AT 401 - OM 3 Maintenance

Air Tractor, Inc.
Olney, Texas
AT-401
TABLE OF CONTENTS
MAINTENANCE SECTION
Page No.
Fuel Requirements 1
Oil Requirements 1
Tire Inflation 1
Lifting and Jacking 1
Main Wheels 2
Main Wheel Alignment 2
Brakes 3
Brake Master Cylinders 4
Brake Bleeding 4
Parking Brake 5
Tail Wheel 5
Tail Wheel Fork 6
Tail Wheel Fork Housing 6
Tail Wheel Lock Pin and Housing 7
Main and Tail Gear Attach Bolts 7
Tail Gear Spring 8
Main Gear Spring 9
Wings 11
Wing Attachment to Fuselage 11
Wing Center Splice Connection 12
Wing Walk 13
Fuel Tanks 13
Fuel Tank Senders 14
Fuel Tank Receiver 15
Fuel System Drains 15
Fuel System Screens and Filters 16
Fuel Wobble Pump 16
Ailerons 16
Flaps 17
Aileron and Flap Rigging 18
Aileron and Flap Bellcranks & Supports 18
Flap Actuator 19
Flap Actuator Trouble Shooting 20
Flap Motor Trouble Shooting 22
Horizontal Stabilizers 22
Stabilizer Struts 23
Stabilizer Rigging 23
Vertical Fin 24
Rudder 24
Rudder Controls 24
Elevators 25
AIR TRACTOR, INC.
Olney, Texas
AT -401
TABLE OF CONTENTS
MAINTENANCE SECTION
(Continued)
Elevator Controls 26
Cockpit Controls 27
Elevator Trim Tabs 27
Trim Tab Controls 28
Trim Lever 28
Fuselage Removable Skins 28
Fuselage Fixed Skins 29
Fuselage Cockpit Skins 29
Fuselage Frame 29
Windshield 29
Canopy Doors 30
Seat 30
Hopper 31
Hopper Gate Box 31
Hopper Lid 31
Gate Box Controls 31
Spray Lever Controls 32
Spray Pump 32
Spray Plumbing 32
Bottom Loading Plumbing 33
Spray Nozzles 33
Stripping and Re-painting Parts 34
Priming Aluminum Parts with Chromated Alkyd Primer 35
Stripping and Repainting Steel Parts 35A
Materials Used for Stripping, Painting, and Preservation 35A
Torque Values for Shop Use 36
Electrical System Trouble Shooting 36
Lighting System Trouble Shooting 37
Electrical System Description 39
Airspeed System 41
Life-Limited Items 42
Tie-Down Instruction 43
Towing Instructions and Limitations 43
AmSafe Airbag System 44
Checking the Batteries 44
Leveling 45
Weight and Balance 45
Air Tractor, Inc. Maintenance Page 1
AT-401 July 13, 2011
FUEL REQUIREMENTS
Fuel type for the AT-401 is aviation grade 80/87 minimum octane gasoline. If this fuel is not
available, use the next highest grade aviation gasoline, up to and including 100 octane. Under no
circumstances should aeromatic fuel be used.
OIL REQUIREMENTS
For summer flying SAE 60 grade oil should be used. For winter flying SAE 50 grade oil is
recommended. Select a well known aviation oil that is non-detergent and do not mix brands.
It is recommended that the oil level on the dipstick be maintained above 4 gallons at all
times. For extreme conditions the engine can be safely operated down to 2 gallons on the dipstick.
Never commence operations at this minimum level.
Oil changes are recommended at 100 hour intervals, or more often if conditions require it.
Clean cooler (pressure wash) as required or on annual inspections.
TIRE INFLATION
The main tires are inflated to a pressure of 41 psi (unloaded) or 43 psi (loaded). The tail
wheel tire is inflated to a pressure of 50 psi (loaded or unloaded).
LIFTING AND JACKING
A jack pad is provided with each aircraft for the main gear . To install the jack pad, lay a soft
rag on the inside so that it will not chip the paint from the main gear leg and slide the jack pad up
the lower end of the main gear leg until it is snug. It will be necessary to remove and replace the
lower Ty-rap that holds the brake line in place. The Ty-rap is a T150M-0 (Tyton) and should be
stocked as a standard spares item. After the jack pad is in place, install the bolt and nut through
the pad flanges with the bolt on the top side of the gear leg. This is to keep the pad from spreading
apart and slipping. Use a small hydraulic jack to lift the wheel off the ground. Be sure the tail
wheel is locked, and chocks are in place on the other main wheel. The hopper should be empty
before jacking.
CAUTION: Care should always be taken when the aircraft

is lifted to prevent damage to the aircraft or harm to people near it.
To jack the tail wheel, place a small board (a short 2 x 4) under the tail spring about mid-
way between the forward spring attach bolt and the main clamp block that attaches the spring to
the fuselage. Place the jack on the board and lift the wheel. Be sure the parking brake is set before
jacking.
If the tail spring is to be removed or checked for looseness, or have bolts changed, place the
small hydraulic jack under the point of the L/H stabilizer strut attach fitting that welds to the
lower fuselage longeron. Again, be sure the parking brake is set before jacking.
If the main gear springs are to be checked for looseness, or bolts changed (other than the
clamp bolts), the aircraft must be lifted with a hoist, as there are no jack points on the wing due
to the large deflections of the main gear springs. A sling should be constructed with each side of
the sling equipped with a strong hook that will be installed in the lifting eyes on the engine
crankcase. Be sure to have a spreader bar installed in the sling that will keep the cables from
chafing the cylinders, and to assure that the cables are pulling in the line of the lifting eyes on the
Maintenance Page 2 Air Tractor, Inc.
May 2, 1994 AT-401
crankcase. It will be necessary to remove the prop cable support from the L/H lifting eye before
hoisting the aircraft. There are surplus slings available that can be modified slightly to fit the
R1340 by shortening the spreader bar. These slings can be supplied by the factory if desired.
It is also permissible to hoist the aircraft from the engine crankshaft behind the prop hub.
Be sure to have the hopper empty before hoisting. A two-ton hoist should be used, and as
the wheels clear the ground, place an empty 55 gallon drum with sufficient boards under each
wing at the tie-down locations to steady the aircraft and provide safety in case the hoist should
fail. Do not attempt to jack the wings at the tie-down rings.
MAIN WHEELS
To remove a main wheel, jack the wheel clear of the ground per previous instructions. With a
7/16" wrench, remove the eight AN4 bolts attaching the two halves of the brake assembly. Leave
the brake line connected and slide the brake assembly out of the way. Next remove the snap ring
on the inboard side of the wheel that holds the felt grease retainer in place. This facilitates wheel
removal and re-installation. Then remove the outer snap ring and dust cap, remove the two
cotters in the castellated nut, and back off the castellated nut. The wheel can then be pulled free
of the axle.
If the tire is to be removed, deflate and then remove the two wheel halves. To mount a new
tire and tube position the tube in the tire so that the balance band on the tube is aligned with
balance mark on the tire. The inside of the tire and the outside of the tube should be lightly
dusted with talc before installation. If no balance band is found on the tube align the valve stem
with the balance mark on the tire. When re-mounting the tire and tube, apply enough air pressure
in the tube to allow the tube to take shape and position itself properly in the tire before the two
rim halves are assembled.This will help prevent pinching the tube between the rim halves. Torque
wheel bolts 100 inch-pounds at the nut. Inflate to 41 psi. Clean bearings and hand pack with Mil-
G-7711 general purpose grease. Before the wheel is re-installed, inspect the cast aluminum torque
plate for cracks and check the four axle attach bolts for proper torque (550 inch-pounds at the
nut). Wipe axle clean and slide inner grease seal and bearing on axle. Position wheel and tighten
castellated axle nut until a slight bearing drag is felt as wheel is turned. Back off nut to nearest
castellation and install two MS24665-351 cotters. Position inner grease seal and install snap ring.
Install outer dust cap and snap ring and rotate wheel to check for possible drag of cotter head on
dust cap. The cotter head should protrude no more than 1/8" above the flat for dust cap
clearance. Check brake linings for wear and re-install on torque plate. The eight AN4 bolts in the
wheel cylinders require 120 inch-pounds torque.
MAIN WHEEL ALIGNMENT
1. Difference in forming of the main gear legs requires the use of tapered shims to provide the
correct camber and toe-in on the main wheels.
2. The aircraft is to be fueled, but with empty hopper.
Taxi aircraft a short distance in a straight line to allow the gear legs to assume the natural
position. The aircraft should be on paved surface or flat smooth ground.
3. A long straight edge is placed across the front of the tires approximately at axle height.
This straight edge is supported by blocks, or cans, or both. A 24" or larger carpenter’s
AT-401 May 2, 1994
square is placed against the straight edge and the outside surface of the tire, and held
level with the ground and at axle height. The tire should be square with the straight edge,
or have up to 1/8" toe-in, measured at the most outboard part of the tire.
4. Camber is then measured by placing a protractor on the vertical axis of the wheel through
o o
the axle. Camber should measure 5 +/- 1 .
5. Should the wheel fail to check within these limits, the axle bolts are removed and the
tapered shims rotated, deleted, or added to until the wheels check with these limits.
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6. The use of shims is limited to no more than 4 of change in the axle centerline from a line
perpendicular to the face of the landing gear leg in the center of the bolt pattern. Beyond
o
4 , bolts through the torque plate will cause a preload in the torque plate due to the
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interference fit that could cause cracking. To determine if more than 4 exists, measure
the thickest and the thinnest part of the shim (or shims) used. Subtract the thinnest
measurement from the thickest. If this amount is equal to or less than .227", there is no
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more than 4 of change in the axle centerline. If more than .227" exists, consult the
engineering department immediately.
7. If shims are removed, or bolts changed, be sure the steel round plate is positioned with
the countersunk side of the holes under the bolt heads.
BRAKES
The wheel brake units are Cleveland 30-18400 L/H and 30-18450 R/H. The brake unit
consists of the wheel cylinder assembly and the torque plate, which is attached to the gear leg
with the four axle bolts. The torque plates are not interchangeable from right to left, but the
cylinder assembly can be converted to a R/H or a L/H by moving the bleed screw to the fluid
entry port.
Brake fluid used is red Mil-H-5606A petroleum-base fluid which is used in most light
aircraft. Do not use automotive brake fluid as this will swell the O-rings.
The wheel units can be removed by using a 7/16" wrench to remove the eight AN4 bolts
attaching the two halves of the brake assembly. The brake line may be left connected if only the
linings are to be changed. Linings are Cleveland p/n 66-59 and are attached with Cleveland p/n
105-2 rivets. There are 16 linings and 32 rivets per aircraft.
Each brake assembly has four pistons which are Cleveland p/n 92-29 and have an O-ring
installed which is a Cleveland p/n 101-232. Each piston also incorporates a drag ring which
holds the piston against the backing plate of the lining so that excessive pedal travel is not
required for positive brake action.
To remove the pistons in order to change O-rings, remove the brake line and apply hydrau-
lic pressure at the fluid entry port. The pistons are aluminum and should be checked for wear, or
burrs that could cut the O-ring. Check the bore in the housing at the same time. When installing
new O-rings, soak them in brake fluid before placing them on the pistons. Re-install the pistons
with care, so that the O-ring is not damaged.
The brake disc is a Cleveland p/n 164-05600 and is attached to the bolts that attach the
two rim halves together. The wheel must be removed from the aircraft per previous instructions,
the tire deflated, and the wheel disassembled in order to remove the brake disc. With the new
brake disc in place, re-assemble wheel and tire per previous instructions.
April 1, 1998 AT-401
BRAKE MASTER CYLINDERS
The master cylinders are Cleveland p/n 10-23F. The upper end is bolted to an aluminum
strap connected to the rudder pedal. Both the strap and the pedal have bronze bushings that can
be replaced when worn. The bushings are oil-impregnated and do not require lubrication.
The lower end of the master cylinder has a clevis attached with an AN316-5 check nut. If
the rudder pedal position (angle) should need changing for pilot comfort, the check nut can be
loosened, and the round plunger immediately below can be rotated with finger pressure in either
direction to increase or decrease the angle that the brake pedal makes with the cockpit floor.
When desired angle is obtained, snug check nut.
To remove the master cylinder, loosen check nut and rotate plunger out of the clevis. Then
remove the bolt attaching the master cylinder to the aluminum strap and disconnect the two
brake lines at the cylinder.
A repair kit is available for the master cylinder which is Cleveland p/n 199-09100. The
cylinder may be dis-assembled and repair parts installed per instructions furnished with the kit.
If the check nut at the top is left in the original position, the pedal angle will be the same as
before when the master cylinder is re-installed. Be sure the clevis is free to swing with the master
cylinder through the full range of rudder pedal travel. If it does not, the two plates which attach
the clevis are too close together and require an additional spacer washer.
If a spot of brake fluid appears on the cockpit floor on the L/H side it does not necessarily
mean that the master cylinder is leaking. The usual cause is over-filling the brake reservoir, so
that when brakes are used, and fluid returns to the reservoir, it sometimes leaks through the
vent hole in the reservoir cap.
BRAKE BLEEDING
If air enters the brake system because of worn O-rings or the replacement of brake system
components, the brake pedal will become “soft” and the brakes lose their effectiveness. It will then
be necessary to bleed the brakes to remove the air.
The conventional practice of placing a pressure pot line at the bleed screw location on the
wheel cylinder and forcing fluid up through the system generally does not work. The factory
practice is to place one person in the cockpit and another at the wheel cylinder with a bleed screw
wrench and a Coke bottle to catch the fluid. Before the bleeding process begins, it is necessary to
obtain a short piece (about 6"long) of windshield wiper hose which will fit snugly over the bleed
screw head so that all fluid can be caught in the Coke bottle and not wasted.
The procedure is as follows:
1. The cockpit man pulls on the parking brake and leaves it on. Then he pumps the pedal on
the side being bled several times until the pedal begins to get firm. The parking brake is
left on since it is actually a one-way check valve.
2. Then the cockpit man pushes the pedal and shouts “Open” to the man at the wheel
cylinder who proceeds to open the bleed screw with a 1/4" open-end wrench. Brake fluid
and air then rush through the bleed screw, through the hose , and into the Coke bottle.
3. The cockpit man, who has held the pedal all the way down, then shouts “Close” as soon as
the pedal reaches the down position, and the other person closes the bleed screw immedi-
ately.
AT-401 April 1, 1998
4. The cockpit man uses the procedure outlined in (1) to obtain a firm pedal and again
repeats step (2) and (3).
5. The above procedure is repeated as many as a dozen or so times until a firm brake is
obtained with the parking brake off. Be sure to add brake fluid to the reservoir before the
reservoir is emptied or else you will have to start all over again. Don’t use the fluid in the
Coke bottle as it will have bubbles of air. When the bubbles are gone it is OK to use, if the
fluid is clean.
6. Repeat the process for the other wheel.
PARKING BRAKE
The parking brake valve used on later Air Tractors is a Scott p/n 4500A-2. Two of these
valves are mounted together with a common lever to pull the valve to the “ON” position. O-Rings
within the valves may be replaced when needed.
TAIL WHEEL
The tail wheel is a Cleveland p/n 40-168. Keeping the bearings properly lubricated is the
key to long bearing life. A grease fitting is installed in the side of the wheel.
To remove the tail wheel, jack the wheel clear of the ground per previous instructions and
remove the long AN6C63A bolt that attaches the axle to the fork. Note the method of safety wire
on the large stainless jam nut and cut the wire loose from the fork. The tail wheel is now free and
ready for dis-assembly. Back off the jam nut from the axle and remove the axle. Inspect the axle
for wear at the bearing positions, as insufficient greasing procedures will cause the bearing to
turn on the axle and ruin both parts. Inspect the AN6 bolt for wear and straightness, and slide
the bolt through the fork to check the hole in the fork for wear. There should be no wear in the
fork holes since there is no movement between fork and bolt. If the tire is to be removed, deflate
and remove the bolts holding the wheel halves together. Since the rim halves were sealed the
sealer may hold the parts together and tapping the rims with a wooden block may be necessary to
split the wheel. Don’t forget to remove the valve stem nut and push the stem until it is loose from
the wheel half.
Clean all parts and re-assemble wheel and tire as described in the Main Wheel section on
page 2.
Tail wheel bearings are Timken L44643LA cone (the part with the rollers) and L44610 cup
(the part pressed into the wheel half.) Hand pack the bearings with Mil-G-7711 grease, and install
wheel on the axle. Install the 40034-1 jam nut and 40051-1 tongue washer on the axle with the
round shoulder inboard and tighten until all bearing slack is removed but the wheel is free to
turn. Inflate the tire to 50 psi. Grease the AN6C63A axle bolt and install wheel and axle assembly
on the fork. Torque the nut to 160 inch-pounds. Safety the jam nut against the rotation of the
wheel with MS20995C32 stainless safety wire.
May 2, 1994 AT-401
TAIL WHEEL FORK
The tail wheel fork may be removed from the housing by removing the single AN4C26A
stainless bolt from the arm assembly that connects to the centering springs. With the fork
removed, check for wear on the spindle at the bronze bearing locations. Also check for condtion of
the steel bushing that the lock pins drop into. This bushing is pressed into the steel plate at the
bottom end of the spindle and staked in four places on each side of the plate with a center punch.
This holds the bushing in place since it has a beveled edge on both sides. The bushing is p/n
40042-1. Excess wear on the fork spindle at the bronze bearing locations are indication that
grease is not reaching the proper area. To grease the bronze bearings properly, jack the tail wheel
clear of the ground and apply grease at the fitting on the housing, and rotate the fork until grease
is running out of the full perimeter of both upper and lower bronze bushings. Excessive wear in
the spindle will require a new fork assembly which is p/n 40040-9 and includes the steel lock pin
bushing. The centering springs are p/n 40044-1 and attach to a p/n 40035-1 bracket which
wears on a p/n 40036-1 bushing. The bolt is a AN4C7A.
TAIL WHEEL FORK HOUSING
The housing is attached to the tail spring with two AN10-H14A bolts, and MS20995C32
safety wire ties the bolts heads together. These bolts have a tendency to loosen in service,
particularly in the first 100 hours of operation as paint between mating surfaces is compressed.
At 100 hour intervals, the tail wheel should be jacked clear of the ground, and with the locking
pin in place give the tail wheel a vigorous tug from side to side to check for movement between
the housing and the spring. Torque the bolts to 1,700 inch-pounds. For row-crop operation from
smooth strips these bolts should be replaced at least every 1,600 hours and for rice operation
from rough strips they should be changed every 800 hours or once a year. Be sure to grease the
bolts before installation with G.P. Grease, and an added precaution would be to apply grease to
the threads of the housing to prevent the bolt from seizing.
A brass wear plate is attached at the lower plate of the fork housing assembly. This plate is
attached with counter-sunk machine screws and if worn to the point where the machine screw
heads are flush, it should be changed. The brass plate is p/n 40018-2. The large bronze bushings
inside the housing are p/n 40023-1 (lower) and p/n 40024-1 (upper). These bushings are pressed
into place and may be driven out with a pin punch. The lower bushing has a chamfered end
which is positioned on the lower extreme of the housing at the brass wear plate. The housing
assembly is p/n 40017-1 which is less bushings, wear plate and attaching hardware and grease
fitting.
AT-401 September 15, 1989
TAIL WHEEL LOCK PIN AND HOUSING
The lock pin housing is p/n 40025-1 and attaches to the steel plate on the lower end of the
fork housing with four countersunk screws. The four holes in the base of the lock pin housing are
oversize to allow adjustment of the locking pin. If the aircraft tends to steer to the left or to the
right on the ground with the lock pin engaged, it is necessary to re-position the lock pin housing.
Jack the tail wheel clear of the ground, lift the lock pin up and swivel the fork to one side so that
the four screw heads are exposed. Make a pencil mark along the edge of the lock pin housing
plate for a reference and estimate the amount of movement for the lock pin housing. Loosen the 4
screws and move the housing the desired direction. Swivel the fork back into position and allow
the locking pin to engage the fork, then tighten the two outboard screws. Then rotate the fork
back so that the two inboard screws can be tightened. Check the lock pin again to see if it freely
engages the fork. Taxi the aircraft in a no-wind condition or if there is a light wind, taxi both up-
wind and down-wind with the rudder pedals in the neutral position and the stick back so that
you are sure the lock pin is engaged. Keep adjusting the locking pin housing until the aircraft will
taxi in a straight line.
During annual inspections (or more frequently if required) remove the housing and slide out
the locking pin to check it for wear and straightness. The compression spring inside the housing
should also be checked for broken coils. The locking pin is p/n 40021-1 and the spring is p/n
40026-1.
MAIN AND TAIL GEAR ATTACH BOLTS
The bolts attaching the main and tail gear springs to the fuselage structure are among the
most important structural components of the aircraft. Being structural components under con-
stant stress, these bolts have definite fatigue lives. The predictability of the fatigue life of each bolt
is impossible due to the wide variety of operating conditions that include smoothness of launch-
ing strips, number of landings per hour, pilot landing technique, load carried, the way the turns
on the ground are made, the way the brakes are used, and many other small but significant
factors. Dropping in over the trees and hitting the ground during a spray run may not cause a
gear bolt failure, but the effect on the fatigue life of the bolt could be the same as several
thousand landings on a rough strip. A bolt that is not tightened to the proper torque, especially
when there is visible clearance between the gear spring and the fuselage, will last only a fraction
of the time normally expected.
We have seen paved-landing strips that had big potholes impossible to miss when landing,
that must impose huge loads on the forward main gear clamp bolts. How many times do you hit
the potholes before the bolts break? Some strips are so rough you wouldn’t dare drive your empty
pickup over 30 mph down the strip, yet there goes an Air Tractor with a ton of fertilizer bouncing
along at 80 mph on a still day just before lift-off. Lie down on the ground and look at the massive
structure supporting all four wheels of your pickup. Now look at your Air Tractor gear support,
and consider the leverage that exists between the gear leg length, and the distance between the
clamp block bolts.
What we are trying to tell you is that your aircraft is not a tank, the gear will support a
surprising amount of load, the bolts will take a lot of tough licks, but don’t press your luck and
think that they will last forever without breaking.
April 1, 1998 AT-401
Accordingly, we have established what we feel is a conservative, yet realistic time period for
gear bolt changes, based on field experience at this time. The bolt life shown is based on normal
operations, and if you are the one with the potholes or super-rough strips, cut the time between
bolt changes in half. If your aircraft hits the ground or a ditch bank during spraying, change the
forward clamp bolts immediately. If you discover slack in the large 1.0" bolt attaching the main
gear leg, change it immediately. Bolts are cheap.
Hours shown are for normal operations in row-crop or rice operations. If your business
combines both types of flying, use an average of the two figures. If your strips are rougher than
normal cut the hours shown in half. If you hit an obstruction with the main gear, change the
forward clamp bolt immediately and check the clamp block for straightness.
Bolt Location Bolt Size Bolt Life Bolt Life Wrench On ( )

