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The Mystery of Kohl

Aug. 13th, 2018 Send to Kindle

Kohl was and is still used in many celebrations such as weddings, special
initiations, and dances.  All members of the family might wear it — men, women,
and children.

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In Punjabi culture, surma is a traditional ceremonial dye, which predominantly

men of the Punjab wear around their eyes on special social or religious occasions.
It is usually applied by the wife or the mother of the person.

A Varanasi food seller with

his granddaughter wearing
kohl.

The Prophet Muhammed

used kohl and recommended
others to use it because he
believed that it was
beneficial for the eyes, and it
is used by Muslim men today
during Ramadan as a sign of devotion. Curiously, the Prophet used to apply kohl
to his right eye three times, and twice to his left eye. Tradition runs deep, as this
use of kohl began around 610 CE when Muhammed began teaching.

In the Wodaabe Tribe, men’s vanity reaches for new heights of beauty. The
Wodaabe tribe, who live in the Sahel, come together each year for arguably the
most intense beauty pageant in the world: the Wife-Stealing Festival. The men
(who are never seen without a mirror) wear special colors of makeup all over
their faces with white graphic designs, black lips, and lots of kohl eyeliner that
they each create.  All the men wear dresses and do a wild dance where their
liberally kohl-outlined eyes dart back and forth to attract women. Their goal is to
“steal” as many wives as possible and take them into the bush. The women are in
charge throughout the ceremony, for it is they who get to choose who they fancy
and can make off with as many husbands as they wish.  In this realm, kohl is
king…  or queen, depending on your point of view 😉

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PREPARATIONS, FORMULAE, AND HEALTH

CONCERNS
Currently, kohl is not considered safe in the U.S. These formulae are for
historical information only.

A very simple formula:

In rural Bengal, kajal (kohl) is made from the “Monosha” plant, a type of
succulent spurge (Euphorbia neriifolia). The leaf of Monosha is covered with oil
and is kept above a burning DIY mud lamp. Within minutes, the leaf is covered
with creamy, soft black soot which is so safe and sterile that it is even used on
infants.

In Afghanistan, women use a mixture of pounded antimony and almond oil to

make kohl. Antimony is believed to strengthen the eyes.

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Koh is still used in Ayurvedic medicine for healing, and in Southern India in
particular, women of the household prepare the kajal, adding various beneficial
herbs to the formula. Local tradition considers it to be a very good coolant for
the eyes. It is also used for eye infections and conjunctivitis, as a protectant from
the heat and glare of the sun in the desert, and shielding the eyes against dust
and sandstorms.

In the 18th Dynasty, Ancient Egyptian Queen Hastshepsut ground charred

frankincense into her kohl eyeliner.  In addition to preventing eye infections, this
formula kept the flies away which were the main cause of transmitted eye
disease. The Egyptians historically used sulfide of antimony rather than lead.

There is a lot of controversy about the safeness of various formulae of kohl. 

Much of this is being researched and still disputed today. It has been thought that
the traditional use of lead sulfide raises lead levels in the blood.  Others feel it is
non-harmful and even beneficial at low levels. I’m sure there are “safe” versions,
but research needs to continue to verify this. What is called “kohl” by U.S.
manufacturers in makeup is not the real thing, it’s merely lifting the name.

CONTEMPORARY CULTURE:

KOHL’S USE AND MYTH CONTINUES TODAY

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The film actress Theda Bara used kohl to rim her eyes throughout her career.  She
was thought of as one of cinema’s earliest sex symbols.  Her “femme fatale” roles
earned her the nickname The Vamp (short for vampire).  She made over 40
films.  Her eyes were her big feature.

Charlie Chaplin in “The Tramp” (1915) wore kohl for a “comical effect.’’

Rudolph Valentino, known as the “Great Lover” of the 1920’s, was masterful in
applying classic kohl pigment for his “vampy” heartthrob look.

Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richards attributes his use of kohl to the Semi-
nomadic tribes of North Africa, where he vacationed frequently in the late 1960’s.

In 1972 Mick Jagger wore kohl as he rocked the glamour look.  His slightly
effervescent cat eyes made his audience swoon.

Johnny Depp, as Jack Sparrow in the “Pirates of the Caribbean” films, wore kohl
around his eyes.

And nobody did makeup like Bowie.

Ziggy Stardust

View this wonderful tribute to David by Vogue Magazine:

http://www.vogue.com/tag/celebrity/david-bowie
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In the song “Miss Sarajevo” by U2, a line asks, “Is

there a time for kohl and lipstick? / a time for
curling hair / is there a time for High Street
shopping? / to find the right dress to wear.”

Edward Gorey wrote: “The Wanton, though she

knows its dangers / must needs smear kohl about
her eyes / and wake the interest of strangers / with
long-drawn, hoarse, erotic sighs.”

In 2009, fashion designer Tom Ford directed “A Single Man” and the character
Charley (Julianne Moore) wore kohl to prepare for her date.

So the myth and use of kohl continues today. Look around to see if you can spot
“kohl” users. Moi included:

REFERENCES
Kohl

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kohl_(cosmetics)

Bharatanatyama Dancers

http://www.culturalindia.net/indian-
dance/classical/bharatnatyam.html

Nubian Pots

http://www.louvre.fr/en/mediaimages/kohl-pot-form-nubian-porter-0

Wodaabe:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3149684/The-Wodaabe-wife-stealing-
festival-Stunning-images-world-s-vainest-tribe-men-dress-s-women-women-
husbands-please.html#ixzz4fmUwLAx7

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History: Men Wearing Eyeliner (& Kohl)

http://www.marieclaire.com/beauty/news/g3035/men-wearing-eyeliner-history/

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