CPCCCA3003

CPCCCA3003
Install flooring systems
Learner Guide
Learner Guide
CPCCCA3003 - Install flooring systems
Contents
Introduction .........................................................................................................................................................3
SECTION ONE ....................................................................................................................................................4
SECTION TWO .................................................................................................................................................16
SECTION THREE ..............................................................................................................................................21
SECTION FOUR ................................................................................................................................................26
SECTION FIVE ..................................................................................................................................................31
SECTION SIX....................................................................................................................................................37
Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

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Learner Guide
Introduction
This Learner Guide & Workbook supports CPCCCA3003 - Install flooring systems.
This unit of competency specifies the skills and knowledge required to plan, prepare, set out and install
timber and steel flooring systems to support the internal and external walls of a residential building, meeting
all relevant requirements of the National Construction Code (NCC), Australian Standards, work health and
safety (WHS), and Commonwealth and state or territory legislation and National Association of Steel-Framed
Housing (NASH) standard for steel-framed construction in bushfire areas.
The unit includes installation of flooring systems in bedrooms, living areas, kitchens, bathrooms, balconies,
and decks.
Completion of the general construction induction training program specified by the model Code of Practice for
Construction Work is required for any person who is to carry out construction work. Achievement of
CPCCWHS1001Prepare to work safely in the construction industry meets this requirement.
No licensing, legislative or certification requirements apply to this unit at the time of publication.
Before you begin

The content of this learner guide is designed to provide information relating to criteria outlined in the unit of
competency
For detailed information regarding this unit of competency click on the link
https://training.gov.au/Training/Details/CPCCCA3003

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Learner Guide
SECTION ONE
Plan and prepare
What you will learn

1.1 Read and interpret work instructions and plan sequence of work.
1.2 Plan all work to comply with laws and regulations, the National Construction
Code (NCC), Australian Standards, work health and safety (WHS) and
environmental requirements, manufacturers’ specifications, workplace
requirements, drawings and specifications.
1.3 Select tools and equipment, check for serviceability and report any faults.
1.4 Select and use personal protective equipment (PPE) as required for each
stage of the task.
1.5 Inspect work site, locate services, assess hazards and apply risk controls,
including required signage and barricades.
1.6 Select materials required for task, calculate quantities, handle safely and
prepare and position ready for use.

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Learner Guide
Read and interpret work instructions and plan sequence of work.

Before you start work, you need to be aware of any company policies, procedures or requirements that you must comply with.
While these policies and procedures may vary from company to company, they will commonly cover quality requirements including:
Internal company Manufacturer

Workplace operations
Relevant regulations, Australian standards quality policy and specifications, where
and procedures
standards specified
The tools, equipment

Safety procedures to The quality of work
and material to be
be followed required
used
Laws and Regulations
Many aspects of building and construction are governed by laws and Regulations. For example,
National Construction Code AS 4440 Installation of nail HB330 Living in bushfire-

(NCC) plated timber prone areas
AS 3959 Construction of
AS 1684 Residential timber Building a House Framing
buildings in bushfire-prone
framed construction Practices
areas.
AS 3660 Termite AS 2870 Residential slabs The Australian House

management and footings Building Manual
Statutory and regulatory authorities include federal, state and local authorities administering applicable Acts, regulations and codes
of practice.
Assessing site conditions
Construction site conditions should be inspected and assessed before any work is started. This process can include:
Locating site sheds for the

Determining the position of
Identifying potential hazards safe storage of materials and
power supplies
equipment
Locating suitable access

Identifying a water supply Identifying waste disposal
(entry) and egress (exit)
and sanitary arrangements procedures and facilities
points.

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Learner Guide
You’ll need this information to determine:
What tools and equipment are available
Where and how the tools and equipment will be used
Supporting facilities like power sources that are available so you can complete your tasks
What is required when planning and preparing to work safely with tools and equipment
Safety (OHS/WHS) in relation to site conditions is to be in accordance with state or territory legislation, regulations, codes of
practice, organisational safety policies and procedures, and project safety plan including but not limited to:
Emergency procedures, including extinguishing fires, organisational first aid requirements and evacuation
Handling of materials
Hazard control
Hazardous materials and substances
Operational risk assessment and treatments when assessing the site conditions must be conducted in accordance with the safe
operating procedures for the worksite/workshop. operational risk assessment and treatments could include but are not limited the
association with:
Earth leakage boxes
Lighting
Power cables, including overhead service trays, cables and conduits
Restricted access barriers
Surrounding structures
Traffic control
Trip hazards
Work site visitors and the public
Working at heights
Working in confined spaces

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Learner Guide
Working in proximity to others
Working with dangerous materials
Organisational first aid
Personal protective clothing and equipment prescribed under legislation, regulations and workplace policies and practices
Use of firefighting equipment
Use of tools and equipment
Workplace environment and safety
Building subfloor walls and piers
When the building structure rises from the ground it will involve working at some height; therefore, it is important to be aware of
your responsibilities as outlined in the codes of practices for safe work at heights in your state. The building is taking on some
structure and therefore can involve some risk, you must also remember the guidelines from the Building Code of Australia (BCA)
about your objectives. The objectives of the BCA include having buildings that are structurally safe, and healthy to build and to live
on.
The designer of the building will have consulted the relevant regulations for the construction type and the area where the
construction is to occur, and the plans and specifications should reflect the requirements needed. As you build from these
documents, remember that they have everything detailed for a reason. You are not to change anything unless the designer or
engineer has been consulted.
Codes can be awfully specific, not just for the size and type of nails/fasteners to be used, and their spacing’s. An ability to read and
understand plans and specifications is the first step in constructing a sound building.

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Learner Guide
Plan all work to comply with laws and regulations, the National Construction Code
(NCC), Australian Standards, work health and safety (WHS) and environmental
requirements, manufacturers’ specifications, workplace requirements, drawings
and specifications.
Whenever you’re using any tools, plant, or equipment, it’s vital that you do so safely and in accordance with WHS legislation,
Regulations, and codes of practice.
All sites will have a site safety plan that outlines safe work practices and the actions that need to be taken in certain situations,
including:
Evacuation procedures and Working safely and responding

Who to contact in an emergency
details of first aid personnel appropriately in emergencies
Construction worksites are an incredibly dangerous place to be. There are many safety hazards around every corner. Therefore, it
is so important that workers at these sites know and follow safety rules set forth by you. To keep the workplace a safe
environment, use these five helpful tips.
Hazards and risks
Construction sites contain many dangers or hazardous situations which need to be identified and eliminated where possible. You
can achieve this by inspecting the site and completing or referring to safety documentation.
Potential hazards when installing flooring systems include but are not limited to:
Injury from flying Injury from insecure

Strains and sprains Electric shock
debris and dust wall frames
Injuries from nail Falls from heights of

Injury from explosive
guns, power saws over 2 metres / falls Falls from a ladder
tools
and drills from a work platform
Job safety analysis (JSA) A job safety analysis (JSA) is a procedure which helps integrate accepted safety and health principles
and practices into a particular task or job operation. In a JSA, each basic step of the job is to identify potential hazards and to
recommend the safest way to do the job
JSA for erecting and securing wall frames, wall plates, ledger plates include but are not limited to:
The activity
Potential hazards
Risk controls
Responsible personnel
Codes of practice and legislation applicable to this work
Register of all workers engaged in this Scope of Works
Statement: I have read and understood the above JSA, and have completed the following workplace induction training courses:
WorkCover-accredited Construction Induction, Company induction, Site-specific induction, including coverage of this JSA

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Learner Guide
Safe work method statement (SWMS) A Safe Work Method Statement (SWMS) is a document that outlines the high-risk
construction work activities to be carried out at a workplace, the hazards that may arise from these activities, and the measures to
put in place to control the risks.
Safety data sheet (MSDS) A Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) is a document that provides health and safety information about
products, substances or chemicals that are classified as hazardous substances or dangerous goods.
These documents are often mandatory on construction sites to ensure the safety of all workers, site visitors or members of the
public. Most construction sites have policies and procedures that tell you how to report hazards, accidents or incidents
(near‑misses). If you have an accident, near‑miss or spot any potential hazards on site, you should contact your employer or
supervisor immediately and let them know.

