Working procedures of a woven merchandiser:

The main working procedures of a woven garments merchandiser are discussed below:
There are two important key factors for the proper working procedure of woven garments
merchandiser. By following it properly, anyone can touch his/her target very easily.

Fabrics follow up

The first and most important one is “Fabrics follow up” and the second one is “Order execution”. Among
two key points, now I will discuss the very first important thing named “Fabric follow up”.

Fabric follows up contains the following issues:

1. Fabric booking and Requisition,

2. Fabric in-housed,

3. Local accessories booking,

4. Accessories development,

5. Accessories approval.

All the main five key factors for the “fabric follow-up” are discussed below:

1. Fabric booking and Requisition:

When the buyer forwards his/her sample with all the details instruction, in that time a woven garments
merchandiser should be done fabric booking and requisition by following the buyer’s instruction about
the types of fabric that he/she advised such as-Cotton denim, Spandex denim, Slub denim, 2/1 RHT, etc
and also based on order quantity.

2. Fabric in-housed:
After completing the fabric booking, a woven garments merchandiser should arrange the accurate fabric
as per the buyer’s instruction and also in-hosed those before the print and embroidery approval (if there
are any print and embroidery instructions).

3. Local accessories booking:

After completing all the above two steps, a merchandiser should confirm the local accessories booking
such as- Sewing thread, Zipper, Button, Metal Rivet, etc., and in-house those before starting the Sewing
process.

4. Accessories development:
As per order specification, if there’s needed any accessories development such as-Logo button, Logo
rivet, Logo zipper puller, all types of labels, etc. then those should be needed to develop with an urgent
basis.

5. Accessories approval:
After completing the accessories development, these should be sent to the buyer for approval. When
the merchandiser received the approval of those accessories then he should manage the required
amount of accessories before starting the sewing process. Here one thing should be noted that, if you
are not able to manage all the local accessories before sewing, you cannot control all the next processes
in your own way. It’s a very important tip for a garments merchandiser.

Order execution

The second important matter to ship in a timely is “Order execution”

Order execution contains the following features:

1. Pattern making,

2. Print and embroidery development,

3. Fit sample making,

4. Wash development,

5. Wash approval,

6. Comments,

7. P.P sample making,

8. Cutting the fabric,

9. Print and embroidery,

10. Sewing,

11. Complete the washing process,

12. Finishing and QC check,

13. Shipment.

The above all thirteen features are discussed in the following:

1. Pattern making:
After receiving all the details from the buyer, a merchandiser should pass urgently the entire reference
sample with the buyer’s details instruction to the pattern section for pattern making.

2. Print and embroidery development:

If there are any print and embroidery, then it should be developed on an urgent basis by maintaining the
buyer’s instruction.

3. Fit sample making:

In the meantime, a merchandiser should make the fit sample by maintaining the buyer’s instruction.
Here one thing should be noted that, in the fit sample, the using fabric may b vary from buyer
nominated fabric, color may vary than buyer nominated color, but measurement must be accurate as
per buyers providing measurement sheet.

4. Wash development:
In woven merchandising, the washing procedure is very important. The washing process is the heart of
woven garments such as denim, twill, etc. So it’s needed extra care in this process though it’s a time
killing process. Here a woven garments merchandiser should develop the wash process as per the
buyer’s instruction.

5. Wash approval:
After developing the washing process, it should be approved by the buyer on an urgent basis. Because it
has seen that a sample has to develop several times due to its different shade than the buyer providing
original. Here one thing should be noted that less time is needed for wash approval, easy to complete
the rest of the process.

6. Comments:
After making the fit sample it should send to the buyer for their comments. When the buyer comments
on the fit sample, it must be noted and following their comments for the next steps.

7. P.P sample making:

P.P sample means a pre-production sample. It’s the approved sample for production. P.P sample should
be made as per buyer’s instruction. Here all are actual. All comments must be maintained accurately.
After making a P.P sample it should be sent to the buyer for approval. After receiving P. P approval, a
merchandiser can easily go to production.

8. Cutting the fabric:

When the comments are received from the buyer, a woven garments merchandiser should cut the
fabrics for the required quantity by following the buyer’s comments.

9. Print and embroidery:

After cutting the fabric, the required cutting pieces should send to the print and embroidery section with
the buyer’s comments about the print and embroidery and completed on an urgent basis.

