ESSENTIAL

BEADING
TECHNIQUES
Basic polymer clay and resin
skills and concepts

In this issue:
Polymer clay overview........p. 2
Polymer clay tools...............p. 3
Polymer clay techniques....p. 5
Resin overview.....................p. 7
Resin tools and more..........p. 8
Which resin is right?............p. 9
Resin tips........................... p. 11

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reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. Sponsored by Fire Mountain Gems and Beads
O
nce you begin jewelry making, you
become the perpetual student — for
there are endless directions to drive
your artistic creations. In this PDF — the fourth
in a series of five — we introduce you to the
supplies and techniques you’ll need as you FREE
develop your understanding of polymer clay PROJECT:
and resin. Keep your eyes peeled for one
more installment that will help you build your
Polymer clay bangle
beading and jewelry-making skills. Click here for a free step-by-step project
designed by Seth L. Savarick.

Polymer clay overview Learn how to go big, but keep a band light in weight.

ABOUT POLYMER CLAY

Polymer clay is a synthetic modeling compound made of polyvinyl chloride
(PVC), pigments, and a plasticizer. The plasticizer keeps the clay pliable at
room temperature. When heated, the molecular structure of the PVC stabi-
lizes, and the clay hardens. It’s easy to harden the clay in a small home oven.
POLYMER PRODUCTS
Polymer clays differ a bit from brand to brand. In general, these differences
fall into the categories of firmness, flexibility, strength, color, and opacity.
When selecting polymer clay, choose a product that has the properties that Although polymer clay is safe to use and nontoxic, it’s good practice to
most complement the requirements of your specific project. You may even
experiment with combining two or more brands to achieve a custom result
(bake at the lowest temperature given for the brands).
Liquid polymer clay, such as translucent Liquid Sculpey or Kato Liquid Poly-
clay, serves as an adhesive to bond raw clay to cured clay. It is an excellent agent
for transferring images, or it can be tinted and applied as a glaze before curing.
To set your work, use glazes made for polymer or a product you might have
in your cabinet, such as acrylic floor finish.
A softener, such as Sculpey Diluent, Kato Clear Medium, or Fimo Mix-
Quick is blended with clay to help soften it during conditioning. It also acts
as a bonding agent for uncured clay.
dedicate any tools, utensils, supplies, or appliances to the clay only. Don’t use
them for food.

PRODUCT MANUFACTURER FEATURES WEAKNESSES BEST USES

Fimo was the first polymer clay Can be challenging to Fimo is a durable clay that
Fimo Eberhard Faber
to be marketed. condition. lends itself to many projects.
Excellent choice for
Fimo Classic Eberhard Faber Very firm.
making canes.
Easy to condition. Some colors Not as durable
Fimo Soft Eberhard Faber have glitter blended in. or strong as Fimo.
Sculpey is softer and
Sculpey Polyform Products Receives paint well. less durable than other
formulations.
Soft and easy to condition; Too soft for caning;
Sculpey III Polyform Products
appealing matte finish. brittle after baking.
Flexibility after baking
Sculpey Very soft and remains flexible A bit sticky when
Polyform Products makes it a good candidate
Super Flex after baking. uncured.
for mold-making.
A sophisticated range of colors
Premo and pearl metallics. Easy to Great choice for a variety of
Polyform Products
Sculpey condition; remains strong and techniques.
relatively flexible after curing.
Super
Polyform Products Hard and strong clay. Good for sculpting.
Sculpey
Very hard and porcelain-like Elasticity makes it
Cernit T&F Kunststoffe when cured; wide variety better for modeling Formulated for doll makers.
of flesh tones. than cane-making.
Van Aken Interna- Good general purpose product. Good for making canes;
Kato Polyclay
tional Very firm and strong. rich color-mixing potential.

Additional variations exist, including generic brands, but this chart lists the long-standing favorites.

