush out seize
, , ,
the first person they meet and drag him in fo r s a c r ifi ce,
.
While the customs last there fore i t is with trembling step s

, ,
that any one crosses his threshold ; and when compelled to d o
s o he rushes along with the utmost speed dreading every in
, ,
s tant the murderous grasp which would consign him to death .
T he m en o f A shantee are very well made though less m us ,

c ul e r than their neighbors the F antees ; and their c o u n te
,
n a nces are fi eq uen tly aqui line T h e women are gener all y
.
492 UN IVER S AL T RAVELLER .
A F RIC A .
T o the south o f Dahomey several hundred miles and b e ,

lo w the equator lie the kingdoms o f Loango Congo A ngola
O f these L oango lies on the north
, , ,
&c .
,
It was formerly a .
p art o f the eat kingdom o f C ongo but like A ngola was dis , , ,
m embered rom it and established into a separate state , .
A uthorities di ffer considerably as to the inhabitants By .
s ome they are represente d as industrious acquainted wit h

, ,
various arts and engaged in commercial pursuits By others
, .
,
they are said to be indolent and so remarkably averse to a g ,
r ic u lt u r a l labor that they raise scarcely su ffi cient fo r the i r
,
s ub sistence Hence it sometimes happens that a bad seas on

.
,
is followed by a famine which c arries o ff vast numbers o f ,

the inhabitants In general they are satisfied with bread and
.
,
fi s h and such fruits and vegetables as the earth spontane
,
o u s ly produces .
T heir d r es s is generally o f their own manu facture consist ,

ing o f cloth made from the leaves o f the palm banana or , ,
some similar tree Persons o f the higher ra n k wear their .
clothes from th e middle to the ankles but those o f the lower ,

only to the knee T hey also adorn themselves with beauti ful
.
feathers and not un frequently suspe n d a n u mber o f little

,
bells which make a strange t inkling at every movement o f

,
the body T heir garments are bound with a rich girdle about
.
their middle T heir necks wrists and legs are ornamented

.
, , ,
with beads o f coral and ivory with shells o f beauti ful colors ,
or with chains o f various metals Over their shoulders they .

,
throw a kind o f sack knotted about three fou r ths o f a yard , ,
-
long which has a small h ole just large enough to admit the
,
’
h and and this serves also to hold their calabash pipes to

, , ,
bacco and o ther provisions T heir heads are covered with
,
.
a knotted cap which sits close upon it ; and as they never go

,
out without arms they commonly hold a bow sword or cut , , ,
lass in their hand T he dress o f the women is similar to that
,
.
o f the men except that they wear n o girdle and that their
, ,
petticoats h ang no lower than the knee Both sexes wear .
ri n gs o f the richer or coarser metals according to their rank , ,

which they regard as amulets or preservatives from injury ; ,
and both paint their bodies with a red wood called t a kes t ,
which gi ves them a fright ful appearan ce .
T he gover nm en t is truly despotical The king is master o f .
the lives o f all his subj ects S uch is their extreme ignorance .
,
t hat though their kings only style themselves m a n i or lords ,
o f Loango their subj ects not only give them the title o f M o
,
ki s s os but believe that they are endowed with a superna tural

,
power ; that they can raise storms or withhold rains render ,
the soil fruit ful or barren ; enrich or impoverish their subj ects ;
o r by a single word send myriads o f them to their graves .
Hence it is a capital o ffence to see them either eat or drink ;

,
and tr eason and rebellion are punished with the cruellest
NIVE R S AL T R A VELLERU 4 93 .
S U P ER S TITI O N — I N DO LE N C E S .
deaths T heir monarchs can brin v ast armies into the field
. .
T heir warlike weapons co n sist o the short pike bow and ,

arrow sword and dagger ; but the E uropeans and p a r tic u~
, ,
la r ly the Dutch have furnished them with fi r e arms
,
un p 0 W -
,
°
der and balls besides a variety o f kitchen utensils an several

, ,
sorts o f coarse cloths T heir targets are formed o f the hard

.
and thick hides o f the dante and are big enough to cover almost ,
the whole body and strong enough to repel an arrow or a dart
,
.
T hey entertain various extravagant O pinions respecting

the n a tu r e of th e s o ul and believe in its transmigration into
,
the bodies o f other men heroes demons and guardian spir , , ,
its A ll have grea t faith in their F etich es that is the spirit
.
,
to whom they have been dedicated at their bir th ; and they
a r e convinced that these spirits h ave power to in ict punish
fl ~
men t and even death on those who break any o f their vows
, ,
a n d engagements T o these spiri ts they address their wor

