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Introduction dyes, the cost to the mill or dye house will be greater
than conventional reactive dyes. Finally, outside
In the traditional dyeing of cotton goods, reactive of improvements in processing equipment, many
dyes are the colorant of choice because of overall innovations in cotton coloration have not, or cannot,
fastness properties as well as the wide range of easily translate into industrially realistic processes
achievable colors. The use of reactive dyes on cotton or applications.
requires salt to force exhaustion of the soluble dyes.
Furthermore, because of competing hydrolysis reac- In contrast, cationic cotton presents itself to be a
tion against dye fixation on cellulose, there is always truly sustainable alternative to traditional reactive
unfixed or hydrolyzed dye that must be removed cotton dyeing. Once cotton is cationized, it possesses
by rinsing. To remove the salt and hydrolyzed dye permanent cationic sites giving positively charged
in conventional reactive dyed cotton, abundant cotton. This is independent of the cationization
amounts of water are required to dilute and remove reagent used to cationize the cotton. The positive
the salt and hydrolyzed dye to obtain acceptable charges allow cotton to be dyed with anionic dyes
final fastness properties.1-3 As a result, the dyeing and without salt with up to 100% of the dye used.
of cotton goods has become notorious for the gross Therefore, significant raw material and consumable
consumption of raw materials and natural resources. savings are possible using cationic cotton in the
textile industry for producing dyed cotton goods.15-17
Many diverse technologies, including low liquor However, even with the promised sustainable ben-
ratio dyeing machines, smart rinsing technologies,1,2 efits, cationized cotton has not seen ready industrial
and high efficiency reactive dyes,4-10 as well as other acceptance. For example, Rupin showed as far back
innovative approaches such as neutral pH dyeing as 1976 that cationized cotton improved the dye
of cotton,10 cationic reactive dyes,12,13 and real-time uptake for both reactive and direct dyes.18
dyebath monitoring14 can address the issues found
with conventional fiber reactive cotton dyeing. The In a landmark paper in 2000, Hauser showed signifi-
caveat with these types of innovations and technolo- cant ecological improvements for direct and reactive
gies is the capital required to use them. In a highly dyeings when dyeing cationic cotton as compared
competitive global market, many textile dyers are to unmodified cotton.19 However, this paper only
not equipped to spend precious capital on new dye- addressed the dyeing of cationized cotton, inde-
ing equipment when they are already operational pendent of the overall cost and pretreatment
with (albeit, inefficient) existing equipment. Fur- requirements when using cationic cotton.
thermore, because of the additional and different There are three fundamental reservations against
synthetic steps required for more efficient reactive using cationic cotton: safety fears of the predomi-
nant cationization reagent CHPTAC, lack of large The dermal lethal dose of CHPTAC has been found
scale cationization demonstrations, and captured repeatedly to be greater than 2,000 mg/kg. CHPTAC
ecological savings. Also important are concerns over may be slightly irritating at maximum concentrations,
cost increases from using cationic cotton and the lack but CHPTAC has not been shown to be a sensitizer.
of any demonstrated costing examples. These three Prolonged skin contact with CHPTAC is not likely to
issues are broken down, explored, and addressed in cause significant irritation or result in the absorption
the following sections. of harmful amounts of CHPTAC. It should be noted
that in most commercial uses, CHPTAC is converted
Safety of CHPTAC20-23 to EPTAC, which is a potent skin sensitizer.
CHPTAC is formed from the reaction of epichlorohy- Eye contact with CHPTAC may cause moderate irrita-
drin and trimethylamine hydrochloride as shown in tion, although corneal injury is unlikely. According
Fig 1. to FDA standards, CHPTAC is not considered an eye
irritant. Generally speaking, CHPTAC has low toxicity
CHPTAC itself is not readily reactive with cellulose.
if swallowed. Small amounts of CHPTAC swallowed
For CHPTAC to be reacted with cellulose, CHPTAC
must be converted into epoxypropyltrimethylammo-
nium chloride (EPTAC) as shown in Fig. 2. CHPTAC
is converted to EPTAC by a 1:1 mole equivalent addi-
tion of sodium hydroxide.
The desired cationization reaction of cellulose is
shown in Fig. 3. There is a competing hydrolysis Fig. 1. Synthesis of CHPTAC.
reaction that renders an unreactive diol (Fig. 3).