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Learner Guide
Select tools and equipment, check for serviceability and report any faults.
Installation of flooring systems involves marking out timber, which requires the use of marking out tools, for example:
Tape Pencil
Chalk line
Square
and
Cutting the timber requires the use of cutting tools such as:
Hand saws
Power saws and
Bench-mounted
docking saws/drop
saws (or portable
combination saws)
Nailing all the members together requires the use of:
Hammers
Nail guns
and
Fixing flooring members and components into position requires the use of tools such as:
Spirit levels Floor clamps String lines Hammers Nail guns
Having all these tools in good working order will make the job run more smoothly and efficiently. The main materials will be the
timber or steel used in the frames. Sheet bracing requires the use of approved bracing board, and nails are mostly used as the
main fasteners. (Specific types of nails must be used to achieve the required strength)
Organising tools, plant and equipment
Once you’ve determined what work task you’re going to do (the job) and where you’re going to do it (the site), you must make sure
you’ve got:
The right tools Plant and equipment

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Learner Guide
Select and use personal protective equipment (PPE) as required for each stage of
the task.
When hazards in the workplace can't be eliminated or reduced by other risk controls, employers must provide personal protective
equipment and clothing (PPE).
Employees must be instructed in how to use PPE and clothing provided by the employer. They should be told why the use of PPE
is necessary before they start the job for which it has been provided.
Where PPE is provided, you must use it as you have been instructed to do.
Employers should make sure that the PPE they purchase complies with the relevant Australian Standard.
They must make sure that PPE is stored in a clean and fully operational condition, that it can be easily found when needed and
that it is safe from interference and damage.
PPE should be inspected regularly and before use to make sure it is in good working order. Damaged or defective PPE must be
reported at once. It must be tagged (to prevent its use until it has been repaired) or thrown away and replaced.
There are times when it will be necessary to use personal protective equipment (PPE) to protect workers from being affected by
certain hazards.
However, to most effectively remove or reduce the incidence of occupational injury or illness, the risks associated with exposure to
workplace hazards must be controlled at the source.
The following lists - in order of preference - the control strategies which should be considered for each hazard. This is the
'preferred order of control' or the 'hierarchy of control'. In some instances a range of control methods may be needed.
Substitution or Administrative Personal Protective

Elimination Engineering Controls
Modification Procedures Equipment
PPE should only be used:
for situations where

when no other while other controls for emergencies and other control
control method is are being installed or during maintenance methods don't
possible; implemented; activities; provide enough
protection.
PPE should not be used:
just for the sake of it;
throughout an entire workplace/department unless it has been identified as

genuinely necessary.
How to select PPE
Once the need for PPE has been established, the next task is to select the proper type. Use the following guidelines to help ensure
the best PPE is selected. Remember the employer must do all the following in consultation with the HSR:

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Learner Guide
Match the PPE to the hazard. There are no shortcuts to PPE selection. Conduct a complete hazard
assessment and choose the right PPE to match the hazards.
Get expert advice and shop around. Discuss your needs with an occupational health and
safety specialist and trained sales representatives. Ask for alternatives, and check into
product claims and test data. Any proposed PPE must be approved and consistent with
Australian standards
Involve the workers who need to use the PPE in evaluations. Various models should be
trialed by workers at the workplace so they have the opportunity to evaluate them.
Consider the physical comfort of PPE (ergonomics). If a PPE device is unnecessarily heavy
or poorly fitted it is unlikely that it will be worn. Use every opportunity to provide flexibility in
the choice of PPE as long as it meets required legislation and standards.
Evaluate cost considerations. The cost of PPE is often a concern and disposable options are not
always cheaper in the long term.
PPE refers to anything used or worn to minimise risk to workers' health and safety. This may include, but is not limited to:
boots ear plugs face masks gloves goggles hard hats
high visibility
respirators safety harnesses safety shoes sunscreen
clothing

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Learner Guide
Inspect work site, locate services, assess hazards and apply risk controls,
including required signage and barricades.
As a structure starts to appear, there are more chances of dangerous situations occurring, so some barricading and signage may
be necessary. As the structure is developing some height, there is a chance of someone falling or of having something fall on
them. Or there may be sharp, unprotected objects in the construction (e.g. ant caps and pegs; ant caps can have the very sharp
corner bent over and pegs may need caps on them).
The priorities when planning are to:
Eliminate dangers as much as Barricade any danger if necessary Place signage that will alert people
possible to keep people out to any other dangers
When the floor frame is being constructed at height, then plans need to be put in place to do that work safely. Obtain a `safe work
at heights’ code or similar booklet from your state or territory, and study this regarding your site.
If there is a chance of falling from a height where there is enough risk of injury (specific heights may vary with each state and
territory in Australia), then a hierarchy of controls must be implemented, as follows:
1. Design the work to avoid the dangers associated with the height.
2. If there is no way to avoid working within the height zone, then design ways to work there safely. For example, could a
platform be built next to the work to remove the danger? If this isn’t practical, then you may need to harness the workers so
that if they do fall, they will be restrained and not be injured. Harnesses may require adjustment during the work process to
cater for the job you are doing. Also consider the potential for tools to fall and injure others, and ensure you minimise this
hazard. Of course, harnesses need securing to something, so they may not always be practicable.

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Learner Guide
Select materials required for task, calculate quantities, handle safely, and prepare
and position ready for use.
The main things that affect timber durability are moisture and insects. The BCA and the Australian Standards set out requirements
for the way flooring systems are constructed so the structure will perform as needed, and so the effects of moisture and insects are
minimised.
A local government authority in your area will approve or reject each part of the construction depending on whether it meets the
requirements of the Australian Standard. It is essential that you have a thorough understanding of the standards applicable to the
construction you are doing; these standards are based on research and years of experience.
Any timber species may be used for floor framing, provided it is kept dry; that is, not exposed to weather, well ventilated, not in
contact with or close to the ground.
The subfloor structure is designed to support vertical loads. In many instances the subfloor is quite low and there is not much
tendency for the structure to fall over. However, when the piers and/or walls start to get taller the likelihood of collapse can become
greater. Bracing may need to be added, and this should be done in accordance with the Engineers details.
Organising materials
Establishing the materials needed for a task and making sure they’re located where they are needed is vital for all construction
tasks. Information about the materials needed, details of the preferred type or brand, and required characteristics is generally
found in the plans and specifications for the building project.
Examples include:
Size Quality Fire resistance Colour and quantity
The materials must meet certain standards, particularly in relation to safety and application, for example how and where materials
can be used.
These are called quality requirements and details of these can be found in:
Legislation and Australian Company policies Manufacturers’

codes of practice Standards® and procedures specifications
Materials should be available where they are needed and when they are needed, for example:
Storage of materials when they

Just before the tradesperson arrive and how they’ll be safely
who needs them is ready to start handled must also be considered
To make sure they’re not in the

way, stolen or damaged
Many of the materials used in the construction industry have hazards associated with them, and you should read the material
safety data sheets (MSDS) that apply to those materials. If treated timber is being used, then be aware of the recommended
cutting and handling procedures. MSDS information can be obtained from the supplier or manufacturer, or from the internet.

