PROCESS CONTROL

IN SPINNING
 Weak Spot Analysis by
Tensojet
 Speed of Testing 400 m/min
 Percentile values, Scatter
Diagram and Stroke
Diagram

SITRA 1
Tenso-jet Test Report of a 60s Combed Warp Yarn
SCATTER DIAGRAM
Breaking Force [ gf ] Test total : 10/10000 STROKE DIAGRAMS

SITRA 2
 Tenso-jet Test Report of a 60s Combed Warp Yarn
B-Force [gf] Elongation [%] Tenacity [Rkm] B-work[gf.cm]

Overall results : (total)

10 Tests / 10000 Single Tests

Mean Values 201.8 3.65 20.51 243.0
CV% 9.56 11.46 9.56 17.73
s+/- 19.3 0.42 1.96 43.1
Q95% +/- 0.5 0.01 0.05 1.2
Max values 282.0 4.93 28.65 401.7
Min values 115.7 2.07 11.76 85.7
P 0.01 : (1) 115.7 2.07 11.76 85.7
P 0.05 : (5) 121.8 2.13 12.38 99.5
P 0.1 : (10) 134.1 2.23 13.62 109.5
P 0.5 : (50) 150.2 2.47 15.26 131.7
P 1.0 : (100) 157.1 2.61 15.96 142.8

Weak points (118gf, 2.5%) F = 2 E = 59 F + E = 2

Overall results : (between)

CV% 1.92 5.15 1.92 5.93
s +/- 3.9 0.19 0.39 14.4 SITRA 3
 Percentile Values of Yarn Elongation and
Warp Breaks During Weaving

Count : 60s C

Percentile Values of
Yarn Elongation Warp Breaks/
Sample
Code (%) 10,000 Ends/Lakh
metre of Pick
P [0.1] P [0.5] P [1.0] Insertion

2.6
A 2.2 (10) 2.5 (50) 7.63
(100)

2.9
B 2.5 (10) 2.7 (50) 2.46
(100)

--- The values given in the parenthesis indicates the number of

readings for the corresponding elongation value.
SITRA 4
 Percentile Values of Yarn Elongation and
Weft Breaks During Weaving

Count : 60s C
Percentile Values of
Weft Breaks/
Sample Yarn Elongation
Lakh m of
Code (%)
Weft Insertion

P [0.1] P [0.5] P [1.0]

C 2.2 (10) 2.5 (50) 2.7 (100) 5.48

D 2.7 (10) 3.0 (50) 3.2 (100) 2.98

--- The values given in the parenthesis indicates the number

of readings for the corresponding elongation value.
SITRA 5
 1

CV of Fibre Elongation (%)

Elongation of Fibre
Elongation of Yarn 0.8

0.6
10
20
0.4 30

0.2
. 5 10 15 20 25 30

Yarn Irregularity CV%

Interrelationship Between Fibre & Yarn

Elongation, CV of Fibre Elongation &
Yarn Irregularity
SITRA 6
Ey = 0.86Ef (1 + 0.014
TM2)
1–K
N

K = Regression
Constant SITRA 7
K = 0.8145 + 0.0221 W
(Carded Counts)

K = 1.452 + 0.0088 W
(Combed Counts)

W = Toughness Index of Cotton

SITRA 8
 Factors Influencing Yarn
Elongation

Yarn Elongation
Fibre Parameters
Increases as

Fibre Length Increases

Fibre Elongation Increases

Fibre Maturity Increases

SITRA 9
 Factors Influencing Yarn Elongation

Yarn Elongation Increases

Yarn Parameters
as

Yarn Strength Increases

Yarn Linear Density Increases but then it falls

Yarn Evenness Increases

Short thin places Decreases

SITRA 10
 Factors Influencing Yarn Elongation

Yarn Elongation
Process Parameters
Increases as

Traveller weight Decreases

Spindle speed Decreases

Ring rail speed Decreases

Yarn T.M. Increases

Spinning triangle Decreases

(as in compact spinning)

