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Screwing in metal

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To fasten another metal object, you can use different types of screws, e.g. hex head
screws with full or partial thread, Allen screws, lock screws, metal screws and plate
screws. The dominant system for specifying dimensions in Europe is the metric system,
but the inches (inches, symbol ") still appears on items made in the United States or of
older date.

Tip

In addition to common fasteners made of steel such as screws and nuts, there are
alternatives made of polyamide (Nylon®) and other types of plastic. These plastic
screws are available in standard dimensions, but in addition to standard heads they
are also available with extra ones wide, flat head or countersunk head. They are used
for a lot of different purposes such as. color fans and electronics.

Screws

screws for use in metal are available with many different head shapes,
for example:
1. hexagon screw
2. round head screw
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3. countersunk screw
4. cylinder
5. countersunk hex screw
6. cylindrical hex screw 7.
countersunk star screw 8.
thumb screw

Nuts

Nuts are used for various purposes and come in many different types and dimensions.
The most common types are:
1. hex nut
2. ring nut
3. lock nut
4. cap nut
5. crown nut
6. wing nut

Washers
A washer is placed under a screw or nut to distribute the pressure over a larger area
so that the workpiece is not damaged when the screw connection is tightened or
loosened. A washer can also be used to keep the screw connection free from
moisture. 1. ordinary washer
2. split washer
3. star washer Gizlilik - Şartlar
4. securing ring (inside)
5. securing ring (outside)
6. O-ring

Choosing the correct spanner The

dimensions of screws and nuts are now almost always specified in the metric system,
f .eg "cylinder screw M8". The single dimension nut or screw has a corresponding
head size and thus spanner size. Usually, the unit is understood to be millimeters
(mm). Cylinder screws and associated wrench sizes appear in the table below:

Screw Wrench
M3 5.5
M4 7
M5 8
M6 10
M7 11
M8 13
M10 17
M12 19
M14 22
M16 24
M18 27
M20 30
M22 32
M24 36
M27 41
M30 46
M33 50
M36 55

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Spanner Gizlilik Şartlar Some spanners

have forks at both ends and then as usually two different sizes, so that a handful of
keys can be used for the most common nut and screw dimensions, typically 6+7 mm,
8+9 mm, 10+11 mm, 12+13 mm, 14+15 mm, 16+17 mm and 18+19 mm.

Ring spanner

The head of a ring spanner has 12 internal teeth and fits perfectly around the head of a
nut or screw. This type of wrench allows a large torque to be applied, provided the
dimension is chosen correctly (beware of mixed metric and American dimensions!).
Many spanner sets consist of so-called ring spanners, which have a ring at one end
and a fork at the other end – both with the same dimensions.

Ratchet wrench
A ratchet wrench with associated ring bits in various dimensions is a useful universal
tool. The locking direction of the ratchet wrench is set on a pawl, so that it can be used
to both tighten and loosen screw connections.
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Spanner

A spanner is often designed as a tube that ends in a hollow hexagon corresponding to


a certain dimension nut or screw. It can be made integral with a cross bar, which is
used as a lever to tighten or loosen the screw connection, e.g. in the wheel change kit
that normally belongs to the car's spare or emergency wheel. This type of wrench is
especially useful for screws and nuts that are difficult to access with a spanner or ring
wrench. Ratchet wrenches usually have corresponding top bits. The end of the pipe is
often made with two holes through which a crossbar is pushed, so that you have a
certain leverage to work with.

Spanner (Wrench)

On this type of spanner, the distance between the jaws can be adjusted on a screw, so
that it is possible to work with many different dimensions. On the other hand, the head is
larger than on a fork or ring wrench Note: If the jaws of the wrench are not tightened
completely around the nut or screw head, you risk damaging it.

Allen

key Gizlilik - Şartlar

An Allen key is usually bent with one or two right angles like a small hand crank. The
hexagonal shape usually goes all the way through the key again. Allen keys are also
available arranged in a kind of pocket knife, and Allen bits are available for most
ratchet wrenches. Allen keys are naturally used to tighten and loosen Allen screws.
The standard dimensions 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 5½, 6, 8 and 10 mm.

Hexagon head screws (short thread)

Hexagon screws with metric threads are available in sizes from M4 to M24 and lengths
from 20 to 200 mm. Hexagon screws are used to hold components together. They are
tightened with an open-end or ring spanner. As a rule, it is necessary to use two
spanners: one to hold the nut, while the other is used to tighten the screw - or vice
versa. Nuts fit screws with the same dimensions.

Hexagon screws (full thread)


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Hexagon screws with metric threads are available in dimensions from M4 to M16 and
lengths from 6 to 200 mm. These are the same basic type of hex screws as above (with
a short thread), but here they are threaded the entire length of the shank – right up to
the bottom of the hex head, so the screw has no neck.

