Page 1 of 14

Amelia
Crochet pattern

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
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Amelia

About this pattern:

• Amelia the mermaid is worked in the amigurumi method i.e. continuous rounds = without each round being
joined.
• It is a seamless project i.e. made in one piece.
• If the same yarn and hook is used, it measures around 32cm.

Materials:
Yarn used: • DK cotton yarn in body colour, eg. DROPS Muskat Off White
• Boucle style yarn, eg. DROPS Alpaca Boucle Pink for hair
• DK cotton yarn in hair colour, eg. DROPS Muskat Light Pink, for scalp
• DK cotton yarn in preferred tail colour, eg. DROPS Muskat Mint Green, for tail
• DK cotton yarn in matching colour, eg. DROPS Muskat Petrol, for tail fins
• DK cotton yarn in pink colour, eg. DROPS Muskat Old Pink, for bra
• DK cotton yarn in light pink colour, eg. DROPS Muskat Pink, for bra details

Hook size: 2,5 or 3 mm

Stuffing Polyester fiberfill
material:
Eyes: Safety eyes 10mm or embroidered
Others: • Aluminum / copper wire, 1-2mm diameter, I used 1,5 mm Aluminum
• Yarn needle
• Some white beads or pearls for decoration ( I used Czech fire polished glass beads)
• Blunt thin tool to make the stuffing easier, I used blunt end of my 2mm crochet hook
• Optionally, 2mm crochet hook for easier inserting of the hair

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 3 of 14

Abbreviations: (Please note: I am using visual symbols rather than actual abbreviations which is more common and handy for doll
patterns for which particular order of placing each increase / decrease is important)

ch Chain
R Round / Row
X Single crochet (X shaped) – see Appendix at the end
V Single crochet increase
A Single crochet decrease (invisible version – see Appendix at the end)
Y 1 Y-shape sequence = [X, 2ch, X]
YV 1 Y-shape increase = make 2 Y under the same 2 ch from Y sequence from the previous
round
YA 1 Y-shape decrease = when having two Y from previous row, start making X into the
1st Y but do not pull through, then make X into the 2nd Y, pull through all 3 loops on
the hook, ch 2 and X into the 2nd Y
T Half double crochet
TV Half double crochet increase
TA Half double crochet decrease
F Double crochet
FV Double crochet increase
FA Double crochet decrease
M Sc3tog = triple decrease of sc
W Make 3 sc in one stitch
TW Make 3 half double crochet in one stitch
sl st Slip stitch
BLO Back Loop Only
FLO Front Loop Only
[…]x Repeat the sequence x times

In case you have any questions / remarks, please don’t hesitate to contact me directly by sending email to
daera@wp.pl (please indicate in the subject it is pattern related)

Follow me on Instagram to be kept updated about new pattern release: @luluandtete

I would also love to see your finished amigurumi so do not hesitate to share it and tag me

You can tag Amelia with hashtag #amelialuluandtete.

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
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Arms (Make 2 of them)

R1 Create Magic Ring (6X). Leave the end outside the (6) Creating the hand
hand for better securing later.
R2 V, 4X, V (8)
R3 8X (8)
R4 [V, 3X]2 (10)
R5 10X (10)
R6 [A, 3X]2 (8)
R7 8X (8)
R8 [A, 2X]2 (6)
R9 6X (6)
R10 V, 5X (7)
R11-12 7X (2 rounds) (7)
R13 X, V, 5X (8)
R14 8X (8)
R15 6X, V, X (9)
R16 9X (9)
R17 2X, V, 6X (10) Creating the elbow
R18 3X, A, 5X (9)
R19 9X (9) Creating the arm
R20 V, 8 X (10)
R21 10X (10)
R22 V, 9X (11)
R23-26 11X (4 rounds) (11)
R27 2X, A, 7X (10)
R28-29 10X (2 rounds) (10)
Make additional 4 sl sts. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Close the magic ring on the hands by inserting the needle in the
stitches around.

Tail
The tail is worked in rounds, in a special stitch resembling fish scales – as described below – a combination of 1 sc, 2
ch and 1 sc repeated all around.

