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 Manual

Y JENSALES INC. WITHOUT THE AUTHORIZATION OF

CESSORS. J.I. CASE AND IT'S SUCCESSORS
FOR THE QUALITY OR ACCURACY OF THIS MANUAL.

MES CONTAINED AND USED HEREIN ARE THOSE OF OTHERS,

SCRIPTIVE SENSE TO REFER TO THE PRODUCTS OF OTHERS.
NOTES
 KEEP THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR REFERENCE

CASE
MANUAL
Instructions for
Operation .a11d Care of the

CASE
MODEL ·1 1 L11 TRACTOR

. TO CASE OWNEBS-
The more thoxough knowledge the owner has of his Tractor the better will
· be the results, and. the greater the profit from its use. It is the desire of the
J. L Case Co., that every Tractor should give the highest degree of service and
every effort is made toward insuring this service in the design and manufacture
of the Tractor. ··When it passes info the bands of the owner it passes largely be-
yond the control of the Company. This manual has been prepared with the pur-
pose of giving the owner as much knowledge•of the Implement as Tractor•. The
owner and particularly the operator is urged to read and study this manual and
to use good judgment. in the use and care of. his Tractor, and satisfactory service
· will follow.

J. I. ·CASE :COMPANY
· Racine, Wisconsin, U. S. A.
Form 521 S 7500 ELEVENTH EDmON
 J.LCASE - LA MODEL
EARLY IN TIIB 1940'S, THE TRACTOR COMPANIES BEGAN NOTING AN INCREASING
DEMAND FOR LARGER AND MORE POWERFUL TRACTORS.

BY TIIIS TIME, EQUIPMENT SUITABLE FOR ALMOST ALL FARM OPERATIONS WERE ON
THE MARKET.

EARLY HORSE DRAWN EQUIPMENT ADAPTED TO TIIB EARLIER TRACTORS WAS EfTIIER
DISCARDED OR WORN OUT. MOST FARMERS USUALLY BOUGHT A NEW TRACTOR WITII A
CULTIVATOR AND PLOW.

THEY HAD NO PLANS FOR FURTIIBR HORSE-DRAWN EQUIPMENT.

J.I.CASE BROUGHT OUT THE LA MODEL, A SUCCESSOR TO TIIB POPULAR L SERIES.

TIIIS TRACTOR WAS INTRODUCED IN 1940.

IT WAS EQUIPPED WITII A FOUR CYLINDER I HEAD ENGINE RATED AT 1,150 RPM. THIS
·· .· CASE ENGINE HAD A 403 CUBIC INCH DISPLACEMENT, WITII A 4-5/8 INCH BORE AND A 6
INCH STROKE. IT WAS CONSIDERED A 4 TO 5 PLOW TRACTOR, WEIGHING ABOUT 7,500
LBS., WTTII A 41 DRAWBARHORSEPOWER

THE BELT HORSEPOWER WAS RATED AT ABOUT 53. TIIB LA DELIVERED A FUEL
ECONOMY OF 11.7 HORSEPOWER HOURS PER GALLON OF GASOLINE.

THE LA WAS CONSIDERED ONE OF THE LARGER TRACTORS OF ITS TIME. IT LOOKED
HEAVY WITH FULL
FENDERS, A REAR PLATFORM, WIDE FRONT, 15 X 30 REAR TIRES AND EITHER 7.50 X 19 OR
7.50 X 20 FRONT TIRES. THE WHEELS WERE HEAVY CAST IRON.

THE RADIATOR COWLING WAS ALSO OF CAST IRON.

THE LA HAD THE CONVENTIONAL HAND CLUTCH, FOOT BRAKES, AND HAND BRAKE;
FOUR FORWARD SPEEDS OF 2-1/2, 3-1/3, 4-1/3, AND A l0MPHROAD GEAR

THE LA SERIES REMAINED IN PRODUCTION FROM 1940 WHEN 1203 UNITS WERE
PRODUCED UNTIL THE END OF 1952 WHEN 3200 WERE PRODUCED.

THROUGHOUT THIS 12 YEAR PERIOD THERE WERE 35,495 LA'S BUILT. THE HIGHEST
PRODUCTION YEAR WAS 1949 WITH OVER 7000 TRACTORS OF THIS MODEL.

IN TIIIS SERIES, CASE MADE THE LAI (INDUSTRIAL), LAH (HIGH CROP) AND A LS
(SPECIAL).

WHEN THIS TRACTOR WAS INTRODUCED IN 1940, SOUTH DAKOTA HAD A CENSUS
COUNT OF 44,154 TRACTORS ON FARMS.
 . . ~

J. I. CASE MODELL I,

In .1929. the J.· 1.· Case·

Threshing Machine . Co/
changed.its nameto, J. LCase · ·
Co. The change wastoreflect •
a
the fact that is was now full-....
line farm equipment
manufacturer. . • ·, · ·
This year also marked the
_introduction of the Case
Model· L tractor, to bealso
known as the 26--40. These
numbers represented the
drawbar and belt horsepower.
The engine was a four
cylinder 403 CID vertical equipped with rubber tires and size tractor.
valve-in-head. It had a three weighed 8,025 lbs. It is of · The "L" Case was phased
. bearing crankshaft and they interest to note that the out in 1940, with the
were babbit lined. The engine maximum load test was made introduction of the "D" series.
speed was rateq at 1100 on rubber and on steel. The "L" series was well
RPM, with a 4 5/8 inch bore Comparisons show that received by threshennen for
and a 6 inch stroke. Standard rubber tires pulled 4,474 lbs. its smooth operation on the
equipment · included a at 3.09 MPH; a slippage of belt. When the "L" was
Kingston carburetor and a 14.7 · percent with a total introduced in 1929 there were
Bosch magneto. · output of 36.8 horsepower. 47 tractor companies in
The Model L came with steel On steel the L guUed 4,472 business. By 1940 there were
wheels, wide front, hand lbs. at-. 2.6 MPH with . a about 40 companies.
clutch, swinging drawbaf; slippage of1L'.7.percent with Production ·of the 'Model L
belt pulley, and a powertake;.. a total output of ·31.6 numbered 31,608. This was a
off. The rear wheels had · AOrsepower. Fu~l economy good number considering the .
. wide, full fenders--that: ·_ is .was greater fop the rubber depression years of 1932-
. they ¢overed about J40 · tired modeL ......•.. _• _ _·. . 1933 when only 504tractors
degrees of the wheel. This · The Case -''L'i introduced a• of this model · were
ModelLweighed about5;300 .• new in-lineseries· of tractors · manufactured.
lbs.; and in the. Nebraslca and phased .•our the The "L" offered several other
· ·. speeds of 2 1/2, 31/4; and 4 · crossmountengin.e design. · models, such as "LI"·
MPH. · ' ·· The Case Model "L" was to·. (Industrial),. and "L" Special, ·
In 1938 an improved· model >be the ,design 'Plan for the ,·. but the total production of
of the "L" Was submitted for series . of C . Model Case the'se models was only about
testing. This tractor was Tractor which was a smaller 2,000 units. ·
 • SPECIAL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS •
1. Do Not Operate New Tractor On Full Load.·
No fine piece of machinery should ever be loaded to full capacity until it has
been run light for a reasonable length of time. FOR FIRST 50 HOURS
this tractor should be RUN AT HALF LOAD OR LESS BEFORE IT IS
PUT ON FULL LOAD.
2. Never get off or on tractor while it is in motion.
3. When the power take-off is used, be absolutely sure the standard
adapter guard furnished with the tractor, is in place. · It should be un-
derstood this guard in itself is not sufficient to prevent clothing being
caught by universal jo,nt or revolving shaft. It is a standardized guard
and will fit to a telescoping shield which should be furnished with all
power take-off driven machines.
NOTE: IT IS EQUALLY IMPORTANT THAT THE TELESCOPING SHIELDS ON THE
POWERTAKE-OFFMACHINE, WHICHATTACHTO THESTANDARDADAPT-
ER GUARD ARE IN PLACE. IF POWER TAKE-OFF DRIVEN MACHINES ARE
RECEIVED WITHOUT THESE SHIELDS, SEE THE NEAREST CASE DEALER
ORBRANCH, PROVIDING IT IS A CASE POWER TAKE-OFF DRIVEN
MACHINE. IF OTHER THAN A CASE, SEE THE DEALER HANDLING SAID
MACHINE OR THE NEAREST BRANCH REPRESENTING SAME.
NOTE: IF A. POWER TAKE-OFF EQUIPPED TRACTOR IS DELIVERED WITHOUT
THE STANDARD· ADAPTER GUARD THEN APPLY TO YOUR NEAREST
CASE DEALER OR BRANCH HOUSE FOR SAID GUARD.
4. When cranking an engine the handle of the crank should be pulled upward
with the left hand so the operator's hand will be in a position to avoid being
struck by the starting crank if there is a reversal of the direction of the en-
gine from any cause whatsoever.
S. When starting any tractor do not engage the clutch quickly. Always engage
clutch gradually so the engine will pick up the load slowly. This is particularly
necessary when the tractor is going up a steep hill, climbing out of ditches
or when hitched to some heavy or difficult load. Never hitch a tractor to a
stump or other object by means of a long chain or rope with slack so that
when the tractor moves forward it will jerk into the load.
6. When working on steep side hills, any tractor may tip over sideways, es-
pecially when the lower side strikes a hollow or hole or ditch. The center
of gravity on Case tractors is low and they are especially stable; but when
operating under unusual conditions they must be operated with reasonable
care.
7. When going up a steep hill or climbing out of a ditch or gully, any tractor
is liable to raise its front wheels off of the ground, if the full power is sudden-
. ly applied or by quickly engaging the clutch.· Under such conditions the
momentum of the flywheel adds to the power of the engine, and to
avoid possibility of danger under these conditions the operator should keep
his hand on the clutch lever, (or foot on the clutch pedal if foot clutch is used)
engaging the power of the engine slowly and be prepared at all times to dis-
engage the clutch promptly should the front wheels raise off the ground.
The same precautions must be taken if the tractor becomes mired down by
being driven into a soft bog 0r a mud hole or ditch.
8. Read Instruction Book Carefully.
The paragraphs of the following printed instructions are numbered in the
order that the different operations should be done. Numbers on the illustra•
tions correspond with the para.graph numbers and in many cases the parts
referred to in the instructions are shaded or emphasized on the illustration
so that the directions can be easily followed.
9. Ordering Parts.
When ordering parts be sure to give Serial Number and Model of tractor
and name a!ld number of Part Ordered.
2
 Fig. No. PaaeNo.
Air Clea.ner •..••.. • .. ~ .• -••..•••••..•.•..._•••••••·•••••••. -• •.••••• 3. 13 7,24,25
Air Vent Holes .................................. : •••••••••••••• 3 1
Bearings, Taking Play out of ...••.•...•••.••.•..•••••••.••••••• 20 35,36
Bearings, Front Wheel Lubrication .•••••••••••.••.•••••.••••••••• 6 13,18
Belt Pulley Shaft .•...•••...•••.•.•••••••••••••••••.••••••••••• 31 47,48
Beve! Gea.rs, Adjusting .......................................... . 31, 32 47, .48
Brake, Pulley .•...•.•••••.••.••.•..•••••••••.•-••••••••• ·••••••. 16 29
Brake, Foot .................................................. . 26 42
Carburetor .•....•..••......••.....•••••••••.•.••••.•••..•••.. 11 21, 22
Choke ..••....••••.......••...•••..•...••••••.••...••....••••• 3 7, 9
Clutch •...•..•.••....••..•.•••..••.•...••••••••..•••••.••.••• 27, 28, 29, 30 42 to4t5
Clutch, Adjusting ...•......•••••••...•....••.••..••..•.••.••.. 27, 28 43, 44
Clutch Housing Drain P!ug •••••.•.•.•...•••••••••...••.•.••••.. 3 7, 14
Cold Weather Operation ............•............••.••••••..•. 15, 23, 24
Crankcase Breather .•••....•.••....••.•.••••••.••••.••....••••. 8 16
Crankca.se -Filling ••.•••.••_.•.••..••••••.•••••_••••••••..••••• ~ •.. 6 13, 14
Cranking Engine ..•.........••.••..•••. ·•.•••.•••.••• ·.••••••••• 9
Cylinder Barrels, Replacing .•••••••••••..•••••••••.•••.•••••••••. 19 32,33,34
Differential Shaft ...•.•..•..•••••..••.•.•..••.•.•...••••.••.••• 34 __._ 50
I,rag Link ..•........•.....•.•..•...•...••••••.•••.•...•••.• ~ . 21 36, 37
Drive Chains .••.....•.•...•.• ; ..•.....• ·•.••.••..•••..••.•.•.• 35 50, 51
Engine. Running in New .•.•.....•..•....•..•.•... ~ ....•••..••• 5 to 12
Engine, Starting .............••..••.•....•..••..•.•....••.•.•.. 8, 9
Fan .... ..................................................... . 15 27, 28
Firing Order ................••.....•....•.••...•.........•. ~ •• 30
Front Wheel Bearings Adjustment .•••.•..•.••••••...•.•..•..•.• 22 37, 38
Fuel Tanks ..•............•.....••...•..•••••.....•..•••••...• 3 7, 8
Fuel Strainer •••...•.•....••..•.•..•••....••••••......•..••••. 3 7, 8
Gears, Shifting ••.•••.•.•..••.••.•.•..••..••••....••.•.••.••.••. 5 10
Governor •..•...........•..•••..•...•....•••••....•.•...••••.• 14 26
Hitch and Power Take-off..••..•.•....••••...••••••.••••• ·•.•••• 37 54, 55
King_ Pi~s ..•.••.•.•. .- •••••••••..•••... _..•.•••••.....•.••.••.• 21 36, 37
Lubncat1on .•.••..•...••..•••••••••• _.•••.•••••••.••••• -. •••.••• 6 7, 13, 14
Lugs ...........................................• ...........•••... 1 5, 61
Magneto (See Magneto Manual); ••..••.•..•.••••.••••••.•..••••• 20
Maoifold Damper :Lever •.•..•••.••.•.•..••••• ~ .••••••.•••••••. 3. 4 7, 9, 10, 12
Oil, Crankca..se. • ••.•..•••..••.•••••.••.•..••••••.•••.••••••••••• 14
Oil, Tta.nsmission ••••.•••.•••..•••••••.••.••••••.••••••••••••••. 6 13, 17
Oil Pump Screen . • • • . • . • . • . • • • • . • • • • . • . . • • ·• • . • • • • • • • . • . . • • • • • • 1 15, 16
Piston Pin • • . • . . . • . • • . • • . . . • . . . • • • . • •.• ··. • . . • • • • • . • • . • . . • • . • . • . • 36
Pulley, Belt •• ; ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••.••••••••• 16 29
·Power Take-Off •••...•• ; •••••••••••••••••.••••••••••••••••••••• 36,37 52, 53, 54, 55
Radiator' Curtain .•.......•..••.• ~ .••.•.••.•..•.•.•...••••..••• 12 23
Radiator Screen •.•..·•..••.••••••••.• • • • . . • • • • . • • • • • • • • . • • : •••• 12 23
Rear Axle Bearing Adjustment ••.••.••.•.••••••..•.•••.. ~ ••••••. 24,25 39, 40, 41, 42
Rubber Tire Equipment .......••..•••••..•.•.•••••.. ; •••••••• 6, 56, 57
Service Suggestions ...•••..•••.••••••••• -••••.•..•...• ; ••••••• 58,59~60
Skid Rin_ga ••••••.•.•••••.•••••••••••.•••••••••••• -~ •••••.••••• 6, 61
Sliding Gear Shaft •••..• : .••••.....•....•....••••••..• ~ .•.••••• 33 47, 49
Spark Pluga .•••.•........••••••••.•.• ~ •••..••.••••••••...••.• 10 s, to
Special Groutera and Rims .................................... . 61
Speeds, Transmission ••••••••••.•••••..••••••.••...•...••.•.•••• 5 10
Steerin~ Gear ..........•.••.......•.... .;-.............•.•..•••• 23 38
Tightening Drive Wheels ••..•.•••.•••••.. , . , •.••.•••..••.•••••• -24,25 39, 40, 41, 42
Tractor, Splitting .•••.•.....••..••...••.••.•......••....•••••... 29,30 44, 45, 46
Tractor? S~arting ........•...••...•••..•.•.•••.•...••..•••.•.•. 4,5 9, 10
Tran1m1ss100 .•••••••••••••••••••••••••••.•.•••••.•.••••••••••• 31 to 34 47 to 50
Valve Adjustments .•.••••..•••••.••.••••••.•.•••••••.••••••... 17 30
Valve Rockers, Oiling ••.••••••••••••••..••••••••••••••••••••••• 9 17
Valve Toola .•.••.••.••..•••••.•••.••••.•••••••••••.•••••.••••• 18 31,32
Valve Reconditioning .••...••.•••.•..•..••••.•.•.••••••••••.••• 18 31, 32
Valves, Timing ..••..•••.•••••••••••••••••.••••••••••..•••••••• 17 30
Water Capacity •••..•..•..•••.••.•••..•••.••..•........••.••••• 8
Wattt Pump .................................................. . 15 27,28
Wheel Weights •••••.•••• • •••••••.•••••••••••••.•.•••.••••••• 56

