Textile Effects

Achieving new heights

Dependable discontinuous wet treatment of viscose and its blends

Textile Competence: Processing

 Contents

We provide Integrated Textile Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Exhaust processing of viscose fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Wet processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Processing routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Processing stages—pretreatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Product range recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Process recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Processing stages—dyeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Product range recommendations dyeing auxiliaries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Dye ranges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Dyeing process recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

NOVACRON® LS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

NOVACRON® H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

NOVACRON® FN/ W/S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Polyester/viscose/elastane blends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Processing stages—finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Product range recommendations softeners, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Process recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

2
We convince with Textile Competence

Worldwide leader in textile effects with over 150 years experience,

Huntsman Textile Effects has a complete line of textile dyes and chemicals

for fabric processing and finishing—from sizing, through pretreatment,

dyeing and printing right to finishing.

Huntsman has the products and concepts to implement the total optimum

solution for your processes and to meet the performance requirements of

the fabric.

An innovative company that can provide the

total optimum solution for all wet processes
and fabrics increases your chance of success.
To achieve this, it is necessary to understand
and control the complex interactions between
dyes, chemicals, and textile and processing
machinery.

Our products and experience of the whole wet

processing field can help you to reduce your
costs by minimizing problems, and help you to
deliver fabrics with consistent performance to
your customers.

We can help you to deliver quickly to the mar-

ket the innovative textile effects that consumers
demand.

We can help you time after time to deliver con-

sistent fabric performance that meets your cus-
tomers performance requirements.

We offer the most complete range of

textile dyes and chemicals in the market.

3
 Exhaust processing of viscose fabrics
Introduction
This guide summarizes Huntsman’s recommen-
dations for the wet processing of fabrics either
knitted or woven from fibers known collectively
by the generic name “viscose”. It covers both
the products and the methods currently recom-
mended and is intended to provide dyers and
finishers in particular with the help they need to
find the application routines and products that
Characteristics
Different ratio of crystalline & amorphous
regions
Skin and core cross section
Differences in the relationship between skin
and core; different types of viscose
Unlike cotton, all regenerated cellulosic fibers
lose part of their tensile strength in water, i.e.
in the swollen state
Swelling of viscose fibers increases as the
temperature of the bath rises
Viscose may contain sulfur residues
In wet-rope treatment there is a high risk of
rope marks due to fiber stiffening
Viscose fabrics tend to form folds and
creases during heat processing
Higher substantivity and faster fixation are
the main causes of unlevelness
4
will ensure compliance with the various end-
product requirements, taking into account this
fiber’s special properties.
Like cotton, viscose fibers are composed
of cellulose. How does viscose differ from
cotton, and what does this mean for the
dyer?
Consequences
• higher affinity
• inferior diffusion and penetration
• an appropriate supply of kinetic energy is
needed to enable the dyes to penetrate
thoroughly into the fiber
• “hot” dyes preferred
> NOVACRON® LS or H
• have a direct impact on fiber properties
and influence behavior during processing
• more sensitive in wet treatment
• have a direct impact on fiber properties
and influence behavior during processing
• a peroxide bleach might be
recommended to remove it
• liquor temperature should not be
below 50 °C/122 °F
• a suitable lubricant must be used
> 3 g/l ALBAFLUID CD
• baths must be cooled at a maximum
rate of 1°C/min (34 °F/min)
• migration temperature can be increased
to max. 110 °C/230 °F if necessary
• salt addition subsequent to the dyes
 1 2 3 4 5 6

1 Corks coated with viscose

2 Skein of viscose silk made by Courtaulds in 1907
3 Early solid viscose sample
4 The new Cellophane wrapping for cigarettes
5 1920s Courtaulds advertisement
6 Sponge made from viscose

Viscose and its history

Since its introduction almost a century ago, vis-
cose has come a long way and experienced
many ups and downs. In the sixties the image of
viscose had probably dropped to an all-time
low, with the fiber being regarded purely as a
cheap substitute for cotton and the word vis-
cose virtually as a synonym for the past. At that
time there were probably not many people
around who would have believed that viscose
would show such a strong revival as we have
experienced since the middle of the eighties.
Who would have estimated that viscose for use
in the high fashion end of the market would
become a rare item and even be the subject of
supply problems?
A natural polymer made from wood pulp, vis-
cose was first patented by Cross, Bevan &
Beadle in Britain in 1892. The word viscose
is believed to have been used by Cross to
describe the product, although in the US the
word rayon was adopted in the 1920s.
Viscose was first used for coating fabrics, which
it did quite successfully. However, when Cross
and his partners tried to make solid objects like
umbrella handles they were found to be much
too brittle.
Further development led to viscose being spun
into thread for embroidery and trimmings.
Eventually, after Samuel Courtauld & Co. had
taken over in 1904, viscose manufacture be-
came big business. By the twenties and thirties
it had almost completely replaced the traditional
cotton and wool for women’s stockings and
underwear. Similar changes occurred in the US
and in Europe, too.

