Bicol University

College of Industrial Technology

Bachelor of Science in Automotive Technology
East Campus, Legazpi City

AT-20
AUTO BODY REPAIR, PAINTING
And COACHWORK

Lesson 9 (5th part)

Cyrel H. Baniel
Professor
Objectives:
1. Describe the paint finishing systems applicable to plastic parts.
2. Summarize the methods for applying a smooth, glossy finish

26.13 PANEL REPAIRS

Basecoat/clearcoat panel repair involves painting the whole body part with color and clear. The
whole panel is refinished without blending the colorcoats. For example, it a new fender has
been installed, the whole fender would have to be sprayed with primer primecoats and sealer,
then color basecoat, and finally clearcoat.
Most solid colors can be matched with panel repairs.
With hard-to-match colors (pearls and metallics, especially golds and silvers), sometimes
adjacent panels must have the colorcoat blended where the repaired and unrepaired panels
meet.

New and old paint differences tend to be very noticeable with bright metallic colors. It can be
difficult to match the new metallic finish exactly with the previous one when repainting the
whole panel. When unmasked, the new metallic paint may be a slightly different color than the
original finish.

You must extend the blending over a wide area, possibly into undamaged panels, to help hide
the paint differences. This will make the panel repair less visible. If a panel has damage at both
ends or if the whole panel is to be refinished, the blending might have to extend onto both
adjacent panels even though they are undamaged and do not require repainting.

Solid Color Panel Repairs

Panel repair with a solid color involves spraying the entire panel (door, hood, and so on). The
paint match is made at the panel joints. For a complete panel repair, mask off the area that will
not be painted. You must also make sure that the new color almost exactly matches the existing
one. Panel repainting is done to repair complete panels separated by a definite boundary, such
as a door or a fender gap. The whole panel is given normal medium wet coats of paint.
However, you may have to blend or shade the paint film gradually more thinly over areas such
as between the quarter panel and roof panel where the whole area cannot be painted.
26.14 OVERALL REFINISHING

Overall refinishing is just what its name implies: The whole vehicle is sprayed with a fresh coat
of paint. Overall refinishing is a costly, major repair that takes considerable time and skill. Some
reasons for refinishing the entire vehicle include:

If over half of all body surfaces require repainting, the estimate and your work order may
stipulate overall refinishing. If the vehicle has a deteriorated finish (dull, cracked, peeling,
flaking, or worn paint), overall refinishing may be stipulated.
If a car owner wishes to change the vehicle's color, he or she will request a new paint job. When
several new panels have been welded in place after a major collision, the insurance company or
owner may okay an overall paint job so all panels match perfectly.

All body shops do overall refinishing. However, there are also specialty paint shops that do
nothing but overall painting at reduced prices. Custom auto body shops specialize in glamour
finishes for custom vehicles antiques, and classic cars. Custom painting is explained in Chapter
27.

Overall Spraying Methods

Generally, most technicians start a complete paint job at the roof. Spray at the highest panels
on the vehicle and work your way down, always going to the wet edge. Because overspray and
dry spray are pulled down by gravity, this technique prevents overspray dust from setting onto
areas that have already started to dry.
There is no single, most perfect procedure for overall repainting of a vehicle. However, most
refinishers will agree that the diagrams in Figure 26-51 illustrate the best agree that the panel
sequence. For overall spraying, always maintain a wet edge. Do not paint halt of a large panel
(roof, hood, trunk lid) and then forget to paint the other half right away. If the paint edge dries,
a rough textured surface will be formed where the fresh paint covers the partially cured paint.
The partially dry paint will not melt and flow together with the fresh paint. A dull line in the
paint finish will form down the middle of the panel. Avoid sags in the overlap line by changing
the point of overlapping. Methodically overlap each pass of the spray
gun. Trigger the gun to stop the paint flow as you change directions while spraying.
Some painters like to walk spray the sides of a vehicle. While holding the Spray gun steady and
the right distance from the body, they walk down the side of the vehicle
while spraying. They paint the fenders, doors, and quarter panels all at once, in long passes.
This helps avoid uneven paint film thickness, because the whole side of the vehicle is painted as
if it were one large panel. You do not have to trigger the gun on and off as you change
directions over each panel. This is a fast, efficient way of painting the whole side of a vehicle.

To quickly spray while walking, the spray gun must be adjusted for almost maximum fluid flow.
Walk and move the gun at normal speed to apply a medium wet coat, unless otherwise
specified by product directions. As you walk back and forth while spraying, overlap each coat
about halfway as you would with spot or panel
repairs.