3
 .
:J.

4
 PREPARING A NEW TRACTOR FOR USE
NOTE: The paragraphs of the following instructions are numbered
and . in many cases the paragraph numbers correspond with numbers
on the illustrations and also the parts referred to in the instructions
_are shaded or emphasized on the illustrations so that the directions can
be easily followed. -
It is the desire of the J. I. Case Co. that every tractor should be delivered
not only mechanically perfect but as clean in appearance as.the day it was shipped
from the factory. When possible, box-cars will be used in making shipmenta
and at times this requires the removal of some parts from the tractor to save
space in loading. Put these parts on fastening securely. using lock washers on
all bolts.
Lugs
, The steel spade lugs 5 inches high as shown on illustration on page 4 are
regularly furnished. These lugs meet all usual conditions.
Fig. 1. If the soil is of a light sandy character and the tractor is loaded
- near capacity, it is desirable to use special equipment consisting
of cast sand lugs 6° high which are illustrated -in Fig. 1. These
lugs are also. good when a tractor is pulling disc harrows or seeding
machines on plowed ground. Note that the slanting face of
lugs is toward the rear when lugs are in contact with
ground.

Fig. t. Spade Lug Equipment

Steel spade lugs of the same shape as the regular lugs but
6 inches high can also be furnished as special equipment.
Use lock washers on bolts attaching lugs to the wheels and
tighten all lug bolts again after a few hours use.
Slippage of drive wheels may occur even when the correct
lugs are used. Soil that is wet or soggy should not be worked
until it dries out. on top. Slippage in starting a load can often be
prevented by care in operating clutch and throttle. The use of
wheel scrapers will eliminate slippage if soil builds up between lugs.
These tractors are so powerful that slippage may occur
because of overload and sometimes can be eliminated by running
at a higher speed with less load.
Extension Rims.
The regular spade lugs will do splendid work on plowed ground for discing
or seeding when extension rims are used. Best results are obtained by using a
i
lug in every other space on the outer row on the wheel and on the extension rim.
The full number of lugs are used on the inner row on the wheel. This arrange-
ment allows greater space between the lugs and prevents clogging ..
Refer to page 61 for a list of special lugs and rim equipment.
Skid Rings.
1. Fig. 2. It is important that the skid rings for the front wheels be put on.
with the vertical flange of skid ring toward the inside of the wheel
as shown at 1, Fig. 2.
Rubber Tires.
Tire equipment has been designed for this tractor and can be secured through
your riearest Case dealer. For the front wheels use 7.50x20 with a pressure of
28 pounds, and for the rear wheels, use 12.75x28 or 13.50x28 with a pressure
of 12 pounds.
. NOTE, When rubber tire equipped tractors leave the factory, all tires
are inflated to a pressure of from 25 to 30 pounds. This is done to prevent
bouncing action of the tractor in shipment. Before using tractor be sure
to check all tire inflations and see that front wheels have 28 pounds pres-
sure. and rear wheels 12 pounds pressure. ·
To obtain best results keep your tires properly inflated at all times. Under
inflation is damaging to side wall fabrics as well, as there is danger of tires slipping
on rims.
Safety First.
When operating a fully rubber tire equipped tractor; either on the belt or
in the field, a chain should be fastened to draw bar or other suitable place on trac-
6
 ---©

\
CLUTCH' HOUSING
DRAIN PLUG

Fig. 3 L. H. Side of Case Model "L" Tractor

to~- and sufficiently long for other:end to touch:the ground.J: By the use of such a
chain all danger of static electricity will be overcome. If tractor is operated with-
out some proper ground there is danger of fire being started from the static dis-
charge.
Inspection.
2. Inspect tractor carefully to make sure that nothing has become
loose or has been broken or damaged in shipment. Remove
cinders, dirt or paint where it might cause parts to bind.
3. Fig. 3. Make sure that air vent holes in caps of fuel tanks are open.·
4. Work the clutch lever to see that clutch does not stick and that
pulley brake shoe does not bind on belt pulley and that both en-
gage properly when operated. For detailed instructions refer to
Figs. 16, 27 and 28.
Lubrication of New Tractor.
s. Check over the lubrication of the entire tractor following Fig. 6 and
according to instructions given on pages 14 to 19 before starting a
new tractor.
Tractors are shipped from the factory without oil in the
crankcase. Before a new engine is started!in warm weather,
three gallon~of a goodJgrade of oil having a body of SAE No. 10
should be put in the crankcase. Before a new engine is started
in cool weather, threeigallonsfof a good grade of oil having a
body of lOW should be~putjn the crankcase. In addition to this,
for the running-in period add one pint of light oil to each five
· gallons of fuel for the first ~fifty_f hours. After engine has been
properly run in, discontinue,ithe,!use~of light oil in the fuel, but
continue to use,..the light oil in the~crankcase in cold weather. For
further information on lubrication see the instructions on Page 14.
'1
 The practice of starting up an engine for the purpose of
unloading, or to run only a short distance before the crank-
cas~ is filled to the correct level with a good grade of S. A. E.
No. 10 engine oil and the correct amount of water in the
radiator, will result in damage to the engine. We will not
be responsible for damage occurring when instructions in
the Case Tractor Manual are not complied with.
In any new engine, during shipment, or when allowed to stand,
without being started, for a considerable length of time, it permits
the oil to drain from the interior parts of engine. These parts are
liable to sweat or rust, and may seize when the tractor is started up
before the parts obtain sufficient lubrication. This applies par..
ticularly in cold weather. ·
We recommend that before starting up new tractors that the
inspection plate located on the side of crankcase should be removed
and the interior of the engine well oiled by means of a squirt can
or a brush. ·
Particular attention should be given to the upper bearing of
oil pump and the spiral gear on camshaft which drives the oil
pump. These parts should be flooded with oil.

STARTING A NEW TRACTOR

Water
6. Fig. 3. Fill the radiator with clean soft water (capacity 12½ U.S. gallons).
It is very important to use clean water for cooling. When
dirty water is used it will cause clogging and hinder the proper
circulation of water, which will result in overheating and loss of
power. Dirty water from a slough or ditch should not be used.
Also, when the water is too hard it wlll cause deposits to form in
. the radiator tubes and the engine water jackets, which will also
cause the engine to overheat.
Fuel
7. Fig. 3. Shut off the valve at gasoline tank and at valve strainer.
8. Fig. 3. Remove glass strainer bowl and clean the screen.
9. Fig. 3. Fill the rear tank with gasoline (capacity 3½ U. S. gallons) and
the front tank with the kind of fuel to be used (capacity 26 U. S.
· gallons) ,
10. Fig. 3. Open the drain cock at side of carburetor and open the valve on
the gasoline tank. Allow enough gasoline to run through the
bowl so as to clean out both the fuel line and the carburetor bowl
before the drain cock at the carburetor is closed.
Important: In stopping engine turn off the low cost fuel and drain the car-
buretor bowl or turn to gasoline a few minutes before stopping so
that the carburetor will contain only gasoline.
Spark.Plugs.
11. Fig. 2. · Pour a small quantity of light oil into each cylinder through the
spark plug holes and .crank engine enough to allow this oil to
lubricate the cylinder walls.
Adjust the spark plug points by bending outer electrode to
a gap of .020 which is slightly more than 1/64 inch and put them
in place using the copper asbestos gaskets furnished. Never at-
tempt to bend center electrode.

8
Air Cleaner.
12. Fig. 3. Use an oil having a viscosity of S. A. E. No. 10, or the same
oil that is put into the engine crankcase. However, if the
engine is started when the weather is quite cool then it may be
necessary to thin out the S. A. E. No. 10 oil with a slight amount
·of kerosene. Refer to the instructions under Fig. 13 for com_.
plete care of the air cleaner.
To Start Engine.
13. · Open the carburetor main jet adjusting needle (2) Fig. 11, 1½
turns counterclockwise from closed position.
14. Fig. 4. Set the spark lever (14) in full retard position which is forward.
Then advance it just enough to b~ free of the grounding position
. when starting.
15. When starting be sure that the spark lever (14), Fig. 4, is not
advanced any more than the slight amount necessary to free the
magneto from the grounding position.
16. Set throttle lever (15), Fig. 4, at about mid-position. Pulling back
on the throttle lever opens the throttle and feeds a heavier charge
to the engine.
17. Fig~ 3. . Hold choke rod out for one or two turns of starting crank. Release
choke rod immediately after engine starts.
NOTE: When cranking an engine the handle of the crank should
be pulled upward using the left hand and the choke is then easily
accessible for the right hand. The operator's cranking hand will
be in a position to avoid being struck by the starting crank if
there is a reversal of the direction of rotation of the engine from
any cause whatsoever.
18. When engine starts, set spark lever in full advance position.
19. Set throttle lever so that engine runs about half normal speed
and adjust the carburetor needle valve until engine runs free and
snappy.
20. When operating with gasoline for fuel, set the manifold damper
lever 26. Fig. 4 on cold position (marked "C"). This position is
satisfactory for gasoline, except in cold weather when operating
with a light load, set this damper lever in an intermediate position.
In extreme cold weather when on light load, it will be advisable
to use all the. heat from the manifold by setting the damper lever
26 Fig. 4 in the hot position marked "H". This is identical .to
the low cost fuel adjustment.
21. Do not turn on low cost fuel until the temperature of water in
radiator is from 180°F to 200°F. or just below boiling. Read in
structions on page 23 for controlling engine temperature.

Important-Running In A New Engine.

22. No fine piece of machinery should ever be loaded to full capacity
until it has been run light for a reasonable length of time.
23. · For first 50 hours this tractor should be oiled and run at half
load or less before it is put on full load.
To Start Tractor.
24. Fig. 4. With the engine' running, push forward on clutch lever until it
stops rotation of belt pulley and then move gear shift lever to the
position for speed desired. Pull the clutch lever back gradually

9
 - - l
Fig. 4 Operating Controls

until it snaps into full engagement and do not pull on

lever after the clutch is fully engaged. The gear
shift lever should be in neutral position when
starting engine or when running idle in order
to prevent accidents in case clutch is accident-
ly engaged.
25. Any speed may be selected but the tractor must
,.,,,,.- - .... - be stopped before gears can be shifted. The positions
I \
I of gear shift lever for different speeds are shown on
Fig. 5 and the transmission cover is also plainly
marked.
The road speeds at normal engine speed of 1100
R.P.M. and with the standard gears are:-
I
,..l,
Low gear 2½ miles per hour
Intermediate gear 3 ¼ miles per hour
"R'
;
,_.,,
\
\
I High gear
Reverse gear
4 miles per hour
2¾ miles per hour
Fig. 5. Gear Shift.

