Professional Documents
Culture Documents
REPORT
2017
Contents
Contents
STRATEGY
Our Detox Commitment..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 3
Challenges .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 4
Our Detox Strategy................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 5
Milestones.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6
INDEX
List of Tables..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................24
List of Figures........................................................................................................................................................................................................................24
Abbreviations........................................................................................................................................................................................................................24
Contact.......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................24
Challenges
The path of hazardous chemicals in the textile industry
Chemicals within the textile industry can be hazardous for mankind, animals and the environment –
hence a sea change in the manufacture of textiles and footwear is of utmost importance.
1. Production
Apparel and footwear is 5. Use
produced in large quantities ... and finally worn and washed
around the world, partially in by the consumers.
processes requiring intensive
use of chemicals. 6. Waste Water
Dangerous chemicals are
released into waste water...
4. Sale
... sold online or in retail
businesses...
8. Food
... and finally also reach
3. Transport drinking water and food.
... transported by ship, train, or
plane...
Chemical Supply Chain Trainings and More Sustainable Circular Economy Transparency
Management Management Audits Product Range
What goes in? From the suppliers, Via trainings we We are gradually Textile Take-Back Sustainability
What goes out? sub-suppliers help our suppliers replacing products stations in our at Kaufland
Full process to the wet and the wet in our range with branches are is becoming
transparency for a process facilities process facilities to equivalents which contributing to the transparent
clean production. – the Kaufland help themselves, are less harmful for establishment of a thanks to our
Our chemical Supply Chain while audits the environment Circular Economy communications
management is Management enable us to track and have a longer for textiles and via many channels.
built upon the is an essential development shelf life. footwear.
Clean Factory component to progress.
Approach. enforce the Detox
requirements along
the supply chain.
Milestones
What we have achieved since signing the
Detox Commitment ACHIEVING
DETOX
COMMITMENT
Chemical Management
Clean Factory Approach: What goes in?
What goes out? Full process transparency
for a cleaner production.
Kaufland pursues a Clean the final product (output) to municate with colour manu- measures are taken. They are
Factory Approach, wherein our ensure clean manufacture. We facturers, so that dangerous tracked and assessed again
aim is not solely the improve- do, however, need transparent chemicals can be eliminated during the re-audit.
ment of our own production procedures with defined input more quickly in a joint effort. The production of own
lines at Kaufland but the chemicals. Furthermore, Kaufland brand and own import prod-
entire chemical manage- This is why Kaufland has suppliers are thoroughly trained ucts is a complicated proce-
ment from input, handling, determined permissible input on chemical management dure planned long in advance.
and storage to disposal. The chemicals (Chemical Positive including the subject matter of It takes almost a year from
Clean Factory Approach is a List/CPL), based on the anal- input chemicals. Output control commissioning our suppliers,
system of various steps for ysis of chemical inventories, is implemented via Kaufland production, and transport
full transparency and con- and has passed this on to all Detox audits and regular waste to the delivery of a product.
trol, aiming to achieve clean suppliers with the Manufac- water testing. If the standards Hence, this is also how long
manufacture. Since signing turing Restricted Substances are violated or the use of pro- it takes for our guidelines on
the Detox Commitment in List (MRSL). The Kaufland CPL hibited chemicals is detected exclusion and substitution of
December 2015 Kaufland has has a high standard. The list during an audit, a cause analy- dangerous chemicals in the
thoroughly evaluated pro- is continuously adapted and sis is carried out to identify and production of our products to
duction procedures. It is not assessed by an external expert. eliminate the source of possible reach Kaufland branches.
