Kidswear Construction Guidelines Jan 09

CONFIDENTIAL
CHILDRENSWEAR
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
STANDARDS
Version 1: February 2009
1
M&S CHILDRENSWEAR GROUP
GARMENT CONTRUCTION STANDARDS
INTRODUCTION
The quality of our merchandise is the backbone of our Childrenswear

success. Driving continuous improvements in the Quality of our
products is fundamental to strengthening our brand.
It is essential for the continued development of our joint businesses

that quality is built into our garments from the earliest stages. To this
end, we are issuing product specific, stitch and seam specifications
that are detailed by Product type. All standards given are the minimum
requirements to be used for our products, and may be increased by
the Department Technologist.
No garments should be presented to Marks & Spencer that do not

meet these minimum specifications, unless prior agreement is
obtained with the relevant Technologist.
This is a working document, which will continue to evolve as new

fabrics are developed and garment styles are introduced.
2
CONTENTS PAGE
Page
Number
LIST OF RELEVANT DOCUMENTS 4
MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATION CHART 5-9

- Bottoms 5
- Woven Tops 6
- Jersey Tops 7
- Coats and Jackets 8
- Swimwear 9
IMPORTANT CONSTRUCTION INFORMATION 10
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS 11
SEWING THREADS 12-14
GUIDELINES BY PRODUCT TYPE:

- Woven Bottoms 15-22
- Jersey Bottoms 23-24
- Woven Tops 25-30
- Jersey Tops 31-33
- Dresses 34-35
- Knitwear 36-38
- Coats and Jackets 39-42
- Formal Suits and Jackets 43-46
- Non-woven Swimwear 47-49
- Woven Swimwear 50-52
- Lingerie 53
- Nightwear 54
3
RELEVANT DOCUMENTS
Following area a list of documents that have been referred to in this

‘Garment Construction Standards’ which can be found on the Quality
Standard website are:-
QMS
Product Safety Audit for Inline testing
Kidswear Safety Manual
Care Label positioning
Performance standards for clothing components
Environmental Code of Practice
Nickel Guidelines
Elusive Yellowing Guidelines
Best Practice for Bias Cutting
CLA Website
Pre-Production Risk Assessment
DHA (Design Hazard assessment)
Dress-up construction guidelines
4
BOTTOMS
MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATION
Minimum Min. Stitches

Stitch Type Application
Seam Bight per 3cms
2 Thread Overlock Pre-neaten hems 3mm 14-18
3 Thread Overlock Finishing edges of facings, 3mm 14-18
Pre-neaten open seams, hems, 3mm 23-25
vents, fly facings
4 Thread Joining of skirt & lining seams 6mm 16 – 18
Overlock Joining of all trouser/skirt seams 8-10mm
Closing pocket bags 8-10mm
5 Thread Joining of all trouser seams 10mm 16 – 18
Overlock Closing pocket bags
Single Needle Folderband waistbands 8-10
Double Lock
Chainstitch
Lockstitch Sink stitching waistband As 14 – 16
Constructing darts, fly, facings etc required
Joining pre-neatened (open) seams 16 – 18
Topstitching, attaching pockets, As
jet, tabs, bindings etc required
As required
As
required
Felling: Top & Securing of garment hems Top fell 7-8
Underlip Underlip 5-6
Lockstitch As As required to
Buttonholes required achieve good
dependent density to
on fabric conceal edges
Lockstitch Bartack Attach belt loops Depends Depends on
Across welt/jet pocket ends, at top on width length of bar
and bottom of ¼ angle pockets etc required tack
At base of ‘J’ stitching on fly
5
WOVEN TOPS
MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATION
Minimum Min. Stitches

Seam Bight per 3cms
3 Thread Finishing edges of facings, 3mm 16 – 18
Overlock seams, hems, pre- neaten vents 3mm 23 – 25
Merrow/Hanky edges pre – bind * Ensuring
attach curled finger is
used
4 Thread Joining of all seams 6mm 16 – 18
Overlock Finishing dart edges
5 Thread Joining of all seams 7mm 16 – 18
Overlock
Lockstitch Constructing collars, cuffs, tabs As required 14 – 16
etc
As required 16 – 18
All topstitching, attaching and
securing of collars, fronts, cuffs,
pockets, epaulettes, tabs and
bindings
Felling Securing of facings, cuff and 5mm Normal – 8

garment hems Underlip – 6
Lockstitch As required As required to
Buttonholes dependent on achieve good
fabric density to
conceal edges
Lockstitch Attach motifs/bows and secure – 28
Spot Tack seam ends
Lockstitch Secure/flatten seam ends Depends on 42

Bartack seam width
and security
required
6
JERSEY TOPS
MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS
Minimum Stitches per

Stitch Type Application Seam 3cms
Bight/Gauge (minimum)
Lockstitch Attach trims N/A 12 – 14

Attach back neck label
Attach facings
Secure chain off
For Buttonsew/Buttonhole see separate business spec
3 Thread Edge neatening 5mm 16*

Overlock Attach trims prior to top
sewing
4 Thread Shoulder seams 6mm 16*

Overlock Sleeve insertion
Side seams
Attach facings
Collar closure/Assembly
Chainstitch** Attach bindings N/A 16

Sew hems
Neck finish
Chainstitch must be single needle double lock chainstitch to avoid runback.
Twin Needle Body hem 3.2mm 16*

(bottom cover) Sleeve hem 4.8mm
Binding attach 5.6mm
3 Needle Decorative top stitching 3.2mm 16*