10
The Use of Different Fuels.
It is most important that the right kinds of fuel be used. Any internal
combustion. engine of the conventional type, or of the Diesel type, will only give
satisfactory and best performance by using the right kind of fuel. Not only must
the fuel be furnished to a certain specification but it must be clean fuel. The best
fuel will give trouble if it contains a large percentage of dirt or foreign
ingredients, or water. It is always important to purchase fuel oil from
old reliable and ·established oil companies, as they take special precau-
tions to supply fuel oils that are made to certain specifications and so
maintained. · A great many of the smaller oil companies do not use sufficient
precaution to maintain uniformity of their products, and this results in variable
engine performance. Their fuels also vary in cleanliness. ·
While it is possible to give certain specifications for satisfactory fuels to use
in internal combustion engines, the best criterion is that given by the results of
actual use in an engine.
CASE Tractors will operate successfully not only on gasoline but on
many other low cost fuels. Any low cost fuel of the following specifications
will operate in CASE engines, and all of the well known oil companies can fur-
nish fuel oil to these specifications.
Distillation Range-
Initial Boiling Point 358° F.
10% 388° F.
SO% 425° F.
90% 472° F.
Maximum or End Point 505° F.
Residue Trace
Gravity-
(Specific) .•83
(A. P. I. or Baume') 39°
Octane Number 30 to 40
Sulphur .0015
Flash Point 155° F.
The following precautions should be observed when operating with the prin-
cipal kinds of fuels now available for tractor use.
Gasoline
When gasoline is used for operating CASE tractors better results will
be obtained without the use of the manifold shield. The lever 26, figure 6,
connected to the damper located in· the manifold should be placed in "Cold"
position. In cold weather the best results are obtained with the lever in mid
position, and in very cold weathei- when the temperature is down to Zei-o, and the
engine is used for doing light work, it would be advantageous to use the manifold
shield so as to keep the fan blast away from the inlet manifold.
Kerosene.
At one time kerosene was the type of low cost fuel mostly used for tractor
engines, but now it is found that much better results can be obtained by the use
of a good grade of distillate, or what is now termed "Tractor Fuel". There are
some localities, however, where kerosene is still used. The main difficulty in
operating with kerosene is on account of its very low Octane rating, which causes
the engine, especially at the heavier loads, to pre-ignite and cause what is termed
"pinging". However, as stated CASE Tractors can be operated on kerosene of a
fairly good grade if the following instructions are followed.
11
 On kerosene, as well as other low cost fuels, it is necessary to use gasoline
for starting. Unless the atmospheric temperature is extremely high, the dam-
per lever should be set in "Hot" position. Unless the weather is extremely
cold the thermostat will keep the cooling water at the proper temperature to
obtain good results.
Distillate, Furnace Oil, Tractor Fuel.
These fuels can all be listed under the one heading. However, the term
"Distillate" is applied to a wide variety of fuels which rate below what are now
generally sold as tractor fuels. There are fuels sold under the name of Distillate
which are comparable in composition to tractor fuels; however, if these low cost
fuels comply with the specifications given herein they will give satisfactory per-
formance in CASE tractors. -

· Operating Suggestions
Attention should be given to the following precautions.
A. · The engine should be started on gasoline and allowed to operate for a
few minutes until the water in the radiator reaches a temperature of
178° to 200° F. This can be done by raising the radiator curtain.
B. If your Model "L" Tractor is not already equipped with a temperature
gauge, a motometer or thermometer may be obtained from your local
dealer or the closest Case Company branch.
C. If the engine is not equipped with a thermostat between the engine and
top radiator tank, such a thermostat adjusted to the correct temperature
range can be secured from the Company under 1298-AA.
D. Ordinarily the manifold damper lever 26 Fig. 4 should be set in the hot
position and left there, however, if an engine appears to be running too
warm and shows a loss of horsepower it indicates too much heat on the
manifold, and this damper lever should be adjusted to a colder position,
such as ;,~, ½or¼ position from the (C) or cold position. This large-
ly depends on the fuel, load and weather temperatures. ·
NOTE: In the event your tractor is not equipped with damper
lever, and a change in the damper setting is required, it will be
necessary to remove shield shown in Fig. 3 by removing the two
cap screws. ·Then set damper to desired position and fasten
shield securely back in place.
E. Metal cover or shield shown in, Fig. 3 is to prevent undue cooling of the
manifold by the air blast caused by the radiator fan. In the event your
tractor is not equipped with a shield same can be secured from your local
dealer, or the closest Case Company branch under number 1392-AA.
If when operating at full or nearly full ,load ;n warm weather the en-
gine appears to be running too warm or showing a lack of horsepower, it
may be due to too much heat on the manifold in which case it will be
advisable to remove the manifold shield.
With these precautions the engine will run cooler and will develop
more horsepower and give better results in actual fuel economy.

Purchase Fuels from Reliable Producers.

The principal oil companies can furnish fuel of the same general specifications
as described herein, and of standard and uniform quality. It will be found how-
ever that certain fuels in certain localities will not come within the specifications
required, and perhaps will not be sufficiently clean· or free from sediment and
water to be used successfully. These conditions can be easily avoided by pur-
chasing from reliable producers.

12
 \, I I I
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ft I
I I ts '
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11
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----'-",
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I I ...._
I J
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f-....J...-
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Fig. 6 Lubrication Chart

13
 OPERATION AND ADJUSTMENT
OIL RECOMMENDATIONS
Engine Transmission·
Body Body
of Oil Temperature - of Oil Temperature
SAE 30 90° F and up SAE 140 32° and above
SAE 20 +32° to +90° F SAE 90 Below 32° F
20-W +10° to +32° F
10-W -10° +
to 10° F
CAUTION: IF THE ENGINE IS T0 BE OPERATED UNDER A CONSTANT HEAVY
LOAD OVER LONG PERIODS IN COLD WEATHER DO NOT USE THE
LIGHT 10-W OIL BUT USE THE NEXT HEAVIER BODY OIL.
WE ALSO RECOMMEND THAT IF THE ENGINE IS BEING OPERATED
ON LOW COST FUEL OR A CONSTANT HEAVY LOAD IN WARM
WEATHER, START USING SAE 30 OIL AT A TEMPERATURE OF 65°
F. INSTEAD OF STARTING AT 90° F.
In cold weather it is important that the oil has a low pour point or cold test,
so that it will flow freely through the screen of the oil pump and permit
easy cranking when starting. A simple method of checking this is to remove
lower level plug and see if the oil flows freely.
Crankcase Oil. Refer to A Fig. 6
Only the best grade of well refined oil of the proper body should be used in
the Case Model "L" Tractor. The best assurance of getting this quality oil is
to purchase it from a reliable oil dealer in your home community, or from a
reputable oil company.
Do not use a heavier oil than the above recommended nor one that is
poorly refined, as such oils cause gumming of valves and pistons and its use re-
sults in loss of compression and possible damage, such as scored cylinders or
burned out bearings. . ·
When Distillate, Furnace, or Tractor Fuel is Used.
After every 10 hours of operation remove lower level plug and allow oil to
drain to this level. Add new oil through filler opening on the governor housing
(shown in Fig. 2) to bring to level of upper plug. After 90 hours of operation
remove the crankcase drain plug (shown in Fig. 2) and drain all oil out of crank-
. case. Then fill th~ crankcase with 3 gallons of new oil to the upper level plug
through the filler opening in the governor housing.
When Gasoline is Used.
_r.After every 30 hours of operation remove lower level plug and allow oil to
drain to this level. Add new oil through filler opening on the governor housing
(shown in Fig. 2) to bring to level of upper plug. After 120 hours of operation
remove the crankcase drain plug (shown in Fig. 2) and drain all oil out of crank-
case. Then fill the crankcase with 3 gallons of new oil to the upper level plug
through the filler opening in the governor housing.
Refer to Fig. 2 and note location of the two oil level plugs for the purpose
of testing oil level and partial drain-off of oil. The oil level should be maintain-
ed to the level of the top plug. The top plug is what is known as the correct
level plug. However no difficulty will be experienced if the engine is operated
with the level slightly below this top level, but under no circumstances should
it be operated if the oil level is below the lower plug.
Oil from the crankcase is constantly circulating through the clutch housing
and a small amount of oil is retained in the clutch housing when the engine is
stopped. The clutch housing drain plug-See Figure 3-should be removed and
the clutch housing drained at the same time that crankcase is drained. Make
sure that the plug is put back and screwed up tight after draining.
14
 Caution-To remove the oil pan for cleaning it is necessary to drop
the radius rod and remove the screen from around the oil pump before
hand. Refer to Fig. 7 and instructions as follows:-
Water in Crankcase.
When operating tractor in cold weather condensation may form in the crank-
case, and ff left there it would freeze in the bottom of the crankcase and on screen
of oil pump which in turn would rob the bearing of oil and might result in being
burned out.
To avoid any danger along this line it is advisable to loosen the oil pan drain
plug daily after the tractor has been standing a couple of hours and see if it con-
tains any water. It is not necessary to remove the drain plug, simply back it up
until but one or two threads are holding and if crankcase contains water it will
drain out.
=--__'::1§¥-~===- ---7'rrn'~==-~'Fi='i?
,.._.:;.-

----- - - - - - - - ...._u u_u LU

.......... muutJmlf1/Jlllf111/IIJII/IJ// .' /,

.Fig. 7 Cleaning Oil Pump Screen

Oil Pump and Screen-.Refer to B Fig. 6, also to Fig. 7.

1. Fig. 7. About every thirty days of operation it is advisable to remove
the oil pump screen and clean thoroughly.
2. Fig. 7. To take out screen remove the three cap screws and this will allow
withdrawal of the screen and cap as a unit. Be careful to avoid
·damage to gasket under the cap or to the screen.
3. Fig. 7. Rinse the screen in a pail of gasoline to remove all dirt, water or
other foreign matter. A dirty screen will not allow oil to flow to
the pump intake and the oil gauge will not show pressure and burnt
out bearings will surely result. ·
4. To remove oil pump (after screen and oil pan are taken off) dis-
connect oil line connection and remove one cap screw holding
pump flange to crank case. The pump can then be taken out as
a unit. To inspect pump gears remove the bottom plate from
pump.
If it is necessary to replace any part of the oil pump, remove
cover and oil pump gear without key way 01183-AB. Then re-
move oil pump gear with key way 01184-AB by driving shaft
upward through the gear. Remove key and the oil pump drive
shaft will then slide upward out of bearings. The oil pump shaft
gear 01178-AB is keyed and pinned on with a straight pin. Do
not remove this gear from shaft unless it is to be replaced.
15
 Oil Pressure.
1. The oil pump is equipped with a non-adjustable relief. · This re-
lief is set to show 35 to 40 pounds pressure on the oil pressure
gauge shown at 27, Fig. 4 when the oil and the bearings are in
good condition. · ·
2. With· continued use of the engine the pressure will gradually be-
come less due to the wear that takes place in the bearings, but it
should never be allowed to go below ten pounds at normal engine
speed without investigating the cause and correcting it. The fol ..
lowing is a list of causes, one or more of which might lead to tack·
of necessary oil pressure:
1. Dirty oil pump screen.
2. Condensation of water in crank case and freezing around the
screen when operating in cold weather.
3. Lack of oil.
4. Oil too heavy to flow.
5. Broken oil lines.
6. Broken pump parts.
7. Loose bearings.

CD \
\
, .,,,.-- ------ - -
I

I
.I
I
I
I
I
I ,

©
Fig. 8. Crankcase Breather, Located on Valve Cover.

· Crank Case Breather, Screen Type-Refer to Fig. 8, also to D, Fig. 6.

1. The crank case breather located on outside of cylinder head cover
requires very little attention. It is recommended that when
operating tractor in dusty conditions that an examination be made
about every 3 or 4 weeks to see that all screens are clean and that
breather is operating freely.
2. To clean screens 1, Fig. 8, remove the two cap screws 2, Fig. 8
holding the air horn. Wash entire air horn assembly in gasoline
until all dirt and sediment is removed. ·
3. If the· breathing action at this point is restricted, ~ressure:.is
built up in the cylinder block and causes oil leaks to occur and
prevents oil vapor from reaching the upper valve mechanism re-
sulting in sticking valves.

16
 Fig. 9. Pressure Oiling To Valve Rocker Arms

Oiling Valve Rocker Arms and Governor Parts-Refer to E, Fig. 6, also to

. Fig. 9.
1. Tubing is provided from the pressure oiling system to oil the
valve rocker arms, valves and valve guides and also the governor
and front end gears. -
Ail an extra precaution the valve cover should be removed every
two or three weeks and kerosene squirted around the valve stems
while the engine is running. Then oil all valve mechanism with
fresh light oil.
Transmission-Refer to F, Fig. 6.
· Before starting a new tractor make sure that transmission is filled
to height of filler spout on rear transmission cover as shown on Fig. 4.
If the tractor is to be used in cold weather it will be necessary to
drain 3 to 4 gallons of the S. A. E. 140 oil from the transmission case and
replace it with an equal amount of a good grade of 10-W oil having
a low .cold test, which will dilute the S. A. E. 140 oil sufficiently· for it
to remain fluid in cold weather, and thereby overcome any difficulty of the
transmission gears or chains channeling in the lubrication.
- In cold weather, if one does not wish to dilute the S. A. E.140 trans-
mission oil, use a good grade of S. A. E. 90 oil.
Once a year the transmission should be drained, flushed and refilled
with a high quality S. A. E. 140 oil. This change can best be made each
spring. ·_
.. The transmission bearings will be destroyed if tractor is operated
on belt work without sufficient oil or if operated in cold weather with an
oil that will not flow.
If tractor is not setting level when doing belt work, additional oil
should be added to transmission to compensate for angle at which trac-
tor is placed. ·
Water Pump-Refer to G.-Fig. 6.
To properly lubricate the pump, it is essential to use a special water pump
grease, one that will not become fluid at high water temperature. Most reliable
lubricating firms supply a grease suitable for water pumps.

17
 The grease cup should be turned down one tum every half day when
stopped at noon, and at the end of the days run, or when tractor is to
remain idle. Never replace cup with pressure oiling fitting.
NOTE: Lubricant for Use at Points Provided with Pressure Fittings.
Use a high grade pressure gun lubricant or heavy oil in warm weather
and in cold weather a special light lubricant, or an oil almost as Hght
as crankcase oil, at all points lubricated through pressure fittings.