(On Fuselage) ________ (Row-Crop Op.) (Rice Op.) Torque
Fwd main gear NAS152DH43 1,000 hours 500 hours 250 ft. - lbs (head)
Clamp block
Aft main gear NAS152DH43 2,000 hours 1,000 hours 250 ft. - lbs. (head)
Clamp block
Inbd main gear NAS156A86 2,000 hours 1,000 hours 500 ft. - lbs. (nut)
Large bolt
Tail Spring AN7-31A 1,000 hours 500 hours 45 ft. - lbs. (nut)
Clamp bolts
Tail Spring AN6-17A 600 hours 300 hours Snug only

Forward bolt
2 bolts aft end AN10H14A 2,000 hours 1,000 hours 142 ft. - lbs. (head)
Tail spring
TAIL GEAR SPRING
The tail gear spring is p/n 40060-1. It is machined of E-4340 aircraft quality steel, formed,
heat-treated, and shot-peened for fatigue resistance. It is sand blasted and primed with Alumigrip
30-Y-94 primer and finished with Alumigrip G-9046 yellow polyurethane paint.
The forward attachment of the spring to the fuselage frame is with an AN6-17A bolt. It is
clamped at the rear attachment with p/n 40149-1 clamp block which attaches to the fuselage
frame with two AN7-31A bolts. There is a p/n 40146-2 aluminum pad that is installed between
the clamp block and the spring to allow the spring to work without putting secondary loads into
the fuselage frame or attach bolts. There are square .020 thick stainless shims (p/n 40065-1) and
sometimes a spacer washer located between the clamp block and the fuselage frame. During
annual inspections the tail gear should be jacked at the stabilizer strut fitting as described under
AT-401 April 1, 1998
“Lifting and Jacking” and the tail spring checked for looseness at the clamp block. Looseness can
be eliminated by removing one or more of the square stainless shims from under the clamp block.
With the clamp block removed, also check the aluminum pad for condition.
The forward spring attach bolt AN6-17A. should be changed every 600 hours or once a year
for row-crop work and every 300 hours if working from rough strips in rice operations. Besides
saving a possible fatigue failure, the forward bolt tends to freeze up if not changed often. Be sure
to grease the bolt and snug the nut only (no torque) as the spring must move on the bolt.
The clamp bolts should be changed every 1,000 hours for row-crop work and every 500
hours if operating from rough strips in rice operations. Torque the clamp bolts to 600 inch-
pounds (torque wrench on bolt head), and make sure there are sufficient shims between the
clamp block and the fuselage frame to prevent bending the clamp block as the bolts are torqued.
The tail gear spring will fatigue and break at some point in the life of the aircraft. The
number of hours before failure will vary considerably as some operators make many more
landings per flight hour than others, or carry heavier loads, or operate from very rough strips.
Pilot technique is a factor also, since some pilots are very rough on airplanes. For these reasons
it is not possible to predict when a failure might occur.
Usually the tail spring will show signs of yielding just prior to failure and the tail of the
aircraft will sit a slight bit lower to the ground than previously. Sometimes during the first 100
hours or so of operation a measurement should be taken and recorded from the clampblock to
the ground or hangar floor. The aircraft should be fully fueled, and with a full hopper. At various
intervals this measurement should be checked, and after 1,000 hours check the measurement at
least every 50 hours. Although service history for the Air Tractor is relatively limited, it appears
that the tail spring should be changed about every 1500 hours for worst conditions of rice
operations from rough strips, and every 2,000 hours for the best conditions of row-crop work
from smooth strips. Each operator should determine at what point in between these extremes his
operation fits and change the tail spring at the appropriate interval, unless the measuring process
described earlier indicates yielding. In that case the spring should be changed immediately. When
ordering a new tail gear spring, also order two each 40065-1 shims in case they are needed.
For everyone’s protection, take a cutting torch and destroy the old spring when it is re-
placed.
MAIN GEAR SPRING
The main gear spring is p/n 40007-3 and will fit on either side of the aircraft. It is machined
of E-4340 aircraft quality steel, formed, heat-treated, and shot-peened for fatigue resistance. It is
sandblasted and primed with Alumigrip 30-Y-94 primer and finished with Alumigrip G-9046
yellow polyurethane paint.
The inboard attachment of the spring to the fuselage frame is with a NAS156A86 bolt,
MS20002C16 washer under the bolt head (be sure the chamfered side of the washer is next to the
head), one or more MS20002-16 washers under the nut, AN310-16 nut, and MS24665-360
cotter. The bolt is installed upside down and torque should be 6,400 inch pounds (torque wrench
on bolt head). A simple adapter for your torque wrench is a short piece of 1.0" hex stock to enter
the bolt head, and a 1.0" socket for your torque wrech.
The inboard bolt should be changed every 2,000 hours for row-crop and every 1,000 hours
for rice operations. It is necessary to hoist the aircraft as described under “Lifting and Hoisting”
April 1, 1998 AT-401
when changing the inboard bolt. Be sure to grease the bolt with general purpose grease before
installing. Also, be sure the bolt is marked “R” on the head to indicate the threads were rolled
after heat-treat.
The gear spring is clamped to the fuselage frame with a p/n 40148-1 clamp block with two
NAS152DH43 bolts, MS20002C12 washers under the bolt head (make sure the chamfered side of
the washer is under the bolt head) and various numbers of McMaster p/n 3088A324 round shim
washers between the clamp block and the fuselage frame. The shims are selected to allow the
bolts to be fully torqued without bending the clamp block. The McMaster p/n 3088A324 shims
are .010 thick. If too many thick shims are used the gear connection will be too loose and will
rattle during taxi or landing. If the gear leg becomes loose during service even though the clamp
block bolts are at full torque it is necessary to remove a shim.
The method empoyed at the factory to determine the amount of shims required is to install
the clamp block and fully torque the bolts before installing the large inboard bolt. The block is
checked for straightness with a small straight edge (a six-inch steel scale is OK) to be sure the
block is not bent by not having sufficient shims. Then the gear leg is grasped at the lower end,
given an outboard tug by hand. A moderate tug should move the inboard end of the leg down
from the attach bushing in the fuselage frame a distance of 1/8" to 1/4". If it is a greater distance
than 1/4" the connection is too loose, and a thinner shim is tried and the process repeated. Once
the proper shims are determined, the bolts are loosened and the large inboard bolt is installed.
Then the clamp bock bolts are tightened to full torque (3,000 inch-pounds) and MS20995C32
wire is used to safety the two bolt heads together.
An adapter for your torque wrench may be made from a short piece of 5/8" hex stock to
enter the bolt head, and a 5/8" socket for the torque wrench. Be sure to grease the bolts before
installing. The clamp block bolts should also have the letter “R” stamped on the head to indicate
the threads were rolled after heat treat.
For row-crop operations the forward clamp bolt should be changed every 1,000 hours and
the aft clamp bolt every 2,000 hours. For rice operations from rough strips the forward bolts
should be changed every 500 hours and the aft bolt every 1,000 hours.
If an obstruction is hit with the main gear, change the forward clamp bolt immediately and
check the clamp block for straightness. The forward clamp bolt can be changed without hoisting
the aircraft. The parking brake should be set, and use care so as not to disturb the shims that
are in place.
Since each main gear leg is slightly different in thickness, and since each clamp block is
machined within a specific tolerance, it is necessary to make a shim selection as described earlier
if either the gear leg or the clamp block is changed.
As in the case of the tail gear spring, the main gear spring will fatigue and break at some
point in the life of the aircraft. Again, the number of hours before failure will vary considerably as
some operators make more landings per hour than others, or carry heavier loads, or operate from
very rough strips. Pilot technique is again a factor, as some pilots are very rough on airplanes.
For these reasons it is impossible to predict when a failure might occur.
Service history is still relatively limited but in the interest of safety and the high financial
consequences of a broken main gear leg, it would be advisable to take a highly conservative
approach and change the main gear springs well before the probable fatigue life. The main gear
springs should be changed in accordance with Service Letter #104.
AT-401 March 30, 2003
When the main gear springs are changed, use new bolts and nuts at all locations. The axle
attach bolts are NAS147-53. Install the springs to the fuselage in accordance with the instruc-
tions in this section and install the axles to the spring using the procedure to check camber and
toe-in outlined in the section “Main Wheel Alignment”. Be sure to make log book entries when
bolts or gear springs are changed.
Whenever the airplane is ground-looped or involved in an incident that puts a permanent
bend in one gear spring, the other spring must be changed as it may have been overstressed.
When ordering new main gear springs or clamp blocks also order 10 ea. McMaster p/n
3088A324 shims in case they are needed. In addition, the large aluminum tapered shims at the
axle attachment might need an addition or change so it would be a good idea to order 2 ea 40011-
2 shims and 2 ea 40011-3 shims in case they are needed.
WINGS
The wing is of all-metal construction with the main spar designed to take all of the bending
load. Thick wing skins are employed near the wing root with a gradual drop in thickness at each
skin lap as wing loads diminish. No span-wise stringers are used in order to simplify construction
and repairs and for that reason wrinkles in the upper skin and "cans" between the ribs will be
noticed during maneuvers with heavy loads. This is a natural condition and unless the cans or
wrinkles change noticeably in a particular location there is no cause for alarm. Any changes as
mentioned will require close inspection of all internal structural parts in the area where the
change has taken place.
The wing leading edge is of .040 thick 2024-T3 and can be replaced in the field as described
under the Repairs section of this manual. The wing rear spar attach plate is of 1/4" thick heat
treated 4130N steel for extra strength and resistance to corrosion during fertilizer applications. It
is cadmium plated and painted with Air Ag yellow epoxy before assembly to the rear spar.
All wing parts are scrubbed with an etching solution, and dipped into an Alodine 1200
solution, then primed before assembly. Skin laps on the top side of the wing are sealed with TBM
PKMMC236A1/2 as in the wing root to prevent chemical entry.
WING ATTACHMENT TO FUSELAGE
Two wing attach angles are used to attach the wing main spar to the fuselage vertical tube
just aft of the main spar. There are three AN5-25A bolts that attach each vertical tube to the wing
angles.
It should also be noted that there is no bolt through the attach angle and through the small
leg of the lower spar cap. This is to eliminate bolt fretting and make the joint more fatigue
resistant. Torque bolts to 200 inch-pounds at the nut.
The wing attach angles are p/n 20692-1 and are attached to the main spar with three AN5-
12A and one AN5-13A bolts. If it is necessary to change the wing attach angles due to bolt wear
or fuselage repairs, ask the factory for detailed instructions on how to drill the attach angles at
the time they are ordered, as these angles are drilled to match each individual aircraft.
The rear spar plate is attached to the fuselage frame with a single NAS1307-21 bolt. These
bolts wear slightly and should be checked at 1,000 hour intervals, and replaced if worn or rusty.
Do not use AN bolts at this location. To remove the bolts, first remove the lower wing gap cover
September 16, 2009 AT-401
which is attached with screws. Place a small hydraulic jack under the wing rear spar plate
and apply only a small amount of pressure to support the wing when the bolt is removed. Lock
the parking brake so the aircraft will not move. Remove the nut and drive the bolt out with a small
hammer gently, protecting the threads from damage. Inspect the bolt visually, then place it on a
smooth plate and rotate to see if it is bent. Inspect for thread damage or rust. Do not use
excessive force to remove the bolts, and do not heat. If there is difficulty in removing the bolts,
contact the factory.
We encourage replacement of old bolts with new bolts at all times, but if the old bolts are in
good shape and the time intervals mentioned above are not exceeded, they may be re-installed. Be
sure to grease the bolts before installing. Torque values are 300 inch-pounds (Torque wrench on
nut).
WING CENTER SPLICE CONNECTION
The main spar caps of each wing are attached to each other with p/n 20591-1/-2 aluminum
attach blocks (upper) and p/n 21087-1/-2 steel attach blocks (lower). It takes one of each block
per spar cap. The main spar webs are attached to each other by the p/n 20990-2 plate of 1/2"
thick 4130N steel. The connection to the fuselage on the aircraft center-line is made with a p/n
20178-1 steel plate of .063 4130N connected to the fuselage structure with two AN5-23A bolts,
and to the two 3/4" bolts through the 20591-1 upper spar cap attach block.
There are four p/n 20177-1 tube-nut welded assemblies and two p/n 20367-1 sleeves in
each wing installation. The sleeves and tube-nuts are drilled 9/32" and reamed .3125 after the
tube-nuts have been fully tightened, and two AN5-16A bolts installed in each sleeve. If the wings
are removed from the aircraft, it is usually necessary to replace the four tube-nut assemblies and
the two sleeves since the .3125 reamed holes through both parts will probably not line up. In this
case, tighten the new tube-nuts 1920 inch pounds torque, position the new sleeves mid-way
between the tube-nuts, drill 9/32" through the sleeve and tube-nut, and ream .3125 for the
AN5-16A bolt installation.
The tube-nut and sleeve installation is to take the “Kick load” due to dihedral angle and
cancel it out by transferring this load from the upper spar caps to the lower spar caps.
To remove the wings, or to inspect the wing center splice connection properly, the hopper
should be removed. Torque values should be checked on the nuts (300 inch-pounds on the 3/8"
nut, 800 inch-pounds on the 1/2" nut, 550 inch-pounds on the 7/16" nut, 1,700 inch-pounds on
the 5/8" nut, and 1,920 inch-pounds on the 3/4" tube-nut assembly. There are NAS1306 bolts
through the small leg of each spar cap that attach to the 20990-2 plate on the aft side of the web.
These 3/8" nuts are checked for torque (300 inch—pounds). The NAS1306 bolts through the web
and the 20992-2 plate have a torque of 300 inch-pounds applied to the nut. The NAS1304 bolts
have a torque of 100 inch-pounds applied to the nut.
Inspect the entire splice connection carefully for signs of bolt working, corrosion, or cracks.
The critical area for the lower spar cap is a station 6.4" from the aircraft center-line where the
3/8" NAS bolt attaches the 21087-1 and -2 blocks to the main leg of the cap. The next critical
area of the lower spar cap would be in the rivet pattern attaching the small leg to the web from
approximate stations 20.0" to 25.0" which is where the inboard fuel tank wall is located. It would
AT-401 September 16, 2009
also be advisable to check carefully the lower side of the main leg in the area where the fuel tank
bottom ends.
For appropriate inspection intervals of the wing center splice connection, see the
“Inspection” section of this manual. If a new wing is to be installed, contact the factory for wing
installation instructions at the time the wing is ordered.
WING WALK
The main wing walk is made of 3-M safety walk 12" wide and is p/n 20232-1. The small
round walk part is p/n 20234-1 and the flap walk is p/n 20233-1. Outboard of the main walk is
p/n 20565-1 walk.
The walk material has adhesive backing but in order to improve the bond to the wing skin,
3-M safety Walk Adhesive is applied to the wing surface. To prevent fuel from getting under the
walk and lifting it, 3-M Edge Sealing Compound is applied along the perimeter of the walk. If the
walk is changed, be sure to order the adhesive and the edge sealing compound for best results.
FUEL TANKS
The fuel tanks are sealed with PKMMC236A1/2 which is brushed on and PKMMC236B1/2
which is a thicker putty-like material for sealing corners or large cracks. Sealing between mating
parts is done during assembly, and final coating is done through the five inspection openings in
the top of the tank.
If a leak develops in service, remove the inspection plates on the lower side of the wing, and
with a flashlight and mirror determine which area of the tanks appear to be leaking. This is
diffcult and sometimes it is necessary to re-seal a large area of the tank to make sure the leak is
covered. Remove the fuel line from the tank to be drained and cap it off so that both tanks will not
need to be drained. Then drain the fuel into clean containers by removing the drain valve from the
tank flange. Then remove the inspection plate on top of the fuel tank nearest the leak area. There
are plate-nuts (NAS680-A4) riveted to the fuel tank top to facilitate plate removal.
Inspect inside of the fuel tank with a flashlight and mirror or a drop-light. CAUTION: Do not
turn either light off or on while the light is inside the fuel tank. A spark from the switch has
caused an explosion and injury in a past instance. Look for a void or bubble of air that could have
popped, leaving a pin-hole leak. If no suspicious areas are found, prepare to re-seal the general
area of the leak.
Clean the area to be re-sealed with an inhibited alkaline cleaner such as M.E.K. with a clean
white rag. A progressive cleaning procedure should be used. Wash one small area at a time, then
dry with a clean cloth before solvent evaporates to prevent redeposition of oil or fuel traces. To
maintain a clean solvent supply, always pour the solvent on the washing cloth.
The sealer kit consists of the proper portion of base compound and accelerator. The accelerator
contains some volatile materials which usually come to the surface so it is extremely important to
stir the accelerator thorougly in its container until an even consistency is obtained. Once the
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accelerator is added to the base material the pot life is limited to two hours at 75 F, 50% relative
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humidity. For every 10 F rise in temperature, application life is reduced by half, and for every
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10 F drop it is doubled. High humidity at the time of mixing shortens application life. For this
reason, it is suggested that only 1/2 of the accelerator is mixed with 1/2 of the base material, so
that if the first attempt to seal the tank is unsuccessful, there will be one more mix of sealer
left for another attempt before a new can has to be opened. If this approach is taken, be sure the
accelerator is sealed in an air-tight container as well as the base material, and that care is taken
to assure that exactly 1/2 of each component is mixed together.
Slowly stir the accelerator into the base compound and thoroughly mix approximately 7 to
10 minutes. Be sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the container in order to include all the
compound in the mixture and to assure uniform blending. Scrape mixing paddle periodically to
remove unmixed compound. Slow mixing by hand is recommended.
Obtain a small paint brush approximately 1/2" to 3/4" wide and trim the bristles to
approximately 1/2" long to increase brush stiffness. Brush the thoroughly mixed sealing
compound over the cleaned suspected leak areas in generous amounts but feather out any runs
that might occur. Watch for bubbles and re-seal any pin-holes. Inspect your work carefully, as
failure means doing the job all over again. Scrape off the old sealer from the fuel tank cover plate
and mating surface, being careful not to get any shavings inside the tank. Seal both the cover
plate and the mating surface and install cover plate. Where the sealer is squeezed out and around
the perimeter of the plate, use your finger to make a smooth fillet.
Allow the sealer to dry at least 6 hours (overnight is preferable) before fueling the tank.
Check carefully for leaks before connecting the fule line to the other tank. If the tank still leaks,
repeat the entire process until the leak is sealed.
FUEL TANK SENDERS
The L/H fuel tank sender has a shorter float arm than the R/H sender and is positioned
differently in the tank. For these reasons the cork at the end of the float arm is still about 3" from
the bottom of the fuel tank when the L/H sender is at the end of its stroke and the receiver on the
instrument panel shows “E”. This results in about 3 to 4 gallons of fuel still remaining in the L/H
tank when the receiver shows “E”. The fuel tanks are inter-connected and if coordinated flight has
been maintained, the R/H tank will show about 1/8 full at the same moment the L/H tanks
shows empty.
The L/H tank sender is Rochester p/n C7740-87 and the R/H sender is p/n C7740-43. The
L/H sender is attached with five 1032 x 1 1/4 stainless screws, 20194-2 bushings and
AN363C1032 nuts. The R/H sender is attached with five 1032 x 1 3/4 stainless screws, 20194-1
bushings, and AN363C1032 nuts. Both sides have p/n 20173-1 teflon washers under the screw
heads for sealing purposes.
Both senders have a 60008-1 wire attached with a banana plug on one end which is
inserted into a banana jack mounted on the inboard fuel tank wall. If a sender is not working
properly, the procedure is to remove the inspection cover from the fuel tank top just forward of the
five sender attach screws and before removing the sender, first push the banana plug firmly into
the jack to be sure proper connection has previously been made. If this has no effect, pull out the
banana plug and connect to an Ohmmeter with the other lead ground. With the float arm all the
way down the Ohmmeter should read zero and with the arm all the way up the ohmmeter should
read 29-30 Ohms. Cycle the arm and the needle should not have an erratic movement. If all is OK,
the sender does not have to be replaced. If there is still indication of a faulty sender, remove the
five screws attaching it to the tank top, being careful not to damage the teflon washers under the
head of each screw. The fuel tank should be drained before the sender is replaced. The five
bushings
AT-401 April 1, 1998
will probably be held in place by the tank sealing compound if care is ken when removing the
sender. Pull the banana plug from the jack and remove the sender.
If the R/H sender is being replaced the cork at the end of the float arm should just touch the
bottom of the tank when the arm is at the end of its stroke. It should touch the top of the tank at
the upper end of the stroke. If it will not quite touch the tank bottom or touches too soon, bend
the arm gently by hand to achieve the desired position. The L/H sender will not touch the tank
bottom, but will touch the tank top.
Before re-installing the inspection plate on the fuel tank top, move the float arm through the
full stroke with the battery switch “On” and the receiver switch on the proper tank to see that the
sender is working properly. Seal the inspection plate per instruction in “Fuel Tank” and re-install.
FUEL TANK RECEIVER
The fuel tank receiver is p/n 50698-1. There is an adjustment screw for the “E” side of the
needle range on the center lower side of the instrument face. The trimmer screw for the “F” side of
the needle range is mounted behind the upper panel to the right of the chip detector light, and
since the slotted end of the trimmer screw is toward the cockpit floor, it is possible to reach under
the panel and with a small screwdriver reach the “F” trimmer screw. (Be sure power is off).
To check the receiver settings, drain all the fuel from the aircraft and jack the tailwheel up
onto a platform until the bottom of the wing tanks are level. Be sure parking brake is “On” as the
tail is quite high in this position. Sighting fore and aft along the tank bottom with the line of sight
meeting the horizon is an easy way to determine when the bottom of the wing tanks are level.
Level the wing tips by placing a barrel and boards under the low wing tiedown ring until both wing
tips are on the horizon.
Then remove the L/H fuel line from the tank and cap the L/H tank outlet and plug the line
to isolate the two tanks. Set the needle on “E” with the adjust screw on the face of the receiver.
Gradually add fuel to the R/H wing tank with the battery switch “On” and the fuel receiver switch
on “R/H”. The battery should be fully charged for this check.
The receiver needle should start to move very slightly off the “E” mark after 1 to 2 gallons of
fuel have entered the tank. Then switch the fuel receiver to “L/H” and gradually add fuel to the
L/H tank. When approximately 4 to 6 gallons have entered the tank the needle should move
slightly off the “E” mark. To check the “F” mark, lower the tailwheel to the ground and fill both
tanks completely full. Adjust the trimmer screw behind the panel until both tanks show “F”. Due
to slight differences in resistance in the senders, one tank may show “F” with the needle at the
bottom side of the ”F” mark, and the other tank at the top side.
FUEL SYSTEM DRAINS
The wing tanks have Curtis CCA-1650 drain valves. If the valves leak, remove them and
check the seals for nicks or look for trash between the seal and the valve seat. Apply some 3H
permatex or equivalent to the threads of all drains before they are re-installed. If the seals need
replacing, the entire valve must be replaced, as Curtis will not sell the seals.
The header tank drain is a Curtis CCA-39000 and is stainless. It should be activated daily.
This is the most important drain in the system. Be careful not to cross-thread drains when
replacing.
FUEL SYSTEM SCREENS AND FILTERS
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Each wing tank has a finger strainer soldered to the 90 elbow at the tank outlet. This screen
should be removed and cleaned at least once a year during the annual inspection. The wobble
pump incorporates a fine screen and this screen should be removed and cleaned at least every
annual inspection.
FUEL WOBBLE PUMP
The wobble pump is a military surplus U.A.P. Type D-2 that has been overhauled and
modified in accordance with drawings 50542 and 50157. The modification involves the
substitution of O-rings for the usual packing around the wobble pump arm. These O-rings will
wear slightly in time and if there is evidence of leaking around the wobble pump arm, the O-rings
should be replaced. There are three AN6227-9B O-rings on the wobble pump shaft, and can be
replaced by removing the arm and the knurled nut on the outboard side of the wobble pump.
AILERONS
The ailerons are all-metal and require very little maintenance. The lead counterweight will
sometimes loosen on the long AN3-33A bolt through the lead and the support tube. If this is the
case it would be advisable to remove the counterweight and support tube and drill and ream for a
larger bolt. To do this remove the aileron from the aircraft by removing the nuts from the three
hinge fittings, removing the four screws in the inspection plate where the push-rod attaches to the
wing bellcrank, and removing the nut from the bolt through the bellcrank and push-rod. Note that
there is a spacer washer between the aluminum hinge and the support arm bearing, and that
there is a AN970-4 large washer on the outboard side of the bearing under the bolt head.
With the AN4-10A bolts pointing inboard, the correct order of parts would be a AN970-4
washer under the bolt head, then a AN960-416L washer, then the bearing then a AN960-416
washer, then the aluminum aileron hinge, then a AN960-416 washer, then a AN365-428A nut.
The steel inboard hinge uses an AN4-25A bolt, with a AN960-416 washer under the head, then
the steel hinge, then the bearing, then a AN970-4 washer, then a AN960-416 washer, then a
AN365-428A nut. Leave the push-rod attached to the aileron and reach through the inspection
plate opening and remove the bolt attaching the push-rod to the wing bellcrank. Be sure to have
someone holding up on the aileron trailing edge, and the control stick lock should be in
place.Then remove the center hinge bolt, with someone at each end of the aileron, remove the two
outboard bolts, lift up on the push-rod to keep it from dragging, and remove the aileron from the
aircraft.
The counterweight support tube is p/n 20279-1 and can be removed from the aileron by removing
the two plug buttons on the upper and lower side of the aileron nose skin and removing the AN3-
12A bolt that attaches the support tube to the support structure that is riveted to the aileron. The
counterweight and support tube can then be taken to the workbench where the long AN3-33A bolt
is removed. Leaving the parts together, clamp the counterweight to the base of the drill-press,
using a long 3/16" drill bit chucked in the drill press align the spindle with the 3/16 hole through
the counterweight and support tube. Then change to a 7/32" drill bit and enlarge the hole. Then
ream .248 through both parts. Grease the new AN4-33A bolt and install. Re-install
AT-401 April 1, 1998
the counterweight and support tube on the aileron and check for a snug fit. The AN3 bolts have a
torque of 60 inch-pounds applied at the nut, the AN4 bolts have a torque of 100 inch-pounds
applied at the nut. Re-install the aileron in the reverse order as removed, taking care that the
washer arrangement is correct. The bolt through the push rod and wing bellcrank is an AN4-12A
with a AN960-416 washer under the head and one under the AN365-428A nut.
While the aileron is removed, check the aluminum hinges for secure attachment to the spar,
and check the steel hinge for signs of corrosion, or loose rivets, or cracks in the welded areas.
Inspect both ends of the push-rods for cracks in the threads, check the rod-end bearing (Fafnir
RE4F6-2) for condition and lubrication, and be sure the check nut against the bearing is snug.
After the aileron has been re-installed and an inspection of all connections has been made,
reach through the inspection plate opening and check to see if the push-rod is free to rotate
slightly as the aileron is moved through the full range of travel. After being sure the bolt through
the push-rod and wing bellcrank has been torqued, re-install the inspection plate with the four
screws.
The bearings in the aileron support arms are Fafnir KP4A and make a press-fit into the 1/4"
aluminum arm, and are staked on both sides. These bearings are sealed, require no lubrication,
and should not require replacement in service.
FLAPS
The flaps are attached to the 3/8" aluminum flap arms with AN4-24A bolts. The order of
washers and parts with the bolts pointing inboard is a AN970-4 large washer under the bolt head
(except at the boom hangar location where a AN960-416 is used), then the bearing (Fafnir KP4),
then the steel flap arms, then a AN960-416 washer, then a AN365-428A nut.
The flap push-rod is attached to the flap with a AN4-25A bolt which is pointing outboard,
and the order of parts is AN970-4 washer under the bolt head, then the steel flap arm, then two
AN960-416 washers, then a AN365-428A nut. The push-rod has an adjustable Fafnir RE4M6
bearing with a AN316-6 check nut. Be sure that the RE4M6 bearing is positioned to allow the
push-rod to be rotated slightly from side to side.
During annual inspections, the AN4-25A bolt through the push-rod should be checked for
straighness, and if bent, both the bolt and bearing should be replaced immediately. As a precau-
tion against a fatigue failure, the RE4M6 bearing in the flap push-rod should be changed at least
every 2,000 hours, since a large man standing on the flap trailing edge exerts a considerable force
on the push-rod, which puts a bending force on the threads of the bearing. At 100 hour intervals,
remove the lower fuselage side skins under the cockpit and while the flaps are being cycled
through the full range of travel, check to see if the push-rod drags on any fuselage parts. With the
flaps full down, move the ailerons through the full range of travel and check clearence between
the flap push-rod and the ailerons through the full range of travel and check clearance between
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the flap push-rod and the aileron push-rod. If the tubes touch, check flap rigging as the 26 down
travel has probably been exceeded.
AILERON AND FLAP RIGGING
With the flap actuator in the “Up” position, the flap push-rods are adjusted so that the lower
side of the flaps form a straight line with the lower side of the fuel tank at station 61.0. Flap
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travel from this point is then set at 26 (+/- 1 1/2 ). Flap markings on the flap are located opposite
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the wing flap bay upper skin so that the pilot will view the markings at 10 , 20 , and at full travel.
The ailerons are rigged with the trailing edge 1/8" to 3/16" below the flap trailing edge so
that flight loads will bring the trailing edge up approximately even with the flap trailing edge.
o o o o
Aileron travel (with flaps up) is 20 up (+/-1 ) and 14 down (+/-1 ). Aileron control stops are
located under the cockpit floor on each side of the torque tube horn. The adjustment consists of
tightening or loosening the bolts that compress a stack of 6 to 7 neoprene washers (p/n 70067-1).
The neoprene washers act as shock absorbers for the control system, but sometimes split and fall
out, so it is advisable to inspect the stops during annual inspections.
The aileron and flap control system components under the cockpit floor are rigged as
follows:
1. Set the control lock on the stick. Flaps full up.