Sometimes with an overall paint job, panel gaps are back masked and underbody surfaces are
not painted. However, when restoring a classic vehicle or when changing a different color, all
trim, glass, and many fastened must be removed. Part removal is needed so that all surfaces
(both the front and rear of panels and panel
flanges) can be repainted. This is an expensive repair, usually costing the customer several
thousand dollars.

Force Drying Enamel Topcoats

Force drying fresh paint by means of spray booth heat convection ovens or infrared lights will
greatly reduce waiting time between coats. To help force-flash paints
between coats, warm the spray booth only to about 100°F or to paint manufacturer-specified
temperatures. This is enough heat to speed paint flashing between coats, but it will not affect
the paint. Warming the booth between coats can greatly reduce the wait time between coats
and speed shop production.
After painting, you must allow the paint to flash or partially cure before baking. Baking is done
at higher booth temperatures. If you accidentally bake fresh paint
too quickly or before enough solvent has evaporated, paint problems can develop.
Typically, paint baking is done for 15-20 minutes at 160°F (72°C) until partially cured. Again,
allow sufficient flash time before baking for the solvents to escape so the
paint will not blister. Generally speaking, pastel colors are more heat sensitive, and extreme
caution must be used in force drying or baking them to avoid discoloration.

Care must be exercised to avoid overheating a new finish, because wrinkling, blistering,
pinholing, or discoloration of the paint can result. It is better to force dry or bake at lower
temperatures for slightly longer periods than to run higher temperatures for shorter periods.
Again, refer to the paint manufacturer's directions for force drying temperatures and times for
the specific type of paint.

SHOP TALK When force drying, be careful to measure the surface temperature
of the vehicle, not the air temperature. Generally, do not bake at too high a temperature
(above 160°F or 72°C) because nonmetal part damage and paint
problems can occur.

Water-Based Paint Characteristics

Waterborne or water-based paints use distilled water as the solvent or carrier. Water-based
automotive paint has been around for years as a barrier coat. Water-based paints are still not
used very much in the auto repair field. However, some states with a more serious pollution
problem have made water-based colorcoats mandatory.

Water-based or latex clearcoats cannot be used in warranty repair of factory vehicles. They are
not durable enough to protect the metal or plastic body panels from moisture, acid rain, and
the elements.

Most shops are still using solvent-based paints because of their increased service life and
durability. A paint chip in the clearcoat could expose the water based paint to moisture. The
small chip can allow the elements to attack the water-based color film. The water-based paint
could continue to dissolve under the clear. After enough time, the small chip in the water proof
clear can result in catastrophic paint failure of a
larger paint area. Since you may have to apply either type of paint someday, you must
understand the differences and similarities between water-based and solvent-based paints.
Water-based paints might be the future of automotive repair and painting. Several states have
already passed laws requiring the use of less toxic water-based colorcoats.

Paint manufacturers are selling water-based products into both the OEM and refinishing
markets. Water-based colorcoat is available in all solid and metallic colors.
Since solvent-based and water-based paints use the same pigments and similar binders, it is not
difficult to match paint colors.
Most shops are still using solvent-based paints because of their increased service life and
durability.
A paint chip in the clearcoat could expose the water. Based paint to moisture. The small chip
can allow the elements to attack the water-based color film. The water-based paint could
continue to dissolve under the clear. After enough time, the small chip in the water. proof clear
can result in catastrophic paint failure of a larger paint area.
Many paint manufacturers premix their water-based paints so they are ready to filter and
spray. If you have to mix the water-based colorcoat, mix in the right amount of each toner or
color pigment by weight, add the correct amount of distilled water recommended, and test
spray. Water-based colorcoats do not have a "pot life" and
can be stored in closed containers for later application. You might also give the extra water-
based paint to the customer since it matches the vehicle.

Water-based paints do not emit the strong mineral oil odor, as do solvent-based paints. This
strong varnish-type odor is caused by organic chemicals evaporating into the atmosphere as
VOCs. Solvent odor and VOC emissions can be harmful to your respiratory system and the
environment. This is the reason some states are requiring

that body shops convert to water-based refinishing products. Water-based primers and
colorcoat paints are desirable because they emit less VOC pollution when drying
from the evaporation of water out of the binder and pigments.