5
 Viscose was also being used for linings and fur- set up in the USA and in 1935 British
nishing fabrics, for towels and table-cloths, for Cellophane Ltd. was established.
high-tenacity yarn for tires, and for other items,
Developments by the fiber producers (resulting
including sponges and absorbent cloths. Cross
in the release of high wet modulus and poly-
had tried making viscose
nosic types) as well as progress in spinning and
film in the 1890s, but it
weaving techniques, combined with a strong
was in Switzerland
market demand for soft, draping fabrics with a
and France that
silky appearance and very typical handle, made
major successes
viscose a very sought-after fiber, in particular for
were achieved. In
pretreatment, dyeing and finishing.
1913 C.T.A. estab-
lished La Cello-
phane SA. Ten years
Definition
The term viscose was originally used to denote
later DuPont Cello-
the substance obtained by dissolving cellulose
phane Co. was
xanthate in a solution of caustic soda. The
regenerated fiber was called viscose rayon.
Current terminology refers to viscose fibers
rather than viscose rayon. Throughout this sum-
mary the term viscose refers exclusively to fibers
produced via the formation of xanthate. The
once competitive cupro-ammonium rayon has
lost its position and is of hardly any importance
nowadays.

The more recent modifications to the viscose

process, which have resulted in fibers with
improved physical properties, have led to the
introduction of other generic names, such as
high-tenacity polynosic, modal and high wet
modulus fibers.

Regular viscose
After initial skin formation, the core of the fiber
decomposes, hardens and shrinks. Viscose
fibers are therefore characterized by an irregular,
serrated skin and cross section. The skin is said
to consist of many small crystalline regions. The
core on the other hand develops a coarser crys-
talline structure. Differences in the ratio of skin to
core will therefore have a direct impact on the
fiber properties and influence behavior during
processing. Regular viscose consists of
25–30 % crystalline areas within the whole
fiber.

6
Spinning conditions/process can be suitably
modified to produce fibers with a higher degree
of orientation and crystallinity. Such fibers show
improved physical properties and make vis-
cose — on the one hand — a close competitor of
cotton in terms of fiber strength. On the other
hand, unlike cotton, all regenerated cellulosic
fibers lose part of their tensile strength in water,
i.e. in the swollen state.
High-tenacity viscose fibers
Tenacity is the strength of a single fiber meas-
ured as the force per unit linear density neces-
sary to break a known unit of that fiber. It is usu-
ally expressed in grams per denier or grams per
tex. Any increase in the proportion of the crys-
talline regions in the fiber improves its strength.
Stretching during the spinning process has the
effect of aligning more long-chain molecules in a
direction parallel with the longitudinal axis of the
filament, increasing the scope for a crystalline
lattice to form. A patent granted in 1926 gives
the first description of such a process. Very
high-tenacity fibers showing a very high degree
of orientation require high amounts of dye for
coloration (reports state up to four times more).
These fibers are mainly used in industrial applica-
tions requiring little or no coloration at all. A typi-
cal end-use for this type of viscose is tire cord.
Fiber properties
Above the molecular level, cellulose and other
fibrous polymers all contain long-chain polymer
molecules lying more or less parallel to the axis
of the fiber. With man-made fibers, such as vis-
cose, depending on the physical and chemical
conditions immediately after extrusion and the
chemical nature of the monomer and linking
groups, some of the polymer molecules will lie
so close to one another and in such an orderly
manner that crystallization will take place. In nat-
ural celluloses this takes place during fiber
growth.
The ordered regions are known as crystalline
and the disordered as amorphous. It is the
simultaneous presence of both types of regions
that gives fibers their unique chemical and phys-
ical properties, and thus their unique and most-
ly different affinity/dyeability.

Crystallinity Crystallinity Orientation Cluster Cluster Cluster Crystallite

in fiber direction factor fraction diameter length length
(%) (%) fcr(%) fam(%) (nm) (nm) (nm)

Lyocell 59 90 67 73 0.28 36.5 289 21.3

Modal 38 55 52 42 0.87 39.4 184 16.1

Viscose 33 60–70 36 – 0.83 49 150 16.1

Polynosic 48 – 54 – 0.76 35.9 188 –

Like cotton, viscose fibers lack thermo-plastici-

ty. Viscose fibers are resistant to the tempera-
tures applied during the pretreatment, dyeing
and finishing processes.