2. Check the length of the push-rod assembly (p/n 70014-2) that connects the flap torque
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tube to the 90 bellcrank. It should measure 6.65" from bearing hole to bearing hole.
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3. Check the length of the push-rod assembly (p/n70014-4) that connects the 90 bellcrank
to the rectangular welded support frame assembly (p/n 70072-1). It should measure
13.78".
4. Check the length of the push-rod assembly (p/n 70014-3 that connects the aileron control
o
horn to the 180 bellcrank. It should measure 14.88".
5. With all push-rods the correct length, the 70072-1 support frame assembly should clear
the fuselage vertical tube at the bottom approximately 1/4".
6. The push-rod assembly (p/n 70014-1) that connects the wing bellcrank to the aileron will
be approximately 10.69" long but this is the push-rod that is adjusted to provide the
necessary trailing edge setting with respect to the flap.
AILERON AND FLAP BELLCRANKS AND SUPPORTS
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The 180 bellcrank under the cockpit floor is p/n 70076-1 and is interchangeable right to
left. The welding operation on these bellcranks sometimes causes a slight warp which will reduce
the clearance from the 70072-1 support frame, so if the bellcranks are changed, be sure there is
ample clearance and if necessary reverse the direction of the AN24-19A clevis bolt that connects
the push-rods to improve clearance. These bellcranks have Fafnir KP6A bearings installed with a
70081-2 stainless spacer that allows the AN4-42A bolt that connects the bellcrank to the support
frame assembly to be fully torqued (100 inch-pounds at the nut).
The support frame (p/n 70072-1) is attached to the floor structure with a AN4-50A bolt.
There are two Fafnir KP6A bearings in the support frame and a 70081-1 stainless bushing allows
full bolt torque same as with the 70076-1 bellcrank. The KP6A bearings are sealed and require no
lubrication. Some end play will develop due to tolerance accumulation, but up to .040” is
acceptable.
AT-401 April 1, 1998
The aileron bellcranks in the wings are attached to a welded structure with an AN4-46A bolt
and have a p/n 70081-3 stainless spacer to allow full bolt torque. Bearings are Fafnir KP6A. The
wing bellcranks are p/n 70079-1 (L/H) and 70079-2 (R/H). Maximum end play of the wing
bellcrank is .03". The bolt attaching the wing bellcranks may be reached by removing the plug
buttons (11/16) on the top and bottom skins. To remove the bellcrank from the wing it is
necessary to remove some rivets attaching the lower wing skin. Remove rivets that can be easily
reached for re-installation.
o
The 90 bellcranks that connect to the flap torque tube are p/n 70082-1 and are inter-
changeable R/H to L/H. They are connected to the fuselage frame with AN6-34A bolts and a p/n
70085-1 spacer bushing to allow full torque of 300 inch-pounds to be used during bolt installa-
tion. At each end of the spacer bushing is a 90011-1 large washer to contain the Torrington p/n
B812 needle bearing. These needle bearings should be checked, cleaned, and packed with general
purpose grease once a year during annual inspections. During re-assembly, make sure the
70085-1 spacer bushing has been faced off square on each end because if it is not, the slight
chamfer or bevel will cause the 90011-1 washer to distort and drag the bellcrank face. With the
AN6-34A bolt fully torqued, there should be positive clearance between the 90011-1 washers and
the bellcrank, with end play not to exceed .03". Check the bellcrank end for excessive wobble
which would indicate a worn needle bearing, spacer bushing, or both. The needle bearing should
hand press-fit into the bore of the bellcrank, and the spacer bushing should be a loose sliding fit
inside the needle bearing. The bolt should make a loose sliding fit on the spcer bushing. While the
bellcrank is removed, check for any sign of bending of the plates or cracks in welds. These
bellcranks are subject to bending if the aircraft is parked with the tail into a high wind and the
ailerons begin a flutter motion even though the stick is locked. If the bellcranks are bent, replace
them.
The flap torque tube is attached to the fuselage frame with two AN4-10A bolts. The bearings
which are pressed into the torque tube fittings and staked are NMB p/n ABT4 and are spherical
bearings with a stainless ball and a teflon lining. As this type of bearing has some drag, be sure
the AN4-10A attach bolts are fully torqued. These bearings do not require lubrication. The 2.0"
diameter flap torque tube consists of the welded assembly and bearings only. At the extreme end
of each side of the torque tube is a 1/4" aluminum arm (p/n 70027-1) which also has a NMB p/n
ABT4 bearing installed. The two flap push-rods attach to the bearings with AN4-10A bolts and
should be torqued to 100 inch-pounds at the nut same as the fuselage attach bolts.
Two smaller 1/4" aluminum arms attach the torque tube to the flap actuator “Tee”. These
arms are p/n 70032-1 and have a KP6A bearing pressed into place and staked.
FLAP ACTUATOR
The flap actuator assembly is a Commercial Aircraft Products p/n D-145-00-35. This actua-
tor uses micro-switches to limit the down and up travel to the flaps. The micro-switches are p/n
BZ2R5551-A2 and the arm with the roller attached that actuates the mirco-switch is an AN3169-
1 arm. The motor for the actuator can be purchased separately and is p/n C-145-250-1. The
actuator assembly attaches to the fuselage frame with an AN4-16A bolt. At this connection there
is also a 70026-1 spacer bushing and a Bunting P31-8 bronze bushing. If the actuator is replaced
or removed, be sure both bushings are in place.
May 2, 1994 AT-401
The actuator assembly has a threaded collar. This collar is threaded internally to match the
threads on the worm drive threads of the actuator, and is threaded externally to match the
threads of the Air Tractor “Tee” assembly which is p/n 70037-1. The “Tee” assembly is attached
to the two 1/4" aluminum 70032-1 arm assemblies that are bolted to the flap torque tube
assembly. The “Tee” assembly has a steel grease shield and cap attached. The shield is p/n
70039-1 and is attached to the “Tee” with two AN500A5-3 screws. The cap is a 1 1/8 SC. Caplug
attached to the shield with a TY-525 Tyrap.
The “Tee” assembly that screws into the Threaded collar has a AN565D6H4 set screw that is
located on the top surface of the “Tee”. The threaded collar has a large diameter rounded surface,
and just forward is a smaller diameter part on the collar that is to be used for tightening the
collar against the “Tee”. Whenever it is necessary to remove the flap actuator, the factory practice
is to first loosen the set screw in the “Tee” assemlby with a small Allen wrench, then place a soft
rag or duct tape on the small diameter of the threaded collar so as not to scratch the finish and
with a pair of water-pump pliers or vice-grips, break loose the connection between the threaded
collar and the “Tee” assembly. Then the threaded collar can be screwed by hand from the “Tee”.
CAUTION: Have someone hold up on the flap trailing edge so the flaps will not fall down against
the boom hangers.
See the section “Flap Actuator Trouble Shooting” for a step by step procedure for removing
the actuator assembly from the aircraft.
Entrance inside the fuselage is made easier by removing the lower R/H pulley next to the
header tank so that the rudder interconnect cable will not be in the way, and entering the
fuselage from the R/H side. Remember that there is a washer under the pulley when it is re-
installed.
All wires from the flap actuator assembly have Wristlock connections so that it is not
necessary to cut or splice wires when the actuator is removed. Also, it is possible to replace the
motor without removing the actuator assembly.
FLAP ACTUATOR TROUBLE SHOOTING
If any trouble develops, first check the flap circuit breaker on the panel. If this does not
produce any results, a visual inspection of the mico-switches and micro-switch arms should be
made. Enter the fuselage as described before and inspect the micro-switches for broken actuator
arms or loose wires. The flaps can be retracted by rotating by hand the rubber coupling at the
motor shaft. This is slow, but the flaps can be raised this way.
If the flaps are up but won’t go down, chances are there is something wrong with the down
micro-switch. If the flaps are down but won’t go up, look for trouble with the up micro-switch.
The flap micro switches have a 60635-1 diode assembly accross the NC and C switch terminals.
This diode greatly increases the life of the switch. Before checking the switch remove the diode
and check it as follows: With an ohm meter check continuity through the diode. It should read
near infinity with the leads one way and near zero with the leads reversed. If the diode is shorted
or open replace it. When installing the diode be careful to observe the polarity. The negative side
of the diode is marked with a stripe and the stripe corresponds with the vertical line on the diode
symbol on the schematic.
o
If the flap goes down past the 26 mark, check the down micro-switch. Have someone cycle
the flaps and see if the roller on the micro-switch arm lifts properly on the striker plate and
pushes in the micro-switch plunger to stop the travel. If there is any doubt, push the plunger in
AT-401 April 1, 1998
with the flap midway through the stroke. If the switch is working, the flap will stop. In this case,
the down micro-switch needs to be re-positioned to activate the micro-switch.
Check the micro-switches with an Ohmmeter. Before checking continuity with the Ohmme-
ter remove the diode assembly. Check continuity between the “C” pin and the “N.C.” pin on both
switches. Activate the switch by pushing the plunger in and check continuity between the “C” pin
and the “N.O.” pin. If these checks are positive, the micro-switches are OK and do not need to be
changed. If a switch is bad, change it. See drawing 60198 for flap system wiring schematic.
The actuator jack screw is fitted with a stop to mechanically limit the ball nut travel in case
of a problem with the down micro switch. If you replace the actuator, the new one will come with
a new stop nut. To install the stop nut, first install the p/n 70037-1 "tee nut", that was installed
on the old actuator. Install the AN565D6H4 set screw. Now that the Tee nut is installed, install
the left hand thread stop nut with Loctite RC-609. The roll pin hole has already been drilled.
Torque the stop nut until the hole in the nut aligns with the hole in the threaded end of the jack
screw. Install the roll pin. Install the shield with the AN500A5-3 screw and lock washer. Be
sure not to leave out the lock washer. Safety wire the screws.
Flap Actuator Removal Instructions:
1. Disconnect all wires at Wristlock connections in wire harness and identify wires for re-
assembly.
2. Remove the 4 AN4 bolts that attach the aluminum arms on the flap “Tee” to the torque
tube.
CAUTION: Have someone hold up on the flap trailing edge before the last bolt is removed.
3. Remove the nut and washer from the AN4 bolt attaching the actuator assembly to the
fuselage frame.
4. Remove the AN4 bolt, paying close attention to the spacer bushing inside the bronze
bushing, and lower the flaps to rest on boom hangers.
5. Check rubber coupling on motor shaft for excessive back-lash
With the complete actuator on the work bench, if it is desired to change the actuator itself,
perform the following.
1. Remove the two screws that hold the dust shield to the lower end of the assembly.
2. Use open end wrench to remove down over-ride stop from end of jack-screw. CAUTION:
This stop is left-hand threads.
3. Loosen the set screw in the top of the “Tee” assembly with a small Allen wrench.
4. With water-pump pliers or vice-grips, breake loose the collar from the “Tee” assembly.
5. Unscrew striker by hand out of “Tee assembly.
Flap Actuator Installation Instructions:
1. Re-install actuator in aircraft in reverse order as removal.