10. Sewing:
After completing the print and embroidery process, all the cutting pieces should be input in the sewing
section with the buyer’s comments about the sewing.

11. Complete the washing process:

After completing the sewing process, a woven garments merchandiser should send all the garments to
the washing plant and follow-up it with the buyer’s instructions.

12. Finishing and QC check:

When the washing procedure will complete the merchandiser must be hand over all the garments to the
finishing section. After finishing, all the garments are sent to the QC (Quality Controller) department.

13. Shipment:
When the QC department approved the quality then these are sent to the buyer by sea or air.
Garments Wash:
The garment was is a new technology in the garment trade. Normally washing
mean cleaning something. But in the garment trade, only cleaning of garments is
not the garment wash. Garment washing is a technology which is applied to
change or modify the outlook, appearance, comfortability, and design of
garments. Garment washing is applied on solid dyed garments or solid printed
fabric. Now I would like to discuss the different types and objects of wash in the
garment industry.
Types of Garments Washing:
In garments industry, there are mainly two types of washing process for garments
products. Those processes are wet washing process and dry washing process.
Here also wet washing process is divided by eight ways and the dry washing
process is divided by five ways, according to the fabric quality and buyer
requirements. But most common and applied wash in garment is normal wash,
which is also known as detergent wash. In the wet washing process enzyme wash,
stone wash and bleach wash is most popular to the buyer and the manufacturer.
On the other hand, Potassium per magnet spray and hand scraping is common
for dry washing process in the garments industry.

A. Wet Washing Process

1. Normal wash or Detergent wash

2. Pigment wash

3. Enzyme wash

4. Stone wash

5. Bleach wash

6. Enzyme-stone wash

7. Bleach-stone wash

8. Acid wash

B. Dry Wash Process

1. Sand blasting

2. Whisking or wrinkling

3. Hand scrapping

4. Potassium per magnet spray (PP spraying)

5. Destroying

Objects of Garments Wash:

1. To remove dirt, dust and waste materials from garments.
2. To remove size materials from garments.
3. For garments wash shrinkage occurs, so accurate measurement can be
found by customers.
4. Fading effect is varied here by variation of an amount of detergent used,
processing time and processing temperature.
5. To increase the brightness of garments.
6. To increase the smoothness of garments.
7. To change the appearance of garments.
8. To make directly wearable after purchase.
9. To make garments become soft and handy.
10. To remove harmful materials from garments.

Different Types of Wash Applied in Apparel:

Various types of garments washing techniques which are pointed out in the below:
1. Rinse wash,
2. Resin wash,
3. Softener silicon wash,
 4. Garment wash or normal wash,
5. Enzyme wash,
6. Medium stone enzyme wash,
7. Heavy stone enzyme wash,
8. Bleaching wash,
9. Enzyme bleach wash,
10. Acid wash,
11. Towel bleach wash,
12. Tie wash,
13. Rubber ball wash.
All the above washes have explained in the following with images:
1. Rinse wash:
The wash which is done by using water and slightly detergent with anti back stainer is called
rinse wash. Here, the shade is especially dark and not too much different from its
raw denim. This type of wash has some problems, among those back staining is the most
common.

2. Resin wash:
In the case of resin wash, we used resin in the bath. At first, we add resin in the bath then
loading the apparel for a certain period of time. Finally, we can get a hard garment.

3. Softener silicon wash:

In the case of silicon wash, we used softener and silicon together.  Here, we used silicon for
the surface slipper and softener for the softness of cellulose. As a result, we can get both
hand feel and softness for the garment. The softener can be cationic and nonionic.

4. Garment wash or normal wash:

This type of wash is a combination of rinse wash and softener wash. Here, the first time
completed rinse wash and then softener wash.

5. Enzyme wash:
The wash where the enzyme is used is called an enzyme wash. Here, we used enzyme for
abrasion of garments. Enzyme washed garments are looking very nice to see. The enzyme
may be neutral or acidic according to the requirements of shade.

6. Medium stone enzyme wash:

In the case of medium stone enzyme wash, we used enzyme and pumice stone together
for washing. Here, we have to avoid the damages of edges. Heavy abrasion is produced in
this wash. This wash is specially applied for denim and the time required about 20-30
minutes.
7. Heavy stone enzyme wash:
Here also used enzyme and stone together for washing. But the time required about 50-60
minutes to achieve the required shade.