SITRA 11
Fibre Elongation & SFC (n) of Some Imported Cottons

Cotton F.E. SFC (n)

Type
- PIMA, CIS, 7.2 to ---
GIZA 86 6.9

- Sudan --- 15.0

- CIS --- 14.0
- Australian --- 17.0
- Giza 75 --- 12.0
- Giza 89 --- 16.0
SITRA 12
 Uster Statistics on Yarn Elongation
- An Analysis

SFC (n) SFC (n) Yarn Elongation

Mixing Combed Sliver (%)

25% 50% 75% 25% 50% 75% 25% 50% 75%

20.0 23.0 27.0 8.0 11.0 14.0 5.7 -- 5.0

(3.0) (4.0) (6.0)

60s 80s
Elongation Realisation (%) 19,000 20,000
(rpm) (rpm)
Around 60.0
SITRA 13
 S (n)
S (16,000)
2

1.5

0.5

0
. 14000 16000 18000 20000 22000 .
Spindle Speed (rpm)

Relative Spinning Tension as a Function of the

Spindle Speed
SITRA 14
 6
Yarn Count Ne 60, Nm 100
100% Cotton 1 ½”
Elongation (%) 5

2
20 30 40
Spinning Tension
(cN)

Yarn Elongation as a Function of the

Spinning Tension

SITRA 15
 Effect of TM on Yarn Elongation
Count TM Break. Count TM Break.
(Ne) Elong. (Ne) Elong.
(%) (%)
3.5 6.17 3.5 5.10
20s 3.9 6.27 60s 3.9 5.50
4.3 6.44 4.3 5.70
3.5 5.42 3.5 4.80
30s 3.9 6.13 80s 3.9 4.86
4.3 6.10 4.3 4.92
3.5 5.53 3.5 4.38
40s 3.9 5.69 100s 3.9 4.40
4.3 6.11 4.3 4.46
3.5 5.00
50s 3.9 5.31
4.3 5.28
SITRA 16
 Effect of Chemical Treatment on
Yarn Elongation (%)
Count : 40s C

Sample Treated
Code Un-
Treated I II III IV V VI VII
Parti-
Culars

Tenacity
11.35 7.00 7.83 12.25 13.86 16.46 16.63 16.30
(g/tex)

CV of
12,62 16.47 16.10 15.19 9.49 7.38 7.72 8.13
Tenacity

Elonga-
3.79 3.80 3.76 4.27 5.06 5.10 5.29 4.91
tion (%)

CV of
Elong- 9.74 12.53 12.20 13.22 9.10 12.31 8.56 16.95
ation

SITRA 17
Different Types of Chemical Treatments
Given to the Yarn
Untreated : 
Treated
1. Polymeric Softener (Type A) - (100 g/litre)

2. Polymeric Softener (Type B) - (100 g/litre)

3. Poly Acrylic Acid - (100 g/litre)

4. Poly Acrylic Acid - (200 g/litre)

5. Poly Vinyl Acetate - (200 g/litre)

6. Acrylamide – (200 g/litre)

7. Poly Vinyl Alcohol - (20 g/litre)

SITRA 18
 EFFECT OF YARN STRETCH DURING
WARPING ON ELONGATION AND
SUBSEQUENT BREAKS IN WEAVING SHED

Warp Breaks
Warp Stretch Elongation
Per Hour
(%) Loss (%)
(Loom Shed)
1.0 17.0 3.6
1.6 24.0 4.2
2.2 29.0 4.8
2.9 37.0 5.3

SITRA 19
CONTAMINATIONS
IN COTTON

CHEMICAL CONTAMINATION
Normally, in roller ginning
factories, the ginning rollers
are made up of chrome
composite leather clad. In
those rollers, the chrome
content exceeds certain level
say over 15,000 to 20,000
ppm. The same is carried
forward in the lint that is
ginned in the ginning
factories. SITRA 20
 70
60
60

50
% of Ginneries

40
28
30

20 12
10

0
Below 10,000 10,000 - 20,000 > 20,000

Total Chromium (ppm)

Extent of Chromium Contamination in Ginning Rollers

SITRA 21
CHROMIUM LEVEL IN GINNED LINT SAMPLES

(Total Chromium  mg / kg)

A B C
Ginnery CCLC – CCLC – CCLC –
10,000 15,000 20,000
Material mg/kg mg/kg mg/kg

Ginned 44.60 49.90 56.80

Lint

Permissible Level : Oeko-Tex Standards – 2 mg/kg.