Primary softeners of the fibers are not heat-sta-

ble and tend to cause yellowing when exposed
to prolonged reaction periods exceeding
100 °C/212 °F.
7
 Wet processing
Swelling of viscose fibers increases as the tem-
perature of the bath rises. This is of prime
importance in package processes, such as
beam dyeing. To prevent unlevelness or Moiré
effects, the material must not be wound too
tightly. In their swollen state, regenerated cellu-
lose fibers are moldable to a certain extent, a
phenomenon that is sometimes referred to as
hydro-plasticity. In the finishing stage this
becomes noticeable for example when pad- or
jig-dyed fabrics reveal surfaces that are flat and
smooth to the handle. On yarn-dyed materials
the same effect becomes noticeable—in the
increased differential pressure—when the bath
direction is changed to outside/inside.
As viscose is characterized by an irregular, ser-
rated skin and cross section, dye diffusion is
crucial to dyeing speed. For this reason an
appropriate supply of kinetic energy is needed
to enable the dyes to penetrate thoroughly into
the fiber—swollen to its maximum by heat.
8
Therefore, mainly hot-dyeing reactive ranges are
recommended, such as NOVACRON® LS and
NOVACRON® H. The migration method, recom-
mended for NOVACRON FN dyes (80/60 °C—
176/140 °F), will improve diffusion as well, but
there is no further improvement of diffusion dur-
ing the fixation step at 60 °C/140 °F—unlike with
the “hot” dyes.
Pretreatment
Viscose fibers are supplied in a pure state and
with a better base white than gray cotton.
Bleaching processes are, therefore, mainly
required only for completely white products
(reduced quantities of chemicals) or pastel
shades. However, as viscose can contain sulfur
residues, a peroxide bleach might be recom-
mended to remove them.
Viscose fabrics blended with elastane can con-
tain silicone oils. To prevent these from re-dep-
osition, the fabrics must be carefully rinsed after
pretreatment. This can be done with a high tem-
perature rinsing bath, for example preferably
overflow or intermittent.
While they tend to be unaffected by the
usual chemical concentrations, viscose
fibers react rapidly and strongly on contact
with alkali. Viscose fibers can be activated by a
lye concentration of 4 % (6 °Bé), resulting in con-
siderably higher dye absorption.
A concentration of 4.5 % NaOH (7 °Bé) is gen-
erally the upper limit for viscose fibers. Prior to
any dry heat treatment, the fibers must be free
of alkali residues.
Processing routes

Typical blend
ratios are:

Outer garments
2–8 % elastane

In wet-rope treatment there is a high risk of rope marks. This is due to the
tendency of viscose to stiffen in an aqueous medium. Therefore it is high-
ly advisable to circulate the fabric in the machine at a temperature not
below 50 °C/122 °F, including during loading. This applies to the whole
process, including pretreatment and washing off. Care must also be
taken to ensure that fabric speed is not too high, but turnover time must
be adequate to give high levelness. At high temperatures, such as in
bleaching, dyeing and soaping, a suitable lubricant must be used, such
as 3 g/l ALBAFLUID® CD.
Underwear
Viscose fabrics tend to form folds and creases during heat processing,
2–5 % elastane
especially during cooling. To prevent the development of such creases, it
is highly advisable to cool the baths with a gradient of not more than
1 °C/min (34 °F/min).

General information about viscose/elastane-

containing garments
The annual growth rate of elastane-containing garments is 8–12 %.
Cellulose-elastane blends are mainly used for outer garments,
T-shirts, leggings, underwear, ladies’ hosiery and medical stockings, and
sportswear. This growth has been achieved because there is strong
demand for comfort on the part of the consumers.

Elastane yarns consist of the stretchable core (elastane) covered by the

blending component (non-elastic fiber). Ladies’ hosiery
2–12 % elastane

9
 How elasticity works

soft segments

relaxed
hard segments

In the fiber’s naturally relaxed state, the soft chains lie in

tangled disorder.

stretched

Under tension, the chains straighten out…

relaxed again

…while always straining to draw back to their natural tangle.

The production of such garments is highly criti-

cal in ensuring the dimensional stability and
elasticity of the end article. The most crucial
process step is pretreatment. The goods are
treated in rope form or cut open for some
process steps, depending on machinery.

Typical exhaust processing routes for viscose/elastane

Full white Dyeing

Relaxation Relaxation

Heat setting Heat setting

Alkaline washing Alkaline washing or

peroxide bleach
Peroxide bleach/
whitening Dyeing

Finishing Finishing

10
 Processing stages—pretreatment

Product range recommendations

Huntsman provides a full range of products and optimized processes for pretreatment to ensure the
best and most reliable preparation for dyeing, printing and finishing.