2. Raise flaps to full up position with flap switch in cockpit. Check position of flaps relative
to wing (See Flap and Aileron Rigging section of this manual).
3. With flaps properly positioned with respect to the lower side of the wing there should be a
gap 1/16" to 1/8" between the striker and the end of the up travel (See Note 5, drawing
70031). If the gap is not within the range above, use the flap switch in the cockpit to
provide the proper gap. Then it will be necessry to set the flap position with respect to the
lower wing surface by adjusting the flap push-rods.
August 10, 2003 AT-401
4. Then loosen the two screws holding the UP micro-switch and adjust the micro-switch until
a click is heard. Tighten the two screws and once more use the flap switch in the cockpit
to lower and then raise the flaps to the full up position. Again check the gap between the
striker and the end of the up travel for 1/16" to 1/8" travel. Check position of flaps with
respect to the wing lower surface. If all is in order, proceed to set the down micro-switch.
o
5. Extend the flaps to 26 and adjust the lower micro-switch until a click is heard. Re-cycle
the flaps and check down travel again.
6. Re-check the position of the UP micro-switch two ways: Raise the flaps all the way with
the flap switch. After the flaps are fully retracted continue to hold the flap switch up and
observe the voltmeter. If the voltmeter shows excessive voltage drop, the micro-switch has
not turned off the current. If this check is OK, then check the distance between the striker
and the end of the up travel which should be 1/16" to 1/8" as mentioned in steps 3 and 4.
FLAP MOTOR TROUBLE SHOOTING
If the micro-switches appear OK the flap motor may be checked as follows:
1. Slide the conduit down from the wire splice (Wristlock) where the yellow and black wires
go into the wire bundle.
2. Note which wire the black wire from the motor connects to.
3. Use an outside source of power (24 volts) protected with a circuit breaker. Ground the
negative power source and attach the positive wire to the black wire. The motor should
run in one direction. Attach the positive wire to the yellow motor wire and the motor
should run in the other direction.
4. If the motor does not respond as described above, it is faulty and should be replaced. It is
attached to the actuator by two 1032 nuts. Be sure rubber coupling is in good condition
when motor is replaced.
HORIZONTAL STABILIZERS
The horizontal stabilizers require very little maintenance since they are all metal. They are
attached to the fuselage frame with two NAS1304-8 bolts which have a washer under the head
and two under the nut. On annual inspections the gap cover should be removed from the
stabilizer and the bolt condition and torque checked. At the same time inspect the fuselage
fittings closely for cracks. Torque is 100 inch-pounds at the nut. The gap covers are attached with
90008-1 stainless self-tapping screws which are Phillips trusshead #4x1/4" long. A No. 39 hole is
drilled for the screw installation. The P580001 rubber channel is a Cessna part and is attached
with 3-M 8001 Adhesive.
The stabilizer is sealed on the ends with PR1422A1/2 to prevent chemical entry. There are
two eyebolts that attach to a welded steel brace inside the stabilizer. The eyebolts are for strut
attachment and both eyebolts are AN47-22A for s/n 401-0701 and up, and AN44-17A (rear) and
AN44-21A (front) through 401-0700. WARNING: For planes through s/n 401-0700 the AN44-17A
and AN-44-21A eyebolts should be replaced after 1,350 hours TIS and thereafter at 1,350 hour
intervals in accordance with service letter #129. Under each nut are two AN960-716 washers and
the nut is a AN365-720. The factory procedure is to align the face of the eyebolts with the strut
clevis before the nut on the eyebolt is fully torqued (550 inch-pounds). Above the nut is a 7/8
plug bottom (TRW p/n SS-48155).
There is a p/n 30137-1 (L/H) and 30137-2 (R/H) trim control idler attached to each
stabilizer rear spar on the inboard end. Each trim idler has two Bunting P26-10 bushings press
fit inside the welded assembly and a p/n 30070-1 spacer bushing allows the AN3-32A attach bolt
AT-401 June 26, 2000
to be fully torqued (60 inch-pounds at the nut). The brackets that attach the trim idlers are p/n
30049-1 and 30049-2 but should never need replacing unless the AN3-32A bolt has become loose
and caused wear in the holes.
One of the idler arms is attached to the push-rod connected to the trim tab horn and this
arm has a Bunting P19-1 bushing press-fit into the idler arm. This is the same size bushing in
the trim tab horn and both should be replaced when excessive trim tab free-play develops. The
Bunting bushings are oil-impregnated, but if new ones are installed, fill the bushings to overflow-
ing with general purpose oil and with finger pressure squeeze on the bushing ends to force the oil
into the small cavities inside the bushings.
STABILIZER STRUTS
The stabilizer struts attach to the fuselage frame with a AN6C11A bolt and to the stabilizer
eyebolts with AN6-11A bolts. There are p/n 30256-1 stainless terminals with AN316C8 check
nuts at each strut end to allow for adjustment.
The struts are constructed of 2.36 x 1.00 x .049 413ON streamlined tubing and may be
repaired if necessary. They are oiled internally through the threaded fittings on the ends, and
should be re-oiled if repaired. They are grit-blasted, primed with U.S. Paint R9006-K-13 Epoxy,
and finished with yellow 92-Y-444 Alumigrip paint. WARNING: The forward gusset on the
inboard end of the struts will erode from having dry fertilizer particles strike the lower aft portion
of the fuselage structure. Substantial strength reduction of the strut to fuselage connection will
occur when the gusset is severely eroded. Consult Service Letter #198 for appropriate action.
STABILIZER RIGGING
To rig the stabilizers, the elevators must be removed. The factory practice is to adjust the
terminal in the forwad strut so that approximately the same amount of threads is showing on
both R/H and L/H struts. The struts are pinned to the fuselage fittings and the stabilizers are
pinned to the fuselage attach fittings (Don’t forget the washers under each bolt head) but no nuts
yet. Have someone hold up the stabilizer tips when they are being attached. Then attach the
struts to the forward eyebolts only. Sight down the stabilizer hinge line to see that the hinges on
both sides of the aircraft line up within .03". Adjust each strut length the same amount until the
hinges are in line. Then stand directly behind the aircraft on the exact fuselage centerline and
raise or lower your line of sight until the same part of each stabilizer falls in the line of sight with
a reference point on the wings. It is likely that the terminal on one strut will have to be
lengthened a certain number of turns and the opposite strut shortened the same number of turns
so that the stabilizers line up with the wings.
Then adjust the terminal at the rear eyebolt on each side so that the bolts can be inserted
without causing a twist in the stabilizers. All bolts are now in place and it is necessary to re-
check the hinge alignment from side to side, and re-check the stabilizer position with the wings. If
all is still in order, install the washers and nuts on all ten attach bolts (five each side). Torque the
AN4 bolts to 100 inch-pounds on the nut and torque the AN6 bolts to 300 inch-pounds on the
nut. Then snug the check nuts at the end of each terminal to 290 inch-pounds torque. Take a
piece of safety wire and insert in the small inspection hole at each terminal location to be sure the
terminal is screwed into the strut fitting far enough.
Re-check nut installation on the stabilizer to frame location and install the gap covers with
the 90008-1 screws. If the rubber channel is loose on the gap cover, re-attach with 3-M 8001
adhesive before the gap cover is installed.
April 1, 1998 AT-401
VERTICAL FIN
The cantilever vertical fin is attached to the fuselage frame at the front spar location with
two NAS1306-13 bolts and AN365-624 nuts. It has been found that these two bolts tend to loosen
in service. No doubt buffeting from the propeller slipstream during run-up and stresses from
turns tend to produce constant loads from side to side that tend to loosen the nuts.
Check the torque on the two NAS1306-13 bolts at 100 hour intervals. If the bolt is held
stationary and the torque wrench applied to the nut, the torque value should be 420 inch-
pounds. For the reverse of this procedure, torque should be 460 inch-pounds.
The rear spar attaches to the fuselage frame with AN3 bolts of various lengths, depending
on the amount of shims required between the fuselage frame and the rear spar. The shims are of
various thickness (.063, .080, .125) and the upper shims are combinations of p/n 30159-1, -2, or
-3 while the lower shims are combinations of p/n 30160-1, -2, or -3.
The vertical fin rear spar is drilled on installation where the attachment is made to top
longeron. If a new fin is installed, make a drill template from the original fin rear spar in order to
drill the four 3/16" holes for the attachment to the upper longeron. The template should be 2.44"
wide and long enough to pick up the two lower attach bolts. The template should be made of
either aluminum or steel, at least .063" thick.
Install the fin on the aircraft and install the bolts at the front and rear spar locations. Be
sure the correct amount of shims is used between the fuselage frame and the rear spar. The
NAS1306-13 front spar bolts have a torque of 420 inch-pounds at the nut. The rear spar bolts
have a torque of 60 inch-pounds at the nut.
RUDDER
The rudder is attached to the vertical fin with three AN4-10A bolts, with a AN960-416
washer under the bolt head, and two washers under the AN365-428A nut. The rudder hinges
have NMB p/n ABT4 bearings installed, which are staked on each side of the 1/4" thick hinge
fitting. Since there is a certain amount of drag with these spherical bearings, it is very important
to fully torque (100 inch-pounds at the nut) the three AN4-10A bolts that attach the rudder to the
fin. If the bolts are loose, the bolts will turn on the fin hinge brackets and cause the holes to
become elongated.
The bearings have little wear, but if it is necessary to replace them, construct a “puller” that
will apply force to the outer ring of the bearing with the opposing force against the aluminum
housing. A AN4 bolt though both parts of the “puller” should be tightened until the bearing rim is
pulled past the stake marks and the bearing comes out of the housing. When the new bearing is
installed, re-stake with a center punch.
The rudder horn is p/n 70092-1 and has two p/n 70093-1 bushings installed for wear at
the cable attachment. The horn is attached to the rudder assembly with two AN4C7A bolts.
o o o
Rudder control stops are at the rudder horn and the rudder travel is 21 Left, +/-1 , or 21
Right.
RUDDER CONTROLS
The rudder cables are p/n 70095-1 and attach to stainless link plates (p/n 70094-1) at the
rudder horn with AN4C10 bolts, AN310C4 nuts, AN960C416 washers, MS24665-151 cotters.
AT-401 April 1, 1998
There are four MS24566-3B pulleys in the rudder cable system to the cockpit.
In the cockpit, the rudder cables attach to a steel p/n 70096-1 plate which is bolted to a
p/n 70101-1 aluminum adjust channel. Also attached to the 70096-1 plate is a p/n 70098-1
cable assembly which interconnects the rudder with the aileron control system. The interconnect
springs under the cockpit floor are p/n 70103-1 and attach to a MS21255-3LS cable eye.
MS21251B3S barrel, MS21255-3RS cable eye, AN100C4 thimble and 18-2-G Nicopress sleeve.
The rudder pedal hanger assembly (p/n 70109-1) slides in the adjust channel and is held in
place with a D5-10T-303 Faspin. The hanger assembly has a spring attached to pull it forward to
remove slack from the rudder cable. The spring is attached to an eyebolt in the hanger assembly
and is p/n 70102-1.
The rudder pedal castings are p/n 70115-1 (L/H) and 70115-2 (R/H) and may be removed
by taking out the AN3 bolt through the p/n 1SC Caplug on the inboard end of the hanger
assembly and removing the AN4-10 bolt attaching the master cylinder strap. The castings should
be removed at 2,000 hour intervals and inspected for cracks around the bronze bushing (p/n
70116-1), bushing wear, and general condition. Grease the hanger assembly and slide the casting
back in place. Be sure to use the AN310-4 castle nut with a MS24665-151 cotter on the AN4-10
bolt connecting the master cylinder strap. Also, be sure an AN960-416 washer is installed
between the strap and casting, and work the brake several times to be sure clearance exists
between the straps and the casting. While the casting is removed, check the condition of the (p/n
70492-1) bronze bushing in the master cylinder strap (p/n 70490-1). Oil the bronze bushings
with a general purpose oil before re-installing the bolts.
ELEVATORS
The elevators are attached to the stabilizers and to the pedestal in the fuselage with
AN4-10A bolts, with a AN960-416 washer under the bolt head and two washers under the
AN365-428A nut except at the pedestal where only one washer is under the nut. The elevator
horns connect to the aft push-rod with a AN4-10A bolt, two AN960-416 washers (placed to give
maximum fuselage clearance), and a AN365-428A nut.
Like the rudder, the elevators and center pedestal have NMB p/n ABT4 spherical bearings
installed, and due to bearing drag, it is very important for all bolts connecting the elevators and
the horns to be fully torqued (100 inch-pounds at the nut). We have seen elevator horns with
badly elongated holes because the elevators had been replaced in the field and the bolts were not
fully torqued.
A repair for elongated holes in the horns has been to drill out the holes to 9/32", ream with
a special .3120 reamer (available at the factory if required), and installing a press-fit 4130N steel
bushing .3125 to .3130 O.D. x .250 I.D x .080 long. With the bushing in place, heli-arc weld the
bushing to the horn in two places with 1/8" long weld beads. Then sand, etch, paint with Ag Air
yellow epoxy.
To replace the bearings, see the section on “Rudder” for instructions.
Elevator stops are at the elevator horn. The down stop has a p/n 70067-1 neoprene washer
in compression to absorb shocks and sometimes this washer splits and falls out so during 100
hour inspections, check to see if this washer is in place. Also, if the control stick is pulled back
sharply against the up stop or if a wind gust blows the elevator up, the up stop bracket will bend
and should be straightened if found to be bent.
o o o
Elevator travel is 28 up, 16 down, +/-1 .
May 2, 1994 AT-401
ELEVATOR CONTROLS
The aft elevator push-rod that connects to the elevator horns is p/n 70020-1 and is
adjustable on the forward end which has a Fafnir RE4M6 bearing installed. The aft end of the
push-rod has a NMB p/n ABT 4 bearing same as the elevator and rudder and is pressed into
place and staked same as in other applications. If it is to be removed, see the “Rudder” section for
removal instructions.
The aft elevator idler is p/n 70023-1 and attaches to the fuselage frame with a AN4-17A
bolt. This idler has two Torrington B 610 bearings installed, with a p/n 70055-1 spacer bushing
and two 1/4 x 3/4 x 1/16 commercial plated washers on each end to contain the Torrington
bearings. During annual inspections, this idler should be removed, and the bearings cleaned and
packed with general purpose grease. Check for excessive wobble on the lower end of the idler
which would indicate worn bearings, or a worn spacer, or both. When the idler is re-installed be
sure to grease the bolt before installation and torque to 100 inch-pounds at the nut. After
installation, check the aft push rod to see that it will rotate slightly in either direction to indicate
that the RE4M6 bearing is positioned properly, and check the AN316-6 check nut at the bearing
for snug.
Also remove the control lock and push the elevator through the full range of travel, checking
the clearance of the bolt through the elevator horns with the fuselage structure. Since two
washers are installed on this bolt, one may be under the bolt head, or both may be under the nut,
depending upon which arrangement gives the best clearance to the fuselage structure.
Check the position of the eyebolt in the aft idler that the tail wheel lock spring is attached
to. The spring is International Harvester p/n 54548-D and if the eyebolt is positioned correctly,
the spring end will slide easily through the eyebolt as the elevator is moved from full down to full
up. A little grease at this point will help.
The tail lock cable is p/n 40043-1, attaches to a AN115-21 shackle and MS20392-2-21
clevis pin at the lock pin lifting arms (p/n 40019-1), is supported by a 40701-00 guide at the tail
spring clamp and at the upper end attaches to a MS21251-B3S barrel, MS21255-3LS cable eye
and then to the 54548-D spring mentioned above. The cable passes through a p/n 70126-1 guide
block where it enters the fuselage. Check the cable for wear at the fairlead, and at the guide block
location.
A large aluminum push-rod (p/n 70011-1) connects the aft elevator idler to the forward
idler (p/n 70117-1). The aluminum push-rod is attached to the lower end of the aft idler with
AN43B-15A eyebolt with 4 each AN960-416 washers under the head and 4 washers under the
nut. It attaches to the upper end of the forward idler with a AN4-13A bolt. The push-rod has a
Fafnir RE4S10 bearing installed with 79-040-187-0937 rollpins in each end. In case the bearings
wear out they can be replaced, but be sure to order them drilled for assembly. If the aircraft is
parked outside in a moderate wind with the side skins removed, the aluminum push-rod will
vibrate excessively, so it is a good idea to have only one side skin removed at a time for working
outside in the wind.
The forward idler is attached to the fuselage frame with AN4-50A bolt. Fafnir KP6A bearings
are installed in each end and a stainless spacer bushing (p/n 70081-1) allows the bolt to be fully
torqued (100 inch-pounds at the nut). The forward idler will have end play but up to .040 is
acceptable.
AT-401 April 1, 1998
COCKPIT CONTROLS
The control stick assembly is p/n 70049-1 and is attached to the 70050-1 torque tube
assembly with a AN4-31A bolt. The lower end of the control stick is machined aluminum part
(p/n 70043-1) which houses two Fafnir KP4 bearings held in place by two p/n 1300-93 snap
rings. The control stick weld assembly is p/n 70047-1 and is chrome-plated and oiled internally.
The control stick grip is a Automatic Flagman p/n NAI #135-4
A p/n 70120-1 push-rod connects the control stick to the forward idler assembly with a
AN4-13A bolt in each end. The push-rod has Fafnir RE4H6 bearings in each end, attached with
79-040-187-0937 roll pins. If new bearings are ordered, be sure to specify that they are to be
drilled for installation.
The 70050-1 torque tube is supported on each end with a p/n 70160-1 housing assembly
which attaches to the fuselage frame with AN5-14A bolts and a 70054-1 spacer block between the
housing and the floor. Each housing assembly has a grease fitting installed and the grease should