Front Wheel Bearings-Refer to H, Fig. 6. "'

The front wheel bearings should be well packed with grease when starting
out a new tractor. The hubs are packed with grease at the factory and under
average conditions lubricant should be added through the pressure fittings
every 30 hours if the tractor is being used for field work.
, Steering Spindle King Pins-Refer to I, Fig. 6.
A reservoir in .each steering spindle provides for lubricating the steering
spindle king pins. A pressure oiling fitting is provided in the cap and should re-
ceive attention daily. In cold weather a light lubricant should be used, as the
heavy lubricant will not flow. Do not use grease. ·
Drag Link-Refer to J, Fig. 6.
Pressure gun lubricant should be added through the pressure fittings at each
end of the drag link every week or 60 hours of operation.
Rear Axle Bearings-Refer to K, Fig. 6.
Keep grease cups filled and turn down once a day. Do not remove the grease
cups and replace them with oil pressure fittings. Grease at this point forms a
seal to prevent the transmission oil from leaking out through the rear axle
bearings, therefore ample quantity of hard cup grease should be used.

Front Axle Pivot Pin-Refer to L, Fig. 6.

A pressure fitting is provided. Lubricate once a day.
Steering Post-Refer to M, Fig. 6.
A pressure fitting is provided; Lubricate once a day. Do not u~e heavy
grease.
Tie Rod Yoke End Pins-Refer to N, Fig. 6.
A pressure fitting is provided for each tie rod yoke end pin. Lubricate-daily.
Do not use heavy grease.
Bearing on Pulley End of Belt Pulley Shaft-Refer to 0, Fig. 6.
The bearing carrier at the right hand-end of belt pulley shaft next to the
pulley is provided with a pressure fitting for auxiliary lubrication of the bearing.
It is only necessary to lubricate at this point when tractor is used for belt work
and particularly if tractor does not set level. Oiling twice a day should provide
ample lubrication, but if there is any indication of heating, oil should
be supplied more frequently. ·

Magneto-Refer to P, Fig. 6.
For instructions on the general care· of magneto, be sure to study the Mag-
neto Manual which you will find enclosed with this manual. -

18
 SUGGESTIONS FOR EASY STARTING
Do not always blame the magneto for hard starting.
What To Do.
In cold weather a good grade of gasoline should be used.
Before attempting to start be sure to see that gasoline, and ga~line only, is
in the carburetor bowl.
a
. In cold weather light oil should be used in the engine. 10-W is satisfactory
and will permit ease of cranking.
Ground the magneto and with the carburetor choked crank the engine three
or four revolutions. At the same time also observe if the impulse coupling is
working freely.
Advance magneto so it is just free from the shorting or grounded position.
. Place the choke in the·open position and the carburetor throttle in one-half
open position.
Crank the engine by using left hand. Do not spin, but pull crank across the
radiator instead of in a vertical direction, approximately one-half turn. Do not
pull the crank too fast as this will prevent engagement of the impulse coupling.
Keep spark plugs in good condition and see that points have proper gap.
Slow engine to idling speed before stopping if you intend to start again, with
engine hot.

THE COMPLETE OBSERVANCE of one simple rule would

prevent many thousand serious injuries each year. THAT
RULE IS: "NEVER ATTEMPT TO CLEAN, OIL, OR AD-
JUST A MACHINE WHILE IN MOTION.
-National Safety Council.

19
 IGNITION.
An instruction book giving directions for the care of the magneto is furnished
with each tractor manual.
Do not attempt to take magneto apart in the field. Many magnetos are
ruined because of being tampered with by inexperienced operators.

To Test Spark Plugs

The spark plugs used in this
INS U LATO R _,,..__ tractor are ¼ inch regular S. A. E.
· Standard Thread. The best re-
sults are obtained with a plug hav-
. ing a ¾ inch shank.
If a cylinder continues to miss
after putting the cleaned plug back
it is a good idea to try a plug from
one of the cylinders that fires cor-
rectly in the missing cylinder to de-
termine if the trouble is really due
to a faulty plug or to some. other
cause. In case the cylinder fires
after this change is made it is cor-
rect to assume that the plug itself
GAP is at fault.
Fig. 10. Spark Plug. To test the porce;ain for cracks
. connect the proper wire to the plug
and lay it on the cylinder in such a position that the open end of the shell is to-
ward you. Start up the engine on three cylinders and see where the spark occurs.
If the spark jumps across inside the shell the trouble is located and is remedied
orily by replacing plug. This test is mo~e reliable if the plug points are separated ·
about ~ inch, so as to more nearly equalize the resistance offered when plug is in
cylinder. Be sure to gauge the points correctly before replacing the plug in the
cylinder.
The first evidence of a cylinder missing is the irregular exhaust accompanied
by loss of power and by a jerky motion of the tractor. This is often due to failure
in the ignition system-usually a poor spark plug. To determine which cylinder
is at fault short circuit them in turn. This is accomplished by placing a wooden
handled screw driver in contact with the plug and cylinder casting while motor is
running. Test each cylinder in this manner. If the cylinder that is being tested
is at fault, no difference in the exhaust or the running of the engine will be noticed.
When a live cylinder is tested, however, the difference in operation will be ap-
parent.
In case one cylinder is missing the probable cause is failur~ of either the igni-
tion or compression. First, as you turn the engine over notice the compression on
the cylinder at fault. Sometimes a valve sticks open, which always causes the
cylinder to miss. Next, replace the spark plug with a new one or one from a live
cylinder. If the cylinder then fires we know the difficulty was due to a defective
spark plug.
If the cylinder still misses, remove the wires from the plugs, examine same
and see that all are in good condition, especially that the insulation is not broken
as this will allow leakage of current and result in weak sparks at the plugs. Gaps
at spark plugs should be set uniformly. The correct gap is .020 which is slightly
more than ¾4 ".

20
 · Fig. 11. Carburetor.

Carburetor Adjustment . .
If the carburetor is out of adjustment, and the engine not running, tum the
main jet adjusting needle (2), to the right until it seats lightly, being careful not
to force the point against the seat, as d9ing so may ruin the seat. Next tum it
back about one·and one-half turns. The engine should start on this adjustment
and it is sufficiently close to run until the final adjustment is made.
Always run engine until it is thoroughly warm before making final adjust-
ment. When this adjustment is made it is best to have the engine under the load
it is to be adjusted to. Turn the needle valve clockwise for a lean mixture and
counter clockwise for a rich mixture.
To distinguish whether the charge is too lean or too rich the engine should be
watched closely. A lean mixture is indicated by loss of power and spitting through
carburetor, especially when it is accelerated by pulling lightly on governor rod.
A rich mixture is indicated by sluggish action of the engine and by the appearance
of black smoke from the exhaust. The carburetor should be adjusted between
these two P<?ints until the best operation of the engine is secured.

21
 Due to the lack oi moving. parts affecting Zenith carburetor mixtures, about
the only thing than can disturb its functioning is the presence of dirt and water.
To insure uninterrupted operation the carburetor should be cleaned periodically.
. The Main Jet (1) is the high speed jet and ·exerts its greatest influence at
higher engine speeds. It is a direct suction jet and its flow increases with the
flow of air.- Its size is predetermined to give economical operation.
·ti To adjust the supply of fuel through the main jet, turn the Main Jet Adjust-
ing Needle (2) clockwise for a lean mixture and counter-clockwise for a rich mix-
ture.
To get the proper adjustment for your engine: Operate with the regular load
and speed up the engine to about¼ throttle opening. Now, turn adjusting needle
clockwise until engine starts to miss and then back out the needle about ¼ of a
turn. This should be the correct mixture to run the engine economically.
Idling Adjustment
To adjust the idle proceed as follows: Set stop screw (3) on throttle lever
so that the engine "turns over" slowly, but not so slowly that the magneto im-
pulse catches. Turn in or out on idle~ needle valve (4) until engine hits evenly
and without skipping. Then back off on stop screw until desired engine speed
is obtained. The correct idling adjustment is usually found with the idling
needle valve between 1 and 3 turns open. A good starting point is 1½ tu.ms
from· its seat. -
Float
The level line is ¼" down from the top of fuel bowl. The float is not ad. ·
justable and should the level be high or low do not bend the float hinge. In cases
where the fuel valve and seat (5) are worn replace with a new assembly.
Engine Stopped on Fuel Oils
In case the engine stops on fuel oils and becomes cold the best method of
starting is to shut off fuel oils at tank and drain the carburetor. Then tum on
the gasoline and allow some to flow out of carburetor before closing the drain
cock. In this manner all the fuel oils will be removed from the carburetor and
pipes.
Cleaning the Union Body Screen
Should the engine miss or not function properly it is advisable to clean the
screen (8) in the union body (6). To do this unscrew the filter plug (7) and re-
- move the screen (8). Rinse in gasoline so that any dirt or foreign matters which
may have accumulated will be removed. This should be done periodically so as
to give uninterrupted service.

22
 ENGINE HEAT REGULATION

1. Fig. 12. Radiator Curtain.

The heat of the engine is to a degree controllable by regulating the draft
through the radiator, thus affecting the temperature of the cooling water-also
.by regulating the heat of the intake air with the exhaust deflector.
The greatest safeguard, in keeping the temperature of the engine at the
best operating point is the use of a cover over the front of the radiator. The area
that is shut off by this cover and the length of time it can be left in place without
causing the engine to overheat is, of course, governed by weather temperature
and the load under which the tractor is laboring and by the direction of the wind.
Cover the front of the radiator when starting on gasoline and keep
cover in place until the lower water connection is quite warm to the touch.
Water temperature should be about 180° to 200 F. or just below boiling.
Furnace Oil can then be turned on and the radiator cover dropped
enough to .1ust keep engine at this temperature. (Gauge is shown at 28,
Fig. 4.)
In cold weather, or when operating on a light load and particularly if doing
field work, the radiator can be kept well covered and the exhaust heat used with-
ou~ danger of boiling the water in the radiator.
In hot weather, however, and more
noticeably when working steadily on full
loads on the belt where the engine is
sheltered from the wind, the radiator
should be uncovered after the engine is
once warmed up thoroughly.· The exhaust
heat can also be by-passed after the engine
is warm. Set damper lever 26, Fig. 4
in cold position marked "C".
. Additional effort on the part of · the
operator is required in following out the
above method,. but the better results ob-
tained prove its worth
· 2. -Fig. 12. · Radiator ::foreen.
It is of the greatest importance that the
· radiator screen be kept clean so that the
draft through the radiator is unobstructed,
otherwise overheating is apt to result. .The
- screen is quickly removed and easily cleaned.
In time the radiator core may become
clogged between the fins with fine chaff and
dust. To clean out, throw several pails of
·water against the rear of radiator core or
if available~ use water under pressure.
Fig. 12. Radiator Curtain and Screen.

COLD WEATHER OPERATION

There are certain precautions to observe when tractors. are used in cold
weather in order to obtain satisfactory operation.
The control and maintaining of proper temperature of the cooling medium
is-most important in order to secure satisfactory performance on the low cost fuels.

23
 CASE tractors are provided with the thermostats which will maintain a uni-
form temperature for the best results, but in cold weather it may be necessary to
use the curtain to assist in quickly warming up the engine as well as control the
heat.
When operating on gasoline, treat the cooling system of you(tractor:engine-
as you would a car or truck engine by using an anti-freeze.
IF OPERATING THE ENGINE ON LOW COST FUEL IN COLD
WEATHER, BE SURE TO USE AN ANTI-FREEZE '!'HAT HAS A
HIGH BOILING POINT. THIS IS NECESSARY AS THE WATER
TEMPERATURE MUST BE KEPT BETWEEN 180 AND 200°F. WHEN
OPERATING ON LOW COST FUEL. PRESTONE, GLYCERINE, OR
SIMILAR ANTI-FREEZE SOLUTIONS, WHICH DO NOT EVAPORATE
AT AS LOW A TEMPERATURE AS ALCOHOL OR ALCOHOL BASE
ANTI-FREEZE SOLUTIONS, WILL BE SATISFACTORY.
It is very important, when using low c9st fuels, to run the engine on gasoline
a sufficient time until the water is heated to 180° F. before turning on the low
cost fuel.
Lubrication.
- In cold weather use light oils is recommended. In exceedingly cold
weather it is very important to change oil oftener than in warm weather
This is on account of water condensation in the engine crankcase which is much
greater during cold weather, and if a sufficient amount of water is permitted to
reach the oil pump it will freeze and result in breakage of parts. In cold weather
many operators drain the lubricating oil after each day's run and put it in a
warm place, and then refill with this warm oil. In exceedingly cold weather this
practice is to be recommended. If the above recommendations of draining the
oil in cold weather is not followed out it will be necessary to loosen the oil pan
drain plug daily, after the tractor has been standing about an hour, and see if
it contains any water. It is not necessary to remove the drain plug, simply back
it up until but one or two threads are holding and if crankcase contains water it
will drain out.
In cold weather the oil in the cleaner must be carefully watched to see that
the oil used is such that it will not congeal to a point where it will not be carried
by the air stream to the filtering screens. If the oil congeals it can be thinned
down by fuel oil or kerosene to the consistency of milk.

AIR CLEANER
1. Fig. 13. The Case Air . Cleaner requires very little attention other than
cleaning and adding the proper amount of new oil of the proper .
body. It is important to follow these instructions exactly.
2. Fig. 13. To remove the reservoir, loosen hand nut so clamp strap can be
swung to one side.
3. Fig. 13. Discard the old oil from reservoir and clean it out with gas-
oline, as leaves, chaff, bugs, etc., as well as the dust will be
held in the reservoir.
4. Fig. 13. In very dusty conditions use a long screwdriver to dislodge dirt
sticking to bottom and sides of intake passage in body of cleaner.
5. Fig. 13. The air cleaner oil reservoir should be removed daily, or
oftener under dusty conditions, cleaned and filled to the
level marked on reservoir with an oil having a viscosity of
S. A. E. No. 10, or the same oil that is put in the engine

24
 /

G)

---©

Fig. 13. Care of CASE Air Cleaner.

crankcase. However, if the engine is operated when the

weather is quite cool, it may be necessary to thin out the
S. A. E. No. 10 oil with a slight amount of kerosene. Dirt
and dust taken into the engine with the intake air is very hari;nful
as it will cause excessive wear of pistons and sleeves, sticking of
the valve stems, ·wear of valve stem guides and may cause valves
to hold open so they burn and leak.
6. It must always be remembered that a small portion of the oil·
used in the1cleaner will disappear. This is controlled by the con-
sistency of the mixture of the oil, as well as the engine heat and
horsepower. ·

25
 /iri,.;;.~;;;;;;~~~~~~~f/ij;;;;;~~;;;;;::;;;;;;;;::;;;;;;;;::;;;;:;;;~11{~le~

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Fig. 14. Governor Adjustment.