Fig. 4 shows the intermediate EPTAC product and
diol byproduct that arise from the parent CHPTAC
molecule. A complete assessment of the synthesis,
health and safety, storage, and use of CHPTAC and
its intermediate EPTAC product and diol byproduct
has been reviewed elsewhere.24 In short, the confusion Fig. 2. Formation of EPTAC from CHPTAC.
and ambiguity as to the safety and/or danger of cel-
lulose cationization using CHPTAC can be directly
attributed to the lack of knowledge of the different
resultant toxicological and ecological effects of
each product. Details of these effects are given in
the references.20-23
Acutely, CHPTAC is very slightly toxic to fish
(LC50 is 4,128 mg/L for Brachydanio rerio)
and only slightly toxic to microorganisms (for
Daphnia magna, the EC50 has been found to be
between 164 mg/L to 240 mg/L, corresponding to
near pure CHPTAC, and a typical 65% solution
of CHPTAC).
Concerning human health, it is important to note
that the pH of most in vitro tests is 7.4, condi-
tions under which considerable EPTAC will be
formed. In other words, the complex human body
and pH variations and subsequent conversion or Fig. 3. Competing reactions of EPTAC with cellulose.
non-conversion of CHPTAC in respect to
pH and temperature dictates that special
consideration and interpretation be given
to test and experimental results regard-
ing toxicity and human health effects of
CHPTAC exposure. Fig. 4. CHPTAC conversion to EPTAC and diol.
incidental to normal handling operations are not pational exposure to EPTAC, the cationization
likely to cause injury. Swallowing larger amounts processes should be designed to introduce CHPTAC
of CHPTAC may cause injury or significant bodily and the alkali required for EPTAC conversion and its
harm. The oral toxicity of CHPTAC is low, with an subsequent reaction with cellulose independently. To
LD50 of 2,800 mg/kg or greater. For repeated doses, minimize occupational exposure, EPTAC solutions
the lowest observed adverse effect level (LOAEL) of should never be handled or transported. Finally, the
1,085 mg/kg/day orally has been reported. Gener- cellulose cationization should be designed so that
ally speaking, the oral toxicity of EPTAC is moderate the EPTAC is consumed by fixation with cotton or
with an LD50 of 400-800 mg/kg. EPTAC is irritating hydrolyzed to the diol so that EPTAC release to the
to eyes (corneal damage is likely), skin and mucous environment is minimized. Models are available that
membranes, and toxic to the kidneys. CHPTAC predict the half life of EPTAC solutions with respect
current classification is Carcinogen Category 3. All to temperature and pH.25 The CHPTAC provider
in-vitro mutagenicity tests conducted with CHPTAC should be able to provide the appropriate reaction
have given a positive result; however, these results conditions to promote EPTAC use. Using these
can be complicated due to the purity (or percent guidelines,25 large scale demonstrations of cotton
solids of CHPTAC in the test) and the pH of the tests. cationizations and dyeings were undertaken with 55
Consequently, even if CHPTAC is not a mutagen, pound sample lots.
in accommodating test conditions, CHPTAC can
convert to EPTAC, a known carcinogen. Large Scale Cationization
Concerning in-vivo mutagenicity, one study has given Demonstrations
negative in-vivo mutagenicity, but because of the lack
Sample lots (55 pounds ) of a traditional fiber reac-
of further experimental data, there remains some
tive cotton dyeing (STD), and an exhaust (EXH)
uncertainty about in-vivo mutagenicity, and no defi-
cationized and cold pad batch (CPB) cationized
nite conclusions can be warranted without additional
cotton were prepared and dyed to the same depth
testing. CHPTAC did not produce skin tumors in a
of shade and color, a medium depth green, using
two-year skin painting study. CHPTAC is not a local
conventional fiber reactive dyes. Dyeings were car-
carcinogen in mice when administered via skin but
ried out in a Fongs sample jet dyer at an 8:1 liquor
there is a possibility that it is a systemic carcinogen
ratio (LR). The EXH-treated cationic sample was
based on increased incidence of bronchiolo-alveolar
treated in the same jet dyer at the same LR. The
tumors. However, when carefully scrutinized, the
CPB-treated sample was padded at 120% wet pickup
strength of these incidences seems relatively weak.