SITRA 22
Oeko-tex standards are published
from the International Association
for Research and Testing in the
field of Textile Technology situated
at Zurich. According to them
chromium level higher than
2mg/kg in any textile product
would be harmful to people who
handle those products.
SITRA 23
 CHROMIUM LEVEL IN “IN-PROCESS
MATERIAL” AND IN YARN

(Total Chromium  mg/kg)

Material Material Material
Description From From From
Ginnery - A Ginnery - B Ginnery – C
B. R. Lap 1.35 1.64 1.95
Card Sliver 1.22 1.50 1.80
Roving 0.85 1.00 1.50
0.80 1.00 1.40
Yarn
(20s K) (40s K) (80s K)

Permissible Level : Oeko-Tex Standards – 2 mg/kg.

SITRA 24
CHROMIUM LEVEL IN SALEABLE WASTE
MATERIALS
(Total Chromium  mg/kg)

Ginnery
Material A B C

B.R.Droppings 6.20 7.40 9.60

Lickerin
22.00 24.00 25.50
Droppings

Flat Strips 10.80 12.10 14.40

SITRA 25
CHROMIUM BOUND DISEASES

Organ Symptoms
Skin Irritation, Ulcers
Skin &
Allergic Dermatitis
Perforation of Nasal
Nose
Septum
Irritation During Breathing
Lung &
Lung Cancer
SITRA 26
 AMOUNT OF CHROMIUM IN AIR SAMPLES
COLLECTED IN GINNERIES

(Total Chromium in mg/m3)

Sample
Suction Pressure
No. Ginnery Ginnery Ginnery
A B C
1000 ml/min. for 4 Hrs.
1. 0.0018 0.0024 0.0041
(240 L)
1000 ml/min. for 4 Hrs.
2. 0.0066 0.0084 0.0092
(240 L)
2000 ml/min. for 15 Min.
3. 0.0142 0.0218 0.0321
(30 L)
2000 ml/min. for 15 Min.
4. 0.0094 0.0190 0.0256
(30 L)

NIOSH LIMIT : 0.001 mg/m3

SITRA 27
NIOSH

 National Institute of Occupational

Safety and Health

 Situated in USA

 Pollution Control Boards Follow

these Standards

SITRA 28
 LEVEL OF CHROMIUM IN AIR SAMPLES
COLLECTED AT CARD WHILE PROCESSING
LINT COLLECTED FROM THREE GINNERIES

(Total Chromium in mg/m3)

Sample
Suction Pressure
No. Ginnery Ginnery Ginnery
A B C

1. 1000 ml/min. for 4 Hrs.

(240 L) 0.0046 0.0075 0.0097

2. 1000 ml/min. for 4 Hrs.

(240 L) 0.0072 0.0100 0.0153

NIOSH LIMIT : 0.001 mg/m3

SITRA 29
SITRA has developed
Chromium-free Leather
Clad for Roller Gins
SITRA had adopted
vegetable Tanning in
the Manufacturing
Process
SITRA 30
Chromium Level in Ginned Lint
Samples While using
Newly Developed Leather Clad

Sample No. 1 2 3

Total Chromium
0.01 0.02 0.007
in mg/kg

Oeko – Tex Standard 100 = 2.0 ppm

SITRA 31
 0.1
50 0.09
0.085

Power Consumption (Units/Kg.)