Allen screws Allen

screws with metric threads are available in dimensions from M3 to M12 and lengths
from 6 to 120 mm. These screws have a head with an internal hexagonal notch and are
tightened or loosened with an Allen key. The big advantage of the allen screw ("internal
hexagon screw") is that it can be firmly screwed into place with the associated allen
key. They can also be used in hard-to-reach places.

Locking

screws with metric threads are available in dimensions from M5 to M12 and lengths
from 16 to 180 mm. Immediately below the flat, notchless head sits a square neck. The
cylinder screw is usually hammered in so that the square neck goes into place in the
workpiece. The cylinder screw is held in place in this way so that it does not turn when
the nut is tightened. The flat, round head gives the screw an inviting appearance, but at
the same time it is a good burglary protection for e.g. doors or garage doors, as the
screw is impossible to loosen from the outside.

Metal
screws Gizlilik - Şartlar

Metal screws with a cylindrical head and metric screw thread are available in
dimensions from M2 to M4 in lengths from 4 to 30 mm.

Plate screws / self-tapping screws

Plate screws or self-tapping screws with a cylindrical head, PH or PZ slot and


self-tapping thread are available in dimensions from 2.2 to 3.5 mm and lengths from
6.5 to 38 mm.
The shaft of the screw is equipped with a sharp point and a coarse thread right up to
the head of the screw. This means that the screw easily bites into the workpiece and
forms a thread itself when it is tightened. A channel with a smaller diameter than the
screw's shaft must always be pre-drilled.

drilling screws
An easy way to join two sheets of metal (sheet metal) is by means of self-drilling
screws. These screws do not require pre-drilling.
Self-drilling screws are suitable for fixing a thin plate to a thicker one or be- Gizlilik - Şartlar
punch on metal piles. Combined with a locking plate, they form a solid joint between the
components. The joining takes place much faster than with blind rivets or screws and
nuts, i.a. because it is not necessary to pre-drill. These screws are available in lengths
from 6 to 27 mm.

Cutting Internal Threads I

If you need an internal thread in a piece of metal to form a screw connection, use a
tap. Before using the tap, the hole must be pre-drilled with a drill whose diameter is
somewhere between the core diameter of the tap and its external thread diameter.
The diameter of the drilling channel is found with the following rule of thumb: The
diameter of the drilling channel must be 80% of the dimension specification of the
threaded stud. Example: To cut an M6 thread, use a drill of 6 • 0.80 = 4.8 mm, or
rounded 5 mm (see table).

Cutting internal threads II


For threading in a pre-drilled channel, a set consisting of three threaded studs is
normally used. You perform the threading in three rounds by using increasingly larger
threaded pins and a club (handle to turn with).
• First cut: The thread is pre-cut with a cone-shaped tap • Second cut:
The thread is deepened with a medium-sized tap • Third cut: the thread
is cut to the final depth
If you cut the thread by hand, be sure to keep the tap at a right angle to the workpiece. It
is very important to remove metal shavings and burrs along the way: for every two Gizlilik -
Şartlar

revolutions in the cutting direction, the threaded pin is turned half a revolution
backwards. This helps prevent the threaded pin from breaking. A bit of cutting oil
makes the whole thing literally run in oil. The threading can also be done with an
electric drill, as
a special tapping bit must then be used, which cuts the thread in one operation.
This type of threading is not suitable for larger diameters.

Cutting external thread I

You can cut an external thread on objects with a circular cross-section, such as a ge
wind rod, an axle or a pipe.
This is done with the help of a threaded tray and a turning iron (handle to turn with).
Thread trays cut the thread on the outside of the workpiece with specially ground teeth.
The thread is cut to full depth in one operation. A given threaded tray can only be used
for one rod diameter. Thread trays can also be used to repair damaged threads.

Cutting of external thread II


When threading, the thread tray is turned in the direction of cutting (to the right of usual
ge wind). Be careful not to use too much force. It is very important to remove metal
shavings and burrs along the way: for each revolution in the cutting direction, the thread
tray is turned a quarter of a revolution backwards. Regularly check that the thread tray is
held perpendicular to the workpiece. Use cutting oil to both facilitate the work and
achieve a well-shaped thread.

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Use of blind rivets I

Blind rivets are used for joining thin items or sheet metal. A blind rivet is a short
aluminum metal rod with a head at one end. Start by drilling a channel through the two
pieces to be joined and insert a blind rivet into the hole. The head of the blind rivet must
protrude completely on the opposite side of the workpiece. The blind rivet is then
secured with special rivet pliers.
Blind rivets are available in different diameters. When choosing a blind rivet, you
must not only look at the diameter but also the length of the rivet's shaft.

Using blind rivets II


How to perform a rivet joint:
1. When the riveter is activated, the pin is pulled into the workpiece
2. The aluminum tube is pinched at the back of the workpiece
3. When the riveter is closed, the aluminum tube expands
4. The pin breaks off when the riveter is fully closed
Blind rivets are firmly attached and cannot be easily removed.
The big advantage of blind rivets is that you can create solid connections in places
where there is no access to the back of the item. It is not possible with screws and
nuts.

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