sufficient to simply establish In order to create the list contamination. After the audit
chemicals requirements for Kaufland continues to com- implementation improvement
CAUSE ANALYSIS
SUPPLIER
RESULT
PRODUCT QA ANALYSIS*
CLEAN
TRAININGS CPL MRSL PRODUCTION
OUTPUT
RESULT
CAUSE ANALYSIS
KAUFLAND AND SUPPLIER
* Implementation in 2018
We support our suppliers in signing the Kaufland Detox responsibilities, and system- We are currently developing
building a Chemical Manage- Commitment our suppliers atic procedures are meant to criteria to assess wet process
ment System. accept our requirements. help our suppliers ensure safe facilities per country. In turn, a
All Kaufland suppliers are Where poor waste water general handling of chem- consistent management sys-
provided with the Kaufland quality is detected it can only icals and gradually replace tem is beneficial for Kaufland
Detox Commitment and the be improved if our production hazardous chemicals with as it makes the process of
MRSL and are required to pass partners change and adapt harmless substances. For this, elimination and substitution
them on to their production their production practices. A Kaufland provides suppliers transparent and measurable.
and wet process facilities. By structured approach, defined with a Chemical Positive List.
Examples for good chemical management: Examples for bad chemical management:
MRSL
7 53 98
Since 2017 we have been ... at 53 wet process facili- ... Kaufland carried out 98
carrying out water tests per ties... water tests in 2017.*
country. In 7 countries...
BANGLADESH
22
CHINA
41 PAKISTAN
14
INDIA
15
OTHERS
6
* Water tests from all active wet process facilities are included (water supply: 45 tests, waste water: 53 tests). The list also takes into
consideration tests not commissioned by Kaufland, but which fulfilled our requirements and which were uploaded into the database of
the Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs (IPE). (Kaufland commissioned a total of 53 water tests.)
85
85 water tests are free of Reduction in AP/APEO
AP/APEO* detection
98+2
AP/APEO in water supply*:
44 threshold values adhered to 1 threshold value violated
77+23
AP/APEO in waste water*:
41 threshold values adhered to 12 threshold values violated
Kaufland is making good progress to reach its aim of zero discharge by 2020. Waste water is tested during the first step; if prohibited
substances are detected the water supply is tested in a second step.
88
88 Water tests free of PFC* Reduction in PFC detection
93+7
PFC in water supply*:
42 threshold values adhered to 3 threshold values violated
87+13
PFC in waste water*:
46 threshold values adhered to 7 threshold values violated
Kaufland has narrowly missed the “zero discharge by 31/12/2016” aim. Achieving the aim was made more difficult as the water supply
already contained PFC in three cases. Water supply is used during production procedures and therefore it is difficult for wet process
facilities to eliminate these chemicals. In order to exclude PFC the water supply would have to be cleaned.
* Data basis: water supply: 45 tests, waste water: 53 tests, a total of 98 water tests in 53 wet process facilities
52
In 2017 a total of 52 waste water tests were published on the
data base of the Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs
(IPE).
Chemical detection: adhered/violated*: Chemical detection violation after water supply and waste water*:
Threshold value adhered to Threshold value violated Water supply Waste water
92 93 93 92 90
88 88 86
85
81
68
53
39
30
19
17
13 12 12 13
10 10 9 11 10
8 7 8
6 5 5 6 4 4 6
1 3 1 2 2 3 1 0 0
AP/APEO
PFC
Heavy metals
Phtalates
Azo dyes
Organostannic compounds
Chlorobenzenes
Chlorinated solvents
Chlorphenoles
SCCP
AP/APEO
PFC
Heavy metals
Phtalates
Azo dyes
Organostannic compounds
Chlorobenzenes
Chlorinated solvents
Chlorphenoles
SCCP
The most frequent threshold violations were detected with heavy metals and brominated or chlorinated flame retardants. Excluding
these chemicals is more difficult as the substances are already contained in supply water. Water supply is used during production
procedures and therefore it is difficult for wet process facilities to eliminate these chemicals.