(top cover) Body hem 4.8mm
Sleeve Hem 5.6mm
* NB reduce stitches by 3-4 per 3cm for bulk thread where stretch is
not required and to be increased to up to 22+ where high levels of
stretch are needed.
7
COATS & JACKETS
MINIMUM Stitches per

Bight/Seam width 2.5cms
Lockstitch * Shoulder seams. Side seams. 1cm 10 – 12

Side panels. Back seam.
Collar stands. Back neck seams.
Sleeve seams. Armhole seams.
* Collar edge. Front edge. Flap 5mm
seams. 10 – 12
* Lining attach to facing 1cm
* Lining seams 1cm 10 – 12
NB – will require overlock edge 10 – 12
finishing
3 thread Overlock Neatening hems or lining edges 6mm 10 – 12
2 thread Overlock Neatening hems or lining edges 6mm 10 – 12
4 thread safety Lining & body seams 9mm – 1cm 10 – 12
stitch
5 thread safety Lining & body seams 9mm – 1cm 10 – 12
stitch
* On open hems, finish ends must be fully secured/locked in position to avoid runback
Lockstitch edge Standard and threads to be agreed
stitching or top with the Buyer / Technologist as to tbc tbc
stitching the design and performance
requirements
Lockstitch Button Attaching 2 or 4 hole buttons and Dependent on 18 + 3 tying

Attach shanked buttons button and stem stitches
length to * 4 hole buttons
accommodate to have diagonal
fabric thicknesses cross over stitch
when fastened for balanced
attachment
COATS : Buttons should be whipped using

Button ‘whipping’ Ascolite thread. Conventional
whipping machines must be
converted to acceptable thread and
automatic heat-sealing method. NB
ACETONE threads should not be
used for environmental reasons
8
SWIMWEAR
stitch type Application minimum stitches per

seam bight 3cm
Three Thread Seams joined prior to 4mm 16-18
Overlock coverseaming
Gusset seams
Pre-attach waist/leg
elastics
Open out overlock
NB. This may vary
depending on fabric/ seam
to agree standard on 4mm 32-34
individual basis
Four Thread Overlock All side seams 5/6mm 16-18
Panel Seams
Twin Needle Waist / leg elastic attach 4/5mm 20-22
Coverseam Gusset seams
Three Needle Waist/ leg attach 5/6mm 20-22
Coverseam/ Flatlock Panel / gusset seams
Single step zig-zag Elastic Attach/gussets Depends on 18-20
Power net attach application
Single Needle Badge or motif attach n/a 16-18

Lockstitch
Lockstitch Bar Tack Secure / flatten seam Depends on 42
edges seam width
Lockstitch Spot tack/ and security 28
buttonsew Secure stitch overlaps required
to be agreed
Attach bow/ motif
NB: These are minimum standards. Increased stitch may be

necessary dependant on fabric.
9
IMPORTANT CONSTRUCTION INFORMATION
– Relating to all Product Areas -
GENERAL
Needle damage, snagging or uncut yarns in button holes are
unacceptable.
Cut edges, threads and components must not irritate the skin or
snag other fabrics.
All topstitching must be parallel to edges / seams unless
otherwise stated as a styling feature.
Stitching repairs are NOT ACCEPTABLE in any areas of
topstitching.
All seams, hems and cuffs must not have any joins in the stitching
All binding must be finished with no raw edges visible.
All binding joins must not be visible and turned in the front
presentation area. This must be discussed at the fitting stage
with the departmental Technologist.
For all Bias cut garments please refer to the ‘Best Practice for Bias
Cutting’ (QMS website)
Tension must be correctly set to eliminate pucker and prevent
grinning seams
All components – refer to safety manual.
Hook and bar fastenings, where permitted, must be fully enclosed
i.e. inside of the bar must not be exposed to the wearer on the
inside of the garment. (Move to GENERAL AT FRONT)
Stitching
Single needle lockstitch must not be used for jersey/stretch
fabrics, unless agreed by the departmental Technologist
Cover Seam
The stitching must cover the raw edge of the fabric, internally
unless otherwise specified.
All circular hems to have finishing threads fully secured.
Hem depth can vary depending on styling however depths over
2cm are not recommended due to roping.
10
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
Check & Stripe Matching

This is required on ALL fabrics unless agreed otherwise with the
department technologist.
Check fabrics must be treated as one way unless agreed with
departmental Technologist.
ALL checks and stripes must be matched to the following:-
Horizontally CF seam
CB seam
Side seams
Front and back panel seams
Sleeve to be matched to body
Vertically Mirrored at the CF and CB.
Stripe matching is required on ALL striped
fabrics unless otherwise agreed with the
Department Technologist.
Pairing Collars, Reveres, Sleeves, Pockets and Flap
details
Whilst this is for ALL checks and stripes, this can be discussed
and confirmed at the design sample stage with the department
Technologist.
Cutting of one way designs in both directions must be agreed by
the department Technologist based on a product specific required
and discussed at the initial design/costing stage.
Pile Fabric
Velvet, velveteen, cord fabrics and any other pile fabrics must be
treated as one way. Direction of cut pile to be agreed with
department technologist.
11
SEWING THREADS – Definitions
Thread Type Definition Benefits Concerns
Core Spun A sewing thread Excellent on Viewed as more costly

