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{ San {
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Princess Mononoke
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MATERIALS AND TOOLS
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^ Cotton thread size sport ^ Safety eyes size 14mm
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^ Crochet hook 2.20 mm ^ Some blush for her cheeks
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^ Wire ^ Masking tape
^ Wire cutters ^ Fluffy yarn
^ Yarn needle ^ Crochet hook 6.00 mm
^ Stuffing
ABREVIACIONES
^ MR: Magic ring ^ Hdc: half double crochet
^ Sc: Single crochet ^ Hdc inc: half double crochet increase
^ Inc: Increase ^ W: 3 sc in the same stitch Ravelry
^ Dec: decrease ^ Blo: back loop only
^ Sl st: slip stitch ^ Flo: front loop only
^ Ch: chain ^ ( )*: repeat as many times as its indicated
COLORS
^ Nude: for head and limbs
^ Red: Mask and face details
^ Navy blue: dress
^ White: Shirt
^ Brown: Hair
^ Sand: Boots
^ Black: Tiara and mask details
^ Mustard: mask details
^ Fluffy yarn: Cape and hood
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TUTORIALS
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FRONT LOOP (FLO) Y BACK LOOP (BLO)
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In some cases, you will have to work on one of the
parts of the stitch. I mean working just only front loop
(FLO)or back loop (BLO). So I leave a reminder here.
INVISIBLE DECREASE
Insert the hook in the FLO of the first stitch and insert the hook directly throu-
gh the next FLO (you have 3 loops in the crochet). (Photo 1) Now work the single
crochet as always, yarn over and draw through two loops on the hook. (Photo 2).
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Change the color by incorporating a new step at the final of the previous color
stitch as follows. Work the last stitch with the previous color until you have 2 loops
on the hook, now yarn over and draw through the 2 remaining loops.
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DOUBLE CROCHET VARIATION
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You Will make the first double crochet as normal, doing yarn over and draw
through the two-by-two loops until forming the DC, from the second stitch
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do the variation. Now don’t do the yarn over step, insert the hook through the ko A m i g u
loop that we have in front of the previous stitch (Photo 1) and draw the loop
through there, now insert the hook in the next stitch (Photo 2) and yarn over,
so as always and draw through the two-by-two loops until forming the DC.
As a result, the double crochet Will be more closed (Photo 3).
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INVISIBLE CLOSE
Finish the last stitch and don’t do a slip stitch, cut the thread, and take out it
through the loop, thread the needle and insert it by skipping 1 stitch from the outsi-
de to the inside of the part (Photo 1). Insert the hook again in the first stitch, the
thread comes from (Photo 2) to form a false stitch (Stitch to close) (Photo 3).
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CLOSE THE REMAINING STITCHES
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This way to close is only for three-dimensional pieces, before the last round
that reamins only dec (Ex: Round 32: (1SC, inc)*6 (12), Round 33: 6dec (6).)
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instead of crocheting the 6 decreases and we have a horrible hole, do a in- ko A m i g u r
visible clousure in the penultimate round, in this case looking at the exameple,
close the round 32, now thread the needle and pass it through all the FLO of
the round (Photo 1) and when you finich that, pass it again for the first stitch
of the round and pull the thread until the hole is closed (Photo 2). Hide the
thread, cut and done.
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INDICATIONS
^ Read the pattern throughly before starting
^ Use a crochet a size smaller than the one indicated by your yarn supplier.
^ San is done in a continuous round unless indicated otherwise
^ Use a stitch marker to indicate your first stitch
^ For your doll to have the perfect shape you have to stuff it firmly. And when
I say firmly I mean that if you think its stuffed enough, stuff it some more. You
can use a pencil or a chopstick to getto every corner.
^ Our doll’s final size is 24 cm using the recommended materials.
^ This doll is articulated, so its not suitable for children under the age of 5. If
you don’t want to articulate it, crochet 2-3 extra rows for the neck and stuff
firmly.
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DIFFICULTY
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This doll is an intermediate-advanced level. You need to have basic knowledge of the
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stitches.
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The body is done in a single piece and you need to handle the wire to articulate it
from head to toe.
ARMS x2
In nude
01: MR with 6 st
02: (2 sc, inc)*2 (8)
03-17: 8 sc
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Cut the yarn and close.
BOOTS x2
In sand
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04: BLO 18 sc.
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05: 4 sc, 4 dec, 4 sc, dec (13)
06-10: 13 sc.
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Close with a slst, cut the yarn and hide the end.
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LEGS x2
In nude.
01: 4 ch.
02: 2 sc, W, 1 sc, inc (8)
03: Inc, sc, 3 inc, sc, 2 inc. (14)
04: BLO 14 sc.
05: 2 sc, 4 dec, 2 sc, dec (9)
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06-09: 9 sc.
10: Inc, 8 sc (10)
11-13: 10 sc.
14: (4 sc, inc)*2 (12)
15-17: 12 sc.