The Kaufland Supply Chain preliminary stages themselves facilities to carry out water information to the concrete
Management is an essential to a widely spread supply tests and upload the results order.
component to enforce the change with numerous to the IPE database. In In the next step we aim
Detox requirements along the preliminary stages. As further preliminary stages to draw conclusions from
supply chain. It consists of commercial organisations the (dry processes, raw materials/ our product tests: can we
the essential core elements suppliers are our contractual ingredients suppliers) having create a connection to certain
communication, training, partners, i. e. the main direct influence is much preliminary stages? It is also
auditing, consulting (if challenge for us is having more difficult due to the our long-term goal to create
necessary), documentation, direct influence on preliminary large number of involved negative/positive lists for this.
and transparency. stages commissioned by them. parties. We are tackling this Certainly, our demand for
A transparent supply In terms of wet processes, by demanding transparency transparency also goes for our
chain is essential to exclude we have already layed a from our suppliers at product customers and stakeholders:
hazardous chemicals along foundation we are consistently level: which materials are we publish an updated list of
our entire supply chain. Supply building on. Transparency used and which preliminary our active suppliers every year.
chains can vary: from a full- is further increased by the stage delivers them? It is our
scale supplier operating all commitment of wet process systemic goal to connect this
Over the past few years This is more proof that them to initiate change and and their wet process
awareness for clean we are moving in the systematic procedures in facilities are audited and
procedures in the textile right direction. To further their organisations. Beyond trained. However, raising
and clothing industry has strengthen this awareness simply cooperating we also of awareness is not a task
grown significantly, especially and a new way of thinking want to inspire ambition solely for our suppliers and
in important production we have made it our task and a passion for making a their preliminary stages. We
countries like China and to pass on expertise to our positive contribution. also regularly train our own
India (source: Öko-Tex study suppliers and support them In practice, this means employees in purchasing and
“The Key to confidence”). as best we can, enabling that all Kaufland suppliers quality control.
To make wet process facilities easier to compare and measure we have developed anassessment system. The results of water tests
as well as of audits form the basis of assessment. Suppliers are sorted into categories depending on the degree to which they comply
with audit requirements: green, green with corrective actions, red/failed with corrective actions and red (see graph).
Grading Standards
GREEN 100
RED 0–60
»» D
id the wet process facility »» W
as the wet process »» A
udit result and
support the audit? facility willing to implement cooperation in general
corrective measures?
These questions form our opinion and influence the final result and levels from A to D (see graph).
Outlook 2018
The assessment criteria will be revised and tightened within a process of continuous improvement. Kaufland is aware
that wet process facilities will possibly achieve worse results in the next assessment due to this. However, in order to
achieve our goals by 2020, we consider this to be important.
AUDITS
How we audit our suppliers - content and sequence
Points of assessment
General Detox-specific
»» Operating licence »» Environmental report/
Permit
»» Building safety
»» Chemical management
»» Management system
»» Water treatment/Waste
»» Social standards
water treatment
* After successful implementation of planned measures and after one year at the latest
CONSULTATION PROCEDURE
During first or re-audits we guide our suppliers through the procedure.
First Detox audits carried out by Kaufland auditors and external consultants
Base documentation: current water test results, chemical inventory
Initial conversation Factory tour: review Discussion of all External consultant Plan of measures signed
of all points on the anomalies and creation supports detailed by all parties
Kaufland Detox of an individual plan of analysis of findings and
checklist measures chemical management
Detox re-audit
During a Detox re-audit, shortcomings from the first audit are reviewed
and wet process operation receives further consultation.
DETOX TRAININGS
Which kind of training our suppliers receive
Training focus:
71/13 59 53 5
Kaufland has 71 active 59 trainings of wet process 53 Audits 5 Re-audits
wet process facilities in facilities as well as merchan-
13 countries disers and purchasers for In 2017 audits focussed on During the re-audits
Kaufland in Germany active wet process facilities. deviations identified in the
The number of wet process audits were reviewed and new
facilities has decreased Kaufland has already been issues found in the process of
from 89 to 71 compared delivering intensive courses re-auditing were recorded.
to the previous year (as of for its suppliers and their wet
31 December 2017). This process facilities since 2016;
difference is also due to they began with a respective
the fact that in 2016 all start training in Hong Kong,
wet process facilities were Shanghai, Dhaka, Mumbai,
recorded, including inactive and Istanbul, and a footwear
suppliers. In 2017, only active workshop in Shenzhen.
wet process facilities were In 2017 the courses
considered. focussed on “on-site
training” in wet process
facilities regarding chemical
management (incl. handling,
expertise, and storage of
chemicals) and the Kaufland
MRSL.