.
s hip ,
and all their invocations T o t hem they ascribe the .
p ower o f presiding over the elemen ts o f directin g the storms , ,

o f regulating the seasons and o f rendering the soil fruit ful or,
un fruitful S ome are accounted o f a benevolent others o f a
.
,
m alevolent disposition ; some are regarded as fri ends and
protectors o thers are dreaded as enemies and d estroyers ;
,
some they consult about future and others about past events ,
.
T hey worship them under a variety o f images and pay h om ,

o
age to the c o d as well as to the bad .
The inha ita nts o f this like those o f the other countries o f ,
the torrid z one are extremely indolent being almost incap a
, ,
ble o f any exer tion beyond what is absol utely ne ce ssary fo r
the preservation o f li fe T heir soil is so fertile that with a
.
, ,
littl e industry they might be independent o f the seasons and
, ,
in no danger o f bein visited by those dread ful famines by whic h ,
their country is 0 en depopulated But besides their a er .
,
v
sion to cultivate more ground than what they think sufficient

fo r their subsistence (a work which is all e r fo r m e d by their
,
wives ) they seem to be naturally formed or abstinence ; and
,
a European c annot but be aston ished when he sees them ,
c ontented and happy singing smoking and dancing in the , ,
m ost alarming scarcity Like other savages they are friendly
,
.
,
and generous to one another b u t passionate and revenge ful ; ,
v ery libidinous and j ealous o f their wives ; fond o f the pal m
,
wine and indi fferent to that of the grape Polygamy univer

, .
s ally prevails But women have little encouragement to enter

.
into a state in which they must submit to the most pain ful m or~
t ifi c ation s from m any rivals while the violent j ealousy o f the
husband reduces them to the most melanch oly servitude T o .
them is assigned the whole labor o f fi lling and manuring the

g round ; o f reapin g and gathering in the ha r vest T hey are .
al so the only persons employed in grinding the m illet and

‘
,
o ther grain ; in m aking the wi nes and other liquors ; and
m an a gin g al th e household a ff airs T hey must s tand at a
iz
.
49 4 UN IVER S A L T R A VELLE R .
A F R IC A .
d ue dis tance when the husband eats and be s atisfied with

, ,
what he chooses to leave t h em T hey must approach him . .
when he ente rs his d welling with words and gest ures expres ,
sive o f j oy and r espect ; and spe ak to him and receive h is ,
c om m and s upo n their bended knees T hey a re liable to be
, .
dis mis s ed upon the least s uspicion o f infidelity ; and i f p ro ved

guilty are subj e c te d to a severer punishment though the gallan t ,
escapes u pon paying a fine But thoug h this be the sl a vis h .
,
state o f the women the children are subj ected by a strict law
, , ,
to the condition o f th e mother T hey continue s la ve s i f the .
,
mother h e a slave although the father be free ; and they r e
,
main free if the mother be free born although the father h e a
,
-
,
slave None o f the children are allowed to inherit the father s
.
’
substance the whole descends to his elder brother or sister

, ,
wh o are obliged to take care o f his family till they are able to
provide fo r themselves .
Immediately south o f Loango lies the kin gdo m o f C o ngo , ,

which is s aid to be about 1 50 miles long and 372 broad It is ,
.
d ivided into six large provinces The inhabitants o f C ongo .

,
their color excepted which is commonly black though not , ,
un frequently also o f an olive hue h av e a great resemblance ,
to the P ortuguese T heir hair is black and finely curled ;

some have i t also o f a dark sea color T hey have neither flat
.
noses nor thick lips like the N ub i a n s a nd the most part o f

,
negroes T heir stature is m ostly o f the middle si z e T he
. .
general indolence o f their disposition is s uch as to prevent

the m in a great measure from reaping the advantages easily
within their reach fro m a soil which if d uly cultivated would , ,
yield not only t wo but s ometimes even three crops in the ,
year T hese people seem to consider it as unworthy o f them to
.
engage in any other exercises than those o f dancing leaping , ,

shooting and hunting ; or on other occasions in smokin g
and more indolent recreations ; whilst the laborious part o f
, ,
their household a ff airs as also the operations o f digging sow , ,
ing reaping and the like are le ft to the conduct o f their slaves
, , ,
or in o ther instances to that o f their wi ves ,

.
T he accounts given o f the temper a ffections and disposi , ,
tion o f mind and heart prevalent among the C ongoese are ,

very little to their honor T hey are said to be mist rust ful .
,
j ealous envious treacherous and much inclined to revenge
, , ,
.
S o devoid are they stated to be o f natural a fl e c fi o n that a ,
father wil l s ell his son or daughter or both fo r a piece o f , ,

cloth a collar or girdle o f coral or beads a bottle o f wine or
, , ,
brandy or othe r matters o f not greater intrinsic v alue or c a
, ,
pahle o f yielding a more permanent s atis faction .
T he g over n m en t o f Congo is monarchical an d as despoti c as ,

any in A sia or A frica T he property o f all the lands within .
their dominions is vested in the king who p arcels them out to ,
individuals on condition o f a certain tr i bute and o f the p e r ,