constructed of 2, machine sewing by garment
3 or 4 plies of performance manufacturers, even
yarn with each of delivering high though when compared
these plies levels of seam to staple spun sewing
consisting of a quality and threads, quality and
high tenacity core productivity. The productivity are
of continuous high tenacity of improved and repairs /
filaments of corespun threads returns are reduced.
polyester (unless facilitates the use of
otherwise fine sewing needles,
prescribed) thereby
wrapped with contributing to
either polyester or reductions in seam
cotton staple puckering and
where required potential needle
damage to the
fabrics.
Staple Spun A sewing thread "A" quality staple Reductions in
constructed 2, 3 spun polyester productivity through
or 4 plies of yarns threads will provide increased levels of
made of 100% good sewing thread breakage on the
polyester staple performance machines. More joined
fibre. Staple spun provided that the and / or unpicked and
threads may be of demands of the repaired seams. Lower
100% cotton sewing application overall seam quality,
staple fibre where and the demands when compared to core
required i.e. 100% on the sewn seams spun threads.
cotton garment are no too high. The
dye programs) main benefit of
staple spun
polyester is that it is
lower in "price" than
core spun thread.
12
Bulk Thread A sewing thread Textured threads Textured threads are
made from provide excellent sometimes used in the
textured seam coverage and needles of chainstitch
continuous softness in the derived stitch types to
filaments of seams. deliver softness, higher
*polyester. elongation and cost
Bulk or Textured reduction. It is
threads are important to note that
primarily designed textured threads are
for use as looper not as "forgiving" as
threads on corespun threads and
chainstitch therefore the settings
derived stitch and condition of the
types such as sewing machines
chainstitch, require more detailed
overlock and attention if good
coverstitch. performance is to be
*May also be achieved.
nylon where
agreed with the
departmental
Technologist.
13
SEWING THREADS – GENERAL
All threads must be bought from an approved supplier.

Core spun threads must be used in all seams to prevent thread
breakdown causing returns.
Threads must be spun and folded evenly. They must be of
uniform thickness throughout and free of defects.
Finished threads must meet all the relevant performance
standards stated on the QM website.
Sewing threads must be tested on an individual bases to reflect
the processes that are required in the end use of the product. E.g.
Garment dying
Garment washing
Pleating
Dry Cleaning
Swimwear
No monofilament thread is allowed in M&S production unless
otherwise agreed by the departmental technologist. Also refer to
safety manual.
Threads must be stored under proper storage conditions which
are to the correct temperate, humidity and low light exposure to
ensure they should not deteriorate. All threads should be used
within 2 to 3 years as it increases the risk of mildew and colour
fading if the storage conditions are not adhered to and they are
not used within this given time
All white and cream threads should be treated with chemical
finishes to prevent phenolic yellowing.
14
WOVEN BOTTOMS
CONTENTS
SEAMS
HEMS
WAISTBANDS – FULL AND PART ELASTICATED
ADJUSTABLE WAIST
FLY CONSTRUCTION
POCKETS
POCKET BAGS
LININGS
VENTS
DUNGAREES
TABLE OF MINIMUM CONSTRUCTIN SPECIFICATION
15
WOVEN BOTTOMS
SEAMS
Back rise seam – this seam is put under a large amount of stress
and should be 4 or 5 thread overlocked to provide movement and
security.
Pressed open back rise seams must be double lockstitched.
All Formal trousers should be made using tubular construction
down the leg seams for a better fit and quality. Any exception to
this must be discussed with the departmental Technologist.
grinning seams
SEAMS ON DENIM BOTTOMS
Back rise seam and back yoke seams to be lapped and twin needle
stitched – style dependent.
Inside leg, outside leg and front rise seams to be 5 thread
overlocked – style dependent.
16
HEMS
Double Turned
On narrow hems both turnings to be of equal depth e.g. 1cm +
1cm
On wide hems the first turn must be a minimum of 0.5cm.
Where metal components are attached, the first and second turn
must be equal surface.
To be stitched with lockstitch.
Maximum overlap of stitching on circular hem to be 1.5cm and
Minimum 1.0cm
Cover Seam
The stitching must cover the raw edge of the fabric, internally.
2cm are not recommended due to roping
Felled
To be pre-overlocked
Felling to start and finish on the back panel close to inside leg
seam
Maximum felling overlap on circular hem to be 1.5cm and
Minimum 1.0cm
Trouser and unlined skirt hems to be top felled
N.B. Felled hems must be secured at both leg seams with KK1 or
similar fusible tape at both side seams. This tape can be inserted at
the raw edge overlook operation and bonded at the hem pressing
stage. This is a mandatory requirement used to reduce customer
returns for hems coming down.
Any alternative methods must be discussed with and agreed by the
departmental technologist.
17
WAISTBANDS - FULL AND PART Elasticated
To be attached through a folder where possible.

Elastic to be continuous through complete band and MUST be
fully enclosed.
Elastic waistbands must be chainstitched to allow the garment to
Stretch. Lockstitching is not acceptable under any
circumstances.
The rows of chainstitch must be securely locked off
ADJUSTABLE WAISTBAND
Elastic must be secured at both ends with double turn and lock
stitch.
Elastic must be fixed at centre back to prevent twisting.
Where possible the button should be attached to the inner
waistband facing only and this should be reinforced with fusing.
This is to prevent stitch being visible on face of garment.
Exception to this is washed garments where buttons are
attached after wash.
FLY CONSTRUCTION
Zip – when using, refer to Childrenswear safety manual.
Front Fly
To ensure adequate zip cover the ‘step method’ is required –
minimum coverage 8mm
Fly opening direction:
- Female - Right over left (unless specified by designer)
- Male - Left over right
Safety bar tack to be placed internally 3mm above slider when in
it’s lowest position
Mock Fly (Zip not permitted on under 5yr on boyswear)