Fotonachweis: iStock
It takes a systematic and more aware and responsible approaches to offer an durability of our products as
societal transformation to consumers. Therefore, we are ever broader range of more well as the packaging of our
make sustainable changes gradually replacing products sustainable products: using own brand products and their
in our consumer society. in our range with equivalents environmentally friendly labelling all play an important
As a trade organisation we which are less harmful for materials like organic cotton, role.
consider it our responsibility, the environment and have a recycled fibres, and raw
among other things, to longer durability. materials from renewable
enable our customers to be We subscribe to various resources, increasing the
FIVE APPROACHES
Our measures and aims for a more sustainable product range
We have developed various the shape of 100% polyester, Recently we started fastness (in parts > than
approaches in terms of fibres/ is our main focus. We are developing and implementing Öko-Tex 100). Furthermore,
raw materials, product range intensively looking into options a product life cycle manage- our minimum requirements
composition, durability, and to at least replace polyester ment (PLM) system. This is a include standards for other
labelling and packaging in fibre in parts with recycled meaningful project for all par- characteristics which represent
order to change our procedures fibres. ties as the system also aims to the durability of our products:
and reach our aims for a more A further aim is to offer support other non-food areas
sustainable product range. articles that comply with the beyond the textile industry. »» Tensile strength and seam
Cradle-to-Cradle approach. We are certain that the re- strength guarantee the
1. Sustainable Fibres/ We plan to launch a focussed sulting changes to procedure, durability of the material.
Raw Materials sustainability campaign with significantly improved data
We still aim to use as many respective items. We will not quality, and higher transpar- »» Abrasion resistance and
materials as possible which are only offer these products but ency will take us a large step pilling tests guarantee the
produced based on natural also explain the concept of closer to sustainable product material surface remains
fibres. In practice this means: a Circular Economy to our development. longer.
customers with respective
»» We want to continuously marketing material in print 3. Durability »» Tests regarding washing,
increase the share of and online media. To introduce the most ironing, and care resistance
GOTS-certified fibre durable products to the (dimensional stability,
2. Product Range market we are implementing appearance) are carried
»» When using modal and Composition/Design numerous measures. Apart out.
viscose fibres we want to The approaches we subscribe from using high-quality
continuously increase the to in terms of using sustain- fibres (see 1. Sustainable The minimum requirements
share of branded fibres able fibres are of course Fibres/Raw Materials) we are subject to constant
from Lenzing. considered when planning our are setting standards, in review and are continuously
product ranges and articles. part above the industry improved to meet changing
Currently approx. 32% of our The employees responsible for benchmark, with our Kaufland requirements.
textile products are made this are developing advertis- minimum requirements. An We also adhere to specific
from synthetic fibres. Polyester ing campaigns and products example for this are our standards for durability of
fibre, partially in mixtures or in according to our strategy. stipulated values for colour our products within certain
material and product groups. also consistently turned our customers in packaging. developed folding boxes
For example, for cotton attention to sustainability. Unfortunately, we cannot with windows (to see and
articles we demand the use We have already started fundamentally forgo feel the product) as well as
of combed cotton. A further replacing all synthetic care packaging. We have been waterfall packaging and
example comes from our labels and brand labels in our using polybags with inserts sleeves. A majority of our
baby articles where (apart baby and children articles to protect the article and products has already or will
from some exceptions based with 100% cotton. We are also make the content of the switch packaging during 2018;
on material) everything must consciously avoiding the use of package clearly visible. Our and by mid-2019 we will be
be wash and tumble dryer optical brighteners. aim is certainly to avoid or fully plastic-free across our
resistant at 60°. completely forgo the use of entire range of textile article
5. Packaging plastic. packaging (apart from some
4. Labelling Due to our sales We have intensively exceptions based on the
In terms of labelling concept we are forced to explored options for product).
used on our products we have sell our textile products to alternative packaging and
5 21,400,000
Development of 5 approaches with measures 21.4 million of 38.8 million imported textile
and aims for: articles are GOTS-certified.