8. Bleaching wash:
Bleaching wash means that a bleaching chemical is used in the water while washing in a
tumble washer. Strict washing time is a requirement with such kinds of wash. Otherwise, the
garment may be over bleached and the color cannot be reversed.

9. Enzyme bleach wash:

In the case of enzyme bleach wash, we used the enzyme process first then
the bleaching process by using chlorine or non-chlorine bleach. The shade of enzyme
bleaching wash is light. Here more color will be cut down. So, extra caution should be
needed here.

10. Acid wash:

Acid wash is done by using potash and pumic stone. At first, we have to dip the stone in the
potash solution then slightly dry the stone and wash it in a garment washing machine.
Finally, we will achieve an uneven look at the garment.

11. Towel bleach wash:

Towel bleach wash is done by using Japanese bleach and a towel. At first, we have to dip a
towel in the bleach solution. After squeezing, those towels loading into the
drying machine and tumbled with the garment. Finally, we get an uneven look in the
garment.

12. Tie wash:

Tie wash is done by tiding the garment then wash. As a result, we will achieve an uneven
crease in the garment.

13. Rubber ball wash:

Rubber ball wash is nothing but a garment and softener wash. In this process, the garment
will be softer and at the same time seam abrasion will come. We used this type of wash if
needed more hand fell for the garment.
 Different Types of Textile Finishes
With growing demands both in quality as well as properties finishing techniques can be
divided into three different parts:

1. Temporary Finish
2. Semi-durable Finish
3. Permanent Finish
1. Temporary finishes for textiles
Temporary finishes are the one which washes away on washing. The life expectancy of
these finishes is only limited to a number of washes. These type of finishes are often carried
out by treating the fabric with a paste consisting of starches and gum, filling materials,
softening agents, wetting agents, glazing agents, optical brightener, etc. it is the final fabric
feel, properties, etc. upon which the quantity of the ingredients will depend on and its
construction.

1. The use of softener is done to impart softening and glazing to the surface of the
fabric. Examples of softeners are wax emulsion, glaring paste, polyethylene emulsion.
2. For imparting stiffness, body luster starches can be used. E.g. Tapioca, maize, etc.
3. Wetting agents are also used with the paste to wet the fabric quickly for further
finishing. They are mainly of three types depending on the type of the ionic characteristics
of the mixture.
4. The use of wetting agent can be also seen in adding weight in the fabric. French
chalk, china clay, synthetic softeners are used and what it does is fill the thick and thin
places.
5. Optical brighteners like victoria blue or acid violet used to impart a slightest bluish
tone to the finished fabric to compensate for the slight yellow tinge of the base fabric. This
chloride salt absolves the invisible ultraviolet portion of the daylight and gives visible blue
light which gives a bright and white appearance to the finished material.
2. Semi-durable finishes for textiles
Semi-durable finishes are the one which lasts more in terms of washing cycle than that of
temporary finishes. The average life span of this washing depends on the types of finishes
used on the fabric. Below are some examples of temporary finishes.

Waterproof finishes can be done using a special type of chemicals which are most often
wax-based. What it does is form a coating to the fabric in the form of water-resistant film
and closes the crevices of the cloth. Substances like rubber, drying oils, etc. are most
commonly used but in recent years synthetic substances like butyl rubber, synthetic resins,
and polyvinyl chloride are also getting used. The waterproofing in this fabric does depend
on the level of coating done on the fabric but for the most part, the fabrics can withstand
heavy showers of rain or sudden splashes. With coating done, what it does is make the
fabric impermeable to air making it unusable in day to day apparels. Some of the common
uses are tents, tarpaulins and wagon covers.

i. Water repellent finish 

Water repellent finish is done similar to that of waterproofing but instead of coating the
entire fabric, the crevices between the warp and the weft are left vacant allowing for the air
and water vapor to pass through the fabric. This kind of coating is done by the process of
pad-dry-cure with the use of chemicals like a combination of Aluminium acetate and soap,
aluminum salt and wax. Some of the synthetic approaches are the use of octadecyl
isocyanate, silicon, fluoro chemicals but the process remains the same. Fluoro chemicals can
also impart oil repellency.

ii. Flame proofing: 