be applied at least during annual inspections. The bronze bushings in the housings are Bunting
EF1416-16 which may be replaced if required. The bushing is a flange type and after a period of
time bushing wear will cause fore- and aft slack in the torque tube as the elevators are moved up
and down with the control stick. The slack may be removed by adding a .010 thick shim (p/n
3088A which is 7/8 I.D. x 1 3/8 O.D. With the torque tube all the way against the rear flange,
clearance on the front flange should be between .001 to .005. If the shim is a little too thick, the
face of the forward flange can be faced off slightly if desired.
The forward end of the torque tube has a p/n 70149-1 boot and a 70144-1 boot ring
installed, with 90008-1 screws attaching the boot ring to the floor. On the aft cockpit wall, a p/n
70148-1 boot, 70142-1 boot ring seal the forward elevator push-rod entrance. The hopper handle
has a p/n 80168-1 boot with a p/n 70140-1 boot ring, and the spray lever push-rod has a p/n
80131-1 boot with p/n 70154-1 boot ring. The trim push-rod has a p/n 70070-1 boot and a p/n
70143-1 boot ring.
A p/n 70478-1 control lock assembly is attached to two AN42B-4A eyebolts that are part of
the instrument panel attachment. An Ajax #38 spring keeps the control lock pulled down out of
the way.
ELEVATOR TRIM TABS
The elevator trim tabs are p/n 30055-1 L/H, 30055-2 R/H and attach to the elevators with
90015-5 screws (Machine screws, stainless, truss head, Phillips, 1032 x 1/2" long). There are
NAS680A3 anchor nuts installed on the elevators for these screws.
A p/n 70152-1 push-rod attaches to the trim tab horn and to the idler arm in the stabilizer
with AN3-6 bolts, AN310-3 nuts, AN960-10 washers, MS24665-151 cotters. Be sure the push-rod
is positioned with the bend on the fwd end approximately under the elevator spar tube. There is a
Bunting P19-1 bushing at each joint which should be replaced if the tab free play at the trailing
edge exceeds .20 inches. If there is still excessive free play check the bolts for wear and check the
push-rod ends for wear. Install new push-rods if the holes are worn.
Keep the trim tab piano hinge and joints well lubricated with general purpose oil.
April 1, 1998 AT-401
TRIM TAB CONTROLS
A p/n 70059-6 trim bellcrank is attached to the fuselage frame with AN3-14A bolts, Bunting
P26-8 bushings, p.n 70065-1 spacer bushings, AN365-1032 nuts, and AN960-10 washers under
the nuts. The bellcrank should be removed during annual inspections and the bushings in-
spected for wear and lubricated.
The push-rods from the trim bellcrank to the idler arm on the stabilizer rear spar are p/n
70153-1 and are adjustable. The ends are AN486-4 Clevis ends with AN316-4 check nuts.
Attachments are with AN3-6 bolts, AN310-3 nuts, AN960-10 washers, MS24665-151 cotters.
The long push-rod going forward from the bellcrank is p/n 70498-1 and has a Fafnir
REB3N bearing attached to the bellcrank with a AN3-7A bolt, AN960-10 washer under the bolt
head, AN970-3 washer under the nut, AN365-1032 nut.
Fairleads are p/n 70122-1 with 40081-00 snap rings. The forward end going into the
cockpit connects to the top hole in the trim lever with the same hardare as connecting to the trim
bellcrank.
TRIM LEVER
The trim lever is p/n Q14-012 Quadrastat. It has a p/n 70063-1 stop installed with slotted
holes that allow movement up and down to adjust the tab travel. To position the lever in neutral,
install the control lock, position the lever in the green band, and adjust the forward push-rod
until the trim tabs are lined up with the elevator trailing edge. The stop can then be moved up or
o o o
down to provide a tab travel of 11 up, 10 down +/-1 1/2 .
If the trim lever creeps in flight, adjust the stops on each side of the trim lever so that a gap
of .020" is provided on each side of the lever.
FUSELAGE REMOVABLE SKINS
The side skins of the fuselage are attached to the fixed skins with Monadnock studs of
various lengths. The stud has a basic part number of 1142005 and the dash number designates
the length. The most common stud is 1142005-3 with the next most common a -4. All studs have
the dash numbers on the head. Stud lengths used are -3 through -15. Stud installation requires
a 1142925-2 grommet and a 1142902 snap ring. Installation pliers are needed for stud installa-
tion or removal. All Monadnock receptacles are p/n 1142715.
The side skins can be easily removed.
The side skins have a thin strip of neoprene to prevent chafing. This neoprene is 1/32" thick
by 1.0" wide, comes in 10 ft. rolls, has pressure sensitive adhesive backing and is p/n NS5565. A
punch is made of a piece of 3/4" OD tubing and one end sharpened on a grinder. At each
Monadnock location, the neoprene is marked and a 3/4" hole is punched.
The side skins are sheared to size, but the Monadnock holes will require drilling on installa-
tion. The old skin may be used for a pattern, or if it is damaged, ask the factory to provide a hole
finder. Use a Camloc hole saw .471 diameter to drill the side skins to match the receptacles.
These hole saws have a No. 30 pilot.
AT-401 April 1, 1998
FUSELAGE FIXED SKINS
The fixed skins are attached with 832 machine screws and nuts. Nuts in the lower skins are
stainless MS21044-C08 and in the upper fuselage areas are AN365-832. The 100o countersunk
machine screws are p/n 90012-5 for the 832 x 1/2 size, 90012-7 for the 832 x 5/8 size. The
Truss head machine screws are p/n 90013-3 for the 832 x 3/8 long, -5 for 1/2 long, -7 for 5/8
long and -8 for the 3/4 long.
The long lower skin is attached to the skin under the cockpit floor with rivets, but if it is
desired to remove one skin but not the other, the rivets can be drilled out and replaced with
90013-3 or -5 screws and stainless nuts. If the baggage floor is to be removed, it is necessary to
remove the long lower skin, in order to reach the nuts.
During annual inspections, all screws attaching the fixed skins should be checked to see if
they are tight.
The Camloc receptacles are attached to all lower skins and stringers before these parts are
attached to the aircraft. If a skin or stringer is replaced, be sure to install the side skin and attach
it to the part being replaced so that it will be properly positioned for the side skins to fit after
installation to the airframe.
FUSELAGE COCKPIT SKINS
The cockpit skins are riveted to the floor and to the support angles with MS20470AD4 rivets.
Attachments to the door frames are CR163-4-4 Cherry rivets. The cockpit skins may be removed
by drilling out the rivets where necessary and is not a difficult operation. The hopper should be
removed in order to remove the cockpit floor however.
FUSELAGE FRAME
The fuselage frame is of 4130N tubing and may be repaired in conventional ways in
accordance with AC 43.13-1A/2A. All fittings are also of 4130N material. The repaired area should
be sanded and burned paint should be removed to a point where it can be feather edged by
sanding. A good etching solution would be a mixture of 1/2 fluid oz. of concentrated phosphoric
acid in one gallon of isopropanol (isopropal alcohol). If relative humidity is extremely low, add 1/4
cup of distilled water to the solution. Factory paint is Air Ag yellow epoxy which does not require a
primer.
WINDSHIELD
Since the windshield is plexiglass, be careful to always use a clean rag and plastic
windshield cleaner to prevent scratches. If a crack is found near one of the attaching screws, stop-
drill with a no. 30 drill bit. The plexiglass windshield may be repaired or polished in accordance
with AC 43.13-1A.
If the windshield is replaced, file the sawed edges until a good fit is obtained. The bottom
edge of the windshield is on a 45o angle where it rests on top of the top fuselage skin. A felt strip is
used around the windshield edges. This felt is 1/16 x 2 with PSA backing and is p/n F-7. The
windshield is sealed around the upper and lower edge under the fiberglass flanges with zinc
July 13, 2011 AT-401
chromate putty. Then the entire perimeter of the windshield is sealed with PR-1422 A2 (See “Fuel
Tanks” for mixing instructions). Drill .166 holes through the windshield to match the aluminum
attachments. Then remove the windshield and enlarge the holes in the windshield to 3/16" to
prevent attach screws from over-stressing and cracking the windshield at any location.
The optional 3-Piece windshield is described below.
The safety glass center windshield can be cleaned with a soft rag and any good glass cleaner.
The windshield is sealed around the upper and lower edge under the metal flanges with
commercial grade putty. Then the entire perimeter of the windshield is sealed with PR1422-A2*
(see "Fuel Tanks" for mixing instructions). Drill .166 holes through the windshield to match the
aluminum attachments. Then remove the windshield and enlarge the holes in the windshield to
3/16" to prevent the attach screws from over-stressing and cracking the windshield at any
location.
*Alternate Sealer is PKMMC236A1/2
CANOPY DOORS
The canopy doors seal against the door frame with 3/8 x 1/2 p/n SC-41 neoprene sponge.
This material has a PSA backing but it is best to apply 3-M 8001 adhesive to the door frame in
order to get better adhesion. Be careful not to stretch the neoprene sponge during installation or it
will come loose.
The doors have a slight inward bow of 1/8" to allow for door deflection outward at high
speeds. The low pressure around the canopy causes the doors to bow outward. The door latch
should provide a snug door fit, and if it does not, and the weatherstrip is in good condition, bend
the latch arm that rides on the plated striker plate (p/n 10354-1 [L/H] or -2 [R/H]).
The door glass is p/n 10211-1 and is attached with 1/16 x 1 1/4 felt with PSA backing (p/n
F-7) around the perimeter. The machine screws around the glass are AN526-632-8 and the nuts
are AN365-632. Be careful not to over-tighten the screws or the glass will crack.
SEAT
The seat is attached to the seat rails with two C4-13R-303 Faspins. Do not raise the seat
above factory installed position but a tall person may want to lower the seat some. This is done by
lowering the seat to the desired position and drilling the set rails 15/64 and then reaming 1/4" for
the faspin installation. Make sure the lowered position clears the push-rod from the control stick.
The seat covers wear and need changing from time to time. The back cover is p/n 10541-1
and the bottom cover is p/n 10540-1. If the crotch strap is installed through the bottom seat
cover (used with AmSafe Airbag System), use bottom cover p/n 10540-3. Tools are available from
the factory to make seat cover replacement easier.
AT-401 April 1, 1998
HOPPER
The hopper is made of Derakane and is heat-cured for greater chemical resistance. However,
it is not good practice to leave chemicals in the hopper overnight if it is known that these
chemicals have an adverse affect on fiberglass hoppers.
The hopper brace and the hopper window is sealed on installation with silicone sealer which
is impervious to most chemicals. The hopper is attached to the fuselage frame with AN6C23A (4
ea.) and AN6C11A (6 ea.) bolts and MS21044-C6 nuts (10 ea.). To remove the hopper it is
necessary to remove these 10 bolts, the screws and nuts on the firewall and aft end, the vent tube
connection inside the fuselage, and the hopper gate box and plumbing and the windshield.
HOPPER GATE BOX
The gate box is Transland 25559 and a set of gate box gaskets is used on each side of the
fiberglass enclosure skin when the gate box is installed. Since these gaskets are usually ruined
when the gate box is removed, new ones should be used when the gate box is re-installed. The
gaskets used are 60725 (4 ea.), 60227 (4 ea.). silicone sealer is used only on the corners of the
gaskets. The hopper door seal is a Transland 60713.
HOPPER LID
The hopper lid is of fiberglass and is sealed with strips of medium density nitrile 3/8 x 1.0.
The lid will not leak if the nitrile is in good condition and the latch assembly is adjusted to
tension the lid solidly against the hopper flange. The nitrile is not expensive and should be
changed as often as required during the spray season.
GATE BOX CONTROLS
The long push-rod assembly attached to the over-center controls of the gate box is p/n
80172-2 and has a MS14104-4 bearing in the aft end and a Bunting P26-8 bronze bushing in
the forward end. The aft end connects to the p/n 80067-10 torque tube assembly which is
supported on the fuselage lower longerons with two Fafnir PB 1/2 bearings attached with AN6-7A
bolts.
The boot attached to the lower fuselage skin is p/n 80133-1 with a p/n 70140-1 boot ring
and 90013-4 screws, MS21044C08 nuts. A p/n 80063-1 push-rod connects the lower torque
tube to the hopper handle in the cockpit. This push-rod has an adjustable Fafnir RE4M6 bearing
on the lower end, and a Fafnir RE4H6 bearing in the other end. The hopper handle (p/n 80066-1)
is supported on each end with Fafnir PB 1/2 bearings. Bolts through the bearings are AN6-15A.
During annual inspections, be sure the lower gate torque tube arm is positioned so as not to
chafe the boot or boot ring in the lower fuselage skin.
The micro - calibrator is a Transland p/n 20875 supported on the aft end with a p/n
April 1, 1998 AT-401
80081-1 support assy and p/n 80104-1 shim, and supported on the forward end with a p/n
80080-1 support assy and a p/n 80106-1 clamp half.
SPRAY LEVER CONTROLS
The p/n 80073-1 spray lever assembly is attached to the aft cockpit wall and has a AG-235
Micro-control attached to limit the lever travel and hence the spray pressure. Keep the threaded
screw on the Micro-control greased and make sure the tab on the spray lever contacts only the
head of the AN4-5A bolt that is attached to the lower adjustment block.
The push-rod from the spray lever is p/n 80063-2 and has an adjustable Fafnir RE4M6
bearing in the lower end and a Fafnir RE4H6 bearing in the upper end.
The lower bellcrank is attached to the fuselage frame with a AN4-25A bolt. The bellcrank
has two Fafnir KP6A bearings with a p/n 70091-2 spacer bushing that allows the bolt to be fully
torqued. The bellcrank is p/n 80068-1 and has a p/n 80132-1 boot, 70140-1 boot ring attached
to the lower fuselage skin with 90013-4 screws, MS21044CO8 nuts.
The push-rod from the bellcrank to the valve is p/n 80065-1 which has a MS14104-4
bearing in each end.
SPRAY PUMP
The spray pump is an Agrinautics p/n 65219 attached to an Agrinautic p/n 60130 strut
assembly with AN5-13A bolts.
The standard fan is the Micronair p/n AT-4300 which is used for low to moderate spray
volume. For high volume applications, install a Weath-Aero adjustable pitch fan. Add 40 nozzles
to spray booms and change the tips on the spray nozzles to QU-4025. See page 10 of the
“Description Section” for more information on this subject.
SPRAY PLUMBING
The plumbing from the hopper gate box to the spray pump consists of a p/n 80385-1 tube
assembly with a p/n 22899 coupler attached to the gate box and a 80376-1 hose attached to the
80385-1 tube. The hose is clamped with 200-56S clamps which are entirely stainless.
The plumbing from the discharge side of the pump to the valve is p/n 81219-1 and has a
Transland 42320 coupler at each end. The hoses are p/n 80045-1 and are double clamped with
QS200M36S clamps. See drawing 80187 for complete details of the pump installation.
The tube attaching to the strainer is p/n 80047-2 and the boom “Tee” assembly is p/n
80392-10. Standard spray booms are p/n 80307-1 and will fit on either side. Micronair booms
are p/n 80333-1 (L/H) and 80333-2 (R/H).
The boom “Tee” assembly is supported on the L/H side with a p/n 80400-4 assembly and
on the R/H side with a p/n 80386-4 assembly. The straps on the support assemblies are p/n
80383-1 and are attached with AN4C6A bolts. D4-10T-303 Faspins are used to attach the
support assemblies to the fuselage frame. The installation is detailed on Drawing 80024 sheet 1.
AT-401 April 1, 1998
BOTTOM LOAD PLUMBING
The bottom load valve is a Transland 22395 which has shims that can be removed when
wear develops.
The aft half of the bottom loading plumbing is p/n 80328-1 and attaches to the bottom
loading valve with a 80045-1 hose and to the control valve with an 80046-1 hose and two
QS200M28S clamps.
The forward half of the bottom loading plumbing is a 80239-1 tube assembly.
The valve handle should be positioned straight back when the valve is closed. The valve is
attached to the L/H support assembly with four AN4-4A bolts. A transland 85053 adapter is
attached to the bottom load valve. The installation is shown in detail on drawing 80054.
SPRAY NOZZLES
Forty spray nozzles are standard. These are Spraying Systems Inc. p/n 4666 diaphram
check valve, 1/8 QJJ-V1 Quick Coupling body, and p/n QU-4010 spray tip. The aircraft is
equipped at the factory with 4010 tips which is for medium volume applications. For high volume
spraying QU4025 tips should be installed and if necessary an additional 40 nozzles should be
installed. Remove the p/n 3151 x 2 plugs and install p/n 3325 x 2 hex nipples for the extra
nozzles. Be sure to apply 3H permatex or equivilant to the threads of the hex nipples during
installation. For the best pattern the nozzles should be evenly spaced and the tips pointed back
o
and 10 down.
April 20, 2005 AT-401
STRIPPING AND RE-PAINTING PARTS
1. The paint stripper most effective on urethane paint is Turco #5351.
2. The stripper is either sprayed on with a barrel pump or applied on small parts with a large
paint brush. If sprayed on be sure to consider wing direction so that over-spray will not damage
surrounding vehicles or aircraft.
3. When applying stripper, wear protective clothing and safety goggles.
4. Apply a medium to heavy coat of stripper. Temperature should be 50˚ F or warmer for best
results. Allow stripper to react with paint and remove with special brush having stiff bristles that
will not soften with stripper.
5. Spray on a second light coat of stripper as necessary and remove remaining paint with brush.
6. Rinse thoroughly with (approx. 150˚ F) water under pressure. Be sure entire film of stripper is
removed.
7. Apply Acid Etch with Scotch Brite pads and scrub metal surfaces thoroughly. Rinse with cold
water.
8. Before the part is dry, apply generous amounts of Alodine with a clean white rag. The Alodine
should act within two or three minutes and when rinsed off with cold water should leave a very
light gold surface. Do not leave the Alodine too long or allow it to dry as a dark brown film will
result which is undesirable and should be removed and the part reprocessed.
9. When the part is completely dry, apply a coat of High Solids Epoxy Primer:
9.1 Mixing ratio is 4 parts Pigmented Component and 1 part Adduct. Always follow
manufacturer recommended mixing ratios.
9.2 Surfaces must be clean and free of grease, dirt, oil, rust, fingerprints, and other
contaminants to insure optimum adhesion and performance properties. Parts may be
cleaned using an alcohol soaked soft rag.
9.3 Apply primer using conventional spray equipment or HVLP spray equipment.
9.4 Ideal coating thickness is 0.5 mils dry.
9.5 Spray coatings with smooth, even strokes. Runs and sags are to be avoided.
9.6 Application temperature should be between 65˚-100˚ F.