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Polymer clay tools
A step-by-step reference to key polymer clay tools used in jewelry-making projects
u se a pasta machine [a] to condition the
clay and to roll pieces of clay into specific
thicknesses. Settings on pasta machines vary. For
example, Atlas machines have between seven and
nine settings, with #1 being the thickest and #9 the
thinnest. Amaco settings are the exact opposite —
#1 is the thinnest and #7 is the thickest. It’s a good
idea to check the settings of your pasta machine
so you have an approximate idea of the thickness
you’ll achieve with each setting. Projects use these
references: thinnest, thin, medium-thin, medium,
medium-thick, thick, and thickest.
Choose a smooth, durable nonstick work sur-
face such as marble, a sheet of glass, or a smooth
ceramic tile. To prevent clay from adhering to the
work surface, experiment with working on parch-
ment paper or freezer paper.
a
b
c
d l
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Use an acrylic roller [b] to flatten the clay.
A brayer is a roller with a handle for added lever-
age or pressure.
Use a burnishing tool, a bone folder [c], or even
the back side of a spoon to transfer an image from
a transfer medium to polymer clay. Burnishing
tools also will smooth and shine the clay.
Cut polymer clay with a variety of knives. A
craft knife, such as an X-acto knife [d], is handy for
trimming clay, creating a beveled edge, or tracing
a pattern. A tissue blade [e] is an extremely sharp,
smooth, and flexible blade used for slicing canes
and cutting thin, precise layers.
After clay is rolled and ready for use, a variety
of cutters help make uniform shapes and sizes.
Kemper Kutters create precise, graduated sizes,
and regular cookie cutters are equally useful.
j
k
Molds texture the clay and create a raised, or relief,
image. Soap molds are ideal for this purpose.
Additionally, you can use scrap polymer clay or
a mold-maker compound to make a mold from
any found object. Use a dry release, such as talc or
cornstarch, on the mold so the clay casting will not
stick. A spritz of water also works.
Experiment with common items to texture your
clay. Carving and modeling tools, dental tools, or
even a sewing machine screwdriver make unique
marks in the clay. Scratch and texture sheets [f],
a kitchen scouring pad, a piece of screen [g], or
rubber stamps [h] also are useful for texturing.
Sculpting tools [i] help with three-dimensional
modeling. In addition to texture, you may want
to add color or patina to your clay. Craft supplies
such as ink pads, paints and other pigments [j],
safety tip: When working with
a cutting blade, put painter’s tape
on the grip edge so you don’t grab
the cutting edge by mistake.
f
3
 Prismacolor pencils, and decorating chalks [k] will
help you enhance your design. Gold foil [l] adds
elegance. A varnish or sealant protects your image.
Use a needle tool or awl to make a stringing
hole in a pendant or bead. Or, punch a hole with
a drinking straw. Drilling a hole in cured clay also
is an option. Use a drill such as a Dremel, a spiral
push drill, or a flex shaft.
Bake (“cure”) polymer clay in a toaster oven
or convection oven set at a low temperature
to set and harden. This will be anywhere from
215–300° F; the clay packaging will have specific
instructions. Confirm and monitor the accuracy
of the oven’s temperature with a stand-alone oven
thermometer. Bake clay on a smooth surface such
as cardstock or unlined index cards.
Once cured, the finished piece may need a pin-
back or other embellishment, or it may become
part of a larger project. Cyanoacrylate glue (Super
Glue) provides a superior bond. The gel form is
easy to control. Other brands designed for polymer
clay use include Zap-A-Gap and Sobo.
While a clay piece can be used as soon as it
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cools from baking, glossy polishing provides
a high-quality finish. Using an electric buffing
machine fitted with an unstitched muslin buff is
the easiest way to get the most professional results.
If you don’t have access to a buffing wheel, use
wet/dry sandpaper or a sanding sponge, beginning
with 600 grit and progressing to finer grits. Sand
your piece under water. (Very fine-grit sandpaper
can be purchased at auto supply stores.) Hand-
polish with a sturdy fabric such as denim or polar
fleece. Be sure to wear a mask when buffing, so
you don’t inhale any clay dust or particles.
Create beautiful jewelry with your polymer clay
components using basic stringing and beading
techniques. You’ll use jewelry tools, such as crimp-
ing pliers [m]; wire cutters [n]; roundnose pliers [o]
and chainnose pliers [p]. A ball peen hammer [q]
and small steel bench block [r] will help you finish
jewelry that uses wire.
o
The right cure
In order to get safe, successful results,
bake polymer clay according to the
manufact-urer’s specifications for the
recommended temperature and time.
Setting the temperature too high or
baking the clay for too long can scorch
the clay and release unhealthy fumes.
On the other hand, if you bake your
clay for too short a time or at too low
a temperature, you may get an under-
cured piece that’s weak and brittle.
p
4
Polymer clay techniques
Basic pratices to get you started working with polymer clay

FREE PROJECTS:
Polymer clay pendants
Christi Friesen made this adorable polymer clay fish. For free
step-by-step projects by this designer, such as Lovely Little
Lambs, Turtle Pool Party, and Crystal Pixie Pendants, click here.

