SUGGESTED GUIDELINES FOR CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION

A. VALUE
• The value of the garment justifies the expenditure of time, money and care.
• The amount of wear the garment will receive justifies the time spent on making it.
• The time or money required to keep the garment in good condition is reasonable.

B. GRAINLINE
• Grainlines are observed in garment places.
• Pile or directional design fabrics are cut in one direction.
• Plaids, checks, and stripes are matched as close as possible.

C. THREAD AND STITCHING

• Thread is suitable in weight and color.
• Straight even stitching is of suitable length with correct tension.
• Suitable hand stitching techniques.
• Standard stitching is 10-12 stitches per inch.

D. STAY-STITCHING
• Stay-stitching may be used on curved or bias edge to prevent stretching or distortion of fabric grain. It
should be placed on the seam allowance 1/8" from the seam line.

E. SEAMS
• Smooth seam lines with uniform width, straight stitching in the proper direction with 5/8" seam
allowance unless pattern specifies otherwise.
• Where necessary, seams are graded to eliminate bulk. Example: collar with facing, cuffs, on knits -
from notch to notch in the crotch area and on the underarm of armholes.
• Seams pressed properly - no edge imprints on right side.
• Seam finish is appropriate for fabric and the intended use and care of the garment. Example: If
woven fabric ravels, zig-zag, overcast or bind. Most knits need no special finish.
• Around armholes and in crotch - either two rows of stitching 1/8" apart or single row of stretch
stitching.
• Grade or trim out bulky spots. (Knits are graded)

F. DARTS, PLEATS, TUCKS, GATHERS

• Smooth and free from imprint on right side.
• Use suitable pressing techniques.
• Correctly spaced.
• Darts are tapered gradually to a smooth point.
• Threads are fastened securely using one of three methods: chaining off as on knits; bar-tacking as on
most medium to heavy woven fabrics; or tie threads, which could be used on either.
• If it is an open dart where stitching shows from the right side, then it can be sewn with the one-thread
method.
• Gathers are evenly distributed.

G. FACING
• Smooth and inconspicuous.
• Does not show on the right side.
• Grade or trim bulky areas.
• Understitching – follow pattern recommendations
• Fitted facings should be tacked to the garment at seam lines by hand or stitch “in the ditch”
• A poly-bond can be used to hold a front facing down.
• Narrow bias facings may be hemmed to the garment.
• Rickrack may be applied to neck and sleeve edge without a facing.
• Ribbing can be used to finish off a neck or sleeve edge.

H. COLLARS & CUFFS

• Lie smoothly with none of the facings showing on the right side. Excess bulk is trimmed from seams to
give smooth, sharp edges. Collars and cuffs are centered, front and back.
• Points and curves are the same shape and length on both sides of garment opening. Mock cuffs can
be used as on pants.

I. SLEEVES
• A set-in sleeve has a smooth, rounded cap, free from pleats, gathers, or puckers unless in the pattern.
• A sleeve is set into a garment with straight even stitching and well matched seam lines.
• Two rows of stitching 1/8" apart is preferred to prevent seams from breaking.
• Reinforce gusset.
• Seams pressed toward sleeve.
• Don't press a crease in the sleeve unless pattern calls for it.
• Garments made of knits should be graded from notch to notch on the underarm.

J. WAISTLINE TREATMENT
• Seams are smooth and flat with no excess bulk.
• Belts are appropriately selected, with belt loops provided.
• Elasticized waist is accepted if properly finished.
• Skirt band fasteners are securely attached and area of a size and style appropriate to the band and
fabric used.
• The skirt band is even in width and is of appropriate width to prevent curling or rolling.

K. CLOSURES - HOOKS-EYES, SNAPS, ZIPPERS, BUTTONS

• Closures should be suitable for fabric and style of garment.
• Unless used as decorative trim, closures are inconspicuous.
• Buttons are attached with shank of sufficient length to permit a flat closure.
• A buttonhole is long enough to allow the button to pass through easily.
• Buttonhole is made on straight of grain unless pattern indicates otherwise.
• Zipper is set-in in such a way that it slides easily.
• Plackets are smooth and free from gaps or puckers.
• Both the invisible and regular type of zipper may be used.
• The method and type of zipper used is determined by the fabric and position of closure.
• Plackets are smooth and free from gaps or puckers.

L. HEMS
• The hem is inconspicuous from the right side of the garment unless it is used as decorative trim.
• The hemming technique should be suitable for the intended use of the garment.
• Jeans need durable machine stitching.
• The machine stitched hem is only to be used at the leader's discretion or pattern instruction.
• The finish of hems depends on the fabric - firmness or looseness.
• Hand hemming is done with very small stitches taken on the garment side of hem (pick up one or two
threads) and about 1/2" apart. Do not pull thread tight. Finish on hem or seam (never on garment
side) with a few over-and-over stitches, ending with a loop or two. Clip thread, not too close.
• The width of the hem is even and suited to the style and fabric of the garment (check your pattern
guide sheet). Any fullness is eased in and evenly distributed.
• Some variation of finishing hems - use tape or lace, turn up 1/4", or zigzagging. Which one is used
depends on the garment and type of fabric.

M. LININGS AND INTERFACINGS

• Lining fabric is suitable to the garment finish and fabric comparable in cleaning and pressing
requirements to that of the garment fabric.
• The lining fits well into the garment and is not visible on the right side of the garment.
• The choice of interfacing and its placement are suitable to the garment fabric and design, correct
weight etc. It is inconspicuous - part of the garment (usually lighter weight than the garment fabric).
• Iron-on interfacing should be applied as directed by pattern.

N. CLEANLINESS AND PRESSING

• The garment is clean and free from stains.
• The garment is smoothly pressed and free from shine and spots or stretched effects on the right side
(not over pressed).
• Edges of seams, hems, darts, etc. are inconspicuous on the right side.
• Pressing is done so under collars and facings do not show.

O. PORTFOLIO INFORMATION
• Complete and clearly presented.

Guidelines for Clothing Evaluation

01/06