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Learner Guide
Environmental requirements are identified for the project in accordance with

environmental policies and procedures and statutory and regulatory authorities’
requirements.
All construction projects have the potential to negatively affect the environment by consuming natural resources and producing
waste.
In Australia, there are laws to make sure that damage to the environment is controlled and minimised. Most large worksites will
have an environmental management plan (EMP) to ensure that appropriate management strategies and practices are followed
during a project.
You must be aware of the impact of your tasks and work practices and your responsibilities about the site EMP.
When you use tools, plant and equipment, the potential environmental hazards include:
Noise pollution created by power Dust from cutting, planning and Soil contamination from leaks or
tools and power generation plant shaping tools spills of fuel, oil or lubricants
Toxic substances including

asbestos, timber treatments, Cleaning products
insecticides, solvents and

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Learner Guide
SECTION TWO
Set out and install support structure
What you will learn

2.1 Position support structure, stumps/piers to set-out lines, drawings and
specifications.
2.2 Install support structure.
2.3 Check support structure, posts, stumps and piers for level, plumb and
square.

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Learner Guide
Position support structure, stumps/piers to set-out lines, drawings and

specifications.
There are two options for supporting floor framing:
Dwarf walls around the outside and piers on the

Individual piers
inside
Unless the building is solid brick, it will have internal subfloor piers. Subfloor piers are constructed on a footing to support the load
of the floor and, sometimes, the building frame. If these piers are brick or masonry, then they will be set on the footings with a bed
of mortar. They may be constructed from steel, timber or concrete.
The pier may or may not require tying to the footing, depending on the location of the building. (This information will be shown on
the plans.) Best practice is to pour footings to height relative to other elements on the job, and this should eliminate the need to cut
the first masonry unit to get the required height for the finished floor level. Once the pier is constructed, the damp-proof course
(DPC) material is placed on the pier with an ant cap placed on the DPC. This is usually done just prior to placing the bearer;
otherwise, the wind may blow the ant cap and DPC away. This DPC is embossed so a good bond is obtained between bricks,
mortar and DPC. There are other types of approved DPC.
Sometimes subfloor piers are constructed from steel, concrete or timber posts. Steel is preferable in most cases because it is more
durable. Timber posts would be set in the concrete footing and the top cut once the concrete is cured. The top of the post is cut
with a joint to take the bearer at the required height. Any hardwood timber that is set in the ground must be of a durability class 1 or
2 with the sapwood removed or treated to H5 level. Softwood in contact with the ground must be preservative-treated to H5
(AS1684, Sections 1 and 3, and Appendix H). Preservative-treated timber can have hazards for people handling it.
Sometimes a hole is excavated, and the pier is placed into that hole at the correct height or left longer than needed and cut off
later. The post may be set in place with concrete or packed rubble. The plans for the building will show the details for the piers, and
these should be understood and followed.
Steel piers or posts are often inserted into the concrete footing and are then cut off to the required height once the concrete footing
has cured. A bracket is usually fixed to the top of the steel post so that a bearer can be secured to the post. Some steel piers are
`screwed’ into the ground until a satisfactory bearing strength is achieved.
Larger buildings use this concept by driving the pier into the ground as you would drive a nail into timber. These systems are
engineer-designed and may specify bracing if the posts are over certain heights. In the case of steel posts, there may not be a
need for DPC and ant cap; steel posts don’t transfer damp from the ground, and because termites travel by building covered
tunnels, they must start at their tunnel from the start of the steel post and that makes them visible from close to the ground.
Regular inspections will reveal if they are active on the building.
Steel pier, bearer, and joist system
Between placing footings and the construction of floor framing, a subfloor wall (or dwarf wall) must be constructed. This may
consist of a brick wall, concrete block wall (or other masonry units such as mud brick), or as timber wall for the lower floor of a two-
storey construction. (For two-storey construction we usually eliminate bearers and use bigger section-size joists, called `deep
joists’).
If the subfloor is constructed from brick, then usually a bricklayer would lay the bricks to a set-out done by the builder on strip
footings. It is important to ensure that the subfloor has the support where it is needed, and the members are in line. (If you must cut
a bearer to fit on crooked piers, then this may reduce that bearer to being classified as a single-span member, which will affect its
allowable span.)
Deep floor joists tend to tilt over when loads are placed on them, so sometimes they require blocking at their ends as well as
strutting in the middle. Composite `I’ beams are a common type of deep joist material.
Deep joists supported on a steel beam over a garage
When placing footings, it is best to place the finished concrete at a height that will suit the bricks (or masonry unit) you intend to
use for the subfloor wall and have any steps in the footings at step heights to suit the height of that brick so the subfloor wall can
be started with whole bricks.
The alternative is to cut the first bed course of bricks, which will incur more cost. Because the finished floor height is often indicated
on the plans, the subfloor wall needs to be calculated from the finishes floor level to get to the starting height for the brickwork.
This will involve knowing what type and size bricks are going to be used in the subfloor wall. Of course, if the subfloor consists of
steel or timber posts, then they may be cut to the required height later.

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Learner Guide
Install support structure

Setting out the subfloor frame
The base for a floor frame is the subfloor structure.
This structure has a few purposes:
To support the floor frame at the To be a break point for moisture

To be durable enough to last for at
required span of the lowest floor between the foundation material
least the life of the building
frame members (i.e. the ground) and the floor frame
To be capable of being braced to

To be able to be tied to the footing
withstand sideways movement of
and floor framing if required
the building
Subfloor structures can be dived into two main types: dwarf continuous outer wall with inner piers; and isolated or island piers over
the whole of the construction.
The BCA has some guidelines about correctly finishing the space under the floor. Section 3.4.1.2 states that the subfloor space
must be cleared of all vegetation and building debris, be evenly cross-ventilated, contain no dead air spaces, and be graded to run
water from the area. Subfloor clearance must be at least 400mm if termite barriers need periodic inspection, although on sloping
sites the height may be reduced to 150mm within 2m of the external walls.
Dwarf continuous outer walls are generally constructed with masonry units. These units may be standard metric bricks (laid to
230mm long X 110mm wide X 76mm high with approximately 10mm bed and 10mm perpendicular joints), or concrete blocks
(which may be 400mm X 200mm X 200mm). Other masonry units may be used, such as autoclaved aerated concrete blocks or
panels; however, bricks would be the most common.
This outer wall is laid on the strip footing, which may or may not be stepped depending on the slop of the ground. If the footing is
sloped, then the concrete should have steps in it to suit the heights of the masonry to get a level bed for the next course (the term
`course’ refers to one row of masonry units laid on a mortar bed; mortar sticks the masonry to the concrete and allows levelling of
the masonry).
If the building is to be brick veneer, then the subfloor will have engaged or attached piers beside it to take the bearers (single-skin
walls over a certain height also need piers beside them). This outer wall will be extended up to the roof height and become the
brick veneer for the building—the outer skin.
The main brick wall is tied to the wall frame with wall ties, and this forms a solid structure for the outside of the building. When a
garage wall is constructed from brickwork (or masonry) it will need support. If there is no inner frame in the garage to tie the wall to,
then engaged or attached piers are used to take the weight of the roof structure over the garage.
There’s a requirement for all isolated piers to have extra support if they extend over certain heights (up to 1350mm high, piers may
be made 230mm X 230mm). Generally, an isolated pier can be constructed by laying two bricks beside each other, the direction of
the bricks alternating for each course.
This ties each course of brickwork into the previous course and forms a 230mm X 230mm pier if you are using standard metric
bricks (230mm long X 110mm wide X76mm high). Once the pier extends to a height of over 1350mm, then it needs to increase to
470mm X 470mm in size. For example, if a pier is required to be 1700mm high, then 1350mm of it can be constructed from 230mm
X 230mm brickwork, and at least 350mm (or increments to suit the brickwork) at the base of the pier will need to be constructed
from 470mm X 470mm brickwork.
If the building has some type of cladding, then the dwarf wall will usually be positioned so the cladding overlaps the dwarf wall
enough to shed water on to the outside of the dwarf wall (e.g. overlap of 20mm), thereby providing some weatherproofing to the
subfloor area. Both brick veneer and clad buildings with continuous dwarf walls will still have isolated piers within the outside walls
to support the main internal floor frame and floor.

