Professional Documents
Culture Documents
With legal junk out of the way, I would like to thank you for purchasing this PDF for the Din Djarin Pouch
templates/patterns. You’re contribution helps support my family as well as helping with
the pursuit of many passions as a maker and wanting to make this my sole source of income. It
means a lot having your support and what you’ve given goes right back to making more things like
this available. Again, it means a lot to me and I appreciate it very much. Thank you.
The templates are not formal and do not have standard indicators for seam allowance or overlaps,
folds, etc. The templates I’ve made are a simple design. Please refer to D23 photos & mine of the
pouches and how they are put together for a better idea of the construction & thread color used
and where items may have or may not have been stitched together. If you’re using an oiled chrome
tan leather like I did for these pouches additional sewing will be needed because glue (Barge) will
not hold it alone. When printing these make sure to uncheck fit to page or they will not print in the
correct scale. They are sized to fit 8.5” x 11” paper.
When cutting out the templates keep in mind that leather is pretty forgiving so you do not have to
be perfectly straight on the lines. Just keep it as close as possible. Cut all templates out following the
outside lines.
Dashed lines and the solid lines on the main part of the pouch patterns (Big T Shapes) on these
patterns indicate fold lines unless there is an indication that it is a stitch reference guide. Please
refer to the pics I included showing what the patterns should look like when they’re cut out. I did my
best to include at the stitch locations the color of thread I believe best matches the D23 reference
photos of the screen used outfit. As for the stitching reference, if you are able to glue the leather you
are using then obviously you won’t have to stitch in all of them. They are there for reference though
should you choose to stitch everything together. A combination of gluing and stitching is strongest.
Locations that have the “T” shape that indicate to “Align Cover Edge Here” is to indicate lining up the
edge of the center cover piece for that pouch and center of the flap. The vertical line is only there to
indicate the center so you can eyeball the cover. The belt slide straps are what will create the loop for the
belt/bandolier to hold the pouches to them. On the pouches with cover accents these are stitched to
the back to create the belt loop slide without the having an additional piece of leather.
All references for a rivet, stud thread hole or Stud hole are in an approximate location. Due to
the nature of leather working these are only for reference only and should not be taken as a “punch hole
here” mark. Please check your folds with your chosen insert for shape and mock up and dry fit your
pouches to mark the final location of those areas and remember to use the appropriate size punch
for the hardware you’re using. The holes should be tight but allow a rivet or thread for a ball stud to
pass through.
1
For the pouches using button head studs to close I used LQ Industrial 8x10x10 mm size. They can
be found on Amazon. For the stitching I recommend bonded nylon threads that will hold up to
abuse. For contact cement to glue things together, Barge is the contact cement of choice for
leather. The brass rivet I use for the front belt pouch is a small size brass rapid rivet from Tandy
Leather (item # 1271-11). The bandolier pouch uses a hidden snap closure and I used a Dritz 7/16”
open ring snap that I had and they work very well. They can be found at Walmarts, fabric stores and Amazon.
One special note about the bandolier pouch where the hidden snap goes. If you decide to use a 7/16” open
snap as I did and the leather you’re using is 5/6oz or so like mine you will have to skive (thin out) the leather
there where you press the receiver portion of the snap into it. If you don’t the snap will fall out. You will also
have to skive the area for the stud that will be in the other section of the pouch if the leather is about a 5/6 oz
leather. You may have to skive the areas even if the leather you have is thinner. It just depends on the snaps
you’re trying to use if you are going that route. Remember that the snap part you put on the closure strap
needs to be facing out so when it is folded over and glued there it will be facing the front of the pouch.
When I printed my patterns out to test them I used 110# card stock to print them on. It worked very well and
I would suggest printing them on card stock rather than regualr paper if your printer can handle heavy card
stock. It will make tracing/transfering the pattern to your leather a lot easier.
Stitching Reference
Stitching Reference
All Pouches
Bandolier Pouch Left Calf/Shin
4
Bandolier Pouch Scaled to be 3 3/4” x 3 3/4”
Side View Back View Front Open Flap Front Completely open
Front Pillow Case Seam Back Pillow Case Seam before belt loop Back Pillow Case Seam after adding belt loop
Bottom Pillow Case Seam Inside of Pouch Pillow Case Seam Example of dry fitting the pillow case seam
If the bottom seam is made as a pillow case seam that is hidden inside and then flipping the pouch right
side out to sew the final seam that can be seen in the back it would be more accurate than that pictured.
This is just an easier way to sew if you’re sewing it. The screen used pouch looks like it was actually glued
in place and not sewn. I am just sewing mine because of the leather I am using. If you can sew yours that
would be the easiest option and most likely the least amout of headaches. If you want to sew the pillow
case seam please refer to the pattern and the notes listed on there. If you have any questions please
contact me. Tis may look like an easy pouch but it can get complicated rather quickly. LOL!
5
Left Knee/ Shin/ Calf Pouch Scaled to be 3” x 3”
Front Top
6
Back of Belt Pouch (Updated Pattern)
Scaled to be 4” x 4”
Front Side
For this Back pouch if you’re using it for the Death Watch version in the show the
pattern is more open on the sides & you can cut the shaded area off of the template
based on some recent screen shots I’ve been given (6/21/20). With the lack of
reference for DIn Djarin I am inclined to leave it full height for now until there is
better reference.
The pouch on the left leg by the calf is constructed the exact same way as this pouch.
It is just a little smaler and has a different center accent piece that makes up the belt
loop.
I would once again like to thank you again for your purchase of these patterns and guide. It really does
mean a lot to me and helps tremendously. I look forward to seeing what you make with these patterns.
Should there be any questions about these patterns or anything else about the construction of them
that may not make sense in this guide please contact me. I can be reached through Facebook or at one
of the following emails. JSFDesigns127@aol.com, Jeremy@JSFPromotions.com. My regular job is fairly
demanding and takes up a lot of time, but I will get back to you as soon as I can.
Jeremy S Finch
Jeremy S Finch
8
Left Leg Pouch
Template
Stitching Reference
Stitching Reference
Stitching Reference
Stud
head
Stitching Reference
hole
Align Cover
Edge Here Dark Brown Thread
head
Stud
hole
Back of Belt
Pouch
Template
Stitching Reference
Back of Belt
Stitching Reference
Stitching Reference
Pouch
Template
Align Cover
Edge Here
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llowan - Stitchin
amA gr
efe
Se r
en
TOP
ce
he
re -
Circular Pouch
o thin it ut.
Groove Lines
o
mt
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a
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es
bo
as
tt
om
of wc
ma pillo
in pie a
ce if doing
Bottom
Center
Stitching Reference
Hidden Snap
Stitching Reference
Stitching
Beige
Belt Slide Strap
Stitching Reference
Stitching Reference
Bandolier Closure Strap
Stitching Reference
Closure Strap
holder
Hidden Snap
Front
Stitching
Skive this Beige
area to thin
13
Front Belt Pouch
Template
Stitching Reference
Stitching Reference
Stud
head
hole
Brass Rivet
Approximate Location
Stitching
14 Beige