CONDITION POLYMER CLAY

Conditioning polymer clay softens it and makes
it easier to work with. All brands of polymer clay
need some conditioning before you work with
Tips for reducing clay canes
them, though the degree varies among brands and • Firm, general-use clays will retain detail better when used to create canes.
depends on whether the clay is from a newly- • Canes must be pliable and warm to be reduced and formed into shapes.
opened package or left over from another project. • Prevent older canes from cracking during reduction by coating them with a small
You can condition clay by hand or with a pasta amount of liquid clay prior to warming.
machine. To work it by hand, roll the clay into • Warm your canes by placing them on a heating pad set on the lowest setting.
a ball, flatten it, then roll it into a snake. Fold the Check the canes often to make sure they do not overheat.
snake in half and roll it into a ball again. Continue • Wear latex gloves to avoid transferring fingerprints to the clay.
making balls, snakes, and balls again until the clay
is soft, pliable, and doesn’t crack when folded.
If you use a pasta machine, most clay can be
processed straight from the package. Adjust the Skinner-blend cane MAKE A CANE
machine to its thickest setting, then flatten one
end of the clay and roll it through the machine.
If the clay breaks into small pieces, press the pieces
together and run them through the machine again. flower cane complex
A long sheet of clay will form. Fold it in half and cane
put it through the machine, fold side first, so air
will not become trapped between the pieces. If
air pockets form, puncture them with a needle
tool and run the clay through the machine again.
Twenty or more passes may be necessary to condition
checkerboard
the clay fully, but it’s easier than kneading by hand. cane
To make conditioning even easier, try warming
the clay to make it softer. Some artists place the
unopened package in their pocket or on a heating
pad set to low heat. Or, use a clay-dedicated food jellyroll
canes striped canes
processor to chop the clay into small pieces. Many
polymer clay companies offer softening products.
Once conditioned, roll out your desired thick- Canes are formed by combining different colors and shapes of clay and rolling them into a cylinder.
ness of clay using a pasta machine. Cut a cane in halves or fourths and layer the sections together for a more complex pattern. Reduce
the cane by hand-rolling and lengthening the cylinder. Canes can begin with a diameter equal to
a soda can, and then can be reduced to a diameter of an inch or smaller.
Avoid waste when you build a cane by keeping the ends trimmed throughout the process. You’ll
still lose five to twenty percent from the ends because they do not display the pattern as well as
the middle.
Polymer clay is temperature sensitive. After you’ve finished making a cane, the clay will be warm.
Let the cane cool before slicing, either by resting it on your workspace or by placing it in the freezer
for about 90 seconds.

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 MAKE A
SKINNER BLEND
Renowned polymer clay artist Judith Skin-
ner originated this method for making clay
sheets with seamless color gradations.

1 Roll equal portions of two colors

separately through the thickest setting
of the pasta machine. The sheets will be
roughly square or rectangular.

a
2 Fold the sheets in half diagonally
(corner to corner).

3 Stack the sheets on top of one

another, lining up the folded edges.
Trim the rough edges so that the two
sheets become right-angle triangles. [a]

4 Separate the triangles and abut the

diagonal (folded edge) sides with
one another to form a square or rectan-
gle. In order to create a sheet with un-
blended values of both colors, offset the
placement slightly so that the corners do b
not meet. Trim the corners. [b]

5 Roll the composite sheet through the

pasta machine at the thickest setting.

6 Fold the sheet in half so the same

colors meet (below, left). Roll the
sheet through the pasta machine, folded
edge first.

7 Continue to fold the sheet in the

same direction and roll it through the
machine until there are smooth grada-
tions with no lines. [c] c

FREE VIDEO:
Conditioning clay
Click here to learn how to condition polymer clay
to make it soft and more workable.

Try your hand at prepping polymer clay properly.

