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1 Formulating Clear Conditioning Shampoos Judy Zhuang Inolex
1 Formulating Clear Conditioning Shampoos Judy Zhuang Inolex
Clear Conditioning
Shampoo
Function % (w/w)
Conditioning Agents
Cationic Additives, Oils, Polyquats, 0.1 - 5.0
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Auxiliaries
1.0 - 3.0
Perfumes, Claim Actives
Microbiological Stability
0.7 - 1.2
Preservatives
• Superior conditioning
• Increased shine and softness
• Improved sensorial experience during application
• Broad compatibility
• Mild and biodegradable
• Silicone-Free claims
Novel Active Polymer
INCI
• Polyester-11
Unique Chemical Structure
• polyesteramine
Patented
Market examples
Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?
Conditioning Effect
• Wet and Dry Combing and Detangling
Sensory Assessment during Application
• Lathering and Slip
• Foaming Degree and Stability
Effect on Dry Hair
• Softness and Shine
• Manageability and Volume
• Build-up
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo
#624-091 #624-090
Phase Ingredient (INCI)
% (w/w) % (w/w)
Distribution
2
0
Polyester-11 improved overall
sensory experience after
Slip
-1
Flash Foam application.
-2
25
20
% Force Reduction
15
10
0
Wet Combing Wet Detangling Dry Combing Dry Detangling
* Chosen Benchmark is leading silicone-free China market brand for 2-in-1 shampoos.
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo
Silkiness
2
Manageability Shine
Volume
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo
Polyester-11 tress had cuticles with flatter scales. This reduces friction when combing and holds in
moisture for improved hair strength.
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)
A B C
Phase Ingredient (INCI)
% (w/w) %(w/w) %(w/w)
Polyester-11 is
significantly clear
compared to formulations
containing commonly used
conditioning agents.
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)
Polyester-11 provided a
0.2% Polyester-11 0.2% Cationic Guar 0.2% PQ-10
comparable conditioning effect
on wet hair compared to current
30 popular conditioning actives.
25
% Force Reduction
20
15
10
0
Wet Combing Wet Detangling
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)
0.80
0.40
0.00
Softness Shine Overall Appearance
Silicone-Free Shampoo (#624-118F) - build up evaluation
Phase Ingredient (INCI) (w/w)%
67.72
A
Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.50
SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86
B
SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67
C Q.S.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50 Silicone-free
2.00
shampoo with
D Polyester-11
Glycol Distearate 1.00
1.00
Polyester-11 0.50
E Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.20
Polyquaternium-10 0.15
Sodium Xylenesulfonate 1.50
F
Neopentylglycol Diheptanoate (and) Isododecane 1.00
G Preservative 1.00
H NaCl Salt 2.20
Total 100.00
Build-up Evaluation
1.00
0.90 Instrumentation
0.80 • Minolta Chroma Meter CR-300 with Data
0.70
Procedure
0.60 0.46
• Immerse shampooed tresses into 200ml of
0.50 0.38 0.1% solution of red 80 Dye for 60 seconds
0.40 • Take out tresses from solution and remove
0.30 excess dye with #2 and #3 fingers
• Rinse the dyed hair in 300ml DI-water for
0.20
10 seconds
0.10 • Hang hair tresses to dry overnight
0.00 • Read color index
dE
Sulfate-Free and Silicone-Free Clear Conditioning Shampoo (#638-120)
Total 100.00
Formulating Tips
Polyesteramine:
• Superb performance in clear shampoos.
• Superior anti-static and combability performance.
• Benefits evident even at low active (0.2%) levels.
• Synergistic effects with other conditioning agents.
• Improves the performance of economy formulas.
• Easy to incorporate.
• Use level: 0.2 – 2%.
Patented