The water-based colorcoats must be protected from the elements by layers of oil-based,
solvent-based clear coats. After applying the water-based colorcoats to cove
the repair, conventional oil-based clearcoats must be applied over the water-based paint to
protect it from rain water and the environment.
Water-based paints use the same pigments as urethane paints. Therefore, both types of
colorcoats will produce the same light-fastness and color matching. The main disadvantage of
water-based paints is their very slow drying times. They can take three times as long to dry.
Solvent, 2K (paint and hardener) urethanes cure
through a chemical action rather than by slower water (H0) evaporation. Another disadvantage
of water-based paints is that they are not as hard when dry as urethane paints. They will
scratch more easily than a harder film of all oil-based
paint. Water-based paint manufacturers are developing mild oil-based c0-solvents to reduce
water-based paint drying times. However, these co-solvents contribute to
VOC emissions.
Even though water-based paints are not as toxic as urethane paints, you still must wear an
approved respirator when spraying. Even breathing airborne pigments
from water-based paints can be very detrimental to your health. Fumes from water-based
paints are known to cause allergies and/or asthma, especially if you are a
smoker.
Do not let the idea of water-based paint cause you to ignore the dangers of prolonged exposure
to chemically hardening substances. It is very important to always use proper respiratory
protection when spray applying any type of primer or paint. Both solvent- and water-based
paints Contain harmful isocyanates. They are very harmful to your respiratory system and must
never be inhaled. Wear an approved, properly fitting respirator mask, preferably an air-supplied
respirator.

Water-based clear is an "intercoat," not a final clearcoat. It can be used to decrease VOCs to
build up clear over the colorcoats before final coats of non-water soluble oil-based clearcoats.

Water-based paints never use an activator or hardener. They dry softer and more porous than
oil-based paints while reducing air pollution. Water-based paint cannot be used as the top clear
coat! The latex or water-based paint can slowly dissolve
from exposure to rainwater and the elements. Water based paint (colorcoats) must be fully
coated with conventional urethane-, solvent-, or oil-based clearcoats or
even old clear lacquer to protect it. Water-based and solvent-based paints are typically
compatible. Most urethane primers, paints, and clear coats work perfectly well with water-
based paints.

At present, water-based paint systems require a urethane primer and urethane clearcoat to
produce a durable finish. Water-based paints are nonreactive. This
means that water-based paints can accept and bond with any type of existing paint. In fact,
water-based paint was originally used as a "barrier coat" (sealer) between old
lacquer and newer urethane paints, to prevent cracking, lifting, and peeling of the new finish.
Always use a complete water-based paint system to assure proper bonding of all spray coats.
For example, enamels and lacquers that use a very harsh solvent may degrade and chemically
damage the water-based paint
Although water-based paint cannot be used as a topcoat or clearcoat, by using water-based
primers and colorcoats, you will reduce your exposure to toxic emissions while still producing a
beautiful, long-lasting finish.

Water is not as good as solvents as a carrying agent for pigments. Also, shine and "depth" may
not be as attractive as with solvent-based paints. An oil-based colorcoat will have more shine
than a water-based basecoat. Paint manufacturers are constantly working on their water-based
colorcoats better match oil based paints. If your shop has gone to all water-based colors, keep
this in mind when trying to repair and match the color of a water-based colorcoat with an
existing solvent-based colorcoat.

Water-based paint viscosity or thickness can vary by manufacturer. Most mix their water-based
colorcoats so that they are ready to spray; no water reduction is required. If water-based paint
has been on the shelf for a while, distilled water reduction may be required to achieve the
correct spray viscosity.

Spraying Water-Based Paints

Any modern, HVLP gravity feed spray gun will work with water-based paints. Make sure your
needle and tip are made of stainless steel and not steel. Steel needles will quickly corrode and
rust when repeatedly spraying water or latex paints. Some painters like to use one size smaller
spray gun tip set to improve the atomization of water-based paints. Better atomization will help
pull some of the water out of the spray mist before it hits the body surface to speed drying. It
will also help smooth and level the water-based paint during spray application.

Adjust your spray gun before spraying water-based paint on the vehicle. Test your spray pattern
on masking paper. Adjust the rate of flow and fan adjustments until an equal-sided elliptical
shape is shooting out of your spray gun and onto the paper. Again, your test pattern will
become wet very quickly as the water, binder, and pigments deposit on the paper sheet.