AT-401 July 13, 2011
9.7 Epoxy primer should be allowed to flash before recoating with epoxy primer.
9.8 Air dry time to topcoat at 77˚-100˚ F Pis 2 hours minimum.
9.9 Full cure is achieved after approximately 18 hours of air dry.
9.10 If parts are allowed to dry in excess of 48 hours before topcoat application, they must be
sanded and reprimed.
10.Apply Urethane Topcoat on Primed Parts:
10.1 Mixing ratio is 2 parts base component, 1 part hardener, and 1 part activator. Always
follow manufacturer recommended mixing ratios.
10.2 Surfaces must be clean and free of grease, dirt, oil, rust, fingerprints, and other
contaminants to insure optimum adhesion and performance properties. Parts may be
cleaned using an alcohol soaked lint-free cotton cloth.
10.3 Parts should be wiped with a urethane grade tack cloth and then air blown to remove
any foreign materials.
10.4 Mix topcoat in accordance with manufacturer instructions. Do not deviate from
manufacturer recommended mixing ratios.
10.5 The paint booth temperature should be maintained between 65˚-100˚ F. Ideal booth
conditions are 75˚-85˚ F and a relative humidity of 45%.
10.6 Apply topcoat using conventional spray equipment or HVLP spray equipment.
10.7 Ideal coating thickness is 2.8-3.5 mils dry.
10.8 Spray coatings with smooth, even strokes. Runs and sags are to be avoided.
10.9 Cure time is 4.5 hours to tape at 120˚F, or 6-8 hours to tape at 77˚ F.
10.10 Clean equipment using Ketone (MEK) solvent. Do not allow material to cure inside
spray equipment.
Priming Aluminum Parts with Chromated Alkyd Primer
Parts that do not receive a finish coat of paint (such as wing ribs) are primed with Chromated
Alkyd Primer conforming to spec TT-P-1757B, Type I, Class C. Surfaces must be clean and free of
grease, dirt, oil, rust, fingerprints, and other contaminants to insure optimum adhesion and
performance properties. Parts may be cleaned using an alcohol soaked soft rag. Follow the Acid
Etch and Alodine process described in the "Stripping and Re-painting Aluminum Parts" section
Maintenance Page 35A Air Tractor, Inc.
July 13, 2011 AT-401
above. Apply a light coat of Chromated Alkyd Primer thinned with Toluene R2K1 or Xylene R2K4 if
necessary to achieve proper viscosity. Spray coatings with smooth, even strokes. Runs and sags
are to be avoided. The primer application should be a thin film.
Stripping and Repainting Steel Parts
Steel parts are to be cleaned of all oils and then sand-blasted. If sand-blasting is not available,
clean the part thoroughly, wipe dry, sand, and etch with a mixture of 1.0 gal. Isopropyl Alcohol
and 1/2 fluid oz. of concentrated Phosphoric acid. If applying finish coat over bare metal, prime
first with High Solids Epoxy Primer (see instructions above) and paint using Urethane Topcoat
process (see instructions above).
Materials Used for Stripping, Painting, and Preservation
Urethane Topcoat Materials
Part No. (Sherwin Williams) Description Amount used per A/C
CM0840405 Yellow finish coat 10 gal.
Z05265 Black finish coat 1 / 2 gal.
Z05266 Blue finish coat 1 / 2 gal.
CM0840081 Hardener 5 gal.
CM0840A05 Activator (60-70° F) 5 gal.