Y 1 Y-shape sequence = [X, 2ch, X]

YV 1 Y-shape increase = make 2 Y under the
YA
same 2ch loop Y

YA 1 Y-shape decrease = when having two Y

from previous row, start making X into the
1st Y but do not pull through, then make X
into the 2nd Y, pull through all 3 loops on YV

the hook, ch 2 and X into the 2nd Y

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 5 of 14

The Y – stitch
Please find below some explanation that may be useful in understanding the Y stitch.

Hint: it may be extremely useful to move a marker after each round, especially with the first rounds, when you are
still learning the stitch.

How to create Y-stitch

Y YV

YA

First 3 rounds:

R1: Make a Magic Ring of 6sc.

R2: *[1sc, 2ch, 1sc] all in the first sc from the Magic Ring. Skip 1. Repeat from the * 3 times.

R3: Start making your next Y under 2ch from the 1st Y created in R2 as shown on the picture. It will form a cone
(pic 3 and 4). Create another one under the same group of 2ch = making a Y increase = YV. Now create a Y under
next group of 2ch. Create one more Y under next group of 2ch.

Next round will again start simply by crocheting under next available group of 2 ch = don’t close rounds.

Continue this way with each next round and follow the instruction from the table on the next page.

Now you’ll crochet

here your next Y
(under both ch)

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 6 of 14

R1 Create Magic Ring (6X) (6)

R2 [Y, skip 1X]3 (3Y)
R3 YV, 2Y (4Y)
R4 YV, 3Y (5Y)
R5 YV, 4Y (6Y)
R6 YV, 5Y (7Y)
R7 7Y (7Y)
R8 YV, 6Y (8Y)
R9 8Y (8Y)
R10 YV, 7Y (9Y)
R11 9Y (9Y)
R12 YV, 8Y (10Y)
R13 10Y (10Y)
R14 YV, 9Y (11Y)
R15 11Y (11Y)
R16 YV, 10Y (12Y)
R17 12Y (12Y)
R18 YV, 11Y (13Y)
R19 13Y (13Y)
R20 YV, 12Y (14Y)
R21 14Y (14Y)
R22 3Y, YV, 6Y, YV, 3Y (16Y)
R23 16Y (16Y)
R24 YV, 15Y (17Y)
R25 17Y (17Y)
R26 YV, 16Y (18Y)
R27 18Y (18Y)
R28 2Y, YV, 12Y, YV, 2Y (20Y) Creating the “hips” of the mermaid
R29-30 20Y (2 rounds) (20Y)
R31 2Y, YA, 12Y, YA, 2Y (18Y)
R32 18Y (18Y)
R33 4Y, YA, 6Y, YA, 4Y (16Y)
R34 16Y (16Y)
Make 1 more X and 1 more sl st. This is how the tail should now look like from the front, from the side and from
the back. Change the yarn colour to your main body colour and work the body.

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 7 of 14

Body
You will continue with the body directly from the tail.

R1 BLO: 32X: make a X into only X from the (32)

last Y round of the tail (skip any ch)
R2 [4X, A]2, 9X, [A, 3X]2, X (28)
R3-4 28X (2 rounds) (28)

Insert a piece of the wire inside the tail (see pics below). Stuff the tail. Be very careful about how you do it: place
only a little bit of the stuffing at a time so that it can reach each area; also, do not overstuff or otherwise the tail
will not bend as it should. The wire needs to stay centered.

This is how the tail should look like now. You should be able to bend it in any direction a “real” mermaid could
do.

R5 X, [3X, A]2, 7X, [A, 3X]2 (24) In Bold you will find the stitches that fall
R6 24X (24) exactly in the middle of the front of the body,
R7 3X, V, 4X, V, 6X, V, 5X, V, 2X (28) so that you can keep better track of the
R8 28X (28) correct shaping.
R9 4X, V, 5X, V, 6X, V, 7X, V, 2X (32)
R10 32X (32) Forming the chest
R11 11X, 5V, 3X, 5V, 8X (42)
R12 11X, [X, V]5, 3X, [V, X]5, 8X (52)
R13 26X, M, 23X (50)
R14 50X (50)
R15 11X, [X, A]5, W, [A, X]5, A, 3X, A, X (40)
R16 3X, A, 4X, 6A, 3X, 5A, 6X (28)
R17 28X (28)
R18 7X, V, 15X, V, 4X (30)