Surfactants All-purpose wetting agents, low-foaming

INVADINE ® detergents, versatile cleaning agents,
ULTRAVON® and surfactants with outstanding wetting
power, strong emulsification and detergent
properties.

Cracking/complexing Removal of all kinds of fiber impurities, such

Iron binding power
with INVATEX without
agents
as alkaline earth and heavy metal ions, at
INVATEX® every process stage. Crystallization- and
precipitation-inhibiting properties.

Bleach processors Optimum bleach-regulating effect on active

CLARITE® oxygen for highest whiteness with anti-
catalytic action.

Fluorescent whitening Designed to achieve ultra-high whiteness.

agents (FWAs)
Suitable for all application processes.
UVITEX®

Enzymes Liquid catalase enzymes for instance

no residual peroxide 5 mg/l H2O2
in bath in bath
INVAZYME® eliminate residual peroxide after bleaching
and improve shade reproducibility without without

loss of color yield with dyes that are sensitive

to oxidizing agents. with
INVAZYME CAT

11
Process recommendations Alkaline washing
for elastane-containing fabrics To ensure satisfactory spinning, winding and drying, elastane fibers are
often treated with lubricants, such as silicone oils. Alkaline washing
removes lubricants and prevents spots and stains during dyeing, as well
Relaxation as the formation of fumes and yellowing of the goods during subsequent
Relaxation of greige knit goods relieves residual heat-setting.
stresses caused by tension of the elastane yarn
during knitting. These stresses have a strong 2.0–4.0 ml/l ALBAFLUID CD
influence on the quality of the final article. 1.0–3.0 ml/l INVADINE DA or ULTRAVON EL
0.5–2.0 ml/l INVATEX SA
Treatment in hot water with selected 1.0–3.0 g/l soda ash (about pH 9)
auxiliaries or on a steam table is recom-
mended. liquor ratio 20:1–10:1; treat for 20–30 min at 60–90 °C/140–194 °F
hot rinse
Heat-setting
Heat-setting is necessary to ensure dimensional
Peroxide bleach
stability (length and width) and resistance to
For full white articles, a peroxide bleach with fluorescent whitener can be
creasing. The problem to overcome is the
applied as follows:
baking of residual oils into the fiber and the dan-
ger of damaging and yellowing of the elastane 1.0–3.0 ml/l ALBAFLUID A
component. 2.0–4.0 ml/l CLARITE WIN
0.2–0.7 g/l NaOH 100 %
Typical heat-setting conditions are 30–60
2.0–6.0 ml/l H2O2 35%
sec at 180–195 °C/356–383 °F.
1.0–5.0 g/l Glauber’s salt, anhyd.
0.3–0.7 % UVITEX BHT LIQ or BHB LIQ or BHV LIQ 115 % or
Acid cracking 0.2–0.6 % UVITEX CF LIQ 200 %
If the goods are contaminated with iron, we
recommend the following preliminary treatment: liquor ratio 20:1–10:1; treat for 40 min at 85 °C/185 °F; hot rinse
neutralization/afterclearing with INVATEX AC

2.0–4.0 ml/l ALBAFLUID CD

1.0–2.0 ml/l INVADINE DA or ULTRAVON EL If dyeing is performed after bleaching (without FWA), we strongly recom-
0.5–2.0 ml/l INVATEX SA mend adding INVAZYME® CAT catalase enzyme to the same bath, after
neutralizing with INVATEX® AC, in order to prevent oxidative damage to
liquor ratio 20:1–10:1 dyes by residual peroxide.
treat for 20–30 min at 50–60 °C/122–140 °F
hot rinse 110 °C 230 °F

100 °C 212 °F

90 °C peroxide bleach 5–10 min 194 °F

at 60–80 °C
80 °C 176 °F

70 °C 158 °F

60 °C 10–15 min 140 °F

at 50–60 °C dyeing
50 °C 122 °F

40 °C 104 °F

30 °C 86 °F
drain drain

neutralize/afterclearing
12 with INVATEX AC
0.2–0.5 ml/l INVAZYME CAT
 Processing stages—dyeing

Product range recommendations dyeing auxiliaries

To achieve the best results, we recommend a package of selected dyeing auxiliaries and
NOVACRON® dyes.

Penetration accelerants For balanced de-aerating, wetting,

ALBAFLOW® foam-controlling and antifoam properties,

depending on the dyeing processes.