Bar tack 3cm below waistband to prevent gaping.
18
Side/Centre Back Zips
Invisible zip must be used, unless otherwise agreed
Zip is inserted Left Hand Side As Worn
Garments without waistbands, must have an extra fastening at
the top of the zip to take the strain.
A bagged out placket must be used. This must be attached to
the back panel and be pressed forward.
Alternative methods must be discussed and agreed with the
departmental technologist at the sample stage.
19
POCKETS
All functional pockets should be reinforced with bar tack.
POCKET BAGS
It is advised on Tight or light coloured trousers to have bottom
edge of pockets bags to be on the fold, to minimise show
through
LININGS
All skirt linings to be bias cut unless otherwise agreed with the
departmental technologist. If straight cut linings must be a minimum
of 2cm larger than the outer fabric.
Lining differential
2cm difference between the lining and hem on ALL lined skirts,
unless otherwise agreed by the departmental Technologist
All lining hems are to be narrow and double turned, unless
alternatives are agreed
Linings used on dry clean only skirts must be bagged out at the
placket and vent/split
Vents/Splits on washable skirt linings must be keyhole as this is
more practical for the customer after wash. Keyhole to be bound
in self fabric.
All vents on skirt outer must be reinforced at the top of the vent
through a bar tack or tape.
For all Bias cut garments please refer to the ‘Best Practice for
Bias Cutting’ on quality standards website.
Half & Fully Lined Trousers

All lining must either be:
i. Overlocked neatened at the hem
ii. Cut with selvage edge at bottom (half lined trousers only)
Around the fly area the lining must be keyhole
Darts suppression must be replaced by pleats on trouser/skirt
linings.
20
Jersey lining
P5 test required to check differential shrinkage and ensure lining
does not fall below hem of shell.
Self woven fabric must be used for facing on waistband, jersey
facing not suitable.
21
VENTS
Back vent facings to be 5.0cm wide

Vent tack to be a 30-degree angle
Tolerance for split lengths +/-0.5cm
Minimum hem circumference and stride length to come from
the blocks. Each style to be assessed through the fitting
process and wearer trials.
NB The minimum hem circumference will depend on the fabric.

The above measurements are for high stretch fabrics and will
increase for PVL fabrics or similar
DUNGAREES
Strap ends must be overlocked and lock stitched to secure.

Metal components must be secure through the strap.
22
JERSEY BOTTOMS
CONTENTS
GENERAL
HEMS
POCKETS
23
JERSEY BOTTOMS
GENERAL
Use of single needle chainstitch must be double lock construction

Use of lockstitch is limited to embellishment and reinforcement
stitches.
Not to be used in areas where stretch is required unless bulk
thread with maximum stitch density is incorporated.
Seams must not crack in wear. If holding stitches are required,
they must be pre-cracked after overlocking.
Left hand knives to be used where possible on coverseam
machines – maximum fringing to be 1mm.
HEMS
Cover Seam and Flat Lock

The stitching must cover the raw edge of the fabric, internally.
Reinforcement
Row of lock stitch required at seams on cuff and hem to secure
hem turn up.
POCKETS
All functional pockets should be reinforced with bar tack.
POCKET BAGS
It is advised on Tight or light coloured trousers to have bottom
edge of pockets bags to be on the fold, to minimise show
through
24
Woven Tops
CONTENTS
GENERAL
SEAMS
HEMS
DARTS AND TUCKS
COLLARS
CUFFS
FACING
VENTS AND SPLITS
POCKETS
BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLES
ZIP OPENINGS
STRAP ADJUSTERS
BINDINGS
TABLE OF MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATION
25
WOVEN TOPS
GENERAL
High seam slippage fabric where necessary must be wearer

trialled.
SEAMS
All seams must not have any joins in the stitching.

Stitch type, thread type and tension must be chosen to be suitable
for the fabric and type of seam, e.g. Extensibility, fraying,
slippage and laddering should be considered.
grinning seams
GIRLS TOPS
Fabric/Seam slippage – 5 thread overlocked seams should be
used if seam slippage is an issue. This must be assessed through
risk assessment and wearer trials
Consider bias cutting to prevent seam slippage.
French Seams – must fully include all plies.
BOYS TOPS
All seams must have a double lap seam finish and include all
piles.
HEMS
Sleeve and bottom hem start and finish to be within 1cm of
underarm and side seam to the back of garment.
Hems must not rope
Hem spirality is not permitted on any garments
Double Turned
To be flat without roping or pucker
Recommend that hem is not deeper than 2cm
26
Pin Hem
All pin hems must be overlocked neatened first, with a 3 thread
overlocker
Lockstitch to be centred in the overlocking
Baby/Super Overlocking
Start/finish overrun must be neat, not visible from the CF and all
thread ends trimmed
Coverseam
Coverseam gauge depends on styling and machine set-up
DARTS AND TUCKS
Dart ends must be tapered to ensure a flat appearance without

bubbling at points or distortion of fabric
Tucks/Dart ends must be securely finished. When using the run-
off method, the permitted length of thread ends are maximum of
2cm (exception to safety manual)
Paired darts/tucks must be equal in size and equidistant from the
centre of the garment
Position marking or drill holes must not be visible on the outside
of garment.
Drill holes must only be used where chalk marks are not
compatible with the fabric in bulk production.
COLLARS
Collars must be consistent in all dimensions, left to right side.