CM0110093 (slow) or CM0110944 Urethane Reducer 3 gal.
CM0483928 Primer-Pigmented Component 4 gal.
CM0120828 Standard Epoxy Adduct 1 gal.
CM0110944 Primer Reducer 2 gal.
Chromated Alkyd Primer Materials
PartNo. Description Amountused per A/C
TT-P-1757B Yellowzinc chromate primer 5 gal.
T1-548C Toluene (R2K1) 5 gal.

Air Tractor, Inc. Maintenance Page 35B
AT-401 April 20, 2005
Surface Preparation Materials
Part No Description Amount used per A/C
Turco #53351 Stripper 10 gal.
Acid Etch 3 gal.
Alodine 2 lbs.
Isopropyl Akcohol 2 gal.
Phosoporic Acid 1 fluid oz.
Internal Oiling Steel Parts
Part No. Description Amoont used per A/C
Linseed Oil 1 gal.

AT-401 April 1, 1998
TORQUE VALUES FOR SHOP USE
Torque Value (inch-pounds)
Size of Nut or Bolt Tension Type Nuts Shear Type Nuts
1032 60-70 20-25

1/4-28 100-120 30-40
5/16-24 200-240 60-85
3/8-24 300-330 95-110
7/16-20 550-600 270-300
1/2-20 800-900 290-410
9/16-18 1,100-1,300 480-600
5/8-18 1,700-1,900 660-780
3/4-16 2,800-3,000 1,300-1,500
7/8-14 3,500-4,000 1,500-1,800
1-14 6,000-6,400 2,200-3,300
NOTE:
1. The chart applies to all standard or high strength aircrat alloy steel bolts.
2. The lower value is used when the bolt is held stationary and torque applied to the nut. For
the revese of ths procedure use the upper value.
3. Tension type nuts are AN365, AN363, AN310.
4. Shear type nuts are AN364, AN320.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
No Power:
If the battery switch is on, but there is no power, first be sure that the battery is charged
and all circuit breakers have been checked. Check the cables on the battery for looseness and the
battery ground connection. If there is still no power, check the battery switch and the switch
circuit. If all is in order, the only step left is to replace the master relay which is mounted on the
battery platform. This is a Cutler Hammer p/n 6041H202A which has been sealed against
chemical entry and is Air Tractor p/n 60045-2. Alternate relay is the Kissling p/n 29.314.12.903
which is sealed.
Starter will not engage:
If there is power with the battery switch on but the starter will not engage, check the starter
switch and circuit. Check the starter relay on the firewall. This is the same as the master relay
except for different sealing which makes it an Air Tractor p/n 60045-1 or the Kissling relay above.
If the relay works and the other checks are OK, then there is something wrong with the starter,
providing the ground wire to the oil tank bushing is secure.
AT-401 April 1,1998
No rise in voltage showing on voltmeter equipped aircraft:
Since later aircraft have a voltmeter installed instead of an ammeter, compare the voltage
shown on the voltmeter with the voltage measured at the battery.
Alternator overcharging:
If the alternator is charging too many volts on voltmeter, check the voltage with engine
running at 2000 RPM. If voltage is more than 28.5 volts re-set voltage in alternator contols with
adjustment screw.
Skytronic Alternators:
Each Air Tractor equipped with Skytronic alternator has a set of instructions from Skytron-
ics included in the delivery kit. If a problem develops, consult these instructions.
LIGHTING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
Electronic Instrument Light Dimmer
Description
The instrument lights are dimmed by two separate dimmer controls. One of these is for the upper
panel instrument lights and the other is for the lower panel lights. The instrument light switch
feeds power to the dimmer circuits and the flap light through the five Amp instrument-light
circuit breaker. The pilot has control of the instrument light intensity through the knob on the
variable resistor, P/N RV4NAYSD-102A, mounted in the upper panel. There is a separate
control for each of the upper panel and the lower panel lights. The controls for the upper and
lower panels are identical except for wire numbers. The variable resistor controls the bias on the
base pin of the P/N 2N3055 power transistor. Power is fed to the collector of the transistor while
the emitter of the transistor outputs current to the lighting bus. The schematic of the dimmer
circuit is shown on drawing 60059 page 1, and the assembly details are shown on drawing
60647.
Trouble Shooting
The following instructions are for the upper panel dimmer circuit. Trouble shooting the lower
panel is identical except that on later aircraft the wires are numbered differently from the upper
panel control to the lower panel control. Use the schematic, drawing 60059 pg 1, and the
assembly drawing, 60647, to aid in trouble shooting.
If one of the electronic dimmers should fail to operate, first check the five-Amp-instrument-light
circuit breaker. If the flap light burns when the master switch and the instrument light switches
are activated, the circuit breaker and switch are good. Open the lower panel and visually inspect
April 1, 1998 AT- 401
the wiring harness for broken wires and corroded or bad connections.
To check for a short in the instrument light fixtures, make sure the master switch is OFF and
disconnect the 60011-151 transistor output wire from the lighting bus. Fabricate a test lead
with a five-Amp circuit breaker, two alligator clips, and about 18 inches of 20-gauge wire. Make
sure that the instrument lights work by connecting the test lead, with the circuit breaker in line,
between the power bus and the lighting bus. Turn ON the master switch. If the lights illuminate,
the fixtures and wiring are fine. If the circuit breaker in the test lead pops, there is a short in the
instrument light fixtures or wiring. If there is a short, isolate it and make the necessary repairs.
Make sure all of the lights and wiring of the system are working before proceeding, since shorts
are the most common cause of transistor failure.
Once it is known that the instrument lights and wiring are good, and the dimmer still will not
control them, use a Volt meter to make sure that the instrument-light switch is feeding bus
voltage to the variable resistor and the “C” terminal of the transistor. To access the terminals of
the transistor, remove the two screws that hold the heat sink to the lower panel. The variable-
resistor terminal with the 60011-437 wire is the power wire from the instrument light switch. If
voltage is not present at either one or both of these terminals, isolate the trouble and make the
necessary repairs to the wiring. Use the Volt meter to check the voltage at the “B” terminal of the
transistor. This voltage should vary from 0 to bus level when the control knob is turned. If the
voltage is not proper at the “B” terminal, remove the transistor and recheck the voltage at the “B”
terminal of the transistor socket. To remove the transistor from the socket, remove the two
screws holding it to the heat sink. Pull the transistor out of the socket. If the voltage is still not
proper at the “B” terminal, the variable resistor (P/N RV4NAYSD-102A) is bad or has a bad
ground. If the voltages to the”B” and “C” terminals of the transistor are good and the dimmer
does not work, the transistor is bad. To install a new transistor (P/N 2N3055), coat the bottom of
the transistor with a thin coat of heat-sink compound. Insert the mica insulator over the two
transistor leads and stick it to the heat-sink compound. Coat the bottom of the mica insulator
with a thin coat of heat sink compound. White heat-sink compound can be obtained at most
Radio Shack or electronic supply stores. Most Radio Shack stores also stock the 2N3055
transistor. Plug the transistor through the heat sink and into the socket. Install the screws that
were removed. Make sure that the shoulders of the transistor-socket-screw holes seat properly in
the heat-sink holes. The case of the transistor is one of the electrical connections of the
transistor, and must not be grounded to the heat sink or the aircraft. If the case is shorted to
ground, with the power on, the transistor will be ruined. Once the wires have been reconnected
and the unit is working properly, mount the heat sink to the lower panel and secure any loose
wires as necessary. Double check the operation of the unit before fastening the lower panel and
returning the aircraft to service.
CHECKING THE BATTERIES
The batteries are checked by determining the level of the electrolyte in each cell. First, the
battery caps are removed. Then each cell is inspected individually. Using a light if necessary, the
electrolyte level should be observed at or slightly above the plastic split-ring that is visible
AT-401 April 1, 1998
through the filling hole.