496 UN IVE R S AL T RAVELLER .
AFRIC A .
p art of their heads which they bind with a list o f cloth linen
, , ,
o r leather and confine themselves to the ho use fo r eight
,
whole days T o shed tears on such an occasion is considered
.
as a great crime and is liable to punishment even if the

, ,
culprit should be the kin g U pon the death o f the monarch .
,
persons kept in pay fo r the purpose go to all the public pl aces ,
in the cities to acquaint the people o f the fact by the mourn
, ,
ful sound o f their ivory cornets Be fore the introduction o f .
Christianity into the count the funeral obsequies o f such a

personage were celebrated y various kinds o f sacrifices and ,
superstitious cer emonies accompanie d with music howling , , ,
dancing and feasting T hese were continued fo r a week and
,
.
,
w ere resumed yearly on the anniversary o f the king s demise ’
.
It w as customary also to bury alive a certain number not ,

e xceeding twelve o f the favorite concubines o f the prince
,
o r o f the young ladies be longing to his court In s ome 0 .
t hese respects an advantageous change has taken place in

c onsequence o f that event though the e ffect has not been so ,
c omplete as to put an end to the dru n ken revels which had bee n
c ustomary on such occasions .
T he m a nn er of i n ter m ent fo r the princes and nobles is to ,

deposite the d ead body in wainscoted vaults hung with black ; ,
t w o o f the old domestics o f the parties deceased being d es
tined alternately to guard the entrance and to give them the ,
benefit o f their prayers Other prayers are in like manner to .
be o ffered up on the anniversary o f the deceas e and on A ll ,

s ouls day at which times the graves are opened and the
’ -
, ,
h angings exchanged fo r new ones .
A mongst the G i a ga s the most barbarous people o f this king

,
dom it is the custom to dance in a frantic manner about the
,
graves o f persons deceased and to b ring them food drink , , ,
and other conveniences T he dances that are per formed at .
th e funerals o f their great m e n last fo r eight days without i n ,

t e r m is s i o n upon which occasion there is al w ay s sacrificed a
,
number o f human victims .
T he n a tives of Angola a country wh ich lies south o f Congo

, ,
and which formerly belonged to it are tall and strong ; but , ,
like th e rest o f the E thiopians they are so very la z y and in ,
dolent th at although their soil is admirably adapted fo r the
, ,
r earing o f cattle and the producti on o f grain they allow both
, ,
to be destroyed by the wil d beasts with which their country

abounds T he advantages which they enj oy from climate
.
a n d soil are thus neglected except in s ome provinces which ,
a r e very ferti le and populous and which being free from , ,
b easts o f prey a fford great herds o f excellent cattle

,
What .
adds to th e mis fortune is that as the n ati ves want S pirit and ,
industry fo r cultivating the soil so the lords and petty pri nce s ,
wi ll rather permit it to lie uncul tivated than allow their sub ,
j e c t s a greater po rt ion o f it than wh a t is b arely s ufficient fo r

the mainte n ance o f their families Indee d in many o f the . .
U NIVE R S A L T RAVELLER . 4 97
A GRIC U LTUR E .
provinces south o f the C o a nz a a large river which flows i nto

,
the A tlantic the inhabitants are still in a very s av a ge state
, ,
involved in the utmost barbarity o f m anners and sunk in th e ,
m ost deplorable idolatry We are told that the people in some

.
o f these idolatrous p rovinces still feed on human flesh and ,

even pre fer it to any other ; s o that a dead slave bears a
higher price in m arket than a living one T hese cannibal s .
are in all probability descended from the barbarous race o f the

G i a ga s by whom the greater part o f th e eastern and southern
,
provinces were peopled One most inhum an custom still pre
.
vails in this part o f the ki ngdom and that i s the sacrificing a

, ,
number o f human victim s at the burial o f their dea d in tes ,
ti m o n y o fi th e respect in which their memory is held ; the
number o f these unhappy victims is there fore always in pro
ortion to the rank and wealth o f the deceased and their
podies are a fterwards piled up in a heap upon their tom b s ,
.
*
I V e shall here conclude our notices o f A frica and bring ,

our t r hv e ls to a clos e with a fe w brie f and general remark s
,
upon the s oci a l con di tion o f the inha b itants o f this portion o f
the globe .
T he native tribes o f A frica exist generally in th at stage o f

society which is denominated barbarian T hey are elevated .
above the hunti n g or savage state by the power o f t a m in g and