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These piers are unseen, and often `commons’ bricks are used. These `commons’ are often used because they are cheaper, as
they are usually second’s bricks, and their colour may vary within the batch. When cladding is installed, a tilting batten may be
needed at the bottom of the wall, so the lowest cladding plank is tilted out to match the higher planks.
Having piers over the whole of the building results in the subfloor being open between the piers. Generally, the cladding will be
aligned to overlap the outside piers, with the cladding fitting all the way down past the bearers and overlapping just over the piers
(approximately 20mm). This covers the unsightly bearers and joists and protects them from the weather.
The piers may have to be tied into the footing, depending on where the building is being built in Australia. The BCA specifies the
different areas that require special tie-down methods. Follow these methods closely. For example, there may be a requirement that
steel rods are inserted into the concrete footing, with the bearers or joists bolted to these rods. The rods will usually be threaded
with a cranked (90° bend) on one end to tie the rod into the concrete.
A hole is drilled into the bearer, joists or bottom plate and the floor frame is bolted to the footing. Some states require the threaded
rod to be continued up to the roof, and the nut and washer to be used to bolt the roof framing to the footings.
These methods require the builder to insert the cranked rod into the footing at the time of pouring and, using joining nuts, continue
the rod through to the roof by drilling holes through the frame as you thread the rods into the frame.

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Check support structure, posts, stumps and piers for level, plumb and square.
Internal piers should be placed in a way that will make it easy for the later placement of bearers. This usually means lining the piers
up straight and keeping their heights the same over the whole job (depending on the bearer thickness and finished floor level),
although some minor packing of bearers is allowed (AS 1684, Section 4.2.1.1).
A major job before construction starts is to organise the materials. To do this you need a thorough understanding of the plans and
specifications that will indicate the size and type of materials to be used for each member, and the spacing’s for the job. This will
have been determined from the timber framing code (AS 1684). Working out the quantities for each of the different members
requires some knowledge of maths and how the construction is going to proceed.

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Learner Guide
SECTION THREE
Install bearers
What you will learn

3.1 Mark and cut bearer material to lengths for joining over supports.
3.2 Make arrangements for damp proof course and termite shield to be installed
where specified by regulations.
3.3 Locate and fix bearers and check and adjust for square, in-line and level.
3.4 Fix waling plates for decks and balconies to external walls.

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Learner Guide
Mark and cut bearer material to lengths for joining over supports.
Working out the sizes of bearers and joists requires a reasonable knowledge of the timber framing code, AS 1684. The sizes will
be listed on the plan documentation, so it is not necessary to read the code for this information.
However, we will look at a summary of how the sizes are determined by the building designer so that you understand the
importance of working exactly as per the plans and specifications.
Everything, even the fasteners, is specified for building and must be adhered to. If you have some left-over nails from another job
and decide to use them for the current job, and they are not the specified fasteners for this job, then you may be building a
construction that could fail.
The Australian Timber Database describes a simple beam or joist situation as being comprised of four elements:
The span between The load to be

the two support supported by the
points beam or joist
The size or cross-

The grade of the
section of the
beam or joist
beam or joist
These four elements are interdependent: if one of the elements changes, then the rest also need to change. For example, if the
grade is increased, then the size or cross-section of the beam or joist can be reduced (www.timber.net.au)
However, there is a lot more to determining the sizes of members than these tables indicate, such as the loading on the floor
framing.

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Decide for damp proof course and termite shield to be installed where specified by
regulations.
When the subfloor is low to the ground, then air may not circulate well under the floor, and it is important that ventilation is
designed into the building. The BCA (section F, part 1.12) specifies the square millimetre area that needs to be allowed for as a
percentage of the floor area. Protection of the building from termites is also mandatory in most states, and the BCA outlines the
requirements in this matter.
The general rule is that if there are parts of the building that cannot be visually inspected regularly, then there must be physical or
chemical barriers to stop termite entry: On top of this, it is usually a requirement that termite caps be placed on piers to divert the
termites out around the cap to a place where they can be seen. Because the subfloor frame of a building is close to the ground and
is usually not inspected very often, it is wise to consider the type of material you choose to build the framing from.
While the Australian Standard (AS 1684, Section 3, part 3.4.2 and Section 4, part 4.1.2) does not specify any species of timber to
use, it is important to consider using good quality, durable materials. The design and detailing of the wall cladding, flashing and
damp-proof course needs to be designed so that the floor framing is protected from the weather and from rising damp from the
ground.
Different parts of Australia have different regulations about the subfloor ventilation needed for a building, based on the relative
humidity of the location. Australia has different areas of humidity percentage, and it is necessary to know the level for the position
where you are going to build.
The highest humidity levels are obviously around the coastal fringes of most of Australia, with the next level being along the Great
Dividing Range and in further from the coastal strip.
The driest area of Australia is in the inland and there is not as much ventilation needed under the houses built there because it
doesn’t get as moist.
You will see that if the ground is sealed with an impervious membrane, then the minimum square millimetre ventilation
requirements can be halved. It is important to spread the ventilation spaces around the subfloor walls because good ventilation is
achieved by having clear, unobstructed spaces for air to move freely around the building and under the floor. In solid masonry
homes, there must be provision for the air to circulate through the inner wall subfloor spaces.
The damp-proof course is placed on the masonry piers or dwarf walls (a DPC is not needed on steel piers) and then a metal ant
cap is placed on the DPC over the pier. As mentioned earlier, the ant cap doesn’t stop ants; it is there to make termites build their
tunnel out around the ant cap, thereby making their movements visible, so that specialist can be consulted, and the termite colony
destroyed.
There is an Australian Standard (AS 3660) for building practices that needs to be adhered to for the control of termites, and this
indicates that a building set up off the ground needs to be constructed so that termites must build their tunnels out into a space that
can be inspected regularly.
Subterranean termites are a major cause of damage to buildings in many parts of Australia, to the tune of millions of dollars each
year. These insects live in colonies underground and travel from their nests to get food from wherever they can. Unfortunately for
us, they like to eat some of the materials with which we build houses. However, they don’t stay and feed on all timber types
(although they may eat through these types to get to other materials).
Some parts of Australia don’t have much of a problem with termites, while others have a serious problem with termites, while
others have a serious problem.
Termites don’t like to be exposed to the sunlight or open air and so build tunnels to travel in if they are forced to go above ground.
They can build tunnels very quickly and over distances of many metres to get to their food. Once located around our buildings, a
specialist is needed to destroy them. The key for us as builders is to build such a way that any attack on our building can be
discovered and dealt with, such as by using ant caps on piers and on top of dwarf walls.
Ant caps must have no breaks in them; when using continuous ant caps on dwarf walls, the caps must be connected using special
joins- for example, soldering or folding the join (refer to AS 3660). Remember that the whole aim of the ant cap system is to force
the termite activity out into the open. Regular inspections for termite activity are necessary over the whole of the building life.