18: Dec, 3 sc, 2 HDC inc, 3 sc, dec (12)
19: Inc, 3 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, inc (12)
Cut 17 cm of wire, fold the tip to form the foot (see pic) cover with masking tape
and place it
inside the leg.
Because of different tension while working on the knee, these may not turn out
100% straight with the first instructions. If its your case, try this variation:
Some parts like the knees, the join in the legs or arms may have a variation of 1,2
or 3 stitches.
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I recommend that before you start stuffing the
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feet, place the boots first. That way, the boot will
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be firmly in place and won’t fall off. After this,
you can start stuffing the legs firmly as you go..
20-21: 12 sc
22: Inc, 11 sc (13)
23-24: 13 sc.
25: Inc, 12 sc (14)
26-29: 14 sc.
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Close with a slst, cut the yarn in the first leg. For the second, DO NOT cut. Work 8
sc before start
joining.
**Because of the different tension while working, those extra stitches may vary. I
recommend to place the legs facing forward, look for the center of each leg and
start from there.**
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BODY
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Now the first stitch of the leg, will be our starting stitch.
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01-03: 36 sc
Change colour to dark blue.
04: 36 sc.
05: BLO (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
06: 30 sc.
07: 6 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 8 sc (28)
08: 28 sc.
09: 5 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 7 sc (27)
10-14: 26 sc.
Now, you will join the arms. As with the legs, this may vary in 1 or 2 stitches to
what’s written in the pattern. Ravelry
15: 7 sc, 3 sc (working in a stitch from the arm and from the body ), 9 sc, 3 sc
(arm and body), 4sc (26)
Change to nude.
Cut 15 cm of wire, fold the tip to form the hand, cover it with masking tape
and place it inside the arm. You don’t need to stuff it.
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16: In the back: 7 sc. In the 5 remaining stitches from the arm: dec, sc, dec.
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Front/chest: 9 sc. In the 5 remaining stitches from the other arm: dec, sc, dec.
In the back: 4 sc. (26)
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Once you are done with round 16, bend the wire from the arms inwards to form the
shoulder and again upwards. Just before finishing the neck, cut the excess and cover
the tips together with masking tape. Make sure nothing shows and everything is cover
with tape.
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SKIRT
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In blue.
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Place the doll downwards and hook your yarn in the first FLO from round 5
from the body.
Close each round with a slst and ch one to turn. Work the first stitch in the
same one.
01: 36 sc
02: BLO 36 sc.
03: (5 sc, inc)* 6 (42)
04-05: 42 sc.
06: 3 sc, inc, ( 6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
07-12: 48 sc.
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15: Dec, 40 sc, dec (42)
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16: Dec, 38 sc, dec (40)
17: Dec, 36 sc, dec (38)
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Close with a slst and hide the end
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SHIRT
In white.
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Now, we will work on the straps (see pic 1)
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STRAPS
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17: Sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, sc (18)
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18-20: 18 sc. at the end of this row and BEFORE turning, work a sc on the
edge of row 7 from the front to join both parts. Turn WITHOUT making
the turning ch and skip a stitch.
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21: Sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, sc (20). Work a sc joining both parts in row 7, turn ko A m i g u r
without the chain, skip the slst.
22-26: 20 sc.
Finish and hide the ends.
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HEAD
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In brown.
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01: MR 6 sc.
02: 6 inc (12)
03: (sc, inc)*6 (18) Place ey
04: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24) es bet
rounds 20 ween
05: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30) -21,
9 st apar
06: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36) t.
07: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
08: (6 sc, inc)*6 (48)
09: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
10: (8 sc, inc)*6 (60)
Change colour to nude.
11-23: 60 sc
It is important that we start every other round with a dec. so we don’t end Ravelry
up with a “scared” face (marks from the inc or dec) we didn’t do it on the
top because with the hair we are not going to see it.
!! DO NOT SEW THE HEAD UNTIL EVERY SINGLE PIECE OF THE DOLL IS DONE!! THERE ARE
PIECES THAT WILL NOT FIT OR WOULD BE MORE DIFFICULT TO PLACE WITH THE HEAD ON. !!
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EARS x2
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In nude
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01: MR 6 sc.
02: 4 inc (10)
HAIR
In brown.
To make Mononoke’s hair, we will use a 10 ch base and add strands to both sides. Ravelry
I recommend placing a stitch marker in both ends of this 10 ch base to use as a
guide.
01: 35 ch, start at the second ch from the hook, 24 hdc. This first strand has to
be next to the stitch marker placed in ch 10 (where our 10 ch base starts). Join to
the base ch with the stitch marker with a slst. Now we will start the 2nd strand:
ch 25, turn, 24 hdc. This 2 strands start in the same chain. Slst to the next ch to
start the 3rd strand.
02: 36 ch, from the 2nd ch from the hook, 35 hdc, slst to the base, 36 ch, 35hdc.
