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OK recently I have decided to re-investigate the classic, top flap, 2-mag

pouch design.  Again this is "A" way of doing it, as I am experimenting with
different prototypes to see which one I like the best.  I selected this one for a
tutorial because it shows a different bottom closure technique that I think you
would find interesting if you're not familar with it. 

It's basically a take-off on the classic USGI 3-mag pouch, from the ALICE
issue days.  It has been modifed to take the side flaps off the top flap and cut
down to 2-mag size.  The basic dimensions are: 
overall length: 22 1/2"
length at bottom of pouch side: 7 3/8"
width: 8"
width at 1st step: 5 1/2"
length at 1st step: 8"
width of top flap/back: 3 3/16"

Of course you could square off the top flap as well.  I rounded it because this
lends itself well to being edge taped, which is the preferred method of making
this style of pouch, although I suppose you could double wall it.
The next step is to roll over the top pouch edge.  I used 3/8".  Notice it is
rolled to the outside so the mags won't catch when extracted.

Next you sear the raw edges.  Pay particular attention to the corner indicated
by the hemos.  It is important to sear this point well because it butts up
against the binding tape later.  Failure to do so will leave an area subject to
fraying and possible pouch failure.
Here is another step that will save you time and bullshit later.  Go ahead and
sew these over, 3/8".
 
 Now we are ready to bind.  I'm using a common bolt-on 1" tape binding
attachment.  To start, fold the tape under and butt up right into the pouch
notch.  Start sewing.  Keep gentle constant pressure on the material to keep
the tape snug.
When you get to the radius, slowly and carefully stitch your way around it,
keeping gentle pressure on the material and constantly moving the material in
an arcing motion.  Avoid stopping, lifting the presser foot to re-position as this
leaves "kinks" in the stitch pattern.
When you get to the end, fold the pouch over so you can stitch right up to
the pouch side.  Cut off tape several inches past this point.
OK now we're going to finish the binding.  Start with the ending side.  Mark
off approx 1/4".  Cut and fold it under, position it up in the notch as far up as
it will go.  Now stich it closed.  I use a short "Z" stitch to start, then overlap
stitch down into the binding at least 1 1/2".  Do the same thing to your start
side.
Now we're going to add a web stiffener, running the entire length of the
pouch.  This is a good alternative to double layer pouches, as the webbing
gives you strength and a chaffing strip, but keeps all the thickness out of the
closing seams.  I am using a 2" wide webbing strip.  Of course you can use
any width you want.  I'm going with 2" cuz I'm going to fold it over and use it
to mount the closure velcro and create a tunnel for shock cord.  Start at the
top of the pouch, leaving plenty of length to fold over, and sew down to
within 3" of the top flap.  We are going to leave this portion open to add hook
velcro later.
Now sew on hook velcro.  I'm using an approx 2" square piece.  You will
notice I am setting it back a little bit from the edge.  A couple of reasons for
this.  On curved flaps, the edge tape makes it hard to sew webbing and velcro
down flat on it, so it's easier to set this back a ways so you don't end up with
a wrinkled mess in this area.  Also, it was suggested that I use a "set back"
like this to allow a little extra area for your fingers to grip when opening the
flap.
 Now we are going to fold the pouch together and test fit the mags.  This is
the unique feature about this pouch so I will show it again when we stitch it
closed.  But for now, here's the first fold. 
Now the second fold pulls the pouch straight down, aligning the previously
sewn edge with the new folded edge. 
Now, holding that all together, fold the side of the pouch in to and clamp. 
You may have to practice this a few times. 
Now we are going to test fit the mags.  Mark on the back the top edge of the
mags.
Mark on the front the point where the top flap ends.  Notice I have left a little
webbing loop past the top of the pouch.  This is for a pull tab to re-insert
mags. 
Now sew on the loop velcro for top flap closure.
Fold the webbing over and sew into place, leaving tunnel for shock cord.
Now lay out your PALS grid on the back.  I am going to use two web straps
with snaps.  Of course you could leave these off and use MLAICE clips.
Sew on straps.  Start Box "X" at the top or where the most strain will be. 
Triple stitch.
Now add hardware.  The 2" webbing strip also acts as a nice doubler for
hardware.
OK, now down to the nitty gritty.  Here's how to stich down the bottom corners.  First
fold.
Second fold.
Now first stitch line.  Make sure you keep this line perpendicular (90 deg) to the side of
the pouch.
Second stitch line.  Make sure this stays parallel to the pouch side.
Thrid stitch line.  This is a 45 deg angle.  Stich until you're approx 1/16" away from the
edge of the pouch.  You have to feel for it underneath.
Fourth stitch line.  Lay it in parallel to the pouch edge.  Try to keep lined up with the
edge tape stitching.
Now overstitch you start and then stitch it again (3 passes). 
Repeat on the other side.  Make sure you keep the two sew patterns as even
as possible.
I know this looks kinda complex but with a little practice becomes second
nature.  The advantage to doing it this way is there is no simple raw edges to
fray or fail; it is a much stronger joint than you typical bottom seam.  And the
folded material (along with the 2" webbing) gives you additional layers on the
bottom, again without doubling.  So it's not the only way to do it, but it's a
valuable tool in your tool box.

Now, to close, you simply fold the pouch up.


Align the edge tape in the corner and clamp.
Now stitch sides close.  Notice "zipper" presser foot which makes this job
much easier by focusing more pressure directly over the seam.
And finally the finished pouch.  Front view.
Back view.
And bottom view. Note corner stitch patterns.

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