Acid buffer Ensures excellent reproducibility in dyeing of

Robustness of 2 g/l ALBATEX AB-55

100 % viscose with reactive dyes, thanks to Process water at 4.5 5.5 9.0
ALBATEX® different pH-values
buffer effect during exhaustion. Allows
adjustment of final pH of any textile to the
range required for Oeko-Tex 100.
Non-foaming.
Color difference 0.40 standard 0.43

Protective colloids The dyebath conditioners prevent pre- 1 g/l ALBATEX DS no auxiliary

ALBATEX® cipitation in the water and on the textile and

promotes levelness of the dyeing.

Leveling agents Ensures tone-in-tone build up during dyeing without 1.5 g/l ALBATEX LD

ALBATEX ® (see illustration).

Lubricants For reduced creasing, cracks and abrasion

ALBAFLUID ® marks with no retarding effect.Reduces
friction of fabric against fabric and fabric
against machine parts caused by structural
viscosity. No adverse effect on color yield.
Can be rinsed out of the fabric completely.

13
Reduction inhibitor/ No shade change of reduction-sensitive
oxidizing agent without
reactive dyes. Good reproducibility of dye LYOPRINT RG GR
LYOPRINT® batches with all equipment.

10 g/kg
LYOPRINT RG GR

Buffered liquid alkali Promotes levelness in shade build-up of dye

Improved on-tone build up
3.0 g/l 5.0 g/l
ALBATEX® combinations with different uptake, including ALBATEX soda ash
in short-liquor and rapid-dyeing processes. SA-200 0.75 ml/l
Ensures high reproducibility in production. caustic soda
36 °Bé
Facilitates handling: no broken bags, dust or
clogged pipes thanks to liquid form.
relative depth 100 % 98 %

Washing agent Prevents renewed uptake of dye hydro-lysate

Washing off of reactive dyes

ERIOPON® and de-activates water hardness ions,

ensuring maximum fastness properties. unfixed dyes

test fabric

no auxiliary 1 g/l ERIOPON R LIQ

Wet fastness Prevent migration after dyeing and protect no aftertreated aftertreated with ALBAFIX FRD
improvers
dye/fiber linkage of reactive dyes against
ALBAFIX® acid hydrolysis and thermocracking.

Reactive UV absorber Improves the UV screening properties of

UV-SUN® sun-protective clothing. High adsorption of
UVA and UVB radiation. High ultra-violet
protection is achieved on textiles with suit-
able constructions (label available).

Equipment Removes dye residues from dyeing equip- before after cleaning with INVALON FL
cleaning agent
ment and preparation tanks. Best cleaning
INVALON® properties when used with caustic soda and
hydrosulfite. Suitable for emulsifying spinning
or weaving lubricants in prewashing.

14
Dye ranges
NOVACRON® LS • NOVACRON® H • NOVACRON® F/FN • NOVACRON® W • NOVACRON® S
Viscose and its blends require a very depend-
able dyeing process. To achieve good dyeing
results, it is advisable always to use the migra-
tion methods suitable for the range and adapt-
ed to the dyeing machine (see examples below).
• Huntsman mainly recommends NOVACRON®
LS and NOVACRON® H dyes for Viscose and
its blends.
• If high fastness is required, however,
NOVACRON® FN dyes can be especially con-
sidered.
• For very deep shades NOVACRON® S dyes
are recommended.
Higher substantivity together with high fixation
rates are the main contributors to unlevelness in
dyeing viscose articles. These factors can be
counterbalanced by adjustments of the electrolyte
addition and/or the temperature during the
exhaustion phase and reduced alkali concentra-
tions at the beginning of the fixation phase. We
therefore recommend adding the salt after the
dyes.
ALBATEX® AB-55 can be added to adjust the
initial pH of the dyebath to slightly acid condi-
tions. About 0.7 g/l is required, depending on
the pH of the dyehouse water.
15
 Dyeing process recommendations

NOVACRON® LS

for standard fastness requirements
an increase of the migration temperature to up to 110°C/230 °F has
· outstanding reproducibility proven beneficial in terms of enhanced diffusion, migration and
· outstanding environmental benefits leveling-out on viscose fabrics
· fixation over 80 %
dyes, salt and alkali can either be automatically dispensed or added
· moderate to good washing-off in portions if no dispensing facility is available
properties
with critical fabrics or shades, the use of sodium bicarbonate is
recommended