Since burning is a physical process, having a complete flame proof fabric is very difficult to
get but what can be done is slow down the process. Textile fabrics can be given a temporary
flame proof by immersing the fabric in water solution of borax and boric acid, mixture of
boric acid, di-ammonium phosphate, sulphamic acid, etc. but the treatment have to be done
after every wash. For getting a much durable finish chemical treatment have to be done
which fuses with the fibres thus altering the fabric properties thus stiffening it.

iii. Soil release finish: 

This type of finish includes soil resistance, soil release, and anti-soil redeposition. This
property allows the fabric to shed the soil gathered during normal washing and further stop
redeposition onto the fabric. It often depends on the fabric construction but some of the
common processes of getting this finish are the application of metal oxides ad salts to the
textiles, finishing with starch, carboxy methyl cellulose, fluoro chemicals etc.

iv. Mothproof: 

Unlike cotton, silk etc. wools are more susceptible to attack of the moths. It’s not the moths
that damage the wool, but its eggs which later hatches into worms r grubs and start eating
away the wool. Some of the ways to prevent this from happening are exposure to light and
 air, closed packing, cold storage, hot ironing with super-heated steam, contact poison like
fluorides and silica and use of strong volatile compounds like naphthalene balls or para-
dichlor-benzene. Apart from this as semi-durable finish treating the fabric by impregnating
the fibers with non-volatile substances also work.

3. Durable finishes for textiles

Durable finish as the name indicates is more susceptible to washes and can withstand
longer washing cycle if not for its lifetime. It is mostly done by altering with the fiber
properties to minimize the flaws in the fabric be it natural or man-made.

i. Anti-shrink finish: 

It is done to prevent the fabric from shrinking during washing specially used for cotton or
cotton-blends. This was first done by ’Cluctt Paybody and Co’ under the patented name
’sanforised fabric’. In this process, the fabric is mechanically shrunk between drums and
rubber belts as it passed through the stenter machine. This sets the fabric preventing further
shrinkage, especially during washing.

ii. Resin finish: 

Most of the natural fibers like cotton lack dry and wet crease recovery along with sharp
crease retention which becomes very much necessary in apparels. And this is imparted with
the use of resins types like DMDHEU, DMPU, Carbamates by thermosetting it into the fabric.
There are mainly three types of finishing treatment with resin:

 Anti-crease finish
 Wash-and-wear finishing
 Durable press treatment
Apart from this flame-resistant and water repellent have been also developed as a durable
finish.
Finishing Faults And Their Remedies
Finishing is the most import part in the Textile Industries because total quality
of the dyed fabric depends on finishing. In this section fabric GSM, width,
shrinkage etc. are controlled. But sometimes the subsequent faults are found
after finishing. 

Wet Squeezer Marks

Causes
 These marks are caused due to excessive pressure of the squeezer rolls on the
wet fabric.

Remedies
 Use the padding mangle only for the application of the softener.
 Use a hydro extractor (centrifuge) for the extraction to avoid the squeezer roll
marks.
 After extraction open the fabric manually to prevent crease marks in the damp
fabric.

GSM Variation
Causes
 Roll to roll variation in the process parameters of the fabric like overfeed and
widthwise stretching of the dyed fabric on the stenter, calender and compactor
machines.

Remedies
 Make sure that all the fabric rolls in a lot are processed under the same process
parameters.
Bowing
Causes
 Uneven distribution of tension across the fabric width while dyeing or finishing
the fabric.

Remedies
 Bowing can be corrected by reprocessing the fabric by feeding it from the
opposite end.

Skewing
Causes
 Improper feeding of the fabric while compacting.

Remedies
 Use a drop needle line as a reference line to keep the grain lines straight while
feeding the fabric slowly on the compactor machines.

You may also like: Dyeing faults and remedies

Shrinkage
Causes
 Shrinkage is primarily due to high tension during the knitting, dyeing and the
finishing processes.

Remedies
 Allow the fabric to relax properly before it is cut out.
 Give maximum overfeed to the fabric during the processing on the stenter and
compactor machines.
Over Compaction
Causes
 Excess shoe pressure.
 Excess overfeed (compaction) given to fabric with respect to potential
shrinkage.

Remedies
 Potential shrinkage test.
 Correct setting of machine.
 Re-compaction with lesser over-feed.

Fabric Width Variation

Causes
 If the stretched width is vary from roll to roll while feeding the fabric in the
stenter and compactor.

Remedies
 The stretched width of the fabric should remain constant for each roll during
finishing in the stenter and in the compactor.