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Resin overview
t wo-part epoxy resin consists of resin and a hardener mixed together in
equal amounts. The mixture cures to a clear, hard finish. Always follow
the manufacturer’s directions, wear gloves, and work in a well-ventilated area.
Here are a few basics:

Temperature: Make sure your resin and hardener are at 70 to 80 degrees

Fahrenheit when you mix them. Cold resin may dry cloudy or bubbly. Warm
the bottles by placing them in cups of warm (not hot) water for a few minutes.
Never microwave the bottles. To get rid of bubbles, gently warm the pieces
with a propane torch or heat gun, exhale over them with a straw, set them
under a lamp, or use a gel-curing UV light. Resin should be cured at 70 to 85
degrees. And avoid touching the resin while it’s curing; your fingerprints will
leave marks.
FREE PROJECT:
Resin bangle
Click here for a free step-by-step project
Making molds: Use silicone putty or
two-part molding compound to make flexible,
designed by Sherri Haab.
reusable molds. If you’re making multiples of
the same piece, make several molds. Otherwise, Capture trinkets, bobbles, and bits
you’ll need to wait while each piece cures before
in a playful bangle.
pouring another. When using your molds, make
sure they’re clean and dry; water residue can
cloud your pieces. Place your molds on a Silpat
baking mat or waxed paper to catch any drips.

Sealants: Be sure to seal both sides and the edges of paper, photos,
and other porous materials to prep them. Allow to dry completely before
preserving them in resin.

Troubleshooting: If your finished pieces have soft spots, they can’t be
salvaged. Soft, tacky areas are the result of improper measuring or mixing
of the resin. Bubbles can result from mistakes in different stages of the project.
Make sure to measure precisely, stir slowly (don’t whip), and pour carefully.
Finally, cure the piece in a dust-free space. If you don’t have a UV lamp, flip
over a box to cover the piece while it’s curing.
Color notes: You can add color to resin by mixing in opaque or
transparent pigments. Use transparent liquid colorants for a clear, glass-
like look. The more you add, however, the darker and more opaque the
color will appear. To make pastels, add a touch of white to a color. For
a marbled effect, blend colors with white and a bit of black.

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Resin tools and more
Learn the main gadgets used in resin

e
jewelry-making projects, plus a bit of history

very resin workshop should be well stocked. These are the fundamental
tools that you should have for resin jewelry projects.
• Clear packing tape
• Craft sticks
• Disposable plastic medicine cups (for mixing and measuring)
• Eye goggles
• Flex shaft, polishing buffs
• Latex or nitrile gloves
• Needle tool
• Respirator mask
• Sanding mask
• Sandpaper: various grits FREE VIDEO:
• Syringe or bottle with syringe tip
• Toothpicks Colored resin
• Tweezers
necklace
Click here to watch us walk you
A brief history of plastics through the basic techniques.

• Contrary to popular belief, plastics are neither new Learn to use colored resin for a faux enamel
nor are they all man-made. look without the extra tools or heat.
• Examples of natural plastics include horn, amber,
beeswax, and tortoiseshell.
• Semisynthetic plastics are made by using chemicals
to modify natural polymers such as cellulose or
milk protein.
• In 1855, French inventors Lapage and Talrich pat-
ented a heat-setting semisynthetic plastic they called
“Bois Durci.” It was reinforced with wood dust and
molded into household objects and jewelry. Must-haves
• Synthetic plastics are derived from polymers made Saftely tools, including a respirator mask and a pair
from hydrocarbons extracted from crude oil.
of gloves, are essential for your resin workstation.
• Leo Baekeland patented the first synthetic plastic
in the early 1900s. Items that were made with this
Bakelite material are now desirable antiques.

Bakelite jewelry by Susan Knopp.