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 8 of 14

Connecting the arms

Make additional 8X so that to reach the V from the previous round, last X you make should fall in the 1st X from
the V as on the picture below; from now on count the rounds from here!
R19 10X on the 1st arm (connect in the stitch (50)
right after the last sl st from the arm
created, see the picture below), 17X on the Reach
front of the body, 10X on the 2nd arm
this point
(connect in the 2nd X created from the V
by
from the previous round), 13X on the back
of the body. making
extra 8X

Start
here

Connect the arm again with the body on front:

After you finish Round 25,

the body and the
distribution should look 13X
like on the pictures at the
right.
10X 10X

17X
X
R20 10X, 2A, 9X, 2A, 10X, A, 9X, A (44)
Cut a piece of wire for arms (inverted
V-shaped, as on the picture). Insert
the wire into the arms connecting with
the main body wire spine and stuff the
arms lightly and with a little bit of
stuffing only at a time; use a blunt tool
so that you reach each space easier.

Stuff the chest; be careful not to lose

the shape of the bust.

Add another piece of wire with a loop

for the head as on the picture.

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 9 of 14

R21 [A, 2X]2, 3A, 5X, 3A, [2X, A]2, A, 7X, A (32)
Stuff the doll a bit more now and after each round from now on.
R22 A, 3X, 3A, X, 3A, 3X, 3A, X, 2A (20)
R23 A, 2X, A, 3X, A, 2X, A, 2X, A, X (15)
R24 [X, A]5 (10)
R25-27 10X (3 rounds) (10)

Head (Continue directly from the body)

R1 10V (20)
R2 [X, V]10 (30)
R3 [2X, V, 2X]6 (36)
R4 [5X, V]6 (42)
R5 [3X, V, 3X]6 (48)
R6 [7X, V]6 (54)
R7-17 54X (11 rounds) (54)
Place the safety eyes between rounds 11-12 and with 11 stitches of space between.
R18 [7X, A]6 (48)
Change the yarn to the same colour as you will use for the hair. Stuff the head.
Cut the body colour yarn off but leave a long tail outside so that to embroider the ears later.
R19 [3X, A, 3X]6 (42)
R20 [5X, A]6 (36)
R21 [2X, A, 2X]6 (30)
R22 [3X, A]6 (24)
R23 [X, A, X]6 (18)
R24 [X, A]6. Stuff the head even more. (12)
R25 6A, close the 6 stitches with a needle. (6)

Fasten off and weave in the end.

Create the ears 8 stitches away from the eyes on the same height, as shown on the pictures above.

Take a long piece of body color yarn and sew the holes under the arms.

Embroider the belly button on the belly.

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 10 of 14

Hair
You can make it with any yarn but if you want to get the nice curly effect, I recommend you a Boucle yarn such as
DROPS Alpaca Boucle.

Cut pieces of yarn of around 40-50cm long, fold them in two and attach to each stitch of the 1st round of the scalp;
every 2nd stitch of the 2nd-6th round; each stitch of the 7th round - as shown on the picture. If you are using a different
style yarn, it may be necessary to place more hair, especially in the rounds 4th-6th and in the front of the head – attach
it to each stitch of those rounds. Attach by inserting the crochet hook (I used a 2mm) in the longer arm of each “X”),
yarning over the folded piece of yarn and creating a loop (see pictures below).

Use scissors to correct the overall shape of the haircut.

Tail Fins
You will attach the fins directly to the tail; follow the photo instructions below to learn how to do it.
First, go through the tail on round 1, yarn over, make a loop, go through the tail again in the direction to the top of
the tail; yarn over again and create a new loop. Do it 7 times in total; it will create a chain on one side and a line
stitch on the other side. Turn around, ch1, now go through the line stitch to the other side and create a single crochet.
Continue like this until you create 6 sc; make a sc increase in the last stitch = 8sc in total. Turn around and now you
are ready to start crocheting the fin (in rows).