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Learner Guide
Locate and fix bearers and check and adjust for square, in-line and level.
Once damp-proof course and ant cap system are installed the bearers can then be laid out. Bearers span between subfloor
supports (subfloor walls and/or piers) and are classed as either single span or continuous span. This classification affects the
amount of load the bearer can have placed on it. Simply put, `single span’ means the member spans between two supports only,
and `continuous span’ means the member spans three or more supports with no cuts in that member that could affect its strength.
(AS 1684, Section 2.7.5 has a more thorough definition.)
The general rule is to run the bearers end-to-end along the longest side of the building. This means that the joists will run along the
shortest side of the building; however, the ultimate decision will depend on which direction will look best for the floorboards when
they are laid. Usually, floorboards are laid in as long a run as possible- for example, the length of a hallway or of a long narrow
room.
The bearers are placed with their thickness sitting on the pier or wall. This gives the best strength for spanning the openings. An
example is to use 100mm X 75mm bearers and sit the 75mm face on the pier or wall. Placing bearers on their narrow face means
they tend to overturn easily. For this reason, you must be careful not to walk on bearers or joists that are not secured. When
constructing the bearer part of the subfloor, it is best to lay the bearers down on their widest face and only turn them up when you
are ready to fix them into position.
The method chosen to fix a bearer into position will depend on the tie-down method shown on the plans. These tie-down options
are determined by the wind classification for the building, and this wind classification will be calculated using a series of data such
as where the building is in Australia, where it is in relation to other structures, and the surrounding topography of the site.
At this stage you don’t need to know how to calculate this; you just need to know that you must build to the plans because the
building has been designed specifically for that site. In many cases the bearer will be set into position on the ant caps and will be
held there by gravity and the remainder of the floor structure as it is built.
If required, a bearer may be checked out to enable it to be levelled: however, there are limits about how much is allowed to be
checked out (if more information is required see AS 1684). Packing is a last resort because it can fall out. Correct timber choice will
normally eliminate this problem; however, packing is acceptable if incompressible, corrosion-resistant material is used over the
whole of the load-bearing surface.
Fibre-cement or plastic material is ideal for packing because it remains stable during different moisture conditions and doesn’t
break down over time. When dealing with large section size material such as bearers, it is hard to get straight pieces that don’t
have some spring or bow in them. This can be accommodated in the construction by putting minor springs up and letting the
subsequent weight of the floor load the member and take out the spring. If the spring is too much, then ‘crippling’ the member over
a support may be allowed.
This is done by cutting part of the member directly over a support and letting it straighten with loading. However, this will mean the
member may be classed as single span instead of continuous span, thereby affecting its load-bearing ability.
Bearers must join over a support and must be joined in accordance with AS 1684, Section 4.1.1. (Not all these acceptable methods
are used commonly on-site. You should check to see what works and is used in your area.)
In summary, all cuts must be located over a support, and there must be a minimum of 50mm bearing on the support for each
member. Some engineered products are designed to join between supports, but these are not dealt with here. Bearers may be
joined in line or lapped, depending on latter joist placement and edge of building alignment.
Alignment can be done with the use of laser or optical levels, or simply by using a string line and three spacer blocks. This is fast,
accurate and an easy way to adjust the bearer alignment at the position of any misalignment. If a tie-down of a bearer is required,
then make sure you don’t breach the termite shield. Follow the regulations for each situation closely.
Watch the video ‘How to install a subfloor’ at https://www.bunnings.com.au/diy-advice/flooring/subfloor/how-to-install-a-subfloor
Fix waling plates for decks and balconies to external walls.
What is a waling plate?
Timber member bolted to the face of a truss to support intersecting rafters or trusses. May also be used to support intersecting
battens or purlins.
If your decking structure is to be fastened to a building, then you will need to fix a ledger. If your deck is free standing, then you can
skip this section.
The waling plate should be securely fastened to the house using suitable fixings. The waling plate is made from a length of timber
that is being used to construct the deck frame and is made from 150mm * 50mm treated timber. Most places only sell this size

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Learner Guide
timber in 3.6 metre lengths and so it may be necessary to join the ledger, but in this case the air vents are in the way and so the
ledger will be made from three lengths of timber.
Mark out and drill holes through the ledgers using a suitable wood drill. The size of the hole will depend on the fixings that you are
using. Here we are using a combination of M12 * 180mm through bolts and frame fixings. If you have an assistant this is much
easier, if not you can support the ledger on some bricks.
Hold the waling plate against the wall and ensure that it is level using a spirit level, now mark through the holes that you have
drilled into the ledger using a pencil or marker. Remove the waling plate and drill the correct size holes for the fixings that you are
using into the masonry.
To ensure that the waling plate does not touch the wall we are going to use stainless steel washers as spacers. The spacer needs
to be 10mm and so we are using 7 stainless steel washers on each bolt.
Now push the waling plate back onto the thru bolts and level up the waling plate using a spirit level. Once it is level you can put on
a washer and then tighten the nut to the specified torque using a torque wrench.
Ensure that the second waling plate is exactly level with the first waling plate by using a long spirit level that spans the gap
between them.
As well as using the thru bolts we are using some frame fixings as well, these are inserted through the holes in the waling plate
and knocked into the holes in the brickwork, before tightening them with a screwdriver. A 10mm spacing is also achieved here by
pushing the fixings through the waling plate and adding the washers before offering the waling plate to the wall.
For further information, please follow this link: https://www.safeworkaustralia.gov.au/system/files/documents/1705/mcop-

preventing-falls-in-housing-construction-v1.pdf

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Learner Guide
SECTION FOUR
Install floor joists
What you will learn

4.1 Set out location for floor joists using spacings in accordance with drawings
and specifications.
4.2 Check floor joists for straightness, then fit and fix to line and level.
4.3 Fit and fix supporting blocks and trimmers around doorways and openings.
4.4 Cut, fit and fix trimmers to support sheet flooring joints.

