Coaching of musket

vF KROADER
January 10, 2020

1 Some General Comments

These are just some general comments made before watching the video. First of all, I really don’t
like your settings/hardware combo. Your sensitivity is very high, and it’s extremely hard to have
good aim on this. You can of course be good at FN on this kind of sens, as there’s a lot more to
the game than aim, and it can be very good for editing and builds (Khanada is a good example of
a good very high sens player, although he’s still lower than you). I would however recommend you
lower your sensitivity to at least 0.79, as you will gain a lot of precision without losing much speed
(you experience diminishing returns on speed in this range), although I’d personally recommend
you go somewhere around 0.051-0.058.
To add onto this, you have a very light mouse, which can be good to gain speed on lower
sensitivies but on a higher sensitivies you really want a mouse that can give you more control. If
you like small mice, you could try g203/gpro wired which are both very good for control.
I’m guessing you’re also playing 4:3 stretched, since your kovaaks is in 4:3 despite you having
a 16:9 monitor. Stretched is bad for aim because your x and y axis will feel different. 4:3 is also
bad for FN because it lowers your fov currently, so there’s really no reason to use it.

Kovaak Review
• Thin Aiming Long Invincible: Your aim is at times very stuttery, and at times quite
smooth. It looks like you are pressing down too hard on your mousepad, which has the effect
of increasing friction a lot on cloth - on a smoothness scenario, it’s important to not exert
much downwards pressure on the mouse so that it can smoothly glide on the pad. Your aim is
also much smoother when aiming to the right than to the left, which is fairly odd (it’s usually
the inverse) and makes me wonder about your arm position (feel free to send me a picture
so I can take a look). Your corrections on direction changes are often too fast, which causes
two problems: You end up missing the correction (undercorrecting or overcorrecting), and
correcting fast makes it harder to aim afterwards. You should slow down your corrections
to a level where you can be more consistent, and then improve their speed from there. At
44 seconds, it’s very obvious when you reset your mouse as you’re very slow to do so, you’ll
really need to try and improve on your resetting speed as this can lead you to lose a lot of
dps in real game. Furthermore, on your sensitivity, you shouldn’t need to reset mouse at
all here as it’s unlikely you ran out of mousepad. It’s very important to learn to aim on all
positions on your pad, and so in Kovaaks you should really focus on only lifting your mouse
when absolutely necessary. Overall, you really just lack skill for this scenario, you’re really
not precise enough to track the targets and your corrections are very inaccurate, but we can
work on this.

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• Close Fast Strafes Easy: It looks like you really can’t control your mouse at all, your
sensitivity being too high for you is really obvious here, you’re constantly overcorrecting and
only aiming on large angles, with no small adjustments. Beyond that, you’re overaiming
massively on this scenario. When playing fast strafes, you should in fact be purposefully
underaiming. Suppose that a bot is fast strafing in one spot, ie, it is going between two
points A and B repeatedly. The most extreme form of underaiming would be to place your
crosshair right inbetween A and B, and not moving it at all - you would thus hit the bot only
when it crosses over your crosshair (if the distance between A and B is very short, this could
result in 100% accuracy). This is also the easiest form of underaiming, since you don’t have
to do anything, except place your crosshair between two points. Below this extreme, the idea
is that you move your crosshair left and right as the bot does, but you don’t move it as far
left or as far right as it moves (= your crosshair moves slower than the apparent velocity
of the bot), so that when it changes direction, you hit it for free, and have longer to react.
As your skill improves, you should underaim less and less, as doing so potentially increases
accuracy, but is harder. Your correction speed is also a bit slow at times, and you often end
up stuck behind the target as a result, or it has already changed direction by the time you
reached it. Your reading sometimes fails you, and you seem completely lost as where to aim
for a second or two, but it’s normal to have poor fast strafes reading coming from FN, as the
game has very slow short strafes, and Fortnite players all use them badly. This is not to say
that working on your fast strafes skill is useless for Fortnite, as it’s the best way to learn to
deal with changes in direction and improve your correction skill.
• Close Long Strafes Invincible: Your corrections here don’t seem to be lacking in speed
too much, but they’re very inaccurate, which leads you to struggle to aim a lot afterwards as
you’re forced to make a second correction to correct for your first one - you need to improve
your corrections a lot. You also end up stuck behind the target often, usually because you
undercorrected and are then unable to speed up to catch up to it. On your sensitivity, this
really shouldn’t be a problem, so you really need to think of being reactive and speeding up
the moment you’re behind the target. I can also see you lift your mouse a couple of times
here. You’re too slow to do so, and I feel as if you shouldn’t need to on your sensitivity.