Soda ash

NOVACRON® LS % < 0.5 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 > 2.5

Salt g/l 8 8 12 16 20 24 32

Soda ash g/l 8 8 8 9 10 11 12

Soda ash and sodium bicarbonate

NOVACRON® LS % < 0.5 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 > 2.5

Salt g/l 8 8 12 16 20 24 32

Sodium bicarbonate g/l 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

Soda ash g/l 8 8 8 9 10 11 12

°C °F

120 248

110 20–30’ 230

2 °C/min
100 212
30’
90 194
15’ 10’ 15–30’ 15’ 10’ 15–30’
80 176
dyes salt 10’ 40–60’ 30–40’ dyes salt 10’ 40–60’ 30–40’
70 158
soda ash soda ash
60 140
or or
50 122
bicarbonate soda ash bicarbonate soda ash
40 104
pH ~ 6–6.5 pH ~ 10.8 pH ~ 6–6.5 pH ~ 10.8
30 86
aux. dispensed or in portions aux. dispensed or in portions

16
 NOVACRON® H

for high wet and chlorine fastness
dyes, salt and alkali can either be dispensed automatically or added
requirements in portions if no dispensing facility is available
· very good washing-off properties
with critical fabrics or shades, the use of sodium bicarbonate is
· good reproducibility recommended
· fixation over 80 %
· substantial environmental benefits

Soda ash

NOVACRON® H % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 4 >4

Salt g/l 7 20 30 40 60 65

Soda ash g/l 7 8 10 11 14 14

Soda ash and sodium bicarbonate

NOVACRON® H % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 4 >4

Salt g/l 7 20 30 40 60 65

Sodium bicarbonate g/l 2 2 2 2 2 2

Soda ash g/l 7 8 10 11 14 14

°C °F

120 248

110 30’ 230

2 °C/min
100 212
30’
90 194
15’ 10’ 15–30’ 10’ 40–60’ 30–40’ 15’ 10’ 15–30’ 10’ 40–60’ 30–40’
80 176
dyes salt soda ash dyes salt soda ash
70 158
or or
60 140
bicarbonate soda ash bicarbonate soda ash
50 122

40 104
pH ~ 6–6.5 pH ~ 10.8 pH ~ 6–6.5 pH ~ 10.8
30 86
aux. dispensed or in portions aux. dispensed or in portions

17
 °C °F
NOVACRON® FN/W/S
120 248

for stringent fastness requirements 110 230
· outstanding washing-off properties 100 212
· very good reproducibility soda ash
90 194
15’ 10’ 15–30’ 30’ or
· fixation over 80 % 80 176
dyes salt bicarbonate soda ash
· substantial environmental benfefits 70 158
10’ 40–60’ 30–40’
60 140

dyes, salt and alkali can either be
50 122
dispensed or put in at portions if no
40 104
dispensing facility is available pH ~ 6–6.5 pH ~ 10.8
30 86

for unfavorable conditions, such as aux. dispensed or in portions

critical fabrics or shades, the use of

sodium bicarbonate is recommended

Soda ash—liquor ratio below 8:1

NOVACRON® % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 >5

Salt g/l 16 24 32 40 48 56 64

Soda ash g/l 8 10 11 13 14 16 16

Soda ash—liquor ratio 8:1 and above

NOVACRON® % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 >5

Salt g/l 24 32 40 48 64 72 80

Soda ash g/l 6 8 10 11 13 14 14

Soda ash and sodium bicarbonate—liquor ratio below 8:1

NOVACRON® % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 >5

Salt g/l 16 24 32 40 48 56 64

Sodium bicarbonate g/l 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

Soda ash g/l 8 10 11 13 14 16 16

Soda ash and sodium bicarbonate—liquor ratio 8:1 and above

NOVACRON® % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 >5

Salt g/l 24 32 40 48 64 72 80

Sodium bicarbonate g/l 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

Soda ash g/l 6 8 10 11 13 14 14

18
 Polyester/viscose/elastane blends

Disperse dyes readily stain elastane fibers and
just as readily bleed out, resulting in very poor
wet fastness.
Most elastane fibers are sensitive to tempera-
ture and are therefore dyed at 125 °C/257 °F or
below. Today, thermoheat-stable elastane
fibers, dyeable at 130 °C/266 °F, are available
on the market.
UNIVADINE® PB NEW diffusion accelerant
allows high-energy dyes to be applied on poly-
ester fibers at 125–130 °C/257–266 °F. Unlike to
conventional carriers, UNIVADINE® PB NEW has
almost no affects on elastane fiber properties.
TERASIL® W and TERASIL® WW new high-
energy disperse dyes, have outstanding wash
fastness at all temperatures.