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Set out location for floor joists using spacings in accordance with drawings and
specifications.
At this stage there should be a nice, level working surface ready for set-out and placement of the joists. The construction is off the
ground now, and this introduces the need for care when moving around on the bearers and joists.
A good rule of thumb here is never to stand members up on their edge until they are fixed into position. A 100m X 50mm joist will
roll over easily and tip you off if it is standing on its edge and you stand on it. However, laying it down gives it much more stability.
It is dangerous to work up on narrow members that are unfixed in position. Avoid this as much as possible and you will avoid injury.
Before any joists are placed on the bearers it is wise to mark out the position of the joists on to the bearers, considering any
features of the building such as openings, stairs, and special load-bearing needs. At this stage you must plan in the placement of
any sheet flooring so you can allow for their joins.
The ends of sheet flooring need to be joined over a joist, and this will need planning at the mark-out stage. A well-marked-out job
will make the placement and fixing of joists straightforward. When the bearers are in position and with the plans nearby you can go
down each side of the building and mark on to the bearer any joists that must go in a particular position.
For example, there will usually be double joists placed at the ends of the building and anywhere where there is an opening in the
floor. (Usually there are only openings in first-floor frames for stairs.) Once these positions are clearly marked, you just go through
the remainder of the job and mark the joists at their maximum spacing.
Floor joists run perpendicular to the bearers and are spaced close together
Image source:
https://emedia.rmit.edu.au/dlsweb/Toolbox/buildright/content/bcgbc4010a/10_floor_systems/10_sub_floor_framing_floor_joists/page_002.htm
The joists will be spaced to provide support, depending on the type of flooring being used. If the spacing is 450mm centres, then
this means that the joists can be no further apart than 450mm between the centre of one joist and the centre of the next one. When
we mark out the positions on the bearers, we hook our tape over the first joist and mark along the bearer 450mm, put a mark with a
cross on the far side of that mark, and then continue doing this until we get to the last joist.
This is called `in-to-over’ measuring. It will give you the result of having joists spaced at maximum 450mm centres (the distance
from the right-hand side of one joist to the right-hand side of the next joist is the same as the distance from the centre of one joist
to the centre of the next joist).
The outside walls of most buildings tend to carry the most loads, and so we often place two joists at the outside of the building.
This is called laying `double joists’ and may consist of the joists being nailed beside each other if sheet flooring is being used, or
the two joists being placed with a space between them if strip flooring is being cut in between the wall frames. At the joist mark-out
stage, it is important to know the type of flooring system being used. There are two types: cut-in flooring and platform flooring.
With the joists marked out, it is simply a matter of starting at one end and nailing them into position. Usually we skew nail the joists
into position from either side of the joist. Further tie-down may be required by the plans, and this will be required at this time.
Sometimes blocking will be required under point loads in the structure, or trimmers may be needed for any openings or stairs.
Any tying-down connectors for framing must be made from the correct materials with the correct corrosion protection. This will be
specified within the plans and/or specifications for the job. Every job is different, and, as Section 9 of the timber framing code (AS
1684) shows, there are many alternatives for tying down various parts of a building.

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Check floor joists for straightness, then fit and fix to line and level.
Joists may need checking out or packing to ensure that their top surfaces are level to receive the flooring, provided the checking
out is within prescribed minimums and any packing is fixed and made from incompressible, corrosion-resistant material. Joints in
joists may be in line (e.g. when supporting wall plates or for fitted flooring) or may be lapped. Joists must have a minimum of 30mm
bearing, and the joist can be classed as single span or continuous span with the same guidelines as for bearers.
Any crippling (partial cutting of timber to allow it to straighten) of the joist to correct minor spring will affect its strength; therefore,
joists must be laid so that they straighten under loading. If this doesn’t straighten the joists enough, and they need to be partially
cut, then they must be treated as single-span joists. All crippling is to be done over a support. Single-span timbers have less load-
bearing capacity than continuous-span timbers. The straightening of joists can be done in the same way as the straightening of
bearers.
If a floor frame needs to span a large area for example, in first-floor construction the joists either are designed larger in size or are
specially engineered. We call these joists `deep joists.
Where the depth of floor joists is equal to or exceeds four times the breadth (deep joists), the joists shall be restrained at their
supports with either.
Solid blocking or herringbone

A continuous trimming joist provided
strutting between the outer pairs of
to the ends of joists above external
joists and between intermediate pairs
bearers or wall plates
at not more than 1.8 m centres

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Fit and fix supporting blocks and trimmers around doorways and openings.
There are many specially engineered deep joists can span large areas, and the design details that go with each type of engineered
joists must be followed closely when using them. If the joists are deeper than their breadth by four times or more—that is, greater
than 200mm high in the case of a 200mm X 50mm member—then they must be restrained at their supports to stop them from
tripping over.
This support can be a continuous trimming joist placed at the ends of the joists on the bearer, or may be solid or herringbone
strutting, spaced at maximum 1.8m centres. The problem with deep joists is that they can become unstable and the whole
structure may tip over. Strutting stabilises the structure and stops vibration and movement.
Solid strutting
Solid strutting consists of short pieces of joist material being fastened between the joists; these may be either in line or staggered.
Strutting and blocking for deep joisted floors

Image source: AS 1684 Residential Timber Framed Construction

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Learner Guide
Cut, fit, and fix trimmers to support sheet flooring joints.

It is important that openings in floors are framed up correctly because any changes to the structure by removing members and
redistributing loads may weaken the structure. In some cases, extra trimmers may need to be fitted to support the flooring.
The general rule here is that flooring needs to be supported on all edges. It is better to put in a trimmer now than to have a
`squeaky’ floor or try to put a trimmer in form underneath later. There may need to be blocking along the outside of the floor frame
when using deep joists. This will stop the joists from rolling over and will reduce vibration.
All tying down of joists and all trimming needs to be completed before starting the flooring. It is hard to get access to the subfloor
once the flooring is installed. The tie-downs are often built into the subfloor brickwork a minimum depth.
Block or herringbone strutting is installed to deep floor joists where specified in accordance with regulations.
Herringbone strutting
Is an alternative to solid strutting where small section sizes of timber are fastened diagonally from the top of the joist to the bottom
of the next joist.
Whenever there is an opening in the floor for stairs, then some trimmers will need to be placed to take the flooring and to enable
finishing off the openings. This blocking is usually done out of the joist material.

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Learner Guide
SECTION FIVE
Install flooring
What you will learn

5.1 Check flooring materials for suitability.
5.2 Confirm floor measurements and cut and prepare flooring materials for
installation with a minimum of waste.
5.3 Install and secure flooring to manufacturers’ specifications.

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Check flooring materials for suitability.

Cut-in flooring
Cut-in flooring involves constructing the floor frame (bearers and joists) and then placing the wall framing on the joists, laying the
roofing on the wall frame, and then fitting in the flooring once the roof covering is in place.
Cut-in flooring
Image source: http://www.flooringtech.com.au/unit2_insp_test_subfloors/section1_subfloor_systems/lesson3_timber_framed_subfloors.htm
This method is used when the floor material is strip flooring. Strip flooring should not get any weather on it. The flooring is brought
in after the roof is on, when some of the trades will have finished their work, to protect the flooring and reduce the likelihood of it
being damaged.
There is consequently no floor for the trades to walk on, so they either place temporary flooring in place or just walk on the joists.
Because both the wall frames and the flooring need to sit on the joists, those joists that fall under the walls must be doubled up and
spaced apart, to allow room to take both the walls and the flooring. Minimum bearing of the joists is 12mm.
Cut-in floors
Image source: AS 1684 Residential timber Framed Construction
Platform flooring
Platform flooring systems are where the joists are fastened into position and then the flooring is fitted, forming a platform. This is a
more common method because it is easier and safer; however, if decorative flooring is required, then it may be fastened on to this
platform later, rather than directly on to the joists.
Wall frames are marked out on this platform and then stood on it. Because the platform method means there is no cover from the
weather until the roof is on, it is not used where the flooring is going to be the finished product, unless some protection is given to
the platform. Compressed fibre cement sheet flooring is much more durable and is often recommended for wet area flooring.

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Learner Guide
Platform flooring
Image source: http://www.flooringtech.com.au/unit2_insp_test_subfloors/section1_subfloor_systems/lesson3_timber_framed_subfloors.htm

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Learner Guide
Confirm floor measurements and cut and prepare flooring materials for
installation with a minimum of waste.
How flooring quantities are calculated depends on whether the flooring is sheet or strip material. Sheet flooring material can be
ordered by the square metre or by sheet. If you can work out the area, then the supplier will work out the number of sheets based
on the available sizes of sheets. However, it is good to plan where the sheets will go on the job, and this starts with a sketch plan
of the job.
The quantity required for strip flooring depends on the effective cover of the selected board. Boards have a tongue and grove, and
the original board is wider than the effective cover of the finished board.