• Fortnite Gliders 360: You’re using the wrong gun on this scenario (I should have specified
it in the infos doc) as you’re supposed to swap to AR but it’s fine to judge your aim anyway
as you try to track. Your aim is extremely shaky, you really struggle to keep your mouse
stable while clicking which isn’t surprising with such a light mouse and high sensitivity. In
Fortnite, this would only really affect your pistol aim (and infantry if it ever got added back
in), so you don’t need to worry about it too much. Your problems of being stuck behind
targets is very present here, although I feel as if it’s just due to a lack of precision in this
case. Although you’re using a click timing gun, and it’s fine to track with it, you make no
attempt to time your shooting at all, instead just shooting at the max rate of fire - you’ll hit
a lot more if you really try and time each shot, shooting when you think you’re on target.

• Bounce 180 Tracking Small: The same problem as on previous scenarios is very apparent
here too, you’re very inaccurate, so you just track the general position of the ball. Beyond
that, you have a lot of trouble with balls that move in depth as you clearly struggle to predict
their trajectory. You also lack the vertical stability needed for this scenario, often ending up
too far above or below even if you’re aiming correctly on the horizontal plane. You don’t
anticipate the bounces at all, you always seem surprised when the ball bounces and have to
react to it, losing dps . Your acquisition of the bots is also quite bad, you often come at
the bots from behind. As they have a completely predictable trajectory, you should be able

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 to place your crosshair in front of them, and then track them as they pass - as your skill
increases, you can put your crosshair less far in front of the ball, and as you do it perfectly
you don’t actually wait for the ball at all - you are able to do this often already, you just
need to be cautious not to come at bots from behind).
• LG Pin Practice 360: Your aim seems very shaky on this scenario - I think it’s in part due
to failing to predict the bot’s movement (you’re not a quake player, so this is fine, since this
knockback is quake specific), but you also seem to struggle with the verticality over larger
angles a lot. Whenever the bot enters the corner, you fail to anticipate that its trajectory
will be halted and you continue aiming into a position where it’s physically impossible for the
bot to get to. It’s very important to take the geometry of the map into account when aiming,
both in real game in Kovaak’s, since it allows you to predict enemy movement much better.
You often overaim a lot here too, here in a different sense than on fast strafes scenarios. You
should be aiming to track the general motion of the bot, rather than trying to make every
bullet hit - when you’re offtarget, don’t try and make a hard correction straight to the bot, but
gradually correct into it as shown in the following image: https://i.imgur.com/z03EIiY.png
• Tile Frenzy 180 Strafing Mixed Tracking: You don’t struggle with reading the speed
of the bot you’re shooting too much which is good, although it’s still apparent sometimes,
especially when cubes grouped together - it’s very important in target switch situations in
real game to be looking at your next target and tracking its movement (mentally of course)
. You do however aim very lazily on the slow cubes, just putting your crosshair in their path
and not moving it at all. While it works, it’s bad practice to do so, since you really want to
practice making a fast flick, perfectly matching the speed, and repeat - flick to track skills are
very important. Besides that, an overall lack of skill and precision is apparent here, you’re
not smooth and your corrections are inaccurate.
• Bounce 180: Your aiming form here is very bad. You’re not predicting the trajectory of the
balls enough, you should be able to just place your crosshair right in front of them and click
as they pass it - as your skill improves, you can naturally place it less far in front. You’re
instead just playing as if it was a tracking scenario, spamming at the balls, usually behind
them as with the tracking version. Really take your time with your first shot, and if you
miss, you should reaim at the ball as if it was a new ball you were approaching, rather than
spamming to hit it immediately.
• 1wall5targets_pasu: Exact same problem as with bounce 180, you’re not lining up your
shot at all, just spam clicking at the balls. On this kind of click timing, it’s good to try and
pay attention to when the balls change direction, because you know it’s unlikely to change
direction for a while after a change (the same applies to real game, and in most games the
acceleration time means that even if they do change direction immediately, you’ll still hit
them). Thus, if you see a ball change direction, you can go and shoot it right away by placing
your crosshair in its path, and clicking when it passes. In the case that you don’t see any ball
that has just changed direction, you can track the ball and shoot it the moment it changes
direction.