Dyes that can be applied at temperatures below The system of TERASIL® W/® TERASIL® WW
125 °C/257 °F—mainly low-energy dyes — can- and UNIVADINE® PB NEW system ensures
not achieve navy, black and deep shades with good dyeing reproducibility at lower tempera-
good wet fastness. Nowadays low-energy dyes tures (see illustration) and enables outstanding
are scarcely used, due to their low fastness to wash fastness to be achieved on polyester/elas-
dry heat, which results in poor rubbing fastness tane blends.
and in cross-staining.
TERASIL® W and TERASIL® WW are alkaline-
PES microfiber clearable dyes that give excellent wash fastness
45 min at 125 °C/257 °F 15 min at 130 °C/266 °F on polyester, polyester microfiber and their
UNIVADINE PB NEW (g/l)
0 1.5 0 1.5
blends with cellulose fibers.
TERASIL TERASIL® W is a cost-effective range, giving
5.2 % Red WW-DS
good wash fastness results in ISO 105-C06
Bath exhaust
tests (40 °C/104 °F, 50 °C/122 °F and 60 °C/
30 min at 135 °C/275 °F
140 °F), while TERASIL® WW dyes give top wet
Conventional PES fastness on all substrates and in all tests, includ-
45 min at 125 °C/257 °F 15 min at 130 °C/266 °F ing AATCC 61, 2A, 49 °C/120 °F (the standard
UNIVADINE PB NEW (g/l)
test for the US market).
0 1.5 0 1.5
TERASIL Other TERASIL® dyes can be used if wash fast-
2.1% Red WW-DS
ness requirements are not too stringent.
Bath exhaust
30 min at 135 °C/275 °F Here, the LS Superfast dyeing method can be
used—in conjunction with NOVACRON® LS
PES microfiber dyes or HT all-in method—in conjunction with
45 min at 125 °C/257 °F 15 min at 130 °C/266 °F
UNIVADINE PB NEW (g/l) SOLOPHENYL® dyes.
0 1.5 0 1.5
TERASIL
2.7 % Blue WW-2GS

Bath exhaust
30 min at 135 °C/275 °F
For further information, including aspects on elastane and
processing polyester/elastane blends, see brochure
Conventional PES “Polyester/elastane blends—how to achieve optimum wash
45 min at 125 °C/257 °F 15 min at 130 °C/266 °F fastness at 60 °C/140 °F with TERASIL® W disperse dyes”.
UNIVADINE PB NEW (g/l) For further information on polyester/cellulose processing, see
0 1.5 0 1.5 CIN brochures LS Superfast and TERASIL®/SOLOPHENYL®.
TERASIL
1.1% Blue WW-2GS

Bath exhaust
30 min at 135 °C/275 °F
19
 Processing stages—finishing

Product range recommendations softeners, etc.

Huntsman has the know-how and the complete product range for achieving the desired handle,
comfort, performance and appearance on the final end article.

Different softeners can be used, depending on Depending on type, softening agents influence
the requirements of the specific end article. to a lesser or greater extent
Handle varies between soft, elegant, surface
smooth, cool, warm, luxurious, drapy, bulky, • sewability
crispy, etc., and thus the softening agent has to • whiteness
be chosen accordingly. • thermomigration in the case of
polyester-blends
In addition to modifying handle, softening • strength properties
agents have a strong influence on the perform- • seam resistance
ance properties of the end article, which again • pilling tendency
makes careful selection very important. • absorbency
• abrasion resistance

High mechanical stability and low foaming are

crucial factors in the selection of the correct sof-
tener. Care must be taken to ensure that the
textile can endure high mechanical action in jets.

20
Softeners Complete range of different softeners.
ULTRATEX ® Selection depends on handle and perform-
MEGASOFT® ance required of the end product, and on
DICRYLAN® application process (exhaustion or padding).
SAPAMINE®
TURPEX®

Moisture Moisture management finishes in combina-

management agents
tion with a soft handle help to transport
ULTRAPHIL® garment skin
water vapor from the body, making the
wearer feel cool and comfortable.
moisture

Antipilling/antisnag- Improve performance and maintain appear-

ging/antislipping
ance of the fabric, thus prolonging its life.
DICRYLAN®
FORNAX®

Sewability improver Increased dependability during garment

SAPAMINE ® construction as well as reduced risk of hole
ULTRATEX® formation and needle damage to fabric.
MEGASOFT®
TURPEX®

Crosslinking agents Durable crease-resistance and easy-care

KNITTEX ® finishes on cellulose fabrics and their blends,
in accordance with the latest environmental
standards.

21
Process recommendations
The finishing products are applied either by
exhaustion or padding. Huntsman can provide
the right products for both processes.

Process conditions for softening in the

exhaustion process:
Usually only softeners are applied here. The
amount of softener varies from 1–5 % depend-
ing on the requirements. Softeners are applied
in a separate bath in a slightly acid medium.

Typical recipes for viscose/elastane

1–3 % ULTRAPHIL HCT

Time 15–20 min

Temperature 30– 40 °C/86–104 °F
Liquor ratio 3:1–20:1
pH 4.5–5.5

The water is extracted without subsequent

rinsing and the fabric dried at 110–130 °C/
230–266 °F.

