Home Brew ECN2 Processing

My ECN2 process derived from the official Kodak process as fully documented here:
https://www.kodak.com/uploadedfiles/motion/h2407.pdf All ECN2 diagrams and recipes below come
from this document. I can’t stress enough to read this document from cover to cover. The Kodak
engineers and chemists developed this process and for the best results you should follow it as close as
possible.

We’re trying to match the continuous process below as close as possible using tank and reel.

This process is designed for continuous flow or constant agitation. I use a Jobo processor with all
chemistry heated to the process temperature of 106.0 degrees F. You will need an absolutely leak-
proof tank. I’ve owned several of the “Patterson” type which have all leaked. If you don’t have a Jobo
processor I highly recommend the use of a Jobo type tank with cog wheel and a rubber stopper to
provide a totally leak-proof solution. (when holding stopper down)

Times and Temperatures. The only time/temperature that are critical is the developer step. That is the
time from developer first touching film until the stop bath goes in. Remember 100% agitation!

Remjet remover.
First, a definition. Remjet is a layer made mostly of Carbon added to the film base that dissipates static
electricity during the filming process and provides an anti-halation layer. It is Removed by water Jet
hence the name RemJet. Cinestill has purchased bulk film from Kodak and removed the Remjet then
repackaged. Their film has no anti-halation layer which can lead to some interesting effects.

Remjet removal is designed to be done first. I use the process temperature of 106.0 for this and rinse
water as well. There seems to be many opinions on this step. I tend to believe the Kodak chemists
when they specified this process and order of operations. You can get both of these chemicals at the
grocery store for a few dollars. Kodak wouldn’t have specified this formula (or others) if it wasn’t
serving a specific purpose. Normally remjet is completely removed in the first steps in the Kodak
process however since the film is in a developing tank you won’t normally have access to it before the
final step is finished. I remove 99% of the remjet first then take care of the last little bit after the film is
removed from the developing tank.

Steps:

1. Fill the developer tank with remjet remover. The film should be completely submerged.
2. Seal tank and gently agitate for 15-20 seconds making sure you invert tank to get 100%
coverage of the film on reels. We’re only softening the remjet and not actually removing at this
time. From what I’ve read the formula as supplied by Kodak does two things. First the remjet is
softened to be ready for release. Second, the agent acts as a surfactant helping to keep the
remjet in suspension and so it won’t attach back to the film.
3. Pour the remjet remover out. The color will change slightly pink but shouldn’t be black. You can
reuse this several times. It would be a good idea to pour through a filter to remove any debris.
4. Add rinse water (at process temperature) to the tank, seal and vigorously shake. (think cocktail
shaker) You’ll probably want to test your tank with plain water and no film before trying this to
be sure it doesn’t leak everywhere.
5. Pour out the rinse. This should be very black.
6. Repeat several times until rinse water is clear.
7. Proceed to development process without much delay. You don’t want the temperature
dropping much or the film drying out.
a. Developer 3 minutes then direct into
b. Stop bath 30 seconds then
c. Rinse at least 2 times, 30 seconds each
d. Bleach 3 minutes
e. Wash 2-3 times, 30 seconds each until water is clear.
f. Fix appropriate time. Kodak ECN2 formula is 2 minutes. Others vary. It doesn’t hurt to
go a little longer here.
g. Wash minimum of 3 minutes with several changes or water or use force washing from a
sink. The temperature can be lower here but don’t go full cold or you could shock the
film.
h. Final rinse in Photoflo or other. I use Kodak C41 final rinse. It’s recommended to do this
off the reels. I fill a small container and run the film through it holding each end back
and forth.
8. When development complete hang film and use a wet PEC Pad (use once and dispose) with final
rinse and thoroughly wipe down the BASE side of the film. Do not touch the emulsion side.
 After 1 or 2 wipes you should be good. I’ve tried several other wiping methods, but the PEC Pad
is the best. I’ve been able to scan without ICE with very little dust spotting.
9. Wash the film down while hanging with final rinse. I use a “Safety Wash Bottle” filled with final
rinse to gently squirt the film from top to bottom, front and back. DO NOT TOUCH FILM after
this.
10. Hang the film in a clean location to dry. I have a cabinet with a small heater to hang the film in.
I run the heater to pre-warm the cabinet and turn it off after the film has been hanging a few
minutes. I can generally scan the film 30-45 minutes later this way.
Recommended stop bath.
I don’t have (or wish to) H2SO4. I have used Ilfostop or Acetic acid (distilled vinegar) stop with no issues.
If you are using one of these methods you must add extra rinsing to totally eliminate any carryover into
the bleach.

This bleach is the easiest to make and find chemicals for. It can be re-used many times. You must
aerate thoroughly before use. I use a small aquarium pump with an air stone. This will cause foaming
so be sure you have a large enough container. I use a 1 gallon milk jug with a hole cut in the lid to
prevent splattering. It’s OK to run aeration for an extended period (hours)

C41 bleach will work as well (Flexicolor) and you can use this bleach with C41.

Recommended fixer. This is a PH neutral fixer. Others have had issues using other fixers. You can
probably use Flexicolor C41 fixer. I’ve used this fixer with C41 as well.
Equipment

I have the following:

• Lab grade scale capable of 1 kg minimum and resolving .01 grams or better.
• Magnetic stirrer. – this isn’t required but makes mixing much easier. Get the non-heated one.
• Beakers of several sizes up to 1 Liter.
• Graduated cylinders to measure liquids.
• Misc. lab gear.

All of this can be purchased for about $150 or less if you shop wisely.

C41
Here’s a C41 Developer recipe from the ECN2 Flikr group. You only need a couple different chemicals to
make this once you’ve made ECN2. The same stop, bleach and fix will work.

https://www.flickr.com/groups/ecn2/discuss/72157661133914969/

DEVELOPER to make 1 Liter TIMES--all @100F

Potassium carbonate 32 g (or 24 g sodium Developer 3:15
carbonate as a substitute) Stop Bath 0:45
Sodium Sulfite 3.6 g Rinse 0:30
Potassium Bromide 1.6 g Bleach 3:30
Hydroxylamine Sulfate 2.0 g Wash 1:00 (2x 0:30)
CD4 5 g Fixer 5:00
Water to make 1 Liter wash & photo flow 5:00
Safety Wash bottle:

PEC*PAD
I recommend Jobo processing tanks. When sealed properly they will not leak!! This is very important
since you’ll be shaking the s*** out of these for REMJET removal. I recommend the cog lid version (for
automatic processing machines) with a suitable rubber stopper which you will hold during shaking. If
you move to a Jobo processer eventually you’ll have the tanks already.