2 Kovaak Routine
You indicated that you want a 20-30 minute routine. You do however have a lot to work on, and
30 minutes is far too short to be able to work on much (a 30 minute routine also isn’t really worth
the money you’ve paid me), so I’ll make you a hour routine with a 20 minute supplement you could

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follow if you want to do a bit extra. In the case that you want to stick to the 30 minute length,
I’ve put an asterisk next to certain scenarios, and you should only play these ones.
• FOV changes: I generally use four different fovs in Fortnite routines, to be entered using
Kovaak’s Overwatch fov setting. These are as follows, and may not all be in your routine (I
may use other fovs for specific scenarios, but this should allow you to understand the idea
behind my choices):
– 103 fov: Many Fortnite players make the mistake of thinking that because Fortnite is
80 fov, they should play Kovaak’s in 80 fov. Unfortantely, translating fov from a Third
Person Shooter to an FPS is not so simple, as many will realize that their sensitivity
feels much higher on 80 fov in Kovaak’s than it does on 80 fov in Fortnite. This is
because the 80 fov in TPS means that this is the fov in which you can see to an infinite
distance. However, since your camera is behind your character, your effective fov is
higher (just think, you can even behind you, up to a short distance). The better way
to translate fov from Fortnite to Kovaak’s is simply by what feels similar, and 103 is a
number that seems to be so. This is thus the number I have chosen for training hipfire.
– 95 fov: For ADS scenarios, to represent the slight zoom in from ADSing.
– 80 fov: I use this fov for smoothness scenarios. Think of lowering fov as like putting
a magnifying glass on your aim: it allows you to see your deviations from the perfect
mouse movement better.
– 120/130 fov: I use this fov for speed scenarios. Being able to see further targets means
you can practice aiming on larger angles more effectively.

Primary Routine
To play a scenario in timescale, open it in free play, press escape, look to the right and change the
"time scale" setting.
• *Close Long Strafes (Close Long Strafes Invincible, Arm Turning Training) - 103
fov - Hipfire Sensitivity - 10 minutes: Really focus on flicking back to the bot fast once
it changes direction, and then moving your arm smoothly once you are on target. Really try
to keep it moving at the same speed, without getting stuck, and resetting your mouse only
at the very edge of your mousepad. You should be aiming with almost only your arm, try
using wrist only to make small corrections if needed. Start with Close Long Strafes, move
up to Invincible version if you want a bit more of a challenge, and move up to Arm Turning
Training from 60% on the invincible scenario onwards - this will most likely take you quite
a while to get to, but it’s a good goal to aim for.
• Tile Frenzy 180 Strafing Tracking 200 percent (300 percent, 400 percent) - 103
fov - Hipfire Sensitivity - 10 minutes: Hold left mouse button down the whole time.
Try to flick from one target to another in a straight line. If the cubes are close to one
another, it should be an “instant flick”, else focus on smoothly swapping to them for longer
distances. Once on target, try and match its speed perfectly - the goal here is really to work
on your problem of being stuck behind the enemy targets, so really focus on aiming at the
center/forward part of the bot, don’t let yourself ball behind.
• Close Fast Strafes Easy Invincible (Close Fast Strafes Invincible) - 103 fov -
Hipfire Sensitivity - 10 minutes: Play this one in freeplay, starting on timescale 0.6.
Increase the timescale by 0.05 in the next session if you hit more than 60% over 10 minutes.