Closing stitch row must be concealed in neck seam ‘fold’
Collar lead edges to be of equal length and symmetrical.
Unsymmetrical/swinging collars are unacceptable.
Shawl collars proportion and width should be balanced.
27
The collar fold or ‘breakline‘ should be smooth and free from
wrinkling.
Under collars should be cut smaller than top collars to avoid
excessive fullness.
Folded collar edges should cover the back neck seam.
Collar and collar stand to be bagged out
Collars must be free from delamination
Interlining weight must be appropriate to the fabric base to
ensure collar stand doesn’t collapse
Where collar bones are required they must be inserted into the
collar points, it must be central to angle of point and caught by
topstitch. (Collar bones should not be removable)
Neck opening linings and facings to be under stitched to prevent
rolling.
CUFFS
ALL cuff vents to be pre-neatened using Merrow/hanky edge

finish to avoid bindings pulling off
Cuff attachment should always be finished circular
Cuff area must be free from delamination
All topstitching should be done on a lockstitch machine.
VENTS AND SPLITS
Side vents to be boxed out prior to seam closure, double turned

and lockstitched. Overlocked edge finish on vents is not
acceptable.
All vents and splits must be security stitched at the top of the
opening either by an internal or external bar tack.
28
POCKETS
On functional pockets, top edges corners must be either bar

tacked or securely back tacked
Patch pockets should be overlocked prior to attachment.
BUTTON AND BUTTON HOLES
Button Holes
Must use a cutting system i.e. ‘Crush-cut’ to ensure clean cutting
of all yarns.
Any yarns left uncut which may cause fabric / yarn pulling are not
acceptable
Rouleau Loops – must be compatible to size of button. (Refer to
safety manual for loop requirements)
Ensure the buttonhole is the correct size for the button
ZIP OPENING
All zip openings must have a zip guard to prevent direct skin
contact with the zip teeth during use.
For all zip component requirements please refer to Childrenswear
safety manual.
The garment should be reinforced where applicable, to prevent
undue strain on the bottom of zips when fully opened
STRAPS AND ADJUSTERS
Adjusters must be nickel free, dyed to match, and coated metal

adjusters.
The metal adjusters must not chip in wash or wear.
Plastic Adjusters should not be used as they break in wear causing
RTM’s.
Straps must be 8mm or wider. (Exception is spaghetti straps)
Narrow straps are uncomfortable and break during wear.
29
BINDING
Stitching repairs are NOT ACCEPTABLE in any areas of binding.

All binding must be finished with no raw edges visible.
Binding depth must be a minimum of 8mm, otherwise it pulls
away from the main body fabric causing RTM’s
Fabric with high seam slippage; To prevent the binding pulling
away from the main body fabric, pre-overlock the seams prior to
binding
30
JERSEY TOPS
CONTENTS
GENERAL
HEMS
NECKS / COLLARS
VENTS/SPLITS
POCKETS
TABLE OF MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATION
31
JERSEY TOPS
GENERAL
Use of single needle chainstitch must be double lock construction

Use of lockstitch must be limited to small areas ONLY i.e. collars.
Not to be used in areas where stretch is required unless bulk
thread with maximum stitch density is incorporated.
Seams must not crack in wear. If holding stitches are required,
they must be pre-cracked after overlocking.
Left hand knives to be used where possible on coverseam
machines – maximum fringing to be 1mm.
Framillon tape is required on shoulder seams on Older Age group
(6 yrs upwards)
Tape to run the full length of shoulder seam.
All sheering elastic to be lock stitch secured at the beginning and
end to prevent rollback.
HEMS AND SLEEVE ENDS
Sleeve hem and bottom hem - start and finish to be within 1cm of
underarm seam and side seam.
Hems must not rope. Tension must be correct to prevent
tunnelling.
Hem spirality is unacceptable
Baby/Super Overlocking
Start/finish overrun must be neat, not visible from the CF and all
thread ends trimmed
Coverseam
Twin needle coverseam should be used on jersey fabrics
Hem coverseam overlap to be minimum 7mm and maximum
1.5cms with no loose thread ends
Coverseam gauge depends on styling and machine set-up
Hem depth can vary depending on styling however depths over 2cm
are not recommended due to roping
32
NECKS / COLLARS
Neckband joins to be set back 1cm from shoulder to back of

garment or in line with raglan if not a set in sleeve
Taped back necks must have tape ends finished by lockstitch tacks
or bartacks.
VENTS AND SPLITS
Preferred vent construction; side vents to be boxed out prior to

seam closure, double turned and lockstitched.
POCKETS
On functional pocket, top edges of corners must be either bar

tacked or securely back tacked
Patch pockets should be overlocked prior to attachment.
33
DRESSES
CONTENTS
GENERAL
WOVEN DRESSES
JERSEY DRESSES
34
DRESSES
WOVEN DRESSES
See Woven tops and bottoms
JERSEY DRESSES
See Knitted tops and bottoms.
35
KNITWEAR
CONTENTS
KNITTING
LINKING AND MAKE UP
POCKETS
BELTS AND BELT LOOPS
PRESSING PRESENTATION
36
KNITWEAR
KNITTING
All knots to be pulled to the selvedge. All yarn to be spliced. Multi

end knots from cone to cone to be pulled to the reverse.
Ensure the same knitting lot / blend is used for all trims, i.e., neck
trims, belts, pockets, etc.
Fabric must not have evidence of barre.
Ribs on welt, cuffs and pocket tops to have sufficient recovery
using elastomeric stretch if necessary.
LINKING AND MAKE UP
All knitwear seams to be linked or cup seamed, not overlocked