When spraying water-based paint in very hot, dry conditions, you may need to pour a slow-
drying additive to the paint. Refer to the paint manufacturer information for details on mixing,
additives, spraying, and drying temperatures.
When clearcoating a water-based paint, be very careful to make full wet coats over all surfaces,
including along the bottoms of doors, fenders, and aprons. If you fail to spray the clear fully in
any area of repair, the clear protective coating can be easily fractured to expose it to the
elements. The area without enough clearcoat could be very soft and fail to provide proper
protection from even minor impacts that could penetrate the topcoat, exposing the latex
colorcoat. A car painted or refinished with water-based paint should be waxed more often than
conventional oil-based finish. The wax will help protect the thin urethane film that protects the
water-based color from the environment.

Water-based paints go on very wet when sprayed compared to solvent-based colorcoats. This is
fine, and the high pigment ratio will help the water-based paint fully cover very quickly. When
first spraying water-based paints, it is very easy to overapply the liquid paint material to the
point of paint running and sagging, ruining the paint job. Apply water-based paint a little more
slowly and stop applying when the new paint film looks wet to avoid ugly runs! Water-based
paints should be baked under heat lamps at approximately 140-160°F (60-70°C). Water-based
paints should not be run through an automated car wash because the abrasive brushes could
break through the thin urethane clearcoat and into the softer, more porous water colorcoats.
This could result in rapid paint film deterioration, discoloring, fade, paint breakdown, and other
problems that lead to rusting.

At the proper drying temperature, oil or solvent-based colorcoats might take 15 minutes to
cure and solidify. Water-based colorcoats can take up to 45 minutes to evaporate the water
and dry. This can adversely affect body shop production since the painter has to wait so
long before moving another car into the paint booth. Some shops are buying or building ovens
so that vehicles can be moved into the drying room and free up the paint booth.

Once water-based paint has been sprayed, large fans can be used to increase airflow over the
wet paint to speed drying times. This can reduce drying times down to those of conventional
urethane-based paint systems. Blend water-based colorcoats into any existing color to produce
a gradual fade between the old and new paints. This will help hide any slight differences in the
two colors.

26.15 REMOVAL OF MASKINGMATERIALS

Removal of masking materials is a fairly simple task. If you do not get careless and hit or bump
the fresh paint, demasking can be a very rewarding task. As you remove masking materials, the
beauty of the new paint job becomes evident and you can begin to admire your work.

Demasking Wait Time

Never remove paint masking materials until the finish has had enough time to fully flash. The
very top of the paint must be cured enough that it is not easily damaged by a light touch. Again,
wait time before demasking will vary. With shop temperature, type of paint product, and other
factors. Refer to Figure 26-52.
To make sure the paint is flashed enough for masking material removal, touch a piece of
masking tape that has been covered with paint. A light touch should not leave a fingerprint in
the paint film. If the paint film is not marred when touched lightly, you can carefully remove the
masking materials.
If the finish has been force dried, remove the masking tape while the finish is still warm. If the
finish is allowed to cool, the tape will stick and be difficult to remove. It can also leave adhesive
behind or lift paint edges along fine line tape.

When removing fine line tape, pull the tape back and straight out away from the body, This will
make the fine line tape shear or cut the paint film cleanly without lifting or pulling up any new
paint. Normally, you should pull fine line tape off first. Avoid pulling fine line tape sideways,
which could damage the new paint. For a superior edge, fine line tape can be removed
when the paint has partially flashed. This must be performed carefully by the painter right after
painting.

Tabs can be left sticking out on the tape at the ends so the fine line tape can be pulled off easily.
Extreme care must be used so that the fresh, soft paint is not damaged. Pull the tape slowly so
that it comes off evenly. Take care not to touch any painted areas, because the
paint will still be soft under the flashed paint film. Accidental impact marks in the fresh paint
will take time to fix. Removal of masking materials is shown in Figure 26-53. If you used liquid
masking material, wash it off with soap and water. Do not wash freshly painted surfaces
until they are fully cured, however.

WARNING: Never mask a vehicle and let it sit for a prolonged period. Also, do not
let masking paper and tape get wet. Either situation will make demasking difficult and can cause
painting problems.

If masking tape is left on a body surface for too long. the tape adhesive can dry out. Dried
adhesive can make it impossible to pull the tape back off. In that case, you have to gently
scrape off the old masking tape. Then the old tape adhesive has to be cleaned off with an
adhesive solvent.
If the masking material is on too long before painting the tape edge can also roll up and allow
paint to spray onto parts that are not intended to be painted.