GOVERNOR
1. The normal engine speed under load is 1100 R. P. M. This gives
a belt pulley speed of 780 R. P. M. The no load speed of the en-
gine is approximately 1200 R.P.M., which gives a no load pulley
speed of 860 R.P.M. Check the speed at belt pulley occasion-
ally with an accurate speed indicator, as correct speed should
be maintained if tractor is to do its best work.
The throttle can be closed to hold engine speed as low as 600
R. P. M., and the governor will respond as load comes on..
After a few days use, check the speed of belt pulley shaft with
a reliable speed indicator and adjust governor if necessary. ,
2. Fig. 14. The speed is controlled by adjusting tension on governor control
spring. If speed is too low, loosen set screw in collar on end of gov-
ernor spring and put more tension on springs by stretching or mov-
ing collar forward. If speed is too high, adjust spring for less
tension.
3. Fig. 11. Adjust stop screw at throttle ·valve on carburetor to secure desired
idling speed with throttle closed. See idling adjustment instruc-
tions.
4. Fig. 14. The governor holding screw 4, Fig. 14 should be inspected oc-
casionally to make sure that it is tight. Set the locknut up tight
after screw is tightened. The screw must be taken out in order to
remove governor assembly.
5. If at any time the governor is to be removed, it will be necessary
to remove radiator. The removal of any of these parts is very
simple and can be accomplished as follows:
Disconnect magneto lever and wires.
Remove magneto from its bracket.
Remove three cap screws fastening magneto base in place.
Remove radiator.
Disconnect oil line, governor control rod and governor rod.
Remove two cap screws and one stud fastening governor housing
in place.
Remove governor holding screw shown at 4, Fig. 14. Governor
assembly can now be lifted out. In the event it sticks in any way,
then tap ·lightly with a babbit hammer or some other soft metal.
When reassembling be sure that all parts are fastened securely in
place, and that magneto is correctly retimed.

26
 0

© 0
\

0 0
0

Fig. 15. Fan and Water Pump.

FAN AND WATER.PUMP.

. This pump is of- the packingless type~ Leakage is prevented by metal sur•
faces shown at (1). It requires no attention except proper lubrication and ad-
. justment of the belt.
· The pump may leak slightly when new. This will disappear as soon as the
metal surfaces become a running fit.
LUBRICATION
To properly lubricate the pump, it is essential to use a special water pump
grease, one that will not become fluid at high water temperature. Most
. reliable lubricating firms supply a grease suitable for water pumps.
The grease cup should be turned down one turn every half day when stopped
at noon, and at the end of the days run,· or when tractor is to remain idle.
Never replace grease cup with pressure oiling fitting.
TIGHTEN DRIVE BELT
NOTE: Remove all spark plug wires to avoid any possibility of the
engine starting while working on the fan and water pump assembly.

27
 Loosen the cap screw (2) and when standing on the right hand side of the
engine, tum the upper fan blades away from you. This will screw the pulley (3)
further into its adjusting half (4). Do not adjust the belt tight. The tension
should be just enough to take up any looseness or slack. After tightening, reset
the cap screw (2) reasonably snug1' which will lock the adjusting half.

Installing New Belt

Drain the radiator and disconnect the complete radiator assembly. This will
permit it to be moved forward about ¼ of an inch, which will allow putting
the belt over the lower drive pulley.
Loosen the cap screw (2) and back off the adjusting half of pulley (4) several
turns. This will put the pulley in its widest position and provide for further belt
. adjustment. ·
Remove the cap screws fastening the pump body to the cylinder block. This
will allow the entire assembly to tip down slightly. Put the new belt on the upper
pulley and in place on the lower pulley. Tighten the cap screws that fasten the
pump body to the cylinder block ·and adjust the belt to the proper tension as
instructed.

REPAIRING FAN AND WATER PUMP

When necessary to repair or replace any part of the water pump, proceed as
~~= .
Remove the cap screws (5). This will permit the removal of the locking plate
(11) and fan blades. The locking plate has notches punched to accommodate the
locking nut (6) in any position it may stop when tight.
Remove nut (6) and drive out the shaft (7). This can be done by backing up.
and supporting the pulley at the inner edge, and drive out the shaft. Use care
not to damage the impeller. · ,
Take out the three screws (12) fastening felt retainer and remove the retainer,
felt, its washer, ball bearing and spring (8).
The pulley and fan are now completely disassembled. The bushing (9) may
·be driven out or any other part of the assembly may be replaced.
If a new shaft or impeller are to be replaced, file off one end of the pin (13) ·
and drive it out. When replacing the impeller fill the impeller cavity (10) with
grease, and make sure a new pin is used, riveted over at both ends.
When fitting a new_ impeller_ to a shaft. it should be understood that the im •
peller will be slightly loose on the shaft. This is to insure perfect alignment of the
hub of the impeller against the seal shown as (1).
When reassembling pack the space around the shaft and inside spring with
grease. Put in the spring and ball bearing. Make sure the sealed end of the ball
bearing is forward, and driven down to the shoulder on the shaft as shown.
Put on the felt, and its retainer using the washer to the rear of the felt as
shown. ··
When assembling the hub (3) to the shaft, it is best to start the key in the
shaft keyway about¼". and ·put the pulley on, making sure its inner bub is
~gainst the bearing. Drive the key in flush with front hub. __
Assemble the fan blades in the same manner they were removed.
· When assembly is installed on the tractor it is important to grease it frequently
until one is sure that all spaces are sealed with grease, after.which follow the lubri-
cating instructions. -
28
 · · Fig. 16. Belt Pulley and Brake.

BELT PULLEY AND PULt.EY BRAKE

1. Fig. 16. The belt pulley is made in two sections. The outer section is de-
tachable giving extra clearance for lugs on drive wheels when trac-
tor is used for field work.
The pulley is 13" diameter and has 8½" face so that an 8"
drive belt can be used. A crossed belt is recommended. The pulley
rotates 780 R.P.M. (the belt speed 2650 feet per minute) at a
normal loaded engine speed of 1100 R.P.M.
2. To determine the engine speed, multiply the pulley speed by 1.41.
As an example 1.41 x 780 equals 1100 engine speed. ·
3. The pulley brake is applied by pushing forward on the clutch lever
and will act as a brake to hold tractor when the gears are engaged
or for stopping the belt pulley in belt operations.
4. Fig. 16. When clutch is disengaged the belt pulley should tum freely;
therefoi'e, care must be taken to adjust pulley brake so that·max•
imum travel of clutch lever is obtained. If the travel of clutch
lever is too short, the clutch will not release properly. Refer to
clutch adjustment, page 43 and 44.
· 5. Fig. 16. After several days use it is advisable to straighten lock washer 5,
Fig. 16 and tighten nut that holds belt pulley o~ shaft. Be sure
to bend lock washer against nut after tightening so that it is
securely locked.
NOTE: 5, Fig. 16 shows the lip type lockwasher, as used on the
earlier straight end shafts. A spring type lockwasher is now
used on the tapered end shafts as shown in Fig. 31.

29
 /
/
SD

Fig. 17.I._Puahrod Adjuatment.

ADJUSTMENT OF VALVE PUSHRODS

1. Fig. 17. The· clearance between rocker arms and ends of valve stems
should be kept properly adjusted. The gap should be .018" when
the valve is fully closed. A gauge .018" thick is furnished with
each tractor, located on one of the long studs which holds the
bracket for Rocker Valve Shaft. This clearance should be checked
every 30 days with the gauge furnished with the tractor.
2. To inspect or adjust pushrods, it is necessary to remove the hood
and the valve cover. ·
3. Fig. 17. Crank engine until the piston ef No. 1 cylinder (next to cranking
end) is at top dead center on the compression stroke. In this
· position the adjustment of both valves for this cylinder can be
made. Loosen lock nut and tum adjusting screws until the correct
clearance is obtained. Tighten locknuts securely, after adjustment
is made.
4. The engine should then be cranked one-half revolution before
setting adjustment for No. 3 cylinder. Another half revolution
for No. 4 and again for No. 2. The firing order of cylinders is
1-3-4-2. •
s. For convenience in setting pushrods or for valve timing the rim of
flywheel is marked for dead center and for exhaust valve closing
for No. 1 cylinder. Remove the plug from inspection hole on R.H.
side of clutch housing as shown on Fig. 2, and crank engine until
mark "D,, on flywheel is directly in line with hole. This is top
dead center of No. 1 or front cylinder. The letter (E) is stamped
l¼" away from (D) and indicates the point of exhaust closing.

30
 Fig. 18. Case Valve Tools.

TO RECONDITION VALVE SEATS

Lack of compression in one or more cylinders is one of the chief sources of
lack of power. An engine with poor compression is inefficient and should not be
kept in service in such condition. It is very simple to test an engine for compres-
sion leaks by cranking, but the engine should be run until it has warmed up
to working temperature and the valves and other parts properly oiled
before such a test is made. Testing of compression by cranking when the
cylinders are cold is mis-leading. If in cranking a wami engine there is not a
marked resistance as each cylinder is on the compression stroke, it is probably
because of compression leaks past the valves or if the engine has been operated
Jor some months there may be compression leaks past the piston ,rings which
requires replacement of rings or pistons to put in good condition.
If the compression is poor, remove the valve cover and squirt kerosene on
the valve stems and rocker arms to remove any gummy oil accumulation and then
oil with light oil. Many times the valves will seat tight after this is done.
' '
Tractor owners should not be alarmed if they hear a slight amount of com-
pression escaping past "the valve seats, as valves seldom remain absolutely tight
in service and slight leaks are quite noticeable due to the exhaust pipe being so
close to the man cranking the engine. Generally speaking, if the tractor has good
pow.er, it is best to leave the valves alone. It is time enough to recondition valve
seats when they are known to be the cause of lack of power.

31
 The valve seat may be distorted or pitted and when this occurs merely re-
grinding will not true up the seat and restore the conditions that are necessary
for satisfactory operation. Where the valve seats are to be reconditioned, pro-
ceed to remove head which can be accomplished as follows:
1. Drain all the water from cooling system, and remove the spark plugs.
2. Remove the metal hood over engine.
3. Remove the valve housing cover.
4. Remove manifold. air cleaner and carburetor, as one unit by removing
two clamps on manifold that are held by four studs.
5.. Remove the four nuts holding bearing brackets that hold rocker arm
assembly, and the rocker arm shaft and assembly can be removed.
6. Remove the push rods.
7. Remove the nuts from the cylinder head studs. Disconnect the cap
screws in front of cylinder head that hold water flange.
8. fhe cylinder head can be lifted off.
9. Compressor tool No. 402AA shown at Fig.18-simplifies the removal of
valves. This tool is part of Case tool equipment and can be obtained
from your Case dealer.
10. As the exhaust valve seats are high grade steel inserts they cannot be
reconditioned by reaming or hand grinding, therefore, take the head to a .
reliable machine shop that is equipped wi_th high speed grinders which
are necessary to recondition hardened valve seats.
11. After grinding the valves the push rods are usually too long and should
be adjusted to .018 11 when the engine is cold. Use the gauge furnished
with the tractor for setting clearance. Refer to Fig. 17.
12. When placing the cylinder head on engine see that the gasket is not
damaged or turned up at the edge and that gasket is right side up with
holes in cylinder and gasket opposite each other. Tighten the stud nuts
securely. After engine has been running long enough to beC'ome hot,
tighten still more, but be careful not to overstrain the studs.

REGARDLESS OF THE CARE USED in the design and

construction of farm equipment, there are many points that
cannot be completely safeguarded without interfering with
accessibility and efficient operation.
-National Safety Council.

REPLACING CYLINDER BARRELS

1. Drain di the water from cooling system and disconnect spark plug wires.
2. Remov~ the metal hood over engine.
3. Remove valve housing cover.
4. Disconnect choke rod, governor throttle rod nnd fuel line at the carburetor.
Remove manifold, air cleaner and carburetor as one unit, by ren 1oving the
two clamps o·.1 manifold that are held by the four stud nuts.
5. Remove the four nuts that secure the rocker arm brackets, and assembly can
be removed.

82
 ..... .... C
~JIIIII I llllllllill 1111 lllllt II 11111111111111111111111 I 111111 IIH 11111111111111111, 1 11

Fig. 19. Removable Cylinder Barrels. ·

6. · Remove the push rods .

