Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Presentation content
• Intake system
• Exhaust system
• Engine tuning
• Engine mapping
• Engine installation
– Engine mounting
– Water, oil and fuel systems
• Engine utilisation
– Engine life and RPM
– Gear ratios, quick shift devices and shift lights
– Engine data loggers
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Intake system
• The rules require the use of a 20 mm intake air restrictor which needs to
be positioned downstream of the throttle and upstream of any turbo
charging device – but the size of this orifice is too big to be very effective
• The design of the system should include as large a diffuser as possible
downstream of the orifice
• The engine trumpets need to feed from a plenum chamber with a sensible
clearance all-around them, say 25 mm minimum to a wall and at least 3
times the port diameter above them – don’t worry about the large volume
of this system the transport delay will be very small
• The length of the inlet trumpets should be easily adjustable on the dyno,
probably with simple spacers
• The design of the system should place the actual air intake in an area
where it is away from direct heat and ideally pressurised a little
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Exhaust system
• The exhaust system should be very similar to the factory motorcycle
system in both pipe diameter and length
• If the engine has been modified to run faster then the lengths may be
slightly shorter
• It is important that all the primary pipes are the same length and this
should be calculated to +/- 5 mm and confirmed by measuring the volume
of the finished parts (by filling them with water or sand)
• Most manufacturers now use 4-2-1 systems with the cylinders paired so
that the closest firing ones are together
• Design the system with adjustment of at least the primary pipe length
• The silencer should be of the straight through type and have the same
bore size as the tail pipe
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Engine tuning
• Simple tuning methods such as polishing the inlet and exhaust ports
(without changing their shape) are effective at improving performance
• Make sure that any new inlet or exhaust system parts mate perfectly with
the existing engine leaving no steps or changes in angle at the interface
• Check any gaskets are a perfect fit and make your own if necessary
• Make sure all the internal parts are clean and free from carbon deposits –
especially if the engine is used
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Forced induction
• There is additional performance to be had using forced induction in the
form of either turbo charging or super charging
• All forms of supercharging generate a lot of heat and an intercooler will
probably be necessary
• Turbo engines work particularly well with E85 fuel
• The overall installation weight penalty may be quite large
• The tight and twisty nature of the track puts a premium on driveability and
although it is possible to get this with turbo charged engines it is quite
difficult
• Turbo charged cars are very difficult to get off the start line
• Most teams are not using all the performance that is available anyway
• Fuel consumption of turbo cars can be very poor
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Engine mapping
• Most teams are using a relatively simple ECU but there are still plenty of
settings to play with
• Make sure all the basics are correct before doing anything
– Make sure all the sensors are connected and working properly - calibrate
them all
– Make sure the basic engine rules are set correctly in software such as:
• Inlet pressure correction
• Inlet temperature correction
• Rev limiters, shift lights, etc.