,
subjecting th e l o w er animals and by a certain ru de a r ic ultur e
which the fertility o f the soi l renders productive e t fe w o f .
them are nomadic and wandering like the A rabs or the T artars ;
they generally have native seats to which they cling with ,
strong feelings o f local attachment E ven the tenants o f the .
desert who roa m widely in quest o f commerce and plunder

, ,
have the i r l i ttle watered valleys or circuit o f hills in which
, ,
they m ake their permanent abode .
Agr ic u lt ur e, including pasturage forms the most important ,

branch industry in every society and more especially in one
of
,
w h e r e a llthe finer arts are yet in a state o f in fancy In A frica .
,
however both the extent o f cultivation and the processes em
,
ployed are still extremely imper fect T his is part icularly man .
i fe s t from the fact that no private property in land has been any
where established E very city o r village is encircled by an
.
un occupied domain o f forest or waste belonging to the king ,

or the state and o f which a portion is ready to b e granted to
,
any one who will undertake the labor and expense o f culti
vation ; while the rem ainder form s an immense common o n ,
which all the inhabitants have the liberty o f pasturing their
cattle There are in A frica no country seats no ru ral farm s
.
,
such as embellish the aspect o f a E uropean landscape ; a n d
which in fact could not exist in sa fety where each little state
, , ,
is begirt with hostile neighbors and so m any predatory bands
,
are prowling in every direction T he population is collected in
.
N ew Edinburgh E ncyc op edia l .

AF RIC A .
towns or large villages round which a circle o f cultivation i s

,
formed ; while beyond are pasture lands where numerous -
herds are fe d and watched by day a s well as by night T he

,
.
s pace within the walls forms a pretty wide district where , ,

even in the largest cities the h ouses are intersperse d with ,
cultivated fields and the low roo fs are seen rising behind ears
,
o f corn A ll the processes o f preparing the ground sowing
.
, ,
and rea p ing are slight and simple T he plough has not
,
.
passed the limits o f Barbary ; and perh aps in tropical climates , ,

the deep furrow which it lays open might expose the soil too
much to the parching e ffects o f a burning sun Grain is raised .
o nly by means o f the most pro fuse moisture which o f itsel f ,

so ft ens the earth A s soon as the periodical fi o o d s l h a ve del
.
u ge d the ground or the temporary river inundation has r e

,
tired the laborers walk forth one sligh tly stirs the earth with
,
a hoe while another close behind d eposites the grain F r e
, , ,
.
q uently this toil is lightene d from being per formed by the ,

whole village in common when it appears less a scene o f ,
labor th an a gay festival like our period o f reaping T he ,
.
village musician plays the most lively airs the laborers keep
time to his tune ; a n d a spectator at a little distance would
suppose them to be d ancing instead o f working .
T he p r eva i ling g r a i n s are o f an in ferior character The .
dhourra is the most common extending over all E astern A f ,

rica : while millet in the we st and te ff in A byssinia are pro , ,
d uc ti o n s nearly similar In the latter country and Houssa ,

~
.
,
both wheat and rice are raise d but only in avorable S tua
f i
tions and fo r the tables o f the most opulent Perh aps the
,
.
greatest exertion o f agricul tural ind ustry is that bestowed on

the culture o f the manioc which form s the ma i n art i cle o f food ,
in Congo and some o f the insular territories C onsiderable

,
.
c are is required in rearing it and cleaning the ground round ,

the plants a fter the roo t which is the valuable part has b een , ,
dug up it m u st be ground in a species o f m i ll and dr i ed i n

, ,
small furnaces be fore it can be used as flour

,
.
have made but little progress there h o w~

f
rkl a n u a ct u r es ; a r e,
ever certain fine fabric s peculiar to C entral A frica o f wh i ch

, ,
t h e most general is cotton cloth produced in several d i str i cts , ,
of a very beauti fu l texture d yed blue with indigo and r e c

,
e i v
,
ing from the processes employed a very brilliant gloss Leathe r .
in Houss a is dried and dyed in the s ame rich and so ft style as

in Morocco ; and probably in both cases the manu facture is , ,
’ native Mats used both fo r sitting and sleeping on are the
.
, ,
s taple manu facture in m any parts o f Western A fr i ca Go ld .
and silver ornaments are made with some taste ; and i ron i s
l
n er a yl fabricated though with a varying ,
and i mper fect
e gr e e o f skill .
T he l argest branch o f the native tr ade o f A fr i c a ori g i nates ,
in the great demand fo r salt and the lon ging d e s i re wh i ch i s .