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WHICH RESIN
IS RIGHT
FOR ME?
Don’t let the wide variety of
resins keep you from trying
this trendy medium.
by Sherri Haab
r esin products have exploded on the jewelry-
making market recently. Interested in trying
your hand at this medium? You’ll have to sort
through the many types and brands first.
One-component plastics, such as water-based
coatings, are popular due to their ease of use,
quick cleanup, and low toxicity. Although not as
durable as a catalyzed two-part product, water-
based coatings offer one option to explore.
UV resin contains a component that activates
catalyzation when exposed to UV light. Many art-
ists like UV resin because, as a one-part formula,
it does not require measuring or mixing and it
sets up quickly. This makes it great for workshops.
However, depending on the brand, there may be
some restrictions. Some types react with certain
materials or inclusions, and UV resins typically do
not work well if poured in deep layers, especially
when pigments are added, which may inhibit cur-
ing. Some trial and error can be expected, but you
! SAFETY FIRST
As with any art material, you need to take safety
precautions when working with resin. Even if the
product is advertised as low odor or consumer
friendly, resin formulas emit fumes until cured that
can potentially harm you through inhalation or by
dermal contact (think allergies and skin rashes).
For safety information about the resin you are
using, read the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
from the manufacturer. Also, here’s the rule of
thumb when it comes to exposure: quantity and
frequency = heightened health risk.
The good news is that you can easily protect
yourself with safety gear.
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may find that UV resins are a welcome addition to
your resin repertoire.
I personally use two-part resins, my preference
for reliability. Two-part resins consist of a resin or
plastic and a catalyst or hardener. A process called
polymerization occurs when the resin and catalyst
are mixed together, resulting in a thermo-setting
chemical reaction that causes the resin to cure
or harden. The end product is very durable and
is considered permanent. I’ll focus on two-part
resins below.
THE TWO-PART RESIN FAMILY
Two-part resins fall into three categories: polyes-
ter, polyurethane, and epoxy resins. You can find
dozens of formulations within these categories,
but once you understand the properties of each
type, you’ll find it easier to pick the right resin for
your project.
Make sure your studio
is equipped with:
1. Good ventilation
2. Nitrile rubber gloves
3. Eye goggles
4. NIOSH approved respi-
rator with fume filters
5. Dust mask (for sanding
and loose pigment
powders)
Polyester resin
Polyester resin is widely used to cast plastic objects
like key chains, jewelry, and home décor items
because it is inexpensive and durable. Many of us
remember the tabletop “grapes” made with this
type of resin that were so popular in the ’70s.
A few artists still use polyester resin today,
although it requires careful measuring and safety
precautions. With the proper equipment, polyester
resin is manageable, but I find it overwhelming to
work with due to the strong fumes. Instead,
I prefer polyurethane or epoxy resins.
Polyurethane resin
Also known as “urethane resin,” this general-
purpose casting resin is commonly used to make
miniatures and figurines. The resin is usually
formulated to cure quickly, in anywhere from
a few minutes to a few hours. Formulas mixed
with a 1:1 ratio are the easiest to use.Urethane is
available in clear or opaque colors, and colorants
and fillers can be added to change the texture or
9
color. This resin is especially sensitive to moisture
FREE PROJECT:
and humidity, which may inhibit curing, so make
sure additives are free of moisture. This type of
Sweet Delights Bracelet
resin works especially well for casting large objects, Click here a free step-by-step project designed by
such as chunky bangle bracelets. Alumilite and Steven James.
Smooth-On carry several good choices.

Epoxy resins Create resin confections for a colorful bracelet.

Epoxy resins vary in formulation and viscosity,
and they are widely available for different
applications. Many are mixed with an easy 1:1
ratio, including my favorite brands listed below.
Quick-setting epoxy is sold in hardware stores 10 TIPS FOR SUCCESS
and is most often used for small repairs. It usually
comes in a two-part dispenser, and you plunge
out a dime-sized amount from each side. It has
a gel-like consistency and is mixed with a small
Once you’ve chosen your resin, keep
these pointers in mind: 7 Drill holes in cured resin with a
hand drill; a slow speed is best.

stick for a minute or so. Some formulas cure within

a minute while others set overnight. Use this
quick-setting epoxy as an adhesive for attaching
pearls, buttons, or other non-porous components
to your jewelry. Popular brands include Devcon 2
Ton and Devcon 5 Minute epoxies.
Coating resins are good for thin surface
applications. The resin looks like glass and is nice
1 A warm environment is key for fewer
bubbles and better curing. 8 Have fun with additives. How
about adding dry spices from the
cupboard?
2 Measure resin and hardener pre-
cisely for success.
9 If a cured piece gets stuck in a
mold, place the mold in the freezer
3 For epoxies, mix the resin and hard-
ener well, and then mix again in
briefly.