.7. Remove the cap screws in front end of cylinder head that hold the water
elbow flange. Loosen the two nuts that hold the bottom of the radiator at
lower outside comers~ . Remove the nuts from the cylinder head studs.
8. Cylinder head can now. be lifted off.
9. Remove the four hand hole covers. Drain oil.
10. Remove con.necting rod bolts. Piston and rod assembly can then be removed
upward through barrel. The connecting rods are numbered. Note side of
engine the numbers appear on.
11. The cylinder barrel puller shown can be ordered from your Case dealer as
No. 394-AA fo:r the "L" series and 395-AA fer the "C" s !lies. Its use
simplifies the ::>peration of removing the barrel as shown.
12. Remove the rubber gasket 6, Fig. 19 and thoroughly clean the lower groove
in the cylinder block where the gasket fits. See that the shoulders on barrel
and in cylinder block are clean.
13. Put new rubber gasket (6) Fig. 19 down in lower groove of cylinder block.
Be sure that gasket is in the groove. Never use the old rubber gasket.·
14. Put grease around rubber gasket when it is in place, and put grease around
lower edge and outside of lower end of barrel, before putting it in block. Do
not fill groove with grease.
38
15. Put the barrel down in place. When the end of barrel has entered the rubber
gasket, push it down in place so the top shoulder on barrel enters the shoulder
in the block. If necessary use a block of hard wood and hammer as a driver.
The barrel will push down to final position which is .001 to .003 higher than
the top surfaces of block, when the cylinder head· is put on and tightened
down. On later tractors there is more clearance between the top shoulders
of the cylinder barrel and the top shoulder of the engine block, therefore
the replacement cylinder barrels will be a slightly looser fit than the original
barrels, and in installing them one will be able to push them into .place
very· easily by hand.
16. Remove pistons from the connecting rods by removing the piston pin clamp
screw, and tap piston pin out endwise. .
17. Assemble new pistons to rods. Oil piston pin before assembling~ Use a
new lock under the clamping screw head. Line up groove in piston pin so
that clamping screw will enter thread easily. When screw is tight, bend one
ear to lock down, and one ear up to securely lock the clamping screw.
18. To hold piston when loosening or tightening clamping screw, tighten a
piece ¾" or ¾" round stock in a vise, and slide piston pin on the round
stock. Never hold a connecting rod in a,vise while loosening or tightening
locking screws or driving in a piston pin.
19 Thoroughly lubricate.the pistons and piston rings with a light oil, and install
them in the cylinders in the order and position in which they were removed.
Do not attempt to set the connecting rod bearings up tight. When final
tightening is accomplished, the bearings should be free. The best clearance
· for the bearing is .002, which allows oil to flow and form a complete coating
on the crankshaft for the bearing in the rod.
20 Put a small quantity of light oil around the edge of each cylinder, and crank
the engine over a few revolutions. This will insure lubrication for the first
few moments, after which time, the oil thrown from the connecting rods
· will supply necessary lubrication. ·
21. Put on the cylinder head and its gasket. Be sure the gasket is clean and not
damaged. Tighten the cylinder head nuts evenly and firmly, and adjust the
tappet clearance to .018. After the engine has warmed up, retighten the
cylinder head stud nuts, and recheck the tappet clearance. .
22. Connect the front water connection and put on manifold and other units
removed.
23. Fill the radiator and inspect for water leaks by looking through the hand hole
opening in the side of the crankcase. ·
24•.- Before replacing the hand hole covers, wash out any rust or water that may
have dropped in the pan while removing barrels.
·25~ Fill the crankcase to the high level plug with a good grade of light oil having
· a body equivalent to S. A. E. No. 10. Add one quart oflight oil to each tank
of fuel for approximately the first 100 hours of operation. After this follow
·the lubrication instructions given on page 14.
26. When a cylinder barrel and piston assembly is installed the power plant of
engine will be in new condition. The pistons and cyl~der barrels are ma-
chined and honed to as fine a finish as the best new automobile that you
could purchase today, therefore, treat it in a similar manner until the parts
have a running polish. For the first fifty hours run at half load or less
before going to full load.
27. Many oil retailers recommend and there is a tendency to use in the crmik-
case, oils that are entirely too heavy for the closely fitted and finely finished
rods, pistons and cylinders of Case tractors. Much better results are secured
by using the light oils as recommended on page 14. ·

34
 © ©
------------ I......... .: __
.................... /

Fig. 20. Testing Play in Bearings.

CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

NOTE: Remove all spark plug wires to avoid any possi-
bility of engine starting while working on bearings.
1. Fig. 20.
To test the wear of connecting rod bearings, remove the inspection-
plates at side of crank case. Crank engine so that connecting rod
to be tested is on the compression stroke and pry under bearing
cap with a bar as shown, also pry under bearing bolt. Determine
by feel the extent of looseness of bearing or bolt.
A marked decrease in the oil pressure as shown by the pres- -
sure gauge is an indication that the bearings are so loose that they
do not offer much resistance to the passage of oil.
2. Fig. 20. The bearings are provided with a number of thin shims for adjust-
ment. Bearings are originally set with a clearance of .002". When
the bearings become worn the original clearance can be main-
tained by removing some of the thin shims provided. Be sure to
remove the same amount of shims from each side· of bearing, also
see that the cap is drawn tight on the shims. If the bearing is too
tight · add additional shims. Do not under any circumstances
obtain running fit by leaving the nuts loose.
. When final tightening is accomplished, the bearing should
not be tight. The best clearance in the bearing is .002" which
allows room for oil flow.
Never operate the engine without replacing cotter pins to
keep nuts in place. It is advisable to always use new cotter pins.
To adjust bearings the inspection plates on both sides of crank
case should be removed, which facilitates getting at nuts.
3. Fig. 20. From .004" to .012 11 side play of bearing should be allowed.
 MAIN BEARINGS
Any one of the three main bearing caps can be adjusted for wear without
removing cylinder block. To adjust, remove the radius rod and oil screen and
take the oil pan down. Disconnect oil line from bearings and oil· pump.
Use a small bar to pry under crankshaft to determine play in bearing. Also
use a bar to check up on end play. The thrust is taken by center main bearing
which has a flange on each end. There should be ~004 inches to .010 inches '
clearance.
Adjust one main bearing at a time. A thick laminated shim is used on each
side and laminatiQns .002n thick can be peeled off if necessary to take up for wear.
After .shims are adjusted, tighten nuts and lock them securely with wire.
The main bearings should never be set up tight. The best clearance in the
bearing is .002" which allows room for oil flow. ~
When aU bearing,s are adjusted and -properly set the engine shouk turn
freely with crank if spark plugs are not in place.
PISTON PIN
To remove the piston pin, back the clamping screw free of its threads. The
capscrew cannot be taken out completely but must be raised slightly to allow
pin to be removed. In assembling, the clamping screw and its locking stamping
must be in place in the rod. Raise screw slightly to allow pin to be put in. I ine
up notch in pin with clamping screw and tighten and lock securely with the
locking stamping bent over rod and screw head. Bend two ears down tight to
the rod and two ears up against the head of lock screw.

Fig. 21. Steering Spindle and Drag Link• .

STEERING SPINDLE AND DRAG LINK

1. Fig. 21. T,') take up lost motion due to wear in drag link, remove cotter
pin 1, Fig. 21 and tum cap to the right and relock with cotter pin.
2. Fig. 21. The dust shield 2, Fig. 21 and the gasket back of it should
be in place on each front wheel as shown to prevent dirt from
working into wheel bearings.

16
3. Fig. 21., Refer ~o page 18 for instructions on oiling of king pins.
4. Fig. 21. Refer to pag;e 18 for lubrication of drag link.
5. Fig. 21. Refer to page 19 for lubrication of tie rod yoke end pins. If tie-rod
is removed, care should be taken in replacing to adjust so that front
. wheels gather or !'toe-in" slightly. The front wheels should be¾"
closer together at front than at the rear, measured at height of
hub and at the rims of wheels.
6. Fig. 21. The king pin is clamped from turning by use of a threaded tapered
pin, 6, Fig. 21. If necessary to remove king pin, the tapered pin
must be removed first. The caps on top and bottom of knuckle
should be removed to allow driving out the king pin.
7. Fig. 21. When king pin is driven out, the spindle and two hardened
washers 7, Fig. 21 can be removed. In reassembling, make sure
that the two hardened washers are in place at lower end of the
. king pin hole.
8. If bushings are badly worn, they can be driven out of spindle and
new ones pressed in. ·

Fig. 22. Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment.

TO ADJUST FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS

-
.

1. Use a jack or blocks under front axle so that all weight is off of
front wheels when adjusting bearings. Make sure that all parts
are .clean and free from grit or dirt. Pack bearings with a good
grade of soft grease.

37
2. Fig. 22. The nut (2) should be dr~wn up against the outer cone and the
wheel rotated until the pressure of the nut causes a very notice-
able bind in the bearings. The nut should then be backed off one-
sixth turn until the bearings run freely with .002" to .006" end play.
3.. Fig. 22. When correct adjustment has been obtained, the cotter pin
shown at 3, Fig. 22 should be put in place.
4. Examine adjustment of front wheel bearings every thirty days to
make sure that play is not excessive.
5. Bearings should be packed in soft grease in assembling. Under
average conditions heavy oil should be added through the pressure
fittings every 30 hours if the tractor is being used for field work.
6. Fig. 22. Note: A Gasket should always be used between hub and dust
shields. New gaskets should be ordered for tractors that are not
so equipped. ·
7. Fig. 22. The dust shield (7) should be fastened securely in place as shown
in Fig. 22 when assembling, and should be examined occasionally
to make sure that it is tight in place and that gasket is in good
condition.

Fig. 23. Steering Gear.

STEERING GEAR ADJUSTMENT

1. Fig. 23. · End play of steering worm shaft is taken up by tightening set
screw 1, Fig. 23 located in transmission cover and bearing against
end of worm shaft. Be sure to re-lock set screw after changing
adjustment.
2. Fig. 23. Any excess end play in steering column can be taken ·up by tight-
ening nut 2, Fig. 23 at lower end of shaft. . ·

38
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Fig. 24. Rear Axle Bearing Adjustment-Note that Bearing Adjustment

is loosened so that Hub can be Drawn Tight on the Axle Taper•

. REAR AXLE BEARING ADJUSTMENT

., . Fig; 24. Shows the bearing adjustment loosened so that the wheel
can be drawn tight on the axle taper.
_Fig. 25. · After the hub has been drawn tight on the axle taper, the
adjusting nut (7) should be turned in a direction so it bears
against the face of wheel hub as shown in Fig. 25. Con-
tinued turning of the nut adjusts both the outer and inner
axle roller bearings. The manner in· which the rear axle bear-
ing lock nut, (shown at 7, Fig. 24 and 25) controls the adjustment
or end play of bearings should be clearly understood before at-
tempting to assemble the rear axle or even to remove or .tighten
rear wheels. Note that the bearing collar A, Fig. 25 turns with
· the axle, as it is driven by the same key (4) that drives the hub.
The rear axle bearing lock nut (7) acts as an adjusting nut for end
play, as it is threaded on to the bearing collar A and presses against
inner end of hub.
39
 Fig. 25. Rear Axle Bearing Adjustment-Note that Lock Nut is Tightened
Against the Inside of Hub is Drawn Tight on Axle Taper.

;When the hub of drive wheel is tight on taper of axle, the rear axle bearing
lock nut (7) can be screwed back tight against the hub, pushing bearing collar A
against the bearing cone. After tightening to this point crimp the lock washer
shown at 2 Fig. 25 to hold nut. ·
It is very important that the drive wheels be drawn tight on the axle taper
and the nut well tightened. If this is neglected the rear axle bearings can not be
properly adjusted and damage to the key or seat and possibly breakage of hub
will result. To tighten the drive wheels properly and to make the correct adjust-
ment of rear axle b~arings proceed as follows:-
1. The tractor should be securely blocked under the transmission so
that the drive wheels are clear of the ground when in place. Re-
move grease cup and dust shield that covers bearing adjustment.
·. 2. Fig. 24. Straighten lock washer 01248-AB shown at 2, Fig. 24 and tum
lock nut 7, Fig. 24 to the right (as you face the end of the axle) as
far as it will go, or until it is flush with the end of collar on which
it is threaded. This will leave a space between the inner end of
the hub and the adjusting collar, as shown at 3 11 Fig. 24.
40
 3. Before inserting the key in the keyway or putting on a new wheel,
carefully examine the bore of the wheel and its inner and ·outer
face. as well as the axle taper• its key and keyway. If any of these
parts have any rough or high spots be sure to dress them down
with a fine file.
4. Make sure the key 4, Fig. 24 is correctly fitted and iri.sert it in
keyway in axle, using the dowel pin as shown. The dowel is to
insure proper spacing of the key (4) in the bearing nut, shown as
A, Fig. 25. . ..
5. Make sure that the lock nut marked 7, Fig. 24 is turned back far
enough so that it will not prevent the hub from being drawn tight
on the axle taper .
.6. ·Fig. 24. Put the wheel on and with special Case wrench 02679-AB, which
can be secured from Case dealers, or a pipe wrench about three
feet long on the wrench furnished, tighten nut 6, Fig. 24 as tight
as you possibly can and put in the cotter pin.
7. Fig. 25. Turn the locknut 01249-AB shown as 7, Fig. 25 to the left or
counter-clockwise so that it is tight against the inside of the wheel
hub. The long spanner wrench 02680-AB, which is part of Case
Dealers service tool equipment should be used. Considerable
effort is required to tum this locknut so that all end play is taken
up. After tightening, crimp the lockwasher into the notch in
01249-AB as shown at 2, Fig. 25 to hold the adjusting nut.
8. The axle should turn freely in its bearing, but there should be no
end play. To detect end play in the rear axle bearings, jack or
block rear end of tractor until rear wheels are free of ground.
-Place bar under rear wheels and pry upward having a helper feel
for play between axle housing and nut 7, Fig. 25. If in drawing
the wheel on, the axle has been drawn through the bearing cone,
too much end play will result, and it will be necessary to turn the
locknut further to the left with spanner wrench 02680-AB to force
the cone into its correct position ..
9. The grease cup shown at Fig. 25, should be kept filled with a hard
cup grease and should be turned down once a day. Never remove
the grease · cups and replace them with pressure fitting,
using a fluid lubricant. This would defeat the purpose of
the seal. The grease not only lubricates the rear axle bear-
ings but also forms a seal to prevent transmission oil from
leaking out through the rear axle bearings.
10. Move the ciust cover into place and tighten. Put on grease cup.
To Replace Wheel, Adjusting Nut, its Collar or Oil Seal.
If after a course of time it is found necessary to replace any of the above parts,
proceed as follows:
1. Block tractor securely so that the drive wheels are clear of the ground.
'1.'hen remove cotter pin and nut (6). This will allow the removal of the
wheel with puller 400-AA which can be secured through your Case dealer.
With wheel removed it will permit the removal of adjusting-nut (7), as
well as collar "A". In the event oil seal is to be removed, it will be neces-
sary to take out the three capscrews (11) which hold its retaining collar
in place.
2. Before inserting the key in the keyway or putting on a new wheel, care-
fully examine the bore of the wheel) and its inner and outer face, as well
as the axle taper, its key and keyway. If any of these parts have any
rough or high spots be sure to dress them down with a fine file.