fibres/raw materials
durability
product labelling
packaging
Data basis: Complete order volume textile import HKG Ltd. YTD, excl. footwear
Circular Economy
The Kaufland Textile Take-Back Scheme - how we
support the establishment of a Circular Economy
To us, establishing a Circu- very important. This is why it is customers. For this reason, nal textile recycling enables
lar Economy for textiles and crucial to us that independent Kaufland offers agents space agents to reintegrate more
footwear is an aspect of agents also take back textiles for the returns in its branches/ than 90% of returned textiles
acting sustainably and hence and footwear from Kaufland on its premises. Professio- into the Circular Economy.
North East
292 28 Branches 60 Branches
Transparency
Sustainability at Kaufland is becoming
transparent thanks to our communications strategy
We want to inform our animals, and the environment. In order to foster customers is just as important
stakeholders using as many At the same time, we awareness for more here as communicating
channels as possible about aim to provide them with sustainability within society internally with our employees.
the challenges of production opportunities to take more we are making our activities
of textiles, apparel, and aware decisions and make a as transparent as possible.
footwear for mankind, change. Communicating with our
COMMUNICATION MEASURES
FAIR WORKWEAR
Kaufland is the largest buyer of Fairtrade cotton for employee uniforms in the world
In October 2017 Kaufland supplied new workwear to 130,000 branch employees in Germany and in six further European countries.
All polo shirts, blouses, and shirts in the new collection are certified according to the GOTS and Fairtrade standards. In a first step
2.4 million sustainable items of clothing were distributed. This is approximately a quarter of all Fairtrade cotton sold annually in
Germany. This currently makes Kaufland the largest buyer of Fairtrade cotton for employee uniforms in the world.
2,400,000
2,400,000 items of fair
workwear for 130,000
employees
Progress 2017
All results at a glance
1. CHEMICAL MANAGEMENT
NEW Re-audit 5
Wet process facilities re-audited (2016: 0)
5. CIRCULAR ECONOMY
6. TRANSPARENCY
* Complete order volume of textile imports excluding footwear is drawn upon for further consideration.
Index
LIST OF TABLES
Progress 2017: Chemical Management.............................................................................................................................................................. 22
Progress 2017: Supply Chain Management...................................................................................................................................................... 22
Progress 2017: Audits and Training....................................................................................................................................................................... 22
Progress 2017: More Sustainable Product Range......................................................................................................................................... 23
Progress 2017: Circular Economy............................................................................................................................................................................ 23
Progress 2017: Transparency..................................................................................................................................................................................... 23
LIST OF FIGURES
The Path of Hazardous Chemicals in the Textile Industry.........................................................................................................................4
Our Detox Strategy.......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
Milestones.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 6
Clean Factory Approach............................................................................................................................................................................................... 7
Examples for Good/Bad Chemical Management........................................................................................................................................... 8
Results Chemical Management...........................................................................................................................................................................9–11
Results Supply Chain Management...................................................................................................................................................................... 12
Audit Assessment Standards..............................................................................................................................................................................13/14
Audit Grading Points...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 14
Consultation Procedure............................................................................................................................................................................................... 15
Results Audits and Trainings...................................................................................................................................................................................... 16
Results More Sustainable Product Range.......................................................................................................................................................... 18
Results Circular Economy............................................................................................................................................................................................ 19
Results Transparency..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 21
ABBREVIATIONS
APEO: Alkylphenol ethoxylates
AP: Alkylphenol
CIL: Chemical Inventory List
CPL: Chemical Positive List
CSR: Corporate Social Responsibility
DMF: Nitrosamines and dimethylformamide
GOTS: Global Organic Textile Standard
IPE: Institute for Public and Environmental Affairs
MRSL: Manufacturing Restricted Substances List
PAH: Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons
PFC: Poly- and perfluoride chemicals
SCCP: Short-chain chlorinated paraffins
CONTACT
Kaufland Stiftung & Co. KG
E-Mail: csr@Kaufland.de
Website: Kaufland.de/textilien
Date of publication: June 2018