Once you are finished with the 1st one, turn the tail around, make another one on the opposite site of the tail, as on
the picture.

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 11 of 14

R1 Ch2 (don’t count as a stitch), 7BLO T, 1TV, turn (9) Don’t count as a stitch =make first stitch
R2 Ch3 (don’t count as a stitch), 1 F, 6T, 1TW, turn (10) in the same stitch as the Ch created
R3 Ch2 (Count as a stitch), 9T, turn (10)
R4 Ch3 (Count as a stitch), 1F, 8T, turn (10) Count as a stitch =make first stitch in the
R5 Ch2 (Count as a stitch), 8T, skip last one, turn (9) next stitch as the Ch created
R6 Ch3 (Count as a stitch), 2F, 4T, skip 2, turn (7)
R7 Ch2 (Count as a stitch), 5T, skip 1, turn (6)
R8 Ch3 (Count as a stitch), 3F, skip 2, turn (4)
R9 Ch3 (Count as a stitch), 2F, skip 1, turn (3)
R10 Ch3 (Count as a stitch), 1F, skip 1 (2)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
You may use some yarn to correct the overall shape of the tail with few stitches (as on the picture).
Sew some glass beads or pearls to the tail for decoration.

Tail frill on the colour change

Find 2 middle stitches from the front on the last round of the tail (front part of the BLO round) and attach the dark
green yarn to the 1st stitch at the right of it. Crochet all around the colour change round as follows: 3dc in each stitch
until the second last 2 stiches. Leave the 2 middle stitches not processed. Fasten off and weave in the end.

You may also additionally sew the frill to the body in few places to make it better attached and better looking.

Sew a couple of white beads/ pearls below the green part.

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 12 of 14

Bra
First make 2 bra cups as below. Work in rows but start with a Magic Ring.

R1 Create a MR, make 4 Ch (count as a stitch) (9) Triple crochet how to (source: amigurumi.today)
and 8 Triple Crochet stitches, do not join; turn
R2 Ch1 (do not count as a stitch), 9X, turn (9)
Change colour to Dark Pink

R3 Ch1 (do not count as a stitch), 8X, skip last st (8)

Fasten off and weave in the ends. Close the Magic ring tight with a needle as shown on the picture. Ensure the
cup fits good on the doll. You can either sew the cups directly onto the body or continue and create a changeable
version of the swimsuit.

Now create the middle part of the bra.

R1 Ch 6, 5X in the ch starting from the 2nd ch, (5)

turn
R2 Ch1, 4X starting from the 2nd stitch, turn (4)
R3 Ch1, 3X starting from the 2nd stitch, turn (3)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew the parts together as shown on the pictures. Again, you may decide you leave it as it is and sew it to the body.
Third option is to take a 1m piece of pink yarn, fold it in two and attach to the cup as show on the picture leaving
an equal tail from each side, then create a chain from each side (around 25 ch) and make a knot on the end. This
way you can tie the swimsuit on the doll.

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 13 of 14

Headband
As long as the doll is not intended for the youngest children, create a ring from the silver aluminum wire; insert two
or more glass beads / pearls on it. Form the endings of the wire as below. Attach it on the head of Amelia.

You may alternatively chain a headband from dark pink yarn.

That’s it!
If you post a picture of your finished doll, please tag it with my name @luluandtete, you
can also use the hashtag #amelialuluandtete. Thank you!

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.
 Page 14 of 14

Appendix: techniques used in the project

V-shaped vs. X-shaped single crochet
For my patterns I am using the X-shaped single crochet which gives a nicer structure for the doll’s skin – also, the
holes are less visible. Please compare picture 1 (V-shaped) and picture 2 (X-shaped) to find out the difference on
how to crochet them.

Yarn over Yarn under

Invisible decrease
Hook the front loop only of the next stitch, then the next stitch (without yarning over) and finish it off as a normal
single crochet stitch.

“Invisible” colour change

One stitch before the planned colour change, finish it off (last step of creating the stitch) already with the new
colour.

Pattern by Lulu and Tete – All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (to sell or for free) over the internet or offline.