for covering images in shallow bezels. By adding

color to the resin, you can fill charms with walled
or filigree-type cells to mimic the look of enam-
eled cloisonné. Try EnviroTex Lite and Colores
coating resins.
Casting epoxy resins, such as EasyCast, are
designed for casting large jewelry pieces. This type
of resin can be poured into molds to make shapes
and is a nice alternative to polyester resin.
Doming resins like ICE Resin and Colores
Doming Resin are slightly thicker than coating
resins. Both brands can be used to fill bezels, and
they can also be applied to surfaces without bezel
walls. With a little control, the resin will sit on the
surface without flowing over the edge. The surface
tension allows the resin to form a thick, domed
layer, which creates a nice “dewdrop” effect.
a clean cup for extra insurance (a hint
from my friend Hilary at Environmental
Technology Inc., the manufacturer of
10 Use a rubber stamp embossing
heat tool to release bubbles
from the surface of the resin.
EasyCast).
Unfortunately, resin is not something
4 Work on wax paper so the resin
won’t soak through to your work
surface.
that is easy to master by simply reading
about it; it takes experience. The best
way to become a pro with resin is to
dive in and experiment.
5 Throw away cups and sticks after
one use; don’t try to reuse them for
new batches.
A little iffy about a new technique?
Practice it in bottle caps. Each time you
make a mistake, you will learn some-
6 Keep your work area clean to avoid
resin spills.
thing new, which in the long run will
serve you well as you approach finer
jewelry projects.

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Resin tips
Expert resin advice by Carl Becker.
1 Sand smart
Sanding is a common technique for finishing an epoxy resin or
clay piece. However, since some epoxies can take up to two weeks
to cure completely, always wear a dust mask when sanding during this time
period. This will prevent inhaling uncured epoxy particles into your lungs.
Once the epoxy is completely cured, it does not pose a health risk.
2 Wash your hands
(the right way)
Remove epoxy from your skin with liquid
soap and warm water or hand cleaner. Do not use
solvents to clean your skin! Solvents can remove the
natural protective oils and leave your skin dry and
irritated. Much more so than healthy skin, dry or
irritated skin can absorb chemicals and become
sensitized to epoxy.
After washing, use a skin conditioner or lotion to help
keep skin soft and supple.
4 Know better than “nontoxic”
In this day and age of wanting to eat
healthy foods, breathe fresh air, and drink
clean water, it’s easy to be drawn to an epoxy
labeled as “nontoxic” or “non-irritating” to skin
(while the epoxy is liquid and uncured). Many
designers would certainly pay more for nontoxic/
non-irritating features.
Unfortunately, this is not chemically possible
when using epoxy resin and epoxy clay products.
Regardless of the brand, two-component epoxy
products currently on the market use many of
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3
Avoid questionable
products
By law, epoxy manufacturers, re-packagers, and
importers are required to provide specific warnings on
the outer product packaging as well as on individual inner
containers. However, some have failed to state this important
information on their products. Be wary of any epoxy product
that does not clearly state warning information
on their packaging.
Many leading manufacturers have chosen to go beyond the
required warning statements and supply additional information
on their enclosed instruction sheets. This information along
with the product instructions should be read thoroughly before
proceeding — do not assume anything!
Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) should be available
from the manufacturer and are often posted on their
websites. The MSDS provide more specific informa-
tion on both resin and hardener components and
health hazards. If a product’s MSDS is not posted
or available, consider using products from
a more reputable manufacturer.
the same base components in both the resin and
hardeners. Like most household cleaners, paints,
etc., these products should not be used by
pregnant women and should be stored in
a safe place away from children and pets!
Epoxy resin and clay are wonderful media to
work with on any artistic project. They add depth,
beauty, and highlights that would be difficult or
impossible to achieve otherwise. Used correctly
and safely, the final results can be amazing and
very rewarding.
11
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Blending Colors in Polymer

by Tammy Honaman, Exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

Blending possibilities of polymer clay

Color was what originally attracted me to polymer clay. The colors available whetted my
appetite and fueled my senses. As my interest in the medium grew, I found the need to
blend colors. When creating items in a production style, it became difficult to get the colors
to match from batch to batch—my notes were just not good enough (if I kept notes, that is).

When I came across Donna Kato’s color chart, I was ecstatic! And as I... (Read more here)

Click Here for Polymer Clay Design Inspirations and Over 20 How-To Videos