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 Try to not predict the strafes too much, flicking back to the target as fast as possible when
it changes direction. The goal here is to work on your corrections following a change in
direction, so really focus on correcting accurately, and then try to build up your speed. You
can think of playing the non easy version once you have 60+% on this at full speed, although
this one isn’t necessarily better practice for you since it’s more about fast strafes reading skill
that isn’t so useful in Fortnite, and less about correction skill, but it’s there if you get bored
of the easy version.
• *Thin Aming Long Invincible Easy (Thin Aiming Long Invincible Medium, Thin
Aiming Long Invincible) - 95 fov - ADS Sensitivity - 10 minutes: This is a somewhat
easier version of TALI, which is better suited for you. Really try and make sure not to fall
behind the target. Focus on correcting accurately, so that you only make one mouse motion
to get back onto target after it changes direction - this means you need to know how fast
you will correct, and predict where to correct to so that you’re on the target at the end of
your correction. As I said, focus on accuracy of your corrections, and build up the speed of
them from there. No real direction on when to go to the next difficulty, just do so when you
feel like you’re not missing much on your current difficulty - there’s not too much harm in
increasing difficulty early anyway here, you’ll still improve your smoothness anyway, so don’t
be afraid to do so (increasing difficulty late can slow you improvement a lot once you reach
a certain level).
• Bounce 180 Nevermiss Easy (Bounce 180 Nevermiss) 103 fov - Hipfire Sensitivity
- 5 minutes: In this scenario, if you miss once, the scenario ends. Really take your time
with each shot, predicting the trajectory of the balls, placing your cursor in front of them
and clicking once they pass. As you improve, you can speed this up. The scenario might be
frustrating, but it will really teach you to be careful and line up your shots. You can move
up to the non easy version eventually, but it’s much harder, and you should only consider
doing so after at least a month on this routine.
• *Bounce 180 Large (Bounce 180)- 103 fov - Hipfire Sensitivity - 5 minutes: Now
play this scenario normally. Go faster than you would in the nervermiss scenario, aiming
for 70-80% accuracy, but still take time with each shot. You can move up to the non easy
version eventually, but it’s much harder, and you should only consider doing so after at least
a month on this routine.
• 1wall5targets_pasu Nevermiss Easy (1wall5targets_pasu Nevermiss) - 103 fov -
Hipfire Sensitivity - 5 minutes: Same as the bounce 180 variant, if you miss once then
the scenario ends. This one is likely quite hard for you, but it should still be good training.
Unlike with bounce 180 nevermiss, don’t try and place your crosshair in front of the balls and
click once they pass. Try to track them, and then click once you’re sure that you’re on them
(generally after a direction change). You can move up to the non easy version eventually,
but it’s much harder, and you should only consider doing so after at least a month on this
routine.
• *1wall5targets_pasu easy (1wall5targets pasu) - 103 fov - Hipfire Sensitivity -
5 minutes: Now play this scenario normally. Go faster than you would in the nervermiss
scenario, aiming for 70-80% accuracy, but still take time with each shot. You can move up
to the non easy version eventually, but it’s much harder, and you should only consider doing
so after at least a month on this routine.

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Shotgun Supplement
Play this routine after your main routine if you want to work on your shotgun a bit more.
• Close Fast Strafes Easy Shotgun (Close Fast Strafes Shotgun) - 103 fov - Hipfire
Sensitivity - 10 minutes: Don’t flick on this scenario. Instead, track the bot, and try
to shoot whem you’re fairly certain of hitting (ie: right after it changes direction), but be
careful not too wait too long, or you’ll lose a lot of dps. The non easy version is better than
the tracking equivalent, but much harder, and you shouldn’t think of playing it for a while.
• Pattargetshotgun - 120 fov - Hipfire Sensitivity - 10 minutes: Really try and work
on your speed in this scenario - for targets close to your crosshair, try and flick straight to
the head. For those further away, try and flick fast to their general vicinity, and then make
a quick correction onto their head.