A F R IC A .
c hiefly fo r sleep and shelter w hile the court be fore the doo r , ,
s haded b the family tre e is the sc ne o f social intercourse
and o f alymeetings fo r the purpos e s o f bus iness and gayety
e
, ,
.
Greater e ff orts indeed are made to form a co m m odious state

room o r public hall called the palaver h o use ; y et this too
, ,
-
, ,
c onsists merely o f a large a p art m ent raised o n p o st fi x ed in ,
s
the ground and roo fed with sloping planks wh ich lea e th e
, , v
interi o r o pen to th e air on every s ide T h e h o u s es a n d y ar d s

. .
o f pe r so n s in any degree opulent are enclosed by an oute r ,
wall o r hedge s o metimes pretty high serving the purpose s

, ,
both o f p r ivacy and de fence E ven t h e palaces o f the gran .
dees and o f the greatest monarc h s c o nsist o f merely a clus

, ,
ter o f thes e h o vels or cottages forming a little v illa e wit h , ,
l arge o p en s p a c es and surrounded by a comm o n wal T he
,
state hall o f the s ultan o f the Fellata s th e greatest o f the A f~
-
,
rican princes is an apartment t o whic h in C aptain C lapper
, ,
ton s opinion the term s h ed would in E urope be pro p erly a p
’
, ,
plied S lender however as is the accommodation a fforded
.
, ,
by these edifices they are liberally adorned espe cially in th e
, ,
larger citie s both with carving and painting
,
.
I f A frican h o us es be o f mean co nstruction t h e inter n a l a c ,

c o m m o d a t io n s are equally scanty E xcept the state chair s .
-
or throne s o f the monarchs ascended o nly on very solem n ,

occasions there is not throughout native A frica a s e at to sit
,
upon T h e pe ople s it o n the ground in circles ; a n d if th e
.
chie f can place beneath him the skin o f a lion or leopard h e ,

is at the height o f his pomp For a table there is at best a .
wooden bo ard whereon is neither plate kn i fe fork nor spoon ;

, , ,
the fingers being supposed fully adequate to the per formanc e

o f every fu nction I f it be necessary to separate into parts a
.
large j oint or even a sheep roasted whole the d agger or

,
‘
,
sword o f the warrior is drawn forth and very speedily a o ,
co mplishes the obj ect .
In i n t ellectu a l cultiva ti on the native tribes hav e m ade litt l e

progress A mong them there is not a tincture o f letters or
.
,
o f writing to b e found — not a hieroglyphic or symbol corres
p o n din to the painted stories o f Mexico or the knotted qui ,
p o s o f eru .
Y et t h e A fr ic a ns are not s u nk in entire mental apathy In their

'
great public meetings and palavers true eloquence is s ometime s ,

hear d T he passion fo r poe try is universal A s soon a s th e
. .
evening breeze begins to blow the song resounds through o ut ,

all A frica — it cheers the despondency o f the wanderer through
,
the desert it enlivens the social meeting— it inspires the
-
dance and even the lamentations o f the mourner are p oured

,
-
forth in mea s ured accents T heir poetry does not c o nsist in .
s tudied and regular pieces such as a ft er previous study are

“
, , ,
recited in our schools and theatre s ; they are extemporary
and spontaneous e ff usions in which the speaker gives utter ,
a nce to his h 0p es and fear s his j oys and sorrows .
,
U NIV E R S AL T RA V ELLER .
R E LI G I O N .
I n th ei r r eligi on egroes are le ft to the d im light o f

the n
n a ture . T hey h ave obj ects o f worship c alle d f eti ch es whic h ,
seem to resembl e the obi o f th e West I n d ie s fi t n d the t aboo o f
the S o uth S e a Island s Ch arms and amulets are in great u s e
.
a s a de fence from danger M ah o m et a ni s m has been intro

.
d u c ed into so me portio ns o f the continent and where it pre

'
,
vails has abolished the horrors o f hu m an s ac r ifi c e — but in all ,
other respects the introductio n o f this corrupt syste m h as
,
o nly se rved to deepen the evils unde r which A frica h as s u f
fe r e d fo r centuries But in many parts o f th is continent Mo
.
,
lo ch still exercises his cruel sway and thousands are ye arly ,
sacrifi c ed on his s anguinary altar On a s ingle occasion Mr .
,
.
Bowdich relates as we have alre ady obs erved the king o f

, ,
A shantee s acrificed o ver the grave o f h is mothe r no le s s tha n ,
3 000 victi ms What must be the state o f a pe ople wher e
s uch spiritual ignorance reigns and suc h ho r rid b ar baritie s
.
,
a r e practised as a part o f religion I
’
But thes e are no t the only evils whic h pres s upo n A fric a .
Violence and wron g have here their w idest field and c a use ,
the m os t dread ful c alamities to this part o f the human race .
A fric a has been an d still is the store house o f slavery fo r no