unless the knit direction is vertical due to styling requirement. 4
thread overlocked seams should be used in this case.
Linking or cup seaming tension must be correctly set and
consistent to avoid puckering, missed stitches or bursting during
wear.
Cupseaming should be done from cuff to armhole and then welt
to armhole crossing over at the armhole to reinforce the weak
point.
DTM spun poly cotton or polyester thread to be used (where
possible) for linking neck trims, empire seams and other seams
which require additional strength. Exception to this is where style
is garment dyed.
Linking or cup seaming yarn ends to be secured by bar tacks or
hand sewn, ends must be neatly pulled back and secure. Pay close
attention to presentation at back neck.
Seams to be linked ‘in wale’ – max no of wales allowed to be
crossed for 1.5gg – 7gg =1 wale. 10gg-14gg=2 wales.
Seams and ribs must not distort or step at cuff or welt edge.
Neck join to be 2cm from the shoulder seam towards the centre
of the back neck (LHSAW). On a raglan style the join is to be on
the left back raglan. On all 'V' necks join to be at the mitre (ensure
mitre is central, neatly stitched and vertical)
Stripes must be accurately matched at side seams and armhole.
37
POCKETS
Pocket bags must not be longer than the base of the garment and
may require securing to the garment at the corners.
BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES
See Childrenswear safety manual for attachment requirements.

Button holes to be lockstitched and have sufficient stitch cover to
avoid fraying. Knives to be changed regularly to ensure the
buttonhole is clean.
Ensure the button hole is the correct size for the button,
especially with shank domed buttons, where permitted.
BELTS AND BELT LOOPS
Retractable belt loops must be used at side seams unless the loop
is required to be wider than 0.5cm (Older girls age group)
38
COATS & JACKETS
CONTENTS
GENERAL
SEAMS AND HEMS
COLLARS
POCKET BAGS
SHOULDER PADS
LINING
PRESSING AND PRESENTATION
39
COATS & JACKETS
GENERAL
Double breasted styles - buttons MUST be correctly aligned

horizontally and have an underneath button to hold weight of
jacket and keep hem aligned.
Centre front edges and centre back vents MUST hang straight
unless the style is an asymmetric styling.
Centre front ‘under wrap’ edges and centre back vent under wrap
edges should not be visible below top edges at hemline
All centre front fastenings/features should be ‘centred’ within the
garment
All belt and cuff strap loops to have fusing.
Must ensure adequate button shank height to avoid ‘pinched’
appearance on fastened garments. (Refer to Childrenswear safety
manual for attachment specification of buttons)
SEAMS AND HEMS

grinning seams
All seams must be neatly back tacked at the start and finish.
Front facings should be felled into position at all times
COLLARS
Collar seams to be cleanly opened and bluff-stitched to underside

of collar to conceal seams.
excessive fullness and rolling.
POCKET BAGS
All pocket bags to be 5 thread overlock closed, lockstitched and

bound or bagged out.
40
ALL functional jackets, buttons should be whipped.

Buttons must be attached with lockstitch machine.
Buttonholes - to have appropriate stitch throw to secure the
fabric type and thickness, and cut edges to be clean in
appearance without long / uncut yarns
Buttonholes – some fabrics may require additional fusing of
buttonhole areas to ensure all yarns are fully secured by
buttonhole stitching.
Must use a cutting system i.e. ‘Crush-cut’ to ensure clean cutting
of all yarns
SHOULDER PADS
Shoulder pads must be compatible to shoulder shape.

Shoulder pads to be secured to garments at sleeve head, side
neck and base of armhole, front and back.
Front fusing must be compatible to the fabric to maintain the
correct handle and drape.
LININGS
Linings to be used and assessed within garment to ensure seams

and internals components are not visible through the lining
shade/quality.
Sleeve linings to be secured on the underarm from front pitch to

back pitch and shoulder to crown using anchor tapes.
All garments to have ‘closed’ linings at hemline, unless otherwise
agreed
Plackets & vents – linings must be fully secured at all ‘corners’ to
avoid risk of fabric breakdown.
41
Garments must not be over-pressed, creating a flat appearance,

without glazing, sharp creases or seam / hem impressions.
Lapels must be pressed with a light crease from the shoulder to
1/3rd the length of the lapel with soft roll to finish, unless
individual garments require otherwise.
Linings to be pressed flat without creases or puckered seams
Hem and cuff lining ‘curtain’ must be pressed in the correct
position, forming a sharp and parallel line to the bottom garment
edge, with MINIMUM curtain as required at all times. Minimum
curtain 1.5cm
Collars, pockets / flaps etc to have ‘bluffed’ seam edges i.e. not
visible.
Buttonholes must match button size and must not be frayed on
the inside.
42
FORMAL SUITS & JACKETS
CONTENTS
GENERAL
SEAMS AND HEMS
POCKET BAGS
LINING
43
FORMAL AND SUIT JACKETS
GENERAL
Centre front ‘under wrap’ edges and centre back vent under wrap
edges should not be visible below top edges at hemline
Fabric and lining edges liable to excessive fraying must have
overlocked edges
ALL belt and cuff strap loops to have fusing or agreed product to
prevent fraying of edges.
SEAMS AND HEMS

grinning seams
All seams must be neatly back tacked at the start and finish.
Front facings should be felled into position at all times
COLLARS
Collar seams to be cleanly opened and bluff-stitched to underside

of collar to conceal seams.
excessive fullness.
Unsymmetrical/swinging collars are unacceptable.
POCKET BAGS
All pocket bags to be 5 thread overlock closed, lockstitched and

where requested bound or bagged out.
ALL COAT buttons to be ‘Ascolite whipped’ (except jigger
44
buttons).
ALL functional jacket buttons to be “Ascolite whipped”.
Buttonholes - to have appropriate stitch throw to secure the fabric
type and thickness, and edges to be clean in appearance without
long / uncut yarns
Buttonholes – some fabrics may require additional fusing of
buttonhole areas to ensure all yarns are fully secured by
buttonhole stitching.
Must use a cutting system i.e. ‘crush-cut’ to ensure clean cutting
of all yarns.
SHOULDER PADS
Shoulder pads must be compatible to should shape.