03: Repeat row two 8 times more. In total you should have 20 strands of hair in
the first half of the foundation chain (2 strands per chain)
I recommend to tie the first half of the hair with an elastic so its easier to sew
it to the head and its easier to identify the first half at the end.
Now, using the loop from the other side of the chain, repeat row two 9 times. In
the last ch work 25 ch, 24 hdc, slst, 25 ch, 24 hdc.
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Leave a long tail to sew the center of the hair to the head and stitch some of
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the strands. You should have 40 strands of hair to cover the whole head.
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MASK
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In red
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Finish every round with a slst and a ch 1.
01: MR 6 sc
02: Inc *6 (12)
03: (Sc, inc)*6 (18)
04: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
05: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
06: 2 sc, inc (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
07: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
08: 3 sc, inc (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
09: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
10: 4 sc, inc (8 sc, inc)*5, 4 sc (60)
11: (9 sc, inc)*6 (66)
12: 66 sc. Ravelry
Finish off and leave a long tail to sew to the hood.
MASK'S DETAILS
In black
01: MR 6 sc.
02: Inc *6 (12)Change to mustard
03: FLO 12 sc.
04: BLO (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
Finish with a slst and leave a long tail to sew them
to the mask.
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Now, we will work on the strap that goes above
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the eyes:
In white.
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01: ch 26 ko A m i g u
02: 25 sc
Finish with a slst and leave a long tail to sew to
the mask. You can also hie the end and glue them
with some UHU.
01: Ch 24
02: 23 sc
MASK'S EARS x2
In red.
01: MR 6 sc.
02: (2 sc, inc) *2 (8)
03: (3 sc, inc) *2 (10)
04: (4 sc, inc) *2 (12)
05: 12 sc.
06: (5 sc, inc) *2 (14)
07: (6 sc, inc)*2 (16)
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TIARA
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In black.
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Close the rounds with a slst and a ch 1.
01: MR 7 sc.
02: 7 inc (14)
Close and cut the end.
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HOOD
To make the hood and the cape, you will need to work with 2 strands of yarn: a
regular one, just like the rest of the yarn you are using, and a fluffy one. This way,
it will be easier to see the stitches. You will also need a 6.00mm crochet hook.
You will be working in rows: at the end, chain one and turn.
As an alternative, you can use chenille instead of the fluffy + regular yarn and a
5.00mm crochet
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With fluffy yarn.
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01: Ch 25
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02: 24 sc.
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03: Inc, 22 sc, inc (26) ko A m i g u
04: 26 sc.
05: Inc, 24 sc, inc (28)
06-14: 28 sc.
Finish and cut the yarn.
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EARRINGS
In white.
01: Ch 3.
02: 1 sc, W, inc. (6)
03: Inc, sc, 2 inc, sc, inc (10)
Close and leave a long tail to sew to the ears or cut the
yarn and glue them with some UHU.
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CAPE
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With fluffy white yarn and 6 mm hook.
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01: Ch 9
02: 8 sc.
03-05: 8 sc.
06: Dec, 6 sc, dec (6)
07-10: 6 sc.
11: Ch 4, turn, 9 sc, tuen, 3 sc, slst.
Finish, cut and hide the end.
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NECKLACE
In black.
Before making the slipknot, leave a long enough tail to sew the necklace to one of
the straps of the cape.
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01: Ch 11 leaving a long tail on both ends.
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02: Change to white and hook it to the 3rd chain. Ch 3 and from the 2nd
from the hook, make 2 slst and a third one to the base.
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Cut the yarn.
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03: Skip 1 and hook the yarn on the next one, repeating row 2 until you have 4 ko A m i g u
little strands.
You have to have 2 ch left at the end.
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^ Place the shirt
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^ Sew the necklace to the cape and place it on her neck and back
^ Embroider her lashes with blacj and brows with brown
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^ With red thread, embroider the triangles on her face. Thet should be 3
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stitches wide and 3 stitches long.
^ Place the hair carefully each half of the hair before sewing it to the head. I re-
commend tying it with an elastic, center and sew. Make a couple of stitches to fix
the strands to the head.
^ Cut the excess wire from the neck if needed, cover with masking tape, place the
head leaving visible a couple of rows from the neck and sew the head in place.
^ Place the tiara laving visible the triangle on the forehead. You can fix it to the
head with a couple of stitches.
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^ Sew or glue with UHU all the parts of the mask together.
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^ Sew the mask to the hood.
^ Sew ears to the hood at the height of each “eye” on the mask
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^ Put some blush on if wanted.
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TESTERS
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YOU HAVE FINISHED YOUR
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PRINCESS MONONOKE!!!
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Thank you very much for buying my pattern and trusting my work, I hope you
are satisfied with the results and if you upload a picture, tag me! I can’t
wait to see and share all of your dolls so people would know how talented
you are.
This design took many hours of hard work and its been made with a lot of
love for you, so please, respect that and do not misuse the pattern.
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amigurumis
@amineko
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