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Install and secure flooring to manufacturers’ specifications.

There are two main types of flooring: sheet flooring and strip flooring. Sheet flooring is constructed from particleboard or plywood
sheets, whereas strip flooring is usually made from pieces of solid timber, milled to fit together in strips of various widths. We won’t
consider floating floor systems in this chapter because they are not structural, and this type of flooring must be laid on a base that
takes the loads. Floating floors are a finishing system and are often laid on concrete floors to give a timber look.
In a house there are two main areas for floor design: wet areas and dry areas. Wet areas are those areas that are likely to have
water contact, and they need to be designed to withstand the damaging effects of water.
There are regulations regarding the design of wet areas, we will not deal with them here, except to say that the structural flooring
needs to be constructed to take the application of waterproofing treatments.
Sometimes builders use compressed fibre-cement sheets; they don’t move when in contact with water, and their characteristics are
like the tiles and bedding that are laid on them. Particleboard and plywood sheets may be used in some instances for wet area
flooring; however, they will need special waterproofing treatment.
Sheet flooring is usually fastened with a nail gun or screws. There are requirements for the spacing and type of nails to be used.
Nailing of strip flooring is done in such a way as to minimise the visual marks left from the nailing. Sometimes `secret nailing’ is
done, so that the finished product is clear of any marks at all, and the surface is smooth. However, boards over 85mm wide need
two nails at each joist, so they may not be able to be `secret nailed’.
If the flooring is for an external deck, then weatherproof materials must be used, and practises implemented that will minimise the
amount of expansion and contraction caused by the moisture. External flooring will need to be constructed using decking boards
that are designed for use in outdoor environments.
A house may have different types of flooring in different areas. Strip flooring is usually used where a timber floor surface is the
desired finish. This type of finish is usually more costly to install, so it would normally be confined to areas where a feature finish is
desired. Also, when installing a solid strip floor, the boards are usually expensive and may be subject to damage during rough
construction stage.
Others will lay the flooring and then put protective sheets over the finish boards. Either way, it is important to have some floor
platform on which to do most of the inside work. You don’t want to damage the expensive finish boards.
Sheet flooring will be placed on the pre-fixed joists with glue placed on the joists just prior to laying the sheet. Glue is placed under
the sheets to stop `creaking’ of the floor later. The sheet is usually fixed to the timber joists with a nail gun. Nails must be placed at
specified spacing’s along the edges and through the centre of the sheet. If the joists are steel, then Wing Tek screws may be used.
These fasteners have a wing of metal on the end with a drill point below the wing. The wing and drill point drills through the steel
joist. The thread on the screw will pull the sheet down tight. The cone-shaped head of the screw has grooves to countersink the
head into the flooring.
Installed flooring is completed in preparation for the next process.
The method used to fix down strip flooring will be determined by the desired finish of that flooring. If the finish allows for nail punch
marks, then a nail gun may be used to fasten the strip flooring with two nails per joist. However, if the desired finish specifies no
nail marks, then secret nailing methods will be used provided the boards are not too wide and need two nails per joist.
Strip flooring is fitted by fixing a string line down the longest run in the house and fixing the first strip of flooring next to this. This will
ensure a straight start, and then the other boards can be added from this straight line.
Fitting the last board against a wall may require the removal of part of the profile on the edge of the board, or even planning the
board to suit the wall. With strip flooring, a finish moulding will be placed on top of the flooring during the fix-out stage to provide a
gap-free finish to the junction between the floor and wall.
Tightening a sheet up against another sheet requires some skill. There is a groove on each sheet and a tongue fits into the groove,
helping to locate each sheet with the previous one. Getting this join tight is done with the use of a protective piece of timber, or an
off-cut of flooring, and a large hammer or a floor clamp.
Sometimes tightness can be achieved with a chisel and hammer by levering the flooring over. You usually must stand on the sheet
to be fastened once it is in position with the groove located with the tongue, and then tap the sheet into position with an off cut
protecting the edge of the sheet.
Your weight should stop the sheet from springing back, and you should be able to get a tight join. If more pressure is needed, then
floor clamps may help. These tools clamp on to the joist and have a screw thread that can be tightened to clamp the flooring.

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Start placing the sheet flooring by fixing the longest run to a string line, butting the end joins halfway over a joist. Then place the
next sheet as a half-sheet so that the end joins are staggered, staggering the joins on the ends makes the flooring stronger and is
a requirement of the code (AS 1684).
When strip flooring is used, the butt joins are to occur over a joist, and you cannot have two joins next to each other on the same
joist. If the ends are tongue-and-groove end-matched joins, the same joist span. When laying cut-in flooring, it is necessary to
provide 10-12 mm expansion joints between the flooring and the bottom plate of the wall frames.
A common floor material is particleboard sheet flooring. This is made from particles that are glues together in different thicknesses,
giving boards of different strengths, and then fitted with a groove along each long side. One of these rooves is fitted with a plastic
`tongue’, so two sheets can be lined up and keyed together. The tongue is coloured to indicate the strength of the sheet and how
far that sheet can span between joists.
Sheets come in standard sizes and cover a large area very quickly. Glue is placed on the joists prior to fixing (to stop movement
noise) and the sheets clamped together and nailed or screwed to the joists. Some type of finish will be applied to the completed
sheet floor, such as carpet or tiles. If the finish material is rigid, such as tiles, then flexible glue should be used to allow for
movement.
In most cases the flooring will be placed before the walls, roof and roofing are installed, and this means the floor may get wet
during construction. If this is a problem, then some protection will need to be applied to minimise damage to the flooring.
Maybe a flood coat of some product to seal the floor will be applied, or plastic will be laid and secured. Be aware that if rubbish and
materials are left on the flooring and dew or rain comes, then some damage may result. In addition, as floor work is usually done at
some height, a messy floor can cause trip hazards. It is therefore best to clean up and sweep at the end of each day’s work.

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Learner Guide
SECTION SIX
Clean up
What you will learn
6.1 Clean up, meeting all legislative and workplace requirements for safety,
waste disposal and materials handling.
6.2 Check, maintain and store tools and equipment and report any faults.

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Clean up, meeting all legislative and workplace requirements for safety, waste
disposal and materials handling.
Waste management
After every construction project, waste products like timber offcuts and damaged or surplus materials are left over and must be
disposed of appropriately. There are laws which outline how waste materials should be dealt with and large fines can be issued if
these are not followed.
Companies and contractors usually develop policies and procedures to make sure everyone complies with these requirements.
Facilities for waste management on a worksite or in a joinery workshop may include:
General and recycling Hazardous material

Dust extraction devices Cleaning supplies
bins containers and spill kits
Recycling materials
Carpentry materials are expensive and its good practice to recycle or reuse leftover material whenever possible. This also reduces
the amount of waste going to landfill – an important environmental consideration.
At the end of a task or project, material should be sorted and disposed of, stored or moved on to the next project accordingly.
Leftover materials in good condition and in useable sizes or quantities can be kept for future projects, if
appropriate storage is available
Some used materials can be salvaged but may have to be cleaned or treated first. Timber can be reused
or recycled but must be de nailed before relocating
There are special requirements for the disposal of hazardous waste and information can be found in safety
data sheets (SDSs). For example, CCA treated timber should not be burned, as it contains arsenic and the
fumes are toxic if inhaled. There are laws which restrict the disposal of asbestos and this is usually carried out
by licensed specialist
Cleaning
It’s essential that you clean tools and equipment thoroughly before you put them in storage or move on to a new project.
Wipe all tools to clear away dust or debris and remove substances like grease or sap. Pay particular attention to tools that have
been used in wet or damp conditions. Clean them with an oily rag to prevent rust and, if rust exists, remove it with steel wool or a
wire brush.
Use compressed air tools such as ‘blow down’ guns to clean dust from tools but take extreme care.
You should always wear appropriate PPE to avoid injury.