and batched 24 h before loading into the jet dyer. The
Therefore, CHPTAC is currently classified as a
cationized samples were neutralized in the jet dyer
Carcinogen Category 3 compared to EPTAC, which
prior to dyeing. Complete procedures for bleaching,
is classified as a Carcinogen Category 2. In addition,
neutralization, cationization, dyeing, and rinsing are
in all CHPTAC use scenarios, the principal concern
shown in the Appendix. The fabric used was a light-
is the conversion of CHPTAC to EPTAC. EPTAC
weight tubular cotton knit (5.5 oz interlock) that was
is a genotoxic carcinogen and powerful skin sensi-
bleached before cationization and slit in the case for
tizer. There is very little information on reproductive
the CPB cationization. The bleach process used was
toxicity regarding CHPTAC exposure. In the absence
the same for all trials. Table I shows the consumables
of reproductive toxicity studies, the only effect of
used during the processes with information obtained
CHPTAC observed in reproductive organs was the
using adaptive controls monitoring of the sample
decreased testicular weight after long-term dermal
jet dyer. To avoid redundancy, the formulas used for
exposure in mice with a no observed adverse effect
each process are shown in the cost section with the
level (NOAEL) of 24 mg/kg/day.20
costing information.
The intended take away from this section is twofold.
First, it is important to understand that the interme- Table I.
diate EPTAC product and a diol byproduct can be Consumables Used During 55 Pound Processes
formed from CHPTAC cationization reagent, each Time Water Used Steam Used Power Used
(min) (L) (lb) (kW-h)
with their own toxicological and ecological effects.
Standard 193 5,111 102 12
Secondly, it is important to clarify that CHPTAC is
a fairly nontoxic chemical reagent, but to be made CPB Treated 1,595 3,831 48 9
reactive with cellulose, it must be converted into EXH Treated 240 3,432 132 14
EPTAC, a known carcinogen. To prevent occu- Bleach 174 3,481 211 3
Excluding the bleaching, the EXH and CPB applica- Table II.
tions, dyeings, and rinsings used roughly 75% of Color Properties of 55 Pound Lots
the amount of water as the STD dyeing and rinsing L* a* b*
process, including the neutralization baths required STD 46.91 -13.82 24.17
after cationization. Furthermore, steam requirements ΔL* Δa* Δb* ΔEcmc % Strength
were cut by more than half for the CPB total applica- EXH 0.64 -0.23 1.10 0.67 97.4
tion process, but required about 30% more steam
CPB -1.37 -0.43 1.64 1.11 114
for the EXH total process. Power savings were also
observed for the CPB process, using only ~75% of
Table III.
the amount as the STD dyeing while the full EXH 55 Pound Lots QC Data
process required ~15% more power than the stan-
CPB EXH STD
dard. To validate the environmental and raw material
Levelness (ΔEcmc) 0.27 0.21 0.12
savings found, quality control (QC) tests for dyed
Wet Crock 4.5 4.5 4
cationized cotton must perform as well as STD fiber
reactive dyed cotton. Dry Crock 5 5 4.5
20 h Lightfastness 5 5 4.5
Typical color assessment QC tests were conducted
40 h Lightfastness 4.5 4.5 4.5
on the three 55 pound sample lots including AATCC
IIA Cotton 3.5 3 3.5
Test Method (TM) 16-2004, Colorfastness to Light;
AATCC TM 8-2007, Colorfastness to Crocking: IIA Nylon 3.5 3 3
lot. Table V shows the cationization treatment costs 35% H202 4 800 1.6308
for CPB and EXH applications. Table VI shows the 56% Acetic 1 100 0.1872
STD dyeing cost. Table VII shows the cationic dye- Bleach/lb US$0.1278/lb
ing cost. Table VIII shows the estimated consumable
costs. Table IX shows the process consumable costs
per pound of fabric. Table X shows the total cost of Table V.
Cationization Treatment Costs
each lot from bleaching to dyeing.