41
 3. Make sure the key (4} is correctly fitted and insert it in keyway in· axle,
using the dowel pin as shown. The dowel is to insure proper spacing of
the key (4) in the bearing nut, shown as "A''t Fig. 25. -
4. Make sure that lock nut 7, Figs. 24 and Figs. 25 is turned back far enough
so that it will not prevent the hub from being drawn tight on the axle
taper.
5. Put on wheel and securely tighten nut (6) and insert cotter pin~ Make
the necessary adjustments as covered under Rear Axle Bearing Adjust-
ment.

Fig. 26. Foot Brake Adjustment.

FOOT BRAKE
For belt work, the tractor can be backed into the belt and the tractor held by
setting foot brake. It is not necessary to use wheel blocks.
Shifting gears while tractor is on a hill can be accomplished if foot brake is
firmly applied. See, Fig. 4. ·

_To Adjust Brake.

1. Fig. 26. Loosen the locknut, 1, Fig. 26.
2. Fig. 26. With foot brake lever in released position, set adjusting nut 2,
Fig. 26 so that the band does not cause any drag on the drum. -
3. Tighten locknut after adjustment is made.

CLUTCH
Note: Remove all spark plug wires to avoid any possibility of engine
starting while working on clutch.
1. Fig. 2 7. Remove inspection plate on L. H. side of clutch housing and tighten
cap screws fastening clutch driving disc to flywheel after tractor
has run a few days. Check up on tightness of these cap screws
occasionally.

42
 Fig. 27. Clutch Assembly.

To Acijust Clutch. ,
2. Figs. 2 7 and 28. Release the clutch and turn belt pulley until clutch ad-
justing lock pin 2, Fig. 27 can be reached. Put transmission in
gear to hold the splined shaft from turning. Pull adjusting pin out
by use of the pronged tool 2, Fig. 28 furnished with tractor, and
tum the adjusting yoke to right or clockwise until operating lever
requires a distinct pressure to engage. The lock pin engages in
the teeth of the driving disc and one twenty-fourth tum to the right
will change adjustment two and one-half thousandths. Be sure
that lock pin engages after adjustment is made.

43
 It is important to adjust the clutch with sufficient tightness so
that it will not slip at maximum loads. If the clutch is allowed to
slip at any load the friction mats will be destroyed. The adjust-
ment should be such that quite a little effort is required at the
clutch lever to engage, and the clutch cone should snap into posi-
tion. A new clutch will require several adjustments until
the friction mats have time to wear down smooth.
3. When clutch is disengaged the belt pulley should turn freely.
Care must be taken in 01940-AB.
the adjustment of pulley
brake so it does not shorten
\
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the travel of the clutch cone
to such a degree that release
of clutch is effected.
With clutch dis-engaged
and pulley brake applied
there should be 1/16" clear-
ance between end of cone
and adjusting collar shown
at 3, Fig. 27.
4. A small amount of oil
from the crankcase will re-
main in the clutch housing 'I
when engine is stopped. Oil I
is supplied under pressure ~},.
through drilled passages in
clutch shaft to lubricate the
splines and the clutch throw-
out. Surplus oil is returned
to crankcase by action of the
flywheel.
Fig. 28. Clutch Adjustment.

Relining Clutch Friction Plate.

-The clutch can be removed and new friction mats installed in a short time.
To do this work it is necessary to split the tractor as shown in Figs. 29 and 30
1. Fig. 29. Block the drive wheels.
2. Fig. 29. Block up under front end of transmission case or use a jack.
3. Disengage clutch.
4. Put gear shift lever in neutral position.
5. Remove oil line to pressure gauge.
6. Disconnect fuel line.
7. Disconnect spark and throttle rods under fuel tank.
s~ Fig. 29. Remove cap screws holding radius rod cap and disconnect from
front end of transmission case.
9. Fig. 29. Disconnect the drag link at front end.
10. Fig. 29~ Remove hand hole covers from both sides of clutch housing.
11. Fig. 29. Pull out on clutch adjusting pin and tum dutch adjusting yoke
assembly about six full turns to the left or counter clockwise.
This will allow clutch cone to come out past the clutch fingers
when tractor is split.

44
 i\BNrrl C:
RESERVOIR DAil V
NI nLL 1.J /MRK
'SE Ci t:~C.llft 01\.
N#. ✓ 76/D/4

Fig. 29. Fu-st Steps in Splitting Ti:actor.

-
12. Fig. 29. Remove the 1" bolt on each side of flange and replace with two
·pins l"x14½" long. Oil these pins and use cotter pins in each end
to prevent pins from coming out. These pins will act as dowels
to hold engine and transmission case in line when split.
13. Fig. 29. Take out all bolts and cap screws from the flange.
14. Roll the front half of the tractor forward until the two parts are
sepa_rated approximately 9 ½".
15. Fig. 30. Remove eight cap screws that hold clutch friction plate to flywheel
and' clutch can be removed as a unit.
16. Fig. 30. Remove adjusting ring assembly and the worn facings can then- be
removed from clutch friction plate.
17. Fig. 30. Put on new facings, countersinking the rivets beneath the surface
of mats.
18. ·. Assemble clutch.
19. Put clutch assembly on stub shaft with fingers over the cone.
20~ Roll front part of tractor back, making sure that end of stub shaft
enters squarely into pilot bearing.
45
 ®

Fig. 30. Relining Clutch.

21. If there is any difficulty in bringing the two parts together, a long
bolt can be used on each side to draw the flanges up snug.
22. Work through the hand holes, replacing and tightening ·the eight
cap screws to hold friction plate in place.
23. Adjust clutch as directed under Figs. 27 and 28.

TRANSMISSION
Adjus~ment of Bevel Gears.
1. The bevel drive pinion on clutch shaft and bevel· gear on belt
pulley shaft should mesh snugly but not so tightly that they are
prevented from running free. ·
2. Fig. 31. Two thicknesses of metal shims are used in back of the bearing
caps and the· fit of gears can be adjusted by shifting belt pulley
shaft by putting in shims on one side and taking out on the other.
If bevel gear meshes too tight with bevel pinion on clutch
shaft, remove one thin shim from R. H. side and put it under the
L. H. bearing cap. If gears have too ·much back lash, remove
shim from L. H. side and add to R. H. side.
It is important that the faces of all gears and spacers on
this shaft be true and smooth and that the proper · amount of
shims are used so that when bearings caps are tightened there is
no end play of belt pulley shaft.
The small · ends of the teeth on bevel gear on clutch shaft are ground flat
and square with the bore and the belt pulley shaft is ground to accurate limits.
Refer to Figs. 27 and 32. The gauge 02890-AB-l{part of Case dealers service tool
equipment) can be used to set the relation of the bevel gears in case the gears
have been disassembled after leaving the factory.

46
 Before using the gauge,· make sure that the belt pulley shaft bearings are
adjusted so that there is no play in the belt pulley shaft.
Adjust the bevel piriion by means of shims until the gauge just fits free
between the belt pulley shaft and the ends of the pinion teeth as shown in Fig. 32.
use correct end stamped for Model "L" Tractors.) The belt pulley shaft should
be rotated to detect any interference in the teeth.
After the gears are correctly set, it is necessary to adjust to the correct
back lash of .003-.006 inches by adjusting the shims on back of bearing caps
on belt pulley shaft.

Fig. 31. Belt Pulley Shaft

To Remove Sliding Gear or Second Reduction Shaft Assembly.

NOTE: It is necessary to remove the second reduction shaft
· before it is possible to take out the belt pulley shaft if the tractor
is. not split and the clutch shaft removed. ·
3. Fig. 31. Remove belt pulley use special puller 401AA. · A special puller.
that can be used for pulling drive wheels can also be ordered
under No. 400AA. Order both from your Case Dealer.
4. Disconnect dutch shifter rod.
5. Fig. 33 .. Remove brake drum.
6. Disconnect spark and thottle rods. Remove the fuel tank.
7. . Take off transmission cover.
8. Rerr.ove shifter shafts and forks.
9. Fig. 33. Take out set screw 9, Fig. 33 holding differential drive pinion in
place.
10. Drive differential drive pinion about two inches to the left of its
regular position.
11. Fig. 33. Remove bearing caps· from both ends of shaft.
12. Move high and low speed gear against differential drive pinion
and push the shaft to the right. as far as possible.
13. Raise L. H. en<l of shaft and lift shaft out through top of trans-
mission case.
47
 Fig. 32. Use of Gauge 02890AB1 in Setting Bevel Gears

To Remove Belt Pulley Shaft.

14. Fig. 31. Remove both bearing caps keeping the shims as removed with
each cap.
15. Fig. 31. Remove bearing from L. H. end. This bearing i~ held by two cap
screws wired together and a flat washer. Be carefui not to damage
bearing in driving it off of shaft.
16. Push shaft to right as far as it will go.
17. R.aise up on L. H. end of shaft and remove through top of trans-
mission case.

48
 Caution: Care must be taken not to damage the oil seals when putting
on the clutch shaft bearing carrier or the right hand sliding gear shaft
bearing carrier. If seals"'are damaged, oil leaks will develop as shafts
at these locations have a!f>machined shoulder which oil seals must pass
, over. It is recommended that a thimble be used at these locations. These
thimbles are part of Tool Equipment 374-AA which is carried by most
Case dealers. ·

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Fig. 33. Sliding Gear Shaft

49
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Fig.:34. Differential Shaft

REMOVING DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY

1'8. Fig. 31. The reverse gear must be removed. This is done by taking out
the two cap screws on L. H. side of transmission case below belt
pulley shaft bearing and removing stud. Refer to 18, Fig. 31.
19. Drain oil from transmission and remove rear transmission cover.
20. Remove master link from each drive chain and take out chains.
21. Fig. 34. Remove the bearing caps 21, Fig. 34 on each side keeping the
shims with the caps.
22. Use a rope or chain sling to lift out the complete assembly.
··. 23. Fig. 34. In replacing the differential assembly, note that the frame side ·
of differential shollld be at the right as shown at 23, Fig. 34. Use
the correct amount of shims so that the assembly turns freely but
without end play.

DRIVE CHAINS
1. Once a season, remove top transmission cover to inspect tightness
of drive chains. With all the slack at top, chain should be tight
enough so it can be raised or lowered not to exceed one inch at
center.
2. To tighten drive chains, place jack under transmission case or
drawbar so that drive wheels are clear of ground ..
3. The rear transmission cover can be removed without any loss
of oil if the front end of tractor is lowered or the rear end raised
so that the oil flows to the front of the case. It is necessary to
raise the rear end of the Model "L" Tractor 30 ½ inches off the
ground to lower oil to proper level where it will not run out.

58
 0
Fig. 35. Tightening Drive Chains

4. Fig. 35. Remove rear transmission cover.

5. Fig. 35. Loosen the six nuts 5, Fig. 35 ~olding the rear axle housing to
transmission case so that axle housing can be shifted.
6. Fig. 35. Tum the adjusting bolt to the right to shift position of axle
housing, tightening chain. (The illustration shows operation of
loosening chain.)
7. After making adjustment, rotate wheel to.make sure that chain is
not so tight that it will cause excessive wear on chain and bearings.
8. Fig. 35. The head of adjusting bolt should set square so that recess in rear
transmission cover will fit over it locking bolt from turning.
9. Fig. 35. If chain is to be removed, take out the master link by removing
cotters.
_ Note: When servicing tractor chains, never use old cotter
pins the second time, but in all cases use new cotter pins of
the "Heat Treated Special Type". - If the old worn cotter
pin or a new common type cotter pin is used they "would
wear out in a short time allowing chain to become discon-
nected, which in turn might cause considerable damage.
These special type cotter pins can be ordered from the
nearest Case branch.

51
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POWER TAKE-OFF ATTACHMENT
The Power Take-Off is, located approximately centrally between drive
wheels, 32½ inches from the ground. The shaft rotates clockwise at a speed of
550 R.P.M. for an engine speed of 1100 R.P.M. The shaft end is machined to
1%" 6-B S.A.E. spline, which is the standard fitting for power driven implements
and tools to be used with this size of tractor. ,