Shoulder pads to be secured to garments at sleeve head, side
neck and base of armhole, front and back.
Front fusing must be compatible to the fabric to maintain the
correct handle and drape.
LININGS
Linings to be used and assessed within garment to ensure seams

and internals components are not visible through the lining
shade/quality.
Pleats in centre back –
o Without vents, will be from collar to hem
o With vents the pleats will finish square at the top of the
vent.
Body linings must have adequate width at hip and hem areas to
avoid body tightness or distortion on the body.
Sleeve linings should be wider than outer shell to avoid tightness
is wear.
Sleeve lining patterns to have base of armhole raised 1.5cm above
garment to enable movement on body.
All garments to have ‘closed’ linings at hemline, unless otherwise
agreed.
Plackets and vents – linings must be fully secured at all ‘corners’
to avoid risk of fabric breakdown.
45
Garments must not be over-pressed, creating a flat appearance,

without glazing, sharp creases or seam / hem impressions.
Lapels must be pressed with light crease from shoulder to 1/3rd
the length of the lapel with soft roll to finish, unless individuals
garments require otherwise.
Linings to be pressed flat without creases or puckered seams.
Hem and cuff lining ‘curtain’ must be pressed in the correct
position, forming a sharp and parallel line to the bottom garment
edge, with MINIMUM curtain as required at all times.
Collars, pockets / flaps etc to have ‘bluffed’ edges i.e. not visible.
Buttonholes must match and must not be frayed on the inside.
Unsymmetrical lapels are not acceptable.
FUSING
Both front panels, shoulders, collar, and back neck must be fused
with adequate canvas.
It is ideal to fuse side panels & back panels with non woven
fusing.
46
NON WOVEN SWIMWEAR
CONTENTS
GENERAL
WAISTBAND / LEGS
SIDESEAMS
GUSSET / LINES
ELASTIC
47
NON WOVEN SWIMWEAR
GENERAL
Backlatch seam ends to be secured without stitch grinning,

maximum thread ends 3mm.
WAISTBAND / LEGS
All stitching must be compatible with the stretch of fabrics and

elastics.
Minimum extended measurements must be easily achieved to
approved size chart.
Elastic joins to be ‘Butt’ joins to be applied to departmental
standard whenever possible, ensuring top and bottom elastanes
are fully secured.
Twin needle coverseaming to have ‘fringe’ at all times (minimum
1mm, maximum 2mm).
ALL elastics (knitted) must be anti-run back.
SIDESEAMS
Angled seam ends or those prone to stepping to be secured flat.

Seaming to commence at leg edges on BOTH sides.
GUSSETS / LINES – ALL GUSSET EDGES TO BE FLAT
Traditional – liner; flat seaming to be applied with reverse stitch

on right side of garment; all seams to be flat, not twisted.
Trimmed leg – 100% cotton liner; front gusset seams to be
stitched flat or fully concealed.
48
ELASTICS
Modulus and extension to be within departmental guidelines.

Elastanes using rubber or polyester glycols are NOT acceptable.
All knitted elastics to be anti-run back.
49
WOVEN SWIMWEAR
CONTENTS
GENERAL
WAISTBAND / LEGS
VENTS AND SPLITS
POCKETS
SIDESEAMS
ELASTIC
LABELS
50
WOVEN SWIMWEAR
GENERAL
All twin needle top stitching must be even and neat

All bar tacking must be inline with top stitching and must not over
run
All elastics (knitted) must be anti-run back.
All metal eyelets must be attached using the correct setting
Needle damage, snagging or uncut yarns in button holes are
unacceptable
All stitching must be compatible with the fabrics.
WAISTBAND CONSTRUCTION
Full and Part Elastication

To be attached through a folder
Elastic to be continuous through the complete band and MUST
be fully enclosed
Chain stitch must be securely locked off
Elastic must be evenly gathered.
HEM
Hem seam top stitching start and finishing to be at the inside leg
point
Double Turned
To be flat without roping or pucker
51
VENTS AND SPLITS
Side vents to be boxed out prior to seam closure, double turned

and lock stitched. Over locked edge finish on vents is not
acceptable.
POCKETS
All pocket edges to be bar tacked.
SIDESEAMS
Inside of the seams to be over locked and top stitched down

(depending on style details)
ELASTICS
Modulus and extension to be within standard guidelines.
52
LINGERIE
REFER TO WOMENSWEAR LINGERIE CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES.
53
NIGHTWEAR
FOLLOW AS JERSEY AND WOVEN PRODUCT TYPE.
54

Kidswear Construction Guidelines Jan 09

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Kidswear Construction Guidelines Jan 09

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CONFIDENTIAL

Version 1: February 2009

GARMENT CONTRUCTION STANDARDS

The quality of our merchandise is the backbone of our Childrenswear

It is essential for the continued development of our joint businesses

No garments should be presented to Marks & Spencer that do not

This is a working document, which will continue to evolve as new

MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATION CHART 5-9

IMPORTANT CONSTRUCTION INFORMATION 10

SEWING THREADS 12-14

GUIDELINES BY PRODUCT TYPE:

Following area a list of documents that have been referred to in this

 Product Safety Audit for Inline testing

 Kidswear Safety Manual

 Care Label positioning

 Performance standards for clothing components

 Environmental Code of Practice

 Elusive Yellowing Guidelines

 Best Practice for Bias Cutting

 Pre-Production Risk Assessment

 DHA (Design Hazard assessment)

 Dress-up construction guidelines

Minimum Min. Stitches

MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATION

Minimum Min. Stitches

Felling Securing of facings, cuff and 5mm Normal – 8

Lockstitch Secure/flatten seam ends Depends on 42

Minimum Stitches per

Lockstitch Attach trims N/A 12 – 14

For Buttonsew/Buttonhole see separate business spec

3 Thread Edge neatening 5mm 16*

4 Thread Shoulder seams 6mm 16*

Chainstitch** Attach bindings N/A 16

Chainstitch must be single needle double lock chainstitch to avoid runback.

Twin Needle Body hem 3.2mm 16*

3 Needle Decorative top stitching 3.2mm 16*

MINIMUM Stitches per

Lockstitch * Shoulder seams. Side seams. 1cm 10 – 12

Lockstitch Button Attaching 2 or 4 hole buttons and Dependent on 18 + 3 tying

COATS : Buttons should be whipped using

stitch type Application minimum stitches per

Single Needle Badge or motif attach n/a 16-18

 NB: These are minimum standards. Increased stitch may be

Check & Stripe Matching

Thread Type Definition Benefits Concerns

Core Spun A sewing thread Excellent on Viewed as more costly

 All threads must be bought from an approved supplier.

WAISTBANDS – FULL AND PART ELASTICATED

TABLE OF MINIMUM CONSTRUCTIN SPECIFICATION

SEAMS ON DENIM BOTTOMS

 To be attached through a folder where possible.

Zip – when using, refer to Childrenswear safety manual.

Mock Fly (Zip not permitted on under 5yr on boyswear)

 All functional pockets should be reinforced with bar tack.

Half & Fully Lined Trousers

 Back vent facings to be 5.0cm wide

NB The minimum hem circumference will depend on the fabric.

 Strap ends must be overlocked and lock stitched to secure.

 Use of single needle chainstitch must be double lock construction

Cover Seam and Flat Lock

 All functional pockets should be reinforced with bar tack.

DARTS AND TUCKS

VENTS AND SPLITS

BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLES

Product Safety Audit for Inline testing

Kidswear Safety Manual

Care Label positioning

Performance standards for clothing components

Environmental Code of Practice

Elusive Yellowing Guidelines

Best Practice for Bias Cutting

Pre-Production Risk Assessment

DHA (Design Hazard assessment)

Dress-up construction guidelines

NB: These are minimum standards. Increased stitch may be

All threads must be bought from an approved supplier.

To be attached through a folder where possible.

All functional pockets should be reinforced with bar tack.

Back vent facings to be 5.0cm wide

Strap ends must be overlocked and lock stitched to secure.

Use of single needle chainstitch must be double lock construction

All functional pockets should be reinforced with bar tack.

High seam slippage fabric where necessary must be wearer

All seams must not have any joins in the stitching.

Dart ends must be tapered to ensure a flat appearance without

Collars must be consistent in all dimensions, left to right side.

ALL cuff vents to be pre-neatened using Merrow/hanky edge

Side vents to be boxed out prior to seam closure, double turned

On functional pockets, top edges corners must be either bar

Adjusters must be nickel free, dyed to match, and coated metal

Stitching repairs are NOT ACCEPTABLE in any areas of binding.

Use of single needle chainstitch must be double lock construction

Neckband joins to be set back 1cm from shoulder to back of

Preferred vent construction; side vents to be boxed out prior to

On functional pocket, top edges of corners must be either bar

See Woven tops and bottoms

See Knitted tops and bottoms.

All knots to be pulled to the selvedge. All yarn to be spliced. Multi

All knitwear seams to be linked or cup seamed, not overlocked

See Childrenswear safety manual for attachment requirements.

Double breasted styles - buttons MUST be correctly aligned

Tension must be correctly set to eliminate pucker and prevent

Collar seams to be cleanly opened and bluff-stitched to underside

All pocket bags to be 5 thread overlock closed, lockstitched and

ALL functional jackets, buttons should be whipped.

Shoulder pads must be compatible to shoulder shape.

Linings to be used and assessed within garment to ensure seams

Sleeve linings to be secured on the underarm from front pitch to

Garments must not be over-pressed, creating a flat appearance,

Tension must be correctly set to eliminate pucker and prevent

Collar seams to be cleanly opened and bluff-stitched to underside

All pocket bags to be 5 thread overlock closed, lockstitched and

ALL COAT buttons to be ‘Ascolite whipped’ (except jigger

Shoulder pads must be compatible to should shape.

Linings to be used and assessed within garment to ensure seams

Garments must not be over-pressed, creating a flat appearance,

Backlatch seam ends to be secured without stitch grinning,

All stitching must be compatible with the stretch of fabrics and

Angled seam ends or those prone to stepping to be secured flat.

Traditional – liner; flat seaming to be applied with reverse stitch

Modulus and extension to be within departmental guidelines.

All twin needle top stitching must be even and neat

Side vents to be boxed out prior to seam closure, double turned

All pocket edges to be bar tacked.

Inside of the seams to be over locked and top stitched down

Modulus and extension to be within standard guidelines.