39.5 40.0 0.08
37% 37%
40
Ginning Output (Kg.)

0.06
30
0.04
20
0.02
10
0
0

Type of Roller

Performance of Conventional  Newly Developed

Chromium-free Leather Clad Ginning Rollers
SITRA 32
 PHYSICAL
CONTAMINATIONS
 Extent of Contamination Removed by an Exporting Unit
in South India
DCH
32
Woven Avg.
Jute/ Human Colou Hdp / Colour Occurrence
State Hessian Hair r Film Cotton of 1, 2, 3 &
1 2 Yarn 4 (in Kg.) 4 / bale
3
Guj. 3034 1261 174 1140 81 27
Kar. 1361 570 309 252 10 71
(A)
Kar. 27731 9664 1213 9043 579 33
(B)
Kar. 10643 3769 869 1336 39 165
(C)
M.P. 50568 15895 8301 27132 3296 14
(A)
M.P. 15344 6338 3198 2539 76 93
(B)
SITRA 33
 Extent of Contamination Removed by an Exporting Unit
in South India
Jute/ Human Woven Hdp Colour Average
State Hessian Colour / Film Occurrence of
Hair Cotton 1, 2, 3 & 4 / bale
Yarn
Kg
LRA
Maha. (A) 14338 2327 822 2182 156 22
Maha. (B) 40242 4634 2272 7609 561 17
Maha. (C) 5616 737 325 914 44 32
M.P. 1405 171 125 273 20 12
NHH 44
Maha. (A) 4426 939 7196 1456 5
Maha. (B) 46081 9798 2249 16590 3150 5
MECH
1895 243 137 20013 55 9
MCU5
168985 19165 5766 9604 313 203
S6
26659 5074 5910 7652 987 7
91750 15336 2138 28772 12880 7
SITRA 34
Integrated Cotton Contract
Farming (ICCF) is being
advocated as one of the
effective means to reduce
contaminations in cotton. In
South India, two leading Textile
firms are popularizing the
concept of ICCF among the
farmers for the past 2 – 3
years.
SITRA 35
 Working Model of ICCF

Textile firm popularizing

Co-ordinator
ICCF

Farmer SHGs* Grower

Bank Financier

Textile Industry Consumer

* Self Help Groups

SITRA 36
 Benefits to Mills Through ICCF
Particulars Market Cotton ICCF Cotton

Trash 3 to 4% 2%
Content in
Cotton

Contaminat 10 – 18 gm per 0 – 1 gm per

ion in bale bale
Cotton

Yarn
Realisation 68% 72%
(Combed
Counts)
SITRA 37
SPUN YARN HAIRINESS

H by Uster

S3 by Zweigle

SITRA 38
Correlation Between S3 Value and Uster ‘H’
SITRA 39
 Fibre Parameters Influencing
Yarn Hairiness

Correlation Sign with

Fibre Parameters Respect to Yarn
Hairiness

Mean Fibre Length Negative

% Short Fibres Positive

Mic. Value Positive

SITRA 40
 Fibre Parameters Influencing
Yarn Hairiness

Correlation Sign with

Yarn Parameters Respect to Yarn
Hairiness

Mean Fibre Length Negative

% Short Fibres Positive

Mic. Value Positive

SITRA 41
Fibre Parameters Influencing
Yarn Hairiness

Correlation Sign with

Yarn Parameters Respect to Yarn
Hairiness

Linear Density Positive

Twist Level Negative

SITRA 42
 Effect of SFC on Yarn Hairiness

SFC H S3
Count Material SFC (n)
(W) Value Value

Card Sliver 42.9 17.1

60s CW 4.21 1995
Comber Sliver 16.6 6.1
Card Sliver 32.4 10.6
60s CW 3.75 1402
Comber Sliver 11.4 3.5

40s CW 18.7 6.9 4.87 ---

40s CW 13.9 5.2 4.15 ---

SITRA 43
Short Fibre Content and Yarn Hairiness
- An Analysis

Hairiness (H)