In continuous processes, the products are usu- Process conditions for moisture manage-
ally applied on a pad mangle and the goods ment in combination with easy care finish-
subsequently dried on the stenter. If cross-link- es, soft handle, good sewability and high
able products, such as resins or polymers are burst strength in the continuous process:
used, a curing process is required.
In full whitening, UVITEX® RSB LIQ 150 % or Typical recipes for viscose/elastane
MST LIQ or BFA LIQ can be applied simultane- 70–100 g/l KNITTEX FEL
ously in a continuous finishing process. 21– 30 g/l KNITTEX CATALYST MO
20– 60 g/l ULTRATEX FMW
0.5 ml/l acetic acid 60 %

Padding with pick-up 80–100 %

Drying and curing on the stenter:

Zone 1 approx. 110 °C/230 °F
Zone 2 approx. 130 °C/266 °F
Zone 3, etc. 150–180 °C/302–356 °F

Total treatment time 40–70 sec

22
23
 Region Europe
Huntsman Textile Effects (Germany) GmbH
Rehlinger Straße 1
86462 Langweid a. Lech, Germany
Telephone +49 8230 41-0
Fax +49 8230 41-370
infotexeurope@huntsman.com

Region Americas
Huntsman International LLC
Textile Effects
4050 Premier Drive
High Point, NC 27265, USA
Telephone +1 800 822 1736
Fax +1 336 801 2808
infotexamericas@huntsman.com

Region Asia
Huntsman (Guangdong) Ltd.
Textile Effects
Flying Geese Mountain Industrial Park
Shilou Town, Panyu District, Guangzhou
511447, PR China
Telephone +86 20 8484 5100
Fax +86 20 8484 5222
infotexasia@huntsman.com

Edition 2007
Copyright © 2007 Huntsman. All rights reserved.
All trademarks mentioned are registered trademarks of Huntsman Corporation
or an affiliate thereof in one or more, but not all countries.

IMPORTANT: The following supersedes Buyer’s documents. Sales of the

product described herein (“Product”) are subject to the general terms and con-
ditions of sale of either Huntsman Advanced Materials LLC, or its appropriate
affiliate. Huntsman warrants that at the time and place of delivery all Products
sold to Buyer shall conform to the specifications provided to Buyer by
Huntsman.

While the information and recommendations included in this publication are,

to the best of Huntsman’s knowledge, accurate as of the date of publication,
NOTHING CONTAINED HEREIN (EXCEPT AS SET FORTH ABOVE REGARDING
CONFORMANCE WITH SPECIFICATIONS PROVIDED TO BUYER BY HUNTSMAN)
IS TO BE CONSTRUED AS A REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY OF ANY KIND,
EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO ANY WARRANTY OF
MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, NONIN-
FRINGEMENT OF ANY INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS, OR WARRANTIES
AS TO QUALITY OR CORRESPONDENCE WITH PRIOR DESCRIPTION OR
SAMPLE, AND THE BUYER ASSUMES ALL RISK AND LIABILITY WHATSOEVER
RESULTING FROM THE USE OF SUCH PRODUCT, WHETHER USED SINGLY OR
IN COMBINATION WITH OTHER SUBSTANCES.

No statements or recommendations made herein are to be construed as a

representation about the suitability of any Product for the particular application
of Buyer or user or as an inducement to infringe any patent or other intellectual
property right. Buyer is responsible to determine the applicability of such infor-
mation and recommendations and the suitability of any Product for its own
particular purpose, and to ensure that its intended use of the Product does not
infringe any intellectual property rights.
The Product may be or become hazardous. The Buyer should obtain Material
Safety Data Sheets and Technical Data Sheets from Huntsman containing
detailed information on Product hazards and toxicity, together with proper
shipping, handling and storage procedures for the Product, and should comply
with all applicable governmental laws, regulations and standards relating to the
handling, use, storage, distribution and disposal of, and exposure to the
Product. Buyer shall also take all steps necessary to adequately inform, warn
and familiarize its employees, agents, direct and indirect customers and con-
tractors who may handle or be exposed to the Product of all hazards pertaining
to and proper procedures for safe handling, use, storage, transportation and
disposal of and exposure to the Product, and the containers or equipment in
which the Product may be handled, shipped or stored.

Please note that products may differ from country to country. If you have any
queries, kindly contact your local Huntsman representative.

Huntsman is a member of:

www.huntsman.com/textile_effects
(Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic
Pigments Manufacturers)

1x8005e—June 2007, Printed in Switzerland.