, ,
-
s mall portion o f the glo be Park has so me where expressed

.
the opinion that one third o f the popul ation o f A frica are held
,
-
i n bond a ge by th e othe r two thirds and yearly th ousan d s a n d -

, ,
tens o f thousands o f these ill fated beings a r e torn from hom e -
a n d country to toil fo r others and to su ffer all the pri vation s

o f a li fe o f bondage
,
S ome h ave estim ated the num b er o f
.
s laves who have thus bee n t or n a way since th e origin o f the

'
,
trade at nearly
, C e rt ain it is that m ost n ations o n ,
the globe and among the m are those who are c alled Chr is tian
, ,
a n d who a ffect to be governed by the principles o f the Bible
,
h ave participated in this un principled tra ffi c No wonder .
that the A fricans indulge such dee p rooted prej udices against -
— “
c ivilized natio ns no wo nd er that C hri stianity wit h them is ,
identified with p erfi dy and cruelty ” .
When will justice b e d one to this miserable peo ple ? T h e

p ast wro ngs o f A fric a c an indee d never be redressed
, ,
T he ,
.
millions who h ave been torn from t he land w hich they he ld

dear— from the friends whom they loved and who through ,
toil a n d s weat and stri pes h ave m ade their way to a w el
, , ,
c ome grave can never be recalle d and res to red to their rights
, ,
a n d the ir c o m forts T ha t day in respect to the m is past
.
, ,
.
But in respect to the pres ent inhabitants o f A frica justice ,

m a y be do ne B u t when ye s w h en sha ll th e day d awn tha t
.
-
,
s hall proclaim to her millions — fl
y our war fare— your bondage
is ac co m p lished t ” ’
Wh il e o n’ th e d is t an t Hindoo s h ore
M es s iah is re ared,
s c ro s s
Whi le P a an vo t ari es b o w n o more
l
Wi t h i do l ood b es m ear ed
_
A F RIC A .
“
Wh ile P ales tin e a do t h h e ar ain
T h e c ap el s j o yfu s o u n d
’
Whi e I s la m s ’cr es cen t s dis ap p e ar

’
F r o m C a lv ar y a ho ly gr o u n d
S ay Af r i c s fa t ed a n d
s h all n ot l
W it n ew s o f 0 r ace b e b’les t ?
l
s h a l n o t fi h i op i a 8 an d
’ ”
l
y t h e p r o m is ed r e s t 1 .
We are happy to believe that suc h a bright day— such a

g olden era i s reser v
,ed by P r ovi den c e fo r this lon g o p presse d
people I f th e promises o f infinite m e r cy ar e to be fulfi lle d
.
i f the heathen which h ave b een given t o Je s us a s his i n h e r i

,
tance and the utte r most parts o f the ea rt h as h is p os se ssions
,
are ultimately to come unde r h is ho ly sway then the day o f ,
light an d peace and j oy fo r A fri c a will arrive T h e voice o f
, , ,
.
liberty and j o y wi ll be hear d along its r i v ers and its lakes

disenthra lled and enlighten e d by th e word o f God A fr ic a w e
, , ,
beli eve in its habitations o f cru elty will furnish a s b e a utifui
,
dwelling p l ac e s o f r ighte o u s nes s as are to be fou nd upon th e

-
globe T h e Bo sjesman will one day com prehe n d th e maj esty

.
o f redeeming love a n d the proud and warlike A shantee b e

,
come an humble disc iple o f Jesu s The water s o f the Niger .
will yet bear u p on its bo som vess els containing the he r alds o f
the cross co m i ng to publish o o d tidings o f gr e at j oy— liberty
,
or
,
to the captive and espe cially release to those that have bee n
, ,
bound i n the c h ains o f S atan .
Nor a r e thes e gl o rious thin gs written respe cting A fric a

al on e — oth er por tions o f the globe o ver which w e h ave wan ,
dered are a s entirely u nder the despot ic influence o f S atan
, ,
as the s able sons o f Ha m B ut th e day o f universal libera .
tion will come T he pro p h eci e s and th e p r o mises o f revelation