If the electrolyte fluid level is low and adding fluid is necessary, the electrolyte level can be
raised by adding distilled water. The battery should not be overfilled. The electrolyte level should
not be more than one-quarter inch above the split ring.
When a battery seems weak or will not hold a charge after charging, replacing the battery
may be necessary. The charge capacity of individual cells may be determined by checking the
specific-gravity of the electrolyte in those cells.
The specific-gravity check can be done with the use of a hydrometer constructed of acid-
resistant materials. The specific-gravity should range from 1.1 for a fully-discharged cell to 1.3
for a fully-charged cell. A variance of specific gravity more than 0.1 from other cells in the battery
is an indication of a weak cell and the battery should be replaced.
Commercial battery hydrometers are normally used for specific-gravity checks. These hy-
drometers may display specific-gravity readings or might have red and green bands. Depending
on the state of charge, the specific-gravity readings should not be interpreted as absolute but as
comparative readings with other cells in the battery. A single cell whose specific-gravity reading
is at wide variances with other cells in the battery suggests a dead cell requiring replacement of
the battery.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
Voltmeter
The wiring schematic for the Voltmeter is shown in Drawing 60001. The Voltmeter shows the
voltage on the airplane’s electrical bus. Voltmeter readings may be used to determine the condition
of the battery and Starter/Generator.
When the Master Switch is “ON”, with the Starter/Generator not charging, with no load on the
system, the fully-charged battery voltage should be between 23 and 24 volts. When the Starter/
Generator is charging, the voltage on the airplane bus should be approximately 28 volts.
Fuel Gauging
The wiring schematic for the fuel gauging system is shown in Drawing 60198. The fuel quantity
is shown on the panel-mounted fuel gauge. Each of the wing fuel cells is gauged separately. The fuel
quantity in each of the fuel tanks is displayed on the panel fuel gauges.
The panel-mounted fuel gauge is a micro-ammeter with a full-scale range of 100 micro-amps.
A circuit board is attached to the binding posts of the instrument. Circuitry on this board provides
a 4.3 -volt power supply for the fuel-gauging system. This board also has a trimmer-potentiometer.
This trimmer is used to calibrate the full-scale readings on the micro-ammeter.
The sender is grounded through its mounting bolts.
Wing Flaps
The wiring schematic for the wing flaps is shown in Drawing 60198. Power to drive the flaps up
April 1, 1998 AT-401
and down is provided by the cockpit flap switch. The wiring from the flap switch is routed through the
micro-switches that serve as limit switches for the full "ON" and full "DOWN" positions.
Stall-Warning Horn
The wiring schematic for the stall-warning horn is shown in Drawing 60198. The horn is
connected in series with the lift-detector switch that is located near the leading edge of at mid-span
of the right-hand wing.
The lift-detector switch is controlled by a tab that projects forward into the prevailing airstream.
When at rest, the weight of the tab holds it down, opening the switch. When the airflow around the
lift detector shifts to a forward direction, the tab is lifted, closing the switch and causing the horn to
sound.
Night Working Lights
The wiring schematic for the night working lights is shown in Drawing 60276. The Night Working
Lights combine the functions of the 600-watt landing lights and the 450-watt turn lights for optimum
visibility while operating at night.
The extension of the landing lights is individually controlled by the extend-and-retract switches
located on the lower switch panel. These switches allow the landing lights to be stopped at any point
in their extension or retraction to provide the best placement of lighting to suit the pilot. The landing
lights can be turned “ON” or “OFF” by use of the “MAIN” switch to the right of the extend-and-retract
switches on the lower panel.
The turn-light switch is a push-on, push-off button switch located at the upper left of the control
stick. When the landing-light main switch is “ON” and the turn-light switch is turned on, the turn-
light selector switch atop the control stick is enabled. This switch has “LEFT”, “RIGHT”, and center
“OFF” positions. When the turn-light selector switch is moved out of its center position, left or right,
the wing-tip-mounted turn light is turned “ON” on the selected side while the landing lights are
simultaneously turned “OFF”. Return of the turn-light switch to its center position restores the
landing light to “ON” and the selected turn light to “OFF”.
All of the lamp filament circuits are switched by relays. Since the main landing lights are not
individually selected “ON”, a single relay switches both lamps simultaneously. This relay is activated
“ON” when the “MAIN” switch is “ON” and both of the double-pole, double-throw turn relays are in
their normally-closed positions. When the working light switch is “ON” and the turn-light selector
switch is moved from its center position, the coil of the selected turn relay is energized. This causes
the armature of the relay to move, turning the light ‘ON” and simultaneously breaking the circuit to
the relay coil that powers the main landing lights.
When the working-light switch is “OFF”, movement of the turn-light selector switch has no effect.
Windshield Washer
The wiring schematic for the windshield washer is shown in Drawing 60118. When the switch
is closed, the pump’s motor starts and the solenoid valve is opened. The flow of windshield-washing
fluid will continue until the switch is released. The purpose of the solenoid is to provide a sharp cutoff
of fluid when the switch is released. This prevents the dribbling of fluid onto the windshield.
Air Tractor, Inc Maintenance Page 41
April 20, 2005 AT-401
Windshield Wiper
The wiring schematic for the optional windshield wiper is shown in Drawing 60737. The wiper
switch has three positions, “HIGH”, “LOW”, and “PARK”. When the switch is in the “PARK” position,
the wiper blades are parked and the power to the wiper motor is off.
Cockpit Lighting
The wiring schematic for the cockpit lights is shown in Drawing 60059 p1. The intensity level
of the cockpit lights, except for the dome and map lights, is controlled by the solid-state dimming
circuit.
When the panel light switch is turned “ON”, power is available to the dimming circuit. The panel-
light intensity is controlled by the panel-light rheostat on the instrument panel.
Flap Light
The wiring schematic for the flap light is shown in Drawing 60059. The flap light is located in
a housing on the upper side of the left-hand wing just forward of the wing flap, near the center of the
span of the flap. The light illuminates marks on the leading edge of the flap, providing an indication
of the amount of deflection of the flap. The flap light is controlled by the instrument-light switch, but
it is not dimmed by the panel-light dimming circuitry.
Position and Strobe Lighting
The wiring schematic for the position lights and the strobe lights is shown in Drawing 60059.
These lights are controlled by the navigation-light switch on the lower instrument panel. When the
switch is placed in the “DOWN” position, power is sent to the red light on the left-hand wing tip, the
green light on the right-hand wing tip, and the white light on the rudder. When the switch is placed
in the “UP” position, power is sent to the three position lights plus the strobe lights located on each
wing tip.
AIRSPEED SYSTEM
Should irregular airspeed readings occur, there is the possibility that water has entered
the static or pitot lines. To drain the lines, there are three locations where the lines may be
broken at the fittings for draining.
1. At each static port on the upper fuselage deck the plugs on the lower side of the "Tee" may
be removed
2. The line from the static ports that goes forward to the cockpit may be broken under the
R/H lower aft corner of the door frame.
3. The pitot line may be broken in the lowest spot where it passes across the fuselage below
the main spar of the wing.
LIFE-LIMITED ITEMS
FAA Requirements:
The safe-life of Air Tractor Model AT 401 and AT-401B wing carry-through structure, and
attaching structure is 9,800 hours time in service for serial numbers -1183 and subsequent. For
earlier serial numbers, refer to FAA Airworthiness Directive 2006-08-08 R1.
If the AmSafe Airbag System is installed, the following are time-limited parts:
The EMA (Electronics Module Assembly) is to be removed and returned to AmSafe

Aviation for refurbishment after:
• a period of seven (7) years calculated from the month of manufacture regard
less of storage or service time or combination of both.
• The EMA can only be renewed by AmSafe Aviation.
In addition, the EMA is to be removed for disposal after:
• a maximum storage period of fourteen (14) years calculated from the month of
manufacture, or;
• upon expiration of the service life defined as the total sum of storage life and
installation life, which must not exceed fourteen (14) years calculated from the
month of manufacture.
The Inflator Assembly is to be removed and returned to AmSafe Aviation for disposal
after:
• a maximum storage period of ten (10) years calculated from the month of
manufacture as indicated in the expiration date stamped on the gas cylinder,
or;
• upon expiration of the service life defined as the total sum of storage life and
installation life, which must not exceed ten (10) years calculated from the
month of manufacture as indicated in the expiration date stamped on the gas
cylinder.
Upon expiration of the service life (total life), the Inflator Assembly cannot be renewed.
Air Tractor Recommendations:
Air Tractor Service Letters are used to communicate field experience that may be helpful to
the owner of the airplane. Some of these service letters recommend the retirement of certain parts
after they have been in operation for a given period of time.
These Air Tractor Service Letters are listed below with an abbreviated explanation of the
action recommended:
Service Letter No. Recommended Action
104 Recommends replacement of main landing-gear springs at between 1500

hours and 4000 hours, depending on type of service. See Service Letter
for details.
117 Recommends replacement of landing-gear attaching bolts between 300

hours and 2000 hours, depending on type of service. See Service Letter
July 13, 2011 AT-401
119 Recommends replacement of tail landing-gear springs at between 1000

hours and 2000 hours, depending on types of service. See Service Letter
for details.
TIE-DOWN INSTRUCTIONS
To help protect against damage from strong or gusty winds when parked, your Air Tractor
airplane should be tied down to ground tie-down facilities using lines made of nylon rope, vinyl-
covered chain or cable, or nylon webbing. The lines should have a tensile strength of more than
3,000 lbs.
The airplane should be parked with the nose pointed into the anticipated wind, if possible.
The parking brake should be set and the main landing gear tires should be chocked front and
rear. (CAUTION: Do not set the parking brake when the brakes are overheated or during
cold weather when accumulated moisture may freeze the brakes. The main wheels should
always be chocked when parked, but this is especially important if the parking brake is not
set.) Install the control stick lock and rudder lock and set all trim tabs to neutral position. If
available, install a pitot tube cover, engine inlet cover, engine exhaust covers (when cool), and
install the propeller tether.
Secure the wings to the ground anchors using the wing tie-down rings located beneath the
front spars of each wing, and secure to the ground anchors. These lines should be oriented as
close to vertical as possible (within 30 degrees of vertical). The tail wheel is secured by wrapping
and tying the tie-down line around the tailwheel spring. This line should be tied to a ground
anchor located slightly aft of the tail wheel. Use care to avoid damaging the tail wheel lock
mechanism.
If winds in excess of 20 mph from the rear of the aircraft are expected or possible, suitable
blocks should be used to lock the control surfaces (ailerons, elevators, and rudder) in place and
relieve strain on the control systems. Very large damaging dynamic loads are possible with a
gusty reverse flow of air over the control surfaces. Should this happen without blocks in place, be
sure to check all push-rods and rod-ends in the aileron control system for damage before flight.
TOWING INSTRUCTIONS AND LIMITATIONS
The airplane must be towed with the use of an appropriate tow bar attached to the main
landing gear. The proper towing points are the sheet metal rings on the inner side of the landing
gear strut in the same plane as the axle. Towing with attachment to the tail-wheel spring is not
recommended. The tail-wheel lock should always be disengaged while the airplane is being towed.
A towing bar can be made from two 12-foot-long 4130 steel tubes and a three quarter-inch
steel bar. The tube's outside diameter should not be less than two inches and the wall thickness
should be at or above .065 inch.
The tubes are pinned together at one end with a loose 1/2 inch bolt and an attachment to
join to the towing lug or ball on a vehicle. The three-quarter-inch steel bar is bent at 90 degrees
with four inches of bar extending in one direction and three inches in the other direction from the
bend. These bent bars are welded to the free ends of the tubes. The three-inch leg is pointed
downward and the other is fillet-welded to the bottom of the tube. These downward-projecting
pintles fit loosely into the towing wings in the airplane's landing gear. A hole may be drilled
through the three-inch leg at a quarter-inch from its end for a spring pin, if desired.
July 13, 2011 AT-401
The airplane can be pulled or pushed using the tow bar. If the airplane is towed into tight
quarters, a wing-walker should be engaged to avoid damage to wing tips and tail members where
visibility is limited.
The airplane should not be towed faster than 5 miles per hour on a smooth surface
without chug-holes or sharp bumps. Landing gear damage, particularly tail-wheel damage, can
result from dropping the gear into holes at high speeds.
AMSAFE AIRBAG SYSTEM
The AmSafe Airbag system consists of a lap belt and crotch strap attached to the seat
frame, a shoulder harness with integrated airbags, two compressed gas inflators, and an
electronics module and cabling. All maintenance on the system must be performed by an AmSafe
Authorized Service Center per AmSafe Aviation Document Number E510500.
The maintenance requirements of the system include an annual inspection and functional
test of the system. The electronics module must be returned to AmSafe for refurbishment after a
period of seven years from month of manufacture and must be taken out of service after a period
of 14 years from month of manufacture. The inflators must be removed and replaced after a
period of 10 years from the month of manufacture.
Any time any component of the AmSafe Airbag system is disconnected or removed from the
aircraft, the system requires a functional test performed by an AmSafe Authorized Service Center.
CHECKING THE BATTERIES
The batteries are checked by determining the level of the electrolyte in each cell. First, all
of the battery caps are removed. Then each cell is inspected individually. Using a light if
necessary, the electrolyte level should be at or slightly above the plastic split-ring that is visible
through the filling hole.
If the electrolyte fluid level is low and adding fluid is necessary, the electrolyte level can be
raised by adding distilled water. The battery should not be overfilled. The electrolyte level should
not be more than one-quarter inch above the split ring.
When a battery seems weak or will not hold a charge after charging, replacing that battery
may be necessary. The charge capacity of individual cells may be determined by checking the
specific gravity of the electrolyte in those cells.
The specific gravity check can be done with the use of a hydrometer constructed of acid-
resistant materials. The specific gravity should range from 1.1 for a fully-discharged cell to 1.3 for
a fully charged cell. A variance of specific gravity more than 0.1 from other cells in the battery is
an indication of a weak cell and the battery should be replaced.
Commercial battery hydrometers are normally used for specific gravity checks. These
hydrometers may display specific gravity readings or might have red and green bands. Depending
on the state of charge, the specific gravity readings should not be interpreted as absolute but as
comparative readings with other cells in the battery. A single cell whose specific gravity reading is
at wide variances with other cells in the battery suggests a dead cell requiring replacement of the
battery.
July 13, 2011 AT-401
LEVELING
The airplane is leveled to “level flight attitude” by jacking the tailwheel. See LIFTING AND
JACKING section of this manual. The airplane is in level flight attitude when the top (right next to
the side of the fuselage) of the L/H landing gear leg is level. Use an accurate bubble level, placed
at this location to determine when the aircraft is level. The airplane should be in this level
position for aircraft weighing and other maintenance/installation items that require the aircraft to
be in level flight attitude. Care should always be taken when the aircraft is lifted to prevent
damage to the aircraft or harm to people around it.
WEIGHT AND BALANCE
The proper maintenance of weight and balance records is important to ensure that the
airplane is operated within the weight and center of gravity limits that are established in the Flight
Manual. The airplane should be weighed in the attitude described in the LEVELING section of
this manual.

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Air Tractor, Inc.

LIFTING AND JACKING

CAUTION: Care should always be taken when the aircraft

MAIN WHEEL ALIGNMENT

BRAKE MASTER CYLINDERS

TAIL WHEEL FORK

TAIL WHEEL FORK HOUSING

TAIL WHEEL LOCK PIN AND HOUSING

MAIN AND TAIL GEAR ATTACH BOLTS

Bolt Location Bolt Size Bolt Life Bolt Life Wrench On ( )

Tail Spring AN6-17A 600 hours 300 hours Snug only

TAIL GEAR SPRING

MAIN GEAR SPRING

WING ATTACHMENT TO FUSELAGE

WING CENTER SPLICE CONNECTION

FUEL TANK SENDERS

FUEL TANK RECEIVER

FUEL SYSTEM DRAINS

FUEL SYSTEM SCREENS AND FILTERS

FUEL WOBBLE PUMP

AILERON AND FLAP RIGGING

1. Set the control lock on the stick. Flaps full up.

AILERON AND FLAP BELLCRANKS AND SUPPORTS

FLAP ACTUATOR TROUBLE SHOOTING

Flap Actuator Removal Instructions:

Flap Actuator Installation Instructions:

1. Re-install actuator in aircraft in reverse order as removal.

FLAP MOTOR TROUBLE SHOOTING

If the micro-switches appear OK the flap motor may be checked as follows:

ELEVATOR TRIM TABS

TRIM TAB CONTROLS

FUSELAGE REMOVABLE SKINS

FUSELAGE FIXED SKINS

FUSELAGE COCKPIT SKINS

The optional 3-Piece windshield is described below.

HOPPER GATE BOX

GATE BOX CONTROLS

SPRAY LEVER CONTROLS

BOTTOM LOAD PLUMBING

STRIPPING AND RE-PAINTING PARTS

1. The paint stripper most effective on urethane paint is Turco #5351.

3. When applying stripper, wear protective clothing and safety goggles.

9.4 Ideal coating thickness is 0.5 mils dry.

9.6 Application temperature should be between 65˚-100˚ F.

9.8 Air dry time to topcoat at 77˚-100˚ F Pis 2 hours minimum.

9.9 Full cure is achieved after approximately 18 hours of air dry.

10.Apply Urethane Topcoat on Primed Parts:

10.7 Ideal coating thickness is 2.8-3.5 mils dry.

Priming Aluminum Parts with Chromated Alkyd Primer

Stripping and Repainting Steel Parts

Materials Used for Stripping, Painting, and Preservation

Urethane Topcoat Materials

Part No. (Sherwin Williams) Description Amount used per A/C

CM0840405 Yellow finish coat 10 gal.

Z05265 Black finish coat 1 / 2 gal.

Z05266 Blue finish coat 1 / 2 gal.

CM0840081 Hardener 5 gal.

CM0840A05 Activator (60-70° F) 5 gal.

CM0483928 Primer-Pigmented Component 4 gal.

CM0120828 Standard Epoxy Adduct 1 gal.

CM0110944 Primer Reducer 2 gal.

Chromated Alkyd Primer Materials

PartNo. Description Amountused per A/C