• When running on the dyno check the operation of as many functions as
possible to leave the least amount to do in the car
• If you have a spare standard engine it is worth getting the map close using
this before swapping to your race engine and finishing off the map
• Always run the same fuel on the dyno as you will use on race day
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Engine installation
Engine mountings
• It is fine to use the engine as a structural member to stiffen the chassis and
you are unlikely to encounter any problems providing that:
• The chassis mounting points properly line up with the engine mounting holes and
there are no residual stresses (maybe caused by weld distortion in the chassis)
• The mounting brackets are strong and stiff and well connected to the engine
• If you want to transmit chassis loads across the head gasket face that you add at
least 4 dowels – one at each corner – between the head and block
• Remember that the engine mounting loads are very big – just think about
how much torque it takes to spin the rear wheels then calculate the chain
tension to generate that torque at the radius of the rear sprocket
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Engine installation
Engine installation
Water system
• If the engine you are using is water cooled remember the following:
– Water weighs 1Kg / litre so try to minimise the system water volume
– The ducting of the air to and from the radiator is very important to its
performance, so a radiator in a silly place will have to be much larger
– Water expands as it heats up so allow sufficient room in the header tank
– You need to be able to fill the system with water so provide air bleed points
at any local high spots
– Setting the system pressure above atmospheric raises the boiling point of the
coolant and allows hotter water temperatures which mean smaller radiators
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Engine installation
Oil system
• The oil system of a motorcycle engine is not designed for lateral G so a
baffle is required inside the sump
• Running a dry sump system is possible but probably unnecessary
• In case of oil pressure problems there are accumulators available that are
relatively inexpensive and work well
• Minimise the quantity of oil in the system for weight reasons
• Fit the oil cooler in a sensible place with ducting for the air to and from it
• Be careful to use an oil that is compatible with wet clutches if your engine
has one
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Engine utilisation
Engine life
• The standard motorcycle engines are designed for a long life and so it is
possible to run them harder in a competition car and still get a satisfactory
life
– It is difficult to be sure exactly how much harder you can run the engine, but
an extra 500 RPM should certainly be OK
– You don’t have to use any extra revs all the time, only during the events
where it really counts
– For test days and driver training you might choose to limit RPM in order to
increase the engine life and reduce the cost
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Engine utilisation
Engine temperatures
• The engine should be warm to give its best performance and to reduce
engine wear
• Aim for a water temperature of 85 degrees C for maximum power or
trade off power for radiator size (and weight) by running hotter
• Aim for 95 degrees C oil inlet temperature and allow up to 120 degrees C
• It should be necessary to blank parts of the radiators to keep the car up at
temperature during cold weather testing
• Experiment with a warming up regime that achieves these minimum
temperatures as it will be quite hard to do
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Engine utilisation
Fuel system
• For engines running fuel injection the fuel pressure should be controlled at
a constant pressure unless a turbo is fitted when the fuel pressure
regulator should be referenced to intake system pressure
• For sequenced injection larger flow injectors than standard may be better
– the same effect can be created by running higher than standard pressure
• Make sure that you can pick up all the fuel in the tank and verify that you
can complete the race distance on the volume of fuel allowed
• The rules don’t permit cooling the fuel, but every precaution should be
taken against warming it up unduly
– Store it in a cool place
– Protect the fuel tank from engine heat
– Fit the correct size fuel pump
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Engine utilisation
Gear ratios
• For race cars it is usual to gear the car to reach just short of maximum
revs in top gear at the end of the longest straight which:
– Gives maximum in gear acceleration
– Keeps the engine revs at the highest value all the time – so the engine is
making the most power
– Necessitates a large number of gearshifts
• This method of setting the gear ratios is the fastest but it does make the
car harder to drive and you need to consider:
– A quick shift mechanism at least for up changes
– Starting technique for the acceleration test
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100
versus RPM 96
94
90
% of maximum power
feels the engine power drop off 84
82
76
ratios 72
66
64
62
60
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
94
faster 90
88
% of maximum power
the gear split RPM and keeps the 84
80
76
74
72
66
64
62
60
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
Engine utilisation
Dashboards
• Assuming that you run a data logger, then for the engine the only
functions you need on the dashboard are:
– RPM (optional if many sequential shift lights are used)
– Shift lights
– Low oil pressure warning light
– Over temperature warning light
– Switches for on/off, starter, launch, traction, etc.
• The track is tight and twisty, there is a lot for the driver to do and with
the best will in the world he/she is unlikely to notice gauges
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Engine utilisation
Data logging
• Many budget ECUs feature data logging systems which can provide very
useful information to guide development of the car
• Stand alone systems can be very comprehensive and don’t count in the
cost exercise but are probably heavier
• Get in the habit of recording key engine parameters and checking the data
after each run for signs of problems. Particularly check:
– Engine oil pressure for drop outs due to cornering forces or just oil level!
– Water and oil temperatures for trends such as getting hotter and hotter every
time the car goes out (inadequate cooling or partially blocked duct)
– Battery voltage to ensure the alternator is charging the battery
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Concluding advice