BEST PRACTICE GUIDELINES FOR THE TESTING AND ATTACHMENT

OF BEADS, SEQUINS, JEWELS & DIAMANTÉS.

These guidelines apply to all hand and machine-applied beads, sequins, jewels and
diamantes.

Any proposed changes from these best practice guidelines should be discussed and
agreed with the departmental technologist at the 1st fit stage, prior to contract
sealing individual styles.

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

• All beads, sequins, jewels and diamantes must meet the specification as laid
down in the M&S Environmental Code of Practice except the use of PVC which
is detailed in the next point. All items used must be tested individually.

• Marks and Spencer does not require the phasing out of PVC sequins, as
previously stated in the best practice guidelines, until further notice.

• If the guidelines are followed, it should only be necessary to provide the

customer with spare items on highly embellished garments, where the sequins
are hand stitched on to the garment. Spares will not be required where the
sequins are machine stitched. Spares should be placed in a small plastic bag*
and swift-tacked to the care label or jiffy tag. Where several types or colours of
items are used, spares of each must be supplied.

*For Limited Collection and Autograph, the plastic bag is inserted into the
button envelope.

• Glass beads may be used, with the agreement of the technologist. All
items should be checked for sharp edges or burrs. If found, such items
must not be used as the sewing threads can be severed and cause
product failure.

TESTING REQUIREMENTS

Washed Garments
The following predictive tests are required for all machine and hand-attached
items.

• Colour fastness to washing and 5 Progressive Label Washes. See suggested test
method below.
• 5 progressive label wash test can be carried out either in panel or garment form.
This will be agreed by the departmental technologist at the buying stage. The
test results will require submitting at first fit stage for approval.

Testing Procedure

The following method is not listed in the Marks and Spencer Performance
Standards, but sufficiently enables both colour fastness, colour transfer, lustre and
durability to be assessed in one test.

i. Attach 12 items to plain white fabric, the same composition as the proposed
garment fabric, using the method proposed for bulk production – unless
otherwise agreed by the departmental technologist.
ii. Carry out standard Label Wash according to the proposed care label.
iii. After testing, compare the colour, appearance, lustre and durability of the
items with untested samples. Record results onto test sheet.
iv. Carry out the above test 5 times assessing the colour, appearance, lustre,
transfer and durability after every wash.
v. When assessing glass beads after wash the internal appearance must be
checked to ensure the glass have not shattered/broken internally or chipped.

Dry Cleaned Garments

If the care label states that the garment may be dry cleaned (in addition to
washing), an embellished garment should be put through one dry clean cycle at a
commercial dry cleaners. Colour fastness, lustre and durability of the items should
be assessed against untested samples.

Experience has shown that the dry cleaning process may strip the colour out of
some sequins, and may damage or break certain types of bead or sequin. On
garments that are unlikely to be dry cleaned by the customer (i.e. T shirts), the
technologist may agree to use a care label carrying the ‘do not dry clean’ symbol.

• If the care label states ‘Dry clean only’, the garment should be put through 3 dry
clean cycles at a commercial dry cleaners. Colour fastness, lustre and durability
of the items should be assessed against untested samples.

• If the care label states ‘hand wash only’ then the test is carried out for 5 hand
washes.
Additional tests as agreed with the Department Technologist

• Wear trials (P49) should be carried out when using new types of attached items,
or where the method of attachment deviates from these guidelines. This
requirement should be agreed at the pre-production meeting.

• Additional label wash tests should be carried out periodically throughout

production to ensure consistency of colour fastness and durability of attached
items. Frequency of testing should be agreed with the departmental
technologist.

RECOMMENDED METHOD OF ATTACH FOR HAND-SEWN ITEMS

Sewing threads

• 2 ends of 120’s thread should be used. 100% core spun polyester thread is preferred.
All other thread composition must be discussed with the departmental technologist.

Stitch formation

• For application of single items, a double knot and back tack should be used
before and after the bead/sequin application. Pass the needle through the
bead/sequin 3 times.
• For application of a series of items, a double knot and single back-tack
should be used at the beginning and the end of each series. In addition,
thread must be single-knotted after attachment of every third item.

• Float length between items attached in a series should be a maximum of

1cm.

• Thread tail should be a minimum of 0.5cm and a maximum of 1cm.

• The method of attachment of hand applied items must be compatible with the
base fabric. E.g. On stretch fabrics, the method of attachment must allow
sufficient stretch without cracking the thread or distorting the design.

• If items are secured to the waist or neckline of a garment, the method of

attachment must allow sufficient stretch without cracking the thread or
distorting the design.
 RECOMMENDED METHOD OF ATTACH FOR HAND-SEWN ITEMS USING
LATCH NEEDLES ON A FRAME

Sewing threads

• 2 ends of 120’s thread should be used. 100% core spun polyester thread is preferred.
All other thread composition must be discussed with the departmental technologist.

Stitch formation

• A double knot and single back-tack should be used at the beginning and the
end of each series. In addition, there must be a double stitch every latch needle
length of beads.

• This specification must be agreed by the departmental technologist, and will be

dependent on the size and number of beads or sequins being used.

Sequins

• Where the embellishment carries a large number of sequins, garments must be

washed after sequin attach to remove excess sequins from the surface of the
fabric.

• After washing, the garment should be ‘brushed’ with the hand to expose any
areas of damage to sequins, which may require repair.

RECOMMENDED METHOD OF ATTACH FOR MACHINE-APPLIED ITEMS

Sewing threads

• 2 ends of 120’s thread should be used. 100% core spun polyester thread is preferred.
All other thread composition must be discussed with the departmental technologist.

• Soft monofilament threads are only acceptable when the back of the
embellished area is covered with a fusible lining. Wear trials must demonstrate
that there is no discomfort or irritation.