52
To Install Power Take-Off-(See Fig. 36)
1. The rear transmission cover can be removed without any loss of oil if the
front end of tractor is lowered or the rear end raised so that the oil flows to
the front of the case. It is necessary to raise the rear end of the Model "L"
Tractor 30 ½ inches off the ground to lower oil to proper level whereit will
not run out. When this is done, the oil pump is not submerged in oil, there-
fore, the engine must not be started.
2. Remove transmission cover. Scrape the old gasket surface clean. Assemble
new gasket and new rear transmission cover. Then set the tractor back down
to the level position.
3. Disconnect the drag link from steering arm.
4. Remove spark and throttle rods.
5. Remove fuel line from rear end of tank to the strainer. Disconnect the fuel
line leading to the carburetor at the strainer end. Remove the fuel tank
strap nuts on one side, and then remove the fuel tank.
6. Remove the L. H. inspection plate from clutch housing.
7. Take out three c~p screws and remove small cover plate (18} which is just
above the stub shaft at front end of transmission case. Remove the top
transmission cover.
8. Put ball bearing (10) in. front end of transmission case.
9. Put collar, bearing and spacer (11) on large end of power take-off shaft.
10. . Place shaft (12) in transmission case until small end is over bevel pinion on
clutch shaft.
11. Slip gear clutch (13) over end of shaft and on the splines as shown.
12. Put on the thrust washer (14) making sure that rounded edge of washer is
toward the splines on the shaft.
13. Put on drive gear shown at 15.
14. Drive shaft (12) into front bearing (10) making sure that bearing is Ul)
against shoulder of shaft. .
15. · Put a mark on the end of the shaft to show the location of cotter pin hole.
Put ·on washer and tighten nut (17) to hold bearing snug on -shaft. Put in
cotter key.
16. Replace steel cover (18) using the gasket to make an oil tight joint.
17. Put on transmission rear end cover cap (9) with four cap screws (19).
18. Remove wood plug at 21, and steel plug at 20 from the holes in the front end
of the top transmission cover (6). ·
19. · Put spring and plunger (21) in the hole in top as shown, and put cotter in
end of plunger that projects at top of cover.·
20. . Put shifter shaft (22) in place as shown.
it
21. Put shifter fork (23) in position and clamp tightly on shifter shaft.
22. Put gasket (24) on top of transmission and put transmission top cover in
place. Make sure that shift~r fork is in place in groove of gear clutch.
· 23. Put shifter lever bracket (25) on cap screw at rear of transmission cover in
line with shifter shaft.
24. Put on shifter lever (26) and hook up to shifter shaft with rod. Replace
fuel tank and reconnect the drag link.
25. Connect fuel line, spark and throttle controls.
26. See that transmission contains oil to the level of filler spout.
27. When the power take-off is not being used, put on the shaft guard shown
~t 29, using a cap screw in end of shaft to hold in place. This guard covers
the splines.
53
28. When power take-off is connected to driven machinery, it will be necessary
to remove the spline shaft guard shown at 29. When this guard is re-
moved, make sure the adapter guard (not illustrated) is installed
and properly connected to the telescoping shield which should be
furnished 1with all Power Take-off driven machines.
It is equally important that the telescoping shields on Power
Take-off driven machines, which attach to the standard adapter
guard, are in place. If the Power Take-off driven machines are re-
ceived without these shields, see the nearest Case dealer or branch,
providing it is a Case Power Take-off driven machine. If other than
a Case, see the dealer handling said machine or the nearest branch
representing same.
If an attempt is made to operate the Power Take-off without
guard, the operator may be seriously injured due to his clothing
being wound on the universal joint or the revolving shaft.
Note: If a Power Take-off Tractor is delivered without the standard
adapter guard, then apply to your nearest Case dealer or branch
house for the said guard. ·
29. Shifter lever (26) is used to engage and disengage the power take-off
drive gear which drives the power take-off. In case power take-off
is not to be used, the lever should always be in the reverse or disen-
gaged position.
Power Take-Off and Hitch Connections
Before the tractor is used to pull and operate a power take-off
driven machine, be sure to order a raised hitch from your Case
dealer and have a complete understanding of all dimensions shown
on Figure 37 before making these connections or starting machine.
Fig. 37. Illustrates how the raised hitch is attached to Case tractors. This
is necessary in order that the dimensions "B" will not be too great,
otherwise, there will be too much telescoping action on the power
take-off shaft, causing it either to strike or pull apart in passing
through deep ditches or over terraces. The distance B, Figure 37
should not be more than A divided by 3. The following table
gives the dimension of A, B and C for Model L Tractor when
attached to Case power take-off driven machines. ---,:,-~

Fig. 37. Hitch and Power Take-off.

A B C
Model "L" with Power Take-Off 37.½ 11 11" 21¼"
A proper hitch should be provided and should conform to
Figure 37. The drawbar_should be arranged so that the

54
 hitch is midway between the two universals or nearly so.
To do this it will be necessary to extend the drawbar ba:ck for some
machines. Should one of the universal joints be too near the draw-
bar pinr this joint will assume too great an angle on short turns-
causing a severe strain that may result in serious damage to the ·
power take-off drive.
The· length of the shaft C, Figure 3 7 should be determined
by trial. Turn the tractor slowly holding the shaft outside
the tube, watching to see where the end of shaft comes when turning
as short as possible.. If it is shown that the shaft would hit the
universal fork when in place, it must be cut off enough to clear
about one inch. Likewise, the tube must clear the hub on the
universal joint at the opposite end by at least one inch. With the
shaft and tube the proper length for turning, check them care-
fully in the straight ahead position to see that the shaft extends
into the tube sufficiently to provide a satisfactory driving con-
nection~ ·
The front universal is provided with "shear pins" as shown at
"D", Fig. 37, in the form of 2-¾" x l,½ 11 Machine Bolts. · The
shearing of these bolts allows the universal joint hub on the trac-
tor to turn free but not come apart. This forms a protection for
the universal joints and shafting in case of sudden shocks and
over-loads, which may be caused by too great an angle on the
universal joint or by some obstruction getting into the machine.
These bolts can be quickly replaced by standard '¾" x 1,½ 11 Ma-
chine Bolts, a supply of which should be kept handy. Warning:
Never use a hardened steel pin or bolt here as this may
cause serious damage elsewhere.
It is important when assembling the telescoping drive shaft to
the tube that the universal forks on the shaft are in the same
plane with the universal forks on the tube.
For power take-off driven machinery other than Case, make
a close study of the manual furnished with the power take-off
driven machine.
When hitching other than Case power take-off driven ma-
chines to a Case tractor, the hitch and the drive shaft dimensions
· should conform closely to Figure 37. When the drive shaft is fur-
nished by companies other than Case, it may be necessary to
shorten the tube, as well as the shaft. ~

MOST FARM ACCIDENTS, like industrial, home, and

highway accidents, are caused by the failure of some individ-
ual to observe simple and fundamental safe rules or precaution.
For this reason farm accidents, just as other types of accidents,
can be prevented by recognizing the cause of accidents and
doing something about it before the accident occurs.
-National Safety Council.

55
 Wheel Weights
Under some conditions a certain amount of slippage will be experienced when
using a rubber tired tractor to pull heavy loads. Your Case Tractor has been de-
signed with sufficient weight to handle all average loads under usual farm con-
ditions. However under exceptional conditions which produce slippage, weight
- can be added in two ways.
The first method is to attach cast iron weights to the wheels. A set of weights
for the rear wheels is available under No. A1071AA and consists of four weights,
two to be used on each rear wheel, each weight weighing 150 pounds.
The second method to add weight is partially filling the tires with water.
Either of these methods are satisfactory. Which ever one is used, it is al-
ways desirable to have the weight in the wheels only when heavy work is being
done. Operating your tractor with unnecessary weight merely consumes· more
fuel and throws a greater load on the gears, shafts and bearings.
Cast iron wheel weights are preferable to using water in tires, but in many
cases water is satisfactory because it is cheaper, and it will work satisfactorily if
certain precautions are taken. Wherever freezing weather is to be expected it is
necessary to either drain the tires of their water or use an anti-freeze solution to
prevent damage to the tir-es during freezing weather. At no time should the tires
be filled more than¾ full with water, which is determined by rotating the tire so
that the valve stem is at.the top of the wheel.
If there is no danger of freezing you can fill your tires with water direct from
a hose connected to a pressure water system by securing an adapter from your
tire dealer which will permit your connecting your hose directly to the tire valve.
If you plan to have water in your tires during freezing weather, you can pro-
tect your tires by using a calcium chloride solution. The appended table gives
complete information and the amount of calcium chloride necessary to use in the
tires of your Model "L" Tractor. Calcium Chloride can be purchased for about
$1.50 to $2.00 per 100 pounds from dealers who handle builders supplies.
. .
The solution should be made by pouring calcium chloride slowly into the
proper amount of water.
The easiest method of putting calcium chloride solution into a tire is by
means of a small hand force pump which you may already have or which you can
purchase from your dealer. The only special feature is that the hose must have
a connector to fit the regular tire valve. Another method of filling the tire is by
syphoning from a tank placed eight or ten feet above the tire to be filled or by
using a barrel or tank connected to an air pressure line. Each of these methods
are shown in Fig. 38.

56
 Fig. 38. Filling Tires

AMOUNT OF WATER AND CALCIUM CHLORIDE

TO FILL TIRES THREE-FOURTHS FULL
CALCIUM CHOLRIDE ANTI-FREEZE SOLUTION
WATER
SAFE FROM FREEZING SAFE FROM FREEZING
ONLY
TO 'TO
20° BELOW ZERO 40° BELOW ZERO
POUNDS* POUNDS•
TIRE SIZE GALLONS POUNDS GALLONS CALCIUM WEIGHT GALLONS CALCIUM WEIGHT
WATER OFMll WATER OF MIX
CHLORIDE CHLORIDE

7.50 - 20 10.2 85 9.3 19.3 96.7 8.7 30.8 103

12.75 - 28 45.7 380 41.8 86.6 434. 38.8 137.6 461
13.50 - 28 50.4 420 46.2. 95.8 481. 42.8 152.1 508
• A heaping quart of Flake Calcium Chloride weighs approximately 2 lbs.

REAR WHEEL TIRE INFLATION TABLE

TIRE SIZE DESCRIPTION PRESSURE
Without wheel weights or water 12 lbs.
1, 2, 3 or 4 wheel weights per wheel 12 lbs.
12.75x28 Liquid in tires 12 lbs.
6-ply Liquid and 1 wheel weight per wheel 12 lbs.
Liquid and 2 or 3 wheel weights, per wheel 14 lbs.
Liquid and 4 wheel weights, per wheel 16 lbs.

Without wheel weights or water ~

12 lbs.
13.50x28 1, 2, 3 or 4 wl:ieel weights per wheel 12 lbs.
Liquid in tire 12 lbs.
6-ply Liquid and 1, 2 or 3 wheel weights, per wheel 12 lbs.
Liquid and 4 wheel weights, per wheel 14 lbs.
NOTE: When plowing, increase air pressure in furrow wheel tire 4 lbs.

57
 SERVICE SUGGESTIONS
We are listing herewith under their respective heading some of the
possible causes of engine difficulty. If you are having any difficulty with
your engine it may be well to check your engine with this list.

ENGINE HARD TO START

Spark Plugs
Defective wires
Wires connected to wrong plugs
Defective magneto
Gasoline flow obstructed
Water in fuel supply
Improper gas mixture
Valves not seating properly
Valve tappets improperly adjusted
Intake manifold leaking
Improper timing

ENGINE MISSING
Spark plug fouled
Wrong gap in spark plug
Defective wiring
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Manifold gasket leaking
Valves warped
Valves or tappets stuck
Valve tappets improperly adjusted

ENGINE OVERHEATING.
Lack of water
Radiator clogged
Water hose clogged
Slipping fan belt
Leaky valves
Improper gas mixture _
Carburetor choke valve closed
Spark retarded too far
Improper timi~
Lack of oil
Using too heavy an oil
Engine too closely housed not permitting sufficient air
Oil diluted

58
LOSS OF POWER
Valve seats worn
Valves sticking
} Fuel may contain too great
·valves lagging a percentage of lead ··
, Piston rings weak
Piston ring stuck
Improper gag mixture
Improper timing
· Exhaust stopped up
Oil diluted
Air cleaner choked with dust

ENGINE KNOCKS
Carbon in cylinders
Loose connecting rod bearings
Loose main bearings
Loose piston pins
Worn piston and cylinders
Magneto timed too early
Loose valve tappets
Overheated engine
Tight pistons
Loose flywheel
· Lack of oil or water

FAULTY CARBURETOR
Carburetor improperly adjusted
Valves leaking
ln~ake manifold leaking
Gasket leaking
Shut off valve closed
Water in fuel
Sediment in fuel tank

EXCESSIVE SMOKE FROM EXHAUST

Carburetor needle valve open too far lBlack
Carburetor float sticking {Smoke·
Poor piston rings lBlue
Lubricating_ oil too thin {Smoke
Too much oil in crankcase,

EXPLOSION IN EXHAUST PIPE

Ignition too late
Weak spark
Exhaust valve holding open
Exhaust valv-e warped

59
POOR COMPRESSION
Valves burned or pitted-need grinding
Valves not seating ·
Valves sticking
Valve tappets sticking
Valve tappets set too close
Piston rings weak
Piston rings broken
Piston rings stuck
Loose or defective spark plugs
Cylinder head loose
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Oil too thin
Scored cylinders
Worn pistons and cylinder

IS THE BEST_ INSURANCE·

AGAINST AN ACCIDENT
-National Safety Council.

60
 SPECIAL GROUTERS, RIMS AND ATTACHMENTS
Composite No.
41-AA 8" Extension rims made up with extension hub and 14 spokes.
43-AA 6'' Cast spade lugs for 8" extension rim. 28 to set.
44-AA 5" Steel spage lugs for 8" extension rims. 28' to set.
45-AA 6" Cast spade lugs. 56 · to set..
61-AA l"x14½" pins for use in splitting tractor..
67-AA 8" Skid rings for front wheels.
96-AA 6" Extension rims.
103-AA 2" Guide rings for front wheels.
115-AA Spring steel scraper for each drive wheel.
A-187-AA Angle iron grouters (3½"x2½"x%"x21½").
138-AA Road grouters (2"xl"x18") • 56 to set.
259-AA Road Bands .
489-AA 6" Steel spade lug. 56 to set.
524-AA Front Extension Rims.
557-AA 6" Steel spade lug for 8" extension rim. 28 to set.
572-AA 7" Cast spade lug. 56 to set.
578-AA 7" Cast spade lug for 8" extension rim. 28 to set.
863-AA . Raised hitch to be used when pulling power take-off driven
machines. · · ·
A1071AA .Wheel Weights .
4709-A Special 16" diameter engine pulley with 6½" face gives higher
belt speed operating hammer mills. .

61
NOTES
 l4t#]
FORD
I\EW HOLLAN) INTERNATIONAL
HARVESTER

ALLIS-CHALMERS

<~m\!ffi.CIDm)o [B CATERPILLAR
TRA.CTOR.8 Caterpillar and Cat are Registered Trademarks of Caterpillar Tractor Co.

All the above are Trademarks of others, used here in a descriptive

sense to refer to the products of others.

Printed in the United States of America

No patent liability is assumed with respect to the use of the information contained in this manual. While every precaution
has been taken in the preparation of this manual, the producer assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions.
Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from use of the information contained in this manual.

All instructions and diagrams have been checked for accuracy and ease of application; however success and safety in
working with tools depend to a great extent upon individual accuracy, skill and caution. For this reason, the producers
are not able to guarantee the result of any procedure contained in this manual. Nor can they assume responsibility
for any damages to property or injury to persons occasioned from the procedures. Persons engaging in the
procedures do so entirely at their own risk.