SFC (n) in Comber Count 25% 50% 75%

Sliver
(AFIS) 30s 4.50 5.10 5.30
25% 50% 75%
40s 4.10 4.40 4.80
8.0 11.0 14.0
60s 3.40 3.50 3.90
(3.0) (4.0) (6.0)
80s 3.00 3.20 3.60

100s 2.75 2.85 3.50

SITRA 44
 24 (23.0)

(21.2)
S3 Hairs/m
21
(19.5)

18

15
. 15500 17000 18500 .
Spindle Speed (rpm)
Spindle Speed and Yarn Hairiness
40s Count from 14,500 rpm to 17,500 rpm
There is + 15% in S3.
SITRA 45
 Hairiness in Ply Yarns

Hp = Hs + K. log N

Where,

Hp = Hairiness of Ply yarn

Hs = Hairiness of Single Yarn

K = Constant (App. 5.0)

N = No. of Ply
SITRA 46
 Ex.:
Single yarn : Combed Count Ne 100

H = 2.9

What will be ‘H’ for 2 ply & 3 ply

Yarns?

Ans.: ‘H’ for 2 Ply Yarn = 2.9 + 5.0 X 0.3

= 4.4

‘H’ for 3 Ply Yarn = 2.9 + 5.0 X 0.48

= 5.3
SITRA 47
 Zweigle Hairiness Value for Doubled Yarns

Count
(Ne)
60s C 2 / 60s C 80s C 2 / 80s C 100s C 2 / 100s C

S3
Value
1974 323 1550 231 2679 273

SITRA 48
Yarn Quality Improvement due to Doubling

Rkm 10 to 15 %

Um % 1.4 times

Imp. / km 85 to 90 %

SITRA 49
 Reduction in Classimat Faults Due to
Doubling

Type of Fault 2/60s 2/80s 2/100s

Disturbing Faults
(A4 + B4 + C3 + C4 + 70% 90% 95%
D3 + D4)
Drafting Faults
(C + D) 70% 75% 85%

Long Thin Faults

(H + I) 96% 95% 92%

SITRA 50
 Influence of Bobbin Holder Tension in RF
on Classimat Long Thin Faults

--- Bobbin Holder with Different Tension Levels

for Different Counts

T 6 --- Below 30s Ne

T 4 --- 30s to 60s Ne

T 2 --- 60s Ne & Finer

SITRA 51
 Count 30s C 40s C
(Ne)
Bobbin Newer STD Newer STD
Holder

Spindle 16,000 16,000 17,000 17,000

Speed

Classimat
Long Thin 17.55 56.6 69.5 87
Fault /
Lakh m

SITRA 52
Classimat Faults measured in On-line
& Off-line Systems

Type Type of Count (Ne)

of System 60s CW 80s CW
Fault
On-line 500 450
A1 Off-line 350 300
On-line 150 300
H1 Off-line 30 35
SITRA 53
Fibre Length Parameters of Card Slivers

AFIS HVI
Mill Mixing
No. 2.5 % 5% 2.5 % 50 %
Length Length S.L. S.L.
(mm) (mm) (mm) (mm)
1 20s K 32.6 30.2 25.2 10.7

2 30s K 39.1 35.8 29.1 11.9

3 60s K 40.1 36.8 33.1 15.6

4 80s C 47.6 43.1 37.8 16.4

5 90s C 48.2 43.5 37.6 16.7

SITRA 54
 DIFFERENT MEASURING MODES
IN HVT TEST SYSTEM

Mode ICC Mode HVI Mode

Upper Half Mean

2.5% Span Length
Length (UHML)

Fibre Uniformity Ratio Uniformity Index

Parameters (UR) (UI)
Evaluated
Bundle Strength, Bundle Strength,
Elongation Elongation

Fineness Fineness

SITRA 55
 INTER-RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN
DIFFERENT MEASURES OF FIBRE LENGTH

UHML  2.5% SL

ML = 1.75 X 50 % SL

BUNDLE STRENGTH = 1.25 X BUNDLE

(HVI MODE) STRENGTH (ICC MODE)