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Learner Guide
Lubricate moving or adjustable parts of tools to allow smooth, continuous operation. Lubrication reduces friction
between moving parts, helps them to last longer and makes the machine more energy efficient
Remove any fuel left in plant or equipment. Old fuel can go stale and affect performance. It could also present a fire
hazard if it’s not removed
Construction waste management and disposal
According to the ABS, construction and demolition waste may account for a staggering 40% of what ends up in landfills - with
about 80% of that being bricks and concrete.
Obviously, there’s a lot of waste involved in housing construction, especially if an existing house is being demolished. While
serious waste management plans are normally expected for big commercial and industrial project tenders, the same care’s not
often put into waste disposal for residential building.
For now, it’s still relatively inexpensive and easy to dispose of general construction waste in landfills, although this is likely to
change dramatically soon. Increasing production costs and regulations that require lifecycle assessments or other energy
efficiency measures for building materials, methods and designs are likely to make residential construction waste a serious
consideration.
Recycling construction waste
Some builders – particularly those with a focus on sustainability and efficiency - work to ensure that materials are recycled and
reused. This may include training subcontractors to categorise and separate waste on-site before it’s disposed of, to ensure that it
goes to the right places.
Demolishers often do a good trade in reselling things like picture rails, skirting boards, floorboards, doors, ornate windows and
frames, light fittings and so forth, and will often deconstruct or dismantle rather than simply demolishing a home.
Minimising waste on construction sites
Builders can also employ various measures to minimise the amount of waste that’s produced in the first place. Their suppliers have
a role to play in this too, either by supplying at the last minute (i.e. ‘just in time deliveries’) to help reduce the amount of packaging
that’s needed and the chance of breakage or spoiling, or by agreeing to take back the materials that are left over.
Builders can also train their subcontractors to use offcuts in other parts of the house to help cut down on waste too.
One of the biggest arguments made for prefabricated housing is that there’s less waste produced in the first place with this kind of
construction.
Skips and waste removal
Building sites will usually feature massive bins (called skips) that are dropped off at the site and used to collect and remove waste
as it’s generated. Rubbish skips are normally stored either on the building site, or just off the site in a position that won’t cause a
problem to traffic or pedestrians.
Regional limitations
For the time being the cheapest and least complicated option is normally just to fill a skip and throw everything into a landfill.
Having said that, a builder’s ability to do much else with the waste will also depend on whether recycling facilities are available
where the house is being built, and how willing suppliers are to help reduce waste in the first place.
For more information, ask your builder how waste minimisation and disposal will work on your site.
Hazardous chemicals and dangerous goods
To reduce the risk of an accident, special containers are required to store hazardous chemicals and dangerous goods in. This
includes things like gas tanks or corrosive chemicals
These types of containers typically have special provisions for things like natural ventilation, special compartments, electrical
earthing, and warning signs. These types of containers are normally made specifically so that they conform to the Australian
regulations that determine how these sorts of dangerous materials should be stored.

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Learner Guide
Check, maintain and store tools and equipment and report any faults.
Tools, plant, and equipment
Tools can be expensive, and they need to be looked after when a job is completed to ensure that they remain in good working
condition and are safe to use and ready for the next project.
Inspection
Before you start a job, you must first check tools and equipment for damage or faults.
For example:
With leads and cables – check for fraying or exposed wires, bent or loose plugs
With cutting edges and blades – check whether they are blunt or damaged
With metal components – look for corrosion or rust
If you find any faults, attach a repair tag and remove the equipment from use immediately. Report all faults on a worksite or in a
workshop to a store person or supervisor. Damaged tools must be repaired but this should be done only by trained personnel.
Some faults can be fixed only by a specialist or licensed electrician.
Check the dates on inspection tags to make sure that power tools and extension leads are still safe to use and in accordance with
Regulations. Make a note of upcoming inspection dates if they’re likely to occur before the next time the tool is used.
Maintenance
Regular maintenance helps to preserve the quality of tools, keep them safe and extend their lives. Doing a little maintenance each
time you complete a job or project can prevent costly and time-consuming repairs or replacement.
Maintenance, which should always be carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and guidelines, includes:
Sharpening chisels, planes and Replacing damaged or worn Cleaning or replacing air filters,
saw blades components e.g. blades, belts etc.
Storage of tools, plant and equipment
Theft is a big problem in the construction industry – particularly the theft of tools and construction equipment. Good quality
construction equipment is normally expensive, and easy to conceal once it’s stolen.
Likewise, building materials left out in the open on construction sites also have the potential to be removed late at night by
opportunistic thieves.
Many tradespeople have heavy duty lockable compartments on their utes or vans to store tools in, but sometimes it’s more
practical to leave large equipment on site. To keep things secure and to make sure they don’t get ruined by rain or bad weather,
builders will often use a special lock-up container on the site.
Shipping containers and lock up storage boxes
Perhaps the most practical and common way to keep tools and materials safe on a building site is to lock them safely away inside
a shipping container. These containers come in all shapes and sizes to suit any site, and can be hired or bought and delivered
directly to the site as they’re needed
Some shipping containers are customised with special racks to store piping and other lengthy materials. Smaller lock-up storage
boxes are also available and come customised for all kinds of purposes and needs.

Page 40 of 40

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Install flooring systems

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

Before you begin

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

What you will learn

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

Read and interpret work instructions and plan sequence of work.

Internal company Manufacturer

The tools, equipment

Laws and Regulations

National Construction Code AS 4440 Installation of nail HB330 Living in bushfire-

AS 3660 Termite AS 2870 Residential slabs The Australian House

Assessing site conditions

Locating site sheds for the

Locating suitable access

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

You’ll need this information to determine:

What tools and equipment are available

Where and how the tools and equipment will be used

Hazardous materials and substances

Earth leakage boxes

Power cables, including overhead service trays, cables and conduits

Restricted access barriers

Work site visitors and the public

Working in confined spaces

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

Working in proximity to others

Working with dangerous materials

Organisational first aid

Use of firefighting equipment

Use of tools and equipment

Workplace environment and safety

Building subfloor walls and piers

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

Evacuation procedures and Working safely and responding

Hazards and risks

Injury from flying Injury from insecure

Injuries from nail Falls from heights of

Codes of practice and legislation applicable to this work

Register of all workers engaged in this Scope of Works

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

Power saws and

Nailing all the members together requires the use of:

Spirit levels Floor clamps String lines Hammers Nail guns

Organising tools, plant and equipment

The right tools Plant and equipment

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

Substitution or Administrative Personal Protective

PPE should only be used:

for situations where

PPE should not be used:

just for the sake of it;

throughout an entire workplace/department unless it has been identified as

How to select PPE

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

boots ear plugs face masks gloves goggles hard hats

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

The priorities when planning are to:

Harward International College | RTO: 22332 | CRICOS: 03234B | Version: 1.0

Size Quality Fire resistance Colour and quantity

Legislation and Australian Company policies Manufacturers’

Storage of materials when they