.
c annot fail That day will dawn wh en the last c olumn erec t
.
,
ed in the temple o f ap o s tacy will fall— the long s eri e s o f sac cB
r ifi c e s and idolatrous o fferi n s will terminat e a n d t h e regen

g ,
o rated world will shin e fo rth i n a ll th e moral beauty and glor
y ,
as when G o d on the morning o f th e creation p r onounced i t
, ,
good and all th e sons o f G o d sho u te d fo r j oy
, .
When that day will arrive has n o t tra n spired from th e coun ,
sels o f G o d Muc h anteri o r to it remai n s to b e don e by th e
.
, ,
people d in all la nds wher e h e has recorded his name .
It was the remark o f a di s tinguis h ed divine at a late meeting

o f the Board o f Commissioners fo r Foreign Missions that ,
from a recent examination o f th e proph ecies he felt j ustified ,
in placing the c o mmencement o f the Millennium within 200

years What a la b o r is then indeed be fore the friends o f
.
, ,
Immanuel ! Let our readers recall those por tions o f o ur trav
els which exhibit the laws the customs the su p erstitions &c
, , , ,
:.
which i n di ff erent lands are utterly variant from the gospel

which must be abro ated and aboli s hed ere the s imple but e s .
s e n tia l truths o f C r i s tian it can exercis e their full e ffec t

y .
W h at ch ains n o w i ivete d mus t be br ok en What infl uence s

, ,
. .
504 UN IVER S AL T RAVE L L ER .
A FRIC A .
wealth accu m ulating in“ her treasury sh all be

, ,
p oured out fo r the promotion o f peace and goo

a mong all nations — when every vessel from her coast shall
c arry the missionaries o f the cross to ub lis h the glad tid ings
o f salvation on pagan shor e s and u ally when Christians
-
, ,
shall feel and pray and act as if the advancement o f the
, , ,
Redeem er s kingdom w a s their best and almost only w ork
’
May that day c ome ; and when it shall have come how d i f~
.
,
fe r e n t a story will the tr aveller tell when he shall return as
, ,
we now return from our long wanderings to our own land .
Wh at is dark and dreary in our pages wi ll in h is b e b r ight a nd

beauti ful He will h ave the p le a sur e to recor d a tr uth w hich
.
,
we h ave n o t y et fo u nd :
T HE E N D .

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The Universal Traveler: Introducing Readers to the Arts, Customs and Manners of Nations Around the Globe

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T HE

PR IN CI PAL MODER N N ATI ON S ON THE GL OBE .

PE R ONS —C H A R A CTE R—E M P L O Y M E N TS —A MU S E ME NT S —R EL I GI ON—D R ES S

A G R E A T A M O U N T OF E N TERT A I NI NG AN D I N TR UCTIV INFO R MA TI O

WHE N th e au th o r ﬁ rst an n o un ced h is i ntended e x p ed t on , ii it was

th e con t r ary sc ar c e ly h ad h e r es ted fr o m th e l ab o rs o f h is ﬁ r st to u r

p an y e v e n wa i ti n g t o atten d h im o n t h e seco n d Wi th t h e bes t en deavo rs

c ep tab l e th an th e ﬁ r s t h e h as m ad e eve ry p r ep a r ati on fo r th ei r p l eas ur e

c o ur se an d s o a m en ded h is p l a n s as to avo i d so m e p asses w h i c h

danger ous w er e tedi ou s an d un p r o ﬁ tab l e

be fo un d to b e s m ooth e r ; an d i n a ll r esp ects even th e fasti di o us t rave ll e r

p rai se and adm i re .

to ab r i dge s o m ewh at m o r e th an h e wo u l d w i s h h is a cco un t o f o th e rs ,

In gen era l h owev e r th e co u ntr i es o f wh i ch n o n o ti ce is taken a r e ei th e r

try . W ith th es e deducti on s th e auth o r ﬁ atter s h i m s e l f th at th e patr ons

o f th e w o r k w i l l fee l th at h e h as r edeem ed h is p l edge an d th at i t m ay ,

sti l l wi th s o m e p rop r i e ty b e s ty l ed T he U n iver sa l T r a veller

A s to th e s ou r ces fr o m wh i ch th em at er i a l s o f th e v o l um e h ave been

sp ec i ﬁ ed in th i s p l ace C r edit h as b een gen era l l y given i n th e b ody o f

th e wor k to a uth o rs wh ose lab o rs h ave b een u s e d T h r o ugh th e co ur .

t esy o f two o f th e l i terary soc i et i es atta ch ed t o Yal e C o l l ege t h e au th o r ,

h ad access by m eans o f th e i r l ib r ar i es to m any val uab l e wor ks

rar ely to b e m et wi th in th i s country T h ese h e h as used with freedom,

an d adop te d th ei r l an guage wh en a da p ted to h is F o r th e a rt i

knowl edging h is ob l i gati ons to a dis tingu i sh ed l i ter ary fr i en d— R ev .