MICRONAIRE  MICRONAIRE
(HVI MODE) (ICC MODE)
SITRA 56
 INCREASE IN HAIRINESS
DURING WINDING & DOUBLING

COUNT : 30s P/V; 65/35

SPINDLE SPEED : 19,000

(rpm)

TFO SPEED : 9500

(rpm)

AUTOCONER : 1000
m/min. SITRA 57
 HAIRINESS
FIBRES USED RF TFO SINGLE DOUBLE
TPI TPI YARN YARN
RF CONE —
POLYESTER
—1.4D X 44 mm 19.0 16.5 5.1 8.6 12.6
VISCOSE
4.1 7.1 11.8
1.5 D X 44 mm
POLYESTER
— 1.4D X 44 mm
19.4 16.5 4.4 8.0 11.1
VISCOSE
— 1.5 D X 44 mm

SITRA 58
 Case Study
 16/2 s 100% Poly Grey Yarn - 3.0 D x 51 mm
 R.F. Speed : 14,100 rpm

 TFO Yarn – Rewind on Perf. Cones for

Dyeing – Rewind Again for processing
On Looms
 TFO Speed : 7000 rpm

 Single Yarn TPI : 13.35, TFO Yarn TPI : 13.20

 High Dust Generation on Looms

 Accumulate on Looms, Time to Time Goes
Into the Cloth
 Cloth Rejection High (CLOTH SAMPLE
TO BE SHOWN)
SITRA 59
 Cotton Fibre Selection
Raw Material Standards (Denim)
Consumption
Parameter
Normal Restricted Restricted Restricted
(GradeI) (GradeII) (GradeIII)

Mic.Value 3.8  0.3  0.5  0.7

2.5 % 30.01.0  1.5  2.0

S.L.(mm)

U.R 48 & 47.0 to 46.5 to

above 47.9 46.9
Strength 22.5 & 21.5 to 21.0 to
(g/tex) above 22.4 21.4

SITRA60
Shade Variation
---- Fibre Properties Required to Produce Fabrics
with a E Value of 1.0

Fibre Properties
Combination Range in % IFC
Mic. Value
1 0.50 30.00
2 0.65 27.50
3 0.80 25.00
1/ E = 2.064 - 0.552 * Range in Mic. Value - 0.025 * IFC
SITRA 61
-- Controlling Yarn Streaks
with UV Meter

-- Fluorescence Value Plays a

Major part in the Dyeability
of the Fibre

SITRA 62
Fluorescence of Cotton Lay-down in Blow Room

SITRA 63
Accumulative Scatter Diagram

SITRA 64
Limits for Range in UV Values
Average
Tolerance
UV
25  5 (20 to 30)
35  7 (28 to 42)
45  10 (35 to 55)
 45  10

SITRA 65
 Fabric Barre
TEXTILE INSTITUTE DEFINES BARRE AS:

1. Unwanted Stripes in Woven Fabrics,

in the Direction of the Weft

2. A Fault in a Weft Knitted Fabric (Usually

Knitted on a Multi-Feeder Machine)
Appearing as Light or Dark Coursewise
Stripe(s) and Arising from Differences in
Lustre, Dye Affinity (or Unlevel Dyeing)
in the Yarn, Yarn Spacing or Loop Length,
Yarn Linear Density or Defective Plating.

SITRA 66
SITRA 67
YARN PARAMETERS INFLUENCING
FABRIC BARRE

 YARN HAIRINESS VARIATION

&

 YARN TWIST VARIATION

SITRA 68
DIFFERENCE IN
H OF YARN
E VALUE
USED
IN THE FABRIC

0.22 0.15
to to
1.14 0.58

SITRA 69
DIFFERENCE IN
TPI OF YARN
E VALUE
USED
IN THE FABRIC

2 0.25
3 0.58
5 0.66

SITRA 70