Conc. Weight (g) Cost (US$)
The cationic dyeings cost less than half the amount CPB-Treat 40L (g)
of the STD dyeing, used no salt, and saved nearly CHPTAC soln. 36 g/L 1,440 3.9648
1/3 the amount of dye. Excluding the consumables 50% NaOH 19.9 g/L 776 1.7209
used in the bleaching process, the cost for STD
EXH-Treat 200L (g)
dyeing consumables was US$0.1724/lb, CPB dyeing
CHPTAC soln. 16.5% 4,125 11.3574
consumables was US$0.1076/lb, and EXH dyeing
50% NaOH 2:1 mole 2,281 5.0577
consumables was US$0.1806/lb, only slightly more
than the STD dyeing cost. Including the bleach Neutralization
costs, the total cost for STD dyeing from prepara- EXH 56% Acetic 1 g/L 200 0.3745
tion to dyeing was US$0.9312/lb. Similarly, for the CPB 56% Acetic 0.75 g/L 150 0.2809
EXH treatment process, the cost was US$1.0238/lb, CPB treat/lb US$0.1085/lb
an increase of approximately 10%. For the CPB total EXH treat/lb US$0.3053/lb
process, the cost was US$0.7541/lb, decreasing the
cost to roughly 75% the cost of STD dyeing while
Table VI.
cutting all consumables of the dyeing process— STD Dyeing Cost
water, steam, and power. Although EXH treatment Conc. Weight (g) Cost (US$)
increased the total cost of dyed goods production,
CI Reactive Yellow 206 0.94% 235 4.5551
if bleaching and EXH processes can be combined,
CI Reactive Red 238 0.05% 13 0.2327
consumables costs for the separate cationiza-
CI Reactive Br. Blue 268 0.52% 130 6.7491
tion process can be excluded. If a similar fixation
efficiency can be obtained with optimization of this Sodium Sulfate 40 g/L 8,000 7.8537
type of combined process, then the US$0.1806/lb Soda Ash 12 g/L 2,400 2.4026
cost for the separate EXH cationization step can be Dispersant 1.5 g/L 300 0.8722
subtracted from the US$1.0238/lb to give a new cost Lubricant 1 g/L 200 0.3656
of US$0.8432/lb saving consumables and money. STD dyeing/lb US$0.4187/lb
Furthermore, when increasing the LR of the EXH
application, cationization efficiency decreases.24 If Table VII.
the EXH application can be made in a low LR jet Cationic Dyeing Cost
dyer such as an air jet at 5:1 LR or lower, then signif- Conc. Weight (g) Cost (US$)
icant reductions in CHPTAC used can be expected, CI Reactive Yellow 206 0.708% 177.0 3.4308
in turn decreasing the cost of EXH applications. CI Reactive Red 238 0.018% 4.5 0.0838
Appendix Drain
Fill
to 000%
at 080F to 075%
Table A.1. Rinse 120F 70% 10 min
55 Pound Bleach Jet Procedure Drain to 000%
Command Parameters Fill at 160F to 075%
Insert Program 600 - Batch Weight Temperature 9.9 TO 160F
Fill at 080F to 100% Heat 9.9 TO 200F
Add Fill Lev:10% From:1 Run 10 min
Add Prepare Prompt:00 Cool 9.9 TO 160F
Add Dose 00m C:0 Drain to 000%
Load Fabric — Fill at 080F to 075%
Add Prepare Prompt:00 Rinse 100F 25% 10 min
Add Fill Lev:10% From:1
Find Seams —
Add Dose 00m C:0
Drain to 000%
Add Prepare Prompt:00
Unload Machine Drain? 0/1:0
Add Fill Lev:10% From:1
Add Dose 00m C:0
Heat 9.9 TO 225F
Run 35 min
Cool 5.0 TO 160F
Drain to 000%
Fill at 120F to 100%
Table A.3.
55 Pound Cationic Exhaust Treatment Jet Procedure
Rinse 160F 70% 10 min
Drain to 000% Command Parameters Notes
Fill at 120F to 100% Insert Program 600 - Batch Weight —
Rinse 160F 70% 10mins Fill at 000F to 100% —
Drain to 000% Add Prepare Prompt:00 —
Fill at 120F to 100% Add Fill Lev:15% From:1 —
Add Fill Lev:10% From:0 Add Dose 00m C:0 NaOH
Add Prepare Prompt:00
Add Prepare Prompt:00 —
Add Dose 00m C:0
Add Fill Lev:15% From:1 —
Temperature 9.9 TO 140F
Heat 5.0 TO 112F —
Run 10 min
Drain to 000% Add Dose 10m C:0 CR2000
Fill at 160F to 100% Run 20 min —
Rinse 100F 70% 10 min Heat 5.0 TO 185F —
pH Check Low:06.0 High:07.0 B:0 Run 50 min —
Unload Machine Drain? 0/1:0 Cool 5.0 TO 160F —
Drain to 000% Drain to 000% —
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PAPERS
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