c on ten ted wi th th e goo dly l an d in wh i ch th ei r l ot i s c ast— if i t s h a l l ex

c i te i n th e ir b oso m s grati tude t o th at G o d w h o h as di s ti ngui s h ed th em

fr om m i l l i on s in o th er c oun t r i es in r esp ect to th e r efo r m ing an d p eace

insp i rin g tr u th s o f th e gosp e l — an d ﬁ na l ly if i t s h al l p r omp t th em t o

ai d in s en di ng tn at gosp e l to th e m i ll i on s w h o a r e un a cqu ai n ted wi th i t ,

an d wi th th e th ou san d b l ess i n gs wh i ch sp r i n g fro m i t o n e obj ect, a n

P r o po s ed m o de v ell ing e x plai e d ; A dv an tages to b e exp e cted ; D n er s and

s uff eri n gs in c id e tal to t h e c mm o n m o d s av o id e d ; G r e at er a m o un t o f i n o r mati o n

t o b e o b tain ed ; T h e mi n d en lar ge d an d e n r ich ed ; Th e u s e ful l e ss o n o f co nt ent m e nt

P e r so nal pp ear F o o d ; D r e s s ; H a b itatio n s ;

Fo r m s an d c e r em o n ies of th e h ur ch ; e r gy ; ode o f in t er m e n t ; M ou nt H ecl a ;

E xt en t P h y s ica l s ituatio n Po p ul atio n ; R ac e s In dian s ; o s tu m e s A c ap ul co ;

Inh ab itants ; Langua e ; P e culiar it ie s of t h e p e n le of H av an a . m anner of living ;

Histo r ical and st at s ti cal acc o un t

as s es o f inh ab itan t s ; r eo e s ; L a di e s l of P er u ; Me s tiz o el l

Po p ul ation ; M ines o f P oto s i ; Q u an tity of si lv er ; P r oc e s s o f se pa rating s ilv er fr o m

L e ngth an d b r eadth o f th e co u ntr y p o s itio n an d m ann er o f th e S p ish

Po p ul atio n and e x t en t o f ; I nh ab itant s ; P eas a nts ; S an iar d s ; V al pa

I nh ab itan ts ; D r es s ; S tatur e ; a p tain M o r r e ll s ac count o f th em ’

ar ac te r o f th e I r is h ; P o v er ty ; Ho s p ital ity ; P easan tr y ; S up er s titi n o I r is h b ulls ;

P er s o na a ear an ce ; l pph ar a ct er ; o s tu m e of th e l ow e r o r d er s ; I nt e r n a l appear

Inter e s ting as s o c iatio n s ; D r e s s o f th e I t l i n ; L angua e ; F in"e ar ts ; P ub l ic b u il d

Mod er n C r e k ar ac ter D r es s ; D i t ; D an cin M us ic R eligio n ; Rit es o f th e

elli ng ; A m u a gu e ; P l ygam y ; M arr i age ; R e li g o

P er son a l app ear an c e ; N ati on a l ch ar acter ; D r es s ; F o o d ; v ll

P er sons ; C o stum es ; P easan ts ; H b it t io n s ; La nguage s ; D iet ; a a G ip si e s .

A U S TRI A B OHEM I A & c

H o lland ; B elgiu m A pp ear an ce o f th e D u tc h D u tc h ladie s M an n er s an d c ustom s ;

In h ab itan t s ; N atio n al c h a r ac t e r ; o s tum e ; F oo d H ab itatio n s ; R o ad s ; Tr av e l

P e r s on al a pp ear an ce ; D r ess O f th e La pp s ; H u ts ; I n l an d La pp s ; Mar itim e Lapps ;

G en eral d e s c r ip t io n ; o s t um e H D r es s ; Ho t b ath s ; P eas an tr y ; H unting ;

P er s on al app ear ance ; D r es s ; D r es s of th e fe m a es ; l H o us e s ; B ur ia l o f th eir dead .

L o cali ties ; P h ys ic a l an d m or a l c h ar ac t e r ; W eal th ; D r es s ; D iet ; D we ll ings

P er so na l app ear ance ; e n ts ; Fo o as s e s or r an ks ; W ar d r es s ; Marr iages .

ass es o f A r ab s ; B e do u in s ; Ph s ical a pp ear an c e ; E xt er i r d e m ean o r ; Ho s p ital

P er son s ; o s tu m e ;Ho us e s ; F oo d ; H b its ; F e m l e e d u c at io n ; Su pe r s titio ns

S itu atio n a nd ex t en t ; P er s o na a l pp e D r e s s ; H o u s e s ; D ie t A '

A r ts an d S c ien c e s ; P ub ic o ad s ; l R el igi o us s e cts ; S up er s t itio n s ; Ce l e r atio n of