1/11/2019 Classification of Yarn Faults and Possible Source of Origin - Textile Course

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The yarns used could be in two different forms: a twisted assembly of continuous filaments or staple fibers, or a parallel

assembly of filaments. The yarns are interlaced or looped together to form woven, knitted, braided or knotted products.

Sometimes, the slender filaments are first transformed into a bulky yarn and then used in this form in some applications. POPULAR A RC H I V E

Sewing Thread Consumption and

Classification of Yarn Faults: Numbering System

Faulty yarns produce due to a number of factors like type of raw material used, process parameters adopted, processing

conditions maintained etc. Defective yarns not only affect the appearance of yarn but also have a significant influence on post
Cotton Fiber: The King of Natural
spinning operation. Fiber

Sustainable Denim Processing

Technologies

Different Types of Fancy Yarns and

Their Uses

Desizing Process of Cotton Fabric

Figure-1: Different yarn faults CATEGORIES

Broadly we can classify yarn faults into the following categories:

 ACCESSORIES
Imperfection index (IPI)
 APPAREL INDUSTRY
Coefficient of variation of mass (CV%)

Hairiness index  COLORFASTNESS

Periodic faults  DEFECTS

Classimate faults
 DENIM

Imperfection Index (IPI):  DYEING

Broadly there are three basic subcategories of the imperfection index that are given here:  FABRIC

 FASTNESS

1. Thick place (+50%)  FIBER

2. Thin place (−50%)  GARMENT MANUFACTURING

3. Neps (+200%)
 KNITTING

These are the faults of the yarn, and excessive numbers of thick places, thin places, or neps cause the different types of faults  LOOM

that affect the fabric quality and appearance. Loom efficiency is also decreased as IPI causes excessive breakage during the
 MERCHANDISING
warping process. These faults are classified on the basis of yarn diameter, which can be calculated by the formula:
 NONWOVEN

 PRETREATMENT
1

Yarn diameter = -------------------- inch  PRINTING

√28 count  RECYCLING

 SEWING
Yarn diameter can also be calculated by optical or capacitive method. The USTER Tester 5 uses the capacitive method to
 SILK
determine the yarn diameter. If the diameter of any place along the length of the yarn is 50% higher than the actual diameter of

the yarn then it is considered as a thick place, and if the diameter is 50% less than the yarn diameter then it is counted as a  SPINNING

thin place. If the diameter of any place is so high that it becomes 200% of the yarn diameter then such a place is considered to  TECHNICAL TEXTILE

be a nep of yarn. The IPI tells us about the evenness of the yarn; the greater the value of the IPI, the greater will be the
 TEXTILE CALCULATION
evenness. The IPI of the yarn is determined by following the standard test method ASTM D 1425. The USTER Tester is used
 TEXTILE FINISHING
to determine the unevenness of yarn and is based on the capacitive method. In this method, the yarn is passed through two
 TEXTILE INDUSTRY
capacitive plates and on the basis of capacitance changes the diameter of the yarn passing through the plates is analyzed.
 TEXTILE TESTING

Coefficient of Variation of Mass (CV%):  WEAVING

CV percentage can be defined as the standard deviation expressed as a percentage of average:
 YARN

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1/11/2019 Classification of Yarn Faults and Possible Source of Origin - Textile Course

SD  YARN COUNT
CV% = --------------- x 100

Average

Where

x are the individual values of mass of specific length over which unevenness is being measured.

n is the number of readings.

ASTM D 1425 also determines the CV% of the yarn.

Hairiness Index (H):

This is the accumulated length of hairs in centimeters in the unit length. It is denoted by H and has no unit because it is the

ratio of two lengths:

Total length of all protruding fibers (cm)

Hairiness index (H) = -------------------------------------------------------------------------

One cm of the yarn

The hairiness range for the traditional yarn is 2–12. In the case of finer yarn, there are less fibers per unit cross-section and

normally longer fibers are used so they have less tendency to move outward, which results in low hairiness. Normally ring

spun yarn has a higher H value than air vortex and rotor yarn because of the friction that occurs between the traveler and the

yarn and also the higher mobility that is observed. There are many techniques by which hairiness can be measured, such as

optical, capacitive, and image analyses as well as the theoretical method. In most cases, hairiness is measured by the optical

method, normally an USTER or Zweigle Hairiness Tester.

Periodic faults:
These are the faults that arise periodically and appear as a wood pattern or as stripes or streaks in the fabric. The appearance

of periodic faults in yarn is shown in Figure-2. After dyeing such faults result in shade variation.

Figure-2: Appearance of the yarn periodic faults in the fabric.

Classimate faults:
On the base of the USTER Classimate, yarn faults are classified into the following categories, most of which can be removed

with the help of any yarn clearer in the auto cone department during the winding process.

1. Neps
2. Short thick
3. Long thick or double yarn
4. Long thin

Normally neps have a length of 0.1–1 cm and a diameter of about +420%. A short thick place appears as a very small fault

and covers the length of 1–4 cm with a diameter range of +150% to +400%. Long thick places have a diameter range of about

+50% to +200% with a length of 8–38 cm. Double yarn is also produced by doubling the material at any stage during yarn

manufacturing as a doubling of roving or sliver. This fault is known as a double yarn. A long thin place and a long single yarn

are also produced. A long single yarn is the yarn whose diameter is half of the main yarn. The cross-section of the thin yarn is

–30%, –45%, and –75%.

Yarn slub test:

Slub yarn or fancy yarn have a variety of applications in textiles. All the slubs are calculated on the base of the reference level,

which is on the level of the base yarn. The mass increase is the amount of mass that is increased from the base

level/reference level, which is 0%. The maximum length of the slub at the bottom is named the slub length and the distance

between the two consecutive slubs is known as the slub distance. The ratio T/P (top length to bottom length) is also a very

importance factor and it tells us about the steepness of the slubs present in the yarn. We can produced a fancy yarn with two

or more populations, this means that there are at least two different slub sizes regarding for example different mass increases

or slub lengths or a combination of both in a slub yarn. A mass decrease of a slub is an important quality parameter because

mass decrease before and after a slub produces weak places in the yarn, so it is very important to maintain the setting of the

spinning machine or the slub yarn device. The count of the fancy yarn is normally given as the overall nominal count that

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1/11/2019 Classification of Yarn Faults and Possible Source of Origin - Textile Course

describes the weight per unit length. It is also possible to describe the base yarn count and slub count separately. A yarn slub

test is performed by the USTER Tester 5 and works on the capacitive principle in which the diameter of the yarn passing

through the dielectric plates is determined by the change in the capacitance.

References:

1. Advanced Textile Testing Techniques Edited by Sheraz Ahmad, Abher Rasheed, Ali Afzal, and Faheem Ahmad
2. Technical Textile Yarns by R. Alagirusamy, A. Das
3. http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2016/12/yarn-faults-spinning-types-yarn-fault.html

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